# glueing drywall



## tvo

if i am placeing drywall on wood or steel, i glue centre and screw around outside! I do not like spotting nails. i see there is also a foam, just foam the stud and do around outside with screws.works great!! O the glue is pl400 in the big tube!


----------



## tvo

if stud are real bad, thy say foam is better never tried the foam yet


----------



## joepro0000

Any commerical job you walk on and you don't screw the drywall off, consider it failed! In my region, glue is never used. Screws only!


----------



## joepro0000

BTW,

I love spotting screws, thats like by breather. I spot screws when I'm trying to rest from boxing and bazooka-ing.


----------



## rckslash2010

We were rocking some high end units a few years ago, and last srping I had the opportunity to stay in them. Seemed like every screw in the stairways popped. We just finished rocking an other one of them types of units and on the first one we glued the rock on the stairway. But by the time we got to the second one we were like screw it, we never get recognition for going above and beyond, we just get bitched at when we forget something. They want standard, they'll get standard. They can take all the green glue and aqua rock and shove it strait up there candy ass.:blink:


----------



## carpentaper

i live in a 27 year old building. they were nailing the edges and gluing the field. in a lot of places the glue has let go of the drywall so if you bang on the wall you can hear the loose field smacking against the stud. also the sheet does not get sucked up tight against the stud so your glue is doing f**k all. if i try to screw the sheets tight now the board just pops back out leaving the paper torn and core crushed due to the uneven surface of glue on stud. its the worst in the bathrooms. my preference is to set the board in place with a couple of nails in the edge and then screw everything. if you want to add glue on top of that, awesome, but personally i don't care and i think its overkill. i think you can figure out my opinion on glueing and not screwing the field. its poopoo


----------



## evolve991

if you dont screw the field the rock does not always touch the glue. i would not hang drywall without gluing it- period. i will also refuse to let entire fields go unscrewed. i MAY skip every other stud if the builder wants that AND has built something more structurally sound than the usual clap trap houses framed these days.


----------



## Custom Drywall Svc.

carpentaper said:


> i live in a 27 year old building. they were nailing the edges and gluing the field. in a lot of places the glue has let go of the drywall so if you bang on the wall you can hear the loose field smacking against the stud. also the sheet does not get sucked up tight against the stud so your glue is doing f**k all. if i try to screw the sheets tight now the board just pops back out leaving the paper torn and core crushed due to the uneven surface of glue on stud. its the worst in the bathrooms. my preference is to set the board in place with a couple of nails in the edge and then screw everything. if you want to add glue on top of that, awesome, but personally i don't care and i think its overkill. i think you can figure out my opinion on glueing and not screwing the field. its poopoo


yea, exactly i agree.

no offense to anyone, but gluing doesnt make any sense to me, especially when my company has RARELY had problems with things such as nail pops in the first place. gluing is definitely overkill in my opinion.

again, ive said this before i think on this very forum, but i would NOT feel comfortable for my sheetrock to be glued DIRECTLY to (most likely future settling) lumber. again, no offense but there is no logic in this.

my own experiences, wallboard attached THAT securely to lumber via glue, is NEVER something to brag about.

one of the reasons why i am a strong proponent of using r.c. channels on ceilings due to poor framing / bad lumber. in the best case scenario, i can guarantee my work all day if builders would use this on all their ceilings.

im a strong believer that the best scenario for drywall is to have 'breathing room' and flex room btwn the wallboard and lumber, hence r.c. channel (resilient channel).

the worst thing for a drywall contractor is bad lumber and moving (settling) studs.......

and you want to GLUE directly to this material?

hah, no way.


----------



## alltex

I once followed a hanger who glued ,then put one screw in the field and one on the perimiter of each stud . he was the best hanger you ever saw and ther we never any problems.I give glue a thumbs up.


----------



## mudslingercor

Screw the parimiter and one in the center every 4'or 6', to bring the board to the glue.Misconception.. If you hit the board you can hear the loose board. Not true. When the glue dries it will have a small gap between the stud and the wall, so if you smack it that will be what you hear. Now this is a good thing because glue works like a shim if the stud is out and you glue it wall stay flat and glue dries at the thickness of how far the stud is crowned. If you screw that same piece then the drywall follows the wall, putting pressure on the screws and eventually popping. So more glue less screw pops and flatter walls. Furthermore if you think that board isn't stuck to the studs, You just try to pull that sucker off. And if it does come off your using crappy or the wrong glue


----------



## alltex

i agree with mud sliger .just did it on an over lay job (5/8 over an old worbled acustic scrape off done by a carpenter) and it helped level a bad looking lid on a 30 year old house.


----------



## evolve991

5/8 does give you a much better bridge over bowed/twisted studs and joists but around here everyone uses 1/2 which billows like a circus tent if not secured properly. Yes it causes BAD FRAMING to show up like 2 foot swells on a river but thats not the hangers problem. An old finisher once told me "You can't make chicken soup out of chicken sh*t" I do my absolute best to do an above average job but drywall can only cover so much garbage. Good framing is a different story,there we CAN get away with skipping field screws because the glue actually catches the rock. But very few builders/framers in this area give a crap about Plumb/True/Level/Flush anymore. Gnarled studs used on plates and openings,crowns down...and up....and down....headers half an inch thicker than jackstuds.....makes a good hanging crew FEEL like butchers. Glue is not overkill when most houses are sheathed with plywood corners and foam everywhere else....what the h*ll else will hold them together? The jokes called Hurricane Straps? Not hardly


----------



## Stinger

I am on the same track with evolve on this. And, doubt the "logic" behind using glue is to secure it to framing that could move. I believe it's to secure board to the framing in the event the framing does move, and loosens the fasteners as a result. Also to bridge uneven framing for a flatter finished product. RC is a great but it too is going to move if the framing shifts or settles. After all, cement blocks crack too but they still gotta put mortar between them and re-enforcing inside them.


----------



## D's

How many screws are needed to keep a sheet of drywall on a wall really?
-2 screws will support the weight of the sheet
-screwing the perimeter will keep any taped joints from moving and cracking
-screwing the field will keep the sheet from rattling IF YOU BANG ON IT
-gluing the field with mastic NEEDS screws in the field so the beads get compressed and sheets sit flat
-if your gluing with foam adhesive don't even bother with the field because once the perimeter is screwed the bead is squished between the framing and sheet and the board sits perfectly flat - 2hours later it's on there for life.

Foam is faster, cheaper, flatter, and easier to finish
Mastic is out, foam is in, screwing the field?-forget about it!

PLUS!!!
-Use it to prefill large gaps before the taper shows up!
-Contribute to more energy efficient homes by sealing before hanging(heck might as well charge and make more money while your at it!) 











D'S


----------



## Ron Franck

Interesting topic, this gluing vs. screwing business. 

I may not be fully welcome here because I'm a DIY homeowner who is building his own hut and I know you guys wanna keep this forum for the pros.

But I'm not what I consider your average homeowner. I'm most concerned with quality and as this is going to be MY home when it's finished I want to oversee every aspect of the construction, if not doing it myself.

I find this whole business of drywall fascinating and it has been a very enjoyable experience for me. I've spent countless hours reading through all the various threads on this forum and I've learned a lot from you pros. I've also learned there are as many differing opinions as there are posters on the forum. It seems everyone has their own opinion. That's understandable because everyone has had different experiences. It's kinda like the story of the three blind men describing an elephant. Each touched a different part and had a different description.

Since I was the framer I was better able to chose the lumber that went into my home. The only exception to this was the roof trusses, and although my trusses came from one of the better suppliers, they still had their problems. As I built my walls I selected each and every stud, with special attention given to the kitchen walls. Every wall was crowned and every sheet of sheathing was glued around the perimeter before being nailed in place (to reduce air infiltration). Every rafter tie was set in a hand-cut relief along the top plate so the drywall might lay flat. I went around every window and door frame with a hand plane and knocked down all the high spots. The bottom line is, my wall are F-L-A-T. The guys helping me hang board said my house is one of the most square, flat and plumb homes they have ever hung board in. 

I know my home is the exception rather than the rule and perhaps because my rate of build is so "relaxed" that that is a good thing. It has given everything time to settle and dry out before I move on to the next phase. I don't foresee my framing moving much at all after it's covered. I hope the next owner appreciates every small detail I've incorporated. 

The interior of all my exterior walls are covered with plastic, both as a vapor barrier and as an extra layer to combat air infiltration. This precaution may be overkill and it disallowed the use of glue when hanging the board. As such, I had to ask the hangers to increase the number of screws in the field, one every 12 inches on the walls, one every 8 inches on the lids. Since I provided the material and because I'll be spotting the screws myself they were happy to oblige.

I've also gone back through the house after they finish for the day and recheck their work. It seems on occasion that they leave their "signature" on a board here and there. I have gone so far as to replace a board that was damaged because of a forgotten outlet. Not a problem as I know we are all human and prone to making mistakes. All I ask is that I be told so that I can correct a problem rather than cover it up. 

We let bids on the job with the understanding that whoever got the job could work at their own pace, meaning it didn't need to be done ASAP but could be done between other jobs to fill in on short days or slow periods. My guys love coming to work here. It's a relaxed pace with plenty of conversation, breaks for coffee and a cigarette. On occasion, the wife brings out fresh baked sweet rolls right out of the oven. When the guys are here during the lunch hour the wife makes a fresh cooked meal. They are a little surprised by all this and have commented that it's a "first" for them. I was raised on the farm and Mom always cooked a noon meal for the workers and we intend to continue the tradition. The guys also seem surprised by my level of involvement. Most builders or HO's just stand back and bitch. I figure my money doesn't buy me the right to be that extreme. If I give respect I expect respect in return and I figure they will happy and proud of doing a good job for me. If I see something that I think is not up to my standards then I explain my point and listen to theirs. I'm in this life to learn. I only wish I had paid as much attention when I was a wet-behind-the-ears punk in High School.

Well, thanks for letting me chime in with my thoughts. I really appreciate all your opinions and expertise. Oh, and for me, in my situation, I favor a bit of glue for insurance in a well screwed field. (no pun intended.) 
Ron


----------



## wnybassman

Ron Franck said:


> I've also gone back through the house after they finish for the day and recheck their work. It seems on occasion that they leave their "signature" on a board here and there. *I have gone so far as to replace a board that was damaged because of a forgotten outlet*. Not a problem as I know we are all human and prone to making mistakes. All I ask is that I be told so that I can correct a problem rather than cover it up.


I bet there ain't too many DC contractors out there that would be fond of that.


----------



## d-rock

we never use glue. we do use plenty of screws, i walk around and check the boards to make sure. on stand-ups,every 12" in field ,every 8" at the seams. On ceilings i do 4 in the field, on butts 6. wood framing /house w/railroaded boards gets 3 in field.
The screw gun does not stop all day, mechanics tack and apprentice screws off. No poppers.


----------



## Stormy_Ny

Ron Franck said:


> Interesting topic, this gluing vs. screwing business.
> 
> I may not be fully welcome here because I'm a DIY homeowner who is building his own hut and I know you guys wanna keep this forum for the pros.
> 
> But I'm not what I consider your average homeowner. I'm most concerned with quality and as this is going to be MY home when it's finished I want to oversee every aspect of the construction, if not doing it myself.
> 
> I find this whole business of drywall fascinating and it has been a very enjoyable experience for me. I've spent countless hours reading through all the various threads on this forum and I've learned a lot from you pros. I've also learned there are as many differing opinions as there are posters on the forum. It seems everyone has their own opinion. That's understandable because everyone has had different experiences. It's kinda like the story of the three blind men describing an elephant. Each touched a different part and had a different description.
> 
> Since I was the framer I was better able to chose the lumber that went into my home. The only exception to this was the roof trusses, and although my trusses came from one of the better suppliers, they still had their problems. As I built my walls I selected each and every stud, with special attention given to the kitchen walls. Every wall was crowned and every sheet of sheathing was glued around the perimeter before being nailed in place (to reduce air infiltration). Every rafter tie was set in a hand-cut relief along the top plate so the drywall might lay flat. I went around every window and door frame with a hand plane and knocked down all the high spots. The bottom line is, my wall are F-L-A-T. The guys helping me hang board said my house is one of the most square, flat and plumb homes they have ever hung board in.
> 
> I know my home is the exception rather than the rule and perhaps because my rate of build is so "relaxed" that that is a good thing. It has given everything time to settle and dry out before I move on to the next phase. I don't foresee my framing moving much at all after it's covered. I hope the next owner appreciates every small detail I've incorporated.
> 
> The interior of all my exterior walls are covered with plastic, both as a vapor barrier and as an extra layer to combat air infiltration. This precaution may be overkill and it disallowed the use of glue when hanging the board. As such, I had to ask the hangers to increase the number of screws in the field, one every 12 inches on the walls, one every 8 inches on the lids. Since I provided the material and because I'll be spotting the screws myself they were happy to oblige.
> 
> I've also gone back through the house after they finish for the day and recheck their work. It seems on occasion that they leave their "signature" on a board here and there. I have gone so far as to replace a board that was damaged because of a forgotten outlet. Not a problem as I know we are all human and prone to making mistakes. All I ask is that I be told so that I can correct a problem rather than cover it up.
> 
> We let bids on the job with the understanding that whoever got the job could work at their own pace, meaning it didn't need to be done ASAP but could be done between other jobs to fill in on short days or slow periods. My guys love coming to work here. It's a relaxed pace with plenty of conversation, breaks for coffee and a cigarette. On occasion, the wife brings out fresh baked sweet rolls right out of the oven. When the guys are here during the lunch hour the wife makes a fresh cooked meal. They are a little surprised by all this and have commented that it's a "first" for them. I was raised on the farm and Mom always cooked a noon meal for the workers and we intend to continue the tradition. The guys also seem surprised by my level of involvement. Most builders or HO's just stand back and bitch. I figure my money doesn't buy me the right to be that extreme. If I give respect I expect respect in return and I figure they will happy and proud of doing a good job for me. If I see something that I think is not up to my standards then I explain my point and listen to theirs. I'm in this life to learn. I only wish I had paid as much attention when I was a wet-behind-the-ears punk in High School.
> 
> Well, thanks for letting me chime in with my thoughts. I really appreciate all your opinions and expertise. Oh, and for me, in my situation, I favor a bit of glue for insurance in a well screwed field. (no pun intended.)
> Ron



Well I 'll tell you what Ron ...... When your ready for finish ....Drop me a line and get me a room..... A house built so fine should have the best finisher working on her ! :thumbup:

I do like coffee and smokes too.


----------



## d-rock

stormy_ny said:


> well i 'll tell you what ron ...... When your ready for finish ....drop me a line and get me a room..... A house built so fine should have the best finisher working on her ! :thumbup:
> 
> I do like coffee and smokes too.


lol lol lol lol lol lol brilliant !!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Ron Franck

wnybassman said:


> I bet there ain't too many DC contractors out there that would be fond of that.


One board they forgot that an electrical outlet was behind it. They tried to pound and screw it down until realizing what the problem was. When they routered the opening a section of board popped out to one side of the outlet that was nearly the size of the outlet itself, not to mention all the extra screws used in and attempt to pull the board down. "That's O.K., a little hot mud will fix that" was the response. Well, there was enough left-over board to replace the damaged board, so why not. I did.
Then, in the bathroom, I missed a jack stud that stood out from the wall by an 1/8 inch. This was on a corner and would have been prone to flex and crack if we had tried to screw it down. The guys said they would shim it later.
That night I pulled the board off, planed down the offending stud and replaced the board. Now the corner joint is as tight as a frogs ass. :whistling2:
O.K., I know I'm a little anal retentive, but that's not always a bad thing, is it?
Once the DC sees what my level of expectation is and works accordingly then I figure he won't see me following behind him much longer. I just have the mindset that quality control is most appropriate as the job progresses (and easier to fix) rather than taking care of it during a call-back. 
Ron


----------



## moore

evolve991 said:


> 5/8 does give you a much better bridge over bowed/twisted studs and joists but around here everyone uses 1/2 which billows like a circus tent if not secured properly. Yes it causes BAD FRAMING to show up like 2 foot swells on a river but thats not the hangers problem. An old finisher once told me "You can't make chicken soup out of chicken sh*t" I do my absolute best to do an above average job but drywall can only cover so much garbage. Good framing is a different story,there we CAN get away with skipping field screws because the glue actually catches the rock. But very few builders/framers in this area give a crap about Plumb/True/Level/Flush anymore. Gnarled studs used on plates and openings,crowns down...and up....and down....headers half an inch thicker than jackstuds.....makes a good hanging crew FEEL like butchers. Glue is not overkill when most houses are sheathed with plywood corners and foam everywhere else....what the h*ll else will hold them together? The jokes called Hurricane Straps? Not hardly


:yes::yes::yes::yes:


----------



## Bill from Indy

ive always wondered just how tight a frogs ass really was.......


----------



## moore

Bill from Indy said:


> ive always wondered just how tight a frogs ass really was.......


Just a frog hair tighter of a g/c a$$.


----------



## sdrdrywall

I always heard a frogs ass is so tight its waterproof


----------



## carberry drywall

Yes glue is the best way to go, we glue every stud on wall, and screw every other stud on wall, and we glue ceilings also, but we screw every stud on ceiling. Ben doing drywall over 20 years we use no NAILS. Check out our website www.carberrydrywall.com if you are on facebook look us up under carberry drywall and hit the like button and stay up to date


----------



## moore

carberry drywall said:


> Yes glue is the best way to go, we glue every stud on wall, and screw every other stud on wall, and we glue ceilings also, but we screw every stud on ceiling. Ben doing drywall over 20 years we use no NAILS. Check out our website www.carberrydrywall.com if you are on facebook look us up under carberry drywall and hit the like button and stay up to date


Are you looking for work or what? OK I'll check it out.
ruco ?? the mexicans look like they do a good job .


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Isn't the captain from North Carolina, maybe he can go prime out one of their jobs, see what their made of, make sure their running their tools properly too :yes:

You guys busy ????


----------



## Drywall_King

*Canada and Australia*

iv used glue in Canada and it's a lot differnt than Australia, Glue in canada comes in a calking tube, glue in australia comes in a tub that you put on with a stick that looks kinda like a large butter knife with a wooden handle. now the differnce with glue in canada and here is that you can never put glue where a screw goes. Big fine line that iv made mistakes here on... all the ceilings and walls are glued in australia weather steel or wood. and there is certain glue formats that must be followed correctly. never put glue where a screw goes cause that glue will shrink and pull up where your screw is and cause that screw to pop.. after you coat that screw the second time it shows a ring that you might think is under filled, but dont be fooled the screw has popped cause you have glue underneath it.. after that you need to push up on the ceiling and rescrew wich causes the area next to the glue to completly blow out causeing major repairs in that area.. glue in australia is also not waterproof, I do 2 cieling repairs a day rather than running my ass doing new homes here that pays more than sq foot prices and i dont work hard... Houses in aussie arnt anything like back home thats for sure cracks and waterdamage cause of there ways... Cheers


----------



## gazman

Houses in aussie arnt anything like back home thats for sure cracks and waterdamage cause of there ways... Cheers[/QUOTE]

Fair go I am sure there is shody work in both countries. Just as I am sure there is good work in both countries. If standards are adhered to no problems.


----------



## Drywall_King

You right houses arnt like back home, but the lack of poly an the ceilings like in canada causes a lot of water damage here in auusie land and using 10 mm board 3/8 sheeting and other reasons sure cause more cracksand sagging ceilings than normal. (I never seen a sagging ceiling till i came to oz) all good though cause the right person with the right reputation and know how can fix all thoses sagging ceilings, cracks, water damage and make a very good living...


----------



## gazman

Drywall_King said:


> You right houses arnt like back home, but the lack of poly an the ceilings like in canada causes a lot of water damage here in auusie land and using 10 mm board 3/8 sheeting and other reasons sure cause more cracksand sagging ceilings than normal. (I never seen a sagging ceiling till i came to oz) all good though cause the right person with the right reputation and know how can fix all thoses sagging ceilings, cracks, water damage and make a very good living...


If builders arnt such tight ar$$es and use sisal paper on the roof and steel battens are used and put at 450mm centres ceilings dont sag. As the old saying goes you pay peanuts you get monkeys, and most volume builders are monkeys.


----------



## cazna

Our Ceilings here are 13mm board, 600mm centres for the battens, Seems a bit much to me, it use to be 10mm and 400mm, I havent heard of any complaints of it sagging so far?? Same deal, never screw were you glue or pop it will.


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Our Ceilings here are 13mm board, 600mm centres for the battens, Seems a bit much to me, it use to be 10mm and 400mm, I havent heard of any complaints of it sagging so far?? Same deal, never screw were you glue or pop it will.


Not to start another war ,,But I've seen homes[huge homes] that were not
glued that had popped field screws everywhere. :blink::blink:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Not to start another war ,,But I've seen homes[huge homes] that were not
> glued that had popped field screws everywhere. :blink::blink:


They don't glue around here:whistling2:

Asked the DWC why not once, and he answered where, most of the walls have poly on them. Then his other answer was no builder demands for it, and it would cost more. Not sure if it would cost more, you lads would know the answer to that one ????

Wish they would, less work for me, but then......... they would pay the taper less


----------



## gazman

Dont screw where you glue: Dont crap where you eat. Makes sense to me.
As for getting paid less 2Buck. If you get through the work quicker by not having to do screws and on to the next job it all works out.
It is realy important to use the correct glue. Liquid nails etc is not good enough. We use an acrylic adhesive that is made bay the same manufacturer of our board (CSR GYPROCK) and that is what it is designed for. It sticks like crap to a blanket. Recently I had to pull down a 100m2 alfresco ceiling that I did about 3 years ago (the roofer did a crap job and the whole thing got soaked) when I pulled it down the glue had stuck so well that the largest piece I could pull down was the size of a dinner plate. The only way I could get the glue off was to grind it off with a nylon disc on the angle grinder*. IT STICKS.:thumbsup: *


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Dont screw where you glue: Dont crap where you eat. Makes sense to me.
> As for getting paid less 2Buck. If you get through the work quicker by not having to do screws and on to the next job it all works out.
> It is realy important to use the correct glue. Liquid nails etc is not good enough. We use an acrylic adhesive that is made bay the same manufacturer of our board (CSR GYPROCK) and that is what it is designed for. It sticks like crap to a blanket. Recently I had to pull down a 100m2 alfresco ceiling that I did about 3 years ago (the roofer did a crap job and the whole thing got soaked) when I pulled it down the glue had stuck so well that the largest piece I could pull down was the size of a dinner plate. The only way I could get the glue off was to grind it off with a nylon disc on the angle grinder*. IT STICKS.:thumbsup: *


 
We got the same sh!t here, Sticks like licking a frosty steel telephone pole, (Ask 2Buck) Hey Gazman, Do you guys cut a 100mm x 100mm square of board and screw through this in the centre (Feilds???) of the board to hold it back and push the glue flat then remove it later, We dont, and the glue lumps hold the board out, If you hold a big straight edge on the wall you notice it, Its makes the wall kinda like a letter M, If you get what im on about??


----------



## gazman

We mostly do steel frames so I guess that helps the letter M stuff a bit since steel is straight. We also use a sausage gun to apply the glue, I have found that the aprentices can control the size of the glue daubs better that way so you dont have large daubs holding the sheet off the wall. We also "TAP" the sheet with your hand to see that it is firm against the frame, if not we will put 1 screw in the centre of the ofending stud. We apply 4 daubs of glue per stud, so you can put a screw in the centre without "screwing where glued". 
On timber frames instead of a screw we use a 100 x 100 block with a temperery soft sheet nail. We find this makes a smaller hole and so it minimises patches.


----------



## cazna

You got a pic of a temporary soft sheet nail??? Sounds mysterious??


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> You got a pic of a temporary soft sheet nail??? Sounds mysterious??


Your spelling looks better than mine caz.
What I mean is we nail the temporary block on with a soft sheet nail. I hope the term means somthing to you. It is a light gauge nail about 30mm long.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Your spelling looks better than mine caz.
> What I mean is we nail the temporary block on with a soft sheet nail. I hope the term means somthing to you. It is a light gauge nail about 30mm long.


 
We call them a brad?? And soft sheet is that brown hardboard, custom wood panel.......Maybe????


----------



## Muddy Perfection

rckslash2010 said:


> We were rocking some high end units a few years ago, and last srping I had the opportunity to stay in them. Seemed like every screw in the stairways popped. We just finished rocking an other one of them types of units and on the first one we glued the rock on the stairway. But by the time we got to the second one we were like screw it, we never get recognition for going above and beyond, we just get bitched at when we forget something. They want standard, they'll get standard. They can take all the green glue and aqua rock and shove it strait up there candy ass.:blink:


Someone must've been watching some old school "The Rock" last night.


----------

