# bastard butts



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Truss down 1'' 
Got a machine that can fix this? [just kidding]
so tired of this ,,h/o ask IF I could make It flat ,,within reason.
[nice folks] ,, level 5.. If that's not bad enough . All the hardwood was down
before the house was hung . rip off every bottom sheet. rosen paper covering all the floors .


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

moore said:


> Truss down 1''
> Got a machine that can fix this? [just kidding]
> so tired of this ,,h/o ask IF I could make It flat ,,within reason.
> [nice folks] ,, level 5.. If that's not bad enough . All the hardwood was down
> before the house was hung . rip off every bottom sheet. rosen paper covering all the floors .


I have a power planer I use on those bad trusses..be it on the interrior or exterrior


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

fixing that with mud is unpossible. it will take a bucket just to turn it into a wave.


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## Brian S (Apr 17, 2011)

Have you guys got any Bonding plaster over there? 
You can lay that stuff on very thick, up to 1" in a single coat.
Some of that, then mud, or veneer plaster over the top.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

we have routed along side bad truss in past and let drywall up. If you catch it in time you can add framing alongside bad truss and hotmud over bad truss... Quicker than trying to float that out


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

moore said:


> Truss down 1''
> 
> so tired of this ,,h/o ask IF I could make It flat ,,within reason.


 
The answer is: "No. Remove the sheets and rectify the framing, at the cost of the framer. Or decide you can live with it."

Any other answer or wishywashyness about trying your best will end in: "That finisher did an awful job."

You know it to be true.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Just climb up in the attic and relief cut the truss :laughing::lol::whistling2:


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

I had one like that about 6 years ago. I wound up taking a 6' 2x4 and two buckets of quickset and screeting down both sides for first coat. Then I mudded it about 4 other times. It at least looked flat when I was done but it had texture over it so that helped hide the ugliness I called a butt joint.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> Just climb up in the attic and relief cut the truss :laughing::lol::whistling2:


Seriously...do it.put in a schimm and scabe on a new 2 by 4..


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Same house.. and that's not the only one we ,,,I had to cut.
G/C called ,and gave me directions to this home. I sent the hangers .
I will take part blame for not checking things out before hand.
We work on clusters all the time ,, but this one Is bad.
Truss up.. truss down.. stud in..stud out

The H/O Is cool,, he knows why the framing ,,and the lumber cost was so cheap.. That's what he wanted ,at the time.

Wait till they get my bill:yes::yes:.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Not sure which coat to call this. How much mud will a [email protected] ceiling
hold ? :lol: Should have used 20 footer.


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## msd (Apr 10, 2011)

just use rock splicers and problem solved never break butts on framing lumber


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

msd said:


> just use rock splicers and problem solved never break butts on framing lumber


Hangers here would through them in the burn pile.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

moore said:


> Not sure which coat to call this. How much mud will a [email protected] ceiling
> hold ? :lol: Should have used 20 footer.


That's one hell of a butt ! Looks like you pulled it off though. :thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> That's one hell of a butt ! Looks like you pulled it off though. :thumbsup:


Not yet mudslingr. The cathedrals not that great either .
In the morning while I'm fresh ,I'm cool with this mess.
By the time I leave I'm pissed.http://www.drywalltalk.com/images/smilies/mad.gif Oh well ,,I'm working.http://www.drywalltalk.com/images/smilies/yes.gif


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

thats why they should of strapped the ceilings. I would get a piece of 6" metal strapping, 4' long, and float it out first coat.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

moore said:


> Hangers here would through them in the burn pile.


 that would be a dumb move on there part


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

They don't care misner .they don't have to finish the board.
Come down here ,and show these guys how to wood frame .. PLEASE!


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

moore said:


> They don't care misner .they don't have to finish the board.
> Come down here ,and show these guys how to wood frame .. PLEASE!


 i know i know...luckely my dad was taught by a good builder..my dad taught me good..and thats how i roll....ballls to the wall and quality first...


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## msd (Apr 10, 2011)

when i was first taught to hang we would put a strait edge across trusses and studs and break on a truss that was up or a stud that was back in


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

msd said:


> when i was first taught to hang we would put a strait edge across trusses and studs and break on a truss that was up or a stud that was back in


I was taught the same msd. ,,but I CAN'T do both .. I sub the hanging.
Do all the finishing myself. [lone taper] Don't have the time to be everywhere
at once. I need evolve .....now that's a hanger.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Brian S said:


> Have you guys got any Bonding plaster over there?
> You can lay that stuff on very thick, up to 1" in a single coat.
> Some of that, then mud, or veneer plaster over the top.


No bonding plaster, just boarders drywalling plastered









I think I know what your talking about, One of our plaster guys would half to answer that (DSjohn) Think it's called structo-lite or some type of pearl-lite based product. Moore could handle the stuff, he's a hand taper:yes:

You half to fire/set drywall screws through out the sheet with the heads sticking out in the hollow areas, so the product has something to grab on too. Then you coat over it, you can coat up to one inch thick (2.54cm).

But. it looks like Moore has her under control :thumbsup: maybe next time


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> Seriously...do it.put in a schimm and scabe on a new 2 by 4..


Power planer _before_ hand is the way to go on structural roof elements.....good luck finding a sub hanger who's going to take the effort for production piece work prices though :laughing: It's a shame the board was glued, you could just unscrew the neighboring trusses and drop those down a touch. I'm not down with cutting trusses :no: ...there are too many forces for me to trust a simple scab unless it's really long and you nail the piss out of it.

Looks like moore's gone the only way possible and begun the float. 

Hey moore, you wanna borrow my 4 ft. fresno with handles welded on it?


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## Mario (Feb 5, 2011)

The fault goes to the framer! Is this a new build or remodel? The hangers should ALWAYS shim, within reason. 1" is just too far out to shim or rectify in the finish. It reminds me of something people would say in the studio when I would point out problems in their takes; "Oh, we'll just fix that in the mixdown!"


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

done,,,, carpenter was right....


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

msd said:


> when i was first taught to hang we would put a strait edge across trusses and studs and break on a truss that was up or a stud that was back in


Proper planning prevents piss poor performance ... way to be ... situational aware.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Field General said:


> Proper planning prevents piss poor performance ... way to be ... situational aware.


I live In a Perfect world General just like you,,,:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Br549


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