# Bad Bazooka



## Kiwiman

I'm not a bazooka user, although I've had one for a few years, it's a long story of a love hate relationship we've had over that time...You know what it's like when you try a new tool... try it, argue with it, then hang it up for 6 months, then you think of something that might be wrong with it, fix it, try it, then find something else wrong with it,  argue with it....and the cycle continues. If I remember right, the last problem I had was dry tape for the first 12 inches or so (the mud thin enough to not be the problem), Capt, you swear by WD40, could this be my problem that I'm not lubing it down the tube enough, I think from memory I would have used silicon spray. It used to have a clutch slipping problem but I fixed that. This is an old and well used bazooka, not sure of the brand but it appears identical to any other brand, any idea's fella's?


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## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> I'm not a bazooka user, although I've had one for a few years, it's a long story of a love hate relationship we've had over that time...You know what it's like when you try a new tool... try it, argue with it, then hang it up for 6 months, then you think of something that might be wrong with it, fix it, try it, then find something else wrong with it,  argue with it....and the cycle continues. If I remember right, the last problem I had was dry tape for the first 12 inches or so (the mud thin enough to not be the problem), Capt, you swear by WD40, could this be my problem that I'm not lubing it down the tube enough, I think from memory I would have used silicon spray. It used to have a clutch slipping problem but I fixed that. This is an old and well used bazooka, not sure of the brand but it appears identical to any other brand, any idea's fella's?


I remember the first day I ran one, I came home, took a shower, sat on the couch, and just wanted to CRY like a little girl.

really, there are only two things that can cause this poblem
1) you are advancing the tape with the sleeve before the drive wheels engage the wall to put the mud out.
2) the cylinder is slipping backwards in the tube creating an air pocket.


There are variations, but they come from the same two types of problems. If the drive wheels "slip" they will not put the mud out, perhaps they are worn? If the "clicker" is not engaging, it will let the plunger slide back, or not move forward. (since you said that you get 12" of dry tape, I suspect this, you can't hardly get that much dry tape just from sliding the sleeve too soon)

Somewhere, you ae eaither advancing tape ahead of mud, or you are failing to keep the mud up tight and rolling forward.

Don't know if you understand the "clicker", it keeps the cable from going back down. It "clicks" just to let you know its working. Newer ones have and "adjustable" clicker wheel, cause you can reduce alittle effort, if it is adjusted at the VERY lowest pressure to maintain, but if the clicker fails to stop the backwards motion, you will never be happy.

Lube will not solve your problem, it just makes it easier to use.


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## joepro0000

take it to AMES


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## cazna

I wouldnt mind having a look at that, but were a bit far away. I reckon i could pick whats wrong and what needs fixed, My bet is the clicker too, i have manuals and dvds on how to fix them, you can get a master manual from all wall that points everything out, You dont know the brand, so what colour is it then? If you want to frieght it to me i will check it out.
They seem complicated but once you use them and have a good look around they quite basic really.
I wouldnt be without mine now, its awsome.


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## Kiwiman

Thanks Capt & Caz :thumbsup:, I think you may have hit on what I've been missing, I think it's the clicker, The colour is silver/grey... could be Drywall master?...Dunno. The other thing with this bazooka is the drive chain is very stretched.
I've got a couple of days before my next house so I'll strip it down again then give it another go with the next job. I'll lt you know if I come home crying like a girl or not. Got your pm Caz and thanks, if I don't have any luck I might take up the offer - Cheers.


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## cazna

This is a great dvd kiwiman, if yours is a standard bazooka.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Video-instructi...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f00259920


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## Saul_Surfaces

Columbia has a good manual on their website that might give you tips. There are some pretty fair tapetech videos on youtube as well if you're wondering if your technique is a problem.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> Thanks Capt & Caz :thumbsup:, I think you may have hit on what I've been missing, I think it's the clicker, The colour is silver/grey... could be Drywall master?...Dunno. The other thing with this bazooka is the drive chain is very stretched.
> I've got a couple of days before my next house so I'll strip it down again then give it another go with the next job. I'll lt you know if I come home crying like a girl or not. Got your pm Caz and thanks, if I don't have any luck I might take up the offer - Cheers.


Drywall master is black tube with silver sleeve. Columbia is grey tube with blue (I think, maybe the other way) but its grey and blue. Blue-line is blue. TapeTech is gold and silver. Northstar is green mostly. Concord is red. Don't have a clue about ames, never used one. 

The drive chain is probbly not the problem. Sometimes they go bad, but usually not. I had a drive chain go bad on a DM, but you can tell, just by spinning it slowly by hand. Sometimes, the links will get stiff and not roll properly (think bike chain that is rusted and frooze up). 

I was thinking about this post and my reply today, another thing that may be a culprit. IF, IF your are allowing air into the pump when you are filling the tube, you will have dry spots in your tape everytime you roll an air bubble out of it. You MUST make sure you are not sucking ANY air through the pump. Keep your bucket at least 1/2 full, and thin enough that you are not sucking air around the pump cylinder. Some times with thick mud, it will let air around the pump cylinder, even when the bucket id near full, you can hear the air being sucked.

Keep us posted, you can do this !!!!!!!!


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## DSJOHN

Ames and tapetech are nearly identical ,we used to have an ames guy about 5 miles from me but closed up in 92.


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## drywallmike08

hey who needs a damn tube any how if your not use to it and dont have time to practice do it the way i do string by hand faster than all the border jumpers i never use a tube only cause i can hand string faster wich sounds dumb but it works for me !


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## Saul_Surfaces

Captain may be onto something about the air. The whole gooseneck and pump needs to be full of mud *****before***** the taper is put on the gooseneck. I stick a mud pan under the gooseneck and pump till mud comes out at the start of a taping day. I prime it every time the pump has to come out of the bucket to mix too. There's always a little bubble comes out from setting the pump back into new mud.

Once the taper is full, and back off the gooseneck, I turn the drive key until mud comes out to make sure my tape will come out mudded. after that, mine's good to go.


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## cazna

A lot of good help coming through, what support :thumbsup:

When you use it and then put it down? do you put it back on the gooseneck with gate closed or do you stand it up in the corner with head up?? I know this may sound silly and obvious but if it stood up in the corner the mud can creep down the tube, so when you pick it up and use it you will get a long dry spot till the cable pulls mud back up to the head, or if you put it on the pump and filled it there would be an air pocket as well, I know this becouse i done it when i first used mine, i though it would have less chance of getting knocked over in the corner, but its gotta go back on mr gooseneck.


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## Kiwiman

You are right Caz, a lot of good support here. It's been a long time since my last relationship/breakup with the bazooka from hell but I do remember I would get dry tape at the start of one corner and without putting it down have the same problem on the next corner, I did use to have problems with the clutch slipping but not this time. Capt, when you say clicker, you're not talking about the clutch are you? I was thinking you were referring to the wee roller that rides on the teeth, my wheel can turn both directions and there appears to be no gizmo to stop it back turning...unless thats where you might have been referring to the clutch?
There's definitely no air pockets getting in from the pump etc and it was always put back on the gooseneck before throwing it at out the window :icon_eek:. I might see if I can get a picky posted of the offending beast and we can all play name this brand....Back soon.


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## Kiwiman

Our first arguement.


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## cazna

Bingo, in pic three, that wee wheel that is under the main wheel on the left, see the groove worn in it, Its worn out and not working, that groove shouldnt be there and you need a new one. That little wheel stops it from back rolling and keeps the mud up.
That dvd i linked you to shows how to fix it up, but if your going to play doctors i would get a rebuild kit for it and swap the main wheels over, the cogs are prob a bit worn on the left wheel to, But what brand is it?? i cant answer that, it looks standard???


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## cazna

Is it stuck there? it should be a little loose and able to move back and forth a little under the main drive wheel to lock it going backwards and move back to allow the main drive wheel to go forwards??


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## Kiwiman

Oooooh! Is that what it's suposed to do. Is that wee roller supposed to jamb the the main wheel when it rolls backward? I can see how I can fix that myself if thats the case, I can put a shim in behind the block that the creaser wheel arm sits on so it will close the gap between the wheel and the roller...Am I on the right track?


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## cazna

Maybe, it has to be free the move back when to drive wheel goes forward and as soon as the drive wheel spins backward the teeth grab that little wheel and it moves forward under the teeth and locks the drive wheel. Thats the clicking sound, that little wheel clicking on the teeth of the drive wheel. it only moves forward and back on the end of that pin about 4mm, just enough to lock the main drive wheel and then click out of the way when going forward, it may even just be stuck back with dried mud??
How am i doin Capt???? am i on the money??? oh and whats your address kiwiman so i can send the bill :thumbup: Let me guess, Private Box P*** O**


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## cazna

drywallmike08 said:


> hey who needs a damn tube any how if your not use to it and dont have time to practice do it the way i do string by hand faster than all the border jumpers i never use a tube only cause i can hand string faster wich sounds dumb but it works for me !


Whats String and border jumpers dude??? And the damn tubes are awsome once you get going, 10years i didnt have one and such a fool was I. Young Dumb And full Of C** made me blind.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Maybe, it has to be free the move back when to drive wheel goes forward and as soon as the drive wheel spins backward the teeth grab that little wheel and it moves forward under the teeth and locks the drive wheel. Thats the clicking sound, that little wheel clicking on the teeth of the drive wheel. it only moves forward and back on the end of that pin about 4mm, just enough to lock the main drive wheel and then click out of the way when going forward, it may even just be stuck back with dried mud??
> How am i doin Capt???? am i on the money??? oh and whats your address kiwiman so i can send the bill :thumbup: Let me guess, Private Box P*** O**


No it's not stuck with mud, I think it's just worn, I'll fix it then give it a try in a couple of days on the next house. By the way send the bill to private box F*** O** ...Strugglers Gully...NZ. 
Thanks Fella's:thumbsup:


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## Muddauber

Kiwiman said:


> Oooooh! Is that what it's suposed to do. Is that wee roller supposed to jamb the the main wheel when it rolls backward? I can see how I can fix that myself if thats the case, I can put a shim in behind the block that the creaser wheel arm sits on so it will close the gap between the wheel and the roller...Am I on the right track?



Yes, that will work. I've done it before.

What I used was a small square piece of metal corner bead.

Loosen the plate screws & slide the piece under the plate & your back in business.:thumbsup:

My Columbia colors are just the opposite of yours. Silver tube with gray sleeve.

Good luck!


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## cazna

My pick is its an old tapeworm??


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## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> Maybe, it has to be free the move back when to drive wheel goes forward and as soon as the drive wheel spins backward the teeth grab that little wheel and it moves forward under the teeth and locks the drive wheel. Thats the clicking sound, that little wheel clicking on the teeth of the drive wheel. it only moves forward and back on the end of that pin about 4mm, just enough to lock the main drive wheel and then click out of the way when going forward, it may even just be stuck back with dried mud??
> How am i doin Capt???? am i on the money??? oh and whats your address kiwiman so i can send the bill :thumbup: Let me guess, Private Box P*** O**


Excellant reply, and yes i think we have a winner, If your drive wheels roll backwards at all, that is causing your problem. I tried shimming one out once, but heck, it didn't work too good and a new one is real cheap and super easy to install. The clicker looks worn away to me also, just get a new one and go for it. When it is working, and you roll the drive wheels forward, it goes, click,click,click, etc etc, if you got no click, you got a problem.

I don't recoginize that tube but they are all mostly the same, If you order parts from all-wall, unless you specify, you're liable to get a bag of parts and each one from a differant manufactorer. Its usually only the non-essentials, like the sleeve ring, or the lever that moves the wheel, are they differant, and even these will interchange, just look differant.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> My pick is its an old tapeworm??


 I see the Tapeworms have the drive chain on the opposite side, colours getting close though, looking at pictures of Tapetech the parts look absolutely identical but don't know if they ever did grey ones. Clicker is fixed by the way, took about 5 minutes and works perfectly.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> I see the Tapeworms have the drive chain on the opposite side, colours getting close though, looking at pictures of Tapetech the parts look absolutely identical but don't know if they ever did grey ones. Clicker is fixed by the way, took about 5 minutes and works perfectly.


Kool man, now go soup up some mud and let us know how it works now :thumbup:


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## Muddauber

And, don't forget the W-D 40 :thumbsup:


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## 1wallboardsman

Kiwiman said:


> I see the Tapeworms have the drive chain on the opposite side, colours getting close though, looking at pictures of Tapetech the parts look absolutely identical but don't know if they ever did grey ones. Clicker is fixed by the way, took about 5 minutes and works perfectly.


Tapeworm also has a clutch system instead of the clicker brake. While your shim is working order the parts you need because your rig will go down only when you really need it.

Your drive wheel on that creaser strap side is probably worn down fairly smooth, you'll need one of those. The little drum-like thing that locks it up is called a roll back brake with most brands. As your drive wheel wears, it will cut a groove in this little drum, and as that brake turns on its metal pad, it wears into that. You are probably at the point where you need to replace the whole deal. The little metal pad is called the anvil.

Ames-tapetech have the cheapest parts for the most money, Goldblatt makes a rollback brake that is stainless steel and it holds up much better. They also have a drive-chain adjuster that can be put on older guns. This piece will have you rolling smoother and double your drive chain life. Goldblatt also has the drive chain for half of what you would pay the TapeTech bastards.

I am now working again in the Atlanta area as the greatest Drywall Estimator, that the world... has ever known. But I am grossly underpaid, so I can do repairs on the side.

jdl


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## Capt-sheetrock

Muddauber said:


> And, don't forget the W-D 40 :thumbsup:


Thanks for adding that, I forgot,,, its the oletimers thing and all.:thumbsup:


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## drywallmike08

cazna said:


> Whats String and border jumpers dude??? And the damn tubes are awsome once you get going, 10years i didnt have one and such a fool was I. Young Dumb And full Of C** made me blind.


Maybee right but I've had a new set of tape techs for five years and the only thing with a scratch is the angle box but then again most of my work is remodels why spend 30 mins cleaning when it takes 30 to do it by hand I guess you got me !


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## cazna

1wallboardsman said:


> Tapeworm also has a clutch system instead of the clicker brake. While your shim is working order the parts you need because your rig will go down only when you really need it.
> 
> Your drive wheel on that creaser strap side is probably worn down fairly smooth, you'll need one of those. The little drum-like thing that locks it up is called a roll back brake with most brands. As your drive wheel wears, it will cut a groove in this little drum, and as that brake turns on its metal pad, it wears into that. You are probably at the point where you need to replace the whole deal. The little metal pad is called the anvil.
> 
> Ames-tapetech have the cheapest parts for the most money, Goldblatt makes a rollback brake that is stainless steel and it holds up much better. They also have a drive-chain adjuster that can be put on older guns. This piece will have you rolling smoother and double your drive chain life. Goldblatt also has the drive chain for half of what you would pay the TapeTech bastards.
> 
> I am now working again in the Atlanta area as the greatest Drywall Estimator, that the world... has ever known. But I am grossly underpaid, so I can do repairs on the side.
> 
> jdl


 
Wow the man himself has spoken, I have your tools and bazooka repair dvds john, they are a great help and convinced me to put the hawk and trowel away and go auto tools, and its changed my life, I felt like the hawk and trowel was breaking me down, swinging on the damn things all day sucked, now i have a new lease of life and it couldnt be better, takes some time but so worth it. Thanks for making the dvds john, :thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman

1wallboardsman said:


> Tapeworm also has a clutch system instead of the clicker brake. While your shim is working order the parts you need because your rig will go down only when you really need it.
> 
> Your drive wheel on that creaser strap side is probably worn down fairly smooth, you'll need one of those. The little drum-like thing that locks it up is called a roll back brake with most brands. As your drive wheel wears, it will cut a groove in this little drum, and as that brake turns on its metal pad, it wears into that. You are probably at the point where you need to replace the whole deal. The little metal pad is called the anvil.
> 
> Ames-tapetech have the cheapest parts for the most money, Goldblatt makes a rollback brake that is stainless steel and it holds up much better. They also have a drive-chain adjuster that can be put on older guns. This piece will have you rolling smoother and double your drive chain life. Goldblatt also has the drive chain for half of what you would pay the TapeTech bastards.
> 
> I am now working again in the Atlanta area as the greatest Drywall Estimator, that the world... has ever known. But I am grossly underpaid, so I can do repairs on the side.
> 
> jdl


Thanks for the help John, what I'm actually trying to acheive is to revive the beast long enough for me to see whether or not I want to start using one full time and retire the strat (banjo), auto tools here are two to three times the price so I really want to be sure I'm not going to spend thousands on something that would end up as an expensive bong:wacko: or a didgeridoo.


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## cazna

Just do it man, jump in. I will help you along, i was scared of big new homes and they passed me by for years, now its the bigger the better, its great. You dont need a new bazooka just kit out that one, keep a watch out on trademe you will be surprised what shows up. I have almost all the tools now, its cost thousands and i couldnt care less compared to what im doing, and making now. The tool cost is a drop in the bucket.


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## drywallmike08

cazna said:


> Just do it man, jump in. I will help you along, i was scared of big new homes and they passed me by for years, now its the bigger the better, its great. You dont need a new bazooka just kit out that one, keep a watch out on trademe you will be surprised what shows up. I have almost all the tools now, its cost thousands and i couldnt care less compared to what im doing, and making now. The tool cost is a drop in the bucket.


 ive only been in drywall for 13 years and you are damn rite first new house scared the hell outa me i hung all the board my self even with 15 fooot high lid in living room 8 footers on scafold about 11:00 at nite brother in law loaned his tape techs to me took me two days just to put on paper tape and i was so worn out by then i had our finishing crew do the rest now i pray for bigger houses


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## Tim0282

It looks like a TapeWorm. Fix that arm and you'll be good to go! :thumbsup: You'll learn to love it! You will pull it out on a ten sheet job, because it is worth it!


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## Kiwiman

Yeah, I've always said the bigger the better, a small house more or less has the same amount of corners and angles as a big house but the small house is fiddly and more time consuming with no big straight (money making) runs with auto tools. Hey Cazna, I'm not scared of no bazooka I'm just not the sharpest tool in the shed :huh: and it takes me longer to get the hang of things, also I priced some parts along time ago and I think the chain alone was up around $300, so if I do like using it I would rather just replace the whole thing because it would be with me for a long time to come...Do you want to buy a second hand bazooka Caz, it's a really good one...Honest!


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## Saul_Surfaces

how do your tools cost so much? My Columbia taper was only $450 on ebay used (in great condition), and shipping from the US to New Zealand for a bazooka looks like only about $100 (prices in US dollars). Your dollar looks like about 1.5 to the US dollar, but by my math, you could have bought the one I bought for $825 New Zealand Dollars (plus your taxes). Even a new one should only cost $2100 in your dollars. Someone must be making a killing selling to you guys.


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## cazna

Its the sales reps marking up everything, they get exclusive deals on bringing in things so they jack up the price, and if you buy from an overseas store direct and import things over the value of $400 customs hold it till you pay them 12.5% of the cost plus thier fees, thats GST, Goods And Services Tax, we have to add to our accounts as well but you can claim it back on your tax return.

And as for not being to sharp kiwiman when i first used my bazooka i pumped it full of thick un thinned mud, nearly broke the handle off the pump, then it wouldnt tape, i push some tape through by hand but the main drive wheel wouldnt turn due to thick mud and it kept ripping little bits of tape, so then i tryed to get the mud back out with the key on the side and it was so hard to turn and it took so long to empty it i ripped the key clean off, broke it, lucky i had help from the guy i got it from to fix it again, So how sharp was that!! Talk about a dumb arse. I couldnt get my head around thinning mud so far it would run off the hawk and trowel.

Then once i over thinned it, and started boxing got about 1 metre and it all turned into a wet cold sloppy hat, And didnt taste very nice at all, some flavoured mud would be good sometimes? Dumb arse again, Maybe i should start a thread and call it Dumb arse drywall.

Its sheer stubborness and F***ing things up till you get the hang of it that gets me through.

And your bazooka would be a great one for playing doctors on to learn a bit, a kit from all wall wouldnt be to bad if you could get the parts, be a good stand by if the the main one went down.


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## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> Its the sales reps marking up everything, they get exclusive deals on bringing in things so they jack up the price, and if you buy from an overseas store direct and import things over the value of $400 customs hold it till you pay them 12.5% of the cost plus thier fees, thats GST, Goods And Services Tax, we have to add to our accounts as well but you can claim it back on your tax return.
> 
> And as for not being to sharp kiwiman when i first used my bazooka i pumped it full of thick un thinned mud, nearly broke the handle off the pump, then it wouldnt tape, i push some tape through by hand but the main drive wheel wouldnt turn due to thick mud and it kept ripping little bits of tape, so then i tryed to get the mud back out with the key on the side and it was so hard to turn and it took so long to empty it i ripped the key clean off, broke it, lucky i had help from the guy i got it from to fix it again, So how sharp was that!! Talk about a dumb arse. I couldnt get my head around thinning mud so far it would run off the hawk and trowel.
> 
> Then once i over thinned it, and started boxing got about 1 metre and it all turned into a wet cold sloppy hat, And didnt taste very nice at all, some flavoured mud would be good sometimes? Dumb arse again, Maybe i should start a thread and call it Dumb arse drywall.
> 
> Its sheer stubborness and F***ing things up till you get the hang of it that gets me through.
> 
> And your bazooka would be a great one for playing doctors on to learn a bit, a kit from all wall wouldnt be to bad if you could get the parts, be a good stand by if the the main one went down.


Well said !!!!!!!!! Like I said, the first day I ran a zooka, I just wanted to come home, sit on the couch and cry like a Bit&h. But I KNEW it was the way to go, so I persevered. 

As for thinning the mud, ALWAYS err on the loose side,,, its faster to learn that way, and alot less frustrating.

But really man,,, check into the tariff on recieveing goods from friends,,, might beat the tax thing there,,, you got a bunch of folks here that will "mail" you a tool,,, if that gets around the Gov??? See as Americans,, we are ALL about getting around the gov. !!!:thumbsup:


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## drywallmike08

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Well said !!!!!!!!! Like I said, the first day I ran a zooka, I just wanted to come home, sit on the couch and cry like a Bit&h. But I KNEW it was the way to go, so I persevered.
> 
> As for thinning the mud, ALWAYS err on the loose side,,, its faster to learn that way, and alot less frustrating.
> 
> But really man,,, check into the tariff on recieveing goods from friends,,, might beat the tax thing there,,, you got a bunch of folks here that will "mail" you a tool,,, if that gets around the Gov??? See as Americans,, we are ALL about getting around the gov. !!!:thumbsup:


 damn tootin !


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## Kiwiman

Well I gave it another bash and only tried it on the corners because I didn't want to waste too much time experimenting. The tapes still dry at the start, I prime it then start advancing the tape as I start rolling, then there's the occaisional dry spot (minor), I wonder if it has anything to do with the buggered seals, there's mud oozing out around the clutch spindle behind the sprocket and on the opposite side as well, the seal in the tube isn't perfect and there's a very small amount of "blow by" left behind the plunger. What I ended up doing is run the tape up the wall until it came right, then lift it off and start again without cutting the tape and leaving the rest on the floor, once it came right it was flying, I used fibafuse tape and that was ideal for seeing what was going on because you can see any dry spots through the tape...No surprises later. How do you guys get on running the bazooka down a tight corner between a wall and a door where there's ony like a 1-1/2" gap, do you run them later by hand or is there a trick to the bazooka?


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## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> Well I gave it another bash and only tried it on the corners because I didn't want to waste too much time experimenting. The tapes still dry at the start, I prime it then start advancing the tape as I start rolling, then there's the occaisional dry spot (minor), I wonder if it has anything to do with the buggered seals, there's mud oozing out around the clutch spindle behind the sprocket and on the opposite side as well, the seal in the tube isn't perfect and there's a very small amount of "blow by" left behind the plunger. What I ended up doing is run the tape up the wall until it came right, then lift it off and start again without cutting the tape and leaving the rest on the floor, once it came right it was flying, I used fibafuse tape and that was ideal for seeing what was going on because you can see any dry spots through the tape...No surprises later. How do you guys get on running the bazooka down a tight corner between a wall and a door where there's ony like a 1-1/2" gap, do you run them later by hand or is there a trick to the bazooka?


 
I doubt it has anything to do with leakage. More than likely, it is an operator error. When I have dry spots, they are always, 3" into a butt seam. Its because I failed to make the transistion from lifting off the last pull, and rolling into the next pull. I can blame that on whatever (or whomever) is available, but its MY FAULT.

The way to run it in a tight corner, is to just let ONE drive wheel do the driving, it doesn't matter waht the other wheel is doing. Like running a long flat on the ceiling. Use the right wheel for 4 ft and then swing the zooka over and let the left wheel run. That will keep the mud from raining down on you and it will also keep the tape from falling off cause its only stuck on one side.

Hang in thar man !!!!!!!


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## Kiwiman

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I doubt it has anything to do with leakage. More than likely, it is an operator error. When I have dry spots, they are always, 3" into a butt seam. Its because I failed to make the transistion from lifting off the last pull, and rolling into the next pull. I can blame that on whatever (or whomever) is available, but its MY FAULT.
> 
> The way to run it in a tight corner, is to just let ONE drive wheel do the driving, it doesn't matter waht the other wheel is doing. Like running a long flat on the ceiling. Use the right wheel for 4 ft and then swing the zooka over and let the left wheel run. That will keep the mud from raining down on you and it will also keep the tape from falling off cause its only stuck on one side.
> 
> Hang in thar man !!!!!!!


My thoughts are it's the drongo holding on to it as well, But I just stripped it down this morning and found the "cable drum" might have been slipping because the grub screw was loose...I can see the next house will be a trial and error...again! I had to laugh...when I was clearing a tape jam I could picture a tortoise slowly going past with a banjo giving me the finger, I think thats what would put me off using the bazooka is if I spent too much time learning, fixing and cleaning it, where as the banjo is slower but fairly simple....A little bit like me I spose:stupid:


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## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> My thoughts are it's the drongo holding on to it as well, But I just stripped it down this morning and found the "cable drum" might have been slipping because the grub screw was loose...I can see the next house will be a trial and error...again! I had to laugh...when I was clearing a tape jam I could picture a tortoise slowly going past with a banjo giving me the finger, I think thats what would put me off using the bazooka is if I spent too much time learning, fixing and cleaning it, where as the banjo is slower but fairly simple....A little bit like me I spose:stupid:


Look, I ran a banjo for near 20 years before i got a zooka. I thought for the first two years, I can a banjo just as fast. BUT after hanging in there, I now KNOW I was fooling myself. Of course, if you are adept at running a banjo and just learning a zooka,you are faster with it. 

Quit your bitching and get on with it !!!!!!!!!!


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## cazna

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Look, I ran a banjo for near 20 years before i got a zooka. I thought for the first two years, I can a banjo just as fast. BUT after hanging in there, I now KNOW I was fooling myself. Of course, if you are adept at running a banjo and just learning a zooka,you are faster with it.
> 
> Quit your bitching and get on with it !!!!!!!!!!


 
Sounds like a voice coming from vast experience kiwiman, best take it on board. And that grub screw might be the fixer, i was thinking that but didnt know the words to describe it.

Anyway hang in there dude, screw the banjo idea, with the zooka you can tape ceilings from the ground and not get up and down on steps, thats a huge time and energy saver, but you do need a wipedown knife on a long handle as well.


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## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> Sounds like a voice coming from vast experience kiwiman, best take it on board. And that grub screw might be the fixer, i was thinking that but didnt know the words to describe it.
> 
> Anyway hang in there dude, screw the banjo idea, with the zooka you can tape ceilings from the ground and not get up and down on steps, thats a huge time and energy saver, but you do need a wipedown knife on a long handle as well.


I know I come off as an grumpy old dude,,, thats cause i am one.

It is gonna take a bit to learn a new tool, but I think its obvious you already see the potential, your just frustrated cause your haveing to learn a new way. If you think back,, the banjo whupped your butt at first too.

If your haveing ALOT of tape jams,,, run a small "straight" screw driver up the slot that the tape goes through and "widen" it a bit. My DM tube had a tight tape chute, and that solved the problem. Also remember to change your blade every cpl hundred brds,, they are exspensive, but when they dull, you are asking for problems.

Good idea caz, about the knife. I have used duck tape and taped a knife to a paint pole and/or an angle head pole. I have a paint shield rig, that I took the shield off of, and a knife blade will screw rght to it, (after you grind off the rivits). So just buy a cheap knife from lowes, grind the rivits off, throw out the handle, attach it to the paint shield rig, after throwing out the paint shield, then attach it to a paint pole, and bingo, you can wipe down a 12 ft ceiling from the floor.


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## cazna

I have a better than ever extension handle for the corner roller and a rankee small extension handle wipe down knife which is to short, so it just so happens i unscrewed the rankee wipedown and it screwed onto the BTE extension handle and i have the best long handle wipedown knife ever, the X10 wipedownknife from all wall is the same, get an extension handle and your off like a rocket, i can only wipe the tape and put the access back in the bucket, cant seem to get the hang of filling the taper with the access mud and the wipedown knife, hence im after the mud diver so i can fill the 7 flatbox and whip that over it after i have wiped down. I just leave it and box it later when dry at this stage.


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## Kiwiman

Hey grumpy old dude, I hear what you're saying, there's no doubt in my mind the zooks the fastest way to go, I planned ahead and carried a hacksaw blade to clear the tape jams as well:yes:, I think my problem is trying to learn a new tool thats past it's use by date, I might put it in a display cabinet for vintage tools. My extension knife is made from the Plasterx brand, it's got a rubber coated plastic handle thats actually hollow, cut the end off, heat it until it's soft then screw a paint pole into it, make sure it's dead straight while it cools, then you can screw what ever ext pole you like onto it, works good as a floor scraper too.


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## Saul_Surfaces

do you make sure to completely stop the bazooka before pulling the tube to cut the tape? If you cut while rolling, you're nearly guaranteed to jam.


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## Bill from Indy

Ive been running the tube for 15+ years and I prefer it over a banjo any day...for me, personally, the banjo is harder on you physically than the tube..pulling top angles or eliminator track on commercial jobs will wear your shoulders out..

you really need to run the tube consistent for about a year before you can say you know how to run one..they take some time to fully learn, but once you do...you'll be hooked

some tricks ive learned over the years is to take a piece of metal corner bead..cut one side off just inside the bead and use it for a "feeder cleaner"...run it up through the ramp and right out the top where the tape comes out..it will clear any tape slivers...I personally prefer the older style straight blades than the diamond ones, but they are a rarity these days...

as for knife, I personally use a wallboard 7 and 9" long handle knife...I use the 7 for taping and the 9 for picking behind the box in the angles where need be..take the plug off the end and 1.5" pvc will fit inside the handle...I make mine about 5-6ft..I can wipe the tape coat off the floor...only thing I get on stilts for anymore really is to pick out the angles or kick a bucket around

just hang in there...you'll get the hang of it and be happy in the end

Like Capt said...play with one wheel or 2 wheels to get to a happy point...I personally use one wheel on takeoff on flats then run both about 3ft from each end..it will rain on you sometimes...just keep moving and stay out of the way...for me, you get less drag on the tape when wiping down from floor vs one wheel..it will want to stretch and wrinkle some..cut your flats about 1/2" short of the angle and "scrape" the flat into the angle at the ends..you'll find it to be faster and cleaner

the tube is a self taught tool as they all are really..just takes time and hands on to get the hang of it


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## betterdrywall

For a top quality tape finish,, The banjo is far superior to the bazooka, In the hands of an experienced taper,, (not a go and blow fly by night) And a Builder or GC or Home owner willing to pay extra for quality,, The Banjo is Outstanding, and I feel that that style and quality and knowledge/skill of the taping methods using a banjo is long gone and left for only a few that may never beable to pass the training along,, due to the Poor pay from GC's and builders. ,, it's a slop and go get r done and hope you make 2 cents world these days.


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## Kiwiman

Saul - yep, I know to fully stop before cutting, I just like causing myself more grief :blush:.
When comparing bazooka's to banjo's, take my severely "tinkered with" banjo out of the equation, it's got a wheel much like a bazooka and a tape cutter and a filling nozzle for a mud pump, once the first 3 feet or so of tape is on you just walk along taping at the same speed as a zooka...but only using one arm, it's got some other minor modifications to make it run easier, it doesn't quite hold as much mud though, it aint no zooka but it aint no banjo either.


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## Saul_Surfaces

do you have a picture of your banjo Kiwi? I pretty much abandoned my banjo when I got my first auto taper, but it would be nice to perk up my banjo for small jobs.


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## Kiwiman

Saul_Surfaces said:


> do you have a picture of your banjo Kiwi? I pretty much abandoned my banjo when I got my first auto taper, but it would be nice to perk up my banjo for small jobs.


You'll only laugh, but I'll see what I can do :thumbsup:. 
I bought the tapeshooter many moons ago and only tried it once then retired it for a few years (you were right Capt), until one wet Sunday stuck at home sitting looking at the welder and looking at buckets of scrap steel...Idle hands are the devils workshop:devil2:. It was supposed to be a temporary prototype at the time so it doesn't look very pretty, but it worked so well I kept on using it and modifying it along the way, the biggest problem with banjo's is the tape drag/resistance which is mainly from mud too thick, but you'd be surprised how minor differences to the design can make quite a difference, unlike the bazooka this contraption works best if you don't lift one side of the wheel off on the flats. I altered the tape holder so it's free spinning and the sides of the tape don't touch the banjo, I bent the mud flow adjustment plate so there's less friction on the tape as it comes out, Until recently I had a rotating nylon drum inside it so the tape would run under that instead of the mud flow adjuster, but I haven't tried it again yet to see if it was making much difference. The cutter works good as long as there's no slack in the tape.


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## cazna

Sounds like you got some serious kiwi ingenuity going on there :thumbup:


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Sounds like you got some serious kiwi ingenuity going on there :thumbup:


Yeah, it's called shed therapy...keeps me sane(ish).
Here's a photo of the beast, but please don't turn this thread into a bazooka v banjo.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> Yeah, it's called shed therapy...keeps me sane(ish).
> Here's a photo of the beast, but please don't turn this thread into a bazooka v banjo.


 Man THATS amazing !!!! Looking at that is almost like looking at **** videos. !!!!!!!!!

I promise you,, if you spend 1/2 the time, looking at your zooka, you'll be smoking us in no time. :thumbup:

I use a bazooka AND a banjo, so I wouldn't pit one again the other, ever !!!


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## Kiwiman

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Man THATS amazing !!!! Looking at that is almost like looking at **** videos. !!!!!!!!!
> 
> I promise you,, if you spend 1/2 the time, looking at your zooka, you'll be smoking us in no time. :thumbup:
> 
> I use a bazooka AND a banjo, so I wouldn't pit one again the other, ever !!!


 Only difference between the two is it's harder to make a bong out of a banjo :brows:.


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## 1wallboardsman

betterdrywall said:


> For a top quality tape finish,, The banjo is far superior to the bazooka, In the hands of an experienced taper,, (not a go and blow fly by night) And a Builder or GC or Home owner willing to pay extra for quality,, The Banjo is Outstanding, and I feel that that style and quality and knowledge/skill of the taping methods using a banjo is long gone and left for only a few that may never beable to pass the training along,, due to the Poor pay from GC's and builders. ,, it's a slop and go get r done and hope you make 2 cents world these days.


Right.... it must have been the superior service from the "slopbox" that prompted the Ames brothers to invent the bazooka in the first place.

jdl


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## Capt-sheetrock

1wallboardsman said:


> Right.... it must have been the superior service from the "slopbox" that prompted the Ames brothers to invent the bazooka in the first place.
> 
> jdl


Actully, I think the slop-box caused the creation of the super-taper,,
And the banjo caused the invention of the bazooka.

Could just be all the home-brew tho, and I may be completely confused.:thumbsup:


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## Mudstar

Kiwiman said:


> Yeah, it's called shed therapy...keeps me sane(ish).
> Here's a photo of the beast, but please don't turn this thread into a bazooka v banjo.


we all know what the outcome would be anyways 

:thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman

Saul_Surfaces said:


> do you have a picture of your banjo Kiwi? I pretty much abandoned my banjo when I got my first auto taper, but it would be nice to perk up my banjo for small jobs.


 Saul - Check out this guy using a Homax banjo


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## 2buckcanuck

i know what it is,there's a pin to the right of the filling valve (looking from the back).when your tube runs out of mud it pops up,time to fill,fill up your tube,NOW if that pin is still up,your tube (bazooka) will run dry tapes for awhile .push that pin IN !!!! someone on here may know what the things called but i dont ,tape tec bazooka's do this all the time,every time i fill my tube i make sure that pin is sticking down
I'm new here today but I will make a instructional video on how to use a bazooka ,start a 16,000 sq ft house tomorrow,can i post it on here,will a mod let me know if that's ok


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## 1wallboardsman

cazna said:


> This is a great dvd kiwiman, if yours is a standard bazooka.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Video-instructi...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f00259920


I made that DVD, and it also can come with a more complete repair kit for the same price as the TapeTech head kit.

jdl


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## 1wallboardsman

drywallmike08 said:


> hey who needs a damn tube any how if your not use to it and dont have time to practice do it the way i do string by hand faster than all the border jumpers i never use a tube only cause i can hand string faster wich sounds dumb but it works for me !


I've heard this for 37 years, still waiting to see it 1 time.

jdl


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## 1wallboardsman

Kiwiman said:


> Oooooh! Is that what it's suposed to do. Is that wee roller supposed to jamb the the main wheel when it rolls backward? I can see how I can fix that myself if thats the case, I can put a shim in behind the block that the creaser wheel arm sits on so it will close the gap between the wheel and the roller...Am I on the right track?


It looks like an old Ames gun, the part is called a roll back brake and as deep as it is cut, you will probably need to replace it. Very important to check out the block that it sits on too, called the anvil, it will wear along with the roll back brake.

Goldblatt has the best replacement for this, it is stainless steel and will last at least double what TapeTech will want double for. Your drain chain is shot also, and Goldblatt also has that replacement for about half price.

jdl


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## Muddauber

1wallboardsman said:


> I've heard this for 37 years, still waiting to see it 1 time.
> 
> jdl



:thumbsup: Me too!


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## 1wallboardsman

betterdrywall said:


> For a top quality tape finish,, The banjo is far superior to the bazooka, In the hands of an experienced taper,, (not a go and blow fly by night) And a Builder or GC or Home owner willing to pay extra for quality,, The Banjo is Outstanding, and I feel that that style and quality and knowledge/skill of the taping methods using a banjo is long gone and left for only a few that may never beable to pass the training along,, due to the Poor pay from GC's and builders. ,, it's a slop and go get r done and hope you make 2 cents world these days.


It is amazing that you can still get this sort of comedic entertainment in the 21st century.

jdl


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## Tim0282

And free!! :blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock

1wallboardsman said:


> It is amazing that you can still get this sort of comedic entertainment in the 21st century.
> 
> jdl


I beleve that he said a better QUALITY finish. Not that it was faster. I understand you disagree, but have you figured out how to make your bazooka put out more or less mud, as the joint requires??? a banjo will, a bazokka will not. SO how can a bazokka lay down a BETTER tape coat than a bazooka??? Simple, it can not. I use em both,,,,,,do you???


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## Capt-sheetrock

My dern computer won't let me edit,,, must be my misunderstanding of all things electronic. In the above post, I need to edit

A bazooka can not regulte the amount of mud like a banjo will. Pardon my ignorance of the internet world.


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