# Bathroom Ceiling Repair Advice



## KonstConst (Jul 25, 2017)

Hi all first time poster here.

I was going back and forth whether to post here in general or the plaster section. Anyways, we are general contractors, small jobs we will do some taping and drywall repairs. 

So, had a customer ask us to fix a plaster ceiling, It had a leak over the years dripping down from the attic, hence the damage that occurred. looks like the plaster separated from the base. Oh, and this house was built in 1950. 
So, we cleaned up all the loose plaster, and then I told my guy let's stop and ask the question as this could wait till we got proper advice, as we had work in other parts of the house. 

I have attached pics of the ceiling. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pk8umdz1c0qxoji/IMG_20170725_130421765_HDR[1]?dl=0


https://www.dropbox.com/s/oozdtmpyscbseyn/IMG_20170725_130430828[1]?dl=0


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

So, what is the question?


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## KonstConst (Jul 25, 2017)

what would the pros use to patch it? Plaster? Joint Comp? 

I understand Durabond and Easy sand should not be used for skim coating.

keep in mind this is in a bathroom


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

Well, I'm just a drywall guy that dabbles in plaster a bit, so my advice is worth what you are paying for it!
:jester: You really want to hear from Mr. Brightstar or Endo Alley!

I would make sure the area has been wiped, then paint the brown coat with Plaster Weld. What you use for the white coat will depend upon what is available in your area. Possibly you can still get lime & gauging plaster (like the original plaster) in your area. Another good choice would be USG Diamond Veneer Finish Plaster (it will give you a harder finish than original). The Durabond or Easy Sand option is also a fine option. They will both be softer than plaster, but harder than joint compound.

The easiest would be to do a fill coat with Durabond, then skim with joint compound. That's a fine approach that is probably a better fit for your self-described skill set.


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## KonstConst (Jul 25, 2017)

Thanks whimpy, do those guys read this forum or just stay in the plaster forum?


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

I have not seen Mr Brightstar around in quite a while, but Endo Alley is on pretty often.
I have this same repair coming up next week! :yes:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Durabond and topping . 


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## Cletus (Jan 15, 2017)

i would lay some 36" fibafuse over the durabond..then AP over the top


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Cletus said:


> i would lay some 36" fibafuse over the durabond..then AP over the top




That would help getting the base coat flat with little effort. 


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## KonstConst (Jul 25, 2017)

Thanks Brightstar...for topping you mean joint compound?

Cletus AP = ??? All purpose Joint compound?


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## Cletus (Jan 15, 2017)

KonstConst said:


> Thanks Brightstar...for topping you mean joint compound?
> 
> Cletus AP = ??? All purpose Joint compound?


yep:thumbsup:


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

All purpose is for homeowners. Pro's use taping for setting tape and Topping for finishing.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

KonstConst said:


> Thanks Brightstar...for topping you mean joint compound?
> 
> 
> 
> Cletus AP = ??? All purpose Joint compound?




Yes, Whatever is the easiest to sand for top coat. 


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## KonstConst (Jul 25, 2017)

you guys wouldnt use bonding agent with Durabond would you? I don't see it recommended on the Durabond bag, well I should say does not mention it as being compatibe


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## Cletus (Jan 15, 2017)

MrWillys said:


> All purpose is for homeowners. Pro's use taping for setting tape and Topping for finishing.


Well, I guess every taper in the southeast is a homeowner...I have never seen a bucket of topping!...and if you know anything about production drywall...you would know a soft mud is not what you need with power sanders...but what do i know, im just a homeowner!


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Cletus said:


> Well, I guess every taper in the southeast is a homeowner...I have never seen a bucket of topping!...and if you know anything about production drywall...you would know a soft mud is not what you need with power sanders...but what do i know, im just a homeowner!


No worries, we've always used taping and topping here in the West. Taping mud was powder when i was young until the late 80's. We finish with USG Plus 3 or Westpac green or black dot. Most sanding was done by hand and a majority of our work was level 5 in Hospitals. I've only Seen AP at Home Depot.


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

Cletus said:


> i would lay some 36" fibafuse over the durabond..then AP over the top


That sounds like a good fix. If you wish to coat with plaster, Structolite might not be bad to fill in a heavy area. Use a bonding agent. Whatever you use, it might not be a bad idea to use a straight edge to screed the base coat of mud.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Your concentrating on the wrong thing, Use some hot mud and add some pva glue to it and a little multi purpose for building it up, Use fibafuse to hold it all together and then some multi purpose to finish and sand but what really matters is stopping any more moisture so really the paints the important part, Get that but right, Good sealer and top coats .


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

I guess we just assumed that the roof leak was fixed. That should be the number one issue.


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

Yeah Endo, that's my first question to the GC/homeowner when I'm asked to repair water damage, ("was the leak fixed?")!
:yes:


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

Wimpy65 said:


> Yeah Endo, that's my first question to the GC/homeowner when I'm asked to repair water damage, ("was the leak fixed?")!
> :yes:


Great point. Take nothing for granted.


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