# Tear Away Bead



## MudMonkey (Jun 9, 2009)

So I'm rather new to commercial and am currently doing a swimming pool and rec center. They want the tear away around the windows. Never used it before and was wondering if i coat onto the lip or below it on the trimtex side. I think it's onto the lip so i get a fill.


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Ride the lip. Don't forget to use spray adhesive and staple them on. I first coat with confil to get the strongest bond then two more to finish. Good luck, sounds like a lot of sqf!


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## MudMonkey (Jun 9, 2009)

it's only 14k board. Mostly stand ups too..and they used this 5/8 tough rock aqua board..it's messed up..one sheet must weight the same as 3 regular sheets. They had to cut it with a skill saw lol. I stapled them and used 90 for firts coat...same way i do arches. Glad to know I was right lol The nice thing is i got 20k of 9 foot office out of it at a great rate.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I've never found the spray adhesive to be worth it, personally.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I've used both spray contact cement and just staples , if I have a lot of bead to install like last summer almost 4 cases i like the adhesive it is fast and i find that it lays way nicer , nice and flat , don't have to tap in those staples that may not go in all the way.. sometimes I even run tape just on the outside of the lip so that it is recessed , usually one more coat over that and wala perfect and it comes out so nice . If i do staple I always use 9/16" staples nothing shorter because they seem to work out before you can get it coated really sucks.....


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

spray contact cement a tape just like silverstilts suggests, works perf........... !


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I may have to try it, give it a second shot....


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Spray adhesive has become indespensible, especially as framers think we wish trims on theses days. All too often ther is nothing to staple/nail to, re: most os splay corners, furdowns, etc. Be sure and spray both surfaces and you should be fine.


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## eastex1963 (Nov 6, 2008)

And the slight buzz you get from using it! LOL.


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## Stormy_Ny (Jun 13, 2009)

silverstilts said:


> I've used both spray contact cement and just staples , if I have a lot of bead to install like last summer almost 4 cases i like the adhesive it is fast and i find that it lays way nicer , nice and flat , don't have to tap in those staples that may not go in all the way.. sometimes I even run tape just on the outside of the lip so that it is recessed , usually one more coat over that and wala perfect and it comes out so nice . If i do staple I always use 9/16" staples nothing shorter because they seem to work out before you can get it coated really sucks.....



Sweet tip with the tape ..... Tried it today on a set of windows, see how she dries. You are using Durabond to embed the tape right ?

Durabond and tape ...... You never know if it is going to suck it in or bulge it out.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I've always just stapled and taped them on. I'll try next shot. Thanks guys


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Stormy_Ny said:


> Sweet tip with the tape ..... Tried it today on a set of windows, see how she dries. You are using Durabond to embed the tape right ?
> 
> Durabond and tape ...... You never know if it is going to suck it in or bulge it out.


 No I do not use durabond , I use all purpose mud , If you having problems with it bulging then use some spray adhesive and make sure it sets some dry to the touch before placing the L-bead in place otherwise it wont bond... that's the whole idea by using contact adhesive , it lays flat and will not bulge...


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Durabond is for leveling floors not for strength like your thinking Stormy and is useless to a taper as far as I'm concerned. The tape takes care of 2 things already in this situation. Do I have to say anymore.


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## Durabond-Don (Jul 11, 2009)

Try this.

In between the staples, take the corner of your knife and squeeze mud under the tear away, then wipe tight. Putting mud under the bead acts as a glue. Then mud right over as usual.

Sometimes it is bulged so bad that putting mud under, dont help. In these cases, tape it or add more staples (or both). But 90% of the time, putting mud under the plastic bead, helps allot. It also strengthens it.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Durabond-Don said:


> Try this.
> 
> In between the staples, take the corner of your knife and squeeze mud under the tear away, then wipe tight. Putting mud under the bead acts as a glue. Then mud right over as usual.
> 
> Sometimes it is bulged so bad that putting mud under, dont help. In these cases, tape it or add more staples (or both). But 90% of the time, putting mud under the plastic bead, helps allot. It also strengthens it.


3M adhesive ( contact cement ) you will not be wasting your time with the bead bubbling again..... a can will go a long ways and avoid the headaches.... then tape if you like it will come out perfect and you wont be beating in staples ....I am afraid trying to squeeze mud behind the bead would be time consuming and a mess not to mention loosening the staples..


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## Durabond-Don (Jul 11, 2009)

silverstilts said:


> 3M adhesive ( contact cement ) you will not be wasting your time with the bead bubbling again..... a can will go a long ways and avoid the headaches.... then tape if you like it will come out perfect and you wont be beating in staples ....I am afraid trying to squeeze mud behind the bead would be time consuming and a mess not to mention loosening the staples..




Understand that I am a finisher, not a hanger (anymore). When I get to tear-away bead it is already installed. So I don't have the option to glue.

Placing mud underneath the bead is a quick fix to solve the problem of it being loose. And it dont take that much time. 

I dont loosen any staples because I dont get that close to them.

I was merely offering a quick solution which works well for me.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Durabond-Don said:


> Understand that I am a finisher, not a hanger (anymore). When I get to tear-away bead it is already installed. So I don't have the option to glue.
> 
> Placing mud underneath the bead is a quick fix to solve the problem of it being loose. And it dont take that much time.
> 
> ...


 Not enough staples .. I don't know what protocol is there but us finish guys install our own , that way it is done right... kinda like the hangers hanging all the bead they usually don't give a **** and have no idea how to do it properly..... rip it off and back charge them or at least threaten the GC who is responsible to pay you to install it....


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## Durabond-Don (Jul 11, 2009)

silverstilts said:


> Not enough staples .. I don't know what protocol is there but us finish guys install our own , that way it is done right... kinda like the hangers hanging all the bead they usually don't give a **** and have no idea how to do it properly..... rip it off and back charge them or at least threaten the GC who is responsible to pay you to install it....




I'm a union finisher. Carpenters install tear away, and regular bead. We install flex bead and no-coat. I'd say 50% use plenty of staples, but the rest don't. They get bitched at for using too many staples or taking too much time, so they rush through it. It really depends on the carpenter foreman on the job. I'd say 50% care about quality, the other 1/2 only care about speed. When I am working for the good foreman, I can offer suggestions to the hangers.

I usually carry a staple gun around with me. But it's time consuming to keep stapling. So in them cases I throw mud behind it. 

Try the mud behind the bead sometime, it works well. Trust an old finisher. :thumbsup:


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I am an old finisher... 35 years started out when i was 16 going to hit 51 next month **** if i last another 15 I will have 50 years into it but hope to retire in 10 and let the kids carry on,,, when i was lazy not using enough staples and there was a lot of lose bead i would just run tape over it it was fast and worked good now i still tape the bead on only because it finishes out way nicer and not only that ever start to tear off the strip and the damn bead breaks loose , got tired of that..... whatever works I say do it,,,


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## Durabond-Don (Jul 11, 2009)

I'm with ya bud. You got a few more years in than me. Everybody does things different. It dont mean one way is wrong and the other is right. It's what we are used to and what has worked well for us. As long as we get the same desired effect, let's agree to be different. 

Whatever works is correct. And yes I have had the bead tear when pulling the strip. But putting mud underneath or in your case, taping it helps prevent that.

I'll buy ya a beer when we hang this up.


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## Buttjoint (Mar 19, 2012)

Whitey97 said:


> I've always just stapled and taped them on. I'll try next shot. Thanks guys


 Make sure before u stick it on the wall its a little tackie , not to wet or it wont stick , also watch what u spray , I have seen some guys get that stuff all over metal and glass .


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## justadrywallguy (Sep 10, 2010)

MudMonkey said:


> it's only 14k board. Mostly stand ups too..and they used this 5/8 tough rock aqua board..it's messed up..one sheet must weight the same as 3 regular sheets. They had to cut it with a skill saw lol. I stapled them and used 90 for firts coat...same way i do arches. Glad to know I was right lol The nice thing is i got 20k of 9 foot office out of it at a great rate.


 Your right Aqua rock SUUCCKKS it!!


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