# hanging door hinges on bullnose



## bandito (Jun 24, 2008)

Hi,

I have an old house that and some doors need new frames and all. Trying to rip everything apart and rebuild with wood doesn't seem to be as good as rebuilding with drywall in my opinion. What I had in mind was to straighten and square door frames with drywall and then where the trim goes put a 4" strip of drywall. L-bead wall side of the trim and bull nose the door side of the trim. Use a regular door stop over finished drywall where doorstop goes. Now has anyone ever tried routing vinyl bull nose beads so the hinge can be recessed? seams to me 1/8" should cause any problems?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)




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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

umm... 
________
LIVE SEX


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## bandito (Jun 24, 2008)

Did I get everyone confused?


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Not confused , just wonder why you would use drywall and bead for a door jamb??? Just makes ya wonder thats all...


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

taper71 said:


> Not confused , just wonder why you would use drywall and bead for a door jamb??? Just makes ya wonder thats all...


Makes you wonder if MDF has gone up in price a WHOLE bunch?:blink:


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## bandito (Jun 24, 2008)

Because I want to use drywall and not MDF. Don't like MDF or wood trim for that matter as I stated in the original post.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

you want to use drywall like door casing?
________
Viktorya


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

<---shamelessly wanting 100th post now :thumbup:
________
Roll a joint


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

bandito said:


> Because I want to use drywall and not MDF. Don't like MDF or wood trim for that matter as I stated in the original post.


I'm sorry for my sarcasm then, and I'll give you my opinion, which isn't worth a hill of beans.

Drywall isn't sturdy enough for door mounting. While your fasteners may be attached to wood, they still bed in drywall, which isn't firm enough for the application. I've never heard of anyone routering vinyl bead, and vinyl is one of the least sturdy corner trims when you introduce movement, which will be a given in locations with doors. sure, you could glue it on, then staple it, then use hot mud with glue in it to increase its stability, but it strikes me that while a creative endeavor, you'll wind up with issues in the not-so-distant future.

I don't like mdf either, but it's cheap, and you could achieve the same look with minimal effort and be assured that it would hold up better. 

If I understand you, you're going to try and mount hinges directly to the drywall? The torque from the door will compress the sheetrock, and in short order the hinges will become loose. Probably not as much of an issue with the stops. 

I like the fact that you're thinking outside of the box, but I don't feel that you'd be doing yourself any favors with this application.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> I'm sorry for my sarcasm then, and I'll give you my opinion, which isn't worth a hill of beans.
> 
> Drywall isn't sturdy enough for door mounting. While your fasteners may be attached to wood, they still bed in drywall, which isn't firm enough for the application. I've never heard of anyone routering vinyl bead, and vinyl is one of the least sturdy corner trims when you introduce movement, which will be a given in locations with doors. sure, you could glue it on, then staple it, then use hot mud with glue in it to increase its stability, but it strikes me that while a creative endeavor, you'll wind up with issues in the not-so-distant future.
> 
> ...


^^^ yes what he said exactly !! ^^^
________
Nexium settlement


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

man, i'm going to get ripped here bandito, but here is an idea.

jamb out your r/o's with 1x pine or poplar to the slabs your wanting to use...I would personally use step a bull...bed with durabond...hang door/mark for hinges and cut them out where you want them...pull pins and put on the jamb side hinges...mask off and then skim over the hinge so they will be flushed in..if you do it right, the hinge swing will be past the bull so you wont be cutting the radius...only the leg

paint/finish as needed then pull tape and put door on...

I would use wood behind hinge side at least...that way there is something solid behind hinges...you could use drywall, but like the others have said, you'll be doing repairs sooner than wanted...you can do stops easier that way too...since your jamb is wood to attach them to

I have done bypass closet doors this way....in a sense, same thing...just a couple hinges instead of a track

you got to think outside the box sometimes, and I think it could look cool/different


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> man, i'm going to get ripped here bandito, but here is an idea.
> 
> jamb out your r/o's with 1x pine or poplar to the slabs your wanting to use...I would personally use step a bull...bed with durabond...hang door/mark for hinges and cut them out where you want them...pull pins and put on the jamb side hinges...mask off and then skim over the hinge so they will be flushed in..if you do it right, the hinge swing will be past the bull so you wont be cutting the radius...only the leg
> 
> ...


I'm certainly not going to do any ripping on you Bill, in fact, I like the way you're thinking about it. I think as long as a wood jamb is installed, then drywall trim would be b!tchin'. you could use j-metal (or L-bull for that matter) bull at the door jamb reveal and L-metal at the wall. The wood jamb could be sanded and painted using cheap pine and one would never know the difference. heck, you could even texture the jamb if you were so inclined. I was merely horrified at the notion of hinges on sheetrock.:yes:


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

If there is no door I could see it, but if there is a door then well drywall and bead just wont work for very long without either cracking or the bead just separating itself from the drywall.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

actually,I agree with bill from indy,why ???? b/c I have done it before,but with 90 bead,the hinge part is easy,it's where the door knob/striker area that was the problem area,where it suffered damage down the road.If using bull-nose (vinyl),I would pack a ton of mud behind it,and then nail or screw the crap out of it,and skip the durabond too,imo
use your Imagination,I think it could look cool:yes:


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> actually,I agree with bill from indy,why ???? b/c I have done it before,but with 90 bead,the hinge part is easy,it's where the door knob/striker area that was the problem area,where it suffered damage down the road.If using bull-nose (vinyl),I would pack a ton of mud behind it,and then nail or screw the crap out of it,and skip the durabond too,imo
> use your Imagination,I think it could look cool:yes:


hmm...didnt think about the striker
it could still be done though...the dutout in the striker would/could be in the leg part as well...i said durabond only because i assumed he wanted painted jambs


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