# Current Project



## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

As promised, here are a few videos of my current job mudded using my "new to me" auto tools. As I had mentioned, most of my jobs are all small, basements and bathrooms. My company does all jobs start to finish. But I like to do the best work I possibly can so thats why I am here to learn! :thumbup: This job was a COMPLETE gut, replumb, rewire, reframe (new layout) etc etc. FUN! 

Some areas I still did by hand, as it was easier. The 2nd floor screws were spotted by hand, the mainfloor was done with nail spotters.

Have at it guys, don't rip me apart too much! 90% was hung by me and my dad helped with the rest. All of it is mudded and sanded by me though. These videos are before sanding, although I did sand between the 1st and 2nd coat quick to get rid of "bits" I call hitchhikers!

Gutted house:









Hanging:













Finishing:











scott


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

we taught you well ,when do we get paid


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

hey cazna,check out scott w's videos ,he's a newbie and he don't have grey lines running all through his work like you do:jester:


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Come on down and I'll buy you some beers (at the "gentlemans club" of course!). :thumbsup:

It seemed like the house of never ending corners!

Seriously, rip it apart, that's the only way I will get better. 

I'll have the mainfloor sanded tomorrow and the upstairs is already primed. Ceilings on the 2nd floor get painted tomorrow, and hopefully prime the mainfloor.

Now if I could just master them fkin angle heads!

scott


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

if i was to pick apart some thing it would be some of your butts on your ceiling look way too large,but i will bet you put a straight edge on them ,plus looks like older house.you dont half to go that wide on the straight flex either,6" maximum.other than that it will pass.walk around and touch into things if you think it looks to hard to sand,will take you 10 minutes to do that,and just watch when you sand the nail spotted screws,don't burr up the rock,your runs are neater than ours,box work looks good too


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I'd say you did not a bad job first time around with the new tools. 

Like 2buck said might be a bit to much mud in places but you will learn that when coming to the sanding the screws on the 2nd floor.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> hey cazna,check out scott w's videos ,he's a newbie and he don't have grey lines running all through his work like you do:jester:


Looks Good, you did well scott, same as 2buck and mudstar, looks like a bit of over kill on the mud in some areas but hey still a fair size job to get through, lots of angles and beads so good on you and cheers for posting, great to see someone elses work, i only get to see my own.

But no doors or frames on???? lucky you, ours are always on, and i had little to no grey lines either mr 2buck once i 12 boxed it :thumbup: thankyou very much. :thumbsup:


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

I think you did a great job of steering your box, being a newbie. Alot of the new guys will have the box going crooked all the way down the joints looking like they were boxing drunk,lol. It seems the most work went into sanding angle edges, but with more time you will make that nothing but easier.

Good Job, Bill


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> if i was to pick apart some thing it would be some of your butts on your ceiling look way too large,but i will bet you put a straight edge on them ,plus looks like older house.you dont half to go that wide on the straight flex either,6" maximum.other than that it will pass.walk around and touch into things if you think it looks to hard to sand,will take you 10 minutes to do that,and just watch when you sand the nail spotted screws,don't burr up the rock,your runs are neater than ours,box work looks good too


The butts are pretty large, but that room gets a ton of light shining in so I was worried about seeing them. I boxed with a 12 either side then troweled on a very thing layer. I sanded them yesterday and they turned out NICE! :thumbup: Everything is a smooth finish, no texture.

The straight flex was a little tricky. These walls weren't touched and being old were out. I shot the laser around the rooms to set the lower ones to make sure they were level. Again I has to cheat these a bit so there was a bit of filling.

thanks...scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I'd say you did not a bad job first time around with the new tools.
> 
> Like 2buck said might be a bit to much mud in places but you will learn that when coming to the sanding the screws on the 2nd floor.


Actually it is hard to see from the video, but they were very easy to sand. Just a couple passes. When I applied it, I basically scraped it right back off, so there is little build up.

thanks...scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

cazna said:


> Looks Good, you did well scott,
> 
> But no doors or frames on???? lucky you, ours are always on, and i had little to no grey lines either mr 2buck once i 12 boxed it :thumbup: thankyou very much. :thumbsup:


Like I said, I do all my jobs start to finish, so I am good at planning things out. I would hate coming in as a sub and dealing with other contractors work. Everyone wants in and out as quick as possible, they don't care who is next. With me... I am ALWAYS next! :blink: So I make sure things flow well.

thanks...scott


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## ColumbiaTechSupport (Aug 13, 2010)

Nice work Scott:thumbsup:


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

proficient Mudder said:


> I think you did a great job of steering your box, being a newbie. Alot of the new guys will have the box going crooked all the way down the joints looking like they were boxing drunk,lol. It seems the most work went into sanding angle edges, but with more time you will make that nothing but easier.
> 
> Good Job, Bill


Steering the boxes on the livingroom ceiling was tougher. They are a little crooked. I am a little ocd, so I try to make things look nice. Still a ways to go I know, but I am getting there.

Yes the angles I fought with a bit, and eventually went back to the flushers. In time I am sure I will learn. I want to go through columbias videos on how to setup the heads. Maybe that is the issue.

thanks...scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I just threw up a few more videos of the start of the project. If you refer to the first post.

All interior walls were removed and reframed. Beams were added, all 2nd floor ceiling joists were changed out with 2x6 lumber etc etc.

Enjoy...scott


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Nice one scott, i can see a ton of work when into this.
Interesting to see you have lined the walls with a plastic type wrap before hanging??? is that a breathable type wrap?? if its just plastic then here for us thats bad news, especailly in the bathrooms as the damp gets trapped and makes the board go all mouldy and fail. I know of a hotel lids that always fail with plastic behind the board and needs constant patching, it never ends.

Im sure its a breathable type it just looks shiny like plastic, our building wrap is on the outside of the studs not inside but as this is a re fit it may not have any or dont you do it that way????
I see you have even taped around the electrical fittings and windows as well??? is that a draft stop?? we now shoot it full of expanding foam.

And dam you guys go crazy with the screws, double screws everywhere, if i got that here i would almost say its a full skim but seeing your finishing clip it still looks good. See my High Shoulders tread, we dont screw the centres of the sheets and the lids only get one row through the centre but as you will see the glue lumps bow the crap out of the walls, Im hopefully going to build my family to be in 6 weeks a new home in a few years so i think i will be adding more screws as you guys do.

If that was a critical light area as i have been getting with low sun setting over the sea and the house on a hill i would prob skim it.

Thanks man for posting, :thumbsup: I have really enjoyed this thread, It would be great if more people posted pics and clips on DWT, makes it more interesting.

Hey 2buck post some pics of your big profile page house on ricks bragging rights thread if you get a chance, i would love to see that. :yes:


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## PrairrieDogExpress (Jan 29, 2010)

cazna said:


> Nice one scott, i can see a ton of work when into this.
> Interesting to see you have lined the walls with a plastic type wrap before hanging??? is that a breathable type wrap?? if its just plastic then here for us thats bad news, especailly in the bathrooms as the damp gets trapped and makes the board go all mouldy and fail. I know of a hotel lids that always fail with plastic behind the board and needs constant patching, it never ends.
> 
> Im sure its a breathable type it just looks shiny like plastic, our building wrap is on the outside of the studs not inside but as this is a re fit it may not have any or dont you do it that way????
> ...


Cazna,

Here you have to have poly (plastic) around all the exterior walls. If you don't you cannot board. This is also why we can only glue interior walls. you also have a breathable membrane around the outside of the house.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> Cazna,
> 
> Here you have to have poly (plastic) around all the exterior walls. If you don't you cannot board. This is also why we can only glue interior walls. you also have a breathable membrane around the outside of the house.


Yeah??? why you have to plastic it for???? we have one way building wrap on outside of studs only, This lets the mosture out but not in, if you plastic it then your not letting it breath, hence damp and mould problems.
Thats amazing how things are so different in different countrys. Must work for you and not cause problems though or you wouldnt be doin it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here you go cazna,not to invade your thread scott,took me 8 days to put all the bead on in this house,will post the finish picks in a week or 2,will post under my own thread when i do


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here's some more,I'm the fat one in the one pic,only half the house shown here


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Wow wee, Dam thats like drywall [email protected]#n that is :notworthy: what a mission of a job.


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## PrairrieDogExpress (Jan 29, 2010)

wow that does not look like fun at all. Is it square corners at least?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

90 % bull nose ,3 different types ,and that flat stock (45 degree) ran on top and bottom of cat walk, all windows and openings done in bull nose,90 degree bead only used where the ceilings got sprayed


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Hope the taping gods are on your side and you used proroc yellow on the beads 2buck

:rockon:


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> Cazna,
> 
> Here you have to have poly (plastic) around all the exterior walls. If you don't you cannot board. This is also why we can only glue interior walls. you also have a breathable membrane around the outside of the house.


Exactly. This house is actually spray foamed, which shouldn't require the poly. BUT my city was a PITA and would not pass the insulation inspection until I did, even with a stamped letter from an engineer saying that the foam exceeds the perm rating of the poly. 

scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

cazna said:


> And dam you guys go crazy with the screws, double screws everywhere, if i got that here i would almost say its a full skim but seeing your finishing clip it still looks good. See my High Shoulders tread, we dont screw the centres of the sheets and the lids only get one row through the centre but as you will see the glue lumps bow the crap out of the walls, Im hopefully going to build my family to be in 6 weeks a new home in a few years so i think i will be adding more screws as you guys do.


I don't know what most guys do, but I always double screw my ceilings and outside (insulated) walls. I have yet to be called back for any screw pops.

Is it a PITA, of course. But not as bad as coming back to repair a pop after it is painted. :thumbsup:

scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> here you go cazna,not to invade your thread scott,took me 8 days to put all the bead on in this house,will post the finish picks in a week or 2,will post under my own thread when i do


Not a problem at all.

HOLY ST! Thats NICE! I feel embarrased to post my job now! 

Nice work!

scott


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cgc green,with lots,and lots of staples,way too many staples,House in my small town of 2,000 so had to ,use mud when I get into the fancy cuts ,plus he's a G.C. and wanted it done that way,every time I see him I ask "anything crack yet" 2 years and counting and she's still holding.......
wish I knew of that topping glue at the time,like the pro rock mud,but I went with that old standard of cgc green.might get some finish pics this weekend of his house,doing some work for him right now so......


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> Exactly. This house is actually spray foamed, which shouldn't require the poly. BUT my city was a PITA and would not pass the insulation inspection until I did, even with a stamped letter from an engineer saying that the foam exceeds the perm rating of the poly.
> 
> scott


what !!!! I would of raised hell,,,,,our communist civil servants at work.I think they use our hard earned money,roll some thing in it,then smoke it


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Scott_w said:


> Exactly. This house is actually spray foamed, which shouldn't require the poly. BUT my city was a PITA and would not pass the insulation inspection until I did, even with a stamped letter from an engineer saying that the foam exceeds the perm rating of the poly.
> 
> scott



That has newbe written all over it. When they say jump, you jump 

OBC setting the standard for the best built home in the world. 

I think that might make us the top tades in the world too



JS


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> That has newbe written all over it. When they say jump, you jump
> 
> OBC setting the standard for the best built home in the world.
> 
> ...


I'm not a newbie, sorry to bust your bubble. I may be new to the auto drywall tools, but far from new to the business (renovations).

It was not just me dealing with the inspector and giving in. This went on for about a week dealing with them directly. My city has taken the stance that THEY want poly, no way around it. The spray foam company warned me. Every city around me is fine without.

Do I agree with it? Hell no, but I can't argue for weeks and get no where. The home owner was the one to make the decision.

So if following the rules of my city is "jumping" as you call it, well so be it.

Seriously, there are more productive things to type than condescending comments like that.

scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> That has newbe written all over it. When they say jump, you jump
> 
> OBC setting the standard for the best built home in the world.
> 
> ...


There are probably more positive needs for the poly to be used as an air barrier, like certain chemicals in some products or just not enough barrier with some spray applications.So to take risk out from those that don't know than making it code, covers it (pun intended).

A so called newbie should never ignore "codes" as it may save a Life or at least alot of money.

Any Professional should never come on a Worldwide Site and tell someone to ignore them or act as they would be wrong. I mean at least explain your argument Mudstar.
I understand that a plastic acting as a air barrier is the topic, but what is next Fire proofing?

Bill


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

so what of fire proofing ,say the plans call for 2 hour rating but the inspector wants 4 hour rating,you going to say oh gee 4hour will be much better,I'll do that


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hi Scott or anybody else, Im just wondering what the moisture content of the timber framing needs to be before they let you line with board, Here the council building inspector comes around with his reader, hammers the pins into the framing and this tells him the moisture content and here it has to 18% or lower which i think is still to high, i have seen many jobs now where the house sits as a wet frame of a month or so in winter and has many failed moisture checks, then they just get there 18% and the builders tear into it then its plastered, painted and finished, summer comes around and warms up the house and the framing finishes drying, shrinks and twists and pulls and pops screws and cracks, hence our gluing not screwing of the board centres, if we had as many screws in the board as you guys use this would be a major disaster, the house would be full of screw pops.

I realise your job was a refit and the framing would have been bone dry but im just wondering what happens with a new house in your area????
You have to use plastic which agian holds damp which if i had not have seen your clip and someone told me thats what you do i just would not have beleived it??? Even in bathrooms???? thats just madness, you must have very good ventalation systems. So amazing what one country allows and another doesnt.

You use expanding foam for insulation, we only use it for pluging gaps around window frames, etc, we use pink batts which is a fine fibre glass type stuff in matt form at different thickness for roof spaces and walls, 100mm thick for walls and around 200mm thick for ceilings.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott_w said:


> I'm not a newbie, sorry to bust your bubble. I may be new to the auto drywall tools, but far from new to the business (renovations).
> 
> It was not just me dealing with the inspector and giving in. This went on for about a week dealing with them directly. My city has taken the stance that THEY want poly, no way around it. The spray foam company warned me. Every city around me is fine without.
> 
> ...


Scott I agree, The job I'm working on right now is one that the HO designed and spec'd. He decided to go with certain products and materials. Since he has the money and the internet, he thinks he can get WHATEVER he wants. We had a meeting last week, where he was going OVER the things he didn't like about the paint job. I reminded him that HE picked the paint, and insisted on it.

My response to him was this, " You hired ME to paint with YOUR paint, this is what you wanted, and this is what you got".

I have a real hard time acting like its my fault when HO's or GC'S decide what you have to use and THEN try to tell you it's YOUR fault when they get the results that they do.


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> so what of fire proofing ,say the plans call for 2 hour rating but the inspector wants 4 hour rating,you going to say oh gee 4hour will be much better,I'll do that


4 hour rating, now were talking pressure loads, shaft walls, e.t.c. 
Sounds like the architect needs to learn the codes before he designs the prints.

but to answer the question, if it won't pass inspection because of an architect error, than it still needs to be corrected to pass inspection with a signed accepted work change order.

Bill


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

proficient mudder
one of your quotes from a old post
"I wasn't going to say anymore, being that I just jumped aboard on this site and having respect for someone that has been in this stuff longer than me."
glad to see your feeling at home now ,and are not afraid to step on someones toes. (I like that).
Think what me and mudstar are saying is the inspector is not god,yes the inspector checks things to make sure they are done right,and how does he do this?buy consulting the OBC (Ontario building code)a set of CODES and LAWS,anything above code then the inspector should be getting the stamp.
yes there are exceptions to the rules in certain municipalities,one being insulation values .The farther north in Canada you go,the higher R factor they call for,since scott is in our neck of the woods (scott ,mudstar 1hr from your town) we know what the code is,but in scotts case the HO paid for the poly and installation I hope,so why argue any more,problem solved in his case.
but if a inspector is going to force me to do more than the code/law requires ,and it is going to cost me money,I will stand my ground,and I have before many times (fire code being one of them) 
Inspectors are like cops,they enforce the law,they don't create them


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

proficient Mudder said:


> There are probably more positive needs for the poly to be used as an air barrier, like certain chemicals in some products or just not enough barrier with some spray applications.So to take risk out from those that don't know than making it code, covers it (pun intended).
> 
> A so called newbie should never ignore "codes" as it may save a Life or at least alot of money.
> 
> ...


The reason I stated newbe is that a newbe is more likely to know what is required to someone that's been in the industry for some time because they have to learn whats required for todays OBC. If you read into what has been posted and you have experience you would understand how inspections are conducted and how they know the trades and who has done the job for a long time and who's new to the job. So with this said there more likely to be more attent to the details with someone new compared to and experienced person they recognize in the field.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna
we do it the same as you,batts of insulation,but with poly applied to the warm side of the house,fairly sure it's the north American way where there is cold winters.foam is not the norm,scotts job was a private job,so hence the home owner was willing to spend the extra coin for it.can search for a link on why we use poly if you want,but in layman's terms ,when the winds pick up in the winter and you have no poly,c,,co,,,col cold !!!! burr!!!!
we don't check for moisture,the good builders just supply heat and dehumidifiers,bad ones pay the price
what we don't do is glue the drywall on,(in Ontario)we screw it on and some nail the perimeters,We don't have transparent looking mud,and we don't have no trim installed till after the taping is done,sounds like you live in a foreign country or something cazna ,oh !!!!! hold on ,,,,, you do :jester:
but our winters do suck,if you like 1 meter (3') of snow,-30 degree Cecilius temperatures with the WIND CHILL FACTOR ,then come to Canada,we will put a hockey stick in your hands instead of a trowel.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> The reason I stated newbe is that a newbe is more likely to know what is required to someone that's been in the industry for some time because they have to learn whats required for todays OBC. If you read into what has been posted and you have experience you would understand how inspections are conducted and how they know the trades and who has done the job for a long time and who's new to the job. So with this said there more likely to be more attent to the details with someone new compared to and experanced person there recognize in the field.


agreed,but what if it's the inspector that's the newbie:whistling2:
as I stated insulation codes vary the most,some want stuff red taped,some don't,poly on spray foam is over kill,a experienced builder from Kitchener could go to st.Cathrines to build a home,I highly doubt he's going to check to see if they poly foam in their by laws,obc yes


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> cazna
> we do it the same as you,batts of insulation,but with poly applied to the warm side of the house,fairly sure it's the north American way where there is cold winters.foam is not the norm,scotts job was a private job,so hence the home owner was willing to spend the extra coin for it.can search for a link on why we use poly if you want,but in layman's terms ,when the winds pick up in the winter and you have no poly,c,,co,,,col cold !!!! burr!!!!
> we don't check for moisture,the good builders just supply heat and dehumidifiers,bad ones pay the price
> what we don't do is glue the drywall on,(in Ontario)we screw it on and some nail the perimeters,We don't have transparent looking mud,and we don't have no trim installed till after the taping is done,sounds like you live in a foreign country or something cazna ,oh !!!!! hold on ,,,,, you do :jester:
> but our winters do suck,if you like 1 meter (3') of snow,-30 degree Cecilius temperatures with the WIND CHILL FACTOR ,then come to Canada,we will put a hockey stick in your hands instead of a trowel.


 
Dam thats cold, How can a town/city function in that?? Your mud wouldnt set or dry it would freeze??? any wonder the bears decide to sleep through that carry on. The plastic you have to use must have something to do with keeping cold/damp out?

Hockey stick??? the only stick i would be reaching for is the one in my pants through holes cut in my pockets to keep my hands warm?? Even that one would prob be no good and get frightened off as well.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> agreed,but what if it's the inspector that's the newbie:whistling2:
> as I stated insulation codes vary the most,some want stuff red taped,some don't,poly on spray foam is over kill,a experienced builder from Kitchener could go to st.Cathrines to build a home,I highly doubt he's going to check to see if they poly foam in their by laws,obc yes


Pretty much my point that someone in the equation is a newbe. Also when the inspector asked for something to be done out of the ordinary which I do know from working in this industry that one or the other is not on top of there game, including the inspector as you stated in this case as well as the contractor or there would be no question on the method chosen in the case of the foam used to seal and insulate around the window which I seen done all the time with out the question if its right or wrong. The other point is anyone in the industy would not aguee the point but to do what they want only because the detail was not submited in the first place when applying for the permit to do the project at the beginning. Its a detail over looked and not specified obviously.

Not to say someone does not know what they are doing but know how it works with inspections and what it takes to have no delays


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

ahhhh!!!! yes one good point there,no detail plan sub mitted


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> proficient mudder
> one of your quotes from a old post
> "I wasn't going to say anymore, being that I just jumped aboard on this site and having respect for someone that has been in this stuff longer than me."
> glad to see your feeling at home now ,and are not afraid to step on someones toes. (I like that).
> ...


I was quoted, I do feel at home now . 

My point for really saying anything is there are ALOT of people that use these sites as a book of learning and never register to ask why things are said without detail. I do like to step up the game, with respect to get more out of tips, theories and facts instead of bashing others without hearing the reasons behind it.

Bill


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## PrairrieDogExpress (Jan 29, 2010)

cazna said:


> Dam thats cold, How can a town/city function in that?? Your mud wouldnt set or dry it would freeze??? any wonder the bears decide to sleep through that carry on. The plastic you have to use must have something to do with keeping cold/damp out?
> 
> Hockey stick??? the only stick i would be reaching for is the one in my pants through holes cut in my pockets to keep my hands warm?? Even that one would prob be no good and get frightened off as well.


we dont want our houses to breath. If they breath then you are loosing energy. Energy = $$$. By sealing the house from the inside you are keeping the heat in in winter and keeping the cool in in summer. It does not get humid enough that you have problems with mold or anything.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Pretty much my point that someone in the equation is a newbe. Also when the inspector asked for something to be done out of the ordinary which I do know from working in this industry that one or the other is not on top of there game, including the inspector as you stated in this case as well as the contractor or there would be no question on the method chosen in the case of the foam used to seal and insulate around the window which I seen done all the time with out the question if its right or wrong. The other point is anyone in the industy would not aguee the point but to do what they want only because the detail was not submited in the first place when applying for the permit to do the project at the beginning. Its a detail over looked and not specified obviously.
> 
> Not to say someone does not know what they are doing but know how it works with inspections and what it takes to have no delays


I understand what you are saying, but it was not just the inspector it was the whole permitting office I talked to. 

The plans that were submitted and stamped by the city spec'd only poly on the 2nd floor ceiling since it was blown in r50. All the other areas SPECIFICALLY stated 3" R20 spray foam, no poly. When you pick up the permit, there is a form that comes with it that says basically that if they miss (or you missed) something in the plans they can make you change it onsite (ie the inspector).

As I said earlier, the spray foam company warned me about my city not accepting it.

All my inspections went like clockwork, except for that one. Initially the inspector on site said he was fine with it, if I got him, but then called me back later that day and said the office wasn't. That started several days of back and fourth calls getting no where fast. The cheif building inspector said, if you want it to pass, put the poly. 

Sorry if I missunderstood you initial post, it struck a nerve. I have had a few bad weeks. 

scott


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> here's some more,I'm the fat one in the one pic,only half the house shown here


You're not fat, you're extremely cuddle-able. (but not by me, because I am a man and I don't cuddle with men).


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> You're not fat, you're extremely cuddle-able. (but not by me, because I am a man and I don't cuddle with men).


another girly guy 

whats this world coming too


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> another girly guy
> 
> whats this world coming too


I was trying to teach him better marketing....it's all how you spin it.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Are you still sanding this job out?

Did you make more than $1.20 / foot?


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> Are you still sanding this job out?
> 
> Did you make more than $1.20 / foot?


sorry I'll post more later. I finished a while ago, just been putting in lots of hrs trying to get the house back together.

scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Sorry had to run out for a parade with the kids! 

The total for that job materials and labor works out to about $3/ft. That is just to supply, hang and finish (from my spreadsheets). Primer and paint was extra.

I am not a full time drywall only guy (I am a full service renovation company), but I am not there to undercut anyone either. We do all projects start to finish, and so far I find people will pay a premium not to have a million people in their homes. 

Could I finish it faster and cheaper using subs? Most likely, but then I find there are always problems with the blame game. You know... the "NOT MY JOB" attitude.

I'll shoot another video this week or next. I will update you guys in this thread until the house is done. I figure we have 3-4 more weeks.

scott


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

how did the screws turn out on the main floor ,when you painted.did they pass.and you went 3 coats with the nail spotter right?????? how did you like sanding that


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I don't know if this has any relevance or not, but I feel like typing.

Inspectors are used to having things done the way the way they want them done.

Case in point...

On a recent job, the builder hadn't done much planning for a fire separation between the house and garage. There was a change in roofline above where the firewall would be, and the framing was inadequate for hanging. I got creative and was about 3/4 of the way done creating a form-to-roof fire barrier when he showed up. "Hmm, I've never seen _that _before. Let me think about this......yeah, that will work. I initially told the GC that he should run rock up the face of the truss on the interior (around 20' from the floor)."

Well, the GC was standing there and said, "That's the way I want it done then (the initial suggestion)." However, my method required only 2 sheets worth of 4x8x5/8 hung off a tall bench. The other method was 4-12footers, 2-8 footers, and an extra 4 hours of labor (now a 2 man job). 

I think one of the important things to realize about code it that it has to be met, but in a lot of cases the _method _of meeting it can vary. I'm fortunate enough to have been around our inspectors for a long time, and they usually just sign the card when they see me working.

Sorry about the babbling....it's Saturday night and my brain is still at work.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> how did the screws turn out on the main floor ,when you painted.did they pass.and you went 3 coats with the nail spotter right?????? how did you like sanding that


I went 2 coats with the 2" and one with the 3". Sanding was actually really easy. Those things don't seem to leave anything on the wall when you putting it on. Was this the wrong method?

We haven't painted the main floor yet. It is primed and looks fine. Ceilings were sanded and 2 coats of paint. They look fine. 

We should be painting it this week. I will go over the room before paint again just to see if it is a problem before or after paint. Hopefully no problem <fingers crossed>!


scott


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> I don't know if this has any relevance or not, but I feel like typing.
> 
> Inspectors are used to having things done the way the way they want them done.
> 
> ...


so true and have experienced similar situations with knowing and seeing the same inspectors on the many jobs. 

We all know who knows what it takes to complete jobs and what is required in any given situation. 

:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

what you did with the nail spotters is right,some guys like to spot 1st coat by hand in case screws are sticking out,but you were going over your own work so.......
--was just curious ,some guys think their too much sanding ,some don't,just seeing how you felt about them.
guess your our pet project now.lol:jester:
pricing another job yet


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I actually loved the nail spotters. They put very little on. On the first coat, I run it up and down to get full coverage, otherwise is would leave a void or pinhole.

I have jobs lined up until the new year right now. I only have 2 smaller ones (kitchen and basement) that will have drywall.

I do not go out looking for drywall jobs, I only do the ones that come as part of the jobs I bid on. I know I can't compete with you guys that focus on just drywall. 

The sub I have used in the past to finish asked me to hang a few houses for him, but I am not that fast at it. He likes how neat of a job I do I guess. They are new construction. I passed as I can't fit them in.

Just curious for those close to my area how $3/sqft everything supplied compares? From what I understand in my area I am quite high in price. <I know...no pricing questions!>

As always, I appreciate all your help!

Scott


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Spotters really are not that great for filling to tell you the truth and cost more then there worth in lost time. 
Know one I have known has had that great of luck with them and once you have mastered the trade you will think the same way I'm sure.

JS


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Spotters really are not that great for filling to tell you the truth and cost more then there worth in lost time.
> Know one I have known has had that great of luck with them and once you have mastered the trade you will think the same way I'm sure.
> I half agree with mudstar,they are not that great for filling,I find a lot of guys in my area only incorperate them in one of their coats.we use it for the last coat,and not all the time.Just depends on height of job,size,time we have to get job done,mood I'm in,and how sore my hand is
> speed wise you can't beet them,we use the compound tube to fill it ,instead of the pump,less walking that way when you can carry both around with you.just find the last coat on screws by hand is the most time consuming ,it's the make me look nice coat - sanding coat.plus if 1st two coats done by hand (better fill) you get more distance/mileage out of the spotter,which equals more speed.
> just my 2bucks worth


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Spotters really are not that great for filling to tell you the truth and cost more then there worth in lost time.
> Know one I have known has had that great of luck with them and once you have mastered the trade you will think the same way I'm sure.
> 
> JS


Agreed with you on that one Mudstar


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Sorry for the delay in the update. Things have been crazy getting the house together.

As for the screw problem (sinking), everything we did up until the furnace was turned on sunk (screws). Wherever there was a screw, the paint went dark while drying.

When the furnace was turned on finally (all new system/ ducts etc), that part of the job was perfectly fine, and the paint didn't darken around the screws while drying.

It wasn't a 2 coat/ 3coat, spotter/hand issue because we has a problem on both, more so on the hand finished with 2 coats. 

The heat made ALL the difference, even with texture with the eggshell paint. It was alot more even sheen.

The mainfloor is painted, but a mess of stuff everywhere. When I get it cleaned up this week I will shoot a vid.






scott


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

:thumbsup: Nice one scott, sharp clean straight lines, almost gives me a woody (I said almost) good to see, amazing gloss on the trimwork, and you didnt paint the edge/sides of the trim the same colour as the walls, Most lazy useless painters do that here and it pisses me off So great work chap:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott_w said:


> Sorry for the delay in the update. Things have been crazy getting the house together.
> 
> As for the screw problem (sinking), everything we did up until the furnace was turned on sunk (screws). Wherever there was a screw, the paint went dark while drying.
> 
> ...


 Impressive, VERY impressive.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

very nice cut in work with the paint,what did you use ? very very straight,and yes we noticed those miters on the trim with the zoom ins lol:thumbsup:,now don't forget, drywall talk gets at least 3 % credit for your job lol
Just one thing,those did not look like safety shoes scott,and I hope you were filming with your hard hat on....safety 1st
excellent work,and nice trailer and truck ,trade you:yes:


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Thanks guys! I'll get a better video when all the lighting goes in. Things are coming out very well, compared to what I had to start with!

As for the paint, I use Sherwin Williams "qualicote". It is a decent paint, at a good price point.

We still have to go through the upstairs and touch up the trim to straighten the lines between the white/ color on the walls. But it is still really good.

The client is very happy, and excited to get in. He keeps telling me I worry too much! 

2buck... those are safety shoes  If you look closely at my shadow you can make out the hardhat! :jester:

I've got a busy week ahead with tiling and trimming out the mainfloor. I'll post more soon.

I do appreciate all the help with the tools. It will take me a while but I will figure them out. Be prepared for more questions!:yes: The taper and angle heads still kick my butt!

My truck and trailer have been handy. I can pretty much build a house out of that thing!

scott


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I'd say you better put that safety railing back up too you wouldn't want the ministry labor stealing all your profits if you had any on that job.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I'd say you better put that safety railing back up too you wouldn't want the ministry labor stealing all your profits if you had any on that job.


Its down to put the new railing in. We are down to the last few things on the upper level.

scott


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