# Question for metal stud bros



## kcmudderman (Dec 22, 2014)

I've been doing drywall for 22 years. Always been residential and don't have much metal stud experience. Not around it enough to know if u guys are having this problem. I figure if u are not than its a solid conclusion. 
Seems back in the day we were always fixing nail pops. Well now screws are "popping". Thing is they are not popped. We just don't have a better word. Perfect little tab of mud on screw head sticks out.
And we've exhausted every reason, application, glue, tight, no glue,weather.etc etc etc 
Seems it always leads back to the wood. And not meaning if it was framed or hung wrong on the metal studs, or any other improper installation etc. Ever see these evil little "pops" in the metal world??? 
Thx for your time and hope everyone's busy👍


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

kcmudderman said:


> I've been doing drywall for 22 years. Always been residential and don't have much metal stud experience. Not around it enough to know if u guys are having this problem. I figure if u are not than its a solid conclusion.
> Seems back in the day we were always fixing nail pops. Well now screws are "popping". Thing is they are not popped. We just don't have a better word. Perfect little tab of mud on screw head sticks out.
> And we've exhausted every reason, application, glue, tight, no glue,weather.etc etc etc
> Seems it always leads back to the wood. And not meaning if it was framed or hung wrong on the metal studs, or any other improper installation etc. Ever see these evil little "pops" in the metal world???
> Thx for your time and hope everyone's busy👍


I only see them near a lightbox because sparkies are getting less skilled


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

For years timber battens on the ceilings were the norm, and so were screw pops. Then came steel battens and no more pops. Problem solved.


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## nodnarb (Apr 25, 2014)

Ive seen "pops" from screwing the soft side of the stud more often than the hardside, even then only with 25 ga metal. Other than that I dont know.. have you guys changed anything since this has been happening? Mud?

Edit: havent finished coffee yet, thought YOU were having the problem. No, I dont see it often. If I do its from bad screwing technique and very rare.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Screw pops are a product of movement period! Metal doesn't shrink like wood so in turn there is no movement unless foundation sucks. Nothing you can do on wood unless you glue the bejeezus out of it and then pull all the screws out after it has cured....


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Screw pops are a product of movement period! Metal doesn't shrink like wood so in turn there is no movement unless foundation sucks. Nothing you can do on wood unless you glue the bejeezus out of it and then pull all the screws out after it has cured....


^^^ What he said!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/nail_pops.html


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/nail_pops.html


Read your whole link, but the one thing they did not address is the drywall it self being moist.

I will admit that it's rare, but if you work in a hot humid area, a sheet of rock makes a good conductor of gathering moisture until it has paint applied. but odds are when this happens, almost everything in whole house pops bc wood and rock is wet

So yes,,, it's that old, how was environment maintained well doing drywall work thing. Odds are it's more like a screw striped, or a wood screw gets mixed in with fine thread screw. But dont forget to factor in what weather/environment etc was at during job. Rain for days on end can affect jobs, or concrete being poured in basement or garages will dampen the rock.

Just don't forget , yes wood draws in moisture and also expels it too,,,, and so does drywall.

just my 2 bucks worth


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Over stuffing walls with insulation will do it. Especially the blown in cellulose insulation. But another thing is lightweight mud like Plus 3. I used to use it to first coat screws. And got a lot of mud delaminating like you are referring to. Now I use straight un thinned (Hamilton) taping mud. I don't think the lightweight mud sticks well to the little bit of oil on the screw heads. I am sure regular all purpose would be fine. But that taping mud sticks pretty good. Shrinks pretty good too unfortunately. And if there is a (screw/stud) miss, you can spot the miss (after it has been pulled of course) and then gently push the paper in with the back of the knife. Not bang it in mind you. And the taping mud holds the whole mess in place till it dries. Come back and spot it on the next time around.


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## Pennhed52 (Jul 13, 2016)

Screws are popping out because of movement and shifting of earth. Could be self tapping screws were used on 25 gauge metal I'm thinking a deep dish slotted track wasn't fastened on top, and the studs were cut in to tight, therefore during movement the studs are buckling causing your screws to bust


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Pennhed52 said:


> Screws are popping out because of movement and shifting of earth. Could be self tapping screws were used on 25 gauge metal I'm thinking a deep dish slotted track wasn't fastened on top, and the studs were cut in to tight, therefore during movement the studs are buckling causing your screws to bust


Do you know the difference between self tapping and self drilling? Moore 2?


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## Pennhed52 (Jul 13, 2016)

Yes a self tapping screw fasteneds metal together commonly used on structural metal or load bering walls in the top and bottom of metal track to hold stud on layout and self drilling well it boars metal out until screw is set to desired length which is the word I should of used talking to a drywall construction veteran such as yourself


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Pennhed52 said:


> Yes a self tapping screw fasteneds metal together commonly used on structural metal or load bering walls in the top and bottom of metal track to hold stud on layout and self drilling well it boars metal out until screw is set to desired length which is the word I should of used talking to a drywall construction veteran such as yourself


This is a very common mistake made by many in the trade. Self tapping refers to a pointer as we typically call them and taps its own hole. A self drilling screw has a drill bit type tip to cut a hole prior to the treading of the screw.

Veteran is an understatement!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

We call them sharp points and self tappers here. Sharp point fine thread for light gauge and self tappers for heavier gauge.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

thefinisher said:


> We call them sharp points and self tappers here. Sharp point fine thread for light gauge and self tappers for heavier gauge.


Yep that what we call them fines for gauge and self tappers for heavy


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

And yea if you use self tappers on light gauge you could have real problems with pop outs only fines for light gauge for me


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## Iam (Oct 15, 2019)

Slotted track is supposed to have give in it. Studs should have 1/4 to 1/2 play to allow for roof load


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## Magnum Drywall (Oct 12, 2014)

Some asshole used coarse wood screws instead of fine thread screws.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

If the wrong mud is used for first coat of screws, they will pop. Never use topping or lightweight mud for first coat. All Purpose or taping compound with lots of adhesive is best for first coat over screws.


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