# flat box size choices



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

was wondering what size boxes everyone runs 8 and 10 or 10 and 12 whats the best combo


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Oh-oh. *looks around for flak jacket*


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

JustMe said:


> Oh-oh. *looks around for flak jacket*


 I hear ya,,,,,, I like a 7,8,and 10.
I think a 12" box is over-kill


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

this has been discussed a few times before.

everyone has different standards. use whatever you want. in my opinion, a 10 & 12" are all you need, anything less is... underkill.


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

8"first coat then10"second coat then a 12"for last coat.tried doing a10 and a12does not come up to an exceptable standard for my clients.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Lloydnz said:


> 8"first coat then10"second coat then a 12"for last coat.tried doing a10 and a12does not come up to an exceptable standard for my clients.


I'm wondering if 3 coating could be alright in some ways, as far as things like less REal sanding needed, fewer deficiencies to have to deal with, and a nicer job overall.

But 2buck's 'Do 10", and then do 10" again after 10 minutes, using a 4 and then 3 box setting', seems to do a nice job, if one is running 10" and then 12".


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

the 3 coat system has minimal sanding and covers any pock marks in the joints


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Problem for me is that I usually don't have enough time allowed for 3 coating. 2buck's double 10" - the 2nd one also serves to help get rid of pock marks and any hitchhiker lines, as well as a replacement for knifing the 1st main coat to correct such things - fits in with what I usually have to deal with. Leaves a nice finish for a 1st main coat, and not as much sanding needed for it, or the finish coat, either, if use the right box settings.

But I have 3 coated at times, especially with standups in places like lawyers offices with some windows.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Lloydnz said:


> 8"first coat then10"second coat then a 12"for last coat.tried doing a10 and a12does not come up to an exceptable standard for my clients.


 
:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> :thumbsup::thumbsup:


you should be reading justme's post,he's very intelligent.:yes:
and who's the midget in your display pic,is that you cazna :jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> you should be reading justme's post,he's very intelligent.:yes:
> and who's the midget in your display pic,is that you cazna :jester:


Yes thats me and 5,11 is no midget, The camara is on a window sill looking up with a 2.7 stud hieght, I like the 3 coat system, I have my reasons.:thumbsup:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

JustMe said:


> I'm wondering if 3 coating could be alright in some ways, as far as things like less REal sanding needed, fewer deficiencies to have to deal with, and a nicer job overall.
> 
> But 2buck's 'Do 10", and then do 10" again after 10 minutes, using a 4 and then 3 box setting', seems to do a nice job, if one is running 10" and then 12".



You're still walking the flats 3 times. Same amount of time involved.

The only difference is you're 2nd coating over wet mud instead of dry mud.:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> You're still walking the flats 3 times. Same amount of time involved.
> 
> The only difference is you're 2nd coating over wet mud instead of dry mud.:yes:


there is a difference system wise,and speed wise
the 1st pass just get the mud on
the 2nd pass your getting 7x distance from your box.(less trips filling box)
2nd pass shows low -high shoulders,which equals better quality 
one less rough sand between coats,the 2nd pass will be faster than you rough sanding your 10" work (3rd coat)
in a 2 day cycle your box work can be done,7,10,12 (or what ever) will take 3 days,time = $$$$$
one less tool to purchase,and maintain
one less set up to pull out boxes.(loading tools from truck,mixing etc cost time which is minus $$$$$)
finish product looks great:thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Muddauber said:


> You're still walking the flats 3 times. Same amount of time involved.
> 
> The only difference is you're 2nd coating over wet mud instead of dry mud.:yes:


Adding (and overlapping some) with what 2buck said, a few things to add to your reasoning, in no particular order, to see what you think. Some of the following may overlap a bit as well:

- The 2nd time replaces the time and effort and walking it would take to knife and correct blemishes by only boxing once the 1st time.

- I can go faster on most flats with a box the 2nd time when 1st coating than I can with a knife, especially on the longer runs.

- I can go further while 1st time boxing, because I'm using a tighter setting and applying less mud that 1st time.

- I can go further, maybe faster, while finish boxing, because the 1st main coat is a better quality.

- I don't have things like having to wipe and clean my knife blade of any mud buildup on it to slow me down. The mud stays on the wall instead, to do its job.

- A decent box runs more consistently truer than a hand held knife, so running 2nd time again soon after with a box leaves a more consistently truer 1st coat

- I don't concern myself so much with running the box a 2nd time on top of areas where the mud application messed up a bit the 1st time for some reason. The 2nd time of running it, 10 minutes after the 1st time, after the 1st coat of mud has had a chance to react to the drywall (& vice-versa), usually takes care of it well enough.

- There doesn't seem to be so many problems with things like pock marks when you run your blade tighter to the wall the 1st time - I use a 4 setting the 1st time, and 3 the 2nd, for the 10" Columbia box I use.

- Most all the mud needed is more so put on with that 1st main coating - for one reason, because when you go back and do the 2nd 10" (or 8", if you want) after 10 minutes, the 1st 10" coat has already shrunk back some, after it hit the dry board and tape coat.

- When the final coat is put on, it takes less time to apply and dry, and is ready to sand sooner, because of the quality of the 1st coat

- My sanding time is reduced, both on 1st and 2nd main coats, as I have things like less crowning to deal with

- I have less sanding dust

- Less sanding is easier on my body, so I can work a little longer and better at times

- Less checkout to spot and sand

- Less checkout can mean the painters might do it themselves after priming, &/or be willing to sand checkout out themselves and not wait. So fewer trips back for that at times

- I use less mud to do a job

- I have fewer possible blemishes to deal with in the end it seems when I double 10"

- Less hand sponging at the end

- I don't have to wait for 3 separate coatings to dry.

- I don't have 3 separate coatings to try and work around/deal with in places, when they're still wet.

- The quality look of that 1st main coat could impress the GC and/or owners a bit (especially if they're used to getting 2 main coats only and not 3), and they think they've got someone who maybe really knows what they're doing, so they might be a little less 'dictatorial', and maybe less likely to look for flaws as closely as they might otherwise.

------

It's a different way of boxing that seems to work for me and my situation most times. If the 3 coat works better for others and their situation than this approach, then it works better for them. I still do 3 coating in the odd instance. I'll use whatever method that seems to make most sense at the time.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

Lloydnz said:


> the 3 coat system has minimal sanding and covers any pock marks in the joints


in NZ, a 3 coat system is almost manditory because your mud is so terrible. in North America, we have better material that spreads nicer. No fault of your own.

I run 10" over a flat, then run it over that flat again right away. let dry.
run my 12". done. perfect.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

McDusty said:


> I run 10" over a flat, then run it over that flat again right away. let dry.


That's the way I used to do it at times as well, till I came across 2buck's method of waiting 10 minutes before running it again.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Something further I should've added to my last post is that 2buck's method gives 'added value' to running a box twice closely together, but waiting that 10 minutes in between. It more so makes me want to do it, rather than using my knife instead at times to clean things up.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> you should be reading justme's post,he's very intelligent.:yes:


This wouldn't by any chance be because I'm agreeing with your boxing method(?)


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

McDusty said:


> in NZ, a 3 coat system is almost manditory because your mud is so terrible. in North America, we have better material that spreads nicer. No fault of your own.
> 
> I run 10" over a flat, then run it over that flat again right away. let dry.
> run my 12". done. perfect.


 hi mcdusty we use usg 90 easy sand for 8"and usg total for the 10" and 12" boxes.the new zealand plaster here is designed to be applied by hand here.we can get usg and hamiltons there is one other the national gypsum company. I have used all of these products and are easy to get here.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

At the moment I use Tradeset 90 (kiwi hot mud) to tape in with fibafuse, then 8" box with tradeset, when dry scrape the nibs & ridges with a 12" knife, then heavy coat using 10" box with usg Total then wipe over with 12" knife while wet, then when bone dry a tight coat with 12" box and usg Total.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

Lloydnz said:


> hi mcdusty we use usg 90 easy sand for 8"and usg total for the 10" and 12" boxes.the new zealand plaster here is designed to be applied by hand here.we can get usg and hamiltons there is one other the national gypsum company. I have used all of these products and are easy to get here.


i'm fully aware of the material you have, just got back from 4 months in NZ 'gib-stopping' or whatever stupid name you guys had for it. the mud you guys have sucks. The only one i saw that was half decent was... USG Lite or something, it was a blue or purple lid i forget. 

at no point should you ever need to go around and 'knife' or 'wipe-down' your box work. 

10" - use #2 or 3 setting. slight crown, dries virtually flat. (mud shrinks, even 'hot' mud shrinks a little. 
12" - use #4 or 5 setting. flat blade, skim coat, you should be able to box out an entire room before making your way back to the pump.

the settings depend on variables. 
- blade wear
- runner wear
- brand
- where the 2 adjusting nuts are set at for your tension rod.
- thickness of your mud. (the crown on the box changes when mud get's squeezed out of it, thicker = more flex in the crown, thinner = less.)


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I feel lost,,, I use easy-finish mud (cheapest there is). I tape with a banjo or bazooka, let dry, bed with an 8 box and skim with a 10 box (both columbia's). Don't have a problem with pock marks or need a third coat.

I guess I'm just missing something here

2 weeks ago, some painters I know, took a job and then called me after they realized they couldn't finish 580 brds in one week. They had taped it ALL in mesh(butts and flats),lol, they had bought pro-form black lid. I beded it with an 8, skimed it with a 10, sanded it with a PC,,, guess what,,,,, wait for it,,,, NO POCK MARKS !!!!!!!!!!

They hadn't messed with the corners, so I taped them with paper and run em twice with the mudrunner (If they had used mesh there, they would have had to rip it out, or finish it thenselves)


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

McDusty said:


> at no point should you ever need to go around and 'knife' or 'wipe-down' your box work.


On this one, I'm lost along with Capt., McDusty. I thought you were running the 10" a 2nd time right away in place of knifing/wiping down your 1st box run. But maybe I guessed wrong. Are you using that 2nd box run for something else?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

McDusty said:


> at no point should you ever need to go around and 'knife' or 'wipe-down' your box work.
> 
> 
> > Never? what about laps??? Do you run 1/2 half a wall today and the other tomarrow to aviod these? What kind of boxes do you run that fill the joint ALL the way back into the corner??? What happens when you pick up trash??? do you clear the trash from the blade and then re-run the flat without haveing any buildup that has to be wiped???
> ...


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I feel lost,,, I use easy-finish mud (cheapest there is). .....................
> 
> ....................... guess what,,,,, wait for it,,,, NO POCK MARKS !!!!!!!!!!


Could the no pocking be a lot because of the easy finish mud? Or the mud brand you get? Or maybe you just know what you're doing? 

We get Synko given to us to use. They've supplied Synko lite finish to maybe 3 jobs I've been on. The rest of the time, it's been all-purpose for coating.

Every once in awhile a few ProRoc boxes show up.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Btw: I have few pock mark issues, if really any, by the time it comes to final coating and sanding.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

we are just on different pages and use different terms for things. i see where you are coming from... yes i suppose my second run would be a 'substitute' for wiping down. there are differences between doing what i do, and taking a knife and actually wiping it down.

yes, if i pick up a hitch-hiker (some crud in my mud) then of course i run the flat again. 

as far as taking down the lap marks, that's what sanding between coats is for.

getting right into the corner, not always a big deal. depends how you run your angles... and not using the cheapest material one can get his hands on is a good start too.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

McDusty said:


> we are just on different pages and use different terms for things. i see where you are coming from... yes i suppose my second run would be a 'substitute' for wiping down. there are differences between doing what i do, and taking a knife and actually wiping it down.
> 
> yes, if i pick up a hitch-hiker (some crud in my mud) then of course i run the flat again.
> 
> ...


 We seem to butt heads alot, you and me. 

Reading your post,,, if I was going to sand in between coats, I wouldn't bother wiping behind the box either. Kinda comes down to symatics ya know. Using high dollar mud as opposed to cheap mud will have no effect on how far back into the corner your box goes, nor the number of pock-marks.

Really we are argueing techniques here,,,, I have my helper wipe ALL the joints as I run em. We don't have to sand between coats, cause there are no laps or whatever. I find it quicker and cheaper to do this, than to sand between coats. Not that there is anything wrong in doing it the way you do it.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

yes we are arguing technique, but what we can agree on is that a box of any size is better than doing it by hand. now that would be horse and buggy for sure.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

McDusty said:


> yes we are arguing technique, but what we can agree on is that a box of any size is better than doing it by hand. now that would be horse and buggy for sure.


Yes, AMEN, your right !!!!!!!!!!!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SO .......sdrdrywall,did you find a answer to your question in any of these post :whistling2:


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

Capt, sorry to say, but I fall into the category no knife behind the box...boxes are made to "finish" drywall....not just apply mud to wipe down...I/we can do that with a paint roller and is a lot cheaper than a 1k$ box setup...

BUT...90% of my work is standup:thumbup:..flames and laps are at knee height or lower and get scraped between bed/skim or helper runs through with sanding pole

for laydown work, I pick the corners at angles but only drag them about 6" out of the corner...I seldom leave laps with the box that are bad enough that need wiped down...just have to learn to run the boxes right.....i'm in no way calling you out here capt....as im sure you don't have to wipe any laps you leave with a box

for me...and this is my opinion...why drag behind box to leave waves in flats or pull out mud that is meant to fill or float? Maybe this is why 2 coats with 8/10 cover for me


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Well I like what I've been reading and agree with both arguments. I do not wipe behind my boxes anymore. I used too, because I would be filling the corner where the box can't get into. I stopped because it is alot faster for me just to run the box throughout the whole house and then go back and fill the corners. I have to run my 10"box on a lighter setting because of that now and run my box both directions except on ceilings that get textured. I will double run on joints that have high shoulders but will usually just open up the box more and run beside the high spot and fill in later. It seems to me that the mud we get does not shrink back very much at all, and a 3 coat system would actually crown the flat and cause me more sanding in the end than its worth. Why put the 3rd box coat on if your just going to sand it off ? I am going to assume that everyone here knows how crappy the finish looks when you sand through a coat into the one before it.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

I used to use my columbia 10 - 1st coat on setting 3, then 2th coat on setting 4, with my 12, and final skim by hand. But after working on some jobs along with my pieceworkers, I learned a better technique.

Use the 1st coat - 10" box on setting 1 or 0. Let it fill real good. Don't whip it, its a waste of time. lightly sand before applying the 2th coat. I apply the second coat on setting 2, with a 12" box, and I'm done. You can do some small touch ups before running the 12 that where there before, but it cover. I mix my mud pretty watery for the 2th coat. Also I do the box by myself, no need for help. Let the other finishers work on the c-beads and angles. Reason I change, I notice when applying the 1st coat at a setting of 3, it would leave it smooth, drywall quicker, but it would not fully fill the joints. Especially since most of our work is stand-ups, the mud would strink, we would apply the 12" with a 4 setting, etc etc, then when the walls were primed /painted, you can notice a slight indent where the joints were not filled enough. The box fooled us, thats why I changed methods and it works for me now perfectly. 98% no touch ups after prime, and most of all, the walls are completely FLAT! 

I too use the cheapest mud. Holla at the EASY FINISH from LOWES!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Joe and the capt, you say your using easy finish, We have that here as well but its not the cheapest, its the more expencive brand, Are you guys taping with it as well???


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Joe and the capt, you say your using easy finish, We have that here as well but its not the cheapest, its the more expencive brand, Are you guys taping with it as well???


Hey Caz, I heard thru a builder that the guy who originally owned your mudrunner is using easy finish for taping now, I heard it secondhand so could be wrong, my guess is the builder got it wrong coz why would someone use a more expensive compound thats not intended for the job and there's boat loads of cheaper Usg all purpose available from the supplier he uses.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> SO .......sdrdrywall,did you find a answer to your question in any of these post :whistling2:


i got lots of answers but theyre all different! i tried your way yesterday and its really clean to finish with the 12 thanks its nice to get real advice


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

McDusty said:


> yes i suppose my second run would be a 'substitute' for wiping down.


That was the reason I used to do it that way - a substitute for knifing out pock marks and other problems.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Easyfinish is the cheapest mud there is around here, its 8.50/5er, thats more than 2.00 cheaper than anyother brand. Its an ap, so perhaps what your talking about is a differant mud. Yes we tape with it.

I understand the reasons you guys don't wipe,,, but if you re-read your posts, those that don't wipe, go back around a fill the corners, scrape the walls, and sand between coats. Nothing wrong with that. The way I do it, I don't have to go back around and fill and sand. The end result is you are not saving any time by not wipeing. Plus wipeing reduces pock marks by like 99.9%.

I always prefer to deal with wet mud than have to scrape,fill and/or sand dry mud


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## michel1949 (Jul 21, 2010)

its funny hihihihi
i was a hand taper and did it in 3 operations
you guys with $3500.00 machine you do it with 4 operations
so far i am still learning and i am doing 3 operations tape with bazooka
2nd coat with the 10 inches set at 3 and finish with a 12 set at 4
and its decent
i bet i can do it faster by hand the the guys doing it in 4 operations so what is the use to have automatic tools if you lose time to go over and over


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

I enjoy hand coating. I'd like to see that kind of speed in action, michel. Any chance of making a YouTube video?


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## michel1949 (Jul 21, 2010)

not sure if i can do a video but the last job i did i was doing probly 40 stand up flats with a 9 foot ceiling per hour (that is covering the tape with a 12 inches flat trowel
i never use a curve trowel

as to lay the tape by hand dont waste time with a knife 
put the mud on with your trowel lay your tape and wipe with the same trowel
lot faster that way
when i was taping by hand the only tools i use that wasn t a knife or trowel was a roller corner like a little paint brush beside that tool all was done with a knife and trowel and of course a tape holder
now i am getting a little better with the bazooka i can tape 16 X 1300 sg foot room 
less then 8 hours that is flats only since they were all stand ups
that is taping and sweapping
the only problem i have so far is the vertical angles since the rooms dint had a ceiling except the bathroom and the entrance i did the vertical with the tube and do the horizontal with the bazooka
i will be back to work in brampton in febuary and i will ask my wife to do a video of the way i am doing may not be the best way but at least it work for me
the way i mix my mud is 
for the bazooka when i mix the mud drips off the mixer like pancake mix
for the boxes the mud hangs on the mixer like a cake mix
for the nail spotter same as te mixer like cake mix
it may not be the best way but so far it works for me


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

I've never used a trowel.

(1st coating?) 40 9' standups in an hour - I'm not sure how well I could do, and still keep the quality up well enough. If it was 2nd coat - less problem. I doubt I'll ever find out, as that's when boxes will come out.

I use a 10" knife now when putting tapes on by hand and wiping them. It seems to work better for me than 6" knifing it, like most others do around here. I hold the blade length in the direction of the joint and can skim on a decent length of mud that way.

I can't really understand why you'd have more problems with the vertical angles than with the horizontal ones. Refresh my memory. Was the problem that the tapes were being pulled up too high off the floor? &/or were you missing mud on the backsides of some vertical angle tapes? If so, you wouldn't by chance be putting too much force on the creaser wheel and it's maybe causing your taper wheels to drift away from the walls a bit at times? 

My mud for the 12" is a little thinner than what I use in the 10". It's a lot just for filling in imperfections the 10" left behind.

I did a quick check on YouTube for someone coating flats with a trowel. How do you think you'd compare, if coating that flat?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

michel1949 said:


> its funny hihihihi
> i was a hand taper and did it in 3 operations
> you guys with $3500.00 machine you do it with 4 operations
> so far i am still learning and i am doing 3 operations tape with bazooka
> ...


your right,thats why I dropped the 7" many years ago,I had the same opinion as you,and seen it in action.a good hand taper could have the flat joints done in the same amount of time.(2nd,3rd coats)
plus in my opinion ,the most garbage mud is better than any of the old muds of yester years.
what you think michelle,your sixty something:whistling2of the mud now)


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

justme
that video was a total joke for the hand trowel
1) he's holding it fist like in his hands,your finger tips should be on the blade(top side of coarse) don't know what you call it,the bracket where they weld the blade..........lets just say it would require many pictures to show all the hand positions.fisting the trowel is more of a plaster operation,like when the petty coat is setting for one.using the trowel in taping is more of a light touch,floating type motion.About the only time I can think of fisting a trowel in taping is when skim coating a whole wall (level 5)
and running back and forth to coat,I couldn't stop laughing,whats he do when he's on a ladder ????


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## michel1949 (Jul 21, 2010)

you re right 2 bucks 
for the amount of time the guy used to cover the joint i would had time to do the whole room
the guy was trying to make it nice but the 2nd coat is not the finish coat so stop whipping and get to the next one.
another thing i dont use a hawk but the way i look at the video the guy just carry enough mud for 1 joint while i carry the whole pail beside of me to do the whole house.. if i were coating vertical flats i would had time to do 2 rooms including the closets while he was doing this single joint.
can you imagine this guy covering mesh tape with a full pail of 45 
he would waste a lot of mud hihihihi


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Hey Caz, I heard thru a builder that the guy who originally owned your mudrunner is using easy finish for taping now, I heard it secondhand so could be wrong, my guess is the builder got it wrong coz why would someone use a more expensive compound thats not intended for the job and there's boat loads of cheaper Usg all purpose available from the supplier he uses.


 
Thats what i was thinking kiwiman, Why would you tape with it??? Not ment for that and its too expensive?? Must thank that guy who didnt like the mudrunner one day :thumbsup: Saved me a heap on a new one and it was like new.
Easy finish from national gypsym Capt, Is that it??


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> justme
> that video was a total joke for the hand trowel
> 1) he's holding it fist like in his hands,your finger tips should be on the blade(top side of coarse) don't know what you call it,the bracket where they weld the blade..........lets just say it would require many pictures to show all the hand positions.fisting the trowel is more of a plaster operation,like when the petty coat is setting for one.using the trowel in taping is more of a light touch,floating type motion.About the only time I can think of fisting a trowel in taping is when skim coating a whole wall (level 5)
> and running back and forth to coat,I couldn't stop laughing,whats he do when he's on a ladder ????


 I kind of wondered about his overall method of doing it, but thought I'd check it out to make sure. It seemed somewhat slow to me, but there were a # of comments praising what he did.

I saw one guy from the U.K. comment how much better he thought the Aussie style was to the style used there, and that he now advertises in the U.K. as being trained in the Aussie way. Wonder what the U.K. method looks like.



michel1949 said:


> you re right 2 bucks
> for the amount of time the guy used to cover the joint i would had time to do the whole room
> the guy was trying to make it nice but the 2nd coat is not the finish coat so stop whipping and get to the next one.
> another thing i dont use a hawk but the way i look at the video the guy just carry enough mud for 1 joint while i carry the whole pail beside of me to do the whole house.. if i were coating vertical flats i would had time to do 2 rooms including the closets while he was doing this single joint.
> ...


I'd like to see speed with a trowel that comes anywhere close to that, Michel. Put a video out on YouTube, and put doubt in the guys who talk down trowels. I'd love to be able to show it to the trowel nay sayers around here.


Btw: That 2nd coat would be my finish coat in most all instances - which slows things down a bit for that coat, when I know I've only got 2 cover coats to complete the job. The company doesn't care to have us doing 3 coats.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

joepro0000 said:


> Use the 1st coat - 10" box on setting 1 or 0. Let it fill real good. Don't whip it, its a waste of time. lightly sand before applying the 2th coat. I apply the second coat on setting 2, with a 12" box, and I'm done. You can do some small touch ups before running the 12 that where there before, but it cover. I mix my mud pretty watery for the 2th coat. Also I do the box by myself, no need for help. Let the other finishers work on the c-beads and angles. Reason I change, I notice when applying the 1st coat at a setting of 3, it would leave it smooth, drywall quicker, but it would not fully fill the joints. Especially since most of our work is stand-ups, the mud would strink, we would apply the 12" with a 4 setting, etc etc, then when the walls were primed /painted, you can notice a slight indent where the joints were not filled enough. The box fooled us, thats why I changed methods and it works for me now perfectly. 98% no touch ups after prime, and most of all, the walls are completely FLAT!


and that just goes to show that all boxes are not the same. If i ran my 10" on 1 or 0", and 12" on 2, i would end up with giant bumps everywhere. life would suck afterward.


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