# The Definitive Glue Thread/Anti-Screw Pop



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Lets start to compile all the information that we know about gluing drywall on to TIMBER frame housing here. Lets throw regional codes out the window and come to the conclusion the the best procedure to glue drywall onto TIMBER FRAME homes. Lets not start any sort of war about glue vs. screws or timber vs. steel. Lets work under the assumption that everything is timber framed which is less than ideal. Here are some topics that I think we should touch on:

*Screw pattern:* standard screw pattern, no screws in field, one screw on every stud in field, double screwed, etc

*Glue application*: continuous bead, "dobs" of glue, how much glue on each stud in general, how many sheets per tube of glue, when and where to stop glue, screws through the glue?, etc


*Framing/Furring:* steps necessary to make sure framing is ready, planing/shimming studs, moisture content, RC/Hat channel, kiln dried lumber, etc

*Anti-Screw pop procedures:* main causes, mud types used, fastener types, oil on fasteners?, screwing to structural beams/LVL's, expansion joints? tape over fastener heads (veneer plaster procedure)?, etc


I'm guessing that I haven't even covered half of what has been discussed throughout the years. With all the threads lately about glue and screw pops, lets figure out as much as we can collaboratively. I'm betting there are ways to completely rid screw pops.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

One thing I have been thinking about is changing from a continuous bead to "dobs" of glue the way the Aussies do it..... so 4 dobs in 2 sets with a screw in between the sets of glue dobs. The reason I say this is after seeing some of our sheetrock ripped off it is apparant that the glue may not even touch the board in some areas due to timber framing being awful and our hangers getting in too much of a rush sometimes. The dobs would be higher off surface of the studs which would contact the board regardless of framing offsets. Thoughts?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

if your going to glue it could you just staple the drywall to hold it ? 
if I was to glue it I would want some kind of a slow expandable glue and run a bead. I think?


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

this is going to be an interesting thread.these are the methods I've been using for many yrs. on installation of rc its not to be screwed tight,i want it loose,if it gets into trouble from tress to tress it will twist instead of finding its own level.1" screws for boarding on rc.1 1/4" screws will grab wood.glueing to be globbed same pattern you would use for screws.1 screw every 3rd stud in the field.expansion joints always used running floor to floor through stairwells.these methods are not a cure all,but methods I'm confident with.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I'm betting there are ways to completely rid screw pops.


Frame the home. Then let It sit for 1 year before hanging board.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Frame the home. Then let It sit for 1 year before hanging board.


I agree that the houses should sit for a couple weeks with the air on to draw some moisture out. The problem is here the air doesn't come on until a couple weeks before closing  What do yall think about the glue dobs as opposed to the continuous bead?


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

I always put three, 6"-9" beads of glue in-between the screws. Screw Three in the field on ceilings and two on walls. 

On jobs without glue, I have noticed if the screw breaks through the paper, on sanding day the board can move and pop the mud out. With glue i dont see this. 


http://youtu.be/R3RC9BjZj2I


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

Wet wood is the problem..with or without glue. Just a different problem. Solve wet wood and problem goes away. Good luck with that


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

cracker said:


> Wet wood is the problem..with or without glue. Just a different problem. Solve wet wood and problem goes away. Good luck with that


Trying to make lemonade out of lemons here..... I know the wet lumber is at fault but I'm trying find a stronger path around it. Where there is a will there is a way :thumbsup:

i remember watching one of those veneer plaster videos and they put a piece of mesh over each screw head . If you used glue and had very few screws in the field do you think it would work to put a piece of say fibafuse over the screw head? Should only need one coat on top of the fibafuse as it sands back down. Wonder if it would still pop through?


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

No it will not stop it. The force of the wood shrinking is stronger than the fibafuse.


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

I have found a way to stop it, just not the time to patent it. So simple you would say No chit!!


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Maybe one screw in the field, four 6" beads of glue, two on each side of the screw. Then remove the only screw in the field after glue sets? 


http://youtu.be/R3RC9BjZj2I


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

this is the way we work here 

http://www.gyprock.com.au/Documents/GYPROCK-548-Commercial_Installation_Guide-201409.pdf

http://www.gyprock.com.au/Documents/GYPROCK-547-Residential_Installation_Guide-201111.pdf


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

they make a new drywall tape for drywall ...in comes in 4 foot strips. 
all you do is stick it to the studs and peel the other and stick the drywall to the studs..you cant pull it off after you stick it to the wall so you have to do it right the first time...so no nails or screws needed


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> they make a new drywall tape for drywall ...in comes in 4 foot strips.
> all you do is stick it to the studs and peel the other and stick the drywall to the studs..you cant pull it off after you stick it to the wall so you have to do it right the first time...so no nails or screws needed


That I need to see!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> That I need to see!


That would be interesting!


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I think I've seen that, or something similar to it. Looks like a plastic/ vinyl I-beam? One side has holes in it to let the mud through to bond to the board?


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Yall have any thoughts on Adhesive foam or other adhesive alternatives? I played with some Tytan adhesive and that stuff is ridiculously strong but hard to work with.. Doesn't like to stick to the studs upon application but boy does it stick when it cures! If they made a foam adhesive that would stick really well out the can then that would be better.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

moore said:


> That I need to see!


I just need my patent on it :whistling2:


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

moore said:


> Frame the home. Then let It sit for 1 year before hanging board.


I'm thinking the answer lies in proper drying of the framing lumber before it is used. 

The house I just finished was framed last June. Should be no pops in there. But it comes with a different set of problems: horrible twisted, warped studs, door & window headers twisted out of alignment. Much of this can or should be fixed before boarding. I saw a lot of framing nail heads sticking out proud of the wood. It showed exactly what would have happened with the drywall screws.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

what if you used 847 on the studs first ?


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

What if you tryed compound mud ive put some left over tape and mud on a doorway 2x4 before and it was pretty tough to come off


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Really outside the box thinking going on now :whistling2:. Although I bet a good taping mud would hold it!.... for while


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Really outside the box thinking going on now :whistling2:. Although I bet a good taping mud would hold it!.... for while


I've done it many times with reno work . A/P OR Hot mud has a stronger bond to wood than most of the glues I used. Give It try !


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

D A Drywall said:


> I'm thinking the answer lies in proper drying of the framing lumber before it is used.
> 
> The house I just finished was framed last June. Should be no pops in there. But it comes with a different set of problems: horrible twisted, warped studs, door & window headers twisted out of alignment. Much of this can or should be fixed before boarding. I saw a lot of framing nail heads sticking out proud of the wood. It showed exactly what would have happened with the drywall screws.


I had a H/O Tell me a few years ago .. He said . You would think In this day and time they would have something on the market to put in a home better than sheetrock ! 

I said .. They do! It's called Plaster ! But you can't / or won't pay the cost. That's why I'm here!!!!!

I followed up my smart ass statement with ...''You would think In this day In time they could find a better product to frame a home out other than a fuc#in TREE!!!''


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

My Family have been In this trade since The early 50s . West coast to East coast . It started with nail pops ..Then screw pops ! It's always been a problem ! Builders can act dumb all they want !!! They know why It happens . And so do most homeowners ! Don't let them fool you. They Know. 

They just find It easy to point fingers ! Cheaper that way! FREE FIX ! [FOR THEM]


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

moore said:


> My Family have been In this trade since The early 50s . West coast to East coast . It started with nail pops ..Then screw pops ! It's always been a problem ! Builders can act dumb all they want !!! They know why It happens . And so do most homeowners ! Don't let them fool you. They Know.
> 
> They just find It easy to point fingers ! Cheaper that way! FREE FIX ! [FOR THEM]


Free fix!! You said it. The only way to change their thinking would be to stop doing it for free. But then they get my competition to do the next jobs.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

http://www.amazon.com/Dap-Smartbond-00046-Pro-Grade-Applicator/dp/B00HLS0FRM 

I do have one...now I am going to do a test with this and 847


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> I've done it many times with reno work . A/P OR Hot mud has a stronger bond to wood than most of the glues I used. Give It try !


I know it would work. I. Time though I don't think it will stand up as much. Moore, have you ever done "dobs" of glue?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Dobs of glue, not lines. Glue not to be closer than 8 inches to screws. One centre screw on ceilings. Temporary screw in the centre of wall sheets, this should be removed 48 hours after fixing.:thumbsup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

gazman said:


> Dobs of glue, not lines. Glue not to be closer than 8 inches to screws. One centre screw on ceilings. Temporary screw in the centre of wall sheets, this should be removed 48 hours after fixing.:thumbsup:


Yall do the same for complete timber frame homes?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

thefinisher said:


> Yall do the same for complete timber frame homes?


Yes, exactly the same.


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## nodnarb (Apr 25, 2014)

moore said:


> I had a H/O Tell me a few years ago .. He said . You would think In this day and time they would have something on the market to put in a home better than sheetrock !
> 
> I said .. They do! It's called Plaster ! But you can't / or won't pay the cost. That's why I'm here!!!!!
> 
> I followed up my smart ass statement with ..._'*'You would think In this day In time they could find a better product to frame a home out other than a fuc#in TREE!!!''*_


They do! It's called steel! But they can't/ or won't pay for it!!!
That's why I work commercial !!!

:whistling2: :jester:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Moore, have you ever done "dobs" of glue?


No I Haven't .


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