# Looking for advice for buying first tool



## Leeboy (Dec 15, 2014)

My biggest drywall jobs are insurance claims . Mostly 2 foot cut outs . The odd bedroom or bathroom or ceiling . All I have is hawk , pan trowel and all size knives . ( I'm actually doing better work than some of the so called drywall pros) ( I'm a house painter by trade) I'm just wondering if there are some tools out there that could speed or improve my style of jobs ? Thanks for any advice .


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

For those sorts of jobs, your twp best friends are a multi master and fiba fuse.:thumbsup:http://www.fein.com.au/en_au/oscillating/multimaster/fein-multimaster-quickstart-0312805/


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

I agree with Gazman! Get the 3' rolls of Fibafuse. It's wonderful to work with. For a 2'x2' patch, I cover the whole patch with a 30"x30" piece of Fibafuse. Then just tight skims on top and at the edges; works great! :thumbsup:
I also like to cut a second roll into shorter lengths with my miter saw. I always carry various lengths with me so I have the right size at the ready! 
Give it a try, you'll not regret it. :thumbup:


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## Leeboy (Dec 15, 2014)

Right on , I will look into fiba fuse this week. My project manager suggested a similar tool to the multi master. Do you suggest that for doing my cutouts ? Is it good for say..... Cutting a 10 foot run ( x2 feet high) down a bedroom wall? I've always snapped a chalk line and used a olfa knife . I'm also seeking info about that Vario tape less mud if it would help me . I usually confil all my joints since I'm dealing with old wavy walls a lot .


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Leeboy, you can score it with a knife and use a router. This was my favorite for many years for cutting rock. Makes quick and clean cuts in shaftwall to.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Yes you can use it for long runs. The advantage over the router is a big reduction in dust. On smaller patches put the new board in place, then run the tool against the edge using it as a guide.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

for cutting the boards the boards nothing beats this.....get 1 and believe me never feld sorry 

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2625-20


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

More free advice Leeboy from our friendly crew on DWT feeling lucky I bet....


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> for cutting the boards the boards nothing beats this.....get 1 and believe me never feld sorry
> 
> https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2625-20


 I have one of those but in M12.

And drill and screw guns and small radio and torch and multi tool, Really like Milwaukee gear.


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## Leeboy (Dec 15, 2014)

Never thought of using a recip saw to cut boards ( I'm guessing you mean sheet rock boards) are you meaning to cut the size of the new board ? Or old board off the wall? I been using a t-square or level and then exacto blade , score and snap .


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

I think they mean to cut out windows and doors. When installing new sheets. 

With the guide you may be able to cut out those old walls off without cutting the stud behind? 

Can they caz?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> I think they mean to cut out windows and doors. When installing new sheets.
> 
> With the guide you may be able to cut out those old walls off without cutting the stud behind?
> 
> Can they caz?



I don't know, Ive never tried it.

I was thinking the blades to long on an M12 but I guess you could just make it shorter. You would have to careful with the wiring and plumbing, The small skil saws prob better but im only doing small stuff so the multi tools do me.


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/...TKut-Drywall-Reciprocating-SawBlades-2pk.html

These say they work. sorry for getting off topic though.

http://www.atlas-machinery.com/20v-max-18v-hepa-rated-wet-dry-vacuum/

for small jobs this is easy to get around with! and no body likes a mess!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Cool, Thanks for the link on those blades.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

check out this too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF5qxbbClSU


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

That's awesome, Will have to get some for my saw.


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## Leeboy (Dec 15, 2014)

Wowzers ....... Those blades for the recip look so cool ....great ideas


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

anyone use?
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/...TKut-Drywall-Reciprocating-SawBlades-2pk.html


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

With the circular saw you can set the depth just shy of the rock thickness. It has a guide so it cuts straighter than a Sawzall and you go right over metal studs without dulling the blade. This means you don't have that dog nut at every stud either.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

But how is it for cutting the ceiling? ( easy to manoeuvre above your head, dust)


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

keke said:


> But how is it for cutting the ceiling? ( easy to manoeuvre above your head, dust)


Whether router, Sawzall, or circular ceilings and dust just plain suck.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Stanley+199&FORM=RRIMGE


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

How is that knife going Rick? The old ones are hard to beat.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gazman said:


> How is that knife going Rick? The old ones are hard to beat.


Daily user Gaz !! :yes: You just can't beat the feel of the old Stanley Knives !! :thumbsup:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Glad it found a worthy home.:thumbsup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

wish they still sold this in my neck of the woods


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

moore said:


> Daily user Gaz !! :yes: You just can't beat the feel of the old Stanley Knives !! :thumbsup:


 I agree 100%, this one is broken because the part that keeps the blade from going back and forth broke. When I bought a new Stanley it's now made so you can't stick the blade all the way out so I switched to the Wallboard.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Mudstar said:


> wish they still sold this in my neck of the woods


This is the closest we have over here to that knife. I dont understand why they try to fix what aint broke.
http://www.stanleytools.com.au/prod...lade+Knives/Stanley+FatMax+Fixed+Blade+Knives


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

MrWillys said:


> I agree 100%, this one is broken because the part that keeps the blade from going back and forth broke. When I bought a new Stanley it's now made so you can't stick the blade all the way out so I switched to the Wallboard.


The blade notches are the first to wear .. When the blade starts to wobble ..The knife is shot. They need to to start making the notches with a stronger material .. And a padding in the spare blade casing would be a great idea . I never store blades in there they just joggle around and get dull. If they could pad that little compartment That would be genius ! :yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gazman said:


> This is the closest we have over here to that knife. I dont understand why they try to fix what aint broke.
> http://www.stanleytools.com.au/prod...lade+Knives/Stanley+FatMax+Fixed+Blade+Knives


The quick change is cool ...But I still don't like the feel of those crook knives .


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

gazman said:


> This is the closest we have over here to that knife. I dont understand why they try to fix what aint broke.
> http://www.stanleytools.com.au/prod...lade+Knives/Stanley+FatMax+Fixed+Blade+Knives


Don't like the newer Stanley's Like moore said the crook is too much and there heavier. I'll have to stick with what moore uses till I find that Stanley I'm looking for....


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

If I was only going to get one tool and I was a painter that wants to mud...you need to start with a 6" knife and a hawk or pan. 
Learn hand taping before you get the auto tools.


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