# Fibafuse Thoughts/views???



## cazna

Hello.
Im wondering what people think of fibafuse.
It seems easier than paper and they say it has more strength but fools rush in.
It seems very strong if you try to pull it apart but if you hold it on both sides and move it up and down against the center crease its very easy to get movement along the fold.
A lot of cracks are caused by wallboard moving this way, ie flapping against each other very slightly.
I have a big house to start soon and was thinking of using fibafuse for the flats/butts and paper for the corners but since this is a new product im not so convinced, maybe i should stick with paper for now.
I will look very silly in a few years if it plays up and cracks?
So what do you guys/gals make of it then????


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## Mudstar

I've never seen the stuff in action, so what I think is if it absorbs and can be apart of the compound used to adhere it self to the board it self then it might work as well as paper tape. 

Why I say this is there are other product on the market that have some plastic and or vinyl in them that some but not all compound to stick to it with holding power to not let go. 

Strait-flex is one of them that I have had some issues with unless you coat the whole surface to hold it down you can't treat it the same as no-coat. 

So with this said absorbing into the product makes for a better mating of 2 different materials

I'd like to see the product in my hands before saying its worth using


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## Kiwiman

Corners - I used a Banjo and Midweight usg A/P, can am corner roller and flusher seemed to work best for me, much better than paper for rolling in, the Northstar angle head...not so good, it will work, but even on the 2nd coat the point gets a build up of fibre's, bear in mind I only tried the angle head on several corners so if I perservered with maybe adjusting blades or trying different techniques or maybe sanding 1st coat then it might be fine. My banjo with the homemade wheel (similar setup to a homax but bigger wheel) absolutely loves it, because of the light weight tape it's easier to use, the tape pulls thru with much less resistance and there's less tape drag on the board. 
Taping corners by hand - I used a small corner trowel to apply the mud and to bed the tape in etc, it's not prone to wrinkles as much as paper, the only new learning curve is that the tape won't stay folded when it's dry, papertape you can crease it and place it, Fibafuse works best with mud already on it for corners. 
Flats - Banjo and Tradeset 90 (Setting compound) - when wiping down/bedding the tape in, it's much quicker and easier than paper and it's not prone to stretching and wrinkling with the moisture also there's no worries of squeezing too much mud out from under the tape. 
I tried over sanding a corner to see how the fibre's react and they were less of a problem, in fact I think painting would easily hide them.
One room I heat stressed before sanding (hope the owners not reading) with a 50kw diesel blower, no problems what so ever.
I didn't try it in a bazooka but I imagine it would be fine, with such a lightweight roll of tape I imagine it would be easier on the body.
The verdict....I like it:thumbup:, I'm going to keep using it, especially with the added strength value that comes with it, it may take some time but I can see it becoming an industry standard in New Zealand because of that. The price here is maybe double that of papertape but on an average $6000 job it might cost an extra $30 - $40, which isn't that bad if it saves having to return for a butt repair or something. 
I say try it... You just might like it, it seems to be in no way related to meshtape but more of a variation of papertape, also...make sure to use your mud thin with it.. How about you Cazna, have you done much more with it?


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## cazna

Wow Some body out there is showing some interest in this product, funny that its us behind the times kiwis, Come on yanks wakie wakie.

I have certianly havent tryed it out as much as you kiwiman, fantastic report :thumbsup:
I have used a few rolls in the flats just by hand so far and i do like it, its easier to apply than paper, much less pushing needed but i have over worked it and fluffed it up, also if it creases it wont slip along as paper will but just keep it pulled out when applying and this is not an issue.

I couldnt get any more yet so hit the house im on with paper, i see if you run it thru a bazooka the gooser needle needs removed though, it wont feed as paper does, I think? But i havent tryed it yet. I would say wiping down ceilings would be easier than paper too? Im not a big banjo user so havent tryed that either but sounds like its good.

Its nice on the butts, sits well, flatter than paper.

Im not so sure on using it for corners though, Maybe Mr fibafuse could produce a type for flats only and do away with the crease? I think he could make it thicker in the centre and this would increase strength even more which im sure we would all like.

A Corner type needs more fibers or some plastic tape in the centre to stop the angle heads from catching maybe?

I have some villaboard eves to do as well and that is paper tape but i think fibafuse would be better, But Mr fibafuse said the cement may break down the fibers and would get back to me, No reply on that yet so paper it is then.

So have you only sent fibafuse to NZ Mr Fibafuse??? No body else seems to have much to say, Shame, i think your onto a winner here.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> i see if you run it thru a bazooka the gooser needle needs removed though, it wont feed as paper does, I think? But i havent tryed it yet.


 I've tried a dry run with it in the bazooka and the gooser works fine, might be a different story with mud in it maybe? I'll have to wait and see. Something else I noticed if you try and pull papertape apart with your fingers it will eventually suddenly seperate, but do the same with fibafuse and it doesn't completely seperate... you can pull it apart 10mm and there's still fibres joining it.


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## Saul_Surfaces

Out of curiosity, what is driving your interest in switching to a tape that is more expensive, and a little harder to embed at the ends of runs? Is it the extra adhesion that appeals? Or maybe that it might stand up to water damage better?

I use it when I'm taping with setting compound because I like the idea of the mud getting into the weave and hardening up, making for a better bond than I'd get with paper (there's less glue in setting compound). I can't see myself switching over to Fibafuse for taping a whole house though. I'm faster with paper. Well, it's my bazooka that's faster with paper, but I wouldn't use my banjo on a whole house. It might be nice for home owners worried about bubbles, or for training new staff, so they can see where their mistakes are. I went to bid a texture job on walls that the owner had taped himself. Wish he'd used something like fibafuse so he could see where the dry spots were (and presumably would have fixed them). So many bubbles in his paper tape. Talked my way out of bidding that job.


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## cazna

Talked my way out of bidding that job.[/quote]

Amen. We all been there dude and its a great skill to have.

I dont find it harder to tape at the ends with???
Maybe it just a new product thats my interest, But something stronger, faster, lighter and sits flatter would have to be a plus for us all.
And im not bothered about the cost, its minimal, paper tape is cheap, it a non issue for me if fibefuse costs double, that can be easily made up on speed if it works out faster.
I know what you mean about home owners taping, I have had a few do that then call me for the last coat, they think they saving money???
I talked, walked, and ran accross the fires of hell to get away from those jobs, They dont want to pay away so better off on someone elses job.


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## Kiwiman

Saul_Surfaces said:


> Out of curiosity, what is driving your interest in switching to a tape that is more expensive, and a little harder to embed at the ends of runs? Is it the extra adhesion that appeals? Or maybe that it might stand up to water damage better?


I think most of all it would be peace of mind knowing I haven't scrooged on the quality/durability of the materials used for the price's I charge, I think it will be good to tell a home owner that I'm using a product that is 70% more resistant to cracking than anything else available...bear in mind anything will crack given the right circumstances, I find it a lot easier and quicker bedding the tape in by hand but maybe thats just me, and yes the resistance to moisture damage is a good feature too, no papercuts either:thumbup:


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## cazna

Have you seen nicks latest mailer? $5.50 for paper tape and $8.95 for the fibafuse. Not Bad Nick.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Have you seen nicks latest mailer? $5.50 for paper tape and $8.95 for the fibafuse. Not Bad Nick.


On a six roll house thats only an extra $20.70 , Thats pretty good...Only half a bottle of whisky.


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## Kiwiman

*Update*

I tried it for real this time with a bazooka and it runs through it just fine, I got one tape jam but that was my fault for not stopping fully before cutting. The more I use this stuff and get to know it, the more I like it, I have started to notice some minor irritation where the skins a bit soft (and no...I don't mean down there) but doesn't bother me too much.


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## Kiwiman

Now I've had more time to play with the corners I've found rolling in and then using the 2.5" corner flusher seems to be the way for bedding the tape in, and now I've got my angle heads adjusted properly and the tip dulled off a bit more that they are fine for the next coat, the only thing that worries me is that even after the muds bone dry it is easy to cut into the corner with a broadknife where there has been a slight gap before taping...like there's no mud at all behind it.


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## cazna

Thats were paper is better for the corners? I have now used a little on some butts and patches, its great and sits really flat, im thinking i might get brave and use it for the flats on my next house, and paper for the corners.


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## carpentaper

on first use i am not liking this product. i was hoping to use it the same way i use mesh tape. i like to use mesh for short tapes and headers and for strengthening blowouts. i like to just lay the stuff on before i start prefilling and hit it at the same time with a thick mixed hot mud. i discovered fibafuse does not work well with thick mud(at least not for me). i'm probably going to use the stuff up on this job for the butts and flats just to get rid of it. i feel like their is too much of a learning curve with this stuff for me to change what already is working well for me. maybe i'll change my tune after i try it with some thinner mud tomorrow.


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## carpentaper

second try i used it with thin taping mud. sooooooo much better. i like it. nice flats and butt joints. i did find it harder to embed at the end of joints. it does not stand up to the same abuse paper will. but just looking at it the next day and seeing for myself how it fuses the joint when dry i can't see it cracking. even if a crack did form i think the irregular pattern of strands would obscure a crack from showing. i will definitely be using more of this product.


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## Mudstar

carpentaper said:


> even if a crack did form i think the irregular pattern of strands would obscure a crack from showing.


what this statement means to me

sounds like more junk


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> what this statement means to me
> 
> sounds like more junk


 
What choo talkin bout willis??? have you even tryed it??


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## Capt-sheetrock

I haven't tried it either, and I don't like either.

Look kids, we are drywallers, learn how to use the drywall products. 

If you learn how to use paper tape, you will find there is no reason to go chaseing rabbits !!


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## Saul_Surfaces

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I haven't tried it either, and I don't like either.
> 
> Look kids, we are drywallers, learn how to use the drywall products.
> 
> If you learn how to use paper tape, you will find there is no reason to go chaseing rabbits !!


easy now Captain. Paper doesn't stand up to water damage well. If a tape accommodates mechanical bonding to the mud better than paper tape, or is stronger than paper, I'm at least interested. Why shouldn't you be?


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## Capt-sheetrock

Saul_Surfaces said:


> easy now Captain. Paper doesn't stand up to water damage well. If a tape accommodates mechanical bonding to the mud better than paper tape, or is stronger than paper, I'm at least interested. Why shouldn't you be?


Probbly cause I'm an old grouchy guy. 

However, if water damage is the problem,,, this stuff won't help either (if your using drywall mud). 

The reason I stated that way is this,,

1) mesh users like mesh cause they don't know how to handle paper
2) Fiber-fuse is an atttempt to get paper tape users to try a mesh-like alternative.
3)mesh and fibe-fuse are an attempt to help you skip a step,,, and wheather you believe in the tooth fairy or not,,, you cannot skip a step in the drywall process and come out with an acceptable product.

I know the "belivers" will not agree, but thats okay too. 
Grandma had a saying "don't pee down my back and tell me its raining"


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## fenez

capt. I tried fibafuse, it is the same exact install and finish as conventional taping there are no skipped steps. I believe the only difference is that it leaves flatter seams and butts.


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## cazna

Im not skipping nothing and im no mesh tape user, if you got a roll and tryed it capt you might find it ok. :thumbsup: It has its place, i have fixed a few cracks now by putting this stuff straight over it and so far its worked well.


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## carpentaper

i found i was getting a much flatter butt joint than usual.


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## cazna

Im about to really test it, I have been doing some villaboard eves on a new house which states papertape with villaboard plaster, well the house is still settling and they are compacting the drive with big machine rollers and shaking the house and some of the eve joins have cracked (None inside thankfully) So what options do i have now?? Paper tape them again?? Im going to try the fibafuse and see if it works?? wish me luck :thumbsup:


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## Mudstar

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Grandma had a saying "don't pee down my back and tell me its raining"


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## FibaFuse

cazna said:


> Wow Some body out there is showing some interest in this product, funny that its us behind the times kiwis, Come on yanks wakie wakie.
> 
> I have certianly havent tryed it out as much as you kiwiman, fantastic report :thumbsup:
> I have used a few rolls in the flats just by hand so far and i do like it, its easier to apply than paper, much less pushing needed but i have over worked it and fluffed it up, also if it creases it wont slip along as paper will but just keep it pulled out when applying and this is not an issue.
> 
> I couldnt get any more yet so hit the house im on with paper, i see if you run it thru a bazooka the gooser needle needs removed though, it wont feed as paper does, I think? But i havent tryed it yet. I would say wiping down ceilings would be easier than paper too? Im not a big banjo user so havent tryed that either but sounds like its good.
> 
> Its nice on the butts, sits well, flatter than paper.
> 
> Im not so sure on using it for corners though, Maybe Mr fibafuse could produce a type for flats only and do away with the crease? I think he could make it thicker in the centre and this would increase strength even more which im sure we would all like.
> 
> A Corner type needs more fibers or some plastic tape in the centre to stop the angle heads from catching maybe?
> 
> I have some villaboard eves to do as well and that is paper tape but i think fibafuse would be better, But Mr fibafuse said the cement may break down the fibers and would get back to me, No reply on that yet so paper it is then.
> 
> So have you only sent fibafuse to NZ Mr Fibafuse??? No body else seems to have much to say, Shame, i think your onto a winner here.


New Zealand and Australia have embraced FibaFuse for sure. But so has the US and Canada; UK is starting to gain some interest in it as well. I think more people will be convinced when they don't get any callbacks due to FibaFuse. As with any new product it takes time to prove a product stands up to its claims. Keep the feedback coming - both positive and negative. Can't wait to hear the results of your upcoming job!!!


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## cazna

Hi Tom just wondering if a roller would work with the fuse?
When you run it thru a bazooka do you still run it with one wheel touching the wall or can it run two wheels?? havent tryed it yet but im braving up to do the flats, butts in the next house.


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## FibaFuse

Cazna, I haven't tried a roller method using FibaFuse but I think its a good idea. Using a roller will easily embed it into the mud. I'm thinking more like a firm foam roller - something that will not absorb too much mud but will press the tape against the board. 

Regarding the bazooka wheels, you can run it with two wheels. Are you concerned there will be too much drag on the tape with two wheels? Not sure if you saw it yet but check out the fibafuse video on youtube... 



 - go to the 5:00 min mark on the video - it shows an auto-taper in action.


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## cazna

Ok, Thanks.


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## 2buckcanuck

2bucks 2cents worth !
-if the tape sits that much tighter to the butts ,are you going to start making your butts not as wide as you use to, I doubt it.
-hand feed tape throw bazooka without pin,thats a broken bazookie to me,loss of speed,damn thing should never touch the ground if you know how to run one right.
-As capt sheetrock stated ,the tape maybe water resistant,but the mud your using isn't .
-if your looking for tape to bond better,well here's a really really dumb thought [ or I'm a genius ]guys throw soap in their mud,why not throw some extra GLUE in your mud.
-mudstar,capt sheetrock,what type of glue do they put in mud ?
-cazna ,got a experiment for you to try


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## Capt-sheetrock

I watched the video,, and I still don't see where its an improvement. Like 2buck said,,, the tape may be mold resistantant, but the mud and drywall is not. If it won't feed with a gooser, bazooka operatorers will never use it. That being said, where does this product improve over paper tape?? Why are people always looking for a way to re-place paper tape instead of just learning how to use it???

Maybe I'm missing something here, but then again, I know how to use paper tape.


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## Mudstar

There will never be a replacement to paper that will work the same period. Glass does not absorb, so that being said should be a no brainer.............


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## cazna

Its the flintstones were the flintstones, a modern stoneage family.
Thats the input from Fred Barney and Bam Bam :thumbup:

Dear Lord
Please keep granting me the wisdom to look ahead and try new things as they happen, And dont allow the foolishness of discounting new ideas and products without even trying them creep up on me in my old age.
And allow me to add them to my kit to aid me in whatever roads may lie ahead to keep me on top of competition and make life as interesting and easy as possable. Amen

This stuff does have some good points boys, dont try it then, your loss.

Oh im such a pompous arse, If you cant beat em i might as well join em. :jester:

Way you go Mudstar, copy paste and contradict...........again. We could have been friends you and me.


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> Its the flintstones were the flintstones, a modern stoneage family.
> Thats the input from Fred Barney and Bam Bam :thumbup:
> 
> Dear Lord
> Please keep granting me the wisdom to look ahead and try new things as they happen, And dont allow the foolishness of discounting new ideas and products without even trying them creep up on me in my old age.
> And allow me to add them to my kit to aid me in whatever roads may lie ahead to keep me on top of competition and make life as interesting and easy as possable. Amen
> 
> This stuff does have some good points boys, dont try it then, your loss.
> 
> Oh im such a pompous arse, If you cant beat em i might as well join em. :jester:
> 
> Way you go Mudstar, copy paste and contradict...........again. We could have been friends you and me.



sounds like your feeling better today .....


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> sounds like your feeling better today .....


 
Ha Ha Ha good work Mr Mud, See, best of friends :thumbsup:


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## rhardman

*If I might interject here...*

The bazooka and boxes are a proven system along with paper tape. It is established with no negative issues to contend with. A drywall guy is risking credibility with his GC and to his reputation if he goes too far out on a limb just to try something new. Even if it's advantages are there, unless there is an incredible increase in productivity, it's not worth the potential pain. Most guys will wait until someone else proves it (i.e. takes the risk) before they will try.

It's unfortunate (IMO) because this causes the technology of the entire industry to sit stagnant. 

DWT offers the greatest opportunity to improve the tools and products for the industry but unfortunately everyone is focused on finding business right now. There doesn't seem to be a lot of interest in trying something new. 

I say good for St. Gobain for offering FibaFuse. They have invested a lot of money into something they believe has merit. It should be worth a try. I think there is room for improvement in the tape but how will they make it better unless we physically try* it an then tell them what we think based on actual experience? 

That being said...an improvement needs a lower purchase price than what they are currently buying and not just offer a production advantage or improvement in quality. Otherwise trying to convince people to buy it will be much more difficult. It's the nature of this particular beast.

(*I agree with the Capt. The FibaFuse tape will not be accepted as a standard unless they improve it's ability to be advanced through a standard bazooka. )


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## fenez

There is nothing more difficult to take in hand, more perilous to conduct or more uncertain of success than to take a lead in the introduction of new things, because the innovation has for enemies all those who have done well under the old conditions and only luke-warm defenders in those who may do well under the new. 
Machiavelli

While I think the product has it's uses and is relatively good... it isn't a time saver which is the main reason for any taper to try something new in the first place, with that being said.... I don't for a second believe that taping will lay stagnate forever I am certain that there will be major advancement at some point, for anyone to say that the finishing trade and it's products have advanced as far as it will go is just plain ignorant, ask the plasterers that said drywall was crap and would never catch on or the rockers that used to have to nail everything off.


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## cazna

VERY, Very well put sir, my hat comes off to you fenez.

Much respect for attitides such as this, :thumbsup:


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## fenez

Just quoting Machiavelli, but thanks for the thumbs up it's appreciated


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## 2buckcanuck

fenez you are right
to me the tools have hit their apex,just a few mods here and there,few improvements here and there 1.0,1.1 ,1.2 etc.....
Where the major change has to come from is the material,maybe fibrefuse a small stepping stone to that.first design a needle/pin that will feed the fibrefuse through a bazooka.then a mud that drys 10x faster,(not sets but dries).design a type of drywall that forces the mud to dry even faster.It's the material that needs to change not the tools,we all technically still use plaster tools even though the material has changed so......
only place I might try fibrefuse is in a basement ,and only on the flats,just because it sounds like you can coat it the same day.might cut me down to 3 trips instead of 4.BUT that paper bead might hold me up........now they got to invent fibrefuse corner bead....and that faster drying mud........
necessity is the mother of invention.......where's a greedy capitalist when you need one ........hey yanks:jester:


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## kgphoto

I think the main benefit of Fiba-Fuse is the increase strength. Maybe it will reduce callbacks for those annoying corner cracks at windows and doors. That and the fact that is can be used with GP or Hot Mud. 

Certainly for production work it will have to be able to be applied with the speed of a bazooka, so maybe a retro fit kit or their own bazooka will have to be introduced.


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> There will never be a replacement to paper that will work the same period. Glass does not absorb, so that being said should be a no brainer.............


You got me thinking about this non absorbing thing and its a great point.

Say with you do a butt and its a bit daggy along the edges so you cut it out (V it) then you need to fill this gap first before you tape becouse if you fill it and then tape it with paper, the paper absorbs and peaks outwards leaving you with and annoying hump right in the butt that you have to deal with.

So you have to fill this gap with some mud first, let dry, then tape so you get a nice flat tape.
Well today i just filled the gap put fibafuse on it wiped it off to see want would happen...............It didnt peak out, it peaked in, A little.
So it seems your right Mudstar, it does not absorb which is great, now if i do a smaller hot mud job no longer do i need to prefill these butts (Yes i know more shrinkage, maybe) But some jobs are a rush, so how handy its that :thumbsup:

But wait theres more, with a blow out you have to cut it, fill it, dry then tape it so it does not sag out either, Yep i did a few small ones with the fuse and it didnt sag out. Great, it really is a no brainer, Cheers Mudstar.

And get a couple of off cuts of board and tape some paper and fuse to it but leave a dry bit hanging out so you can grab it and pull it off then you shall see which is stronger. Im loving this stuff but yes it needs to be able to go through the bazooka, which i shall be giving a dam good go in a few weeks.

If you get any movement with paper, it has no give, ok its fairly strong but it will just break and give a hairline crack, i dont think this stuff can break that way, it seems to give a little more before it could break, like the old fibre board, that wouldnt break would it, tear a little yes but not a clean break, So what would a broken fiberfuse join be like?? not like paper that breaks then the two sheets of board are seperated, or like the old fiberous plaster board, split a little but still stay together? so how would you fix that? prob just a peice of fuse over it and start agian? Time will tell i guess, Phew what a ramble, you know, i was a bad typer before this DWT nonsence.


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## Capt-sheetrock

kgphoto said:


> I think the main benefit of Fiba-Fuse is the increase strength. Maybe it will reduce callbacks for those annoying corner cracks at windows and doors. That and the fact that is can be used with GP or Hot Mud.
> 
> Certainly for production work it will have to be able to be applied with the speed of a bazooka, so maybe a retro fit kit or their own bazooka will have to be introduced.


Are you saying that Fiber-fuse is so strong that it will prevent cracks around windows and doors due to settleling?? Must be better than we thought. I believe paper tape can be used with Gp and hot mud also.


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## kgphoto

Captn.,

Not quite what I meant. Fiba-Fuse is 70% stronger than paper. Maybe that is enough to withstand the nominal settling. 

I find most homes have been taped with paper and they crack. Maybe that is just the only time they will crack and now that the house is settled it won't crack again, no matter what you do. 

I have be asked to repair recurring cracks fixed by other tradesmen. I usually do more than just smear on some mud, like so many painters do.

I usually dig out and refasten the board if it shows movement and then pre-fill and tape with hot mud. other than the big earthquakes that hit our area about every 10-15 years, they don't crack again.

I have used Fiba-Fuse on my plaster ceiling crack in a hallway. I did various sections with hot mud and GP with Mesh and Fiba-Fuse. I am waiting to see if any re-cracks.


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## DSJOHN

Kg you live in earthquake land --everything cracks


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## Kiwiman

Someone mentioned about having to modify the bazooka to run fibafuse, My clapped out old clunker of a bazooka runs it just fine, the only difference would be the pin that advances the tape is "blunt".


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## SaskMud

Kiwiman said:


> Someone mentioned about having to modify the bazooka to run fibafuse, My clapped out old clunker of a bazooka runs it just fine, the only difference would be the pin that advances the tape is "blunt".



By blunt,,, you mean dull?


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## Kiwiman

SaskMud said:


> By blunt,,, you mean dull?


Yep...A bit like me on a Monday morning.


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## cazna

Thats interesting its feeding ok kiwiman, i will be trying it in a week or so, will update how i get on, looking forward to it though.

Im not really a bazooka champ, so a fingerfeed wont bother me to much, its only a day and the house is taped out for flats anyway, im using paper for corners, so i dont see any huge time loss if i do need to fingerfeed it, If i was just doing new house after new house then it would but im doing all aspects of it, patch ups, renos, painting, wallpapering, im plastering then painting this one, so really my bazooka time is quite small in the big picture of things.


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## rhardman

On your job, how about taking a pencil eraser and sticking it on the needle for the tape advance? If it doesn't bind in the open groove underneath, it might work okay. You may need to play with how deep the eraser is mounted on the needle. Spring tension is another question.

It's worth a try. :thumbsup:

I drew up an accessory that would adapt to the bazooka that should push the FibaFuse fine. I just don't have time to build it.

(Kiwi, I haven't forgotten...)


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## cazna

Hi Rick, Do you mean the rubber off the top of a pencil?? stick that onto the gooser needle?? Some better rubber might work too, good idea i will give it a go :thumbsup:


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## rhardman

The rubber (eraser) from the pencil I thought would be best as it's fairly light weight and will take the needle with little effort.

I'm sure other types of rubber would work too. The thing is that you want it to have the smallest footprint on the tape as possible so when it pulls back, it doesn't drag on the tape and cause loose fibers to fall loose and build up.


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## roominaday

I have taped (repaired) my own modular house with fibafuse and replaced all the cracked beads with trimtex chamfer. It was delivered in 2 peices and every friggen window and door is cracked as well as many of the angles. I installed new dw in the stairwell and used it with GP. All the window and door cracks I cut out and used fast-set with fibafuse right away, and left a small film on it. You can almost get a way with 2 coats (bed and fill) and it looks like a level 4.e. I used Nocoat 325 in all the cracked inside offsets.

I have been using it here and there for certain jobs. I used a combination of fuse and paper in the corners of my own home.


Fuse summary -It sits very flat, dried fast, its excellent with hotmud and GP, and I like it on butts. I trust it way more than fibertape and I am sick of mixing hot mud.

I am still worried about the long term performance but I like it a lot except in corners, not sold on it yet as I am too scared to try it in a whole house and use it sparingly in many houses just to play with it.


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## automatictools

Another problem with running this through a taper is the cutting blade wearing quickly. There seems to be two blades that differ in performance. The best is very polished and mirror looking the other is dull like any low cost blade. The dull ones seem to run out much quicker and can cause binds and jams when it only cuts 1/2 way through. Sharp or dull needles have never been a issue for us (but this is bench testing - MUCH different than jobsite).


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## walltools

cazna said:


> Hello.
> Im wondering what people think of fibafuse.
> It seems easier than paper and they say it has more strength but fools rush in.
> It seems very strong if you try to pull it apart but if you hold it on both sides and move it up and down against the center crease its very easy to get movement along the fold.
> A lot of cracks are caused by wallboard moving this way, ie flapping against each other very slightly.
> I have a big house to start soon and was thinking of using fibafuse for the flats/butts and paper for the corners but since this is a new product im not so convinced, maybe i should stick with paper for now.
> I will look very silly in a few years if it plays up and cracks?
> So what do you guys/gals make of it then????


We posted a FibaFuse video up on our new blog page. Check it out and share some of your thoughts on the blog: http://www.walltools.com/store/blog/


----------



## cazna

Yeah seen that clip many times.

Now Tom, why have you been marketing the fibrefuse saying you need to remove the gooser needle and finger feed through the bazooka???
I used it today and it ran just fine, no problems at all, in fact it was just as easy if not easier than paper, i didnt take the gooser needle off my goldblatt G2, its a sharp needle and i had a little peice of rubber handy to try ricks trick if i needed too but i didnt, it worked great.

I cant see me going back to paper now for the flats, fuse is much better, stronger, better drying, better on butts, nice to wipe down, great through bazooka or banjo, great with hot muds or taping or all purpose, dosent absorb water so dosent swell as paper can. Great product.


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Yeah seen that clip many times.
> 
> 
> I cant see me going back to paper now for the flats, fuse is much better, stronger, better drying, better on butts, nice to wipe down, great through bazooka or banjo, great with hot muds or taping or all purpose, dosent absorb water so dosent swell as paper can. Great product.


 Yup, me too, if I were the fibafuse owners I would temporarely drop the price to the same as paper, then once everyone is hooked the extra volume should bring prices down permanently, otherwise it will always sit in second place.


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## Mudstar

Any product that does not absorb the compound won't bind anything period. Whats so hard to understand about that. I dare you to challenge dipping paper tape into taping mud and then a fiberglass based tape, let it soak for a couple minutes or more, pull out and wipe off the access and let dry. I guarantee that you can bend and twist and rip both tapes and the paper will be stronger and will not have anywhere close to what any fiberglass base tape in the means of compound separating from the tape in the form of crumbs of compound.

Try it for yourself


----------



## kgphoto

Mudstar,

Is that a real world test? I mean, what does it show as a comparison to the forces on drywall tape in the field? Just trying to understand your point. Or are all you are saying is that the dried mud with stick to the paper better than it will stick to the fiba fuse surface while both are hanging in the air?

If that is the case, then shouldn't you just stick both to a piece off drywall, let dry and then try to pull them off? Wouldn't that be a more real world test?


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## cazna

With fibrafuse the mud goes through and all around the fibers, How can that not bind, I have tested, stuck board together with paper and fuse, let dry and pulled and twisted it apart etc, im happy with it, cant see any problems, seems better than paper so im sold for now, if it goes wrong mudstar you will be the first one i tell :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> With fibrafuse the mud goes through and all around the fibers, How can that not bind, I have tested, stuck board together with paper and fuse, let dry and pulled and twisted it apart etc, im happy with it, cant see any problems, seems better than paper so im sold for now, if it goes wrong mudstar you will be the first one i tell :thumbsup:


nice to see you two are figh.........talking again:jester:


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## cazna

We are mates me and mudstar, mates dont fight..........Much :thumbsup:


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> With fibrafuse the mud goes through and all around the fibers, How can that not bind, I have tested, stuck board together with paper and fuse, let dry and pulled and twisted it apart etc, im happy with it, cant see any problems, seems better than paper so im sold for now, if it goes wrong mudstar you will be the first one i tell :thumbsup:


I'm not sure about that cazna I won't know if it goes wrong in a house I tape because I won't even use it. 

Paper tape works with taping mud and you can't peal it off the wall period, so why would I use fibertape or what ever its called. After all if you put a mile of tape on the wall each and every week you could go on pretty good vacation using paper on the saving compared to this fiber stuff. Don't you need a vacation cazna and when your on vacation you won't have to worrry if paper worked or not.

You might see me somewhere on a club med trippy with all the drinks to make it trippy too.

JS


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## cazna

It cost me $15 extra to use fibafuse instead of papertape for the flats on this house?? 5 rolls at $8 roll, paper is $5 roll = $15 more for an easier, stronger, better drying tape. That $15 is easly made up with ease of wiping down, and much flatter butts.

Dam you must go on some cheap vacations??

Your right about club trippy, is that your favourite place?? $15 would get you a puff then its club trippy here we come


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> It cost me $15 extra to use fibafuse instead of papertape for the flats on this house?? 5 rolls at $8 roll, paper is $5 roll = $15 more for an easier, stronger, better drying tape. That $15 is easly made up with ease of wiping down, and much flatter butts.
> 
> Dam you must go on some cheap vacations??
> 
> Your right about club trippy, is that your favourite place?? $15 would get you a puff then its club trippy here we come



If I had to paid $5 per roll caz I'd quit because your right I might only be able to go to the cottage instead. 

I was talking club med too caz not a jump in the car to see the country side.

:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

I think you both need a vacation ...........together lol:jester:
your going to think I keep defending mudstar but,what he's saying is "If it ain't broke don't fix it"Plus odds are,mudstar piece works like me for big company,and stuff on the side too,In conversations with my boss ,he has lost houses by being 10 or 20 bucks higher than the other guy,we talked fibre fuse,said his average bid would increase by $60,would start losing jobs,only his high end clientele maybe willing to use it
business is business ,let's look at the ford motor company,it was just not the assembly line that made his product affordable,he used the cheapest products that would work,and one colour "black" and paid his workers a fair price ,so they could buy a car too,which expands his market (not like that these days)
so production,low cost,expanding market,ok product,profit...
construction now a days, is like building a Russian Lada with slave labour,then selling it like it's a Rolls Royce.
may a Yank come on here and explain capitalism ,rather than a commie Canuck


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## cazna

Fair enough, Good saying that, If its not broke dont fix it, So is K.I.S.S, Keep it simple stupied.

I really would love to spend a few days working with you guys, just to see how it is with you, must be a tough economic climate you have to miss out on work with small amounts like that, Its not really an issue for me but im in residential homes working direct with homeowners that just want a top job, so thats what i give them, i average 3-4 months work ahead booked up, can be 6 months ahead, all word of mouth so a few bucks for a few extras on materials is no issue to me, Keeps things interesting.

Im just pointing out how i have found a product, thats all, I really dont understand how someone can give such a strong opinion yet wont even try it??? talk about narrow minded, its amazing to me.


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## 2buckcanuck

yeah ,I dont like dealing with home owners,(and I half to tomorrow)they ask too many questions,what time you starting,when you going to be done etc......plus you half to be nice to them...........that sucks.:jester:
new construction a whole different ball game


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## fenez

Home owners pay better and faster and fibafuse leaves the flattest butts ever which saves time which increases profits. I buy it at sherwin williams and its 3.99 a roll. I only use it on butts... it is the best tape for headers and butts.


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## cazna

I had to remove some board today that i taped on monday for the plumber to get some access, great i thought, good chance to really get some force on to the fibafuse and see how much it can handle.

Well its dam tough stuff alright, unscrewed the screws around the edge and pulled up the board, which broke at the glue spots but got a really good 90degree lever at the fibafused taped seem, amazing stuff, even at a 90degree it still didnt crack apart or let go so i figured one good pull and it will rip to fuse out of the top bevel.............. it didnt.......... it still wouldnt let go..........i popped out all the screws and had the bottom of the top sheet busted out from the wall as well.....oops.
So then put one hand on the bottom of the top sheet so i didnt ruin it any further and pulled it from the join with the other hand on the bottom sheet, by this time i asked the homeowner to help me rip it off as well, so the two of us then rippied it free, most of the fuse stayed with the peice we pulled off, it kinda halfed it self, some stayed behind in the join and some came with the sheet we pulled off, it still did not come apart at the centre of the tape, no way is paper tape as strong as that, and no mud fell free or crumpled out of the fuse, Dam fine product Tom, Great work from you and your team developing fibafuse, very impressive indeed :thumbsup:


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> Fair enough, Good saying that, If its not broke dont fix it, So is K.I.S.S, Keep it simple stupied.
> 
> I really would love to spend a few days working with you guys, just to see how it is with you, must be a tough economic climate you have to miss out on work with small amounts like that, Its not really an issue for me but im in residential homes working direct with homeowners that just want a top job, so thats what i give them, i average 3-4 months work ahead booked up, can be 6 months ahead, all word of mouth so a few bucks for a few extras on materials is no issue to me, Keeps things interesting.
> 
> Im just pointing out how i have found a product, thats all, I really dont understand how someone can give such a strong opinion yet wont even try it??? talk about narrow minded, its amazing to me.


Its funny after all this post on this site you have not figured out how to do the job yet or know your tools and besides that wheres you brain?


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> Its funny after all this post on this site you have not figured out how to do the job yet or know your tools and besides that wheres you brain?


You really do post some completely irrelevant nonsence mudstar???
I have called you a pompous arse prick before and your posts like this just keep proving me totally correct with that statement,

Honestly, Were is YOUR brain at mate, whats the point of it????
I think you just get off being a W**K*R.

Hey 2buck, can you go around to to mudstars place and tell him to get get his hand off it, I think one hand is on the keyboard and the other is on his tiny tool?????


Oh quick nathen lock the forum lock the forum love mudstar.


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## Capt-sheetrock

In the words of the King,,,, "can't we all just git along???"

Ahh, I think that was Rodney King tho, on second thought


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## Kiwiman

:boxing: DING DING!!! LLLLLets get ready to Rumble!!!!


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## Tim0282

Canza, do you use it in a bazooka? Doesn't look like it would work so good in a bazooka. Just saying this would be a huge drawback for me. The product sounds great otherwise.


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## proficient Mudder

Tim0282 said:


> Canza, do you use it in a bazooka? Doesn't look like it would work so good in a bazooka. Just saying this would be a huge drawback for me. The product sounds great otherwise.


 I would think it would be very hard to use this on a piece work job as some negatives could be alot of time spent.
I would have to use it in a bazooka to save time and with the tapes design I would think it would be hard for it to be fed into the mud without tearing. I would also think that with blocking corners and pulling in the flats to the angles that a sharp drywall knife would keep tearing into it, unless you take extra precautions. If any of this would be a problem and having the price difference on the tape versus the many paper rolls I would use in a Year. I just don't think that it would work for me, but sounds like a good product for a small remodel, additions or patch work.

Bill


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## Tim0282

Just don't think it would work in the bazooka. And that is the best way to make money with time, speed and quality. Don't see the advantages out wiegh the disadvantages.


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## cazna

Hi Tim

Yes i do run it through my bazooka and it seems fine, ok its not as ridged as paper but i had no trouble feeding it through, didnt change the gooser.

Im not using it for the corners, im using it on the flats/butts, im still on the paper for corners as paper is more suited, as you have heard we are a quake prone country so anything that gives some extra strength is a help. 

Im not a big volume taper as most of you guys maybe as my work is new homes and renovations etc, plus some painting so it may not suit you depending on cost, seems like tight pricing for you guys so every doller counts, but hey, get a roll and give it a go, im finding it great.

One thing i have found helpful is say on a smaller job or hotmuds or on a butt seam, instead of wiping it down with a knife get yourself a small paint roller, those 75mm wide by 50mm high ones, with a 5mm nap mohiar or foam sleeve and roll the fuse down with that then wipe a coat over it, it really gets the fuse pushed back well and makes for a very flat butt seam.
And a wallpaper seam roller for those small hard to get butt seams, you can even roll accross it and it really stays put, not like paper that can skid around on you. :thumbsup:


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## DSJOHN

I remember when No-Coat came out,I thought what a home owner pos---then I used some on a long slope of about 15degrees and was sold.I used fiba-fuse after MikeNH told me about it and I dont think I,ll tape an entire house out but it works great on patches and butts and flats,especially small jobs---try it you,ll be sold!!!!!FYI Ive been taping for 31yrs and seen all things come and go,,I,m sold on this product as I am on paperfaced metal,No-coat[450] vinyl arch bead ,ez sand and PC sander.


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## Kiwiman

Just a bit of useless information...Our house got a good shake-up from an earthquake the other day, and I mean a "really" good shake (mag 7.1 50km away). I used 3 different tapes in our house and there's no cracks at all...Paper, Mesh, and Fibafuse. I also checked up on some past jobs and no problems at all, it actually would have been good to see some tapes fail just for comparison.


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## JustMe

fenez said:


> capt. I tried fibafuse, it is the same exact install and finish as conventional taping there are no skipped steps. I believe the only difference is that it leaves flatter seams and butts.


I threw a micrometer on a piece of Fibafuse and paper. The paper measured out at 8 thou, which is what I got when I did it to paper once before. The Fibafuse piece measured between 7 1/2 to 10 thou in different spots. If it's laying flatter, maybe it compresses when installed, including when the mud dries and shrinks? &/or maybe mud isn't sitting behind it as much, but more in between strands?

I did tape out a house with it fairly recently, including angles, to give it a test, and the fellow running the job asked about it/supplied it. It came out of the bazooka nice enough, cut nice, and laid down nice. No ripples or anything. 

Got to watch the tape advance needle, though. It can rip, and did a bit at times. Probably good idea about putting something like an eraser on it

I'd use Fibafuse again on the flats. The butt joints, I'm not quite as sure about. Maybe/probably. But next time I'd use a paint roller instead of a knife to 'wipe' them down, and clean up excess mud (a bit carefully) with a knife. Too easy to cut it otherwise, if butt ends are pushing the Fiba up a bit.

Corners, I'd use paper. At least for now, till I maybe got more used to working with Fiba.


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## JustMe

And itch. I forgot about the itching I got with Fibafuse.

BUt, no bubbles or any other problems like that anywhere with the Fibafuse.

Still waiting to see if there'll be any issues from any tearing, though.


----------



## Tim0282

Does it itch because of the fibers in it? Long sleeves, gloves, masks, hat, goggles, Tyvek suit, just to string the tape?


----------



## JustMe

Maybe.

I did wonder a bit about what kind of/amount of fibers might be floating in the air from it. I don't know what might be any health effects from longer term exposure.


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## Tim0282

Another thing to consider.


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## JustMe

If he's still posting, maybe the product development manager from Fibafuse could see if they have any data on it.


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## FibaFuse

JustMe said:


> If he's still posting, maybe the product development manager from Fibafuse could see if they have any data on it.


Sorry for not posting in a while. The fiber size in FibaFuse is large enough not to cause adverse respiratory health effects. If you feel personally uncomfortable with the dust you could wear a mask similar to what you would use for finish sanding. The glass dust will cause skin irritation to some people. If that is the case light gloves and long sleeved shirts should be warnd to minimize exposure.


----------



## FibaFuse

cazna said:


> I had to remove some board today that i taped on monday for the plumber to get some access, great i thought, good chance to really get some force on to the fibafuse and see how much it can handle.
> 
> Well its dam tough stuff alright, unscrewed the screws around the edge and pulled up the board, which broke at the glue spots but got a really good 90degree lever at the fibafused taped seem, amazing stuff, even at a 90degree it still didnt crack apart or let go so i figured one good pull and it will rip to fuse out of the top bevel.............. it didnt.......... it still wouldnt let go..........i popped out all the screws and had the bottom of the top sheet busted out from the wall as well.....oops.
> So then put one hand on the bottom of the top sheet so i didnt ruin it any further and pulled it from the join with the other hand on the bottom sheet, by this time i asked the homeowner to help me rip it off as well, so the two of us then rippied it free, most of the fuse stayed with the peice we pulled off, it kinda halfed it self, some stayed behind in the join and some came with the sheet we pulled off, it still did not come apart at the centre of the tape, no way is paper tape as strong as that, and no mud fell free or crumpled out of the fuse, Dam fine product Tom, Great work from you and your team developing fibafuse, very impressive indeed :thumbsup:


Awesome story!!! We were confident the product was strong but proof is in real life application - or in this case destruction.


----------



## FibaFuse

JustMe said:


> I threw a micrometer on a piece of Fibafuse and paper. The paper measured out at 8 thou, which is what I got when I did it to paper once before. The Fibafuse piece measured between 7 1/2 to 10 thou in different spots. If it's laying flatter, maybe it compresses when installed, including when the mud dries and shrinks? &/or maybe mud isn't sitting behind it as much, but more in between strands?
> 
> I did tape out a house with it fairly recently, including angles, to give it a test, and the fellow running the job asked about it/supplied it. It came out of the bazooka nice enough, cut nice, and laid down nice. No ripples or anything.
> 
> Got to watch the tape advance needle, though. It can rip, and did a bit at times. Probably good idea about putting something like an eraser on it
> 
> I'd use Fibafuse again on the flats. The butt joints, I'm not quite as sure about. Maybe/probably. But next time I'd use a paint roller instead of a knife to 'wipe' them down, and clean up excess mud (a bit carefully) with a knife. Too easy to cut it otherwise, if butt ends are pushing the Fiba up a bit.
> 
> Corners, I'd use paper. At least for now, till I maybe got more used to working with Fiba.


You're right, FibaFuse is thicker than paper. However, it does sit tighter against the wall because its very porous compared with paper. In other words the mud oozes through it - paper can't do that - it’s more of a sandwich effect... mud/paper/mud. Mud covers all fibers in FibaFuse - that integration helps with the cracking strength.


----------



## FibaFuse

cazna said:


> Hi Tim
> 
> Yes i do run it through my bazooka and it seems fine, ok its not as ridged as paper but i had no trouble feeding it through, didnt change the gooser.
> 
> Im not using it for the corners, im using it on the flats/butts, im still on the paper for corners as paper is more suited, as you have heard we are a quake prone country so anything that gives some extra strength is a help.
> 
> Im not a big volume taper as most of you guys maybe as my work is new homes and renovations etc, plus some painting so it may not suit you depending on cost, seems like tight pricing for you guys so every doller counts, but hey, get a roll and give it a go, im finding it great.
> 
> One thing i have found helpful is say on a smaller job or hotmuds or on a butt seam, instead of wiping it down with a knife get yourself a small paint roller, those 75mm wide by 50mm high ones, with a 5mm nap mohiar or foam sleeve and roll the fuse down with that then wipe a coat over it, it really gets the fuse pushed back well and makes for a very flat butt seam.
> And a wallpaper seam roller for those small hard to get butt seams, you can even roll accross it and it really stays put, not like paper that can skid around on you. :thumbsup:


Cazna, i think the nap roller is a great idea. It embed the tape but doesn't tear it. I think I'm going to design a nap roller for inside corners. that would help solve the tearing issue - but would anybody use it???


----------



## FibaFuse

cazna said:


> Yeah seen that clip many times.
> 
> Now Tom, why have you been marketing the fibrefuse saying you need to remove the gooser needle and finger feed through the bazooka???
> I used it today and it ran just fine, no problems at all, in fact it was just as easy if not easier than paper, i didnt take the gooser needle off my goldblatt G2, its a sharp needle and i had a little peice of rubber handy to try ricks trick if i needed too but i didnt, it worked great.
> 
> I cant see me going back to paper now for the flats, fuse is much better, stronger, better drying, better on butts, nice to wipe down, great through bazooka or banjo, great with hot muds or taping or all purpose, dosent absorb water so dosent swell as paper can. Great product.


During the testing phase of the product it was evident that the gooser needle had a tendency to tear FibaFuse. Although it didn't happen all the time, I felt it was appropriate to make users aware of this issue just because I didn't have a large test population. Now that a year has passed, I found the tearing issue is much lower than anticipated. That's great news of course but it’s still there nonetheless. Being upfront with drawbacks on a product can either scare people away or they think of ways to solve it. In this case bazooka tapers found a plausible solution - a rubber piece covering the needle. Last year I was actually approached by an automatic tool manufacturer to create a retro kit that would include a small piece of rubber. That said, we never completed the kit because the frequency of the issue was smaller than anticipated.

For those that don't have the tearing issue with the gooser needle, please feel free to post your solution. Maybe you're doing nothing differently, maybe its a dull needle that your using. What type of tool do you use? Does a certain brand of tool do better than others?


----------



## FibaFuse

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I watched the video,, and I still don't see where its an improvement. Like 2buck said,,, the tape may be mold resistantant, but the mud and drywall is not. If it won't feed with a gooser, bazooka operatorers will never use it. That being said, where does this product improve over paper tape?? Why are people always looking for a way to re-place paper tape instead of just learning how to use it???
> 
> Maybe I'm missing something here, but then again, I know how to use paper tape.


I am also getting positive feedback on FibaFuse from others outside of this forum. The feedback is great but if people don't continue to buy it then we won't sell it. Fortunately people are putting their money where their mouth is because it is selling well. 

I certainly respect your decision not to try it. If you want I will send you a roll; try it for free. You might realize that the comments you are hearing from others are true. If you don't like it then feel free to bash it on this forum.


----------



## kgphoto

JustMe said:


> I'd use Fibafuse again on the flats. The butt joints, I'm not quite as sure about. Maybe/probably. But next time I'd use a paint roller instead of a knife to 'wipe' them down, and clean up excess mud (a bit carefully) with a knife. Too easy to cut it otherwise, if butt ends are pushing the Fiba up a bit.
> 
> .


I am not sure I understand how you are cutting the Fiba Fuse. I haven't seen any issue on butts or flats, even when they intersect. It may be because I use hot mud and it has stiffened up some by then, as I do the butts first and then fill the tapers.

The only time I have cut it was when there was a gap in the corner and I didn't prefill and let harden before applying the Fibafuse. Simply by wiping a little more carefully, it didn't happen again. This was all hand taping, by the way.


----------



## cazna

FibaFuse said:


> During the testing phase of the product it was evident that the gooser needle had a tendency to tear FibaFuse. Although it didn't happen all the time, I felt it was appropriate to make users aware of this issue just because I didn't have a large test population. Now that a year has passed, I found the tearing issue is much lower than anticipated. That's great news of course but it’s still there nonetheless. Being upfront with drawbacks on a product can either scare people away or they think of ways to solve it. In this case bazooka tapers found a plausible solution - a rubber piece covering the needle. Last year I was actually approached by an automatic tool manufacturer to create a retro kit that would include a small piece of rubber. That said, we never completed the kit because the frequency of the issue was smaller than anticipated.
> 
> For those that don't have the tearing issue with the gooser needle, please feel free to post your solution. Maybe you're doing nothing differently, maybe its a dull needle that your using. What type of tool do you use? Does a certain brand of tool do better than others?


Hi Tom, Welcome back.
I had some small 3mm thick peices of rubber that i punched out to 5mm rounds with a hole punch, i pushed them onto the gooser and messed about with it, i found that if it was just sitting on the needle it didnt go very well but if i pushed it through more so say 2mm of needle was sticking out then yes this did help a little, but not a lot, the only time i riped the fuse with needle was when i tryed to goose up some more fuse, like when i didnt leave enough tab and it just got slighty hooked up in the top of the bazooka, i think i did this 4 times during a house full of flats, Im certianly no bazooka pro and find i do this with paper sometimes as well, I found using the fuse for bazooka taping flats easier as it sticks better than the paper, ie lid flats, it just layed on better and much easier to wipe down, the first roll of fuse i used i found it a little ichy but it does not bother me now, and another plus with the fuse is the weight, a loaded zooka with a full roll of fuse is lighter than a full roll of paper, but i did get some more back spin though.
All in all i feel its a vast improvement on paper and will continue using it, i had an easier day taping flats with the fuse instead for paper and you can really see the mud drying all the way through the seams, it sits flatter and is stronger. :thumbup::thumbsup:


----------



## JustMe

I did some 10' standups yesterday in a couple conference rooms, using Fibafuse and my new Columbia tube with flat applicator (to give the tube a try. Nice.) I wanted to see how much better and faster things might dry with Fiba, vs. paper.

I taped till 9:30 A.M., using taping mud, then ran a 2 ft. square floor fan in each room. I 10" boxed same day, starting at 1:30 and finishing a little after 2.

I went back this morning to box 2nd coat. There was so little shrinkage along the seams, where the bevels meet, that I might as well say it was non-existent.

I'll be using Fiba again for any jobs where I'm given little time to get things done. Wore gloves this time while handling it, but it still got me itching a bit.


----------



## cazna

Fibafuse seems to be tougher and less prone to fuzzing or tearing now tom, Has it been changed a little?? Seems easier to use and cuts and feeds better in zooka, I did 5 rolls with no jambing, a tab everytime and less loose fibres about. :thumbsup: So easy to wipe down it feels like cheating :yes:


----------



## Tim0282

And if you put a little Mud Max or white glue in the mud, it makes it even easier to wipe down! About three tablespoons is all you need. Amazing the difference. Wondering about using Fibafuse in the summer. Itchy... Sure like it though!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Fibafuse seems to be tougher and less prone to fuzzing or tearing now tom, Has it been changed a little?? Seems easier to use and cuts and feeds better in zooka, I did 5 rolls with no jambing, a tab everytime and less loose fibres about. :thumbsup: So easy to wipe down it feels like cheating :yes:


So has fibafuse contacted you to be a sales representative yet ,,,Cazna


----------



## chris

*Right On*

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


Capt-sheetrock said:


> Probbly cause I'm an old grouchy guy.
> 
> However, if water damage is the problem,,, this stuff won't help either (if your using drywall mud).
> 
> The reason I stated that way is this,,
> 
> 1) mesh users like mesh cause they don't know how to handle paper
> 2) Fiber-fuse is an atttempt to get paper tape users to try a mesh-like alternative.
> 3)mesh and fibe-fuse are an attempt to help you skip a step,,, and wheather you believe in the tooth fairy or not,,, you cannot skip a step in the drywall process and come out with an acceptable product.
> 
> I know the "belivers" will not agree, but thats okay too.
> Grandma had a saying "don't pee down my back and tell me its raining"


 my thoughts exactly


----------



## boco

Not a huge fan of fibafuse. but the new fibertape ultra thin is a pretty good product. It sure is fast and saves on mud. the problem with paper tape is that it has a tendency to swell after being primed when used with fire and tuff rock. For these applications i use the ultra thin mesh and for jobs that need to be completed in 5 days or less. i think the quality is there for sure. butts require way less mud and seams fill like theres no tape there. Paper tape is great dont get me wrong but the new mesh tapes will make you money. Personally i think if your a piece worker and your not using mesh for garages , basements, and closets your still in the 1980s.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

boco said:


> Not a huge fan of fibafuse. but the new fibertape ultra thin is a pretty good product. It sure is fast and saves on mud. the problem with paper tape is that it has a tendency to swell after being primed when used with fire and tuff rock. For these applications i use the ultra thin mesh and for jobs that need to be completed in 5 days or less. i think the quality is there for sure. butts require way less mud and seams fill like theres no tape there. Paper tape is great dont get me wrong but the new mesh tapes will make you money. Personally i think if your a piece worker and your not using mesh for garages , basements, and closets your still in the 1980s.


I made a lot more money in the eighties than I do now.

ding,ding, :boxing:I'm bored
mesh is only a adhesive tape, just like duct tape is, while mud with paper tape creates a chemical reaction which makes a bond, big difference.

Or mesh is like using rivets well paper tape is like welding..........

Actually......I'm sick of this DIY debate,, his the link http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/paper-mesh-48/ and http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/mesh-tape-mud-1485/


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> Actually......I'm sick of this DIY debate,, his the link http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/paper-mesh-48/ and http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/mesh-tape-mud-1485/


My thoughts exactly


----------



## VANMAN

Well i taped a house last week with Fiba-Fuse! Really liked it no probs going through the gun with the needle still in! Bit of a cheat cause i 2 boxed the place and its perfect and not a chance of the tape sinking later cause it all drys together which is good!Only problem i have is the price(I can buy it cheaper from USA All-Wall delivered 2 Scotland) Than i can from here!!!!!!!! I would like Fiba-Fuse 2 deal direct with me.. Hint!!!!!!


----------



## SlimPickins

I've been breaking out the Fuse more and more lately, primarily due to the way it virtually disappears when you wipe it down. I noticed something weird yesterday too.... I was flat taping a tub with it (no paper=no mold), and I slid my knife the wrong way to get in the angle and it sheared the Fuse off...the stuff was like a brittle sheet after the mud got in it. Not that it makes a bit of difference, I was just surprised to how it changed structurally after taking on a bit of mud.


----------



## carpentaper

i like your new avatar cazna. it's because of pictures like that, that my daughter shouts " i can see zealand!! cousin teo is in zealand" every time she sees a snow capped mountain with the ocean below. which if any one has been to vancouver knows is a common sight. back on topic. i've been using fibafuse for those real nasty lath and plaster to new drywall transitions. i also taped all the cracks in some old plaster walls before skimming. i think it is a great product and i always keep some around but i still use paper for most of my taping.


----------



## cazna

Hi Carp, Thats fiordland, Milford sound, The water is incredably deep and becouse it has a very high rainfall it has a 2 metre (12f) fresh water layer on top of the salt water creating some amazing sea life and diving, My father use to crayfish those areas, Amazing isnt it, Thats a world heritage park now. The gully is called sinbads gully becouse an old gold prospecter went looking for gold and never found any, so said Sinbad must have have taken it all. It caught on.


----------



## Kiwiman

I see the EQC (earthquake commission) are recommending Fibafuse for repairs to quake damage....Make you wonder why Winstones never took it on board.


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> I see the EQC (earthquake commission) are recommending Fibafuse for repairs to quake damage....Make you wonder why Winstones never took it on board.


I shall take it apon myself to find out :yes:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> I shall take it apon myself to find out :yes:


 Carefull now,,,, remember where the study of sheep got ya!!!!!!


----------



## FibaFuse

*New Zealand EQC and FibaFuse*



Kiwiman said:


> I see the EQC (earthquake commission) are recommending Fibafuse for repairs to quake damage....Make you wonder why Winstones never took it on board.


Do you a link to the web article that mentions this?


----------



## Kiwiman

FibaFuse said:


> Do you a link to the web article that mentions this?


 No, actually it was boasted by a supplier advertising the fact, Cazna has been doing some research and it turns out it could be a false claim on the suppliers part, one of us will post the findings.


----------



## Tim0282

Good tape regardless! Sure a lot easier to wipe down than paper. And I like the way it integrates into the mud.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Checked it out ...*



walltools said:


> We posted a FibaFuse video up on our new blog page. Check it out and share some of your thoughts on the blog: http://www.walltools.com/store/blog/


Production, production, production, productivity. I've read the comments on this thread and it is firing on all cylinders ... the past meets the future in the present. Speed is enhanced with confidence in a product. If it does not stretch like paper tape, if it does not ridge like paper tape, if it does not swell like paper tape, if it does not crack on corners and butts like mesh tape, if it can be used in a Bazooka like paper tape ... let's have at it. Time could be saved with the ability to 7 or 10 box this product immediately after taping and if rolled tight and gauged light in the angles ... yeah baby!!! The conformance to quality "is what it is", time is the only constant, time is the common denominator of all other values ... the meter is running ... if it gets me to where I want to be when I want to be there, I'm interested.


----------



## Jason

Field General said:


> the past meets the future in the present


FG, you crack me up!


----------



## cazna

FG i think your in the wrong trade, You would make a good Saleman or public speaker with your amourment of words :thumbsup: Thats a comment by the way :yes: I could do with those skills sometimes.


Ok well im on thin ice here so i hope i dont screw this up and maybe i shouldnt even try but i should finish what i started anyway.

I spoke to a rep from Winstones and it seems there postition on Fibafuse is its early days and there not rushing in to claim anything yet.

Its being over hyped here in NZ with all the earthquake damage repair work going on, Claims like its can repair broken board and if bracing board seams are cracked then you can just fibafuse over it, Both are Questionable.

Yes if used in the right manner its a strong tape, Example, not overthinning and using correct muds, But i think its being claimed its 75% stronger..............Than Mesh tape that is, Its being confused as being 75% stronger than paper which again is questionable.

And the EQC is not in a position to recommend any product.

I hope that reply is ok, Man im treading on thin ice repeating a companys words, Not a comfortable thing for little me to do at all. 

Please feel free to correct me if im wrong Winstones :yes:


----------



## fr8train

Field General said:


> Production, production, production, productivity. I've read the comments on this thread and it is firing on all cylinders ... the past meets the future in the present. Speed is enhanced with confidence in a product. If it does not stretch like paper tape, if it does not ridge like paper tape, if it does not swell like paper tape, if it does not crack on corners and butts like mesh tape, if it can be used in a Bazooka like paper tape ... let's have at it. Time could be saved with the ability to 7 or 10 box this product immediately after taping and if rolled tight and gauged light in the angles ... yeah baby!!! The conformance to quality "is what it is", time is the only constant, time is the common denominator of all other values ... the meter is running ... if it gets me to where I want to be when I want to be there, I'm interested.


 LOL! When I read this, it was in the voice of Gunny from Mail Call!


----------



## Kiwiman

I have to say I really am liking using it, I use 90min hot mud and never had any problems, I did have a problem tho when I tried all purpose mud with it, for some reason the tape peaked out on some wall seams after the 2nd coat, the peaks were all about 1 metre long (3ft) and all around the same area of the house, I don't think I could blame the tape (dunno) it almost seemed like the edge of the sheets had something spilt on them while stacked because the problem area was about the same distance from the end of the sheet on all of them, I sent Tom a PM about it at the time but I never heard back, Anyone else experienced this issue?


----------



## VANMAN

*Peaked seams*



Kiwiman said:


> I have to say I really am liking using it, I use 90min hot mud and never had any problems, I did have a problem tho when I tried all purpose mud with it, for some reason the tape peaked out on some wall seams after the 2nd coat, the peaks were all about 1 metre long (3ft) and all around the same area of the house, I don't think I could blame the tape (dunno) it almost seemed like the edge of the sheets had something spilt on them while stacked because the problem area was about the same distance from the end of the sheet on all of them, I sent Tom a PM about it at the time but I never heard back, Anyone else experienced this issue?


 Hi there Kiwi!
Yea i had the same problem in an office i did! Only 2 joints and they had a little ridge in the center,I thought after a sand they would go but still there and had 2 fix them
I just did a whole house with the stuff again and not a problem at all:yes:
The only thing i did dif was 2 go round the house and prefill any joints i thought were a bit wide with r/m before i started taping! Seems 2 have done the job so i believe the joints i had trouble with might not have had enough filler in the joint!:thumbsup:


----------



## Kiwiman

VANMAN said:


> Hi there Kiwi!
> Yea i had the same problem in an office i did! Only 2 joints and they had a little ridge in the center,I thought after a sand they would go but still there and had 2 fix them
> I just did a whole house with the stuff again and not a problem at all:yes:
> The only thing i did dif was 2 go round the house and prefill any joints i thought were a bit wide with r/m before i started taping! Seems 2 have done the job so i believe the joints i had trouble with might not have had enough filler in the joint!:thumbsup:


I used the bazooka to tape my ones, the sheets were tight and plenty of mud underneath, I didn't try sanding them, I just scraped it out and taped it again, that was probably 5 or 6 months ago and it has only just recently been painted, I was told last week it was a brilliant job done so I'm relieved there weren't any further problems. Although we have been getting earthquakes here as well so there's too many variables to say what may have caused it to peak, it was like a compression peak on the horizontals but it didn't pop out until it got wet with the 2nd coat of mud, which is strange because Fibafuse is unnaffected by moisture.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Kiwiman said:


> I used the bazooka to tape my ones, the sheets were tight and plenty of mud underneath, I didn't try sanding them, I just scraped it out and taped it again, that was probably 5 or 6 months ago and it has only just recently been painted, I was told last week it was a brilliant job done so I'm relieved there weren't any further problems. Although we have been getting earthquakes here as well so there's too many variables to say what may have caused it to peak, it was like a compression peak on the horizontals but it didn't pop out until it got wet with the 2nd coat of mud, which is strange because Fibafuse is unnaffected by moisture.


Why even lay tape where you live, just start coating and blame everything on the earthquakes when it cracks.:whistling2:

Sounds Like 2 things or 2 guesses here, one is abusive rockers, dropping the sheeps too hard on the floors, if on concrete for example, just general bad man handling of the sheeps, making the bevell blister or crumble . Or it came straight from the manufacturer with a bad bevell.

Sounds like what a butt does when they don't cut the loose paper off, and you get a spit line with the tape. So if you taped with a hot mud, it would of made things more rigid . but the fibafuse with the AP mud, the fibafuse may be water resistant, But the AP mud will cause the loose paper or bad bevell to cause a swell.

But if you pre-fill 1st, then any form of bad spots on the sheeps will appear, then you can deal with them accordingly


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Why even lay tape where you live, just start coating and blame everything on the earthquakes when it cracks.:whistling2:
> 
> Sounds Like 2 things or 2 guesses here, one is abusive rockers, dropping the sheeps too hard on the floors, if on concrete for example, just general bad man handling of the sheeps, making the bevell blister or crumble . Or it came straight from the manufacturer with a bad bevell.
> 
> Sounds like what a butt does when they don't cut the loose paper off, and you get a spit line with the tape. So if you taped with a hot mud, it would of made things more rigid . but the fibafuse with the AP mud, the fibafuse may be water resistant, But the AP mud will cause the loose paper or bad bevell to cause a swell.
> 
> But if you pre-fill 1st, then any form of bad spots on the sheeps will appear, then you can deal with them accordingly


 Thanks 2Buck, there's nothing worse than damaged ...."Sheeps".


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> FG i think your in the wrong trade, You would make a good Saleman or public speaker with your amourment of words Thats a comment by the way I could do with those skills sometimes.
> 
> 
> Ok well im on thin ice here so i hope i dont screw this up and maybe i shouldnt even try but i should finish what i started anyway.
> 
> I spoke to a rep from Winstones and it seems there postition on Fibafuse is its early days and there not rushing in to claim anything yet.
> 
> Its being over hyped here in NZ with all the earthquake damage repair work going on, Claims like its can repair broken board and if bracing board seams are cracked then you can just fibafuse over it, Both are Questionable.
> 
> Yes if used in the right manner its a strong tape, Example, not overthinning and using correct muds, But i think its being claimed its 75% stronger..............Than Mesh tape that is, Its being confused as being 75% stronger than paper which again is questionable.
> 
> And the EQC is not in a position to recommend any product.
> 
> I hope that reply is ok, Man im treading on thin ice repeating a companys words, Not a comfortable thing for little me to do at all.
> 
> Please feel free to correct me if im wrong Winstones :yes:


Speaking of Winstones, a building inspector had a look at a house I'm doing today, next thing you know the H/O is telling me he got a ring from the building inspector saying your plasterer is using Fibafuse tape and not the Winstones brand and did he realize he will lose any warranties because I'm not using their product.... WTF!!! what business is it of Winstones to dictate what products someone else uses, sheeting and finishing are two seperate entities, what next...Paint??? same applies if you don't use their brand of screws & glue but thats more closely related to sheets and how they are fitted, 
I don't like it when large companies like this write their own rules so homeowners aren't afforded superior products to theirs, Winstones have become very monopolizing and no sir...I don't like it :furious:.
But luckily in this case the H/O is no stranger to the building industry and said he would rather trust his plasterer :thumbsup:.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

Kiwiman said:


> Speaking of Winstones, a building inspector had a look at a house I'm doing today, next thing you know the H/O is telling me he got a ring from the building inspector saying your plasterer is using Fibafuse tape and not the Winstones brand and did he realize he will lose any warranties because I'm not using their product.... WTF!!! what business is it of Winstones to dictate what products someone else uses, sheeting and finishing are two seperate entities, what next...Paint??? same applies if you don't use their brand of screws & glue but thats more closely related to sheets and how they are fitted,
> I don't like it when large companies like this write their own rules so homeowners aren't afforded superior products to theirs, Winstones have become very monopolizing and no sir...I don't like it :furious:.
> But luckily in this case the H/O is no stranger to the building industry and said he would rather trust his plasterer :thumbsup:.


Give us a cpl more years Kiwi,,,, we are headed in that very direction ourselves.:yes:


----------



## moore

Yes we are capt. I hear they want all building codes the same nation wide.
Is this true?http://www.drywalltalk.com/images/smilies/blink.gif


----------



## rhardman

I know in Oregon, a 1 hour fire wall is 5/8 inch rock, flat taped tight.
In Bellingham, Wa it's 2 layers 5/8 with each layer flat taped...
In BC/Mission area it's 5/8, flat tape and then some fire caulking applied around every opening. :blink:


----------



## gazman

Welcome to our world. We have three major manufacturers if you mix and match board, base, glue, ap. Your waranty is gone, because they will each blame the other for the fault. :furious:


----------



## chris

rhardman said:


> I know in Oregon, a 1 hour fire wall is 5/8 inch rock, flat taped tight.
> In Bellingham, Wa it's 2 layers 5/8 with each layer flat taped...
> In BC/Mission area it's 5/8, flat tape and then some fire caulking applied around every opening. :blink:


Rick,have you ever done any work for JEM


----------



## SlimPickins

rhardman said:


> I know in Oregon, a 1 hour fire wall is 5/8 inch rock, flat taped tight.
> In Bellingham, Wa it's 2 layers 5/8 with each layer flat taped...
> In BC/Mission area it's 5/8, flat tape and then some fire caulking applied around every opening. :blink:


Darn right, and that's the way it should be!:whistling2:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

now you guys know why I drink beer


----------



## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> now you guys know why I drink beer


I know! I know! Because it's there?


----------



## JustMe

Capt-sheetrock said:


> now you guys know why I drink beer


C'mon, Capt. If your banjo strings broke, I'm betting you'd use that as an excuse to drink beer.


----------



## moore

Kiwiman said:


> Thanks 2Buck, there's nothing worse than damaged ...."Sheeps".


he is right about those spit lines ..


----------



## cazna

JustMe said:


> C'mon, Capt. If your banjo strings broke, I'm betting you'd use that as an excuse to drink beer.


:thumbup: Lol, Do you have any idea what part of the male body a banjo string is called here, Clue??? You can break it if you pull out to far.:yes:


----------



## Kiwiman

I said on a thread somewhere (can't find it) I would post the results of a job I did using Fibafuse, it was a new home built for relocating, I used Fibafuse and 90min hot mud for the tapecoat, sheetrock midweight with papertape for the corners, and straightflex on the offsets, and the results are in .....it was relocated and no cracks :thumbsup:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> I said on a thread somewhere (can't find it) I would post the results of a job I did using Fibafuse, it was a new home built for relocating, I used Fibafuse and 90min hot mud for the tapecoat, sheetrock midweight with papertape for the corners, and straightflex on the offsets, and the results are in .....it was relocated and no cracks :thumbsup:


 
Sweet, Now thats the hell test if ever there was a test for the fuse :yes: Good to hear.


----------



## chris

cazna said:


> Sweet, Now thats the hell test if ever there was a test for the fuse :yes: Good to hear.


wust have been a seasoned moving crew...kinda hard to believe


----------



## Kiwiman

Kiwiman said:


> I said on a thread somewhere (can't find it) I would post the results of a job I did using Fibafuse, it was a new home built for relocating, I used Fibafuse and 90min hot mud for the tapecoat, sheetrock midweight with papertape for the corners, and straightflex on the offsets, and the results are in .....it was relocated and no cracks :thumbsup:


Sorry guys, seems I was informed wrong, because I was told there was no cracking (by a blind man) I didn't bother having a look at the job after it was relocated, I was called out to do repairs on it today and guess what.....NO JOINTS CRACKED, but what did fail was the board (Winstones), about a dozen breaks in the board especially diagonal ones coming away from the windows, hell, there was even a break in the middle of a sheet in one place, also on a dividing wall the plaster cornice broke away, there was obviously a huge amount of movement going on and the Fibafuse passed with flying colours, Thanks Tom, great product :thumbsup:


----------



## moore

Kiwiman said:


> Sorry guys, seems I was informed wrong, because I was told there was no cracking (by a blind man) I didn't bother having a look at the job after it was relocated, I was called out to do repairs on it today and guess what.....NO JOINTS CRACKED, but what did fail was the board (Winstones), about a dozen breaks in the board especially diagonal ones coming away from the windows, hell, there was even a break in the middle of a sheet in one place, also on a dividing wall the plaster cornice broke away, there was obviously a huge amount of movement going on and the Fibafuse passed with flying colours, Thanks Tom, great product :thumbsup:


That's some strong tape. 

...And people ask me why I tape my [email protected] with 90:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> ...And people ask me why I tape my [email protected] with 90:whistling2:


So crack heads can have a crack house to live in:whistling2:






I couldn't resist Moore:thumbup:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Sorry guys, seems I was informed wrong, because I was told there was no cracking (by a blind man) I didn't bother having a look at the job after it was relocated, I was called out to do repairs on it today and guess what.....NO JOINTS CRACKED, but what did fail was the board (Winstones), about a dozen breaks in the board especially diagonal ones coming away from the windows, hell, there was even a break in the middle of a sheet in one place, also on a dividing wall the plaster cornice broke away, there was obviously a huge amount of movement going on and the Fibafuse passed with flying colours, Thanks Tom, great product :thumbsup:


 
That sounds good but odd?? Im not so sure about there new board, It seems soft.


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> That sounds good but odd?? Im not so sure about there new board, It seems soft.


 Actually now you mention it there was no damage to the areas with aqualine (green board) which is a lot stronger, that new stuff Caz has got fibres in it now, I think they've gone lower density but added fibres instead.
I should mention that everything was glued and screwed, for the external corners I used metal bead stapled on, papertape & midweight for the internals, straightflex for the offsets, tradeset and Fibafuse for flats and butts, I gap the butts first, Midweight for 2nd & 3rd coats.


----------



## Mudshark

*FibaFuse vs Paper*

 Good thread and a good read to better understand FibaFuse. 

Appreciate the testing done "down under" and your support of the product. :beta1:

Don't want to be seen as keeping my head in the sand and not embracing new ideas but until I see a lot more of its use around here I will continue to support the use of paper tape.  If it aint broke don't fix it.


----------



## Kiwiman

Mudshark said:


> Good thread and a good read to better understand FibaFuse.
> 
> Appreciate the testing done "down under" and your support of the product. :beta1:
> 
> Don't want to be seen as keeping my head in the sand and not embracing new ideas but until I see a lot more of its use around here I will continue to support the use of paper tape.  If it aint broke don't fix it.


It's becoming increasingly popular down here, ideal for earthquake repairs, I was sold on it when I did that new relocatable house where the board broke but the Fibafuse didn't, for the board to twist and break goes to show you how much movement it can stand up to. Also ideal for small repairs where you can put 3 coats on at once and the tape doesn't suck back in because it's not affected by moisture like papertape....and I think thats one point to Fibafuse


----------



## Tim0282

I agree with you. It is good stuff! And the 3 foot rolls are great for repairing big stuff.


----------



## SlimPickins

I've been starting to play with the stuff more and more lately.

Here are the reasons I like it:


lays flatter than paper
less bumpy than mesh
mold/mildew resistant
faster dry time
sandability (don't overdo it of course!)
You can see potential blister areas as you're wiping
Why I don't like it:


tears too easily to be used everywhere
itchy
doesn't make me a cup of coffee in the morning


----------



## icerock drywall

faster dry time :yes: ...we should do a time study on that

paper V ff ....


----------



## fr8train

the little bit that I've messed with it, I've noticed a few things.

1. runs through my taper without a problem.
2. effortless picking of 3-ways
3. does seem to dry faster
4. I get fiberglass in my fingers 

All in all, seems like a good product. Like so many of the products we use in construction these days, time will tell. We were just talking along these lines yesterday. PA thinks there might be a class action lawsuit against the light weight board after a few years. (we've been having "some" issues with it). But that's for another thread


----------



## A smooth finish

I have been having trouble with my Fuse recently. If im putting it on by hand. That it wants to rip when Im pulling it tight. Has anyone else had this issue.


----------



## thefinisher

A smooth finish said:


> I have been having trouble with my Fuse recently. If im putting it on by hand. That it wants to rip when Im pulling it tight. Has anyone else had this issue.


If your talking corners then that is the nature of the beast. Fuse doesn't like to be hand wiped in the corners. If it is on the joints then you are either wiping way to hard or your mud is too thick.


----------



## Kiwiman

A smooth finish said:


> I have been having trouble with my Fuse recently. If im putting it on by hand. That it wants to rip when Im pulling it tight. Has anyone else had this issue.


Like thefinisher said, it's the nature of the beast (corners and flats), it has to be thin mud so it bleeds throught the fibres better and you won't have to pull it so tight, careful on sharp edged butt joints because it will cut through it if wiping too tight, you're best to cut a small bevel on the butt.


----------



## Kiwiman

fr8train said:


> the little bit that I've messed with it, I've noticed a few things.
> 
> 1. runs through my taper without a problem.
> 2. effortless picking of 3-ways
> 3. does seem to dry faster
> 4. I get fiberglass in my fingers
> 
> All in all, seems like a good product. Like so many of the products we use in construction these days, *time will tell*. We were just talking along these lines yesterday. PA thinks there might be a class action lawsuit against the light weight board after a few years. (we've been having "some" issues with it). But that's for another thread


I looked it up recently because I wasn't sure how long but I've been using it for 3 years now and I can't say I've had to go back and fix anything, I've had the odd teething problem working with it but once you know how to use it you won't want to buy another roll of paper (or mesh).


----------



## thefinisher

The 3' wide rolls of fibafuse are even better :yes:. That stuff has saved me more than once. I have gone into a house to do a say 8"x8" patch and didn't have any rock so I did a double layer of fibafuse matting with 5 minute in between and it does the trick. I will do the double layer then put a coat on it. Obviously it will bulge out a bit due to no rock behind it but when the 5 minute starts to set up you can flatten out the bulge back to flat and put another coat on it. I will also cover entire patches that I hang with the fuse also as you can basically float the patch out first then put the fuse over it. Makes coating out a patch much faster.


----------



## mld

Think I would up my bazooka before I could give up fibafuse.


----------



## mld

Had to tape a huge house out with paper a few weeks ago, that's what was supplied, and I thought, what the heck use the free stuff,:furious: forgot how much better fuse is.
So easy to run, wipe and flush.:thumbsup:


----------



## moore

fr8train said:


> the little bit that I've messed with it, I've noticed a few things.
> 
> 1. runs through my taper without a problem.
> 2. effortless picking of 3-ways
> 3. does seem to dry faster
> 4. I get fiberglass in my fingers
> 
> All in all, seems like a good product. Like so many of the products we use in construction these days, time will tell. We were just talking along these lines yesterday. PA thinks there might be a class action lawsuit against the light weight board after a few years. (we've been having "some" issues with it). But that's for another thread


A class action lawsuit in a few years??  Fck dat!!! Get rid of that chit NOW!! The last rep they [supplier] sent out said I was the only one in this area that had a problem with the l/w boards.
I said your a liar! If your gonna stand there and blow smoke up my a$$ 
get back in your truck ...Leave!!


----------



## icerock drywall

fr8train said:


> the little bit that I've messed with it, I've noticed a few things.
> 
> 1. runs through my taper without a problem.
> 2. effortless picking of 3-ways
> 3. does seem to dry faster
> 4. I get fiberglass in my fingers
> 
> All in all, seems like a good product. Like so many of the products we use in construction these days, time will tell. We were just talking along these lines yesterday. PA thinks there might be a class action lawsuit against the light weight board after a few years. (we've been having "some" issues with it). But that's for another thread


fiberglass in my finger...you said ...lol yo need the right tools....dont use your finger in the corners


----------



## icerock drywall

and in the inside corners you cant use a knife unless you cut it back :whistling2:


----------



## saskataper

I was trying to show off fibafuse to toontown today running angles and I was having a bitch of a time flushing them with my 3" Columbia, they looked like crap and I was tearing tapes all over the place and he is looking at me like yeah this stuff is really awesome while I'm loosing it, near the end I took a closer look at the head and the frames are bent, no idea how it happened but I sure did feel stupid for not having looked when I started having issues.


----------



## Kiwiman

saskataper said:


> I was trying to show off fibafuse to toontown today running angles and I was having a bitch of a time flushing them with my 3" Columbia, they looked like crap and I was tearing tapes all over the place and he is looking at me like yeah this stuff is really awesome while I'm loosing it, near the end I took a closer look at the head and the frames are bent, no idea how it happened but I sure did feel stupid for not having looked when I started having issues.


Might not be just the bent frames, I Fibafuse angles with a banjo and flush with a 2.5" head, I found if you don't open up the mud flow enough it will tear the fuse if the tapes too dry, how thin the mud is, how tight it sits after being rolled and a slight adjustment of the blades can make all the difference as well. Yeah the tape can look a bit dodgy after taping, the fibres can look raised etc but they come up magic with a topcoat even if they're not rough sanded first.


----------



## icerock drywall

I got a new flusher the other day and it did the same thing...so I sanded the edge a little and it worked fine


----------



## saskataper

Kiwiman said:


> Might not be just the bent frames, I Fibafuse angles with a banjo and flush with a 2.5" head, I found if you don't open up the mud flow enough it will tear the fuse if the tapes too dry, how thin the mud is, how tight it sits after being rolled and a slight adjustment of the blades can make all the difference as well. Yeah the tape can look a bit dodgy after taping, the fibres can look raised etc but they come up magic with a topcoat even if they're not rough sanded first.


I'm sure it's the frames, they are bent so there is too much mud flow so the head can't pull enough mud to flush properly


----------



## taper71

I'm really tired off paper taper accordion up on me so I bought a case of fibafuse. Taped a 9000 sq. ft house yesterday, with the intention of just using the fibafuse on the butts and flats. Well it worked so well that I thought Id give it a shot in the corners as well. Im sold . Ran through my badzooka soooo sweet. even less mess out of the head . Taped out my house 1 hr faster than what I would have done with paper, ( from fixing all the crinkled tape). Picking 3 ways was effortless, and no dry spots as I could see where the dry spots were and the mud just soaks through when applied over it. Awesome stuff. :thumbsup:


----------



## mld

Amen brother!:thumbsup:


----------



## icerock drywall

I like big roll rolls of ff and can not lie


----------



## thefinisher

icerock drywall said:


> I like big roll rolls of ff and can not lie


 I'm addicted too :yes:


----------



## mld

I must confess, I too have become an addict.....
current job was butchered by the roto operator. Thirty plus slaughtered cutouts. Here's a few before and afters...


----------



## mld

There are many ways to fix bad cuts, but the fiba mat is definitely the fastest, easiest, and strongest way I have found. Thanks Ice and TF, probably wouldnt have tried it if you guys hadnt gone on and on about it, even though I've been using the rolls for a couple of years now.:thumbsup:


----------



## icerock drywall

mld said:


> I must confess, I too have become an addict.....
> current job was butchered by the roto operator. Thirty plus slaughtered cutouts. Here's a few before and afters...


I like to cover the hole thing ...then cut it out after...no mess in the box that way


----------



## icerock drywall

dont forget it also keeps dust out from the returns in the duck work


----------



## gazman

Since Kiwiman sent me some of the Fuse on a roll I have been finding plenty of uses for it. The latest use was to fill some holes where three ceiling speakers were removed. The original cut outs were very rough, but with Fuse no problem. The fact that you dont have to pre-fill makes it a game changer. so easy, fit a backer, screw in the sheet, and coat. Easy as one two three.


----------



## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> Since Kiwiman sent me some of the Fuse on a roll I have been finding plenty of uses for it. The latest use was to fill some holes where three ceiling speakers were removed. The original cut outs were very rough, but with Fuse no problem. The fact that you dont have to pre-fill makes it a game changer. so easy, fit a backer, screw in the sheet, and coat. Easy as one two three.


I'm surprised how often I use the wide roll of fuse as well, I've done the same over a light hole, much better to put one piece of fuse over the whole patch instead of a series of strips of the standard 2" wide.


----------



## gazman

Yes dead right Kiwiman. Thanks again for the Fuse. I spoke with Jim from wall Board tools today about the rolls of Fuse. So hopefully soon I will have a local supply.

On the subject of Fiba Fuse. Has any one ran it through the Zooka on flats using A/P? The reason I ask is that I cant get taping mud. It is either A/P or base (Hot mud), So far when I have used Fuse I have used base on the flats. I have used A/P and Fuse on internals, with no call backs. I am just not sure about taking the next step.


----------



## Tim0282

I have used a lot of it through the taper. Works great with no issues using AP.


----------



## gazman

Thanks Tim. Sometimes all we need is a bit of reassurance.


----------



## icerock drywall

gazman said:


> Since Kiwiman sent me some of the Fuse on a roll I have been finding plenty of uses for it. The latest use was to fill some holes where three ceiling speakers were removed. The original cut outs were very rough, but with Fuse no problem. The fact that you dont have to pre-fill makes it a game changer. so easy, fit a backer, screw in the sheet, and coat. Easy as one two three.


looks good....thats how I would do it :thumbup:


----------



## moore

icerock drywall said:


> I like to cover the hole thing ...then cut it out after...no mess in the box that way


You need to find a new hanger Ice!:whistling2: .......:yes:


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Yes dead right Kiwiman. Thanks again for the Fuse. I spoke with Jim from wall Board tools today about the rolls of Fuse. So hopefully soon I will have a local supply.
> 
> On the subject of Fiba Fuse. Has any one ran it through the Zooka on flats using A/P? The reason I ask is that I cant get taping mud. It is either A/P or base (Hot mud), So far when I have used Fuse I have used base on the flats. I have used A/P and Fuse on internals, with no call backs. I am just not sure about taking the next step.


 
Ive done it several times with all purpose, No probs gaz.


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> Ive done it several times with all purpose, No probs gaz.



Thanks for that Caz. I ended up giving it a go, and loved it. :thumbsup:


----------



## D A Drywall

Just found my local Home Hardware stocking Fuse. Now I must thank you guys for going on about the stuff. All I can say is wow. Now I can't wait to try it thru the zook


----------



## moore

Pretty kool stuff ...But don't scratch or pick your nose while your using it!


----------



## Bevelation

I was in the local store last week and saw that they just put the stuff on the shelves. My eyes lit up and bought 2 rolls. They were only the 250' rolls but I could imagine how much bigger the diameter would be on 500 feet. At $6.79 a piece....I thought it better work like the luxury they priced it at. I tried it on a 5 sheet job; dry taped the whole thing. Pretty slick stuff! Wipes like it's been run through soup mud but was barely mixed thinner than bead mud! Super easy to work with and I could coat sooner than I could with paper. I'll be trying this on a 2' tearout resto job and an 8000' house next week. I'm stoked.


----------



## D A Drywall

Yes I found out quickly why Ice modified a banjo to moisten the Fuse during application. After running the rolls thru my hands I felt like I had slapped a porcupine. But the stuff is worth the aggravation.


----------



## icerock drywall

D A Drywall said:


> Yes I found out quickly why Ice modified a banjo to moisten the Fuse during application. After running the rolls thru my hands I felt like I had slapped a porcupine. But the stuff is worth the aggravation.


funny...the fibafuse is so strong it cut my banjo where the tape comes out...had to do a little more modifying to it.


----------



## moore

I like it Kiwiman! I used A/P in these pics ..2 coats over the tape coat with no tape line? I'm sold on that!...I used it today on some peter joints in the closets with hot mud It hides very well...AND Sweet to wipe down!...I called the large drywall supplier [2 hour drive] I asked if they carry fibafuse . They said ...yeah we carry mesh tape!!! I said no ..It's not mesh It's called fibafuse! He said ..yeah! yeah! we got mesh tape! ..looks like i'll half to order some rolls from all-wall..Cause I really want to give this stuff a try on the seams.. 

One of my G/Cs thinks I'm his rental property repair man!
[bookman 'good times'] I used some 5 min hot mud and the F/F to patch a poop fan repair 10''x4'' 2 coats I was done! And it turned out really nice for a rush job ..I run a 500 watt halogen over it and all was well..


----------



## cazna

And you can sand it to moore if needed, It wont blow out like paper.


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> And you can sand it to moore if needed, It wont blow out like paper.


No offense Bro ..But I'm not sure what you mean by blow out.
Iv'e never had to sand a butt down to it's paper..Is that what you mean?:blink: I have often sanded my angles down to the paper tho:whistling2:


----------



## cazna

moore said:


> No offense Bro ..But I'm not sure what you mean by blow out.
> Iv'e never had to sand a butt down to it's paper..Is that what you mean?:blink: I have often sanded my angles down to the paper tho:whistling2:


Just the odd high spot here and there, Mostly corners, Or sometimes if its a very shallow taper then the tape can be a be a bit high, Or those annonying...............Ahhhh, hang on, You don't have doors or window frames fitted before you tape so your not dealing with many, many small butt seams above doors and windows and below the windows and sides of tight corners are you.


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Just the odd high spot here and there, Mostly corners, Or sometimes if its a very shallow taper then the tape can be a be a bit high, Or those annonying...............Ahhhh, hang on, You don't have doors or window frames fitted before you tape so your not dealing with many, many small butt seams above doors and windows and below the windows and sides of tight corners are you.


I hear ya!!! I'm no stranger to reno work Cazna .. I've had to work around trim doors and windows many ..many times It's a PITA!! :yes: Almost to the point where I want to walk out to the truck and grab a hammer and just rip it all down!..


----------



## moore

Me and a D/C friend of mine hung this house together this week ..I told him ..The next time I will bring a sledge hammer for those top two steps!!

He was like...Yeah! Can't blame ya there!


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Just the odd high spot here and there, Mostly corners, Or sometimes if its a very shallow taper then the tape can be a be a bit high, Or those annonying...............Ahhhh, hang on, You don't have doors or window frames fitted before you tape so your not dealing with many, many small butt seams above doors and windows and below the windows and sides of tight corners are you.


Speaking of working around trim.....Check this one out Cazna.
I didn't want it...But I think I got It!  
I'm trying to talk them into 5/8s on the ceilings... It's gonna be a poker house. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-IvA3wgn4k&feature=youtu.be


----------



## cazna

moore said:


> Speaking of working around trim.....Check this one out Cazna.
> I didn't want it...But I think I got It!
> I'm trying to talk them into 5/8s on the ceilings... It's gonna be a poker house. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-IvA3wgn4k&feature=youtu.be


 
Hahaha, You just peaked bro, That's a career high point that is 

Yes im being a smart arse, How much re lining are you doing?? All of it??


----------



## D A Drywall

Another silk purse Moore? I can't believe the video camera didn't pick up the muttering!


----------



## thefinisher

Welcome to the dark side of FF Moore. You won't be able to believe what that stuff can do with some durabond. I learned another trick while doing patches also. On patches that are small enough I wont put sheetrock in them only FF. Recently I put mesh tape over the holes then put mud over the patch, then put FF over that. The mesh gives the mud something to stick to so you have mud in the patch holding the FF together. Just a small trick to use for that extra strength.


----------



## icerock drywall

thefinisher said:


> Welcome to the dark side of FF Moore. You won't be able to believe what that stuff can do with some durabond. I learned another trick while doing patches also. On patches that are small enough I wont put sheetrock in them only FF. Recently I put mesh tape over the holes then put mud over the patch, then put FF over that. The mesh gives the mud something to stick to so you have mud in the patch holding the FF together. Just a small trick to use for that extra strength.


 and than try not using water or very little and use mud max ...it makes ez sand like duradond


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

icerock drywall said:


> and than try not using water or very little and use mud max ...it makes ez sand like duradond


Is that mud max like gauging plaster? Sounds like it could be.


----------



## icerock drywall

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Is that mud max like gauging plaster? Sounds like it could be.


its just glue...


----------



## icerock drywall

cazna said:


> Hahaha, You just peaked bro, That's a career high point that is
> 
> Yes im being a smart arse, How much re lining are you doing?? All of it??


cazna you need to try ff with trim-tex glue ...there is nothing stronger and it dose quick patch repair faster then mixing duradond 20


----------



## cazna

Looks cool ice, But all the way down here we don't have trim tex glue, Or trimtex beads, Any of them


----------



## icerock drywall

cazna said:


> Looks cool ice, But all the way down here we don't have trim tex glue, Or trimtex beads, Any of them


wow that sucks!!do you have any kind of spray glue?


----------



## cazna

icerock drywall said:


> wow that sucks!!do you have any kind of spray glue?


 
None bro, None at all, Only the stuff I spray the bowl with after a hot curry.


----------



## Kiwiman

moore said:


> I like it Kiwiman!
> I called the large drywall supplier [2 hour drive] I asked if they carry fibafuse . They said ...yeah we carry mesh tape!!! I said no ..It's not mesh It's called fibafuse! He said ..yeah! yeah! we got mesh tape!


Glad I could help/convert :thumbup:
Remember to mix a bit runnier so it bleeds through the fuse and be careful wiping the tape over sharp edged butts so as not to cut through the tape,
I've always said thats a stupid name, who in their right mind would put "Fiba" in the name when there's so much controversy over Fiba/mesh, sure it's made out of fibreglass like meshtape but thats where the similarity ends, it bears a strong resemblance to epoxy resin fibreglassing like on body kits and boat hulls. Mud acts more like an adhesive for papertape where as Fibafuse becomes part of the mud itself.
Fast forward to the 2 min mark - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eS_Sqnn2rlc


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> None bro, None at all, Only the stuff I spray the bowl with after a hot curry.



Here you go Caz. This is at Bunnings NZ.
http://www.bunnings.co.nz/h-b-fuller-spray-bond-permanent-spray-adhesive-350g-_p00136501


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Here you go Caz. This is at Bunnings NZ.
> http://www.bunnings.co.nz/h-b-fuller-spray-bond-permanent-spray-adhesive-350g-_p00136501


Oh yeah, Might get some next time im over kiwimans side of the hill.


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Oh yeah, Might get some next time im over kiwimans side of the hill.


I can send some over if you want Caz, your mitre10 should stock it though, have a look in the paint dept where the adhesives and stuff are.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

Throw some d-bond on it betcha it stands strong if Hurricane 2buck ran into it


----------



## Bevelation

I ordered 80 rolls.


----------



## Toontowntaper

Bevelation said:


> I ordered 80 rolls.


Your local CO-OP stocking them Bevelation. I just seen the flyer and they are selling it $1 cheaper at the CO-OP then our DW suppliers


----------



## mld

Toontowntaper said:


> Your local CO-OP stocking them Bevelation. I just seen the flyer and they are selling it $1 cheaper at the CO-OP then our DW suppliers


Yes , but did you see the regular price in the background!?
That's Kiwiland price!!!:whistling2:


----------



## cazna

mld said:


> Yes , but did you see the regular price in the background!?
> That's Kiwiland price!!!:whistling2:


Was $14, now its $10 a roll, I think.


----------



## Bevelation

Toontowntaper said:


> Your local CO-OP stocking them Bevelation. I just seen the flyer and they are selling it $1 cheaper at the CO-OP then our DW suppliers


Yup, that's where I bought them. I don't care who sells it to me, but for a price like that, I can't say no.


----------



## MUDBONE

Bevelation said:


> I ordered 80 rolls.


Now thats a revelation Bevelation!


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Hahaha, You just peaked bro, That's a career high point that is
> 
> Yes im being a smart arse, How much re lining are you doing?? All of it??


Looks like all of It.. ...I'll have the hangers tied up on a good size home next week, so me and Tuco will half to tackle this one. 

After the last three model homes ..This one may be the gravy :whistling2:


----------



## icerock drywall

when going around windows and door trim and steps or any spots where you don't need the tape 2'' I cut a 3/4 strip of ff form my 36' roll ......use less mud and all I need is a 4'' knife


----------



## FibaFuse

*Hi from FibaFuse!*

Just wanted to thank all the users on this forum for your support of our product! Anyone have any jobs coming up this spring that you are planning on using FibaFuse for?


----------



## cazna

FibaFuse said:


> Just wanted to thank all the users on this forum for your support of our product! Anyone have any jobs coming up this spring that you are planning on using FibaFuse for?


 Thank you for you comment Fibafuse, I didn't realise you had joined the forum.

Yes I have many jobs I will be using Fuse on but I do think a creaseless roll would make a few people here happy :thumbsup:


----------



## embella plaster

I use fibafuse on all flats and buts it great i prefil the bad seems first but i have found fibafuse has way more tolerance to gaps where paper would bubble as kiwi said i charge a premium and home owners love and jump at my bids knowing i use a product that has more strength and mould resistance. ....bonus for me when i sand is never bubbles......on corners i only tried it onece i loved hiw easy it rolled buty banjo didnt leave enough mud to cover fiba nicely so they needed a second coat with the flusher but still came up awesome.....beware if you dont have sloppy mud you will come up with trouble it needs to fuse with the mud and it works great also apply light pressure when bedding in which is great on the wrists love fibafuse


----------



## Wimpy65

FibaFuse said:


> Just wanted to thank all the users on this forum for your support of our product! Anyone have any jobs coming up this spring that you are planning on using FibaFuse for?


Yep, I use Fibafuse all the time now. Working with it is a pleasure, whether I'm doing patch work or taping out a job. I wouldn't want to be without it! :thumbup:


----------



## Tim0282

Me too. I carry a 3' roll in the truck with me all of the time. It is perfect for anything bigger than the 2" can handle. Say when the carpenter or home owner hangs the rock. I cut a bunch of 4"x6" pieces and tape right over the whole box. Then cut out the box when sanded. Easy fix. Great tape!


----------



## embella plaster

When i get a tool that leaves enough mud i will also use in my corners as its so easy to roll doesnt bubble and your 3 ways are amazing absolutly perfect...but for now i am an exclusive fibafuse user to all flats.... butts... and patching and when i bid i mention using fibafuse and get clients to research it and it helps me win bids i am 100% behind the product


----------



## Kiwiman

FibaFuse said:


> Just wanted to thank all the users on this forum for your support of our product! Anyone have any jobs coming up this spring that you are planning on using FibaFuse for?


I've been using it since mid 2009 and love it, me and Cazna helped get it introduced into New Zealand and now it's everywhere here, I use NZ brand setting compound on the flats and NZ brand all purpose on angles and don't have any of the problems the northern hemisphere guy's seem to have. 
I would buy creaseless fuse, the creased fuse helps if taping angles by hand but with auto tools it doesn't really need to be there, most of us see the crease as a possible weak point especially on butt joins, have a look at the crease and you'll see that mud can't bleed through the tape the same, if that spot is perfectly lined up with a butt edge then there's the possible weak spot.
Time for fibafuse to expand I reckon, how about something like a straitflex tape with fibafuse bonded to it, or like no-coat with fibafuse bonded instead of paper.
Good to have you on board :thumbsup:


----------



## embella plaster

Kiwiman said:


> I've been using it since mid 2009 and love it, me and Cazna helped get it introduced into New Zealand and now it's everywhere here, I use NZ brand setting compound on the flats and NZ brand all purpose on angles and don't have any of the problems the northern hemisphere guy's seem to have.
> I would buy creaseless fuse, the creased fuse helps if taping angles by hand but with auto tools it doesn't really need to be there, most of us see the crease as a possible weak point especially on butt joins, have a look at the crease and you'll see that mud can't bleed through the tape the same, if that spot is perfectly lined up with a butt edge then there's the possible weak spot.
> Time for fibafuse to expand I reckon, how about something like a straitflex tape with fibafuse bonded to it, or like no-coat with fibafuse bonded instead of paper.
> Good to have you on board :thumbsup:


I agree looking at the crease its quite scary like how thin and looks like its missing fibres but in saying that had no trouble its great only ppl i have heard trouble is to thick mud and being rough and cutting it or trying to push hard like paper its amazing every on says u still need to gap fill today i had a v out butt join so almost 10mm v 5mm each side didnt pre fill ran my tape and its great.....just a hint for any one if it starts to look as if it bubble out wipe your taping knife across the tape opposite way it runs and it fixes the bubble completly


----------



## keke

embella plaster said:


> When i get a tool that leaves enough mud i will also use in my corners


that tool is bazooka but if you don't want to spend money on it I'll recommend you a banjo like this


----------



## cazna

embella plaster said:


> its amazing every on says u still need to gap fill today i had a v out butt join so almost 10mm v 5mm each side didnt pre fill ran my tape and its great.


Careful there chap, Delayed shrinkage and prefilling has been much talked about on here, Ive been caught out and the older guys here explained it all to me, You have missed out on a man called 2buckcanuak, If it wasn't for him honestly most of us here would have been a little worse off, I couldn't thank him enough, That little hotmud prefill can save a world of headaches later on :yes:


----------



## embella plaster

keke said:


> that tool is bazooka but if you don't want to spend money on it I'll recommend you a banjo like this


I use a homax banjo and no matter what you set it to e.g 5 the same anount comes out as a 3 because fibafuse doesnt pull the mud out with the tape like paper does it fuses in it where the setting with paper does change the amount maybe if i mix it a little thicker it maybdrag through more but to thick i wont be able to pull fuse through lol cant win


----------



## embella plaster

cazna said:


> Careful there chap, Delayed shrinkage and prefilling has been much talked about on here, Ive been caught out and the older guys here explained it all to me, You have missed out on a man called 2buckcanuak, If it wasn't for him honestly most of us here would have been a little worse off, I couldn't thank him enough, That little hotmud prefill can save a world of headaches later on :yes:


Thanks for heads up mate glad this time didnt bite me


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

embella plaster said:


> I use a homax banjo and no matter what you set it to e.g 5 the same anount comes out as a 3 because fibafuse doesnt pull the mud out with the tape like paper does it fuses in it where the setting with paper does change the amount maybe if i mix it a little thicker it maybdrag through more but to thick i wont be able to pull fuse through lol cant win



Same thing here. I think I am going to file The attachment pieces down to allow more mudflow. When I flush with a 2.5, I still have to dip the roller in some mud and prime spots. 


️http://youtu.be/Fb2OdLICjFk


----------



## cazna

embella plaster said:


> Thanks for heads up mate glad this time didnt bite me


 Taping gaps just is not a good habit to get into, You think you got away with it so you go bigger next time, Do that in winter at your risk, Your chasing the shrinkage every coat, Might even give it one more top coat cause it don't quite look right then dam, You have crowned seams, That little prefill at the start saves a lot more than you realise, Then taping goes further as your not using so much mud and every coat just a nice thin layer that flow good with no delayed shrinkage problems to come back at you the months to come.



Mr.Brightstar said:


> Same thing here. I think I am going to file The attachment pieces down to allow more mudflow. When I flush with a 2.5, I still have to dip the roller in some mud and prime spots.
> 
> 
> ️http://youtu.be/Fb2OdLICjFk


 If you guys want more mud than a banjo and you don't use a bazooka then try adding mud with a compound tube and internal head then adding the tape by hand, Is honestly not much slower and if theres two of you very fast, It will take a little practice but works very well, I have even used a mudrunner for this, And the 2.5 anglehead works very well for tapecoat.

Or do a gazman, And file back that lip on your homax for more mudflow, His idea, Kiwis were to slow to pick that one up :whistling2:


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## embella plaster

cazna said:


> Taping gaps just is not a good habit to get into, You think you got away with it so you go bigger next time, Do that in winter at your risk, Your chasing the shrinkage every coat, Might even give it one more top coat cause it don't quite look right then dam, You have crowned seams, That little prefill at the start saves a lot more than you realise, Then taping goes further as your not using so much mud and every coat just a nice thin layer that flow good with no delayed shrinkage problems to come back at you the months to come.
> 
> 
> If you guys want more than a banjo and you don't use a bazooka then try adding mud with a compound tube and internal head then adding the tape by hand, Is honestly not much slower and if theres two of you very fast, It will take a little practice but works very well, I have even used a mudrunner for this, And the 2.5 anglehead works very well for tapecoat.
> 
> Or do a gazman, And file back that lip on your homax for more mudflow, His idea, Kiwis were to slow to pick that one up :whistling2:



Does that work the reason i ask is that fibafuse do3snt pull the mud like paper does on 5 the opening look big enough for more mud the tape just doesnt pull ot through it slides through the mud....i think i gonna try compound tube but did that when i only had a couple to run and they came up awesome


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## Sweendog87

cazna said:


> Taping gaps just is not a good habit to get into, You think you got away with it so you go bigger next time, Do that in winter at your risk, Your chasing the shrinkage every coat, Might even give it one more top coat cause it don't quite look right then dam, You have crowned seams, That little prefill at the start saves a lot more than you realise, Then taping goes further as your not using so much mud and every coat just a nice thin layer that flow good with no delayed shrinkage problems to come back at you the months to come.
> 
> 
> 
> If you guys want more mud than a banjo and you don't use a bazooka then try adding mud with a compound tube and internal head then adding the tape by hand, Is honestly not much slower and if theres two of you very fast, It will take a little practice but works very well, I have even used a mudrunner for this, And the 2.5 anglehead works very well for tapecoat.
> 
> Or do a gazman, And file back that lip on your homax for more mudflow, His idea, Kiwis were to slow to pick that one up :whistling2:


If I'm goin to top with a 3.5 flusher what size is best to tape flush with, a 2.5 or a 3 we do alot of stand up boards and square set so hoping to fill the recess but not leave to much flat board or go should I go different for both?


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## cazna

embella plaster said:


> Does that work the reason i ask is that fibafuse do3snt pull the mud like paper does on 5 the opening look big enough for more mud the tape just doesnt pull ot through it slides through the mud....i think i gonna try compound tube but did that when i only had a couple to run and they came up awesome


I haven't tried trimming back the homax as I mostly use one for small hotmud jobs and not in corners, Sometimes a bigger job to hotmud the flats as well, The cp tube and head leaves it for dead in corners for me, It really works well, And every tapes cut right where you need it.



Sweendog87 said:


> If I'm goin to top with a 3.5 flusher what size is best to tape flush with, a 2.5 or a 3 we do alot of stand up boards and square set so hoping to fill the recess but not leave to much flat board or go should I go different for both?


For me I have found a 2.5 dm angleheads best to tape with, Not flushers, But I do really like the 3.5 to finish.

The anglehead leaves a sharper corner than a rounded flusher, Then a 3.5 flusher over the top and a sand out with a big sanding block does it for me.......................Again...................Thank you 2Buck.


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## fr8train

Sweendog87 said:


> If I'm goin to top with a 3.5 flusher what size is best to tape flush with, a 2.5 or a 3 we do alot of stand up boards and square set so hoping to fill the recess but not leave to much flat board or go should I go different for both?


The best way is the way that works best for you. It really all comes down to your methods, and your existing tools. 

What size it's best to tape with depends on how you are stringing your tape. The 3" that I picked up happens to work great behind my taper, if it didn't, I would've set it aside and used it for skim. Only way to figure it out is to experiment. But isn't that half the fun?!


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## icerock drywall

going to add one more thing about ff and peeking ...if the mud is to thick and you pull ff out of the banjo you can stretch the ff and the crease will get weak and you will get peeks...you might not get peeks if you use a zook because the wheels do the pulling...but if your pulling it out like paper in a banjo...look out. Mr ff please kill the crease


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## Mr.Brightstar

Kill the crease, and market it as the tape for auto tools.


️http://youtu.be/Fb2OdLICjFk


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## Sweendog87

Ok cheers canza


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