# Corner boxes VS. Compound Tube



## A smooth finish

Im looking at getting something to help me with angles.

But I cant seem to tell what would be better corner box with angle head or a compound tube with applicator head.

Whats your guys thoughts on it


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## PrecisionTaping

Corner box with an angle head is way better. No doubt about it.
But it also comes down to how much you want to spend.

*Angle Box route*
Cost of an angle head = 356$
http://www.walltools.com/products/a...orner-finisher/columbia-corner-finishers.html

Cost of a corner box = 220$
http://www.walltools.com/products/automatic-taping-tools/corner-box/columbia-corner-boxes.html

Corner box handle = 42$
http://www.walltools.com/col-cfbh.html

*Total cost = 618$*

VS

*CP Tube route*
Compound Tube = 152$
http://www.walltools.com/columbia-taping-tools-compound-mud-tube.html

Inside 90 degree internal applicator = 37.26$
http://www.walltools.com/better-than-ever-90-degree-inside-applicator-ica-01.html

Flusher = 130$
http://www.walltools.com/blu-sg.html


Flusher handle = 58$
http://www.walltools.com/columbia-corner-finisher-handle.html

*Total cost = 377.26$*

Now obviously there are variations you can do, I mean, you could technically run an angle head on a CP tube but the results arent the same in my opinion. If you're gonna drop the money on an angle head, then you might as well by the corner box. Don't buy an anglehead and than a CP tube.

Hope this helped.


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## A smooth finish

Now my question is do you have to run across the angle after the flusher with a knife are does the flusher do all the work


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## thefinisher

I have been wondering sort of the same thing. Anybody have any up close pics of an angle run with a tin head/flusher after the mud is applied? Anybody apply mud with a wool roller then use a flusher? If so what kind of quality are you getting?


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## Mountain Man

I use a 2.5" Columbia angle head to glaze after I roll the angles and then I use a 3" tape tech angle head on a Columbia angle box to pump the angles. They come out nearly perfect and the only knife work is in the three way and an occasional touch up from framing or boarding irregularities.


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## PrecisionTaping

Flushers and angle heads do all the work.
Like MountainMan said, all you need to do is clean your 3 ways.


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## gotmud

You also have to add the cost of a pump for the angle box if you dont have one


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## Lloydnz

You can use a compound tube to fill the angle box. You do not need a pump. I do a combo of first coat with a tapepro 3inch flusher and second coat 3inch angle head on an angle box for square setting and do wall internals with a compound tube and 3 inch angle head comes out smooth for paint finish .


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## RenoRob

Lloydnz said:


> You can use a compound tube to fill the angle box. You do not need a pump. I do a combo of first coat with a tapepro 3inch flusher and second coat 3inch angle head on an angle box for square setting and do wall internals with a compound tube and 3 inch angle head comes out smooth for paint finish .


I've been flushing tapes with 3.5" mechanical and then tube/3.5 cam am for final. It's filling the bevels better for me.


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## 2buckcanuck

thefinisher said:


> I have been wondering sort of the same thing. Anybody have any up close pics of an angle run with a tin head/flusher after the mud is applied? Anybody apply mud with a wool roller then use a flusher? If so what kind of quality are you getting?


I have a video

I sorta zoom in on the angles at the end of the vid, but 2buckjr left a big blob in the one angle on the left. Most times you will get away with one pass/swipe with the horizontal angles, but not the uprights/vertical angles (sometimes). 2buckjr is running them wrong, I prefer to start the wiper at the top, then come down, then go back up to the 3 way. No need to clean out the bottoms, just pick out the 3 ways.

Tape was installed with a bazooka, rolled out with Columbia roller, wiped out with a 2.5 Drywall master angle head. Then to flush/glaze (tools used in video) can-am corner applicator, on BTE a tube (don't buy) ,then flushed with a 3.5 can-am wiper (not flusher) on a north star pole. It's called the indirect corner flushing method in video.

Then for Moose boys post

I would not say the angle box is WAY BETTER, just a bit faster but with more pain. Angle box is great in open 8' high areas, but confined spaces like closets and work over 8' high the bloody $%^&@*^@!!! thing hurts:furious:. Then you could debate about how many times you pass over your angles with the angle box, most times one pass will not do it, depending on your angle heads. There's no effort put forth with the compound tube, corner flushing all day will not bother you, no PAIN.

Good on Moose boy putting price comparisons up, but I would of also stated the compound tube is a multi purpose tool, well the angle box is one dimensional. Buy the extra applicator heads, and it will do more. Bead applicator to install paper or vinyl bead, flat applicator to install no-coat, flat tapes if needed, or spot high screws. You also could use the angle applicator head to install tape if your in a pinch, or your starting out new in the trade. You can fill your nail spotter with the tube, and you can carry them around together with more ease, rather than walking back to pump all the time. You can gerry rig a pipe, to fit over the nozzle to fill the boxes, or buy the mud shark attachment. You can also draw water out of a sink with them, which also makes them the worlds best squirt gun. And best of all, for you guys that smoke left handed cigarettes, I hear it makes for a great BONG:thumbup:


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## RenoRob

2buckcanuck said:


> I have a video
> 
> I sorta zoom in on the angles at the end of the vid, but 2buckjr left a big blob in the one angle on the left. Most times you will get away with one pass/swipe with the horizontal angles, but not the uprights/vertical angles (sometimes). 2buckjr is running them wrong, I prefer to start the wiper at the top, then come down, then go back up to the 3 way. No need to clean out the bottoms, just pick out the 3 ways.
> 
> Tape was installed with a bazooka, rolled out with Columbia roller, wiped out with a 2.5 Drywall master angle head. Then to flush/glaze (tools used in video) can-am corner applicator, on BTE a tube (don't buy) ,then flushed with a 3.5 can-am wiper (not flusher) on a north star pole. It's called the indirect corner flushing method in video.
> 
> Then for Moose boys post
> 
> I would not say the angle box is WAY BETTER, just a bit faster but with more pain. Angle box is great in open 8' high areas, but confined spaces like closets and work over 8' high the bloody $%^&@*^@!!! thing hurts:furious:. Then you could debate about how many times you pass over your angles with the angle box, most times one pass will not do it, depending on your angle heads. There's no effort put forth with the compound tube, corner flushing all day will not bother you, no PAIN.
> 
> Good on Moose boy putting price comparisons up, but I would of also stated the compound tube is a multi purpose tool, well the angle box is one dimensional. Buy the extra applicator heads, and it will do more. Bead applicator to install paper or vinyl bead, flat applicator to install no-coat, flat tapes if needed, or spot high screws. You also could use the angle applicator head to install tape if your in a pinch, or your starting out new in the trade. You can fill your nail spotter with the tube, and you can carry them around together with more ease, rather than walking back to pump all the time. You can gerry rig a pipe, to fit over the nozzle to fill the boxes, or buy the mud shark attachment. You can also draw water out of a sink with them, which also makes them the worlds best squirt gun. And best of all, for you guys that smoke left handed cigarettes, I hear it makes for a great BONG:thumbup:
> 
> 031 - YouTube


Don't you get excess mud everywhere when you flush with the 2.5?


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## mld

Buy a compound tube, you won't regret it. Like 2buck said it is useful for so many things you won't know what to do without it. You can always buy an anglebox later. Also there is no law that says you have to finish angles behind a cp tube with tin heads. I use a north star mechanical head on a pole. Just my humble opinion!


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## 2buckcanuck

RenoRob said:


> Don't you get excess mud everywhere when you flush with the 2.5?


Rough sand:yes:


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## mld

paper or mesh?:whistling2::whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

RenoRob said:


> Don't you get excess mud everywhere when you flush with the 2.5?


should address your post a bit better

If my 2.5 were to bite the dust, I think I may try a 3" head to install tape down the road. The 2.5 does leave spit lines or a curly edge on the outside of the tape. But I'm a taper that came from the days when the mud was a b1tch to sand, and we used a lot of 80 grit sand paper back then. Today, even with our so called hard muds, I find things sand off like a breeze with using 100 grit paper, so it's no big deal to me. Plus I find some guys are a bit too anal with stuff like that, lift marks, edge lines , blobs etc, they try to make things look too pretty all the time. After doing it for 30 odd years, you just slap it to the walls when dealing with tapes and first coats, it's where you can gain some speed. So if you take the golden rule of "the more you Fuk with it, the worse it gets".... well.... rough sanding is production/$$$$$$$,,, it's faster than trying to be pretty:yes:,,, plus that 2.5 does cover the tape nice.......

A lot of builders and DWC say I start out rough looking, but my end result, I'm faster than the other crews, and smoother when all is done...... you half to know when to get pretty with the work:yes:



mld said:


> Also there is no law that says you have to finish angles behind a cp tube with tin heads. I use a north star mechanical head on a pole. Just my humble opinion!


Good point, I was going to mention use what ever angle heads you want, sometimes the more I type, the more I forget


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## 2buckcanuck

mld said:


> paper or mesh?:whistling2::whistling2:












paper tape, paper bead, paper sand paper, and paper money is all that I need:thumbsup:


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## mld

paper tape, paper bead, paper sand paper, and paper money is all that I need:thumbsup:[/QUOTE]

I guess you would be pretty predictable in a rock paper scissors contes.:jester:


I'm a paper user as well, although I find myself using more and more fibafuse, but that's another topic altogether.


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## A smooth finish

The thing I see is a flusher head is cheaper then a mechanical head.

I think Im going to go with a tube and a flusher head.


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## A smooth finish

Hey 2 Buck I saw the other video You have for corners. What pump do you use to fill your tube.


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## mld

A smooth finish said:


> The thing I see is a flusher head is cheaper then a mechanical head.
> 
> I think Im going to go with a tube and a flusher head.


get the applicator head as well, apply mud with tube and head, then flush wit flusher head on a pole. Walltools has a nice selection of starter kits. Look under "taping systems" and good luck!


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## A smooth finish

can you use a flusher after you tape. Just like a angle head?


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## 2buckcanuck

A smooth finish said:


> Hey 2 Buck I saw the other video You have for corners. What pump do you use to fill your tube.


It's a drywall master pump, we were only using it b/c the BTE tube was broke (lost it's suction) We now have a new tapepro tube, no need to fill it with the pump anymore.

Tapepro tube is nice, keep away from the BTE one, till they improve them.


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## A smooth finish

2buckcanuck said:


> It's a drywall master pump, we were only using it b/c the BTE tube was broke (lost it's suction) We now have a new tapepro tube, no need to fill it with the pump anymore.
> 
> Tapepro tube is nice, keep away from the BTE one, till they improve them.


I am thinking columbia 

What size is the tapepro one.


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## 2buckcanuck

A smooth finish said:


> can you use a flusher after you tape. Just like a angle head?


 When dealing with the tin heads, theres 2 types, think they call them all flushers, but one is a wiper, the other is the flusher,,,, whats the dif

Flusher has a hole in the head, and a little "V" tin thing over the hole, so you can put it on your tube and direct flush,,, but that method sorta sucks

Wiper has no hole on it, and you can only indirect flush with it, and its about 30 bucks less in price. Tin heads are more easy to start with.......



A smooth finish said:


> I am thinking columbia
> 
> What size is the tapepro one.


Columbia is suppose to be good too, along with the can-am also:yes:


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## chris

Im a fan of the anglebox:thumbsup: CP tubes have more uses but for angles a anglebox is hard to beat. Has anyone tried a mud applicator head on an anglebox??


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## thefinisher

Still would like to see an up close view of a finish coated angle done with a flusher/tin head.


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## mudslingr

It will look like this except a ½" wider on each side. Go 8:30 into the video.


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## Kiwiman

chris said:


> Has anyone tried a mud applicator head on an anglebox??


Yup, I've used the flat L-Trim applicator on offset angles for straightflex tape, it works surprisingely well, I thought it would flip but it doesn't.


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## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> Im a fan of the anglebox:thumbsup: CP tubes have more uses but for angles a anglebox is hard to beat. Has anyone tried a mud applicator head on an anglebox??


I seen one taper using a bead applicator on his angle box, thats the main applicator I would want to try in your position. The flat could work for the no-coat. For your main question, I'm sure the angle applicator would work. Basically all the applicator heads have a wire clip in them, that can be manipulated to grasp over your ball end. Also, the tin flusher heads should fit as well.

The bigger question is the holding capacity for compound tube vs angle box. (which was debated before, forgot the results







). Then there is the control aspect also. Most applicator heads are not balanced, compared to mechanical angle heads. Hard to explain, you can easily manipulate the head well on the end of the compound tube, well the angle box could be more flip floppy, harder to control.

Plus all applicators I have are can-am, and I remember fitting them on my old TT angle box, other brands can't be positive on,,,, but I would guess they should.


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## moore

.....:whistling2:


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## sdrdrywall

moore said:


> .....:whistling2:


Moore you are one stubborn old goat :yes:


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## moore

sdrdrywall said:


> Moore you are one stubborn old goat :yes:


 I don't know what ya talkin bout!!!!


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## gordie

moore said:


> I don't know what ya talkin bout!!!!


haha how many of those roto zip wrenches you got moore or are you like me and forget the damn thing is in your pocket and now on the dash. i got chanel locks that i just end up using. switching back to Dewalt roughters.


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## Mountain Man

gordie said:


> haha how many of those roto zip wrenches you got moore or are you like me and forget the damn thing is in your pocket and now on the dash. i got chanel locks that i just end up using. switching back to Dewalt roughters.


No more roto zip for me!! I got two dewalts, one with 1/4" bit for door and windows and one with 1/8" bit for outlets!! Since I'm not a full time hanger they have lasted quite awhile!! Well I'm off to bed, I got a job to start in the morning at one of the local casinos, hopefully I don't lose more than I make!!!


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## JustMe

A smooth finish said:


> Im looking at getting something to help me with angles.
> 
> But I cant seem to tell what would be better corner box with angle head or a compound tube with applicator head.
> 
> Whats your guys thoughts on it


I'd start with a compound tube and see how you like it. If it serves you well enough for angles, then you're good. If you decide to try an angle box down the road, and find you like it better, the tube still has other uses that will more than keep paying for itself.

For myself, I have both, but the tube is what I use, and especially now with it being a Columbia tube. I was using Can-Am tubes before, but the Columbia is just that much nicer - more user friendly.


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## icerock drywall

3 " flusher


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## Pytlik

icerock drywall said:


> 3 " flusher


ohh... so much to sand :bangin:

look really awesome :thumbup: thumb up !


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## 2buckcanuck

icerock drywall said:


> 3 " flusher


that 3" angle looks absolutely horrible icerock :jester:

You should feel ashamed about posting such a picture :jester:

I'm sure a angle done by hand would look so much better:jester:


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## icerock drywall

2buckcanuck said:


> that 3" angle looks absolutely horrible icerock :jester:
> 
> You should feel ashamed about posting such a picture :jester:
> 
> I'm sure a angle done by hand would look so much better:jester:


 
I did not like the blue line flushers


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## thefinisher

icerock drywall said:


> I did not like the blue line flushers


 
Do you use a BTE flusher? 3", 3.5"?


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## icerock drywall

thefinisher said:


> Do you use a BTE flusher? 3", 3.5"?


2.5 for door jams
3 '' for all others (BTE )


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## 2buckcanuck

icerock drywall said:


> I did not like the blue line flushers


That pic looks like the same finish a circle brand flusher was doing that I bought about a year ago. I returned it to the supply house right away ( a long with every other taper who bought one).

Now my supply house is selling Can-am heads, when they were selling BTE before. I think it's a toss up between those two brands. But if my memory serves me right, I think the BTE left a sharper point.

Still say they should design a tin flusher, where you can have a removable part at the apex/point. They would be killer angle heads:thumbup:


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## gazman

View attachment 7221


icerock drywall said:


> I did not like the blue line flushers



There must be something wrong with your Blueline flusher because this is the result from a Tape-Pro flusher and the results are like chalk and cheese. This was ran with the zook, rolled with a Columbia roller then wiped with the Tape-Pro flusher.


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## 2buckcanuck

can-am looks better:whistling2::whistling2:


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## gazman

2buckcanuck said:


> can-am looks better:whistling2::whistling2:


Maybe you are just better:whistling2:.


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## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Maybe you are just better:whistling2:.


Naw, it's the machines:thumbsup:

Actually, I got to flush angles tomorrow, maybe Ill post up some pics. The head I'm using is getting older, and they start to leave a edge. That's the problem with the tin heads, they ware out. But when their brand new, for the first 10 or 15 houses (around 10,000 sq) they do a better job than the expensive heads...

So not knocking your work Gazzy (seen your other pics you posted, work looks excellent:thumbsup. Just those edges do sorta look heavy, I'd be touching into them or running a nail spotter down them.

That's want this site is for, comparing what the tools do:yes:

How new is your angle head??????


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## gazman

That pic was one of the first tapes that I flushed with the tin head after the zooka. So at that stage it was brand new. The edges were a bit heavy, but a bit of a rough sand then coat with my northstar and they looked sweet. Just thinking about some of the other comments about hand angles, I can run a sweet angle by hand but with the tools they look so straight and even. After paint there is prob no difference, but before paint there is a noticeable difference. A few months ago I did a house for another drywaller who is a hand finisher because he was flat out, he is still talking about how neat it was.


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## keke

gazman said:


> That pic was one of the first tapes that I flushed with the tin head after the zooka. So at that stage it was brand new. The edges were a bit heavy,


maybe if you add 1 more spring problem solved :whistling2:


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## thefinisher

Definitely thinking about picking up a flusher. So I think the only people that make them are BTE, Can-am, and blue-line/tape pro? BTE is the cheapest it seems...


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## icerock drywall

gazman said:


> View attachment 7221
> 
> 
> 
> There must be something wrong with your Blueline flusher because this is the result from a Tape-Pro flusher and the results are like chalk and cheese. This was ran with the zook, rolled with a Columbia roller then wiped with the Tape-Pro flusher.


wow you have some line on your box tool as well


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## moore

.....


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## icerock drywall

moore said:


> .....


nice:thumbup: and no mud on the floor ...that one spot looks like from washing the dust off:whistling2:


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## A smooth finish

moore said:


> .....


Is that by hand Moore?


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## moore

A smooth finish said:


> Is that by hand Moore?


 :blinkUH..Yeah.


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## moore

icerock drywall said:


> nice:thumbup: and no mud on the floor ...that one spot looks like from washing the dust off:whistling2:


 Wool roller hit the floor..:yes:


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## A smooth finish

do you use the roller put the mud on and then wipe both sides or do you just do one side.


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## moore

A smooth finish said:


> do you use the roller put the mud on and then wipe both sides or do you just do one side.


 one side at a time ...like a smuck:thumbup:


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## A smooth finish

but do you use the roller


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## moore

A smooth finish said:


> but do you use the roller


 on the tape coat ..I roll the mud on with a wool roller place the tape then wipe down...after that I run each side ..one side at a time by hand..like a smuck!!:thumbsup:


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## A smooth finish

Ya I run the tape with a homax and roller then do 1 side of thecorner


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## harvv

moore said:


> on the tape coat ..I roll the mud on with a wool roller place the tape then wipe down...after that I run each side ..one side at a time by hand..like a smuck!!:thumbsup:


Moore i thought i saw a video of you using an angle head somewhere? Youre back to doing angles by hand? Or are you april foolsing him :confused1::wacko: :laughing:


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## thefinisher

A smooth finish said:


> Ya I run the tape with a homax and roller then do 1 side of thecorner


 
Do you use the delko internal applicator?


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## A smooth finish

thefinisher said:


> Do you use the delko internal applicator?


No I havent bought it yet. I just push it in with my hand.


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## moore

harvv said:


> Moore i thought i saw a video of you using an angle head somewhere? Youre back to doing angles by hand? Or are you april foolsing him :confused1::wacko: :laughing:


 I'm playin around with the machine heads ..


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## icerock drywall

moore said:


> I'm playin around with the machine heads ..


mr moore...:jester: you rock


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## mld

Moore, are you applying mud with roller before using the head or something else?


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## A smooth finish

Hey moore what size knife are you using when you do it by hand. Or whats your process.


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## moore

mld said:


> Moore, are you applying mud with roller before using the head or something else?


 In the pics above I used a wool roller to apply the mud ,,A worn out old roller that leaves just enough mud . A compound tube with the applicater head works better,,but my tube is sucking air..Even when I fill it with the pump It keeps farting.


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## moore

A smooth finish said:


> Hey moore what size knife are you using when you do it by hand. Or whats your process.


 The knife on the left is my block and skim knife..I cut 1/8 off the top and a cunt hair off both sides [HYDE Flex knifes]

The knife on the right is my wipe down knife..4 1/2 x 3 '' There are no ripples or rinkles in my angle tape. When that wipe down knife breaks I'm gonna lay in the floor and cry like a little bitch,,:yes:





YES....I'm a smuck...but this is a drywall talk forum where as I am talking about drywall ..so you can't ban me!!!!:tt2:


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## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> It's a drywall master pump, we were only using it b/c the BTE tube was broke (lost it's suction) We now have a new tapepro tube, no need to fill it with the pump anymore.
> 
> Tapepro tube is nice, keep away from the BTE one, till they improve them.


 I think I found a way to fix my can am ...


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## jcampbell

moore said:


> I think I found a way to fix my can am ...


Was it not sealed before Moore? I just used silicon on mine after I took them apart and cleaned them up.


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> I think I found a way to fix my can am ...


That was not the problem with my BTE tube.....

But good thing you do have a can-am tube:yes:. The BTE tube comes with a solid plastic seal/piston, which wares out too fast. With the can-am and tapepro tube, they have a rubber seal/piston. Though I have not tried it yet with the tapepro (very new yet), with the can-am, when the tube would not draw up mud, you could tighten the bolt on the seal more, which would apply more pressure to the rubber seal, which made it suck up mud again. With the BTE tube, you could not do this.:furious: That's why I won't buy one again....

But I do half to pull out some caulking to fix my tapepro nose cone, since Tomg thinks I'm wrong about the screws sticking out too far that hold the nose cone on:whistling2:

But here is a video from walltools with their cp tube, if you go to the 4:32 mark, you will see the seal/piston. Their made of rubber, and I'm sure if you were to put more tension on the bolt, it would expand the seal out more


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## tomg

Doesn't really work that way 2buck, tightening the bolt will not make much difference to the sealing force.
The seal is the same as in our loading pump, and has a relatively thin section. This wiper seal design makes use of pressure difference to force the seal out onto the cylinder.

Being flexible is more important with this seal than how tight it is in the cylinder. Being too tight would just make it hard to use and also increase wear.
Our flat box seals are similar in function - they flex out against the sides of the box.

As long as you keep it in good condition it should last quite a while. Don't use any solvent, petroleum based or penetrating type fluids on it - just water and some silicone spray.

When it wears out you just need to replace the wiper seal: P003

Here is a section view:









Cheers,
Tom.


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## jswain

Walltools?? We go to all this trouble to film clips and 2buck gives the credit to Walltools.. :thumbsup: thanks 2buck from Wallboard Tools Australia 


2buckcanuck said:


> That was not the problem with my BTE tube.....
> 
> But good thing you do have a can-am tube:yes:. The BTE tube comes with a solid plastic seal/piston, which wares out too fast. With the can-am and tapepro tube, they have a rubber seal/piston. Though I have not tried it yet with the tapepro (very new yet), with the can-am, when the tube would not draw up mud, you could tighten the bolt on the seal more, which would apply more pressure to the rubber seal, which made it suck up mud again. With the BTE tube, you could not do this.:furious: That's why I won't buy one again....
> 
> But I do half to pull out some caulking to fix my tapepro nose cone, since Tomg thinks I'm wrong about the screws sticking out too far that hold the nose cone on:whistling2:
> 
> But here is a video from walltools with their cp tube, if you go to the 4:32 mark, you will see the seal/piston. Their made of rubber, and I'm sure if you were to put more tension on the bolt, it would expand the seal out more
> The versatile Compound Applicator Tube - YouTube


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## gazman

Yes 2Bucky, WallBoard Tools .


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## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Yes 2Bucky, WallBoard Tools .


Well I'm sure if jswain were to send me some "T" shirts, I would never make that mistake again (send more than Gazzy has pictured:whistling2

So I'm sorry







walltoo.... I mean wallboard tools....








I almost did it again........


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## Mudshark

No shirt for you 2buck - you screwed up. :whistling2:


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## icerock drywall

2buckcanuck said:


> That was not the problem with my BTE tube.....
> 
> But good thing you do have a can-am tube:yes:. The BTE tube comes with a solid plastic seal/piston, which wares out too fast. With the can-am and tapepro tube, they have a rubber seal/piston. Though I have not tried it yet with the tapepro (very new yet), with the can-am, when the tube would not draw up mud, you could tighten the bolt on the seal more, which would apply more pressure to the rubber seal, which made it suck up mud again. With the BTE tube, you could not do this.:furious: That's why I won't buy one again....
> 
> But I do half to pull out some caulking to fix my tapepro nose cone, since Tomg thinks I'm wrong about the screws sticking out too far that hold the nose cone on:whistling2:
> 
> But here is a video from walltools with their cp tube, if you go to the 4:32 mark, you will see the seal/piston. Their made of rubber, and I'm sure if you were to put more tension on the bolt, it would expand the seal out more
> The versatile Compound Applicator Tube - YouTube


my tube is way better then this one...but I cant show you:thumbup:I hope to some day soon


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## harvv

moore said:


> :blinkUH..Yeah.


My angles pulled by hand after laps and quick clean up with sandpaper folded to a right angle(pinky and thumb end up near bloody by the end of it :surrender:. Use the same 5 inch hyde for everything. Its pretty stiff. Obv im not anywhere near the level of guys here. For some reason i cannot pull the 2nd side as quick and efficient as the first and have to take a bit more care and time...not sure why. Just need more practice i guess!


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## Rwilred79

Hey guys, I need some advice, which size tube is the best to start with? I only do commercial work ,so usually I don't have that many angles to finish, but I was looking for an easier way to finish and give it that nice finish look,without spending a whole lot, I'm sure there's a thread on this but the search engine on here isn't that great. Any help would be nice.thanks.


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## 2buckcanuck

Rwilred79 said:


> Hey guys, I need some advice, which size tube is the best to start with? I only do commercial work ,so usually I don't have that many angles to finish, but I was looking for an easier way to finish and give it that nice finish look,without spending a whole lot, I'm sure there's a thread on this but the search engine on here isn't that great. Any help would be nice.thanks.


Most compound tubes (CT) are around the 40" mark, check out the Tapepro, columbia or can-am ones, maybe their 38", or maybe 42", but you can google that. You can get short ones around 24", and the longest one you can order is around 60". So get one around the 40" lenght.

Or maybe you can get Icerock to make you a transparent one:jester:


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## JustMe

Rwilred79 said:


> Hey guys, I need some advice, which size tube is the best to start with? I only do commercial work ,so usually I don't have that many angles to finish, but I was looking for an easier way to finish and give it that nice finish look,without spending a whole lot, I'm sure there's a thread on this but the search engine on here isn't that great. Any help would be nice.thanks.


Going off 2buck's post:

If you have a choice between Columbia's and Can-Am's tubes, go Columbia. Their 42" works well for me in commercial work: 

http://www.walltools.com/columbia-taping-tools-compound-mud-tube.html

I don't know what quite to say about the Tapepro one (labelled 'Blueline' in the USA). I don't know if there's anyone on here who's tried both the Columbia and Tapepro/Blueline ones, and can compare the 2 based on experience. 

http://www.walltools.com/blu-ca.html


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## mld

I've got the tapepro and I've used the Columbia. The tapepro is bigger but runs relatively easy for its size. The Columbia is smaller in diameter and runs quite nice. If you've never run a tube before I would buy a smaller one first. Compound tubes are like potato chips..... you can never have just one...Justme:thumbup::thumbup:


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## Rwilred79

Thanks for all the info..really helpful.


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## mld

One more thing about cp tubes...Do not, and I stress, DO NOT pull that thing out of the box, slap an angle head on it and think you are going to be the angle finishing champ You WILL be discouraged. Get a corner applicator, there is some affordable one out there that work quite well, and follow it up with an angle head on a pole.:yes:


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## icerock drywall

and if you dont get paid you can use it as a water gun:gunsmilie:


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## mld

icerock drywall said:


> and if you dont get paid you can use it as a water gun:gunsmilie:


Amen!!!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## icerock drywall

my first tube I got I did not use for a year:blink:I did not like it ...becouse all I used was durabond on my tape coat with mesh tape:shutup: but I did run with it ...durabond in the tube went fast and never got hard in the tube...then mr hunter gave me fibafuse to try:thumbup:and never went back to my old way...the tube made my job easy and then came the box tools ...yes why did I wait so long to get my fat boys ...but thats another story. now I have 6 tubes ...why six ...well they have been iced


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## JustMe

mld said:


> Get a corner applicator, there is some affordable one out there that work quite well


Although I've used the Can-Am ones and not BTE, the design I like best so far of the ones I've tried: http://www.walltools.com/better-than-ever-90-degree-inside-applicator-ica-01.html

I believe 2buck, mudslingr also use that design type.


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## 2buckcanuck

yep, two solid streams of mud, plain and simple, and it don't matter if the wheels work:thumbup:


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## cazna

So does tapepro make a head that does two streams of mud, Thats what i used, It also leaves a mud line right in the corner, Its a good head for taping as well, Its my small job fav. I also have the can am, It feels like it drags and the wheels clogged up on me and i didnt realise it and burned a flat spot on each wheel, Then i cleaned it and used it again and it thump thump thump along the corner so i got some new wheels, And it drags a dark mark in the corner, [email protected] thing, Not bad mud out put though. Heres the tapepro, I also have the advance that puts beads of mud on.


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## VANMAN

I decided 2 try out my tapepro tube today with 2.5 dm head for finishing my angles! That's instead of using the mudrunner!
Well the results r,It blew the mudrunner away(And that was my worker using it for the first time) Filled it with the gooseneck and pump and used thicker mud! :thumbup:
It was so much quicker and cleaner so it looks like my runner could b going into retirement!!!
My worker loved the thing!!!:thumbsup:
Now I suppose I need to buy him the smaller tube for cupboards!!!


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## cazna

That's interesting vanman.


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## JustMe

VANMAN said:


> I decided 2 try out my tapepro tube today with 2.5 dm head for finishing my angles! That's instead of using the mudrunner!
> Well the results r,It blew the mudrunner away(And that was my worker using it for the first time) Filled it with the gooseneck and pump and used thicker mud! :thumbup:
> It was so much quicker and cleaner so it looks like my runner could b going into retirement!!!
> My worker loved the thing!!!:thumbsup:
> Now I suppose I need to buy him the smaller tube for cupboards!!!


Good stuff, Van. I've wondered about how an angle head on a [good working] tube might work, but never gave it a try with my Columbia tube. Are you using a wheeled DM, or one without the wheels?


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## VANMAN

JustMe said:


> Good stuff, Van. I've wondered about how an angle head on a [good working] tube might work, but never gave it a try with my Columbia tube. Are you using a wheeled DM, or one without the wheels?


Its meant 2 have wheels but it came without them! I've had it a long time now tho!
It was so much quicker than the runner!!:thumbsup:
I got a room,2 cupboards and an en suit out of 1 fill!!


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> That's interesting vanman.


I think the man power is the key 2 this and the smaller head 2 finish!:thumbsup:
Not a gas cylinder doing the work! But it was a piece of p*ss with the tube!
Not going back over it a few times if ur mud was a little on the thick side! We flew through a massive 350 spm house!
The mix would have been boxin consistency,And I like my mud thicker than any of u guys I have seen on here!
3 ways were easy as the mud was thicker than the runner can handle!


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## VANMAN

mld said:


> One more thing about cp tubes...Do not, and I stress, DO NOT pull that thing out of the box, slap an angle head on it and think you are going to be the angle finishing champ You WILL be discouraged. Get a corner applicator, there is some affordable one out there that work quite well, and follow it up with an angle head on a pole.:yes:


It worked for me chief!!:thumbsup:
Never really used them before but it worked great!:thumbup:
I have that Bte sh*te but not for me!
That beast of a Tapepro tube does whats wanted of it!:yes:


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## icerock drywall

VANMAN said:


> I think the man power is the key 2 this and the smaller head 2 finish!:thumbsup:
> Not a gas cylinder doing the work! But it was a piece of p*ss with the tube!
> Not going back over it a few times if ur mud was a little on the thick side! We flew through a massive 350 spm house!
> The mix would have been boxin consistency,And I like my mud thicker than any of u guys I have seen on here!
> 3 ways were easy as the mud was thicker than the runner can handle!


what are your steps with the tube? I just run a bead and flush its a two step process


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## VANMAN

icerock drywall said:


> what are your steps with the tube? I just run a bead and flush its a two step process


Just put the DM head on it and hit them!:thumbsup:
1 step process! Easy stuff and I preferred using it like that compared to the runner! Runner was heavy after a while!!
I was surprised how it went especially with my worker using it as he's never tried a tube before only the runner!:blink:


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## mld

I would have to agree with you about the smaller head on the tapepro tube. Works awesome. Not so much with the 3" or 3.5".


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## cazna

How are you taping Van? Ive tried the bigger head then smaller but its the tapecoat that's the key, I found I couldnt get enough mud for a nice 3.5 inch flush so used the mudrunner for a flush to make a nice tape coat but got a bit fed up with all the gear needed.


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## keke

for me zooka + runny mud work perfect with 3.5 flusher.... but just for internals


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## cazna

keke said:


> for me zooka + runny mud work perfect with 3.5 flusher.... but just for internals


I haven't seemed to able to get that to happen, I get a few tapers on the corners and they steal all the mud, Or gaps, Ok with a 2.5 though, Its quite surprising how much mud the screws steal as well, If you prefilled all the screws and tapers it goes real nice, But that's more time.


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## icerock drywall

VANMAN said:


> Just put the DM head on it and hit them!:thumbsup:
> 1 step process! Easy stuff and I preferred using it like that compared to the runner! Runner was heavy after a while!!
> I was surprised how it went especially with my worker using it as he's never tried a tube before only the runner!:blink:


I would like to see if you could keep up with me vanman:thumbup:your one step and I would use my 2 step...I would take on a corner box as well:yes:


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## keke

cazna said:


> I haven't seemed to able to get that to happen, I get a few tapers on the corners and they steal all the mud, Or gaps, Ok with a 2.5 though, Its quite surprising how much mud the screws steal as well, If you prefilled all the screws and tapers it goes real nice, But that's more time.


try to put more mud with the roller


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> How are you taping Van? Ive tried the bigger head then smaller but its the tapecoat that's the key, I found I couldnt get enough mud for a nice 3.5 inch flush so used the mudrunner for a flush to make a nice tape coat but got a bit fed up with all the gear needed.


Flush tapes with a 3 dm!:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

icerock drywall said:


> I would like to see if you could keep up with me vanman:thumbup:your one step and I would use my 2 step...I would take on a corner box as well:yes:


U better get a vid made then!:yes:


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## icerock drywall

VANMAN said:


> U better get a vid made then!:yes:


I cant post it...:whistling2:


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## JustMe

icerock drywall said:


> I cant post it...:whistling2:


Planning on commercializing it?


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## icerock drywall

JustMe said:


> Planning on commercializing it?


there will be DVD in my book...
Rocken with ice


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## keke

VANMAN said:


> U better get a vid made then!:yes:





icerock drywall said:


> I cant post it...:whistling2:


bla bla bla........ the winner is *DRUNKEN BUM*


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## tomg

Vanman did you try the CFP-75 corner finisher on the compound tube?
With its light weight it seems to work well on the tube.

Tom.


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## VANMAN

tomg said:


> Vanman did you try the CFP-75 corner finisher on the compound tube?
> With its light weight it seems to work well on the tube.
> 
> Tom.


No Tom I never as I sent the head onto justme before I got the tube!
It works well with the 2.5 I have!:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

icerock drywall said:


> I would like to see if you could keep up with me vanman:thumbup:your one step and I would use my 2 step...I would take on a corner box as well:yes:


No disrespect Ice but how can 2 steps be quicker than 1?


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## cazna

VANMAN said:


> No disrespect Ice but how can 2 steps be quicker than 1?


I do two steps, Like buck, One with Tapepro cp and internal mudhead then one with cam am 3.5 flusher, It quite fast as your just slamming it, No being careful or slow at all, Its a quick and fool proof method, Maybe not as fast as they way your saying van but for other reasons I really like done that way and I would pick its not much slower.


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> I do two steps, Like buck, One with Tapepro cp and internal mudhead then one with cam am 3.5 flusher, It quite fast as your just slamming it, No being careful or slow at all, Its a quick and fool proof method, Maybe not as fast as they way your saying van but for other reasons I really like done that way and I would pick its not much slower.


Ok Caz!
Lets put this straight!:yes:
If I have a wall say 10m long,and I run along it 1 time and u run along it 2 times who will b finished first???????????????????:whistling2:
If u think about it,U go along the wall with ur head thing,then u go back 2 where u started,pick up ur flusher thing,then go back along the wall,then go back for ur tube thing,and start again! Am I making sence now? 1 pass and onto the next corner!:thumbsup:


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## cazna

That's all true and obvious Van, But its the whole picture im interested in.

Taping, I like a 2.5 head, Nice and even and full coated tape and quick to do, Anything bigger than that and I don't really like it, Things start getting less even and slower and I find myself back wiping trying to fill in the bare spots, So that's lost time right there.

Second coat, I don't really like the bigger then smaller head way, Its a bit uneven, Weird to sand, your anglehead needs tuned in real good or it can edge scrape into the tape coat, Once corners done if you feel it with your finger tips you feel the edge and it seems to build up the corner so if you held an 8 inch blade in there and out onto the wall its not a very flat corner which in turn can make painting them with rollers a hassel.

Sanding, I like the big block sanding sponges, Just go, Just slam it in there, wipe each side and done, It runs sweet behind a flusher, Flusher leaves a little mud in there and the block sands it out perfect, straight, square, no paper it the corner, fool proof time and time again.

So its the whole picture that suits me, I like taping quick with a 2.5, I like slamming it with the cp and flusher, I like the flusher 3.5 corners becouse sanding with a big blocks just so dam easy and the whole things fool proof

I just don't like corners done with a 3, or the bigger then smaller head finish, I like to cover all the tape coat and then sand.

We all different and have different muds so different things suit us all, That's just a method I really like as a whole and im sure your way is working awesome for you too.


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> That's all true and obvious Van, But its the whole picture im interested in.
> 
> Taping, I like a 2.5 head, Nice and even and full coated tape and quick to do, Anything bigger than that and I don't really like it, Things start getting less even and slower and I find myself back wiping trying to fill in the bare spots, So that's lost time right there.
> 
> Second coat, I don't really like the bigger then smaller head way, Its a bit uneven, Weird to sand, your anglehead needs tuned in real good or it can edge scrape into the tape coat, Once corners done if you feel it with your finger tips you feel the edge and it seems to build up the corner so if you held an 8 inch blade in there and out onto the wall its not a very flat corner which in turn can make painting them with rollers a hassel.
> 
> Sanding, I like the big block sanding sponges, Just go, Just slam it in there, wipe each side and done, It runs sweet behind a flusher, Flusher leaves a little mud in there and the block sands it out perfect, straight, square, no paper it the corner, fool proof time and time again.
> 
> So its the whole picture that suits me, I like taping quick with a 2.5, I like slamming it with the cp and flusher, I like the flusher 3.5 corners becouse sanding with a big blocks just so dam easy and the whole things fool proof
> 
> I just don't like corners done with a 3, or the bigger then smaller head finish, I like to cover all the tape coat and then sand.
> 
> We all different and have different muds so different things suit us all, That's just a method I really like as a whole and im sure your way is working awesome for you too.


Caz I'm only F*ckin with u and Ice!!:thumbsup:
Every1 2 their own I say! Never would I tell a fellow taper how 2 do their job as every1 is dif on how they do things!:yes:
But sh*t my angles came out fast and good with the small head and tube!:thumbup:
I have some of that sanding sponges but they want 2 like skip/Jump if u know what I mean? The 1 im using now is broken in a bit so its not so bad!


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## cazna

VANMAN said:


> Caz I'm only F*ckin with u and Ice!!:thumbsup:
> Every1 2 their own I say! Never would I tell a fellow taper how 2 do their job as every1 is dif on how they do things!:yes:
> But sh*t my angles came out fast and good with the small head and tube!:thumbup:
> I have some of that sanding sponges but they want 2 like skip/Jump if u know what I mean? The 1 im using now is broken in a bit so its not so bad!


:thumbsup:

I want to try a D handle or a T bar handle on my Tapepro CP tube, You reckon Tomg could hook us up?? Unscrew the ball and screw something else on? :yes:


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## icerock drywall

the thing I don't like is pulling and putting the tip on the tube...so with the way I do it is ...a beed in all the corners ...my hands never get mud on them....take the flusher and flush tham all.....no mess then pick the 3 ways....dose that make it a 3 step?:thumbup:


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## gazman

icerock drywall said:


> the thing I don't like is pulling and putting the tip on the tube...so with the way I do it is ...a beed in all the corners ...my hands never get mud on them....take the flusher and flush tham all.....no mess then pick the 3 ways....dose that make it a 3 step?:thumbup:


I feel the same with removing the head. That's where a filler nozzle would be cool.


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## cazna

icerock drywall said:


> the thing I don't like is pulling and putting the tip on the tube...so with the way I do it is ...a beed in all the corners ...my hands never get mud on them....take the flusher and flush tham all.....no mess then pick the 3 ways....dose that make it a 3 step?:thumbup:


I usually have a bucket lid on the ground, Put the Tapepro internal mud head on the cp on that, Bend the cp back and hook the edge of the head with my foot and pop it off, Fill it again with either the gooseneck, Pump, Or bucket piston then just pop it back on without touching the head again.

Were could a filling nozzle fit onto a CP? I guess it could be on the cone, They could make a square part on the top of the cone to fit a nozzle but then would it just flow out the end instead of filling it?? So then it might need a gate valve like a zook, Gets away from the beauty of simplicity of the CP then, Im sure theres a way though.

I really like the flusher to, So light, fast and tidy, No scratches, Trash or anything, No edge tailing, If it hits a nib of mud it will just squash it or glide over it, Who cares if it gets dropped of falls off the pole, No blades on that to get chipped or knocked out of shape.


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## icerock drywall

cazna said:


> I usually have a bucket lid on the ground, Put the Tapepro internal mud head on the cp on that, Bend the cp back and hook the edge of the head with my foot and pop it off, Fill it again with either the gooseneck, Pump, Or bucket piston then just pop it back on without touching the head again.
> 
> Were could a filling nozzle fit onto a CP? I guess it could be on the cone, They could make a square part on the top of the cone to fit a nozzle but then would it just flow out the end instead of filling it?? So then it might need a gate valve like a zook, Gets away from the beauty of simplicity of the CP then, Im sure theres a way though.
> 
> I really like the flusher to, So light, fast and tidy, No scratches, Trash or anything, No edge tailing, If it hits a nib of mud it will just squash it or glide over it, Who cares if it gets dropped of falls off the pole, No blades on that to get chipped or knocked out of shape.



if I liked this tool I could fill this with my auto pump with never taking it off...I should make one but I like my flushers its lighter so I can go faster


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## cazna

Interesting Ice, Very interesting, But im with you on the flushers.


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> I usually have a bucket lid on the ground, Put the Tapepro internal mud head on the cp on that, Bend the cp back and hook the edge of the head with my foot and pop it off, Fill it again with either the gooseneck, Pump, Or bucket piston then just pop it back on without touching the head again.
> 
> Were could a filling nozzle fit onto a CP? I guess it could be on the cone, They could make a square part on the top of the cone to fit a nozzle but then would it just flow out the end instead of filling it?? So then it might need a gate valve like a zook, Gets away from the beauty of simplicity of the CP then, Im sure theres a way though.
> 
> I really like the flusher to, So light, fast and tidy, No scratches, Trash or anything, No edge tailing, If it hits a nib of mud it will just squash it or glide over it, Who cares if it gets dropped of falls off the pole, No blades on that to get chipped or knocked out of shape.


 I do the same! Put it on a lid and use my foot!!:thumbsup:


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## cazna

VANMAN said:


> I do the same! Put it on a lid and use my foot!!:thumbsup:


Lol, I must re try your small head on a cp to finish now cause sh!te you must be good :whistling2:


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> I want to try a D handle or a T bar handle on my Tapepro CP tube, You reckon Tomg could hook us up?? Unscrew the ball and screw something else on? :yes:


Better ask Tom on that 1!:yes:
Not sure if b happy getting his tube pulled apart!:whistling2:


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> Lol, I must re try your small head on a cp to finish now cause sh!te you must be good :whistling2:


Try it out Caz u may be surprised!
And less o the f*ckin cheek!:yes:
Oh sorry Caz I reread what u said!! Yea great minds think alike!! LOL


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## VANMAN

gazman said:


> I feel the same with removing the head. That's where a filler nozzle would be cool.


That's what I started on my old tube but I have never went back 2 it and finished the job!!
I was going 2 put the filler nozzle just before Where the plunger stops so it would b pumping the mud forward 2 the nose of the tube!
It was just going 2 b a trial and error kind o thing!
I just need 2 go get some parts for it and give it a go! The blue tube is old and not used so if it's crap well no probs!:yes:


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## icerock drywall

VANMAN said:


> Better ask Tom on that 1!:yes:
> Not sure if b happy getting his tube pulled apart!:whistling2:


then there would be another tool like my ice tube...I have a new one now:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

icerock drywall said:


> then there would be another tool like my ice tube...I have a new one now:thumbsup:


Why buy when u can make?:thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall

I want a Tapepro CP tube ...I have something for that tube:thumbup:
tom I got to try your tube at trim tex and shown them how I run a bead ...don't you have a old one you can send me?


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## VANMAN

icerock drywall said:


> I want a Tapepro CP tube ...I have something for that tube:thumbup:
> tom I got to try your tube at trim tex and shown them how I run a bead ...don't you have a old one you can send me?


Hope ur going 2 share with us Ice?:yes::thumbsup:


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## mld

I have one with no nose cone- fell twelve feet- ouch! PM me if interested Ice. I was going to make a easy fill out of it but my 24" tapepro works perfect and time is never there so reduce and simplify!


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## mld

PS. It is a tapepro, Ice.


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## icerock drywall

mld said:


> PS. It is a tapepro, Ice.


ok


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## icerock drywall

mld said:


> I have one with no nose cone- fell twelve feet- ouch! PM me if interested Ice. I was going to make a easy fill out of it but my 24" tapepro works perfect and time is never there so reduce and simplify!


I don't know what your talking about
http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/how-ice-pumps-his-mud-4893/


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## mld

Oh, I've used the cp tube to do boxes for ever. Hardly ever use a pump anymore for anything as a matter of fact. Don't know if that's laziness or efficiency but it works for me. I wanted to make an easy fill tube like the boys down under have. I know Cazna made one. I'm too lazy or efficient to look it up right now though...


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## icerock drywall

mld said:


> Oh, I've used the cp tube to do boxes for ever. Hardly ever use a pump anymore for anything as a matter of fact. Don't know if that's laziness or efficiency but it works for me. I wanted to make an easy fill tube like the boys down under have. I know Cazna made one. In too lazy or efficient to look it up right now though...


never had a hand pump...and never will and I also can auto fill my cp tube but I like the work out


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## mld

K.I.S.S. That's my motto.


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## icerock drywall

mld said:


> K.I.S.S. That's my motto.


*Keep it simple, stupid...is that for me...wow not nice*
*and the auto filler is simple*


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## mld

No that's for me. Tell myself every day. Main reason I'm no longer a bazooka lover. Simple rocks.


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## Tonydif

Anyone know the what compound tube size holds same volume of filler as a corner box? 24" tube?


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## Mjaw

thefinisher said:


> I have been wondering sort of the same thing. Anybody have any up close pics of an angle run with a tin head/flusher after the mud is applied? Anybody apply mud with a wool roller then use a flusher? If so what kind of quality are you getting?


On smaller jobs ill mud up corners with a wool roller im generous with the mud and flush them turns out fine. Im not


----------

