# Flat Box settings, and #of coats after tape?



## Fergafinish (Apr 14, 2008)

Hey fellas just wondering on the northstar boxes what settings you use on good flat joints, Ive found that #3 w/ 12" on the 2nd coat is to crowned, so im thinking #2 w/ 10" & #2 w/ 12" followed by a skim(#1 w/ 12"). 

What do ya think?


----------



## Drywall1 (Dec 9, 2007)

Fergafinish said:


> Hey fellas just wondering on the northstar boxes what settings you use on good flat joints, Ive found that #3 w/ 12" on the 2nd coat is to crowned, so im thinking #2 w/ 10" & #2 w/ 12" followed by a skim(#1 w/ 12").
> 
> What do ya think?


It depends on how your box is set up and how old the blade is. Try using a straight edge to see how your joints are filling. After a while you will get the hang of it. 

Nate


----------



## Brockster (Dec 15, 2007)

I usually use a "good" 12 or 14" knife and check to see what the box is doing and adjust accordingly and recheck often. You will need to do this too when you change blades.


----------



## cooper (Apr 6, 2008)

Its obviously different for each box... The age of the blade and the little screws on the side will affect the tension and therefore affect your setting... But to answer your question with a more specific answer, I use Northstar taping tools and here is what I find myself typically doing:

First coat with 10"
Flats on 1/2" - 4 setting
Flats on 5/8" - 3 setting
Split out butts first coat on 1/2" - Wide open or 1
Split out butts first coat on 5/8" - Wide open... sometimes 1
Down center on butts in garages - wide open

Second coat with 12"
Flats on 1/2" - 4 or 5 setting
Flats on 5/8" - 4 setting
Down center on butts 1/2" - Wide open or 1
Down center on butts 5/8" - Wide open or 1
Split out butts in garages - wide open

The 'or' occurs depending on how the joint looks after I box it. If it is a butt and the tape is still showing I throw some more mud on it. If it is a butt and there are inconsistencies in the fill then I throw some more mud on it. If it is a flat and my trowel is rocking on it, then I put less mud on. If it is a flat and it is not filled all the way, then I put some more mud on... 

I typically find myself monkeying with the setting on butts more than flats. Flats have the recess and often are easy to fill, butts are the tricky ones... 


Why aren't there more drywall guys on this site. Is it because most drywallers don't have opposable thumbs?


----------



## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

for walls i use 10"box on #3 then use the aplatech-graco system to spray a finish coat with a tight wipe (box coat shrinks back flat when dry) the the spray coat is about 20" and flares out the flat.wall butts get a 30" trowl coat with tight skim for finish. ceilings that get textured get a 10" box coat on #3 over flats & butts, final the flats with a 12" box and spray a 20" spray coat over butts with a tight wipe. some say spray coating is a waste of time but i've been deficency free on flats for yrs. truer flatness, hump and pock free.


----------



## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

I use a Columbia box

first coat- 10" box set at 3
second coat is ither 10" box or 12, set at 4 (depending if I forget to bring both)
final coat is by hand!


----------



## S&SDRYWALL (Oct 21, 2008)

columbia and tapetech tools here, 10" first coat on flats #3, butts split on 0. 2nd coat 12"box..flats 4, butts 0 in the middle


----------



## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

Its so smart that everyone figured out using the #3 settings is better for a first coat than a #1 setting. I remember I use to use a number 1, and it does take away from looking good compared to a 3. Thin layers are the best way to achieve flat finish.


----------



## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

cooper said:


> Why aren't there more drywall guys on this site. Is it because most drywallers don't have opposable thumbs?


They're probably busy working instead of posting their drywall theories. :tt2:

With that said, I use:

Northstar 10" and 12". Flats only.


#3 on walls. #3 or #2 on lids if I thin the mud down.

2nd coat with 12": #4. If I don't feel like boxing, I'll polish by hand with hawk and trowel, because the box doesn't seem to have much time advantage unless both in our team box out.

It doesn't look like it's been mentioned before, but I believe thickness of mud on the first coat has some weight in the matter of getting a better finished product. I probably mix down heavier than most would want to. Perhaps 1 quart of water to a 5 gallon pail. Goes on smooth, little slop, and less shrinkage, I find. Really great for working my forearms and back.


----------



## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

The thicker you put it, the more it bubbles up, and longer it takes to dry. I do alot of commerical, so you know its stand-ups. When I pull the box out on 10-12 ft stand-ups, I need the mud very thin to barely reach with my extended tape tech pole, over a columbia box 10" at #3.


----------



## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

joepro0000 said:


> The thicker you put it, the more it bubbles up, and longer it takes to dry. I do alot of commerical, so you know its stand-ups. When I pull the box out on 10-12 ft stand-ups, I need the mud very thin to barely reach with my extended tape tech pole, over a columbia box 10" at #3.


 Honestly, I've never seen much bubbling with it heavier.
I hear you, though. It's hard running the box on stand-ups. You'll want to move up here if I told you all the commercial work here is not stand-up work. Even big-wall jobs.


----------



## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

we do get the option on those commerical demising walls to hang them horizontal, because its much easier lifting the board on a lift. But alot of supers are paranoid of those butt joints.


----------

