# Curing/drying time??



## cazna

Just wondering what people think about drying times of compounds, Ever noticed the tapered edge line showing through after a few months later under some down lights mounted to the wall??

I have a feeling it takes 30 days or so to fully cure and stop shrinking, depending on how thinned it is and type of mud of course.

What about the wall board, if its made a week before its hung and taped is this still curing?? Our board seems to be getting quite soft.


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## rhardman

*That's an interesting topic.*

On walls or lids where lighting was a possible issue I always went overboard hitting the first coat with a hotmud/plaster of paris mix and then skimmed everything out by hand real wide with AP then Sof Top (Hamiltons). Always turned out well but took a lot more time to do.

Looking forward to what other guys think about this... :thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

your dead on the money with curing,drywall the most important to be dry,good builders in our area use electric heat (driest heat) and dehumidifiers even in the summer (very humid here) as soon as they start hanging.mud shrinks tiny bit ,heard it takes 3 months to cure.hot muds worst ,sure they set in 20 minutes or so but take years to cure ,done warranty work before (20 years ago)where you go back to a house one year later,the hot mud (sheetrock)would shrink on the flats leaving a line to fill,and you could see the holes on the metal bead ,that bad!!
drywall most Important though,here's one story why!!!!!
15 years ago did a house in Sarnia (contracted it),kept telling the builder to give me heat in basement or dehumidifier (not my job to control the environment or weather) ,mister builder cheap and it's raining most of the week.Finish job.One week later calls me and sayz there's a butt in ceiling in basement that needs fixing(there's that i don't make money word {fix})turns out every joint and screw in basement needs another coat,you can see the tape,BUT upstairs every thing perfect (of coarse) he sayz I cheated on the coating in basement,try explaining the upstairs was more ventilated and drywall was dry while basement was not (plus bricky was using a big fan while working on fire place,which helps)He knew I was right ,even home owner knew too,but tells me to fix it or i wont work for him again,i choose not to (surprize you cazna) he's long gone ,I'm still working !
wet drywall affects curing of muds the most,other things like truss lift,studs shrinking,house settling,bad hanging jobs make our jobs look like **** too !


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## cazna

Thanks for that guys, it reasures me a bit, heres why i started this post.

The house im on i have taped the joins with sheetrock taping compound, then boxed it with a 10 then 12 using sheetrock total, sanded, then rolled and hand skimmed the walls and ceilings twice, radius 360 hand sanded it all down smooth as glass under twin 500watt halogens.

Painters have done there bit, electricans have fitted out the hallway with wall lights that shine up and down the walls. everything was looking great i was feeling so proud i felt it was my best work i could possiably do.

Anyway this house has concrete floor with water pipes and a big heat pump to heat the water to heat the floor and so on.
They have fired this up and warmed the house up and now in the hallway under the wall light you can see the line of the tape 

Devistated would be an under statement, im gutted, your replys have confermed my thought, its shrunk back into the taper, after all that work this happens 

We dont use heaters or dehumids here, no one has them and it costs a lot hire.

So how can i get a perfect level 5 finish then, i thought i had it sorted but it needs ages to dry, this house has been built fast, the owners sold there last place and have demanded a date to move in.

The things against me have been the rush, weathers been around 8 degrees which is not to bad, those  wall lights and the wall paint is a little on the shiny side, if it had different lights and a less shiny paint it would look a lot better, but it dosent.

Im plastering and painting out my next house and thankfully its smaller, they are having hanging lights and wall lights and its a house on a hill that gets bombed with sun, i dont want this to happen again 

Been at it for 13 years had the add join do this but its been in areas that has not been a concern, these new wall lights are becoming popular, and people are expecting perfect walls more now, its a bit unrealistic givin these things can happen to you.


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## 2buckcanuck

man, I can tell your a contractor that really cares,here's a few things that might help from a old fart that use to contract (now I sub)
- your mud boxes should state minimum temperature to work with,ours say 10 c,recommended 20 c or 60 f, I know ,they still may not supply heat etc... But you warned them (makes you feel little bit better if the sh*t hits the fan.
-to know for sure the drywall was moist when you taped it, and it dried out when they turned the heat on,push on the screws a bit,if they move then drywall was too moist,or if it looks like they need another coat is evidence too.
if it just looks like your joints are affected, quit using sheet rock,not joking ,sheet rock has it purposes but not for prefilling.
-prefill with straight stiff mud if you can,if you half to push use durabond instead ,it cures faster and forces that flat tape to dry quicker if you want to coat it the same day.Or try plaster of paris/lime, mix it with your mud,turns it pink and you have 5 minutes to get it on the wall ,(just for those small jobs)
-If your a hawk and trowel guy you can try veneer plaster for those small jobs ,but its weather sensitive http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Blueboard_and_Veneer_Plaster-Plaster_Walls-A1484.html 
sounds like your doing perfect work,you might half to invest in some heaters or fans,average temperature of 8 c is what got you on this job,and dont use propane heat either ,should be a warning on your mud boxes about that too.
bottom line sounds like you did nothing wrong,just that word sheet rock scares me(need lots of heat when using it),I got horror stories from using that stuff


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## cazna

I was a hawk and trowel guy for 10 years using hot mud for first two coats then all purpose for the final, but got tired of pushing it all by hand so started on the auto tools a few years ago.

Tryed the ES210, figured i could tape up with that but it was a hassel, one day it set after 90min solid in 2min flat, i had no time to get it out of my tools and it set solid, try getting that out of a gooseneck.

So then came the pemix stuff, tryed most of the sheetrock now, really liked the taping compound, runs and tapes up very well and the total boxes well, and its nice to sand.

I have noticed this shrinking before but this is just a bad one, to cold, house built to fast, plastered then painted then heated and wall lights, and the house is getting shaking up by vibrating rollers in the drive and the section next door getting preped up with diggers trucks and rollers.

Your heard some not good stuff about sheetrock?? like what??
We have not much choice here for compounds, Sheetrock, Hamiltions,Gib thats about it, Gib is the local made stuff and is hopeless for auto tools and cost more than the others, we have easy finish which seems to get a bad rap but it seems ok to me.

We have one type of wallboard which is made here called Gib, but some Knaf and baier seems to be showing up but ony in 1200mmx2400mm.

Its crazy, the board is made then stacked then sent to the hardware stores, kept in cold storage areas, then of to the job then hung which is the first time it gets any air around it and it might only be a week old, then i had to plasterer straight away, then paint, its a wonder it dosnt play up more, the timber frame is still moving and drying and we are expected to produce perfect walls, Huh, Yeah right.


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## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> I was a hawk and trowel guy for 10 years using hot mud for first two coats then all purpose for the final, but got tired of pushing it all by hand so started on the auto tools a few years ago.
> 
> Tryed the ES210, figured i could tape up with that but it was a hassel, one day it set after 90min solid in 2min flat, i had no time to get it out of my tools and it set solid, try getting that out of a gooseneck.
> 
> So then came the pemix stuff, tryed most of the sheetrock now, really liked the taping compound, runs and tapes up very well and the total boxes well, and its nice to sand.
> 
> I have noticed this shrinking before but this is just a bad one, to cold, house built to fast, plastered then painted then heated and wall lights, and the house is getting shaking up by vibrating rollers in the drive and the section next door getting preped up with diggers trucks and rollers.
> 
> Your heard some not good stuff about sheetrock?? like what??
> We have not much choice here for compounds, Sheetrock, Hamiltions,Gib thats about it, Gib is the local made stuff and is hopeless for auto tools and cost more than the others, we have easy finish which seems to get a bad rap but it seems ok to me.
> 
> We have one type of wallboard which is made here called Gib, but some Knaf and baier seems to be showing up but ony in 1200mmx2400mm.
> 
> Its crazy, the board is made then stacked then sent to the hardware stores, kept in cold storage areas, then of to the job then hung which is the first time it gets any air around it and it might only be a week old, then i had to plasterer straight away, then paint, its a wonder it dosnt play up more, the timber frame is still moving and drying and we are expected to produce perfect walls, Huh, Yeah right.


Man, your beating yourself up too much.

You got remember that enough light thrown at a wall will show some stuff.

We are finishing drywall, not painting cars.


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## 2buckcanuck

the only good thing I hear about sheet rock is...................................................I cant think of nothing 
I sorta remember you saying you deal with a small town,Im starting to see a pattern that the smaller the population base a taper deals with the more head aches they get,the larger the population base less head aches ,guys talk of sub contracting,union work and cool tools and materials to deal with,here in Ontario lots of land and population,just a theory mind you ?
now I half to google map New Zealand ,see what your dealing with there


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## cazna

I am in a small town, and your right, I think in citys there is less accountablity for what you do and in smaller areas most people know someone who knows someone.

 something up and the whole town knows.

Maybe i am beating myself up capt but to do better and figure stuff out is what gets me out of bed, I just enjoy the challange.

And i think you would find if you came here we and behind the times 2buck, McDusty who posts on here moved from canada to here found it all a bit backwards, i think hes fled back to canada now.


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## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Man, your beating yourself up too much.
> 
> You got remember that enough light thrown at a wall will show some stuff.
> 
> We are finishing drywall, not painting cars.


 half to agree with capt,old time taper asked me when I was 1st starting "do you try and do your best and make every job PERFECT" I said "YES" then he said "then your in the wrong business,go get a easel and be a artist" went on to say if your doing that perfect job and the JERK don't pay ,you could of been in your next house by now making up for your losses 
you half to be a dry wall whore, make the CUSTOMER happy ,not you,
So think like a hooker ,do what you got to do to make them happy ,then get their money
I'm a high priced one by the way


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## cazna

Good advice, Thanks.


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> I am in a small town, and your right, I think in citys there is less accountablity for what you do and in smaller areas most people know someone who knows someone.
> 
> something up and the whole town knows.
> 
> Maybe i am beating myself up capt but to do better and figure stuff out is what gets me out of bed, I just enjoy the challange.
> 
> And i think you would find if you came here we and behind the times 2buck, McDusty who posts on here moved from canada to here found it all a bit backwards, i think hes fled back to canada now.


I think you answered your questions on, why is this happening

First you admited "you figure stuff out" and you also said you enjoy the challange. 

I think you might be in the wrong trade cazna ,talking like that, or you are just still trying to figure it out.

Did you just say that?


Tip!

Learn the material and how it finishes with methods recommended by the manufactures suggested ways and pay attention to detail of the out come and adjust accordingly to obtain the finish desired. 

What more can I say?


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## Mudstar

rhardman said:


> On walls or lids where lighting was a possible issue I always went overboard hitting the first coat with a hotmud/plaster of paris mix and then skimmed everything out by hand real wide with AP then Sof Top (Hamiltons). Always turned out well but took a lot more time to do.
> 
> Looking forward to what other guys think about this... :thumbup:



Honestly that method of finishing is for small jobs and should not be attempted by any one wanting to to quality production work. Your dealing an unpredictable dry time that fools most, its sanding properties is yet to be desired by my standards, I could go into details but anyone that works with it knows this. I'm not saying I'm right but I know its easy to use drywall air dried compounds for finishing for best results.


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> I think you answered your questions on, why is this happening
> 
> First you admited "you figure stuff out" and you also said you enjoy the challange.
> 
> I think you might be in the wrong trade cazna ,talking like that, or you are just still trying to figure it out.
> 
> Did you just say that?
> 
> 
> Tip!
> 
> Learn the material and how it finishes with methods recommended by the manufactures suggested ways and pay attention to detail of the out come and adjust accordingly to obtain the finish desired.
> 
> What more can I say?


 
Mudstar you are a prick, you read my words and make bullsh!t up to suit your own fathead ego, feel good typing crap like that does it. Feel like the man do you!!!

I type a few lines that i like to learn things, most of us but obviously not you, never learn it all, products change, methods change, tools change, no one knows everything and i dont give a stuff how long you have been doing it, you dont know it all, You big hero. Easy to be brave over the internet isnt it, You use your imagination to figure out my reaction if you said that to my face.

So you have never made a mistake have you, or is your ego to big to admit it. 

I use this site for some help and feedback to better myself and help others, why are you here, your not helpful at all. PS F#$K YOU.

Looking Forward to your bullsh!it reply now big man, It will be crap and unhelpful so Fu%k you again in advance.


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> Honestly that method of finishing is for small jobs and should not be attempted by any one wanting to to quality production work. Your dealing an unpredictable dry time that fools most, its sanding properties is yet to be desired by my standards, I could go into details but anyone that works with it knows this. I'm not saying I'm right but I know its easy to use drywall air dried compounds for finishing for best results.


 
Rick said he used an air drying finishing compound, or are you in such a hurry to be a pompous arse you just skim read and fill in the blanks to suit your own pompous arse ego. Im thinking this is the case mr pompous arse.


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## Rolly

Casna, your work quality expectations and attitude sounds alot like mine.

I know we are not painting cars but I used to until an occupational deseas and I cant seem to help but try to put some automotive touch to my quality

all my pears constantly tell me that I go overboard with my quality but I cant help it, maybe I am in the wrong trade as well but I do get paid well for what I do (usually 10-20 cents more than the guy in the house next door.)

dont know if this will help but I prefill the day before tape, I prefill the entire flat with taping mud( a little looser than out of the box) using a 8" knife (platsic or VERY soft metal so as not to fill the beval). this will break up your drying time and allow you to leave less mud when taping, I find most tapers dont go this far but it is nessesary to have a nice sealed substrate to lay your tapes on to acheive (rediculous) quality.

I will post more later as I have to go to work now but 1 last thing, as you are in a small town like me it is easy to educate your builder......HEAT HEAT HEAT and get some FANS.

I used to own a big drywall company and the bottom line of my quote read something like this

CONTRACTOR IS RESPONSIBLE TO SUPPLY ADEQUATE HEAD TO MAINTAIN A MINIMUM OF 65 DEGREES UPON DELIVERY OF MATERIALS


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## rhardman

I'm all about tried and true methods but "figuring things out" keeps you on the bleeding edge of any new technology :thumbup: and gives you an advantage over your competitors.

Rick


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## cazna

Rolly said:


> Casna, your work quality expectations and attitude sounds alot like mine.
> 
> I know we are not painting cars but I used to until an occupational deseas and I cant seem to help but try to put some automotive touch to my quality
> 
> all my pears constantly tell me that I go overboard with my quality but I cant help it, maybe I am in the wrong trade as well but I do get paid well for what I do (usually 10-20 cents more than the guy in the house next door.)
> 
> dont know if this will help but I prefill the day before tape, I prefill the entire flat with taping mud( a little looser than out of the box) using a 8" knife (platsic or VERY soft metal so as not to fill the beval). this will break up your drying time and allow you to leave less mud when taping, I find most tapers dont go this far but it is nessesary to have a nice sealed substrate to lay your tapes on to acheive (rediculous) quality.
> 
> I will post more later as I have to go to work now but 1 last thing, as you are in a small town like me it is easy to educate your builder......HEAT HEAT HEAT and get some FANS.
> 
> I used to own a big drywall company and the bottom line of my quote read something like this
> 
> CONTRACTOR IS RESPONSIBLE TO SUPPLY ADEQUATE HEAD TO MAINTAIN A MINIMUM OF 65 DEGREES UPON DELIVERY OF MATERIALS


Thanks for stepping up and adding your first post Rolly, cheers for the support, I realise full well that its very hard to get it perfect and we are all in it for the money, but at what point do you accept this and stop trying?? I guess it depends on location and type of work you do as 2Buck said.

Maybe i havent been doing it long enough or lossed out on enough quotes yet to accept this, 16years, 12 self employed fully trade certified painter/ decorator/ interior plasterer. And 1 year pre trade carpentery polytech,
(What are you certified at Mudstar, My guess is An A+ at being a pompous arse and NOTHING else)

Im not ready to accept that some things are just good enough yet, i feel like a part of me would die if that were the case, ( then maybe i would do something else Mr Pompous Arse, Yes you Mudstar)

Im still making a living and getting my family by being this way, I get tons of work and have a great name for it so its working for me.

Anyway, thanks to Mr Pompous arse Mudstar we have lost track on this thread

Can anyone tell me what they think about Hot mud Vs Pre mix for taping? which Shrinks more or less, i thought Pre mix would Shrink more than Hot mud, but did you say otherwise 2buck? And i was NOT asking you Mr Pompous arse.


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## 2buckcanuck

welcome rolly,what rolly said is what I find the good tapers do here in Ontario (or else where in canada) pre fill with straight stiff mud out of the box,or add one cup or so to make it workable ,do every damn screw or nail in house ,we do the ones in the angles too !!!keep away from hot muds,do whole house with regular mud if you can,just mixing X amount of water to mud changes the property of the mud with sanding ,shrinkage,etc...hate to defend mudstar on you ,but that's what he's trying to say, just using two different brand of regular mud in a house can cause nightmares,then throw in hot muds ,holy!!!!,pre fill with regular mud makes huge difference ,don't do closets etc...would not worry if it's totally dry before taping but it's nice ,thats what i did today ,pre filled our next house(8000 sq ft 2 hrs or so )
this could be a new thread now ,WHO PREFILLS 1ST


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## Rolly

thanx 4 the welcome guys, I had to cut my previous post short as it was time for me to hit the road to work.

prefill is about cure/dry time in my books, its all about breaking up the depth of your aplications to limit the required drytime

cazna's original post was about a tapline showing through under critical light surcumstances after paint

for the last few years about 80% of our work has been big pig huge houses 'o' window, usually rite on the water with nothing but critical light walls all over them and we noticed the same problem sometimes.

we killed most of the problem with a overkill on the prefill....we PREFILL EVERYTHING ei the entire bevel, any deep bevels in the angle all screws/nails and absolutly any gap nomater how small, this allows for a much thinner mud to apply the tape which drys much faster.

the rest of the problem can actually be swelling (my own theory) not shrinking, from the moisture of the primer and paint, this can be fixed by applying a precoat surface equaliser, the equaliser will cause the same thing as the paint but it sands out easely in the equaliser....I use synko pro coat made by cgc, I dont know what they have in your area Cazna


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## 2buckcanuck

your right with the paint but it only swells the paper,not the bed rock underneath (rolling) now spraying is a different story .and if the dumb $%#^$&^ painter sprays without back rolling,dear lord what a mess,a good painter compliments our work,but lets not go there
you say your taping by a lake? for a experiment ,coat out a house one day (1st coat)then in a 10 x 10 (or so) bedroom set 2 or 3 five gallon buckets full of water,bet you the next day rest of your house is dry except that room with the buckets in it.
ever been on a large job site where mold strikes,want to see alot of drywall come down fast,drywall absorbs moister so fast.
but yes when use regular mud and not hotmud and go through the proper steps ,it does force the builder to control the environment if they ever want to see their job get done ,especially when it rains


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## cazna

Hi Rolly, great post, cheers and welcome.

We dont have that stuff here, its dulux, resene, wattyl and a few cheap spin offs, Dulux and Resene are the main brands.

The type of house you described is what i have just done.

So your saying to pre fill first, thats interesting, so first day i could run a 7 flatbox set tight, first coat all screws, cut out and fill the butts, fill the corner gaps, then tape the next day? Do you have any crowning problems?? I guess not as you would not be doing it.

It is an extra coat but it wouldnt take long and in critical light would be worth it.
The first full tape coat is quite a thick coat, what about hot mud mixed in with all purpose for first coat, i have never try it but some other members do this.

Hot mud in the bigger gaps?? would that not fill better than all purpose??

And fibafuse would allow better and faster drying as said in the fibafuse tread currently running, thats a great point made there by Bedroc.

And i never considered the paint swelling it, See thats what this site is for, help and advice from willing freindly like minded people, Great stuff now a have a few ideas for the next job to make it even better, thats what its all about. Your the man Rolly, And 2Buck.


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## 2buckcanuck

dont prefill corner gaps they could spit out on you down the road.when running around with bazooka ,say there is a gap in a corner 3 feet long 1/4" gap,run 3 foot tape over it ,and roll over it with roller,then tape over again,you double tape it,me and my worker call it a fixer tape (were creative) if the gap is 1/2' (fire hanger)fire 2 tapes on it,I call it chinese wall, your making mini sheet of drywall,and I think everyone saying dont use hot muds,
ask mudstar if he runs 7" first day just teasing lol ,I like to see that tape dry personally,some guys say if u prefill day before u can tape and coat next day,sh*t when i get all my tape on I'm going home,Im not hanging around to coat it,getting old
wish you could get better supplies where you live
ooooppps sorry ,this post for cazna ,&&^^%$ 1:30 off to bed


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## 2buckcanuck

read your post again cazna dont prefill with a 7" box ,like a tight skim,fill nails /screws in bevell and gaps,dont load bevell,some guys use 2" nail spotter to prefill tight if u have a good hanger in front of you,simple terms fill every black spot on walls,make walls pure white (not base of walls) gaps look dark too right ? if bevell is tight just single spot screws,bevell sits uneven level it ,but tight


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## cazna

Ok man, cheers, I was thinking a 7 box would way overfill it and leave to much on for the tape coat and cause a crowned joint, but the usg taping compound does shrink a lot and as you say could be my problem but if this compound was used first for a prefill then for taping that would dry better?? 

Or maybe my 5.5 drywallmaster flaxbox set tight which would actually crown into the bevel might just be the ticket, This little box would do that, fill all the screws and the centre and not fill up the bevel  Hey have you got one of these little boxes Rolly?? Might be the one for the prefill and make it fast?? Oh so much more to try and learn, im in heaven :thumbsup:

So you guys are only filling the screws and very centre of the joins first, let dry, then tape, makes sence for the cold weather you have, the lowest winter hits were i am is around 5degrees but thats only for a few weeks, average is around 8. other parts of NZ gets much lower. But we get nailed in the spring with rain rain rain.


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## Rolly

when I prefill the bevel I use a cheep $2 8" plastic knife
this allows me to "spot the bevel kinda like you would a screw (same motion)
this leave mud only in the nail holes and in the "v" where drywall meets drywall

for the big gaps in the angles I use con fill (miracle product)
if you cant get it there cazna, talk to your rep and harras him untill he finds a way to get it for you, this is also a synko/cgc product.

off too work now but will post more tonight as I think this thread is more about producing a lvl5 product under difficult circumstances wich includes drytime issues, I dont think your only problem is dry time, I think the trades(ie painters, framers) sorrounding you and your builder need to catch up to your standards caz.

TIP.... every once and a while do a 2(or 3) coat cookei cutter where every one involved expects you only to be a taper not a magition, It releaves stress and helps build your momentum back up after a big hard BEAR:yes:


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> Mudstar you are a prick, you read my words and make bullsh!t up to suit your own fathead ego, feel good typing crap like that does it. Feel like the man do you!!!
> 
> I type a few lines that i like to learn things, most of us but obviously not you, never learn it all, products change, methods change, tools change, no one knows everything and i dont give a stuff how long you have been doing it, you dont know it all, You big hero. Easy to be brave over the internet isnt it, You use your imagination to figure out my reaction if you said that to my face.
> 
> So you have never made a mistake have you, or is your ego to big to admit it.
> 
> I use this site for some help and feedback to better myself and help others, why are you here, your not helpful at all. PS F#$K YOU.
> 
> Looking Forward to your bullsh!it reply now big man, It will be crap and unhelpful so Fu%k you again in advance.



That was advice and to try and help you out.

If you read your post your the one changing your methods all the time.

Trying to make something better then it is tells me that its not as good as you like it.

Take the words I say they way wish but I will never call you a name.

I hope you feeling better today.


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## mudslingr

I have always prefilled large gaps and small dings with Sheetrock90. When I tape I like to use an 8" knife and make sure to fill the whole bevel after I wipe thus leaving your next coat (first) fairly thin. Just have to make sure that you embed the tape or else when it drys it will have a hump to it. Don't want that ! 
As far as the bevel shadow goes, those can be a real pisser ! I can usually tell after first coat is dry whether or not I will have this issue. That's when I just quit groaning and just turn it into a butt joint. Problem solved !
I do very many mudding jobs next to lakes and this problem usually happens to joints nearest the lake and on walls higher than 8'. No idea why other than moisture and possibly the wall contour from top to bottom from what I've seen anyway.
I have also noticed that 54" drywall is not too consistent in the size of it's bevels and that can throw you off.
This job is definitely a challenge and there's nothing wrong with trying to do a perfect job although we all know it never is. ( to us )


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## wnybassman

mudslingr said:


> I have also noticed that 54" drywall is not too consistent in the size of it's bevels and that can throw you off.


There can be a big difference in bevels between 1/2" and 5/8" drywall too. Usually on 5/8" we put an extra coat on it because it is often a deeper bevel.

The painting process adds a ton of moisture into the home as well. I have seen it where it re-moistens the compound and re-shrinks when that dries. We had one house 10-12 years ago where the homeowner decided it was a good idea to spray a coat of primer and two coats of paint on the walls in one day, in April, after being terribly wet and humid all week. Argued with the homeowner about what was going on but we ended up skimming a bunch of stuff to make him happy. That was an extreme case, but it happens all the time to a lesser degree (and with inexperienced painters).


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## 2buckcanuck

wnybassman I feel your pain with your paint story,been there done that lol ,maybe some one should start a "stupid painters and paint stories ",if it has not been done yet ,I have some stories :blink::furious:
And whats with all of us Canucks joining this site all of a sudden (me being one of them  )


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## cazna

You Canucks are awsome, great bunch i must say :thumbsup: You have some huge lakes too, prob bigger than my whole country  they must chop up with some big swells in a storm???

Cut an off cut of board and put the bevels together on a bench and put the 5.5 drywallmaster flatbox on it for a look and it fits the bevel perfect, and the blade does crown into it, not quite the full way but close, yes it will come back up when you mud the join a bit but it would mud it fast and maybe just a quick wipe out then you would have a good prefill, need to experiment but it could be ok, wouldnt that be faster and tidyer than a pan and knife?? Will find out all in good time.

And the paint wetting and shrinking the plaster is a new one on me?? maybe thats what happened it the joins??
I have been spraying the sealer on walls and ceilings, spraying ceilings twice (havent back rolled, they look great) HVLP spraying the doors/frames/windows then rolling 2 coats on the walls and it turns out great, most painters here and brush and roll, a few spray the sealer only. I didnt paint this job i have just done, to big.

Didnt mean to go off track, This is a drywall forum, tryed the painters forum but its a busy place and hard to get a word in and a bit hard to follow for me, its all different words and materials, Takin me a while to get what you call lids we call ceilings. Would like it if you started a painters horror storys and a who pre fills first thread 2Buck, They would be a couple of very interesting threads.


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## 2buckcanuck

hey cazna it never snows here,we just tell the yanks it does,keeps them down south,Mexicans afraid of the stuff,See , if the Americans would learn from us,they should put piles of snow at their boarders and it would keep the Mexicans out
hear you roll paint after spray to mat the wall,spreads more even,stops it from soaking into walls ,and most just spray for primer.could go on but paint boring
not to confuse ,but for minimum prefill ,hit gaps and butts,instead of prefilling every bevel,you could go 10" -12" box then skim by hand.no hot muds ,let nature take its coarse and let things dry naturally .i"ll start those threads tomorrow after work ,tired !!


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## moore

Rolly said:


> Casna, your work quality expectations and attitude sounds alot like mine.
> 
> I know we are not painting cars but I used to until an occupational deseas and I cant seem to help but try to put some automotive touch to my quality
> 
> all my pears constantly tell me that I go overboard with my quality but I cant help it, maybe I am in the wrong trade as well but I do get paid well for what I do (usually 10-20 cents more than the guy in the house next door.)
> 
> dont know if this will help but I prefill the day before tape, I prefill the entire flat with taping mud( a little looser than out of the box) using a 8" knife (platsic or VERY soft metal so as not to fill the beval). this will break up your drying time and allow you to leave less mud when taping, I find most tapers dont go this far but it is nessesary to have a nice sealed substrate to lay your tapes on to acheive (rediculous) quality.
> 
> I will post more later as I have to go to work now but 1 last thing, as you are in a small town like me it is easy to educate your builder......HEAT HEAT HEAT and get some FANS.
> 
> I used to own a big drywall company and the bottom line of my quote read something like this
> 
> CONTRACTOR IS RESPONSIBLE TO SUPPLY ADEQUATE HEAD TO MAINTAIN A MINIMUM OF 65 DEGREES UPON DELIVERY OF MATERIALS


YES!!!! THIS IS MY FAVORITE THREAD!!!:yes: read away please!


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## Jason

Rolly said:


> I used to own a big drywall company and the bottom line of my quote read something like this
> 
> CONTRACTOR IS RESPONSIBLE TO SUPPLY ADEQUATE HEAD


 
Not sure if I want to work for a guy who will sign that contract!

Not judging!


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## cazna

Jason said:


> Not sure if I want to work for a guy who will sign that contract!
> 
> Not judging!


 
Hahaha, Didnt see that one :thumbsup:


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## fenez

one major reason for excessive shrinkage is over thinning the mud, (says it right on the can or box) unfortunately if you use auto tools you have no choice.


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## jmr

2buckcanuck said:


> hey cazna it never snows here,we just tell the yanks it does,keeps them down south,Mexicans afraid of the stuff,See , if the Americans would learn from us,they should put piles of snow at their boarders and it would keep the Mexicans out


we aint scared of snow in mn.. we let the southerners come up here to fish and then we migrate to your neck of the woods to slay walleye. 

@cazna, and yes, their lakes get choppy as sh*t..


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## ChicagoHandyman

great post, temperature is one of those things us newbies, might forget to consider when bidding a project. I think i will bring a few space heaters along on my next few project just in case.


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## Bazooka-Joe

Caz a Cargo ship sails from Chicago to Thunder Bay for Canadian Grain, seen it meself.

They made a song you may heard of, The Wreck of the Ole Fitzgerald, Lake Superior swallowed it up,

Takes 500 years for that lake to change its water from all the streams that leak into it, first I went to superior I could not see the other side

forget surfer Joe went to Huntington beach one week where the annual surfer convention meet... the day i went to Superior it was windy, neva seen waves that big on a lake...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJLAyrTN5Fc



























ice fish


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## cazna

Great song that Joe, One of my favs.

And the bell tolls 29 times for the men of the Edmund Fitzgerald.

4 Years ago a coal mine here blew up Joe, Theres 29 men still in there. Its becoming a tomb.


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## Bazooka-Joe

cazna said:


> Great song that Joe, One of my favs.
> 
> And the bell tolls 29 times for the men of the Edmund Fitzgerald.
> 
> 4 Years ago a coal mine here blew up Joe, Theres 29 men still in there. Its becoming a tomb.



crazy


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## cazna

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pike_River_Mine_disaster


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## Mr.Brightstar

That lake never warms up. Ive been up there in the summer and it is so cold. The water is crystal clear. Its a great lake tho no salt and no sharks. 


http://youtu.be/R3RC9BjZj2I


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## Bazooka-Joe

ChicagoHandyman said:


> great post, temperature is one of those things us newbies, might forget to consider when bidding a project. I think i will bring a few space heaters along on my next few project just in case.


got a garage one winter, bro says no way, too cold, so I bid high and walked


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