# mudding over paint



## tricounty dwall

ive been doing this over 15 years and havent seen a trick for this yet.. is there any way anyone knows how to keep mud from airbubbling when u mud over paint.. i always have to put a extra coat on to fill the pop marks


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Read some of your posts dude...love to let you know...but then you might be outa a job:whistling2:


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## tricounty dwall

well u dont have to tell me.. theres more ppl out here than u that know..


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## git-r-dun

heres the trick, put it on as you do normally then let it sit for a few mins then whip it again. works for me.


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## tricounty dwall

ok ty.. jw because im doing a remodel and have a cpl of patches.. and i hate that crap


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## DSJOHN

I,ve found putting a good primer[like Adirondack] on 1st works,but then you lose a day. Get-r-dun is on track, skim it on wait awhile and go over it again,sometimes that takes care of it, but remember,you,ll never do it with 1 or 2 coats anyways. JOHN


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## Saul_Surfaces

i've heard sanding the paint with 80grit works (but haven't tried it), and I'm curious if running over the surface with one of those round topped red zinnser wallpaper scorer things would help (since its the paint's refusal to let moisture into the board that bubbles the mud). But in the past I've just suffered and wiped the extra time, and coated the extra coat.


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## tricounty dwall

yeah i usually durabond it.. but as u know mud or burabond gets air holes as soon as u put it on.. ive done that waited like 10 minutes and wiped it again and it helped some.. i was just wondering u can mix something in it or something like that.. because we mix dawn in the mud sometimes to help with air holes


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## Bill from Indy

over paint, soap actually makes the mud worse....because it makes it to where it don't stick to the paint..it is a reaction when going over acrylic paints, eggshell, satin, semigloss...the paints are made to be washable..

some here may not agree, but this has worked for me...

t/b your patch with easysand or durabond..you don't have to wait till it is dry, but set...then prime the area...after the primer is dry, then skim...you won't get the bubbles because the bed and paint is resealed...you can wait till the quickset is dry, but i don't....just scrape the lap marks and prime...you got to skim anyways so it will cover the ridges and edges..


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## tricounty dwall

i got ya.. this site is good.. im always up for learning new tricks from pros.. like i said ive been doing it 15 years but u always learn something new every day.. and u cant find out if u dont ask


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## MinotDrywall

Load up the area with mud, wait maybe 10 seconds, strike it all off, then reapply like normal. This works every time for me with the best results. It will only then bubble (maybe) on the very edges. If it does, the edges will be dry in about a half hour anyway, then just come back and skim those areas with your 6.


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## cazna

MinotDrywall said:


> Load up the area with mud, wait maybe 10 seconds, strike it all off, then reapply like normal. This works every time for me with the best results. It will only then bubble (maybe) on the very edges. If it does, the edges will be dry in about a half hour anyway, then just come back and skim those areas with your 6.


 
Interesting? Gonna give this one a go, thanks.


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## Saul_Surfaces

MinotDrywall said:


> Load up the area with mud, wait maybe 10 seconds, strike it all off, then reapply like normal. This works every time for me with the best results. It will only then bubble (maybe) on the very edges. If it does, the edges will be dry in about a half hour anyway, then just come back and skim those areas with your 6.


if that seriously works I'll owe you a case of beer


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## tricounty dwall

ive got some ceilings to skim tommorow. Can u use any kind of primer to seal if to keep it from pitting? Or what kind is best


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## DSJOHN

If you cant find Adirondack Primer[black bucket] I,ve had good luck with kilz2


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## PrairrieDogExpress

I agree with Minot. Put mud on, take it off completely, then coat it heavier and you should not have any bubbles. Works for me.


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## MinotDrywall

When do I get my beer?!?:icon_cool:


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## DSJOHN

After the mud dries


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## tricounty dwall

i agree and thats what i was trying to avoid was the bubbles. I usually do that but i amd reskimming about 400 sq of ceiling for a woman. so i dont want to mud it that much, i primed it today and ran a coat. No bubbles. The primer is the way to go.


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## DSJOHN

told ya!!!


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## moore

In My travels I've noticed .. If your not going to prime the surface first before tape . Don't touch a bag of hot mud!!! Do It all with A/P.


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## cazna

Put some pva in it. Add a little ap. Hot mud that sticks. Hotuds only for co heasion to paper. Ap works by ad heasion.


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## Krsw85

I just finished a job with sheet rock brand blue lid plus 3 joint compound. It had almost no reaction to paint. It was good enough I put 2 coats on some bad joints and there are no pinholes or bubbled.... the second coat started to bubble, but the joint was no longer hollow. I just whiped it down a few more time... mint.... also if you prime it first I hear that works. But would require priming the job twice.


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## moore

Krsw85 said:


> I just finished a job with sheet rock brand blue lid plus 3 joint compound. It had almost no reaction to paint. It was good enough I put 2 coats on some bad joints and there are no pinholes or bubbled.... the second coat started to bubble, but the joint was no longer hollow. I just whiped it down a few more time... mint.... also if you prime it first I hear that works. But would require priming the job twice.


I've had a few other finishers tell me the same thing about the light weight mud over paint. I've never tried it yet.


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## Krsw85

I don't know what weight this stuff is, up to 25? less it says, its the dust control stuff. From USG... I've used a lot of mud and done a lot of patch and match, nothings worked on it quite as good as this stuff.


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## thefinisher

Light weight stuff doesn't tend to bubble as much. I figured because it doesn't contain or need as much water as we know over paint it only dries from one side. Best thing i have found that works is to use straight setting mud with a bit of glue for proper adhesion. This way you can let it bubble and then just burnish/slick up the mud when it sets to rid of any bubbles, pin holes, or lap marks. Basically just take everything to a full skim with setting mud and then do a final tight pull with the pre mixed mud of your choice.


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## moore

Krsw85 said:


> I don't know what weight this stuff is, up to 25? less it says, its the dust control stuff. From USG... I've used a lot of mud and done a lot of patch and match, nothings worked on it quite as good as this stuff.


All light weight compounds are pretty much the same . After 12 years in the trade I would think you'd know this.


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## Krsw85

Im using red top proform right now, mid weight, what percentage is it of the weight of AP.... its doesn't specify a weight class... if you want to start an argument you could atleast be real about it.....


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## Krsw85

Krsw85 said:


> Im using red top proform right now, mid weight, what percentage is it of the weight of AP.... its doesn't specify a weight class... if you want to start an argument you could atleast be real about it.....


 This stuff boded well and fully dried... it was baked on....


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## moore

Krsw85 said:


> Im using red top proform right now, mid weight, what percentage is it of the weight of AP.... its doesn't specify a weight class... if you want to start an argument you could atleast be real about it.....


Mid Weight is a watered down version of regular All purpose. 

It ain't that hard to figure out !!


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## Krsw85

Any way, your right... it is classified as light weight.... this one is a good firmula is all I can say. The bonding was great... as good as any AP I've used on paint. Has a really nice texture too. Needs very little mixing, I didnt bother because Im using a pan and broad knife, as soon as you compress it, it creams right up....


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## jon flaker

When I first got in the trade the mud used to say 50 pounds on AP, and topping. it was about a year later they came out with lightweight plus3. It was 1987 when I started.


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