# Now I know why I dislike hot mud...



## 1/2 irish

I used hot mud years ago when I was starting out in the taping world and nevered liked it. Stopped after the first project house. I have been using the Green Bucket for years and nevered looked back until today. Awwgggg....Now I know why I dislike Hot Mud. You need electricity, an extension cord, 1/2 drill, mixing wand, clean empty buckets, water, water & more water for cleaning buckets, and a good laborer to mix up a good & consistant mixture, and more water to clean of tools at the end of the day. No more, I am not using hot mud anymore. What was I thinking?? How do you guys that like it get used to it?? So much crap you need for this type of compound.


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## drywall guy158

i only use it on small jobs.....1 room projects-repair work


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## mudslingr

A good taper ALWAYS uses it. Not my opinion, just a fact !


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## SlimPickins

I glue some balls to my vagina and get over it:jester:


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## cazna

SlimPickins said:


> I glue some balls to my vagina and get over it:jester:


 
:laughing: You still need all that gear for regular muds, It needs thinned dosent it??


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## fr8train

cazna said:


> :laughing: You still need all that gear for regular muds, It needs thinned dosent it??


I suppose that you could add your water and mix it up with one of those potato masher things if there was no power. But who wants to work without a radio anyway. I'd say wait to tape until the power is on!


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## carpentaper

patches and repairs. i second that. if i need it to last more than 20 minutes i don't even like using it. i usually just mix by hand in the bottom of a bucket with my six inch. that gives you an idea of how much i use at a time. i HATE cleaning it off my tools and cleaning my buckets and just generally farting around losing the time i just saved. but it does have its place and i use hotmuds all the time. almost everyday.


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## 2buckcanuck

mudslingr said:


> A good taper ALWAYS uses it. Not my opinion, just a fact !


guess I suck then, never touch the crap:yes:


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## MacDry

I am not a fan of chemical muds. Hot muds, fast set, whatever! Dont like it. Give me a box of synko and im happy as a pig in ..... mud :jester:


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## Kiwiman

SlimPickins said:


> I glue some balls to my vagina and get over it:jester:


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## 1/2 irish

*Good to have women in the taping business....*

Too all you see what I mean in using any type of hot mud, the mixing part.
Yes they do have a place in the taping world, Just like women: SlimPickins.......:whistling2: Thanks for being a part of it......
Cazna - and no thinning the mud, I just use it staight out of the bucket and mix it on my hawk if need be to the consistancy I want. 
And yes on a radio I usually have on my Ipod on to some good tunes, thanks fr8train. 
Carpentaper Hi-Fy back to you. Again, I know there are good reasons for hot mud, but until then....Go Green Bucket!! and never looking back.


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## Final touch drywall

You use green for everything? & never had to mix 1 bucket.:confused1:
Damn bet you have a lot of sanding to do @ the end of the job.

Fast set or hot mud as you call it, is the best,no shrinking,no cracking, hard as a rock & will dry in a bucket of water.To top it off,mold hates the stuff.:thumbsup:
Once the gravy flats are done, it goes back in the van,then back to regular mud.We couldn't live without the stuff.:yes:


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## rebel20

2buckcanuck said:


> guess I suck then, never touch the crap:yes:


careful 2buck but then the Vario is a all purpose.

rebel


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## moore

yes hot mud is a pain. 
i tape all butts @ seams with 90 min year round.
don't block in butts with it , unless i have to.
n/g ss 90 great to work with. usg also a ok hot mud.
ruco-tuff rock- hot muds SUCK !
vario is the true hot mud a/p i look forward to using more of it. 
i do agree with capt. hot mud is a quick setting compound , not fast drying.
bucket mud only takes a frog hair longer to completely cure . 
i still say, applying tape with hot mud is stronger......

:hang:


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## 1/2 irish

*As Confusius once said.....*

...final touch - not sure why you think there is a lot of sanding? :confused1:
If you three coat and pull tight on all the coats then there is minimal sanding at best. And it does help if you tape good if not great. :whistling2:
One type of mud and buying it by the pallets. Nevered had a problem or call backs. 
As Confusius once said, "mud pulled tight makes sanding light." :chinese:


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## srman

I use 5 min proform sometimes up to four bags a week whether its doing patches or several boards at a time Ive come to realize for some reason that with easy sand the quicker it dries the less it shrinks. Ill only do one trip jobs with 5 if you use 20,45,90, etc it cures and will look like crap when you come back. Also if you hang a patch cut the recess edge off because if you dont it will shrink.


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## McDusty

2buckcanuck said:


> guess I suck then, never touch the crap:yes:



i second that, never touch the crap unless i am filling the stupid 1" gaps beside bathtubs & showers.


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## Goodmanatee

If you don't use hot mud ( joint filler in the U.K. ), how do you get over large holes that you have to cut out due to damaged plaster board. Especially in the ceilings?

Love the balls on vigina! Great saying.


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## cazna

They still use it for that dude.

I dont get what all the complaints for hot muds is about, I used it for ten years for taping and second coat then one premix for finish, and it always worked well, In fact gave me less trouble than pre mix, Its just the fact that i went from hand tools to autotools that made me switch, It is nice that you can work all day and only clean up once, but i never had one hassel with hotmuds, Prob 80% of all work in nz would be hot muds then one premix, Yeah ok its prehistoric, And swinging on a trowel is slow and hard, But it does work, very well.


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## 2buckcanuck

Goodmanatee said:


> If you don't use hot mud ( joint filler in the U.K. ), how do you get over large holes that you have to cut out due to damaged plaster board. Especially in the ceilings?
> 
> Love the balls on vigina! Great saying.


I think a lot has to do with where you live and the environment.
Where we live the builders have accepted the fact their greedy [email protected] and want us in and out as fast as they can so they can get their money. They will supply us electric heat even in the summer, so we have no drying issues. Better to make a fast nickle than a slow dime (sorry,no british translation for that).
plus our rockers do perfect work, We just prefill the butts b/c they "V" them out.

Maybe you guys need hotmud in england, I hear it rains all the time so....It also Sounds like you guys maybe like the kiwi"s, their builders supply no heat and it's humid there all the time (so I hear).
HEY,,,is it true you guys like sheep too:whistling2:


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## Goodmanatee

The English don't like sheep it's the welsh who are the stero typical sheep shaggers.
Back to the topic. The way I was taught was fibre tape and hot mud. It's what i'm use to.
Doing a big job at the moment and it's all paper tape. I know it's a bit of a sore subject on here paper verses fibre. But i'm so much quicker with fibre and hot mud.
And you rarely get perfect boarding over here. So you can't just fly straight in with the paper have to get the filler out first to fill the large holes in internals, damaged board, before you can get out bazooka and tape up.
Watch the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves.
How do you tape up the higher stuff you can't get the bazooka to. Ceiling heigh on the job 3.5 metres. No stilts allowed any tips?


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## 2buckcanuck

Goodmanatee said:


> The English don't like sheep it's the welsh who are the stero typical sheep shaggers.
> Back to the topic. The way I was taught was fibre tape and hot mud. It's what i'm use to.
> Doing a big job at the moment and it's all paper tape. I know it's a bit of a sore subject on here paper verses fibre. But i'm so much quicker with fibre and hot mud.
> And you rarely get perfect boarding over here. So you can't just fly straight in with the paper have to get the filler out first to fill the large holes in internals, damaged board, before you can get out bazooka and tape up.
> Watch the pennies and the pounds will look after themselves.
> How do you tape up the higher stuff you can't get the bazooka to. Ceiling heigh on the job 3.5 metres. No stilts allowed any tips?


must be a lot of welsh men in NZ :whistling2:
3.5 m, think that's around 12 feet. You could make a bazooke extension but they can be a pain in the a$$. Our secret weapon is a wiping knife on a pole, used to wipe the flats on cieling. And a mini baker scaffold to act as a movable work table, we use it to set the tube,roller,angle wiper and mud pan on when doing angles, for quick access.other than that, we just keep climbing a four step with the bazooka and keep picking away at it.
But we can use the stilts though , so.....


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## Bevelation

mudslingr said:


> A good taper ALWAYS uses it. Not my opinion, just a fact !





2buckcanuck said:


> guess I suck then, never touch the crap:yes:


I must be a bad taper too.

What will make your eyes roll even more is that many guys here insist on using only Concrete Fill for pre-fill. Not for much longer, hopefully.


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## M T Buckets Painting

When I have to use alot of hot mud, I mix about 2 gallons at a time with a paint mixer in my cordless drill. I often add about two 6" knives full of regular compound into it to add to the workability of it. ...And I always add about 2 good squirts of dish soap to it. None of the things I add to the hot mud affect the set time but, they sure help in making it easier to knife down. 

Just this weekend me and another guy finished two rooms and a stairwell using the above mentioned mixing technique and had no problems at all. 

I do clean all the tools after about the third time mixing to prevent premature setting times.


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## Goodmanatee

2buckcanuck said:


> must be a lot of welsh men in NZ :whistling2:
> 3.5 m, think that's around 12 feet. You could make a bazooke extension but they can be a pain in the a$$. Our secret weapon is a wiping knife on a pole, used to wipe the flats on cieling. And a mini baker scaffold to act as a movable work table, we use it to set the tube,roller,angle wiper and mud pan on when doing angles, for quick access.other than that, we just keep climbing a four step with the bazooka and keep picking away at it.
> But we can use the stilts though , so.....


Managed to reach the ceiling, just with the bazooka. on tippy toes. I'll post some pics soon. Knike on a stick.( like to call it a S.O.D. or spear of distiny). First mix to wet and i got messy and i never get messy. Once gear was right, got my techique down in about 30 mins. Massive ceiling taped 2 hours. Quiet pleased with myself, first high ceiling i've strapped with bazooka.


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## fr8train

2buckcanuck said:


> Our secret weapon is a wiping knife on a pole, used to wipe the flats on cieling.


http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Wipedown-Knives/TapePro-Plastic-Wipedown-Knife

Something like this is what I think 2buck is talking about


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## ns005

How does a taper never use hot mud? I dont use it everyday but it deff. has its uses. I use it on everyjob before I start taping when I cut out and prefill bad areas. I also got in the habit of just prefilling all the butt joints and any gaps in the bands. 2buck, when u V the butts out, do you fill the V in before you tape or just tape over it? Wouldnt the tape kind of sink into the V? Just curious


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## 2buckcanuck

ns005 said:


> How does a taper never use hot mud? I dont use it everyday but it deff. has its uses. I use it on everyjob before I start taping when I cut out and prefill bad areas. I also got in the habit of just prefilling all the butt joints and any gaps in the bands. 2buck, when u V the butts out, do you fill the V in before you tape or just tape over it? Wouldnt the tape kind of sink into the V? Just curious


I'm a pre fill nut, so yes ,it is prefilled before I tape it.
it does shrink back a bit, but it's so minor it's nothing to worry about. with the way we do the butts it would get a pre fill, tape, coat, skim, that equals four coats so.......
We also only pre-fill the gaps on the flats. Any gaps in the angles we fire a tape on with godzookie, and roll it, then proceed with normal taping routine.We call it a fixer tape, or making Chinese drywall.
Around here they frown on pre-filling with Sheetrock (brand name) it can cause a spit line in the joint a year or so down the road. Durabond won't, but why use it if you don't half to. Straight stiff mud right out of the box is stronger than you think. And it has low shrinkage b/c no water has been mixed with it:yes:


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## ns005

I often add about two 6" knives full of regular compound into it to add to the workability of it. ...And I always add about 2 good squirts of dish soap to it. None of the things I add to the hot mud affect the set time but, they sure help in making it easier to knife down. 


I'm pretty sure adding regular mud to hot mud makes it last longer. I have mixed it half and half before and ran bead for hours. You can work with longer and be sure that it will set up over night. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I've worked for a company that made you run bead like this and that was the theory. Plus it's stronger and doesn't shink as much. I typically don't do this but have in the past.


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## 2buckcanuck

depends on what bead your using
days of old they wanted a hotmud coat on the metal bead, with paper bead I see no need. There are some who throw a few scoops of hotmud with their mud, they think it speeds up the drying process.
I don't like to interchange drywall compounds that much, it affects the sanding process. So if you use a hotmud, then coat over it with regular mud, if there is any high points in the hotmud. Then it's called good luck at sanding them out.
I prefer to use the same type of mud all the way through a job, except on the glazing of the angles, but that's a whole other thread


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## moore

dish soap? no no:whistling2:


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## ns005

ive never heard of using it in hot mud. Some people use it in lite mud but I never really have. I hear it burns your eyes sanding that crap. I dont really care for dust in my eyes much less with dish soap in it too. I hear it makes for less pock marks but sounds like more of a gimmick to me.


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## 2buckcanuck

dish soap is for wife's , along with the dirty dishes:whistling2:
Are there any lady tapers out there:jester::whistling2:


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## moore

I've tried the soap thing once , just for sh!ts @ giggles.
slid right off my hawk on to the floor.
i don't like mud on my floors..


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## cazna

Just a teaspoon per bucket is enough.


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## ns005

what does it really do? why not laundry detergent or hand soap? just seems goofy


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## jmr

dish soap reduces air pocks and allows for faster mixing.. you can achieve the same results by mixing longer.. sanders bitch if you use it, otherwise no down side really..


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## cazna

ns005 said:


> what does it really do? why not laundry detergent or hand soap? just seems goofy


Smoother to work with and less poks, bubbles, fish eyes etc, whatever you guys call em. But dont overdo it. I find it improves boxing.

Our nz mud manufacters told me a teaspoon per bucket helps, And it does, They should add it themselves, I use yellow sunlight dishwash liquid.


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## Final touch drywall

Has anyone tried peeling paper tape off the wall after bedded in with fast set 90??How about mesh??You can't>>>>>>That's enough for me to never stop using it.Its a stronger product,plain & simple.:thumbup:


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## moore

cazna said:


> Smoother to work with and less poks, bubbles, fish eyes etc, whatever you guys call em. But dont overdo it. I find it improves boxing.
> 
> Our nz mud manufacters told me a teaspoon per bucket helps, And it does, They should add it themselves, I use yellow sunlight dishwash liquid.


will it cause a problem for the puppys?


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## Drywaller

I use hot mud on most jobs I do, And have had no problems.
Within the last few years some 2 jobs I have done have had some water damage,1 job was a Alouette modular nightmare home made in Canada.I hung taped with hot mud and the homeowner called me about 3 to 4 weeks later saying they could see the screws showing in the ceiling,I went to look at it and the bathroom above ceiling they never hooked up the shower drain from the factory,The durabond wasnt affected from the water until 3 weeks later.
Another job had a base board hot water pipe burst above the ceiling and same thing only screws where showing,It was minor and all he had to do is re screw and repaint with kilz and all was good.If it was taped with the paper and regular mud,It would of cost them a lot more to repair.Just a plus in my opinion for hot mud.


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## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> Has anyone tried peeling paper tape off the wall after bedded in with fast set 90??How about mesh??You can't>>>>>>That's enough for me to never stop using it.Its a stronger product,plain & simple.:thumbup:


:thumbsup:I agree ... i tape butts and seams with ss 90 year round.
butt hot mud will freeze the same as a/p. maintain a proper temp.
[if possible] ..


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## cazna

Final touch drywall said:


> Has anyone tried peeling paper tape off the wall after bedded in with fast set 90??How about mesh??You can't>>>>>>That's enough for me to never stop using it.Its a stronger product,plain & simple.:thumbup:


Oh yes, and you can tear the tape or mesh out of taping or all purpose cant you??? :icon_rolleyes: It maybe stronger but is it brittle FTD :yes:, I used it for a decade, Then woke up. Yeah it works, But is it the fastest?? Fast=money but without comprising quality.



moore said:


> will it cause a problem for the puppys?


What choo talkin bout willis????


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## moore

painters.


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## ChicagoTaper215

You just quoted my father!! thumbs up!


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## moore

jmr said:


> dish soap reduces air pocks and allows for faster mixing.. you can achieve the same results by mixing longer.. sanders bitch if you use it, otherwise no down side really..


 I am the sander! what .. am i freak or something . yous guys to good to sand. who are the sanders?? I would NEVER sub out the sanding!
my finish/my sanding!


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## smisner50s

moore said:


> I am the sander! what .. am i freak or something . yous guys to good to sand. who are the sanders?? I would NEVER sub out the sanding!
> my finish/my sanding!


 damn skippy my rock my mud my sanding.....im not handing it over for some one to over or undersand and make me look bad....if i f-up i owne up ...


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## RocknRoller

No more hot mud on tub flanges for me. T-Tex new shower bead is my fav. 7th time using it and it's fast and no mess


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