# Level 5 finish issues



## Kappa (Feb 13, 2021)

Certain time of day sunlight shines on wall and shows every imperfections. I did not do original work and was called in to fix. I Gave 2 coats of level 5 on existing painted walls with red cgc compound. Sanded at the end with 150 sponge paper as I've always done with no issues.. After primed you can see air bubbles and lots of scratches from sanding when sun shines on wall.. I have lots of experience with level 5 and never had these issues. 

Added no poke and never miss white die to mud and gave another tight skim and plan on sanding with 220 sponge paper to try and fix.

Anyone have any other solutions ideas to obtain a flawless finish (If that exists) when there is direct sunlight???


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## Mudrocker (Feb 7, 2021)

Kappa said:


> Certain time of day sunlight shines on wall and shows every imperfections. I did not do original work and was called in to fix. I Gave 2 coats of level 5 on existing painted walls with red cgc compound. Sanded at the end with 150 sponge paper as I've always done with no issues.. After primed you can see air bubbles and lots of scratches from sanding when sun shines on wall.. I have lots of experience with level 5 and never had these issues.
> 
> Added no poke and never miss white die to mud and gave another tight skim and plan on sanding with 220 sponge paper to try and fix.
> 
> Anyone have any other solutions ideas to obtain a flawless finish (If that exists) when there is direct sunlight???


Hi Kappa. 
Sounds like a high exposure area. Always gonna show slightest imperfections. If it were me I’d roll and scrape it like a slick ceiling. Mix mud thin like Stipple mud. Roll it on and wipe it tight. Do the entire wall then sand w 220 or even finer. That should take care of it provided the joints are relatively flat. Use lightweight mud. Hope this helps.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Might be good to avoid ight weght mud which scratches easily.


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## Mudrocker (Feb 7, 2021)

endo_alley said:


> Might be good to avoid ight weght mud which scratches easily.


I wouldn’t steer away from it. Just use the right sandpaper. The scratches already present tells us that lightweight has already been used and one thing that I know (after 30 years) is you don’t want to put all purpose on top of light mud. Always the other way around.


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## 🤡 drywall 🤡 (Feb 12, 2021)

I agree Mudrocker....pull the entire wall with thin mud, lightly sand.... 👍


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## Pinkalink (Mar 19, 2017)

No such thing a perfect drywall, you can get really close but it's almost never worth it.


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## Shelwyn (Apr 10, 2015)

You can get super smooth drywall but you need to charge by the hour if you want it looking that good. Or at least have the reputation to charge big bucks for a really well done job.

I had a billion tell us he wanted his drywall to be as smooth as the paint on his car... now I don't want to rag on our customer he paid very well but the guy has never heard of caulking in his life (joke) everything had to be perfect and they were checking the walls with high lumen 200ft+ tactical flashlights and putting them litteraly on the wall T_T 😢


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

You have to get the walls dead flat first. New drywall should be checked and shimmed flat before taper ever sets foot on the job. Finisher needs to check all joints and corner bead with a straight edge to ensure all is flat and straight. Once all is straight and flat, you must go after the fine finish. Shine down walls with a bright light while finishing and touching up. Sand the bejesus. Mop all dust off with a damp sponge. Then you are ready to spray a pre primer such as us USG Level 5. Brush down the pre primer when dry.


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## Loffredo (Jul 22, 2021)

Did you correct any flaws prior to skimming? Ive had great results with running 150 to smooth it out, clean the corners with a medium sponge, remove lines with a fine sponge then pole sand with 220 both vertically and horizontally. I’d be shocked if your third skim sanded with 220 didn’t look good. You could recommend a high build primer as well. I always recommend high build on level 5.


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## epalacios_317 (Nov 6, 2021)

I agree with the guys above. The finer grit sandpaper the better. I typically wouldn't use anything less then 220 to sand level 5 and I would stay away from the porter cable sanders. Definitely would want to sand by hand and use a halogen light to spot check. 

Additionally, if rolling and pulling tight doesn't satisfy you use a spray on level 5 and high build primer as mentioned above. You should have an immaculate finish when complete.


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## DrywallDan666 (12 mo ago)

Shelwyn said:


> You can get super smooth drywall but you need to charge by the hour if you want it looking that good. Or at least have the reputation to charge big bucks for a really well done job.
> 
> I had a billion tell us he wanted his drywall to be as smooth as the paint on his car... now I don't want to rag on our customer he paid very well but the guy has never heard of caulking in his life (joke) everything had to be perfect and they were checking the walls with high lumen 200ft+ tactical flashlights and putting them litteraly on the wall T_T 😢


Sounds like my current customer.. his "handyman" laid new subfloor with 1/2"-3/4" gaps in the tough and groove for "expansion" (and then proceeded to tile.over that with no uncoupling layer🤷‍♂️) they also only used 8ft sheets so buttjoint city, butchered framing... but i had a couple fisheyes tying into existing and its like the whole job is ruined lol


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