# air bubbles



## 941owassard (Mar 11, 2013)

Hello all. I am painting contractor(hold the boo's please) for 20 something yrs. and have a question for the pro's. What is with all the air bubbles in the mud. I've tried everything I could think of to prevent them to no avail.
Any ideas how to prevent them?


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Welcome! Need to be a little more specific.
Are you getting bubbles in all your mud or just over paint ?
Some kind of paints bubble worse than others, at any rate the bubbles come from trapping air in the mud. Sometimes it works to put the mud on a little heavy and come back to it in a bit and wipe it out. Good luck!:thumbsup:


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

941owassard said:


> Hello all. I am painting contractor(hold the boo's please) for 20 something yrs. and have a question for the pro's. What is with all the air bubbles in the mud. I've tried everything I could think of to prevent them to no avail.
> Any ideas how to prevent them?


you'll always get the bubbles if the water in the mud can't penetrate the surface where it's applied.compound is about 50%water.as your coats get tighter there's also a reduction in the size of the bubbles.a painted surface,cement board,gray board,they all require a no. of coats if you want good results.i'm only guessing that this is the problem you're referring to.


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## Makitaboy (Jun 8, 2013)

New or previously painted are 2 different scenarios.

New, has everything to do with mud consistency for that operation. 

Old, Off-gasing of oil or latex. Mostly, oils are the worst. Lead tends to crackle.
Latex bubble size is usually dependent on age. 70's baby blue has smaller and few bubbles than new house beige. "All-in-one" re-activates depending on how hard it was rolled, and can bubble or peel off like a blister. Multiple coats pulled tight, or a "thick" one as a real aggravater, then pull tight. Try anything you want to reduce it, its a waste of time, sand, prime and touch it up butter cup.


Also, it has everything to do with painters being lazy, and not wanting to fill in the 2 sq inches of minor mistake on a drywallers 99.9% perfect wall.:yes:
Put the spackle in after prime and stop complaining!:furious:


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Theres so many things that cause bubbles it really hard to say what you are asking. I get them mostly when taping over wet mud, previously painted surfaces and when mud isnt mixed properly. Some things to try. Make sure each coat is dry before starting another. Having a knife or trowel with a nice clean edge can help . Also i normally apply in 1 direction then finish in opposite. For painted surfaces I try place mud in desired area wait 15 secs or so then feather edges and pull tight as posible. Next step thin down mudd and repeat.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Bubbles, bubbles. Oh the Troubles.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

A little more info from the OP Would be nice .:yes:


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## 941owassard (Mar 11, 2013)

Ok to clarify.
Bubbles on both new and previously painted surfaces. On NC its usually on the butts and any where you put it on thick. Same with on painted surfaces.
Hate it. Ya get everything perfect and then there is the bubbles causing more work and delaying painting.

I will try and put it on and wait a bit before smoothing. I don't remember this being such a consistant problem way back when. Change in mud formulas?

So annoying


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## Zendik (Sep 14, 2011)

Remember when you used to blow bubbles in the bathtub?










I seen Bubbles the other day, told me to tell you hi...


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## Makitaboy (Jun 8, 2013)

Again.... what delay?

2 swipes, 1 one on, one off. Done. No need to even touch up the primer. 
NO SANDING!
The whole tub, which lasts me 50+ jobs, of constantly going over paint...
costs 7 dollars in canuckville.

I also use it in 3 ways to get them tighter than a pittbull's n**s

I feel if drywallers need 2 different drywalls to hang, 2 or even 3 different compounds to tape, thousands in tools and years of skill.....

Why do painters get to break it down to a roller, brush and 1 single product?


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Makitaboy said:


> Again.... what delay?
> 
> 2 swipes, 1 one on, one off. Done. No need to even touch up the primer.
> NO SANDING!
> ...


 I use the fast n final with primer in it. Why spray when you can simply skimcoat all the walls. No sanding needed. :thumbsup:


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## Zendik (Sep 14, 2011)

Makitaboy said:


> Again.... what delay?
> 
> 2 swipes, 1 one on, one off. Done. No need to even touch up the primer.
> NO SANDING!
> ...


Yeah!
I'd like to see painters lift a ton and a half of sheetrock or push a tube all day then come back and complain.


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## 941owassard (Mar 11, 2013)

I see painters are loved around here. I don't do new construction,rarely work with a GC,Very little commercial work. 
I'm not the "painter that you guys hate".

"These are not the droids your looking for"


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

941owassard said:


> I see painters are loved around here. I don't do new construction,rarely work with a GC,Very little commercial work.
> I'm not the "painter that you guys hate".
> 
> "These are not the droids your looking for"


It is a true fact about tapers.... 

We complain about tapers because they won't fix anything and then when one comes along who wants to know the deep dark secrets of the trade, we treat him like he's trying to put us out of business..... sorry

Oh, and by the way, just wait till 2buck awakens!


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

mld said:


> It is a true fact about tapers.... We complain about tapers because they won't fix anything and then when one comes along who wants to know the deep dark secrets of the trade, we treat him like he's trying to put us out of business..... sorry Oh, and by the way, just wait till 2buck awakens!




Mld you mean painters I don't complain about tapers lol


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## Makitaboy (Jun 8, 2013)

941owassard said:


> I see painters are loved around here. I don't do new construction,rarely work with a GC,Very little commercial work.
> I'm not the "painter that you guys hate".
> 
> "These are not the droids your looking for"


Geez, you think this is bad, you should hear what we say about the framers and trim guys!


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Toontowntaper said:


> Mld you mean painters I don't complain about tapers lol


Oh, so right:thumbsup:


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

941owassard said:


> I see painters are loved around here. I don't do new construction,rarely work with a GC,Very little commercial work.
> I'm not the "painter that you guys hate".
> 
> "These are not the droids your looking for"


And don't try those jedi mind tricks on us painter!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

If your worried about bubbles, just switch to durabond (quickset) and be done with them. When you put the durabond on it will still bubble, but go back when it is set up but not totally rock hard and burnish the bubbles out. Problem solved.....:thumbsup:


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

avoid air bubbles on both painted and new surfaces by using VARIO!!


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

spacklinfool said:


> avoid air bubbles on both painted and new surfaces by using VARIO!!


Wish it was readily available here.Send me a pallet for Christmas.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

mld said:


> Wish it was readily available here.Send me a pallet for Christmas.


I'd be happy to find a bag of dura bond around here!:whistling2:


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

mld said:


> Wish it was readily available here.Send me a pallet for Christmas.


I can have a pallet shipped no problem to your local distributor..send their info and convince them you and others will buy it..no tape ever needed and never a crack!!


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

This is a great question. When I apply Fresco Harmony over a surface it's generally painted. I've gotten bubbles over new drywall as well. Sometimes I get bubbles and sometimes I don't. I'm pouring color into the mud but I'd get bubbles before I started using color as well. It's been nagging at me for years. My only answer is that it's how the mud is mixed. Perhaps if the water is dirty or I'm spinning in a bunch of air. Another consideration wound be brand of mud but I think they all bubble. Also there are times when the bubbles shrink and go away as it dries and times when they don't. Not sure how to prevent them but I'm open to suggestions.


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## Zendik (Sep 14, 2011)

Isn't this why I've seen tapers add a bit of detergent to the mud?


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I remember back in my rookie years. I used to sing "tiny bubbles" all the time. Yes over mixing mud can cause bubbles. I always try and buy a variable speed mixer. You dont need high rpms just a an even mix. The goal being the first scoop should be the same consistancy as the last scoop in bucket. Always start at bottom and work up. I know trim tex sells drill with a timer that is hands free. I would recomend it for the bulk jobs. Anyway if you do over mix and create air just wait 15 minutes then remix at slower rpm. If you are working on prepainted surfaces it sometimes helps to give it a good sanding with 120 grit before coating. Then wipe with paint prep (TSP). The apply light coats of mudd working them with knive strokes in 2 directions while waiting a bit before final wipe. Now the next step is the most important. Its your knives or trowels. Always make sure to have a nice clean edge on them. Avoid cleaning them in water without wiping off with a dry trowel. Always sand your edge of knives or trowels to keep them sharp and free of pitts.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

boco said:


> I remember back in my rookie years. I used to sing "tiny bubbles" all the time. Yes over mixing mud can cause bubbles. I always try and buy a variable speed mixer. You dont need high rpms just a an even mix. The goal being the first scoop should be the same consistancy as the last scoop in bucket. Always start at bottom and work up. I know trim tex sells drill with a timer that is hands free. I would recomend it for the bulk jobs. Anyway if you do over mix and create air just wait 15 minutes then remix at slower rpm. If you are working on prepainted surfaces it sometimes helps to give it a good sanding with 120 grit before coating. Then wipe with paint prep (TSP). The apply light coats of mudd working them with knive strokes in 2 directions while waiting a bit before final wipe. Now the next step is the most important. Its your knives or trowels. Always make sure to have a nice clean edge on them. Avoid cleaning them in water without wiping off with a dry trowel. Always sand your edge of knives or trowels to keep them sharp and free of pitts.


.but the pocs are in the mud no matter how you mix it! A well filed knife helps ...yes! but the pocs are in the mud.no matter how you mix it! NO?


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

moore said:


> .but the pocs are in the mud no matter how you mix it! A well filed knife helps ...yes! but the pocs are in the mud.no matter how you mix it! NO?


Pocs are in the mud, yes!:yes:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Never seen mud bubble over new sheetrock...... My only suggestion is to stop using the lighter muds. Find something heavier that doesn't have much air in it to start. Ruco mud I would bet has almost zero air in it :yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

hubba bubba

mix mud night before and it wonèt bub in morning

add half a cup of glue mud to topping to knock out bubs,

use a very good mixer


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## Toolnut (Aug 17, 2012)

Mixing at to high a speed puts air in the mud and can make it worse. Always used a squirt of detergent seems to help.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

when the mud gets dry ,I spit on my tool and I get bubbles sometimes:whistling2:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Zendik said:


> Isn't this why I've seen tapers add a bit of detergent to the mud?


painter told me the soap changes MUD SO IT FLASHES THROUGGH THE PAINT I seen it happen


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## BPTaper (Jul 31, 2012)

I use dish soap on first coat and it helps.On new jobs where there are poc marks we sweep the walls lightly with a soft broom...knocks all the dust out of the poc marks so the mud adheres better.

You can also pull through your coats a while after to block out the pocs....my 2 cents


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

BPTaper said:


> You can also pull through your coats a while after to block out the pocs....my 2 cents


And you only half to wait a second or two ...Give it another swipe.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Never really tried the soap trick but I do like the Muddmaxx or glue. I have to agree with moore. Just wait a few seconds before wiping . You can also mix bucket then wait 5 minutes and remix at a slow rpm. I also prefer a variable speed drills but clicking the switch on and off fast will keep rpms down. One of these days I am going to buy the TT mixer but not untill my 10 year old Mikita quits. Now for dura bond I like the advance mixer with Mikita or my 18V porter cable


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## 941owassard (Mar 11, 2013)

Well I have been trying to leave it on a little longer and it seems to be helping.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Use Quickset!!! problem solved :yes:. Just mix in some regular mud with your quickset so it is a bit easier to sand. Once the the mud is almost fully set up, just go back over it and burnish all imperfections out. This method is fool proof.


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