# How to support a free standing steel stud wall



## splitshot

Hello all, 

I need to build an 8' high steel stud wall and the problem is I have nothing to fasten the top track or the end of the wall to. Obviously the bottom track I plan on drilling and fastening with smack pins. However I know from experience this will not be sufficient and the top of the wall will still be flimsy. Any ideas of how to stiffen the wall up? I am thinking of some sort of heavy guage iron angle drilled to the floor, or a telepost of some sort.

TIA


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## Mudshark

*Need more information*

Never mind


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## smisner50s

splitshot said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I need to build an 8' high steel stud wall and the problem is I have nothing to fasten the top track or the end of the wall to. Obviously the bottom track I plan on drilling and fastening with smack pins. However I know from experience this will not be sufficient and the top of the wall will still be flimsy. Any ideas of how to stiffen the wall up? I am thinking of some sort of heavy guage iron angle drilled to the floor, or a telepost of some sort.
> 
> TIA


 First use 20 gauge steel studs Use a 2 by 2 by 12 inch pattern on the outer edges of your track You're going to need pan head framing screws for your studs to pan head framing screws on each side of the studs top and bottom and make sure the studs are cut snuggly to fit not lose run the drywall all the way to the ground.... if you can get 18 gauge steel studs that would work better.. if you follow the steps the wall will turn out good... you can also glue your track down before you shoot it down


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## boco

An easy way to stiffin up the wall is to use a heavy gauge stud and track. Next step is to tie them in with flat iron and clips. Talk to your supplier they will get you what you need. 5/8 sheetrock also helps.


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## Mudshark

smisner50s said:


> you can also glue your track down before you shoot it down


Never heard of glueing the track down first before. Whats the purpose of that?


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## boco

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe its a cheap high?


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## splitshot

Thanks all for the tips...I really would like to use some sort of an iron post drilled and bolted to the floor however. Just not sure where/how to purchase/install them. One idea someone gave me is to construct a vertical box beam at the end of the wall, drill a hole into the concrete and install a piece of rebar down the center and fill with concrete. Sounds pretty labour intensive but I think so far it's the best solution.


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## smisner50s

Mudshark said:


> Never heard of glueing the track down first before. Whats the purpose of that?


 if you glue down the bottom piece of track once it sets up .it will take all the rocking motion out ....the strength of the wall starts at the bottom and goes up...so if you shoot it down in the center once the studs are in on a free standing wall it will rock back and forth on that center shot as fulcom point ..but if you glue and shoot down the track on the outer edges it no longer has that axes to rock on ...now this is not needed on partion walls ...but light gauge steel stud framing that has no attachment point on the top plate this will def help out


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## harvey randall

*free stand wall*

drill down and use epoxy resin, use steal for the up rites- other wise pour 3 ft deep, and go off that. othwerwise its not.


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## SlimPickins

Fasten some invisible braces to the ceiling, but make sure they're at 45 degrees.


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Fasten some invisible braces to the ceiling, but make sure they're at 45 degrees.


Invisible braces

have you been eating marshmallows again:blink:


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## Mudshark

SlimPickins said:


> Fasten some invisible braces to the ceiling, but make sure they're at 45 degrees.


Yeah I wonder about you Slim. The invisible brace idea seems a bit shakey.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Invisible braces
> 
> have you been eating marshmallows again:blink:






Mudshark said:


> Yeah I wonder about you Slim. The invisible brace idea seems a bit shakey.


You guys don't have invisible braces up there in Canadia-land? You should definitely try and get some, they're indispensable. I use them everywhere. I also have a bunch of invisible lumber in my truck, for those hack-whack jobs that need a lot of framing fixes. :blink:


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## mudman46

I WOULD SURELY DRILL DOWN 3 FT SUPPORT WITH STEEL BRACES
THE SHOOT BOTTOM 
FREE STANDING WALLS ARE A PAIN IS THERE CABINETS AGAINST THE WALL
THAT WILL HELP AND HEAVY GAGE STEEL WITH 5/8 
AND IF YOU CAN SEE THEM INVISIBLE BRACES ATTACH THEM ON EACH END


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## SlimPickins

mudman46 said:


> AND IF YOU CAN SEE THEM INVISIBLE BRACES ATTACH THEM ON EACH END


That's the trick with them, isn't it? I have a big box full of chalk-dust, and I keep my invisible stuff in there. After it's installed I just wash it off with invisible water. :blink:





:laughing:


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## chris

Ive seen our framer use wooden fence posts on both ends


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## ttrent

splitshot said:


> Thanks all for the tips...I really would like to use some sort of an iron post drilled and bolted to the floor however. Just not sure where/how to purchase/install them. One idea someone gave me is to construct a vertical box beam at the end of the wall, drill a hole into the concrete and install a piece of rebar down the center and fill with concrete. Sounds pretty labour intensive but I think so far it's the best solution.


 HAVE YOUR WELDER MAKE 4 TO 5 FOOT EL BRACES OUT OF 1/4 INCH X 3-1/2 INCH ANGLE IRON AND USE 1/2 INCH EXPANSION BOLTS INTO CONCRETE EVERY 5 FEET . uSE DEEP LEG BOTTOM TRACK AND HORIZONTAL 1/2 INCH PLYWOOD UNDER ROCK WALL BE STIFFEN QUITE NICELY


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## drywall paul

splitshot
Sounds like maybe you have a lot of money and you bought a drywall company. have you heard of a term"stanchions"? now you do..ask your drywall suppliers...btw, there are height limits you can use stanchions,,,ask an engineer
goodluck


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## grid ninja

*loose wall*

you can buy low wall post at your local dry wall supply, drill and anchor. and stiff clips. when you rock it set rock tight on floor and push wall over and screw, thin same on back side, it will help stiffen wall, no glue needed :thumbsup:


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## joepro0000

go to steel manufactor and have them make you some tube steels with some plates and holes for redheads. Anchor in the tube steels and your good.

Another method that works well is buy the fence post (metal) install bottom plate, will stick out 1/2" but drywall will cover it. Twist into place, and screw a stud onto the post and your good.

Use 18 gauge top/bottem tracks, 20 ga. studs. Put some studs noched out on a 45 screwing all studs in the wall.


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## endo_alley

In a commercial application where there is concrete on a steel pan, I will hole saw into the bottom track and concrete , and set a piece of unistrut vertically. I mortar it into the hole to set it stiff and bolt a wall stud to the Unistrut. If you don't want to go to that trouble, use #18 deep leg track for the bottom track.


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## MrWillys

We make low wall posts by welding a rectangular tube steel to a flat plate and anchor bolting it to the concrete. I did a job one time where the structural engineer made us bore a 12" hole 5' deep with a rebar cage, steel post, and concrete. This is when I lost respect for engineers.


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## nodnarb

Kinda late but surprised no one said LAY the sheets down and glue em. Here we have premade posts for around $50 for 5'. They come with lead anchors. Glue the track. But the board tight to the floor. Use 18ga or better. 20 will work on smaller walls. High leg track is ideal. Its a lot less labor intensive this way.


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## scottktmrider

I believe everything has been mentioned but I'll put my. 02c in. use 18-16 guage studs or at least heavy gauge track, that is glued down with pins or tapcons 2 at where stud is put a metal post in, black iron with stud clips,lay drywall down with glue, .and if you can lay a heavy gauge stud flat on top of the top track, if you can't get a stiff wall out of all that something is wrong.


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## endo_alley

scottktmrider said:


> I believe everything has been mentioned but I'll put my. 02c in. use 18-16 guage studs or at least heavy gauge track, that is glued down with pins or tapcons 2 at where stud is put a metal post in, black iron with stud clips,lay drywall down with glue, .and if you can lay a heavy gauge stud flat on top of the top track, if you can't get a stiff wall out of all that something is wrong.


Still, this is no stronger than the bottom plate glue. Better to anchor a post or two into the concrete.


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## RPB

Mudshark said:


> Never heard of glueing the track down first before. Whats the purpose of that?


Primary purpose is to seal the bottom track and prevent water, air, pests, etc. getting inside the room from under the walls. Caulking also helps keep your track in place while securing it to the deck/floor.


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