# Bullnose Question



## inflexion (Feb 28, 2011)

Hello, Im currently working on this house and there is this one corner that is puzzling me, I dont believe there is a trim text piece to fit this corner. How do I go about meeting the three ends up cleanly?( Pillar90 to 45 to horizontal90 ) any help is much appreciated.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

your going to half to free hand it in. Do your nineties 1st, your going to half to pull them out a bit to get the 45 one to line up. Cut the 45 one like this shape"U" to tie into it.
Also use vinyl bead, it's better to trim and cut etc....on crazy things like arches etc, anything that needs attention to detail I use mud to install it, not the glue.
you could also go with 90 bead on all your horizontals, and just use bull nose on the up rights, it has a ok look if the GC would go for it. Thats a better method if the ceilings are sprayed


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## inflexion (Feb 28, 2011)

Ok thanks!!! Im using paper bead thats what the GC wants, Do I tie the horizontal onto the pillar? and then the 45? Should the 45 overlap them or just meet up?


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## drywallnflorida (Sep 19, 2008)

(using metal bead) I would try taking the 90 all the way to the ceiling and make a cut at the soffit so you can open it up to a 45 from that point to the ceiling, then tie the horizontal into it, I would use a metal bead so its a little more ridged and can be nailed on where is needed to keep it strait. If the GC has to have paper tell them to get you the required T needed to make it work. Your gonna have to do a little shaping with mud to the 3 way meeting point!!


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

inflexion said:


> Ok thanks!!! Im using paper bead thats what the GC wants, Do I tie the horizontal onto the pillar? and then the 45? Should the 45 overlap them or just meet up?


Take 3 small pieces cut and cope to whatever looks best. I would do 90 first then kill 45 into 90 as 2buck suggested. Trial and error with scrap pieces might save some material.


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## inflexion (Feb 28, 2011)

thanks fellas!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

inflexion said:


> Ok thanks!!! Im using paper bead thats what the GC wants, Do I tie the horizontal onto the pillar? and then the 45? Should the 45 overlap them or just meet up?


yes, they should just meet, don't over lap. and do what cd said too, use scrapes for samples, before you do your final cut. it's a trial and error thing


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I was thinking to do the 90's first too, and then you can kill the 45 shy of the 90's and free-ball it once you've got the first coats done up.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

Trim -tex makes corner pieces,outside 90's,3 way 90's inside 90's,inside 45's,3 way 45's & so on.They make just about everything you can think of.
I have some outside 90's if you need a few in a hurry.
The corners come out nicer with the adapters & won't crack..I gave up doing them freehand yrs ago.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> Trim -tex makes corner pieces,outside 90's,3 way 90's inside 90's,inside 45's,3 way 45's & so on.They make just about everything you can think of.
> I have some outside 90's if you need a few in a hurry.
> The corners come out nicer with the adapters & won't crack..I gave up doing them freehand yrs ago.


I've never seen a 3-way in the configuration he's showing in the picture.

Speaking of free-balling it, I watched some guys freehand *all* the bullnose (that's right, they didn't use any bead) in a house a few years back. I'd love to hand them a compliment and say they made it look flawless.........but I can't:mellow:


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## inflexion (Feb 28, 2011)

Yippie! All doneso's thanks everybody for the input, I was stressing hard bout this last night but worked like a charm, took some bloody time but worked!


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## inflexion (Feb 28, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> I've never seen a 3-way in the configuration he's showing in the picture.
> 
> Speaking of free-balling it, I watched some guys freehand *all* the bullnose (that's right, they didn't use any bead) in a house a few years back. I'd love to hand them a compliment and say they made it look flawless.........but I can't:mellow:


Also, how so? just straight mud and rubber knife????? insannneeeeoidd!!


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

inflexion said:


> Yippie! All doneso's thanks everybody for the input, I was stressing hard bout this last night but worked like a charm, took some bloody time but worked!


 Good job ! Might take time and ingenuity but anything is doable.:thumbsup:


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> yes, they should just meet, don't over lap. and do what cd said too, use scrapes for samples, before you do your final cut. it's a trial and error thing


I like to keep those scrap templates for future use. Makes things a little easier.:yes:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

inflexion said:


> Also, how so? just straight mud and rubber knife????? insannneeeeoidd!!


Nice work on the transition....it'll fly for sure:thumbsup:

And yeah, they taped the outside corner and then used a bullnose clean-off tool. It looked like a snake that ate a few tennis balls:laughing:


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## inflexion (Feb 28, 2011)

thanks

I saved my scrap pieces and they did help me quite a bit!!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> Trim -tex makes corner pieces,outside 90's,3 way 90's inside 90's,inside 45's,3 way 45's & so on.They make just about everything you can think of.
> I have some outside 90's if you need a few in a hurry.
> The corners come out nicer with the adapters & won't crack..I gave up doing them freehand yrs ago.


they would have no such transition for that type of junction, Nor do I see any one use the transitions that much, just the 3 way ones, thats about it. They sell a simple $2.00 miter at all drywall supply stores http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/i...-BULLNOSE-3-4/_/N-1z141xt/Ne-ntc74/R-I1018381 
it's way faster to miter, and you have no transition lines to deal with, so there is no need to free hand. You can also make a miter out of scrap pieces bullnose too, when in a pinch


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## Pitz (Mar 28, 2012)

hey guys, first post here.

I am doing this decorative walk-out basement and the gc wants all bullnose which isnt too bad other than the 3 level bulkhead that some artsy interior decorator thought was attractive. Ive done a good chunk of bullnose but ive never seen inside and outside 22.5's. I assume you do the same as a 45 but a different angle. Any pointers?

Also do you run your bead over the other one or butt them. I butt them and just touch them up with some taping mud when i embed. Any problems with what im doing?

Thanks


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Pitz said:


> hey guys, first post here.
> 
> I am doing this decorative walk-out basement and the gc wants all bullnose which isnt too bad other than the 3 level bulkhead that some artsy interior decorator thought was attractive. Ive done a good chunk of bullnose but ive never seen inside and outside 22.5's. I assume you do the same as a 45 but a different angle. Any pointers?
> 
> ...


not sure which bead your talking of, but trim-tex makes a small 2 buck miter for most of their vinyl beads. yes butt beads together, but sometimes you can put a scrap 2 to 3 inch bead under the joints, but give it a good eye if you do that. Lines them up nice if you can do that, if not,,,,staple


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## Tony Plain (Mar 2, 2012)

Trim Tex sells a yellow mitre marker that makes it easy.


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> I've never seen a 3-way in the configuration he's showing in the picture.
> 
> Speaking of free-balling it, I watched some guys freehand *all* the bullnose (that's right, they didn't use any bead) in a house a few years back. I'd love to hand them a compliment and say they made it look flawless.........but I can't:mellow:


 i've had to do this a couple of times ,bullnose arches on fireplaces,worked really well.i used bullflex as my mold.meshed corner with 90,next day reloaded corner with 90,covered corner with ceranwrap, molded corner with the bullnose flex,it gave me a perfect copy.no freehanding for me .


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)




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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)




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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

b said:


> i've had to do this a couple of times ,bullnose arches on fireplaces,worked really well.i used bullflex as my mold.meshed corner with 90,next day reloaded corner with 90,covered corner with ceranwrap, molded corner with the bullnose flex,it gave me a perfect copy.no freehanding for me .


May I ask why you didn't just use bull arch bead (or am I missing something?)? 

I've faked little bits of bullnose here and there but never an arch.

And.....for some reason your photos didn't pop up until after I had posted. Very nice work.


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

the specs for this fireplace dos'nt allow any combustional products within the arch perimeter.the underside of the arch is cement board.i've used this method on two fireplaces without any issues yet,good thing because they;re both neighbors.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

b said:


> the specs for this fireplace dos'nt allow any combustional products within the arch perimeter.the underside of the arch is cement board.i've used this method on two fireplaces without any issues yet,good thing because they;re both neighbors.


I see now. Great solution. You strike me as a true craftsman, a master of your trade.


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

thanks for the remark Slim. keeps things interesting to try new things with these products.


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## igorson (Nov 10, 2010)

is that drywall or wood work? If it is bullnose and drywall it is awesome.
http://1drywall.com/services.html


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

it's steel stud and drywall,paper bull,paper half bead,the surface is sanded swirls in drywall mud that you can't see in photo.


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