# taping compound with mesh tape



## josh6106 (Nov 5, 2008)

hey guys, just reading an old post on here where someone said only to use setting compound with mesh tape. where i'm from, know one owns automatic tools, so everyone uses mesh tape, hawk and trowel. i haven't bought a taper yet, but i own everything else. so my method when i'm doing a large residential, i use mesh on butts and seams, i use setting compound on my butts, by hand for my first coat, and taping compound on my seams,with my box. just started doing this about 6 months ago, and wanted to make sure i won't have any call backs in the future about hairline cracks. what made me ask this was that i had a hairline crack on a small job on two butts i did last year, that i looked at the other day, it was done with mesh and a 90 setting compound. thanks guys


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

the ONLY time i use mesh tape is on small jobs and i only use it on taper ends with u.s.g. 90min. compound. i use paper tape and 90 min. compound on corners and but seams.


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

ya paper tape is stronger then me:thumbup:sh tape so one should use it on butts always this is the right thing to do


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

The only time I like to see mesh is in my competition's houses. :yes:

The only other scenario I can find myself using it in, is if me and my friends are having a game of "Who can throw the most mesh tape in the garbage!"
I love that game! :jester:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

So nobody has auto tools, but you have a box? I would just use paper tape if you don't want call backs. What are you doing in the angles anyway?


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> The only time I like to see mesh is in my competition's houses
> 
> The only other scenario I can find myself using it in, is if me and my friends are having a game of "Who can throw the most mesh tape in the garbage!"
> I love that game!


Ha Ha Pt!
U should of seen the job i did this last week!!!
Timescale was get it done now or he goes bust and maybe me with him! 
Well i was chasing the boarders about the house,got the upstairs paper taped:thumbsup:Then downstairs we were up there f*ckin arses 2 get this done so we papered the buts with fastset and MESHED the rest!!! Its lookin sweet and i hope i get payed! If no well sorry for him!!Its only7 big 1's he is o me now!!


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

VANMAN said:


> Ha Ha Pt!
> U should of seen the job i did this last week!!!
> Timescale was get it done now or he goes bust and maybe me with him!
> Well i was chasing the boarders about the house,got the upstairs paper taped:thumbsup:Then downstairs we were up there f*ckin arses 2 get this done so we papered the buts with fastset and MESHED the rest!!! Its lookin sweet and i hope i get payed! If no well sorry for him!!Its only7 big 1's he is o me now!!


It was his company Xmas dinner today
I couldn't go as maybe had 2 take my pissed of head out on him infront of all his workers!! Been good for me but not so good £7000 down
But it will come if i am not payed!!!
It sounds bad but this guy pleaded with me! I do all his work but he only pays when he needs another done! (as a fool i do it) So now on he has 2 months 2 pay or well it will b a £7000 fine i'm lookin at!
Rant over keep it lit!!!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Who the hell is reviving mesh/paper discussions from two years ago?

I'll tell you who......someone looking to stir up the bizness :yes:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

don't get me started :boxing:


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

mesh means cracks,cracks means coll backs.i do use it but only as a filter for my apla teck pump


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

i use both methods. Mesh for condos. Paper for custom homes. After 60 condos no call backs yet. Though when i use mesh its just on the seams only. Then if its not a perfect seam then i go paper. Butts and angles go paper. No worries. The main things that are a must with mesh is that seam must not have any gap and durabond must be used. If there is a gap it must be prefilled or paper needs to be applied. Also mesh can be applied the same as paper tape. Apply mud and then embed it with a knife. There really should not be a mesh paper war both methods work when applied professionally.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

boco said:


> There really should not be a mesh paper war both methods work when applied professionally.


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

boco said:


> i use both methods. Mesh for condos. Paper for custom homes. After 60 condos no call backs yet. Though when i use mesh its just on the seams only. Then if its not a perfect seam then i go paper. Butts and angles go paper. No worries. The main things that are a must with mesh is that seam must not have any gap and durabond must be used. If there is a gap it must be prefilled or paper needs to be applied. Also mesh can be applied the same as paper tape. Apply mud and then embed it with a knife. There really should not be a mesh paper war both methods work when applied professionally.


same work here :thumbsup:


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

Mesh does work good if you know what your doing,and coming back to fix cracks only takes a little while.best thing to do is DON,T LOOK BACK!,Rape and run,Blame it on the framing.I always say" you can,t see it from my house".Is that profesional enouph? ho ho ho merry Chistmas


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

alltex said:


> Mesh does work good if you know what your doing,and coming back to fix cracks only takes a little while.best thing to do is DON,T LOOK BACK!,Rape and run,Blame it on the framing.I always say" you can,t see it from my house".Is that profesional enouph? ho ho ho merry Chistmas


 What a ****. I use a system that is faster and flatter but ya i am the hack. Like i said on a 2 year project and 60 condos later no call backs . They get started on Monday and primed on Thursday. What would your **** look like if you were turning over units at this rate and were using paper? So far mine has lasted, no call backs and theres still another 60 to go. As for my custom homes I did have 2 call backs both the same thing cracking in a few angles and 3 butts cracked all above electric heat registers. I dont like call backs but they do happen when you guarantee you work for 1 year. Then on the modular homes side 0 call backs on the 7 or 8 i did. :thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

boco said:


> What a ****. I use a system that is faster and flatter but ya i am the hack. Like i said on a 2 year project and 60 condos later no call backs . They get started on Monday and primed on Thursday. What would your **** look like if you were turning over units at this rate and were using paper? So far mine has lasted, no call backs and theres still another 60 to go. As for my custom homes I did have 2 call backs both the same thing cracking in a few angles and 3 butts cracked all above electric heat registers. I dont like call backs but they do happen when you guarantee you work for 1 year. Then on the modular homes side 0 call backs on the 7 or 8 i did. :thumbsup:


Don't give in to the temptation to have a battle of wits with the unarmed boco......

If your method works, work it. I've tried to force my joints to crack.....I broke the sheetrock first.:thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

*Fibafuse*...........Then everybody happy


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

boco said:


> What a ****. I use a system that is faster and flatter but ya i am the hack. Like i said on a 2 year project and 60 condos later no call backs . They get started on Monday and primed on Thursday. What would your **** look like if you were turning over units at this rate and were using paper? So far mine has lasted, no call backs and theres still another 60 to go. As for my custom homes I did have 2 call backs both the same thing cracking in a few angles and 3 butts cracked all above electric heat registers. I dont like call backs but they do happen when you guarantee you work for 1 year. Then on the modular homes side 0 call backs on the 7 or 8 i did. :thumbsup:


 Mesh and 3 coats? Or are the units texture? I do a 4 day finish schedule for smooth, 3 for texture, unless hotmuding then we can knock off a day. I'm always leary of meshing on wood framing, but steel stud theres no reason not to :thumbsup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

boco said:


> i use durabond



Not for drywall use!:furious:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> *Fibafuse*...........Then everybody happy


That stuff works too.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I think part of the cracking is becouse of lite weight and easy sand hot mud.We used to only have the kind of hot mud that you could not sand,and i used lots of it .but now every time i use mesh i use the easy sand types and maybe thats why it cracks.I remember tape,double and finishing a 100 sheeter one day,crank the heat. come back the next day ,sand touch up ,glase angle,.Then the sprayer sprayed


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Not for drywall use!:furious:


 Plaster only?.

I will expect a short smart ass comment ..


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

So what is durabond good for then? If not drywall?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

boco said:


> i use both methods. Mesh for condos. Paper for custom homes. After 60 condos no call backs yet. Though when i use mesh its just on the seams only. Then if its not a perfect seam then i go paper. Butts and angles go paper. No worries. The main things that are a must with mesh is that seam must not have any gap and durabond must be used. If there is a gap it must be prefilled or paper needs to be applied. Also mesh can be applied the same as paper tape. Apply mud and then embed it with a knife. There really should not be a mesh paper war both methods work when applied professionally.


 So.. mesh is Commercially acceptable?
But.... not worthy for High end homes? 

What board do you use ??? Ya know ...the one with the perfect bevel!!!:blink: N/G? [NO] USG? [NO] Temple? [NO] Certainteed ! [HELL NO] Eagle rock? [NO] Which board do you use that will not leave a sliver gap no matter how tight I hang em???


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

moore said:


> So.. mesh is Commercially acceptable?
> But.... not worthy for High end homes?
> 
> What board do you use ??? Ya know ...the one with the perfect bevel!!!:blink: N/G? [NO] USG? [NO] Temple? [NO] Certainteed ! [HELL NO] Eagle rock? [NO] Which board do you use that will not leave a sliver gap no matter how tight I hang em???


Personally, I like a gap. I want my mud (when using mesh) to fully surround the tape, front and back....one coat, one solid monolithic coat. After that, everything is decoration:thumbsup:


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Well on my current project its sound proofed with metal high hat and clips just on dividing walls and all ceilings and arealso double layer 5/8s. These units are around 5k worth of rock. Some we have been using all usg lightweight for walls and usg reg for 5?8s. Though last 2 units we used GP lieght weight 5/8s and 1/2. the usg is good but the GP has better cutting properties and tapes like a dream. Plus its cheaper and all lightweight.


day 1 8 to 10 hours

Tape with paper all butts. Only 3 full ones per unit then eight 10 inch butts in the 2 trey ceilings. should take only a few minutes.

Apply mesh to all seams then immediately coat with durabond 90. 
Takes about 3 hours 

Next mix a cupfull of durabond 90 to a pail of usg green lid. thin to liking then get out corner roller and proceed to apply paper tape to all angles. Takes around 3 hours but Ido all top angles without crown by hand or not using corner roller. ie bathroom and Kitchen. 2 hours

Next come 20 stick of trimtex Mostly 350 bull but lately some 3/4 l and 350 step a bull. Takes around 3 hours to install and coat. I use level and laser for benchmarks. For joint compound with usg green with mudmax. 

Last step is the screws. For this i use usg blue or lafarge rapid coat straight out the bucket unmixed for first coat. Takes around an hour. 
Go home
Day 2
Second coat all butts usg green.
Pull 1 side of angles usg green.
Second coat all bead and screws. Usg blue or rapid coat
Most important step prep all seams for finish coat. Using a 6" Knife I try eliminate all stop and gos, air bubbles. scratches and defects. 

Day 3 Finish coat all seams
Finish all angles
finish all screws  
Finish coat all butts.
touch up bead 

Day 4 Sand for 4 hours 
Hog it out mask then spray and backroll primer . 4 hours.
Go home and come back at nite to finish coat all ceilings. 

Day 5 Walls get finish paint with satin. I dont do this part of project. 


Thers really no time for touch ups on last day so if there are any i would try and hit them before sanding. Also on this project theres in floor heat on most units which can be a real problem with delayed shrinking. To prevent this i have to crack a few windows and leave them open day and nite. That along with 2 commercial fans and a dehumidifier. I am constantly moving fans throughout the day and also have 2 electrics on hand for any rooms them seem to be lagging. Because i use durabond for my seams it also helps with dry time. On my angle I also use a 4'. Once again less mud less drytime needed. From start to prime and finish paint ceilings with 1 man its 35 to 40 hours. i never really do the paint prep or applying mesh coating screws or trim tex so my work week is pretty gravy. i have plenty of time to hit a few small jobs , do payroll roll and line up more work. Before mesh my life was hell. Now that i have been using it and testing it out for almost 3years . My seams have never been flatter and my ceilings are great in any lighting conditions.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mountain Man said:


> So what is durabond good for then? If not drywall?


I remember duradond was the only thing you could get:blink:, then a long came sheetrock. Most guys switched to sheetrock b/c it was more sandable,,,, well at least compared to Durabond it would sand out:yes:... sorta:blink:..... it was more friendly to use:thumbup:............. kind of:blink:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I remember duradond was the only thing you could get:blink:, then a long came sheetrock. Most guys switched to sheetrock b/c it was more sandable,,,, well at least compared to Durabond it would sand out:yes:... sorta:blink:..... it was more friendly to use:thumbup:............. kind of:blink:


you make me feel old!!!


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Moore I dont use mesh on custom homes at my builders request. i still sneak it in the closets and rooms without butts. As for a pefect seam or one not perfect i think we all know what i am talking about. yes theres a slight gap but not a freaking canyon. I think we all can agree we know what a good seam or bad seam looks like. Like i said before if its not near perfect looking it gets paper. Then again on my custom homes i dont turn them over for 10 to 12 days minimum. Theres just too many variables in custom homes like moisture in basement, wet lumber, and truss lift. Every time i have rushed them i just get bit in the ass. Give it the 2 weeks and and the taping will look good for many years to come. Dont give it the 2 weeks be preparred for delayed shrinkage in joints , popped screws and small cracks in ceiling angles. My motto for custom homes is to try and let each coat dry a minimum of 2 days before recoating. All seams and butts get 4 coats, all bead gets 3. All 3- way points get touch up. All walls that recieve direct sunlight get a level 5. All No coat is hit with a six on inside angles then skimmed out with a 10 or 12. All screws get a full 6' knive from seam to wall angle , seam to seam or seam to base board. Just alot more mud used and lots of working with 1000 watt lights and sanding with 300w. The whole process is much more detailed as well as double the price. Your best bet is to get in there get sheetrock aclimated to a controlled envirnment and get the moisture out. For this my friends it takes about 2 weeks.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

hey Boco...NO power...Even in 4 wheel low I started sliding down the hill..I had to park it on the terd next door... When I left this evening I had to stop by the car wash to spray my boots off so I could walk in the store for a 6 pack..[ They wonder why I drink]


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Got that same heater along with like 3-4 others :yes:. thing will heat up a house in no time.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Mountain Man said:


> So what is durabond good for then? If not drywall?



Not a first choice for drywall finishing as far as I'm concerned 

DURABOND® can be used to fill, smooth, and finish interior concrete ceilings and above-grade concrete. 

that's about it


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

That's what I thought, it is some pretty gnarly stuff!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I have noticed that mesh tape works REALLY well on a trailor roof that needs some of that black "roof cement" to patch a leak.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I have noticed that mesh tape works REALLY well on a trailor roof that needs some of that black "roof cement" to patch a leak.


Is this how you're making your money these days? Fixing all your neighbors' roofs? :jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> Is this how you're making your money these days? Fixing all your neighbors' roofs? :jester:


 Well, I went to fix a job, somone had screwed up. They pointed to a roll of mesh tape the "other" guys had left. 

I HAD to find SOMETHING it was good for!!!!!!!!!


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I think most will agree,when we use glas tape,we use hot mud,and we DON,T LOOK BACK!.at least I don,t .if they hurry me I fall for it every time and go as fast as I can .Less time = more $.There I said it and I,m not ashamed .


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

alltex said:


> I think most will agree,when we use glas tape,we use hot mud,and we DON,T LOOK BACK!.at least I don,t .if they hurry me I fall for it every time and go as fast as I can .Less time = more $.There I said it and I,m not ashamed .


 And then.. a year later..more time and less $


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

moore said:


> hey Boco...NO power...Even in 4 wheel low I started sliding down the hill..I had to park it on the terd next door... When I left this evening I had to stop by the car wash to spray my boots off so I could walk in the store for a 6 pack..[ They wonder why I drink]


 OMG Thats alot of muck. Here the ground is just geting frozen. It was a high of 20 today. Cold weather is just getting here. That and foot of snow is on the way. Good thing I got a new carhart hoodie for X-mas.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Well, I went to fix a job, somone had screwed up. They pointed to a roll of mesh tape the "other" guys had left.
> 
> I HAD to find SOMETHING it was good for!!!!!!!!!


:laughing:

You can mail all that stuff to me....I *know* how to use it:thumbsup:


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## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

moore said:


> hey Boco...NO power...Even in 4 wheel low I started sliding down the hill..I had to park it on the terd next door... When I left this evening I had to stop by the car wash to spray my boots off so I could walk in the store for a 6 pack..[ They wonder why I drink]


 oh clay, what else is there to say.


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## Timpowers604 (Sep 18, 2010)

If you use mesh the old boys will insist you must use the original fast set green bag. We cheat and fill flats and butts with a very tight coat of confill and load right over top. But generally never use fibre tape. If you do though look for the yellow roll way stronger way stickier.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i've been using hamilton quickset on my mesh jobs. way better than cgc or proroc. it doesn't delaminate the same way over paint. are you saying you just prefill with confill and then don't tape at all? just load right over top? that certainly would be a cheat. a risky one at that.


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