# Patching



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I know all of us have to do patching some more then others. 

Whats you patching routine. 

How long does it usually take you.

what about texture matching.

Im curious and I figure others maybe too


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Scrap pieces of drywall ,steel and wood studs Usually if in hurry will use 5 min. mud once ,hen top it out. With the 5 min mud you can buff out patch to a super smooth finish as it sets. Tight pull of toppin and let dry. We like to sand edges reeeeal good, then wet sponge edge also. Matching textures just takes a lil practice


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Patching routine? lol.
Goes like this.
*alarm sounds*
Wake up out of bed groaning "F!ck my life...."
Stumble over to the coffee machine and make a coffee.
My coffee then drives me to work while I sleep in the passenger side.
Get to work, and then start patching.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I do a lot of patching.

I was just commenting the other day that there's no set routine, it's more of an improvisational dance. How big is it, what's the substrate, how much masking, which set mud do I use, etc? I'll tell you this.....I show up prepared, and have everything I could possibly need for any situation. Most of my jobs are between 1/10th of a sheet and maybe ten 8 ft'ers.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Patching routine? lol.
> Goes like this.
> *alarm sounds*
> Wake up out of bed groaning "F!ck my life...."
> ...


 Ouch " F my life" cmon patches arnt that bad. You got it going on man:thumbsup: As you mature , patches will become less dificult my young grasshopper:whistling2: Just pokin fun


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I had a slight problem the other day i did a 16 x 14 patch and i used regular mud and paper tape. Got one coat of light weight on it came back the next because i was doing other work there too. put a 2nd coat and 3 rd with 20 min mud. I cam back to sand it and there were a couple of bubbles right where the tape was. 

Im not sure what caused it any ideas?


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

A smooth finish said:


> I had a slight problem the other day i did a 16 x 14 patch and i used regular mud and paper tape. Got one coat of light weight on it came back the next because i was doing other work there too. put a 2nd coat and 3 rd with 20 min mud. I cam back to sand it and there were a couple of bubbles right where the tape was.
> 
> Im not sure what caused it any ideas?


 Sounds kinda backwards to me:blink: I would use the hotmuds first,it probably would have taken care of the blister, then topout with lite mud. Was it dry before your 1rst coat of LW?


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I think so. I was told that you use regular mud for taping because it has more glue in it then hot mud.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Taping mud for taping works better. Taping patches with hotmud is just fine . I wouldnt want to tape a house with it but patches its ok.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

chris said:


> Scrap pieces of drywall ,steel and wood studs Usually if in hurry will use 5 min. mud once ,hen top it out. With the 5 min mud you can buff out patch to a super smooth finish as it sets. Tight pull of toppin and let dry. We like to sand edges reeeeal good, then wet sponge edge also. Matching textures just takes a lil practice


You and I are on the exact same page. I can do say a 24"x24" patch in 20 mins easily. I use 5 minute mud and fibafuse. I don't even worry about busting out the patch too much. Put one coat on fairly heavy and then right before it sets I can re-work the mud and pull it slick. Then I put a solid skim of regular mud over the patch and it turns out like glass after I sand.:thumbsup:


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

FOr a patch i prefill with durabond 45, crush up some drywall dust in your mix to speed up drying, it should seize in 5 min. Tape wih durabond 45. Coat with sheetrock 45, put a nice skim with mud. Thats what works for me. The best advice i can give you if your doing fast drying coats make your work smooth as possible to eliminate bubbles. Make your first coat look like your finish coat!


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

chris said:


> Ouch " F my life" cmon patches arnt that bad. You got it going on man:thumbsup: As you mature , patches will become less dificult my young grasshopper:whistling2: Just pokin fun


Oh no no, you misunderstand my friend.
I don't say that because i'm doing patch work that day.
I say that every day because I do drywalling & taping for a living :laughing:
Hehe, I was just kidding too.
I actually don't mind patch work at all. I kind of enjoy it.
It changes up the regular routine of easy go homes. And I pretty well just charge whatever I feel like. lol. There's no set price or square footage price for patch work. I just ball park it.

You should see the two jobs I'm on now :blink:
My guys just finished boarding the one today and the other starts on monday. I'll have to take video for you guys. It's hacked! lol. 
So much patch work...yuck..


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

A smooth finish said:


> I had a slight problem the other day i did a 16 x 14 patch and i used regular mud and paper tape. Got one coat of light weight on it came back the next because i was doing other work there too. put a 2nd coat and 3 rd with 20 min mud. I cam back to sand it and there were a couple of bubbles right where the tape was.
> 
> Im not sure what caused it any ideas?


Sounds like there was a gap in the drywall patch.

Just do what the lads are saying on here, go with the hot mud first.

We mostly do houses all the time. If for some reason, there is some patch work, and lets call it bad patch work. ex... drywall is not tight or there's gaps, we only pre- fill it. Then tape and coat it the next day. If you pre-fill, tape then coat all in the same day, what your describing will happen.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

DLSdrywall said:


> FOr a patch i prefill with durabond 45, crush up some drywall dust in your mix to speed up drying, it should seize in 5 min. Tape wih durabond 45. Coat with sheetrock 45, put a nice skim with mud. Thats what works for me. The best advice i can give you if your doing fast drying coats make your work smooth as possible to eliminate bubbles. Make your first coat look like your finish coat!





For a guy from Ontario (Onterrible), you seem to know what you are doing.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

And the rest of us don't!?


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

PrecisionTaping said:


> And the rest of us don't!?


No of course you do. I did notice on one of your videos though that you didnt have the bead all the way up to the ceiling! We are very critical here at DWT arent we?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> No of course you do. I did notice on one of your videos though that you didnt have the bead all the way up to the ceiling! We are very critical here at DWT arent we?


no no no!!
That was actually the boarder's fault! I had to tape it afterwards. That gap was in the ceiling sheet itself, he didn't make his notch tight enough around the corner, my bead wasn't too short, it just looked that way. So ha!!

Unfortunately...I was the hanger! :blink: :laughing:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

OK - your off the hook PT and yes, you too seem to know what you are doing in drywall. That was a really great video for Columbia on their auto taper by the way.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

A smooth finish said:


> I think so. I was told that you use regular mud for taping because it has more glue in it then hot mud.


That's why the drywall gods made glue. You can put it in anything. And.........................it works.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> OK - your off the hook PT and yes, you too seem to know what you are doing in drywall. That was a really great video for Columbia on their auto taper by the way.


Thanks man!! I'm happy with the way it turned out as well.
I should be pumping out more videos in the next few weeks, I've been slacking pretty hard because we've been busy.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

DLSdrywall said:


> FOr a patch i prefill with durabond 45, crush up some drywall dust in your mix to speed up drying, it should seize in 5 min. Tape wih durabond 45. Coat with sheetrock 45, put a nice skim with mud. Thats what works for me. The best advice i can give you if your doing fast drying coats make your work smooth as possible to eliminate bubbles. Make your first coat look like your finish coat!



You have to be carefull, there is a difference between set and dry. We are king of hot mud down under but the problem is it looks dry but under the tape is still wet. Then when it drys you get delayed shrinkage. I have never used fibre fuse but I can see the advantage with drying.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Patching routine? lol.
> Goes like this.
> *alarm sounds*
> Wake up out of bed groaning "F!ck my life...."
> ...


 LMAO :thumbup:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Mudshark said:


> No of course you do. I did notice on one of your videos though that you didnt have the bead all the way up to the ceiling! We are very critical here at DWT arent we?


 Why do you want your cornerbead to touch the ceiling? I always back off the bead a pinch.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

betterdrywall said:


> Why do you want your cornerbead to touch the ceiling? I always back off the bead a pinch.


He was just giving me a hard time. :jester:
Trying to be difficult.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

I was taught to leave a gap at the bottom of the bead but to run the top tight into the ceiling. It still sags sometimes due to gravity but why have a gap at the top?


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Mudshark said:


> I was taught to leave a gap at the bottom of the bead but to run the top tight into the ceiling. It still sags sometimes due to gravity but why have a gap at the top?


 For relief of movement,, bead won't pop out or crack as bad. And too it is just a slight backoff of the bead .


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> For relief of movement,, bead won't pop out or crack as bad. And too it is just a slight backoff of the bead .


45 degree the top of the bead then, if that's a concern where you are. That way, the ceiling will settle on the point..... it will act as a spear :yes:


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

Why don't you slice the ceiling where the bead is going, so the bead goes slightly past the ceiling.:yes:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

DLSdrywall said:


> Why don't you slice the ceiling where the bead is going, so the bead goes slightly past the ceiling.:yes:



Thats a new one to me but sounds good, does it work?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

DLSdrywall said:


> Why don't you slice the ceiling where the bead is going, so the bead goes slightly past the ceiling.:yes:





Mudshark said:


> Thats a new one to me but sounds good, does it work?


lol! I've never had that much of a problem where I need to slice a hole in the ceiling to let my bead float up into it. lol.
If you're ceiling is moving that much, you have bigger problems than your bead.


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

I only do that where i know it will crack like a loft upstairs those small beads that come down from the 45 they always hairline crack. I'm not saying slice into your ceiling on everyone. You should know what will crack at what wont


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