# Fiba fuse in corners



## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Im finding since I switched to fiba fuse , that I am having to run my corners twice more after putting the tape on. I flush with a 3"cam am, next day use 2 1/2"can am them finish with a 3 1/2 columbia angle head. I've tried flushing with the 2 1/2"and finishing with the 3", but still need that extra coat to finish. I also have tried using most types of manufacturers mud with same results. How is everyone else finishing them?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

taper71 said:


> Im finding since I switched to fiba fuse , that I am having to run my corners twice more after putting the tape on. I flush with a 3"cam am, next day use 2 1/2"can am them finish with a 3 1/2 columbia angle head. I've tried flushing with the 2 1/2"and finishing with the 3", but still need that extra coat to finish. I also have tried using most types of manufacturers mud with same results. How is everyone else finishing them?


http://drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=1175

I use a roller and a 2.5 or a 3'' flusher on my tape coat...some times I will just use my 3'' flusher on my 2nd coat and I am done and other times I go old school (opposite corners)


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

A/P compound, tape, roll, and flush with a 2.5" Northstar head, when dry give it a quick swipe with the flexedge sander, then finish with 3.5" Northstar head using finishing compound through an anglebox.
The tape looks fairly rough after flushing but thats normal, 2 passes with the sander is enough before topcoating.
My angleheads are set really tight with hardly any rock at all.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

if its a bad corner add mesh first ....I said mesh then fuse the corner and it will not rip or cut with our knife:yes:


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Corner day tomorrow , rebuilt my 3 1/2 columbia angle head, and set it for a bit more mud coverage. I doubt it will be enough though as the tape coat shrank back to no coverage over the fiba fuse at all. I use an apla tech cannon to do corners on final coat.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Corner day tomorrow , rebuilt my 3 1/2 columbia angle head, and set it for a bit more mud coverage. I doubt it will be enough though as the tape coat shrank back to no coverage over the fiba fuse at all. I use an apla tech cannon to do corners on final coat.


Maybe you're wanting a finished coat too soon after putting the mud on? What I'm meaning:

Last 3 jobs I switched to FibaFuse, because the corners weren't drying well in the colder weather when using paper. Best that worked for me was 3" angle head for the taping, and 2 1/2" angle head for the last coat - large to small for angle heads, vs small to large when using flushers. 
Both angle heads have factory settings. Not tweaked right now for FibaFuse.

Both times I gave a light swipe with the angle heads at 1st, to let the mud against the board dry back a bit, before I made a tighter final swipe a few minutes later, carrying any built up mud out of the corners some as well. Worked well enough, including the areas that had bevels, which I hadn't prefilled.

When I put the tape on and rolled, I let that set a bit as well before making a 1st angle head pass, to try and leave the deeper parts with more fill mud. It also seems to let the FibaFuse 'set' a little more, so doesn't get pulled up as easy when I go over it with an angle head.

At least that was my experience so far with FibaFuse in the corners.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

JustMe said:


> Last 3 jobs I switched to FibaFuse,


I should've said "Last 3 jobs I switched to FibaFuse IN THE CORNERS." I've been using FF at times for the flats and for patches for the last 3 years.

I tried FibaFuse again on a couple butts the last job, since I was going to hand coat and not box the butts. They lifted along the middle seam, one all the way and one part way. The ones I did with paper didn't. I'm going back to using paper only on the butts.

Maybe slicing up sheets of FF like Ice does could be what to use on butts, because it doesn't have a seam?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I should've said "Last 3 jobs I switched to FibaFuse IN THE CORNERS." I've been using FF at times for the flats and for patches for the last 3 years.
> 
> I tried FibaFuse again on a couple butts the last job, since I was going to hand coat and not box the butts. They lifted along the middle seam, one all the way and one part way. The ones I did with paper didn't. I'm going back to using paper only on the butts.
> 
> Maybe slicing up sheets of FF like Ice does could be what to use on butts, because it doesn't have a seam?


cut your own 2'' rolls of FF on 12'' miter saw...works good. and 1'' strips work great around door and window trim , steps, outlets and anywhere you flat tape <smaller tape = 4'' knife less mud>:thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

JustMe said:


> I should've said "Last 3 jobs I switched to FibaFuse IN THE CORNERS." I've been using FF at times for the flats and for patches for the last 3 years.
> 
> I tried FibaFuse again on a couple butts the last job, since I was going to hand coat and not box the butts. They lifted along the middle seam, one all the way and one part way. The ones I did with paper didn't. I'm going back to using paper only on the butts.
> 
> Maybe slicing up sheets of FF like Ice does could be what to use on butts, because it doesn't have a seam?


Are you sure it wasn't from wiping too tight, although I think you've mentioned that before.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> Are you sure it wasn't from wiping too tight, although I think you've mentioned that before.


If I did mention it, it would've been more a guess.

Maybe there is something to it(?) Maybe one does need to leave a layer of mud on top of the thinner middle seam, to keep those fibers from getting too wet again when coating and lifting?

Regardless, I don't want to have to wonder if I or someone else wiped something too tight, and find out later. Especially when the primer goes on and it again lifts, when you think you have it under control - which is what happened with one of them.

Ice's 'no seam' approach might be the thing for butts? Maybe the makers of FibaFuse should consider making rolls with no middle seam, as well? I don't know if that seam is really necessary except for when doing corners.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

JustMe said:


> Maybe you're wanting a finished coat too soon after putting the mud on? What I'm meaning:
> 
> Last 3 jobs I switched to FibaFuse, because the corners weren't drying well in the colder weather when using paper. Best that worked for me was 3" angle head for the taping, and 2 1/2" angle head for the last coat - large to small for angle heads, vs small to large when using flushers.
> Both angle heads have factory settings. Not tweaked right now for FibaFuse.
> ...


Honestly I have tried everything you said here. I stopped using an angle head on tape day as its just way faster using a 3 " flusher on tape day. No trash, less wiping bottoms, and 3 ways just need a little touch after mud sets up for awhile. I am leaning towards the mud as the problem. I am going to try all purpose mud on the next house as I have been using taping, ( cgc and certainteed ) to tape with. It shrinks back alot which is great in the bevels, but may be too much for the corners.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Honestly I have tried everything you said here. I stopped using an angle head on tape day as its just way faster using a 3 " flusher on tape day. No trash, less wiping bottoms, and 3 ways just need a little touch after mud sets up for awhile. I am leaning towards the mud as the problem. I am going to try all purpose mud on the next house as I have been using taping, ( cgc and certainteed ) to tape with. It shrinks back alot which is great in the bevels, but may be too much for the corners.


I used Synko taping mud for the taping, and their finishing mud on one job, and their Ultra Light AP on the other 2 jobs. That's what was supplied to me.

It was the last 2 jobs that I started to get a handle on doing the corners with FibaFuse, with the last job done using Ultra Light AP. The 1st job, when I used the AP as well, I had to add extra in spots to the bevelled areas after. I didn't pre-fill them on any of the jobs.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

JustMe said:


> If I did mention it, it would've been more a guess.
> 
> Maybe there is something to it(?) Maybe one does need to leave a layer of mud on top of the thinner middle seam, to keep those fibers from getting too wet again when coating and lifting?
> 
> ...


Yup there is something to it JM, I do it myself but it is obvious at the time so there is no guess work if you've wiped too tight or not, the worst butts to do are taper on one side and cut edge on the other, the cut edge will slice straight through the fuse unless it's bevel cut before hand. 
But now I re read your post I think you might talking about a different problem, you're talking about lifting after priming which would be more like fuse not bonding (guess). 
I've always wondered about that crease line in the middle, it doesn't look like mud would bleed through, Ice has the right idea....cut our own rolls out of a wide roll, cheaper too.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Well its a snow day. It took 2 hrs to drive 5 k,( 2 1/2 miles )for you Americans. turned around and went home. Will try again tomorrow:thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> Yup there is something to it JM, I do it myself but it is obvious at the time so there is no guess work if you've wiped too tight or not, the worst butts to do are taper on one side and cut edge on the other, the cut edge will slice straight through the fuse unless it's bevel cut before hand.
> But now I re read your post I think you might talking about a different problem, you're talking about lifting after priming which would be more like fuse not bonding (guess).


Thanks, K-man. Good to know.

You maybe had things more right the 1st time(?) Or had the 1st half of what was going on right enough, which was the start of the problem, and which carried over into the priming stage(?) As I said, "Especially when the primer goes on and it *again* lifts, when you think you have it under control - which is what happened with one of them." Note the bolded "again".

I haven't had any real problems that I know of with tapered one side and cut edge on the other, when using FF. At least not that I've been made aware of through callbacks. But I've tried to not get too carried away when wiping those down.


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