# peaked tape?



## kylemanley1 (Aug 30, 2012)

Have you guys ever had trouble with tape pooching or peaking right in the seam after first box coat? I'm wondering if this place was sealed up to tight and had nowhere for moisture to goand that had something to do with it. I know it had plenty of heat.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

kylemanley1 said:


> Have you guys ever had trouble with tape pooching or peaking right in the seam after first box coat? I'm wondering if this place was sealed up to tight and had nowhere for moisture to goand that had something to do with it. I know it had plenty of heat.


Paper tape?
Did you tape with it upside down?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Or did you tape with paper then coat over the paper straight away, that will do it.


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## kylemanley1 (Aug 30, 2012)

No I ran it in my bazooka the same way I always do so I know it wasn't upside down. I didn't put the first coat on it so I didn't see if it was dry prior but that could very well have been the problem.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

If you used taping air dry mud and the board seams were a little gappy and you got a lot of that mud in there, Then left the seam to dry but it only dryed at the edges and was still damp behind the tape in the centre, Then you coated over it with more air dry mud in cold or humid weather then that could peak the tapes.

Switch to fibafuse and prefill your seams with setting mud and you will be all good, or fill tape and first coat with setting muds like me and never have any trouble again.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

*Fibafuse*


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Yep, sounds like it wasn't fully dry under it.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I'm blaming this new ultralight crap. I have run into this issue a lot, I use fibafuse and sometimes it will peak after first coat others not until it gets primed. I have talked to other tapers who are having the same problem, it is driving me nuts. My best theory is that the crappy paper on the board is swelling with the moisture on the cut ends.


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## kylemanley1 (Aug 30, 2012)

I definetly agree that the materials aren't getting any better these days. Like when you rip a sheet and the paper just peels off the back. We've complained about it and they send a rep out with some t-shirts and hats. How about they fix the ****ty material and keep the shirts.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

saskataper said:


> I'm blaming this new ultralight crap. I have run into this issue a lot, I use fibafuse and sometimes it will peak after first coat others not until it gets primed. I have talked to other tapers who are having the same problem, it is driving me nuts. My best theory is that the crappy paper on the board is swelling with the moisture on the cut ends.


PREFILL ! Then tape.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

moore said:


> PREFILL ! Then tape.


Moore, you talking about doing a normal prefill? Like prefilling small gaps? Or are you saying prefill all the flats and butts even if they're dead tight?


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## kylemanley1 (Aug 30, 2012)

And the butts looked fine. It was in the seems only


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## kylemanley1 (Aug 30, 2012)

And we prefill all butts with hotmud


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

drywallninja said:


> Moore, you talking about doing a normal prefill? Like prefilling small gaps? Or are you saying prefill all the flats and butts even if they're dead tight?


Depends on the board ... Dead tight? Go to town! No need for pre-fill..But The rounded/sloped recesses seem to need a pre-fill before tape. 
IMO.. I cut all the loose blister paper off the factory butts before tape also... But That's just me!!!! Do what what cha want!!!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

kylemanley1 said:


> And we prefill all butts with hotmud


I can only guess [without being there ] You pushed It. ? 
I walked across the road today to see what my brother in arms had going on ..They taped and blocked in same day with A/P [Far as i could tell]


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## kylemanley1 (Aug 30, 2012)

I hung the job and taped it. Then had to go to another job so a different guy boxed it, good possibility it was wet when he coated it just haven't had the chance to ask him. Doubt he would admit it if it was.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

kylemanley1 said:


> I hung the job and taped it. Then had to go to another job so a different guy boxed it, good possibility it was wet when he coated it just haven't had the chance to ask him. Doubt he would admit it if it was.


Just because it looks dry don't mean It's cured ...You can't push it! 

If the painters are pushing ya... Tell them to get a real job!!


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

moore said:


> Just because it looks dry don't mean It's cured ...You can't push it!
> 
> If the painters are pushing ya... Tell them to get a real job!!


Aint that the truth brother....just because it looks white does not mean its dry. I do the finger nail test. See if you can push your nail in where the two boards butt. Chaps my butt when a GC calls because we are not there the day after tape....sometimes the tape coat needs to set a day..I would say 80 percent of bad finishing jobs are from wet coats.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

moore said:


> Depends on the board ... Dead tight? Go to town! No need for pre-fill..But The rounded/sloped recesses seem to need a pre-fill before tape.
> IMO.. I cut all the loose blister paper off the factory butts before tape also... But That's just me!!!! Do what what cha want!!!


I do the same thing! I hate me a blister!:furious:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

I never load bead till the next day after box and screws, that moisture is a concern


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## DAVE17352 (Nov 19, 2010)

We as a rule never coat wet tape. It can lead to it peaking or shrinking back. I find it shrinks back most often.


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

propane heat. to much moisture. taping mud is not drying fast enough. muds sanging out:whistling2:

try stiffer mud.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

eazyrizla said:


> propane heat. to much moisture. taping mud is not drying fast enough. muds sanging out:whistling2:
> 
> try stiffer mud.


Stiffer mud? Yuck! If the mud is too stiff, the tape won't wipe in right. Causes other problems. Only need enough behind the tape to keep it stuck to the wall!

Run an angle with a taper and roll it in. Peel the tape off and see how much mud is left back there.... not much!


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## DAVE17352 (Nov 19, 2010)

eazyrizla said:


> propane heat. to much moisture. taping mud is not drying fast enough. muds sanging out:whistling2:
> 
> try stiffer mud.



That's another rule, don't use propane heat. Unless vented. Sometimes the contractors just don't want to believe it is a problem. But it sure is.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

We always leave a window cracked if the job has propane heat


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

moore said:


> I can only guess [without being there ] You pushed It. ?
> I walked across the road today to see what my brother in arms had going on ..They taped and blocked in same day with A/P [Far as i could tell]


how do you get so much mud on the floor with just one butt...sorry moore just playing ....but keep your mud on your hawk:thumbup:


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Stiffer mud? Yuck! If the mud is too stiff, the tape won't wipe in right. Causes other problems. Only need enough behind the tape to keep it stuck to the wall!
> 
> Run an angle with a taper and roll it in. Peel the tape off and see how much mud is left back there.... not much![/QUOT
> 
> we do what we gota do


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

tape with con fill. it will work, lol


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## 941owassard (Mar 11, 2013)

I've seen that happen on existing painted ceilings while painting. All cleaned up ready to get paid and oh S##t what is that.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

A propane heater can get the sheetrock too hot and it will ridge on you near the heater. We prefill all flats good or bad prior to taping with setting mud. Good way to find broken factory edge that would otherwise seem fine. Doesn't take that much longer.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

endo_alley said:


> A propane heater can get the sheetrock too hot and it will ridge on you near the heater. We prefill all flats good or bad prior to taping with setting mud. Good way to find broken factory edge that would otherwise seem fine. Doesn't take that much longer.


Do you find that sometimes when you sand you expose tape here or there? Just wondering how much you're filling the flats? Especially since it's with setting mud.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

drywallninja said:


> Do you find that sometimes when you sand you expose tape here or there? Just wondering how much you're filling the flats? Especially since it's with setting mud.


The only time I see tape get exposed is when it is a really bad butt joint and we were afraid to put too much mud over an already crowned butt joint. Never in recessed bands. Just enough prefill mud to join the two sheets wipe away the excess.


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

the guy that don't show lets his mud dry!:yes:


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

I like n gas heat. I can work everyday.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> A propane heater can get the sheetrock too hot and it will ridge on you near the heater. We prefill all flats good or bad prior to taping with setting mud. Good way to find broken factory edge that would otherwise seem fine. Doesn't take that much longer.


GC s wont allow propane heat unless it sits in the basement on concrete floor,

works good then, maybe a fan on main floor to help move it upstairs works fine:yes:

some people blast the salamander but I just turn it to where it works without over doing it...


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Unvented propane heat will add tons of moisture to the rock and make your finish product ugly..
I took Tims advice years ago and bought one of these.


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## Gibstopper (Aug 30, 2012)

*peaks*

there are lots of reasons the joints peak, but I think it has a LOT to do with the board. some times we get good board, and a lot of the time we don't. look at you board before you tape. sometimes it look like this--\/-- at the join. I believe ( my own opinion ) that the V ing on the join is the problem. when we tape we wipe out the plaster, it forces plaster into the V and a few minutes or so later, that plaster pushes back out of the flat tape causing the peak. I have had peaking like you all, I have tried different tapes, different plaster.
we are all professional but some times it drives me crazy.....
I blame the board ...


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

"when we tape we wipe out the plaster, it forces plaster into the V and a few minutes or so later, that plaster pushes back out " That is why it is necessary to cut out damaged paper and prefill all joints.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

endo_alley said:


> "when we tape we wipe out the plaster, it forces plaster into the V and a few minutes or so later, that plaster pushes back out " That is why it is necessary to cut out damaged paper and prefill all joints.


I hear ya about prefilling joints. But if a joint doesn't have a gap and it's "tight", I'm not prefilling it. Are you prefilling every joint?


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

We prefill every joint. And gaps in the inside angles. It doesn't take that much more time. Cutting out bad paper and Vee-ing the butt joints is a little slow. But once that is done prefill is fast. And there is an advantage of catching damage to factory edges that have been turned to powder inside the paper from stockers sliding the sheets in through a window. They show up as a blister in the prefill mud.


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## Shell Rowe (11 mo ago)

kylemanley1 said:


> Have you guys ever had trouble with tape pooching or peaking right in the seam after first box coat? I'm wondering if this place was sealed up to tight and had nowhere for moisture to goand that had something to do with it. I know it had plenty of heat.


What does tape peaking mean exactly? Does it mean the tape is listed or does it mean it is showing ?


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