# knives , taking care of them and the little tricks you do ?



## FAB (May 6, 2014)

This forum is great.It really has me wanting to increase my knowledge and tricks of the trade seeing how other pro's do things.This thread is not just for me,it would be nice if everyone can talk about the useful little things of the trade that get overlooked 

I have a few questions to start off if you guys dont mind.

1. How do you sharpen your knives?What tools to sharpen?Do you have and knives that you like dull?

ex. For me i only sharpen my smaller knives expecially my Hyde 6's or if a knife gets knicked.I use a norton honing stone or harbor freight diamond honer. I rub the knife vertically on the stone and then a few times at a angle (almost flat)

2. What type of knives do you like best and brand ?
- Folded backing or rounded extruded backing and why?
- Anyone use bigger 8",10"+ joint knives(not taping knives) like a HYde pro joint knife?What would a knife like this be good for?
- Flexible or rigid knives? 
-Blue steel/carbon steel or stainless?

I use all Hyde joint knives up to 6" (love my 6" Hyde superflex and rigid Hyde 5 and 6) . Taping knives i always used stainless and was afraid of blue steel after i had one a long time ago and rusted so bad right away however recently i tried blue steel again and im liking them more then stainless now. They really have more suction and flexibility. I use a marshaltown durasoft rounded extruded back 10,12,14 .I dont really know the difference of flat back or the extruded back i just seem to go with the extruded.For 8" i am still using a kraft stainless which i really like so i never changed it to blue steel. I still have tons of other stainless knives but dont use them as much anymore. I also use a 11" curved trowel for flats at first coating beads and a marshaltown 12" flat trowel that i dont use much.Still learning troweling.On flats,bead on walls i am awesome on the trowels but for some reason i cant do trowels on ceilings.I just make a mess and cant get a smooth coat. More so on ceiling butts.

3.For guys that prime or level 5. What primer do you guys like? Level 5 compound ?Also for mud itself whats your fav mud and what characteristics do you like about it? 

I use Sheetrock AP(green lid) with mudmax for taping and sometimes first coat because its very versatile,can be altered for different things while still working well and bonds awesome&nbsp; and everything else i use Lafarge rapid coat because its very slick,doesnt pock much,doesnt dry out in the pan or hawk quick and not much water is needed.Also sands good but not super soft like crappy plus3.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I sure have never had the need to sharpen a knife. Rubbing it on drywall paper all day will put an edge on it so it will cut rock in a pinch. Mine sure will. Cuts plastic, rosin paper, anything a razor will cut. The trouble I have is, it sharpens them so much soon they are ruined in time.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I file my knives[blue steel] with a bastard file. I want a dull edge.

But Will only file a 12' broad knife once ..It warps the blade ,but by that time It's ready to pitch anyway.

The stainless knives are near impossible to file no matter how much ass you put behind it!! Another reason why I don't like stainless . Other than the fact that there all bowed up after you use em for the first time.:whistling2:


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

sand paper works well to remove any nicks in a blade.i also sand down one side of my 5" knife to always have a good 90 to wipe in corners when I run finish by hand.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Tim0282 said:


> I sure have never had the need to sharpen a knife. Rubbing it on drywall paper all day will put an edge on it so it will cut rock in a pinch. Mine sure will. Cuts plastic, rosin paper, anything a razor will cut. The trouble I have is, it sharpens them so much soon they are ruined in time.


I'm with you on this one Tim. Normal use keeps my knives very sharp. No problem slicing through the dried Portuguese sausage this afternoon.:no:
If by some slim chance I feel my NEW knife needs a little attention I will give it a rub on the garage floor.
I never get nicks. Always seem to get gouges. That's why I keep 2 or 3 of each size in my tool box. Chuck 'em or use them to scrape with.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

good stuff guys! 

Is it weird that i really love this Harbor freight knife in the link. Its a cheap knockoff knife but it feels and performs awesome.I bought it cuz i saw it in the store and i figured i could use it for scraping floors etc. I find myself going to it over my name brand kraft,hyde and marshaltown 10's. They have a nice broken in feel right out of the store too. Next time i go to harborfreight im picking up a few more of them. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-blue-steel-taping-knife-96379.html


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

FAB said:


> good stuff guys!
> 
> Is it weird that i really love this Harbor freight knife in the link. Its a cheap knockoff knife but it feels and performs awesome.I bought it cuz i saw it in the store and i figured i could use it for scraping floors etc. I find myself going to it over my name brand kraft,hyde and marshaltown 10's. They have a nice broken in feel right out of the store too. Next time i go to harborfreight im picking up a few more of them.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-blue-steel-taping-knife-96379.html


I don't know what you're talking about...


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

wow,i guess im not the only one that liked it.Thats awesome. You just have to look out when buying it . I had to look through a handfull of them to find a nice straight one. 

Thats one dirty knife  . Mine doesnt have much blue left either but i clean and dry my blue steels like every 30min when using them and oil them at the end of the day.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Don't sharpen them if you need a good edge file the edge down flat. Cuts the mud tight and will not roll the mud. It does not take much. Make sure any knife used in the angles the rounded edges are filed to a 90. There is always some debate on what type of edge you want on your knife or trowel do what works best for you. I know that if spotting screws you will get less build up after 3 coats with a filed knife no matter how hard you wipe with a wore down one, but then again after you file a new edge on any knife its like breaking it in all over again. Some use both sides of the blade that seems to work, myself always use one side and only file if I feel that it needs it.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

FAB said:


> wow,i guess im not the only one that liked it.Thats awesome. You just have to look out when buying it . I had to look through a handfull of them to find a nice straight one.
> 
> Thats one dirty knife  . Mine doesnt have much blue left either but i clean and dry my blue steels like every 30min when using them and oil them at the end of the day.


 The blue isn't to stay on there for the duration of the knife it wears off.. as far as cleaning a knife every 30 min. good thing you don't work for me. Unless you are using some quick setting mud, which is the downside because it is harsh on blue steel.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

silverstilts said:


> The blue isn't to stay on there for the duration of the knife it wears off.. as far as cleaning a knife every 30 min. good thing you don't work for me. Unless you are using some quick setting mud, which is the downside because it is harsh on blue steel.


It isnt as slow as it seems. More like when refilling my mud pan i hit the knife blade with the scrub brush in hot water bucket and wipe off on towel.Takes 2 seconds.I like to work with clean knives without dried mud on it. With blue steel only. With stainless knives i dont clean them nearly as often .Usually just a quick scrub down at end of day if that

I know that The blue on my knives are almost faded off on one side after my first day with them. Usually how i tell my front side from back. If the blue lasted forever it would mean your not using your knife enough


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

FAB said:


> It isnt as slow as it seems. More like when refilling my mud pan i hit the knife blade with the scrub brush in hot water bucket and wipe off on towel.Takes 2 seconds.I like to work with clean knives without dried mud on it. With blue steel only. With stainless knives i dont clean them nearly as often .Usually just a quick scrub down at end of day if that
> 
> I know that The blue on my knives are almost faded off on one side after my first day with them. Usually how i tell my front side from back. If the blue lasted forever it would mean your not using your knife enough


 If you wear whites place a golf towel in the loop. Dont let mud dry up. Wipe on towel as needed. You wont need to clean tools every 15 minutes. I clean my knives before lunch and when I go home. I never go anywhere without small towel and a beach towel for drying tools.:thumbsup:


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

mudslingr said:


> I'm with you on this one Tim. Normal use keeps my knives very sharp. No problem slicing through the dried Portuguese sausage this afternoon.:no:
> If by some slim chance I feel my NEW knife needs a little attention I will give it a rub on the garage floor.
> I never get nicks. Always seem to get gouges. That's why I keep 2 or 3 of each size in my tool box. Chuck 'em or use them to scrape with.


What do you know about that portuguese sausage. Im portuguese born in america but both my parents are from the islands and I agree working with a knife gets it plenty sharp enough, ask my fingers


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

a trick.....I cut my knifes so they work in 3 way and don't cut ff ...I think all good finishers will cat there 6 or 5'' knife


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

FAB said:


> wow,i guess im not the only one that liked it.Thats awesome. You just have to look out when buying it . I had to look through a handfull of them to find a nice straight one.
> 
> Thats one dirty knife  . Mine doesnt have much blue left either but i clean and dry my blue steels like every 30min when using them and oil them at the end of the day.


It is dirty, I usually clean them at the end of the day, but that day I just wanted to get out of there, lol.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

fr8train said:


> It is dirty, I usually clean them at the end of the day, but that day I just wanted to get out of there, lol.


Iv had plenty of those days lol


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

silverstilts said:


> Don't sharpen them if you need a good edge file the edge down flat. Cuts the mud tight and will not roll the mud. It does not take much. Make sure any knife used in the angles the rounded edges are filed to a 90. There is always some debate on what type of edge you want on your knife or trowel do what works best for you. I know that if spotting screws you will get less build up after 3 coats with a filed knife no matter how hard you wipe with a wore down one, but then again after you file a new edge on any knife its like breaking it in all over again. Some use both sides of the blade that seems to work, myself always use one side and only file if I feel that it needs it.


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

this used to be a 5".i used it for detail work with stucco on a few occasions which wore it down.it's been my back pocket knife for many years .I've only used sandpaper to keep a good 90 0n the one side.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

b said:


>


 I want the one on the left. Thats a little money maker


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

silverstilts said:


> Don't sharpen them if you need a good edge file the edge down flat. Cuts the mud tight and will not roll the mud. It does not take much. Make sure any knife used in the angles the rounded edges are filed to a 90. There is always some debate on what type of edge you want on your knife or trowel do what works best for you. I know that if spotting screws you will get less build up after 3 coats with a filed knife no matter how hard you wipe with a wore down one, but then again after you file a new edge on any knife its like breaking it in all over again. Some use both sides of the blade that seems to work, myself always use one side and only file if I feel that it needs it.


These are great tips.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Another little question. 

When using trim-tex beads requiring a setback of the drywall ,what do you use to cut it back quick? I have been trying to find a way to speed up the process but its still a time consuming pain in da $$$.

I mark by setting the square to the setback amount and running it up the wall with a pencil then I was using a utility knife and keeping a fresh blade in it. i switched to using a multi-tool now with drywall blade,a little faster but still slower then id like.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Talk to your rockers and get them to do it right in the first place. Other than that it's back to the knife.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

FAB said:


> Another little question.
> 
> When using trim-tex beads requiring a setback of the drywall ,what do you use to cut it back quick? I have been trying to find a way to speed up the process but its still a time consuming pain in da $$$.
> 
> I mark by setting the square to the setback amount and running it up the wall with a pencil then I was using a utility knife and keeping a fresh blade in it. i switched to using a multi-tool now with drywall blade,a little faster but still slower then id like.


Icerock says there is a new mudset without the I-beam!
Now I would b interested in that as I'm the same as u and hate cutting the rock back! I have no control over the boarders so it could b the answer!:thumbsup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Indeed, their new low profile bead doesn't have the i-beam so no more worries about the rock needing cut back :thumbsup:.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

thefinisher said:


> Indeed, their new low profile bead doesn't have the i-beam so no more worries about the rock needing cut back :thumbsup:.


Thanx for that!:thumbsup:
Just need 2 get intouch with Joe now and c if the UK can get some!:yes:


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

Im getting a box of the mudset with I beam as you guys say priced they can order sticks of nocoat for 160 a box which comes to 3.20 a bead which isnt that bad


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

The LP works for standard corners but still need to cut back on stepabull's ,niche beads etc which i use a lot .They require setbacks of 1/2"-5/8" sometimes even more depending on the size.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Corey The Taper said:


> Im getting a box of the mudset with I beam as you guys say priced they can order sticks of nocoat for 160 a box which comes to 3.20 a bead which isnt that bad


there is a new mudset beed without the I beam....you will like that:thumbsup:...I tried it the other day. they still are strong.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Icerock says there is a new mudset without the I-beam!
> Now I would b interested in that as I'm the same as u and hate cutting the rock back! I have no control over the boarders so it could b the answer!:thumbsup:


very nice


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