# Job with no heat...



## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

I look at a job yesterday. And its two apts one on top of the other. I bidded on the upstairs apt because it is ready to be rocked and finished. There is no heat in the apts. Its about 800 sqft..

What is the best way to get a job to stay heated in the winter? With out spending big bucks..
I was thinking of this:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=245179-88644-RMC-LPC80C&lpage=none

If I buy the heater and the HO buys the propane.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

Everyone uses those here


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Whitey97 said:


> Everyone uses those here


 I assume that GC or HO must buys the propane?


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

lol......one would think.....


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

I finished a barn one winter and just about every seem cracked. From going from hot to cold. And the tearaway along the bottom never really dryed. I used 45. Had to go back and fix it all. It was a extra..


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Get the HO to rent a heater and supply fuel.
This way you would not be liable if the house burns to the ground.
I have heaters like that. It will heat that apt. but remember, propane puts a lot of moisture in the air. You may also need a dehumidifier.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

that's why you usually open a window


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Whitey97 said:


> that's why you usually open a window


:yes: I forgot on a job once...:whistling2: It was like a steam room in there..


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

there wasn't much that dried was there....lol


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Whitey97 said:


> there wasn't much that dried was there....lol


 It dryed and the wood work on the ceiling dryed out too. And some places it the T&G wood split. :whistling2:


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

So on the job with the HO in the OP.If he doesnt get heat. I will just do it cold.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

well, if you do it in the cold here, it'll freeze, then once it dries in the spring it'll shrink and prolly crack, then I'm doing it over.... no thanks, I'll pay 50 bucks for propane and upcharge the contractor.


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Whitey97 said:


> well, if you do it in the cold here, it'll freeze, then once it dries in the spring it'll shrink and prolly crack, then I'm doing it over.... no thanks, I'll pay 50 bucks for propane and upcharge the contractor.


It been very cold here.Lower temp then the norm. But it goes up and down fast. 3 days ago it was around 20 and lower. Today at 8:30 am it 42. So when I talk to the HO about the job this week. We will talk about the heat. 
Thanks


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

Make sure to tell him how important it is for the best quality end product. When in reality it's your poor wittle finners


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

i would not use a propane heater like that one way to much moister even with the window open , not to mention it can leave a residue on all the walls and ceiling no matter how clean you may think it burns ... my solution ( is even though a contractor says he will provide the propane or kerosene which they never do always have to run and get it and not be reimbursed ) is to buy a couple or even one good electric 220 volt heater and tap into there power. It is a dry heat and don't have to worry about refueling and worrying about who will foot the heating bill ......most times contractors are very happy..


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

silverstilts said:


> i would not use a propane heater like that one way to much moister even with the window open , not to mention it can leave a residue on all the walls and ceiling no matter how clean you may think it burns ... my solution ( is even though a contractor says he will provide the propane or kerosene which they never do always have to run and get it and not be reimbursed ) is to buy a couple or even one good electric 220 volt heater and tap into there power. It is a dry heat and don't have to worry about refueling and worrying about who will foot the heating bill ......most times contractors are very happy..


Thats a very good idea.. What would you use or do use?

Thanks


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I'm going to wave the bull**** flag, respectively. I've been on a lot of job sites with propane heaters, and have not once seen a white residue. Are you sure you're not putting that on the walls? Hell I'm doing a res. const. house right now, where that's what they're using. A reddy heater 100k btu.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Whitey97 said:


> I'm going to wave the bull**** flag, respectively. I've been on a lot of job sites with propane heaters, and have not once seen a white residue. Are you sure you're not putting that on the walls? Hell I'm doing a res. const. house right now, where that's what they're using. A reddy heater 100k btu.


If you look on the first post and go to that web site there is a pic of a propane heater which i was referring to in particular. they are the worst there is and as far as residue i did not mention it would be white but no matter what type of heater you use if it is not vented you will get residue make no mistake... the fuel burned and the exhaust has to go some where don't ya think???? i have yet to see any torpedo heater propane kerosene or diesel work 100 percent.... even a permanent furnace in a home needs a vent why do you think that is..... not to mention breathing in that air....and also its not fun dragging around a 100# tank of propane which will only last a couple of days at most . it is a very wet source of heat.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

this is the one most contractors use in new construction they are 220 volt and one will heat a small to med home 1500 ft sometimes use a couple of them and add some fans it works good. you would be very surprised at how much heat they put out and you don't have to put up with the roar of a ready heater or the odor.....


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

*220 Electric boxes much safer*

I agree Silverstilts, 

The 220 hydro units are the norm up our way. Been around the propane ones and wow, lots of moisture, toxic fumes and smell. I think there is issues as well with fire marshalls and the propane heaters. More than one building has burnt to the ground due to the gas heaters. Much safer to go with the hydro heaters but still need to open windows a crack. 

:hammer:


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

silverstilts said:


> this is the one most contractors use in new construction they are 220 volt and one will heat a small to med home 1500 ft sometimes use a couple of them and add some fans it works good. you would be very surprised at how much heat they put out and you don't have to put up with the roar of a ready heater or the odor.....


 
Where can I get one? Does loews or Hd sell them?


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

i run ones that are just a little different then the one i posted which i picked up at the home depot for around $235.00 which isn't a bad investment they will last 4-5 years and many hours , it don't hurt to blow them out with and air hose once and a while to clean them...


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Thanks Silver...

I will look in to it..


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Al Taper said:


> Where can I get one? Does loews or Hd sell them?


here is one very similar to the one i use , the best bet would be go online and type in portable electric heaters (heavy duty) there you can find one to best suit your needs. for a small package they really deliver the heat which i know up here in northern mn it gets very cold well below 0 degrees in the double digits.... good luck and let me know what you end up doing.... silver stilts aka----the rock doctor :thumbsup: ps i did buy mine from HD


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

I was priceing them today online.And 2 something was a little pricey for this job. I know I will have it for years but this job is only 65 board (10s). Not a money maker. And I bidded it tight to get it. Been slow here... But dont get me wrong thankyou for the help...


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Al Taper said:


> I was priceing them today online.And 2 something was a little pricey for this job. I know I will have it for years but this job is only 65 board (10s). Not a money maker. And I bidded it tight to get it. Been slow here... But dont get me wrong thankyou for the help...


 well if you are like the rest of us money can be tight but we should always try to add to you tool inventory every year even if we don't really need something in particular it really helps us out not giving a hand out to uncle sam for all those who refuse to work and are on welfare .... could never figure out why someone who makes little or nothing can get back 6-7000 dollars a year while i seem to pay that much more in every year it really sucks sometimes thinking about it but at least i can sleep at night knowing that i provide for my family of 6 and that isn't always easy.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

In cold weather we use both LP and Kero but have switched ones w/ thermostatic control which requires electric (use 12 ga ext. or thermostat won't cycle on/off correctly). This keeps it from baking the work and if you just crack the windows open the humidity will drive out. I get the LP co. to deliver 3-5 100# bottles to my shop way cheaper than at rental store. My cost on 100# is approx. $65.00. I charge the builder more and don't depend on someone else to heat the work. Check the bottle before going home. If in doubt put on a new one and burn the partial during the day. I can usually make one last 2-3 days. The larger heaters usually cost around $350 or sh/b able to rent.
Hold out for one with a thermostat, it will save fuel and keep the heat much more constant.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

If i had to use something other than an electric temp. I would choose a torpedo heater and burn diesel rather than kerosene it seems to generate more heat and less moister , also back to the propane especially the upright ones without a blower they still put way to much moister into the house , even with the windows cracked open you come back and there is always a bunch of ice build up around the windows (not Good ) you don't want to stain up the wood with water you just might find yourself replacing windows if you have a picky HO or GC . Sometimes if you have a good GC he will have the air exchanged hooked up and this resolves the moister problem , but then again if that's hooked up they usually have the heat going too....Winter sucks than comes the summer finally and you have to deal with a different kinda moister & humidity problems .......Ever get a job where they wont let you cut the poly to let some ventilation in and let the house dry out ????:blink: Want the job done asap (last week) but wont give into helping out with some good common sense....


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Question for ****** , what part of MN do you work ? Are you down in the TC area ??


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

yes sir, However i make it up to the north part a bit


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

I have a diesel space heater and I do not appreciate the fumes that I have to breath seems to me With all the dust and paint fumes I have to be around is enough. There is a guy in town that was working in his shop about 24 wide x 16 tall 30 long using a diesel heater that after about a half day of wrenching was found by a friend under his truck passed out and almost dead, What he did was stupid of course not venting the building at all will result this way every time. it is poison. Here everyone uses toyo stoves and monitors also wood stoves its very cold in the winter. If someone asks me to use a space heater diesel of propane I just tell them that it is not safe and that Im not willing to have to worry about ther place burning down. Please just install the damn heater that is going in as soom as im done. Also here power is .52 cents a kilawatt hour so electric heaters are not a option.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

why the hell don't they all just stick in temp furnaces? Is that not done else where or am I just that big of a prick that I won't work without one? you guys are making me feel spoiled!


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## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

out here if i go on a job with no heat in the winter months and spit it freezes before it hits the floor


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## krazzy (Mar 19, 2009)

silverstilts said:


> this is the one most contractors use in new construction they are 220 volt and one will heat a small to med home 1500 ft sometimes use a couple of them and add some fans it works good. you would be very surprised at how much heat they put out and you don't have to put up with the roar of a ready heater or the odor.....


Hi all new to the forum, nice site, as silver stated this is what we use up here, they are called "construction heaters" Portable Construction Heater 
- Spiral fin tubular element 
- 240 volts 
- 4800 watts 
- 16,416 BTU they run around $75 dollars canadian here
they are very safe and economical to run, lots up here use them to keep cabins heated during winters, and to keep at a constant temp of say 45 degrees during winter at average temps of -20 outside cost for power is usally $50 per month


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

I'm with ****** on the temporary furnace. However I do like Silvers Electric heaters.

When using lp torpedos or pot heaters. I end up with cracks in the ceilings right above the heater. I also like to have the lids hung and let the heat run for a week or two.
I pushes the moisture out of the place.


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Have you ever hit your thumb with your hatchet when its that cold ?


brdn_drywall said:


> out here if i go on a job with no heat in the winter months and spit it freezes before it hits the floor


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I think I'm going to get one of those heaters for the dog shed. lol


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