# Reverse boxing



## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Hello, I work as a painter in Sweden and it is a little different from how it looks in other countries. A painter in Sweden do everything, wallpaper, plaster, paint, outdoor / indoor, etc.

Regarding filler, here everything is premixed and we almost never mix our own filler. All plaster products this also seems to be much thicker consistency than what you have in the United States.

Now to my question, here we do only two layers, first day paper tape and then the next day, the top layer that's it. But, I like the idea of using a flat box. It is too heavy to work with our premixed filler and when I add water then it's much easier but then I have to flat box three layers. Even with added water so I still think it's too heavy. Removed the springs from the box, considerably easier and do not understand why they are there in the first place.

What I have come up with and are the easiest and require only two coats are reverse filling the box(reverse boxing). I roll up the filler(18 cm roller or spray) and running in third setting on a 10" NorthStar. Use the box as a scrape and then I press the filler back into the bucket. Anyone here who has used the technique of reverse boxing?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Sounds good. Coats just depends if the shrinkage. The three coats it shouldn't be much sanding on a smooth finish. The springs assist you when filling the Box. So no you really don't need them


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hello THE and welcome to the site.

You have some interesting techniques going on there and completely different.

Never heard of anyone putting mud on then using the box to level off and remove excess mud before................If that's what your saying?

Sounds a bit bizarre, And messy, Would be interested to see what the finished work looks like, Anything I know and have used or heard of that's a premix filler shrinks so just two coats defies belief.

This painter in New Zealand tapes paints interior exterior and wallpapers.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

cazna said:


> Never heard of anyone putting mud on then using the box to level off and remove excess mud before................If that's what your saying?


Exactly like that, it´s not messy and quite fast if you spray the joints(need some practice). Maybe I just have to get used to squeeze out the compound from the box, maybe I'm weak.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

I can not quite grasp the idea that the hole behind the blade where mass comes out is a fixed size. It should be variable and could be larger or smaller. Not everyone has the same thickness on its compound and I'd love that the hole was bigger and then it will automatically that you do not need to squeeze so hard.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

And, why is there no electrical box or like what I are developing to mount a caulk gun on the box and it gets ridiculously easy to press down on the lid. The only drawback right now is that I can not have the shaft when caulk gun is in the box, but I'm 6.5" tall so not really any need for a shaft.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I would love to see this aswell as the whole point of the box is to apply the mud and finish it.....applying it first then running a box sounds like an expensive trowel


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

embella plaster said:


> I would love to see this aswell as the whole point of the box is to apply the mud and finish it.....applying it first then running a box sounds like an expensive trowel


I'm lost!!!
Push the box and the mud comes out!:thumbsup:
Not sure why u would put the mud on the wall then run the box over it!:blink:


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

How many coats do you apply with trowel vs flat box? How much faster do you think you are with flat box vs trowel(by hand or with spray gun)?


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> How many coats do you apply with trowel vs flat box? How much faster do you think you are with flat box vs trowel(by hand or with spray gun)?


the same no of coats ......much much much faster than a trowel.....but my question for you is why do you need a box if you use a spray :blink:.....why not something like this :whistling2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bB5AAbfVcw


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> I can not quite grasp the idea that the hole behind the blade where mass comes out is a fixed size. It should be variable and could be larger or smaller. Not everyone has the same thickness on its compound and I'd love that the hole was bigger and then it will automatically that you do not need to squeeze so hard.


It must be fixed .... the amount of mud is a result of blade adjustment ...If you prefer thick mud I suggest you look for this kind of box 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0VRrCWhTm8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64uOfrr__Ko


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Thanks! Does it take you 3 days to finish a joint with a box? On what settings on the box, 1-5 (1 min, 5 max)?


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> Does it take you 3 days to finish a joint with a box? On what settings on the box, 1-5 (1 min, 5 max)?


3 days  do you wanna say few seconds for a coat with 45 minutes break - drying time - between coats .....settings work differently... depends on the quality of the board, frame etc... after each run the joint must be flat


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Ok, so you take a 45 min break and then do it all over again? We don't have that kind of compound here in Sweden, it takes at least 7 hours to dry. Do you soak the box into water when finished for the day?


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

What compound do you use?


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Tape, and just one (fill) coat? I wonder what the work looks like when it is painted? I can only imagine. That is how we used to do it in the seventies for popcorn ceilings. But not since then.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Banjo, press down the tape with compound on the knife and the next day finish coat. Always done it and I'm one of the best. Promise you, there no trouble with my joints. ?


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> Always done it and I'm one of the best. ?



:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: good 1 :notworthy:


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Thank you thank you! :whistling2:


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

I'm here to learn more about flat box, how to use it. Like I said, our compound premixed is to thick to use and need a lot of water. But then I have to make 3 coats instead of 2.

2 coats with a knife and then it has to be 3 with a box, but I like the idea of every joint looks the same an hard to beat a machine in result.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

With reverse boxing I only use 2 coats and "save" 1.


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## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

In denmark the painter also only make 2 coats by hand, and they dont understand i have to use 3 days.. But when they see the quallity, they call again 



Edit: 4 days with sanding


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

THE said:


> Banjo, press down the tape with compound on the knife and the next day finish coat. Always done it and I'm one of the best. Promise you, there no trouble with my joints. ?


One coat of mud, even on the butt joints. I'm sure you must be one of the best.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Wow tape then finish coat i dont think this guy understands what quality we produce with aus and american standards.....if done well no one can tape and one top coat over wow


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Only one of the best could do that !


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Do you think Swedish/Danish standard are poor? I learned from old painter...


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

THE said:


> Do you think Swedish/Danish standard are poor? I learned from old painter...


I dont know what to say i am just skeptical buddy as it sounds imposible to make good with that as a process


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

THE said:


> Do you think Swedish/Danish standard are poor? I learned from old painter...


From what your saying yeah I do, I tape, fill recess, box 7 box 10 box then 12 box trying to make dam sure it fill and set im correct times to avoid delayed shrinkage, even then come back in a year and it has, That's 5 coats isn't it, 2 would just be terrible.

Unless you have magic mud??

How damps your environment, Do you get much rain, Is your humidity very high?


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

Unless you have magic mud??


Yeah, can i get some.magical.mud. probably worth the shipping!


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

If i can get 2 coat mud sign me up


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

cazna said:


> From what your saying yeah I do, I tape, fill recess, box 7 box 10 box then 12 box trying to make dam sure it fill and set im correct times to avoid delayed shrinkage, even then come back in a year and it has, That's 5 coats isn't it, 2 would just be terrible.
> 
> Unless you have magic mud??
> 
> How damps your environment, Do you get much rain, Is your humidity very high?


Caz do u tape...wait dry....fill recess....wait dry or are u saying tape fill reccess same time with 7 inch ?


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> Do you think Swedish/Danish standard are poor? I learned from old painter...


 I draw conclusions based on outcome...that's why I need the pics before and after paint with 500 w lights next to the joint


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

embella plaster said:


> Caz do u tape...wait dry....fill recess....wait dry or are u saying tape fill reccess same time with 7 inch ?


Actually it all just depends on the job mate. If it was a bigger whole house I would tape, try and let dry best I can then 7 box to fill recess and so on. But smaller stuff you have to do whatever it takes. Prob sounds crazy but you would need to understand my environment here at certain times of the year. Delayed shrinkage can be so bad.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Also the pre fill. Can't forget that.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Right now I'm working for a company that has 90 painters, none of them except the one that I usually work with finish joints after 2 times. The rest spackles thus joints 3 times. The company that I worked previously on only had older and very experienced painters, where I started my career and they learned to properly finish joints after 2 times no matter what it was of surface materials.

Right now I'm on a building site but do not have access to some drywall where I can show how I do. I'll see if I can find any surface and I'll shoot a video. That, I think, and it seems that we have significantly thicker fillers here in Sweden than what you have in US.

The filler I use both tape and finish, by hand or spray: http://www.beckers.se/proffs/produkter/inomhusprodukter/spackel-fog/breplasta-rs

Everyone else in the company is using this for tape: http://www.beckers.se/proffs/produkter/inomhusprodukter/spackel-fog/breplasta-j

The second and third layers: http://www.beckers.se/proffs/produkter/inomhusprodukter/spackel-fog/scotte-lh-spackel

The last link to LH filler is a filler that is quite heavy to work with and absolutely no problem filling a drywall seam of only one layer on top of tape. The problem with the other painters of the company is that they scrape of to much instead of putting down the knife more against the wall and do not deduct anything. Additionally, ensure that the tape is not visible through the putty and then it will be a perfect filling. I think I can be at around 12-14 "in width when I spackles by hand. Yes, 18 cm roller, 2 in width will be approximately 14".

If I have to fill some really deep holes, I use this: http://www.ardex.se/produkter/vaeggspackel.htm?product=ardex_a_828&key=9

I use it also for smaller jobs so I can tape, finish, sand and paint on the same day.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

I can film tomorrow so you can see how thick are filler are and that one I normally use.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I can't believe you all are entertaining this THE guy. phishing......................


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

I get absolutely nothing out of this and have nothing to prove. I have been in the US(many times, different places), have you been in Sweden? Can say that we, in Sweden and Nordic countries, have much higher standards and building regulations.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

THE said:


> I get absolutely nothing out of this and have nothing to prove. I have been in the US(many times, different places), have you been in Sweden? Can say that we, in Sweden and Nordic countries, have much higher standards and building regulations.


I'm sure you do...........


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Please enlighten us by giving us photos of your work, at each stage of the process. For I too would like to be "one of the best".


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Back to my question about flat box. Must previous mud dried properly, or can you run an additional layer mud with the box?

I can, no matter that you can not. But, if I can level out and finish a joint by hand in two layers, had you still used a flat box? Is it still in time much faster or equivalent? I use roller or spray application of mud.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

THE said:


> Back to my question about flat box. Must previous mud dried properly, or can you run an additional layer mud with the box?
> 
> I can, no matter that you can not. But, if I can level out and finish a joint by hand in two layers, had you still used a flat box? Is it still in time much faster or equivalent? I use roller or spray application of mud.


You can do whatever you like. But since most joint compounds shrink with drying, to some extent, and since often subsequent coats fill in the shrunken mud and try to bring things flat again, it is not really useful to coat over the top of compound until it has a chance to dry. I really don't know what is meant by rolled and sprayed compound. So I can't say what is better. But I can imagine that any compound which is loose enough to be rolled or sprayed must have a lot of water in it, and thus will shrink even more. I don't know how one screeds the rolled on mud to leave it flat in the first place.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Thanks for your reply. It seems that your mud (in US) dries much faster than ours. Our take at least seven hours to dry and no problem to wash out machines or hand tools if it has dried. The mud I have available that dries between 5-60 minutes is gypsum based and becomes like concrete when it dried. Would never dare drive it in my flat boxes, and doomed to fail once it has begun to dry in the machine and then it's really hard to get it clean.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Time for mud to dry depends on environmental conditions. Same mud could dry in 7 hrs or 7 days. Then it's going to continue for a while after that. Hence delayed shrinkage and doing multiple coats to try and prevent it.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

And just becouse muds set that does not mean it's dry.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Please do not take any offence u must understand in theory we hear swedish standards are very high like germany but from what u sre saying we are all skeptical go on my you tube channel and look at my walk throughs and tell me if your 2 coats come up as good as mine i want to see your work on film with a 500wat halogen against it the proof in pudding i love hearing other opinions :thumbup:


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

You tube embella plaster works


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

embella plaster said:


> Please do not take any offence u must understand in theory we hear swedish standards are very high like germany


I'm from EU and I know for sure this guy talks chit .... he's got the same material over there like here.....check Knauf for eg, he complains about thick mud but uses roll or spray, he works for a company with 90 employees but doesn't have access to drywall to take a pic or a video of his high quality work ......and about high German standards we all know Volkswagen story.....


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> high German standards we all know Volkswagen story.....


Also know as hitlers revenge


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

I would still like to see photos of this roll on and spray on drywall finishing mud. It intrigues me. Our compound is spread by mechanical machine or blade.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> I would still like to see photos of this roll on and spray on drywall finishing mud. It intrigues me. Our compound is spread by mechanical machine or blade.


Its bollocks. Rolling mud over a seam and boxing it off is a lot more work than just regular boxing it.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

cazna said:


> Its bollocks. Rolling mud over a seam and boxing it off is a lot more work than just regular boxing it.


It actually sounds messy as hell i want prooof proof prooof


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> Its bollocks. Rolling mud over a seam and boxing it off is a lot more work than just regular boxing it.


I haven't even thought this is possible until this thread


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> I haven't even thought this is possible until this thread


 I have rolled and troweled for a level five finish, I don't think what he's saying is possible, Rolling thick mud the roller just skids, Its an ar$e to push about and hard work, Imagine the mess trying to run a box through that, And what sloppy mess is then left each side of the box, I think this guys yanking our chain.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

cazna said:


> Its bollocks. Rolling mud over a seam and boxing it off is a lot more work than just regular boxing it.


Is that what he is talking about? I couldn't picture what he meant.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> Is that what he is talking about? I couldn't picture what he meant.


 Well I think it is, The standards so high maybe I don't understand the nature of the beast?


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

THE said:


> I can film tomorrow so you can see how thick are filler are and that one I normally use.


Did I miss the video?


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I have a funny feeling he is getting $10 every time we show interest in this thread its run its course


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## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

next time I have a ceilling to do, I will try his "reverse boxing", If I understand how its done.. but I guess it will be a 2-man work, one spray and another boxing, so if doesnt dry ?


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Pytlik said:


> next time I have a ceilling to do, I will try his "reverse boxing", If I understand how its done.. but I guess it will be a 2-man work, one spray and another boxing, so if doesnt dry ?


Sounds financially profitable


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Pytlik said:


> next time I have a ceilling to do, I will try his "reverse boxing", If I understand how its done.. but I guess it will be a 2-man work, one spray and another boxing, so if doesnt dry ?


And a third to clean the floor.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Pytlik said:


> next time I have a ceilling to do, I will try his "reverse boxing", If I understand how its done.. but I guess it will be a 2-man work, one spray and another boxing, so if doesnt dry ?


Reverse boxing are great when you don't have a pump or the job is to small and don't want to use and clean the pump. First spray or roll the compound on joints and then scrape with the flat box. Could be that you have to start first halve meter over again because you don't get compound all the way out on the edges. IF 10" flat box, spray 8". 

IF you spray 2 joints then maybe the box is full, either press it out in a bucket or flat box normally on the next two joints.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

endo_alley said:


> And a third to clean the floor.


You do not really understand where the mud is going? The flat box becomes a scoop and all excess mud goes up into the box, never on the outside and on the floor. If you get it on the floor so can you please show it to me because it's never happened to me.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Why wouldn't you use a conventional broad knife or trowel? An interesting system might even be to screed the mud flat with a small feather edge. Cut a feather edge darby down to 14" and you might come up with an interesting system. You know you would be leaving the mud dead flat, at least until it dries.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I am not falling for this thread. Lmao


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I like my box the way it is now lol


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

embella plaster said:


> I like my box the way it is now lol


Exactly. Whenever someone says they have a unique but unorthodox way of doing things I will sometimes lend them an ear. Maybe they are onto something worthwhile. But I just don't see that in this case. If a job is big enough I will use the flat boxes. Say 50 sheets or more. If it is smaller I would use conventional broad knives. But if I follow the system being described, it is to spray or spread mud, and use a flat box to screed it off. I don't see how spreading by hand could be faster than spreading with a box. Or how a flat box will screed the mud better than a tool designed for that purpose. probably too much time spent on this subject.


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## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

THE said:


> Reverse boxing are great when you don't have a pump or the job is to small and don't want to use and clean the pump. First spray or roll the compound on joints and then scrape with the flat box. Could be that you have to start first halve meter over again because you don't get compound all the way out on the edges. IF 10" flat box, spray 8".
> 
> IF you spray 2 joints then maybe the box is full, either press it out in a bucket or flat box normally on the next two joints.



But if you use the box "normally" when filled, why not just fill the box with the sprayer ? 

But I will still give it a go, always funny to try something other


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

If the job is small. Fill the box with a 6 inch knife, box the joint then wash the box. No roller to wash, no pump to clean, no floors to scrape. Aint nobody got time for all that other crap. If it aint broke don't fix it.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

You must understand my situation and ignore yours. If I had been working in the US, I would have done exactly the same thing as you.

If you find a painter here in Sweden using a flat box, it's like winning the lottery. You will not find any. I'm the only one who used one and none of in my firm has even seen one.

1. I think it is too heavy, but I'm going to fix.
2. We have much thicker mud here and really heavily pushing out.
3. If I thins mud then I have to level out again but it might still go faster.
4. I want to use the box as it is mechanically and all joints appear to be almost exactly the same. Easy to change a setting if you need more mud.
5. I have run reverse boxing with thick mud, and it works then that the mud only once over a joint. But as I write in the first, I think it is heavy and this makes the box lighter in weight.

Box and handle, empty weighs around 6.6 pounds and that's to heavy for *ME*. With mud in a 10" box that's a possibility it comes close to 8-10 pounds. Everything depends on how long handle you have, the further out from the body makes everything heavier.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

I think I will buy a non-extendable handle, what I have is an extendable shaft from Northstar and it is ridiculously heavy. Anything with carbon fiber.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

THE said:


> I think I will buy a non-extendable handle, what I have is an extendable shaft from Northstar and it is ridiculously heavy. Anything with carbon fiber.


 Tapepro make one out of carbon fibre.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> Box and handle, empty weighs around 6.6 pounds and that's to heavy for *ME*. With mud in a 10" box that's a possibility it comes close to 8-10 pounds. Everything depends on how long handle you have, the further out from the body makes everything heavier.





THE said:


> I think I will buy a non-extendable handle, what I have is an extendable shaft from Northstar and it is ridiculously heavy. Anything with carbon fiber.


If you complain about 8-10 pounds being too heavy for you, you might wanna have a health check up. In this trade the nail bag weighs  8-10 pounds in case you haven't notice - if it's too much, no offense mate change your trade - the sooner the better


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I think he needs a big warm cup of hard the fcuk up......


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Then spray it and wipe with a knife..


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

I still don't get it. If your joint compound comes out of the box very thick, and you don't want to thin it down, how in the world do you spray it? Or roll it? When I think of spraying or rolling, I think of thinner material.


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

embella plaster said:


> I think he needs a big warm cup of hard the fcuk up......


Translate this:
Om du inte har något possitivt och säga, håll käften!


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

keke said:


> If you complain about 8-10 pounds being too heavy for you, you might wanna have a health check up. In this trade the nail bag weighs 8-10 pounds in case you haven't notice - if it's too much, no offense mate change your trade - the sooner the better


Nail bag? If YOU haven't notice, we painters in Sweden don't hang drywall at all, that's carpenters work.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

keke said:


> If you complain about 8-10 pounds being too heavy for you, you might wanna have a health check up. In this trade the nail bag weighs 8-10 pounds in case you haven't notice - if it's too much, no offense mate change your trade - the sooner the better


Yeah like Mr Keke said. Maybe now would be a good time to make a career decision and get into management and away from installation. Drywall is hard work no matter how you slice it. Hell, we eat sandwiches that weigh more than eight pounds. If you don't like that you need a desk job and let others do the heavy lifting. Just suggesting. (All in fun mind you)


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

endo_alley said:


> Yeah like Mr Keke said. Maybe now would be a good time to make a career decision and get into management and away from installation. Drywall is hard work no matter how you slice it. Hell, we eat sandwiches that weigh more than eight pounds. If you don't like that you need a desk job and let others do the heavy lifting. Just suggesting. (All in fun mind you)


Read previous post again, I don't come close hanging drywall, I'm a painter. If you hang drywall, then your not a painter. Painter in Sweden are a high skilled job.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Do you use a 3 inch roller cause a 9 inch gets a little heavy.
I spray then reverse roll with my 18 inch roller


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I like to know how you sand...I use to pole sand before I picked up the heavy festool sanded..lol 
I loved the work out and the burn form pole sanding..


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

One more question. Who brings the heavy compound into the job site. 
Who picks it up and loads the sprayer.
Dose your compound come in a box or bucket and how many pounds is it?


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

Smell of irony. Bye!


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## THE (Apr 21, 2016)

My latest work, black ceiling!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

What ceiling? This is a ceiling give us a pic like this.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I got one


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Hows this caz


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Where is 2buck


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I think that's a 12f ceiling done with no stilts Ice. Looks good. I think that pic I put up was 10 before I 12 boxed it. And elvis (buck) left the building a while back. Had enough of taping all day then talking about it all night. Got into online veurtial pawrn instead. Hope he's keeping well what ever he's upto.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

I have 1 too


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

THE said:


> My latest work, black ceiling!


 if you call that ceiling how do you call this


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

cazna said:


> I think that's a 12f ceiling done with no stilts Ice. Looks good. I think that pic I put up was 10 before I 12 boxed it. And elvis (buck) left the building a while back. Had enough of taping all day then talking about it all night. Got into online veurtial pawrn instead. Hope he's keeping well what ever he's upto.


He checks in occasionally, he logged in a few weeks ago.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

KeKe...I would call that"kicked some ass"


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I didn't know where to put this without starting a new thread , so here is as good a place as any.
On my current job the hangers had to leave a ceiling sheet off in the garage because the trusses were proped up until the brickies finished. I was running the 10 inch box by the time it was ready to be put up. So instead of getting up on my stilts on taping it by hand I set the box on #4 filled the recess, ran the tape in from the floor using my long handled knife beded it in then ran the box again. I know that it is very unorthodox, but is there anything that you have done in a different manner that turned out ok?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Missed a big long corner tape in a garage once on tape coat. Ceiling to wall tape. So I was second coating with tube internal head and flusher. Had no corner roller so I just ran a mud bead. Smoothed it out a little with flusher and put some tape in. Pushed it in with flushet


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Dam it. Screwed that last one up and this phone app won't allow you to go back and edit. So I pushed tape in with flusher and added some more mud and flushed again. I though it would take forever to dry and tape would distort but next day it was fine so finished it off.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Did you say mud bead


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> Did you say mud bead


 You got just a little bit turned on didn't you.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

You know it...I did a reverse bead the other day


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