# Trim-Tex low profile bead review



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)




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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Got to play with some of the sample beads sent to me to test out.

Thought I would try using the spray glue, since the beads were 90 degree. Normally, when ever I/we use vinyl bead, it's more for the fancy stuff, like bullnose, flat stock, arch ways etc. I find with the spray glue you get it all over the place (hence red circle in one pic) ,and I'm still rubbing the glue off my fingers. I will admit it's bloody fast installing bullnose bead with the glue and roller if it's standard straight up and down bead like eights or nines. But you constantly end up cleaning glue off the bullnose, and walls.

Unfortunately for me the house is all bullnose (but good for Joe from Trim-tex $$$$:whistling2,so I could only test some of the bead out in the garage. When dealing with intricate cuts and detailed work, I found it was way more faster using mud. You can twist, pull, adjust, bend, manipulate the bead any way you want. Then when you half coat it, you know for sure if it's on square or not. Found the glue not as good when doing intricate stuff. More time consuming and messing.

So now I'm set up to see how well the Low Profile bead will 2 coat, 3 coat or 2.5 coat. Will keep everyone posted.

Foot note :: I use tapepro compound tube, with can-am bead applicator and the tapepro-trim-tex bead roller,,,,, in case someone were to ask.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Got to play with some of the sample beads sent to me to test out.
> 
> Thought I would try using the spray glue, since the beads were 90 degree. Normally, when ever I/we use vinyl bead, it's more for the fancy stuff, like bullnose, flat stock, arch ways etc. I find with the spray glue you get it all over the place (hence red circle in one pic) ,and I'm still rubbing the glue off my fingers. I will admit it's bloody fast installing bullnose bead with the glue and roller if it's standard straight up and down bead like eights or nines. But you constantly end up cleaning glue off the bullnose, and walls.
> 
> ...


i ripped off a peace I glued on the other day...it took the paper off


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> i ripped off a peace I glued on the other day...it took the paper off


I have my experiment all set up for tomorrow

Tomorrow will be "HAMMER TIME"


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Something I did today that was really stupid,,,, but it might of worked

I always have to buy white glue to put in my mud when doing bullnose bead. The DWC does supply the spray on glue, but as I said in the above post, I don't like using it. So I was hunting and hunting in my Van for the white glue, but I could not find it. Then a brain storm came over me, what if I could mix the spray glue into the mud.

So I put a small amount of water into a coffee cup, then sprayed the glue for a good 20 seconds into it. Then I pan mixed it into a scoop of mud. It mixed in really good.

I still didn't trust it, so I let it sit well I went for lunch. When I came back, it didn't go all lumpy or clumpy. So I mixed up a bigger pan mix, and tossed it into a bucket of mud. I will know for sure tomorrow when I whack my experiment with a hammer.

I wouldn't have to do this if my stupid supply house would supply Mad max, like I keep asking them to do. But since the DWC does supply the spray glue, and if it happens to work,,,,, then no more buying white glue out of my own pocket:thumbup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

trim-tex glue with ff ...I could not pull it apart


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Got to play with some of the sample beads sent to me to test out.
> 
> Thought I would try using the spray glue, since the beads were 90 degree. Normally, when ever I/we use vinyl bead, it's more for the fancy stuff, like bullnose, flat stock, arch ways etc. I find with the spray glue you get it all over the place (hence red circle in one pic) ,and I'm still rubbing the glue off my fingers. I will admit it's bloody fast installing bullnose bead with the glue and roller if it's standard straight up and down bead like eights or nines. But you constantly end up cleaning glue off the bullnose, and walls.
> 
> ...



this works for clean up ....I had the same mess. It also cleans glue off the bull


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Ummmm.....2buck? What the hell?! 
You realize mudset beads are supposed to be installed with mud right?! 
Not spray adhesive....
That's why they are called mudset beads....to be "set" in place with "mud"..

Using spray on mudset beads will actually be weaker than your standard trim-tex vinyl corner. Because your bead has way less contact with the glue! Typically, regular trim-tex beads would sit flat on the face of the drywall or spray, so there's lots of contact to bond!

But with Mudset beads, the bead is elevated due to the mudlegs.







So your spray adhesive is barely catching any of the bead! Im surprised it even held on well enough to mud.

But ya, just a little side note before you go ahead and start smashing those test samples. Installing them properly might help.

Mix your glue into your mud before applying the bead. That's what holds it to the wall. Not after. You can mix glue into the mud after as well...it might help for the 1st coat, the mud can sink into the bead as it dries, but most of the strength will be gained from applying the mudset bead with glue in the mud.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

What you're doing here is like filling a diesel truck with regular gasoline....
The results just won't be the same...


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Ummmm.....2buck? What the hell?!
> You realize mudset beads are supposed to be installed with mud right?!
> Not spray adhesive....
> That's why they are called mudset beads....to be "set" in place with "mud"..
> ...


Uhhhmmm

One do you even know how to read, and 2, I don't need lessons from you on how to install bead

It's not mud set bead I'm using, the type of bead you have pictured in your post. It's the new LOWER profile bead that joe sent me to test. The nose is smaller and there's no little fingers on the bead either.

Didn't Joe send you a box to test:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> But ya, just a little side note before you go ahead and start smashing those test samples. Installing them properly might help.


As for my little experiment.

Yeah I was saying in my above post I was going to smash them with a hammer, But you and Joe have done Videos on that already. I was looking to how hard they would be to pull off by hand. But I did end up smashing them, b/c I needed that piece of drywall under my experiment, cause the rockers forgot to return a archway:blink:

Only posting pic of vinyl bead with the glue used, it performed very well. The paper came off the rock when I pulled on it. I had one vinyl bead with AP mud, half coated, and the other with my dumb experiment with spray on glue mixed in the mud, also installed and half coated with glue. The one with the glue performed a bit better, but not by much....... Down the road I will try spray glue vs mud max,,,, But until my supply guy stocks it, like I've bugged him to do,,,,well:furious:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Uhhhmmm
> 
> One do you even know how to read, and 2, I don't need lessons from you on how to install bead
> 
> ...


Well at least I was trying to be polite....
I don't think you realize how much I work with Trim-Tex products. I can tell that's a mudset bead just by looking at it! Even if you tell me it's not, I can tell you with 100% certainty that it is.

So suck it up buttercup! You made a mistake bucko.
No big deal. It happens. Just wanted to educate you a bit.

Last chance....
Just let me know when you're ready for me to prove it to you.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

looks like ms to me:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Well at least I was trying to be polite....
> I don't think you realize how much I work with Trim-Tex. I can tell that's a mudset bead just by looking at it! Even if you tell me it's not, I can tell you with 100% certainty that it is.
> 
> So suck it up buttercup! You made a mistake bucko.
> ...


Here you go Honey cakes:thumbup:

From butter cup to you


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Here you go Honey cakes:thumbup:
> 
> From butter cup to you


Idiot.....
What does that look like to you!?!?!?
Look closer! Put your damn glasses on!
I didn't even have to prove it to you. 
You proved it to me!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Idiot.....
> What does that look like to you!?!?!?
> Look closer! Put your damn glasses on!
> I didn't even have to prove it to you.
> ...


what did you just call me:furious::furious::furious::furious::furious:


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

:yes::jester: Blame it on the glue 2buck. That toxic sh1t can do weird things.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Beings it is a new product you are testing maybe Im wrong... but all the small holes and not flat on the inner legs makes me wonder if it were a mudset.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

I've tried it both ways on that. Mud is definitely the way to go.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> what did you just call me:furious::furious::furious::furious::furious:


It's called a low-profile bead!!
The only reason trim-tex needed to make a lower profile bead is for the mudset!
Because guys were complaining that it sat too high!
Because of the mudlegs!
Which are exactly 3 paper thickness'. Standard paper thickness is 0.1mm. So a total thickness of 0.3mm's. 

That's how small the mudlegs are and why your blind ass couldn't tell they were mudset!
That's why guys are complaining, saying the mud bump is too much to fill. But in fact, it's not the mud bump at all. It's the mudlegs, their mud bump never changed size. The bead just sat higher off the wall because of the mudlegs, which gave it the appearance that the mud bump was bigger. Hency why they created a low profile mudset bead.
Trim-Tex has no need for a low profile regular bead.
Only mudset low profiles.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Look at the difference between these 2 beads.
Mudset








Rigid








These are the 2 original versions. Not the new low profile.

See the difference in the hole spacing between the two!?
That's because the top one is mudset.
That's how I could tell it was a mudset bead you were using.

And there's no need for a low profile rigid bead, it sits flatter to the wall just like all trim-tex beads have forever! The mud bump never changed on any of the beads.
It's just when mudset was created, it sat higher than guys were used too because of the 0.3mm mudlegs. Thus why they had to reduce the mud bump to compensate for the added height of the mudlegs.
Therefore creating the new "Low-profile" Mudset bead.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> It's called a low-profile bead!!
> The only reason trim-tex needed to make a lower profile bead is for the mudset!
> Because guys were complaining that it sat too high!
> Because of the mudlegs!
> ...


I couldn't really care what you have to say, if your working or representing Trim-Tex, and you call potential customer(s) a idiot.

Well do I need to say any more:whistling2:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> I couldn't really care what you have to say, if your working or representing Trim-Tex, and you call potential customer(s) a idiot.
> 
> Well do I need to say any more:whistling2:


You misunderstood me.
I never meant to say I represent or work for trim-tex.
Simply meant, I don't think you understand how much I work with their products.

And really? You're gonna play that card?
Relax princess. You've called me much worse.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

PT is right 2buck, they are mudset beads. To prove it to yourself get two pieces of bead like this pic. If it is mudset (and it is) the little legs will interlock and you wont be able to pull them apart.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> PT is right 2buck, they are mudset beads. To prove it to yourself get two pieces of bead like this pic. If it is mudset (and it is) the little legs will interlock and you wont be able to pull them apart.


Moose boy is right about something


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Moose boy is right about something


Holy Sh!t eh!? :blink:


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

Lol welcome back PT it's been awhile. You come back and really stir things up lol I love it. 

2buck how did you like the lower profile mudset. Or should I ask when Installed with mud instead of glue lol JK


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> what did you just call me:furious::furious::furious:


Ummmm......I think it was bucko, buttercup, princess, and one other one....what was it now







........Oh thats right.........Idiot!


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

....Hey 2buck, PT is back and all grown up and has teeth!!:thumbup:

And ........... waiting for round two:whistling2:


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Psst, 2buck, say something about fibafuse or niche bead or machine mud.......:yes:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Ive been using mud set this week too


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I'd be very curious to see/try the lower profile mudset bead, because I absolutely detested the original. I like the idea of a bomber corner, but not at the expense of having to coat my bead with an eleventy inch trowel to get it "flat".


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Toontowntaper said:


> Lol welcome back PT it's been awhile. You come back and really stir things up lol I love it.
> 
> 2buck how did you like the lower profile mudset. Or should I ask when Installed with mud instead of glue lol JK


Actually, the problem with my little experiment is, the beads installed with the mud did not perform as well as the Spray glued bead.

The way it works with the DWC I work for is, with the other 40 tapers in the company, if it's paper bead they use mud, if it's vinyl they use spray glue. It was hard enough to get all of the tapers to switch from metal to paper bead, if you told them to switch from paper to vinyl, and they couldn't use the glue. Then they may not be too keen on switching.

If I had to explain to a taper at work that this type of vinyl bead has to be installed with mud, and this other type with glue, I'm going to get a lot of WTF's,,,,,, Most tapers are cry baby's, and hate change,,,so.....

Then with large DWC's, they like to keep their taping supplies Universal, since their always changing their mind as to which house they send a taper. So if I get sent to a house where another taper was intended to do it. There could be metal bead, a brand of mud I hate, and a 45 fastener I hate. First thing I do is get on the phone to change the material order. That cost the company time and money.

The rules of K.I.S.S may of been broken here, if a taper has to go"which type of vinyl bead is this, the mud or glue type."


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Hey 2buck ! When I worked in Southern Ontario for DWC's like yours, they always had someone install vinyl for the tapers to avoid problems. Especially the bullnose on fancy mantels and fireplace units. Do they still do this ?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> Hey 2buck ! When I worked in Southern Ontario for DWC's like yours, they always had someone install vinyl for the tapers to avoid problems. Especially the bullnose on fancy mantels and fireplace units. Do they still do this ?


More so up in the GTA area (Toronto), at least that's what they were doing when I was there 12 years ago. If it was metal bead (shacks) the rocker installed it, if a highrise they had a taper install paper bead. (b/c of the steel stud). Makes a huge difference in pay/production when you don't half to install. And on a side note, we had to fill in one time for the bead guy who went on holidays. He used a bead box then wiped by hand. Then we came along with the compound tube, applicator, roller and a wet mop to wipe them down. It was the one and only time we were told to slow down. (guess we would of cost the guy his job, or rate of pay at minimum).

519 area (london) no matter what type of bead, metal, vinyl, paper, the taper installs (and it was for free 5 years ago). I can only think of one job (student residence) where the bead was installed for us. The DWC was installing metal on steel stud, which would of meant us tapers buying a screw gun. So they hired a guy to do it for us, then tried to lower our PW rate for having the bead installed.

DWC are so cheap:furious:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Moose boy is right about something


 You got schooled old man!!!!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> You got schooled old man!!!!


Oh I don't know about that, I took a picture of my evidence today

That mud set bead still stuck on REAL good with the spray on glue:thumbup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh I don't know about that, I took a picture of my evidence today
> 
> That mud set bead still stuck on REAL good with the spray on glue:thumbup:


did you staple it ?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> did you staple it ?


Nope.

Using staples is over kill IMO

If I'm installing Trim-Tex bullnose bead using mud, the only place I might put a fastener (nail/screw/staple) is at the bottom of the bead. Because of the power cords and air hoses that may catch at the bottom of the bead and pull them off when tradesmen tug on their cords . Anyone that deals with paper bead knows if you want to knock it off, swing a hammer at it from the backside (displayed in pic below). One properly placed shot can send it flying off:thumbup:

If your installing Trim-tex bead Icerock, with glue, and you see it's pulling the paper off when tugging on it, will stapes make that big of a difference.

Fasteners will help hold a bead on a bit, if taking a hit like I show in my pic. But I don't care what type of bead your dealing with, hits from behind will do the most damage. Hits to the nose of the bead will adsorb a impact better.

Chit is going to happen when it comes to corner bead getting hit or whacked, what are you going to do, stand around and guard your bead with a shot gun (do you own guns icerock). It's expansion, shrinkage,movement, settling of a building which should be more of a concern, and staples wont help with that.

Now a question for you Icerock:thumbup:

Which type of Trim-tex bead are you installing with the spray glue, regular trim-tex or mudset? You seem to be happy with the performance of it


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i don't see how adding wimpy little staples into just drywall will do anything compared to what the glue is already doing. i think trimtex must have a large investment in a staple company or something.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

carpentaper said:


> i don't see how adding wimpy little staples into just drywall will do anything compared to what the glue is already doing. i think trimtex must have a large investment in a staple company or something.


Glue doesn't always set-up right away.
Some guys are inexperienced with it and spray it thicker in some spots and it takes longer to dry in those areas. Not to mention there sometimes might be highs and lows that require a few staples.
Staples help the bead keep proper contact to the drywall until the glue has properly cured holding it firmly into position.
It's more of a precaution than anything.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Glue doesn't always set-up right away.
> Some guys are inexperienced with it and spray it thicker in some spots and it takes longer to dry in those areas. Not to mention there sometimes might be highs and lows that require a few staples.
> Staples help the bead keep proper contact to the drywall until the glue has properly cured holding it firmly into position.
> It's more of a precaution than anything.


dont want to say it but yes you need to to!!!! do it right..or your test is no good


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

2 buck....your the best:yes:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Glue doesn't always set-up right away.
> Some guys are inexperienced with it and spray it thicker in some spots and it takes longer to dry in those areas. Not to mention there sometimes might be highs and lows that require a few staples.
> Staples help the bead keep proper contact to the drywall until the glue has properly cured holding it firmly into position.
> It's more of a precaution than anything.


in my opinion the best way to install the beads with glue is the following:
1 spray the bead, spray the wall
2 put the bead on for 5 sec and take it off, in this way you leave the glue to set up
3 after 1-2 min put it back on and do whatever you need to do (laser up or level up)


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Adding staples to TTex beads is the proper way to do it along with the spray glue. If you want to sit and hold every piece til the glue dries then go for it I stapel mine off and move on to the next knowing for certain my bead is set on just right and it aint going anywhere. Even with MS beads I will put a smart nail or 2 just to guarantee a good install. Skipping on stapels with glue on Tex is halfass IMO


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

.... Do any of you nub nuts remember what it was like to wrap an arch way before vinyl ? Before TT'S fast caps? 

It was snip.snip.snip.snip,snip.snip.snip,snip on a shiny 90.. And then ya had to float out any crinks ...And you boys are bitchin about a few staples /messy glue ?  

I've never had a problem with the TT glue being messy. 
All I can say Is ....THANK GOD FOR VINYL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If I half to stand there for a few seconds and wait for the glue to bond ...I don't mind!!


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Amen, bro!


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

> THANK GOD FOR VINYL


And Latex.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

chris said:


> Adding staples to TTex beads is the proper way to do it along with the spray glue. If you want to sit and hold every piece til the glue dries then go for it I stapel mine off and move on to the next knowing for certain my bead is set on just right and it aint going anywhere. Even with MS beads I will put a smart nail or 2 just to guarantee a good install. Skipping on stapels with glue on Tex is halfass IMO


why do I have to pay both for staples and glue when either one does the job perfectly fine on its own.if I do all the preps before (cut and glue the beads) then all I need to do is stick them on the wall and I think they're strong enough-check post #37


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## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

I vote for metal corners  and I prefer walking to work..... NOT

maybe its time to try TT breads and the glue..


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

keke said:


> why do I have to pay both for staples and glue when either one does the job perfectly fine on its own.if I do all the preps before (cut and glue the beads) then all I need to do is stick them on the wall and I think they're strong enough-check post #37


 When installing cornerbeads I always notice that where the corner goes over the flat that it doesnt make good contact with the sheetrock ( because of the recess) so I will staple there and I will always staple top and bottoms as well. I maybe spend 100 dollars at most all year for staples


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

chris said:


> When installing cornerbeads I always notice that where the corner goes over the flat that it doesnt make good contact with the sheetrock ( because of the recess) so I will staple there and I will always staple top and bottoms as well. I maybe spend 100 dollars at most all year for staples


Back in the spring I was working down the street from a another poor bastard like myself...One Sunday evening [no one was around] I dropped by to see what his work looked like.. His finish looked nice to me ..I didn't throw a light on it :whistling2:..But I was impressed .. The house was chopped all to hell 270 boards at least . 8 square coffer in the dining room,3 step tray in the master b/r ,cathedral over from foyer to the kitchen with the upstairs landing running through the middle..OK..Yeah. What i'm getting at is the house was taped/blocked and skimmed . ready for sand as far as I could tell,,but He had not put the bull nose on yet..or the no-coat! Made sense to me:yes: I'd never seen it done that way . He also had a bucket of green water on his mixing station..With a bottle of Gain next to it. :blink:..That I gotta try!!


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

moore said:


> Back in the spring I was working down the street from a another poor bastard like myself...One Sunday evening [no one was around] I dropped by to see what his work looked like.. His finish looked nice to me ..I didn't throw a light on it :whistling2:..But I was impressed .. The house was chopped all to hell 270 boards at least . 8 square coffer in the dining room,3 step tray in the master b/r ,cathedral over from foyer to the kitchen with the upstairs landing running through the middle..OK..Yeah. What i'm getting at is the house was taped/blocked and skimmed . ready for sand as far as I could tell,,but He had not put the bull nose on yet..or the no-coat! Made sense to me:yes: I'd never seen it done that way . He also had a bucket of green water on his mixing station..With a bottle of Gain next to it. :blink:..That I gotta try!!


I three coat my flats and don't usually start my beads until the second coat.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> Back in the spring I was working down the street from a another poor bastard like myself...One Sunday evening [no one was around] I dropped by to see what his work looked like.. His finish looked nice to me ..I didn't throw a light on it :whistling2:..But I was impressed .. The house was chopped all to hell 270 boards at least . 8 square coffer in the dining room,3 step tray in the master b/r ,cathedral over from foyer to the kitchen with the upstairs landing running through the middle..OK..Yeah. What i'm getting at is the house was taped/blocked and skimmed . ready for sand as far as I could tell,,but He had not put the bull nose on yet..or the no-coat! Made sense to me:yes: I'd never seen it done that way . He also had a bucket of green water on his mixing station..With a bottle of Gain next to it. :blink:..That I gotta try!!


That sounds like it would suck....
You'd be so close to being done...but not really! lol.
But cool concept though! You know they'd sit flat.

But ya, I've heard of guys taping all of their corners first with a flusher or what not, then the next day just completely finish them, run the 2nd coat with your angle head and your angles are done, then they'd tape out the rest of the house and finish it. All kinds of different styles out there.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

keke said:


> why do I have to pay both for staples and glue when either one does the job perfectly fine on its own.if I do all the preps before (cut and glue the beads) then all I need to do is stick them on the wall and I think they're strong enough-check post #37


Team 2buck and keke:thumbup:

To start, we know which bead will take the better direct hit to the nose, it goes in the order of vinyl, paper then metal. But in the order of cost, at least where I live, the order of cost for a 8' bead is metal one buck, paper 2 bucks, well vinyl is around 3 bucks. Then there's the headaches of being called back to repair/fix bead (post order or punch out list) Metal bead is out right horrible, but you could debate pro's and cons of paper vs vinyl (could be a whole other thread).

Then it can also depend on weather your the actual drywall contractor or sub-trade as to which bead you shall use. As the sub, sometimes you have to put up and shut up about what you get stuck using. Well as the DWC you have to deal with clients that are cheap, cheap ,cheap, so the culture can vary

Were going to debate the install..........

Metal bead with a crimper is bloody fast, but the 1980's are long gone. Most times metal bead is installed with hammer and nails, screws if on steel stud. It's time consuming to install, unless you want to invest in some type of nail or staple gun, along with a air compressor. But lets face it, metal bead is a dinosaur.

Paper bead is fast to install, using a compound tube, bead applicator and roller. apply mud, roll, scrap off excess mud or half coat right away. You have the option weather to add more glue to your mud to make it bond better also. Then there's the bead box, and installing by hand also.

Vinyl bead we have 2 options, Mud or spray glue.
I prefer using mud, it's the exact same install as paper bead (fast), except it's a better idea to add some mud max or white glue to your mud on the install. Plus your sorta forced to half coat it too. I find it's better to half coat it right away any how, your dealing with mud with extra glue in it, and it aids in hiding the holes in the bead with subsequent coats down the road.

Then all this typing brings us to vinyl installed with spray glue......

I always went 4 or 5 beads a head, and sprayed the walls, then I came back to the first wall I sprayed, sprayed a bead, then ROLLED on the bead with a bead roller. The glue sprayed on the wall would tack up a bit if allowed to stand, well the glue sprayed on the bead would give you 30 seconds or so to allow you to adjust your bead. But with all this talk of stapling the [email protected] out of the vinyl bead, would METAL bead not be the faster one to install then

So as a foot note, I use to keep a hand staple gun around when installing paper or vinyl bead when using mud. There was always something that may shift or move, or you maybe wanted to keep something lined up. But now I use drywall screws:yes:, their for free since the drywallers always drop them. Just tap them in a bit, then twist out the next day (as shown in first pic).

The second pic is the current house I'm in. The red dots are where I put some drywall nails. I will only do this in a high traffic area, where I think a tradesmen's power cord or air hose might pull on my bead. The blue dots are where I would put some nails/screws/staples if a builder were to buy me some coffee:whistling2:, other than that, if someone was going to tell me I have to use some form of fastener to hold on a corner bead(applied every 6 inches), then I will stick to paper bead. No type of fastener will help paper bead stick on better:thumbup:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

moore said:


> Back in the spring I was working down the street from a another poor bastard like myself...One Sunday evening [no one was around] I dropped by to see what his work looked like.. His finish looked nice to me ..I didn't throw a light on it :whistling2:..But I was impressed .. The house was chopped all to hell 270 boards at least . 8 square coffer in the dining room,3 step tray in the master b/r ,cathedral over from foyer to the kitchen with the upstairs landing running through the middle..OK..Yeah. What i'm getting at is the house was taped/blocked and skimmed . ready for sand as far as I could tell,,but He had not put the bull nose on yet..or the no-coat! Made sense to me:yes: I'd never seen it done that way . He also had a bucket of green water on his mixing station..With a bottle of Gain next to it. :blink:..That I gotta try!!


 The last few jobs we have done I have been waiting to tape angles after taped and 2 coats ( bead on and 2 coats also) . I did not like the method when 1rst hearing it but after trying I really like it. Makes angles a breeze and look better overall. I like the fact that the walls and beads are flat before taping angles and eliminates " Heavy mud " coats over angle tape = less angle cracks I dont think waiting on the bead coat would benefit other than an easier install


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

moore said:


> What i'm getting at is the house was taped/blocked and skimmed . ready for sand as far as I could tell,,but He had not put the bull nose on yet..or the no-coat!


I know it's new for you but this is my way.....that's how you avoid overbuilding the beads :yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

....


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

....


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Well Mr Buck! There is not much of a review going on with the low profile beads going on here!!!!:whistling2:
Not sure if its the same beads that Joe sent me!!
But if it is they r good as i used them in my dads house!:thumbsup:


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

to quiet  hopefully it's 2Buck is so impressed with the ease of installation and the durability of our beads that HE IS SPEECHLESS :whistling2:

The reality is: I never asked 2 Buck 90 or Bullnose. My fault:blink:
He has only bullnose work right now and I only sent him 90 low profile Mud Set......I'm a 

I will send him our MS Bull ASAP


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Trim-Tex said:


> to quiet , hopefully it's 2Buck is so impressed with the ease of installation and the durability of our beads that HE IS SPEECHLESS
> 
> The reality is: I never asked 2 Buck 90 or Bullnose. My fault
> He has only bullnose work right now and I only sent him 90 low profile Mud Set......I'm a
> ...


I, 2buckcanuck, speechless,,,, thats funny









If you really want to send me something, it should be nine foot 90 bead. Odds are my next house will be nine foot high

If you examine my picture below, you will notice there is a mixture of paper and Trim-tex vinyl bead. That's the typical site that over 50 tapers see in the company I work for, when they start a job. All the tapers buy into using vinyl bullnose (though it's not mudset), but they all use paper on the 90 degree........

If you want to conquer the "Evil Paper Bead Empire", a big mouth like me would say to every taper he bumps into,,,"have you tried that new 90 degree mudset bead yet:thumbup:

How would you like to see our future job sites shocked, with a paper vinyl mix,,, or all Trim tex vinyl bead


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Maybe this has already been answered somewhere, but I've been wondering about just how much more 'low profile' the low profile is, as compared to what's been out there for a time. Is it 1/4 lower profile? ......?


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I don't find much difference using the low-profile vs the old stuff. It still installs slow, and it's a b**** to miter. Not that I can't do it, it's just not very productive on complex installation.
and yes I have been using the tt bead roller. I'll just keep trying it on other jobs to see if there's much difference.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Thanks, Bevelation. So how slow is 'slow', as compared to what you're used to - paper/metal?


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I'm just forced to having to be more careful when I am doing technical stuff. Maybe I am more used to doing paper bead installation. The framing isn't great on a lot of these jobs I do, so sometimes I have to put screws into the bead flange because the flange lifts on corners that are under 90.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> I don't find much difference using the low-profile vs the old stuff. It still installs slow, and it's a b**** to miter. Not that I can't do it, it's just not very productive on complex installation.
> and yes I have been using the tt bead roller. I'll just keep trying it on other jobs to see if there's much difference.


It's me !!!! , who made the mistake with the title of the thread, stating the term low profile bead. I have kept stating on this site that trim tex should make a lower profile bead (smaller nose). I thought somebody actually listened to me for a change

I will probably stick my foot in my mouth here again but,,,,, it's in the name with this new bead, it's called "mudset"

This bead is specially designed to be installed with mud only. Well previous bead was meant to be installed with spray glue, staples, or mud with some mud max or white glue added.

So any system you use to install paper bead (by hand, bead box, or compound tube), you can use on the Mudset bead. Plus no need for fasteners either.:thumbsup:

I do get what your saying with the miters though, I have only got to play with a few sticks so far. (been stuck on bullnose lately). I did realize you have to re-think how you cut them, compared to paper bead.

And with the bead roller.......

Yes the roller will set the bead in tighter, and adjust them into place for you. but where I find where guys will go wrong is,,,, their thought process is you still have to wipe the bead down after you roll. The bead roller actually "wipes" the bead on for you. So right after you "roll" you have the option to coat right away, scrap excess mud off, or damp sponge the mud off.:yes:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I, 2buckcanuck, speechless,,,, thats funny
> 
> 
> 
> ...


put that paper **** in the dumpster 2buck....that stuff is crap!!!


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