# New angle head problem, need advice please.



## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

I tried to use my new 2.5 angle head today and had a problem right away. I apply mud to the corner with my can-am tube, then apply tape, then roll out corner and then flush. When I tried to flush the corner with the new head it would bind up and then tear the paper from the drywall. It doesn't want to glide over the drywall for some reason. I've tried different pressures and that didn't help. Don't know what I am doing wrong. It's been 25 years or so since I used this type of head so maybe I am forgetting something? Photos of angle head below.

View attachment 22513


View attachment 22521


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Hi Oldtimer, first things first,,, are you running the bottom (as pictured above) forward into the rolled tape? Thats the direction the head runs. So I guess, technically speaking, your leading edge and trailing edge are mislabeled.
Running it backwards will be a big problem.


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

Lead with the bullet shaped part on the bottom of your pic. The blades on top of your pic provide the finished product. You may be running it backwards.


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

The tape & mud should enter into those half circles and the top blades should follow behind.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

thin you mud lots more, roll out tape till smooth feeling on handle, glide flusher through angle from one end to other without hesitating with same pressure... Bam! You will get it in time....


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

THANKS all for the prompt responses! :thumbup:
I think I was running it upside down 
Guess those 25 years away from these tools did me in 

Thanks again. *You guys are AWESOME!!!* :thumbsup:


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## croozer (Jun 7, 2009)

Yes, you appear to be running it backwards, but also you must be prepared for a "little break-in time". Some new tools have almost microscopic burrs on the blades which just love to grab at the tape. I usually get some 60 grit paper and give them a good dressing. Also, don't apply too much pressure when flushing with the angle heads, just let it glide over and coat the tape. You'll get it, no worries.


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## Level5 (Apr 30, 2013)

Let us know how it goes when you run this again!


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Level5 said:


> Let us know how it goes when you run this again!


Cant ask for more!
Great u r on the ball:thumbsup:


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Level5 said:


> Let us know how it goes when you run this again!


 It did run better using it the right way  It feels a bit stiff so like some mentioned maybe it needs some "break in" time? It is so different from my CanAm flusher heads. I find I was taking too much mud off and if I lightened the pressure on the head it wouldn't flush right. I ended up going back to the CanAm head just for time purposes. Now my question is, will the new angle head coat over top of the CanAm coat when I use the angle box for final coat? The CanAm head is slightly rounded and the new head is more square, so wondering if that will be an issue?

Really appreciate all the help guys :thumbup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Oldtimer said:


> It did run better using it the right way  It feels a bit stiff so like some mentioned maybe it needs some "break in" time? It is so different from my CanAm flusher heads. I find I was taking too much mud off and if I lightened the pressure on the head it wouldn't flush right. I ended up going back to the CanAm head just for time purposes. Now my question is, will the new angle head coat over top of the CanAm coat when I use the angle box for final coat? The CanAm head is slightly rounded and the new head is more square, so wondering if that will be an issue?
> 
> Really appreciate all the help guys :thumbup:


I noticed in the pic that it has 2 springs!
U could try taking 1 out to c if this helps any,Only a 2 min job!
Yes it should run behind the flusher as I have done it before:thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Oldtimer said:


> Now my question is, will the new angle head coat over top of the CanAm coat when I use the angle box for final coat? The CanAm head is slightly rounded and the new head is more square, so wondering if that will be an issue?


Don't recall running that way, but guess you'll find out. If Van says it can be done, then it can be done. Could depend on how much wear your flusher has on its tip, and how hard you're pushing into the corner with your flusher, as well.

2buck was getting really nice results he said with 2 1/2" angle head followed by 3 1/2" flusher for finish coat. He was using a tube instead of an angle box for the 3 1/2", though.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Don't recall running that way, but guess you'll find out. If Van says it can be done, then it can be done. Could depend on how much wear your flusher has on its tip, and how hard you're pushing into the corner with your flusher, as well.
> 
> 2buck was getting really nice results he said with 2 1/2" angle head followed by 3 1/2" flusher for finish coat. He was using a tube instead of an angle box for the 3 1/2", though.


Buck was using a can am internal applicator to add mud with a tube, Then flush it with a 3.5 flusher on a pole.

Oldtimer get yourself a flex edge sander, Those are an orange rectangle sander and get a pack of foam sanding pads, Quickly sand swipe out the corners before you finish coat, This will make life a lot easier.

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Pole-Sanders/Flex-Edge-Drywall-Sander.html


NNNNOOOOOOOO, I just tried to look up the foam sanding pads for the flex edge.............No longer available NNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

cazna said:


> Buck was using a can am internal applicator to add mud with a tube, Then flush it with a 3.5 flusher on a pole.


 That's how I do my internals, as well. Especially on commercial jobs. But I'll use a 3" flusher instead of an angle head for the tape coat then, especially when coming behind a bazooka, and follow after with the 3 1/2".

For residential I'll usually go 3" angle head, followed by 2 1/2" angle head. Larger to smaller size with angle heads, as Columbia suggested angle heads are set up for. At least theirs. Works better for me than smaller to larger. But each to their own.


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

cazna said:


> Buck was using a can am internal applicator to add mud with a tube, Then flush it with a 3.5 flusher on a pole.
> 
> Oldtimer get yourself a flex edge sander, Those are an orange rectangle sander and get a pack of foam sanding pads, Quickly sand swipe out the corners before you finish coat, This will make life a lot easier.
> 
> ...


 Thanks cazna. Being able to use the angle box would certainly save me some time. I always give the angles a light sand before I finish coat them, so hopefully that will be enough to make the angle box and head work  oh..and thanks for the link


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

JustMe said:


> That's how I do my internals, as well. Especially on commercial jobs. But I'll use a 3" flusher instead of an angle head for the tape coat then, especially when coming behind a bazooka, and follow after with the 3 1/2".
> 
> For residential I'll usually go 3" angle head, followed by 2 1/2" angle head. Larger to smaller size with angle heads, as Columbia suggested angle heads are set up for. At least theirs. Works better for me than smaller to larger. But each to their own.


 I was doing a 2.5 anglehead for tape then a 3.5 flusher to finish, Done that for a while now, Sure makes a nice finish but im just getting a little over shoving a flusher.

Got a Columbia anglebox so playing around with that now, Got DM and COL 2.5 and 3.5 angleheads and seem to have the DMs going better Than the COLs, The DMs are a little smaller than so the 2.5 dm is bang on for the mud amount behind the zook, But the 2.5 col is bigger so struggles for mud a little more, Its amazing the difference, Companys make the same tools but have little differences between them which can make running then like chalk and cheese. Even the difference between how they fit on the box, COLs are very very sloppy and slack on there own box but the DMs fit a little tighter and better.



Oldtimer said:


> Thanks cazna. Being able to use the angle box would certainly save me some time. I always give the angles a light sand before I finish coat them, so hopefully that will be enough to make the angle box and head work  oh..and thanks for the link


 Well I couldn't do a flusher first then anglehead last old timer, The flushers a rounded corner, The angleheads pointed so the point just drags the rounded flusher muds and didn't go well for me at all but sand it out clean first and it should be fine but I have had very good results with 2.5 anglehead for taping, Its just a light swipe.

See how different we all do things, Its upto you to try these things out and figure out whats working for you.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

My 3.5 DM head goes just fine over a 3" flusher. My flusher is fairly new, and the angle head has the tip rounded out just a bit.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

2.5 DM head behind the gun no use to me! 2 much mud for it.
I use the 3, So ur right Caz everything and every1 is dif!:thumbsup:
I'm away 2 order a can-am flusher to try!:thumbup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Whats the dif from a Can-am standard 3 flusher and the wide track 3???????????????????????


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Ordered a 3 flusher and a pole that extends:thumbsup:
Better b better than that BTE sh*te!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Ordered a 3 flusher and a pole that extends:thumbsup:
> Better b better than that BTE sh*te!


 I reckon you will like it, Almost bet my left one on it :thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> Whats the dif from a Can-am standard 3 flusher and the wide track 3???????????????????????


Never used a Can-Am that I would call being a 'wide track', but I'd say it's the skids being placed wider apart. Don't know for sure how that might affect how they would handle. Could be better for things like keeping the skids out of wide bevels, but maybe wouldn't track as straight as the 3" ones with the skids placed more narrowly.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> I reckon you will like it, Almost bet my left one on it :thumbsup:


And I will give u my right 1 if so!


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

JustMe said:


> Never used a Can-Am that I would call being a 'wide track', but I'd say it's the skids being placed wider apart. Don't know for sure how that might affect how they would handle. Could be better for things like keeping the skids out of wide bevels, but maybe wouldn't track as straight as the 3" ones with the skids placed more narrowly.


The site I bought from says not available so the standard it is!:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Got them today and yea they look better quality than BTE SH*TE:thumbsup:
But away on hols the morn so play about when I get back:thumbup:


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Is it ok to see some of the tape when flushing with an angle head as long as there is a skim of mud over both sides? If so, will the next coat be enough to cover and finish the angle? Most videos I've watched seem to show the same thing with "some" tape still showing after rolling then flushing for the first time.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

There is a lot of variables in that. From the hang job, framing, thickness of the mud, your roller, and how long you let them sit before glazing

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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

I think you are on the right track, Oldtimer. The angle heads don't leave as much mud as you would coating by hand. If there is a skim over the tape you should be able to finish with one more coat with an angle head. Just be careful not to over sand.


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

The first pic is the result from using the 2.5 inch angle head to do the initial flush after rolling the corner. As you can see I am getting some mud trailers right in the middle of the corner. Not sure why that's happening?

View attachment 23474


The second pic is using my 2 inch CanAm flusher head. As you can see it leaves a more even coat.

View attachment 23482


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Are you collapsing the head all the way? Or letting it float? I only collapse about halfway, and I generally bury the tape. 

With the trailers in the middle, I'm betting that you are collapsing the head all the way. This can cause the tip to open up, leaving a line of mud. 

Soak your head for a few mins, then look at the point as you squeeze the sides. You'll see if it opens up.

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## loudcry184 (Jan 26, 2014)

Oldtimer said:


> The first pic is the result from using the 2.5 inch angle head to do the initial flush after rolling the corner. As you can see I am getting some mud trailers right in the middle of the corner. Not sure why that's happening?
> 
> View attachment 23474
> 
> ...


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Looks to me like you are shoving that head firmly into the angle like a flusher. Just float it. I only push as hard as I have too, to get a consistent glaze.

Pushing too hard on the head can/will cause the blades to separate at the tip.


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

fr8train said:


> Looks to me like you are shoving that head firmly into the angle like a flusher. Just float it. I only push as hard as I have too, to get a consistent glaze.
> 
> Pushing too hard on the head can/will cause the blades to separate at the tip.
> 
> ...


 hmmm..well that's the problem I guess, pushing too hard. Are these angle heads not meant to be used as a "flusher"? When I "float", it does not seem to do much to coat (flush) the corner, so I push. 

Below is a pic of a rolled corner before flushing. Looks like there's plenty of mud there when I use my CanAm flusher but have to push harder when I use the angle head. 

View attachment 23754


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Flusher and heads coat differently. A head is more like a screed. It piles the mud up and shapes it. A flusher coats more like a knife. So a head probably needs more mud. 2.5, 3" head, or 3" flusher we bury the tape. 

The other possibility, your roller may be worn out or not working proper. (Like mine!). I can flush no problem, but the head don't like it. 

Roll out angle and then press it with your finger, you shouldn't be able to squeeze more mud out with your finger! ( I can!)

If that's not the problem, after rolling, put a little more mud on it with your tube, see if that's the issue.

Good luck!

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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Tape is buried! 2.5" head.










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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Oldtimer said:


> hmmm..well that's the problem I guess, pushing too hard. Are these angle heads not meant to be used as a "flusher"? When I "float", it does not seem to do much to coat (flush) the corner, so I push.
> 
> Below is a pic of a rolled corner before flushing. Looks like there's plenty of mud there when I use my CanAm flusher but have to push harder when I use the angle head.
> 
> View attachment 23754


Looks like a bowed wall to me........


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

fr8train said:


> Flusher and heads coat differently. A head is more like a screed. It piles the mud up and shapes it. A flusher coats more like a knife. So a head probably needs more mud. 2.5, 3" head, or 3" flusher we bury the tape.
> 
> The other possibility, your roller may be worn out or not working proper. (Like mine!). I can flush no problem, but the head don't like it.
> 
> ...


 My roller seems fine, it rolls the corner pretty tight so will try an extra bead of mud with tube to see if that works.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

so it going good now old Timer


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## WeDoItAll (Aug 11, 2017)

watch the videos on the accu just flusher


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