# taping with all purpose mud



## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I can't speak for synko, but can you get pro roc mud where you are. I think you can
All purpose is what it says, you can tape,coat and skim with it, It's a middle ground mud. It should be the other way around with what your describing


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.


It shouldnt really cause edges cracks etc, And yes you do need to use the same mud all purpose mud for taping corners with the zooka when going bigger head then smaller, I was doin it that way, but now i have found a much better way which i really like, finally im happy with machine corners :thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> It shouldnt really cause edges cracks etc, And yes you do need to use the same mud all purpose mud for taping corners with the zooka when going bigger head then smaller, I was doin it that way, but now i have found a much better way which i really like, finally im happy with machine corners :thumbsup:


When you go bigger head first does the side blades on the smaller head ever dig into the first coat? I've always had that problem no matter how I adust the blades.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> When you go bigger head first does the side blades on the smaller head ever dig into the first coat? I've always had that problem no matter how I adust the blades.


No i didnt have have that problem with the mud runner as mud flows out of the tool without me having to push it into the corner to get some mud like you have to with an anglebox, The runner just glides on it own mud, the anglebox has weight on the blades and the mud is kinda scraped into the corner with thin runny mud, I never got the hang of the anglebox, i just thought it sucked so got a runner, it just made more sence than an anglebox, Mudrunner mud for me is about zooka mud thickness, to thick and it will stall, to thin and it comes flying out and can make a mess, when you get the mud right there is very little to tidy up and smokin fast, only the corners and bottoms when you get it happening right, It will produce a far superior corner than an anglebox IMO, Full and even with nicly covered tapes, sharp corners and super straight lines. :thumbsup:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I use free-flow AP for taping and texture,, and lite weight for coating.. and it does not bother me to have to order and use 2 different types of mud.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

I Use green lid buckets start to finish for everything...verry seldom do I use anything else.once in a wile I will use brown lid usg...lightweight vls ...green lid is allpurpose:thumbsup:


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

same here use u.s.g. all purpose green lid or mid weight purple lid from start to finish and don't have any problems....never tryed taping mud ect.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

On small jobs I'd use all purpose only and the work turned out fine. I've also used all purpose for taping all my angles because someone on this site said it shrank back less than taping, and turns out it's true. But lately I've stuck with taping mud for taping and filling mud for filling. The size of the job kinda demands it.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.


I've found that Synko yellow IS needed just for the reasons you mentioned. The fact that the Synko (yellow and all purpose) come out of the box like a chunk of cold butter leads us to add quite a bit of water to soften it up for machines. Yellow seems to have more glue in it as advertised and withstands more water than all purpose without degrading its' performance. My advice - stay away from Stynko. ProRoc is much nicer to use. Less water and less elbow grease. But still use yellow taping for security and piece of mind.

Yellow can be used in machines with no problem. And most tapers lay their angle tape with a 2.5" flusher and then finish with a 3". That routine covers the angle completely leaving no yellow mud to sand.

All purpose works all the way through but you must be diligent. I do it many times too !


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

mudslingr said:


> My advice - stay away from Stynko. ProRoc is much nicer to use. Less water and less elbow grease. But still use yellow taping for security and piece of mind.


 YEEAHHHHHHH!!

Proroc yellow creates such a strong bond with the wall, you'll remember never to miss wiping any tapes.  And clean your boogers off the wall before they dry. The mud will delaminate the board paper if you scrape it off.

I think you can use as much water as with Synko muds. The difference I find is that ProRoc will never get as runny. It seems to stand up better when you thin it down so that you'll always have some glue on your tapes.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i think i figured out my problem. i've been doing a lot of smallerjobs and they have all been hung by carpenters so i have been doing a lot of pre fill with confill. i have then been taping over it after it sets but it is not dry. the job i taped out last night i went and coated today and i did not have any problems because i prefilled two nights ago so my prefill had a chance to dry. the only bubbles i got were a couple on the beads probably from using my new corner applicator and not leaving quite enough mud on. no biggie just a little fix. i used to always tape over my wet prefill when i was using taping mud but that was on bigger jobs. i can get proroc but not from anywhere super convinient so i would have to stock up on it every time. the last time i used proroc i was one box short and i went and picked up some synko from rona for touchups and i got really bad ridges from the slightly different consistancies. i had to wait until it was primed and then touch up some stuff. it sucked. proroc blue does seem way harder to sand than synko blue so i would imagine it might have a bit more glue in it.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

USG Green Lid - BOXES @ Lowes - $4.13 exclusively - I bought the last pallet!


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Top choice for taping mud also. Second choice would be proform all purpose. Sounds like quite the deal how much did the whole pallet cost.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

132.00 and some change for 30 boxes


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

awesome deal.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

that would get me five boxes of mud from home depo. unbelievable!


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> that would get me five boxes of mud from home depo. unbelievable!


Yeah but Joe is talking boxes not pails!!!


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

DSJOHN said:


> Yeah but Joe is talking boxes not pails!!!


Yes but the boxes were being sold for 10 and some change and the pails at 12.50


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Tell your carpenters to stop wasting money buying con fill.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

thats two comments about confill from you now. i'd like to hear your opinions on the stuff. i've always thought it was a great product for fixing big booboos.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Look up the product on CGC's website. It's designed for an entirely different purpose.


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## big george (Feb 7, 2009)

joepro0000 said:


> USG Green Lid - BOXES @ Lowes - $4.13 exclusively - I bought the last pallet!


 That's the same price as a bucket of water here.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

Bevelation said:


> Look up the product on CGC's website. It's designed for an entirely different purpose.


so the question is, do you prefill and what with? i've just always used confill and not really tried other ways. i'm always doing reno's in old places matching up new drywall to old plaster. for me it's irreplaceable. open to other products and ideas though.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> so the question is, do you prefill and what with? i've just always used confill and not really tried other ways. i'm always doing reno's in old places matching up new drywall to old plaster. for me it's irreplaceable. open to other products and ideas though.


You could try plaster of paris with the small jobs, but you got to be really damn fast. You put mud on a mixing board, make a circle, put a coffee cup full of water in middle, throw in the plaster of paris. Let it absorb the water, mix it with your knife really fast,then apply really fast.
I'm sure dsjohn could explain better........He's the plaster master
when you get use to the small mixes, you can increase the batch sizes. And mix with a drill. it reacts fast.
you can prefill,lay tape, coat and skim in one day.
There are some pro's and cons to this method


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

just picked up a bunch of proroc AP. i haven't tried it in a while. see how i like it on monday. it's out of my way to get it so i have to stock up when i do..


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i HATE it. and i now remember exactly why i never liked it. no matter how hard i try i cannot mix the bubbles out of it. more mixing, less mixing same result. it pocks like crazy:furious: it is taking me at least one or two more passes over it to get the pocks and fisheyes out which adds up to a lot of time. any faithful proroc users have any suggestions? i still have five more boxes of frustration to use.


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## ProbeGT (Mar 23, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> You could try plaster of paris with the small jobs, but you got to be really damn fast. You put mud on a mixing board, make a circle, put a coffee cup full of water in middle, throw in the plaster of paris. Let it absorb the water, mix it with your knife really fast,then apply really fast.
> I'm sure dsjohn could explain better........He's the plaster master
> when you get use to the small mixes, you can increase the batch sizes. And mix with a drill. it reacts fast.
> you can prefill,lay tape, coat and skim in one day.
> There are some pro's and cons to this method



Another method we uses it you do as 2buck said, but make a bigger donut. When you mix, split the mix like a pizza, and just mix a portion that you need. leave the rest unmixed and once you need more, mix a new portion. By letting the plaster of paris in only water, it takes more time before it seize. Using that method you can delay a batch and use it for about 25-30 minutes instead of the 10-15 minutes. Also, the more the plaster stays in water, the more it absorb it and the less granular your mix will be.


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## MercuryArc (Mar 30, 2010)

I've been on my own for 28 months. I only use Pro Form now. I use all purpose for taping and embed the tap in it. Then finish coat with blue lid. Haven't had a call back yet and I have gone back to check on some of my work at certain houses where I know they won't mind.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i HATE it. and i now remember exactly why i never liked it. no matter how hard i try i cannot mix the bubbles out of it. more mixing, less mixing same result. it pocks like crazy:furious: it is taking me at least one or two more passes over it to get the pocks and fisheyes out which adds up to a lot of time. any faithful proroc users have any suggestions? i still have five more boxes of frustration to use.


pro form/ usg a/p . I hate it too. thanxs to ds john .. I looked up no-pocs
at all wall. ordered 4 bottles.. worth a try. I do the same.. extra skim over
seams/butts/bead.. sand the out of the angles.. more time means
less $$$! never liked the pro rock mud or rock, but if your like me we use what the g/c or local supply sends. dig up some red clay,, throw it in a bucket,,, can't be any worse than some of the many a/p out there now.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm going to try hamiltons AP next. they have a supplier about five minutes away from me. they don't really do small sales. just to big drywall suppliers in the area but the guy said he would sell me some. $12 a box before tax. everything else around here is $18ish a box. i might just buy a pallet and mark up every box i use if i like the stuff. i don't think i'll be using proroc again. i'm still on my search for my favourite AP.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i'm going to try hamiltons AP next. they have a supplier about five minutes away from me. they don't really do small sales. just to big drywall suppliers in the area but the guy said he would sell me some. $12 a box before tax. everything else around here is $18ish a box. i might just buy a pallet and mark up every box i use if i like the stuff. i don't think i'll be using proroc again. i'm still on my search for my favourite AP.


Hamilton is pretty good, but I prefer Beadex Light muds. USG makes Beadex, but it's not the same USG mud that you see at Home Depot. 

There are ways around the complaints centered around using light muds, if you've got a good system you can avoid "layering/onion skin" that comes about when sanding. I love coating with Beadex light topping (and no, I do not have an affiliation with USG). Hamilton is probably the next best, at least in my book.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

I just got a skid of proform taping mud...and a skid of there machine grade mud.the taping mud is awsome it runs through my taper no problem.no water added..I have found a new mud by by usg.:thumbup:


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## paplaster (Feb 21, 2011)

smisner50s said:


> I just got a skid of proform taping mud...and a skid of there machine grade mud.the taping mud is awsome it runs through my taper no problem.no water added..I have found a new mud by by usg.:thumbup:


 I tape with usg taping mud. Have you ever used this mud. If so, is there much of a difference between usg and proform. I ask this because the supplier I buy my mud from is having a difficult time getting the usg taping mud and is considering switching to proform taping mud.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

paplaster said:


> I tape with usg taping mud. Have you ever used this mud. If so, is there much of a difference between usg and proform. I ask this because the supplier I buy my mud from is having a difficult time getting the usg taping mud and is considering switching to proform taping mud.


I have only used usg allpurpose.for everything and watered it down for taping...the proform taping just wip it up and go already the right consitsey.I had to order proform by the skid to get it from my supplier..well worth it


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

One thing i have noticed with proform is that blue steel knives just dont cut it. Stainless is the only way to go. Also when mixing if ya spin it to fast it will create air bubbles. I am hooked on my advanced tools mixer and my cordless drill (creamy). Also I always use bottled water from Stewarts, or poland springs. Distilled water would be best but that might be getting carried away. Water also makes a huge difference in dry time with your hot muds. Even in less then ideal conditions. Just make sure its luke warm.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

paplaster said:


> I tape with usg taping mud. Have you ever used this mud. If so, is there much of a difference between usg and proform. I ask this because the supplier I buy my mud from is having a difficult time getting the usg taping mud and is considering switching to proform taping mud.


We were using usg taping[grey top] until supplier stop getting anything but AP and Plus3--pro-form from another supplier works well but I like the usg better!!:thumbsup:


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## paplaster (Feb 21, 2011)

DSJOHN said:


> We were using usg taping[grey top] until supplier stop getting anything but AP and Plus3--pro-form from another supplier works well but I like the usg better!!:thumbsup:


 Used the proform taping mud(brown lid) today. It's ok. I think I like the usg taping(grey lid) better. Got to get use to using proform taping mud the supplier can't get the usg unless they order 7 skids at a time.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

bringing this one back to life. i bought some beadex all purpose when i was down in the states last week. it was mid weight at least. those little square boxes were HEAVY. i have never seen anything other than lite mud before. noticable differance. i decided to use it for my bed and finish coats. NEVER AGAIN!!!!! i have never had to sand so hard in my life. mid weight muds are another beast. thank god it was a garage because i got pissed off and stopped trying to sand out things i usually would. the one thing i would say is it makes an awesome taping mud. better than our lite taping muds. but it really was heavy. it is also what i tried to use in my bazooka for the first time. why not make a hard thing even more difficult right:thumbup:
our lite all purose is like a topping mud compared to that.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> bringing this one back to life. i bought some beadex all purpose when i was down in the states last week. it was mid weight at least. those little square boxes were HEAVY. i have never seen anything other than lite mud before. noticable differance. i decided to use it for my bed and finish coats. NEVER AGAIN!!!!! i have never had to sand so hard in my life. mid weight muds are another beast. thank god it was a garage because i got pissed off and stopped trying to sand out things i usually would. the one thing i would say is it makes an awesome taping mud. better than our lite taping muds. but it really was heavy. it is also what i tried to use in my bazooka for the first time. why not make a hard thing even more difficult right:thumbup:
> our lite all purose is like a topping mud compared to that.


:lol:Here carpenter I get pro form a/p,and USG a/p ,, DENSE ,, very hard to sand. :yes:. Pocs,,scratches , hard to sand.. I catch hell for my over kill ,but that's what it takes for me to not kill myself on sand day. Tapers here will not tape with the gray USG,,only the white,,, The gray USG has a poor bond ,and takes FOREVER to dry,,and gummy.


[email protected] ..... The limestone In the northern states white.
The limestone in the southern states gray.

A N/G rep told me this years ago. How true it is ,,not sure.:blink:
I do know the whiter the stronger,and drys much faster.

The gray Is great for stipple/tex ...covers,,and hides well.
This is just my opinion guys,,,Don't throw me under the bus.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> bringing this one back to life. i bought some beadex all purpose when i was down in the states last week. it was mid weight at least. those little square boxes were HEAVY. i have never seen anything other than lite mud before. noticable differance. i decided to use it for my bed and finish coats. NEVER AGAIN!!!!! i have never had to sand so hard in my life. mid weight muds are another beast. thank god it was a garage because i got pissed off and stopped trying to sand out things i usually would. the one thing i would say is it makes an awesome taping mud. better than our lite taping muds. but it really was heavy. it is also what i tried to use in my bazooka for the first time. why not make a hard thing even more difficult right:thumbup:
> our lite all purose is like a topping mud compared to that.


were they the yellow boxes?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> :lol:Here carpenter I get pro form a/p,and USG a/p ,, DENSE ,, very hard to sand. :yes:. Pocs,,scratches , hard to sand.. I catch hell for my over kill ,but that's what it takes for me to not kill myself on sand day. Tapers here will not tape with the gray USG,,only the white,,, The gray USG has a poor bond ,and takes FOREVER to dry,,and gummy.
> 
> 
> [email protected] ..... The limestone In the northern states white.
> ...


Where does the brown mud come from, the few times I have played with the American mud, it's been brown in colour,.We have some that have a touch of grey to them. Some of our muds are a really pure white. Are they tinting your muds, and if so why ?????


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Where does the brown mud come from, the few times I have played with the American mud, it's been brown in colour,.We have some that have a touch of grey to them. Some of our muds are a really pure white. Are they tinting your muds, and if so why ?????


YOU tell me . Been trying to find the answer to that forever ,and a day.
This Building supply has USG green top GRAY.
Drive a county over to another supply ,,,, USG white. :blink::blink: no markings to tell one from the other.
It use to be the same way with the blacktop proform ,, but In the last 7 years or so the proform has been white white. 
ALL lowe's here carry the green top [gray] . That I can say for sure.
The gray USG ..... WILL NOT DRY FOR CHIT. gummy ,,like the plus 3 ,and light weight stuff.:blink:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

carpentaper said:


> bringing this one back to life. i bought some beadex all purpose when i was down in the states last week. it was mid weight at least. those little square boxes were HEAVY. i have never seen anything other than lite mud before. noticable differance. i decided to use it for my bed and finish coats. NEVER AGAIN!!!!! i have never had to sand so hard in my life. mid weight muds are another beast. thank god it was a garage because i got pissed off and stopped trying to sand out things i usually would. the one thing i would say is it makes an awesome taping mud. better than our lite taping muds. but it really was heavy. it is also what i tried to use in my bazooka for the first time. why not make a hard thing even more difficult right:thumbup:
> our lite all purose is like a topping mud compared to that.


We use Synko lite taping mud through the bazookas. Never had a problem with it that I know of: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/syn...ping-compound-ready-mixed-155-l-carton/911215


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

*could'nt Imagine*

I could not imagine using all purpose mud to tape and yes that is what happens, it cracks,

As for the Big head first, I think that is F&*k$d up and no I have never done it that way and never would, 2.5 and then 3.5 makes way more cents (Pun intended)


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I could not imagine using all purpose mud to tape and yes that is what happens, it cracks,
> 
> As for the Big head first, I think that is F&*k$d up and no I have never done it that way and never would, 2.5 and then 3.5 makes way more cents (Pun intended)


 Did you just bash other peoples' methods....with out trying it? LOOK OUT and take cover everyone!! :gunsmilie:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Did you just bash other peoples' methods....with out trying it? LOOK OUT and take cover everyone!! :gunsmilie:


I'm in the mood to argue.... I mean debate,since my dependable ford broke down, but I agree with him about the mud type, and the head sizes and order their used in


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

*wow*



fr8train said:


> Did you just bash other peoples' methods....with out trying it? LOOK OUT and take cover everyone!! :gunsmilie:


thanks for pointing that out, sorry folks I thought this is easier on a fellow taper...

and no I don't want to step into the Strrreet at Sundown, but my apprentice Rusty will


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I could not imagine using all purpose mud to tape and yes that is what happens, it cracks,





2buckcanuck said:


> but I agree with him about the mud type




Really? Always cracks?

Haven't seen that with the Synko All-Purpose. Yet. But then I haven't been back to lots of jobs where we've used it on occasion to tape with.

We've sometimes used Synko AP to tape smaller areas, such as when it's a small fix or small reno, and there's just all-purpose brought to the job site to use.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Really? Always cracks?
> 
> Haven't seen that with the Synko All-Purpose. Yet. But then I haven't been back to lots of jobs where we've used it on occasion to tape with.
> 
> We've sometimes used Synko AP to tape smaller areas, such as when it's a small fix or small reno, and there's just all-purpose brought to the job site to use.


Not familiar with the synko mud, but you typed synko LITE taping mud, it's just that lite muds are topping muds, not as much glue in them, so their not so great to tape with.

But a quick google of synko's mud types may give you your answer, make sure which one your using:thumbup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Not familiar with the synko mud, but you typed synko LITE taping mud, it's just that lite muds are topping muds, not as much glue in them, so their not so great to tape with.
> 
> But a quick google of synko's mud types may give you your answer, make sure which one your using:thumbup:


Shrinko has alot of glue in it and let me tell ya don't scratch your N8ts with muddy hands, or it's of to the El Pressure washer to remove it


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Not familiar with the synko mud, but you typed synko LITE taping mud, it's just that lite muds are topping muds, not as much glue in them, so their not so great to tape with.
> 
> But a quick google of synko's mud types may give you your answer, make sure which one your using:thumbup:


It's the LITE we use. They also have a CLASSIC AP: http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/joint-treatment/ready-to-use-compounds/synko%C2%AE-classic-all-purpose-drywall-compound.aspx?pType=PRO

Synko's LITE AP is listed for putting on tapes: http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...-all-purpose-drywall-compound-.aspx?pType=PRO

As I said, no feedback on it cracking that I've heard of. As Joe suggested, maybe it's a little less 'lite' than other lites?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

JustMe said:


> It's the LITE we use. They also have a CLASSIC AP: http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...c-all-purpose-drywall-compound.aspx?pType=PRO
> 
> Synko's LITE AP is listed for putting on tapes: http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...-all-purpose-drywall-compound-.aspx?pType=PRO
> 
> As I said, no feedback on it cracking that I've heard of. As Joe suggested, maybe it's a little less 'lite' than other lites?


your links don't work

Think it's just the "term" LITE, every other mud manufacturer uses the term lite for topping muds, here's the ones we use, the orange, the yellow is BMITJ and the blue is lite, or easy sand, http://www.certainteed.com/products/gypsum/joint-finishing-compounds

AP is the so called miracle mud, if you can call it that, you can tape, coat/bed and skim/top with it. the old days (for a while) you used one to tape with, then a different type to coat with, then one to top with. Tapers in the field started combining them. Then the mud companies caught on, and made a all purpose


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I could not imagine using all purpose mud to tape and yes that is what happens, it cracks,
> 
> As for the Big head first, I think that is F&*k$d up and no I have never done it that way and never would, 2.5 and then 3.5 makes way more cents (Pun intended)


We used AP mud for years before taping mud ever existed and it worked just fine. Problems arose when machines became more popular and noob operators were watering it down to much and wiping all the mud out of the joint because it was so soft. I can still see in my mind some contractors going crazy from all the call backs.

As for head selection I prefer your routine also. Kinda like coating screws. I do 4",4" then 6". Not 6",4" then 4". Doesn't make sense, to me anyway.

This Synko is definitely good for taping but I find it a bit gummy. Likes to leave stretch marks for lack of a better description.

If I was a super rich goon I'd buy out Synko and shut them down.:yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> your links don't work
> 
> Think it's just the "term" LITE, every other mud manufacturer uses the term lite for topping muds, here's the ones we use, the orange, the yellow is BMITJ and the blue is lite, or easy sand, http://www.certainteed.com/products/gypsum/joint-finishing-compounds
> 
> AP is the so called miracle mud, if you can call it that, you can tape, coat/bed and skim/top with it. the old days (for a while) you used one to tape with, then a different type to coat with, then one to top with. Tapers in the field started combining them. Then the mud companies caught on, and made a all purpose


I could see where maybe the 'lite' is creating problems. Synko's 'LITE' compound line: Calls their taping mud Lite Joint; AP is Lite Line; and their topping Lite Finish.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

chris said:


> were they the yellow boxes?


it was the red box. a shade darker red than the lite all purpose. beadex.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Where does the brown mud come from, the few times I have played with the American mud, it's been brown in colour,.We have some that have a touch of grey to them. Some of our muds are a really pure white. Are they tinting your muds, and if so why ?????


 Wew have a mud over here that gyproc make and its brown! Its sh*t 2 sand ,hard as nails!!! Then u get usg plus three which is see through till it drys Then gyproc promix is like a yellow/brown in colour and usg allpurpose is like a sand colour:blink: Not sure why everything is a dif colour but the deeper the colour of the mud makes the joints look better as it seems 2 hide stuff like high edges compared 2 the usg plus 3!But all in all plus 3 is the stuff makes a great job:thumbsup: I have even taken on your 2 box method with plus 3 and will put up a pic soon of a house i am nearly finished c what u guys over the pond think of it


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> it was the red box. a shade darker red than the lite all purpose. beadex.


they also make a yellow heavyweight tapin mud that woorks really well for tapin only....just heavy tho


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

*Stay away from the brown mud*



2buckcanuck said:


> Where does the brown mud come from, the few times I have played with the American mud, it's been brown in colour,.We have some that have a touch of grey to them. Some of our muds are a really pure white. Are they tinting your muds, and if so why ?????


Reminds me of Woodstock ... last time I saw brown mud, the Johnny on the Spot was full and some character thought it would be funny to bury a terd or two in the mud bucket.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Field General said:


> Reminds me of Woodstock ... last time I saw brown mud, the Johnny on the Spot was full and some character thought it would be funny to bury a terd or two in the mud bucket.


Sorry .that was stupid.


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## Muddy Perfection (Jul 1, 2011)

When I've purchased mud, green top=white, and my light blue top= off white, almost a grayish tint.


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## Deanmcbrat (Jul 15, 2021)

carpentaper said:


> i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.


I've heard they started using less glue in the all purpose


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## Pinkalink (Mar 19, 2017)

You can add PVA or Carpenters glue to your mud if you're worried about adhesion.


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## baileychic8 (Jul 29, 2021)

There are drywall "pros" here in Arkansas that use thin set mixed with mud on the first coat over tape. No cracking good for bathrooms and kitchens.


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## Fillyourcracks (Aug 19, 2021)

carpentaper said:


> i have not bought a box of taping mud since november. i've been using exclusively synko all purpose for taping and coating. i've also been fixing a lot more bubbles and edge cracks since then too. i've only been doing this because i got sick of carrying around so many different types of mud. thinking of going back to using taping mud again. has anyone else noticed this? i have also been wondering about all you bazooka tapers out there that run the bigger angle head first and then finish with the smaller head. do you still use taping mud for the angles when laying tapes? wouldn't that cause a problem when sanding? that method seems to me like it would require using all purpose for taping.


I only use taping mud for sticking the tape on with the bazooka. If I have a little left over Ill slap the beads on with it too. Lite all purpose for everything else. 
I do 2 inch for taping and finish with 2.5 inch angles. I've seen people finish the other way around and it works too. The main thing is that you want to just cover that inside bevel.


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## DjZombeat89 (Aug 17, 2021)

Look, I can appreciate that when it comes to taping, depending on the level of experience you are able to cover up just about anything and make it work. Also, when it comes to the compound, it's more of a to each his own kinda deal. However, the companies that make all these products do so for a reason, it's because they work. They make products and label them accordingly to make our job easier. When you say, you got tired of carrying so many other types of mud it puts the question out there as to why you are a taper in the first place. It's like a dj only carrying one type of music because they are tired of carrying so many other types of music to a party. Going forward, All Purpose was created for " all purposes" however, it's just not the best way to go unless you have to. Taping mud should be used for taping, and Topping for Topping. This of course is just my opinion and mean no hate by it, I just wanted to say my piece. This is my trade, I take it seriously and have a lot of passion for it, that's all.


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