# Big Wally's Plaster Magic Results



## fr8train

As I posted in another thread, I was going to give this product a go. I'll post some pics at the end.

I followed the instructions, and it all worked out ok, however I don't think this product is going to fix the issues that I encountered. I noticed that I could push the ceiling up significantly before I started, but in most places, when I drilled the holes, the bit would go through the plaster and then stop at the lath.
This is what you want, but my issue is that I believe the lath has become separated from the framing.

To those of you who want to try it, be warned! The conditioner is very thin, almost like skim milk. The directions say to use 3-5 sprays per hole. Since I was working on a ceiling most of it would come right back out at me. You need to hold the nozzle firmly against the plaster. I found it best to use both hands. Give it one good spray, and leave the nozzle where it is for a few seconds to act as a plug, then you can give it another. Some of my problems are probably because the plaster was not loose from the lath, the lath was loose from the framing, therefore there was no void for the conditioner to go into.

The glue looks, feels, and smells like a thinned down elmer's glue. I had the same problems with it as I did the conditioner. Where I did inject into a void, it was smooth and easy, however if I hit a tight spot, it would build pressure and squirt back out forcefully.(So I now know that this glue tastes like elmer's!)

Ran the screws and washers in, and wiped off the excess that comes back out of the holes

All in all, I think the product would be much easier to use on a wall.


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## fr8train

Pics!


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## Frankawitz

I would say your product isn't getting it, looking at that ceiling and how the ceiling is starting to belly, I would be affraid the ceiling was coming down, so how do you draw the plaster back up to the framing:whistling2: also if you have a roof leak what about all the black mold on the backside of the ceiling how do you kill it off? if you don't remove the bad what good is this stuff or is this a way to get around the new EPA Laws


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## Drywall Tycoon

Drill a 1" hole. Mix up some all purpose or dura bond. Pump it in the cavity with your texture pump. Let it set. Screw big Wally.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Thanks for the update on the Elmer's. Last one I did was a whole lot of buttons and durabond. Haven't eaten any glue since I was about 4...it's probably lost its appeal.


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## fr8train

Frank,
The only way I can think of to definitively re-secure the loose lath to the framing would be to crawl up into the attic, crawl across the ceiling and every place that I find a loose lath, drill a hole down to mark it, and perhaps apply a little glue. Then go back to the room and screw up every loose lath. I could then resecure the loose plaster to the re-secured lath. 

I believe the belly in the plaster is not from a leaky roof, there are no signs of water damage. I think whoever installed that ceiling light box is the culprit. It did not use to be there, the original light for that room was a pendant light on the wall.

All-in-all, I think this product is designed to fill a niche, it won't solve every problem dealing with damaged plaster. But this way, you don't have to rip the plaster off to 'repair' it. This product basically replaces the damaged keys on the old plaster.


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## Frankawitz

Like I said it could work for plaster that is bulging less then a 1" anything more then that will need to be removed. and what your saying about attaching lath would take forever and besides that you would split the wood lath trying to screw it down, to much mickey mousing around, it would be easier to take it out and replaster then mess with all that extra work, just a waste of time in my book.


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## fr8train

Frank, I agree with you, and since I'm a drywall man, and not a plaster guy, guess which I'll be doing!


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