# Level 5 with a Graco



## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Just wondering on the methods you are using out there for a level 5 finish with the graco pumps , what are the steps you go through . Also what brand and type of mud most are using , spray tip size , how much sanding for prep. and to finish... what works best for you ? What kind of coverage should one expect ? Are you just fogging the rock or going for a more complete and solid coverage ? Do you remove the filters on the pump / gun ? How much thinning down on the mud ? stilts aka the rock doctor :thumbup:


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## Quality1st (Aug 1, 2008)

*Smoothwall the Movie*

Puttycoat on smoothwall is a good idea if a taper is not experienced and or confident in the ways of smoothwall. Still, all butts and flats have to be super flush prior to puttycoat. I will only do a puttycoat if they demand it in the specs, and pay for it. They usually only demand a puttycoat because they,ve been disappointed so many times in the past. I believe less then 10% of all tapers are smoothwall artists. Myself i broke in on smoothwall when they were painting the finished product with high gloss oil. A lot easier these day with semi-gloss latex going on the finish. You can avoid using a puttycoat if the finish is good enough by these steps. 1. after sanding and touchup, at night with directed halogen. 2. Apply primer, i like SW 400, Spray and backroll. use3/4 nap . Let it harden and cure and sand entire surfaces with 100 grit on smokepole. 3. Then come in again at night with directed halogen, and look for scratchs and touchup with a little gray added to my touchup mud. 4. Sand your touchup and no need to prime these spots, if 2 coats of finish is to be applied. If i am paid to do a puttycoat i either roll on the mud or spray it on, depending on the height of the walls ect. Then one guy on stilts pulling to the flat and one guy on the floor pulling up to the flat. Let cure and then i rub it out with 150 grit on a smoke pole. At night with directed halogen lights. Still demand the painters i noy me to sand in between coats to take off any aggregate from paint or whatever. Either way it turns out flawless and soft to the touch as a babys ass, IF the surfaces are super flush. GIDDYUP:thumbup:


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Quality1st said:


> *Puttycoat*​ on *smoothwall*​ is a good idea if a taper is not experienced and or confident in the ways of *smoothwall*​. Still, all butts and flats have to be super flush prior to *puttycoat*​. I will only do a *puttycoat*​ if they demand it in the specs, and pay for it. They usually only demand a *puttycoat*​ because they,*ve*​ been disappointed so many times in the past. I believe less then 10% of all tapers are *smoothwall*​ artists. Myself i broke in on *smoothwall*​ when they were painting the finished product with high gloss oil. A lot easier these day with semi-gloss latex going on the finish. You can avoid using a *puttycoat*​ if the finish is good enough by these steps. 1. after sanding and *touchup*​, at night with directed halogen. 2. Apply primer, i like SW 400, Spray and *backroll*​. use3/4 nap . Let it harden and cure and sand entire surfaces with 100 grit on *smokepole*​. 3. Then come in again at night with directed halogen, and look for *scratchs*​ and *touchup*​ with a little gray added to my *touchup*​ mud. 4. Sand your *touchup*​ and no need to prime these spots, if 2 coats of finish is to be applied. If i am paid to do a *puttycoat*​ i either roll on the mud or spray it on, depending on the height of the walls *ect*​. Then one guy on stilts pulling to the flat and one guy on the floor pulling up to the flat. Let cure and then i rub it out with 150 grit on a smoke pole. At night with directed halogen lights. Still demand the painters i *noy*​ me to sand in between coats to take off any aggregate from paint or whatever. Either way it turns out flawless and soft to the touch as a *babys*​ ass, IF the surfaces are super flush. GIDDYUP:thumbup:


 Not looking to PUTTY COAT as you call it , and yes i can understand a inexperienced taper / finisher . You did not answer what I was looking for... I am very capable of hiding all seams but my question is directed more to a level 5 done with a *graco*​ airless ... sometimes depending on the paint used and the lighting situation it would be good not to worry about seeing the smoothness of the mud against the grain of the *sheetrock*​ paper. I have no doubt that your method serves your purpose but not mine... for one thing I don't think I would go at night and work just to make things look right , should be able to do it during the daytime and also I agree with sanding after the primer coat except I would never do this prep for a painter that is his part of the job unless you are painting as well.. still looking for different answers , thanks anyway.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Quality1st said:


> Puttycoat on smoothwall is a good idea if a taper is not experienced and or confident in the ways of smoothwall. Still, all butts and flats have to be super flush prior to puttycoat. I will only do a puttycoat if they demand it in the specs, and pay for it. They usually only demand a puttycoat because they,ve been disappointed so many times in the past. I believe less then 10% of all tapers are smoothwall artists. Myself i broke in on smoothwall when they were painting the finished product with high gloss oil. A lot easier these day with semi-gloss latex going on the finish. You can avoid using a puttycoat if the finish is good enough by these steps. 1. after sanding and touchup, at night with directed halogen. 2. Apply primer, i like SW 400, Spray and backroll. use3/4 nap . Let it harden and cure and sand entire surfaces with 100 grit on smokepole. 3. Then come in again at night with directed halogen, and look for scratchs and touchup with a little gray added to my touchup mud. 4. Sand your touchup and no need to prime these spots, if 2 coats of finish is to be applied. If i am paid to do a puttycoat i either roll on the mud or spray it on, depending on the height of the walls ect. Then one guy on stilts pulling to the flat and one guy on the floor pulling up to the flat. Let cure and then i rub it out with 150 grit on a smoke pole. At night with directed halogen lights. Still demand the painters i noy me to sand in between coats to take off any aggregate from paint or whatever. Either way it turns out flawless and soft to the touch as a babys ass, IF the surfaces are super flush. GIDDYUP:thumbup:


 Not looking to PUTTY COAT as you call it , and yes i can understand a inexperienced taper / finisher . You did not answer what I was looking for... I am very capable of hiding all seams but my question is directed more to a level 5 done with a graco airless ... sometimes depending on the paint used and the lighting situation it would be good not to worry about seeing the smoothness of the mud against the grain of the sheetrock paper. I have no doubt that your method serves your purpose but not mine... for one thing I don't think I would go at night and work just to make things look right , should be able to do it during the daytime and also I agree with sanding after the primer coat except I would never do this prep for a painter that is his part of the job unless you are painting as well.. still looking for different answers , thanks anyway.


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## ckshadd (Nov 21, 2021)

Quality1st said:


> *Smoothwall the Movie*
> 
> Puttycoat on smoothwall is a good idea if a taper is not experienced and or confident in the ways of smoothwall. Still, all butts and flats have to be super flush prior to puttycoat. I will only do a puttycoat if they demand it in the specs, and pay for it. They usually only demand a puttycoat because they,ve been disappointed so many times in the past. I believe less then 10% of all tapers are smoothwall artists. Myself i broke in on smoothwall when they were painting the finished product with high gloss oil. A lot easier these day with semi-gloss latex going on the finish. You can avoid using a puttycoat if the finish is good enough by these steps. 1. after sanding and touchup, at night with directed halogen. 2. Apply primer, i like SW 400, Spray and backroll. use3/4 nap . Let it harden and cure and sand entire surfaces with 100 grit on smokepole. 3. Then come in again at night with directed halogen, and look for scratchs and touchup with a little gray added to my touchup mud. 4. Sand your touchup and no need to prime these spots, if 2 coats of finish is to be applied. If i am paid to do a puttycoat i either roll on the mud or spray it on, depending on the height of the walls ect. Then one guy on stilts pulling to the flat and one guy on the floor pulling up to the flat. Let cure and then i rub it out with 150 grit on a smoke pole. At night with directed halogen lights. Still demand the painters i noy me to sand in between coats to take off any aggregate from paint or whatever. Either way it turns out flawless and soft to the touch as a babys ass, IF the surfaces are super flush. GIDDYUP:thumbup:


Your prime the walls if cant gets a level 5 without priming first then you can call yourself a smooth wall artist, There are many ways to get level 5 no putty coat and it requires clean work flat walls and every edge wet sponged off after sanding and all other simple drywall smooth wall stuff use halogen and led light combo come from different angles go over the wall multiple times and having a painter the knows how to sand his primer and proper roll or spray and back roll paint


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