# Next Generation Mesh Tape?



## FibaFuse (Feb 25, 2010)

Hey Guys-I know there has been some heated debate over paper vs. mesh tape, but if you could improve mesh tape how would you do it? what would it be like? what needs be better?


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## PETE (Apr 2, 2008)

people always complain about the strength and the you need to use hot mud. personally i never had a problem with mesh i think people just like to argue over anything. so i would say the strength and maybe make it stick better pisses me off when it doesnt stick good. gotta try that fibafuse you got when i get around to it


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Got a Roll of fiba fuse about a month ago, used it on 2 small remodel jobs, luv the stuff on butt joints[that someone else hung] and HO wanted the wallpapered paneling taped and skimmed, it worked great, nice product. Rips too easy for mechanical tools in my opinion.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

FibaFuse said:


> Hey Guys-I know there has been some heated debate over paper vs. mesh tape, but if you could improve mesh tape how would you do it? what would it be like? what needs be better?


If mesh was made so you could tape a whole job, *corners* & all, BEFORE starting the mudwork while maintaining a strength that would impress "paper purists", what more could you ask for?
________
Laguna Bay II Condominium


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

I got some fibafuse from a sherwin williams, all I kept thinking was "this is exactly what mesh should be" if you could make that stuff self adhesive like traditional mesh tape... it would be unbeatable, as is right now it really doesn't save any time so it would be a hard sell to get any finisher to adopt it. Basically if it was self adhesive you would have a tape that could be installed with regular mud, it really would be the fastest way to hang tape.


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

I'd want it to run in my bazooka without having to pull the advance pin out


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

FibaFuse said:


> Hey Guys-I know there has been some heated debate over paper vs. mesh tape, but if you could improve mesh tape how would you do it? what would it be like? what needs be better?


The debate over Mesh is the strength so I would go with that, I think fibafuse is the next generation because it will run in auto tools where mesh never will. I don't think fuse would ever be self adhesive because it is too dense for enough mud flow behind it. For marketing purposes I would take the word "Fiba" out and lower the price, you would be surprised how many people out there would like a product and swear by it because it's cheaper. To sum up an ideal tape, it would have to work with all types of auto tools, be compatible with a/p and hot mud, and be stronger than anything else available....Oh wait...that sounds familiar...I would work on the product you've already got because I think you are on the right track. 
DSJOHN - I found if the mud was too thick in the banjo it can rip.
Saul - In the bazooka the advancing pin worked fine for me but mine might be blunt (if you were talking about running Fuse).


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

Interesting. I'll have to experiment with it in my bazooka.


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## FibaFuse (Feb 25, 2010)

good points. If there was an extra strength mesh tape would you use it on vaulted ceilings?

is anyone dealing with special joints a lot, other than standard tapered and butt joints, or have to cover up defects and need something wider and stronger?


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

I'd gladly carry a 3" roll for fixing ugly corner breaks in homeowner boarding, and for covering a moved duplex plug cutout (with new backing board behind). 

I can't imagine using a fibreglass tape for off angles unless it had a smooth plastic folding joint in the center. No coat is hard to beat in this regard. I don't even use straightflex much anymore.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i agree with fenez. if i could just roll the stuff on the walls and coat it like regular mesh tape i would for sure use it on all my flat and butt joints. make it self adhesive and you've got me.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

You guys will luv this stuff on butt joints, header butts ,window butts ,and the big roll for plaster repair or over pieced in window or door openings , Ive been using Nu-Wall with dura bond and reg mud for years and this stuff is just as good.


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i agree with fenez. if i could just roll the stuff on the walls and coat it like regular mesh tape i would for sure use it on all my flat and butt joints. make it self adhesive and you've got me.


I'd want the tape surface to be smooth enough to be able to box my butt seams without the blades hanging up on the tape like they would with mesh. Making a tape that is porous enough to load from the top, yet smooth enough to box would be challenging. If you can do that, and have it last better than paper tape, I'm in too.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i get that you probably can't make the whole backside self adhesive. with the surface area of the tape it might not even come off the roll in one piece. maybe there could be one small strip of adhesive on each side of the crease. if you made the adhesive water soluble it would still become workable when mud was applied and you would still get a complete bond through the tape. it might have to be a second product that could not be used through the machines. just put a slightly different label on it on the inside of the roll to avoid confusion. i would only use it if it made hand taping easier. as it is right now it is no different than using paper tape except that it is more expensive and has a new learning curve and its own set of challenges. not interested in that if it does not make it faster. i don't care if it is easier to wipe down or if it is " possibly" stronger, paper is good enough for me. make it self adhesive and i will buy it by the box. i probably still would not use it on the angles but whatever. i just want something to make hand taping easier for those small jobs. i


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i get that you probably can't make the whole backside self adhesive. with the surface area of the tape it might not even come off the roll in one piece. maybe there could be one small strip of adhesive on each side of the crease. if you made the adhesive water soluble it would still become workable when mud was applied and you would still get a complete bond through the tape. it might have to be a second product that could not be used through the machines. just put a slightly different label on it on the inside of the roll to avoid confusion. i would only use it if it made hand taping easier. as it is right now it is no different than using paper tape except that it is more expensive and has a new learning curve and its own set of challenges. not interested in that if it does not make it faster. i don't care if it is easier to wipe down or if it is " possibly" stronger, paper is good enough for me. make it self adhesive and i will buy it by the box. i probably still would not use it on the angles but whatever. i just want something to make hand taping easier for those small jobs. i


I can see your point. I think butts and tapers could be a world faster if a tape that stood up as well as paper could be rolled over then seam, and then just coated over with a flat box. That'd be faster than taping and wiping with a bazooka, then filling just the same after that.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I can see your point. I think butts and tapers could be a world faster if a tape that stood up as well as paper could be rolled over then seam, and then just coated over with a flat box. That'd be faster than taping and wiping with a bazooka, then filling just the same after that.


 
Sounds like a good idea, but the self adhesive products have not got a good record for holding up as well as tape mudded on, there has been a few tryed it but dont remember the names, But glues and materials have surged ahead in the last few years so maybe it could work?? i woudnt be the first try it though, Bazooka and wiping down can be very fast, only a day or two tape up a large house, so if another product took 20% off that time its not really much of a saving is it. But i guess you wouldnt have to buy and maintain a bazooka then would you.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

You guys should ask for a free sample,try it ,you will realize its idea of mud behind and then on top makes it become one thing like paper,but its thinner really just try some It wont replace bazooka TAPING WITH PAPER THO THATS JUST MY PERSONAL OPINION.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Ok I just got home after using fibafuse all day today. I am completely convinced that this product with self adhesive would be the best thing ever to happen to drywall and here is why.... unlike mesh tape it doesn't crack with conventional mud, the mud seems to dry much faster with this tape because it is porous which allows the compound to dry quicker.
I have done jobs with mesh tape and hot mud which worked fine but was a big pia because of all the mixing but the one thing that was great was how fast I could hang the flats and butts, If this tape could be used the same way but with conventional compound it would be the fastest way to tape a job... not by a little either


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## Samm (Jul 24, 2010)

Ok so I don't do a lot of drywall, I'm mainly a stucco plasterer. I had to join to say that Fibafuse has to be the best for hand taping inside corners for newbies. The mud pushes right thru the tape so you don't get bubbles.

By the same token, If you're not real careful with your knife you can rip right through the inside seam.

If I wanted to improve FibaFuse I'd make it stronger for sure. Never thought of self-adhesive before But I'd love it. If you could find a way to get it to hold it's shape when you crease it that would be great too. It seems that the way you make the crease is to weaken the fibers in the center. Terrible idea IMO, because you need the extra strengh in the corner. 

Now when am I gonna get the free samples I asked for


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## croozer (Jun 7, 2009)

*just an observation*

why is everyone allways looking for an easier way to tape than using paper? Strong, straight and quick if done correctley. I personally cant seem to imagine a quicker way to tape board properly than a bazooka/blaster used in competant hands. The only thing I reckon that would be close would be self adhesive paper tape, but even then I doubt it would offer substantial time savings.I recall a product that had to be soeked in water before application, but that seems to have gone by the way-side.If any hand finishers out there are having trouble getting a great paper-tape finish, try this....Apply mud with 6' blade/knife. Make sure taper/recess is filled evenly. String tape (paper) along joint with 6' blade. Then rub tape over with a straight bevel 3" blade to embed deeply into the recess. I used to go along tape from either end once each way to be sure the tape was completly under the recess. When squeezed out to a satisfactory level, fill taper /recess with 8" blade. This technique gave me 1000 odd houses of trouble free finish...Just learn to use paper properly and there is no easier method or better finish. Mesh tape is for ametuers and handy men....but I may be wrong


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## FibaFuse (Feb 25, 2010)

croozer said:


> why is everyone allways looking for an easier way to tape than using paper? Strong, straight and quick if done correctley. I personally cant seem to imagine a quicker way to tape board properly than a bazooka/blaster used in competant hands. The only thing I reckon that would be close would be self adhesive paper tape, but even then I doubt it would offer substantial time savings.I recall a product that had to be soeked in water before application, but that seems to have gone by the way-side.If any hand finishers out there are having trouble getting a great paper-tape finish, try this....Apply mud with 6' blade/knife. Make sure taper/recess is filled evenly. String tape (paper) along joint with 6' blade. Then rub tape over with a straight bevel 3" blade to embed deeply into the recess. I used to go along tape from either end once each way to be sure the tape was completly under the recess. When squeezed out to a satisfactory level, fill taper /recess with 8" blade. This technique gave me 1000 odd houses of trouble free finish...Just learn to use paper properly and there is no easier method or better finish. Mesh tape is for ametuers and handy men....but I may be wrong


With FibaFuse you don't have to take an extra step to embed it deeply in the mud. FibaFuse has an open structure such that it easily integrates in to the base coat. In fact, you have to use a lot less pressure to squeeze out excess mud compared to paper tape. Your wrists, elbows and shoulders will thank you for it after a days worth of taping. 

Also, FibaFuse runs through the bazooka. Comments from the field say that its easier for them and takes less time to squeeze out excess mud when they embed FibaFuse after its been put up with an automatic tool.

Not sure if you've used FibaFuse yet. If not I can send you a sample roll and you can give it a try for yourself.


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## FibaFuse (Feb 25, 2010)

Samm said:


> Ok so I don't do a lot of drywall, I'm mainly a stucco plasterer. I had to join to say that Fibafuse has to be the best for hand taping inside corners for newbies. The mud pushes right thru the tape so you don't get bubbles.
> 
> By the same token, If you're not real careful with your knife you can rip right through the inside seam.
> 
> ...


Did you request the sample through www.fibafuse.com? I can follow up for you. 

The crack strength at the seam is the same as throughout the tape. The glass fibers are still intact and that's what give FibaFuse its high crack strength. Ripping in the inside seam is a common problem when first using FibaFuse - its made of glass and raw glass is brittle by nature. I find that tapers realize they can overcome ripping issues by using corner trowels and corner finishers. I know, some guys love their trusty 6" knife and will not switch to a corner tool. In that case I suggest you use a lot less pressure when embedding FibaFuse. Remember, it has a very open structure so you don't need to press hard to squeeze out excess mud. Your wrists will thank you for it as well.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

All these old guys and the same old attitude that don't try anything new or just use the same old method that we have been using. I have been taping since 1984 and I am now 41 years old ( you do the math) there are 17 finishers in my family and we have used every system imaginable. Have an open mind to new things technology advances which means products get better and materials get better.


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## croozer (Jun 7, 2009)

*just for the record*



fenez said:


> All these old guys and the same old attitude that don't try anything new or just use the same old method that we have been using. I have been taping since 1984 and I am now 41 years old ( you do the math) there are 17 finishers in my family and we have used every system imaginable. Have an open mind to new things technology advances which means products get better and materials get better.


 I am not stuck with my head in the sand, as a matter of fact I only recently moved(12 months ago) from being a hand finisher to completly shifting over to auto-tools, after 32 years in the game. I saw a better way and set about learning it. Best move I ever made. All I was/am saying is I belielve that paper is probably the best stuff for taping on the market, but if new/improved product turns out to be better, especially after a couple of years , then of course I will use it.At this point in time, I will wait and see. The problem with all other tapes is that they are not a solid entity, rather a combination of pieces, which I feel does not give them the same lateral strength as a single unit length of paper...anyway, waiting and watching.


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## kgphoto (Dec 21, 2009)

croozer said:


> The problem with all other tapes is that they are not a solid entity, rather a combination of pieces, which I feel does not give them the same lateral strength as a single unit length of paper...anyway, waiting and watching.


Funny, but actually not true. Paper is a bunch of pieces pressed together. So is FibaFuse, just bigger pieces. Give it a shot, I think you will be pleaseD. There are at least three threads here that discuss the pro's and con's.

I too, vote for self adhesive backing.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Dunno about the self stick backing idea, those products have been and failed, Would it not lose some strength if used this way? 

Using it as you have to now makes sure the mud is all the way through and mud is fully touching the wallboard allowing great adhesion and maximum strength.

Not saying it wont work, but i would be a bit reluctant to use and trust it, but hey feel free to prove me wrong, Glues have come a long way in recent years, it would speed it up for sure.


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## kgphoto (Dec 21, 2009)

Cazna,

You make an important point. So just to clarify, I don't mean self adhesive so that is what bonds it, just some adhesive to hold it on the wall temporarily until you force the mud through, similar to the way standard mesh tape works.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Oh right, i see what you mean, could be a good idea.
So stick the tape, grab the box and into it, forget the bazooka, well for the flats anyway, i still think fuse for the flats and paper for the corners, angle heads would prob catch, flushers might be ok but i havent tryed it so just talking out of a hole in my a#$e at this stage.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i tried just holding a piece of it against a dry joint and wiping the mud through. it did not work. the mud would not push through enough to get a good bond. that pretty much convinced me it would not work as a self adhesive tape. this was with thick mud though. maybe try it with thin mud again sometime.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i tried just holding a piece of it against a dry joint and wiping the mud through. it did not work. the mud would not push through enough to get a good bond. that pretty much convinced me it would not work as a self adhesive tape. this was with thick mud though. maybe try it with thin mud again sometime.


I agree, might not work to well. Dont know until somebody trys though.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> just talking out of a hole in my a#$e at this stage.


you said it...................


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> you said it...................


 :thumbsup::jester:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

why do people want to put stick in fibafuse...then you would just be hiding holes and cracks...you need to fill them first, than tape it...short cuts are nice but do the job right.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

mesh tape is worthless.i tape all flats and butts with 90 min. paper tape only. mesh tape will always crack ! sorry ,its not worthless. good for repairing doorknob holes.


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## rhardman (Jul 7, 2009)

moore said:


> mesh tape is worthless.i tape all flats and butts with 90 min. paper tape only. mesh tape will always crack ! sorry ,its not worthless. good for repairing doorknob holes.


 
Oh no... 

I'm too tired...


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> mesh tape is worthless.i tape all flats and butts with 90 min. paper tape only. mesh tape will always crack ! sorry ,its not worthless. good for repairing doorknob holes.


 Now mesh tape is NOT worthless,,,,, its the duck's-nuts for patching leaking trailor roofs with roofing cement.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

someone wanted a stick on FibaFuse to the wall ...put a roll in water than stick it...it sticks lol. not how I would use it but there you go... stick on FibaFuse with water if you wait too long it might not come off if you put it on a dry spot of mud. I wonder if you sprayed glue on the seam than added FibaFuse ??? could be nuts but it would stick.lol might be good for a small rework job? I do like it on nails pops and around outlets. its thin and you can 2nd coat 30mins later.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

rhardman said:


> Oh no...
> 
> I'm too tired...


you mean 90 min easysand light mud ? durabond 90 will not crack and mesh tape dose not crack the mud dose...you can rip paper tape with your hands and that cracks... mesh you need a knife to cut it...it cant crack...its the mud that cracks.if you fill a BIG hole with mud with no tape it cracks and then your 2nd coat with paper tape a week later with tape the crack is gone.. and if you use duradond on the same size BIG hole there is no crack and if there is mesh in it you did a good job rick.than hit it with a hammer and test both holes....lol


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

icerock drywall said:


> you mean 90 min easysand light mud ? durabond 90 will not crack and mesh tape dose not crack the mud dose...you can rip paper tape with your hands and that cracks... mesh you need a knife to cut it...it cant crack...its the mud that cracks.if you fill a BIG hole with mud with no tape it cracks and then your 2nd coat with paper tape a week later with tape the crack is gone.. and if you use duradond on the same size BIG hole there is no crack and if there is mesh in it you did a good job rick.than hit it with a hammer and test both holes....lol


 Well maybe u can't tear the fiberglass mesh by hand but you certainly can stretch it so any movement there you go hairline cracks period ... Paper tape will not stretch... and if you really want to do the hammer trick test call a ready mix truck...and fill them up with concrete..


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Now mesh tape is NOT worthless,,,,, its the duck's-nuts for patching leaking trailor roofs with roofing cement.


Didn't someone once accuse you of taping in trailer parks?:jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> Didn't someone once accuse you of taping in trailer parks?:jester:


 I'm sure they did,,, I LOVE working close to home!!!!!!!!:thumbup:

Remember,,, If you mess with me,,,,,,,, you're messing with WHOLE trailor park, and we got ALOT of doublewides!!!:whistling2:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I'm sure they did,,, I LOVE working close to home!!!!!!!!:thumbup:
> 
> Remember,,, If you mess with me,,,,,,,, you're messing with WHOLE trailor park, and we got ALOT of doublewides!!!:whistling2:


How do you expect us to be able to insult you if you don't take seriously things that shouldn't be taken seriously?


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Hi guys i just got some fiba fuse tape sent over the pond a couple of weeks ago from fiba fuse! My thoughts on the matter were if it was a little thicker it would really have worked well through the gun! I did have some joints had a ridge in the middle but only a few but had 2 go back and fix them with paper tape which i dont like doing.I sure would like 2 try it again but we cant get hold of anything over here,just started getting usg paper faced beads here!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

i would ask that the outside string dont roll off by itself and wrap around your finger :thumbup:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Take a knife and lay the tape roll flat and score it from one side to the outher..and problem...i use paper tape..but an old plaster man showed me that


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Not a clue what u lads r speakin about but cheers!!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> Take a knife and lay the tape roll flat and score it from one side to the outher..and problem...i use paper tape..but an old plaster man showed me that


Are you talking about the sides of the roll? Hot damm, that sounds like the perfect solution! Give your old plaster man a big kiss for me.:tt2:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Not a clue what u lads r speakin about but cheers!!


same here,are they talking,mesh,paper or fiba fuse,and doing what with a knife,I'm confused.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> same here,are they talking,mesh,paper or fiba fuse,and doing what with a knife,I'm confused.


Mesh. You paper snobs wouldn't know, but when you string a bunch of glass tape, invariably one strand on the outside of the roll separates from the stuff you're laying and builds up on the edge....it's a super pain in the a$$. The trick that smisner50s talked about would basically put little cuts in that edge piece, so it wouldn't be able to unravel in such a large quantity. I imagine you'd want to score both sides.


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

I use sheetrock meshtape on all my seams have for 16 years (with no cracks). I don't think I would change anything about it. I have used some other brands of mesh before didn't like any of them. As far as some of the comments I have read on numerous posts about people who mesh tape must be amateurs I challenge anyone to come see my work. Running a bazooka doesn't make you a top notch finisher. Just because you cannot use mesh tape without cracks doesn't mean its the product I would guess it is the applicator. I repair paperfaced bead every month on houses less than a year old tear it off put on metal for 90's, vinyl for all bullnose and off angles I could easily say no coat and all paperfaced beads are for trailer factorys and amateurs but I don't judge the material just the applicators.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cdwoodcox said:


> I use sheetrock meshtape on all my seams have for 16 years (with no cracks). I don't think I would change anything about it. I have used some other brands of mesh before didn't like any of them. As far as some of the comments I have read on numerous posts about people who mesh tape must be amateurs I challenge anyone to come see my work. Running a bazooka doesn't make you a top notch finisher. Just because you cannot use mesh tape without cracks doesn't mean its the product I would guess it is the applicator. I repair paperfaced bead every month on houses less than a year old tear it off put on metal for 90's, vinyl for all bullnose and off angles I could easily say no coat and all paperfaced beads are for trailer factorys and amateurs but I don't judge the material just the applicators.


I will use one of the captains lines since he is not on line
who ever gets it done fastest,with no call backs ,and makes the most money at the end of the week,,,,wins (in a nut shell)
and a line taught to me "never go back and look at your work 7 years later, you will cry when you see it"
but here you are blaming the applicator and not the material,do you not know what type of things happen to a house in the 1st year it settles.
sounds to me like your a basement king,and while your doing them,the HO goes "oh can you fix this up stairs too"
I do nothing but new construction,period,if I pulled out mesh tape I would be fired
you want to do things your way fine,do it,put if you want to attack those who have invested into their business by buying machines,trying new methods and materials,and busting their a$$ ,but their amateurs.....so
1) admit it ,you want a bazooka,your jealous
2)paper bead faster to install
3)mesh tape vs bazooka,you loose
4)hotmud slows your day down on NEW homes period.
so yeah,post some pics of your work,then ill post some of mine.
where are all these trolls coming from all of a sudden


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

I was taught at a young age...sticky mesh tape on walls to be plastered..and paper tape on drywall finish wall..im my experiance every time I have to fix hairline cracks..there was mesh tape behind it..not haten just stating


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> I will use one of the captains lines since he is not on line
> who ever gets it done fastest,with no call backs ,and makes the most money at the end of the week,,,,wins (in a nut shell)
> and a line taught to me "never go back and look at your work 7 years later, you will cry when you see it"
> but here you are blaming the applicator and not the material,do you not know what type of things happen to a house in the 1st year it settles.
> ...


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cdwoodcox said:


> 2buckcanuck said:
> 
> 
> > I will use one of the captains lines since he is not on line
> ...


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

I use mesh tape for all seams applied by hand. First coat with flatbox quickset mud.
I use banjo to papertape all angles and butts with all purpose mud.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

smisner50s said:


> I was taught at a young age...sticky mesh tape on walls to be plastered..and paper tape on drywall finish wall..im my experiance every time I have to fix hairline cracks..there was mesh tape behind it..not haten just stating


 The reason for that is that mesh has absolutely NO strength to it.

If you hang dura-rock on a wall, mesh tape it, then brown coat it and finish coat it with EIFS stucco. It will crack, all on its own in less than a week.:thumbsup:

Ever wonder why plaster's don't use mesh tape????? :lol:

Drywallers TRYING to fix plaster, use mesh tape,,,,,,:bangin:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

So capt your saying mesh tape over calcote plaster board is wrong?


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Im talking scratch coat .than smooth finish coat..no eifs


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

smisner50s said:


> Im talking scratch coat .than smooth finish coat..no eifs


 I am no expert in stucco, got like 4 years total. I have found that regular (TRASH) mesh tape will crack 100% of the time. 

On the other hand, if you "cut" the stucco mesh roll to 2", it will hold,,, better yet cut the "heavy mesh" used for colums and other (OMG, a teenage girl is gonna park here mesh) will hold even better.

Honestly,,, the only thing I have EVER seen drywall mesh tape work for,,,, is when you trailor roof is leaking,,,, put the mesh tape over the leak before you smear a 1/2 gal of black mambie over it !!!!!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

smisner50s said:


> So capt your saying mesh tape over calcote plaster board is wrong?


 I'm not saying its wrong,,, I'm just saying that it is of no use,,, If the substrate does not move,,,, your product will hold. If the substrate does move,,, mesh will do absolutely nothing to stop it.

Dern, I even get tired of listening to me talk about how useless mesh is !!!!:yawn:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I am no expert in stucco, got like 4 years total. I have found that regular (TRASH) mesh tape will crack 100% of the time.
> 
> On the other hand, if you "cut" the stucco mesh roll to 2", it will hold,,, better yet cut the "heavy mesh" used for colums and other (OMG, a teenage girl is gonna park here mesh) will hold even better.
> 
> Honestly,,, the only thing I have EVER seen drywall mesh tape work for,,,, is when you trailor roof is leaking,,,, put the mesh tape over the leak before you smear a 1/2 gal of black mambie over it !!!!!!


Im not talking about using drywall mesh for plaster app..over here in pa that is how interrior plaster smooth finish is done with the spec out tape made for plaster wall finish..


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

smisner50s said:


> Im not talking about using drywall mesh for plaster app..over here in pa that is how interrior plaster smooth finish is done with the spec out tape made for plaster wall finish..


 Sorry, my bad. 

I don't really understand what your saying here.

In FL they use blueboard for stucco, and use drywall mesh tape on the joints. I assumed that was what you were talking about.

Again, being ignorrant of the products you use, I'd wager that the tape they are using is not as flimsy as drywall mesh tape. Just a guess tho.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Plaster tape here is thick on body..and a close woven pattern..no one can no of all the products out..


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

S##t just did a house with mesh tape!!! Not done for a long time but its very cold and wet at mo over here.Drying time is a big thing at mo but i will b payed by the time it cracks ha ha!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> S##t just did a house with mesh tape!!! Not done for a long time but its very cold and wet at mo over here.Drying time is a big thing at mo but i will b payed by the time it cracks ha ha!


 Whatever melts your butter,,, or cracks your flats


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

So I finally got a little bit of that there FibaFuse today. I have to say, I was a little dismayed when I pulled it apart and it ripped like a tissue. I started wondering about the "70% stronger" claim. I will say this, when I put it on a patch, it basically disappeared...it's so darn flat, that it's going to make hiding patches at least 50% easier....no mesh to chatter the blade, and no thickness like paper tape. I suppose the only way to know how strong it is would be to run a few side-by-side tests and see how it holds up. I plan on doing the same thing with the Vario when I have a little free time and feel like wasting it on drywall experiments.


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