# Lets ask a painter a serious question for a change???



## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Most drywallers round these parts that prime only (after finishing) use a 1 1/4" knapp for backroll,,,,, I prefer a 1/2" knapp. I really don't see any differance. Two schools of thought.
1) the bigger knapp gives a more uniform texture of=ver everything.
2) the smaller knapp makes for a flater wall (with more defects showing)

This question is for painters, and/or drywallers that paint their own stuff.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

hey capt..

I usually use 3/4 to prime/backroll behind sprayer...then I use 1/2" nap for finish...I personally like the purdy covers with the "purdy" blue stripes in them:thumbup:...they hold a ton of paint but end wear after about 2 or 3 washes..if i want a really good finish, i use lambswool..but most of the people i'm painting for don't care..


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> hey capt..
> 
> I usually use 3/4 to prime/backroll behind sprayer...


I am also in the 3/4 nap group, and I use a 3/8 or 1/2 on finish, depending on the texture.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bill from Indy said:


> hey capt..
> 
> I usually use 3/4 to prime/backroll behind sprayer...then I use 1/2" nap for finish...I personally like the purdy covers with the "purdy" blue stripes in them:thumbup:...they hold a ton of paint but end wear after about 2 or 3 washes..if i want a really good finish, i use lambswool..but most of the people i'm painting for don't care..


 I agree with that. I use the purdy white doves.

It is a shame that there is never enough money in the bid to use the really good stuff.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I use a 20 mill roller,,,,sorry captain,painters are the only construction trade that welcomed the metric system up here with open arms....that should make you grab 2 beers from the fridge.:yes:
So where's are the painters on this site gone to.too complicated of a question:whistling2:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

no. they just want to take all the taping secrets and not share any of their painting secrets.:jester:


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

For back rolling I use a 1/2 and for regular prime rolling I use a 3/4, for eggshell finish I will use a 1/2.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> no. they just want to take all the taping secrets and not share any of their painting secrets.:jester:


then we should change the name to this thread http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/misinformation-1643/ to....
everything a painter needs to know about drywall:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> For back rolling I use a 1/2 and for regular prime rolling I use a 3/4, for eggshell finish I will use a 1/2.


huh so does that mean you apply and roll forward with a 3/4 then switch to a 1/2 to roll back


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> huh so does that mean you apply and roll forward with a 3/4 then switch to a 1/2 to roll back


No that means when I am spraying ceilings or walls I am following the sprayer with a 1/2" 18" roller. It is pretty standard for a PC. 

So when I am not applying the primer with a sprayer I often will use a 3/4" nap.


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> no. they just want to take all the taping secrets and not share any of their painting secrets.:jester:


What do you want to know?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> What do you want to know?


if you were to do a level 5 with mud,could you skip the primer and go with 2 coats of your colour


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> if you were to do a level 5 with mud,could you skip the primer and go with 2 coats of your colour


No way Mr Misinformation, 10/12mm rollers for everything here is most common. 230mm 270mm 360mm 420mm if you get really keen.


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> if you were to do a level 5 with mud,could you skip the primer and go with 2 coats of your colour


I would not advise it. If you are doing a level 5 the customers will have high expectations and should carry the higher quality finish through to the end. 

Also another thing is on a level 5 the finish is not usually a flat, in my area at least it would be eggshell and eggshell needs the primer to be the base. 

A flat you could get away with it but imo it would feel like cheating unless it was discussed and the customer was not going to pay but like I said for that type of customer a 5 would not be something he/she would want to pay for anyways.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> No way Mr Misinformation, 10/12mm rollers for everything here is most common. 230mm 270mm 360mm 420mm if you get really keen.


Mr 2buck still right,mr painter in Canuck land and now kiwi land embrace the metric system ,besides you use 180 to rough sand your primer,who knows what mil roller you would use.......:tt2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> I would not advise it. If you are doing a level 5 the customers will have high expectations and should carry the higher quality finish through to the end.
> 
> Also another thing is on a level 5 the finish is not usually a flat, in my area at least it would be eggshell and eggshell needs the primer to be the base.
> 
> A flat you could get away with it but imo it would feel like cheating unless it was discussed and the customer was not going to pay but like I said for that type of customer a 5 would not be something he/she would want to pay for anyways.


SO use primer,what grit of sand paper should you sand the primer with before you lay 1st colour ?


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> SO use primer,what grit of sand paper should you sand the primer with before you lay 1st colour ?


I like to use 100grit sanding screens.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

You still have to seal/undercoat/prime it, Its a very important step, Top coats can delaminate from bare plaster and needs the sealer to fill and stick to the bare plaster, Is an important step towards achiving a full even and SMOOTH wall Mr lets tear the arse out of everything with 80g. 

Hey Work!!! what grit sandpapers you use???

Ok so i see you just answered that one, 100g??? Your as silly as 2buck then :jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> I like to use 100grit sanding screens.


see what type of sand paper that a painter from paint talk uses cazna,and he's a moderator there too
100 grit :whistling2:
thank you worky


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

cazna said:


> You still have to seal/undercoat/prime it, Its a very important step, Top coats can delaminate from bare plaster and needs the sealer to fill and stick to the bare plaster, Is an important step towards achiving a full even and SMOOTH wall Mr lets tear the arse out of everything with 80g.
> 
> Hey Work!!! what grit sandpapers you use???
> 
> ...


What are you using? 80?



2buckcanuck said:


> see what type of sand paper that a painter from paint talk uses cazna,and he's a moderator there too
> 100 grit :whistling2:
> thank you worky


lol 
the moderator thing means nothing. There are guys there that I would like to take a week or few to learn from.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> I like to use 100grit sanding screens.


 
Did 2buck pay you to say that??? It cant be true, A painter has more respect for his paint than that, 100g outside far enough but 100g inside??? Yuk, You must have some tough paints, Most of our sealers are called, easy sand sealer and we all use 180g on it, anything less and it would scratch it up to much and show through into the top coats.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> What are you using? 80?
> 
> 
> Like hell, No way, 2buck does and this is a follow on argument from other threads. 180g 220g for interior, 120g for exterior.
> ...


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

cazna said:


> Did 2buck pay you to say that??? It cant be true, A painter has more respect for his paint than that, 100g outside far enough but 100g inside??? Yuk, You must have some tough paints, Most of our sealers are called, easy sand sealer and we all use 180g on it, anything less and it would scratch it up to much and show through into the top coats.


Come across the pond and you would toss that 180 because it would not be doing much. 

If we were talking about trim paint I use fine medium sanding sponges. Our wall paints must be harder.


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

cazna said:


> Workaholic said:
> 
> 
> > What are you using? 80?
> ...


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> cazna said:
> 
> 
> > I was wondering because 80 in the wrong hands can cause all kinds of scratching. I have used 120 but it feels like you are doing all the work instead of letting the paper do the work.
> ...


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

cazna said:


> 180 smooths down the primer well, just enough to to take out the nibs and trash and dust but still leaving some sealer there so the first top coat wont sink into the bare spots and cause flashing, If you took to the sealer with 180 you could sand it away, Most painters here roll out and thin the sealer down so if its sanded with course paper its ruined, I personally like to spray sealer with a 519 tip heavy coat as to try and build it up to level 5 then sand smooth with 180g, this leaves a great full smooth sealer coat for the following top coats :thumbsup: I use about 20% more sealer to do this and its well worth it.


If I was using a thinner primer like Gaurdz then yes finer but the drywall primers here are more heavily bodied like paint. 

In that thread you linked it was about sanding unprimed drywall.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> cazna said:
> 
> 
> > I was wondering because 80 in the wrong hands can cause all kinds of scratching. I have used 120 but it feels like you are doing all the work instead of letting the paper do the work.
> ...


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Blah, Blah, Blah

It depends on the surface. I use anything from 1/4 to 1' 1/2. Should I make a how to video for ya? Drywallers stick to your trade and quit phucking up mine :thumbup:


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

uwing said:


> Blah, Blah, Blah
> 
> It depends on the surface. I use anything from 1/4 to 1' 1/2. Should I make a how to video for ya? Drywallers stick to your trade and quit phucking up mine :thumbup:


lol there is the Gabe I know.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> Blah, Blah, Blah
> 
> It depends on the surface. I use anything from 1/4 to 1' 1/2. Should I make a how to video for ya? Drywallers stick to your trade and quit phucking up mine :thumbup:


blah blah blah
you painters stay over at PT,and we will stay here at DWT:yes:


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

I really don't understand why you DWers want to paint/primer. Even if the painter goes cheap on the primer, do you really think that's gonna stop the painter going cheap on the finish? Your primer coat doesn't change a cheap azz painter. That painter will still phuck the sh!t up, regardless of your prime coat. I seriously don't get it. Please help me understand this.


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> blah blah blah
> you painters stay over at PT,and we will stay here at DWT:yes:


we learn from eachother. You need us and we need you :yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> I really don't understand why you DWers want to paint/primer. Even if the painter goes cheap on the primer, do you really think that's gonna stop the painter going cheap on the finish? Your primer coat doesn't change a cheap azz painter. That painter will still phuck the sh!t up, regardless of your prime coat. I seriously don't get it. Please help me understand this.


b/c the primer is the most important coat,it's like F#cking up on the foundation,and the rest of the house goes wrong.
and when the painter f*cks up the primer ,guess who they try to blame,read post 27


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> blah blah blah
> you painters stay over at PT,and we will stay here at DWT:yes:


Sorry, we are going forward here not backwards.


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Ya, but if the painter phucks up the primer, he's gonna be cheap some where else. Sorry I've painted thousands of sheet of rocks, never had a DWer prime my surface and would be pizzed if they did, voids manufacture warranty. I have never had a experience on the primer battle. Just a bunch of BS


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

uwing said:


> Ya, but if the painter phucks up the primer, he's gonna be cheap some where else. Sorry I've painted thousands of sheet of rocks, never had a DWer prime my surface and would be pizzed if they did, voids manufacture warranty. I have never had a experience on the primer battle. Just a bunch of BS


I got to agree with Gabe that I have not had a drywall guy do any priming either. I say if you are going to prime it you might as well try and score the whole paint job, add a division to the business.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> Ya, but if the painter phucks up the primer, he's gonna be cheap some where else. Sorry I've painted thousands of sheet of rocks, never had a DWer prime my surface and would be pizzed if they did, voids manufacture warranty. I have never had a experience on the primer battle. Just a bunch of BS


uwing ,I know what your saying,but your thinking painter,i'm thinking taper.My concern as a taper is up to the primer.One, are you going to accept the tapers work before you prime,and will the painter accept it after it's primed,after any colour goes on,the taper is done with the house,well the painter still has to have concern for the walls.so you could say it's the middle ground where we meet.Either trade could screw up the primer,so this is what the thread is about.to have everyone on the same page .Whats the best way to do it.as the captain said,it was a serious question to him.theres wars that start over the prime,,,,we can both admit there's Hacks on both sides:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> I got to agree with Gabe that I have not had a drywall guy do any priming either. I say if you are going to prime it you might as well try and score the whole paint job, add a division to the business.


that's the way it is around here,they want 2 separate companies for the drywall and paint.but when you get into private jobs the rules change.
like me priming the basement I'm doing this week:whistling2:

it's that satans palace I posted on this site,I'm going to be experimenting with some level 5 just for the hell of it.that's why I'm painting it so......


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> uwing ,I know what your saying,but your thinking painter,i'm thinking taper.My concern as a taper is up to the primer.One, are you going to accept the tapers work before you prime,and will the painter accept it after it's primed,after any colour goes on,the taper is done with the house,well the painter still has to have concern for the walls.so you could say it's the middle ground where we meet.Either trade could screw up the primer,so this is what the thread is about.to have everyone on the same page .Whats the best way to do it.as the captain said,it was a serious question to him.theres wars that start over the prime,,,,we can both admit there's Hacks on both sides:thumbsup:


Yes there are, and let the hacks phuck up their own work. 

I never had this pimer battle. And I will be honest, I've painted a lot of board without a primer coat. Never have I had a DWer b!tch about a primer coat. I'm just being real here. A primer coat will expose bad tape joints more than a unprimed rock. I know this from painting thousands of homes. I get that the board absords more than the mudded joints. Really, it only takes 2 coats of flat wall to get rid of that issue.


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> that's the way it is around here,they want 2 separate companies for the drywall and paint.but when you get into private jobs the rules change.
> like me priming the basement I'm doing this week:whistling2:
> 
> it's that satans palace I posted on this site,I'm going to be experimenting with some level 5 just for the hell of it.that's why I'm painting it so......


Until I show the spec that says paint warranty will be void if I don't use primer A for finish B


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> In that thread you linked it was about sanding unprimed drywall.


Well i would be pushing sh!t up hill starting a thread around here about sanding the primer coat and i cant be stuffed with paintalk so i just dig about and see what i can get, The Capt and I seem to be the only painter/tapers here, Not so sure if the capt has his trade in paint though, And im not saying he doesnt know whats up either. Nice to have you around for feedback Work :thumbsup:



uwing said:


> Really, it only takes 2 coats of flat wall to get rid of that issue.


Really, 2 coats of flat to fix it is it, more like 2 coats of flat to ruin it, Yeah flat hides due to no sheen but flat also marks very easy, I have seen walls that the painter cops out on with flat thinking thats the fix, well it isnt, the HO is soon moaning her dog or cat or child or herself touched the wall and left a dirty great smuge, Well thats how it is here anyway, your flat might stand up to abuse better than ours, We have just got flat waterbased enamel here, havent tryed it yet though.


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Cazna, I wasn't referring to hiding bad tape joint. I was referring to the board being more absorbent that the tape lines. I've done low sheen to semi's over a coat of flat as the primer. Never had an issue with tha either. Were talking mucho houses here, these were production homes. Bad tape lines are gonna show no matter what you put on the wall, yes flat hides it a bit, but if you look at it long enough it's there.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

uwing said:


> I really don't understand why you DWers want to paint/primer. Even if the painter goes cheap on the primer, do you really think that's gonna stop the painter going cheap on the finish? Your primer coat doesn't change a cheap azz painter. That painter will still phuck the sh!t up, regardless of your prime coat. I seriously don't get it. Please help me understand this.


 The reason this becomeing common place is this.

Some painters will some in and spray the primer, no backroll, no sand. THen after their first coat they sand. Its too late at that point. So, the GC comes and asks why? Then the blame game begins. This is how I got started in the painting end of "walls and ceilings". My answer was "let me paint the next one and I'll show what the problem is. I understand that most painters don't do this, but alot do.

I know this will make you see red, but painting pays WAY better than drywall, if its done at the speed of drywall(one example is cutting in from a little blue scaffold, rather than climbing up and down a stupid ladder all day, just scoot the scaffold as you go). I can easily make better than 600.00/day priming with one helper(and thats backrolling with a nine too). Sure I'm do it if I can get it. I'd rather hang,finish,trim,and paint it all, if I have the option too.

I'm not saying painters are lazy, just that most are doing it the way its always been done and seldom try a differant method. Many drywallers are guilty of that too.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Uwingpainting
your making me dizzy re-reading your post
guess the thread question is assuming we use primer to prime,then it's asking what nap size are we using ,for the texture/surface that we are leaving behind.
now your stating you don't use primer unless QUOTE "Until I show the spec that says paint warranty will be void if I don't use primer A for finish B" and that "Bad tape lines are gonna show no matter what you put on the wall " and you also state you use flat paint as a primer a LOT of the times.So which is it?
worky recommends I use a primer on a level 5 finish,while I'm assuming you would say use flat paint,b/c you can get away with it.what is the beat way to prime a excellent level 4 or 5 finish.PLEASE state paint type,nap size,and rolling or spray method.
Whats really making me dizzy uwing,Is that cazna sounds like he may be right.So we half to hurry,and clear this up before cazna's head swells and he floats away


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Its realy not that hard to understand. 

Point 1 
Depending on the surface texture, the nap size can be any where from 1/4" to 1'1/2" 

Point 2
If a painters gonna be cheap with primer he's gonna be cheap on the finish. Both can make the DW look bad. 

Point 2
It voids manufacture warranty when you don't stick to product specifacations

Point 3
I have painted many house useing flat as a primer, never had a DWer b!cth about this. 

I'm not trying to be right, I stoped trying to right on forums months ago. I'm stating my experience. I prime all raw substrate. If it was a production, I'd be going with 2 coats flat wall. Its all about what is right for the project. 

If your dizzy over this, breath!


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## Michigan11 (Jan 20, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> For back rolling I use a 1/2 and for regular prime rolling I use a 3/4, for eggshell finish I will use a 1/2.


Back rolling 3/4 here

Prime rolling 3/4

Eggshell finish, which gets shiners very easy, which I haven't used since the late 90's, but back then I used a 1/4 because that is a very unforgiving paint finish.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> Its realy not that hard to understand.
> 
> Point 1
> Depending on the surface texture, the nap size can be any where from 1/4" to 1'1/2"
> ...


I took a deep breath and........
Ill go with what worky said in post #14.
He's straight forward in what he says,offers two ways to do it,but states what he would be more confident with if he were to do the job
so worky gets the:thumbsup:


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

My post never disagreed with Seans, nor did I say what you should do. Not really looking for your acceptance or approval. I didn't even know there were sides to be taken. 
I think you are just misreading my post. And I'm tierd of expaining it to you. 
Love on brother :thumbup:


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

uwing said:


> My post never disagreed with Seans, nor did I say what you should do. Not really looking for your acceptance or approval. I didn't even know there were sides to be taken.
> I think you are just misreading my post. And I'm tierd of expaining it to you.
> Love on brother :thumbup:


I knew what you were saying Gabe. I think what he was looking for though was a direct answer to prime or no prime a level 5. 
I answered before it got side tracked with the drywall doing the primer. 

Flat paint works but it is best for lower grade houses where the budget is strained imo. A tinted primer coat is best.


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> I knew what you were saying Gabe. I think what he was looking for though was a direct answer to prime or no prime a level 5.
> I answered before it got side tracked with the drywall doing the primer.
> 
> Flat paint works but it is best for lower grade houses where the budget is strained imo. A tinted primer coat is best.


And that's what I was refering too "production homes" I prime all raw substrate UNLESS its a production unit. Ohh dear I'm explaining again. 
I'm glad someone understood me.


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

uwing said:


> And that's what I was refering too "production homes" I prime all raw substrate UNLESS its a production unit. Ohh dear I'm explaining again.
> I'm glad someone understood me.


I did understand you, you just wanted to get your post count one closer to mine. I know your game. :jester:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

Workaholic said:


> What do you want to know?


why does it take me so f-ing long to paint a doorjamb. aaaarrrggh:furious:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hey 2buck, Just prime it, level 4 or 5, Cheap flat would be the same as cheap primer so use primer/sealer/undercoat whatever you call it, Thats what its made for, Sealing filling and sticking to the mud and sanding smooth, Flat is for over the top of sealer to make it flat for hiding things and not for sanding or sticking to bare mud. But make sure you smooth sand it with 180 before top coats, Good man :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> And that's what I was refering too "production homes" I prime all raw substrate UNLESS its a production unit. Ohh dear I'm explaining again.
> I'm glad someone understood me.


Well,I guess that's where you confuse me uwing.You speak of there being 2 types of jobs .a high end and a low end type job.sounds like high end you use a good primer (maybe tinted) well a low end job you use a flat (reg) paint.but where does a taper cut back on cost.does he get a cheaper material/products,no that will increase your labour time.Do we cut back on coating stuff,no,that will get us having the painter calling us back.We can only do one type of job,our best.
So we only expect the best opinion you can offer,brother painter:yes::whistling2:


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

I think your getting dizzy again.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> why does it take me so f-ing long to paint a doorjamb. aaaarrrggh:furious:


Prob becouse you havent got a system or method, Like what part of the jamb to paint first, where a natural break is so you dont get lap marks, Have you filled, sanded then primed it, then sanded it, then gap filled, then 2 top coats, Did you dust it down after sanding, Have you got a top brush or are you using granddads old worn out stubby bristled peice of crap, Have you thinned it correctly, Whats the temputure, Cold Warm or hot, Will this affect the brushing, hot will stick up and flash dry causing the brush to drag, are you over working the brush and paint, have you removed the door and hinges. Water or oil based paints, both are different to use.

So easy to be a painter isnt it, everyone can paint cant they, just ask them, It only takes a day to become a painter 2buck says, well there is far more than meets the eye isnt there worky, :yes: Its not a 3 year trade to learn for no reason :thumbup: If this post reads like im being a smart arse, im not, Im just pointing out a few things for you to consider carpentaper :thumbsup: BTW I pefer hvlp.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

uwing said:


> Point 3
> I have painted many house useing flat as a primer, never had a DWer b!cth about this.


I have an honest to goodness question..

Does the flat actually seal the surface? I ask, because on we all know what happens on a L4 or L5 job when the surface is not uniformly absorptive (I could have sworn I just made that word up, but my spell check says no).


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> I have an honest to goodness question..
> 
> Does the flat actually seal the surface? I ask, because on we all know what happens on a L4 or L5 job when the surface is not uniformly absorptive (I could have sworn I just made that word up, but my spell check says no).


2 coats of flat will seal it up. The 1st coat will act as the prime coat, 2nd coat will absorb uniformly.


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

here is a product I have used as i have stated 2 coats of flat wall, meaning the flat is a self priming product. I can not find Sherwin Williams IsoFlat product data sheet. which is a self priming product as well. 


> DRYWALL:
> Allow new drywall finishes to properly cure before application. Patch all voids with the appropriate patching or caulking material. Clean the surface to remove any dirt, dust, grease, oil, wax, mildew, and other contaminants.
> *This product is self-priming over drywall, however, if a prime coat is desired use 063 Production PVA Wall Sealer* (water-based).


http://www.frazeepaint.com/pdf/017.pdf


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Well I'm with Work here,,, almost,,, he uses 100 grit screens, I use 100 grit paper on a gator head,,,,,, Since I'm from the south I guess I need to explain to the yanks,,, thats a sanding head not a real gatorhead,,, we use them for doorstops.


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## Schmidt & Co (Dec 14, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> thats a sanding head not a real gatorhead,,, we use them for doorstops.


Whew..... Had me worried there Capt!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> I have an honest to goodness question..
> 
> Does the flat actually seal the surface? I ask, because on we all know what happens on a L4 or L5 job when the surface is not uniformly absorptive (I could have sworn I just made that word up, but my spell check says no).


 Oh I see,,, I got more posts than you and YOU get a spellchecker,,,,,

I as offended as a liberal that has to get a job !!!!!!!

Maybe since I'm dylexic, the powers that be like to try to decpiher my posts,,,, can't blame em tho,,, there kinda like the crossword in the paper


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Oh I see,,, I got more posts than you and YOU get a spellchecker,,,,,
> 
> I as offended as a liberal that has to get a job !!!!!!!
> 
> Maybe since I'm dylexic, the powers that be like to try to decpiher my posts,,,, can't blame em tho,,, there kinda like the crossword in the paper


Capt,if it was not for spell check my spelling would be worse than yours.
right click the word that has the red squiggly line under it(i sp checked that word,squiggly)) and it will show you the proper spelling.
And get your grand kids to show you stuff on your computer,The little brats know more about them than us old farts do :yes::thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Capt,if it was not for spell check my spelling would be worse than yours.
> right click the word that has the red squiggly line under it(i sp checked that word,squiggly)) and it will show you the proper spelling.
> And get your grand kids to show you stuff on your computer,The little brats know more about them than us old farts do :yes::thumbup:


 Long as I have been on this thing, the only red squiggly lines I see are the reflections of my beer laden eyes in the monitor


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Long as I have been on this thing, the only red squiggly lines I see are the reflections of my beer laden eyes in the monitor


no spelling errors in that post ,,,,cheers:drink::drink::drink:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Since this IS the ask a painter thread,,, maybe Work can tell me where in the heck they hid the spellchecker,,,lol

I bet you guys think I'm joking,,,, can't blame ya


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

I use Fire Fox and it has a built in spell checker when you are typing.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> I use Fire Fox and it has a built in spell checker when you are typing.


Oh!!!! I didn't know that,I use fire fox,I thought the spell check was built into DWT,thats why we keep you around worky,you teach us PC stuff
here's the link capt http://www.mozilla.com/en-US/firefox/ 
just down load it,then surf to DWT


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I get the impression that I will have to let FF be my browser to use it. Is that right??


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I get the impression that I will have to let FF be my browser to use it. Is that right??


Yeah. I use IE, FF and Chrome. You can switch them around any time but I like FF the best.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I get the impression that I will have to let FF be my browser to use it. Is that right??


Yessir, and that's where my spellchecker comes from. 

FF is just all around better than IE, and less prone to viruses and malware.


And I think you called me a liberal back there?:furious:


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

I roll with FF to, but when I cruzing the forums I'm on Opera Mini on my BB 95% of the time


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> I roll with FF to, but when I cruzing the forums I'm on Opera Mini on my BB 95% of the time


Is the other 5% when you actually price a job......couldn't resist:whistling2::jester:


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Do you even know how to price a job beyond piece? :jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> Do you even know how to price a job beyond piece? :jester:


yes uwing,if you were to sit and read through all threads and post that I have submitted you would learn that ;;;I use to run my own real small business with a partner ,we had around a whole 10 guys at a time,and sometimes subbed out the rock.we dealt in a lot of veneer plaster and stucco b/c of my partners plastering back ground.Most of our builders were in the Sarnia Ont area.Our gravy work was old high rises where we boxed in new heating ducts with veneer plaster (people living in them,veneer no dust) We supplied,did the labour,I did the estimates (one year college,draftsmen) and looked after the boys,My partner did the books and collected the money .
But after 2 marriage break ups ,court battles,tax audits,recessions,bankruptcies,builders going out of business,trying to collect money,competing with the bigger DWC 's I said F*ck it,seemed like everyone had their hand in my wallet except me.
So now I sub,less headaches,payday every 2 weeks,still my own boss (I control my days the way I see fit) But the hands in the wallet thing still hasn't stopped,what can you do .........so:tt2: uwing,there's to your ego


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> yes uwing,if you were to sit and read through all threads and post that I have submitted you would learn that ;;;I use to run my own real small business with a partner ,we had around a whole 10 guys at a time,and sometimes subbed out the rock.we dealt in a lot of veneer plaster and stucco b/c of my partners plastering back ground.Most of our builders were in the Sarnia Ont area.Our gravy work was old high rises where we boxed in new heating ducts with veneer plaster (people living in them,veneer no dust) We supplied,did the labour,I did the estimates (one year college,draftsmen) and looked after the boys,My partner did the books and collected the money .
> But after 2 marriage break ups ,court battles,tax audits,recessions,bankruptcies,builders going out of business,trying to collect money,competing with the bigger DWC 's I said F*ck it,seemed like everyone had their hand in my wallet except me.
> So now I sub,less headaches,payday every 2 weeks,still my own boss (I control my days the way I see fit) But the hands in the wallet thing still hasn't stopped,what can you do .........so:tt2: uwing,there's to your ego


2buck, I'm not gonna read through your post to find out who 2bucker is. Your turning into one of those posters I just pass by without a thought. You are very defensive, as if I'm speaking down to you. I'm not! I came here to learn and to share. I have no ego issue
, nothing needs to be feed here other than a troll 


I'm done with ya now, your becoming the WP at DWT. I don't want this in a forum. I refuse to entertain this junk any more. It's just a waist time and post counts.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

uwing said:


> 2buck, I'm not gonna read through your post to find out who 2bucker is. Your turning into one of those posters I just pass by without a thought. You are very defensive, as if I'm speaking down to you. I'm not! I came here to learn and to share. I have no ego issue
> , nothing needs to be feed here other than a troll
> 
> 
> I'm done with ya now, your becoming the WP at DWT. I don't want this in a forum. I refuse to entertain this junk any more. It's just a waist time and post counts.


GOOD!!!!
read slims post in http://www.drywalltalk.com/f4/employee-employer-self-employed-1765/index3/ #55 ,it's a excellent response.We have all had our good and bad times in this trade.a lot of us have been humbled by this trade(drywall).It's damn hard work...Period.
If your thread (employer) were started by a fellow tradesmen ,my attitude would be different.It may of been different if you were on this site longer.But your a painter who knows nothing of our trade, you have not walked in our shoes.It's a total different job from painting.You say you came here to learn,but most of your post seem you came here to teach us a thing or too.What are you as a painter going to learn by who's a employer or employee.Seems your paint brush already had us painted in , for which we were,and then you conduct a poll on it.
I'm sure there's those that would love to see me gone from here.But I think most know I'm the resident Sh1t disturber.and I try to do my best to answer a serious question the best I can.Yeah,I'm the only one who pokes at you here.So lets reverse the roles,how many wolves at PT would jump all over me.you got to watch what you say over there,and you know it,you got it easy here at DWT


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

Gabe, 2buck you guys should take your disagreements to a PM. Same advice I would give for the "wolves" on PT. :whistling2:


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Workaholic said:


> Gabe, 2buck you guys should take your disagreements to a PM. Same advice I would give for the "wolves" on PT. :whistling2:


I'm going for the ignore route, seems I have been responding to foolishness. I really don't want this place to be tainted with uncalled for bickering. Members and lurkers really don't need to read this crap. 
So I'm done now!


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

I use 3/4" lamb covers for priming and painting. Use cheap primer and expensive paint! Has not failed me yet. Includes back rolling after spraying. I think if you know how to roll the wall dry, you can get pretty much the same texture as a 1/2" cover.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

joepro0000 said:


> I use 3/4" lamb covers for priming and painting. Use cheap primer and expensive paint! Has not failed me yet. Includes back rolling after spraying. I think if you know how to roll the wall dry, you can get pretty much the same texture as a 1/2" cover.


 I use the 3/4 for priming and the 1/2 for flat and the 3/8 for eggshell (I will NEVER FORGIVE painters for pushing that crap,, I hate it. 

On another note,, Wing, 2buck, you guys need to take a chill pill,,, this plae would be less if either of ya bailed,,,, so cool it or I'll get Work to send ya to your rooms!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

cazna said:


> Prob becouse you havent got a system or method, Like what part of the jamb to paint first, where a natural break is so you dont get lap marks, Have you filled, sanded then primed it, then sanded it, then gap filled, then 2 top coats, Did you dust it down after sanding, Have you got a top brush or are you using granddads old worn out stubby bristled peice of crap, Have you thinned it correctly, Whats the temputure, Cold Warm or hot, Will this affect the brushing, hot will stick up and flash dry causing the brush to drag, are you over working the brush and paint, have you removed the door and hinges. Water or oil based paints, both are different to use.
> 
> i'm using latex paint. thinned with floetrol. aprox 1 to 10 ratio. till it spreads well. my system is.... i start on the outside edge of casing go all round. then i do the front face of casing all around. next i do the part where the casing meets the recess for the door stopping before the largest flattest section of the jamb. then i paint the large section of the jamb and the inside edge of the other casing. then i paint face of other casing and finally outside edge of casing. thats my technique if it makes any sense to you. i'm sure any one who paints will figure out what i mean. it takes me about 25 minutes to coat a jamb(hinges off). i'm getting faster but they just seem to take forever. i don't paint often and have not really gotten around any major learning curves with a brush. i use nice products and can paint fast enough that i am not getting any drag when painting with latex but man is painting trim with oil ever easier(in my opinion). but i got sick of cleaning up with spirits. my end product always looks good and it should cause i'm the one who has to look at it all the time(it's my place). i rarely paint anything more than touchups at work. otherwise i would have to go by carpentainter. just sounds wrong.:jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Ha Ha, Yeah carpentainter does sound a bit odd???:thumbup:

Sounds like your doing ok, just some practice would help, There are a few tricks to using a brush but i would have to spend and afternoon with you to show you that, Typing it would be hopeless, Just make sure you get the best brush you can and always soak it in whatever the the paint is thinned with, ie water or turps, then spin it out, this will help stop the paint from setting up on the upper bristles and going all yuck on you :thumbsup: 

And always (lay off) your paint at the end, ie lightly use the tip of the bristles to go through the paint to remove as many brush marks and even it out the best you can, as i said, hard to type this, What you reckon Worky??? Do you do this?? Bloody hope so :whistling2:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> cazna said:
> 
> 
> > Prob becouse you havent got a system or method, Like what part of the jamb to paint first, where a natural break is so you dont get lap marks, Have you filled, sanded then primed it, then sanded it, then gap filled, then 2 top coats, Did you dust it down after sanding, Have you got a top brush or are you using granddads old worn out stubby bristled peice of crap, Have you thinned it correctly, Whats the temputure, Cold Warm or hot, Will this affect the brushing, hot will stick up and flash dry causing the brush to drag, are you over working the brush and paint, have you removed the door and hinges. Water or oil based paints, both are different to use.
> ...


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Ha Ha, Yeah carpentainter does sound a bit odd???:thumbup:
> 
> Sounds like your doing ok, just some practice would help, There are a few tricks to using a brush but i would have to spend and afternoon with you to show you that, Typing it would be hopeless, Just make sure you get the best brush you can and always soak it in whatever the the paint is thinned with, ie water or turps, then spin it out, this will help stop the paint from setting up on the upper bristles and going all yuck on you :thumbsup:
> 
> And always (lay off) your paint at the end, ie lightly use the tip of the bristles to go through the paint to remove as many brush marks and even it out the best you can, as i said, hard to type this, What you reckon Worky??? Do you do this?? Bloody hope so :whistling2:


 I never spin a brush,, If a helper spins my brush, I give it to him.

heres a pic of a brush thats nearly 20 years old, never been spun


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I never spin a brush,, If a helper spins my brush, I give it to him.
> 
> heres a pic of a brush thats nearly 20 years old, never been spun


So how do you get the access fluid out or do you like it running down the brush handle and up your arm :jester: If that brush is 20 years old then its been sitting in the shed or its the worlds best brush and i want some :thumbsup:

You dont like to spin it cause it speads the bristles, well you dont have to go spastic spinning it, just a bit between both hands dose the trick but your prob just flicking down and on the ground instead.

Brush saviours are good, the plastic storage box that clips on the brush.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> So how do you get the access fluid out or do you like it running down the brush handle and up your arm :jester: If that brush is 20 years old then its been sitting in the shed or its the worlds best brush and i want some :thumbsup:
> 
> You dont like to spin it cause it speads the bristles, well you dont have to go spastic spinning it, just a bit between both hands dose the trick but your prob just flicking down and on the ground instead.
> 
> Brush saviours are good, the plastic storage box that clips on the brush.


 If you'll notich there are two holes in the metal base,, punched with a nail punch,,, lets the water out of the base, IF you get any in there, shouldn't get in there period. Yes I beat it against my boot toe. I haven't had a shuck for that brush since like a year after I got it. Spinning a brush will make it look like one of them brushes they use for dusting finger prints.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> (I will NEVER FORGIVE painters for pushing that crap,, I hate it.
> 
> QUOTE]
> 
> Are you refering to 3/4" lamb skin covers?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

joepro0000 said:


> Capt-sheetrock said:
> 
> 
> > (I will NEVER FORGIVE painters for pushing that crap,, I hate it.
> ...


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> joepro0000 said:
> 
> 
> > No, eggshell paint
> ...


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## uwing (Jan 13, 2011)

Eggshell is just another term for low sheen, vendors name em different. Low Sheen, Egg Shell Matte, LoGlo, yadda yadda eveyone gotta be special. Kinda like "self employed" employee :laughing:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

captain ,I really want that "T" shirt,I know I'm off topic,but did you get that made,or did you buy that? I want one:yes::yes:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> captain ,I really want that "T" shirt,I know I'm off topic,but did you get that made,or did you buy that? I want one:yes::yes:


 I bought it,,, but the store went out of bussiness,,, I think the owner died of lung cancer,,,LOL


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## Authentic Drywall (Jan 30, 2011)

In our town and surrounding areas, we do not see too much smooth wall. (requiring backrolling). In my personal experience, the only finishes we backroll are smooth wall (that way when we come to do touch-ups, our stipple from the roller will match the stipple from initial paint) or orange peel on tall walls (to avoid a checker board look). I have seen that if you use a thick nap (1 1/4) that it holds too much material and gives you that "slide" look on your smooth wall, and a 1/2" or smaller nap will give you a dry roll look because it does not hold enough material or it may cause a thick stipple all over due to it pulling paint off the wall. 3/4" roller covers work the best in the applications for smooth wall and orange peel because they hold an adequate amount of product, and they leave a descent and not that noticable stipple on smooth wall.

When you prime your houses correctly (and we do tract homes and million dollar homes) you typically do not need backroll on a knockdown texture. On new homes, we typically spray 1 coat of primer and two-coats of top-coat and do a cross-hatch patter to assure full coverage. Orange peel on the other hand, in essence is almost applied in the same spray "technique" as painting. And it seems that you can see lines up and down walls if you do not prime/back roll correctly.

So, in the end, we use 3/4" skins for back rolling interiors. Purdy white doves are very good skins to use as they do not "spatter" as much as cheaper skins, but we also use contractor series skins from Sherwin-Williams that are virtually the same as the white doves, but just a little cheaper.


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