# Help with power sander



## rob_the_taper (Oct 3, 2009)

I have been taping 24 years, heard that you could finish sanbd with porter cable sander, but i can't do it with out scratches. I use 220 paper, there is no creeses in the paper but it still seems to have circual scratches, an i doing something wrong, or can you no finish sand with it.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

nope, you "pre sand" with it. you still have to take an idiot stick around and scuff the corners, and light with a hand sponge sander.

We use 120/150 on walls with the PC, 120/150 with the idiot stick, and then a fine sponge.
80/100 on the PC if we're ripping off pop. tex.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

****** got that right , only my method is use the 220 grit and I use a fine sponge to hand sand. a lot of it depends on the pressure you apply when sanding don't exert a great deal of pressure on the sander unless you want to take off mud fast , lighten up on it and it will leave less scratches and move it around , I will usually buff off the edges first say on a flat or butt then perhaps use a figure 8 mix it up on the movement and it will just become a habit . once you figure out that it will be a breeze and will cut down on the hand sanding ... I remember the first few times i used it took the mud down to the tape almost after fixing my f-ups figured out how to use it the right way .... myself i always run on high speed and again you just have to find the right touch on the amount of pressure you apply.... all of us that used idiot sticks in the past know that we were use to really pushing on that thing , not necessary with the porter cable unless you are trying to remove a botched up taping job , good luck and don't give up......


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

One more thing if you are using a new sander they can be a real pain until they are broke in , it seems like you really have to push hard on them until the bristles wear down on the sanding shroud , my solution to this is take a sharp pair of snips or a angle grinder and trim them back ( make them shorter ) I will do this now on all new sanders (don't take too much off ) & (kinda like removing a spring from a box or removing the tension from a angle head) , once you do this it will be like night and day when it comes to putting pressure against the wall and you will find it is easy to find the right feel for pressure instead of fighting the tension of new bristles.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I dunno, I agree yet respectively disagree. Yes, they need to be shorter. I would much rather push for a little while, and wear the brushes down then cut them and have extra dust "poof" from them getting cut, then wearing down.

Just my .02


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Whitey97 said:


> I dunno, I agree yet respectively disagree. Yes, they need to be shorter. I would much rather push for a little while, and wear the brushes down then cut them and have extra dust "poof" from them getting cut, then wearing down.
> 
> Just my .02


 don't have to take to much off and also I have wore them down to where the plastic is almost rubbing on the wall if your filter is clean don't have to worry about dust poof , do you realize how many sheets or hours it takes to wear them bristles down , you would probably wear the vac out before the bristles , even if you had to replace the bristles they aren't that much compared to the cost of all the disks and bags at least this is the way i look at it ... but what works for some don't for others do what's best for you right ?


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## rob (Jun 6, 2009)

Thanks for the info on how to finish sand with the power sander,it took me for ever to figure it out but,with encourage from fellow tapers i didn't give up and appreciate your advice :thumbsup:


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

you must have forgot your password I take it, and registered a new name? nice.
are you sure "encourage" is the right word you want to use?


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## rob (Jun 6, 2009)

ya, i forgot my password, and i ment to write encouragement, smart like hockey player.:whistling2:


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I'm confused


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## robert seke (Feb 5, 2010)

Guys, for those of you looking to achieve a level 5 finish with P/C, trust me and try the Joest 220 and 320 grit discs. I promise you will be amazed at the end result. You can order these from All-Wall or Fantastic Tools if you wish..... TRUST ME YOU WONT BE DISAPPOINTED!!


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

You won't have all those scratches if you use a little harder mud. Something other than USG or Gold Bond Lite.


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## JCardoza (Jan 23, 2008)

A round piece of cardboard cut from a mud box brings out the sand pad far enough till the brush wears down.... Sometimes you get to much dust tho. I normally trim mine down. 

I used to power sand with 220 and then use a Radius 360 sander with 220 grit to polish it out. I liked to keep a pole with 100 grit around to take out any humps I find, then polish again with the 220.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

J, I like the cardboard trick! Never thought of that. Thanks! Gonna try it. I have one sander that is trouble right now. Thanks again!:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Well guys, this is an old thread, but I'll add my 2 cents.

I cut the bristles off by 1/2 right out of the box. I run on full speed. I use 150 grit sanding screens from all-wall right over the top of an old sanding pad. I don't use a light, i only sponge the corners by hand. I paint about 1/2 the houses that I finish, so I KNOW that the PC will finish sand. 

Like Silver said,,,, you have to get used to the machine doing the job, you can't take a PC and hand sand with it like it was a pole.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

ur right. i use 150 grit pads. they cost 1.00 and the backer foam pads are 6.00. dont buy porter cable pads. they cost to much. but i take the pad box and scride out the foam pad and cut it out and put it on under the foam pad. It bring it out perfect. But like they said if u dont know what u are doing u will have to skim the house all over again. and also when i put a new pad on i always run it on the floor for like 10 seconds so it wears it out a lil so u dont eat the mud up. Good luck


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

They are the best sanders out there. No matter what they cost. They are expensive, but worth it for speed and quality. (when you learn to use them) There is a bit of a learning curve to keep the swirls to a minimum. Tried one of the LoveLess sanders.  Not worth the bucks.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I have a question regarding the thread topic.

What would be the average time taken with one man to sand out 10,000 sqft using this equipment?


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

A little less than an hour with the power sander and a half hour with light and sponge.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Mudstar said:


> I have a question regarding the thread topic.
> 
> What would be the average time taken with one man to sand out 10,000 sqft using this equipment?


We don't figure in sq/ft here, and being so deep in the recipe, i don't much care to break out the calculater to figure it out. I do know that two guys can sand over 500 brds per day with a cpl PC's


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

tricounty dwall said:


> and also when i put a new pad on i always run it on the floor for like 10 seconds so it wears it out a lil so u dont eat the mud up.


My method was running it up and down a metal cornerbead a few times to take the grit off a little.

Then I took the Capt's advice and used the screens. No more PC sanding pads for me :thumbsup:


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

Tim0282 said:


> A little less than an hour with the power sander and a half hour with light and sponge.


i dont know about a hour and a half.. thats got to be a bad man because 10,000 sf is roughly 200 boards. i man should be able to machine that and block it in about 6 hours. 2 guys should do 400 boards a day at least


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

If you spent six hours with a Porter Cable power sander, there sould be no skim coat left on the wall.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

im talking about 1 man on 200 boards maching it and blocking in and detailing it.. he said 1 1/2. the must be superman sanding LLC lol


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

and if u read all of the post u would see it said that.:whistling2:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Oh, I wonder who that moron is who said he could sand a house in an hour....


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

haha i dont know. but if u rush the sanding u will mess up a house big time. U can have the best finishing and a sander can ruin it. but captn i went on all wall and didn't see the sanding scrrens for the machine. I had subs that sanded and used them. But i couldn't ever find them


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

You are very right. I should tell you, I was the smart alec that said an hour and a half.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

tricounty dwall said:


> haha i dont know. but if u rush the sanding u will mess up a house big time. U can have the best finishing and a sander can ruin it. but captn i went on all wall and didn't see the sanding scrrens for the machine. I had subs that sanded and used them. But i couldn't ever find them


You won't find em in their catalogue. CALL THEM and ask for the screens by Johnson Abrasive's. And a plus,,, they are like 1/2 the price of pads. Just put em over an old pad, don't buy the new rubber pad they sell for em, they suck.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> You won't find em in their catalogue. CALL THEM and ask for the screens by Johnson Abrasive's. And a plus,,, *they are like 1/2 the price of pads*. Just put em over an old pad, don't buy the new rubber pad they sell for em, they suck.


A 25 pack of screens was $42, I just ordered some last weekend. ($1.68 each)

Seems like the last time I got PC pads it was $35 or something for 5 ($7.00 each)

You can see where I am going with this 

And if treated properly, the screens last nearly as long as the pads


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I've had trouble with the foam breaking down so fast on them. Wondering if I have bought the wrong kind or something.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

if u like the sanding disc go to all wall and order the foam backer pad and disc. they are like 1.00 each. Sherwin williams also carries them( in Sc at least). 
maybe i can get them to carry the screens. but if u use the disc cut a x in the center or it will suck to the wall


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## TheToolDr (Nov 27, 2009)

*Joest works*



robert seke said:


> Guys, for those of you looking to achieve a level 5 finish with P/C, trust me and try the Joest 220 and 320 grit discs. I promise you will be amazed at the end result. You can order these from All-Wall or Fantastic Tools if you wish..... TRUST ME YOU WONT BE DISAPPOINTED!!


Good advice- the Joest product has pretty much eliminated the "scratching" issues. Good selection can be seen at 
http://www.all-wall.com/Joest-PC7800-Discs-25-Pack


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

nd while were talking about sanding. I bought a sander from king drywall sanders, It had a bigger shaft and was supposed to be better. DO not get one of them> id rather pole sand than use that one. I used it for 5 minutes. Just letting yall know not to waste ur $$ like i did


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Tri County.... I did the same thing! You are so right!! They don't hold a candle to PC. Hard to use, gouges the wall. The cable is way too stiff. Can't keep the pad on the wall.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

Yep. and was supposed to have more rpm's. but turned 1/3 of the speed and power as porter cable. Yeah id hate for anyone else to waste there money on that.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

So tell me,why did you and I spend our hard earned money on one?? Why didn't we let someone else tell US they were a waste of money?


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

we were the guinea pigs to test them. maybe i can pawn mine lol. and another tip on sanding. After i sand a house i take a blower and blow all of the corners out. Thats the best way to get it out especially in the tops.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

It is amazing they are still in business. 
Good idea on blowing out the corners.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

yea it works good. U know a painter runs in and just sprays so i get it out so u dont have to scrape it out on point up.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Good thinking!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I want to try to clear an issue up here

1) there are velcro screens and pads (they suck)
2) there are screens (they are good)
3) they sell foam backing pads for screens (they suck)
4) If you use an old sanding pad for a back-up pad behind a screen, you are SANDING !!!!!!!

Just wanted to make sure we are all talking about the same things, ya know???


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Without seeing one, I can't figure out how the screen stays in place on the old sanding pad. Doesn't it spin? I agree with you that those velcro type pads are bad. They break down really fast.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> Without seeing one, I can't figure out how the screen stays in place on the old sanding pad. Doesn't it spin? I agree with you that those velcro type pads are bad. They break down really fast.


Have you seen a drywall screen for a sanding pole??? they look the same, cept they are round to fit the PC. You just put em on over an old sanding pad by PC (sucky pads) and commese to sanding.

May be some lost in transistion. You just unscrew the nut (with old pad still on) lay a screen on top, then re-screw the nut. It really is that easy.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Have you seen a drywall screen for a sanding pole??? they look the same, cept they are round to fit the PC. You just put em on over an old sanding pad by PC (sucky pads) and commese to sanding.
> 
> May be some lost in transistion. You just unscrew the nut (with old pad still on) lay a screen on top, then re-screw the nut. It really is that easy.


And as I found out, don't screw the nut on too tight. With just the pad I'd screw the nut until I couldn't turn it anymore. With the screen pad combo just tighten it enough so the nut is below the plane of the screen and no more or the screen will buckle up.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I have always had good luck with the PC sander pads. They are just expensive.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

wnybassman said:


> And as I found out, don't screw the nut on too tight. With just the pad I'd screw the nut until I couldn't turn it anymore. With the screen pad combo just tighten it enough so the nut is below the plane of the screen and no more or the screen will buckle up.


Thanks for adding that, I forgot to memtion it.

And to answer the slipping issue:

The screen WILL NOT slip on the pad. The screen will NEVER slip on the pad. The screen will stay put, right where you left it,,, LOL


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Warehouse Bay carries them. Just wondering which grit you use. Usually use 150 in the PC pads.

https://www.warehousebay.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=24

50-33834 Screen-Kut Mesh Discs, 120 grit (25 pack) $42.95


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Tim0282 said:


> Warehouse Bay carries them. Just wondering which grit you use. Usually use 150 in the PC pads.
> 
> https://www.warehousebay.com/catalog/index.php?manufacturers_id=24
> 
> 50-33834 Screen-Kut Mesh Discs, 120 grit (25 pack) $42.95


I was a fan of the 120 grit for the PC pads.

I seem to get along with both the 150 and 180 grits of the screens. 180 is what I just ordered and received.

I ordered from Warehouse Bay both times I ordered. Also, both times within a day of my order (three months apart though) I had my debit card number stolen and used. You might want to take this into consideration when ordering from there, not saying at all it is their site's security but it seemed awfully coincidental!!

I might just order from All-Wall next time.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Wow! I've ordered from Warehouse Bay for many years and never had a problem. Sorry to hear that! Thanks for the tip on the grit. Do you feel the screen is more course or less course than sandpaper?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> Wow! I've ordered from Warehouse Bay for many years and never had a problem. Sorry to hear that! Thanks for the tip on the grit. Do you feel the screen is more course or less course than sandpaper?


Tim, I used 120 grit on the pads and I use 180 grit on the screens,, (150 if I'm sanding behind someone that leaves ALOT of trash). I usually order a box of each, and they last me nearly a year. Thats not only cheaper, but it goes farther.


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