# Safe to use Durabond



## Citation03 (Oct 14, 2018)

So I came across a customer that has a hallway that looks like it was built by someone who had no idea what a level or tape measure was. Having access to only one side of the wall forced me to use shims, but haven’t helped much. The customer wants to fix the high a low spots using mud rather then trying to plane the the studs. Some portions are off by almost a half inch. My question is... do you think durabond would still resist cracking, even though I would need to apply so much? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I’m currently trying to figure out how to determine which portions are high and low. There is so many doors it’s hard to get my level over a big enough span to see anything.

This project has discouraged me from ever doing another reno. I have been spoiled by a custom home builder who’s framer is almost always spot on. 

Thanks in advance for y’all help!!!


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

A good straight edge will help determine where the problem areas are. It is almost always much quicker and cheaper to remove the sheetrock, fix the framing, and reinstall the sheetrock. Sometimes you can remove the screws from indented areas and allow the sheetrock to naturally straighten itself out, away from the bad studs. You can then drill some holes in the sheetrock over the badly indented studs and squirt in a bunch of drywall adhesive. This will solidify the floating sheetrock. (liquid shims.) But if you can't do that, then a plastering rod, or feather edge in a 3'-6'- length may be necessary. And a LOT of Durabond or Smoothset. And screed the wall straight and flat.


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