# Pro Form quick set lite



## gotmud (Mar 21, 2011)

Anyone use it? My supply house gave me a bag of 90 to try.
I have always used USG hotmuds but I gotta say after using it today I was impressed.
Definately has more glue than USG and goes on tighter.:thumbsup:


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Love the stuff only hotmud I use smooth and creamy like using plus3 so easy to work with .


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

4 - 5 years ago the local supplies carried stay smooth 90 since then they have started to carry whatever they can make $ on . I'm ok with the pro-form ,,but the Ruco sucks . I like the ss90 a very consistent hod mud.
sheetrock easy sand I use a lot of because It's easy to find here ,,but I still prefer stay smooth.I have not seen a brown bag of dura-bond in years...that's a hot-mud:yes::yes:


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

A salesman gave a contractor around 50 bags of pro form mud about 2 years ago. He told us we could use it I used 1 bag of 90 didn't like the way it flaked off the wall when flaring edges. Next job we were doing a bunch of patches mixed a half bag of pro form 45 and a half bag of sheetrock 90 sheetrock 90 set up twice as fast as the profrom. and the proform 45 also peeled off when flaring edges. I told him I didn't want any more of his junk mud. He wound up pitching the rest of the bags in dumpster probably 45 bags all assorted times.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cdwoodcox said:


> A salesman gave a contractor around 50 bags of pro form mud about 2 years ago. He told us we could use it I used 1 bag of 90 didn't like the way it flaked off the wall when flaring edges. Next job we were doing a bunch of patches mixed a half bag of pro form 45 and a half bag of sheetrock 90 sheetrock 90 set up twice as fast as the profrom. and the proform 45 also peeled off when flaring edges. I told him I didn't want any more of his junk mud. He wound up pitching the rest of the bags in dumpster probably 45 bags all assorted times.


They will ALL flake when cutting tight ..That's hot mud on top of hot mud no getting around the flaking . A/P on top of hot mud still flakes ..


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

moore said:


> They will ALL flake when cutting tight ..That's hot mud on top of hot mud no getting around the flaking . A/P on top of hot mud still flakes ..


 I have never had that issue with sheetrock quickset. All purpose yes, but not their quickset.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cdwoodcox said:


> I have never had that issue with sheetrock quickset. All purpose yes, but not their quickset.


I had flaking today with USG after the patch had set for 2 days with heat!
hot mud on hot mud is a bitch! sometimes I think a/p would be easier ,and faster ,,without the freakin hassle ..just when ya think the patch is done ..the mud peels up ..then I have to wait for it set up enough to touch up.:furious:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> hot mud is a bitch! sometimes I think a/p would be easier ,and faster ,,without the freakin hassle ..


Your starting to catch on:whistling2::jester::thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Your starting to catch on:whistling2::jester::thumbsup:


Ya know, after all these years..I think your right .. sometimes:blink:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

At the plant we used the USG brand TufSet and EasySand, both of the 45 min variety. We switched to the ProForm High Strength and Lightweight for a short time.

*USG Hotmuds*
​The USG hotmuds tend to get nasty when nearing the end of the usability, you start getting little chunks and stuff in it. 
​From the time you mix till the time it goes off USG slowly gets stiffer and stiffer.
​TufSet: dark gray in color. EasySand: lighter gray

*ProForm HotMuds*
​ProForm stuff felt, smelled, and worked like bucket mud. 
​White in color when mixed and VERY white when dry. We had to add some chalk to it for touch-ups.
​Stayed workable right up till it went off, then BAM!
​High Strength: White in color Lite:White in color

Both companies HS muds were quite hard after curing. However, for sheer PITA to scrape, the ProForm HS wins hands down! Not only was it extremely hard after setting, not to mention curing. It also seemed to soak into the paper more/better (more glue?). Even seemed to make the paper tougher. If you had something you needed to scrape.... All you could do was kick yourself in the arse.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Your starting to catch on:whistling2::jester::thumbsup:


Except......if I remember correctly moore is working jobs with no heat:blink:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Except......if I remember correctly moore is working jobs with no heat:blink:


Weather ap mud or hotmud, you should still have heat, They both do strange things when the walls are cold. Just read the side of a mud box, there's a recommended temperature your to use the product in, but I'm sure there's some on here who just think those are guide lines :whistling2:

To me, it's more about the job SIZE, not the temperature , if it's a tiny job, sure, use hot mud. But if it's a large job, why bother, any task you do will be dry the next day (b/c you should have proper heat) so why bother with hot mud then, your just wasting your time.

There's a time and a place for ap mud and hotmuds, but they both require proper heat:yes:

Plus Moore carries around his own heater, he should be posting a picture of it any minute now:jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Your hotmuds sound like junk. Ours are nothing like what you describe, No lumps when setting and its slow setting, no sudden setting and no flaking, Very low shrinkage.

Here is our range of muds.

http://www.gib.co.nz/compounds-plasters/

And here is a bag of hotmud, World class stuff by the sounds of your hotmud.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> Your hotmuds sound like junk. Ours are nothing like what you describe, No lumps when setting and its slow setting, no sudden setting and no flaking, Very low shrinkage.
> 
> Here is our range of muds.
> 
> ...


:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Plus Moore carries around his own heater, he should be posting a picture of it any minute now:jester:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> Your hotmuds sound like junk. Ours are nothing like what you describe, No lumps when setting and its slow setting, no sudden setting and no flaking, Very low shrinkage.
> 
> Here is our range of muds.
> 
> ...


Ats a big bag o hot mud lad!! 20Kg!!!!!!!! 
What kind o cash u payin a bag for the 20Kg bag? I got a shock the day with the invoice i got in!!!
We get 8Kg bags,and with carriage sent 2 me its sittin at £10.50 a bag:furious:
Its bullsh*t over here and they know it!! F*ck i stay in SCOTLAND:thumbsup:And if u stay down south (ENGLAND) i would pay £6 a Bag:blink: If not less!!
The thing is i am sayin is the company that supplies me has maybe 300+ miles 2 get 2 me in Scotland and the same company has the same miles 2 get 2 there order in england so why do i get dumped with the £100 delivery charge
But if i stayed in England i get no charge!!!!Time i moved


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Its $30.50 per 20kg bag vanman, Cheap stuff and goes a long way. Thats the trade price, $38 retail. Very good through the homax.

The 15kg buckets of AP are $36 for the trade, $44 retail. quite good value.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Well since were in a pissing contest now:whistling2: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/cgc-sheetrock-90-setting-type-joint-compound-11-kg-bag/911187
$17.89 for 11 kg bag
(vanman is $16.80 for 8 kg bag)

Now we just need a American to show how they get theirs for a 3rd of the price :whistling2:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Its $30.50 per 20kg bag vanman, Cheap stuff and goes a long way. Thats the trade price, $38 retail. Very good through the homax.
> 
> The 15kg buckets of AP are $36 for the trade, $44 retail. quite good value.


$26.22 (incl gst) per 20kg for me , you are getting your buckets cheaper than me though....$40.13 (incl gst)


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## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

cazna said:


> Its $30.50 per 20kg bag vanman, Cheap stuff and goes a long way. Thats the trade price, $38 retail. Very good through the homax.
> 
> The 15kg buckets of AP are $36 for the trade, $44 retail. quite good value.


 I've seen 15kg pails of all-purpose at Bunnings for about $30 NZD REATAIL I think thats about what I pay for it ,trade, through Placemakers.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> Its $30.50 per 20kg bag vanman, Cheap stuff and goes a long way. Thats the trade price, $38 retail. Very good through the homax.
> 
> The 15kg buckets of AP are $36 for the trade, $44 retail. quite good value.


17 Ltr tub of plus3 is about £13 sheet over here,but then u get the £100 cariage up 2 good old scotland( i usually buy a pallet at a time,56 pales)
This does help but google plus 3 filer in USA and have a look at their prices
Its crazy:blink:


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## Bazookaguy (Oct 24, 2011)

Ive noticed that most of the tapers on here, have a hard-on for hot mud. All I use it for is prefill on tubs and butts. or to prep a patch. other than that its AP for myself for obvious reasons. Is that all you have access to or what?


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Proform 45 $11.45 a bag lowes .sorry u asked :jester:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Hot mud 8 Kg $13 retail. easy sand usg
A/P 28 Kg usg $14 

N/G pro form a/p $12 a pail that's why they send me n/g 90% of the time
the ruco is very cheap ..there's a good reason why ...It's junk :yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I bought a bucket of easy-finish from Lowe's $10
It was like mixing a 5 gal bucket of hot mud that had set up.


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## gotmud (Mar 21, 2011)

Bazookaguy said:


> Ive noticed that most of the tapers on here, have a hard-on for hot mud. All I use it for is prefill on tubs and butts. or to prep a patch. other than that its AP for myself for obvious reasons. Is that all you have access to or what?


I will speak for myself here, I do a lot of smaller jobs remodels and such.
I can get two coats of 90 on before the AP even starts to go off.
As 2buck said, hotmuds and AP both have their place in taping.
If I can get in and out quicker with hotmud, then so be it.
When I am finishing basements and larger jobs then its USG AP (green lid) all the way except for prefill :thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Can't run hot mud through a zooka. so.................:whistling2:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Bazookaguy said:


> Ive noticed that most of the tapers on here, have a hard-on for hot mud. All I use it for is prefill on tubs and butts. or to prep a patch. other than that its AP for myself for obvious reasons. Is that all you have access to or what?


Out here in Beautiful British Columbia Synko Concrete Fill seems to be the norm for prefill on tubs and butts.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bazookaguy said:


> Ive noticed that most of the tapers on here, have a hard-on for hot mud. All I use it for is prefill on tubs and butts. or to prep a patch. other than that its AP for myself for obvious reasons. Is that all you have access to or what?


I think most production guys choose your route, because it's the quickest easiest way to get things done. Personally, I don't own a tape set, so for me the glass and hot mud is the way to get done quickest and easiest.

I know a guy who used to work for a large production outfit though that used to use 90 minute with retardant in it....4 hours before set up. They would run the auto tools with a pile of guys and tape/top in the same day. I guess they were cranking out houses in California or some such thing. He said his dad would spray texture on 5-6 houses a day. These guys were MAJOR production, with separate crews for nearly every phase of finish.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

moore said:


> I bought a bucket of easy-finish from Lowe's $10
> It was like mixing a 5 gal bucket of hot mud that had set up.


How did you like sanding it? Just finished a small job for a guy who bought a bucket of that, VERY thick to start out with, mixed and applied well enough, was a B!TCH to sand!



moore said:


> Can't run hot mud through a zooka. so.................:whistling2:


WHATUTALKINBOUT!?! I ran hot mud through a taper every day for nearly 6 years. Of course, we had a good cleaning station....


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

fr8train said:


> How did you like sanding it? Just finished a small job for a guy who bought a bucket of that, VERY thick to start out with, mixed and applied well enough, was a B!TCH to sand!
> 
> 
> 
> WHATUTALKINBOUT!?! I ran hot mud through a taper every day for nearly 6 years. Of course, we had a good cleaning station....


I don't find it hard to sand at all,,, I think the hardest sanding mud (round here) is black lid proform, I hate it. I use mostly that easy-finish from Blowes,,, it is thick,but water makes it thinner,,,lol. 

If your trying mud for the MAXIMUM workability,,, try the burgandy-lid from pro-form (machine grade),, not the same thing as the red-lid(mid-wieght).It is MY favorite mud for tool work,,, but since its 14 bucks and easy finish is 9 bucks,,,, well ya know,, since we use PC's, the sandability is a mute point anyway.

JMHO


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

We tape with USG green lid A/P ( the MAC variety), and we coat with LaFarge green-lid. The LaFarge says it's an A/P, but I wouldn't tape with it, more like a light weight. It sands out very nice though! Pole's just glide across it. 

The fact that I had a tough time sanding the Easy Finish stuff, might be from using it over hot mud. :blink: It was a last minute emergency job (small kitchen remod), started Tuesday evening, had to done by Friday, it needed painted, and the cabinets were coming Sat. morning. It was the job that I posted pics of in the TotW thread. The one with all the gaps...


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## Bazookaguy (Oct 24, 2011)

Thanks for the responses guys. Like I mentioned before, about how common it gets discussed here, that maybe someone knows something that I dont. I know that alot of the plaster guys around here use it for everything. b/c there arent that many plaster products available out there. but they also texture their walls. and I personally hate the $!!!. Its a pain in the ass to work with other than for prefill and patchwork. I haul around extra tools for mixing up batchs, b/c it sucks to clean your tools when your finished using it!.

There was a certain DW contractor around here that called me about doing a job that was way, way behind. like 3 months behind schedule, but its a long story about my conversation with this guy. His name is bob, and he's a former rocker/framer turned job estimator who thinks he knows it all. but after my conversation w/ bob, I called an hourly guy who works for them about our conversation and he replyed saying " yea, boobie has a hard on for hotmud". and I about choked on my coffee when he said that! So I hope I didnt offend anyone by what I posted. I apologize if I did.


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