# Misinformation



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

When hanging sheetrock, it is always best to put a cut edge against the factory rolled recess (this works best for 12' sheets).
One should never add water to drywall mud. Adding water just makes it messy.
When using lightweight finishing mud, *always* sand with 80 grit sandpaper.
There *is* such a thing as a board stretcher, please do not start hanging until you've procured one.

Please feel free to add any more advice for newcomers to the trade and homeowners looking to save a buck or two:jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

hey!!!!!! you put all the bead on upside down


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Mesh is just as good as paper
Lightwieght mud is great for tapeing 
Set you beads squarely on the floor, makes the baseboard fit better
Hot mud DRIES faster


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

at $13+ a can texture in a can is really a great deal 
________
WEB SHOWS


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

sweep up the sanding dust from the floor and mix it in with your old smelly mud in the bottom of your water bucket,then apply it to 1st coat on your beads or......
to save on buckets,mix your mud right in the box your mud came in
oh !!!! hold on,this was real advise given on this site
I won't name names,merry xmas:whistling2::jester:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Anyone can hang drywall. It don't matter what it looks like. The taper will fix it.:furious:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

The BUTTAPER is the BEST tool invention drywall has ever seen

P.S. I think I win the contest!!!!!


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> sweep up the sanding dust from the floor and mix it in with your old smelly mud in the bottom of your water bucket,then apply it to 1st coat on your beads or......
> to save on buckets,mix your mud right in the box your mud came in
> oh !!!! hold on,this was real advise given on this site
> I won't name names,merry xmas:whistling2::jester:


Yeah right,, You are just making stuff up,,, no one could be that stupid,,,


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Manufacturers recommend that all butt joints be placed near windows. This is meant to include ceiling joints, which should always be in a direct line of sight between the entrance door and said window. 

Also, all ceiling butt joints should line up on the same joist/truss, it's stronger and makes for easier finishing. This can also be applied to walls.

You'll get your mesh tape on a lot faster if you purchase and use a drywall taping banjo. Runny mud works best. (I think this one wins the contest!)


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## jmr (Mar 22, 2010)

Rock right over the flange on the tub stall, that way you don't have all that messy pre filling..


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

leave all your nails and screws sticking out,and let the taper adjust them to his liking.
hold on,it's like that now:jester::whistling2:


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> leave all your nails and screws sticking out,and let the taper adjust them to his liking.
> hold on,it's like that now:jester::whistling2:


I just laughed so hard,I crapped myself


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> leave all your nails and screws sticking out,and let the taper adjust them to his liking.
> hold on,it's like that now:jester::whistling2:


Oh so thats a global thing then, I thought we were the only ones lucky enough to get that..........


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> sweep up the sanding dust from the floor and mix it in with your old smelly mud in the bottom of your water bucket,then apply it to 1st coat on your beads or......
> to save on buckets,mix your mud right in the box your mud came in
> oh !!!! hold on,this was real advise given on this site
> I won't name names,merry xmas:whistling2::jester:


Not to save on buckets, but to save time. You'll get the hang of it one day! haha

*OT:
Always place full length butt joints to the left or right of doors instead of over them to avoid cracking. (We tapers love this.)*

*Pro tapers use a leaf blower to blow all of the dust out of rooms in between coats and after sanding.*


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Checkers said:


> Not to save on buckets, but to save time. You'll get the hang of it one day! haha
> 
> *OT:
> Always place full length butt joints to the left or right of doors instead of over them to avoid cracking. (We tapers love this.)*
> ...


ah ha,,,, all in good fun.....got you to post:thumbup:
but now you got me wondering if you use a leaf blower:jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Well speaking of leaf blowers, I have been known to get one out and open the doors and windows and give the house one hell of a blow job after sanding and before painting, sure makes the house easier and cleaner to paint with no dust around the floors and windows. :thumbsup: And the HO and carpet layers like it as well.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

2 in the field is plenty (even on ceilings) those silly screws are over rated !!
________
Web shows


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Well speaking of leaf blowers, I have been known to get one out and open the doors and windows and give the house one hell of a blow job after sanding and before painting, sure makes the house easier and cleaner to paint with no dust around the floors and windows. :thumbsup: And the HO and carpet layers like it as well.


lol,do you know what the term blow job means in canuck and yank slang,oh my god cazna,you made love to a house.
and your gay too


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> lol,do you know what the term blow job means in canuck and yank slang,oh my god cazna,you made love to a house.
> and your gay too


Like [email protected]#K im Gay, Didnt know it ment that one??? But like pulling and rooting for you then, And blow job means gettin some head here, I put that in to see who would be first to take the piss, and no surprise its you :thumbsup::jester:

Let me rephrase that then, Sometimes i give the the house a blow OUT with a leaf blower??? Hows that then, Or has that got something to do with banging sheep as well Mr my cousin is Santa so be nice to me :thumbup:


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

GC's are the most knowledgable people on site. If you have any questions about how to do your job ( or any job )....ask them:thumbsup:

Heat is a luxury not a necessity


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

If you're thinking of starting a hanging crew, you'll need at least four guys for even the smallest jobs. One guy holds the t-square, one guy makes the cut, and the other two guys are holding it up on the wall.


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## ns005 (Dec 23, 2010)

Homeowner says "You know, I could finish this basement myself. I just called you because you are faster and you wont need to sand as much. I already put on some of the cornerbead and spotted some of the screws so that should save me some money and you some time."

Finsher looks around at the crooked bead that has been nailed on with roofing nails and been mudded with a 4 inch plastic knife. Takes another look around and sees gobs of mud on the wall which appear to be covering screws, smacks himself in the forehead and says "Sure you can." :blink: 

The homeowner reassures the finisher that he did a good job because he used quickset.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

ns005 said:


> Homeowner says "You know, I could finish this basement myself. I just called you because you are faster and you wont need to sand as much. I already put on some of the cornerbead and spotted some of the screws so that should save me some money and you some time."
> 
> Finsher looks around at the crooked bead that has been nailed on with roofing nails and been mudded with a 4 inch plastic knife. Takes another look around and sees gobs of mud on the wall which appear to be covering screws, smacks himself in the forehead and says "Sure you can." :blink:
> 
> The homeowner reassures the finisher that he did a good job because he used quickset.


bit off topic but
never never ever do a job for someone who says "I'd do it myself but...." just leave,a whole new thread could be started on that sentence alone


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## ns005 (Dec 23, 2010)

haha we have all prob been there


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## ns005 (Dec 23, 2010)

i could rephrase it and say 

Homeowners can do the same quality of work as a finisher. It just takes them longer and they have to sand more.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

ns005 said:


> Finsher looks around at the crooked bead that has been nailed on with roofing nails and been mudded with a 4 inch plastic knife.


Is that the guy who loaded the bead sideways and left those big ridges every three inches, the ones that stand out from the bead 1/2"? I KNOW that guy!


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I missed a couple of outlets , it should only take a couple extra minutes to fix... I checked to make sure ALL THE SCREWS WERE IN WITH A SIX INCH KNIFE.... Don"t need a nailer in those inside corners tape will hold it.. Cut the sheet about an 1-1/2" short a little prefill will work just fine. The b i g g e s t is the taper will fix it:furious:.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Why does it cost more to do a light orange peel or knock down you only put one coat over the tape and one over the beads and screws. and u don't have to sand it.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

You know you can fill holes in the walls with toothpaste it works just fine.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I have some mud left over from a previous job out in the garage so you won't have to buy as much. It should still be good they left it here 5 years ago when our home was taped.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Use these galvanized deck screws I don't want any rust coming through the paint.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Leave the thermometer set at 40 degrees that is plenty warm to dry out your mud.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> I missed a couple of outlets , it should only take a couple extra minutes to fix... I checked to make sure ALL THE SCREWS WERE IN WITH A SIX INCH KNIFE.... Don"t need a nailer in those inside corners tape will hold it.. Cut the sheet about an 1-1/2" short a little prefill will work just fine. The b i g g e s t is the taper will fix it:furious:.





silverstilts said:


> Why does it cost more to do a light orange peel or knock down you only put one coat over the tape and one over the beads and screws. and u don't have to sand it.





silverstilts said:


> You know you can fill holes in the walls with toothpaste it works just fine.





silverstilts said:


> I have some mud left over from a previous job out in the garage so you won't have to buy as much. It should still be good they left it here 5 years ago when our home was taped.





silverstilts said:


> Use these galvanized deck screws I don't want any rust coming through the paint.





silverstilts said:


> Leave the thermometer set at 40 degrees that is plenty warm to dry out your mud.


How could I have forgotten any of these? You are a treasure trove of valuable and helpful information....new contractors and homeowners alike owe you a huge debt of gratitude...:yes::whistling2:


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Make sure to light check after prime with a 500 watt halogen after the sun has been down and its pitch dark out. This will tell you just how well its been finished by the taper:hang:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Oh...when you're using setting compounds, the number on the bag is the number of minutes you're supposed to let it sit after mixing. This will give the best consistency to work with.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

Looks good from my house


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

you can't cover that? the tape is 2" wide isn't it?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Painters see drywall as a skilled trade


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## ns005 (Dec 23, 2010)

drywallers see painting as a skilled trade...


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

ns005 said:


> drywallers see painting as a skilled trade...[/QUOTE
> :ban:ns005....:jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

All purpose is good for coving, dont waste your time mixing that setting rubbish.


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## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

Stack your sheets directly on the ground to prevent cracking in the flat, when a sheet is to long dont feel bad about putting the rouder in the buttjoint to shorten it. Allways sand the paper not the mudd burning the board is the style at the time. and most important allways step on the white side of the sheet before installing so you can tell everyone that you'vv walked upside down on the ceiling.. haha


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## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

If I cant see it from my house it dont matter


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Drywall_King said:


> and most important allways step on the white side of the sheet before installing so you can tell everyone that you'vv walked upside down on the ceiling..


This is especially important in fire-taped garages. Also, in fire-taped garages, large numbers should be written all over the sheets. This is widely considered to be vernacular art (in addition to notes like "painters suck", and "limp bizkit rulz" and ......"2Buck was here":jester


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> If you're thinking of starting a hanging crew, you'll need at least four guys for even the smallest jobs. One guy holds the t-square, one guy makes the cut, and the other two guys are holding it up on the wall.



Just saw this today! One guy cutting, and THREE waiting on benches to hang 5/8" on a 10' lid...


Hangers put the screws in, it's up to the tapers to decide how deep they prefer them.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Checkers said:


> Just saw this today! One guy cutting, and THREE waiting on benches to hang 5/8" on a 10' lid...


And the 'cut man' carries it over, right? :laughing:

Addendum: Every hanging crew needs a dedicated cut man, a swinging d1ck who knows he's too important to waste time actually installing the sheetrock, even if it means he's sitting around waiting for numbers. As the cut man, your primary responsibility is to interpret "called" numbers how you see fit...in general this means taking an extra 1/4" off so the tapers have a big enough gap to pre-fill. A cut man's responsibility is also to use a rasp thoroughly enough to leave enough face paper flapping around that the joint can be taped with it.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Our field supervisor saw this on a jobsite the other day, being done by tapers from another company, and wants all of us to start doing it, as he figures it's what's needed to get REal quality: One taper coating/sanding while another holds a light for him.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Home owner; my dad used to be a spackler. he said you can clean your bead edge with a brick,ever tried that? Me; no I,m not a "spackler" I,m a drywaller


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Single Layer of 1/2 makes for a Perfect dome!!!!


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Only in Texas--right Steve?


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Only on cheap jobs John,,, which leads us into L4 is not L4 but L8


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

cazna said:


> Like [email protected]#K im Gay, Didnt know it ment that one??? But like pulling and rooting for you then, And blow job means gettin some head here, I put that in to see who would be first to take the piss, and no surprise its you :thumbsup::jester:
> 
> Let me rephrase that then, Sometimes i give the the house a blow OUT with a leaf blower??? Hows that then, Or has that got something to do with banging sheep as well Mr my cousin is Santa so be nice to me :thumbup:


We are taking about butt joints and not butt jobs right?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> Home owner; my dad used to be a spackler. he said you can clean your bead edge with a brick,ever tried that? Me; no I,m not a "spackler" I,m a drywaller


That settles it, I'm throwing away all of my sanding sponges and buying a couple of bricks. And changing the name of my business to something like "Sparkling Spackling...the trick is in the brick!"


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## CLUTCHSTEVENS (Mar 6, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Mesh is just as good as paper
> Lightwieght mud is great for tapeing
> Set you beads squarely on the floor, makes the baseboard fit better
> Hot mud DRIES faster


 I disagree, mesh tape is for angles and screws, all screws must be mesh taped before coating.


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

Once had a contractor spray all his showers with wd 40 so my mud would just flake off exteroir of tub when done mudding. Problem was the mud wouldn't stick anywhere we prefilled it mud dried and just flaked off. All of it.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

CLUTCHSTEVENS said:


> I disagree, mesh tape is for angles and screws, all screws must be mesh taped before coating.


I saw mesh taped screws for the first time a month ago while doing some demo, and I was flabbergasted. And then I actually had to go and do it myself a couple of days ago

Scenario: 5/8 sheetrock over 2" rigid foam over OSB. Carpenters had used 3-1/8 exterior #25 torx screws. I brought some 3" drywall screws I had laying around and tried to get them in, but they wouldn't hit anything. Pulled one of their screws to make sure they weren't using something longer....nope. Long story short, every screw of theirs was pulled through the face, and my fasteners weren't working, and there wasn't the money or the time to go run and get some longer screws.....so.....I mesh taped all the screws, and sealed them on with hot mud and Superbond. :blink: I figured I was creating a new face paper and the adhesive added to the mud would make it bulletproof. I never would have imagined I could have done such a thing.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

when mixing hot mud/bag mud . use good clean bucket . put powder in first, then add water. makes for good clean mix. real creamy/ no lumps. after that you can remix as often as you like.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

when gluing sheet rock always wait till the last sheet is hung, then go back and screw all the fields. the glue sticks better this way.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Here's a really cool one. I was watching Bob Villa one day, and he was demonstrating a "dry-tape" banjo. He had one guy putting mud on both sides of angle with a 4" knife,,(cause they were using a dry-tape banjo). Then he had a guy pulling the "dry-tape" throught the banjo, and of course another guy wiping it down behind the "TAPER".

With my hand up,,, He really did that thing on TV


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I forgot about this one...

When you newer guys are using a router, there is a direction that you go around penetrations every time...you don't just plunge the thing in and go however you like.

1. Things that stick out of the surface (outlets, cans, etc), always go clockwise.

2. Penetrations in the surface (windows, doors, etc), always go counter-clockwise.

Now you won't have any more of those unsightly 1" gaps around your outlets.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> I forgot about this one...
> 
> When you newer guys are using a router, there is a direction that you go around penetrations every time...you don't just plunge the thing in and go however you like.
> 
> ...


I travel counterclockwise on all cuts whenever possible. Do our routers spin in opposite directions ? :whistling2: 
Both directions will work if you're real careful. Just make sure you don't snag some poly in behind that will throw you off line.
A lot of guys are pretty nervous their first few tries but a router is still the best way.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> I travel counterclockwise on all cuts whenever possible. Do our routers spin in opposite directions ? :whistling2:


shhhh! I was hoping someone would go out and try my method and then come back and curse me. 

You don't travel clockwise when doing windows? You can certainly do it counter, but it won't hug the framing as well. I'll break my "rule" on headers, when I'm just running up both sides and then scoring the back, but I like to stick with the direction that pulls the bit into the work.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> shhhh! I was hoping someone would go out and try my method and then come back and curse me.
> 
> You don't travel clockwise when doing windows? You can certainly do it counter, but it won't hug the framing as well. I'll break my "rule" on headers, when I'm just running up both sides and then scoring the back, but I like to stick with the direction that pulls the bit into the work.


LOL Sorry ! I forgot what thread this was. No, I always go CC. Just seems to work better for me.


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## DirtyMudder (Jun 23, 2012)

What a delightfully informative thread. Everyone knows that if you want something done right, you have to do it yourself. I've learned a few secrets from DIYers that I'll share:

Mike Homes knows how to tape.

Hang drywall with wood-screws because wood is what the drywall is being fastened to. Likewise, drywall-screws are for fastening pictures, mirrors, etc. to drywall.

A 4" plastic knife is the largest you'll need if you're good. Just keep coating and sanding.

Everyone has a brother-in-law who is better/ faster than you!

If you want extra insulation, the drywall will make sure R-20 batts fit into 2x4 stud-walls.

(My all time personal fav) Metal beads are for inside corners. The small holes are for drywall nails & the big holes are for drywall screws. Make sure every single hole in the bead has the appropriate fastener in it. (I knew this one was done right when it took me 4hrs to cut 2' out of each of the 4 corners done in this fashion.)

I've got plenty more, I just haven't decided whether or not I want to let all my secrets out.


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

mudslingr said:


> I travel counterclockwise on all cuts whenever possible. Do our routers spin in opposite directions ? :whistling2:
> Both directions will work if you're real careful. Just make sure you don't snag some poly in behind that will throw you off line.
> A lot of guys are pretty nervous their first few tries but a router is still the best way.


Iam a little late on reading this thread.Just joined a couple months ago.

Had a guy tell me that when you use a router on lids you go the opposite way than you do on the walls,because the router is upside down.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> iam a little late on reading this thread.just joined a couple months ago.
> 
> Had a guy tell me that when you use a router on lids you go the opposite way than you do on the walls,because the router is upside down.BR549


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Easy-Lite sheetrock is what you want. It's so easy to work with, and it's extremely durable.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Lance Armstrong is a legend.:jester:


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## CatD7 (Jul 25, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Mesh is just as good as paper
> Lightwieght mud is great for tapeing
> Set you beads squarely on the floor, makes the baseboard fit better
> Hot mud DRIES faster


 
I use mesh on all my flats.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

There are no Trolls at DWT. Just sheep haters :yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

certain tapers recomend you buy apla-tech there first set so you can really appreciate the cfs, and after that buy the Tapetech machine


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

eating burritos in the early morning is better so you wont pass gas till after work


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> eating burritos in the early morning is better so you wont pass gas till after work


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> scottktmrider said:
> 
> 
> > iam a little late on reading this thread.just joined a couple months ago.
> ...


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

hate to admit it but i've done this 1

when your hanging your bottom sheet and there just isn't enough room between the floor and top sheet just put your lifter under the sheet to get the mandatory 1/8 gap for the flooring hold the board against the wall and route along the bevel it will slide right in just step on the lifter screw she's good to go

just leave the frayed paper works like a bonding surface for the taper:whistling2::thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gordie said:


> hate to admit it but i've done this 1
> 
> when your hanging your bottom sheet and there just isn't enough room between the floor and top sheet just put your lifter under the sheet to get the mandatory 1/8 gap for the flooring hold the board against the wall and route along the bevel it will slide right in just step on the lifter screw she's good to go
> 
> just leave the frayed paper works like a bonding surface for the taper:whistling2::thumbsup:


 Yep!! your a hanger...:yes: That little trick works well on the ceilings to keep a run straight. but that frayed paper is a blister beneath the tape unless it's cut out. 
FLIP THE SHEET MAN!!! Cut the 1/4 off the bottom!! or:blink: ... measure out before hand..Rip off the top ..full on the bottom .No flipping the boards!:thumbsup:


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

moore said:


> Yep!! your a hanger...:yes: That little trick works well on the ceilings to keep a run straight. but that frayed paper is a blister beneath the tape unless it's cut out.
> FLIP THE SHEET MAN!!! Cut the 1/4 off the bottom!! or:blink: ... measure out before hand..Rip off the top ..full on the bottom .No flipping the boards!:thumbsup:


 I know did it on a lower unit had 4 window walls that were 54's 5/8's i cheated on though's all the 1/2 was ripred off the bottom and i did clean the paper.. In condos fliping those 54's is a pain in the ass. now i stack the 5/8 walls and start my lid off them.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gordie said:


> I know did it on a lower unit had 4 window walls that were 54's 5/8's i cheated on though's all the 1/2 was ripred off the bottom and i did clean the paper.. In condos fliping those 54's is a pain in the ass. now i stack the 5/8 walls and start my lid off them.


 I was flippin 54s Sunday Gordie....I feel ya Man!!:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gordie said:


> I know did it on a lower unit had 4 window walls that were 54's 5/8's i cheated on though's all the 1/2 was ripred off the bottom and i did clean the paper.. In condos fliping those 54's is a pain in the ass. now i stack the 5/8 walls and start my lid off them.


I know someone who wants some exercise:whistling2:

Post #8:thumbup: http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/flex-pc-sander-weight-3842/


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Easy-Lite sheetrock is what you want. It's so easy to work with, and it's extremely durable.


ya know slim I been thinking we should start a tool company called 
Marshmellowtown


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

moore said:


> I was flippin 54s Sunday Gordie....I feel ya Man!!:thumbup:


I flipped a couple today:yes: But most had the top sheet ripped:thumbsup: Good rips too.....1" to nothin on one of them, 1-1/4" to 2-3/8" on another :lol:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> ya know slim I been thinking we should start a tool company called
> Marshmellowtown


Aw sh!t Joe...that got a good laugh outta me.:yes::thumbsup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Aw sh!t Joe...that got a good laugh outta me.:yes::thumbsup:


:jester:


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> I flipped a couple today:yes: But most had the top sheet ripped:thumbsup: Good rips too.....1" to nothin on one of them, 1-1/4" to 2-3/8" on another :lol:


nice was the lid angled or the floor?


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

a 12" box is overkill.


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

You never need a drywall jack.Just take your hatchet drive it into the sheet and lift it up.That 3/4" gap in the butt joint is for expansion.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Those electric Palm Sanders are handy for sanding into the corners. :whistling2:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

gordie said:


> nice was the lid angled or the floor?


EVERYTHING!!

I seriously had to bust out the laser and a level just to find something.........ANYTHING to pull an accurate number off of.

Tomorrow is rips and wraps on the main and then the stairwell from hell. Maybe 8 or 9 8' sheets, but it's going to take a good long while. Crooked, old and new framing (some of the studs are so curved I couldn't even eyeball them to put screws in on the other side....kept missing the studs), and even a little strapping over foam over concrete. Good times ahead!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

When screwing sheets of drywall, the screws need to go just far enough into the paper to make the edges fuzzy.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

If you want your job done right,,,, Hire a Mexican









"Thefinisher"made me say it


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

It's allways a good sign if your new boss likes to meet at the pub especially to pay you and if hes shy because of "expenses" don't sweat it just have a beer he'll get ya next time.:jester:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

taper71 said:


> GC's are the most knowledgable people on site. If you have any questions about how to do your job ( or any job )....ask them:thumbsup:
> 
> Heat is a luxury not a necessity


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> When screwing sheets of drywall, the screws need to go just far enough into the paper to make the edges fuzzy.


 AND...every other field screw needs one these right beside it!:yes::thumbsup:


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

moore said:


> AND...every other field screw needs one these right beside it!:yes::thumbsup:


 Are they sheet rocking or playing DARTS.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Make sure to deduct all window and door openings when giving an estimate and figuring quantities of sheetrock.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

To save costs use all your scrap sheetrock up in the closets.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> To save costs use all your scrap sheetrock up in the closets.


Contrary to popular belief, more pieces makes for a better drywall assembly. Why do you think they used lath back in the old days?


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

It's okay to rock over canister lights because it makes it easier for the taper and the electrician knows exactly where they are at and do a very clean tight cut around them after the ceiling is textured.


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> Contrary to popular belief, more pieces makes for a better drywall assembly. Why do you think they used lath back in the old days?


And it pays better, that's why they call it piece rate!!


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Tapers get paid by the foot..... of tape


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

silverstilts said:


> It's okay to rock over canister lights because it makes it easier for the taper and the electrician knows exactly where they are at and do a very clean tight cut around them after the ceiling is textured.


Than give an apprentice a router and tell him to find the can light.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

L-5 finish on ceilings should be cheaper because it is not as much work, because you don't have to texture them.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> L-5 finish on ceilings should be cheaper because it is not as much work, because you don't have to texture them.


It's true. Smooth walls are the cheapest and easiest. I knock off at least 20% when the client wants it to go smooth. And I smile with relief


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

For marking any touchups its handy to always have a felt marker in your pocket for the job.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Carrying 10 sheets of l/w 4x12s [one man] into a house with 35 mph winds ..Is about the easiest task A man could ask for!:yes:


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

moore said:


> Carrying 10 sheets of l/w 4x12s [one man] into a house with 35 mph winds ..Is about the easiest task A man could ask for!:yes:


 Board packing in general is the gravy for all of us i think and it comes with the respect that goes with such an intellectual position.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> Why does it cost more to do a light orange peel or knock down you only put one coat over the tape and one over the beads and screws. and u don't have to sand it.


This use to be Misinformation for me 

Now idiot DWC expects a level 4 finish for knock down, without a rate increase :furious:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> This use to be Misinformation for me
> 
> Now idiot DWC expects a level 4 finish for knock down, without a rate increase :furious:


 fftopic:...


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

Can't speak for the rest of the world but out here in Canada us drywaller's are a tight community and won't under cut rates that's why they always stay the same with regular increases usually don't even have to ask:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gordie said:


> Can't speak for the rest of the world but out here in Canada us drywaller's are a tight community and won't under cut rates that's why they always stay the same with regular increases usually don't even have to ask:whistling2:


guess you have never been to Ontario

So what rate are you getting, I was thinking about heading out your way:whistling2:


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> guess you have never been to Ontario
> 
> So what rate are you getting, I was thinking about heading out your way:whistling2:


 actually it"s good 2 buck 30c for board and 35 for tape if you come out here ill intro you to a few companies there all looking it slowed right down cuz this winter is so [email protected]#ing cold so most guys are behind and things are pickin right up. :thumbup:


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

That reminds me i moved from Kelowna B.C. to Regina Saskatewan for the great weather and scenery:wallbash:


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

On the bottom sheet ,make sure to keep the bottom screw just above where the top of the base is.This way the taper will have to set the nail spotter down and bend over to do them by hand,and keep those base nails as high as you can!!


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Hey PT you should get one and do a better video. :blink:

Cazna - you dont have one of these tools yet - come on.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

A lot of guys think that No-coat actually needs to be coated even though the name says otherwise. In reality, just put it on there with some lightweight topping and it's done. Don't waste your time coating it.

This also applies to Magic Corner by Trim-Tex. That stuff sits so flat to the wall/ceiling you don't even need to coat it. :mellow:


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