# First crack at auto tools.....as requested.....



## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Well. Finally got up some drywall to play with. And of course....against 2bucks advice, went straight for the zooker. After watching your vids over and over I think I got it down so I started with ceiling flats. I shot a crappy video until my phone ran out of memory so its a bit short.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Now....how to add a link from YouTube from iPhone ? Search bazooka rookie. May not be available yet for a few.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Still being processed.............


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

What's your YouTube user name?


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

007campbell


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Here you go!


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Here you go!
> http://youtu.be/tSDRLzZJWU0


How did U do that.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

jcampbell said:


> How did U do that.


I'm pretty amazing :jester:
If you just copy and paste this "http://youtu.be/tSDRLzZJWU0" 
You can re-edit your first post for people to see it.


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

The place isn't even hung yet. I think you have an auto tool addiction forming:yes:. Nice job!


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Only had the board to hang the lid. For some reason it takes almost 2 weeks to get 54" 12'ers ?. I shoot something better next week when we get it all up.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> The place isn't even hung yet. I think you have an auto tool addiction forming:yes:. Nice job!


Yes sir!!!!!!! Really bad.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Yep ! Just a little anxious. :thumbsup:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I don't know why I can't get the video to embed so you can watch it from DWT...
Anybody else having problems with this?
It's usually always worked for me, but I noticed this for the last video I tried posting as well.
Only the link popped up and not the actual video on the screen.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Tried out the homax on the butts .... That's a pretty cool tool for the price other than cutting the tape. Too bad it didn't have some way to cut the tape other than using a taping knife. I got it figured out after a while.


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I don't know why I can't get the video to embed so you can watch it from DWT...
> Anybody else having problems with this?
> It's usually always worked for me, but I noticed this for the last video I tried posting as well.
> Only the link popped up and not the actual video on the screen.


I haven't figured it out yet since the took away the long link option. If you figure it out PM me.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

It worked the same way all the vids on here work? On my phone that is.........


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

....


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

sorry, double posted for some reason.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I haven't figured it out yet since the took away the long link option. If you figure it out PM me.


I'll keep you posted



Mudslingr said:


> There ya go !
> 
> Take the link and I'll delete this one.



Testing testing





Okay...if I copy your link it works Mudslingr, but what did you do to get that link exactly?
It's not working the way it used too for me.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

How did you do that? None of the vids that I posted testing the Fuse would embed.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

gazman said:


> How did you do that? None of the vids that I posted testing the Fuse would embed.



Leave out the" http://". Start from the "www". And look near the end for " &feature.......". Leave it out too.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

As you probably know Youtube has been screwing with things as always so you might have to fiddle around a bit. I also find the links seem to change not long after uploading. 20 minutes or so.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Got it thanks. I'll make a quick video to show people how to embed them the new way. Based on your help.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)




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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

That was great Brian. Thanks for showing us how to embed a video and glad you zoomed in as that helped a lot. A big thanks to mudslingr as well. :thumbsup:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> That was great Brian. Thanks for showing us how to embed a video and glad you zoomed in as that helped a lot. A big thanks to mudslingr as well. :thumbsup:


No prob! You can see the writing a little better if you watch it in 1080 and fullscreen.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Thanks PT and Mudslingr:thumbsup:.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

You don't have to click the "Like" button to share, just to the right of it, there is a button for "Share", click that. Gives you the short URL.

I think the owners of this site need to update the forum to allow the short URLs to work.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Easiest way I found now........

Watch a vid on YouTube. at the very top of the screen where you type in a website that you want to visit, such as "www.youtube.com" the address for the youtube vid that you are watching is in there, copy and paste that.

Works for me


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)




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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> How did you do that? None of the vids that I posted testing the Fuse would embed.


When i did my vids, I loaded, Then being all excited as soon as it loaded tryed to post, Wouldnt work, Only the link came up, Tryed it again a few hrs later and it worked, It posted the vid not the link, All by copy and paste.............So for me i have to wait after loading, Just how long i dont know?? But i gotta wait for a bit after loading, Then post, Maybe u tube needs time to sort it self?? Maybe every half hr??


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Easiest way I found now........
> 
> Watch a vid on YouTube. at the very top of the screen where you type in a website that you want to visit, such as "www.youtube.com" the address for the youtube vid that you are watching is in there, copy and paste that.
> 
> Works for me



Bingo !


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Playing around with the taper a bit more today and finished all the flats on the ceiling. Went well and am starting to get a bit faster although keeping a straight line is a bit tricky when I go faster. Anyhow....I was trying to advance the tape after I cut and start the next seam but it advances dry. I started setting it down on my foot and advanced the mud at the same time as the tape but after watching many vids I see that most do it the other way. Why am I getting a dry tape. I know the wheels have to turn to bring up the mud but don't see many doing that. Some turn the wheels and advance tape on the board at the same time at the start then run the tape. It seems like after you cut the tape you should be able to advance the tape with one push of the control tube and start with wet tape. Not so for me. Not sure if that makes sense but if anyone has a solution.........(2buck?)


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

jcampbell said:


> Playing around with the taper a bit more today and finished all the flats on the ceiling. Went well and am starting to get a bit faster although keeping a straight line is a bit tricky when I go faster. Anyhow....I was trying to advance the tape after I cut and start the next seam but it advances dry. I started setting it down on my foot and advanced the mud at the same time as the tape but after watching many vids I see that most do it the other way. Why am I getting a dry tape. I know the wheels have to turn to bring up the mud but don't see many doing that. Some turn the wheels and advance tape on the board at the same time at the start then run the tape. It seems like after you cut the tape you should be able to advance the tape with one push of the control tube and start with wet tape. Not so for me. Not sure if that makes sense but if anyone has a solution.........(2buck?)


Same thing here!
That's why I use FibaFuse. If I have any dry spots I can just throw mud on top and wipe it in. But usually there's always a little dry spot right where I advance my tape up a bit. A few inches in.
I found mixing my mud even thinner helped a bit. It seemed to work its way onto the dry spots from advancing the tape.


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Just run one wheel against the ceiling/wall for three or four inches and mud will start to flow and then you can feed the tape and start taping with no dry start


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Seems to me I tried the run the one wheel trick against the wall trick and it worked. So ....if you are supposed to stop approximate 3-4" from end of wall and cut...would you continue to end of wall advancing tape and rolling wheels at same time for those last few inches. Maybe that's what I'm not seeing in the vids. That should give you 2-3 " of wet tape to start next string? I guess I've been watching the Columbia taper vid too many times. (the one where the guy is using a northstar taper) that guy flys!


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

fr8train said:


> Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRV76P4XamY


Yup. That's pretty fast. Good job. Still don't see. As soon as you cut the tape are you rolling the wheels forward and advancing tape at same time before you start your next flat to get the wet tape


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Tried a few angles with the compound tube and flushers. Here are my results http://youtu.be/WXcgZh7rbnk. Not sure if I did this right .


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Yes, when I stop and cut, I continue to run the wheel against the board while advancing the tape. When I hit the corner it should be ready to go. I'll see if I can get a Vid of it, I'll go slow.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

fr8train said:


> Yes, when I stop and cut, I continue to run the wheel against the board while advancing the tape. When I hit the corner it should be ready to go. I'll see if I can get a Vid of it, I'll go slow.


Ya that's what I was thinking. Sweet man ... I would appreciate it .


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

jcampbell said:


> Tried a few angles with the compound tube and flushers. Here are my results http://youtu.be/WXcgZh7rbnk. Not sure if I did this right .


They don't look bad, but,,,,, You have a bazooka, why are you using a compound tube?:blink:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Tried a few angles with the compound tube and flushers. Here are my results http://youtu.be/WXcgZh7rbnk. Not sure if I did this right .


Why do your boarders hang the bottoms first?


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> They don't look bad, but,,,,, You have a bazooka, why are you using a compound tube?:blink:


For what angles I had ......tube easier to clean. Also wanted to actually use one. I will save the zooker for the rest of the house.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

moore said:


> Why do your boarders hang the bottoms first?http://smileyshack.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/sconfused_100-134.gif


Well....we are the boarders. And like I said... Intill the spray foam guys show up this is all we can do for now. I always hang bottoms first if under 8' or under 9' ect. Upstairs the ceilings are just over 9' so tops will be hung first.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Seems to me I tried the run the one wheel trick against the wall trick and it worked. So ....if you are supposed to stop approximate 3-4" from end of wall and cut...would you continue to end of wall advancing tape and rolling wheels at same time for those last few inches. Maybe that's what I'm not seeing in the vids. That should give you 2-3 " of wet tape to start next string? I guess I've been watching the Columbia taper vid too many times. (the one where the guy is using a northstar taper) that guy flys!


It's why we start wiping flat tapes from the middle, when you come to the end of the tape where the dry spot is, the mud will force under it well your wiping. Angle tapes your using a roller, which will force mud to the dry areas. Header joints (or small tapes) I will set the zook down and do that method where you advance the tape so theres mud on it. So for a 18" header joint above a door, I will advance out about a foot of tape, then put it to the wall, so I only run it on the wall ,,,UP about 4", and cut, just before the dry spot will appear...

You did really good for your first time on the zook, you make us proud:yes::thumbup:

But this is one thing that really pains me to say,,,, Moose boy is right about something The fiba fuse is good to use, when learning the Bazooka. There are some good points about it, but the main one I will stress, it shows where the dry spot appears.....

Off to watch your latest video......and I might of quoted the wrong post:blink:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Tried a few angles with the compound tube and flushers. Here are my results http://youtu.be/WXcgZh7rbnk. Not sure if I did this right .


I use the metal can-am applicator:yes:

Those things can get so beat up, you can loose the wheels and the runners can be all worn out, and you can still get them to work for you,,,, it's all about your MUD MIX,,,,, make it runny, about 6 or 7 timmy cups with the CGC red mud,,, sometimes even more:thumbup:

And I elect Gordie to make you a "how to do drywall video:whistling2:"


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

How do I know if my bazooka mud is too thick. It seemed to run fine and my tapes wiped out ok. Also. ... Does my mud need to be the same for flushing on the second coat. Reason I'm asking is because my angles after second coat are heavy and don't seem very square. I'm probably going to have to feather them out wider . On t he plus side....... Boxes were a cinch! Slick as butter. My mud boxes are 17kg . Taping mud and all purpose red certainteed. I add water with a mud tube . Just curious as to how much to add.... 1.5 tubes.....1tube? The angles seemed to wipe out good also but after second coat dried they feel like they are loaded too much.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> How do I know if my bazooka mud is too thick. It seemed to run fine and my tapes wiped out ok. Also. ... Does my mud need to be the same for flushing on the second coat. Reason I'm asking is because my angles after second coat are heavy and don't seem very square. I'm probably going to have to feather them out wider . On t he plus side....... Boxes were a cinch! Slick as butter. My mud boxes are 17kg . Taping mud and all purpose red certainteed. I add water with a mud tube . Just curious as to how much to add.... 1.5 tubes.....1tube? The angles seemed to wipe out good also but after second coat dried they feel like they are loaded too much.


Around 7 to 8 large timmy cups for flats, 10 to 12 for angles. But it's more about the FEEL when it comes to mixing, and how the mud burps/bubbles when you mix. When mixing zook mud, coating mud, try not to suck in air, and watch how it swirls.

Avoid direct flushing (head on cp tube) if I remember right, the mud has to be kind of thick,,,,,, I think..... in direct flushing, around 6 to 8 timmy cups


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Ok here's another question. I'm finding that the ceiling side of my angles are running quite flat however the wall sides are kinda bowed if that makes any sense? I've skimmed all the lowers at the ceiling angles and they are now good but would like to not have to do this. Is it because of applying too much mud before flushing in combination of maybe holding flusher handle to high when flushing? You guys me be getting annoyed I know............ I'm a newb at this auto game. I guess just used to hand taping angles.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

I haven't ran flushers so not sure if it's simular with glazers, but you can put too much pressure to one side and not enough on the other with glazers and leave inconsistent angles. Is it only your top angles doing this, how do your uprights look?


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> I haven't ran flushers so not sure if it's simular with glazers, but you can put too much pressure to one side and not enough on the other with glazers and leave inconsistent angles. Is it only your top angles doing this, how do your uprights look?


They are more even but still crowned. Just like the shape of the flusher before any pressure is put on the spring. I don't know if my mud was too thick on the tape coat . On the tape coat i know the tape shrinks back below the fill on edges it seems like and maybe with second pass I amplifying the problem .


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> It's why we start wiping flat tapes from the middle, when you come to the end of the tape where the dry spot is, the mud will force under it well your wiping. Angle tapes your using a roller, which will force mud to the dry areas. Header joints (or small tapes) I will set the zook down and do that method where you advance the tape so theres mud on it. So for a 18" header joint above a door, I will advance out about a foot of tape, then put it to the wall, so I only run it on the wall ,,,UP about 4", and cut, just before the dry spot will appear...
> 
> You did really good for your first time on the zook, you make us proud:yes::thumbup:
> 
> ...


 
what causes that dryspot


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

jcamp - Sounds like you may be putting to much pressure on one side of the flusher. The handle must be held perpendicular to the angle and keep pressure on the center. Do not lean on one side or the other.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Newagestucco said:


> what causes that dryspot


That is a mechanical issue, not my expertise









Think the Captain or Aaron from Columbia explained why. Something about the something something, causes the plunger to drop down just a bit, b/c the thing a magoober thing does something.

Guess it can't be that big of a deal, or they would of done something to address it by now. Not a huge deal when dealing with long tapes, but it can be a burden with short tapes sometimes


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> That is a mechanical issue, not my expertise
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The thing a magoober was doing something for me today too but not something good. Something managed to fix something itself and some things stay a mystery.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> They are more even but still crowned. Just like the shape of the flusher before any pressure is put on the spring. I don't know if my mud was too thick on the tape coat . On the tape coat i know the tape shrinks back below the fill on edges it seems like and maybe with second pass I amplifying the problem .


Welcome to the world of taping:thumbup:

Not all bevells are created equal, they can vary from company to company, and for some reason, 54" board has deeper bevells for some reason. If your doing your own drywall work, try to omit as many bevells as you can. For example, our rockers are ordered to put the side stand up sheets in closets, to the door side, not to the back wall of the closet.

On a upright bevell on a wall, that has not been taped yet, stick your flusher or angle head in there, and look at how it sits in there. You will notice it don't sit square or that it tilts, a few ways to address it are

-size and type of angle head

-Manipulate the angle of the hook/bend on the wiping pole(turn hook to apply pressure to non bevell side)

- Pre-fill/load bevell before you apply tape

- run a nail spotter down bevell side after tape is applied (when it's dry of coarse:whistling2

- Fill bevell side by hand after it's taped

- Don't worry about it, you don't get paid enough:jester:


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## RenoRob (Nov 6, 2012)

I use the 2.5 then the 3.5 flusher in the bevel corners and that seems to fill well. Then I'll sand to the shoulder


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> That is a mechanical issue, not my expertise
> 
> 
> 
> ...


i know the effects even dating back 25 years ago
even with different zooks still had same thing happend
i guess only a trew zook runner would no this lol


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Newagestucco said:


> what causes that dryspot


 Only two things will cause a dry spot
1) advancing the tape without the wheels moving
2) standing the zook straight up and having the plunger slip down abit

(this presupposes that you didn't pump air in the tube)

learning how to stop,cut,then roll takes abit of practice,, but if I can figure it out, it ain't that hard

If your "clicker" is not set tight enough, it will allow the plunger to slip when you stand it up.

2buck mentioned about the short butts over the doors,,,,, I had a dry spot at 3" into the tape for ever. That is a number 1) problem,,,letting the tape get out of the chute dry.

Watch what your doing,,, if you are having a problem at the same place regularly, its something your doing wrong. If the problem is sparotic,, it is a probably a slippage prob.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Welcome to the world of taping:thumbup:
> 
> Not all bevells are created equal, they can vary from company to company, and for some reason, 54" board has deeper bevells for some reason. If your doing your own drywall work, try to omit as many bevells as you can. For example, our rockers are ordered to put the side stand up sheets in closets, to the door side, not to the back wall of the closet.
> 
> ...


I'm only taping out the basement right now and where I've hung bottom sheets first the upper sheets have had their bevels cut off as the ceilings are only 7' 10" . It must be the way i am holding the handle. There are tapers on the ceilings but they seem to fill good. Ran 2.5 can am the 3.5 can am. I just suck I guess............. Is there any way to adjust the can am applicator to put out a bit more mud. I ended up having to use the blueline head and it is hard to run until half the tube is empty and it sticks. Not to mention it puts out a lot of mud . For example on a 12x12 room When I was flushing I would go across from left to right 12' then shake the mud off and go back over the same angle the opposite way. The can am applicator doesn't put out enough mud to flush with the 3.5 and the blueline puts out too much for it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> I'm only taping out the basement right now and where I've hung bottom sheets first the upper sheets have had their bevels cut off as the ceilings are only 7' 10" . It must be the way i am holding the handle. There are tapers on the ceilings but they seem to fill good. Ran 2.5 can am the 3.5 can am. I just suck I guess............. Is there any way to adjust the can am applicator to put out a bit more mud. I ended up having to use the blueline head and it is hard to run until half the tube is empty and it sticks. Not to mention it puts out a lot of mud . For example on a 12x12 room When I was flushing I would go across from left to right 12' then shake the mud off and go back over the same angle the opposite way. The can am applicator doesn't put out enough mud to flush with the 3.5 and the blueline puts out too much for it.


Just wondering, are you using a roller when applying the tape.

The roller is a important step that some take for granted, or over look. Sometimes you just go through the motions with the roller, ,when it should be the tool you ALMOST pay attention to more, compared to the angle head.If rolled right, you should be able to wipe your angle tapes in one pass, no matter which head you use.

You half to apply really hard pressure to the roller, the harder you roll out, the better the tapes flush/glaze out. Plus proper positioning with the roller helps too,,,, for example....... 2bjr, when rolling out horizontal tapes on nine foot high ceilings, will get holding his arms too low, so he's holding the roller at around 20 degrees from the wall, now all the pressure is on the ceilings, but not on the walls. I keep nagging him to get his arms up, over his head, so equal amounts of mud are forced out on each side of the tape.

One of my sayings in taping is, from the foundation up.... some of your problems down the road, could be from some of the first steps you have done:yes:


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Just wondering, are you using a roller when applying the tape.
> 
> The roller is a important step that some take for granted, or over look. Sometimes you just go through the motions with the roller, ,when it should be the tool you ALMOST pay attention to more, compared to the angle head.If rolled right, you should be able to wipe your angle tapes in one pass, no matter which head you use.
> 
> ...


Yes ..... I have a Columbia roller and I make sure to push really hard. U can feel it when the tape is tight and hear it. I do find it hard to start rolling sometimes getting stuck in a wrinkle or something like that so I lightly roll from the middle the whole way to the right then all the way to the left then start again in middle this time pushing hard. It seems that the paper curls up a lot as it goes in the corner from the zooker. The wheel almost folds it in half instead of laying it out on both sides of the angle. I have to be careful when starting the rolling as its a bit tough to get it in the corner because the tape has folded together too close. Also have to be careful and make sure I get tape centered with the zooka / wheel before I start cause that's a pain to move it after you roll a crooked tape. The flusher should clean the tape right off pretty much? Seems like it did. And what about the little hairline cracks? They should disappear after sanding and a good primer coat? We spray and backroll Benjamin Moore primer.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Yes ..... I have a Columbia roller and I make sure to push really hard. U can feel it when the tape is tight and hear it. I do find it hard to start rolling sometimes getting stuck in a wrinkle or something like that so I lightly roll from the middle the whole way to the right then all the way to the left then start again in middle this time pushing hard. It seems that the paper curls up a lot as it goes in the corner from the zooker. The wheel almost folds it in half instead of laying it out on both sides of the angle. I have to be careful when starting the rolling as its a bit tough to get it in the corner because the tape has folded together too close. Also have to be careful and make sure I get tape centered with the zooka / wheel before I start cause that's a pain to move it after you roll a crooked tape. The flusher should clean the tape right off pretty much? Seems like it did. And what about the little hairline cracks? They should disappear after sanding and a good primer coat? We spray and backroll Benjamin Moore primer.


Hair line cracks:blink::blink::blink::blink:


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Yes ..... I have a Columbia roller and I make sure to push really hard. U can feel it when the tape is tight and hear it. I do find it hard to start rolling sometimes getting stuck in a wrinkle or something like that so I lightly roll from the middle the whole way to the right then all the way to the left then start again in middle this time pushing hard. It seems that the paper curls up a lot as it goes in the corner from the zooker. The wheel almost folds it in half instead of laying it out on both sides of the angle. I have to be careful when starting the rolling as its a bit tough to get it in the corner because the tape has folded together too close. Also have to be careful and make sure I get tape centered with the zooka / wheel before I start cause that's a pain to move it after you roll a crooked tape. The flusher should clean the tape right off pretty much? Seems like it did. And what about the little hairline cracks? They should disappear after sanding and a good primer coat? We spray and backroll Benjamin Moore primer.


Get yourself a 3 point creaser whee from walltools l for your bazooka that will solve the folded angle paper issue. The crack that's a whole other issue


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

sdrdrywall said:


> Get yourself a 3 point creaser whee from walltools l for your bazooka that will solve the folded angle paper issue. The crack that's a whole other issue


I will check them out . Im guessing too much mud left behind in combination of the added water causes the mud to shrink back a lot and result in hairline cracks. I'm not worried though. I know it's not the paper. You have to look really close to see them. I'm guessing there a whole other thread on hairline cracks......thanks for the help guys.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Too much mud over your angle tape no matter what your method or tools are will cause cracking...Loading mud over angle tape that has not completly dried will cause cracking ...These hair line cracks can be sanded out ...before paint!! After paint...your screwed.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

moore said:


> Too much mud over your angle tape no matter what your method or tools are will cause cracking...Loading mud over angle tape that has not completly dried will cause cracking ...These hair line cracks can be sanded out ...before paint!! After paint...your screwed.



I agree moore.:thumbsup: But as you know it's nothing to panic about because after a rough sand and skim it will disappear anyway.:yes:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

in my angles you can see paper in the very point of them and that is the only place. i always sand out until i can see that tiny little bit because i know that there will be no mud in there to crack later.


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Here's another video for 2buck. Figured out how to start and stop with a wet tape the easy way.http://youtu.be/LI1H_nvl0Vk


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Here's another video for 2buck. Figured out how to start and stop with a wet tape the easy way.http://youtu.be/LI1H_nvl0Vk


Looks good

At the 37 sec mark, you fed the tape out right when feeding tape up when base is on the ground. The 1:12 mark your pin must not of grabbed or something.

But you do have it going down right, cut, quick little pause, then forward on the cutter to feed the tape through. Do a house or 2 house flats, then graduate to the angles. Vertical angles are easy, it's the horizontals that will anger you........

Wasn't Moose boy suppose to make a video for you, show you how a guy can come in behind you with the roller, to hold the tape in place for you,,,,, till you get the zook mastered:whistling2::yes:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

jcampbell said:


> I make sure to push really hard. U can feel it when is tight , I do find it hard to start rolling sometimes getting stuck in a wrinkle or something like that so I lightly roll from the middle the whole way to the right then all the way to the left then start again in middle this time pushing hard.


I had that problem,,, but after I got me a new, skinny girlfriend,,, it went away!!!!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

jcampbell said:


> Here's another video for 2buck. Figured out how to start and stop with a wet tape the easy way.http://youtu.be/LI1H_nvl0Vk


 If I may be so bold,,(heehee, that was a joke)

At the first of the vid, you were rolling "BEFORE" the cut was finished,,,,can you say "dryspot". 

The last cut on the vid was PERFECT. I'll take a guess and say thats because you were done, and not worrying about the next flat. 

Like I said, it took me forever to learn that one. You HAVE to complete the cut with the rollers STILL on the wall, before you start ROLLING AGAIN!!!!

SIDES ALL THAT,,, LOOKING GOOD, AND WELCOME TO THE DARKSIDE!!


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I had that problem,,, but after I got me a new, skinny girlfriend,,, it went away!!!!!


Hahahahahahahahahaha. That's funny!!!!!!!!


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> If I may be so bold,,(heehee, that was a joke)
> 
> At the first of the vid, you were rolling "BEFORE" the cut was finished,,,,can you say "dryspot".
> 
> ...


Thanks man. Sometimes I get to excited to get to the next flat and rush it. Sometimes I even advance the tape and then roll then cut. Can you say JAM especially if I catch myself and only Half cut the tape!!!!! How come sometimes when I run out of mud I can still run dry tape and sometimes it just stops turning. Which way is it supposed to go?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

jcampbell said:


> Thanks man. Sometimes I get to excited to get to the next flat and rush it. Sometimes I even advance the tape and then roll then cut. Can you say JAM especially if I catch myself and only Half cut the tape!!!!! How come sometimes when I run out of mud I can still run dry tape and sometimes it just stops turning. Which way is it supposed to go?


Its supposed to stop turning,,,if it don't you need to fix it,,,,

I know why, but I've been off today, so I have about a case under my belt,,,,,maybe 2buck or Aaron will chime in,,,,, 

if they don't,, I'll sober up tommarow and give ya the skinny on it,,,I think!!!!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Its supposed to stop turning,,,if it don't you need to fix it,,,,
> 
> I know why, but I've been off today, so I have about a case under my belt,,,,,maybe 2buck or Aaron will chime in,,,,,
> 
> if they don't,, I'll sober up tommarow and give ya the skinny on it,,,I think!!!!


Nope
I run them, you fix them

I honestly suck at fixing stuff

I can look at a dip stick and see the oil needs changing, but I take it to a professional to do it:whistling2:


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

jcampbell said:


> How come sometimes when I run out of mud I can still run dry tape and sometimes it just stops turning. Which way is it supposed to go?


When you run empty the knob on the drivedog is supposed to disengage from the large sprocket so your cable would not break. When it does correctly disengage the wheel will turn without engaging the sprocket


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> How to embed a video into the DWT forum. - YouTube



atta boy showing us how ta post vids................:yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Kool JC:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Philma Crevices said:


> When you run empty the knob on the drivedog is supposed to disengage from the large sprocket so your cable would not break. When it does correctly disengage the wheel will turn without engaging the sprocket


 thanks,,,

that's right,,,

If it don't, pull out the dawg spring and "open it up abit",,cause it ain't pushing hard nuff,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Seems like cats girlfriend said that!!:whistling2:


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> thanks,,,
> 
> that's right,,,
> 
> ...


The pin that pops up when the plunger hits the top ... Is that what you guys are talking about . The pin gets pushed up and disengages the sprocket? That's why it's important to always make sure the pin is down when running the taper because you will get dry tapes?


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Wasn't talking about that part, but that is a part of the mechanism that affects what you were asking about  

This is the drivedog, it s inserted through the sprocket. The knob on it disengages off the sprocket when moons are aligned blah blah blah


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> Wasn't talking about that part, but that is a part of the mechanism that affects what you were asking about
> 
> This is the drivedog, it s inserted through the sprocket. The knob on it disengages off the sprocket when moons are aligned blah blah blah


Ahhh I got cha


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Ahhh I got cha


when ya first pump her up JC engage roller and a light tap on ground will remove air bubas:yes:


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