# New bazooka dragging tape



## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

Hi, I have a level 5 taper. My first time using a bazooka and don't have anyone locally who can help. I've watched lots of YouTube videos on how to use it and it's going okay but for some reason it keeps pulling the tape from the start of the run. It pulls anywhere from a couple inches to a foot. I can't figure out what to do to correct it.
The wheel is only touching on one side and it is pinching the tape to the wall. Could it be that the mud is too thin? Doubt it's too thick. 
The tape pulls out freely.


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

On angles? Flats? Both? You should only be getting a couple inches of drag max on a long run, and you can compensate for that. If I want to drag a tape a little bit I twist the head of the gun slightly. Maybe you are doing that without realizing.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

gopherstateguy said:


> On angles? Flats? Both? You should only be getting a couple inches of drag max on a long run, and you can compensate for that. If I want to drag a tape a little bit I twist the head of the gun slightly. Maybe you are doing that without realizing.


Both, but it seems like angles are worse. Very possible I'm twisting the head. I'm heading back soon to give it another try. 
Could the thickness of the mud have an effect on that?


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

Yes, thinner is better as far as drag is concerned. Also every time you wash it up lube the chain, sprockets, cutter chain, and main wheel axle.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

Some guns have a longer break in period than others(Even from the same manufacture. Keep it washed up and oiled like Gopherstate said. You can put a wet cut down sponge in the back of the tube to keep the piston moving smoothly also.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

I do oil it after every cleaning. Thanks for the tip on the sponge. 

What I can't understand is the tape is moving through freely, mud is pretty thin, the wheel is pinching the tape to the wall but it still pulls from the starting point.

Since I don't have anyone who can help me locally, I've been watching every youtube video I can find as well as reading through the old posts here.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

Don't know if you've seen this video, but he does a pretty good job explaining the mixing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ue_lxiYbQ0&t=381


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

What kind of oil are you using? What kind of compound? Usg green all purpose hasn't been running the greatest lately. Like I was saying about break in some bazookas run real hard during that time till they loosen up. Sometimes running the gun more perpendicular to the wall works better for me.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Is the brake adjustable on the level 5? If so back it off a little to much brake (clicker) will cause drag.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

Mudslinger said:


> Don't know if you've seen this video, but he does a pretty good job explaining the mixing.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ue_lxiYbQ0&t=381


I did see that a while ago but will watch again to see if I missed anything.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

Mudslinger said:


> What kind of oil are you using? What kind of compound? Usg green all purpose hasn't been running the greatest lately. Like I was saying about break in some bazookas run real hard during that time till they loosen up. Sometimes running the gun more perpendicular to the wall works better for me.


I'm using Liquid Wrench lubricating oil.

ProForm All Purpose


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

gazman said:


> Is the brake adjustable on the level 5? If so back it off a little to much brake (clicker) will cause drag.


I looked at it yesterday. It looks like it should be adjustable but not sure how. It has a little metal cylinder on a needle that rides under the wheel.
Will try adjusting it today.


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

island slinger said:


> I looked at it yesterday. It looks like it should be adjustable but not sure how. It has a little metal cylinder on a needle that rides under the wheel.
> Will try adjusting it today.


If it is a newer level5 gun it is adjustable. There is a little lever connected to the brake axle. Push it in for less tension, pull it toward you for more tension. Just make sure it still clicks when you turn the wheel other wise it can roll backwards and give you dry spots.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

gopherstateguy said:


> If it is a newer level5 gun it is adjustable. There is a little lever connected to the brake axle. Push it in for less tension, pull it toward you for more tension. Just make sure it still clicks when you turn the wheel other wise it can roll backwards and give you dry spots.


It's new, hope it the latest since I just got it a couple weeks ago. Heading to the job in a few minutes. Will take a look at it. Thanks


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

Have you tried using taping mud? It can be a little bit slicker than All Purpose mud. Always keep the drive wheels as close to square to the wall or ceiling as possible. One drive wheel makes contact against the tape and wall or ceiling. The other should just barely clear by maybe a quarter in or maybe a little more. This is probably not possible on ten foot ceilings, or the infamous head angles inside a closet. Often it is the drive wheel away from me (outside wheel) that makes contact. The head of the bazooka should lead as you progress down the tape joint. The body of the bazooka should angle back. If you keep the body of the bazooka too perpendicular to the wall you may get tape slippage. Move the bazooka with nice even medium pressure, at an even medium speed. If you let up on wall pressure, or jerk it too fast, you will probably get tape slippage. Did I mention TAPING MUD? I'll mention it again. We use Wes Pac original formula taping mud. That stuff works great. I am not a fan of lite weight taping mud. It seems to fall off the tape when you push it too fast.


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

island slinger said:


> It's new, hope it the latest since I just got it a couple weeks ago. Heading to the job in a few minutes. Will take a look at it. Thanks


Wow. I would love to use a new bazooka. Good for you. I have at least four bazookas. They date back to Rocky 1, Rocky 2, Rocky 3 and Rocky 4, respectively. They have been rebuilt numerous times. But eventually you have a tool which leaks no matter how new the seals are. And has all kinds of little dents and buggy quirks you have to work around. Once you get it working, enjoy the new bazooka.


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

endo_alley_revisited said:


> Wow. I would love to use a new bazooka. Good for you. I have at least four bazookas. They date back to Rocky 1, Rocky 2, Rocky 3 and Rocky 4, respectively. They have been rebuilt numerous times. But eventually you have a tool which leaks no matter how new the seals are. And has all kinds of little dents and buggy quirks you have to work around. Once you get it working, enjoy the new bazooka.


Sell Rocky 1-3 and buy a new one:jester: I just ran a coworker's brand new TT gun on Wednesday, I prefer a sloppy broke in gun. BTW TT aint what they used to be and are the most expensive. If I was buying a new gun I would go with Northstar:thumbsup:


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

island slinger said:


> I'm using Liquid Wrench lubricating oil.
> 
> ProForm All Purpose


I run ProForm Ap all the time, it usually runs through the taper pretty nice. I would consider switching over to Sea Foam Deep Creep Multi-Use Penetrating Lubricant . It's safe on rubber and plastic parts, and keeps the bazooka running really smooth. You can buy it at most auto parts stores. Different lubricants can make a huge difference in how it runs for you.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

endo_alley_revisited said:


> Have you tried using taping mud? It can be a little bit slicker than All Purpose mud. Always keep the drive wheels as close to square to the wall or ceiling as possible. One drive wheel makes contact against the tape and wall or ceiling. The other should just barely clear by maybe a quarter in or maybe a little more. This is probably not possible on ten foot ceilings, or the infamous head angles inside a closet. Often it is the drive wheel away from me (outside wheel) that makes contact. The head of the bazooka should lead as you progress down the tape joint. The body of the bazooka should angle back. If you keep the body of the bazooka too perpendicular to the wall you may get tape slippage. Move the bazooka with nice even medium pressure, at an even medium speed. If you let up on wall pressure, or jerk it too fast, you will probably get tape slippage. Did I mention TAPING MUD? I'll mention it again. We use Wes Pac original formula taping mud. That stuff works great. I am not a fan of lite weight taping mud. It seems to fall off the tape when you push it too fast.


If you notice my location, we don't have taping mud or topping/lightweight mud, only all purpose. Two, occasionally three different brands of all purpose.
I've been working on how I hold it against the wall and it's helping a little. 
Also tried it a little thicker and that seems to help a little too, plus there's not as much mess.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

Mudslinger said:


> I run ProForm Ap all the time, it usually runs through the taper pretty nice. I would consider switching over to Sea Foam Deep Creep Multi-Use Penetrating Lubricant . It's safe on rubber and plastic parts, and keeps the bazooka running really smooth. You can buy it at most auto parts stores. Different lubricants can make a huge difference in how it runs for you.


I'll get a can of the sea foam. Pretty sure I've seen it here.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

island slinger said:


> I'll get a can of the sea foam. Pretty sure I've seen it here.


Saw it on the Whim Automotive website in the Bahamas, I didn't want to recommend it if you couldn't get it.:thumbsup:


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

Mudslinger said:


> Saw it on the Whim Automotive website in the Bahamas, I didn't want to recommend it if you couldn't get it.:thumbsup:


Thanks but I live on a different island. It's much easier for me to order and ship stuff from the US than it is from Nassau where that store is


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

island slinger said:


> Thanks but I live on a different island. It's much easier for me to order and ship stuff from the US than it is from Nassau where that store is


I gave it a shot lol.


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

island slinger said:


> Hi, I have a level 5 taper. My first time using a bazooka and don't have anyone locally who can help. I've watched lots of YouTube videos on how to use it and it's going okay but for some reason it keeps pulling the tape from the start of the run. It pulls anywhere from a couple inches to a foot. I can't figure out what to do to correct it.
> The wheel is only touching on one side and it is pinching the tape to the wall. Could it be that the mud is too thin? Doubt it's too thick.
> The tape pulls out freely.


How are things coming along? I can remember having various problems with the bazooka my first few months. (Was it Carter or Reagan administration, can't remember) Eventually, after you have the proper muscle memory, they all seem to go away. Unless of course there is something wrong with the bazooka itself. Maybe you can have someone with a few years taping experience under their belt give your bazooka a test run. If it works well for them, then you know it is just some technique improvements that are needed.


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## island slinger (Sep 1, 2018)

endo_alley_revisited said:


> How are things coming along? I can remember having various problems with the bazooka my first few months. (Was it Carter or Reagan administration, can't remember) Eventually, after you have the proper muscle memory, they all seem to go away. Unless of course there is something wrong with the bazooka itself. Maybe you can have someone with a few years taping experience under their belt give your bazooka a test run. If it works well for them, then you know it is just some technique improvements that are needed.


It's been a little better lately. I think it's most likely my technique causing the issue. I'm paying more attention to the position of the taper. 
There isn't anyone local with a bazooka that I know of. Actually, I'm not aware of anyone else nearby that doesn't tape with pan/knife, all purpose and sticky mesh tape


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

island slinger said:


> It's been a little better lately. I think it's most likely my technique causing the issue. I'm paying more attention to the position of the taper.
> There isn't anyone local with a bazooka that I know of. Actually, I'm not aware of anyone else nearby that doesn't tape with pan/knife, all purpose and sticky mesh tape


Good enough. Keep enough even pressure on the drive wheel to make good contact and pinch the tape tight to the wall. But not so much you cut into the paper (or get carpal tunnel). On horizontal angles, start with the tape maybe three inches long. By the time you are done running out the angle it should be about right if you are doing it properly. Too much and the tape may fall off the wall and onto the floor. I'm sure by now you have experienced that a few times. Sometimes you have to run back to the beginning of the angle after cutting the tape. And push the creaser wheel into the beginning of the angle to stop it from falling. Flats shouldn't drag much at all. So you shouldn't need to start them long.


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