# Auto-Slam



## BANDIT8 (Sep 28, 2008)

If anybody has used one of these machines any tips I could get would be helpful.. We just get one and I'm trying to get more efficent with it. Thanks.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

you got one?!

efficiency is key


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Saw that machine in AWCI or Walls and Ceilings a couple of months ago. Claimed huge labor savings, but on repeated floor plans on high rises. L & W supply (which is USG's retail arm) will buy it and rent it to you, saving you the 5K + outlay, and send an AutoSlam rep out to train you.

Don't see spending that kind of $ or time right now at these volumes of work. Plus am no fan of paper faced beads of ANY kind. Call backs on the paper faced garbage nearly broke me about 5 years ago. :cursing:


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Saw that machine in AWCI or Walls and Ceilings a couple of months ago. Claimed huge labor savings, but on repeated floor plans on high rises. L & W supply (which is USG's retail arm) will buy it and rent it to you, saving you the 5K + outlay, and send an AutoSlam rep out to train you.
> 
> Don't see spending that kind of $ or time right now at these volumes of work. Plus am no fan of paper faced beads of ANY kind. Call backs on the paper faced garbage nearly broke me about 5 years ago. :cursing:


 What problems did u have with the bead and what brand was it ??? I only use the B1 super wide In fact usg makes several types tried them all and the rest were only garbage to me .. really didn't ever have an issue with cracking but more just puckering out on the cheap ones..


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Both usg and phillps both suck out loud. We tried everything conceivable: all-purp, lite, setting type, with hopper, with jersey glove or roller. Oh yes, tapers just loved the crap cuz it goes on soo fast, but I was left paying to repair that#%€< junk. BTW, Phillips was slightly better as it's paper did not flash like usg. Curses on all paper faced bead!!!! Initial cost is higher and warranty issues nearly broke me.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Both usb and phillips both suck out loud. We tried everything conceivable: all-purp, lite, setting type, with hopper, with jersey glove or roller. Oh yes, tapers just loved the crap cuz it goes on so fast, but I was left paying to repair that#%€< junk. BTW, Phillips was slightly better as it's paper did not flash like usg. Curses on all paper faced bead!!!! Initial cost is higher and warranty issues nearly broke me.


 I can understand where you are coming from , I think a lot of the issues are the way they are applied , it is true a hopper or mud applicator is a fast way of getting them on and I have used both methods , but the best way and needless to say the most time consuming way is just apply the mud on by hand .... even then you can have some issues ... I like to make sure there is plenty of taping mud packed behind the whole bead not just the outer edge as the hopper and applicators only coat the paper . I like to make it solid and yes the rollers can roll them out fast , but for me I just run my fingers down the bead .... I like to wipe them out with the least possible fill on the next coat.... It don't take very long to hang the bead if you run two guys on it one doing tops and the other bottoms ...and for the occasional pucker well just drive a staple in to hold her in till the mud sets up .... I still have had no call backs on cracked beads by taking the time to install them this way , unlike the metal , and the vinyl I simply will just not use that crap .... I think also if applied by hand you tend to use a little thicker mud which helps the bonding process .. never had any flashing issues and you shouldn't as long as you recess the bead , the only part of the bead that should be exposed when finished it the very outer edge of the 90.. Kinda like a first coat on flats , butts & angles if the mud behind the tape is not done right it don't matter how much you put over it it wont cure the problem... you have to have a good bond .


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## Quality1st (Aug 1, 2008)

*Un Huh*

I do it exactly the same way as you Silver and never had any problems. The advantage to the paper is for areas that have alot of mosture content inthe framing lumber. Tap on will follow the framing a little better as it dries out. In Seattle area we would heat the whole house for 24 hrs prior to rocking. On my metal , after crimping and nailing, i mesh the edges of the metal down before first coat. The metal is now a part of the wall and cannot crack. Packing the inside of the paper corners provide more stength and it dries out slower, incresing the bond onthe outside edges. By the way i,m in Grand Forks.


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