# switching back to metal



## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

was putting my first ever mudset bead on today, LOVED IT! and then...

my boss told me to go start a job today, and grab some metal corners on your way. I said "why metal" he replied 

mudset 0.45 L/F

vinyl 0.30 L/F

Metal 0.15 L/F

so my question, anybody mud on metal beads on a regular basis?

im guessing paper metal would be around 0.30 L/F but im not sure.

S.O.S


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

i just install metal bead with cordless stapler. is fast, clean and easy.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I only install metal currenly but that is install...first coat...second coat...top i just watched the beadex vid and and you apply compound as your install and wip off its ready to top in plaster terms that deletes 2 coats as your install is your first and second wow


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> was putting my first ever mudset bead on today, LOVED IT! and then...
> 
> my boss told me to go start a job today, and grab some metal corners on your way. I said "why metal" he replied
> 
> ...


I say use what the man gave you. It's his call back not yours !


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> I say use what the man gave you. It's his call back not yours !


well put


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

thanks for the advice moore, that is my plan. the icing on the cake for this switch, no nails or staples. just clinch them on and that is it!


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Holy the builder is getting raped on buying mud set beads. The suppliers in pea eey oi know how to make some profit.

Vinyl mud set beads take as much fill as metal, so there REALLY is no point getting anything different as far as the builder would be concerned.


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

I don't know how you can say that. I just did first house in a long time that boarder put on metal bead. I was amazed at how much mud I used up to fill that metal. It is nowhere near the same amount as mud set.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> was putting my first ever mudset bead on today, LOVED IT! and then...
> 
> my boss told me to go start a job today, and grab some metal corners on your way. I said "why metal" he replied
> 
> ...


The up-front cost of metal is cheaper, what's the long term cost?


moore said:


> I say use what the man gave you. It's his call back not yours !


Agreed!


D A Drywall said:


> I don't know how you can say that. I just did first house in a long time that boarder put on metal bead. I was amazed at how much mud I used up to fill that metal. It is nowhere near the same amount as mud set.


They probably weren't installed as tightly as they could've been! We were just talking about that yesterday!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> thanks for the advice moore, that is my plan. the icing on the cake for this switch, no nails or staples. just clinch them on and that is it!


That should edge crack real nicely ! But It's not your dog in the race ..I say go for It!!


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

I do look forward to getting paid to do a corner waiting three months and then getting paid for the same corner again


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> I do look forward to getting paid to do a corner waiting three months and then getting paid for the same corner again


 When using standard metal corner with a clinch on tool run tape up each side. This method ends up being stronger than even tape on. I've had to pull off my own work and know this from my own experience. I could always tell when a finisher used topping mud, because the darn things would pull right off.

When bringing a new wall into an existing corner I would always cut the existing back 1' to avoid a hump. We used metal clinch on until the mid 90's before switching to tape on, because we didn't trust the finishers to get it right. When something had to be perfect I always screwed on metal.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I not sure why but in my ten years of drywall in aus i have never had a metal corner crack along the edge it may be cause we use staples then hot mud which is stronger then ap i guessing


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Actually i have had it once when a single story had a double story extension and the weight of an extra story compressed down other wise never a problem


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## Aussiecontractor (Oct 6, 2014)

embella plaster said:


> I not sure why but in my ten years of drywall in aus i have never had a metal corner crack along the edge it may be cause we use staples then hot mud which is stronger then ap i guessing



Exactly right mate base is strong as and staples do little but still help


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

You just hear all these yanks complaining how metal cracks they even use it for the advertisement on usg psper face corner the show metal cracking and paper is an alternative i just never seen it apart from an extra story built on i thought australia had a harsh continent with heaps of moving usa must


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The bead is different in the USA, they don't have any where near the amount of perferations in the bead. Moore calls it shiny 90, it is mostly flat on the sides, nothing for the mud to grip on to. Maybe one of the blokes state side can post a pic.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I see cant seem to figure then why they dont make metal like ours


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> The bead is different in the USA, they don't have any where near the amount of perferations in the bead. Moore calls it shiny 90, it is mostly flat on the sides, nothing for the mud to grip on to. Maybe one of the blokes state side can post a pic.





embella plaster said:


> I see cant seem to figure then why they dont make metal like ours


good question


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## sheep (May 11, 2015)

Well that explains a lot. Always wondered why the Americans hate on metal angles so much.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

That bead mixed with ap mud= disaster i rekon


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

embella plaster said:


> That bead mixed with ap mud= disaster i rekon



For sure our we are pretty lucky considering that's our cheapest why to install outside corners and it's way stronger than there's our mud is heaps better and I don't know why they use Metal like that I'm only learning and would be recommending a different bead to my boss is we used that 


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

The OZ beads look like plaster beads. The original mud set bead. 


http://youtu.be/a_426RiwST8


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

That didn't come up as a link mr


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

I got to remove that. 


http://youtu.be/a_426RiwST8


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Oh just realised it's after every post lol


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Thanks. 


http://youtu.be/tsws2uwPsSw


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

When installing metal bead with staples do you need an air or electric powered gun? I do not think my dewalt hand stapler will do the job. I really cant say weather or not a metal corner would crack, I have little experience putting them on though. I was raised on trim tex, then another company was into paper metal. 

but the system he wants is; metal corner clinched on, first coated with 90 min fast set. then two coats of a/p. my only real concern is no staples or nails. then again, my island was built on mesh tape, hard to tell anyone paper is better.


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> When installing metal bead with staples do you need an air or electric powered gun? I do not think my dewalt hand stapler will do the job. I really cant say weather or not a metal corner would crack, I have little experience putting them on though. I was raised on trim tex, then another company was into paper metal.
> 
> but the system he wants is; metal corner clinched on, first coated with 90 min fast set. then two coats of a/p. my only real concern is no staples or nails. then again, my island was built on mesh tape, hard to tell anyone paper is better.



No mate we just use a normal staple gun don't just clinch cause it will crack eventually if your gonna clinch then chuck a few staples in top middle and bottin after ur powered gun will work fine too all I have when installing metal bead is 1200 level to make sure it's straight and stapler most if the time my eye is pretty straight and don't even need the level but always good to check 


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

And if u want to save 5 minutes on scraping tape a 6" knife when installing and run down either side to make sure all staples are in there a bit of a chit to take out later 


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> When installing metal bead with staples do you need an air or electric powered gun? I do not think my dewalt hand stapler will do the job. I really cant say weather or not a metal corner would crack, I have little experience putting them on though. I was raised on trim tex, then another company was into paper metal.
> 
> but the system he wants is; metal corner clinched on, first coated with 90 min fast set. then two coats of a/p. my only real concern is no staples or nails. then again, my island was built on mesh tape, hard to tell anyone paper is better.


Back when I used metal my preferred method was a pneumatic narrow crown stapler with 1 1/4"-1 3/8" staples. I never had a problem with cracking the bead, but you do need to play with the air pressure the first time you use it. Some guys don't like to have the staple into the wood, but with the staple you still get slippage when wood shrinks unlike a ring shank nail. So you would have to decide on what length you want to use. The pneumatic stapler is fast and easy on your hand, but you would have to talk your boss into buying staples if he's supplying material.

http://bostitch.com/default.asp?CAT...BER=SX1838K&SDesc=18+Gauge+Finish+Stapler+Kit


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

I have not used or seen metal bead on corners for over 15 years now. For me the bead job was dependent on where I was working in Canada. Out east in Ontario it was the drywallers job to install bead. Once I came out west to Alberta it was the tapers job to install it. At the moment I use the paper wrapped metal bead for the most part. Living in a small town I get my supplies at the local Home Hardware so getting a variety of Trim-Tex vinyl is tough to come by. Would love to use more of the vinyl but work is slow for me at times and getting cases of different styles of the Trim-Tex vinyl is too costly for me when it could be sitting in my shop for months without being used.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

embella plaster said:


> That bead mixed with ap mud= disaster i rekon


Our Hot muds don't Adhere to metal very well. Too brittle after It cures.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

moore said:


> Our Hot muds don't Adhere to metal very well. Too brittle after It cures.


Nothing would adhere to that shiny 90 thats horrible mate


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

Mudslinger said:


> Back when I used metal my preferred method was a pneumatic narrow crown stapler with 1 1/4"-1 3/8" staples. I never had a problem with cracking the bead, but you do need to play with the air pressure the first time you use it. Some guys don't like to have the staple into the wood, but with the staple you still get slippage when wood shrinks unlike a ring shank nail. So you would have to decide on what length you want to use. The pneumatic stapler is fast and easy on your hand, but you would have to talk your boss into buying staples if he's supplying material.
> 
> http://bostitch.com/default.asp?CAT...BER=SX1838K&SDesc=18+Gauge+Finish+Stapler+Kit


That would work great, i should have specified, alot of time am on a commercial job, what staples would you recommend then?? i should be able to get anything cicrcle brand no problem.


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