# Which angle head size?



## Ladrywall (Jul 30, 2013)

Needing some opinions on which angle head size i need to purchase. I currently have a columbia 3" that is used for flushing and final coat. I find that the bazooka does not always leave enough mud, wondering if i should try a 2.5" but then i worry about too much mud and leaving a line on the outside of the tool. Just don't want to spend the money for a 2.5 if thats not what i need.

The downs did much better than the top corners for some reason, they did not fill good at all almost like there was lees mud up there... Anyway thanks for any advice.


----------



## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

2.5" works great when glazing behind a bazooka. Get a 3" or 3.5" for running the angles. You be stylin then. If you are using an auto taper and getting more mud lower than on the top of ceiling angles, it could be your mud is a little too runny and falling to the side. Or you are running the angle of the bazooka too flat to the wall. Or some caked up stuff on one side of the bazooka head. Or waiting too long to roll and glaze. Or you are failing to prefill any gaps where wall sheet meets ceiling sheet. Or any combination thereof. Usually the bazooka puts out just the right amount of mud for the glazing head.


----------



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

I've used a number of combinations but I find the 2.5" and 3.5" to be an excellent match.


----------



## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

Ladrywall said:


> Needing some opinions on which angle head size i need to purchase. I currently have a columbia 3" that is used for flushing and final coat. I find that the bazooka does not always leave enough mud, wondering if i should try a 2.5" but then i worry about too much mud and leaving a line on the outside of the tool. Just don't want to spend the money for a 2.5 if thats not what i need.
> 
> The downs did much better than the top corners for some reason, they did not fill good at all almost like there was lees mud up there... Anyway thanks for any advice.


I have a 2 1/2" Columbia up on ebay right now. Bought it new but never used it, $300 free shipping. Trying to switch out a few tools for a few different ones. Going to list Blueline's tool case too if I can dig up a cardboard box big enough for it!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191342059608?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


----------



## The Finishator (Nov 5, 2014)

3.5 ..or 4in are the best


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Sounds like perhaps your angle head isn't loading up with enough mud to coat the corner properly when you start. Perhaps try starting from the bottom? Or I have seen some people "prime" the angle head by dipping it in a bit of mud first then galzing. But I'm not a angle head user so these other guys would know better. There is also a debate on whether or not to go with a bigger head first, then smaller head when using an angle head..... something to think about I guess.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

2.5" behind the taper works great for me. It sits inside the beveled edge on the top sheet. I would think a 3" head would ride the bevel and the taper probably doesn't leave enough mud to fill that bevel.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I use the 3.5 with my taper and the amount is just about perfect. Maybe different brands of tapers put out different amounts of mud. I guess it can depend on a number of factors. 
#1 tube diameter. 
#2 the number of teeth on each cog.
#3 the diameter of each cog, just because they may have the same amount of teeth does not mean that they are the same size. The distance between the points of the teeth could vary.
#4 the diameter of the cable drum.
#5 the diameter of the drive wheels 

So, are all tapers created equal when it comes to mud flow? I guess the only way for us to know is for use to measure and count and post all of the variables.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Gaz, I thought you used a mudrunner with your angles on taping day.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Nope, the runner comer out on finish day. For taping (when I can use my mud of choice) I rune the taper, roll with my Columbia split wheel roller, then glaze off with my Northstar 3.5. Then finish with the same mud with the runner and DM 2.5. If I can't use my mud of choice I use the DM 2.5, then a topping mud with the runner and 3.5.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I forgot to mention, when I use the 2.5 I get more edging.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Must all be in how the head is adjusted. I don't have an issue with edging with my 2.5


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Or the amount of mud put out by the taper. Or the depth of the bevel.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Ladrywall said:


> Needing some opinions on which angle head size i need to purchase. I currently have a columbia 3" that is used for flushing and final coat. I find that the bazooka does not always leave enough mud, wondering if i should try a 2.5" but then i worry about too much mud and leaving a line on the outside of the tool. Just don't want to spend the money for a 2.5 if thats not what i need.
> 
> The downs did much better than the top corners for some reason, they did not fill good at all almost like there was lees mud up there... Anyway thanks for any advice.


Try adjusting the amount of rock on your skids, less rock means it needs less mud to pick up and spread.
Columbia have a great video on adjusting angleheads which will show what I mean by rock.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

gazman said:


> I forgot to mention, when I use the 2.5 I get more edging.


I used a BTE 2.5 flusher yesterday for my internals:blink: Had the thing for years and never used it! But I was quite surprised with the results as it left a nice corner! Bit of edging but nothing to worry about!
But here comes the problem,What I finish over it with? I am thinking maybe my 3 dm head or my 3.5 Columbia head or just hit it with my 2.5 dm head! It's going to b a trial and error thing I think!:thumbup:


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

VANMAN said:


> I used a BTE 2.5 flusher yesterday for my internals:blink: Had the thing for years and never used it! But I was quite surprised with the results as it left a nice corner! Bit of edging but nothing to worry about!
> But here comes the problem,What I finish over it with? I am thinking maybe my 3 dm head or my 3.5 Columbia head or just hit it with my 2.5 dm head! It's going to b a trial and error thing I think!:thumbup:


Try them all! See what gets you the best results with the least amount of effort


----------



## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

with a 2.5 and a 3.5 angle head with mud runner, what are the angle head need more water in the mud ? 

thx


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

gazman said:


> I forgot to mention, when I use the 2.5 I get more edging.


 
Gaz angles are sensative, if poly dude blows it and bunches corners up or not tight fit to corner, nevermind a speedball n framer, and there you have tracking


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Gaz angles are sensative, if poly dude blows it and bunches corners up or not tight fit to corner, nevermind a speedball n framer, and there you have tracking


I hear what you are saying Joe, but we don't have polly to worry about. With my Blue Line taper, the 3.5 is perfect. That suits we just fine, as it lets me finish with the 2.5.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> I hear what you are saying Joe, but we don't have polly to worry about. With my Blue Line taper, the 3.5 is perfect. That suits we just fine, as it lets me finish with the 2.5.


 
I tried that a few times and completely failed, Just not enough mud for a even coat with the 3.5, Terrible, That's using a level 5 zooka but the 2.5 is about perfect, Very even and very little edging. Not sure what the DM tapers going to do yet.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The Blue Line puts out one full pump per 8 foot corner. Nine pumps to fill, and nine corners too empty.


----------



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

Is it true that a 3.5 angle head tilts more when using a corner box when going from three way to three way?


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Terrence35 said:


> Is it true that a 3.5 angle head tilts more when using a corner box when going from three way to three way?


Not 100% sure what you're asking here.

Are you asking if the 3.5 gives a little bit more room at the cone, so you can run the angle box from 3-way to 3-way without leaving a lap/ stop mark?

Like this? Courtesy of fellow member PA rocker... drywall angle box routine: https://youtu.be/ur4_5ai7wrA


----------



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

fr8train said:


> Not 100% sure what you're asking here.
> 
> Are you asking if the 3.5 gives a little bit more room at the cone, so you can run the angle box from 3-way to 3-way without leaving a lap/ stop mark?
> 
> Like this? Courtesy of fellow member PA rocker... drywall angle box routine: https://youtu.be/ur4_5ai7wrA


Yes exactly like that. I just bought a 3.5 and its brand new. I can't run it on my corner box like that guy in the video. When I'm getting close to the other wall I position my corner box just like the guy in the video but my angle head kind of tilts off the corner.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

It's my understanding that you're angle box has a lot to do with it. Specifically the cone


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Maybe PA Rocker can post a pic of his


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Terrence35 said:


> Yes exactly like that. I just bought a 3.5 and its brand new. I can't run it on my corner box like that guy in the video. When I'm getting close to the other wall I position my corner box just like the guy in the video but my angle head kind of tilts off the corner.


 
How are you taping first coat.


----------



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

I don't think it matters how I'm taping first coat. I used to run a 3" Drywall master angle head with the same corner box and had no problem positioning it so it can go right into the three way. I now bought a 3.5 Northstar angle head and am having trouble positioning it without it tilting off the angle.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Terrence35 said:


> I don't think it matters how I'm taping first coat. I used to run a 3" Drywall master angle head with the same corner box and had no problem positioning it so it can go right into the three way. I now bought a 3.5 Northstar angle head and am having trouble positioning it without it tilting off the angle.


 Just asking, Its weird its not sitting right, So if you were not doing a nice tight 2.5 first coat then the 3.5 wont work over a inferior tape coat so it actually matters a lot, Good luck.


----------



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

cazna said:


> Just asking, Its weird its not sitting right, So if you were not doing a nice tight 2.5 first coat then the 3.5 wont work over a inferior tape coat so it actually matters a lot, Good luck.


I tape my angles and clean them with a 3" tin flusher. Leaves a nice sharp angle.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

The head he is using in the vid is a 3.5" NorthStar. I would put money that the cup on yours needs to break in. Or see if you can swap the cup from your DM


----------



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

fr8train said:


> The head he is using in the vid is a 3.5" NorthStar. I would put money that the cup on yours needs to break in. Or see if you can swap the cup from your DM


Sorry, What part is the "cup" ? Are you positive it is a northstar head?


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Yup, I was the one behind the camera for that vid.

The cup is the bowl shaped part that goes onto the cone of the angle box


----------



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

The corner box i use is a brand new 7 inch corner box


----------



## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

commercial work

run the 2in mechanical for tape than the 3in mechanical one time handle only.


----------

