# So How Do I Fix This?!



## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Anyone else ever deal with this? 

It's a knockdown ceiling and electrician f'd up bad....moving day is Saturday...


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Deal with it more than I like.... 

Patching it should be easy enough, whatever you can get in there for backing, I'ved used a paint stir stick once or twice. :whistling2:

Mesh and 5 min fastset, coat a little larger than your next tight coat with regular mud.. so edges of fastset dry and can be sponged. Spraycan or hopper, or if you can dip a water sponge in loose mud and dab it on, knock it down :thumbup:

Time est. 20 min


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> Deal with it more than I like....
> 
> Patching it should be easy enough, whatever you can get in there for backing, I'ved used a paint stir stick once or twice. :whistling2:
> 
> ...


So that'll blend in ok with the rest of the knockdown? Kinda makes me a little nervous...guess it won't look any worse lol...

Thanks Philma...


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

No scraping or anything? Just go right over it?


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

It'll blend if you semi match how large of splatters the sprayguy did. a light sand could help too. Shouldnt be any flashing as long as it's primed


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> It'll blend if you semi match how large of splatters the sprayguy did. a light sand could help too. Shouldnt be any flashing as long as it's primed


I textured it 3 weeks ago! It's a brand new house! I'm just worried that the texture will not blend cause there's a semi gloss paint on it...


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

getplastered said:


> No scraping or anything? Just go right over it?


You can sand the area a bit before hotmudding to help with edge drying, scrape the hotmud after its set for a while, it takes a while to set fully on paint. You could use the scrapings to fill any voids/pocking and skip teh tight coat of regular even. Light sand after texturing would help blend maybe, the pattern looks a bit uneven so it's not the easiest to match, but you can play with it till you like what you see


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Maybe if I spray a larger area and blend it in that way? And maybe scrape down where the mesh will go so I don't end up with different elevation?


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

getplastered said:


> I textured it 3 weeks ago! It's a brand new house! I'm just worried that the texture will not blend cause there's a semi gloss paint on it...


 Eww... I HATE semigloss :yes: Impossible to touchup paint, you probably have to roll the whole ceiling?


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> You can sand the area a bit before hotmudding to help with edge drying, scrape the hotmud after its set for a while, it takes a while to set fully on paint. You could use the scrapings to fill any voids/pocking and skip teh tight coat of regular even. Light sand after texturing would help blend maybe, the pattern looks a bit uneven so it's not the easiest to match, but you can play with it till you like what you see


Oh we'll gonna give er sh!t tomorrow....I'm sure I can get it close...I'll post a pic tomorrow night to see how it looks...!


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> Eww... I HATE semigloss :yes: Impossible to touchup paint, you probably have to roll the whole ceiling?


You mean the painter will have to repaint the whole ceiling! Lol he ain't gonna be happy! It's a monster ceiling too lol


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

getplastered said:


> Oh we'll gonna give er sh!t tomorrow....I'm sure I can get it close...I'll post a pic tomorrow night to see how it looks...!


 I've spent the past month doing daily emergencies like this LOL. All on T&M but it gets fairly rediculous at times. Wasn't knocking your spray in the other post btw, just not my favorite to match.

I spent a few days at our company owners new home fixing cracks and holes throughout some years ago, was not fun matching the knockdown there, knowing he'd be staring at that chit :whistling2:


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Philma Crevices said:


> I've spent the past month doing daily emergencies like this LOL. All on T&M but it gets fairly rediculous at times. Wasn't knocking your spray in the other post btw, just not my favorite to match.
> 
> I spent a few days at our company owners new home fixing cracks and holes throughout some years ago, was not fun matching the knockdown there, knowing he'd be staring at that chit :whistling2:


I've only started doing kd, so I wasn't quite ready to deal with this just yet lol. I've fixed them on flat ceilings np, but this is gonna take some finesse I think!


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

It also may help to square up the hole so you are not adding more pieces of tape than needed, just 4 pieces to tape instead of a bunch of short pieces. If you can set backing a smidge higher so the patch will be recessed it will help to hide. I would try to keep patch as small as possible


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Three pieces of tape all running the same direction will cover the whole patch. On a small patch like that I would just mesh it. Then two tight coats with five minute and then skim it out past the hot mud with regular mud. Let that sit up and sponge the edges of the patch so that there is not a definite line between the patch and the existing texture. Spray it and knock it down and it should be beautiful!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Philma Crevices said:


> , I'ved used a paint stir stick once or twice. :whistling2:


Paint stick once or twice









Great minds think a like:thumbsup:

Any way you can piss off that painter,,, do it:thumbup:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'll play devil's advocate. what about just hot mudding the patch with no tape but use a bunch of screws to really secure it. why would such a small patch ever crack. i'm not saying i would do it that way but i bet it wouldn't crack.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i would still tape it just to maintain professionalism for the record but it would for sure be the meshy stuff


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

And cgc is a division of usg who also manufacture Sheetrock brand and beadex


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Sorry wrong thread, that was meant for the fibafuse thread


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

No one's mentioned priming the patch before knocking down? I've found that if you don't prime the patch, the texture mud over the new mud has all the moisture sucked out of it, while the stuff sprayed over the paint flattens out too much. You need to have it all be the same absorbency level or it will flash.

Getplastered, you're on the right track, do it how you think you should....I like to scrape before tape to help keep the patch flatter. I also like to sponge the edges of the hot mud as it's kicking, so there are no hard edges for the topping to shrink into.


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

Ever done a hot patch.

Cut the face of the drywall bigger then the hole. Then cut the back side the size of the hole peel the rock off leaving the face bigger. Then you just hot mud around the hole and pull the paper tight. Then skim over it. I have done that many times.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Never have primed before hand, but you are right that you CAN screw it up big time by wiping the texture smooth on the paint, just takes light touch and maybe a little extra setup time on the edges of the patch. Not that it's ever happened to me :whistling2:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

A smooth finish said:


> Ever done a hot patch.
> 
> Cut the face of the drywall bigger then the hole. Then cut the back side the size of the hole peel the rock off leaving the face bigger. Then you just hot mud around the hole and pull the paper tight. Then skim over it. I have done that many times.


 
Yepper.... You can also cut a piece of rock and put mud on the back of it and the sides of the hole, then put tape behind the sheetrock and place in hole. Then wipe tape and you will be able to level the patch out. Now you can tape as normal over the patch. Nothing new here..... but I really only recommend with durabond (5 minute) and generally on walls as the ceiling patches bigger than a can light hole will want to sag down. But in all reality it is just as fast to put a piece of wood behind it and screw it together.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

A smooth finish said:


> Ever done a hot patch.
> 
> Cut the face of the drywall bigger then the hole. Then cut the back side the size of the hole peel the rock off leaving the face bigger. Then you just hot mud around the hole and pull the paper tight. Then skim over it. I have done that many times.


 Ya, we call them butterfly patches, never have tried one on a ceiling, especially canlight sized one.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

California patch is what Ive heard them called:blink:


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

Turns out because its the fridge pot, they decided to have the kitchen guy bring the cupboards right to the ceiling and then finish with a crown...so pressures off cause it will cover the hole lol


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I bet you feel like a weight has been lifted off your shoulders.:yes:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

A smooth finish said:


> Ever done a hot patch.
> 
> Cut the face of the drywall bigger then the hole. Then cut the back side the size of the hole peel the rock off leaving the face bigger. Then you just hot mud around the hole and pull the paper tight. Then skim over it. I have done that many times.


Not a good patch man. It's far better to put a piece of wood in. I can see if it's a pinch and you absolutely have to use it, but I strongly recommend against it.

That being said.....I had mud falling off the walls today because I went for a 3 coat day..................over glossy paint :whistling2: I put a sh!t pile of glue in the hot mud, but it hadn't DRIED before I put the topping on....so, the bond was weakened by the added moisture and pressure. :furious: It looked like nail-pops under tape....but it was just mud. Let's hope it stopped at the 5 spots I found as I was walking out the door. Once it's dry it'll be bomber, but until then *fingers crossed* Looks like I'll be buying some oil based primer tomorrow morning 


Come to think of it....I'm going to start a Drywall Failure thread....so maybe we can learn from each others' mistakes.


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## CatD7 (Jul 25, 2011)

Philma Crevices said:


> Ya, we call them butterfly patches, never have tried one on a ceiling, especially canlight sized one.


 

Same thing as a California patch.


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## Mudbronco (Dec 28, 2010)

*Ceiling fix*

I just repair one like it. Use insta-backer drywall repair clips. Screw the inside first then the outside to pull in the new drywall. Scrape down the surrounding knockdown a bit so you don't build up the mud. V out the edges and use 5 minute speedset to imbed the mesh tape. Carefully rub in the edges with your hands to conceal the mud. Let set up and shave down any high points or mesh tape bumps. Skim regular mud over that and pull tight rubbing in edges again. The regular mud will allow the paint to absorb better. Take some mud right from the box (not premixed) and put in your mud pan. Take some poly and roll into small ball making sure it is one piece on the face. Carefully dab on the patch a little at a time to get your background and add some variation. Let set up a few minutes then pull it with 6 inch knife in same direction as original knockdown. The trick is you might have to pull in two directions to make the blobs the same. If it looks wrong, scrape off and redo. It is an art but I have done these in kitchen and dining room ceilings and had them work out. Good luck.


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## Mudbronco (Dec 28, 2010)

*California patch*

I am not a big fan of the California patch as you have too much mud behind the paper and need to float it out too much. Stick with the the backer clips and new piece of drywall. The insta-backer clips work great and you can leave a box in your tool box and/or tool pouch. You can even use a hand held screw driver to do the install instead of a cordless screw gun.


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