# sanding marks



## lrees

I taped, mudded, and sanded this home.... They are ready to paint and i had scratch marks where i sanded and went back and sanded it again.. I got another call to come back and get rid of more scratch marks.. the scratch marks would have to be smaller than hair line.. i mean put a light on the wall and a magnifying glass to see them.. they are marks from a sanding sponge.. Is it necassary to get them lines out? Or is homeowner andpainter being to picky??... And what would be the best way to get the lines out?
thanks


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## lrees

lrees said:


> I taped, mudded, and sanded this home.... They are ready to paint and i had scratch marks where i sanded and went back and sanded it again.. I got another call to come back and get rid of more scratch marks.. the scratch marks would have to be smaller than hair line.. i mean put a light on the wall and a magnifying glass to see them.. they are marks from a sanding sponge.. Is it necassary to get them lines out? Or is homeowner andpainter being to picky??... And what would be the best way to get the lines out?
> thanks


Should I sand more or just run a skim coat over a joints and be done with it? Or let it be?


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## Corey The Taper

lrees said:


> Should I sand more or just run a skim coat over a joints and be done with it? Or let it be?


What grit did you use and ive noticed some compounds are easier to scratch then others


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## lrees

Corey The Taper said:


> What grit did you use and ive noticed some compounds are easier to scratch then others


Fine... I always use fine.. I am sanding usg blue lid. Which is very forgivable.


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## Corey The Taper

lrees said:


> Fine... I always use fine.. I am sanding usg blue lid. Which is very forgivable.


Then there probably being too picky tell them to prime it and if it shows youll come back and fix it


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## lrees

Corey The Taper said:


> Then there probably being too picky tell them to prime it and if it shows youll come back and fix it


Ok. Thanks


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## fenez

If a customer is walking around the job with a light and a magnifying glass he isnt ever going to be happy.


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## lrees

fenez said:


> If a customer is walking around the job with a light and a magnifying glass he isnt ever going to be happy.


Great point


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## Kiwiman

Tell them to get some good quality sealer and don't thin it so much, you've done your job to a good standard so it's not your fault the painter can't even hide fine sanding sponge marks.


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## cazna

Tell them to paint it first coat sealer then pick all hell out of there brush and roller marks, Turn it back on them.


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## robert seke

lrees said:


> I taped, mudded, and sanded this home.... They are ready to paint and i had scratch marks where i sanded and went back and sanded it again.. I got another call to come back and get rid of more scratch marks.. the scratch marks would have to be smaller than hair line.. i mean put a light on the wall and a magnifying glass to see them.. they are marks from a sanding sponge.. Is it necassary to get them lines out? Or is homeowner andpainter being to picky??... And what would be the best way to get the lines out?
> thanks


 
...As an abrasive specialist, I have a couple suggestions.. Make sure the face of your sponge is not loaded. If you use a loaded abrasive, you will get scratches, regardless of what type/grit you use. You can literally get a visible scratch from a 2000 grit sandpaper if it is loaded.

Also, when sandeing, try not to sand in a straight north-south or east-west motion. Try to sand in a semi circular motion. You need to try to cross sand your existing strokes. Otherwise, you will just create a deep valley which is hard to cover, no matter what you top coat it with...

I have other suggestions as well, but this is a good place to start...:thumbup:
Happy Sanding..
Rob


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## Mudstar

proper paint coverage with proper nap roller will cover and fill in 120 grit sanding scratches and you should not have to use any finer paper unless there using cheap or thinned out paint....JS


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## moore

Mudstar said:


> proper paint coverage with proper nap roller will cover and fill in 150 grit sanding scratches and you should not have to use any finer paper unless there using cheap or thinned out paint....JS


I Agree!


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## icerock drywall

always bid your jobs with primer and paint ceiling and closets....easy money :thumbup:


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## scottktmrider

Sorry to change the subjec but this is sort of related to sanding.I haven't done much tappin just patch work that didn't have to be perfect
Sometimes I have over sanded the compound and got on the raw drywall and it fured it a little. Will that show thru the paint or should something be done before painting


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## Corey The Taper

scottktmrider said:


> Sorry to change the subjec but this is sort of related to sanding.I haven't done much tappin just patch work that didn't have to be perfect
> Sometimes I have over sanded the compound and got on the raw drywall and it fured it a little. Will that show thru the paint or should something be done before painting


If it shows brown I would skim it but of its still grey should be fine


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## lrees

icerock drywall said:


> always bid your jobs with primer and paint ceiling and closets....easy money :thumbup:


What exactly do u mean by that?


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## MrWillys

Don't use USG Plus3.


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## Corey The Taper

lrees said:


> What exactly do u mean by that?


Try and spray the primer and ceilings its easy money and you know its done right


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## moore

MrWillys said:


> Don't use USG Plus3.


No.. It don't take well to a sanding block. That's what makes me wonder if the OP Is talking scratches or lines.. A new sanding block will leave lines [grooves] If the user Isn't careful ..


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> proper paint coverage with proper nap roller will cover and fill in 120 grit sanding scratches and you should not have to use any finer paper unless there using cheap or thinned out paint....JS






moore said:


> I Agree!


 
I don't :no: No way, Not with what we have here.


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## moore

cazna said:


> I don't :no: No way, Not with what we have here.


Look at my post again...I changed Mud Star's 120 to 150.


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## JustMe

moore said:


> Look at my post again...I changed Mud Star's 120 to 150.


I thought 120 sounded just about right for Mudstar, which is what got my 'Thanks'.

For myself, since I have little sanding to do, I use 180. Sometimes 150.


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## lrees

moore said:


> No.. It don't take well to a sanding block. That's what makes me wonder if the OP Is talking scratches or lines.. A new sanding block will leave lines [grooves] If the user Isn't careful ..


I fixed the deep scratches. Now its just little tiny lines. I mean small.


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## moore

lrees said:


> I fixed the deep scratches. Now its just little tiny lines. I mean small.


I half to ask....Are they throwing 2 coats of flat over your finish with no prime? I'm no painter by no means!!! But I do know a primer/sealer is the key to any paint job . :yes:


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## lrees

lrees said:


> I fixed the deep scratches. Now its just little tiny lines. I mean small.


Like the size of a writing pen makes on a piece of paper. If primer and paint dont cover that I dont see how ppl can ever sand!


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## lrees

lrees said:


> Like the size of a writing pen makes on a piece of paper. If primer and paint dont cover that I dont see how ppl can ever sand!


And what are opinions on not sanding at all. Like skim coating joints instead of sanding?


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## moore

JustMe said:


> I have little sanding to do


.....


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## JustMe

moore said:


> .....


....


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## moore

lrees said:


> Like the size of a writing pen makes on a piece of paper. If primer and paint dont cover that I dont see how ppl can ever sand!


Sounds like the scratches are in the skim coat? ?? I'm just thinking out loud!!!


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## cazna

moore said:


> Look at my post again...I changed Mud Star's 120 to 150.


 
haha, Didn't see that, Well done.


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## moore

JustMe said:


> ....


I can easily sand my seams /butts with 220...bead 150. But the angles can take a rougher sand imo...specially near the crease ...The paint brush will hide alot.


I use a 500 watt halogen on sand day [every square inch] Just to see a painter walk in with NO LIGHTS!!!.. I may as well have slapped the edges with an idiot stick and moved on!!!


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## JustMe

moore said:


> I can easily sand my seams /butts with 220...bead 150. But the angles can take a rougher sand imo...specially near the crease ...The paint brush will hide alot.
> 
> 
> I use a 500 watt halogen on sand day [every square inch] Just to see a painter walk in with NO LIGHTS!!!.. I may as well have slapped the edges with an idiot stick and moved on!!!


250W for me, for sponging after I'm done with the stick. It's all Old eyes and a Good job really needs. :whistling2: :thumbup:

All kidding aside, I'd never be concerned if I left you on a job I was responsible for.


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## moore

JustMe said:


> All kidding aside, I'd never be concerned if I left you on a job I was responsible for.


Same here Ole man!!!! :thumbsup:


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## JustMe

moore said:


> Same here Ole man!!!! :thumbsup:


:wheelchair: 

I wonder what's going to happen when you get up here and help VanMan and me drink all my homemade beer, though. One to hold the light, one to sand, and the other......? open the bottles?


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## lrees

moore said:


> I half to ask....Are they throwing 2 coats of flat over your finish with no prime? I'm no painter by no means!!! But I do know a primer/sealer is the key to any paint job . :yes:


Ceiling is getting two coats of primer... thats it. Walls I believe are 3 coats


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## Corey The Taper

JustMe said:


> :wheelchair:
> 
> I wonder what's going to happen when you get up here and help VanMan and me drink all my homemade beer, though. One to hold the light, one to sand, and the other......? open the bottles?


Can I come ill bring homemade moonshine


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## Corey The Taper

lrees said:


> Ceiling is getting two coats of primer... thats it. Walls I believe are 3 coats


Im not a painter but to me thats overkill 1 good coat of primer should be enough with a good primer. When we used to spray our jobs we did a heavy coat then sanded it the next day and sprayed the ceilings with finish


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## JustMe

Corey The Taper said:


> Can I come ill bring homemade moonshine


Sure. Just don't get your car or yourself impounded at the border.


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## lrees

Corey The Taper said:


> Im not a painter but to me thats overkill 1 good coat of primer should be enough with a good primer. When we used to spray our jobs we did a heavy coat then sanded it the next day and sprayed the ceilings with finish


Ok.. not sure but the walls are primer then two coat finish I think.


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## Corey The Taper

JustMe said:


> Sure. Just don't get your car or yourself impounded at the border.


Ill put it in a bucket of compound


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## moore

Corey The Taper said:


> Can I come ill bring homemade moonshine


I'm riding with Corey! :thumbup:


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## moore

JustMe said:


> Sure. Just don't get your car or yourself impounded at the border.


We are allowed 1 bottle. [of american liquor ] Me and Corey will half to kill that bottle of moonshine before we get to the border. :thumbup:


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## Kiwiman

JustMe said:


> Sure. Just don't get your car or yourself impounded at the border.


I've got a "still" out in the shed, haven't used it for a few years but guess what....it's legal here Jim Tom


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## VANMAN

JustMe said:


> :wheelchair:
> 
> I wonder what's going to happen when you get up here and help VanMan and me drink all my homemade beer, though. One to hold the light, one to sand, and the other......? open the bottles?


U can keep the sanding Lol!!:yes:
I will hold the light and drink the beer!:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

Corey The Taper said:


> Im not a painter but to me thats overkill 1 good coat of primer should be enough with a good primer. When we used to spray our jobs we did a heavy coat then sanded it the next day and sprayed the ceilings with finish


It is impossible not 2 get scratches when sanding!:yes:
Unless ur sanding that sh*t I was the other week!Even 80 grit on pc wouldn't touch it!:blink:
But when I painted we did 1 coat of paint then a quick pole sand before the last coat and all was good!:thumbsup:


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## Corey The Taper

VANMAN said:


> It is impossible not 2 get scratches when sanding!:yes:
> Unless ur sanding that sh*t I was the other week!Even 80 grit on pc wouldn't touch it!:blink:
> But when I painted we did 1 coat of paint then a quick pole sand before the last coat and all was good!:thumbsup:


Yep thats how we used to do it too. Now the gc has a painter coming behind us they spray the primer quick its barely even a coat its so thin. Also they dont even check if the corners are sanded or even care if its dry


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## JustMe

moore said:


> We are allowed 1 bottle. [of american liquor ] Me and Corey will half to kill that bottle of moonshine before we get to the border. :thumbup:


Great. What are Van and I going to do with a couple shined tapers? Prop you 2 up in a corner somewhere?


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## JustMe

Kiwiman said:


> I've got a "still" out in the shed, haven't used it for a few years but guess what....it's legal here Jim Tom


Legal? You guys are so much more advanced than us. :yes:

I drank myself out of drinking. Didn't touch the stuff after. Then I took up taping......


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## JustMe

VANMAN said:


> I will hold the light and drink the beer!:thumbsup:


That's what I like - a man who can multi-task. :thumbup:


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## DDay

Corey The Taper said:


> Yep thats how we used to do it too. Now the gc has a painter coming behind us they spray the primer quick its barely even a coat its so thin. Also they dont even check if the corners are sanded or even care if its dry


Same here. Gotta tell them to calm the f down. Otherwise they'd just paint on the finish coat before I'd even start to sand it. They just roam on the job site and spot a third coat then start to spray them, sanded or not.  Primed an angle an apprentice forgot to coat last week. :blink:


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## moore

JustMe said:


> Great. What are Van and I going to do with a couple shined tapers? Prop you 2 up in a corner somewhere?


I don't think It's Corey you'd half to worry about! :whistling2:


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## Corey The Taper

moore said:


> I don't think It's Corey you'd half to worry about! :whistling2:


Im not much of a drinker but when I do were going all out


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## Mudstar

moore said:


> Look at my post again...I changed Mud Star's 120 to 150.


Yeah 150 is as fine as I get with lite mud but I finish with all purpose. I like working with the harder compounds and 120 takes the ridges off with just a couple strokes. Never had any issues with paper clogging like you would cazna using 180 causing sanding marks like Irees might be having. I wait min 48 hrs for final sanding has to be bone dry and I change my paper about 6000 sqft of sanding. Sand too soon, when its not dry and you also could cause sanding marks JS


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## VANMAN

Corey The Taper said:


> Im not much of a drinker but when I do were going all out


Oh no do u go mad???:thumbup:
Mad folk r fun!!:blink:


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## Corey The Taper

VANMAN said:


> Oh no do u go mad???:thumbup:
> Mad folk r fun!!:blink:


Depends if someone messes with us while were having a good time I was drunk when I wrote that last night lol


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## JustMe

moore said:


> I don't think It's Corey you'd half to worry about! :whistling2:


My biggest concern might be letting Van get behind the wheel. Being from Scotland, he drives on the wrong side of the road even when he's sober.



Corey The Taper said:


> Depends if someone messes with us while were having a good time


There's testosteroned youth talking. :thumbsup: I'll cheer you on.


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## Corey The Taper

JustMe said:


> My biggest concern might be letting Van get behind the wheel. Being from Scotland, he drives on the wrong side of the road even when he's sober.
> 
> There's testosteroned youth talking. :thumbsup: I'll cheer you on.


Lol we can all chip in for a limo pick us all up and bring us to vegas we can all bring our mud tubes filled with water and blast people from the limo. Ill have to borrow someones though


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## JustMe

Corey The Taper said:


> Lol we can all chip in for a limo pick us all up and bring us to vegas we can all bring our mud tubes filled with water and blast people from the limo. Ill have to borrow someones though


Get a limo that floats - Van still has to get over here.

The 'VanMan Wants to Get Drunk - in Canada' campaign. Have to think on how to make that happen. Crowdfunding? &/or .......?


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## Corey The Taper

JustMe said:


> Get a limo that floats - Van still has to get over here.
> 
> The 'VanMan Wants to Get Drunk - in Canada' campaign. Have to think on how to make that happen. Crowdfunding? &/or .......?


Here in boston we have an amphibious bus tour lets rent one of those


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## moore

Corey The Taper said:


> Here in boston we have an amphibious bus tour lets rent one of those


Your from Boustin Cory? Oh hell no! I ain't drinking with you! LOL!

I have Cousins up there...They crazy Sober!!!:yes:


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## Mr.Brightstar

I used to work with a couple of brothers from Boston. Wicked crazy A holes.


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## Corey The Taper

moore said:


> Your from Boustin Cory? Oh hell no! I ain't drinking with you! LOL!
> 
> I have Cousins up there...They crazy Sober!!!:yes:


About an hr away


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## Corey The Taper

Is there a good sanding pole that I can buy from lowes or home depot. I seen the gator velcro ones for 10$ and 5 for the sheets I got a pole so just need the head.


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## Mr.Brightstar

Corey The Taper said:


> Is there a good sanding pole that I can buy from lowes or home depot. I seen the gator velcro ones for 10$ and 5 for the sheets I got a pole so just need the head.


The gator works great! It sits flat, and you really have to do something stupid for it to flip on you. The paper last a good while. Go for it, you won't be disappointed.


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## Corey The Taper

Mr.Brightstar said:


> The gator works great! It sits flat, and you really have to do something stupid for it to flip on you. The paper last a good while. Go for it, you won't be disappointed.


The reviews on it aint great im looking at home depot now at the walboard one kind of looks like the bte sander that everyone loves on here but I did see the gator this morning and it felt pretty good. This is my first pole sander so im lost


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## Mr.Brightstar

Corey The Taper said:


> The reviews on it aint great im looking at home depot now at the walboard one kind of looks like the bte sander that everyone loves on here but I did see the gator this morning and it felt pretty good. This is my first pole sander so im lost


I've been using it for awhile now and give it great reviews. The paper is good price last long and easy to change. For the price you can't go wrong.


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## Corey The Taper

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I've been using it for awhile now and give it great reviews. The paper is good price last long and easy to change. For the price you can't go wrong.


Can you use it on any paint roller I have a male head I think you call it its smaller then a broom handle head. Also how much are you paying for the paper its about 6 bucks for 6


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## Mr.Brightstar

Corey The Taper said:


> Can you use it on any paint roller I have a male head I think you call it its smaller then a broom handle head. Also how much are you paying for the paper its about 6 bucks for 6


I'm pretty sure that's all universal mounts. I use it on an extension pole, for a paint roller.


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## Corey The Taper

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I'm pretty sure that's all universal mounts. I use it on an extension pole, for a paint roller.


Well the corner roller head is different so just making sure


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## jcampbell

Corey The Taper said:


> Is there a good sanding pole that I can buy from lowes or home depot. I seen the gator velcro ones for 10$ and 5 for the sheets I got a pole so just need the head.


Those are awesome . Perfect for sanding out angles . The corners will wear out after a bit from bumping the 3ways but u can put it tight against the corner with no digging out of the opposite side . The hand sanders are 100times better than a sponge for doing final checkout with a light.


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## drywallninja

Sounds like the homeowner is a tweaker and the painter is a newbie. You've done your part. Just make sure the painter has proper material and technique. Or like Caz said, rip into his work. Good luck.


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## VANMAN

Yea just tell them after its painted if their not happy 2 go F*CK themselves!:thumbup:
U cannot not get scratches,Its impossible!!!:blink:
U must have a better customer relation's than me! Take no **** and if need b go watch the painter do his work!!:thumbsup:
I'm just a grumpy Scotsman tho!!


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## Corey The Taper

VANMAN said:


> Yea just tell them after its painted if their not happy 2 go F*CK themselves!:thumbup:
> U cannot not get scratches,Its impossible!!!:blink:
> U must have a better customer relation's than me! Take no **** and if need b go watch the painter do his work!!:thumbsup:
> I'm just a grumpy Scotsman tho!!


Lol make sure you tell them to f themselves after you get your check


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## moore

Mr.Brightstar said:


> The gator works great! It sits flat, and you really have to do something stupid for it to flip on you. The paper last a good while. Go for it, you won't be disappointed.





jcampbell said:


> Those are awesome . Perfect for sanding out angles . The corners will wear out after a bit from bumping the 3ways but u can put it tight against the corner with no digging out of the opposite side . The hand sanders are 100times better than a sponge for doing final checkout with a light.


I've been through about a half dozen of the Gator sanders ..After they get banged up I'll pitch em..They cost nothing really ! A good sponge cost just a little less than one...Like Brightstar said ..They don't flip!!

The thing I like the most Is they fit on any painters pole.


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## JustMe

moore said:


> I've been through about a half dozen of the Gator sanders ..After they get banged up I'll pitch em..They cost nothing really ! A good sponge cost just a little less than one...Like Brightstar said ..They don't flip!!
> 
> The thing I like the most Is they fit on any painters pole.


They look to have a good design. How does the sandpaper hold up on the ends? Does it 'tatter' after a bit? That was an issue I had with the flat Flex Edge design. Scratched things up a bit at times.

One thing I Don't like about things that fit on painters poles - eg. the Flex Edge - is they start to come a bit loose off the threads while sanding, and you have to re-tighten them. How are they for that? Stay tight?


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## moore

JustMe said:


> They look to have a good design. How does the sandpaper hold up on the ends? Does it 'tatter' after a bit? That was an issue I had with the flat Flex Edge design. Scratched things up a bit at times.
> 
> One thing I Don't like about things that fit on painters poles - eg. the Flex Edge - is they start to come a bit loose off the threads while sanding, and you have to re-tighten them. How are they for that? Stay tight?


I have the same problem with my 360 [metal on metal] Seems to me tho ..Plastic to metal keeps a tight fit. What I like about painters poles with a sanding head Is sometimes a short pole can work well In those tight spots ..And a quick change to the extendable will reach the high stuff..

It's the pad on the sander that gets tattered up the most .After that the scratches show up..I cut the paper back to the ends when there new ..That works well for a while till the edges get banged up..Then I'll just spray some 3m on the original paper to place on whatever I want ..The more layers the smoother She sands.


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## JustMe

moore said:


> I have the same problem with my 360 [metal on metal] Seems to me tho ..Plastic to metal keeps a tight fit. What I like about painters poles with a sanding head Is sometimes a short pole can work well In those tight spots ..And a quick change to the extendable will reach the high stuff..
> 
> It's the pad on the sander that gets tattered up the most .After that the scratches show up..I cut the paper back to the ends when there new ..That works well for a while till the edges get banged up..Then I'll just spray some 3m on the original paper to place on whatever I want ..The more layers the smoother She sands.


Extendable handle is what I have with my BTE Super Sander, as well - 3'-6'. The one I now have has been with me for awhile. A good quality twist type lock, so fast to reduce or lengthen, to whatever length: http://www.westtechtools.com/betterthaneverextensionpole3-6.aspx

There seemed some quality issues mentioned by people who posted reviews for the Gator, one saying on one site that his plastic pole (plastic end?) broke easily - so maybe don't get the pole as well, if can help it?

Another site's reviews listed a few issues that you mentioned, with 1 and 3 stars given to it by a couple guys. But 'flowergirl' gave it 5 stars. :whistling2:  

http://www.lowes.com/pd_246937-1069-7155_0__?productId=1207937#BVRRWidgetID


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## JustMe

Having said all that, if the Gator works well for some of you, Great. I'll take your word for it.


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## moore

...... :whistling2:


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## JustMe

moore said:


> ...... :whistling2:


 Lol. :thumbsup:


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## eurobound

DDay said:


> Same here. Gotta tell them to calm the f down. Otherwise they'd just paint on the finish coat before I'd even start to sand it. They just roam on the job site and spot a third coat then start to spray them, sanded or not.  Primed an angle an apprentice forgot to coat last week. :blink:


i have this problem right now as well... primer/ finish paint is no better than water and they sometimes come in on Saturday morning at 6am and start spraying right behind my tapers as they finish sanding the last couple suites... 

and they sometimes do the 2nd coat on top of my wet touch-ups... not even dry or sanded yet...

I'm getting called on hairline scratches that are only visible with a 500 watt bulb sideways with your nose 3 inches away...

and i'm getting called back to skim the walls because all the natural sunlight coming from floor to ceiling windows is showing everything... I thought after 2nd coat of paint that the texture of mud and paper could be blended together ?? 

every discussion the GC has with me never includes the painter despite all my research and discussion with tapers indicating that a proper finish is a joint effort between framer/drywaller/taper AND painter!! 



already asked to call in a master painter but the GC refused and just put more pressure on me... the contract specifically states "level 4 finish" and that's it... that's what we have provided and it was always sufficient in the past but now... what the hell!?

anyways sorry for the rant I am getting torched royally on a high-rise project and I'm just trying to figure out how to defend myself...


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## MacDry

There actually is a code for what a level 4 finish is. I think it's a 100w light bulb held 4 feet from the wall so most of us exceed that anyways. Find the code and show it to the GC and tell him how much for a level 5. Cha ching


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## moore

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...-ch5-finishing-drywall-systems-can-en-pdf.pdf


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## moore

http://nationalgypsum.com/resources/tech-talk-revisiting.htm


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## eurobound

MacDry said:


> There actually is a code for what a level 4 finish is. I think it's a 100w light bulb held 4 feet from the wall so most of us exceed that anyways. Find the code and show it to the GC and tell him how much for a level 5. Cha ching


done that and they just told us they want more... and they won't give us more... 

we definitely meet the "level 4" criteria with flying colors... I have had 4 tapers go through with a light and the GC has had 2 touch-up guys go through with a light and they now want me to skim most of the walls... it's not fun... and we have (or had) a really good 15 year relationship with this GC... not units aren't selling as well and they want to take it out on us... 

any other input greatly appreciated... looks like it's going to be quite the battle still... final coat paint starts in 2 weeks...


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## eurobound

moore said:


> http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...-ch5-finishing-drywall-systems-can-en-pdf.pdf


believe it or not they are quoting the same documents against me!


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## moore

eurobound said:


> believe it or not they are quoting the same documents against me!


Are they back rolling while spraying the primer? Are they using a drywall primer /sealer?


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## MrWillys

All critical lighting areas should be spec'd level 5, and you shouldn't be held responsible for an incorrect spec.

http://www.gypsum.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/GA-214-10e-webversion.pdf

Read here about the differences.


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## eurobound

moore said:


> Are they back rolling while spraying the primer? Are they using a drywall primer /sealer?


they spray the closets and ceilings and there is no back rolling. I don't think they are using a drywall primer / sealer - I haven't managed to snap a picture of their primer or sealer (whatever they are using)... all I know for the moment is they use Cloverdale Paints... 

do all companies have a "drywall primer/sealer" or are you talking about one of the specialty coatings that some manufacturers supply?

thanks again...


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## eurobound

MrWillys said:


> All critical lighting areas should be spec'd level 5, and you shouldn't be held responsible for an incorrect spec.
> 
> http://www.gypsum.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/GA-214-10e-webversion.pdf
> 
> Read here about the differences.


agreed... that's what we've told them... they have the same document in their own hands and still argue against me! 

has anyone dealt with a master painter before?


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## Mr.Brightstar

They should be useing a PVA primer. Also i would think the painter would spray and backroll everything at once. 

If you think it's a vendetta against you, look around the site and point out all the loose ends. It should take the heat off you for a minute.


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## MrWillys

eurobound said:


> agreed... that's what we've told them... they have the same document in their own hands and still argue against me!
> 
> has anyone dealt with a master painter before?


 The problem is that the facepaper and the finishing compounds absorb the moisture from the primer at a different rate that creates a difference that is seen in direct light. You were contracted to level 4 and provided that finish, so it is what it is, and if they want to upgrade to level 5 then provide the additional cost. With GA-214 they would lose in court, or arbitration. Again, level 5 is required for critical lighting areas, so just keep pounding it home. You can't expect a Cadillac, and pay for a Focus.
Also, if the painter paints prior to your release he should bear the additional cost to refinish.


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