# quick question on sanding



## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

After all coats I go through and sand evrything. I have heard to not scuff board. When I sand my screwheads it roughs the paper just a little. Is that something to worry about?


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

As long as your painters backroll shouldn't ever be an issue


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

lrees said:


> After all coats I go through and sand evrything. I have heard to not scuff board. When I sand my screwheads it roughs the paper just a little. Is that something to worry about?


depends as 2buck sanded screws with 120, but I think that is shyte, what grit is your paper, 180 is as low as I go


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I use 120 on the pole, but I knock it down first.


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## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> depends as 2buck sanded screws with 120, but I think that is shyte, what grit is your paper, 180 is as low as I go


1st coat by hand, 2nd with 2inch spotter, a light sand then. Final coat with 3 inch. Used a fine sponge last.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

lrees said:


> 1st coat by hand, 2nd with 2inch spotter, a light sand then. Final coat with 3 inch. Used a fine sponge last.


dont use nail spotter on walls myself, only under smackdown Tex with lite sand

Sunlit walls show all and cheap primer watered down is hard to work with, I do a bit more and avoid headaches, I dont sweep nails anymore just individual spots, only sweep if warehouse, or tex or pre Level 5

I dusted a few cars in my life and learned alot

3 spot with as watery a possible for last coat completely covering previous spots so easyer sanding, no layering


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

ALWAYS damp sponge walls after sanding for smooth. Removes dust and lays furred paper flat.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Nothing wrong with fuzzed paper. If the painter does anything correct then it will be fine. Painter needs to either back roll the prime coat and/or sand prime coat. Sanding the prime coat is a necessity anyway. You will run into flashing problems only if the painter screws up.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> ALWAYS damp sponge walls after sanding for smooth. Removes dust and lays furred paper flat.


That's prep for paint. Painters job! Not mines!


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

moore said:


> That's prep for paint. Painters job! Not mines!


If the sponging is too wet it will wash mud out of the screw heads. I don't leave even a task like that to others, and then play the blame game if there is a problem. When we turn a job over to the painters it is ready to paint.


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## lnidrywall (Jan 18, 2010)

*Quick question on sanding*

Wet sponging the walls to remove dust is overkill. I don't want anybody putting any water on my walls. I've never had a "real" painter complain about dusting the walls before they paint anyway. Either the painters don't understand their job or somebody's grinding on some rough finish work. Sorry, just the mood I'm in.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

lnidrywall said:


> Wet sponging the walls to remove dust is overkill. I don't want anybody putting any water on my walls. I've never had a "real" painter complain about dusting the walls before they paint anyway. Either the painters don't understand their job or somebody's grinding on some rough finish work. Sorry, just the mood I'm in.


That's fine. There's room in this world for all kinds of drywallers. As I said, when I tell the painters it is ready to paint, it is ready to paint. No blame game.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Nothing wrong with fuzzed paper. If the painter does anything correct then it will be fine. Painter needs to either back roll the prime coat and/or sand prime coat. Sanding the prime coat is a necessity anyway. You will run into flashing problems only if the painter screws up.


What he says,,,,but having said that:whistling2:

Depends on mud used, taping mud may need 100 grit to grind it down, well finishing/topping mud may need 180/220 to sand it.

But notice u said u use nail spotters, DWC in my neck of the woods band them, though I told them they can pay me more money if I cant use tools that make my job more faster. But in one part I maybe getting away with spotter bc I sand with a Power sander. Plus if i do a small job I do last coat by hand, and on ceilings,,,,since my drywall king sander wont sand ceilings,,, (unless ceilings 5 ft high :whistling2

There is something about the nail spotter being more noticeable after sanding. They do take a bit more muscle to sand out, which can lead to burring. But I think it's more of a brain game, it may sound nuts, but people notice more of a square railroad effect, so it tends to FLASH out on the wall,,, which leads to a fight of painter or taper finish problem.

So some people maybe to dam fussy with this crap drywall being put out on the market these days. I swear to GOD, the next house I do I want the rockers to install the drywall on backwards. The paper and the bevell looks better on the back sheet of the rock,,,,check it out when u can everyone :yes:

But back to your problem,,,, yes that little rough sand u do on your second coat does help if your pole sanding your flats. Just try to use a very easy sand topping mud to sand with. Another dumb thing is to run your 3" spotter more left on 2nd coat, then more right on 3rd coat, so your finish ends up around 5" wide,,, helps a bit.

Or something I learned from this site,,,, invest in a power sander, and it wont matter how you coat your screws, you could do them with a shovel, and the power sander will rip that mud right off :thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Yeah Rick .. The boards are a joke these days Nation wide ! Except one place ! North Carolina! Everything's hunky dory down there !!!:whistling2:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

How are you getting on with the power sander 2Buck? Are you using it to finish sand yet?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Try a DM 5.5 box for finishing screws. :thumbsup:


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

80 grit sandpaper


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## Wellst95 (Apr 17, 2019)

I always do the first layer by hand


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