# Prefill all your seams??



## loudcry184

Here's a random finishing question. Do any of you prefill all your seams with durabond even if they are nice and tight? I heard a drywaller say that they have issues with paper tape bubbling or creasing in the middle if they do not prefill all their seams first. I know what he's talking about, I have seen that before in my taping, but I have never noticed it to be an issue after coating them. Any thoughts?


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## Ultros

In my experiences. It depends on the quality of the hang, the level of finish, and the taping method. I prefer to use all purpose with no water added instead of durabond. If the seams are tight. No need to prefill. 
When wet taping (bazooka/banjo), the mud and tape seems more likely to suck up into the joint. (More water, more shrink. Of course).
I tend to prefil any gap over 1/8". And IF the tape sucks into a seam, I'll just use less water on first coat. I say its better to fill it before you tape. Makes for a cleaner job.


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## moore

loudcry184 said:


> Here's a random finishing question. Do any of you prefill all your seams with durabond even if they are nice and tight? I heard a drywaller say that they have issues with paper tape bubbling or creasing in the middle if they do not prefill all their seams first. I know what he's talking about, I have seen that before in my taping, but I have never noticed it to be an issue after coating them. Any thoughts?


The rounded edges on the **** board almost need a pre fill before tape.

Almost impossible to get a tight fit on the recess with these boards now.

Certainteed board is the worse . The light weight boards [N/G USG] have no recess ! So if the gap in the recess ridges out It can cause a problem . The wallboard makers have been ****ing us since 2007 !


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## Bazooka-Joe

loudcry184 said:


> Here's a random finishing question. Do any of you prefill all your seams with durabond even if they are nice and tight? I heard a drywaller say that they have issues with paper tape bubbling or creasing in the middle if they do not prefill all their seams first. I know what he's talking about, I have seen that before in my taping, but I have never noticed it to be an issue after coating them. Any thoughts?


hey Kalamazoo dude, around the great lakes its so humid you have to seal joints


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## taper71

When I start a new tape job , usually my first day is spent filling gaps and fixing screws, taping the 1" gaps, cutting out broken corners, and building new ones, or bevelled edges where the delivery guys strapped down too hard and either california patch or if its small enough fast set with fibafuse. also cutting out the bevelled edge where the delivery guys dropped board from 4 foot, crushing the bevels. A lot of prep work on first day. Most times I don't even bother with the badzooka until day 2


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## endo_alley

Yes, we prefer to prefill all joints ant angle gaps before taping. It seems like a pain. But everything else goes a little easier after words. And the bands don't take much mud on the fill coat. So you make up a little time there.


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## bmitch

moore said:


> The rounded edges on the **** board almost need a pre fill before tape.
> 
> Almost impossible to get a tight fit on the recess with these boards now.
> 
> Certainteed board is the worse . The light weight boards [N/G USG] have no recess ! So if the gap in the recess ridges out It can cause a problem . The wallboard makers have been ****ing us since 2007 !


I know certainteed from our end isn't produced from the same plant ,but we have the very same issues.if I don't do a tight prefill on the joints it will crown out on the tape.to much mud left behind the tape even with a tight wipe.If its boarded with sheetrock(Usg) I don't have to prefill.


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## Spencer

Why are the manufactures making it this way if the rounded edge is causing these issues?

I have the same problem with my tape. I always prefill because a ridge forms otherwise. Glad to know why. I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong...


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## moore

Spencer said:


> Why are the manufactures making it this way if the rounded edge is causing these issues?
> 
> .


They don't care about the product they make!

Only how much coin they can make off the product ! 


If I were new to this trade I wouldn't know any different . But I Myself remember when pre-filling the seams was un- heard of . V ING Out the fuzzy factory butt joints  was never needed .. And high shoulders was NEVER an issue! 


[Welcome to DWT Spenc!]


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## embella plaster

endo_alley said:


> Yes, we prefer to prefill all joints ant angle gaps before taping. It seems like a pain. But everything else goes a little easier after words. And the bands don't take much mud on the fill coat. So you make up a little time there.


To true mate some times the better your prep is the better the end result them bubbles are worth more stress then a couple hour pre fill over hole job fibafuse is pretty forgiving


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## Spencer

moore said:


> They don't care about the product they make!
> 
> Only how much coin they can make off the product !
> 
> 
> If I were new to this trade I wouldn't know any different . But I Myself remember when pre-filling the seams was un- heard of . V ING Out the fuzzy factory butt joints was never needed .. And high shoulders was NEVER an issue!
> 
> 
> [Welcome to DWT Spenc!]


Thanks! Was reading threads on here last night. Didn't take me long to figure out who my ol pall blacktop was. :thumbup:


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## loudcry184

Sounds like fibafuse tape will solve the issue of the rounded edges in the board and fuzzy paper butt joints.


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## mld

Spencer said:


> Thanks! Was reading threads on here last night. Didn't take me long to figure out who my ol pall blacktop was. :thumbup:


Shhhh!! That's our own little secret!


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## mld

loudcry184 said:


> Sounds like fibafuse tape will solve the issue of the rounded edges in the board and fuzzy paper butt joints.


FF has slowly lost my vote. Pretty much completely off the wagon now. Still love the wide rolls for repair and such, but the seam tape is too weak, peaks out and cracks. Now I realize much if not all of these problems are related to the crap board we deal with, but when problems come up the FF gets blamed immediately. Paper tape just hides the issues better and they take longer to show up.


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## VANMAN

mld said:


> FF has slowly lost my vote. Pretty much completely off the wagon now. Still love the wide rolls for repair and such, but the seam tape is too weak, peaks out and cracks. Now I realize much if not all of these problems are related to the crap board we deal with, but when problems come up the FF gets blamed immediately. Paper tape just hides the issues better and they take longer to show up.


I won't use it until they come out with the non creased tape!
But I'm not holding my breath on that happening as the trail seems to have went cold on that issue!!


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## Spencer

mld said:


> FF has slowly lost my vote. Pretty much completely off the wagon now. Still love the wide rolls for repair and such, but the seam tape is too weak, peaks out and cracks. Now I realize much if not all of these problems are related to the crap board we deal with, but when problems come up the FF gets blamed immediately. Paper tape just hides the issues better and they take longer to show up.





VANMAN said:


> I won't use it until they come out with the non creased tape!
> But I'm not holding my breath on that happening as the trail seems to have went cold on that issue!!


I don't like hearing this. I just started using it.

Taped up a bathroom with it on butts and tapers today. 

Trying to use it in corners is a lost cause. Tears way to easy. I was hoping it was good on the flats but maybe not...


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## icerock drywall

Spencer said:


> I don't like hearing this. I just started using it.
> 
> Taped up a bathroom with it on butts and tapers today.
> 
> Trying to use it in corners is a lost cause. Tears way to easy. I was hoping it was good on the flats but maybe not...


the only time I got peeking from ff was because of the butts needed screws and as soon as I get my blue profuse crease less ff, I fibatape all butts before I tape coat with ff


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## moore

Spencer said:


> Thanks! Was reading threads on here last night. Didn't take me long to figure out who my ol pall blacktop was. :thumbup:





mld said:


> Shhhh!! That's our own little secret!


I don't know what you guys are talkin bout! :whistling2:


Did you vote?? :laughing:


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## Mr.Brightstar

Ive had the FF split on the crease when tapeing flats. I still use it in angles with a roller. 

They could do away with the crease.

http://youtu.be/wtJ1Gnh9wPU


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## mld

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Ive had the FF split on the crease when tapeing flats. I still use it in angles with a roller.
> 
> They could do away with the crease.
> 
> http://youtu.be/wtJ1Gnh9wPU


Yep, and then you get into winter and all the angles split open too. Don't trust it anymore.


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## Mr.Brightstar

Oh chit! 


http://youtu.be/wtJ1Gnh9wPU


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## mld

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Oh chit!
> 
> http://youtu.be/wtJ1Gnh9wPU


Hey, I know, it's tough to admit something you love is wrong. Just tell yourself it's not the fibafuse it's the sheetrock. The fibafuse didn't really mean to let you down, it just got seduced by bad board.


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## moore

What did the roll of fiber fuse say to the roll of mesh?



























SUCKERS!!!!!


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## Mr.Brightstar

moore said:


> What did the roll of fiber fuse say to the roll of mesh?
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> http://youtu.be/wtJ1Gnh9wPU


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## Bevelation

To make an on - topic comment...

I prefill almost every butt out of square and flat that's not tight.
I usually never prefill angles unless the gap is bigger than the half width of a tape.


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## endo_alley

Bevelation said:


> To make an on - topic comment...
> 
> I prefill almost every butt out of square and flat that's not tight.
> I usually never prefill angles unless the gap is bigger than the half width of a tape.


We prefill all gaps with setting mud. And pretty much never put tape over air. I know there are different levels of workmanship quality and price in this trade.


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## Bevelation

^ I neglected to mention that yes; I use setting compound or even confill for prefilling where i can. I used to prefill with tape mud out of the box, but it's not thick like it used to be.


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## moore

Bevelation said:


> To make an on - topic comment...
> 
> 
> I usually never prefill angles unless the gap is bigger than the half width of a tape.


If I'm reading you right. Half the width of the tape is 1''


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## mld

moore said:


> If I'm reading you right. Half the width of the tape is 1''


Must be using fibafuse, eh Moore??


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## shack

so all u machiners walk around with hand trowels and prefil any gaps? butt seams and corners it sounds like are the big thing. new mudder here trying to better my skills anyway i can. thanks alot


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## mld

shack said:


> so all u machiners walk around with hand trowels and prefil any gaps? butt seams and corners it sounds like are the big thing. new mudder here trying to better my skills anyway i can. thanks alot


If you are new to the game prefill everything. It will make your life so much better.


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## shack

mld said:


> If you are new to the game prefill everything. It will make your life so much better.


ive been mudding for a couple years. all hand. other then making it a bit easier.. does it help in anyway to prevent any cracks or failures? as in, having a better base for your paper or ff or mesh etc to adhere too


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## mld

shack said:


> ive been mudding for a couple years. all hand. other then making it a bit easier.. does it help in anyway to prevent any cracks or failures? as in, having a better base for your paper or ff or mesh etc to adhere too


Mainly it helps prevent problems from crappy board. Light weight board likes to swell and shrink, crack, de-laminate, and move. Prefill helps find the problem areas and fill the voids.


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## Bevelation

moore said:


> If I'm reading you right. Half the width of the tape is 1''


No. Half the width of the tape is 1 1/32".



Truth is, I prefill an angle over half inch gap. Or double tape it. I see no point in prefilling angles gapped smaller. It will just crack and fall out over time anyway. 


I actually don't remember that many times where i had to prefill an angle. I don't like boardmen doing crap work.


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## shack

Bevelation said:


> No. Half the width of the tape is 1 1/32".
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> Truth is, I prefill an angle over half inch gap. Or double tape it. I see no point in prefilling angles gapped smaller. It will just crack and fall out over time anyway.
> 
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> I actually don't remember that many times where i had to prefill an angle. I don't like boardmen doing crap work.


i once prefilled 1/2" angle in closet and i came back a week later, and it was cracked and seperated from the board. so would it still happen even if it had been taped and coated? (crack and fall loose)


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## Bevelation

^Probably. It likely shrank back over that time. I am all for prefilling, just not angles. It's not like you need strength on an inside 90 like you do an outside 90. If a gappy angle is taped and there's a void from the gap, just fill it after. I call it postfill.


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## endo_alley

shack said:


> ive been mudding for a couple years. all hand. other then making it a bit easier.. does it help in anyway to prevent any cracks or failures? as in, having a better base for your paper or ff or mesh etc to adhere too


Yes, yes and yes.


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## moore

Bevelation said:


> If a gappy angle is taped and there's a void from the gap, just fill it after. I call it postfill.


That makes no sense to me.


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## moore

.....


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## Bevelation

moore said:


> That makes no sense to me.


I was half serious saying that. Like I said, all for flats and butts prefilled, but like what you're 1st pic showed the section of prefill on a gap barely 1/4" looks nice but pretty redundant. Done enough jobs where the same result is acheived filling it twice after tape as before on an angle, and nothing falls out after. I get to thinking about it now, and it pretty much works out to the same.


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## moore

National L/W. Gotta cut it out !


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## moore

CertainTeed will pass .. Clean cuts on the factory butts ..Just a horrible high shoulder mess with the seams . And I never have to prefill the seams with certainteed ... Why bother ? I gotta bust all the seams out like a butt joint anyway !!


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## fr8train

Previous 2 jobs, were all Certainteed, wasn't horrible with the high shoulders. I did notice that the bevels were wide and deep.


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## Mudstar

prefill what a waste of time. I think you have to learn how to wipe your tapes. JS


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## fr8train

I generally only pre-fill gaps, bastard butts, and moshed edges that I've cut out.


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## icerock drywall

fr8train said:


> I generally only pre-fill gaps, bastard butts, and moshed edges that I've cut out.


10-4 to that


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## moore

Mudstar said:


> prefill what a waste of time. I think you have to learn how to wipe your tapes. JS


I know how to wipe tapes ...They don't know how to make board! 

The Light weight boards are the ones that I v the fuzz and prefill the butts. I only prefill the ceiling seams .

The Certainteed regular board has such high shoulders I have plenty of recess . No need to prefill ..And there factory butts are fairly clean so no prefill needed.


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## moore

Bevelation said:


> I was half serious saying that. Like I said, all for flats and butts prefilled, but like what you're 1st pic showed the section of prefill on a gap barely 1/4" looks nice but pretty redundant. Done enough jobs where the same result is acheived filling it twice after tape as before on an angle, and nothing falls out after. I get to thinking about it now, and it pretty much works out to the same.


We both tape our angles differently .


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## Bazooka-Joe

fr8train said:


> Previous 2 jobs, were all Certainteed, wasn't horrible with the high shoulders. I did notice that the bevels were wide and deep.
> View attachment 15169
> View attachment 15177


holy sheep herder Mexican style man Moore that angle gives me the creeps


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## moore

Bazooka-Joe said:


> holy sheep herder Mexican style man Moore that angle gives me the creeps


We can't all be Union Joe! :thumbsup:


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## fr8train

What's wrong with that angle?


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## fr8train

You realize, that's only glazed behind the taper, right? That was not what I left as the final product


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## sheetrock pete

the drywall in new York is terrible, and if it's not, the delivery guy's will make sure it is. you just do the best you can. This light weight board is a joke! The whole business is anymore!


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## Sweendog87

fr8train said:


> You realize, that's only glazed behind the taper, right? That was not what I left as the final product


I thought so mate I see what you saying the very deep recess over here they would be like that before taping


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