# Hydrotrim



## JustMe

From the makers of No-Coat, has anyone tried Hydrotrim out yet?

http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/hydrotrim/

Up here in Canada, it might possibly be distributed by Certainteed under the name Aquabead.


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## 2buckcanuck

there's a thread on this under drywall supplies,page three.....called hydro trim is awesome:yes:


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## JustMe

Didn't think to look so far back. I just came across it this weekend, and you people were already discussing it back in June. THanks, 2buck.


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## Tim0282

Tried it and don't really like it. Was hard to cover with mud. Took an extra coat for us.


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## JustMe

Tim0282 said:


> Tried it and don't really like it. Was hard to cover with mud. Took an extra coat for us.


Thanks, Tim. Any idea why? Eg. Mud used for initial coat shrunk back too much compared to the way you're used to doing corners? I could see that happening especially if lots of exposed corner gaps showing through the holes. But the others on the other thread 2buck mentioned seemed to like it well enough.


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## Tim0282

I looked and used another brand. Aqua Bead. Looked at Hydro. It looks far better. There were so many holes in the bead to help it stick, I guess. They all just kinda pop out with first coat. Took three good coats. I'm gonna try them again. Once isn't enough to really judge. I was a little hasty saying what I did. They are a little pricey at 3.75 each for ten footers.


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## JustMe

Thanks again, Tim. I thought AquaBead and HydroTrim might be the same thing, just sold under different names. But after your last post, I found some online pics and compared. I see Aqua is using 4 rows of holes per side, compared to Hydro's 3. I could see where that 4th inside row could cause some extra coating and shrinkage problems, with it more likely to position itself over sometimes deeper gaps where the board corners meet.


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## JustMe

Regarding the # of hole rows in HydroTrim:

Something I'm finding a bit strange, when I'm watching again the opening video in the link I posted in my 1st post. It looks like some of the sticks have 3 holes per side, while others have 4, all supposedly being used on the same demo job(?) Example: He puts on a 4 row hole piece, and then tears off a 3 row piece to show its bonding strength. Is it my eyes deceiving?


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## Tim0282

Does seem strange. I will have to take a second look. Just seemed like the holes were hard to fill. I'm going to try them again Don't want to write them off too quickly. I will say, instead of your hand being cacked with mud from applying mud on beads, they are quite sticky with glue. Trade off.


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## JustMe

The Certainteed rep is supposed to be demonstrating this week their AquaBead to the fellow running our crews. I'll see if I can get a chance to find out something about this hole issue.

A thought with regards to your problem filling the holes, Tim: I see you're already using Vario (I haven't been able to get hold of some up here in Canada to try yet). Could you skim some of that over the holes to partially or wholly fill them, let it dry, skiff sand if needed, then coat over that? If it doesn't shrink and dries as fast as is said, maybe that would be of use.

With Vario's extra polymer bonding ability, maybe it would be good to use it for that as well - help the sticks to stick better and maybe give a little more structural strength to the corners.


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## JustMe

Tim,

The Certainteed rep demo'd their AquaBead yesterday, and I'll be trying some on my next job.

Btw: AquaBead is made by the same outfit that makes HydroTrim (Structus). See bottom of 1st page of link below:

http://www.certainteed.com/resources/CTG-4019_PR_AquaBead_SS_Eng.pdf

I'm going to try and get some Hydro as well to use, though, to see if there is any difference between the 2, and if so, if it seems significant.


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## 2buckcanuck

I'm I reading this link wrong it says
"Beaded paper-plastic-paper design"
does it come in paper too???????????


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## JustMe

Reads to me like that's the makeup of AquaBead, 2buck.

The link says they have L-trim - which I could use on this next job. Yet the Certainteed rep said they didn't have such yet.

And he didn't know about the 3 hole rows and 4 hole rows difference thing. So will have to do more homework on it.

It is supposed to be coming out with more configurations, such as what we sometimes call 'fast mask' around here, for finishing things like along the tops of walls where T-bar ceilings are going in.


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## 2buckcanuck

compare the nose/edge of the hydro trim when you get your hands on some to paper bead,looked too large to me in demonstration video,looks like it would take too much mud to load,could be why guys are finding it takes a extra coat


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## Mudstar

Great bead for the messy taper this stick on bead, water activated stuff. Though there's a warning that after application the bead will be adhered permanently and can't be reset if need be. 

I wonder how long it takes before its sets?


It looks like another product that takes the same process and time or longer to apply as mud applied type bead as far as it looks to me, just less mess and more likely more cost for the same outside corner look. 

Is it guaranteed if installed properly, not to crack, or satisfaction guaranteed?

That's the questions I have...............

battle of the beads sounds like more fun then the tape wars of the past 

JS


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna............we got some new bead for you to test:whistling2:


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## cazna

Dont think i wouldnt 2buck :jester: You know me well for such a short space of time. :thumbup:


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> compare the nose/edge of the hydro trim when you get your hands on some to paper bead,looked too large to me in demonstration video,looks like it would take too much mud to load,could be why guys are finding it takes a extra coat


Keeping in mind that the bead, itself, helps fill in some of the area traditionally needing mud, maybe it depends mostly on how tight one consistently positions their paper bead corners(?) 

I did get a chance to put some of the new bead on in the last few days. It looks like it will take a little more mud than what I'm usually used to. But I often use 2 knives to help position my paper bead corners tighter than pretty much all those I've worked with, so that affects mud requirements between them and me.

I had a little time on Friday to box a bit of the new bead I'd put on around some interior window cut-outs, using an 8" Columbia FatBoy for the outsides and a 5.5" Drywall Master for the insides. The time saved from being able to do that well enough, quick enough, might more than offset any additional material costs for many. And the bead did seem to go on quick enough, even for my being new to it. Once I get more comfortable with it, things will go faster.

As for needing an extra coat, that's something I'll have to yet see about. I sometimes see such problems as possibly being a result of things like people concaving their knives maybe a little too much while mudding - not enough left behind to sand things out well enough. And if you don't install the new bead quite right, by not pushing the bead corners in enough to get the bead legs to sit totally flush with the wall, I could see that possibly creating a coating problem as well, by adding height to the hole areas and 'bounce' into the legs - at least till the 1st coat hardened enough to solidify things up. (I'm talking about installing it by hand here, and not using a No-Coat roller. No problems I found with getting glue on the hands.)
But if coating does prove an issue for some other reason, I could see hand coating my 2nd coat by floating out the knife end that's not riding on the bead (but then feathering the edge), to leave a little more mud over the holes for shrinkage and finish sanding. Maybe that would take care of things well enough.

I did get a chance to 2nd coat and sand some of this bead on another job last weekend - a rushed large reno job. There were install problems in places, which caused some coating problems. Nothing serious enough that the bead had to be removed and replaced, though.
The tapers who put the bead on weren't familiar with it, and were given things like hand squeeze pump sprayers for water, which would've probably given inconsistent water coverage. I also was told that some weren't at times waiting the 30 seconds recommended before putting it on, so the glue could activate well enough.
But the bead did help bring the job in on time. The GC and customer were happy.



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Mudstar said:


> I wonder how long it takes before its sets?


As one of the videos in the link I initially posted says, depends a lot on how much water you use. It's what I found to be the case with the pieces I was putting on. The video said that if you want more time to install in more difficult areas, use more water.

I bought a $14 Spray Maker manual pressure sprayer from Canadian Tire to use - http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/2/OutdoorLiving/FertilizersGrassSeed/PressurizedSprayers.jsp

I set it on as fine a mist as possible, so it gave a consistent coating spray and didn't spatter. Once I got a bit of a feel for about the right amount of water to put on, the pieces became not much of a problem to work with.



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Mudstar said:


> Is it guaranteed if installed properly, not to crack, or satisfaction guaranteed?
> 
> That's the questions I have...............


Their limited warranty: http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/hydrotrim/tech_info/Warranty/


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## JustMe

....http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/hydrotrim/tech_info/Warranty/


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## 2buckcanuck

good post just me,I'm not keen on plastic bead,But when it comes to bull nose ,I prefer it over the paper,better to miter,adjust and no burrs that you get on the round like you do with paper.
where I suck is with the glue.I seem to get it every where.No matter how careful I am ,I always half to clean of some glue where it should not be at the end of the job.And I only use the glue on the straight up and down beads,so I really suck at the glue.
So yes this hydro trim does interest me,and you said your hands did not get sticky.......bonus
It does come in bull nose right? (too lazy to google)


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## JustMe

Glad you understood what I said, 2buck. Wasn't sure if some of my points would come across well enough.

It's not available in bullnose yet, as far as I know. Just the corner bead, which can also be flattened and formed for outside offset angles, and L-trim.

I really don't think you'll find the glue getting away on you to be any real problem here. Try a few pieces and see. There is a bit of learning curve, but not bad, I found.

Speaking of glue, a glue solution:

I was given this bead for a test run/evaluation. One problem that the manufacturer pointed out was that the bead's glue doesn't like to stick well to already mudded areas. But I ran tapes in the flats to beneath where the bead was to go on anyway, as is normally done when using other bead - figured that if possible, it maybe wasn't something that should be changed as to how things normally get done. I also 1st coated those spots when running a box (tried your wait 10 minutes boxing method - nice) and then sanded those areas a bit, to make them level with the rest of the wall.

Tried sticking some of the new bead on the mudded and sanded spots, and it wouldn't. Thought to maybe use a staple or 2 at those points to take care of the problem. Then a company estimator came by to see how it was working. His suggestion was to try spraying a little Trim-Tex glue over the taped problem area just before putting the bead on. Tried it and it seemed to work fine, with no seeming negative reaction between the 2 glues. I'm going to check it again tomorrow.


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## 2buckcanuck

I can get it to stick
my problem is the spray can glue,I get it on the ceilings,windows,fire place,etc.....guess it's that bathroom problem the girls say us guys have ......aim
maybe I need a bigger can


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> And I only use the glue on the straight up and down beads,so I really suck at the glue.


I've been wondering why only straight up and down beads?

I finished boxing yesterday the rest of the HydroTrim I'd put on Friday and Monday (I'm actually using Certainteed's brand name AquaBead. But they're both made by Structus, so I'm thinking/hoping they're both of the same quality. I'm going to check, anyway.)

Everything went well enough, except for a couple pieces I'd put on Friday. A couple loose spots showed up on them. But the 1st mud coat should stabilize them enough. And they're along the top of where some interior windows are going in, so little worry about someone banging into them and breaking something loose.

Those problem pieces were the 1st I'd put on, to get a feel for the bead. I figured doing out of the way areas to get through the learning curve would be a better place to start.

I think the biggest issue with them letting go was that I didn't have a watch with a second hand, just guessing as to when 30 seconds was up after I'd sprayed the pieces before putting them on. I did use a watch for the pieces I put on Monday, and no problems showed up with them. At least not yet.

One thing I wouldn't do with this bead is turn someone loose with it who hasn't had any experience or training putting it on - or at the very least watched some of the videos in the link I'd posted in my 1st post, like the 'applying water' one.

I also wouldn't let them do doorway areas and the like - places where it can get banged up some - till they were familiar enough with actually putting it on.

So far as I see it, key is the water, and to a degree, getting right the install timing for the amount of water being put on. Also, if you're putting it on by hand, push the corner in till the legs are sitting flush on the wall. I mentioned that before. On the next job I'm going to test it on, I'm going to use a No-Coat roller, to see how much faster and better that might be.


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## JustMe

Stuck the last pieces on and coated them today. Part of the leg of at least one piece on a column showed up as not holding well when I boxed it. I hope they're getting that glue on right.


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## 2buckcanuck

Some times we use the glue on the plastic bull nose bead,I use mud (with good glue) to do the fancy stuff like rounds,miters ,curves etc. anything that needs adjustment or proper placement.If there's no feet/pedestals to go on the bottom of the bead we will use the glue partly b/c it's supplied to us.
--To me I can get the bead on faster with a compound tube,applicator, and roller rather than waiting for the glue to tack,plus I get a fast half coat of mud on right away using a 6 inch knife.
Justme,maybe you should try doing your first coat by hand instead of boxes,that way when the bead floats/don't stick over the bevel ,you can force/tuck mud in behind it,instead of pulling out can of glue or staples.back in the days of metal bead,you never put a nail or screw where bevel was.....k.w.i.m 
did you try spraying the drywall with water too,just like you do with the glue,you spray the drywall and the bead with the glue,makes it tack better,maybe same may be true with the WATER bead:yes:


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> Justme,maybe you should try doing your first coat by hand instead of boxes,that way when the bead floats/don't stick over the bevel ,you can force/tuck mud in behind it,instead of pulling out can of glue or staples.


I could coat it by hand, but the hours allowed for such a job would go out the window. If I can't box it, especially when there's so much of it going on, then I'll choose paper faced metal.


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## 2buckcanuck

maybe just stuff some mud in behind the bad spot you were talking about,instead of glue.
I'm not one for running boxes on bead(some circumstances)but if your going to do it ,plastic bead is the one to do it on.do you know about the device you can attach to your boxes so you can run down /hug the bead faster.It's a kit you add on to your boxes.don't think it's that expensive


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## JustMe

Are you by chance talking Bead Boxers, 2buck? I did get a set once. I ended up making something that seems to work better, at least for me.

Once the wet mud is on, pretty hard to glue anything. None of the 'bad' spots that showed up are in any potentially bad areas, so I just left things to dry - I didn't notice the problem areas till later, so I didn't want to disturb drying mud too much. The 1st mud coat should take care of things okay enough, once it dries.

But I really don't care to have that as being an ongoing situation. Maybe on the next job it'll be different, using the right roller. Btw: We tried getting a roller yesterday through the bead's supplier. Supposedly, they're not in mass production yet. But I guess we're going to get the one used to demo the stuff.


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## 2buckcanuck

I think someone should be sharing the modifications that they did to their boxes to run on the beads....pics would be nice:yes:
Yes roller is the way to go,but try getting the one they recommend.for example the one I use on the bull nose bead will f*ck up on the paper bead.find those green can am rollers are a all purpose roller,work on alot of different beads,could start a whole new tread on bead rollers


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> I think someone should be sharing the modifications that they did to their boxes to run on the beads....pics would be nice:yes:
> Yes roller is the way to go,but try getting the one they recommend.for example the one I use on the bull nose bead will f*ck up on the paper bead.find those green can am rollers are a all purpose roller,work on alot of different beads,could start a whole new tread on bead rollers


Share? You ask for much. 

What modifications I do to boxes right now is really not much. The biggest modification I'd say I've done so far was not accepting 'you can't do that' comments, and learning how to do it, with or without modifying boxes.

However, I do have a few little things that I've been meaning to build for better box beading, based on what I've learned so far. I'm going to make some up and try them out. If they do seem to work, I'll see about putting them out there (maybe someone(s) like Brad from Wall might be interested in them)? If nothing else, if they do seem to work, and there is interest, I will share with those I've been posting with here (prototype testing, anyone?) :blink:

------

Got to thinking a little more about the AquaBead I was putting on. A couple things:

1. If there was some pieces with parts showing up as letting go after I boxed them, how many parts might be just sitting there, waiting to flex or let go with a decent bump against them? Can the mud through the holes be depended on enough to add enough strength for that?

2. I watched the 'applying water' video again: http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/hydrotrim/videos/Applying_Water/

At 1:50 into the video, he 'recommends the Hudson sprayer, because it puts on just the right amount of water'.
Then at 2:25 he says that we have to get the 'feel' for how much water should be used.
To my way of thinking (right now), if there is a right amount, then I'd like to know what it is, and know it in advance. And be given maybe a way of measuring - eg. 'for 8' of bead, you should get X amount of water runoff, if the bead is held on a 45 degree angle, with the inside of the corner serving as a trough'.

Anyone with any thoughts on this?


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## 2buckcanuck

your going to think I'm nuts,but this is where I would try some soap in the water.Thats a trick when taking wall paper off,slows the water from running as much,and makes it adhere to the paper better.I would still spray the drywall a bit where your sticking the bead.
-who says you half to do it the way they showed you too,maybe use a lambs wool roller.keep bead over a bucket of water,roll bead with it.seen guys do this with mud to install paper bead.
basically you should just half to get it wet,you should be able to dip it in a swimming pool and stick it on the wall.If there's some magic formula of water that needs to be applied.then the product may be more head aches than it's worth......


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## JustMe

You could be right about the headache thing. They also say that there shouldn't be things like drywall dust where you're going to put it on. I wonder how much of that is 'too much'. Should you clean off corners 1st with a broom or something?

One thing I didn't mention about the 'applying water' video is starting at 4:20 into the video, they show an example of its bonding ability, when combined with mud through the holes. To me, it seems like that piece came off a bit easy, if it was supposed to have been glued as well. I didn't see much drywall paper coming off with it. Their bonding example shown just before that did show tear in some spots, but not in others. But the paper that came off was being pulled back from its edge. Doing it that way can get drywall paper to tear easy enough. 

I don't have any real idea about your soap thought. Could it fall under their 'don't use contaminated water' directions? Would it cause the bead to maybe start letting go at some point? A 'time bomb' waiting to happen?

One of the owners was by the other day to the job where I've been putting it on, to see for himself about this bead. He said that the estimators are going ahead and quoting a # of jobs with it, and I don't think he's overly comfortable with that. He said that the introduction of something new like this has in the past been done slowly, till its proven itself more. From what I'm seeing so far, I think that's going to be my recommendation to him - go slowly with it, at least for now.


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## JustMe

So I rough sanded the 1st coat today. The 45 degree outside paper/metal bead that I had boxed as well looks almost ready to paint. The other bead isn't so ready.

I called up one of the owners, the one who had come out previously, to come and assess for himself. He's wondering how well the new bead around the interior window areas is going to hold when they start screwing on the window frames. He's going to monitor that.

Right now, the bead isn't going out to any more jobsites, at least till more is found out about it. He figured maybe it could still be of use in places like time sensitive jobs, like the 1st job it was used on. I told him there might be other alternatives for that, like maybe using the Vario 120 minute compound that's supposed to be coming out, to stick on paper/metal corner bead and be able to coat it out soon after(?) I'll ask Rebel about that on the Vario thread.


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## JustMe

I found the other day from an owner of my company that the HydroTrim - 'AquaBead' they're calling it up here in my part of Canada - used in a recent reno at the company's office, had started to come off in places. He said it seemed to come off especially in areas which had been coated soon after it was installed.

I don't know what 'soon after' quite means - if it was right away after the bead had been installed, or if it was a bit longer than that, like say 15-30 minutes.

Maybe it was an install problem - eg. it was put on by hand instead of using a roller specially configured for this bead, and the legs of the bead might not have been put on quite flush with the board in places, so the mud's moisture got in behind and caused whatever water activated glue that was bonding to the drywall, to let go. 

Long and short of it is that we're not going to be using any more of this product, at least for now.


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## A1rocker

I couldnt pull up the applying water video but heres what we do,take a sheapshead (corner roller) dip it in a bucket of water and roll down the inside of the bead ,one guy cuts while one guy wets and applies.I personaly dont care for it but when the GC supplies i have no choice.I do think we save time with it but i have to use all purpose even to fill it the first time,all our bead is hand done so the mud type doesnt matter too much.


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## JustMe

A1rocker said:


> I couldnt pull up the applying water video but heres what we do,take a sheapshead (corner roller) dip it in a bucket of water and roll down the inside of the bead ,one guy cuts while one guy wets and applies.I personaly dont care for it but when the GC supplies i have no choice.I do think we save time with it but i have to use all purpose even to fill it the first time,all our bead is hand done so the mud type doesnt matter too much.


A sheepshead could be okay enough. In one of their videos they do say not to use a sponge, as that can wipe off some of the glue.

Right now I'm not a big fan of it either, even from the aspect of it being a real time saver, when I factor in such things as it seeming to be more difficult to coat than paper/metal bead that's been put on decently.

I haven't heard yet about any of the HydroTrim/AquaBead coming off that my company had asked me to try. But if I was to use it again, I think I'd skim into the holes some of Rebel's Vario compound, to give it even better bonding than all-purpose would give, as well as give the holes an initial fill. It's one thought I have for testing some of his new 120 minute Vario on.


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## VANMAN

I want 2 try some of this VARIO!!!!! PLEASE.


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## ShipWreck

*the differance you will see between Auqabead and Hydrotrin is the profile of the bead*



JustMe said:


> Tim,
> 
> The Certainteed rep demo'd their AquaBead yesterday, and I'll be trying some on my next job.
> 
> Btw: AquaBead is made by the same outfit that makes HydroTrim (Structus). See bottom of 1st page of link below:
> 
> http://www.certainteed.com/resources/CTG-4019_PR_AquaBead_SS_Eng.pdf
> 
> I'm going to try and get some Hydro as well to use, though, to see if there is any difference between the 2, and if so, if it seems significant.


The differance you will see between Aquabead and Hydrotrim is the profile of the bead. Aqua tries to mimik the corner bead of metal.


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## ShipWreck

JustMe said:


> Reads to me like that's the makeup of AquaBead, 2buck.
> 
> The link says they have L-trim - which I could use on this next job. Yet the Certainteed rep said they didn't have such yet.
> 
> And he didn't know about the 3 hole rows and 4 hole rows difference thing. So will have to do more homework on it.
> 
> It is supposed to be coming out with more configurations, such as what we sometimes call 'fast mask' around here, for finishing things like along the tops of walls where T-bar ceilings are going in.


 

3 holes in production product and 4 holes was some of the test product


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## ShipWreck

JustMe said:


> Stuck the last pieces on and coated them today. Part of the leg of at least one piece on a column showed up as not holding well when I boxed it. I hope they're getting that glue on right.


 
You may see that the rollers don't alwasy make good contact in places where corners are hung all walls that are less than 90 degrees. Structusis working on a fix


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## ShipWreck

*Bull*



2buckcanuck said:


> good post just me,I'm not keen on plastic bead,But when it comes to bull nose ,I prefer it over the paper,better to miter,adjust and no burrs that you get on the round like you do with paper.
> where I suck is with the glue.I seem to get it every where.No matter how careful I am ,I always half to clean of some glue where it should not be at the end of the job.And I only use the glue on the straight up and down beads,so I really suck at the glue.
> So yes this hydro trim does interest me,and you said your hands did not get sticky.......bonus
> It does come in bull nose right? (too lazy to google)


 
Bullnose is not sold everywhere but here in Oregon they have been selling it through Grabber.


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## blester

Are you still using the Aquabead? If so, how's it going? If not, what was your decision based on?

Thanks!


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## JustMe

blester said:


> Are you still using the Aquabead? If so, how's it going? If not, what was your decision based on?
> 
> Thanks!


No, the company's not using it right now. The stuff seems a bit iffy to use. You might think you've got it on right, but when you 1st coat it, the odd spot still seems to want to let loose. At least that's what was going on with some of the tapers who tried it. I had a couple spots like that as well, even after I thought I had its application down well enough. Who knows if some other areas might not let go later. If I was using it, I'd make sure I was using mud with glues in it for at least the 1st coat when filling in the AquaBead holes, to bond to the wall better.

But we got a roller given to us AFter we quit using it. Maybe it would work better with using that.

I'd still prefer using paper covered metal. I can install it so the covering coats needed for it are easier to do than coating AquaBead - I do commercial, and we coat things like that with 2 coats only. I also don't have to wonder so much if it's going to let go at some point.

But I can set my bead consistently tight, and with little paper bubbling problems, so it coats and sands out easy. Things like that might be something to also consider when looking at which bead to use.


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## irwininteriors895

JustMe said:


> From the makers of No-Coat, has anyone tried Hydrotrim out yet?
> 
> http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/hydrotrim/
> 
> Up here in Canada, it might possibly be distributed by Certainteed under the name Aquabead.


 yes, i just finished a smooth wall house using aqua bead by certainteed.
i really liked it, fast to install. just be sure the drywall is close to face framed for impacts that might happen. coats out nice. wacked one corner hard with sanding pole handle, no dange at all. the only problem i see is if framming is not good,the bead is a little flimmzy and is hard to straighten. other than that it goes on fast and is a strong bond. when you are doing long run it helps to put an little 4 inch piece under the two pieces that meet.(20 foot run for example)


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## JustMe

irwininteriors895 said:


> yes, i just finished a smooth wall house using aqua bead by certainteed.
> i really liked it, fast to install. just be sure the drywall is close to face framed for impacts that might happen. coats out nice. wacked one corner hard with sanding pole handle, no dange at all. the only problem i see is if framming is not good,the bead is a little flimmzy and is hard to straighten. other than that it goes on fast and is a strong bond. when you are doing long run it helps to put an little 4 inch piece under the two pieces that meet.(20 foot run for example)


Thanks for that, irwin. As I'd said to blester, I factored in other things as well as installation time when deciding to tell the company that they might want to shelve the idea of using AquaBead, at least for now.

Some of those factors included comparing the ease of coating, amount of sanding, and amount of checkout needed, against paper/metal bead. Also, counting on every taper to install the Aqua right enough all the time - the company would be pushing their luck.

I had to do some wall patching at some new commercial construction awhile ago. Another company had done the taping there and used AquaBead. When I happened to shine a light along some walls, you could see the bead's holes and edges showing through in a # of places. So as far as commercial and our usual 2 coating system, others were having coating issues as well when it came to AquaBead.

I picked up a new Columbia applicator tube a bit ago - nice operating tube - along with one of their new outside mud applicators. Along with using a roller, I can install a nicely fitted/'tight' 10' paper/metal bead in under a minute, once I have mud in the tube.


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## 2buckcanuck

JustMe said:


> I picked up a new Columbia applicator tube a bit ago - nice operating tube - along with one of their new outside mud applicators. Along with using a roller, I can install a nicely fitted/'tight' 10' paper/metal bead in under a minute, once I have mud in the tube.


Best way to install bead IMO, you made a sound investment justme:thumbsup:


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## carpentaper

i just bought a roller too. can am one. i'll be using it this weekend


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## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> i just bought a roller too. can am one. i'll be using it this weekend


:thumbsup: Thumbs up to you too then CT, Since I know your being self taught, keep your body square to the bead, and keep your arms elevated when doing horizontals so they don't go off set. And, the roller sets your bead for you. I see some guys roll then wipe the bead down Again.you don't half to do that. just scrape off the excess mud, or coat it right away.
your choice, your system:yes:


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## irwininteriors895

*Aquabead*



blester said:


> Are you still using the Aquabead? If so, how's it going? If not, what was your decision based on?
> 
> Thanks!


 I am not using Aquabead right now, my crew prefers tape-on beads.
I will use Aquabead again, it worked well for me. Just have to spend sometime learning the best way to apply. But for tapers that do not have alot of experience in drywall could have problems on install. Everyone complains about the holes on bead showing through, if installed right and use all-purose lite mud on first coat ,worked well for me. I would like to try the Aquabead bullnose.:thumbsup: I think composite beads are going to be seen more and more in future. Anyways i like all corner trims, they all have a time and place to use in different applications.


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## blester

*Right too, right methods, right outcome*

The company that make Hydrotrim makes a good roller for it as well. Their roller is 'custom' made to fit the profile. It works well when board and framing is okay, otherwise you may need to tweak the trim a bit.
As for water, a light mist across the entire face of the flange works best, and adding a drop of food coloring helps to be able to show where you've sprayed the water so you don't miss any spots.
If you have a corner you need to work with a bit, then put on more water which gives the trim more open time before the glue sets.
Good luck!


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> Best way to install bead IMO, you made a sound investment justme:thumbsup:


Thanks, 2buck. The Columbia tube is the nicest I've used so far when it comes to ease of use.


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## carpentaper

2buckcanuck said:


> :thumbsup: Thumbs up to you too then CT, Since I know your being self taught, keep your body square to the bead, and keep your arms elevated when doing horizontals so they don't go off set. And, the roller sets your bead for you. I see some guys roll then wipe the bead down Again.you don't half to do that. just scrape off the excess mud, or coat it right away.
> your choice, your system:yes:


i'm not really self taught. you guys have all taught me tons. i just don't have anyone yelling at me when i'm working.


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## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> i'm not really self taught. you guys have all taught me tons. i just don't have anyone yelling at me when i'm working.


No one yelling at you
from now on , all our responses shall be done, IN ALL CAPITAL LETTERS


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