# FibaFuse creasing on exterior wall butts after final skim coat



## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Ok I'm going to totally lose my mind if i don't figure out why this is happening. After skimming out my butts nearly all of the ones on exterior walls had the tapes crease about 10 minutes after being skimmed, just a hair line crease right over the joint, its happened a couple times before but never to this extent.
I'm using fibafuse and coating once down the middle with a 7" then splitting with a 10" and its not until I do a tight skim by hand that the crease decides to show up. On friday I got to skimming a few butts and they creased so on saturday I PC sanded a couple down re-taped them and got a coat on by hand once they were dry, skim them today and same result. I've got lots of heat and I am running a dehumidifier so drying isn't a problem and like I said its only happening on exterior walls and ceilings, interior walls and 1st floor ceilings are perfect.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

LOOSE paper on the factory butt.. It's like taping a blister.??????


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Did you "V" cut out and backfill the butt before taping, If not, Thats one possible reason.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

What's the outside temp? What's the inside temp?


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

moore said:


> LOOSE paper on the factory butt.. It's like taping a blister.??????


Yeah like a hairline blister
I was leaning towards that idea but didn't want it to be true
Now that I think of it the house was stocked with about half and half ultralight and std board as the suppliers are in the middle of switching to all ultralight 1/2" here and I have noticed the paper on the ultralight seems different.
Please tell me I don't have to go back and V all these butts, pre fill them and do them all over again. Do you think a good thick coat will fix them? I had planned on sanding tomorrow until this happened:furious:


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

moore said:


> What's the outside temp? What's the inside temp?


when I ran the tapes about 5ºC (40ºF) today it was about 20ºC (70ºF) and I like to keep it about 20-23ºC inside.

And I've never had to V butts before, sucks if I have to start now


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

saskataper said:


> when I ran the tapes about 5ºC (40ºF) today it was about 20ºC (70ºF) and I like to keep it about 20-23ºC inside.
> 
> And I've never had to V butts before, sucks if I have to start now


You could use a heavy coat of set mud, it will lock a blister down, but you'd probably be better off to v-cut them.

Here's a ghetto solution that we used to use when butts blistered on sand/texture day: Take the hammer end of your six and reef on the blister all the way down the length. Then prime it with a SEALER. You can then coat it with set mud, and tight skim with regular mud. Works pretty well, although if you're going smooth probably won't fly. However, if your texture is even moderately heavy, you can probably get by with just the set-mud coat.

Hope this helps....


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

please...tell what brand of board! not that it has anything to do with your issue ...I need to know...:blink:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

try using a" shellac paint "spray can. Spray the center of butt 2 or 3 inches from end to end,let dry. Use a quickset to coat blister once shellac or good sealer prime has dried ( Linesaver even works) lite sand or scrape, coat with a tpcoat. Its worth a shot, it works most times unless something is just totally wrong


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> You could use a heavy coat of set mud, it will lock a blister down, but you'd probably be better off to v-cut them.
> 
> Here's a ghetto solution that we used to use when butts blistered on sand/texture day: Take the hammer end of your six and reef on the blister all the way down the length. Then prime it with a SEALER. You can then coat it with set mud, and tight skim with regular mud. Works pretty well, although if you're going smooth probably won't fly. However, if your texture is even moderately heavy, you can probably get by with just the set-mud coat.
> 
> Hope this helps....


 push the blister in..I am guilty of that ghetto move...:yes:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Very rarely will I get blisters like that in my butt joints, but from time to time if we do get a bad one I just do like Slim said, push it in with the back end of my knife, follow the whole seam, then coat it with a setting compound, then skim it.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

chris said:


> try using a" shellac paint "spray can. Spray the center of butt 2 or 3 inches from end to end,let dry. Use a quickset to coat blister once shellac or good sealer prime has dried ( Linesaver even works) lite sand or scrape, coat with a tpcoat. Its worth a shot, it works most times unless something is just totally wrong


Yeah, we just had a can of Kils, but shellac would be good too. Anything to keep moisture out and make it hard:thumbsup:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> Yeah, we just had a can of Kils, but shellac would be good too. Anything to keep moisture out and make it hard:thumbsup:


 After I posted I noticed you beat me to it:yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Very rarely will I get blisters like that in my butt joints, but from time to time if we do get a bad one I just do like Slim said, push it in with the back end of my knife, follow the whole seam, then coat it with a setting compound, then skim it.


Then it cracks back...**** it ..we got paid!


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> Then it cracks back...**** it ..we got paid!


Haha! Like I said, I've rarely had that happen to me.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I like the idea of seali g it up with kills thing is its all painted ceilings and long lit walls so they have to be perfect. Contractor is is a really good guy and would be fine with a couple days if it's the right way to fix it.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I had that happen to me with Fibafuse once, it was on horizontal tapered joins, it wasn't the whole join but just 3ft sections in several rooms, and there appeared to be no reason for it, the only thing I could think of was that maybe something had been spilt on it while stacked and it has reacted with the mud.....dunno, all I know is I hadn't done anything different than before and it has never done it again.
I scraped the affected areas back with a tungsten scraper and re-taped it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Haha! Like I said, I've rarely had that happen to me.


 Give it time...


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> Give it time...


Oh yay....can't wait..


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I've been kinda busy lately, sorry for not keeping up with all the topics.. I have only used fibafuse once. on patch work. so I can;t say if it is the tape' I am thinking it couyld be the sheetrock. anyway I am tired. Take Care everyone. and don't let the mud goobers bite ya in your sleep.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

saskataper said:


> I like the idea of seali g it up with kills thing is its all painted ceilings and long lit walls so they have to be perfect. Contractor is is a really good guy and would be fine with a couple days if it's the right way to fix it.


I'd cut them out then. I like to run a block plane down the butt so I can get to the source, and thus create a big groove where I can set tape and fill without creating even more of a hump.:yes: You can do it with a belt sander, but gawd.....what a mess!


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

The only good thing is that its the first half of a duplex I'm working on so I can start the other side while i fix these joints up and wait for them to dry, plus I can have a look at the board on the other side and see if there is anything wrong.
Sucks though I was going to give you guys a video tour to show it off as it was looking pretty nice till this happened


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i have a 40 grit belt from a belt sander that i cut in half and have been using it on my sanding pole for a couple of years for that kind of stuff. it comes in really handy. never really wears down.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

saskataper said:


> The only good thing is that its the first half of a duplex I'm working on so I can start the other side while i fix these joints up and wait for them to dry, plus I can have a look at the board on the other side and see if there is anything wrong.
> Sucks though I was going to give you guys a video tour to show it off as it was looking pretty nice till this happened


if your going to fix them, just rip the tapes off.

You have already built the butts out. So by tearing the tapes off the butt you will ......

Know what your problem truly is, so it will never happen again.

If it is the loose paper on a factory end, bevell it out, pre-fill it, then apply tape again. Your tape will be recessed in, meaning you can/should be able to finish them off with a six inch knife, since your butts were built out.

if it concerns you, just skim out the whole butt joint on final coat, if what I'm saying scares you. But really, your tape will be counter sunk in,,,, so think about it:yes:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> if your going to fix them, just rip the tapes off.


You can't rip fibafuse off like paper, you can only scrape it back.
Have you ever had a chance to try fuse yet? Apparently it has really taken off here with the earthquake repairs, it's hugely expensive but still worth it.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> You can't rip fibafuse off like paper, you can only scrape it back.
> Have you ever had a chance to try fuse yet? Apparently it has really taken off here with the earthquake repairs, it's hugely expensive but still worth it.


Ya, I've never tried it...maybe I should.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Ya, I've never tried it...maybe I should.


Yeah give it a shot once you start running your taper again. I love the stuff I pay about $7 for a 500ft roll. The only place I use paper tape is if I have to hand tape an angle.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> You can't rip fibafuse off like paper, you can only scrape it back.
> Have you ever had a chance to try fuse yet? Apparently it has really taken off here with the earthquake repairs, it's hugely expensive but still worth it.


That's what I was thinking, you just can't pull it off.

For your excellent reply, I'm going to reward your Kiwi depravity with this picture I saw on the internet a little while ago:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> That's what I was thinking, you just can't pull it off.
> 
> For your excellent reply, I'm going to reward your Kiwi depravity with this picture I saw on the internet a little while ago:


Oooooh nice .......How ewe doin


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

saskataper said:


> Yeah give it a shot once you start running your taper again. I love the stuff I pay about $7 for a 500ft roll. The only place I use paper tape is if I have to hand tape an angle.


Hate to tell you this but you are actually paying $7 for a 250ft roll, they are the same diameter as a 500ft roll of paper but they aren't as tightly wound so there's only half as much on it.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Fibafuse is the best for patches. I will try my hardest to never use paper again for any patch work. I did a 8'x2' patch the other day with fibafuse and 5 minute hotmud and was able to hang, tape/bed, and skim it within an hour IMO it is great stuff :thumbup:


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> Hate to tell you this but you are actually paying $7 for a 250ft roll, they are the same diameter as a 500ft roll of paper but they aren't as tightly wound so there's only half as much on it.


Nope they are 500 footers, great big rolls. I get them in boxes of 10.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

saskataper said:


> Nope they are 500 footers, great big rolls. I get them in boxes of 10.


My humble apologies (while tipping my hat), I didn't realize that, they must be huge.... they would look funny on Moore's belt holder


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> My humble apologies (while tipping my hat), I didn't realize that, they must be huge.... they would look funny on Moore's belt holder


 I'd have to put one on each side just to level out..


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Yeah probably 14" across still fit on my taper though but just barely. 
Thanks for all the tips I sanded out the worst one v'd the joint and re-taped it. The rest I got flat and hit them with kills worked like a charm. I'm uploading a video tour tonight.


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## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

ya i just got about 20, 000 board feet for a house from ken roc and i noticed it is half light weight sheets. i no it is much easier hanging 14' cd (2 of us) with light weight board. sasktaper, who r u subbing off of?? i worked for alot of differ guys over the years.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I just work on my own, a couple years ago I learned from a Rob Antoshkiw who used to work for Unique. I did some sub work for Travis Mallet (T-Mals drywall) year ago and the little  didn't pay me for the last job


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## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

Ya that sucks. I never worked for them but I worked for quantum, loves, prairie. Now I don't deal with the hassle. I like dealing right with the home owner.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

saskataper said:


> Yeah like a hairline blister
> I was leaning towards that idea but didn't want it to be true
> Now that I think of it the house was stocked with about half and half ultralight and std board as the suppliers are in the middle of switching to all ultralight 1/2" here and I have noticed the paper on the ultralight seems different.
> Please tell me I don't have to go back and V all these butts, pre fill them and do them all over again. Do you think a good thick coat will fix them? I had planned on sanding tomorrow until this happened:furious:


if it was me I would use knife handle and push the length of butt and shoot it with some 20 set,

forget running 7 in the middle first


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> if it was me I would use knife handle and push the length of butt and shoot it with some 20 set,
> 
> forget running 7 in the middle first


 And watch it crack again???? Hell !! just sand it down with 120 and paint it!:whistling2:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

*.*



moore said:


> And watch it crack again???? Hell !! just sand it down with 120 and paint it!:whistling2:


Moore 20 set will not pop and ya cain't sand it with 120 so I gotcha and 2bjr with one sheet of sand paper


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