# Goldblatt G2 Corner Finishers



## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

Has anyone used the new red anodized Goldblatt G2 corner finishers? i'm looking for first hand experience.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Never heard of em. Can't help ya there.


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

given the way their flat boxes run, I sure wouldn't be eager to try their corner finishers. There's lots of good used columbia's, tapetechs, DMs, Northstars, etc on ebay.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I have the finishpro goldblatt 2inch and 3.5 inch or maybe they class that as a 4inch?? its about 13mm bigger than my DM 3.5 bone head speed wheel, they are not red inodized but the model before, but they look close the same?

The 2 inch actually runs well but is a bit small and the 3.8inch not so well, but i did start out knowing nothing trying to run these, i couldnt run them with the angle box, prob my inexperance.

I got a DM 2.5 and 3.5 and comparing the two is very different, finishpros seem small and thin and the DMs are thick and chunky and sit well on the wall, i really like the feel and using these heads.
But to be honest i could prob make the finishpros run well now on the mud runner.

If you get some cheap G2s maybe they are worth it, But knowing what i know now spend more get the best, dont double spend on cheapest first.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

what problem where you having with the goldblatt? where they leaving a big ridge that needed to be sanded out? where they not leaving a very nice feathered edge?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

They were very scratchy for a start, i rubbed the blades a little with some wet and dry sandpaper which helped a lot, the 2inch is a nice little head now and runs well but a bit small, a 2.5 or 3 might be fine, And the bigger 3.8 head is not very high, as in if you sit it down next to another head is lower so when it goes in the corner it feels like the skids, side blades, are to short so it almost wants to tip forward and rock off the blades, But i put the DM bone head in there and it just fits nice, feels nice, flows nice and does a great job,
Its like comparing a tank with a car, the new G2s might be fine. and as i said i begain and screwed up a lot on the goldblatts so when i picked up the DMs i had more of an idea how to run them.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Sorry to hijack this thread, but do you guy's have problems with the side blades/skids gouging a groove in the flats? or do you topcoat the angles first and then fix the groove when you finish the flats. I'm wondering if it's how the blades are adjusted or if it's to do with how thin the mud is and therefore how much pressure you use. (Northstar heads and box by the way)


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Havent got any grooves, if one does start its usually becouse some gib paper or lumps are stuck behind the blades, i carry a putty knife on me and keep picking it out, Paper builds up on the topblade were it over hangs the skid often and if you dont keep cleaning it out it will turn to tears.

If you have a permanent groove then it sounds like a chipped blade?


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Havent got any grooves, if one does start its usually becouse some gib paper or lumps are stuck behind the blades, i carry a putty knife on me and keep picking it out, Paper builds up on the topblade were it over hangs the skid often and if you dont keep cleaning it out it will turn to tears.
> 
> If you have a permanent groove then it sounds like a chipped blade?


 There's nothing wrong with the blade caz, it's just that the skids dig in to the flats that are already dry, or if I try the 3.5 then top with the 2.5 I get the same thing right down the angle, it must be to do with too much pressure on the box, just curious if anyone else has the same issue.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Oh I got it now, sorry man i read your post wrong and i was in a rush to get out the door.

And yes my last job i did scratch out the flats with the skids so i am going to finish the corners then box the last coat on the flats on my next one.

Some other opinions would be nice, lots of people look at these posts but not many have much to say??


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Oh I got it now, sorry man i read your post wrong and i was in a rush to get out the door.
> 
> And yes my last job i did scratch out the flats with the skids so i am going to finish the corners then box the last coat on the flats on my next one.
> 
> Some other opinions would be nice, lots of people look at these posts but not many have much to say??


I haven't had a problem of gougeing with dry flats. What kind of mud are you using? I can see it happening if your using light-weight mud. Maybe its cause I use a mudrunner and don't have to push hard to get the mud out, as is needed with a corner box??

Just guessing tho


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I used a mudrunner Capt with USG total and a new DM bone head and it scratched out the flats, and yes they were well dry?? But come to think of it, it was only the ceiling flats not the walls??


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> I used a mudrunner Capt with USG total and a new DM bone head and it scratched out the flats, and yes they were well dry?? But come to think of it, it was only the ceiling flats not the walls??


Not familar with USG Total. One thing you might want to try, if your interested. Get some pro-form Black lid (hardest mud out there) and try it. That will let you know if its the mud or if its your tool. Just a thought (but then again, I am approching that senial phase)

A bonehead is a well built anglehead, so it is problly not a problem with it. I do know that they have thicker blades than the rest, and have heard (rumor) that the blades are not carbide like the rest, again, thats just what I have heard,, don't know first hand tho. However, the problem you are haveing is coming from the shoes/skids and not the blades. Have you given a thought to "rounding the end of the skids, in an attempt to avert this problem? It would in no way effect their function (dull them where they bite into the flat).

Keep us posted, I am interested in the final result/cause


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I am quite sure its the top blade were it overhangs the skid, its slightly raised at this point so its scratching the flats, it catches up the board paper as well, i tryed to file it a little but it just laughed at my file, dam hard blades. They do a great job of feathering off the edge though.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> I am quite sure its the top blade were it overhangs the skid, its slightly raised at this point so its scratching the flats


Come to think of it, thats exactly where it's scraping the flats, if it were just the shoe/skids scraping then it would be just a thin line left behind.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mmm Hmm lets break out the grinders and show them some kiwi fury, you first :blink: i just cant bring myself to do it, we shouldnt need to, how old is your northstar, my DMs are new so im hoping they will wear in.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Mmm Hmm lets break out the grinders and show them some kiwi fury, you first :blink: i just cant bring myself to do it, we shouldnt need to, how old is your northstar, my DMs are new so im hoping they will wear in.


 The northstars are still like new, maybe the springs need wearing in? if there were less tension on them then maybe wouldn't have to push as hard.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> I am quite sure its the top blade were it overhangs the skid, its slightly raised at this point so its scratching the flats, it catches up the board paper as well, i tryed to file it a little but it just laughed at my file, dam hard blades. They do a great job of feathering off the edge though.


They must be a little over the skids. If they are not, you will leave a hard edge. In other words, when you run your fingernail up the skid, it should snag on the blade. If you can't file it, then its a carbide blade, like the other brands, that is why the blades are so exspensive. Again, I'd like to recommend trying pro-form black lid to see if the mud is the culprit or if the tool is the culprit. I haven't ever had a problem with the blade roughing up a flat, so I can't speak from experiance here. You mentioned that you tried to file the blade??? Don't do it man, other than taking the burr off the 90 degree junction to avoid tape snags on wet tape, DON"T mess with the blades !!!!!!!!!!!!! Skids are a differant thing, they just keep the mud inside the tool, they don't define a good corner.

Ya know, its hard to understand or suggest over the net, like a picture is worth a thousand words. I have never heard of a anglehead roughing up the paper of the rock, so I guess i don't understand what your trying to say here. Maybe your pushing too hard, with a mudrunner, you should not have to push hard enough to mess with the paper of the rock, unless your mud is too thick and your trying to HELP it out of the mudrunner.

Anyway, good luck, stay after it, keep an open mind and you WILL get it figured out,,, it ain't rocket surgery


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

*Blades*

See in this pic, i put a light behind the head, you can clearly see the end the end of the blade is a high spot, hence the scratching of the flats. they have a great little bend in the top blade, they do a great job im not complaining.
See if you can take a pic and post it like this of your northstar kiwiman so we can compare, i have a light on my shoe phone i used and its on a table and i took it on the edge of it.

And im pointing to the small area i lightly tryed to file, it did nothing, im not stupied enough to file the whole thing.

I did remove the top spring to release some tension, this worked well.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

WOW ! That blade should not have a crown like that. It should be straight .

Try loosening the set screws, then back the set screw behind the blade out a turn or 2, and see if you can push the outside corner of the blade down flat , then tighten the screws back down. You may have to adjust the skid also.

The way that tool is set up, you can probably feel a hump in the angle when dry.:no:

That head looks like it has only 1 spring. A 3" or 3.5" should have 2 springs.:thumbsup:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Aren't Goldblat tools made by Columbia?

Does anyone know?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Muddauber said:


> Aren't Goldblat tools made by Columbia?
> 
> Does anyone know?


Oh GAWD, i hope not,,,if they are ,,, shame on them


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

no they aren't.

they were owned by Stanley for awhile, now they are back as their own brand i believe. Made in Kansas or China depending on the item.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Crikey Caz, somethings wrong with your blade...take the blade out and see what the other side looks like, they should be reversable. On the northstars there are grub screws to adjust blade height as well as grub screws in the sides to hold the blade, you havent got one of the height adjusters screwed up have you?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> WOW ! That blade should not have a crown like that. It should be straight .
> 
> Try loosening the set screws, then back the set screw behind the blade out a turn or 2, and see if you can push the outside corner of the blade down flat , then tighten the screws back down. You may have to adjust the skid also.
> 
> ...


 
Well both the blades are like that, and DM themselves have seen these pics and say thats how they set there blades, with a crown in them??

And they have side springs as well, i took off that top spring so i didnt have to push it so hard into the corner.

They do have grub screws for adjustment and i have the tool doctor tips book for resetting them, but they are new, i got a 3.5 and 2.5 they are both the same set like this, DM says its right, so are you telling me its wrong?? What am i supposed to now then??


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

What was I thinking:blink: The front blades are'nt reversable...The side blades are. I remember the first time I tried to dull the tip of the blades, they were so hard I couldn't file them so I took a blade out and touched it on the bench grinder...."Pink" ..... That was the sound of $100 for a new blade. Now I use emery cloth glued to a board and I leave the blades in place.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

cazna said:


> Well both the blades are like that, and DM themselves have seen these pics and say thats how they set there blades, with a crown in them??
> 
> And they have side springs as well, i took off that top spring so i didnt have to push it so hard into the corner.
> 
> They do have grub screws for adjustment and i have the tool doctor tips book for resetting them, but they are new, i got a 3.5 and 2.5 they are both the same set like this, DM says its right, so are you telling me its wrong?? What am i supposed to now then??



I just checked my 2.5" DM this morning. The blades are perfectly flat.:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Heres my 2.5, so wtf then. The last pic is the 3.5. Are they not as they should be??


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

i just ordered a Northstar 3.5, i'll let you know how the blades sit on that when i get it in a week or two.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> Heres my 2.5, so wtf then. The last pic is the 3.5. Are they not as they should be??



That middle pic looks like you might have some problems with leaving a ridge.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

cazna

I may have missed it, but what is your process? which head do you glaze with? do you use a mudrunner or a box? when you glaze behind roller, do you use a mudrunner or a pole?

reason I ask, is if you run the 2 on top of the 3, with the way they are crowned, it will dig bad and cause the issues you are having...both heads are crowned, but they aren't crowned the same...I suggest taking the center screw(set screw on top) and the outside one...next to skid and let the blade free up..you should have little to no crown in the blades

if you use your 3.5 for final coat, you need the 2nd spring on it also

I never got the hang of the mudrunner so I still use the whoopass box..I glaze with 2.5 and pump out with 3.5...just because I can't glaze full with 3.5 behind the tube...been doing it this way for 15+ years and it is easier for me...I know a lot of people that run tapetech 3 behind the tube and pump out with a 2...and it works but you have to use same mud for both coats...imo


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hi Bill

I have been using sheetrock taping compound for taping and wiping off with the 2.5 on a pole, this coat shrinks back and goes hard and is a great mud for mr bazooka.

Then going over it all again with the 2.5 on the mudrunner, ( I know its an extra coat but does not take long and gives a sweet as base for the next coat) and helps fill the taper.

Then going over it all with the 3.5 on the mudrunner, which will scratch the flats so thinking of doing the flats last now.

I suck on the angle box and suck trying to use a 3.5 after the bazooka as well, this seems to work for me but after todays discovery my system at the end could be changing. Maybe?


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

cazna said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> I have been using sheetrock taping compound for taping and wiping off with the 2.5 on a pole, this coat shrinks back and goes hard and is a great mud for mr bazooka.
> 
> ...


holy crap man, talk about making extra work for yourself.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

McDusty said:


> i just ordered a Northstar 3.5, i'll let you know how the blades sit on that when i get it in a week or two.


Ok cheers McDusty, I was going for DM or northstar, Chose the bone heads for the speed wheels, After my suck attempt with the finishpro i thought the wheels would help, Would be interested to know how they are.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

McDusty said:


> holy crap man, talk about making extra work for yourself.


Mud runners are dam fast dude, only a coulpe of extra hrs for a mint job.:thumbsup:


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## TheToolDr (Nov 27, 2009)

cazna said:


> See in this pic, i put a light behind the head, you can clearly see the end the end of the blade is a high spot, hence the scratching of the flats. they have a great little bend in the top blade, they do a great job im not complaining.
> See if you can take a pic and post it like this of your northstar kiwiman so we can compare, i have a light on my shoe phone i used and its on a table and i took it on the edge of it.
> 
> And im pointing to the small area i lightly tryed to file, it did nothing, im not stupied enough to file the whole thing.
> ...


Whoa! Hold the phone! ALL factories (I have trained with Tapemaster, Drywall Master, Tapetech, Tapeworm, Concorde, Northstar and Blue Line) set angle heads originally with .002" arc at center of blade. Without this arc, angle head is not leaving any mud over tape and will quite possibly begin scraping tape when attempt to finish corners. 
Most critical perspective on angle heads is the clip/blade/skid alignments. Set angle head on a flat surface. It should not "rock" noticeably. Think of it like a 4-legged chair sitting solid on the floor- if it rocks more than 1/64", a skid can be out of adjustment and cause the issue you describe. Setting the blades properly is a bit tricky, while the side skids are a much easier adjustment. Send a note if you have further questions. Instruction books are also available- if you need, send private email.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks man, i think i have your tips from the tool doctor master manual for traditional tools if this is you??

I did drop the skids on the 3.5 to .002 auto feeler gauge as your book described, they were a lot higher than this and it seems to have helped, im thinking of doing it to the 2.5 as well.

My way of thinking was that curve in the blades needs to be there too or it will just scrape the mud out and not leave any behind but there seems to be some confusion.

My only problem was they are scratching on the outside edge a little, i have been in contact with DM and they are a great team of guys, once i dropped the skids down to .002 they seem to run well, they leave a nice build up, feather off well and make a great corner, on the mud runner they glide along sweet as. They are a very well built head, i have the DM 5.5 flatbox as well and what a little honey that is, runs smooth and sweet, great for No Coat or a bigger nail/scratch spotter.
I think there king taper looks awsome too.

So Mr tool doc im guessing your saying leave the top blades as they are with that curve in it then???


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

not to start anything, but in those pics, it sure looks more than .002 to me,,,but i could be wrong....i wasn't trying to say a crown is bad..it can be a benefit, but they both have to be crowned same way to be effective

ive never had the boneheads, but know guys that i work with or have worked with that do have them and they think highly of them..i'm just partial to concorde/northstar..I got a columbia too but had to do some tweaking on it to get it to run right


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## TheToolDr (Nov 27, 2009)

cazna said:


> Thanks man, i think i have your tips from the tool doctor master manual for traditional tools if this is you??
> 
> I did drop the skids on the 3.5 to .002 auto feeler gauge as your book described, they were a lot higher than this and it seems to have helped, im thinking of doing it to the 2.5 as well.
> 
> ...


Yes- When I see the arc in the blade, it's usually the last thing I modify after trying other options first. It's a bit tricky to set. I think you're on the right track with adjustments you described.
Yes, those are my books.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Great books too, everyone who has auto tools should have a copy :thumbsup:

Thanks for posting your comments, its help a lot, was starting to feel a bit confused.


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