# Drywall Master



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

figured I'd give DM a plug here.

Over the past months I've bought some more tools from DM.

First up...DM mini taper ( yes, I know...why a mini? ) well, I already have two regulars and wanted to give this one a go...and I have to say, it's a joy to use. Smoothest new gun ( haven't tried Columbia yet ) I have run to date. Nice for scaffold work and also, although I can walk the top corners ceiling to wall in tight closets with a full size, this is just easier. Nice job DM:thumbsup:

Next up...5.5" specialty box. I was apprehensive about this purchase as I would only be using it mainly for splayed angles, something which I was already using a double 7" PA box for. This is a cool, well built, easy running little box and works beautifully for it's intended purpose.

(12" Super-Finish Flat Box Handle)

Nice handle but takes a little getting used to with PA boxes. I don't like the adjustable ball...I found it uncomfortable. I just removed it and wrapped the handle with electrical tape mounding it at the position that was comfortable.

So far DM tools have proven to be quality products and Customer service has been very good when help has been needed. 

My only real complaint, was with the 2.5" and 3" angle heads that I bought last year. Excellent heads but neither had the blades set properly... it was an easy fix though.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Just purchased the 3.5 myself, awesome head!
Also own the king taper, and the 12 inch handle, both very nice tools although I don't use either one slot.

Built my own adjustable short handle, and rebuilt an old concorde mini taper that runs sweeeeet 

Will agree that DM makes great tools, 5.5 is next on the list.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

The 5.5 makes a sweet nail spotter


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

mld said:


> Just purchased the 3.5 myself, awesome head!
> Also own the king taper, and the 12 inch handle, both very nice tools although I don't use either one slot.
> 
> Built my own adjustable short handle, and rebuilt an old concorde mini taper that runs sweeeeet
> ...


I'm sure the DM 3.5" is nice. I use a 3.5" Northstar.

Curious about your adjustable short handle?


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

cazna said:


> The 5.5 makes a sweet nail spotter



Wow!!!....such a wide swath for a little dimple? But...whatever works for you


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Square Foot said:


> Wow!!!....such a wide swath for a little dimple? But...whatever works for you


Sorry Caz but it is a little dimple thats needing filled !!:yes:
Why do some people need 2 fill,fill,fill a screw hole??? 
2 coats is plenty!:whistling2:
Bring it on three coats:blink:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

VANMAN said:


> Sorry Caz but it is a little dimple thats needing filled !!:yes:
> Why do some people need 2 fill,fill,fill a screw hole???
> 2 coats is plenty!:whistling2:
> Bring it on three coats:blink:


I still have yet to see a 2 coated screw not show back through... I wish we could 2 coat.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Square Foot said:


> I'm sure the DM 3.5" is nice. I use a 3.5" Northstar.
> 
> Curious about your adjustable short handle?


There is a pic on here somewhere, will take some better ones later.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

thefinisher said:


> I still have yet to see a 2 coated screw not show back through... I wish we could 2 coat.


Tried it once with Rapid Coat as per directions on the box. Looked good when I left, but I still wake up in a cold sweat waiting for the phone call.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Square Foot said:


> Wow!!!....such a wide swath for a little dimple? But...whatever works for you





VANMAN said:


> Sorry Caz but it is a little dimple thats needing filled !!:yes:
> Why do some people need 2 fill,fill,fill a screw hole???
> 2 coats is plenty!:whistling2:
> Bring it on three coats:blink:


How are you sanding it begs the question, Are you both sanding by hand, Im using a PC, They have a 8 or 9 inch head and its one fast pass and done, So what if its a dot or a 3.5 or a 5.5, Its easier to place the sander at the start of a run of screws and lift off once at the end, Not on off on off on off.

Once sanded the 5.5 leaves about a 3.5 run of mud with very fine edges and covered screws, But don't you dare try it, Nor anyone else either


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

cazna said:


> How are you sanding it begs the question, Are you both sanding by hand, Im using a PC, They have a 8 or 9 inch head and its one fast pass and done, So what if its a dot or a 3.5 or a 5.5, Its easier to place the sander at the start of a run of screws and lift off once at the end, Not on off on off on off.
> 
> Once sanded the 5.5 leaves about a 3.5 run of mud with very fine edges and covered screws, But don't you dare try it, Nor anyone else either


Actually, I always tight three coat the screws. There is no need to mound the surrounding surface.

Due to walls generally being colors, I spot ( small spots ) the screws, as stripes can ( depending on lighting ) introduce excessive texture flashing when painted. Ceilings will be striped as long as light cast is not severe. 

My sanding method is a combination of PC, pole and hand sand with a light.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> How are you sanding it begs the question, Are you both sanding by hand, Im using a PC, They have a 8 or 9 inch head and its one fast pass and done, So what if its a dot or a 3.5 or a 5.5, Its easier to place the sander at the start of a run of screws and lift off once at the end, Not on off on off on off.
> 
> Once sanded the 5.5 leaves about a 3.5 run of mud with very fine edges and covered screws, But don't you dare try it, Nor anyone else either


My worker sands screws and angles with a silly stick and i sand the joints with the flex!!!
Never ever had a problem 2 coating screws and i have taped quite a number of houses!:yes:
And also painted them so i would know if there was a problem!!:thumbsup:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

VANMAN said:


> My worker sands screws and angles with a silly stick and i sand the joints with the flex!!!
> Never ever had a problem 2 coating screws and i have taped quite a number of houses!:yes:
> And also painted them so i would know if there was a problem!!:thumbsup:


why you don't sand the screws with the flex in the same time with the joints? :blink:
I do it the same: 2 coats (1 hot mud and 1 finish coat) and sand with PC and never had a problem :thumbsup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

keke said:


> why you don't sand the screws with the flex in the same time with the joints? :blink:
> I do it the same: 2 coats (1 hot mud and 1 finish coat) and sand with PC and never had a problem :thumbsup:


I like my worker 2 do some work lol!!
I use usg blue and have never seen a sunk screw head yet!!!:thumbsup:
Not sure about this 3 fill on screws when u can fill a beveled joint in 2!!!!!!!:eek


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

For me i spend more time on the joints rather than the screws!! They are the main part of the job!!!:thumbsup:
Come on folks i dont believe u cant fill a screw head in 2!!!!!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> Come on folks i dont believe u cant fill a screw head in 2!!!!!


Some screws on my jobs I could.

But then there's the ones that got a quick coat with taping mud while I was up near them installing and wiping down tapes, and they're too inconvenient to come back to any more than I have to. That mud shrinks back too much, so 2 more coats needed.

Then there's the screws that are set in deeper than others, and won't cover well enough with only 2 coats. They can be all over the place.
Instead of my spending time wondering which will cover all right with 2 coats, I just coat them all with 3 and it's good.


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I do 2 coats. I use proform light weight no shrink back. This is hand finishing them. I have never used a box for them.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

A smooth finish said:


> I do 2 coats. I use proform light weight no shrink back. This is hand finishing them. I have never used a box for them.


 Wish I could follow behind boarding crews that I could trust enough to do something like that, even by hand.

Last job I finished, the 1st crew got fired, they were making enough of a mess and were too slow for the job completion deadline. But the damage had been done, including screws. The 2nd crew did better, but there was still those screws that needed more attention.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> I like my worker 2 do some work lol!!
> I use usg blue and have never seen a sunk screw head yet!!!:thumbsup:
> Not sure about this 3 fill on screws when u can fill a beveled joint in 2!!!!!!!:eek


Some on this site count the tape as a coat, so would 2 passes on the joints pass without tape

I agree with what justme says in his post, and I will also admit the muds are better these days, back in the day, the 3rd coat was called a sanding coat, b/c the mud sucked to sand.

Plus amount of water added to mud affects shrinkage, so I find that straight stiff mud out of the box works best for both coats if 2 coating. But thats killer on the wrist, especially the last coat, and also eliminates the use of the nail spotter if you have one.

I will compare it to paper corner bead, can I coat out paper bead in 2 coats, I sure can:yes:, but is it worth it. If I have a few sticks in a house to coat, I may do it since my mud mix will be stiffer, and I won't be killing my wrist from stroking them out. But if I have 80 sticks in front of me to coat out, then I will 2 and a half coat them. (which is 3 coats). The ease of use with thinner mud allows for more speed, and no surprises when checking out with a light at the end of a job....... Over all, three coats is the safer bet.

Just my 2 bucks worth..........


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Over all, three coats is the safer bet.


:thumbsup:


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> For me i spend more time on the joints rather than the screws!! They are the main part of the job!!!:thumbsup:
> Come on folks i dont believe u cant fill a screw head in 2!!!!!


I could never in good conscience only do 2 coats on screws. That would never fly around here and have never seen it work 100%.

I'm assuming you must work in the ultimate ideal conditions and have the best material available to achieve your success ?

Or your eyesight ain't what it used to be. :jester:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Plus amount of water added to mud affects shrinkage, so I find that straight stiff mud out of the box works best for both coats if 2 coating. But thats killer on the wrist, especially the last coat


I don't know how thick is your mud but when I do a job by hand I always mix it without water - so I won't have the 'wrist problem'


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

o bay yore master


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

keke said:


> I don't know how thick is your mud but when I do a job by hand I always mix it without water - so I won't have the 'wrist problem'


what :blink::blink:

Do I really have to explain this one


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> what :blink::blink:
> 
> Do I really have to explain this one


 I think he is confused a little. Up is down and down is up...


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

2 coats is all we do unless its a Level 5 smoothwall job. We use stiff mud on first coat and a little less stiff on second. I think some guys are coating screws with there taping mud:whistling2: which is basically pissin in the wind,, imo


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Three coat= peace of mind... what's the big deal about 3 coats anyway. Chances are there will be a few paper pops where the screw was missed and pulled out or some other little minor detail 3 coats assure that everything is done. If you are only 2 coating then you must not be charging enough and are trying to slide on the quality. There are really no shortcuts on some things you do.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Some day 2 coating the screws will come back and bite u in the arse, after it is painted you may be liable for a complete repaint at your expense. I don't know of anyone that likes to work for free.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

spottin screws 3 times is working for free imo, unless its Level 5. Remember 90% of what I do gets a texture, and Ive been doing this too long to come back and fix a hollow screw


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

mudslingr said:


> I could never in good conscience only do 2 coats on screws. That would never fly around here and have never seen it work 100%.
> 
> I'm assuming you must work in the ultimate ideal conditions and have the best material available to achieve your success ?
> 
> Or your eyesight ain't what it used to be. :jester:


Eyesight is 20/20 unless drunk!!!:thumbup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

chris said:


> spottin screws 3 times is working for free imo, unless its Level 5. Remember 90% of what I do gets a texture, and Ive been doing this too long to come back and fix a hollow screw


Never had in my life 2 come back fix a hollow screw!!Its all good here chris:thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I have a sweet little 3'' knife I spot 2 coats with Heavy then skim them tight with a [ADVANCE 6''] But then.... I don't have to spot near as many field screws as some of you guys do..


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

moore said:


> I have a sweet little 3'' knife I spot 2 coats with Heavy then skim them tight with a [ADVANCE 6''] But then.... I don't have to spot near as many field screws as some of you guys do..


We have 2 spot thousands over here Moore so i should know if there was a problem with just the 2 coats!!:yes:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Most Jobs we use Ruco all purpose. For anybody that has used this mud knows it is very heavy mud with a ton of glue in it. It really doesn't shrink that bad and you would think 2 coats would work just fine . The fact is that some screws will be fine while others will be hollow. We have yet to use a mud that could cover a screw with just 2 coats.... a 500w halogen will find the 2 spotted screws very quickly :yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

chris said:


> I think some guys are coating screws with there taping mud:whistling2: which is basically pissin in the wind,, imo


I think of any screws spotted with taping mud as being more a 1/2 coat, chris. The screws might not really need 3 coats, but 2 doesn't seem enough, when all factors are considered. At least all factors in the situations I'm usually into - eg. rarely anything textured. 2 1/2 coats - that does it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

This thread is about Drywall Master tools ..But were all in a pissing match over how many coats over a screw! I love this place!!!:thumbup:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

moore said:


> This thread is about Drywall Master tools ..But were all in a pissing match over how many coats over a screw! I love this place!!!:thumbup:


On my tools all day today. Got everything base coated. Tomorrow I am going to have to scrape the screw holes flush, They'll look like little muffin tops. ( Brown bag swells) Then I'll put a top coat on. I don't see the need for a third coat.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Tomorrow I am going to have to scrape the screw holes flush, They'll look like little muffin tops. ( Brown bag swells) Then I'll put a top coat on. I don't see the need for a third coat.


I'm not so sure on the stop and scrape each one flush before coating them again - how much better, faster that might be than just swiping again by hand or with a nail spotter and moving on to the next row, that I use with a 3 coat (or my previous explained 2 1/2 coat) approach.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I am thinking about going to the movies tonight


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

JustMe said:


> I'm not so sure on the stop and scrape each one flush before coating them again - how much better, faster that might be than just swiping again by hand or with a nail spotter and moving on to the next row, that I use with a 3 coat (or my previous explained 2 1/2 coat) approach.


I didn't say its faster, I don't count scraping or prepping for topping as a coat.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I didn't say its faster, I don't count scraping or prepping for topping as a coat.


My mistake. The implication it was faster seemed to be there, in how it was stated that 3 coats seemed unnecessary - which it wouldn't be necessary, I suppose, if the overall speed needed in getting the job done isn't so much a concern.

I wouldn't count scraping as a coat, either. As I said, or tried to say, it seems like having to stop and do that scraping would make it slower overall - for me and my work - than doing the 2 1/2 or 3 coat approach.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I like Drywall Master Tools :thumbsup:.


And we do three coat on screws. We don't have very many so we may as well get as much practice as possible :whistling2:.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> This thread is about Drywall Master tools ..


I'm still trying to work out a place in my finishing systems for the 2 Drywall Master tools I have - a 3 1/2" angle head and their 5.5" box.

The angle head didn't come set up, and I haven't been bothered enough yet to do that. My Columbias came set up nicely, and they do the job.

The 5.5" box - not enough mud to me for doing anything too seriously with it as far as boxing things. I'm thinking I'll hook it to a power material feed system and see about trying to use it for things like coating tear away fast mask and offset angles, when I have enough of it to do. Maybe for a 1/2 coat on plastic bead as well, like 2buck does with knife/trowel. It can work for screw coating.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

We use PAs 5.5 to coat inside off angles. Does an excellent job!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

fr8train said:


> We use PAs 5.5 to coat inside off angles. Does an excellent job!


I've used it for that. Got an older TT 7" box that I've used as well.

Still want more mud. I'm going to be putting something together for that, maybe this week.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I'm still trying to work out a place in my finishing systems for the 2 Drywall Master tools I have - a 3 1/2" angle head and their 5.5" box.
> 
> The angle head didn't come set up, and I haven't been bothered enough yet to do that. My Columbias came set up nicely, and they do the job.
> 
> The 5.5" box - not enough mud to me for doing anything too seriously with it as far as boxing things. I'm thinking I'll hook it to a power material feed system and see about trying to use it for things like coating tear away fast mask and offset angles, when I have enough of it to do. Maybe for a 1/2 coat on plastic bead as well, like 2buck does with knife/trowel. It can work for screw coating.


Richardman has been under wraps for nearly 4 years ..How long will it take you to reveal what YOU have?


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

JustMe said:


> My mistake. The implication it was faster seemed to be there, in how it was stated that 3 coats seemed unnecessary - which it wouldn't be necessary, I suppose, if the overall speed needed in getting the job done isn't so much a concern.
> 
> I wouldn't count scraping as a coat, either. As I said, or tried to say, it seems like having to stop and do that scraping would make it slower overall - for me and my work - than doing the 2 1/2 or 3 coat approach.


Sorry for the confusion. I like to work at my own pace, my own way. 

It's not so much as stopping to prep, But prepping as I go. Scrape the three ways and Screws. The flats are pretty much ready to go, Maybe a booger or a hitchhiker here and there.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> Richardman has been under wraps for nearly 4 years ..How long will it take you to reveal what YOU have?


I'm going to be like Ice, and tell but not show. 

I'm not sure how Rick is making out. I'm still tweaking some finer points, but the fundamentals work, which I can apply to taping, boxing, doing angles, texturing. Patent issues is what's holding things up mostly, and the amount of $ for them in particular.

I can't even use the latest generation I've got to do a commercial job - even if I 'black box' the things so it can't be figured out how they work - without losing patent rights in places like Europe, Australia, if things haven't been filed for. It would also trigger the one year filing grace period for places like North America, which I don't care to do right now.

But I don't want to hold these things up forever. This winter is when I plan to try and get things tied up so I can start showing them, see about probably licensing them, if there's interest. I don't know how much I care to get into manufacturing.

I will say that I tried to address all the more major issues we've talked about on here - more mud, adjustable mud flow rate, extendability, something that could decently enough handle hot muds as well, easier on the body, quick setup and takedown, low maintenance, cost - and am thinking to throw in a couple more things I thought might be nice to have. Eg. Being able to use one's current bazooka, when wanted, for a continuous flow setup. That one I'm working on some.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

JustMe said:


> am thinking to throw in a couple more things I thought might be nice to have. Eg. Being able to use one's current bazooka, when wanted, for a continuous flow setup. That one I'm working on some.


As a btw, for banjo users, another thing I was looking at some was being able to have a continuous flow banjo, that could maybe make use of one's existing banjo.

Then there'd be a whole new something to argue about - continuous flow bazooka vs. continuous flow banjo.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

fr8train said:


> We use PAs 5.5 to coat inside off angles. Does an excellent job!


I'll second that, saves tons of time on jobs with long horizontal runs.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Mudslinger said:


> I'll second that, saves tons of time on jobs with long horizontal runs.


I have one and dont use it too much...I wish there was a 5.5 0r 6'' fatboy and I would pay for it aaron


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

JustMe said:


> I'm going to be like Ice, and tell but not show.
> 
> I'm not sure how Rick is making out. I'm still tweaking some finer points, but the fundamentals work, which I can apply to taping, boxing, doing angles, texturing. Patent issues is what's holding things up mostly, and the amount of $ for them in particular.
> 
> ...


No offense, but I'll believe it when I see it. Hard to get excited when 99% of the time inventors just string people along to gain their knowledge and use them to test their products without compensating them in return. I wish you the best in your development, but I'll be out making money with my Drywall Masters while your trying to improve on already proven tools.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

icerock drywall said:


> I have one and dont use it too much...I wish there was a 5.5 0r 6'' fatboy and I would pay for it aaron


I don't know if I would want a fat boy version, I have areas where the taller profile would just get in the way. As long as you keep moving a couple extra pumps here, and there is still way faster than doing it by hand.:yes:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Mudslinger said:


> I don't know if I would want a fat boy version, I have areas where the taller profile would just get in the way. As long as you keep moving a couple extra pumps here, and there is still way faster than doing it by hand.:yes:


I would give you ,my 5.5 for a 6'' fatboy box :yes:


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

icerock drywall said:


> I would give you ,my 5.5 for a 6'' fatboy box :yes:


Ice get off your wallet and contract them to build you one! If they won't do it start talking to machinists in your area produce it, and sell your own version. I've got a good friend that did this with race car control arms. He advertises on one web site, and off that one he makes over 40,000 a year profit with that one business.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Mudslinger said:


> No offense, but I'll believe it when I see it. Hard to get excited when 99% of the time inventors just string people along to gain their knowledge and use them to test their products without compensating them in return. I wish you the best in your development, but I'll be out making money with my Drywall Masters while your trying to improve on already proven tools.


Was wondering if and when someone was maybe going to call me on this.  

No, no offense. I can appreciate skepticism about claims that seem to go beyond just incremental improvements, without having visuals to verify it.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

JustMe said:


> As a btw, for banjo users, another thing I was looking at some was being able to have a continuous flow banjo, that could maybe make use of one's existing banjo.
> 
> Then there'd be a whole new something to argue about - continuous flow bazooka vs. continuous flow banjo.


You might want to see RHardman about that one


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> You might want to see RHardman about that one


 Thanks, K-man. I'm sure Rick has similar thoughts about anything where power systems might help to make things make more sense. How much overlap there might be in the way to deliver on those thoughts........... .

I'm pretty sure he's further along than I am in getting a # of things to market. But this is more just a project to me, as I have other things outside of drywall. But I still enjoy keeping my hand in drywall finishing. I'd just like to see things stepped up in a way that hopefully makes sense. Eg. - Especially reducing injuries. I'm off again for a few weeks, for a twisted knee, that likely wouldn't have happened if I'd had something to help me with 'reach' on some commercial walls. Reading about all the injuries you guys have and have had as well, I don't consider good. If nothing else, I'd put what I have out there in a 'creative commons' way just so it could help with that. Might do that, with at least some of it.

There should be some interesting tools coming out in the next while, I think. Some of the things we've talked about on here - 'power knives', powered coaters for doing both sides of bead at the same time, power .......... - things we've pretty universally agreed on that seem wanted/needed, especially since things like house designs seem to have changed so much, with their higher and more complex ceilings, and more complex walls.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

You Ain't 20 no more JM!! That was 30 years ago!! 

Ya gotta mellow down easy ole man!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

moore said:


> You Ain't 20 no more JM!! That was 30 years ago!!
> 
> Ya gotta mellow down easy ole man!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0UoNjFpX7Qw


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> You Ain't 20 no more JM!! That was 30 years ago!!
> 
> Ya gotta mellow down easy ole man!


I've said it before - you're a good soul, moore.

But I think I'll leave this world kicking it. Even if that's from a wheelchair. :wheelchair:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I'm going to be like Ice, and tell but not show.
> 
> I'm not sure how Rick is making out. I'm still tweaking some finer points, but the fundamentals work, which I can apply to taping, boxing, doing angles, texturing. Patent issues is what's holding things up mostly, and the amount of $ for them in particular.
> 
> ...


you could never be like ice...and I do show alot:whistling2:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> you could never be like ice...and I do show alot:whistling2:


I know, Ice. Just poking a bit of fun.

As for me.....

I'm thinking that if it turns out it wouldn't create something like a potential patent problem, I could maybe video/show at least some of the results of what could be done with especially my hoseless power system(?) A system where hoses aren't needed. That one might prove to be of most interest(?)

Just need a not-for-profit situation to put it to that makes sense enough(?) I'll check into it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I've said it before - you're a good soul, moore.
> 
> But I think I'll leave this world kicking it. Even if that's from a wheelchair. :wheelchair:


Oh.. I know you a bonafide working man JM! There was never any doubt in my mind about that!!


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