# Need opinion!!!!!!!!



## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

We have a ceiling thats proven to be impossible,need your guys help. Told me boss i would get on here and get some good feedback. We have a bsmnt ceiling that looks horrid,theres a small window,right below the ceiling facing the west that looks reaaaalllll bad in the evenings. I havent seen it bud the guy that is telling me this is good drywall man. He said u can see every flat,butt,even where lights are circled. He had em skim solid,5 boxes,retextured with k.d. and they said it looks worse. Any idears, were wanting to avoid tearing out,and ive already suggested putting blinds up and avoiding bsmnt in evening hrs.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Flat paint? 






On the window?


I'm not sure I buy the "good drywall", but then again, that long low sunlight is a b!tch. Too bad they blew a KD on it, it's gonna be really hard to fix now.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

lol, blinds on the window ,thats like saying put a picture over that hole 
you won't like my answer but ,without pics ,you may half to make the ceiling perfect level .Put a straight edge to the ceiling and fill out hollows .We had to do this on a commercial job once where the specs called for perfect level .It helps refract the light better.You start with a 6' straight edge ,then use a 4' one ,then down to a 2' straight edge .Since your spraying the ceiling ,I would say with in 4' span should be good enough .


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## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

no i meant the guy thats telling me is good drywall man,not the tapers that did it,but the sun light is making it reeeeaaaalllll bad,paint type really wouldnt matter i dont think on k.d. ceiling,the flat will show just as bad if its really that wavy,


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Hang another layer on it and finish it again.now you know what your up against


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## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

think just pull mud on heavy and pull it with sraight edge going with the flats


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> Hang another layer on it and finish it again.now you know what your up against


if he were to re-hang,I would place resilient channel up 1st to help level it .
but we dont know if it is just a overall wavy ceiling or bad joints:yes:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Verry true. lots of varribles to factor in with out pic


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

muddermankc said:


> no i meant the guy thats telling me is good drywall man,not the tapers that did it,but the sun light is making it reeeeaaaalllll bad,paint type really wouldnt matter i dont think on k.d. ceiling,the flat will show just as bad if its really that wavy,


Oh, sorry, I misunderstood about the good drywall man.

I guess I'm curious how the whole thing got skimmed and still looks terrible. I know you said you haven't seen it, but I'd like to. The guys are all onto viable options, laminate, channel, straight edges, etc., but what's cheapest? You'll probably save money doing another full on tight skim and then leveling it out. Then your only outflow is mud and labor, skipping the new rock, channel, etc. 

Oh, and flat paint rules.:thumbsup:


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## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

im gonna go look and get pic,its killing me now i gotta see it


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## master plasterer (Feb 11, 2011)

muddermankc said:


> We have a ceiling thats proven to be impossible,need your guys help. Told me boss i would get on here and get some good feedback. We have a bsmnt ceiling that looks horrid,theres a small window,right below the ceiling facing the west that looks reaaaalllll bad in the evenings. I havent seen it bud the guy that is telling me this is good drywall man. He said u can see every flat,butt,even where lights are circled. He had em skim solid,5 boxes,retextured with k.d. and they said it looks worse. Any idears, were wanting to avoid tearing out,and ive already suggested putting blinds up and avoiding bsmnt in evening hrs.


tear out, board over, or power sand and skim.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

....


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Now I gotta see it too. Were these WBS finishers originally? Was this home finished in the winter? If these joints are showing up through a KD texture, and they were WBS finishers in the winter, am told those guys have been real prone to using a huge amount of setting compound since no one wants to pay to heat houses anymore. If that is the case, the setting compound is the likely culprit.

I'd have to see how bad the humps are before I decided if I'd skim it flat or overlay it. I take it that this house faces north and the basement is a walk out to the south, that the winter sun is low enough that they've been complaining since Christmas.

Other suggestion: Pay to tint the basement windows.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> I'd have to see how bad the humps are before I decided if I'd skim it flat or overlay it. I take it that this house faces north and the basement is a walk out to the south, that the winter sun is low enough that they've been complaining since Christmas.


He said it's a west window, so I'm guessing it looks like sh!t every evening when the sun goes down....right about the time you'd like to relax on the couch and then you see your ceiling:blink::whistling2:


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## ell (Jan 24, 2009)

As much as I hate to admit to it their are some walls and ceilings that no matter what you do will not look any better.Sometimes you fix one problem and create another.Oblique light is the worst if you go to the Gypsum association site their are guide lines for critical light their final suggestion is to tint windows or the use of blinds.So good luck most time it is only for a short time that it will look bad.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Now I gotta see it too. Were these WBS finishers originally? Was this home finished in the winter? If these joints are showing up through a KD texture, and they were WBS finishers in the winter, am told those guys have been real prone to using a huge amount of setting compound since no one wants to pay to heat houses anymore. If that is the case, the setting compound is the likely culprit.
> 
> I'd have to see how bad the humps are before I decided if I'd skim it flat or overlay it. I take it that this house faces north and the basement is a walk out to the south, that the winter sun is low enough that they've been complaining since Christmas.
> 
> Other suggestion: Pay to tint the basement windows.


how would the setting compound be a problem?


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Depending on how the light hits the ceiling it may never be perfect. Some lighting is impossible to deal with no matter what you do. when the lighting is that critical it should be plaster veneered and not taped.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

moore said:


> how would the setting compound be a problem?


Ah, the old 'why is setting type the problem' debate. Should I bother to again explain how it doesn't shrink back the same as regular mud? Butts or any joints finished, start to finish, by particularly low-end finishers is gonna look like azz. 

Setting might be tolerable in a textured, one-day bath/remodel and such, but it has no place being used as THE only mud on a McManse. Crap, now I just told my competition the secret. LOL


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Setting might be tolerable in a textured, one-day bath/remodel and such, but it has no place being used as THE only mud on a McManse. Crap, now I just told my competition the secret. LOL


If your competition is using setting mud start to finish you have nothing to worry about:thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> Ah, the old 'why is setting type the problem' debate. Should I bother to again explain how it doesn't shrink back the same as regular mud? Butts or any joints finished, start to finish, by particularly low-end finishers is gonna look like azz.
> 
> Setting might be tolerable in a textured, one-day bath/remodel and such, but it has no place being used as THE only mud on a McManse. Crap, now I just told my competition the secret. LOL


 I will use hot mud for block in on butts . [ due to insufficient heating] top off with a/p. 3-4 coats , whatever it takes to soften up the high spot. never had a call back for a butt joint . just screw pops @ walking trusses . your right. hot mud will not work well start to finish. it says on bag ..
[finish repairs in one trip] not true! hot mud does have it's place. you just have to know when @ where to use [email protected] how much. :icon_eek:


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

They only beat me on price. I kick their azzes on quality, every day. Used to fear them coming for my gravy builders. Since I no longer have such a thing, I just snicker or ROFLMAO when I hear tales from the dark side now.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

[email protected] said:


> They only beat me on price. I kick their azzes on quality, every day. Used to fear them coming for my gravy builders. Since I no longer have such a thing, I just snicker or ROFLMAO when I hear tales from the dark side now.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


I did one bathroom, one time with 100% hot mud. It was L4 too. I had to go back a week or two later and touch up a couple of dings from the other trades and it actually looked pretty good....but I won't do it again if I can avoid it. Hot mud is great for so many things, but you have to keep your wits about you:yes:...it's not a perfect solution for everything.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> I did one bathroom, one time with 100% hot mud. It was L4 too. I had to go back a week or two later and touch up a couple of dings from the other trades and it actually looked pretty good....but I won't do it again if I can avoid it. Hot mud is great for so many things, but you have to keep your wits about you:yes:...it's not a perfect solution for everything.


I had a taping buddy ( yes a not me story) who use to do reno's in banks for a while for some Company that did them.They would half to work at night and would push everything with hot mud.They would tape and coat it one night. Then go back and skim and sand the next night.He said it looked good when they painted it. But he went back 3 months later or so to one bank he helped on.He was like dear lord,you could see everything. He said you could even see the holes from the metal bead.Thats how bad it was:yes:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I had a taping buddy ( yes a not me story) who use to do reno's in banks for a while for some Company that did them.They would half to work at night and would push everything with hot mud.They would tape and coat it one night. Then go back and skim and sand the next night.He said it looked good when they painted it. But he went back 3 months later or so to one bank he helped on.He was like dear lord,you could see everything. He said you could even see the holes from the metal bead.Thats how bad it was:yes:


Yeah, I've gone back to some quickie jobs that I've done in one trip, about 6 months later, smooth walls, and I could see tape Now I always throw a good skim coat on with regular mud, and I never walk away until it's totally dry.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

fenez said:


> Depending on how the light hits the ceiling it may never be perfect. Some lighting is impossible to deal with no matter what you do. when the lighting is that critical it should be plaster veneered and not taped.


:thumbupitto, I know its not the answer you want ,but its the correct one


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Hot mud and a/p take the same amount of time to completely cure.
push hot mud tape will show.
push a/p tape will show.
20 min/ 45min/ 90 min/120 min . they all take ABOUT the same amount of time to completely cure.


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## Lone Ranger (Feb 19, 2011)

If its an area that has to look good and you dont want to tear out any rock,put highhat channel over existing ceiling (shimming it level as you go).Then hang your new ceiling.(if theres enough clearence between existing ceiling and top of windows).Otherwise you may have to gut it.


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