# Newest Fresco Harmony brick cover



## Nick Harmon

This one was pretty thick! I still only used one preliminary coat of quick set. We're doing a total of 4 coats. I used 8 bags of quickset, 3 boxes of sheetrock brand all purpose joint compound with three Minor Sand color packs. Oh, and gold! More pics to come.


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## Nick Harmon

*As of today*

Gold accents on center. The clients opted to not use metal. I was going to use tape-on but they wanted the "organic" feel.


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## PrecisionTaping

That's crazy! So much work!


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## moore

PrecisionTaping said:


> That's crazy! So much work!


 Is it?


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> That's crazy! So much work!


Is it though????

What if you were to drywall and tape it, how many trips would that be, plus do design.

Mr Harmon does not state time line, but my guess would be under 2 days. One to prep wall, second day do the texture/design.

it's a debatable subject


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## moore

If it sticks...And I don't see why it wouldn't ..He's good ta go!


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Is it though????
> 
> What if you were to drywall and tape it, how many trips would that be, plus do design.
> 
> Mr Harmon does not state time line, but my guess would be under 2 days. One to prep wall, second day do the texture/design.
> 
> it's a debatable subject


I see this one taking 3 trips.........if the heat is cranking and the dehumidifiers are rolling along. That mud is going to take some time to dry.........


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## Mr.Brightstar

SlimPickins said:


> I see this one taking 3 trips.........if the heat is cranking and the dehumidifiers are rolling along. That mud is going to take some time to dry.........


Actually that mud will dry quick going over brick. My guess would be to five hour days for that one wall. What the hell do I know I'm just a Young buck.


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## Square Foot

SlimPickins said:


> I see this one taking 3 trips.........if the heat is cranking and the dehumidifiers are rolling along. That mud is going to take some time to dry.........


Agree, 3 trips.


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I see this one taking 3 trips.........if the heat is cranking and the dehumidifiers are rolling along. That mud is going to take some time to dry.........


Maybe go with the veneer drywall, and plaster, then design done on second day.....

Where did Mr Harmon and Moose boy go, thought they would be debating methods:whistling2:


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## SlimPickins

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Actually that mud will dry quick going over brick. My guess would be to five hour days for that one wall. What the hell do I know I'm just a Young buck.


Here's a question for you then...

The moisture from the mud is going to go where? I sense an implication that the brick will suck it out...if it does, the moisture is going to go into the brick. It will need to come back out. Thoroughly. 8 bags of hot mud in 30-35' feet of wall is a sh!tpile of mud. It MIGHT dry over-night, but I'd want to dig in it to make sure before tossing a finish product on it. You're right about 5 hour days though, and I think it would only take 2 days of work....with a dry day in between. Don't forget masking and clean-up though! (I always forget one or the other when pricing little random jobs)

Personally, I'd use Ultra-Fill over the brick, then hit it again right way....if it's going right you can be done in a day but it will take a looong time to dry:laughing: And, you would also have to paint it.....which doesn't have the feel of tinted finishes.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Maybe go with the veneer drywall, and plaster, then design done on second day.....
> 
> Where did Mr Norman and Moose boy go, thought they would be debating methods:whistling2:


Who's Mr. Norman?


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Who's Mr. Norman?


Edit applied:whistling2:

Must be excited from Leafs winning hockey game tonight, and the new sheep post:thumbup:


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## Mr.Brightstar

SlimPickins said:


> Here's a question for you then...
> 
> The moisture from the mud is going to go where? I sense an implication that the brick will suck it out...if it does, the moisture is going to go into the brick. It will need to come back out. Thoroughly. 8 bags of hot mud in 30-35' feet of wall is a sh!tpile of mud. It MIGHT dry over-night, but I'd want to dig in it to make sure before tossing a finish product on it. You're right about 5 hour days though, and I think it would only take 2 days of work....with a dry day in between. Don't forget masking and clean-up though! (I always forget one or the other when pricing little random jobs)
> 
> Personally, I'd use Ultra-Fill over the brick, then hit it again right way....if it's going right you can be done in a day but it will take a looong time to dry:laughing: And, you would also have to paint it.....which doesn't have the feel of tinted finishes.


Where does the moisture go when a batch of hot mud sets up. Gypsum strips the hydrogen atom From the H 20 And the oxygen is released into the air That is also why it gets hot. 15-20 Gallons 6-8 bags Dura bond 90. And yes it won't be completely dry until the next day but it will be bone dry the next day.


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## SlimPickins

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Where does the moisture go when a batch of hot mud sets up. Gypsum strips the hydrogen atom From the H 20 And the oxygen is released into the air That is also why it gets hot. 15-20 Gallons 6-8 bags Dura bond 90. And yes it won't be completely dry until the next day but it will be bone dry the next day.


The moisture doesn't go anywhere when hot mud sets up...the chemical reaction causes it to harden, not dry any faster.

While I can understand that the brick will suck out moisture, and also that it has a large amount of thermal mass that, if warm, will facilitate drying, 20 gallons of mud on the wall is going to need some time to dry. Not surface dry.........but dry. The heating/air circulation conditions are the real determining factor. 

Hey Nick........how long did it take the hot mud to dry? I'm not saying that it's impossible for it to dry overnight......sometimes it happens (much to my surprise and delight). 

By the way........nice work Nick!


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## Mr.Brightstar

SlimPickins said:


> The moisture doesn't go anywhere when hot mud sets up...the chemical reaction causes it to harden, not dry any faster.
> 
> While I can understand that the brick will suck out moisture, and also that it has a large amount of thermal mass that, if warm, will facilitate drying, 20 gallons of mud on the wall is going to need some time to dry. Not surface dry.........but dry. The heating/air circulation conditions are the real determining factor.
> 
> Hey Nick........how long did it take the hot mud to dry? I'm not saying that it's impossible for it to dry overnight......sometimes it happens (much to my surprise and delight).
> 
> By the way........nice work Nick!


The water turns into carbon and gas. If the plaster bleeds water there is too much water in the mix. Plaster is ever seeking a hydrogen atom it will take it from anywhere My hands are so dry and rough I can sand walls with them. 

If you were to put cement over brick without linking it or watering it down The brick would suck the moisture out of the cement and the cement would fail. Plaster can handle a flash set The faster it goes off the stronger it will be. 

That guys got a niche I wouldn't mind working a couple jobs with him.


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## 2buckcanuck

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Where does the moisture go when a batch of hot mud sets up. Gypsum strips the hydrogen atom From the H 20 And the oxygen is released into the air That is also why it gets hot. 15-20 Gallons 6-8 bags Dura bond 90. And yes it won't be completely dry until the next day but it will be bone dry the next day.


Your going to try and debate Slimpickins









All you can try and do is get Justme to come to your rescue







, But Ive tried and tried to get them to battle, but their too smart for the trickery.

Best to do this


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## SlimPickins

Mr.Brightstar said:


> The water turns into carbon and gas. If the plaster bleeds water there is too much water in the mix. Plaster is ever seeking a hydrogen atom it will take it from anywhere My hands are so dry and rough I can sand walls with them.
> 
> If you were to put cement over brick without linking it or watering it down The brick would suck the moisture out of the cement and the cement would fail. Plaster can handle a flash set The faster it goes off the stronger it will be.
> 
> That guys got a niche I wouldn't mind working a couple jobs with him.


I've seen cement fail first hand:thumbsup: That was a fun job!

We're not talking about strength here, we're talking about drying time. I'm not debating the structural properties of concrete vs. plaster vs. hot mud....I'm just saying this job will need (did need) time to dry. I'd be curious to hear from Nick on how long it took. I could certainly be wrong, and he could have done it all in one day. Hot mud shrinks most of the way during set, so with a hand textured finish you could probably get away with it. Personally, I'd play it safe in case the mud wanted to shrink into the mortar joints a little bit more. But, with a good first coat with hot mud, and then a tight skim with hot mud, you'd be ready for finish.

And yes, you're right....Nick has a very interesting niche going on. I'm going to try some of his product as soon as I can come up for air on this carpentry project. Maybe even upsell on the next big job:thumbsup:


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## Mr.Brightstar

SlimPickins said:


> I've seen cement fail first hand:thumbsup: That was a fun job!
> 
> We're not talking about strength here, we're talking about drying time. I'm not debating the structural properties of concrete vs. plaster vs. hot mud....I'm just saying this job will need (did need) time to dry. I'd be curious to hear from Nick on how long it took. I could certainly be wrong, and he could have done it all in one day. Hot mud shrinks most of the way during set, so with a hand textured finish you could probably get away with it. Personally, I'd play it safe in case the mud wanted to shrink into the mortar joints a little bit more. But, with a good first coat with hot mud, and then a tight skim with hot mud, you'd be ready for finish.
> 
> And yes, you're right....Nick has a very interesting niche going on. I'm going to try some of his product as soon as I can come up for air on this carpentry project. Maybe even upsell on the next big job:thumbsup:


Drying time next day Bone dry. A quicker set time than usual. Fill, Double back on day one. Finish the next day. 

I could be wrong I don't know his system. But that's my estimate $650.


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## SlimPickins

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Drying time next day Bone dry. A quicker set time than usual. Fill, Double back on day one. Finish the next day.
> 
> I could be wrong I don't know his system. But that's my estimate $650.


I went back and read the original post, he used one coat of hot mud, and three more coats went over it. I'm guessing one more coat of regular mud, and then two coats of finish (different color tones?).

I dunno why I'm speculating though....I'm sure he'll share all the ins and outs of his process:whistling2: Wouldn't be a bad idea, then he could get the homeowners all excited about a new way to spend their money(his product), mess up their homes, and hire him to come fix it. He wins twice!


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## Nick Harmon

Please don't mention paint ever again... Ha Ha. The big reason I do this is because I have control over the finish. However, painted brick is atrocious and covering and painting brick is something you could do, but why not use Fresco Harmony? I'm getting 4.00 per sq ft on this project (one extra dollar for the quickset prep). I'm making my money on the Fresco Harmony, the prep gets me the job! 

Day 1: I like the 90 min quickset because it shrinks less, and I don't have to work so fast. I mix it up on the hard side. This wall took 4 hrs to prep, pull the molding off the top, mask, and coat. I'll always let that coat dry overnight.

Day 2:The second coat is the textural base coat of Fresco Harmony with colored mud. It took two hours. This wall burned two boxes of mud, two color packs of Minor Sand for the base coat then I let that dry over night.

Day 3: Tight skim coat using up a further box of joint compound with minor sand color. This coat will dry quickly so I can seal and complete the project later that afternoon. 3 more hours (includes clean up). 

Total project time 9 hours. FH = $700.00, prep = $200.00 Net profit = $900.00 with tax... Total cost: 8 bags quickset @ 10.00 = 80.00, 3 boxes all purpose = 24.00
3 Fresco Harmony color packs @ 15 = 45.00 2 qt sealer = 40.00. Total material cost =roughly 200.00 (my prep) All the Fresco Harmony bid was profit. I would have spent 600 in American Clay. At less than 1000 how could they say no? My hourly rate minus color consultation was around 70 per hour. This is all I do, I need these jobs! 

If I was hanging sheetrock, I'd still need to finish the rock before beginning the FH. This is two extra steps. Wait... Who wants to hang sheetrock over brick? I'd take the pepsi challenge with hanging over the quickset prep any day. LOVE ALL THE FEEDBACK!!! I can't wait to see your Fresco Harmony projects begin to emerge.


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## Nick Harmon

I feel it also depends on which quickset you use. I feel 45 min will dry faster but if I'm leaving it overnight anyway, why not use 90 min and give myself ample working time?


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## Nick Harmon

On projects where I've tried to rush the Fresco Harmony base coat, the lines of the brick or but joint lines will want to flash. I'm not sure why this is, but when working with color you always want to stay on the safe side when it comes to drying. It's important for me to be less concerned with speed and more concerned with the finish look. If it looks like **** I won't stay busy very long. Art always comes first! Finally, just a side note, this entire job was done with joint compound.


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## bmitch

nice work nick.i received your sample pack today.thanks.looking forward to applying it this weekend .i'm prepping a bathroom in our home to give it a new look.the colour you sent is good fit with the colours already in the home.i'll keep you posted.


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## Nick Harmon

b said:


> nice work nick.i received your sample pack today.thanks.looking forward to applying it this weekend .i'm prepping a bathroom in our home to give it a new look.the colour you sent is good fit with the colours already in the home.i'll keep you posted.


Which color did I send? You could get 200 sq ft with one bucket. You may need more sealer though. Make sure to post pics.


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## Mr.Brightstar

Nick Harmon said:


> Please don't mention paint ever again... Ha Ha. The big reason I do this is because I have control over the finish. However, painted brick is atrocious and covering and painting brick is something you could do, but why not use Fresco Harmony? I'm getting 4.00 per sq ft on this project (one extra dollar for the quickset prep). I'm making my money on the Fresco Harmony, the prep gets me the job!
> 
> Day 1: I like the 90 min quickset because it shrinks less, and I don't have to work so fast. I mix it up on the hard side. This wall took 4 hrs to prep, pull the molding off the top, mask, and coat. I'll always let that coat dry overnight.
> 
> Day 2:The second coat is the textural base coat of Fresco Harmony with colored mud. It took two hours. This wall burned two boxes of mud, two color packs of Minor Sand for the base coat then I let that dry over night.
> 
> Day 3: Tight skim coat using up a further box of joint compound with minor sand color. This coat will dry quickly so I can seal and complete the project later that afternoon. 3 more hours (includes clean up).
> 
> Total project time 9 hours. FH = $700.00, prep = $200.00 Net profit = $900.00 with tax... Total cost: 8 bags quickset @ 10.00 = 80.00, 3 boxes all purpose = 24.00
> 3 Fresco Harmony color packs @ 15 = 45.00 2 qt sealer = 40.00. Total material cost =roughly 200.00 (my prep) All the Fresco Harmony bid was profit. I would have spent 600 in American Clay. At less than 1000 how could they say no? My hourly rate minus color consultation was around 70 per hour. This is all I do, I need these jobs!
> 
> If I was hanging sheetrock, I'd still need to finish the rock before beginning the FH. This is two extra steps. Wait... Who wants to hang sheetrock over brick? I'd take the pepsi challenge with hanging over the quickset prep any day. LOVE ALL THE FEEDBACK!!! I can't wait to see your Fresco Harmony projects begin to emerge.


Do you ever color the hot mud?


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## bmitch

Nick Harmon said:


> Which color did I send? You could get 200 sq ft with one bucket. You may need more sealer though. Make sure to post pics.


the colour's venetion zinc,i'm looking forward to playing with this product .hopefully i'll be able to post a picture of the finished product,thats only if can actually deliver on a decent finish:jester:thanks again for the sample.


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## Nick Harmon

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Do you ever color the hot mud?


Fresco Harmony has been designed, from the ground up, for efficiency. One element of plaster I didn't like right away was measuring product weight. If you measured weight of quickset it is possible to get color consistency but this adds a laborious step. I've created plenty of art with color in quickset. The color formulas I've designed are based on a box of mud and the color consistency is seamless (if you follow the directions). Also it is always the case that you'll need more than enough material. If the medium goes off it creates a ton of waste. Sometimes all I need to finish a job is a couple scoops. Finishing walls with a hawk and trowel is difficult enough. Lets keep the medium easy to use. Another advantage to keeping a bucket of FH laying around is to create samples or use for patching. I feel it's very key that the product keeps. All purpose is the best because you can fix patches and tape if needed.


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## Nick Harmon

b said:


> the colour's venetion zinc,i'm looking forward to playing with this product .hopefully i'll be able to post a picture of the finished product,thats only if can actually deliver on a decent finish:jester:thanks again for the sample.


That is an awesome color. You better carve a fish or something. I'm attaching a photo of a sample.


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## SlimPickins

Nick Harmon said:


> Fresco Harmony has been designed, from the ground up, for efficiency. One element of plaster I didn't like right away was measuring product weight. If you measured weight of quickset it is possible to get color consistency but this adds a laborious step. I've created plenty of art with color in quickset. The color formulas I've designed are based on a box of mud and the color consistency is seamless (if you follow the directions). Also it is always the case that you'll need more than enough material. If the medium goes off it creates a ton of waste. Sometimes all I need to finish a job is a couple scoops. Finishing walls with a hawk and trowel is difficult enough. Lets keep the medium easy to use. Another advantage to keeping a bucket of FH laying around is to create samples or use for patching. I feel it's very key that the product keeps. All purpose is the best because you can fix patches and tape if needed.


Good Lord.....your rose photo makes me see dollar signs. Big happy fun dollar signs.:thumbsup:


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## Nick Harmon

SlimPickins said:


> Good Lord.....your rose photo makes me see dollar signs. Big happy fun dollar signs.:thumbsup:


You're sample kit is on the way Slim.


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## moore

I like this guy:thumbup:


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## SlimPickins

Nick Harmon said:


> You're sample kit is on the way Slim.


Sweet! I'm excited! :thumbsup:


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## Nick Harmon

I'll give you the special Drywall Talk price on this one Slim. $799.95


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## moore

Nick Harmon said:


> I'll give you the special Drywall Talk price on this one Slim. $799.95


 OK!! Now your braggin....Am I the only one that can see the sheep? You guys see it?? 
Nick ..I'll give ya $800 If you can make a portrait of this little lady here.....:thumbup:


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## Nick Harmon

moore said:


> OK!! Now your braggin....Am I the only one that can see the sheep? You guys see it??
> Nick ..I'll give ya $800 If you can make a portrait of this little lady here.....:thumbup:


She's a beauty Moore. Can you mount her? I'll do it just for the pleasure of the experience.


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## gazman

Hi Nick, just in case you are not aware of who Julie the sheep is this will help you catch up. She has become a bit of a celeb.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/blogs/i-love-her


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## SlimPickins

Nick Harmon said:


> I'll give you the special Drywall Talk price on this one Slim. $799.95


Unfortunately for you Nick, I'm the artistic type, and I'm figuring I could make something myself for about $17.99 in materials on my lonesome.

Nice work though!


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## SlimPickins

Nick Harmon said:


> You're sample kit is on the way Slim.


 I received it today, and I've already handed out a set of brochures:thumbsup:


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## Nick Harmon

SlimPickins said:


> I received it today, and I've already handed out a set of brochures:thumbsup:


Those brochures are somewhat dated but they work. You may also print off photos straight from the website and order as many bottles as you want because the website went live today. Ill be posting a forum about it. Have a look!
Www.frescoharmony.com


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## SlimPickins

Nick Harmon said:


> Those brochures are somewhat dated but they work. You may also print off photos straight from the website and order as many bottles as you want because the website went live today. Ill be posting a forum about it. Have a look!
> Www.frescoharmony.com


My builders are interested, and I think it will give them an edge, being able to offer a product with the high end look but an affordable price tag. 

Website looks good! 

Hey, so the sample you sent, is that a full bottle for a full box of mud?


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## Nick Harmon

SlimPickins said:


> My builders are interested, and I think it will give them an edge, being able to offer a product with the high end look but an affordable price tag.
> 
> Website looks good!
> 
> Hey, so the sample you sent, is that a full bottle for a full box of mud?


Yes. Each bottle is based on a box of mud. It's important to keep that consistency as it pertains to samples, future patches, color charts etc. whatever mud you start using with Fresco Harmony make sure that's the mud you will be using. All current colors are based on Sheetrock brand lightweight all purpose joint compound. Of course I encourage outside the box thinking. I'm anxious to see innovation as well but when it pertains to footage, keep it simple and fast.


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## bmitch

wow nick you have a great concept here.taking drywall compound to the end finish is a great sell to us drywall finishers who have little or no experience with plaster products.i like it.i'm really impressed with the results i achieved doing a couple of small walls in our main bath at home.i won't be posting any pics till i get the room trimmed and completed.thanks.


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## bmitch

with left over product i'll add additional compound and limit it to a partial mix,2nd coat give it a complete mix,i'm guessing it'll give it a interesting look.


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## Nick Harmon

b said:


> with left over product i'll add additional compound and limit it to a partial mix,2nd coat give it a complete mix,i'm guessing it'll give it a interesting look.


That would absolutely work B. However, there is the issue of color consistency when carrying the color to another room or doing patches. You could never duplicate that color in other words. Always keep in mind color replication. When working with color it's important that color consistency is measured. If you had a client come over to see the bathroom and they liked that color, there would be no way to duplicate (exactly). That said, it's always better to mix another batch that is lighter in shade. I would suggest using a full 5 gal bucket of all purpose per one more bottle of Zinc Auburn. You'd have a lighter shade that could be duplicated, and that lighter shade over the darker Zinc Auburn base coat will look awesome! Keep in mind you'd be wise to note that batch was created separately hence a new color! You could always just mix a slightly different color (Sunset Hayse would look good) and achieve a similar result staying within the confines of the FH color spectrum. Also it has been stated before that you can obtain more sealer from Dunn Edwards Modern Masters venetian topcoat (or look it up online). Also BEHR venetian topcoat works which can be found at Home Depot. Great question! I look forward to seeing the pics.


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## SlimPickins

Nick Harmon said:


> Yes. Each bottle is based on a box of mud. It's important to keep that consistency as it pertains to samples, future patches, color charts etc. whatever mud you start using with Fresco Harmony make sure that's the mud you will be using. All current colors are based on Sheetrock brand lightweight all purpose joint compound. Of course I encourage outside the box thinking. I'm anxious to see innovation as well but when it pertains to footage, keep it simple and fast.


I think I'm going to use it with Fastex....it's a white mud so there won't be any coloration from the medium. Also, you can burnish it a little later in the game, unlike lightweight mud which will act funky if you touch it shortly after application. My only problem with Fresco Harmony so far is that I'm not the one who thought of it (I have tinted other muds, but never actually went for it.......good on ya:thumbsup


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## Nick Harmon

SlimPickins said:


> I think I'm going to use it with Fastex....it's a white mud so there won't be any coloration from the medium. Also, you can burnish it a little later in the game, unlike lightweight mud which will act funky if you touch it shortly after application. My only problem with Fresco Harmony so far is that I'm not the one who thought of it (I have tinted other muds, but never actually went for it.......good on ya:thumbsup


Yea, it seemed like a real easy idea 8 years ago. Then I started down the rabbit hole. Full circle, I've made it easy but it's taken a ton of work. Now all you have to do is use it and make tons of money. It's really a win-win. As for the mud I say go for it. Use the mud you like and are comfortable with. Just realize there may be slight color variation from my samples. Sheetrock brand is pretty white so you'll be ok. Also you'll be amazed with the color consistency from batch to batch. Just remember to check your color all the time. You can burnish the finish before or after the sealer but I've never bothered. I make it as easy as possible. 
~Nick


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## Mr.Brightstar

Nick Harmon said:


> Yea, it seemed like a real easy idea 8 years ago. Then I started down the rabbit hole. Full circle, I've made it easy but it's taken a ton of work. Now all you have to do is use it and make tons of money. It's really a win-win. As for the mud I say go for it. Use the mud you like and are comfortable with. Just realize there may be slight color variation from my samples. Sheetrock brand is pretty white so you'll be ok. Also you'll be amazed with the color consistency from batch to batch. Just remember to check your color all the time. You can burnish the finish before or after the sealer but I've never bothered. I make it as easy as possible.
> ~Nick


You make a great pizza too nick.


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## Nick Harmon

Mr.Brightstar said:


> You make a great pizza too nick.


This is my side job. Don't tell anyone.


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## chris

.... before pics of my fireplace, then some 1rst coat of Fresco Harmony. The darker is the wet areas


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## chris

2nd coat wet and drying. When dry the color matches pretty good. Im curious to see what the sealer does.


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## mudslingr

I like it. Looks good chris ! :thumbsup:


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## Philma Crevices

chris said:


> 2nd coat wet and drying. When dry the color matches pretty good. Im curious to see what the sealer does.


 Is that smooth or a skip?


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## chris

Its a smoother skip, I skimmed the 1rst coat fairly smooth then did a full coverage tex over top.


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## chris

Here is the 2nd coat once dried. I will seal it in the next day or so


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## mudslingr

chris said:


> 2nd coat wet and drying. When dry the color matches pretty good. Im curious to see what the sealer does.


Had a brain fart and didn't see this. I thought that was the finished product.:blink: Always liked the wet look !


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## chris

I too like the wet look:yes:. I noticed after the 1rst coat had dried that when I "lightly" scraped some boogs that it "slightly" changed the color, then put on the 2nd with some "holidays" and small lap marks and noticed another effect:thumbsup: Im thinking if I changed tones it would even be more dramatic. We will see once the sealer is troweled on, the skuffing of the trowel on the dry surface while sealing should add some luster as well


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## chris

Some extreme close ups


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## Nick Harmon

chris said:


> Here is the 2nd coat once dried. I will seal it in the next day or so


 I'm curious if you had/have problems with the sealer cracking in heavy areas. Make sure to pull that sealer pretty tight but watch for pulling the mud off because When the sealer saturates the surface the mud becomes soft again. The sealer is what makes it all come together. You may want to try using a plastic 6" knife on sealer coat (they have more flex.) The photos will never do it justice. Looks great! 
Also in one picture you are leaving a break line around the entire Nicho on the bull nose. I'd be careful of this on large amounts of footage because it might show up, and on the second coat especially. With bullnose, always finish corners as one surface. Seems picky but it's very important. Awhile back a friend finished a whole house like this and the owner didn't like break lines around all the window returns. Like all spreadable mediums, technique is key. Very impressive work.


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## chris

I tried a small section with sealer last night and it looks real good. This fireplace is a cut up little sucker 8 sticks bullnose and maybe 90 sq.ft of drywall:blink:. I should get it finished up today


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