# Staple Guns



## wrenchmonkey4

Hey guys, this is in regards to MACHINEMUDS youtube video where he installs metal bead with a staple gun. What type of stapler do you guys use? ie, Bostitch, Senco, Paslode, Porter Cable etc. and what model?
In addition to drywall tool parts I stock O-Ring kits and would love to know whats popular out there to make sure I have them as I primarily cater to the drywall/lath/plaster industry.:help:


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## PrecisionTaping

Well I hardly ever use a stapler because truthfully I find steel beads to be the most disgusting thing in the world.
So the only time I use a stapler is to staple my little plastic trim-tex base adapter an 1" from the floor.
Then regardless of what bead I use, Trim-Tex Mudset or paper bead, there are no staples involved.
So I use this.


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## thefinisher

We did have one of our finishing crews use a staple gun that shot some 1 1/2" staples I believe. Not sure what brand though. We haven't used them in a while but if we do again I will look to see what gun they use.


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## wrenchmonkey4

PrecisionTaping said:


> Well I hardly ever use a stapler because truthfully I find steel beads to be the most disgusting thing in the world.
> So the only time I use a stapler is to staple my little plastic trim-tex base adapter an 1" from the floor.
> Then regardless of what bead I use, Trim-Tex Mudset or paper bead, there are no staples involved.
> So I use this.
> View attachment 5338


Yeah the drywall house i used to work for sold tons of arrow t-50 staplers
Most staplers i fix are wide crown for lath guys


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## chris

I have used most all brands you list but right now Im using Hitachi. Its only shot a couple boxes so dont know how it lasts. I also have 2 Bostichs and a Grip rite. The older bostich. worked for 2 years:thumbsup:, then Grip rite lasted 6 months, 2nd bostich lasted 6 months and now I am using Hitachi. Before that it was a mix of senco porter cable, the older ones held up better


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## SlimPickins

I have a Bostitch, but that doesn't mean that I prefer it. I've had it for eons. The only problem with it is that it takes 7/32" staples when all the other crown staplers take 1/4". If I want solid performance, I have to use Bostitch staples.

As far as air nailers goes.....I prefer Max over anything else. Their framing nailer was so exceptional that I bought an 18 ga finish nailer, and will be getting a 23 ga headless pin nailer here shortly.:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Well I hardly ever use a stapler because truthfully I find steel beads to be the most disgusting thing in the world.
> So the only time I use a stapler is to staple my little plastic trim-tex base adapter an 1" from the floor.
> Then regardless of what bead I use, Trim-Tex Mudset or paper bead, there are no staples involved.
> So I use this.
> Are you running around putting your pedestals on first, then the bead:blink:, or do you install the bead and pedestal at the same time, then secure the pedestal with staples.??????? just wondering:yes:
> 
> Sorry wrenchmonkey, we love to go off topic:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

thefinisher said:


> We did have one of our finishing crews use a staple gun that shot some 1 1/2" staples I believe. Not sure what brand though. We haven't used them in a while but if we do again I will look to see what gun they use.


Why inch and a half staples:blink:

You merely half to fasten the bead to the drywall, not good to fasten to the wood:yes:


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## wrenchmonkey4

chris said:


> I have used most all brands you list but right now Im using Hitachi. Its only shot a couple boxes so dont know how it lasts. I also have 2 Bostichs and a Grip rite. The older bostich. worked for 2 years:thumbsup:, then Grip rite lasted 6 months, 2nd bostich lasted 6 months and now I am using Hitachi. Before that it was a mix of senco porter cable, the older ones held up better


The older tools although a lot heavier are the best:yes:


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## Kiwiman

I use a "Rapid" brand stapler (similar to PT's pic) with 6mm staples....compact and super easy to fire, my bostich one is cumbersome and way too hard to fire.
Edit - Sorry, I just had a 2nd look at PT's pick and it's nothing like my Rapid stapler....I was thinking of the Bostich when I said it.


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## gazman

This is my Bostich, it is old enough to vote but still punches staples through our metal bead.:yes:


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## thefinisher

2buckcanuck said:


> Why inch and a half staples:blink:
> 
> You merely half to fasten the bead to the drywall, not good to fasten to the wood:yes:


That is just what they preferred and we didn't have to supply the staple so we didn't complain. Either way we never had a problem with cracking etc....


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Why inch and a half staples:blink:
> 
> You merely half to fasten the bead to the drywall, not good to fasten to the wood:yes:


:confused1: 

You're going to have to explain this one to me.....


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## chris

we use 1 1/4" 1/4"crown. We hit wood:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> :confused1:
> 
> You're going to have to explain this one to me.....


Or joe from trim-tex can explain, it's one of his recommendations when using staples:yes:

And I have heard it before also, If you think about it, your driving a fastener into wood. So lets now talk about why screws will pop, it falls under the same principles......

Joe help me


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## mudslingr

2buckcanuck said:


> Or joe from trim-tex can explain, it's one of his recommendations when using staples:yes:
> 
> And I have heard it before also, If you think about it, your driving a fastener into wood. So lets now talk about why screws will pop, it falls under the same principles......
> 
> Joe help me


Does seem to make sense 2buck. But then again,we find old and new clinched metal bead with no fasteners cracking all the time. Don't we !:yes: ?
I prefer to hit the wood. Especially on arches when using vinyl.


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## thefinisher

chris said:


> we use 1 1/4" 1/4"crown. We hit wood:yes:


Yep they definitely hit wood! God they would put a bunch of staple in it too lol. Definitely secures it better than nails do thats for sure.


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## DLSdrywall

I always use staples, i use a compressor and a bostich stapler, i find it very important to fasten the bead to the drywall for the simple reason if it's hit at all it will crack. Ecspecially around here because the framing is ohh so good :whistling2:


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> Are you running around putting your pedestals on first, then the bead:blink:, or do you install the bead and pedestal at the same time, then secure the pedestal with staples.??????? just wondering:yes:


Oh boy....here we go...
No, 2buck, I put all my little base adapters on first, then go around doing all my bead....
Please...tell me what it is I'm doing wrong...:whistling2:


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Or joe from trim-tex can explain, it's one of his recommendations when using staples:yes:
> 
> And I have heard it before also, If you think about it, your driving a fastener into wood. So lets now talk about why screws will pop, it falls under the same principles......
> 
> Joe help me


I guess my method is a little different from most traditional c-bead applications (although I know there are a few others on here who do it the way I do). Metal bead, LOTS of staples, glass tape (oh no!!!), hot mud w/ glue. I'm fastened to wood and rock, and it's f***ing bomber:thumbsup:

Wood shrinks, yes. I think screw pops have more going on than just that though.....:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Oh boy....here we go...
> No, 2buck, I put all my little base adapters on first, then go around doing all my bead....
> Please...tell me what it is I'm doing wrong...:whistling2:


Nay, you wouldn't listen.
But you go a head and make a video, and show us how it's done:thumbup::thumbup:


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> Nay, you wouldn't listen.
> But you go a head and make a video, and show us how it's done:thumbup::thumbup:


When have I not listen to you!?
Other than pre-sanding! lol.
And that's just preference. I don't actually think there's anything wrong with it. I just prefer not to do it.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Nay, you wouldn't listen.
> But you go a head and make a video, and show us how it's done:thumbup::thumbup:


Who makes the transitions that go on _over _the bead?


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## harvey randall

*transitions*

exrerior transition caps-:blink:. wouldnt that mean the painter would have to bring in a wheel barrow full of caulk- for prep ?:furious:. in sure im missin sumpen 2buckinch:. would you be so kind as to elucidate. (found that word on" your dictionary" on web. thats a good one huh.


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## Mudslinger

PrecisionTaping said:


> Oh boy....here we go...
> No, 2buck, I put all my little base adapters on first, then go around doing all my bead....
> Please...tell me what it is I'm doing wrong...:whistling2:


2 bucks probably trying to tell you to put them both on when your there. If your installing bead with mud just put the adapters on with mud, then you can easily adjust them while your there. I've never had a problem doing it this way.


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## chris

I dont use the long ones on plastic bead, it blows thru to easy, I know you can adjust depth.We use a small handheld with jt21 stapels and glue on plastic bead. We dont hit wood unless some creative nailing is needed. Metal bead ( clinch on) gets the long stapels that hit wood. That to me is still the fastest way to install, not finish, just install. Arches sometimes will need a nail here or there but we glue and short stapel them as well. Steel studs we use 5/8 stapels and gun, not as much anymore but that was our way for quite a while. We have gotten better at the tape on beads and they finish easier so if there aint a whole sh1tload of bead we prefer that method.


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## SlimPickins

harvey randall said:


> exrerior transition caps-:blink:. wouldnt that mean the painter would have to bring in a wheel barrow full of caulk- for prep ?:furious:. in sure im missin sumpen 2buckinch:. would you be so kind as to elucidate. (found that word on" your dictionary" on web. thats a good one huh.


I carry MY caulk around in a wheelbarrow:whistling2:

Besides, who gives a rats a$$ about the painter?


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Who makes the transitions that go on _over _the bead?










Pedestals:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> When have I not listen to you!?
> Other than pre-sanding! lol.
> And that's just preference. I don't actually think there's anything wrong with it. I just prefer not to do it.


All day long this comment had me going:blink:

To say rough sanding is ridiculous, as you once stated before, and now just a preference, is like a taper who says he don't need to check his work with a light, which makes me do this face:blink:, and it's the exact same face 2bjr made, when I told him you guys don't rough sand nothing:blink:

Back to picking on Moose Boy


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## icerock drywall

wrenchmonkey4 said:


> Hey guys, this is in regards to MACHINEMUDS youtube video where he installs metal bead with a staple gun. What type of stapler do you guys use? ie, Bostitch, Senco, Paslode, Porter Cable etc. and what model?
> In addition to drywall tool parts I stock O-Ring kits and would love to know whats popular out there to make sure I have them as I primarily cater to the drywall/lath/plaster industry.:help:


 I got my gun from trim- tex
but I use mesh most of the time unless they want bull corners


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Pedestals:thumbup:


Yeah, but those go under the bead. I tried a quick search last night but I can't find who makes the ones that go over the bull. Oh wait....I just remembered! arty::clap:

http://www.phillipsmfg.com/products/vbt/bull_corn.htm#V390


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## Kiwiman

SlimPickins said:


> Who makes the transitions that go on _over _the bead?


These are the ones I use Slim http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/...onversions/squarezit-bullnose-conversion.html
I used to use the T/Tex ones but the Squarezit are much easier, just be careful getting them straight (vertically).


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## SlimPickins

Kiwiman said:


> These are the ones I use Slim http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/...onversions/squarezit-bullnose-conversion.html
> I used to use the T/Tex ones but the Squarezit are much easier, just be careful getting them straight (vertically).


Those DO look tricky. I haven't installed base transitions in years, but when I did, a carpenters speed square was the ticket:thumbsup:

The ones in the link I posted are pretty easy too, after the bead is on just run around stick them on. The ones that go on first bite the big one to install, but they don't stand out from the wall as far and make the trimmer's job easier.

But who gives a rat's a$$ about the trimmer?


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> All day long this comment had me going:blink:
> 
> To say rough sanding is ridiculous, as you once stated before, and now just a preference


Exactly! See! I'm glad you understand. :yes:
I prefer not to pre-sand because I think it's ridiculous.
Prefer = Preference


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Exactly! See! I'm glad you understand. :yes:
> I prefer not to pre-sand because I think it's ridiculous.
> Prefer = Preference


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


>


I just like to bug ya


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## ns005

You guys will probably talk crap, but I hand staple all of my bead on with a duo-fast stapler and duo-fast 5010-D 5/16" staples. Takes a bit longer, but there's no hoses to drag around. I also agree with not going into the wood. I use mostly trim tex vinyl and try to stay away from metal beads.


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## ns005

Slim I have used those stick on corners a lot when I used to work for a guy. I've spent more time going back and glueing, hot mudding, and retexturing them back in than I have ever saved. They work good in theory, but people, mostly trim carpenters, always seem to kick a few off in every house. Worth the extra time for me to measure, cut and staple the adapters on. I don't like going back and doing repairs.


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## DLSdrywall

I usually ask the GC how far he wants the transition up saves headaches ie..flooring..size of trim. Then i install all my transitions first then bead it out. i staple them as i put them up. SOmething i do i get a piece of 2X4 put drywall on both sides, screw that 2x4 to my compound saw and use my compound to cut my round and chamfers


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## SlimPickins

ns005 said:


> Slim I have used those stick on corners a lot when I used to work for a guy. I've spent more time going back and glueing, hot mudding, and retexturing them back in than I have ever saved. They work good in theory, but people, mostly trim carpenters, always seem to kick a few off in every house. Worth the extra time for me to measure, cut and staple the adapters on. I don't like going back and doing repairs.


Like I said, it's been years since I've had to put any on, but when I did, it was always spray glue, square-up, and staple. Never had anyone ask me to go back and re-do anything.....but then again, I was subbing for a larger taping outfit and only hanging board and beads. Finishing call-backs were his arena....If they all fell off, too bad for him.....he called out the details :laughing:

I hung some bullnose windows recently, but all my clients want square corners. I think bullnose is.........well, it doesn't matter what I think of it, my clients like square corners:thumbsup:


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## wrenchmonkey4

icerock drywall said:


> I got my gun from trim- tex
> but I use mesh most of the time unless they want bull corners


What model is it? Is it the Duo-Fast one in the Trim-Tex video? pneumatic or mechanical? I asked in that thread and haven't gotten a response


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## Philma Crevices

For metal beads I would only use an air stapler... Vinyl I'll use a hammer tacker, same type staples as the standard staplers.

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...ords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-NA-_-NA


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## Trim-Tex

All three Duo Fast staple guns do a fantastic job! They are perfect for Vinyl beads with more than enough power for metal beads too. The CS500 hand stapler has adjustable power wheel that tightens the firing spring.
Same day shipping from our E Store.

The key feature is our super sharp 1/2" Divergent Staples that twist a bit and that doubles the holding power.

Joe


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## Philma Crevices

Trim-Tex said:


> The key feature is our super sharp 1/2" Divergent Staples that twist a bit and that doubles the holding power.
> 
> Joe


I'll have to check those out


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## sdrdrywall

Those staples make all the difference. They lock the bead down tight


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## Philma Crevices

sdrdrywall said:


> Those staples make all the difference. They lock the bead down tight


 Will any stapler that shoot's 1/2" take em without jamming? Those staplers by TT are a bit pricey haha, and I love my hammer tackers, alot more speedy than trigger operated ones


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## sdrdrywall

Im not sure ill try it when i get home and let you know i use there stapler so ill check


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## wrenchmonkey4

Trim-Tex said:


> All three Duo Fast staple guns do a fantastic job! They are perfect for Vinyl beads with more than enough power for metal beads too. The CS500 hand stapler has adjustable power wheel that tightens the firing spring.
> Same day shipping from our E Store.
> 
> The key feature is our super sharp 1/2" Divergent Staples that twist a bit and that doubles the holding power.
> 
> Joe


(tapping foot) still waiting on model #'s on the duofast pnuenatics Joe....


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## Trim-Tex

Duo Fast staples are different width than most other brands. The pricing is competitive when you buy full or half case quantities. Any Gypsum Supply Yard/Drywall supplier can get them at good prices all you have to do is ask.

The Pnuematic gun is super light weight and more durable than a V8 Holden 6.2L


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