# What is your taping process??



## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

There may be a thread on this but I just want to know what your guys process is with taping?? My style and process has changed many of times but I do this because it works for me. 

Tape butts, then flats(depending how big the job may do a few rooms or the whole job), the I thin down my taping mud a little for my angles and flush with a 2.5 tin flusher. Coat 2 sides of the three way. I put on my bead last. Also coat screws with a 4"

Coat flats with 10" box, coat butts and bead with a 10" knife. Do screws with a 5"

Coat angles with a 3.5 mechanical flusher. Coat 3 ways

Coat flats with 12" box, coat butts and bead with 12" knife, do screws with 6"

Do a look over, coat bead and butts, any high shoulders. Everything with a 12". 

Pole sand, go aroun with a light and sponge. 

I take 5 days to do a job. 

Please no bashin other guys methods.


----------



## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Grab a large tim horton coffeeTape butt , then flat 
Do angle , flush with 3,5 columbia head
Install bead , fill it and then do screw with 4 inch knive
Install straight flex 


Day 2 
Grab a large tim horton coffee
do my flat with columbia boxes ( set num1)

Fill corner bead
Then butt joint with boxes ( at 0) 
Columbia nailspotter my screws and straight flex




Day 3 


Grab a large tim horton coffee
Rapid sanding on butt, flat, bead
12 in columbia boxes ( set at number 3) 
Corner bead , butt joint and straight flex by hand


Day 4 
Grab large tim horton cofee !! 
Sand and do check up with 300 watt lamp


----------



## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

I forgot !!! Day 3 do my angle with corner box and 2.5 columbia angle head !


----------



## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

I also use a 300 watt bulb. Depending on the job I do use nail spotters as well. If it is a small job I use hot mud but this is my process on an average house


----------



## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Day 1
Tape butt then flat one room at a time. Go back run angles roll/ plow DM 2.5 one floor at a time. 
Hit screws with a small amount of mud on a six. 
Stik bead (beads can be stuck on day 1 or2 depending on house size)

Day 2 
Go sand last house

Day 3 
8" box 
Run beads 10" knife or 11" trowel 
Run butts 10". 
Hit screws with a little more mud on a six.

Day 4 
Skim sand
12" box
Run beads 10" knife 
Run butts 12" knife. 
Hit screws with even more mud on my six.
Angle box 3.5 NStar

Day 5
Touch up cross overs
Go tape another house 

Day 6 
Power sand seams/butts/beads/screws.
Pole angles
Detail with sanding sponge and light
Clean floors 
Get paid:thumbsup:

The days can vary depending on house size


----------



## Forced (Mar 19, 2012)

day one:

-fix crappy boarding, prep board for taping. (broken board, loose paper...etc..) and prefill all butt joints with 90 minute fast set, and whatever else needs prefilling.
-tape all angles and run 2.5" flusher. Started doing this recently to prevent butt joint tapes from tearing off from the flusher
-tape butts, tape flats.
-cut and apply beads, with beadbox and sponge... or paint brush and sponge, depending on amount of bead.
- hit screws.

day two:

-run 10" box
-load butts and beads.
-hit screws and coat 2 sides of three ways.

Day three:

-rough sand everything.
- run 12" box
- polish butts and beads
- run angles
- hit screws and touch up three ways-- coat 3rd side..
- fix any flusher marks that may have cut through the flats

day four:

- pole sand everything 
- 300 bulb light check with fine/ultra fine sponge.
- grab case of beer.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

I run 7 10 and 12

thats it not giving my secrets away:yes:


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I gotta have a cup of coffee,,, I'll get some tape on ,,,sometime today ,,, maybe if ,,,, no screw it I'm gone fishin'


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Seriously,,, I like having all the bead work in place before I run tape, Next will be what tool am I going to use ,, small jobs I run tape out with my banjo, big job I'll break out the tube. If I am going to run the tube,, I prefer to tape all the butt joints and any seams and angle 4 ft or less in lenght , by either hand taping or using a banjo. once that is done I can then run the bazooka over the long runs, This will help me by not having to make alot of cuts with the bazooka. Plus I can apply heavier mud on the more critical joints without having to prefill. This system works great with a couple of extra hands that now how to tape properly. After all tape is on I first coat all the bead work including screw heads. then box first coat with 7 inch. and the rest of the story is history. btw angles are last to run when taping, never run the angles first when taping.


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

sorry having trouble typing on quick reply, not sure why . I'll try and edit later to make it easier to read .


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

betterdrywall said:


> Seriously,,, I like having all the bead work in place before I run tape,
> 
> btw angles are last to run when taping, never run the angles first when taping.


And why in your opinion should the angles never be run first when taping?

I've actually heard many tapers say never to have the bead on first....


----------



## Forced (Mar 19, 2012)

you can run angles first with no problems at all... I use to allways run angles last because that was how I was taught... I have run angles first now for the last 50 jobs and have had no problems what-so-ever... none! However, over the years I have had many problems running the angles last ... due to the flusher ripping off the butt joint tapes...
oh... and I allways put beads on after everything is taped... for the same reasons stated above, my flusher could knock the beads off, or out of position.... and I hate doing things twice...lol

edit... I use a supertaper and put tapes on by hand...


----------



## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm taping angles first on my next job. pulling those tapes off with the flusher is a pain in the a$$!


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Forced said:


> you can run angles first with no problems at all... I use to allways run angles last because that was how I was taught... I have run angles first now for the last 50 jobs and have had no problems what-so-ever... none! However, over the years I have had many problems running the angles last ... due to the flusher ripping off the butt joint tapes...
> oh... and I allways put beads on after everything is taped... for the same reasons stated above, my flusher could knock the beads off, or out of position.... and I hate doing things twice...lol
> 
> edit... I use a supertaper and put tapes on by hand...





carpentaper said:


> i'm taping angles first on my next job. pulling those tapes off with the flusher is a pain in the a$$!


Thank you and Thank you!
I've been running my angle tapes first for almost 3 years now. Not only do I find it way easier! But it has never given me a single problem!
Never. In my opinion it's the best way to go if you're running flushers or angle heads. I've said it before and I'll say it again.
Paper over laps paper. It makes absolutely no difference in which order it goes on the wall! None! 
If you're stuck doing it the way you were taught by someone who was stuck doing it the way they were taught 50 years ago, well guess what? You're out dated my friend. My ways faster and better, because I developed what works for me. Not somebody else.


----------



## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I run my angles last and have never had an issue with my angle head or flushers tearing off my tapes, I'm guessing its cause I use fibafuse, paper tape kinda sucks:whistling2:


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Thank you and Thank you!
> I've been running my angle tapes first for almost 3 years now. Not only do I find it way easier! But it has never given me a single problem!
> Never. In my opinion it's the best way to go if you're running flushers or angle heads. I've said it before and I'll say it again.
> Paper over laps paper. It makes absolutely no difference in which order it goes on the wall! None!
> If you're stuck doing it the way you were taught by someone who was stuck doing it the way they were taught 50 years ago, well guess what? You're out dated my friend. My ways faster and better, because I developed what works for me. Not somebody else.



Well PT I guess I am old and out dated. I tape my flats first then run my angles. The reason, You get a straighter line down your angle when the rebate is filled.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> Well PT I guess I am old and out dated. I tape my flats first then run my angles. The reason, You get a straighter line down your angle when the rebate is filled.


Me too, Use real mud, Hotmud to tape flats with and theres no problem. :thumbsup:

Oh wait, I forgot your sheetrock easy sand is a bit soft and dura bond isnt so good either, We a bit lucky with our hotmuds, Its good stuff.


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Hmm, well, what can I say? except I still see no productive value taping agnles first. I have never had a serious issue with ripping tape while running angles. Fact is angles are way easy to run, less problems with drytime. butts flats and bead are priority for first coat.I would prefer to wait untill after the first box coat even if I have to let joints dry for a day, Then run the angles.


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Angles seal the seams that run into the corners. No rules to drywall at all,, just common sense.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

gazman said:


> Well PT I guess I am old and out dated. I tape my flats first then run my angles. The reason, You get a straighter line down your angle when the rebate is filled.


Sorry Gazman, I was trying to state that anyone who doesn't tape their angles first is old and out dated. Just people who haven't developed their own style of taping. People who were taught a certain way and are too naive or closed minded to try anything different. Regardless of how anybody tapes, there are other ways out there other than how you were taught.



betterdrywall said:


> Hmm, well, what can I say? except I still see no productive value taping agnles first. I have never had a serious issue with ripping tape while running angles. Fact is angles are way easy to run, less problems with drytime. butts flats and bead are priority for first coat.I would prefer to wait untill after the first box coat even if I have to let joints dry for a day, Then run the angles.


Wait until the first box coat before taping your angles?....
Weird...I don't know.. As long as you have a way that works for you.
I always pump out my corners first because they take a little longer to dry. I just make sure to get all my tapes on the first day. Very rarely is there a house I encounter where we can't get all the tapes on. Just works for me.



betterdrywall said:


> Angles seal the seams that run into the corners. No rules to drywall at all,, just common sense.


Flats seal the seams that run into the angles. No rules to drywall at all,, just common sense. :whistling2:


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Weird???How so, I belive you the one that is talking Old Outdated and not willing to try New????I belive that was some of what your overall message is about? Well all I can say is Try something New,, Get the butts andd flats taped , Then run a first coat with a 7 inch box. wait untill completely dry, Then see how you like running angles.. Not making a fuss. it's only drywall. so give it a try ,


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

betterdrywall said:


> Weird???How so, I belive you the one that is talking Old Outdated and not willing to try New????I belive that was some of what your overall message is about? Well all I can say is Try something New,, Get the butts andd flats taped , Then run a first coat with a 7 inch box. wait untill completely dry, Then see how you like running angles.. Not making a fuss. it's only drywall. so give it a try ,


lol! I have tried something new. Taping my angles first. :thumbsup::yes:
I used to always do butts, flats then angles, like the majority of people out there. But then my eyes were opened! lol. And I've tried every single style of taping under the the sun.
So you run a coat with a 7"? Then what a 10" and a 12"?


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Sorry to break the news, but running angles first is not a New method, Just an Old and outdated method . Yes I run a 7 on the first coat. Then 10, if customer wants to pay the extra cost I will run a 12. If not touchup and texture.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> lol! I have tried something new. Taping my angles first. :thumbsup::yes:
> I used to always do butts, flats then angles, like the majority of people out there. But then my eyes were opened! lol. And I've tried every single style of taping under the the sun.
> So you run a coat with a 7"? Then what a 10" and a 12"?


i believe the system Betterdrywall is talking about (which has been discussed before) is having the beads and flats coated first, then running your angle tapes on the second or third day, depending on the size of job, your speed, drying time etc........

It's a excellent system for a one man crew, and it has it's pros and cons. But it's the one I like best. If I remember right, Dsjohn and the captain liked this system also,,,, so maybe it's a system us old farts like:whistling2:

If we are gunning for total tape out of a house, we go angles first then flats. Room by room or floor by floor. We don't tape out the whole house with angles/internals , then drop back to do the flats, it's too time consuming.

My saying is...... Find a system and stick to it, but change the system if you must..................... meaning.....

Your always going to finish your flats, beads, butts and sometimes your screws in the same way, but how you get there may constantly change:yes:


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

betterdrywall said:


> Sorry to break the news, but running angles first is not a New method, Just an Old and outdated method . Yes I run a 7 on the first coat. Then 10, if customer wants to pay the extra cost I will run a 12. If not touchup and texture.


It's new to me :yes:
Well, a couple years amyways. But I love it. 



2buckcanuck said:


> i believe the system Betterdrywall is talking about (which has been discussed before) is having the beads and flats coated first, then running your angle tapes on the second or third day, depending on the size of job, your speed, drying time etc........
> 
> It's a excellent system for a one man crew, and it has it's pros and cons. But it's the one I like best. If I remember right, Dsjohn and the captain liked this system also,,,, so maybe it's a system us old farts like:whistling2:
> 
> ...


Well said 2buck, well said. Same thing here. Room by room, or floor by floor. Quick and easy.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> Weird???How so, I belive you the one that is talking Old Outdated and not willing to try New????I belive that was some of what your overall message is about? Well all I can say is Try something New,, Get the butts andd flats taped , Then run a first coat with a 7 inch box. wait untill completely dry, Then see how you like running angles.. Not making a fuss. it's only drywall. so give it a try ,


 Makes for a nice straight angle.:yes:


----------



## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

Running angles first we use to that 20 years ago 
Nothing new there lol
Angles first or last don't mater as long your comfortable with it
I remember running 12 rolls in 8 hr
Just wOndering if I can still due it lol


----------



## Forced (Mar 19, 2012)

hmmm... I have never thought of taping the angles after first coat... probably because angles generally take the longest to dry around here... I may try that.... 

actually I probably wont.... I hate taping the most and just want to get it out of the way all in one day...lol


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

It was just this comment that threw me off
" btw angles are last to run when taping, never run the angles first when taping."
I thought maybe there was a specific reason behind why you were saying that which I would have liked to know. But I guess not.
It's just "you" don't do it that way. lol

I was just simply trying to get across there's nothing wrong with doing it that way.


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Forced said:


> hmmm... I have never thought of taping the angles after first coat... probably because angles generally take the longest to dry around here... I may try that....
> 
> actually I probably wont.... I hate taping the most and just want to get it out of the way all in one day...lol


The only time I have trouble with drying is during the colder days, We don't get bad winters around here . I say this and next winter will be Horrible.


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> It was just this comment that threw me off
> " btw angles are last to run when taping, never run the angles first when taping."
> I thought maybe there was a specific reason behind why you were saying that which I would have liked to know. But I guess not.
> It's just "you" don't do it that way. lol
> ...


You are correct,There is no set of rules at all when it come to drywall. Only issue that matters the most is the final product. 
My comment?well there is plenty of reasons all positive for applying the angles last. Smoother easier to run ,especially after a first coat on butts and flats. Increase in speed or production , concentrating on the more critical areas first. Just a few examples.

BTW where could I find a good pond pump to aireate the water? and at a decent price? I'll do a search.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

betterdrywall said:


> You are correct,There is no set of rules at all when it come to drywall. Only issue that matters the most is the final product.
> My comment?well there is plenty of reasons all positive for applying the angles last. Smoother easier to run ,especially after a first coat on butts and flats. Increase in speed or production , concentrating on the more critical areas first. Just a few examples.
> 
> BTW where could I find a good pond pump to aireate the water? and at a decent price? I'll do a search.


Ya I guess they both have their ups and downs. I've never tried it like you do it. After your coat and beads. Could look into it.

And here, should find what you're looking for on here.
They have good prices and shipping.
http://www.monstergardens.com/hydroponics/air-pumps.html


----------



## bmedra9 (Apr 7, 2012)

*my method to madness*

prefill with liteweight-tape butts then flats then angles with combo flusher
off angle bead, 90 bead, coat flats with 10 box wipe with 12" blue steel knife, split butts with 10" box, spot screws 5", coat bead with 8" knife(only use no coat bead) day 2 run 3" angle head pick corners,spot screws 5",12" box flats wipe with 14" knife, skim butts with 14" blue steel knife,skim bead with 10" knife,pick corners opposite way spot screws with 6" knife, last day sand 150 grit sand paper sponge with 500 watt bulb


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Sponge with 500 watt hologen :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

bmedra9 said:


> prefill with liteweight-tape butts then flats then angles with combo flusher
> off angle bead, 90 bead, coat flats with 10 box wipe with 12" blue steel knife, split butts with 10" box, spot screws 5", coat bead with 8" knife(only use no coat bead) day 2 run 3" angle head pick corners,spot screws 5",12" box flats wipe with 14" knife, skim butts with 14" blue steel knife,skim bead with 10" knife,pick corners opposite way spot screws with 6" knife, last day sand 150 grit sand paper sponge with 500 watt bulb



Well all I can say is 95% if my jobs there would
Be no way in hell I would be able to tape and coat in one day. I would need a 5 man crew and nOt only me and one other guy knowing what we are doing


----------



## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Ok you confusing me all .... If i get it right : 
• day 1st : 
Tape butt and flat 
Install bead and fill it 
1st Pass with flatboxes 10
Screw 


• day 2 
Tape angle 
2 second pass with flat box 12
Bead ans screw 


• day 3 
Do angle with cornerbox angle head
Bead and screw


• day 4 
Sanding 




Is it what you guys mean ?


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

machinemud said:


> Ok you confusing me all .... If i get it right :
> • day 1st :
> Tape butt and flat
> Install bead and fill it
> ...


In a nut shell, sort of, I don't see to many guys doing jobs that are 7,000 sq and over in 4 days,,, if your a one man crew.

You could divide your 1st day into 2 days. Jut getting the pre-fill, flat tapes and beads on (with a 1/2 coat) is a good day for one guy. Main thing I find if your a one man show is the set up, it eats a lot of your time. Find it's best to get any scaffold builds or set ups done the 1st day, water buckets filled,,,, you know the routine. If you can get 1st coat on screws ,,,,,bonus:yes:

Second day coat all beads again, and box flats, hit middle of butts buy hand, push screws again.... hell get finish coat on screws if you can,,, double up on them

Third day install angle tapes/internals, then push those dam screws again if you didn't day before......

As you can tell, I hate screws, the Aussies don't know how lucky they are. If you don't have a nail spotter machine, look into getting one. Their a touch more in sanding, but worth it if your a one man show:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I don't have a system, except that I put tape on before I top it.

I was thinking about my lack of a system today...it seems like I always have to improvise. Lately I've been using Fiba-fuse instead of glass, for no other reason than it sits flatter and doesn't leave chatter if you hit it tight. 

All I know is that I show up with set muds that cover the range of 5-90 minutes and go after the nastiest deepest stuff first. Angles get taped when it's convenient to the process...sometimes before top coat, sometimes after. I usually try to tape angles right before top coat with the same batch of 90 (remember, I do lots of small jobs), that way I'm just about set up by the time I'm done and cleaned up, and can whip a quick batch of faster mud to fill anything that needs it, and then on to skim coat.

On the bigger jobs, I tape everything before top coat, seems to be most efficient for me.

As if my opinion matters.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Hang lids. Hang wet areas. Sheet the rest of the house, completing each room as we go, larger rooms first.

Tape buts then flats ceilings first then walls with Homax and hot mud. 

Run Tapepro box with reducer plate using AP. 

Install bead, and coat with hot mud. Run 7" TT. 

Coat bead with AP.

Tape internals with DB :lol::lol::lol: & 3.5" Northstar. 

Run 10" TT.

Top bead.

Measure cornice with laser measurer.

Top internals with 2.5" bonehead and mud runner.

Cut and install cornice.

Sand, clean up.

Do the paper work.


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

no matter what house i do i have to get the taping out of the way first. I hate taping then taping again the second day.

Day 1 prefill, tape flats, tape angles, do beads

Day2 run 10"box do screws, handwork, 2nd coat on beads

Day 3 rough sand, Box 12", angles, skim beads, finish screws

Day 4 sand 150 grit check out with 300 watt.

this is based on a basic 6000-8000 sq ft home


----------



## Shivers20 (May 21, 2012)

Day 1

Prefill with 20min 
Tape flats, butts, angles with banjo (AP mud)
1st coat screws w/ four inch (20min)
1st coat flats & butts (AP mud)
1st coat angles & bead (20min)
2nd coat screws w/ four inch (AP mud)
2nd coat flats, butts & bead (AP mud)
2nd coat angles (one-side only) (Mid-weight mud)

Day 2
2nd coat angles (other side) (Mid-weight mud)
3rd coat screws w/ five inch (Mid-weight mud)
3rd coat flats, butts & bead (Mid-weight mud)

Day 3
Skim it all
Sand w/ 500w halogen


----------



## Eva Gomes (Jul 2, 2012)

*What is your taping process*

Well PT I guess I am old and out dated. I tape my Moisture meters flats first then run my angles. The reason, You get a straighter line down your angle when the rebate is filled.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Eva Gomes said:


> Well PT I guess I am old and out dated. I tape my Moisture meters flats first then run my angles. The reason, You get a straighter line down your angle when the rebate is filled.


Hey Mate whats the go? First post and your trying to flog off moisture meters, read the rules eh.


----------



## Irishpride84 (Jul 10, 2012)

that sounds really good im calling out tomorrow


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Day1:

Show up, look around, go home and look at p0rn.

Day 2: 

Show up, look around, go home and look at p0rn.

Day 3:

Show up, look around, call builder and ask where the insulators are. Go look at p0rn.

Day 4:

Show up, ask insulators when they'll be done, go look at p0rn.

Day 5: Mask, Hang, Tape, Top, Skim, clean up, crack windows, turn on fan, go home and look at p0rn.

Day 6:

Show up, re-open windows, turn fan back on, call builder and tell him someone shut the windows, heat, and fan off. Go home and look at p0rn.

Day 7: Sand, Touch-up, texture, clean up, go home and........type and email invoice for $***.xx _*then *_look at p0rn


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bid on a job really high, then sub it out really low:thumbup:

That's what the big Drywall contractors do:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Day1:
> 
> Show up, look around, go home and look at p0rn.
> 
> ...


Wife out of town again Slim:whistling2:


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Bid on a job really high, then sub it out really low:thumbup:
> 
> That's what the big Drywall contractors do:whistling2:


 The D/C with Mexicans !!


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Wife out of town again Slim:whistling2:


Nope


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

PT

I noticed in the very first video that you posted when you first joined the site that you taped and flushed your angles first. I also noticed that your guys, or whoever was wiping the flats having to pick where the flat tape overlapped your already coated angle. Just seems like a bunch of extra work to me.

We tape butts and flats floor by floor. Take a break. By the time we start running angles the flats have dried a bit and shrunk in a little. So we get very little tearing of the flats from the angle head. On occasion we'll get one on a butt here and there, no big deal. Also, if you ease up on the pressure you are putting on the angle head just a bit when you come to a butt, it will 95% of the time just float right over it.

Then we'll stick beads (No-Coat). Main reason we do these last... Properly installed, they don't take much mud, so you really don't want to have to fight with hiding your angle tape. Also, we do mainly bullnose. By putting the angle in before the bead, we can tape to the corner, and then the bead covers it up. One less thing to deal with.:thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> PT
> 
> I noticed in the very first video that you posted when you first joined the site that you taped and flushed your angles first. I also noticed that your guys, or whoever was wiping the flats having to pick where the flat tape overlapped your already coated angle. Just seems like a bunch of extra work to me.
> 
> ...


Ya, there's pros and cons to both I guess.
I just got used to doing it that way. I don't know why. 
That's just how my system goes. I'm not opposed to doing butts and flats first, I did it that way for many years.
I just like to change it up. Keep life entertaining. I'd be super bored if I didn't try different things.
As long as the tapes go on quickly and nice I don't care in what order they go.
And I honestly don't think there's a difference either. Paper over laps paper. It doesn't matter in what order it is.
Anything else is just preference.
You make valid points though.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I just got used to doing it that way.


You can get used to a lot of things, but I've noticed that you've changed how you do a LOT of things since coming on the site. I.E double boxing, banjo, etc, and the list goes on and on.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> You can get used to a lot of things, but I've noticed that you've changed how you do a LOT of things since coming on the site. I.E double boxing, banjo, etc, and the list goes on and on.


Very true! 
I have learnt lots from all you guys!
Now I just need to master my zook and i'll be unstoppable! :yes:


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

you need to put down the homax, and actually USE your taper to master it!:whistling2:


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> you need to put down the homax, and actually USE your taper to master it!:whistling2:


How do you know!?
Maybe I'm practising with one in each hand!
Then I can blow you all away :jester:


----------



## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

fr8train said:


> PT
> 
> I noticed in the very first video that you posted when you first joined the site that you taped and flushed your angles first. I also noticed that your guys, or whoever was wiping the flats having to pick where the flat tape overlapped your already coated angle. Just seems like a bunch of extra work to me.
> 
> ...


 Makes sense to me:thumbsup:


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> Wife out of town again Slim:whistling2:


He might be taking Caz's pills


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Day1:
> 
> Show up, look around, go home and look at p0rn.
> 
> ...


I actually had a First,, this morning,, Super says house will be ready to hang,, hangers show up no insulation at all... Call super and he ask me if my hangers could put up sheetrock while the insulators are blowing insulation,,
A. Do I chit my pants?
B. Do I cry out from the pain of stupidity?
C. Die from laughter??
D. Commit myself to the loony bin?
I know it's my fault for being behind on the job as well.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> I actually had a First,, this morning,, Super says house will be ready to hang,, hangers show up no insulation at all... Call super and he ask me if my hangers could put up sheetrock while the insulators are blowing insulation,,
> A. Do I chit my pants?
> B. Do I cry out from the pain of stupidity?
> C. Die from laughter??
> ...


:laughing:

Sure, they can blow insulation while we're hanging.....they're going to need a lot more insulation though:blink::whistling2:


----------



## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

*jesus take a prayer*



betterdrywall said:


> I actually had a First,, this morning,, Super says house will be ready to hang,, hangers show up no insulation at all... Call super and he ask me if my hangers could put up sheetrock while the insulators are blowing insulation,,
> A. Do I chit my pants?
> B. Do I cry out from the pain of stupidity?
> C. Die from laughter??
> ...


 i like ya right off. your crazy------- idig that


----------



## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Sorry Gazman, I was trying to state that anyone who doesn't tape their angles first is old and out dated. Just people who haven't developed their own style of taping. People who were taught a certain way and are too naive or closed minded to try anything different. Regardless of how anybody tapes, there are other ways out there other than how you were taught.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I always run angles first and I will give two reasons why first I hate how when you do butts flats first the angle head tears the paper tape:furious:
second I dont like dropping back for things when they can be done right then why go back to that room again. If I do my corners first I can finish the room in one shot and also the corners do seem to take the longest to dry. I use a 2 1/2 for glazing and a 3 1/2 for final coat corners always seam nice and straight


----------

