# big gaps between boards



## Waynel

I'm new at drywall hanging...as a pro. I've done plenty of "jobs" for friends, but could take forever hanging and finishing. Not so now...I've got to move quickly. I've got an old house and it would take me a week to replace all the studs that are not plum. So, I've got seam and butt joints with some fairly good sized gaps. Just "mud" in the gaps or is there some trick to cutting the boards to fit the "crooked" studs? I'm really a carpenter who has started his own remodeling business and drywall was never a major part of my work. But with remodeling old homes...I will be doing a lot of it.


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## wnybassman

Durabond is your friend in an old house.


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## M T Buckets Painting

If you don't address the framing issues, you will inherit those same issues with the hanging and finishing process. After finishing, a texture will break up the wall a little to help hide slight waves and humps. Note: Texture will not hide a bad job of finishing. 

If you are going to be involved with the painting, a flat or low sheen paint would be advisable.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Welcome to the forum.


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## cdwoodcox

I have hung jobs where I have had to cut every piece 3 different ways. Measure and cut.


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## Kiwiman

When I whinge about large gaps I cringe when the builder replies with "they are still making plaster aren't they?":furious:
They have a standard to work to and if they don't then why should it come out of my profit....thats why I charge extra if a job is bad enough.


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## moore

cdwoodcox said:


> I have hung jobs where I have had to cut every piece 3 different ways. Measure and cut.


There's your answer Waynel:yes::yes::yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe

boarder left some gaps on a job of mine once


Once


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## SlimPickins

cdwoodcox said:


> I have hung jobs where I have had to cut every piece 3 different ways. Measure and cut.


I just did this last night on a side job for a neighbor....there was a small gap that would have been covered by the wall sheet when that part gets hung, but homeowner asked me to pull it down and recut to be tight:blink: "Yes maam", 3/8 - nuthin' on three sides




Bazooka-Joe said:


> boarder left some gaps on a job of mine once
> 
> 
> Once


:laughing: You must go through a lot of hangers :laughing:

I generally hang everything super tight, but sometimes it can't be avoided (unless you want to pay me 50% more.....well, do ya punk?


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## 2buckcanuck

wnybassman said:


> Durabond is your friend in an old house.


agreed:thumbsup:

Sometimes, when it comes to the super old stuff, you just half to do the best you can with the board, then let the durabond do the miracles

The rules change when it comes to Reno's :yes:


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## Waynel

*Let me clarify on the "gaps" problem*

I just finished putting up all the board, just me and my metal helper "Mr. Lift". You know, my gaps aren't really bad. Nearly all of my seams are tight and there's a few butt joints with some space. My biggest challenges are the corners...that's where the old house takes a mighty lean and if I make a nice straight cut on the board, I get this big ole V just about 4 ft. long to the seam. Today, when I hit a corner, I measured the width starting about six inches down from the top and then the width 6 inches up from the bottom. So...at the top it was 47 3/4 inches and at the bottom is was 47 1/4. So I marked my board at the top and bottom cut a slanted line. It worked out fairly well. How do ya'll make your measurements? From the center of the stud (mid-point on board) to your next stopping point? Do you do two measurements like I did or just measure it in the middle? I could use some help. I've got another 27 boards to put up next week on a remodel. Thanks.


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## moore

''Do you do two measurements like I did''

Yes ! I do.  all the way to the top..all the way to the bottom.


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## 2buckcanuck

Waynel said:


> I just finished putting up all the board, just me and my metal helper "Mr. Lift". You know, my gaps aren't really bad. Nearly all of my seams are tight and there's a few butt joints with some space. My biggest challenges are the corners...that's where the old house takes a mighty lean and if I make a nice straight cut on the board, I get this big ole V just about 4 ft. long to the seam. Today, when I hit a corner, I measured the width starting about six inches down from the top and then the width 6 inches up from the bottom. So...at the top it was 47 3/4 inches and at the bottom is was 47 1/4. So I marked my board at the top and bottom cut a slanted line. It worked out fairly well. How do ya'll make your measurements? From the center of the stud (mid-point on board) to your next stopping point? Do you do two measurements like I did or just measure it in the middle? I could use some help. I've got another 27 boards to put up next week on a remodel. Thanks.


use a scrap piece of board as a square, use a piece that is about 2x4, and put it up to the area your going to rock. It will show you where the gap is going to be, so you can now trim it off the actual sheep your going to screw UP.

And I always took my measures from the middle, till it gets over 3/4's of a inch out of square, then you might half to do top and bottom measures.


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## SlimPickins

Waynel said:


> I just finished putting up all the board, just me and my metal helper "Mr. Lift". You know, my gaps aren't really bad. Nearly all of my seams are tight and there's a few butt joints with some space. My biggest challenges are the corners...that's where the old house takes a mighty lean and if I make a nice straight cut on the board, I get this big ole V just about 4 ft. long to the seam. Today, when I hit a corner, I measured the width starting about six inches down from the top and then the width 6 inches up from the bottom. So...at the top it was 47 3/4 inches and at the bottom is was 47 1/4. So I marked my board at the top and bottom cut a slanted line. It worked out fairly well. How do ya'll make your measurements? From the center of the stud (mid-point on board) to your next stopping point? Do you do two measurements like I did or just measure it in the middle? I could use some help. I've got another 27 boards to put up next week on a remodel. Thanks.


On new construction you can generally take one measurement, but on remodel you need to be prepared to take a lot more numbers. Top and bottom work well enough, until you realize that you have no idea where it's out of square. If, after I hang the first piece and it's atrocious, I'll break out a line laser to establish some semblance of a frame of reference. A framing square handy will tell you how far off you are in 24", and you can double the amount over 4 ft. You've got to get creative if you want it to be tight and look ultra-professional (really, the most important thing is making it tape-able.) Drywall shims are a good friend, and on the trickier jobs having materials of varying thicknesses around helps a lot (1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and some 3/4" stock...especially when bringing things flush with existing plaster.

I was on a job recently where the floor was sloped 2" in 12 ft. I ran the line laser to establish how/where I'd cut the top sheet, then had to angle cut the bottom sheet (which sucks.....one would always rather take some off the top so you don't have to roll sheets)


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## Waynel

Thanks guys. About to head out for the finish work. Great suggestions on measuring. I'll use them. My wife gave me a line laser last Christmas and I've never used. That's about to change. I also like the idea of using scrap board to make a "template" for the angle. Like I said, good advise all. Keep on hangin'.


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## moore

When your done with that old home Waynel maybe give me a hand on this one..Built In 1863.


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## Waynel

You're putting drywall in that old historic home? I don't know what interior wall covering, if any was used in 1863, but it certainly wasn't drywall. Are you going to have to frame it before hanging boards? You win first prize on that one my friend. Good luck.


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## SlimPickins

moore said:


> When your done with that old home Waynel maybe give me a hand on this one..Built In 1863.


Now would be a good time for a pallet of Vario, no? (or a can of gasoline and a match)


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## moore

SlimPickins said:


> Now would be a good time for a pallet of Vario, no? (or a can of gasoline and a match)


I'd rather live In this home than some I've seen slapped up over the years . This cabin will get a new life soon It's being moved and refurbished ,,and I'm happy to see these cabins kept alive. No mesh back then,,so there should be little cracking in the moving process


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## 2buckcanuck

Guess them yankees missed burning that one to the ground during the civil war

Good to some one fixing something like that up though:thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins

moore said:


> I'd rather live In this home than some I've seen slapped up over the years . This cabin will get a new life soon It's being moved and refurbished ,,and I'm happy to see these cabins kept alive. No mesh back then,,so there should be little cracking in the moving process


Yeah, I was being playful. I like old houses...I looked at one down the street the other day, but it's only 100 years old. I'm going to buy it and fix it up....it's in dire need of repair and I'm going to get it for the price of a lot in our neighborhood. After closing I will probably not be on the computer very much, at least not for the next 2 years


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## moore

SlimPickins said:


> Yeah, I was being playful. I like old houses...I looked at one down the street the other day, but it's only 100 years old. I'm going to buy it and fix it up....it's in dire need of repair and I'm going to get it for the price of a lot in our neighborhood. After closing I will probably not be on the computer very much, at least not for the next 2 years


My hats off to ya Slim . In a few years that home will be something to see .We want before @ after pics . You know that . Right?

Those old homes have something that can't be found In A new house....
Character ! ... Did the realty agent live through thru your inspection ?
No joke...All the best to you ,and yours ..Have fun with It man.:thumbup:


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## SlimPickins

moore said:


> My hats off to ya Slim . In a few years that home will be something to see .We want before @ after pics . You know that . Right?
> 
> Those old homes have something that can't be found In A new house....
> Character ! ... Did the realty agent live through thru your inspection ?
> No joke...All the best to you ,and yours ..Have fun with It man.:thumbup:


Thanks man notworthy, it should be challenging, that's for sure. The thing that's really been running through my mind is that I will be able to do whatever I want to it...I'm a renter now, and it kills me sometimes that I can't bust a move on the house. Before and after pictures will be crucial....this is my big chance to make a big change:thumbsup: 

As for my inspection, it was okay, I'm getting it directly through the current owner, so we're both going to save money:thumbup: I have to gut it, which sucks, but it also gives me the ability to really get down to business and make a house that will last for a good long time, and will be efficient to maintain. I know a guy who's good with a hawk and trowel, so it looks like elegant drywall and maybe even some stucco? Although, I like all this new rustic siding using reclaimed materials too.....hmmmm......decisions decisions!


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## harvey randall

*gaps in rock*

remodel dosent have to be difficult. old cure studs are though. 50 or even 10 ten year studs, like kiln dried, maybe worse. use x/y-axsis off the first sheet and go from there. v out raw rock- then brush out residue- then shoot with spray glue(shield accordingly) no mud will stick to raw gypsun, but spray glue will- if dusted corectly. no mud will bond to gypsun- if you doubt me take a piece of scrap. butter the edge- let dry, snaps right off. now spray glue some scrap- same, same- different game. long haul. now prefill and it now dosent matter if you have gaps. besides that- you should always v your butt joints out and prefill. its like welding the butt ends together.


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## SlimPickins

harvey randall said:


> remodel dosent have to be difficult. old cure studs are though. 50 or even 10 ten year studs, like kiln dried, maybe worse. use x/y-axsis off the first sheet and go from there. v out raw rock- then brush out residue- then shoot with spray glue(shield accordingly) no mud will stick to raw gypsun, but spray glue will- if dusted corectly. no mud will bond to gypsun- if you doubt me take a piece of scrap. butter the edge- let dry, snaps right off. now spray glue some scrap- same, same- different game. long haul. now prefill and it now dosent matter if you have gaps. besides that- you should always v your butt joints out and prefill. its like welding the butt ends together.


You're talking like I'm thinking lately. The biggest innovation in drywall that will come along isn't going to be a robot that hangs drywall, a bigger-better-faster-more expensive tool, or a fancy-pants-bucket that will hold your keys and make you a cup of coffee.....it's going to be material, and material that can be applied with a minimum of effort (as close to status quo as possible). 

As I thought about your foam idea, I realized "why not?"....although the idea needs a little bit of tweaking. I'm not down with the idea of disposable tools:no: Let's get with the times....resources are limited. However, a small bead of foam given a rubdown with rubber gloves would work. Now you've got me thinking......tape coat done with the equivalent of a caulking gun.....hmmmmmmmmmmmmm


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## chris

what are you guys talkin about? Did I miss somrthing? Tape with foam?:blink:


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## SlimPickins

chris said:


> what are you guys talkin about? Did I miss somrthing? Tape with foam?:blink:


Sorry, my bad....I carried his topic over into this thread. see --->*foam*


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