# Mudrunner Pop Quiz



## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Trying to upload a pic of my mudrunner, a new endevor for me. So the question is, "why did I do this to my mudrunner???"


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Second question,,,, How many clear tubes have i gone through since i did this???


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

I honestly am having a hard time seeing exactly what you did. But I think you limited the twist for a set mud flow and having the mud last alot longer.

just guessing, Bill


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

proficient Mudder said:


> I honestly am having a hard time seeing exactly what you did. But I think you limited the twist for a set mud flow and having the mud last alot longer.
> 
> just guessing, Bill


Thats a good guess, but its not why I did it. limiting the flow its not the direction of this post. 

Ease of operation is the direction we are going in.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hi Capt, I think i have this one nailed and i may just win a cookie ( Or some capt home brew)

In the first pic you have put some plumbers wrap or insulation tape around just above but not on the twist tube, its on the fixed part end so you have a better grip on it so its easier on your hand and may give you better flow control, it can be a bit tough on that leading hand against the twisting. harder to grip if your hand is wet or muddy.

And in pic two you have put a hose clamp under the clips, that you never take off, you only unclip it from the bottom for cleaning becouse the top of the tube is prone to cracking, hence the hose clamp to stop the stress on this point which equals no more dam tubes to buy???? So you have gone through none since the clamp??

Hows that??? Maybe I get a cookie AND some home brew :thumbup::thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Hi Capt, I think i have this one nailed and i may just win a cookie ( Or some capt home brew)
> 
> In the first pic you have put some plumbers wrap or insulation tape around just above but not on the twist tube, its on the fixed part end so you have a better grip on it so its easier on your hand and may give you better flow control, it can be a bit tough on that leading hand against the twisting. harder to grip if your hand is wet or muddy.
> 
> ...


 You got pic two down just right. I got a NEW tube from Al's taping repair. but in the mean time I put that (muffler clamp from Auto-Zone) on my cracked tube. It hasn't leaked or cracked a bit since then, thought about just hitting it with a hammer to get to install the new one, but ya know!!!!


On pic one, I installed that piece (old bottom part that was ruined cause its too hard to twist the tube and that wore it out) on the top part. I taped it hard to the white PVC part.

New question is,,, WHY???


I am just trying to get you guys to think outside of the box. Hope you don't it the wrong way.

Peace,,, OLD GOAT


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mmmm??? Got me on that one capt?? does it break there and it needed more support, or have you kind of made it one speed some how?? I know the flow rate speeds up the more you twist it so have you made go to a speed you like, and taped it there so it wont go any further?? or is it to stop trash getting in and prevent it to ware out at that point???

I too got a clamp for the top of mine as you suggested but you got me head scratching now??


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I know the pic is of poor quality, and I apoligize for that. The white PVC part is way to small and hard to use in all situations. I kept haveing a prob with the twist, ya know, cause the white thingy was too small and too far down the tube. 

The mudrunner is a push/pull mechinisim, the push part(bronze tube) works well, but the pull/part(white PVC) sucks. Its hard to work and really doesn't work much at all. I found that if I put an exstension on the PVC part (the old tube taped to the PVC) that I could mange the "twist" so much better. I thought that if I took a peice of PVC and GLUED it to the top of the white piece, it would probbly work, but since I had the old worn out bronze peice(cause the twist from the push/pull designed by TT is so bad that it WILL wear out your bronze tube) I would try it first, cause, ya know, it fits the tube. 

Well it worked so good that I have never got around to glueing a peice of PVC pipe to it.

The end result is this,,, by adding to your PVC part, it reduces the stress on the parts and your arm, making a poor design a great one.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

If your not familiar with the push/pull thing,,,, when you twist the bronze tube, it releases the gas cylinder to "push" the mud up.

By pulling back on the PVC part, you are "pulling" the stopper out of the head, creating a place for the mud to "pushed" into


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thats interesting, thanks Capt, Oh and yesterday i tryed your way of using the runner with a 3.5angle head behind the corner roller and wow it worked a treat, dosent use much extra mud but what a great smooth full corner :thumbup::thumbsup: Brillent, and no tearing of tape or board, next comes the 2.5 to finsh off, never done it that way so it will be interesting but man the corners are nearly done already, I used some usg black lid thinned down and had a goldblatt mud diver on my pump so i could fill the bazooka and turn the lever then fill the runner or a flatbox all off one pump and bucket, you said you run two pumps, one for the zooka and one thinner brew for the runner, i didnt seem to need to this time around.
Thank you for the advice, Sir Capt Sheetrock :thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Thats interesting, thanks Capt, Oh and yesterday i tryed your way of using the runner with a 3.5angle head behind the corner roller and wow it worked a treat, dosent use much extra mud but what a great smooth full corner :thumbup::thumbsup: Brillent, and no tearing of tape or board, next comes the 2.5 to finsh off, never done it that way so it will be interesting but man the corners are nearly done already, I used some usg black lid thinned down and had a goldblatt mud diver on my pump so i could fill the bazooka and turn the lever then fill the runner or a flatbox all off one pump and bucket, you said you run two pumps, one for the zooka and one thinner brew for the runner, i didnt seem to need to this time around.
> Thank you for the advice, Sir Capt Sheetrock :thumbsup:


 Glad you liked it that way. I like my mudrunner mud abit thinner, and since i have two pumps (three actually) I just mix up two differant batches. I speed sand my corners with a Speer angle sponge rig from all-wall. I do that cause it cuts down on the trash for the second coat. You don't need to do that but it takes just a few minutes. 

You will really like following with a smaller head, you won't believe how much easier it is and how little effort it involves as opposed to following with a bigger head. Good luck and lets know how it turns out.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hey Capt, The corners worked out fantastic, really sweet and sharp, im stoked, going to stick with this way now, I have tryed all other ways and this way is the best, so easy and fast, thanks a lot you have done me a huge favour, Prob wouldnt have figured it out otherwise.

Here is a payback tip for you, instead of using the sanding block to clean out the corner for 2nd coat, go pick yourself up a flex edge pole sander, the rectangle one, and a pack of 5 foam sanding pads fine grit, use this instead, they really do sand edges well, you will zip around the corners much faster and all from the floor, no stilts or benches needed :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I'll bet the captain would prefer a case of beer instead of a tip:jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I'll bet the captain would prefer a case of beer instead of a tip:jester:


Ha, he prob would to, I dont blame him either, and he deserves a crate or 2, if i could i would shout him no bother and all, thats a lifetime thing he told me how to do and im very grateful indeed. 

Some other advice you despence on here gets a kicking sometimes but first you have to be mature and experenced enough to take it on board and it took me a while to wake up to this way as well being the hand finisher i was, so here is a humble cheers from me anyway :thumbsup: Your the man Capt.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Hey Capt, The corners worked out fantastic, really sweet and sharp, im stoked, going to stick with this way now, I have tryed all other ways and this way is the best, so easy and fast, thanks a lot you have done me a huge favour, Prob wouldnt have figured it out otherwise.
> 
> Here is a payback tip for you, instead of using the sanding block to clean out the corner for 2nd coat, go pick yourself up a flex edge pole sander, the rectangle one, and a pack of 5 foam sanding pads fine grit, use this instead, they really do sand edges well, you will zip around the corners much faster and all from the floor, no stilts or benches needed :thumbsup:


I appreciate that, but the speer sander I am talking about is two sanding sponges (velcro) on a head that screws into a sanding pole handle. It gets both sides at the same time. You can set the velcro pads "deep" to cut the center hard or "shallow" to work the edges.

I have a "gator" pole sander that has the beveled head on it, but if you use that, you have to hit each side individually.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

captain sheetrock
do you know of a link to see pic of that angle sander


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I'll bet the captain would prefer a case of beer instead of a tip:jester:


 Ahh, you guys know me too well,,,,,,

I make my own ya know,,, I call it "Obama" beer, since he tanked the building bussiness i figured I had better learn how to brew.

I make 6 gals for under $6.00, 10% abv. I have a recipe for hard lemonade also. 

Anyone interested, pm me and I'll give the recipe and instructions


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> captain sheetrock
> do you know of a link to see pic of that angle sander


Not off hand, I got it from all-wall. However, I will take a pic of it tomarrow and post it on here,,,,,,,,, See the previous post as to why tomarrow.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I appreciate that, but the speer sander I am talking about is two sanding sponges (velcro) on a head that screws into a sanding pole handle. It gets both sides at the same time. You can set the velcro pads "deep" to cut the center hard or "shallow" to work the edges.
> 
> I have a "gator" pole sander that has the beveled head on it, but if you use that, you have to hit each side individually.


 
Once again smarter than the average bear :jester:
I looked up the sanding sponges and seen a speer sanding block so thought that was what you ment, i guess its time for another look on all walls site then :thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Are you talking about this one Capt

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Pole-Sanders/Ultimate90-Drywall-Corner-Sander

Does it need special replacement sanding blocks?
It would work out quite expensive for me, best i stick to the flex edge one sided sander that i have, still didnt take me very long but i can see this one would be the ducks nuts :thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Are you talking about this one Capt
> 
> http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Pole-Sanders/Ultimate90-Drywall-Corner-Sander
> 
> ...


Yes thats the one. The pads on this one are the original pads. I only use it to speed sand the corners. It sits on a pole from a kobalt sanding pole from Lowes.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I know the pic is of poor quality, and I apoligize for that. The white PVC part is way to small and hard to use in all situations. I kept haveing a prob with the twist, ya know, cause the white thingy was too small and too far down the tube.
> 
> The mudrunner is a push/pull mechinisim, the push part(bronze tube) works well, but the pull/part(white PVC) sucks. Its hard to work and really doesn't work much at all. I found that if I put an exstension on the PVC part (the old tube taped to the PVC) that I could mange the "twist" so much better. I thought that if I took a peice of PVC and GLUED it to the top of the white piece, it would probbly work, but since I had the old worn out bronze peice(cause the twist from the push/pull designed by TT is so bad that it WILL wear out your bronze tube) I would try it first, cause, ya know, it fits the tube.
> .
> ...


 Captain you the man.
Just got my first mudrunner today and I can already see the wisdom of your words.
*THANK YOU.*


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I put the hose clamp at the top and only unclip from the bottom the clean it but i dont get the pvc tube white part etc?? Never did that and mine is fine, Hey Gazman, Get some lanox for lube, I always clean, dry and lube mine with lanox to store it, Put a little on the o ring seals and push the pusher cup down a couple of times to work the lanox into the stem, then one spray into the tube, and re clip :thumbsup: It works great.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Hey Caz
Lanox? Is that from sheep like lanoline?
I will certanly give it to you kiwis any chance to get neer a sheep.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> Hey Caz
> Lanox? Is that from sheep like lanoline?
> I will certanly give it to you kiwis any chance to get neer a sheep.


Its prob good for that, Wouldnt sting as much as WD40

Here, See my pic on post 14, You Auzzies make it, Its great stuff, i use it on all the tools, You dont need much.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f2/bazooka-lubricant-222/


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Inox make some great stuff.
I see that it is made from lanolin. (That is the oil from sheeps wool. Fair dinkum)


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

gazman said:


> Hey Caz
> Lanox? Is that from sheep like lanoline?
> I will certanly give it to you kiwis any chance to get neer a sheep.










Oh no...no no no, not the sheep thing....Here we go again.
When Caz says Lanox don't mistake it for cans of Lanacote like I did, if you can't find Lanox then try Pams canola cooking spray...They don't hurt sheep to make it.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> Inox make some great stuff.
> I see that it is made from lanolin. (That is the oil from sheeps wool. Fair dinkum)


 
Yep, Fair dinkum, Sheeps wool, Works very well and does not stink of solvent, One shot in the CP tube and work the plunger, On the zooka, On the flaxbox, spotter seals, Mudrunner, On blue steel blades to stop rust, Or anything else to hold back rust, Your inland so rust might not be a problem, Im coastal, I even spray my truck winch with it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fair dinkum









fair dink-um
















Do kiwi's dink um sheep fair


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Trying to upload a pic of my mudrunner, a new endevor for me. So the question is, "why did I do this to my mudrunner???"


thats the biggest crackpipe i've ever seen! no wonder you were missing for so long.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

carpentaper said:


> thats the biggest crackpipe i've ever seen! no wonder you were missing for so long.


:laughing: arrrhahaha,







Well done Carp... FAIR DINKUM :glare:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> I put the hose clamp at the top and only unclip from the bottom the clean it but i dont get the pvc tube white part etc?? Never did that and mine is fine, Hey Gazman, Get some lanox for lube, I always clean, dry and lube mine with lanox to store it, Put a little on the o ring seals and push the pusher cup down a couple of times to work the lanox into the stem, then one spray into the tube, and re clip :thumbsup: It works great.


 Hey Caz, this is a really old thread (kinda like me). 
I put the extension on the top part of the tube, simple cause its too dern hard to twist that little white PVC part. By adding the tube , it creates an EQUAL twist factor to counter-balance the bronze part at the bottom. If you think about it, you never have any probs twisting the bronze part, its always your other hand that wears out trying to twist the white part???? the white part PULLS the stopper back from the top of the head, allowing the mud to escape the tube. If it don't pull easy,,, you don't have an easy time.

I use wd-40 only for a few reasons, one being that it attracts NO dust, meaning that it won't help you buid up junk and gunk behnind the parts. It always cleans, never clogs. It also has a litte red tube that comes with every can, and for some un-known reason, that little tube happens to fit (PERFECTLY) into them two litte holes on the white PVC part.:thumbup: Think about it.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

*Muddrunner*



Capt-sheetrock said:


> Hey Caz, this is a really old thread (kinda like me).
> I put the extension on the top part of the tube, simple cause its too dern hard to twist that little white PVC part. By adding the tube , it creates an EQUAL twist factor to counter-balance the bronze part at the bottom. If you think about it, you never have any probs twisting the bronze part, its always your other hand that wears out trying to twist the white part???? the white part PULLS the stopper back from the top of the head, allowing the mud to escape the tube. If it don't pull easy,,, you don't have an easy time.
> 
> I use wd-40 only for a few reasons, one being that it attracts NO dust, meaning that it won't help you buid up junk and gunk behnind the parts. It always cleans, never clogs. It also has a litte red tube that comes with every can, and for some un-known reason, that little tube happens to fit (PERFECTLY) into them two litte holes on the white PVC part.:thumbup: Think about it.


 Capt i am still lost the pvc part!!!!!! I have 1 as u know but i never touch the pvc bit just the bronze bit i twist What am i missing here??:furious:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> Capt i am still lost the pvc part!!!!!! I have 1 as u know but i never touch the pvc bit just the bronze bit i twist What am i missing here??:furious:


 Okay, I know I ain't too good at explaining things, I'll try again.

the upper part of the tube is aluminum, then the white pvc part, then the bronze part.

You hold the aluminum part in one hand and the bronze in the other. Not nessacarlly holding the pvc part. when you do this (as it was designed) the white pvc part has to "pull" down as the bronze part twists.works fine when its new,not worn,or not dirty,and of course ifin the mud ain't too thick.

By adding the tube to the top part "over" the aluminum tube and tapeing it to the pvc part, as you twist you are "helping" the pvc part "pull" the stopper down. 

This makes the runner so much easier to use. It also reduces the wear on the slot in the bottom of the bronze tube and eliminates the wear to the nylon bushing that sits on the screw in the bottom of the bronze tube slot.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

AH HA, I get you now Capt, So both hands twist in oppisite directions, The penny just dropped, Very smart Capt, Well done and good idea, Tapetech would do well to design this into the runner.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> AH HA, I get you now Capt, So both hands twist in oppisite directions, The penny just dropped, Very smart Capt, Well done and good idea, Tapetech would do well to design this into the runner.


 I agree, but since TT is the only one that makes a mudrunner, they could not care less!!!!:thumbsup:

Unlike Columbia and marshalltown, TT has nothing but comtempt for their customers. (they are kinda like Graco in this aspect)

Stated diferantly, since TT thinks they are the know-all and be-all experts, we should simple grovel at their feet for their offerings.

I have tried on several occasions to contact TT,, I can't even email them at their site.

Oh well, I fixed it,, so maybe they ain't as slick as they think they are???

If a dumb ******* can figure it out,,, perhaps they are over paying their research team????:thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Is that ^^^^^ a fair dinkum????


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I used that bronze tube, cause i had a cpl from haeving to re-place them as they wear out from the rough twisting involved, which wears out the bronze tube (slot). However, if you haven't worn your bronze part out yet, get a pieace of pvc pipe, rip it in half(long ways) on a table saw, slip it over the aluminum tube, glue it back together with pvc glue and glue it to the pvc part at the same time,,,,,,

Gee I should have been a TT designer.(not),,,,,,they chase sheep!!!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Is that ^^^^^ a fair dinkum????


Too rite Capt. Thats Fair flaming dinkum:thumbup:. You blokes are getting the hang of it.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Been using this for a while now as a general lubricant. It is Lanolon based AND has a little red tube.








Hey Capt I reckon this idea on the Apla-cator might be the go on the tube added to the mudrunner. (The little rollers).


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

gazman said:


> Been using this for a while now as a general lubricant. It is Lanolon based AND has a little red tube.
> View attachment 1400
> 
> 
> ...


 Problly would work, I think its abit big in diamater, and you'll have to dissasemble the runner to get it on, thats why I suggested ripping the pvc pipe longwise. However if your gonna take it all aprt, you can just slide the pipe on and then attach it to the pvc part. You don't have to attach it to the pvc part, but doing so gives you abit more controll and stability. a piece of plastic pipe is gonna fit the tube pretty good. Just some thoughts.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Here are some pics of my modified mudrunner. All credit to the capt. Used PVC pipe 38mm ID perfect fit. Even put some graphite powder to give it a bit more slip.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

gazman said:


> Here are some pics of my modified mudrunner. All credit to the capt. Used PVC pipe 38mm ID perfect fit. Even put some graphite powder to give it a bit more slip.


 Nice work !!!!!!!!!! Your gonna love it.


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