# Level 5 with 12' box



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Learned a new trick today. Skimmed some 8ft walls with a box. basicall went with the 12 up and down then moved over 11''s leaving a gap. Then after about an hour filled in the gaps. Will skim again tomorrow. So far it looks great


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## justadrywallguy (Sep 10, 2010)

boco said:


> Learned a new trick today. Skimmed some 8ft walls with a box. basicall went with the 12 up and down then moved over 11''s leaving a gap. Then after about an hour filled in the gaps. Will skim again tomorrow. So far it looks great


Know a guy that does that. I will stick to a hawk and trowel for skimming out walls. first pass up and down, light sanding then horizontal the second time. comes out as flat as Kansas:thumbsup:


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

This job is a bit different as it was previously wallpapered. I started skimming by hand but it was going to slow. Too much glue and air bubbles with a 18 inch knife. With the box it left just the right amount of mud after adjusting the blade.


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## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

I did that on a huge area once... high ceilings , ceiling that were far from flat, had lots of very hollow joins etc...I got caught out by pin holing though because the compound was going on a bit thick in places. The owner wanted it tidied up, the paint that was on it was uneven. And there was such a huge area to do that there was no way I was going to do it by hand. As it was when the place was finally rented out the new tenant put more wall and ceilings in and covered it all up...just as well, I worry about it all flaking off lol


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## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

If I did it again I'd use a 10 or 12" box but only move over an inch or so, then fill in next day with a 5.5 inch specialty box.

I just coated a large room of walls that had had wall paper taken off... was uming and aring about whether or not to box skim it, wished I had.
Did a whole house full of walls like that once, dumps 90% of ya compound on then you just have to cut in by hand round the edges


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

boco said:


> Learned a new trick today. Skimmed some 8ft walls with a box. basicall went with the 12 up and down then moved over 11''s leaving a gap. Then after about an hour filled in the gaps. Will skim again tomorrow. So far it looks great



yes it works great if you mix your mud just right then run into the pass and wipe with a 16 knife it works great, has to be wet to wipe,

last company I worked for seen me do it and let me tell you I won with them.......

Hey did they not make a song called everyone's a winner?:thumbsup:


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## focusrebel (Mar 20, 2012)

I always get my guys to trowel on the mud thick ahead of me, and let them get ahead. I wait a bit, and then start feathering the mud behind them, always stacking over my previous pass. This allows the mud to absorb in the drywall, which leaves a thicker finish - which you won't sand through. The trick is in learning the right 'toe' pressure on the trowel. I do everything with my 12", and keep cycling the mud back to the guys at the front who are loading. If I'm working alone - same thing - smear on a whole bucket of mud - nice and thick. Then go back to where I started, and start feathering. Once my hawk is full - go back to the front and load it up, then back to the feathering area - and keep cycling your mud. My finishes look primed, and I leave nearly 1/8" thick of mud throughout. 

I guess its more along the lines of the plastering they do in the U.K. 

Make sure you use FINISHING mud! Otherwise you'll mess up your shoulders sanding.

Oh, one more thing. Its important to really goop the mud on. If you load it too thin - it will start to set before you get to the feathering - and then you'll swear off level 5's...


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Its called a skim coat for a reason not a veneer coat. An 1/8" of mud is overkill, skim coat for a level 5 needs to only fill in the texture of the paper to create a uniform finish. A 12" box will make the job go fast, box out leaving a inch or two inbetween runs, it drys fast enough to go over again in a couple of hours. If you don't think this is enough you can always box again in perpendicular direction which usally will not be necessary. Or you can always fire up the airless spray it then sand. Still waiting for Ricks pump for this application .......


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

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## focusrebel (Mar 20, 2012)

I've seen many other tapers try new methods for doing a level 5. I've seen guys use soft mud, and roll it on while someone behind practically squeegees the mud off. You sand right through it. My method can also be used for skimming over textured ceilings - especially when there's asbestos involved, and it can't be disturbed. I've done nearly 1000 separate ceilings over the last 3 years like this.

My company is well known for our degree of finishing - and our level 5 has helped to set us apart from much of the competition.

Use a box if that's what you like. I don't believe a box is suitable because you can't really get a good consistent draw tight into the corners, and you can't properly overlap for a level 5 without letting it dry and then making another pass in between. Besides that - you can't possibly hope to do a nicer job than you ever will with a trowel.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

focusrebel said:


> I've seen many other tapers try new methods for doing a level 5. I've seen guys use soft mud, and roll it on while someone behind practically squeegees the mud off. You sand right through it. My method can also be used for skimming over textured ceilings - especially when there's asbestos involved, and it can't be disturbed. I've done nearly 1000 separate ceilings over the last 3 years like this.
> 
> My company is well known for our degree of finishing - and our level 5 has helped to set us apart from much of the competition.
> 
> Use a box if that's what you like. I don't believe a box is suitable because you can't really get a good consistent draw tight into the corners, and you can't properly overlap for a level 5 without letting it dry and then making another pass in between. Besides that - you can't possibly hope to do a nicer job than you ever will with a trowel.


 
Amen, bro. We use the 18" 3/4 nap and will smoke a crew using a 12' box. And we'll usually go ahead and use Dr. Smooth or equal to avoid those pesky mud behavior issues. Removing ALL the glue is key as well.

That's on a room or three, remodel work. Now if we're talking about a Level 5 on a manse or a quarter acre worth, I'll throw down for a SpeedSkim or LevelCoat pushed through a Mark IV or V, if I can get the $$$ for it.


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