# wraping windows with bullnose



## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

what the heck is the method for cutting the 45 on the bullnose this is really stupid but I cut one of those plastic premaid corners in half and use it as a stincel lol not joking


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

should be a good laugh for you all. Im asuming theres a chop saw method?


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

also what is the trick for getting those cuts in the corners of the bullnose (where the 45 is) to not crack? I have been using white paintable caulking to fill the cut area is this at all right?


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Trim-tex makes a cutting guide. Mine is about 6" and yellow and has slots for 22 1/2 degree cuts. Chopsaw with a fine blade does also work. Yes paintable caulk is what we use. The fittings for the corners seem to telegraph and are expensive, so we do cut our miters where possible.


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Yep, I'm with [email protected] on the caulk and the telegraphing fittings.
They used to put a template in the box.

I've done so many that I cut about half way across to the center of the radius and then a forty five out to the oposite edge. Does that make sense ? 

There is probably a link that shows it somewhere.

Who invented bullnose ?


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

is bullnose pretty popular throughout the country? I've maybe done 6 houses in my life. It never really hit here/hasn't hit here yet


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## A+ Texture LLC (Jan 10, 2009)

It's the standard for the most part in southern arizona. I generally just cut it and then caulk it after finishing.


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

thanks gents I cant seem to get away from this bullnose thing people want me to do all there windows and corners here I think to much of round looks terrible.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

When I went Out on my own mid 90's, no one here ever heard of it but probably 30-40% now want it -- for free.


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

I did 7 houses in one plat. Once one home owner saw it . The other ones wanted it.
I put it in my own house and a few others. I guess I haven't done that many after all.
I like the mud on. I used trimtex in my house. Did mud on the others with the slide thru box and roller. It works slicker than Ship. Much quicker than nail on. No cracking and you don't hit your fingers with your ax.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I,ve been doing bull nose since the 80s . I don,t use a pattern or caulking and i never get colled back on them.I could show you how i do it ,but then i would have to kill you. Its realy very easy.I also don,t think it should cost any more because its not much harder to put on and its easyer to coat.you do have to clean it but with the right tool thats simple too. i dont spend much time sanding it for orange peel either.


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## muddymen (Feb 3, 2009)

Well alltex lets have it because it takes me almost twice as long to install so the going rate around here is $10.00 a stick.
I use spray glue to install and quickset for the corners(never tried caulking) oh and I also use the yellow cutting guide.
One more thing most the homes I've put bullnose in go slick so it has to look perfect.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

It should ALWAYS be more for bull-nose. That is if you're the one paying for the extra base adapters, the extra per stick, the extra inventory to keep the extra profiles on hand. We used to be able to get $10 extra per stick, nowadays it's about .03 extra.

And easier to coat, I beg to differ. Having to wipe the bull after each pass costs time. I use their little squeegie, but have also doq-eared a scrap and used that to wipe slobbers with in a pinch.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

*cutting bullnose*



muddymen said:


> Well alltex lets have it because it takes me almost twice as long to install so the going rate around here is $10.00 a stick.
> I use spray glue to install and quickset for the corners(never tried caulking) oh and I also use the yellow cutting guide.
> One more thing most the homes I've put bullnose in go slick so it has to look perfect.


We dont do alot of smoothwall but but when i do its pretty much the same.Icut the top and bottom window pieces first,45 degree angle all the way,both ends ,then the sides cut strait about half way then turn a curving 45 .for texture i finger a little mud in the corners as i coat both coats.coulking is good if need be for smooth.The way i instal it is how i learned in the union in Califonia in The 80s.Slap the mud on with a knife to glue the tap on metal then use a cornerbead roller to set it then coat it (dont wipei t down) just coat it and use a rubber bull nose cleaner right after running


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## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

i like to back butter my mitered ends almost like a mason does when laying brick when put in firmly place the taping mud ooses out and you just wipe with finger when compound dryes, bead won't crack in joint.


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## muddymen (Feb 3, 2009)

Just to be clear I don't use the metal BN, that's why I use spray glue and I also staple the arches(1 3/8" stapels every foot or so)same as I do my corner bead....back butter the corners I may try that but I use the glue because it sets up super fast and I can adjust it to a perfect fit and then it's not going to move once it dries, 10 seconds or so is all it takes per corner if that.
Darren is right when he says it's time consumning to wipe off the excess mud between coats even with a wipe down tool. I even bought one of thouse "bull nose sanding tools" and well I tossed it away a year or two ago.


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## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

ya muddyman works great with paper/metal but i use the plastic on arches with the back butter method and it helps stabilize the miters stronger with of coarse contact spray adhesive and staples.


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