# corner bead



## grid ninja (Mar 21, 2010)

just finished a airport job in Tulsa it had 3500 ft of corner bead . I thank its the most bead i ever put on one job, spray glue and clincher , i never put splice under bead no more, so whats the most bead you ever put on


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## Ron Franck (Jan 3, 2010)

140 feet, all in one house.  (outside 90's )


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

3500 is alot- I agree clincher is the way to go, but I would add staples to them too.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT (Dec 19, 2008)

In one day?


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## grid ninja (Mar 21, 2010)

FOR THOSE ABOUT said:


> In one day?


 i was on that job for 4 months 11 to 7 in the morning


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

nice


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

My first time using paper face bead. No nails, I like that.
A bit of prep work before applying . [ sheet rock brand]
Whats the better paper face bead?


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## paplaster (Feb 21, 2011)

moore said:


> My first time using paper face bead. No nails, I like that.
> A bit of prep work before applying . [ sheet rock brand]
> Whats the better paper face bead?


 No-Coat all the way


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

paplaster said:


> No-Coat all the way


Your right. I used 100 ft. of no coat on this house , on angles and a few 33s.
another box would have covered all off angles and outside corners.
$$$$ thou!


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

moore said:


> Your right. I used 100 ft. of no coat on this house , on angles and a few 33s.
> another box would have covered all off angles and outside corners.
> $$$$ thou!


 look good moore...keep up the good work...you know whats funny ever sence i joined drywall talk i take pic of everything i do ...even more than before ...what about you


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

No-Coat is a damn good corner bead, but it is cost prohibitive in the UK. It also has a very sharp corner. I much prefer the waxy corner of the USG tape on bead, and its price. No-Coat 325 is the equivalent of $67 a box including tax here.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

paplaster said:


> No-Coat all the way


:thumbsup:


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Phillips makes agood paperfaced cornerbead also.


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## paplaster (Feb 21, 2011)

moore said:


> Your right. I used 100 ft. of no coat on this house , on angles and a few 33s.
> another box would have covered all off angles and outside corners.
> $$$$ thou!


 No-Coat does cost a little more, however the labor savings and fewer call backs more than make up the difference. Have you tried the Hydro bead ?


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

raven said:


> Phillips makes agood paperfaced cornerbead also.


:thumbsup: My preference also--not a fan of no-coat bead--but I use a ton of no-coat450 for offset


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

No I haven't still hooked on the mud on bead sheetrock conerbead hooper is sweet.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Ive had the hopper set up since like 98---its awsome--and roller [2] 1 for 90 and 1 for bullnose


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

oops.


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Abuot a month ago a contractor had me look at one of his condos which has metalbead in it the majority was cracked. mud on is the way to go.


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Heres a tip, use a sponge to clean the bead once you stick, and wipe it , then goe through with a damp sponge and give em a quick wipe. Makes em nice and clean.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Just a grumpy ole fats man's view,,, remember no-coat in a square box is NOT bead. No-coat BEAD is prohibitive in price and inferior in quality to real paperfaced beads.

I prefer USG wide beads (super-wides) Phillps is a decent bead also (but they come in lenghts also, and not on rolls)


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

raven said:


> Heres a tip, use a sponge to clean the bead once you stick, and wipe it , then goe through with a damp sponge and give em a quick wipe. Makes em nice and clean.


I do that too.


I also prefer the Sheetrock B1XW EL Capt.


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

When compitition strikes I like to show the homeowner several styles of corner trims. I also explain the process of the drywalling phases, and let them know how much the material is going to cost. Some tight-asses think its all going in your pocket. I think it makes a difference when its needed. Quality will prevail.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> look good moore...keep up the good work...you know whats funny ever sence i joined drywall talk i take pic of everything i do ...even more than before ...what about you


Dude ,, i wish i had a daughter with a digital camera years ago.
the witches caps/round houses/barrel ceilings.. my kids laugh at me with me with my pointer/thumb typing. they have not a clue. Kodak thats what we had as kids. DON'T TOUCH IT TILL IT DRYS!


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

True outside 90 bead from No-coat comes in pre -cut lengths in a long box just like metal bead comes in.
I am now paying $2.30 for 1 8ft.stick.I would be dumb not to use it.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I HATE superwide paperface bead


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> True outside 90 bead from No-coat comes in pre -cut lengths in a long box just like metal bead comes in.
> I am now paying $2.30 for 1 8ft.stick.I would be dumb not to use it.


That's what we pay for paper bead:yes:
The pre-cut no coat is way too pricey here, But when the price comes down, The DWC I work for says he will be getting it. Just the savings in mud will pay for it. But then again, some of the tapers are still crying from switching to paper from metal bead years ago.

Sometimes change has to come slowly:jester:


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## paplaster (Feb 21, 2011)

Final touch drywall said:


> True outside 90 bead from No-coat comes in pre -cut lengths in a long box just like metal bead comes in.
> I am now paying $2.30 for 1 8ft.stick.I would be dumb not to use it.


 I agree.:thumbsup:


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## ding (Jan 19, 2011)

where i am the 10ft no coat beads are around $1.00 ft cheaper than buying the 100 ft roll of 350


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I just bid a job with no coat bead (200 sticks) it calls for all usg Green. Last time i used it the sheetrock was aweful and building was cold. I didnt have much trouble except for getting it to adhere. I have a hopper and roller so it goes on fast. I also use a laser lever to keep sophates level and outside 90s plumb. What happens is i get a little movement when drying. What type of mud do you set it with? Do use an additive? and should I just coat it before it dries? I really want the job so i only charged $5.oo per stick. Will this at least cover my material?


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

No Coat is a great product and I've been using it for years. It has gotten me over all sorts of bad hanging and framing issues, it is #1 for crack protection, and it's an option I'd definitely consider for my own house. However, it is not a fast product to install, nor is any paper faced bead. Loading (hand, hopper, or mudhead), installing, and wiping down is always going to be slower than just loading and installing. It's certainly faster than wrestling with staples, which is a losing proposition imo given that boards are simply unable to grab 'em (although I admit I don't have much experience with stapling), but it's not the fastest thing around by a long shot. 

A recent 25% price increase from the NC distributer got me off my butt and sent me looking for another bead. I've moved to PVC with spray glue and install with a duct tape wrapped roller (hey, it works!) to ease cleanup. Most PVC beads kick out WAY too far but the Trimtex slimline and similar low profile beads take the same fill as NC and the cost of the glue is about the same as the cost of the backing mud. I'm sure the crack protection is inferior but it's not as if my builders say they want the Ferrari and are willing to pay every dollar for it.


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

boco said:


> I just bid a job with no coat bead (200 sticks) it calls for all usg Green. Last time i used it the sheetrock was aweful and building was cold. I didnt have much trouble except for getting it to adhere. I have a hopper and roller so it goes on fast. I also use a laser lever to keep sophates level and outside 90s plumb. What happens is i get a little movement when drying. What type of mud do you set it with? Do use an additive? and should I just coat it before it dries? I really want the job so i only charged $5.oo per stick. Will this at least cover my material?


 
Kudos for ensuring everything is dead straight, boco, but if the builder hasn't done the same then it won't really work. You can float over small undulations but if the corner is one big curve then the bead has got to follow it. You can't straighten a banana (so don't let the builder tell you that you have to).

I doubt you're getting movement or bond loss during drying. The bead is probably popping during installation because of irregularities in the wall. Hotmud will provide better grab than premix, which can help, but you also need to let the bead kick out further than you'd want to on tall spots so that it doesn't wrap around or pop on shallow spots. None of this would be a concern if the framing and rocking was as it ought to be.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Just got off phone with GC. Its a 10,500 sqft ceiling in a parking garage. I dont have enough electrics to heat, so propane is my only option. Quick set may be the best option. The sophates are 175 ft and 65 ft long and now Gc wants expansion joints. Of course at no extra charge.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I pretty much have the job. Now how would you attack it? I have 2 weeks to complete. I was thinking week 1 complete hard lid then week 2 coat all bead with ez sand but finish with green. Do they make 12 ft pieces?


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

boco,, I think the 5 bucks a stick will more than cover your material cost.I always coat when I am done wiping down. just used the excess material and put it right back on. nothing fancy. just a quick prefill


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

boco said:


> I pretty much have the job. Now how would you attack it? I have 2 weeks to complete. I was thinking week 1 complete hard lid then week 2 coat all bead with ez sand but finish with green. Do they make 12 ft pieces?


 If you are referring to the bead and not the expansion yes they make 12'. Some places it is hard to come by but can be ordered that may not fit into your schedule. 5$ per piece will cover the cost of the expansion bead maybe that stuff is not cheap if using the metal, another trick is to use two tear away back to back and close up the gap it works good and you do not have to fill out so wide to make it look flat.


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

They make 12'ers but for a run like that I'd use boxes of 325 (or 450 if you want to be a hero). Better a butt every 100' than every 12'.

I'd load 100' run with a mudhead on a cornerbox and stilt up to install, but you might want a shorter run if the wind is blowing through and the mud will crust up. 

Congratulations. You just won the 'Longest Piece of No Coat' contest.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Jason said:


> They make 12'ers but for a run like that I'd use boxes of 325 (or 450 if you want to be a hero). Better a butt every 100' than every 12'.
> 
> I'd load 100' run with a mudhead on a cornerbox and stilt up to install, but you might want a shorter run if the wind is blowing through and the mud will crust up.
> 
> Congratulations. You just won the 'Longest Piece of No Coat' contest.


 The farthest run I have is 84 or 85 ft. It did think it went all the way through but there is some breaks.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

Jason said:


> They make 12'ers but for a run like that I'd use boxes of 325 (or 450 if you want to be a hero). Better a butt every 100' than every 12'.


The bead & 325 are 2 different creatures IMO.I wouldn't use 325 where the bead is meant for.The seams take a no brainer to hide.If you use the roller the seams disappear.


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

Final touch drywall said:


> The bead & 325 are 2 different creatures IMO.I wouldn't use 325 where the bead is meant for.The seams take a no brainer to hide.If you use the roller the seams disappear.


It's a bit lighter but I'd prefer it over cut lenghts for a long run. 

Maybe he can get ahold of some of the 500' rolls they made for use with their cutter/mud applicator machine. Have you seen a vid of this monster? It's friggin' hilarious!


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Jason said:


> It's a bit lighter but I'd prefer it over cut lenghts for a long run.
> 
> Maybe he can get ahold of some of the 500' rolls they made for use with their cutter/mud applicator machine. Have you seen a vid of this monster? It's friggin' hilarious!


Do you have a link to the vid?


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## justadrywallguy (Sep 10, 2010)

paplaster said:


> No-Coat does cost a little more, however the labor savings and fewer call backs more than make up the difference. Have you tried the Hydro bead ?


 The No Coat rep gave me 5 sticks of bullnose Hydro bead to try, it is nice stuff. He showed me how tough it is on a mock up he had in the back of his van, when it bonded, it took the paper off the rock when he pried it off


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> Do you have a link to the vid?


Behold the behemoth!

http://www.autoslam.com/

I applaud their attempts at innovation but this misses the mark for me by a long, long way. "Input the data." Srsly?


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## tradesmen11 (Apr 11, 2011)

Cool topic.Nice posts.Good keep it up.

builders in Edinburgh


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Just a grumpy ole fats man's view,,, remember no-coat in a square box is NOT bead. No-coat BEAD is prohibitive in price and inferior in quality to real paperfaced beads.
> 
> I prefer USG wide beads (super-wides) Phillps is a decent bead also (but they come in lenghts also, and not on rolls)


B 1 super wides ??


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> B 1 super wides ??


There's b1u's and b1w's
The b1u's the steel is equal in size, But the nose is more thicker, meaning they take a bit more mud to fill

The b1w's, one side of the steel is wider, but the nose takes less of a load.
I dont like them, you half to think or watch out which side of the rock you lay the thin side of the steel on. Thin on closed side while wider on the open side. 
too much thinking, might cause pain


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

2Buck--,I miss your point on b1superwides--a supplier used to carry them here,but now carries Phillips,I loved the superwides-the paper flange is the same on both sides,yes the phillips bead is less pronounced ,but I found the superwide was a better product.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

Those paper metal beads require too much mud IMO,& is like throwing money out the window.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> 2Buck--,I miss your point on b1superwides--a supplier used to carry them here,but now carries Phillips,I loved the superwides-the paper flange is the same on both sides,yes the phillips bead is less pronounced ,but I found the superwide was a better product.


my Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaa d
I was assuming you guys were calling the B1u's super wides, was not aware of a product named superwide. If I deal with a strange supply house I ask for the wider ones, if I ask for the b1u's they go  but.........
I was wondering why the word super though ??????
But maybe some new guys now realize there is 2 types now, at least in canuck land:yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> Those paper metal beads require too much mud IMO,& is like throwing money out the window.


More prep . yes,,, But , no coat takes prep also . IMO, hot mud and a/p
seems to bond well to paper face bead, opposed to no coat and straight x metal bead,, IMO! If i never have to nail on another bead,, I'm a happy camper!!!!!!!!!


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

here is my nocoat bead boxed 2 coats


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

3500 ft. thats about 438, 8ft. stix .about 110 stix a month.thats alot of glue sniffing.How many ft. of rock?


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

:thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> :thumbsup:


DAMN !! THAT'S a level bead!!:yes:


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

That's No-coat for ya,I can coat the stuff blind.I have been saying how great it is since day 1.People are starting to see how great the stuff is.:thumbsup:looks good misner.


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