# boxing with hotmud- what u think.



## jondododat (Jun 28, 2012)

<P>any of you guys have luck saving time glass taping and 7" boxing w hotmud.  .......then follow with 12" box with finish (topping).   too much touch up?  too big a risk for humping w/ hotmud.   Let me know what you think.  thanks dudes!</P>


----------



## jondododat (Jun 28, 2012)

boxing with hotmud? u stupid or crazy or both? u must not like yr tools much doin that. anyways, i say no don't do it unless the texture is gonna be heavy duty.....good luck man.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Whats the go with answering your own post?

Anyway hot mud and boxes, no worries and no problems. Do yourself a favour though use paper and forget the mesh, as a matter a fact dont even mention the word on this site.
I have been running hot mud through boxes for nearly fifteen years, just make sure you clean your tools out before it goes off.


----------



## Brian S (Apr 17, 2011)

+1 on the hot mud through a box
Some guys even use the pump as well not got that brave yet
I always do it when running the machines, mesh up first, then a 7" with hot mud 
Just have a large bucket full of water ready to wash out in, and a spray bottle to flush those awkward bits


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

did it once,had a guy wash the pump out after every pail, I ran faster than a mare, but was baked the next day, would I do it again, no


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Run it through the pump no problems. Sounds like our hot mud is king.


----------



## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

:no:not in my boxes or pumps


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I've never tried it. Probably never will either.
If I am that rushed to finish a job...well...I don't really care.
I won't take the job. Our hot muds aren't what they are down under.
So that stuff's staying away from my tools.
I do agree about mesh being garbage though


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

The quickfill syringe type pump is the answer for boxing with hotmud :yes:.


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I really don't see the need for running hotmud through the tools. You can apply it with a 6 and wipe it down with an 8 or 10 and it is pretty dayum fast method for a quickie coat. Mesh??? Mesh I use all the time for patch and repair... but Never on any complete remodles or new homes . Mesh??? yeah it has it's place.. temp walls on comercial work.. But if you run the chit all the way through an enitre home,, #1 you can't tape #2 you still can't finish #3 get the hell out of the drywall trade.


----------



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

Hot mud through auto tools no probs .The main thing to keep a track of when the mud is gunna go off ,and clean up before this time .Make sure tools are clean and well lubricated . Have been running hot mud through boxes for over 12 years and zooker for 2 years no dramas.:yes:


----------



## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

betterdrywall said:


> I really don't see the need for running hotmud through the tools. You can apply it with a 6 and wipe it down with an 8 or 10 and it is pretty dayum fast method for a quickie coat. Mesh??? Mesh I use all the time for patch and repair... but Never on any complete remodles or new homes . Mesh??? yeah it has it's place.. temp walls on comercial work.. But if you run the chit all the way through an enitre home,, #1 you can't tape #2 you still can't finish #3 get the hell out of the drywall trade.


My finishers timed it - 2 taping with a bazooka and later coming back to put on the first coat with the 10' box and 2 with mesh and puting the first coat on right then and there. Its alot faster for joints. Lately, we been using the Bazooka only to tape angles, and been using mesh on all our joints. My guys apply 45/AP and it looks really smooth. 1 pass after with a 12" box, and some touch up and it looks like glass!:thumbup:


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

if you want to get your coats on faster mixing a hundred times with hotmud just gets me depressed and my best advice would be move your azz boy....hotmud taping leaves flatspots and pinholes. So i hope you like sanding lol


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

My thought,,, Who is paying for the extra cost of using Hotmud on new residential??? 
And How much extra are you charging? They don't exactly give the chit away at the handydandy store. Personally I don't give material away . 

Another thing,, with the summer heat,, You have to be a fool to run any quickset material on a complete home,,Right now a person could tape and keep coating non-stop until completely finished with regular J/C . That is Tape 2 coats and touchup.


----------



## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Why hotmud ? Turn on fan and heater and in less than an hour your coat will be dry with regular mud ... I would never do it with my tools


----------



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

Unfortunateley over here in AUS we have no choice but to use hot mud . We can only use allpurpose ect on joins if all joins are back blocked walls too .This means we have to glue a scap bit of sheet on the back side of all joins .So its just not worth it . Then there is the issue with it drying , would just take too long where i live in Tassie


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

running a 60/40 mix is sufficient?




'


----------



## Brian S (Apr 17, 2011)

A bag of hot mud here is half the cost of normal mud, for the same size bag.

Hot mud/ Fast set 20kg £7.50
Joint Cement 20kg £13.00

Been in Drywall fixing and finishing since 1980, used both paper and mesh, will get a good finish with both, never had any complaints or comebacks, I am a good Taper, nay, a brilliant taper:thumbup: I will still be drywalling in 10yrs time (when I'll be 70)


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Brian S said:


> A bag of hot mud here is half the cost of normal mud, for the same size bag.
> 
> Hot mud/ Fast set 20kg £7.50
> Joint Cement 20kg £13.00
> ...



Hot mud works out cheaper here too. 
Hot mud 20kg $27
A/P 15kg $30


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Interesting,, here it cost alot more.


----------



## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

gazman said:


> Hot mud works out cheaper here too.
> Hot mud 20kg $27
> A/P 15kg $30


 Thats interesting, our dollars alot weaker than yours and I can buy Promix all purpose for $30.50 @22.5kg and a bag of dust is similar at around $27 I think as well.


----------



## Quicksetter (Jun 25, 2012)

gazman said:


> Whats the go with answering your own post?
> 
> He told him.....er, but wait......:tongue_smilie:


----------



## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

Boxing hot mud is no big deal.Heres how .1- string glas,2- mix hot mud and box with your 7 inch,3- finish box and touch up 4- sand,5- prime and texture,6- come bacck and fix all the damm cracks and7- find another builder to work for becouse this one won,t have you back.i used it off and on for 30 years,mostly when rushed and cussed it almost every time.and fyi. I,v run hot mud in every yool including the tube and angle gaser and never lost one yet.You just have to be smarter than the mud.


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

gazman said:


> Whats the go with answering your own post?
> 
> Anyway hot mud and boxes, no worries and no problems. Do yourself a favour though use paper and forget the mesh, as a matter a fact dont even mention the word on this site.
> I have been running hot mud through boxes for nearly fifteen years, just make sure you clean your tools out before it goes off.


Because we are in Australia, Yes use hot mudd put the box setting on a tight setting, dump the mudd in the back of the box with a 4 inch close the lid and ball it out... keep everything clean


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The 4" does come in handy for small jobs:yes:.
But for a house I run base through the pump. Just take note of the time when you mix it and run like hell.


----------



## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

jondododat said:


> <P>any of you guys have luck saving time glass taping and 7" boxing w hotmud.  .......then follow with 12" box with finish (topping).   too much touch up?  too big a risk for humping w/ hotmud.   Let me know what you think.  thanks dudes!</P>





jondododat said:


> boxing with hotmud? u stupid or crazy or both? u must not like yr tools much doin that. anyways, i say no don't do it unless the texture is gonna be heavy duty.....good luck man.


you answering your own question here ?
:blink:


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Mudstar said:


> you answering your own question here ?
> :blink:


You are only a week or so late Mudstar.


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

gazman said:


> The 4" does come in handy for small jobs:yes:.
> But for a house I run base through the pump. Just take note of the time when you mix it and run like hell.


Naturally, My pumps are old Columbia not hott mudd pumps got them cheap in Canada and imported them with all my tools in a job box on a boat that took 50 days to get from canada to australia, pumps that arent hot mud pumps have to sit in a bucket with water and ussally only use all purpose etc, still great tools


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> You are only a week or so late Mudstar.


Is it mudstar or is it 2buck dear watson????


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

cazna said:


> Is it mudstar or is it 2buck dear watson????


I dont think it is 2Buck, I have seen them both active on here at the same time.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Drywall_King said:


> Naturally, My pumps are old Columbia not hott mudd pumps got them cheap in Canada and imported them with all my tools in a job box on a boat that took 50 days to get from canada to australia, pumps that arent hot mud pumps have to sit in a bucket with water and ussally only use all purpose etc, still great tools


That's the only problem I see, from all the tales I was told, the hot mud wares out the seals faster on the pumps and boxes. I see some companies promote their pumps are meant for hotmud. Maybe it's just b/c they have the quick release function to open up fast to clean. Tapepro seems to have products meant to accept the hotmuds better, bazooka heads that come off, fast opening boxes etc. Weather the seals are stronger would be the question ??? but even then, if you had to replace your seals ever few years (not sure how long) your not going to break the bank doing so. Well worth the money spent, compared to the down time, waiting for ap mud to dry.

Maybe Drywallking can tell us if the boyz down under truly do have better hotmuds than us here in North America.:whistling2:

Go leafs go, Canada's team:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Is it mudstar or is it 2buck dear watson????


Mudstar is a real person, I could tell you where he lives, but I would never do that. I can say we both work in the same type market, Very tight pricing, very competitive, Large drywall companies rule and the union was brought in to counter against them. That means he could be anywhere from Ontario to BC.:whistling2:

He is actually a nice guy when talking by PM. His main concern (when I first joined this site) Was too much free secrets of the trade were being handed out on this site. wannabees and even worse, general contractors, could pick up on what we were saying, by pass us, and attempt to do things on their own. He wanted to see a tighter membership on drywall talk, where only pro's could join..... (not sure how you would do that). We had a market years ago, where you had to apprentice under a master taper. (meaning, a guy who worked 10 years or more for a large DWC, and was in constant employment, b/c he was good) So you had to know someone to get into the trade, you paid your dues by working under said taper, were taught the secrets of the trade, and slowly bought the tools over time, in the hopes you could be out on your own some day, and make the big bucks, which you use to:whistling2:

Some say the tools being bought to the open market (not rented from Ames) Destroyed the market. Taping was a number one trade in pay. So everyone suddenly was a journeyman taper, b/c mommy and daddy bought junior a tool set, and they were going to be a taper, buy cutting the throats of established tapers. So in comes the Union to control the market. It has controlled it in some ways, it's in the best interest of DWC to keep the best workers now. The prices don't yo - yo up and down no more, and it has kept the Mexicans under control,,,,, so far. (they half to work for rate).

So I see why Mudstar comes on here to bash, I have been where he is. He might even bash me for my comments right now:yes:. In some ways I think his fears are un founded though. You can tell guys on here the bazooka is the best dam tool for applying tape. And you get attacked for saying so (not u caz).

So there is a lot of Mudstars on here:whistling2:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Well thanks for that, It sheds some light on why he packs such an attitude, He lives near you, has the same views as you :whistling2ont worry your secrets safe with me :thumbup:.

The bazooka IS the best tool for slamming on tapes by far, Its just job size, humidity, Needing to use hotmuds, Trying to work all day on smaller jobs, Not just a few hrs a day and so on that makes you use other tools and options, It all about getting the most money for your day/week and often for me the zooka wont do that, Cause of smaller jobs, BUT, If you have big jobs and heaters and your not running a zooka then your missing out, you really, really are missing out.

Nothings going to reach like a zooka, Do corners like a zooka, Zap out flats like a zooka, I love running a zook, Its great fun, Big ceilings, a wipedownknife on a pole and a bucket for wiping, Hell yeah, Internals and a mudrunner, Mmm hmm, Let this one man band at it, To easy. :thumbup: BUT, I do have a tapepro mudbox to sus out now, Thats going to be fun :yes:


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

yes hott mudd is much better in australia, we call it Base, you must use base to apply tape, it is much stranger than your pro-set, westroc 90 its brown, it drys like concrete so it would not be wise to leave any heavy ridges or dags on the wall... they do sell Hamilton 20 min and 5 min that is kinda like pro-set etc... they dont have con fills or my fav back home Hamilton ultra fill here though, they make a product called Redi-Base which is really nice its a base compound that is air dry, good for the bazooka.. wouldnt worry about blowing a seal in a tube or bazooka due to base i would just take it as i go have spares avaliable like any pro plasterer... Yes tape pro (Blue line) does make more hott mudd products and seems to clean easyer.. but our north american tools are far superior in my mind...


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

cazna said:


> The bazooka IS the best tool for slamming on tapes by far, Its just job size, humidity, Needing to use hotmuds, Trying to work all day on smaller jobs, Not just a few hrs a day and so on that makes you use other tools and options, It all about getting the most money for your day/week and often for me the zooka wont do that, Cause of smaller jobs, BUT, If you have big jobs and heaters and your not running a zooka then your missing out, you really, really are missing out.
> 
> Nothings going to reach like a zooka, Do corners like a zooka, Zap out flats like a zooka, I love running a zook, Its great fun, Big ceilings, a wipedownknife on a pole and a bucket for wiping, Hell yeah, Internals and a mudrunner, Mmm hmm, Let this one man band at it, To easy. :thumbup: BUT, I do have a tapepro mudbox to sus out now, Thats going to be fun :yes:


Agree.

I learned on a banjo (self taught) before going to a bazooka (almost self taught). Still like my banjo for some things, but the bazooka rules when there's some tape to run. Especially when the reach of the bazooka helps make things go so much easier as well, like with stand up board, and corners.

Look forward to hearing what you have to say about the Tapepro mudbox. That banjo version has been a bit of a question to me up till now.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> That's the only problem I see, from all the tales I was told, the hot mud wares out the seals faster on the pumps and boxes. I see some companies promote their pumps are meant for hotmud. Maybe it's just b/c they have the quick release function to open up fast to clean. Tapepro seems to have products meant to accept the hotmuds better, bazooka heads that come off, fast opening boxes etc. Weather the seals are stronger would be the question ??? but even then, if you had to replace your seals ever few years (not sure how long) your not going to break the bank doing so. Well worth the money spent, compared to the down time, waiting for ap mud to dry.
> 
> Maybe Drywallking can tell us if the boyz down under truly do have better hotmuds than us here in North America.:whistling2:
> 
> Go leafs go, Canada's team:thumbup:



I dont know about the hot muds in the US and Canada but I used the same TT pump for and boxes for 10 years with hot mud and never changed a seal. They are still great tools, I only changed to easy clean TT for ease of cleaning. The bottom comes off the pump for better access. And the boxes open out further.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Drywall_King said:


> yes hott mudd is much better in australia, ...




See 2Buck we were right:yes:. We have great metal bead too. But our AP is still garbage.


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> But our AP is still garbage.


but still it does the job.I tape with CSR EZY-FLOW and after i run 1 coat with 7 inch box of base coat on top for strength and never had a problem


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> but still it does the job.I tape with CSR EZY-FLOW and after i run 1 coat with 7 inch box of base coat on top for strength and never had a problem


Is that hotmud over airdry keke?? Big no no for us with our muds here, Yes, I know, Its becouse its full of sheep sh!t. :whistling2:


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

CSR Easy Flow is a air drying AP. Thats the one that I was using when my angle tapes let go. I read what Keke posted and was a little bit puzzled. As far as I knew using base over AP was a big NO NO. But then again I have been wrong before.


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> As far as I knew using base over AP was a big NO NO. .


 why do i use base over AP?
because long time ago i did a big mistake- topping on wet base and result was topcoat and base got mixed.It was like i only put the base and no topcoat.To run bazooka with base is a nightmare and for this i changed the process.Run zooka with AP, fill recessed edge with base let them dry and you have a strong joint.After that I run 10 and 12 inch box with topcoat,sand and at the end everything looks beautiful.IN this way I save time because I dont clean my box so often-as we all know base coat requires cleaning after each mixt


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> I dont know about the hot muds in the US and Canada but I used the same TT pump for and boxes for 10 years with hot mud and never changed a seal. They are still great tools, I only changed to easy clean TT for ease of cleaning. The bottom comes off the pump for better access. And the boxes open out further.


You've owned the same pump for ten years:blink:

hell, I go through a pump every 2 to 3 years, just using AP mud:thumbup:

I just get the DM pump, you can get them for around $200 to $250. Only problem with them,,,,,, it takes about a hour to scrub that little red, white and blue flag off..... with the little stars,,,,, and some stripes on it,,,,, I forget whose flag that is:whistling2:


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I suppose one advantage to using hot mud is that your tools get cleaned out after each use. Thinking about it that must be why we get so long out of a pump. And the other thing is not using a zooka the pump is doing alot less work.

With that flag try this.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> I suppose one advantage to using hot mud is that your tools get cleaned out after each use. Thinking about it that must be why we get so long out of a pump. And the other thing is not using a zooka the pump is doing alot less work.
> 
> With that flag try this.


I will half to try that stuff on that flag, May be getting another pump in a few months:yes:

And not to confuse people, That DM pump is a good little pump. We are abusive to our pumps. Most times we have 2. The newer one we use for the zook, and the older one for everything else. We have the one right now, and it's leaking out the top a tiny bit. We never pump the mud out of them, except sometimes in the winter. Even then, were like "[email protected], forgot to pump the pump out, it's frozen solid again:furious:". We just stick a tim Horton's coffee cup on the bottom of the pump to transport it so...

So for those wondering, the DM pump is not top of the line, nor is it junk. It's a good middle of the road pump, for a fair price. I'm sure if it were cleaned properly all the time, someone would get a good ten years out of it or more:yes:


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I would imagine that the cold is a lot harder on the seals than the heat. Our temp rarely goes much below 0 deg c. The rubber would become more brittle the colder it got. I have never had to replaced a rubber seal on a pump or a box. Maybe it is a combination of cleaning them out and our warmer climate that makes them last longer.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

keke said:


> why do i use base over AP?
> because long time ago i did a big mistake- topping on wet base and result was topcoat and base got mixed.It was like i only put the base and no topcoat.To run bazooka with base is a nightmare and for this i changed the process.Run zooka with AP, fill recessed edge with base let them dry and you have a strong joint.After that I run 10 and 12 inch box with topcoat,sand and at the end everything looks beautiful.IN this way I save time because I dont clean my box so often-as we all know base coat requires cleaning after each mixt



The problem I have with putting base over AP is the moisture problem. AP is an air drying product and Base is a wet product. the thing is the moisture from the base can be absorbed into the AP causing it to come alive again. This can create issues such as tape failure and delamination between the two different products. Having said that I have never tried it as I have never been game enough.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> The problem I have with putting base over AP is the moisture problem. AP is an air drying product and Base is a wet product. the thing is the moisture from the base can be absorbed into the AP causing it to come alive again. This can create issues such as tape failure and delamination between the two different products. Having said that I have never tried it as I have never been game enough.


I wouldnt try that either, The hotmuds here dont like sticking to airdry, It will haunt you.


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> The problem I have with putting base over AP is the moisture problem. AP is an air drying product and Base is a wet product. the thing is the moisture from the base can be absorbed into the AP causing it to come alive again. This can create issues such as tape failure and delamination between the two different products. Having said that I have never tried it as I have never been game enough.


I apply a coat of base before AP dries.Maybe for this reason I dont have problems they dry together


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Very interesting. I will have to think about the science behind that. But that is great that you are having no problems.:yes:


----------



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

keke said:


> I apply a coat of base before AP dries.Maybe for this reason I dont have problems they dry together


I would be very careful using this system , for best results all coats must be dry.I do not think the manufactures would give any guarantee . Remember if you tape with allpurpose all joints must be backblocked ,walls too .


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I box with hot mud ...not hard when you have a sink that goes form job to job...and I pump my mud with out a pump in the bucket.
when doing this I mix two bag of 90 at a time because it goes fast.
if you know me you know how I pump my mud:thumbup:


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> I box with hot mud ...not hard when you have a sink that goes form job to job...and I pump my mud with out a pump in the bucket.
> when doing this I mix two bag of 90 at a time because it goes fast.
> if you know me you know how I pump my mud:thumbup:


have not done it this way in a long time ....ff changed me


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> You've owned the same pump for ten years:blink:
> 
> hell, I go through a pump every 2 to 3 years, just using AP mud:thumbup:
> 
> I just get the DM pump, you can get them for around $200 to $250. Only problem with them,,,,,, it takes about a hour to scrub that little red, white and blue flag off..... with the little stars,,,,, and some stripes on it,,,,, I forget whose flag that is:whistling2:


your crazy buckhuck canuck ever hear of a rebuild kit or jus dropping pump in water before you run
it


----------



## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Unfortunateley over here in AUS we have no choice but to use hot mud . We can only use allpurpose ect on joins if all joins are back blocked walls too .This means we have to glue a scap bit of sheet on the back side of all joins .So its just not worth it . Then there is the issue with it drying , would just take too long where i live in Tassie


Say what?


----------



## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

I just did 3 12x12 rooms, mixed 120 vario compound, ran all the flats, with 10 box, had lunch, went back mixed another batch, ran the 12 box.....no tape, no cracks great finish and 1/3 less time...easy money!!!


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

spacklinfool said:


> I just did 3 12x12 rooms, mixed 120 vario compound, ran all the flats, with 10 box, had lunch, went back mixed another batch, ran the 12 box.....no tape, no cracks great finish and 1/3 less time...easy money!!!


Im still itching to try vario! The idea of not applying tape blows my mind.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Im still itching to try vario! The idea of not applying tape blows my mind.


Sure as hell all sh*t would break loose if the agents saw no tape going on!!
They r still trying 2 get used 2 the 2 boxin I am doing now:yes:
Its all down 2 u guys on here that I do the 2 box thing:thumbsup:
Still would like 2 try and c,but not sure about the phone calls that could follow


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Im still itching to try vario! The idea of not applying tape blows my mind.


We are trying to get some in through our distributor to try on a house. Except we will mesh all the joints then use the vario. Don't trust it enough to not put tape on them of some kind. I may sneak into a room and use it with no tape but I won't tell the builder :jester:. I'm thinking if it can work with no tape then it should work better with fiberglass. Should be able to do the houses a bit faster as well with no shrinking back. All the angles will be paper taped of course and finished as usual.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

spacklinfool said:


> I just did 3 12x12 rooms, mixed 120 vario compound, ran all the flats, with 10 box, had lunch, went back mixed another batch, ran the 12 box.....no tape, no cracks great finish and 1/3 less time...easy money!!!


Someone (Slim Pickins?) mentioned on here awhile ago that they got some cracking with the 120 - which is a newer formula. It would be interesting to hear if you have any such problems down the road.

The 45 minute has been around a long enough time and proved itself, from the sounds of it. I'm thinking maybe the 45 minute might still be the way to go(?)

Maybe Rebel can answer on this, if he still comes around.


----------



## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I got some vario a while back.I like it as a hot mud but would recomend using mesh wit it.it's a nic working hot mud,too bad its so hard to get where I live.


----------



## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

Back when I worked in the mobil home manufacturing industry they were running quick set through the tools but they had these big heated tubs that they'd throw the tools in after. They had lots of money to waste too. Tools are too expensive to be treated that way. I'd probably only do this in a pinch.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> We are trying to get some in through our distributor to try on a house. Except we will mesh all the joints then use the vario. Don't trust it enough to not put tape on them of some kind. I may sneak into a room and use it with no tape but I won't tell the builder :jester:. I'm thinking if it can work with no tape then it should work better with fiberglass. Should be able to do the houses a bit faster as well with no shrinking back. All the angles will be paper taped of course and finished as usual.


Tom Shepler 704-202-4625 NC.


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

how I do it http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/how-ice-pumps-his-mud-4893/


----------

