# What Method do you use for missed or hanging screws?



## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

I will be upfront. I remove any missed screw, I wet the screw hole with compound and tuck it in with the corner of the hammer end of my knife before reapplying compound and whiping it down again. I can't stand the tappy the screw deal. I've done enough repair work to know that any dent on the surface of the board releases the bond of the paper to the gypsum behind it. Thought, comparisons, or unusual tricks?


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Krsw85 said:


> I will be upfront. I remove any missed screw, I wet the screw hole with compound and tuck it in with the corner of the hammer end of my knife before reapplying compound and whiping it down again. I can't stand the tappy the screw deal. I've done enough repair work to know that any dent on the surface of the board releases the bond of the paper to the gypsum behind it. Thought, comparisons, or unusual tricks?


If I can b assed I will pull the missed screw! If not hit it and cover it!
Misses that have been taken back out then if again I can b assed I will pull the loose paper and fill!
If I cant b assed then its the painters problem!:thumbup:


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

Exactly same as the original post.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

What exactly is assed? Lol. Yea if the are bad I tear the loose paper. You will never see me tape with a hammer lol. Ive found a few recently that were just smacked in and coated. The problem was that the screw was too close to the stud and they act just like a screw pop.... and bubble because the sheet got dented and didn't get repaired.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Krsw85 said:


> What exactly is assed? Lol. Yea if the are bad I tear the loose paper. You will never see me tape with a hammer lol. Ive found a few recently that were just smacked in and coated. The problem was that the screw was too close to the stud and they act just like a screw pop.... and bubble because the sheet got dented and didn't get repaired.


If I can b bothered to do it right!(Assed)
If its only a few then yea I will fix but if its a joke then f*ck them its some1 else's problem!:thumbup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

It's loose paper. A blister. 

20 coats over a blister Is still a blister. 

I peal them out. 

The best thang for the hanger to do is to twist the screw out instead of jerking it out. But good luck with that!! :whistling2:


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## krafty (Jun 30, 2016)

Hey, im a hanger this week, easy!

Sent from my LGL16C using Tapatalk


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

krafty said:


> Hey, im a hanger this week, easy!
> 
> Sent from my LGL16C using Tapatalk


And I was last week. And yes...I missed a few studs.:yes:


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

Haha no doubt. I like hanging my own stuff, or specific people hang got me. I can't get some of these guys to back cut the last sheet on an outside 90, or atleast get it close to flush, their reasoning, if we dont do this and leave tgis giant gappy corner, it makes the bead wavy... Im like no no it wont, just leave them hanging I'll back cut them my self.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I fuse it with my hammer fuse tip dimpler


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Its not that hard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsIHKxs6Y60


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

gazman said:


> Its not that hard.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsIHKxs6Y60


Hahahaha LOL!:thumbup:
U hit the nail on the head!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Ah hahaha. Yep that's what I do too.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gazman said:


> Its not that hard.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsIHKxs6Y60


That would work fine with a dense board .. but the light weight boards we have here can't take a screw being pulled /jerked out without being peeled . The boards are soft ... pushing in a screw miss like that on a l/w board would cause a blister that will be seen after paint . No matter how many coats you put over it.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

moore said:


> That would work fine with a dense board .. but the light weight boards we have here can't take a screw being pulled /jerked out without being peeled . The boards are soft ... pushing in a screw miss like that on a l/w board would cause a blister that will be seen after paint . No matter how many coats you put over it.


Really?? Man what a b!tch? Our boards more lightweight than it was but I can do what gaz showed with no troubles.

How the hell do you peel it?? Those cone shaped sanding stone bits on a dremal, Would that hone one out and remove the paper?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> Really?? Man what a b!tch? Our boards more lightweight than it was but I can do what gaz showed with no troubles.
> 
> How the hell do you peel it?? Those cone shaped sanding stone bits on a dremal, Would that hone one out and remove the paper?


I just peel them out with my dirty finger nail .


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Do you. Fingers or toes lol


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> Do you. Fingers or toes lol


You don't wanna see my toes!! :whistling2:


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

If the screw is still in the paper, I wedge the side of a 6" knife into the threads and use a phillips screw driver to unscrew the screw. I always first coat screws with thick taping compound. Never light weight. I put mud over the miss. And gently press it in with the hammer head from same knife to reglue the paper. I don't actually spot it till the second time around. If I spot it wet there is more a chance of it blistering. Taping mud or good all purpose is key to first coat on screws.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

moore said:


> That would work fine with a dense board .. but the light weight boards we have here can't take a screw being pulled /jerked out without being peeled . The boards are soft ... pushing in a screw miss like that on a l/w board would cause a blister that will be seen after paint . No matter how many coats you put over it.


Man I didn't realise that your board was THAT BAD. That sucks. I first coat with stiff hot mud then A/P from there.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

I always keep a little 3" knife with me for that, every once in a while it'll screw up a blade.... definately better to turn them out.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

gazman said:


> Its not that hard.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsIHKxs6Y60


Lol.... good video man... it's hard to get anyone around here to do anything like that.... they like to leave a dead screw in the wall and smash it in. Its fast but not quite right. Within a few years its popped because its touching the edge of a stud and what they dented becomes a blister


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## Pinkalink (Mar 19, 2017)

*Screws*

Hey, what we do is use the opposite end of our taping knives to bevel the screw hole in. A hammer is overkill and potentially damage the drywall further, if the screw is not deep enough, use a Phillips screw driver to set in the correct depth. If its too deep, it has proably "poped" the drywall and you need to place a screw or two on either side to stop movement in that spot. If there is damage, such as the paper has let go, use either your taping knife or a untitly blade to dig out all loose material and fill.


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