# fiba fuse tape peaking !!



## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

took over a house last week that the home owner fired the finishers that were doing the job.....what a mess ! all taper seams were hair line cracked and taped with mesh tape , corners were done with paper tape but blisters every where. texture on ceiling was unreal.....so what we did was remove all the tape out of the corners and mesh tape out of the taper seams on walls, removed the texture that was on the ceiling "all taper seams on ceiling were cracked" prefilled all gaps in corners and taped corners with paper tape and did the taper seams with fiba fuse. we were able to get most if not all the mud out of the taper seams on the walls. on the ceilings we taped over the taper seams with fiba fuse. did 3 coats like I always do on all seams , everything was going good until today when we textured the ceilings the fiba fuse was peaking but I cant blame it on the fiba fuse coz not every taper seam did it and the seams that did peak they didn't peak the whole way. have had forced air heat the entire job set @ 65 deg. what really has me confused is why didn't those areas peak when I mudded the seams ? checked the walls and no signs of peaking anywhere. so before we left for the day we went to the garage and checked it coz I didn't even start out there yet and the other finishers had mesh tape in the tapers and even that mud is peaking........I do know when the other finishers were there it was being heated with a turbo heater and kero. heaters........ any input would help guys !!!


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

I been using perf tape and have had such success with it i dont go anywhere else,

do you let your tapes dry over night...

i wont load over wet tape unless I have internal heat in the house,

I would bet 2 bucks it was not dry under and to say I turn my heat to 70 at night


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

I've seen this repeatedly with light weight rock on ceilings. Walls are fine. My theory is this-
The LW rock takes on moisture and swells. The wider the ceiling the more it swells. The seams closest to the center of the room are the worst and on ceilings less than eight feet wide ( two sheets) it is hardly noticeable at all. Also the walls have only one seam which allows them some movement. Tall walls- twelve feet or more will do the same thing.

Light weight sheetrock is absolute garbage. Proven time and time again.

I will not tape a house with it on the ceilings. Period.

Just my two cents worth.


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

mld said:


> I've seen this repeatedly with light weight rock on ceilings. Walls are fine. My theory is this-
> The LW rock takes on moisture and swells. The wider the ceiling the more it swells. The seams closest to the center of the room are the worst and on ceilings less than eight feet wide ( two sheets) it is hardly noticeable at all. Also the walls have only one seam which allows them some movement. Tall walls- twelve feet or more will do the same thing.
> 
> Light weight sheetrock is absolute garbage. Proven time and time again.
> ...


I'm going to agree with you 100% !! when I left the job today I was wondering the same thing so I looked in the dumpster to see if I could find any buckets of mud in there and the buckets I was able to see were usg blue lid light weight !! every thing I did was done with mid weight usg. do you think that with me not removing all the compound out of the taper seams on the ceiling screwed me ? I thought going over the seams with fiba fuse and coating it before texturing it that it would be o.k. all the seams were dry between coats.

miss understood you.......5/8" on ceilings - that's what the home owner told me any how. I could not tell because everything was mudded when I 1st seen the house but will look further into it tomorrow.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

still think paper tape is stronger than fiba F, flash it out with hot mud ok:blink:


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

mld said:


> I've seen this repeatedly with light weight rock on ceilings. Walls are fine. My theory is this-
> The LW rock takes on moisture and swells. The wider the ceiling the more it swells. The seams closest to the center of the room are the worst and on ceilings less than eight feet wide ( two sheets) it is hardly noticeable at all. Also the walls have only one seam which allows them some movement. Tall walls- twelve feet or more will do the same thing.
> 
> Light weight sheetrock is absolute garbage. Proven time and time again.
> ...


 Totally agree.

The only way I do them if I prime them. When I do its a pain in the ass but does help. When priming spray all ceilings first, Run fans and dehumidifier. While cracking a window or two. Let ceiling primer dry then spray out rooms and closets. Remove plastic from windows to avoid collecting moisture. Runs lots of fans and dehumidifier. Cross your fingers


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

I spent all day yesterday with the usg rep for our area as my tapes were peaking where the bevels meet. most areas on the top floor. The rep figured that it was from broken bevels from the stockers. I said it was from the painters using watered down paint to try and prime and do the first coat of paint on the drywall at the same time, soaking my joints. Anyways this was on a " primed home" ( air quotes ). I cut out a chunk of board where the tape was peaking , couldnt pull the fiba fuse apart, board bevels were not broken, enough mud behind ,through, and over the tape. Very frustrating. 
So off to the next home that I had second coated. Looks really good and flat until you put a good light source on the joints then you can see the fiba fuse peaking where the bevels meet.Once I rough sanded the peaking went away. Ran a 12 inch box over joints and after awhile the tape was peaking through again in spots. I know it goes away after I sand again, but have a pretty good guess, that as soon as the paint hits the joints the tapes will peak again. Went to a home that another taper just put flat tapes on. you could see the folded and accordion areas of the paper tape, then went to a " Primed House" again air quotes, that was paper taped. No areas peaking. I went to another of my homes that was , air quote primed, and no peaking anywhere except in 1 but joint , in a great room wall that is 20' high. went to a few more paper taped homes and no peaking anywhere. 
So long story short, because the only unknown variable is the fiba fuse tape, that is what it is being blamed on. I am probably 1 of a handfull of people in the city that uses fiba fuse, so they figure there is not enough history on the product to eliminate it as the problem. I know it is the watered down paint that they spray that causes all the problems with our finishing:furious:, but have no backup. So if Fiba fuse is watching , I could use some back up


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

taper71 said:


> I spent all day yesterday with the usg rep for our area as my tapes were peaking where the bevels meet. most areas on the top floor. The rep figured that it was from broken bevels from the stockers. I said it was from the painters using watered down paint to try and prime and do the first coat of paint on the drywall at the same time, soaking my joints. Anyways this was on a " primed home" ( air quotes ). I cut out a chunk of board where the tape was peaking , couldnt pull the fiba fuse apart, board bevels were not broken, enough mud behind ,through, and over the tape. Very frustrating.
> So off to the next home that I had second coated. Looks really good and flat until you put a good light source on the joints then you can see the fiba fuse peaking where the bevels meet.Once I rough sanded the peaking went away. Ran a 12 inch box over joints and after awhile the tape was peaking through again in spots. I know it goes away after I sand again, but have a pretty good guess, that as soon as the paint hits the joints the tapes will peak again. Went to a home that another taper just put flat tapes on. you could see the folded and accordion areas of the paper tape, then went to a " Primed House" again air quotes, that was paper taped. No areas peaking. I went to another of my homes that was , air quote primed, and no peaking anywhere except in 1 but joint , in a great room wall that is 20' high. went to a few more paper taped homes and no peaking anywhere.
> So long story short, because the only unknown variable is the fiba fuse tape, that is what it is being blamed on. I am probably 1 of a handfull of people in the city that uses fiba fuse, so they figure there is not enough history on the product to eliminate it as the problem. I know it is the watered down paint that they spray that causes all the problems with our finishing:furious:, but have no backup. So if Fiba fuse is watching , I could use some back up


what mud do you use on your tape coat?


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Taping mud Usg's ( synco lite taping ), sometimes certainteed taping mud, but all compounds and board were usg on my last 3 homes. Thats why I had the rep there, even the board ( sheetrock light weight ) is theirs.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> I spent all day yesterday with the usg rep for our area as my tapes were peaking where the bevels meet. most areas on the top floor. The rep figured that it was from broken bevels from the stockers. I said it was from the painters using watered down paint to try and prime and do the first coat of paint on the drywall at the same time, soaking my joints. Anyways this was on a " primed home" ( air quotes ). I cut out a chunk of board where the tape was peaking , couldnt pull the fiba fuse apart, board bevels were not broken, enough mud behind ,through, and over the tape. Very frustrating.
> So off to the next home that I had second coated. Looks really good and flat until you put a good light source on the joints then you can see the fiba fuse peaking where the bevels meet.Once I rough sanded the peaking went away. Ran a 12 inch box over joints and after awhile the tape was peaking through again in spots. I know it goes away after I sand again, but have a pretty good guess, that as soon as the paint hits the joints the tapes will peak again. Went to a home that another taper just put flat tapes on. you could see the folded and accordion areas of the paper tape, then went to a " Primed House" again air quotes, that was paper taped. No areas peaking. I went to another of my homes that was , air quote primed, and no peaking anywhere except in 1 but joint , in a great room wall that is 20' high. went to a few more paper taped homes and no peaking anywhere.
> So long story short, because the only unknown variable is the fiba fuse tape, that is what it is being blamed on. I am probably 1 of a handfull of people in the city that uses fiba fuse, so they figure there is not enough history on the product to eliminate it as the problem. I know it is the watered down paint that they spray that causes all the problems with our finishing:furious:, but have no backup. So if Fiba fuse is watching , I could use some back up


As I've already said, I've quit using FF on such as butt joints. Last experience with it peaking, that I may have already mentioned elsewhere:

3 flat older 8' stand up wood type panels in a basement, that had been painted in the past, and they wanted the joints disappeared. One FF tape peaked all the way along when I 1st coated it later, while the other one didn't. I replaced the one that peaked with paper tape and it didn't peak after. Why the one peaked and not the other, I still don't know. Same roll of FF tape, same mud, with one joint done right after the other.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Ya I almost have to agree , even though I really don t want to go back to paper, but as I look at the fibafuse, there is definitely a lack of fibers where they put the crease in the tape. That being said I do not understand why the fibafuse would peak. Not all the time , but enough to become a problem, if that is the problem. Unfortunately the industry will not change if it is a board or prime problem for a handfull of people that uses a new product. It always is the first to blame


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

taper71 said:


> even the board ( sheetrock light weight ) is theirs.


I've never used the Certainteed L/W ..But the national and USG L/W Boards are like a sponge!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Ya I almost have to agree , even though I really don t want to go back to paper, but as I look at the fibafuse, there is definitely a lack of fibers where they put the crease in the tape. That being said I do not understand why the fibafuse would peak. Not all the time , but enough to become a problem, if that is the problem. Unfortunately the industry will not change if it is a board or prime problem for a handfull of people that uses a new product. It always is the first to blame


I'm thinking 2 different type rolls of FF might solve the problem. One with the crease, for using in corners, and one type without the crease, for everywhere else. I'd switch out between the 2.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

The certainteed board is really bad here, usg sheetrock is better, but still garbage imo. Unfortunately it is not going anywhere, because as the rep said, there is way more people that like it than dont. Also mentioned that it leaves their plant perfect, but they have no control over how the suppliers handle, store, and stock it, which ,they figure is where the problems with the board comes from. Most homes here that I finish have un poured basements, and a 240 heater, or a furnace with no duct work in. Heats the basement nice , but no consistent heat through out homes.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

JustMe said:


> I'm thinking 2 different type rolls of FF might solve the problem. One with the crease, for using in corners, and one type without the crease, for everywhere else. I'd switch out between the 2.


agree, I think I will go back to paper for flats and buts, but keep the fuse for corners for now. I have sent a message to fibafuse to see what they have to say.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I call bull on the board leaving the factory perfect!


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

fr8train said:


> I call bull on the board leaving the factory perfect!


Ya I told him that as well while showing him all the high shoulders in my home:furious: Also told him manufacturers have millwrights to keep the **** machines working at your except-able level. Not mine.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> agree, I think I will go back to paper for flats and buts, but keep the fuse for corners for now. I have sent a message to fibafuse to see what they have to say.


Guys like saskataper and Toontowntaper aren't too far from you, so they might be seeing the same board as you. They're also running FF. Wonder how it's working with them.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

taper71 said:


> agree, I think I will go back to paper for flats and buts, but keep the fuse for corners for now. I have sent a message to fibafuse to see what they have to say.


I sent one that said the same thing a year ago....so I have cut my own 2 inch rolls or I put mesh on my butts first then ff over that...both way I never have any peak a boo on my ff...
I think I have a post out there on ff butt tape

http://drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?p=92961#post92961

what I like to do is offset the mesh tape on the butt so when I mesh over the butt I line the ff on the mesh so the center of the ff in not on the crack of the butt ....then I wipe it with my rubber knife.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

icerock drywall said:


> I sent one that said the same thing a year ago....so I have cut my own 2 inch rolls or I put mesh on my butts first then ff over that...both way I never have any peak a boo on my ff...
> I think I have a post out there on ff butt tape
> 
> http://drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?p=92961#post92961


Thats too much work for these cheapo production builders. Its all about get it up and worry about fixing later, only if the purchasers, bitch loud enough to cause a problem for them:furious:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

taper71 said:


> Thats too much work for these cheapo production builders. Its all about get it up and worry about fixing later, only if the purchasers, bitch loud enough to cause a problem for them:furious:



I Know who you work for !:yes:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

taper71 said:


> Thats too much work for these cheapo production builders. Its all about get it up and worry about fixing later, only if the purchasers, bitch loud enough to cause a problem for them:furious:


 what is to much work? put mesh on the butts? how many butts are there in a house ....when you have a good hanger:blink: 
try it on one butt you might like it:thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> what is to much work? put mesh on the butts? how many butts are there in a house ....when you have a good hanger:blink:
> try it on one butt you might like it:thumbsup:


Not many butts in the houses I've done. Much more in commercial.

I've got some gasket material sheets for things like air motors - very strong, very thin. I've thought that something like that for things like just butt joints could be good - would be easy and fast to coat out. I'd pay extra for rolls of such.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Not many butts in the houses I've done. Much more in commercial.
> 
> I've got some gasket material sheets for things like air motors - very strong, very thin. I've thought that something like that for things like just butt joints could be good - would be easy and fast to coat out. I'd pay extra for rolls of such.


 I will take a roll:thumbup:

Icerock drywall
229 N Simmons
Stockton ILL 61085


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> I will take a roll:thumbup:
> 
> Icerock drywall
> 229 N Simmons
> Stockton ILL 61085


I'll add it to my innovation company's 'To do' list.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

JustMe said:


> I'll add it to my innovation company's 'To do' list.


Or maybe someone like Trim-Tex - who is into consumable products, specialty items, and has an already extensive existing distribution system with drywall distributors - might be interested/willing to pick up on such an idea(?) I'll do a bit of follow up on that.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Or maybe someone like Trim-Tex - who is into consumable products, specialty items, and has an already extensive existing distribution system with drywall distributors - might be interested/willing to pick up on such an idea(?) I'll do a bit of follow up on that.


I am going to see joe on the 27th:thumbup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> I am going to see joe on the 27th:thumbup:


Great. I just sent him a message on it. You could maybe discuss it with him, as well.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

taper71 said:


> Taping mud Usg's ( synco lite taping ), sometimes certainteed taping mud, but all compounds and board were usg on my last 3 homes. Thats why I had the rep there, even the board ( sheetrock light weight ) is theirs.


I would say use a different mud, we use our NZ hot mud for taping and haven't had a problem, one of my clients consistently wins the "house of the year" competitions and they are checked with a fine tooth comb.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> I would say use a different mud, we use our NZ hot mud for taping and haven't had a problem, one of my clients consistently wins the "house of the year" competitions and they are checked with a fine tooth comb.


Your hot muds sound like they're better than ours.

I've used the same taping muds with FF as taper71 did, and a few AP muds thrown in. Have had a bit of peaking grief with most all of them the last while, when it came to FibaFuse. I don't recall it having been a problem when I 1st started using FF at times ~3 years ago.

Is it the tape? The mud? The board? Why what I already posted as happening with the older 8' wood type material stand ups - material from probably the 1970s - still isn't something I can figure out. One strip peaking and the other not. Maybe went back over the one once too often when wiping them down? When the one had already set up a little much?


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

JustMe said:


> Your hot muds sound like they're better than ours.
> 
> I've used the same taping muds with FF as taper71 did, and a few AP muds thrown in. Have had a bit of peaking grief with most all of them the last while, when it came to FibaFuse. I don't recall it having been a problem when I 1st started using FF at times ~3 years ago.
> 
> Is it the tape? The mud? The board? Why what I already posted as happening with the older 8' wood type material stand ups - material from probably the 1970s - still isn't something I can figure out. One strip peaking and the other not. Maybe went back over the one once too often when wiping them down? When the one had already set up a little much?


This is why I think , I will be going back to paper, unless Fibafuse has an answer and a solution. I do not mind paying double for a product that is going to give me less headaches , but I need back up and less headaches.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Think they changed anything with the FF when they went main stream and had to up production? Now that you can buy it at Lowe's, they may have had to change something.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

fr8train said:


> Think they changed anything with the FF when they went main stream and had to up production? Now that you can buy it at Lowe's, they may have had to change something.


Made it more cheaply, to get the price down for such as Lowe's?

Selling a product like that to my customers would be a bit of a concern to me, if I was Lowe's. I could see some people getting mad at Lowe's for selling it to them, when some problems from not knowing how to use it properly start to show up.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Fitbafuse and mesh are good for patches only IMO. Papertape is still the king and the best product to use for your customers/ clients.:thumbsup:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

JustMe said:


> Made it more cheaply, to get the price down for such as Lowe's?
> 
> Selling a product like that to my customers would be a bit of a concern to me, if I was Lowe's. I could see some people getting mad at Lowe's for selling it to them, when some problems from not knowing how to use it properly start to show up.


I wouldn't go as far as say make it more cheaply, but perhaps rush production and/or relax quality control.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

JustMe said:


> I'm thinking 2 different type rolls of FF might solve the problem. One with the crease, for using in corners, and one type without the crease, for everywhere else. I'd switch out between the 2.


I thought exactly the same thing as I was reading the earlier posts.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

fr8train said:


> I call bull on the board leaving the factory perfect!


Something does happen to it Fr8, but I am not sure what. When we did a tour of the plant last year the board looked really nice,:thumbup: they even run it through a booth with glancing light on the boards. But and it is a big butt, I have not seen ANY BOARD on site as good as I seen at the plant.:furious:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

JustMe said:


> I'm thinking 2 different type rolls of FF might solve the problem. One with the crease, for using in corners, and one type without the crease, for everywhere else. I'd switch out between the 2.


Or try the Icemans idea of running a wide roll through a band saw to make your own 2" rolls without the center crease, should be cheaper per roll too.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

chris said:


> Fitbafuse and mesh are good for patches only IMO. Papertape is still the king and the best product to use for your customers/ clients.:thumbsup:


never had a problem with the mesh but always I use it with hot mud


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

There is usually more lineal foot of flats than inside corners on most projects. I AGREE there should be thicker paper no crease for the flats and same old creased products for the angles. Paper MFG. Or Fiba Fuse you guys should request that they do this for you. 

As far as Trim-Tex getting involved and developing something, not going to happen. We have spent 44 years innovating products that don't use paper or metal in the ingredient list.

Have a great day!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

....


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> Or try the Icemans idea of running a wide roll through a band saw to make your own 2" rolls without the center crease, should be cheaper per roll too.


I'm wondering if those wide rolls come with a center cardboard tube that's of a size that would fit onto a bazooka's tape holder.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

JustMe said:


> I'm wondering if those wide rolls come with a center cardboard tube that's of a size that would fit onto a bazooka's tape holder.


Yip, just checked and they have an identical center tube.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> Yip, just checked and they have an identical center tube.


Beauty. Thanks, K-man.

So how many rolls for a bazooka could one get from a wide FF roll? And what would they cost per roll, excluding the labour to make them, and how would that price compare to regular priced FF rolls? Keeping in mind that some will have higher prices because of various factors, such as shipping to places like NZ.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

I just checked All-Wall's FF price and Home Depot's - All-Wall is 55.00/roll while Home Depot is 19.00/roll and sold online only (U.S. only?). Wonder if there's a quality difference.

http://www.all-wall.com/FibaFuse-Paperless-Wall-Reinforcement.html

http://www.homedepot.com/p/FibaFuse...wall-Joint-Tape-FDW8443-U-FDW8443-U/204117962


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Allowing for a bit of cutting wasteage, I'm figuring you should get 16-17 150' 2" rolls from 1-36" wide roll.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

I get 15 and a wide roll for patching. And, yes the HD rolls are the same as the all-wall rolls, and sometimes they send you an extra roll!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

mld said:


> I get 15 and a wide roll for patching. And, yes the HD rolls are the same as the all-wall rolls, and sometimes they send you an extra roll!


Great. Thanks, mld.

So HD is getting a serious buying price difference from such as All-Wall? &/Or such as All-Wall marks it up just that much more than HD as well?


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Well I just got back from fixing that fibafuse peaked tape house. I left a small bathroom alone, and went and found some paint that they use on there homes. I am pretty confident that after a rough sand the paint will cover that peak. It is so minute that it looks like paint roller edges along where the bevels meet. The joints are as flat as I can make them with these high shoulders, like its not a peak , but more of a shadow that looks like paint roller marks. You can only see them with a 300 watt bulb shining close to the wall.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

JustMe said:


> Great. Thanks, mld.
> 
> So HD is getting a serious buying price difference from such as All-Wall? &/Or such as All-Wall marks it up just that much more than HD as well?


Not sure about that but I won't look a gift horse in the mouth:whistling2:

Back to the peaking issue, I believe that it is a board issue not a tape issue. Paper tape just hides it better. All the problems with LW board are going to come back for years down the line. I, like most of the guys on here have tried countless ways of taping and finishing and most of them would have worked fine in the past. Now it seems none of them are bulletproof. The corporate reps would have us believe that we all just became ****ty finishers all of a sudden.I DON'T THINK SO!!!!!!!
How many times do we have to go faithful contractors with callback issues and sound like complete incompetents because time proven methods fail? Yes, I agree that FF is a great product, but being the new kid on the block, it does become the scapegoat


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

There are so many different things that can causeproblems in drywall. From shoddy work, materials, and environmental issues. Sometimes the issues don't manifest until months later. Yet, it always come back on us. We didn't finish right, or we used the wrong materials, blah blah blah. Nevermind that the lumber pack came from the lowest bidder, no heat/air or power installed. Etc etc.


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## jeff2go (May 19, 2014)

*use hot mud*

use hot mud. it wont give the area time to start trouble. always works for me


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Well a sand and a paint did not hide it. I had to re-coat. Also no response from Fibafuse. :furious:


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I've never seen it happen on bevels. But often on butts. I still blame the ****ty ultralight board. Only fix I have found is spraying the joint with kills after sand, that seals it up and prevents the moisture from the primer getting back into it.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

taper71 said:


> Well a sand and a paint did not hide it. I had to re-coat. Also no response from Fibafuse. :furious:


I never get a response from Fibafuse as well...I was thinking about going to paper


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

saskataper said:


> I've never seen it happen on bevels. But often on butts. I still blame the ****ty ultralight board. Only fix I have found is spraying the joint with kills after sand, that seals it up and prevents the moisture from the primer getting back into it.


I agree the board doesn't help, my other job has bad high shoulders and the fibafuse is peaking through as well. It goes away after I sand, but I can be 95% sure it will come through again when the painters apply the heavily watered down primer coat so thick that it soaks my joints. All I can really say is that without support from Fibafuse, I will be going back to paper.


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

I think mud. why, **** it!


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## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

any news? I still follow this thread, just bought 2 rolls of ff, but not sure if I will use it.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Pytlik said:


> any news? I still follow this thread, just bought 2 rolls of ff, but not sure if I will use it.


 well I am using mudmax with ap mud with my ff ....cost more but I want to be safe


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Switched back to paper. I refuse to support a product that will not give me support . Mud max be dam , I don t think its an adhesion problem, I think its the crease in the fibafuse + the crap light weight board + the crap site conditions + wet wood framing + incompetent light checkers , + painters that do not prime or put it on too thick with watered down paint. Crap Im fighting a losing battle before I walk through the door. Oh well NEXT


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Switched back to paper. I refuse to support a product that will not give me support . Mud max be dam , I don t think its an adhesion problem, I think its the crease in the fibafuse + the crap light weight board + the crap site conditions + wet wood framing + incompetent light checkers , + painters that do not prime or put it on too thick with watered down paint. Crap Im fighting a losing battle before I walk through the door. Oh well NEXT


Speaking of support: Joe from Trim-Tex included in a message to me the other day that he passed on the idea of non creased FibaFuse to Myron Ferguson, who works for St. Gobain - makers of FF. So maybe something will happen from that.
Joe also said he'll try to do some testing, as well. :thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Speaking of support: Joe from Trim-Tex included in a message to me the other day that he passed on the idea of non creased FibaFuse to Myron Ferguson, who works for St. Gobain - makers of FF. So maybe something will happen from that.
> Joe also said he'll try to do some testing, as well. :thumbsup:


I was there ...I almost forgot I need to sent joe some 2'' ff thanks justme


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> I was there ...I almost forgot I need to sent joe some 2'' ff thanks justme


He mentioned you were there, and had talked about non-creased FF.

I've also still got to send Joe some of the thin material I was using to make gaskets for an air motor, to see if it might be a direction for such as specialty butt joint tape. Once I can find it in my shop of horrors. Shop is a real mess right now.
He said it's something he's also willing to look into for us. :thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> He mentioned you were there, and had talked about non-creased FF.
> 
> I've also still got to send Joe some of the thin material I was using to make gaskets for an air motor, to see if it might be a direction for such as specialty butt joint tape. Once I can find it in my shop of horrors. Shop is a real mess right now.
> He said it's something he's also willing to look into for us. :thumbsup:


 I think the rubber is cool...I would like to try it!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> I think the rubber is cool...I would like to try it!


Not rubber, ice, but more a film like material. The air motor I mentioned has very tight machined tolerances.

As I told Joe, there's Very likely something better out there than what I have, but it's a direction that I think is worth exploring.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Not rubber, ice, but more a film like material. The air motor I mentioned has very tight machined tolerances.
> 
> As I told Joe, there's Very likely something better out there than what I have, but it's a direction that I think is worth exploring.


have you tried it on a butt yet?


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Ive never used FF until today. I see why people use it now. Its very easy to coat. 
I still cut a V in the cracks and prefilled before using the stuff but it was fun to use. 
I always thought the stuff was for basement rock since its mold resistant. Lol. 
Thanks for the heads up on this stuff. I never would have used it if i didnt read about it here first. Thanks. 
Here that FF? Might want to rethink who you choose to ignore..:whistling2:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Magic said:


> Ive never used FF until today. I see why people use it now. Its very easy to coat.
> I still cut a V in the cracks and prefilled before using the stuff but it was fun to use.
> I always thought the stuff was for basement rock since its mold resistant. Lol.
> Thanks for the heads up on this stuff. I never would have used it if i didnt read about it here first. Thanks.
> Here that FF? Might want to rethink who you choose to ignore..:whistling2:


now you need the 36'' roll ....you will see its magic:thumbup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

my next job I do there will be no seam in my ff.... I will see how that works in the corners


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

icerock drywall said:


> my next job I do there will be no seam in my ff.... I will see how that works in the corners


You going to cut a big roll of ff into a 2 inch roll?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Corey The Taper said:


> You going to cut a big roll of ff into a 2 inch roll?


yes. the rolls are small but I will get the test done. I am going to call a new friend...he has a little pull in ff and see If I can get some test rolls


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## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

icerock drywall said:


> well I am using mudmax with ap mud with my ff ....cost more but I want to be safe


ok, thx. think I will try with hotmud on a very small job to try it..


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Hi Cole, We're not familiar with the term “Peaked”, but guessing from the reference to where bevels meet we assume the tape is protruding out along the center of the tape along the drywall seam. This is an issue that can happen with paper tape as well. This could happen if too much compound is left behind the tape or if compound is applied over the tape right after tape is embedded. We hope this helps! 

This was the response I got from Fibafuse on their facebook page. Pretty pathetic


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> have you tried it on a butt yet?


No. Don't have enough left. And I'd want to do a couple things to it, if I was to use such a material as what I have. Eg. Small hole perforations throughout it, to improve bonding.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Hi Cole, We're not familiar with the term “Peaked”, but guessing from the reference to where bevels meet we assume the tape is protruding out along the center of the tape along the drywall seam. This is an issue that can happen with paper tape as well. This could happen if too much compound is left behind the tape or if compound is applied over the tape right after tape is embedded. We hope this helps!
> 
> This was the response I got from Fibafuse on their facebook page. Pretty pathetic


It didn't seem much help. Maybe we should be talking to Drywall Easy - the supplier from China who was posting here a bit ago. They're into making tape. I've got a few more tape ideas I could throw at him, as well.

But Joe is going to do some testing, so maybe he'll be able to come with something for us (even if that was taking 36" FF rolls and cutting them, then redistributing(?)) Or maybe that's something Ice can do, when he retires in a bit. His next career.


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

Lol ice is like the inspector gadget of drywall


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

taper71 said:


> Hi Cole, We're not familiar with the term “Peaked”, but guessing from the reference to where bevels meet we assume the tape is protruding out along the center of the tape along the drywall seam. This is an issue that can happen with paper tape as well. This could happen if too much compound is left behind the tape or if compound is applied over the tape right after tape is embedded. We hope this helps!
> 
> This was the response I got from Fibafuse on their facebook page. Pretty pathetic


You might be onto something there, I know fibafuse shouldn't trap excess mud underneath because it should bleed through it, but what about the crease line in the centre, it doesn't look like it would be able to bleed through, just a thought anyway.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

icerock drywall said:


> I think the rubber is cool...I would like to try it!





JustMe said:


> Not rubber, ice, but more a film like material. The air motor I mentioned has very tight machined tolerances.
> 
> As I told Joe, there's Very likely something better out there than what I have, but it's a direction that I think is worth exploring.


I came across that piece of material I mentioned I was making gaskets from, Ice. I'll keep a piece behind when I send it to Joe, and when my micrometer decides to show up, I'll mic it and see what thickness it is compared to paper or FibaFuse. One thing about it is that unless you catch it at a right spot, it doesn't like to tear as easily as paper tape.


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Just got back from fixing another Fibafuse home that I did. The little tapes were peaking this time as well as some of the flats. Not as many as the last house I fixed , but man what a joke. Not a happy man am I .


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Just got back from fixing another Fibafuse home that I did. The little tapes were peaking this time as well as some of the flats. Not as many as the last house I fixed , but man what a joke. Not a happy man am I .


Any possible answer in the latest posts saskataper and I made on the other FibaFuse thread?


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

I think I got a bad couple of cases of fibafuse. It seems like there is not as much fibers where the crease is. Like I said before. Tapes nice, 10 inch peaks out when dry,sands out with rough sand, peaks out again with 12 inch, sands out nice for final. Peaks out again when primed. It does not sand out after prime needs to be re coated. I got half a roll left Ill take a pic of it tomorrow.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

taper71 said:


> I think I got a bad couple of cases of fibafuse. It seems like there is not as much fibers where the crease is. Like I said before. Tapes nice, 10 inch peaks out when dry,sands out with rough sand, peaks out again with 12 inch, sands out nice for final. Peaks out again when primed. It does not sand out after prime needs to be re coated. I got half a roll left Ill take a pic of it tomorrow.


Maybe take the roll into a supplier - maybe even a different supplier than where you got it from - and compare it with what they have, as well?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Posted in the other FF thread. 
http://www.drywalltalk.com/f3/help-fibafuse-5152/index2/#post102262


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

JustMe said:


> I came across that piece of material I mentioned I was making gaskets from, Ice. I'll keep a piece behind when I send it to Joe, and when my micrometer decides to show up, I'll mic it and see what thickness it is compared to paper or FibaFuse. One thing about it is that unless you catch it at a right spot, it doesn't like to tear as easily as paper tape.


My micrometer hasn't shown up yet, Ice, but Joe sent me a PM of how thick the piece is that I sent him. It's 1/3 the thickness of the paper tape I've micrometered in the past. He says they'll be doing some testing over the next few weeks, to see if they can make something out of it.


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