# Highrise Advice - Help.



## gettin2old4this (Jul 16, 2014)

I'm currently doing a project in a high rise condo building. it is a mix of old plaster and new drywal. I'm trying to connect the drywall to the plaster ceiling. Unfortunately, there is a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap between the new ceiling plaster and where the top of the dry wall has been drilled in to the metal studs 

The plaster man that did the ceiling told me to leave a half inch gap at the top of the drywall so he could get some of his plaster work smoothed out. It turns out the ceiling was not easy and he had to do a very light skim coat. The new plaster ceiling looks great, but I'm left with the half inch gaps at the ceiling around the room to fill in. My thoughts have been.

a.) unscrew the drywall to butt it up against plaster celing and then finish with mesh or paper tape. it would be heavy and seems labor intensive to just unscrew a perfectly placed drywall board for only a 1/2 inch.

b.) fill the 5/8" deep gap with Structo-lite, let it dry for a few days and then spray/staple plastic corner bead, then mud.

c. cut and drill super slim 1/2 inch pieces of drywall in the half inch gap, then proceed with mudding paper or mesh. 

My biggest concern is cracking in the corners. It is a highrise buidling and if plastic if going to give me the longer run from problems cropping up down the road, I would probably go with that. Paper will definitley not hold due to the shifting nature of a high rise.

I know this was long. But i have to say, I'm just stumped. I'm always prided my self in tight seams and butts. but the whole highrise building stress on walls is outta my league.

Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. BTW, customer wants clean modern look. So sharp corners need to be everywhere.

It's late, I hope something of this makes sense. Thanks in advance.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I would probably use Trim Tex mud set tearaway. 
Here is a link. http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=showproduct&id=288

Here is an installation video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG5GUJ7GOP8


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

What a mess? If they wanted it square and tight then they should have set the board that way? But I guess its beyond that now and they want you to fix? 

Big fix for you though isn't it, cans and cans of expanding foam, Shoot it in there, Let dry, Cut off the swelled bit, Then tape, Paper, Or maybe a papermetal internal trim

If it was a bigger gap, Cut strips of board, California patch one side, Mud that in and tape over. We have bathroom aqualine board here full of fibres, Stays together much better when cut in thin strips, Do you have that?

Good luck.


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## nodnarb (Apr 25, 2014)

gettin2old4this said:


> a.) unscrew the drywall to butt it up against plaster celing and then finish with mesh or paper tape. it would be heavy and seems labor intensive to just unscrew a perfectly placed drywall board for only a 1/2 inch


Moving sheets isnt fun but id hardly call it labor intensive considering the alternatives: waiting forever for chit to dry, buying and messing with foam for a few hours, cutting 1/4"-1/2" rips out of some OTHER board you will be handling anyways.

If it were me id just move the board.


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## gettin2old4this (Jul 16, 2014)

Hey Folks,

Thanks for the advice.

Cazna - I decided not to go with California patch, or any patch, even though I really, really wanted to.

Nodnarb - I took your advice...much as didn't want to do it, I just unscrewed all the sheets, used a plywood plank and crowbar at the bottom and they all slid up the wall easier than I thought it would go. nice and tight.

Gazman - I checked out the Trim-tex at my supply house and I think I'm going to go that route with the peel away bead. I've never really not done some type of full corner bead, so it will be interesting. But I think with this being a high rise, it could reduce the crack factor.

Thanks again for the quick response guys. Your advice was practical and appreciated.

- W

:thumbup:


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## siege (Jul 20, 2014)

*duro*

i woulda used durabond pack, flat taped first if i had to then angle taped it out


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

siege said:


> i woulda used durabond pack, flat taped first if i had to then angle taped it out


YEP! That's what I'd of done. :thumbsup:


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

Hello 2old4this, You should visit our design center 3700 W. Pratt Ave, Lincolnwood and see our deflection bead in action. Stock # 9220 developed for high rise wall to ceiling with a 1/2" gap for ceiling deflection. 

Try our Super Seal Tear Away for 1/4" gaps on wall to ceiling or around steel door and aluminum window mullions.

FYI : most new high rise construction the concrete decks will creep (sag) as much as 1/4" during the first 8 months and once everything settles in and the concrete takes a true set only 0" to 1/8" after that. Once finished deck deflection and uplift becomes the drywalls enemy at wall to ceiling terminations. Tenant use with furniture and people floor loading come into effect. 

Since you have already moved the drywall up and tight to the deck I would recommend using our # 9000XT flat Tearaway spray 847 spray adhesive on the back of the bead and install right away with a 1/8 gap to the ceiling (pop a chalk line at the bottom edge of the mud leg) use a laser. Immediately pressure the mud leg and then staple every 4" ( spraying the back of the bead only with 2 medium coats and not spraying near the ceiling keeps the plaster ceiling perfectly clean. Once filled and sanded tear off the Tear strip after priming caulk the 1/8" gap above the bead. Use our #700 adhesive caulk or Big Stretch (both are perfect for this) 

When it come to commercial challenges go to our web site and spend some time learning about our problem solving products allow you to do it right the first and every time. 


Joe


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