# Tape on cornerbead and hopper?



## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

So I'm on a big commercial job and I got five cases of square cornerbead to put on. I have a USG hopper and corner roller to do it with. This is my first time putting more than a couple of sticks of tapeon bead, I almost always use metal bead and staple it on. So what I'm doing is reaching out to see if you all have any tips or pointers for me.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Mountain Man said:


> So I'm on a big commercial job and I got five cases of square cornerbead to put on. I have a USG hopper and corner roller to do it with. This is my first time putting more than a couple of sticks of tapeon bead, I almost always use metal bead and staple it on. So what I'm doing is reaching out to see if you all have any tips or pointers for me.


I'm confused about the hopper. Isn't that for spraying?


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Never mind found it. It's a corner bead hopper. 

Looks like that would work well and budget friendly.


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## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

Check out this video. 







And I found the hopper here.

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/...-Hopper.html?gclid=CJnI-fjmtLYCFQvNnAodayEAsA


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Sue34 said:


> Check out this video.
> 
> Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7Oort4A244
> 
> ...


Or if serious production work, try one of these.....




Inside, outside off angles as well.


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## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

Oh wow. That is a serious machine there. I love it. Wonder what it cost? Im too lazy to google.


Ok after Googling, I think that thing is 5K. Im sorry but no way is that worth $5,000. 

I even found a few posts about it a while ago.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f2/auto-slam-547/


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Sue34 said:


> Oh wow. That is a serious machine there. I love it. Wonder what it cost? Im too lazy to google.
> 
> Ok after Googling, I think that thing is 5K. Im sorry but no way is that worth $5,000.
> 
> ...


Actually, it's more than that. 

Worth is dependent upon use. As a "production" machine, and not to mention it's a tool filling station, it can be well worth it.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

That Autoslam looks to be a pretty neat rig. Made by Structus but cant find a price on it.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Square Foot said:


> Actually, it's more than that.
> 
> Worth is dependent upon use. As a "production" machine, and not to mention it's a tool filling station, it can be well worth it.


Have any used this machine ? 

http://youtu.be/u9oz0xcsfaw


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> That Autoslam looks to be a pretty neat rig. Made by Structus but cant find a price on it.


I've owned this machine for a little over a yr. I came across one bnib from the manufacturer for an insanely low price that I just couldn't pass up.

When researching it, I called Grabber ( a reseller ) and was quoted 6 to 7k at that time depending on how much material is purchased with it. Again, it can shine on commercial or even big detailed houses. Now, if you don't feel like transporting the machine for smaller homes, you can get all of your lengths and cut to size off site and stick with traditional method.

To be honest, if it were not for the deal I got, I would not have bought it as most of the homes I do are in the 200 to 300 board range, with a few thrown in here and there upwards of 700 + or -

The bead used is essentially NoCoat. 3.75" in 500 foot rolls.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mountain Man said:


> So I'm on a big commercial job and I got five cases of square cornerbead to put on. I have a USG hopper and corner roller to do it with. This is my first time putting more than a couple of sticks of tapeon bead, I almost always use metal bead and staple it on. So what I'm doing is reaching out to see if you all have any tips or pointers for me.


I won't explain the hopper, think you can figure that out yourself, plus I don't like them, I prefer the compound tube instead,,, but the hopper is good for those first starting out on paper bead.

The all important tool is the bead roller, it's the tool you will soon love, it sets the bead in place for you, and it's your speed also.

Always roll upwards first went doing verticals, then come down, you can twist the bead left or right if it looks out of square, with a twist of the wrist. Once the bead is set in place, you have the option of half coating it, or scraping the excess mud off the bead. No need to wipe the bead, since the roller is actually your wiper. Keep your knife away from the nose of the bead when scraping down also. If your not the one supplying the mud:whistling2:, you can also use a damp sponge or mop to remove excess mud.

Horizontal beads, start from the middle, and roll left or right JUST once, don't keep going back and forth with roller, or things will get messy, push fairly hard, and keep arms over head or held high when rolling out horizontals, or your bead will sorta drop, (place on out of square) if you don't

You can also pull in or out on your bead also (pinch your bead),,, say if your trying to make a long bulkhead run straight, you can move or adjust the bead. Or, if you notice bad spots before hand (bow in archway or bulkhead) you can apply short pieces of scrap bead on first (where bow is)to build it out, then apply your full length bead on over top......

Your never going to want to go back to metal bead now:thumbup:


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## DrywallerDustin (Mar 1, 2013)

Mountain Man said:


> So I'm on a big commercial job and I got five cases of square cornerbead to put on. I have a USG hopper and corner roller to do it with. This is my first time putting more than a couple of sticks of tapeon bead, I almost always use metal bead and staple it on. So what I'm doing is reaching out to see if you all have any tips or pointers for me.


Haul that garbage back to the yard and get some clinch on....


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

DrywallerDustin said:


> Haul that garbage back to the yard and get some clinch on....


And while youre at it, grab your mesh tape, plastic bread pan, corner trowel, screen sanders,....... oh and the DRYWALL SPOON....:whistling2:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

mld said:


> And while youre at it, grab your mesh tape, plastic bread pan, corner trowel, screen sanders,....... oh and the DRYWALL SPOON....:whistling2:


Oh yes - cant forget the drywall spoon


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

ah yes, that's the one:thumbup:


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## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> Oh yes - cant forget the drywall spoon
> 
> Drywall Corner Spoon Demo - YouTube


Many thanks for this.

That "spoon" is a classic tool. I have no idea what that guy was trying to demo there. All tools should be about increased production and quality- that tool demonstrates neither. 

Glad to see some "professionals" are trying to push things that even I know are waste of time.


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## Arey85 (Jan 2, 2010)

Rarely do I watch a you tube video and laugh so hard that tears start coming out. That video was f***ing ridiculous. The guy says in a very "I don't really care about anything in my life" tone of voice- it should have been around 50 years ago. That part had me out of breath laughing. As if it was such a monumental development in history for our trade. What a loser. Did that thing ever make it to the market? Maybe in the bakery cake frosting aisle?


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

DrywallerDustin said:


> Haul that garbage back to the yard and get some clinch on....


Ahh yes, the Clinch on...the ultimate tool for following what ever is there.


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> I won't explain the hopper, think you can figure that out yourself, plus I don't like them, I prefer the compound tube instead,,, but the hopper is good for those first starting out on paper bead.
> 
> The all important tool is the bead roller, it's the tool you will soon love, it sets the bead in place for you, and it's your speed also.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips 2buck!! I'm getting it down pretty good after a day and a half. It's just not as fast as stapling metal yet. When the corners of Sheetrock line up it goes on sweet, but the hanging is only good on one side of my hall way, it's a ton of bAker work, lots of windows, generally a cut up bitch for a school.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

DrywallerDustin said:


> Haul that garbage back to the yard and get some clinch on....


 After you clinch on your bead do you tape the flange to keep them from edge cracking? If not you should.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

oh right there is that Glencoe Taper


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## DrywallerDustin (Mar 1, 2013)

moore said:


> After you clinch on your bead do you tape the flange to keep them from edge cracking? If not you should.



Yep, I always mesh the flanges


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

DrywallerDustin said:


> Yep, I always mesh the flanges


The 1960's are back:yes::thumbup:


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## CleanTaper (Apr 14, 2013)

There is nothing better than paper bead and a bead box. I rock that chit up and down the block. Do not roll all the mud out of the bead, leave some in there. Don't wipe it tight and check every foot or so with your knife to the nose of the bead to see that you have room for fill. Prefill your joins on bulkheads and this will hide it better after you load. I love paper bead it is your best friend.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

CleanTaper said:


> There is nothing better than paper bead and a bead box. I rock that chit up and down the block. Do not roll all the mud out of the bead, leave some in there. Don't wipe it tight and check every foot or so with your knife to the nose of the bead to see that you have room for fill. Prefill your joins on bulkheads and this will hide it better after you load. I love paper bead it is your best friend.


Compound tube with bead applicator is faster than a bead box


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