# Log Homes



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

A quick search showed me that this topic hasn't been addressed directly....

So, I know there have to be some guys out there who have hung/finished log homes.

Here's the scenario: I haven't seen this job yet, interior framing is scheduled to be completed in about 2 weeks, and then the other trades will come in so I have some time to figure it out. The logs are between 16"-22" in diameter, and we've begun discussing settling issues and how to prevent the drywall from breaking. The builder states that the logs will move about 2", but my research shows that we could be looking at up to 6" of movement. I've looked at slip-wall techniques for framing, but how in the hell can I account for adjacent wall movement? The builder states that they will be cutting grooves for drywall to slide into, but that the grooves won't be able to run all the way into the log joints because they are so big.....it seems to me that perhaps this is an issue that HE will have to deal with....there's only so much that drywall can do, and it's going to get crushed if he doesn't figure it out. I'm excited about the scribing, it's been years since I've been able to do any, and I do enjoy challenging scenarios.

Thoughts? Advice? Experiences?


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> A quick search showed me that this topic hasn't been addressed directly....
> 
> So, I know there have to be some guys out there who have hung/finished log homes.
> 
> ...


Any true log built structures they have to place hydraulic jacks throughout the home to account for any settling. They are placed on the top plates of the walls so they may be jacked up over time as settling occurs, that's also why you would use a slip joint (a board not attached to the wall but the ceiling. 
As far as walls that run adjacent to the logs if they are too big to cut into then use a slip joint there also fastening the wood to the logs so it will move along the drywall freely (which they would have to be scribed and meticulously cut). Same principle as the slip joints over windows and doors to prevent them from busting under pressure. I have seen some pretty big logs in homes where when they groove them out they just use a chainsaw can't see where a 16-22" log is too big to do this seen them bigger and this being done . No matter how its done it is a time consuming job, but always looks great when finished. Or they could just scribe the sheetrock with a reasonable expansion gap and just caulk it with some big stretch.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Another thing to remember is the cut into the logs does not have to be cut so deep all the way down Just follow the contour of the logs perhaps 1" or so into it, then scribe the sheetrock and slide into the groove , you would have a little room for error on you drywall cuts that way.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> Any true log built structures they have to place hydraulic jacks throughout the home to account for any settling. They are placed on the top plates of the walls so they may be jacked up over time as settling occurs, that's also why you would use a slip joint (a board not attached to the wall but the ceiling.
> As far as walls that run adjacent to the logs if they are too big to cut into then use a slip joint there also fastening the wood to the logs so it will move along the drywall freely (which they would have to be scribed and meticulously cut). Same principle as the slip joints over windows and doors to prevent them from busting under pressure. I have seen some pretty big logs in homes where when they groove them out they just use a chainsaw can't see where a 16-22" log is too big to do this seen them bigger and this being done . No matter how its done it is a time consuming job, but always looks great when finished. Or they could just scribe the sheetrock with a reasonable expansion gap and just caulk it with some big stretch.


The log builder is a veteran, but the GC (good friend of mine) hasn't done any other log homes. I was thinking the same as you, the groove can be made to go all the way in, I can't see why it wouldn't (when a chainsaw has a _minimum_ 18" bar, and the radius of a 22" diameter log is only 11". I'm thinking maybe I should get out there before interior framing is done, before it's too late and then the weight rests on my shoulders.:yes:

Thanks for the input Silverstilts.:thumbsup:


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

You don't need a long bar on the saw to cut, because you are following the contour of the logs not going strait down but like I said you would still have to scribe the sheetrock by doing it this way. If you cut strait down the logs then perhaps you would need a longer bar then you wouldn't have to scribe at all. They do make longer bars for chain saws. And yes lay out where the walls are and cut before the walls are up either snap a line or screw a 2 by on the logs for a guide to follow.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> You don't need a long bar on the saw to cut, because you are following the contour of the logs not going strait down but like I said you would still have to scribe the sheetrock by doing it this way. If you cut strait down the logs then perhaps you would need a longer bar then you wouldn't have to scribe at all. They do make longer bars for chain saws. And yes lay out where the walls are and cut before the walls are up either snap a line or screw a 2 by on the logs for a guide to follow.


Exactly. The GC said that the notches wouldn't go all the way in, and my point was that they _could_, and perhaps should. If not, that's fine, as long as the depth of the groove on the underside of the logs is deep enough for me to cut a scribe and allow for settling I'm good. In fact, I hope I do get to do lots of scribing.....then I get to make more money:thumbsup:


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