# boxing stand ups



## jeepin270 (Mar 30, 2014)

I am having a awful time trying to run the boxes on stand ups. Can anyone give any pointers? All 10ft.


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

I pull up from the bottom first then go to the top and pull down... It's a little awkward at first but when I pull down it wipes the lap line nice. And hopefully you have a hydra reach or bent pole. The bent one helps at pushing the box and less pressure I find


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Stand ups over a wood frame? Good luck!

Stand ups over a wood frame with bad board?? Your screwed!

BTW....I don't care for stand ups.:whistling2:


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## jeepin270 (Mar 30, 2014)

Yes it is over wood frame and it is that light board **** too. I hate stand ups too!


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

jeepin270 said:


> I am having a awful time trying to run the boxes on stand ups. Can anyone give any pointers? All 10ft.


With 10', my usually more preferred way is to keep my extendable handle shorter and do it in 3 sections. 1st I'll pull up from the bottom till the pull-up height just starts to get a bit uncomfortable. I'll also lock the wheels out on the pull up, so I can lift them and keep them slightly off the wall while coming up - gets more 'push' to the front of the box. Pulling up 1st also lets you know exactly how far you have to come down after, but no further than is necessary. Also gives a cleaner lift mark, as Toontown said.

Then I'll go as high as is comfortable with the shortened handle and come down. Then I'll kick a bench into place in front of the stand up and finish the top. 


2nd way, without a bench: I'll still do it in 3 parts, but have my handle longer, pulling up from the bottom and then reaching up where it's still comfortable enough, pull down. Then I'll go to the top and locking the wheels out, finish the top part.

Whatever part is the seeming hardest at time - the top or the bottom - is where I like having as full a box as I can. Easier to push when the lid is more out than in.
So where possible, if I'm doing a 10' without a bench, which means using a longer handle extension and reaching up more, I prefer pulling up on a stand-up when the box is emptier, go fill up, then pull down when it's fuller.
If I'm doing it in 3 pieces with a bench, I prefer the box to be more full when I'm pulling up. Jumping up on a bench with a bit lighter box is nicer, as well. I'll often save doing the tops on a couple stand ups till the box is more empty when I'm using a bench, doing the bottom parts of a couple 1st while the box is more full, then doing the tops off a bench.

One other thing about when you're pulling up is to get your leg/body behind the arm that's furthest down your handle, and use that to help give push pressure as well.


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

This is where reverse springs come in handy - makes it much easier.
:thumbsup:


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

I do a lot of standups of 9ft, I have the extended handle and I start at the top come down with about 2 ft left then after a bunch of those throw on the shorter handle then pull up as far as is comfortable..Did 75 flats like that today..


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

When I first went commercial the bottoms were killing me, because I was boxing the flat head on and doing a "squat" each flat. It didn't take me long to figure out the other guys were doing the scoop method(their term), which was much easier on them. You stand at a 90 degree angle to the wall with an under hand grip, and just do a shoveling motion. Tops or bottoms first it never has mattered to me. I switch it up when on large commecial jobs, because I get bored lol.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Mudslinger said:


> When I first went commercial the bottoms were killing me, because I was boxing the flat head on and doing a "squat" each flat. It didn't take me long to figure out the other guys were doing the scoop method(their term), which was much easier on them. You stand at a 90 degree angle to the wall with an under hand grip, and just do a shoveling motion. Tops or bottoms first it never has mattered to me. I switch it up when on large commecial jobs, because I get bored lol.


Forgot about that one. You're right with that - the scoop/shovel method is better than squatting, and I use it at times, as well. If I didn't have a good working extendable handle, I'd do all of them like that. I usually end up using sort of a 1/2 and 1/2 between the squat way that I was originally taught, and the scoop way. Whatever seems to best work for what one is doing. Or if one is getting bored.


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## jeepin270 (Mar 30, 2014)

Any chance someone can post a video? I am having all my trouble coming up from the floor so much that I stopped even trying, I jus box it down as far as I can then finish the bottom by hand.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I tend to start at the top, End about 40 cm from the bottom, Then start from bottom up which leaves a lap then reach for the pan and knife to finish off, Often I have trim board down there anyway so have to knife finish it.


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

jeepin270 said:


> Any chance someone can post a video? I am having all my trouble coming up from the floor so much that I stopped even trying, I jus box it down as far as I can then finish the bottom by hand.


Bill does a couple of example runs on the face of the board in this video just to show how much easier it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGCbpOxfSJA&list=UUQiFqPISs5NV_ZOb_Gvm2ow&feature=share


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

tomg said:


> Bill does a couple of example runs on the face of the board in this video just to show how much easier it is.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGCbpOxfSJA&list=UUQiFqPISs5NV_ZOb_Gvm2ow&feature=share


Looks like the release mechanism on it could work better than my TT 10" Power Assist.

I'm thinking one problem for me would be the spring release wheel in the middle, since I run my 8 and 10" boxes twice, using 2buck's wait 15+ minutes between run times to allow shrink back of 1st run - and sometimes the 12" twice in spots as well, where it might need it. I'm thinking the center release wheel would run through my fresh mud too much at such times?


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## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

Toontowntaper said:


> I pull up from the bottom first then go to the top and pull down... It's a little awkward at first but when I pull down it wipes the lap line nice. And hopefully you have a hydra reach or bent pole. The bent one helps at pushing the box and less pressure I find




I find also if you start from the bottom and then pull down from the top, the lip thats left is a lot smaller than vice versa. You have more control over the box and can pull it away neater imho...


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

JustMe said:


> Looks like the release mechanism on it could work better than my TT 10" Power Assist.
> 
> I'm thinking one problem for me would be the spring release wheel in the middle, since I run my 8 and 10" boxes twice, using 2buck's wait 15+ minutes between run times to allow shrink back of 1st run - and sometimes the 12" twice in spots as well, where it might need it. I'm thinking the center release wheel would run through my fresh mud too much at such times?


Yes - it would. You need some drying time with these.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

tomg said:


> Yes - it would. You need some drying time with these.


Pretty much everyone I know know runs their boxes twice, especially on the 1st box coat. I'm wondering if something like an adapter kit, to get the release wheels out to the side, could be possible. Maybe one that could adjust to box widths, so only need 1 adapter. Unless that would add too much awkwardness.
Just a thought.


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

You can go over it again, just wouldn't recommend it on a taping coat. Second or finish coat it should be fine, you will just gather a little mud on the trigger wheel. Again - maybe not if you are going to wait 15mins between runs.
Once tripped there is minimal pressure on that wheel.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Toontowntaper said:


> I pull up from the bottom first then go to the top and pull down... It's a little awkward at first but when I pull down it wipes the lap line nice.


All my lapmarks face down always no matter what im doing. Its a good habbit to get into because it does reduce the size of the lapmark.. 
When boxing or pumping angles, I run through and pull all the bottoms up first. The few minutes it sits and dries helps to reduce the size of the lap when i pull them down. A couple of strokes with the pole sander and they are gone and requires almost no touch up.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

jeepin270 said:


> Any chance someone can post a video? I am having all my trouble coming up from the floor so much that I stopped even trying, I jus box it down as far as I can then finish the bottom by hand.


What's the big deal? Just bend over put the box on the wall ,hit the brake and pull up,stay bent,back up,or go forward and repeat.and while your at it hurry up because your not making any money trying to make it easy.


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