# California Patch



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Anybody tried or does this, I wonder if it would blow out or how strong it would be??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Kfw8M-a0pE&feature=player_embedded


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

:yes: I wish I has a dollar of every California patch I've done. A "good" hanger will cut and place one in the hole when they mess something up. Try it out once caz, you'll be glad for the new trick.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

They've been discussed here before, caz, under such names as 'Texas patch' as well as California Patch.

I've done lots of them, including ones bigger than they're saying. Never a problem yet, that I know of, and they finish off nice and easy if done well enough.

A couple things:

1. Watch for the face paper pulling away from the board when you're peeling away the 1" (or wider) sides you're removing on the patch. If it does...you can mud it back together, with the hope it doesn't bubble a bit somewhere when coated. Or cut a new piece.
Best way to remove the sides I've found is to break the board along the lines you've cut on the backside and then pull back towards you the piece you're going to remove. That helps keep the face paper in contact with the rest of the patch material and doesn't let it separate.

2. I'll put some mud on the edges of the patch itself as well as on the paper - those edges that will fit into the wall hole - to help bond the patch in better. I don't usually put mud around the wall's inside edges so much, as when you push the board in, you could be pushing the mud out and into the wall cavity.
But I have put mud on both at times, especially in areas where the patch might take a hit. Don't know if it really helps doing that.

3. When I wipe, I make sure I never push on the patch with my knife without making sure the knife is supported by the surrounding wall as well. Otherwise, you can push the patch into the wall a bit and it won't be level. That can happen with especially bigger patches.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I like to use a 12 ''carpenter square with a new blade in my knife 
this keeps the paper from pulling off the rock ...after mud and you think your done on your first coat I like to fibafuse it with a big roll:yes: 2nd coat it when wet after dry scrap and skim it:thumbup:


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

I've done hundreds of those, but have switch to what I call the" Ontario patch" ( thanks2buck ) except I use Fibafuse :thumbsup:

Maybe 2buck can post his link.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

While you guys are pulling the paper off the board ..Why not just use a back blocker then place a piece of rock in the hole and tape over that with the peeled paper?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

moore said:


> While you guys are pulling the paper off the board ..Why not just use a back blocker then place a piece of rock in the hole and tape over that with the peeled paper?


if you do it tight with the paper then ff it you dont need much mud...after one coat you could texture it and be done or one more skim for smooth. If you try it you will see


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

California,Chicago,Texas or Afghani...
I think this is one the the first "tricks" that a Canadian drywaller learns.

I've done them up to 2'x2' in areas where nobody will ever come close to them and only when I don't have screws or backer available.

Works well. Nothing wrong with doing these.:thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> California,Chicago,Texas or Afghani...
> I think this is one the the first "tricks" that a Canadian drywaller learns.
> 
> I've done them up to 2'x2' in areas where nobody will ever come close to them and only when I don't have screws or backer available.
> ...


I like to call it my EX quick patch ...my dad fathers pa called it the poor mans patch  just kidding I am the only rocker in my fam:yes:


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## Milco (May 5, 2013)

Those patches are actually quite good if done properly. I use them all the time on old holes of replaced electrical outlets, where the hole is not bigger than 6x6. But i would avoid using this technique on ceilings repairs or where actual door stop should be installed.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

mld said:


> I've done hundreds of those, but have switch to what I call the" Ontario patch" ( thanks2buck ) except I use Fibafuse :thumbsup:
> 
> Maybe 2buck can post his link.


Are you talking this patch, the one I call the 2 buck patch:whistling2:

The beauty of the 2buck patch (when using fibafuse) is you can coat right over it right away, and the drywall dose not need to be cut out perfect.

While the California, Buffalo, or sunshine patch you cant coat right over it right away. Not unless the rocker cuts it in perfectly tight, which most times it is not


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Thats the one, you da man............. now don't get a big head or anything:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

mld said:


> Thats the one, you da man............. now don't get a big head or anything:thumbsup:


If knowledge, wisdom, or arrogance is like food, then it will all end up around my waist line,,,, so don't worry


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> if you do it tight with the paper then ff it you dont need much mud...after one coat you could texture it and be done or one more skim for smooth. If you try it you will see



Hey Ice, is that a texture sprayer? No one does texture around here so I am curious.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks for the replys everyone, Im still back blocking then adding a piece of board and taping, Somehow I missed all these tricks, Bucks looks like a quick easy one :thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

gazman said:


> Hey Ice, is that a texture sprayer? No one does texture around here so I am curious.


this house had a lot off holes and I was going faster than the contractor and I forgot the Insulation :furious: ... so I used my dap gun I use it to repair the drywall where you cant put a screw because of the bade blocking from contractors:whistling2:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

A lot of the smaller patches I do don't even get sheetrock.. A couple layers of fibafuse and 5 minute will go a loooooong way . But yes I have done the "california" patch or "hot" patch as we always called it. Also have done many patches the way 2Buck demonstrated. You would be surprised what I have done with just fibafuse mat and 5 minute. and once everything sets, that stuff is just as strong as the surrounding wall :thumbsup:


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

We always called it a hot patch. Not sure why my dads been doing those for years.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> A lot of the smaller patches I do don't even get sheetrock.. A couple layers of fibafuse and 5 minute will go a loooooong way . But yes I have done the "california" patch or "hot" patch as we always called it. Also have done many patches the way 2Buck demonstrated. You would be surprised what I have done with just fibafuse mat and 5 minute. and once everything sets, that stuff is just as strong as the surrounding wall :thumbsup:


I give up


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## Toolnut (Aug 17, 2012)

moore said:


> While you guys are pulling the paper off the board ..Why not just use a back blocker then place a piece of rock in the hole and tape over that with the peeled paper?


We also always called them a hot patch.
When you use the backer type you have to find the backer, most times cut it, then cut your patch, tape and mud. With a hot patch you already have the drywall just cut it, and the paper works like the tape. I have found this repair is pretty easy to cover.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Same here.
I've been doing those for years.
California patch is what we call it too.
I've actually done 6 this week alone. lol
We were just discussing that we should perhaps do a video on this as well.
Looks like its covered already. :thumbsup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> I give up


????


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