# fire taping



## git-r-dun

I heard that you don't really have to coat the screws when fire taping. I usaully coat them but i was wondering if i should keep doing what i'm doing or is it ok if i leave them? I just find it a pain to do them when i'm just fire taping.


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## PrairrieDogExpress

In my opinion its pointless to coat them. I have had to do it though, depending on who the inspector is. I was told that the rational for doing them is that when they get hot in a fire they will pop out?????? I dont see how a little mud will prevent this.


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## fr8train

Maybe it changes by region, but I was taught that for fire taping, all seams and ALL penetrations of the drywall must be coated at least once.


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## Rolly

it totally depends on your local building codes AND your inspector

out here it is code to coat the screws in a fire tape situation but half the time you dont get called on it

I dont do manny multies any more or commercial work either so I havent seen any firetaping in a few years but I used to always coat the screws while I firetaped...
and yes *I* fire taped, I didnt get a rookie to do it because it always passed when I did it, and other than the fire saftey thing, passing inspection is what fire taping is all about, it can really hang a job up when you fail.

when you coat your screws the job looks more professional and your inspector will tend to be less of a prick


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## Mudstar

The term fire taping is misleading to some and really the procedure is to block gases and toxins in cases of fire or other air born harmful toxins like carbon monoxide/dioxide form running cars, the biggy, from entry into or out of an area like garages in homes and separation walls in commercial buildings

Seal up the walls guys, including the screws when fire taping . You never know some small kid might push the remote start for the car in the garage one night and no one wakes up in the morning.

JS


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## mudslingr

Mudstar said:


> Seal up the walls guys, including the screws when fire taping . You never know some small kid might push the remote start for the car in the garage one night and no one wakes up in the morning.
> 
> JS



Fantastic answer !!! :thumbup:


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## rhardman

Mudstar said:


> Seal up the walls guys, including the screws when fire taping . You never know some small kid might push the remote start for the car in the garage one night and no one wakes up in the morning.
> JS


An answer far above anything called "quality." :thumbup:


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## Checkers

To those who do not know, and those who have never been quite sure, we drywallers DO have a guidebook!

In reference to the levels,
Taken from USG 
_"Finishing-Level Definitions
The following finishing-level definitions are based on GA-214-07,
“Recommended Levels of Gypsum Board Finish,” and are intended to
provide an industry standard for drywall finishing.
*Level 0* Used in temporary construction or wherever the final decoration
has not been determined. Unfinished. No taping, finishing or
corner beads are required. Also could be used where non-predecorated
panels will be used in demountable-type partitions that are to be
painted as a final finish.
*Level 1* Frequently used in plenum areas above ceilings, in attics, in
areas where the assembly would generally be concealed or in building
service corridors and other areas not normally open to public view.
Some degree of sound and smoke control is provided; in some geographic
areas, this level is referred to as “fire-taping,” although this
level of finish does not typically meet fire-resistant assembly requirements.
Where a fire resistance rating is required for the gypsum board
assembly, details of construction should be in accordance with reports
of fire tests of assemblies that have met the requirements of the fire
rating imposed.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound.
Accessories are optional at specifier discretion in corridors and
other areas with pedestrian traffic. Tape and fastener heads need not
be covered with joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint
compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable.
*Level 2* It may be specified for standard gypsum board surfaces in
garages, warehouse storage or other similar areas where surface appearance
is not of primary importance.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel,
leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior
angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with a coat
of joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound.
Tool marks and ridges are acceptable.
*Level 3* Typically used in areas that are to receive heavy texture
(spray or hand applied) finishes before final painting, or where commercial-
grade (heavy duty) wall coverings are to be applied as the
final decoration. This level of finish should not be used where smooth
painted surfaces or where lighter weight wall coverings are specified.
The prepared surface shall be coated with a drywall primer prior to the
application of final finishes.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving
a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
One additional coat of joint compound shall be applied over all joints
chapter5.indd 163 1/13/2009 2:07:44 PM
164 |
and interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered
with two separate coats of joint compound. All joint compounds shall
be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The prepared surface
shall be covered with a drywall primer prior to the application of the
final decoration.
*Level 4* This level should be used where residential grade (light duty)
wall coverings, flat paints or light textures are to be applied. The prepared
surface shall be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application
of final finishes. Release agents for wall coverings are specifically
formulated to minimize damage if coverings are subsequently removed.
The weight, texture and sheen level of the wall covering material selected
should be taken into consideration when specifying wall coverings
over this level of drywall treatment. Joints and fasteners must be sufficiently
concealed if the wall covering material is lightweight, contains
limited pattern, has a glossy finish or has any combination of these features.
In critical lighting areas, flat paints applied over light textures tend
to reduce joint photographing. Gloss, semi-gloss and enamel paints are
not recommended over this level of finish.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving
a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
In addition, two separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over
all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over
interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with
three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compounds shall be
smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The prepared surface shall
be covered with a drywall primer like Sheetrock first coat prior to the
application of the final decoration.
*Level 5* The highest quality finish is the most effective method to provide
a uniform surface and minimize the possibility of joint photographing
and of fasteners showing through the final decoration. This level of
finish is required where gloss, semi-gloss or enamel is specified, when
flat joints are specified over an untextured surface or where critical
lighting conditions occur. The prepared surface shall be coated with a
drywall primer prior to the application of final decoration.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving a
thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles. Two
separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over all flat joints
and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles.
Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate
coats of joint compound.
A thin skim coat of joint compound shall be trowel applied to the entire
surface. Excess compound is immediately troweled off, leaving a film
or skim coating of compound completely covering the paper. As an
alternative to a skim coat, a material manufactured especially for this
purpose may be applied such as Sheetrock Tuff-Hide primer surfacer.
The surface must be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The
prepared surface shall be covered with a drywall primer prior to the
application of the final decoration."




_So, fire tape is technically a Level 1 finish.
*It's up to the builder whether or not you NEED to spot screws.*
I personally spot my screws in fire tape because you never know when there's a blow out behind a miss or the like, and it just looks killer!


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## 2buckcanuck

maybe you should re read your own post level #1_" details of construction should be in accordance with reports
of fire tests of assemblies that have met the requirements of the fire
rating imposed" does this sound like the builders job ?sounds like government to me, inspector/ firemarshall
as mudstar stated ,it should be called a gas seal,smoke seal etc....pretend your trying to fix a leaky fish tank,just seal damn thing
in commercial work above t bar I dont even use a knife,just pull tape from bazooka into a mud box,then wipe it out with my hands,use insulation dipped in mud to fill big holes ,dont half to look nice,just has to pass inspection ,so I dont see where levels of finishing applies here ,every area different,up to inspector
_


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## kwendz

Wen double drywall at 5/8 inch is required for fire saftey... does first layer of sheets need to be fire taped???????????


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## mudslingr

We do around here in between handicap units .


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## chris

kwendz said:


> Wen double drywall at 5/8 inch is required for fire saftey... does first layer of sheets need to be fire taped???????????


nope


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## Mudshark

kwendz said:


> Wen double drywall at 5/8 inch is required for fire saftey... does first layer of sheets need to be fire taped???????????


I believe it does if you do not stagger the joints by a few inches.


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## Cratter

Unless the fire tape is going to get covered up (drop ceiling), go the extra step and coat the screws even if its not required. It will look nicer and shows that your willing to go the extra step. We always do this in the majority of the garages where they are just fire taped.


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## kwendz

mudslingr said:


> We do around here in between handicap units .


Well I guess I will have to add an extra $5 per board in my original bid


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## taprfix

twobuck hit it right on the head {pardon the pun} lol


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## Paravain

Mudstar said:


> The term fire taping is misleading to some and really the procedure is to block gases and toxins in cases of fire or other air born harmful toxins like carbon monoxide/dioxide form running cars, the biggy, from entry into or out of an area like garages in homes and separation walls in commercial buildings
> 
> Seal up the walls guys, including the screws when fire taping . You never know some small kid might push the remote start for the car in the garage one night and no one wakes up in the morning.
> 
> JS


I find not coating the screws is the first step in slacking, then you tend to leave misses behind mostly because you don't see them because your not paying attention to the screws so I find if your there just do them they don't take that much time, just hit the screws and stop slacking the life you save could be your own.


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