# Staples



## Joe dirt (Feb 23, 2014)

Hi, I'm about to use Trim Tex corners available at a couple suppliers.
My problem is the staples are not available, can I use regular staples?
Thanks


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I would use the 847 spray glue rather than staples, a light spray on the drywall and another in the bead then wait maybe 15 seconds and stick it. Much stronger then staples.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Hey Benji.
Buy your beads from Pinehill Lumber in Lively.
They're the only supplier in town that carry the mudset beads.
You won't need any glue or staples and best of all they're the strongest beads trim-tex makes.
Talk to Chad, Trevor or Ryan and tell them Brian from Precision Taping sent you. They'll hook you up with better prices than Kelly Lake will.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Are the mudset beads truly stronger than the glue on one's?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> Are the mudset beads truly stronger than the glue on one's?


Yes sir yes sir!!


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I don't exactly know how much stronger off the top of my head.
The trim-tex studies only showed how much stronger they were compared to the competition, but I remember talking to Joe not long ago, and they did do studies vs their own beads as well, and he gave me a % but I forget what it was. They were indeed stronger however.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I just found some video footage on my computer from when my business partner Nick went to Trim-Tex, i'll upload the footage to Youtube now.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Joe dirt said:


> Hi, I'm about to use Trim Tex corners available at a couple suppliers.
> My problem is the staples are not available, can I use regular staples?
> Thanks


 Use the glue and staples. JT-21 staples will work if thats all you have. Spray glue and staples works best in my opinion.If using the mud set, staples arnt needed but I will stick one here and there on occasion


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I've found, with the mudset, staples will be needed! You just can't adjust them to correct for poor framing. If the framing is straight, and the board is right, just stick em and go, like any other bead. If the framing isn't right, you cannot tweak them to work. Just my experience.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> I've found, with the mudset, staples will be needed! You just can't adjust them to correct for poor framing. If the framing is straight, and the board is right, just stick em and go, like any other bead. If the framing isn't right, you cannot tweak them to work. Just my experience.


I wouldn't say staples are needed. I'd say the odd one helps if you have poor framing.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

PT, you don't follow the framers we do..... staples are needed!


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Actually, I can't blame it all on the framers, some of the lumber they get is just garbage!!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I have never needed to use staples with mudset. I guess that's the advantage of steel.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

gazman said:


> I have never needed to use staples with mudset. I guess that's the advantage of steel.




:tt2:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Nice smilie Fr8.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> PT, you don't follow the framers we do..... staples are needed!


Very very weird....
Like Gazman, I've rarely had to bother with staples for mudset.
Heck, I was installing some today and there was some pretty funky stuff, they still did great, just had to twist em a little in some spots.
That's real crappy about your framing though!


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

First off, let me ask a question.

For the Mud Set bead, how should the board be hung? Should they overlap, to almost make a 90 degree corner? Or, should they have a gap at the corner like for bullnose bead?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

You need to leave a gap on the corner. This gives the "I" beam some where to go.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

well maybe that was part of the issue. But it only did it at one spot, about a 1 foot section. I could get one side or the other to sit correctly. Since you can't pinch them out to make them work, I had to run some screws in it.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

fr8train said:


> well maybe that was part of the issue. But it only did it at one spot, about a 1 foot section. I could get one side or the other to sit correctly. Since you can't pinch them out to make them work, I had to run some screws in it.


That's definitely the issue Fr8.
It doesn't need to be set back as much as bullnose.
An eight is the minimum you need.
If you don't set it back you're going to run into issues like in Figure B in the image below.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> That's definitely the issue Fr8.
> It doesn't need to be set back as much as bullnose.
> An eight is the minimum you need.
> If you don't set it back you're going to run into issues like in Figure B in the image below.
> View attachment 9870


I like to use a 8'' test strip when I make my level line...if it rocks I cut it pack like little b said


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

leave a gap on the corner. gives me play.


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