# Venetian plaster anyone?



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Just wondering how many of you guys do venetian plaster on a relatively current basis. Would like to offer it to some of our builders but I would like to check with some of you guys on things to look out for. I was thinking perhaps $5 a foot labor and materials or just time and materials. I understand the basic concepts and it wouldn't be hard to apply, but I just don't want to dive in unless I have covered all my bases. I know behr,valspar, and Sherwin Williams carries a form of venetian plaster but I am not sure on the quality compared to a traditional marmorino etc...


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

thefinisher said:


> Just wondering how many of you guys do venetian plaster on a relatively current basis. Would like to offer it to some of our builders but I would like to check with some of you guys on things to look out for. I was thinking perhaps $5 a foot labor and materials or just time and materials. I understand the basic concepts and it wouldn't be hard to apply, but I just don't want to dive in unless I have covered all my bases. I know behr,valspar, and Sherwin Williams carries a form of venetian plaster but I am not sure on the quality compared to a traditional marmorino etc...


I like the behr Venetian plaster. It's slaked lime with out marble dust. Apply it the same as marmorino. $5 a foot is for 2 coats And burnishing. For more amazing effects with depth and dimension Add white ( no tint added) between two coats of color. Then minwax and buffing wheel For 100% surface shine.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I have been using the SWP and apply up to 6 steps for $6 bucks a foot. My first step is a tinted primer at 30-50% color. Followed by 4 coats of VP then a burnish. Havent really needed to do a wax coat as everything really hardens up after burnishing. I would definately recommend waxing though for hallways and tight quarters. My trick to avoid scratches using 600 grit on trowel before starting each coat . . Then mix product and leave the lid partially open overnite. This lets it thicken up a bit so it doesnt slide off the trowel as easy. Probly my favorite thing to do as its easy,looks great, and is profitable.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

boco said:


> I have been using the SWP and apply up to 6 steps for $6 bucks a foot. My first step is a tinted primer at 30-50% color. Followed by 4 coats of VP then a burnish. Havent really needed to do a wax coat as everything really hardens up after burnishing. I would definately recommend waxing though for hallways and tight quarters. My trick to avoid scratches using 600 grit on trowel before starting each coat . . Then mix product and leave the lid partially open overnite. This lets it thicken up a bit so it doesnt slide off the trowel as easy. Probly my favorite thing to do as its easy,looks great, and is profitable.


I always Recommend skimcoating the surface the vp is like putting high gloss on walls it will Magnify any flaws in the wall. I find outside corners to be the toughest To work with. I find myself getting lost in the work Adding layers and dimension and colors Then realizing I bid $5 dollars a foot Three days later. Personal satisfaction is sometimes worth more than money. 

Any tips on outside corners?


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

For outside angle I just try and continue the walls like its not even there. Same way with the inside angles. If theres a break a 20" advanced knife works well as a sheild. For creating strait lines I like the yellow frog tape. For drywall prep I would say a level 4 is ok but just make sure to check it with a light (300Wbulb). The swp stuff isnt quite as shiny as the behr but its about the same thickness. If theres a small scratch i like to try and hide it with the rat tail (roller mark) from a miniroller. Fill in the scratch with roller mark wait a minute then try and float over it without removing product. If that doesnt work then simply create a stop and go there . Whatever it takes to fill gap and and blend it in. i use my 10' VP knife in most cases but for corners and tight spots i bought the set of small knives availible at swp. For anyone just starting out I would recommend doing a test run on a 2x2 sheet of primed drywall. I do this before starting any job. Do a test sample get it looked at by the GC/homeowner.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

boco said:


> For outside angle I just try and continue the walls like its not even there. Same way with the inside angles. If theres a break a 20" advanced knife works well as a sheild. For creating strait lines I like the yellow frog tape. For drywall prep I would say a level 4 is ok but just make sure to check it with a light (300Wbulb). The swp stuff isnt quite as shiny as the behr but its about the same thickness. If theres a small scratch i like to try and hide it with the rat tail (roller mark) from a miniroller. Fill in the scratch with roller mark wait a minute then try and float over it without removing product. If that doesnt work then simply create a stop and go there . Whatever it takes to fill gap and and blend it in. i use my 10' VP knife in most cases but for corners and tight spots i bought the set of small knives availible at swp. For anyone just starting out I would recommend doing a test run on a 2x2 sheet of primed drywall. I do this before starting any job. Do a test sample get it looked at by the GC/homeowner.


Yes I do the same with pattern and flow Around corners. I have a hard time getting the VP to stick to the outside corners. On the very corner. Maybe slims glue trick will work? Mix the vp with a little glue on my hawk. Just enough to do the outside corners. Never tried it but that's a new idea. Pavon is my choice of tools for vp. I do all my work with Halogen lights, even the chit jobs. I'm a good painter but I would rather be on my hawk & trowel And I turn down a lot of painting work. I usually have another job to go to And the painter needs to eat too.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Ok. I got ya now. I hit all my metal bead (just the edge) with a spray can of binz. For dark colors marine grade primer will work(grey). Both availible at swp. When in doubt try using a piece of crinkled newpaper or sponge.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Good info guys. I'm thinking the builders will like the products that produce a high shine so it will need a the marble dust in it. Maybe I will have to go with firenzecolor?


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

I use Franklin stucco's material, it's expensive but it is by far better than behr or valspar or mcloskys. They are located in Franklin square Long Island.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Good info guys. I'm thinking the builders will like the products that produce a high shine so it will need a the marble dust in it. Maybe I will have to go with firenzecolor?


The problem with plasters is that you're using plaster. That BEHR gallon of product will run you 40. You will need an ultra smooth substrate, and it won't go very far. If you do a price comparison Fresco Harmony will come in 1/4th -1/10 the cost of competitors. The other great aspect is that you're using joint compound, a medium that you already know and are an expert with. Fresco Harmony has a more organic subtle feel but is strong enough to withstand moisture. Shiny finishes can be nice for accent walls but I feel they look goddy on large amounts of sq ft. I make money all day long at 2.50 for existing projects. We can go right over texture with our process without preparatory coats. For new construction we go as low as 1.50. I just bid a whole house as low as 1.30 and I'll make more than the hanging and finish. if you're thinking of entering the specialized wall finishing market, enter it with a product that wont suck all your profit in material cost. If you're interested I'd be happy to send you a sample pack. Message me your address. You will not find an easier more cost efficient, beautiful method of finish as Fresco Harmony.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

Go to Fresco Harmony website. www.frescoharmony.com
Go to products, signature color series. Check out color selection
Go to order... I'll send a very accurate color chart and some sealer with all first orders. You guys are the pioneers. Fresco Harmony is still gearing up to do massive marketing. 
For the price of BEHR venetian plaster $40 you can get two color packs with shipping for $40.
Material BEHR = 1 gal.
Material Fresco Harmony = 7 gal.
BTW, it's rare that I can do a project with less than one color pack (3.5 gal). Like never...
With spreadable mediums you will always need tons of material. Think about how much mud it takes to hand texture a whole house. You wouldn't think of using plaster for that. Why would you use plaster for anything? Builders are hesitant to pay 5.00 per sq ft. Builders are hesitant to pay 3.00 per sq ft. You're competing with texture and paint. It may not seem like it but the builder will always compare those numbers. I've been running these numbers for 9 years. Builders want to do lots of footage. High price points inhibit that.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Just sent you a message. The thing is the only thing we are competing with is paint pricing as everything is slick finish. That was my only thought was plaster will produce a smoother finish without sanding... not sure if you sand the FH?


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Just sent you a message. The thing is the only thing we are competing with is paint pricing as everything is slick finish. That was my only thought was plaster will produce a smoother finish without sanding... not sure if you sand the FH?


I do not sand as this is part of the efficiency. Only on bullnose and some sculpting before each coat. I would not intentionally design a system incorporating sanding. I've sanded enough in my life to know better. There is no doubt you could get Fresco Harmony very smooth, but with my methodology I view the concept of, "smooth" as a vague delusion on any level. Fresco Harmony turns out very smooth but not perfect. It has a very subtle texture, (I mean very subtle) but people are always distracted by how awesome it looks. They're always busy adding rooms to the bid to worry about subtle imperfections. We really have to move away from this paradox of, "smooth walls." It's a huge time waster... Create a couple of samples with out sanding and you'll see what I mean. Over here in NM, I'm constantly covering existing texture which creates subtle imperfections but in the end the walls look amazing. Also I never deviate from the three coat process.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Just sent you a message. The thing is the only thing we are competing with is paint pricing as everything is slick finish. That was my only thought was plaster will produce a smoother finish without sanding... not sure if you sand the FH?


Also in your instance you're competing with, "smooth finish" and paint which is just as time consuming as texture and paint in my opinion. I think your builders and clients will be very happy with the smoothness of Fresco Harmony.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Nick Harmon said:


> Also in your instance you're competing with, "smooth finish" and paint which is just as time consuming as texture and paint in my opinion. I think your builders and clients will be very happy with the smoothness of Fresco Harmony.


Either way we will finish the job out for a smooth finish (level 4) regardless. We always finish out everything for smooth finish even if we know there will be crown, wood work, knock down, popcorn, etc. We want the best surface possible before we do anything else to it. I think the FH's only selling point here is that you will essentially get a level 5 finish and color at the same time which may be enough to get some votes. I'm still on the line whether or not to try and market it to our builders.....


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Either way we will finish the job out for a smooth finish (level 4) regardless. We always finish out everything for smooth finish even if we know there will be crown, wood work, knock down, popcorn, etc. We want the best surface possible before we do anything else to it. I think the FH's only selling point here is that you will essentially get a level 5 finish and color at the same time which may be enough to get some votes. I'm still on the line whether or not to try and market it to our builders.....


Agreed. I understand being cautious. This is blue water. I also appreciate the attention to a nicely finished substrate as the nicer the finish the nicer the Fresco Harmony. I'm glad we've at least captured your attention. This is more than a product. It's a concept. It's an attempt at breaking the current drywall paradigm. The current margins are too slim. I've spent 8 years working on this. I've done over 200 projects and worked with a bunch of builders. I've come up against almost any patching situation. Fresco Harmony is a new way to finish walls utilizing the medium you are currently using. It's a strike against overpriced plasters and I love that it caters to Dry wallers. Will any of the other products giving you the attention I will? Have any of the other product inventors ever been a dry waller? Important points when venturing into this realm.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Nick, so this is basically color tint in compound?


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

fenez said:


> Nick, so this is basically color tint in compound?


There are two parts to the Fresco Harmony equation. One is the color formula, or color pack, and the other is the process. Mud is unlike plaster. It goes on differently. I've developed a specialized color line based on what clients have wanted over the last 8 years. This is the only color line currently available based on a box of mud. Now that it is in place, it's very easy to use. I wish there was a Fresco Harmony system 9 years ago. I've seen other people put paint and color in mud and it's sh!t. I've yet to see any other system like what We're doing. You're welcome to google colored mud, pigmented mud, tinted mud and whatever else you like. The only thing that will come up is that lame blue and yellow tint for patching and Fresco Harmony. This is why we've obtained a patent pending status on the process and color system. You're welcome to spend the next 3 years developing your own system, or use our working color system that is priced very low, use our website to market those colors to existing clients, get technical support, and start making money immediately. There has been nothing basic except for the result. Great question. 
Nick Harmon


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Holy [email protected] man, I have had enough, Do you really think bull chit baffles brains is going to work on a professional drywall site. Your selling tinted mud for gods sake:furious:

To just quote one thing you say

We really have to move away from this paradox of, "smooth walls."

Really, and it's your system that is going to do that:blink:. We pay for the mud or sheet rock, and stuff your goop in it. You brag you went as low as $1.30 on new construction. where I live, that will get you a house rocked out, taped, with KD spray, everything supplied.

Then your bragging mud is better than plaster, tell me why I shouldn't use veneer plaster, which would be stronger and last longer.

I will be nice and say I checked out you website and vids, and your work looked nice (might be b/c you don't know how to use a knife or trowel:whistling2 but please, your system is no game changer, it's a specialty product, and it's a time consuming long process to do also.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

2buckcanuck said:


> Holy [email protected] man, I have had enough, Do you really think bull chit baffles brains is going to work on a professional drywall site. Your selling tinted mud for gods sake:furious:
> 
> To just quote one thing you say
> 
> ...


I'd like to invite you to really investigate putting all that effort in to a smooth finish. Is this really the best idea? A boring smooth finish that is never really smooth anyway (hence, the paradox). You are mistaking bragging for factual information.
*Plaster cracks, it's difficult to patch, it's difficult to use, it's color is inconsistent, it doesn't keep, it's expensive, and it's done. It consumes 9% of a dying industry, and hard doesn't equal better. You ever try to hang a picture on plaster?* 
Then comes along American Clay. Thanks a lot guys. How much does that sh!t cost again? I'm offering a $15 color pack that goes into mud and I'm showing a technique that works. Thats all. You get perfect color, it doesn't crack, it's easy to apply, you can patch with it, and it keeps. If you want to make extra money you should use it. That Sherwin Williams is what 7 coats? Um, no thanks. Can we get a sq ft material cost on that stuff? Fresco Harmony was created by a drywaller for Drywallers. I'm not selling tinted mud. I'm selling a Color Pack. BTW thx for the compliment. Love this forum.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

Lastly...


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Nick I wasnt trying to belittle your product in any way. . But colored mud and Venetian plaster are 2 way difeeent finishes.
And since you are into goolgle try googleing diffs system from usg
Ive used it many many times and it is exactly what you are selling its nothing new


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

For what its worth, I emailed the fresco harmony link to one of our builders who seemed interested. We will see what happens.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

fenez said:


> Nick I wasnt trying to belittle your product in any way. . But colored mud and Venetian plaster are 2 way difeeent finishes.
> And since you are into goolgle try googleing diffs system from usg
> Ive used it many many times and it is exactly what you are selling its nothing new


Link please. Still didn't find a color chart or system from USG to color ap joint compound.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Its was called difs..decorative interior finish system.. ive used in many times, it's a relatively old product. What they sold was the colorant and then the customer would mix it with veneer plaster. It worked well with joint compound also.. but what they were selling is basically the same thing you are selling which is the colorant..


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

fenez said:


> Its was called difs..decorative interior finish system.. ive used in many times, it's a relatively old product. What they sold was the colorant and then the customer would mix it with veneer plaster. It worked well with joint compound also.. but what they were selling is basically the same thing you are selling which is the colorant..


Yea my friend also tried the stucco colorant in mud but it didn't work because it was designed for stucco and had no consistency. Plaster color systems are designed for plaster. Fresco Harmony is designed for joint compound. No other company has designed such a system for mud. If you've used color in mud I'd like to hear your experience on that. Currently you have provided no evidence for your statements and you're yet to provide a Link.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Ok Nick, you are right, the system never existed and your product is new and different, because no one here has ever seen colorant put into joint compound...
My god how ever did you come up with such an idea.?


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Fresco® Plaster Finish was invented by Warren Nass in an attempt to satisfy a marketable demand for a wall finish reminiscent of the old Italian Frescoes in landmarks such as the Sistine Chapel. 
http://www.frescoplaster.com/


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Bright star, that's exactly the same product as the usg stuff, it's basically just colorant that gets mixed into the plaster, it is a nice finish.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

fenez said:


> Bright star, that's exactly the same product as the usg stuff, it's basically just colorant that gets mixed into the plaster, it is a nice finish.


Yes it looks like a nice finish. I make my own fresco with blue chalk and topping compound.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fenez said:


> Ok Nick, you are right, the system never existed and your product is new and different, because no one here has ever seen colorant put into joint compound...
> My god how ever did you come up with such an idea.?


Come on Fenez, open up on him with both barrels







:thumbup:


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

2 buck, I wasn't trying to be a douche bag to the guy, but I was just pointing out that its an old system that I'm sure every taper has tried at some point, plus the difference with compound is when you are finished it still stains if you don't seal it with something and its no where near as durable, there is absolutely no comparison between compound and venetian. I had great results with colored materials, both compound and plaster but found the compound to be less durable which is why it is really only good for ceilings.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fenez said:


> 2 buck, I wasn't trying to be a douche bag to the guy, but I was just pointing out that its an old system that I'm sure every taper has tried at some point, plus the difference with compound is when you are finished it still stains if you don't seal it with something and its no where near as durable, there is absolutely no comparison between compound and venetian. I had great results with colored materials, both compound and plaster but found the compound to be less durable which is why it is really only good for ceilings.


I know, we all know this, but he don't seem to:whistling2:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> I know, we all know this, but he don't seem to:whistling2:


Fresco is lime base. Like Venetian or marmorino


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

fenez said:


> 2 buck, I wasn't trying to be a douche bag to the guy, but I was just pointing out that its an old system that I'm sure every taper has tried at some point, plus the difference with compound is when you are finished it still stains if you don't seal it with something and its no where near as durable, there is absolutely no comparison between compound and venetian. I had great results with colored materials, both compound and plaster but found the compound to be less durable which is why it is really only good for ceilings.


Does this bar top count as innovative? It's not plaster, but its pretty cool.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

That bar top is very cool


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Nick, only thing missing at the bar are some Hooters girls!!!! JK


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

plaster is still very popular in a few ares out here.Most all the custom homes have some in it. There are only a few outfits that do plaster so they get all the jobs, and they are expensive as hell. If I could get in the door with this product and snag some work from the overpriced plaster guys ( all mex crews zero white) and get my guys in there making money . Most plaster finishes also get a clear or wax over the top and the durability factor is the same as a conventionally done home that was textured.Plaster is nice , dont get me wrong, try patching over it Try painting over some of it Great stuff, not like it used to be. I feel the overpricing of plaster work is killing it off and opening the doors for a more cost effective approach. I think Fresco Harmony could be one


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

chris said:


> plaster is still very popular in a few ares out here.Most all the custom homes have some in it. There are only a few outfits that do plaster so they get all the jobs, and they are expensive as hell. If I could get in the door with this product and snag some work from the overpriced plaster guys ( all mex crews zero white) and get my guys in there making money . Most plaster finishes also get a clear or wax over the top and the durability factor is the same as a conventionally done home that was textured.Plaster is nice , dont get me wrong, try patching over it Try painting over some of it Great stuff, not like it used to be. I feel the overpricing of plaster work is killing it off and opening the doors for a more cost effective approach. I think Fresco Harmony could be one


Getting perfect color consistency with the Fresco Harmony color line is only one part of the process. Yes, others have tried it. The softness of the medium is a trade off for the efficiency of use. I feel I've solved this with the incorporation of a trowel on clear acrylic sealer. We absolutely recommend this type of sealer. It still isn't bullet proof bit it's twice as strong as American Clay. I do appreciate an intelligent conversation on the subject. 
Thank you for all the input.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Nick Harmon said:


> Getting perfect color consistency with the Fresco Harmony color line is only one part of the process. Yes, others have tried it. The softness of the medium is a trade off for the efficiency of use. I feel I've solved this with the incorporation of a trowel on clear acrylic sealer. We absolutely recommend this type of sealer. It still isn't bullet proof bit it's twice as strong as American Clay. I do appreciate an intelligent conversation on the subject.
> Thank you for all the input.


Have you ever used the U.S.G green bucket topping? That stuff is 70% lime. Leaves a built proof surface.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

chris said:


> plaster is still very popular in a few ares out here.Most all the custom homes have some in it. There are only a few outfits that do plaster so they get all the jobs, and they are expensive as hell. If I could get in the door with this product and snag some work from the overpriced plaster guys ( all mex crews zero white) and get my guys in there making money . Most plaster finishes also get a clear or wax over the top and the durability factor is the same as a conventionally done home that was textured.Plaster is nice , dont get me wrong, try patching over it Try painting over some of it Great stuff, not like it used to be. I feel the overpricing of plaster work is killing it off and opening the doors for a more cost effective approach. I think Fresco Harmony could be one


I think you should read into his post more closely, I think he is being a bit misleading:yes:

Veneer plaster, a lot of us would have a hard time making it smooth, but to have a bit of a variant or texture/design, we all could do it. But to use it, you half to weigh in the cost of the veneer drywall, veneer plaster, tint if wanted, and wax or maybe paint (which goes twice as far). Veneer plaster is very tough and strong, plus moister resistant.

Venetian plaster has to go over a level 4 (maybe 3) drywalled wall thats primed. He states it is around 40 bucks a gallon . You get a marble finish effect. It's strong and moister resistant also.

Then Nicky one side of trowel user compares his harmony packs of 2 for 40 bucks with shipping, to venetian plasters price of 40 bucks a gallon with limited coverage. He neglects to add in the cost of mud you need to mix his product with. He states one packet does 7 gallons, (why not make one packet do a standard 5 gallon bucket of mud:whistling2,,,, so one pack does a bucket/box of mud, that is applied heavy to a level 3 or 4 wall finish (depending on a tapers skills). How far will a bucket of mud get you coating out a wall????

Then lets examine the picture of the bar he did. It's made of of drywall MUD !!!!!! How many have friends on here that use coasters for their beers, or don't spill their beers:blink:, so lets throw in the cost of some type of a sealant, since mud is not moister or mold resistant.

Only advantage to his system is,,,,, if someone nicks or dings the wall, the mud holds the same colour throughout it. And if a costumer likes a imperfect smooth finish,,, meaning a wall troweled or knifed out ,then sure we all know what that looks like.

You guys can buy into his system all you want, but if I wanted tinted mud, I would go to a paint store to do it, and it works:thumbsup:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Good points 2buck, but you must realize I already skim texture 90% of my work so Im basically adding maybe 1 or 2 simple steps to my system,, which in turn could lead to more ez money:thumbsup:. The cost of plaster scares me FH not so much. I have mixed it and have done some samples. If I can get my lazy arse up I will be doing my fireplace wall feature in my own home. I will post some pics.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

chris said:


> Good points 2buck, but you must realize I already skim texture 90% of my work so Im basically adding maybe 1 or 2 simple steps to my system,, which in turn could lead to more ez money:thumbsup:. The cost of plaster scares me FH not so much. I have mixed it and have done some samples. If I can get my lazy arse up I will be doing my fireplace wall feature in my own home. I will post some pics.


I know you do a lot of skip trowel too:yes:

So you could have a selling point to tint the mud, main point being, if someone nicks, dings or scratches the wall, the colour is all the way through the mud, compared to a painted surface:yes:


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

last week i installed 240ft' 6" crown molding for some good people who run a bed and breakfest buisness.i mentioned the fh. finish to them,they were on board immediatly.i thought they just wanted a couple walls done that are affected by light,they really want roughly 1200 sq.ft. done.i'm thinking 5 boxs mud ,5 bottles tint.it was a easy sell.the room i did in my home with the sample nick had sent me ,came out really well,i'm looking forward to working with it again.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Have you ever used the U.S.G green bucket topping? That stuff is 70% lime. Leaves a built proof surface.


I didn't realize that. It may work better. I've always just liked the accessibility and weight of the blue box. My favorite mud was beadx but I can't get it down here. I'll definitely try the green box. Honestly I just thought it was cheaper.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Can always mix FH up with brown bag durabond...... will be harder than plaster :yes:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Nick Harmon said:


> I didn't realize that. It may work better. I've always just liked the accessibility and weight of the blue box. My favorite mud was beadx but I can't get it down here. I'll definitely try the green box. Honestly I just thought it was cheaper.


Yes, Read the ingredients on the green bucket The number one ingredient is limestone or lime. The buckets weigh 30 to 40 pounds more than the blue. You can also mop the topping in the green buckets Just like putty coat.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Can always mix FH up with brown bag durabond...... will be harder than plaster :yes:


It works and I've done it ( more artistically) but for surface area, ease of use, and working time, I recommend all purpose. With quickset or durabond, you're right back to the elements that make plaster difficult. Being able to save product, or carry batches to the next job is huge. Not sure about the color consistency with that as well.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Yes, Read the ingredients on the green bucket The number one ingredient is limestone or lime. The buckets weigh 30 to 40 pounds more than the blue. You can also mop the topping in the green buckets Just like putty coat.


This is a really great tip. It'll throw the color off a bit as its yellower but the harder nature would be worth it. Thank you!


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Nick Harmon said:


> This is a really great tip. It'll throw the color off a bit as its yellower but the harder nature would be worth it. Thank you!


Yes it is yellower but when it dries it is pure snow white.


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

m







oldings and fresco h on walls


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Looks very nice Mitch:thumbsup: What color did you use if you dont mind me asking?


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

the color was virginia brown.the client was really pleased with the results and so was i.i coated about 800sq.ft. ,all the same color.


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