# What beads you using??



## SaskMud (Jun 9, 2010)

What type of bead you using?? perferances on res. or commercial??

I've been using paper-metal... but am going to try the plastic with the glue spray & staples... dont see to much metal beads around here either..


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## eastex1963 (Nov 6, 2008)

I went FROM plastic and glue/staples. Too many call backs. I use only paper/metal now. Good example why: I miscounted the last job and had to go to a closer supply house that didn't carry bullnose paper/metal. I had to get 1 plastic bn. It cracked when they installed cabinets beside it. It was a return for a bar. One side paper/metal, one side plastic. The plastic side cracked, not the paper/metal.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Paper/Metel sheetrock brand wideline, or goldline if i have too. No Coat for the odd internals. We dont have the plastic you all mention?? and no coat 325 is all we got from that line up.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

paperbead ,plastic if it's bulnose ,easier to make perfect miters and do fancy stuff with plastic,some times use glue,but prefer to use mud with some staples ,some say mud and plastic don't mix,guessing staples make the difference...so far no fixers:blink: use ultra flex on stuff thats a odd ball degree


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I use plastic when I have to. They only make chamfer beads in plastic and that seems to be the fad around here. They're easy to install and miter, I just don't care for the staples not going in far enough to coat over.

Otherwise, I use tape on beads. If done right, I like using USG bead. It's more finicky and doesn't need as much fill as most other branded paper bead. The Super Wide from USG is my favourite.


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

No-Coat all the way!


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Oh yeah, I forgot about No Coat. Too bad all that's supplied here is the 325 and 450. Otherwise, I would be inclined to use their whole lineup.


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

Get your supplier to stock it and never look back!


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## eastex1963 (Nov 6, 2008)

No Coat is the ****! But, what about BN? Do they make something for BN? I haven't seen any. BN comes in paper/metal here. Simple.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

No-coat everywhere on my jobs.Took some money setting up with the hopper & all the rollers.But I have already re-coupe that in a few jobs.
Go to there web site & request there literature & sample pack.It has sold all my builders.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

can you get the no coat in pre cut lengths,say 7,8,9 foot long,if not I can see that sorta time consuming .use it on inside 45's and when you have a lot of them it,cut,cut,cut,bend,bend,bend,open,open,open,gets time consuming
maybe different thread ? but you guys using bead box or tube (mud runner)with applicator ,notice applicator way more faster,lot less walking,you notice that when you get older:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I find that with no coat as well 2buck on the externals, but we only have it in rolls, to slow to apply, dosent stay as straight as paper/metel, corners to sharp, if a child run into the stuff it would cut them, I dont like how the mud does not cover to the edge, but i love it for off set internals, its the best for this but no thanks on the externals IMO.

And one thing i cant seem to get the hang off is the rollers, ok so you mud the corners, or hopper feed a bead, then apply to corners push on a little, then roll it down, im finding its not burying the paper edges right to the metal so when you fill the corner up the little paper edge can be proud. And when its rolled down when you go to feather of the edges you cant adjust it left or right if you need too?? Must be doing something wrong?? I have a sheetrock 90 external roller, the big rubber one and tryed the other white plastic ones. and all the different beads, which we have a choice of two, sheetrock or goldline.

I have found using the cam am with a mud head to apply, then a paper/metal and just get in there and push it on and fill by hand works the best for me, i can adjust it to suit as i go then all the next coats are sweet as. Feel free to tell me what im doing wrong with the rollers, i like the idea of them for speed but the just are not working good enough for me????
Tryed the hooper for the externals as well but found with the cam am and mud head the beads just sit better right from the start.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

yeah agree with every thing you say
with the rollers I think mine is the can am ,black wheels,green handle,works good.when I use a white headed roller ,white handle,makes a mess,in the way you are describing ,but the white one works great on bull nose vinyl,think thats why I bought that one
so yep ,it's your roller I'm guessing,could not google a pic of your roller type so..... not you


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## kgphoto (Dec 21, 2009)

I prefer the four wheel rollers to the two. Jason Cring down in NS or AUS wrote about adjusting rollers to work better with No-Coat on the JLC forums.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> yeah agree with every thing you say
> with the rollers I think mine is the can am ,black wheels,green handle,works good.when I use a white headed roller ,white handle,makes a mess,in the way you are describing ,but the white one works great on bull nose vinyl,think thats why I bought that one
> so yep ,it's your roller I'm guessing,could not google a pic of your roller type so..... not you


Well thats a relief, though i was going to get the piss takin right out of me for this one, Funny as i have a white roller thats good on the bullnose too,
The sheetrock roller i have now is on all walls site i think, black rubber wheels, its a fine well built roller but some one needs to make one that rolls onto the metel as well, not just half the paper. Might as well sell it on. But come to think of it, maybe its made for the super wide sheetrock beads???
The rollers i have tryed are the 4 wheel types for externals KG. Interesting point you make about adjustable rollers, Rick got another idea for you.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> can you get the no coat in pre cut lengths,say 7,8,9 foot long,if not I can see that sorta time consuming .use it on inside 45's and when you have a lot of them it,cut,cut,cut,bend,bend,bend,open,open,open,gets time consuming
> maybe different thread ? but you guys using bead box or tube (mud runner)with applicator ,notice applicator way more faster,lot less walking,you notice that when you get older:yes:


NoCoat does make their beads in 8', 9', 10'. They are great. And they fold out great for trays that are 45 degree.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

I'm still using metal bead for 90º outside corners. Old school I guess, but that's what I like. Started using No-Coat for outside off angles last year. Kind of like them, but still not fluent with them.

Two years ago started using No-Coat for inside off angles and love it for that. Question though. Even after setting the No-Coat as tight as I can into the corners, I still have about an 1/8" gap or so when I place a 6" knife in the corner as a straight edge. Should that be filled? I have been just skimming a couple times after the corner dries the first time, and it always looks decent, but always thought the "ramp up" into the corner was a little drastic.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Have you tried prefilling your corner and letting it dry and then putting the tape on? Might get rid of that void or hump. I have had that same trouble.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

wnybassman said:


> I'm still using metal bead for 90º outside corners. Old school I guess, but that's what I like. Started using No-Coat for outside off angles last year. Kind of like them, but still not fluent with them.
> 
> Two years ago started using No-Coat for inside off angles and love it for that. Question though. Even after setting the No-Coat as tight as I can into the corners, I still have about an 1/8" gap or so when I place a 6" knife in the corner as a straight edge. Should that be filled? I have been just skimming a couple times after the corner dries the first time, and it always looks decent, but always thought the "ramp up" into the corner was a little drastic.


Once you get all set up with the hopper & rollers,you will never want to put on a metal bead ever again,I promise.
On some off angles you need to fill that void,some angles i fill right to the blue line after I install.Let dry & polish it out,then hand sponge it smooth after dry.Then again some angles just need the edge skimmed,use your judgment on wich way to go.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Final touch drywall said:


> On some off angles you need to fill that void,some angles i fill right to the blue line after I install.Let dry & polish it out,then hand sponge it smooth after dry.Then again some angles just need the edge skimmed,use your judgment on wich way to go.


That's basically what I have been doing I guess. It seems worse on cathedral ceilings where the framing isn't quite right and the corner kinda wants to walk back and forth a tad. I try to keep it as straight as possible and then get that situation where there is a void on one side or the other. I fill those right to the center as well, and skim over on subsequent coats.

I was just thinking with a name like "No Coat" I was wondering if I should be filling at all lol


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

wnybassman said:


> That's basically what I have been doing I guess. It seems worse on cathedral ceilings where the framing isn't quite right and the corner kinda wants to walk back and forth a tad. I try to keep it as straight as possible and then get that situation where there is a void on one side or the other. I fill those right to the center as well, and skim over on subsequent coats.
> 
> I was just thinking with a name like "No Coat" I was wondering if I should be filling at all lol


"No-Coat" is just the name. If you read on the box (either boxed tape or sticks) it says right on the box, "for best results, skim entire bead".

I like the "box" stuff (like level-line) for inside corners, I run it all the way to the blue line on both sides for both coats. I like no-coat beads (sticks) for outside corners, however, the price is not justified in the current market. 

When I use paper/faced beads, I Always run my bed coat on the flats before I stick the beads on, eliminates the "blister" when you put em on over just a tape coat. If the hangers alerted, and run the board all the way to edge on overlap, I use my mud-runner to apply the mud with an outside head, If they arn't alerted and brake the rock back to the edge of the stud,leaving a gap between the boards at the corner, I use a hopper to install the beads, cause when they do this, the outside head will leave a gob of mud laying on the floor, cause your trying to fill a "gap" where there is no rock.

Right now, I use metal beads from Lowes, cause no-one wants to pay the extra costs for the alternitives. Oh yeah, by the way I think that plastic beads are pure junk, just my opinion.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Paper faced metal from phillips,with hopper,cant beat the results. Time is money!!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

DSJOHN said:


> Paper faced metal from phillips,with hopper,cant beat the results. Time is money!!!


I agree with that DSJohn, But I'm old enough that I can do stuff just for principle these days,,, heck I got 7 grandkids. it ain't like i have to do it anymore, I just do it cause I ain't got anything better to do. 

That being said, I use metal cause its all about "how cheap can I get it done". I know that the paperfaced metal is actually cheaper for me, time wise,, but I will not give it to em, when they are only interested in "cheap".

I know how to do it "right" and I know how to do it "cheap".
They can have it "right" or they can have it "right now" but they CAN"T have it both ways.

I know, I know,,, I'm getting to old and I need to retire,,, but hey, it is fun to mess with em abit


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> "No-Coat" is just the name. If you read on the box (either boxed tape or sticks) it says right on the box, "for best results, skim entire bead".
> 
> I like the "box" stuff (like level-line) for inside corners, I run it all the way to the blue line on both sides for both coats. I like no-coat beads (sticks) for outside corners, however, the price is not justified in the current market.
> 
> ...


Hi Capt, have you used a cam an external head on your mudrunner, its a bit different than a mud head as it only leaves one bead of mud each side about as far in as the paper sits on the paper metal trim, you wouldnt have the problem that the mudhead is giving you and you wouldnt need to get the hopper out, just swap your mud head for the cam an head and you could stay on the mudrunner. The mudhead prob works better but the cam am is handy for those gappy corners you mention.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> the price is not justified in the current market.



May I ask what are they charging you for a 8ft stick of No-coat.
I only pay about 60cents more than standard metal.I make that up in mud easily.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Final touch drywall said:


> May I ask what are they charging you for a 8ft stick of No-coat.
> I only pay about 60cents more than standard metal.I make that up in mud easily.


No-Coat beads are over $3.00 here, where metal is $1.20

But again, when someone STRESSES that cheap is what they want,,, I give em cheap.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Hi Capt, have you used a cam an external head on your mudrunner, its a bit different than a mud head as it only leaves one bead of mud each side about as far in as the paper sits on the paper metal trim, you wouldnt have the problem that the mudhead is giving you and you wouldnt need to get the hopper out, just swap your mud head for the cam an head and you could stay on the mudrunner. The mudhead prob works better but the cam am is handy for those gappy corners you mention.


Interesting Cazna, I'll have to check that out, thanks for the heads up !!


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I buy NoCoat, nine foot sticks for 2.00 each. Don't ya hate it when somebody tells you what they pay for stuff?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> I buy NoCoat, nine foot sticks for 2.00 each. Don't ya hate it when somebody tells you what they pay for stuff?


I hear ya, wish I could get em for that.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Sherwin Williams ordered them in for me. I thought it was a good price. They asked if I wanted them to order teh Auqua beads. Any thoughts on those? I told tehm no for now. I wanted to ask you guys first.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Tim0282 said:


> Sherwin Williams ordered them in for me. I thought it was a good price. They asked if I wanted them to order teh Auqua beads. Any thoughts on those? I told tehm no for now. I wanted to ask you guys first.



Tim, What are Auqua beads?

I also pay about 2.00 per stick for No-Coat from a local DW supply.

It's amazing how fast I can stick them and coat them, and how little mud they take


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

AquaBead is the newest offering from Certainteed. It's got an adhesive already on it, you just spray it with water and stick it on. I don't know anyone brave enough to try it around here.

You can check it out here :http://insulate.com/pressroom/pressRelease.aspx?id=326


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

No Coat makes one, too.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

All you guys know I ain't the sharpest knife in the drawer,,, but No-Coat is their worst eneny. When they try to sell a bead that is 3X the price of metal,,,,,,,, WHAT are they thinking?????

Don't know bout the rest of the world, but if I had a product that was BETTER, I would not offer it at 3X the price of the acceptted norm.

just saying,,, ya know???


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

in my neck of the woods we can only get the no coat/ultra flex by the roll,when you do the math ,thats $5.00 a eight foot stick (60 bucks a roll).
the one thing I don't think I would like about the no coat is the sharp point it would leave as cazna stated in a earlier post,yes I know all the pro's for no coat;but even though I don't use metal bead no more I miss that nice shiny edge (nose) left behind .it looked nice
And while were on beads Bevalation was sorta referring to this.I like the B1U's with paper bead,where both sides of metal wide,the nose is fatter but that makes them require a bit more mud to fill,just a bit more,To me the B1W's suck,one side of the metal fatter than the other,but the nose is smaller and they take less mud to fill.just suck when you put them on......you have to think when installing them....that could hurt a tapers brain:jester::blink:
oh ,and if a painter ever complains about the burr left behind on paper bead nose (b/c it's not smooth like the metal [sucky babies]run a damp sponge or clothe down the nose,makes them LOOK smoother when they paint


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## WallDoctor (Jul 5, 2010)

My favorite bead which is plaster metal mini-bead. It is the same size as regular metal bead but instead of solid metal with a few holes for bonding and nailing it's a mesh. I staple it on, can easily adjust it to size, pull staples if I have to easily. It NEVER cracks unlike nailed on bead which sometimes pulls in if the wood is too green. Also the mesh allows the mud to bond really nice to the drywall.

I also have always loved that solid metal look when everything is sanded off and you don't have to worry about paper bead sometimes getting frayed if you work it too hard.

But I'm probably the only one who uses the mini-bead but I see it as the highest quality of products---but of course, that's just personal opinion. And we all got those. 









PS...Hope nobody says, "Hey, look at the idiot using a plaster product for drywall, MORON!!!"


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

yeah I used them before ,think they invented that bead for that venear (sp) plaster(as u sorta stated),that's what we were using them for,but to me their the better metal bead if your going to use them.question everyone will have for you is $$$$$$$
but they should incorporate that design to the vinyl bead,save them on material


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> in my neck of the woods we can only get the no coat/ultra flex by the roll,when you do the math ,thats $5.00 a eight foot stick (60 bucks a roll).
> the one thing I don't think I would like about the no coat is the sharp point it would leave as cazna stated in a earlier post,yes I know all the pro's for no coat;but even though I don't use metal bead no more I miss that nice shiny edge (nose) left behind .it looked nice
> And while were on beads Bevalation was sorta referring to this.I like the B1U's with paper bead,where both sides of metal wide,the nose is fatter but that makes them require a bit more mud to fill,just a bit more,To me the B1W's suck,one side of the metal fatter than the other,but the nose is smaller and they take less mud to fill.just suck when you put them on......you have to think when installing them....that could hurt a tapers brain:jester::blink:
> oh ,and if a painter ever complains about the burr left behind on paper bead nose (b/c it's not smooth like the metal [sucky babies]run a damp sponge or clothe down the nose,makes them LOOK smoother when they paint


The box (rolled) product, like level-line, is really good stuff, but NOT to be confused with "BEADS". They are two differant animals


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