# Pro's vs Joe's.. What is YOUR take as a finisher with a sanding light..?



## Shootrock (Jul 12, 2016)

I always use a 500 watt halogen.. But damn, I'd lovvvve it if I didn't have to carry that damn thing along the side of every wall... Let alone not deal with a cord.. Or let alone spend too long on each wall or sand into the first coat cuz it glows so bright it goes through that skim coat...


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I'm I the only one that hates light check?


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## Aussiecontractor (Oct 6, 2014)

Yer light check is a pain but it's the difference between a nice job and a really nice job... Caz.... Was watching a fishing show on the weekend they were fishing for tuna out from grey mouth ..... Holly chit 400kg fish you guys get off the coast looked like awsome fun except the 30 hour wait to hook up to a fish 


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Yep its true mate, Bluefin tuna at hoki season, Huge arnt they.

I actually mostly just use a 250 halogen on the tri frame for light check, They are old as but 500w is too much and LEDS are a bit to weak.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I use a 250 w halogen for light check


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

My Sanders will run a 500w quickly over their work after they machine. Usually that does a good job. But we always do our touch ups after its been primed anyway. Will see way more imperfections this way.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

ÏThat's what annoys me about light check, Stare at it all you want, Once that paint goes on theres more you find then.

Its almost a waste of time, What you can see with day lights often enough, Well it is for me. Ive done it for hrs, Gone to work early morn in the dark to try and find everything I could, Over and over for years, Nope, Paint goes on and dam, There they are. So why bother, I tend to sand, Clean up, Have a good look about, Sort what I see and I'm out, Seldom to I light check. The painters come along and prime then light check and touch up, Sometimes I come back and do it with them just to be sure. Its so much easier and so many less issues once that primers on you all know it.

If you find a dent or scratch in a seam you cant touch it up and sand back very well unless its primed, Or it has to dry first so you have to come back, Or you pencil it and then the painters come screaming in and paint over your touch ups making a bigger touch up for you to sort out, and often dents and scratches don't show till that primers on.

So, Screw light check, Its a waste of time and effort that can only cause you more work behind painters, Do it once primed.

I think 2buck once said they check light before sand day. 

There you all go, Come at me and argue sh!te out me Lol. :yes:


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## dieselman350 (Aug 21, 2012)

cazna said:


> ÏThat's what annoys me about light check, Stare at it all you want, Once that paint goes on theres more you find then.
> 
> Its almost a waste of time, What you can see with day lights often enough, Well it is for me. Ive done it for hrs, Gone to work early morn in the dark to try and find everything I could, Over and over for years, Nope, Paint goes on and dam, There they are. So why bother, I tend to sand, Clean up, Have a good look about, Sort what I see and I'm out, Seldom to I light check. The painters come along and prime then light check and touch up, Sometimes I come back and do it with them just to be sure. Its so much easier and so many less issues once that primers on you all know it.
> 
> ...


Agreed.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

cazna said:


> ÏThat's what annoys me about light check, Stare at it all you want, Once that paint goes on theres more you find then.
> 
> Its almost a waste of time, What you can see with day lights often enough, Well it is for me. Ive done it for hrs, Gone to work early morn in the dark to try and find everything I could, Over and over for years, Nope, Paint goes on and dam, There they are. So why bother, I tend to sand, Clean up, Have a good look about, Sort what I see and I'm out, Seldom to I light check. The painters come along and prime then light check and touch up, Sometimes I come back and do it with them just to be sure. Its so much easier and so many less issues once that primers on you all know it.
> 
> ...


Lol, I agree 100%. Heck if you want to split hairs you will see more when first coat of color goes on also. And some things "go away" with a little paint.


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

And some things "go away" with a little paint.[/QUOTE] 

I've often wondered about that. I don't very much get to go back and see after the painter had started. How many little scratches, swirl marks etc that I fuss about will actually get hidden by paint anyway.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

D A Drywall said:


> And some things "go away" with a little paint.


I've often wondered about that. I don't very much get to go back and see after the painter had started. How many little scratches, swirl marks etc that I fuss about will actually get hidden by paint anyway.[/QUOTE]
Many times a good primer and with a backfill will hide most small imperfections like swirl marks or pin holes. Alot of it depends on the painter.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Yes ..A lot of It has to do with the painters process .


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## Aussiecontractor (Oct 6, 2014)

Yer one who does one coat of primer and 2 coats of paint with a roller...not watered down paint and doing 2 coats with a spray gun 


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

I am a professional of 12 years, backed by over 100 years in mentors. Here is the problem with using halogen. Sunlight is never stationary, I will not sand without a light that I can hold in my hand and move around, illuminating the wall from every possible angle. 100 watt drop light is Ideal. I have switched to a might-D-light, it has a great hand held design, but it should be atleast twice as bright as it is. I have requested from the MFG to make me a light of similar desing with atleast 800 lumen and long battery life. You will hear people complain about the color of LED light. Nonsense. LED lighting more closely mimics daylight than a service bulb. It is the sun that exposes the most.look for a hand held LED of 800 to 1000 lumen, somewhere near the 55k k color range.


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## Miss.mud'n'paint (Jul 7, 2016)

I just started using these LED's. So far I like them much better


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## Miss.mud'n'paint (Jul 7, 2016)

Utili tech pro.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Krsw85 said:


> I am a professional of 12 years, backed by over 100 years in mentors. Here is the problem with using halogen. Sunlight is never stationary, I will not sand without a light that I can hold in my hand and move around, illuminating the wall from every possible angle. 100 watt drop light is Ideal. I have switched to a might-D-light, it has a great hand held design, but it should be atleast twice as bright as it is. I have requested from the MFG to make me a light of similar desing with atleast 800 lumen and long battery life. You will hear people complain about the color of LED light. Nonsense. LED lighting more closely mimics daylight than a service bulb. It is the sun that exposes the most.look for a hand held LED of 800 to 1000 lumen, somewhere near the 55k k color range.


1000 led ain't enough !


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

moore said:


> 1000 led ain't enough !




I think a 500 W halogen is 10,000 lumens.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

fr8train said:


> I think a 500 W halogen is 10,000 lumens.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Not the same shine tho.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

It's doable. A lumen is roughly equivalent to one candle. Just enough LEDs in the right temp range and bingo.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

I didn't like the led light when I first got it. But now I'm used to it. It's fine once your eyes adjust to it.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

To correct myself, a 500 watt halogen is 8,000 lumens.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

Your right its not enough if your using a stationary halogen light. If you have the light in yoir hand and you can move it around it's more than enough. Let me ask you something. How many times have you ever seen the sun sit still? Then why would you sand with a stationary light? Every time you change the angle of the lighting, something new shows up, no matter how bright your light is.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

fr8train said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > 1000 led ain't enough !
> ...


Moor I don't mean to put you down man. Im not sure where you live, but where I live we get extreme temperature fluctuations, If we do not put mesh on the edge of corner bead and trim bead it breaks.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Krsw85 said:


> Moor I don't mean to put you down man. Im not sure where you live, but where I live we get extreme temperature fluctuations, If we do not put mesh on the edge of corner bead and trim bead it breaks.


You still using shiny 90s?


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

If by shiney 90s you mean clinch on corner bead, absolutely. It squares up better, you never have the problem of glue grabbing too soon and sticking where you dont want it. On radius I use vinyl, but I wont use the glue because all too often it grabs where and when you don't want it too. I set it into 90 minute setting type so that I can eliminate any flat spots, mesh the edge of it and coat it preferably in one mix as it encases the bead and bonds best when its all one mix.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

moore said:


> Krsw85 said:
> 
> 
> > Moor I don't mean to put you down man. Im not sure where you live, but where I live we get extreme temperature fluctuations, If we do not put mesh on the edge of corner bead and trim bead it breaks.
> ...


The biggest reason I hear to steer away from metal corner bead is that its harder to repair, but if the hanging is right and the edges of the sheets are nearly flush, it doesnt get and stronger than metal and will rarely need any kind of repair in the next 2 decades.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

Krsw85 said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > Krsw85 said:
> ...


They started meshing the edges of the corner bead around here about 15 or 20 years ago. The noticed it was always the edge of the bead breaking. They covered the edges with paper for a while. But its difficult to do a clean job with a flat tape over bead edges in paper, so they started using mesh, same effect, much easier to handle.... it definately keeps that edge from cracking.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

Krsw85 said:


> Krsw85 said:
> 
> 
> > moore said:
> ...


When I first started we were doing a new multi million dollar coastal residence just about every week. They expect the home to look good for a very long time, we even mesh the edge of vinyl bead for the same reason. It lasts longer. The edges on any kind of bead is the weakest point. It maybe over kill on some jobs, I do it every where


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Krsw85 said:


> If by shiney 90s you mean clinch on corner bead, absolutely. It squares up better, you never have the problem of glue grabbing too soon and sticking where you dont want it. On radius I use vinyl, but I wont use the glue because all too often it grabs where and when you don't want it too. I set it into 90 minute setting type so that I can eliminate any flat spots, mesh the edge of it and coat it preferably in one mix as it encases the bead and bonds best when its all one mix.





Krsw85 said:


> The biggest reason I hear to steer away from metal corner bead is that its harder to repair, but if the hanging is right and the edges of the sheets are nearly flush, it doesnt get and stronger than metal and will rarely need any kind of repair in the next 2 decades.





Krsw85 said:


> They started meshing the edges of the corner bead around here about 15 or 20 years ago. The noticed it was always the edge of the bead breaking. They covered the edges with paper for a while. But its difficult to do a clean job with a flat tape over bead edges in paper, so they started using mesh, same effect, much easier to handle.... it definately keeps that edge from cracking.





Krsw85 said:


> When I first started we were doing a new multi million dollar coastal residence just about every week. They expect the home to look good for a very long time, we even mesh the edge of vinyl bead for the same reason. It lasts longer. The edges on any kind of bead is the weakest point. It maybe over kill on some jobs, I do it every where


Dude.. This Is 2016 . Go get you some USG B1 WIDES. And leave the mesh at Blowe's for the DIY's to use. :thumbsup:


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## krafty (Jun 30, 2016)

There is one group of hangers here that hang the metal for us so f it we just mud it. But usually NO COAT. But havent used that usg stuff moore runs yet. But that gc has us mesh the edges as well.

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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

You have to mesh the edge ever time, its the first part of the bead thar lets go every time. If I didn't mind doing bare minimum, yea it will last the full years warranty without it, maybe. I've never been called back to a job.... kind of expecting that too happen for the first time next week but its not really my fault. A radius wall 20 feet high level five, the hanging was completely fuked and every butt was busted all to hell some of them no paper attached for atleast 12" and extra joints because the miss measured and slapped the piece up anyway


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

How do you install that stuff? Set it right in some good mud, adjust it, and coat it all at once? I believe thats how I did it when I used similar product a couple years ago.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

krafty said:


> There is one group of hangers here that hang the metal for us so f it we just mud it. But usually NO COAT. But havent used that usg stuff moore runs yet. But that gc has us mesh the edges as well.
> 
> Sent from my LGL16C using Tapatalk


Oh no...
No Coat? I hate that stuff, its not to bad, Ive used it a hand full of times. I lile the Strait flex original for off angles.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Krsw85 said:


> Oh no...
> No Coat? I hate that stuff, its not to bad, Ive used it a hand full of times. I lile the Strait flex original for off angles.


.....


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Oh boy Moore... You can lead a horse to water can't ya?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Oh boy Moore... You can lead a horse to water can't ya?


But fate is another matter.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Krsw85 said:


> Oh no...
> No Coat? I hate that stuff, its not to bad, Ive used it a hand full of times. I lile the Strait flex original for off angles.


http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/fail-5411/


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I looked at repair job a few years back..the vaulted ceiling was 25ft up and went the length of the house over the loft . When I walked in the door I could stand flat footed and touch the straight flex . I had priced the home when it was built but my price was too high. When I told the home owner what it would cost to fix the failed straight flex...guess what?? My price was too high.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

I get a lot of that, no thats too much, oh man can you come fix it please...lol


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

Or this one I've gotten on occasions, can you come baby sit the guy we hired? Ummm no, If im going to teach someone its going to cost you more than my original bid.


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