# Wet on Wet



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

what is everyones thought on wet on wet?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

What are we talking about here?
Can we be a little more specific?
P0rn? Cooking? Slip N Slides?


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Wet on wet is ok with setting compound and fibafuse as long as it gets more time to get dry....BONE DRY! :yes:
If you're talking about p0rn then wet on wet is fine with me :shifty:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

It's good to see that I'm not the only one visualizing happy little bearded clams slipping and sliding and throbbing up against one another.


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## drywalldale (Dec 8, 2012)

What is wet on wet


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

makes bubbles:yes:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> It's good to see that I'm not the only one visualizing happy little bearded clams slipping and sliding and throbbing up against one another.


:laughing:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

drywalldale said:


> What is wet on wet


Doing all 3 coats at once without letting it dry between each coat.
Although some of us are just dirty old men and are picturing 2 hot chicks doing what our wives have no sense of humour about


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I'll let ya know !! I was asked to have these changing rooms ready for paint in 2.5 days......50 boards..Against my way of doing things ,,but for the ching.$...Right or wrong.. I'll give you what you want..
Crown goes up tomorrow :furious: so I had to run 2 coats of 20 min on the bead today 240ft of bead...plus [email protected] all the seams butts and angles ..ONLY 3 buttjoints...Tomorrow I will have carpenters shovin trim up my ass ..and digging into my wet mud ..saw dust mixing into my the skim coat ...They wanted to throw the crown up today...LOL!!! [GRASSHOPPERS] I said no! And then explained why...Ya never no about those young g/cs They may end up bieng alot of work down the road after being well trained:whistling2:


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## RenoRob (Nov 6, 2012)

moore said:


> They wanted to throw the crown up today...LOL!!! [GRASSHOPPERS] I said no!


Wouldn't that have been sweet. Might as well throw on the casing and baseboard while they're at it.  Looking good though.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

RenoRob said:


> Wouldn't that have been sweet. Might as well through on the casing and baseboard while they're at it.  Looking good though.


 This Is Phase 1 of a project that must be completed by the end of this Month...I feel his pain. I will be back for phase 2.. Xmas eve?:blink:
fck it!! I turn nothing down


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

moore said:


> I'll let ya know !! I was asked to have these changing rooms ready for paint in 2.5 days......50 boards..Against my way of doing things ,,but for the ching.$...Right or wrong.. I'll give you what you want..
> Crown goes up tomorrow :furious: so I had to run 2 coats of 20 min on the bead today 240ft of bead...plus [email protected] all the seams butts and angles ..ONLY 3 buttjoints...Tomorrow I will have carpenters shovin trim up my ass ..and digging into my wet mud ..saw dust mixing into my the skim coat ...They wanted to throw the crown up today...LOL!!! [GRASSHOPPERS] I said no! And then explained why...Ya never no about those young g/cs They may end up bieng alot of work down the road after being well trained:whistling2:


Your work is very neat moore. You don't leave much of a mess on the floor. You have to tape the lids? Good job?


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Gotta love backwardsass mall stores :thumbsup: We finished a few recently that "had" to be ready for holiday shopping... a nightmare with scheduling as always. Then with the change orders... I get the "Hey, can you level 5 these textured walls and have em' paint ready tommorow"


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Your work is very neat moore. You don't leave much of a mess on the floor. You have to tape the lids? Good job?


 All walls ..It's a 100+ year old store front..The old ceiling tins are 12''x12'' painted white.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Philma Crevices said:


> Gotta love backwardsass mall stores :thumbsup: We finished a few recently that "had" to be ready for holiday shopping... a nightmare with scheduling as always. Then with the change orders... I get the "Hey, can you level 5 these textured walls and have em' paint ready tommorow"


 This is a bridal store !!! What's the hurry? This time next year......? :whistling2:


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Ahh, no wonder so many dressing rooms.. gotta fit the herd of fatty bridesmaids :whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Philma Crevices said:


> Ahh, no wonder so many dressing rooms.. gotta fit the herd of fatty bridesmaids :whistling2:


 :furious:Whats wrong with a herd of fattys??? I like bouncy!!!:thumbsup::yes:

You Cali boys are spoiled!!!


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Nothin wrong with a little cushion!


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## PaRiggins (Jul 24, 2010)

That reminds me of the Habitat Blitz Build I was in charge of. I was talking to the drywall guys and I wanted them in and out in 24 hours. They ended up using 20 minute mud. We had some spots to sand when they left but it all worked out.

We did two houses and one of the drywall companies contacted a friend who was involved in a Extreme Home Makover. Here's how they did it. One morning, they applied their first coat (bedding) and second coat of mud before lunch. Then everyone was required to leave the house. They turned on a commercial air dryer and when lunch was over, the mud was dry. They put on the third coat and it was ready the next day. It was said that if you stayed in the house when the dryer was working, it would suck the moisture right out of your skin.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

PaRiggins said:


> That reminds me of the Habitat Blitz Build I was in charge of. I was talking to the drywall guys and I wanted them in and out in 24 hours. They ended up using 20 minute mud. We had some spots to sand when they left but it all worked out.
> 
> We did two houses and one of the drywall companies contacted a friend who was involved in a Extreme Home Makover. Here's how they did it. One morning, they applied their first coat (bedding) and second coat of mud before lunch. Then everyone was required to leave the house. They turned on a commercial air dryer and when lunch was over, the mud was dry. They put on the third coat and it was ready the next day. It was said that if you stayed in the house when the dryer was working, it would suck the moisture right out of your skin.


But how did it look months later...


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## PaRiggins (Jul 24, 2010)

I went in to fix a few nail pops and the rest of the house looks good.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

wet on wet works great with fibefuse and if the hanger are good...I get some jobs that the hangers are not so good and there are 1' holes in the corners and the wet on wet will not work so good ...


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

PrecisionTaping said:


> What are we talking about here?
> Can we be a little more specific?
> P0rn? Cooking? Slip N Slides?


forgot what site your on girly


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Drywall_King said:


> what is everyones thought on wet on wet?


waste of time, you should know this


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Wound up to be 67 boards ...2.5 days.
Painters were behind me in a cloud of dust.
The floor sanders walked in when I walked out.
I wasn't proud of what I left behind,,,But I made good $$ And gave em what they asked for!!! 20 MIN TAKES 2 DAYS AT 70 DEGREES TO DRY!= FACT!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> Wound up to be 67 boards ...2.5 days.
> Painters were behind me in a cloud of dust.
> The floor sanders walked in when I walked out.
> I wasn't proud of what I left behind,,,But I made good $$ And gave em what they asked for!!! 20 MIN TAKES 2 DAYS AT 70 DEGREES TO DRY!= FACT!


We have to remember, we are selling a service here.

I like to tell em, "You can have it right,,,or you can have it right now,,, but ya can't have it both ways"

I'll sell it either way,,,, guess I'm sleasy......... Heck, I know I am,,,LOL:thumbup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I offer no guarantees no callbacks when using inferior products or methods not suggested by manufactures and thanks to this site being open to the public and some that have posted there methods not to standards that are suggested you have them believing your methods are acceptable which I don't agree but I can be just a sleazy as the Capt.....


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## Masterpiece (Mar 29, 2010)

I know this is probably an idiot question but what did you use to apply the 20min? I'd probably need an extra person just to be ready to clean the tools at a moment's notice if it were anything more than a pan!

BTW, I was doing some work in a small town that had no HD/Lowes or paint store lol, but had a lumber yard that sold ProForm Quick Set Lite 20. I've never used it before but it sure seemed to hand mix and apply so much smoother than Easy Sand. Only thing was, 20 minute seemed to last about 45 minutes before getting hard too. That's only good when you don't really need 20 minute lol...

Jeremy


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> and some that have posted there methods not to standards that are suggested you have them believing your methods are acceptable which I don't agree


I'm going to go ahead and take this personally.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Masterpiece said:


> I know this is probably an idiot question but what did you use to apply the 20min? I'd probably need an extra person just to be ready to clean the tools at a moment's notice if it were anything more than a pan!
> 
> BTW, I was doing some work in a small town that had no HD/Lowes or paint store lol, but had a lumber yard that sold ProForm Quick Set Lite 20. I've never used it before but it sure seemed to hand mix and apply so much smoother than Easy Sand. Only thing was, 20 minute seemed to last about 45 minutes before getting hard too. That's only good when you don't really need 20 minute lol...
> 
> Jeremy


You wouldn't want to run anything less than 45 through tools, preferably 90. 20 min, a bag and a half will give you a topped off bucket, easy enough for one guy to apply by hand. 5min is good for a panful or a quarter bucket if youre cruisin'. I've never ran setting mud through a bazooka, that's just asking for problems in my opinion



SlimPickins said:


> I'm going to go ahead and take this personally.


Many think they've seen and done it all. Others have seen and done more


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> I'm going to go ahead and take this personally.



Is this a personality site? It sure seems that your get pretty personal about a business sense things here. I suggest you have a cold one and relax :yes:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Is this a personality site? It sure seems that your get pretty personal about a business sense things here. I suggest you have a cold one and relax :yes:


Is there any site that's not a personality site? We can't help but carry it around with us.....

And really? Now you've both offended me AND hurt my feelings :lol:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I offer no guarantees no callbacks when using inferior products or methods not suggested by manufactures and thanks to this site being open to the public and some that have posted there methods not to standards that are suggested you have them believing your methods are acceptable which I don't agree but I can be just a sleazy as the Capt.....


 In 27+ years in the trade Iv'e never been run off the job to have another d/c finish up what i started..NEVER!:no::whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Masterpiece said:


> I know this is probably an idiot question but what did you use to apply the 20min? I'd probably need an extra person just to be ready to clean the tools at a moment's notice if it were anything more than a pan!
> 
> BTW, I was doing some work in a small town that had no HD/Lowes or paint store lol, but had a lumber yard that sold ProForm Quick Set Lite 20. I've never used it before but it sure seemed to hand mix and apply so much smoother than Easy Sand. Only thing was, 20 minute seemed to last about 45 minutes before getting hard too. That's only good when you don't really need 20 minute lol...
> 
> Jeremy


In the pic above I ran the first coat on the bead [metal] with 20 min USG. By hand hawk/knife..240 ft of bead..in hopes of slapping another coat on same day..didn't happen The 20 min just sat there wet 6 hours later..at 72 degrees.I did run a 2nd pass 5'' down so they could put up crown the next day. The next day it still wasn't completly dry..I would have been better off coating them with a/p.

To answer your question I mixed a full bag of 20 then run like a motherfo !!!! clean up.. Then repeat...

pro-form hot mud is nice to work with ,But takes awhile to set.
USG is the same way. Ruco hot muds set very quickly ,,but are very unruley..There all fast setting . NONE are fast drying.
In the proper conditions A/p will cure out faster IMO.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

moore said:


> In 27+ years in the trade Iv'e never been run off the job to have another d/c finish up what i started..NEVER!:no::whistling2:


Your doing good then.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> In the pic above I ran the first coat on the bead [metal] with 20 min USG. By hand hawk/knife..240 ft of bead..in hopes of slapping another coat on same day..didn't happen The 20 min just sat there wet 6 hours later..at 72 degrees.I did run a 2nd pass 5'' down so they could put up crown the next day. The next day it still wasn't completly dry..I would have been better off coating them with a/p.
> 
> To answer your question I mixed a full bag of 20 then run like a motherfo !!!! clean up.. Then repeat...
> 
> ...


I wonder if you had a bad bag of 20 Moore? I strictly use the proform hotmud and it is always very predictable if the conditions are stable. You are right about the Ruco hotmud being unruley. I also agree about the a/p fully drying faster than hotmud. BTW Moore, get some Ruco middle weight to play with!


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## Perkcon (Nov 25, 2012)

I would have to agree with Moore, we do alot of Walmart remodels and the gc thinks you can three coat a patch with 20 and paint it in a night. But is is all about quantity and not quality sometimes.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Perkcon said:


> I would have to agree with Moore, we do alot of Walmart remodels and the gc thinks you can three coat a patch with 20 and paint it in a night. But is is all about quantity and not quality sometimes.


Why are some allowing other to dictate how you do your job. 

Who is the professional when it comes to doing something someone else wants done?

Is it

(a) The person hiring the person to complete something there not capable of doing there self 

(b) The person that hires the person to complete something to resell to yet another person.

(c) The person that is doing something for the person that has requested you do something they can't do there self or going to resell your something 


If your answered (c) then you see the pun :thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I'll jumnp in as the ole goat that don't know much,,,,,LOL


Hot mud sets,,,,,,,,

It don't dry any faster than AP,,,,,,


If you don't believe that,,,, you ain't been at it very long !!!!!:thumbup:


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## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

tape and coat. and finissh coat in the same day. i,ed go 80% con fill. frist coat. sand than coat with regular mud.hell maybe 100% con fill.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

moore said:


> In the pic above I ran the first coat on the bead [metal] with 20 min USG. By hand hawk/knife..240 ft of bead..in hopes of slapping another coat on same day..didn't happen The 20 min just sat there wet 6 hours later..at 72 degrees.I did run a 2nd pass 5'' down so they could put up crown the next day. The next day it still wasn't completly dry..I would have been better off coating them with a/p.
> 
> To answer your question I mixed a full bag of 20 then run like a motherfo !!!! clean up.. Then repeat...
> 
> ...


here downunder when we want our hot mud to dry or set up faster we have accelerator or we use salty or dirty water(from a bucket where we wash mixer).you can give it a try se if it works for you


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Get a bag of plaster of paris and throw that in !! U better get a move on then!!
Put it in readymix and it turns 2 fast set! Not dry but will set in 10 mins no probs!!:thumbsup:


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## Masterpiece (Mar 29, 2010)

Yeah i was trippin when the pro form 20 was taking 2-3 times longer than i was used to...running the air didn't work, the heat pump only made everything humid and roasted me out lol....


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I'll jumnp in as the ole goat that don't know much,,,,,LOL
> 
> 
> Hot mud sets,,,,,,,,
> ...


 yep..Your right 100% BUT,,
IMO....A hot mud tape coat is Stronger over time than a A/P tape coat..no matter what goes over top of it.... JMHO:whistling2:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

moore said:


> yep..Your right 100% BUT,,
> IMO....A hot mud tape coat is Stronger over time than a A/P tape coat..no matter what goes over top of it.... JMHO:whistling2:


Your wrong moore its not stronger its harder and is "moore" susceptible to cracking it has no flex or give and when the wind blows like with your statement you will change your ways of thinking. Educate your self know your product then you might make more sense..:yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Your wrong moore its not stronger its harder and is "moore" susceptible to cracking it has no flex or give and when the wind blows like with your statement you will change your ways of thinking. Educate your self know your product then you might make more sense..:yes:


yeah.. I hear ya grasshopper!!! ! flex and give is what causes cracking ..so I guess were both wrong??

You live in a perfect world!!! I do not!!!!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Your wrong moore its not stronger its harder and is "moore" susceptible to cracking it has no flex or give and when the wind blows like with your statement you will change your ways of thinking. Educate your self know your product then you might make more sense..:yes:


Wait just a minute.....am I to believe that regular muds have flex and give? I don't buy it.....not for a second. Let a blob dry, then break it. Does it flex? Nope. Does it give? Yep....when it breaks. 

The stronger you can make the bond between mud and board, the less likelihood there is of failure. Want bomber hot mud? Add glue.....it will outperform everything else. Everything else is just cosmetic after that.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> yeah.. I hear ya grasshopper!!! ! flex and give is what causes cracking ..so I guess were both wrong??
> 
> You live in a perfect world!!! I do not!!!!


Mudstar don't live in a perfect world, he lives in Canada like me:blink:

But he does have a point though......

Some think by making things stronger or by stiffening things up more, it's better. But it's actually better to allow something to work in conjunction with the movement. There's a long list of things to aid in movement or shrinkage, like silent joist, expansion joints, deep track steel stud, keeping rock off the floor etc.....(we can let Justme, Slimpickins, and maybe Smisner explain all of them)

Guess you would half to be a scientist to study the molecular structure of hotmud vs All purpose mud. But I would speculate the hotmud is more brittle and has less glue in it .

I understand why and when guys use Hotmud, but to use hotmud to tape with b/c you THINK it is stronger, then I don't know:blink:,,, sounds like someone stuck in their ways moore, than proving a good taping mud is bad to use.

When dealing with large scale jobs, I find hotmuds hinder production, why use them if you don't half to. And before everyone goes Blah blah 2buck the hotmud hater. I understand their function for tiny jobs, or catching things up, but even then, I always mix a bit of AP mud with them,,,,, makes me feel safer:yes:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Mudstar don't live in a perfect world, he lives in Canada like me:blink:


You guys live pretty close to each other, eh?:blink:

I respect what your saying. I disagree with some of it, but I respect it nonetheless.

I'm not saying hot mud is the best thing to tape with, it just fits my process for size of jobs, etc. BUT, I think it's the best thing to first coat with as far as structural stability. Yes, it takes more time. In my world, that's okay. In a production scenario? F*** that.....box muds all the way. When it's big and they want it done on the cheap, I'm all about air dry mud. When it's small or super custom they get something different altogether.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> You guys live pretty close to each other, eh?:blink:
> 
> I respect what your saying. I disagree with some of it, but I respect it nonetheless.
> 
> I'm not saying hot mud is the best thing to tape with, it just fits my process for size of jobs, etc. BUT, I think it's the best thing to first coat with as far as structural stability. Yes, it takes more time. In my world, that's okay. In a production scenario? F*** that.....box muds all the way. When it's big and they want it done on the cheap, I'm all about air dry mud. When it's small or super custom they get something different altogether.


What do you mean you disagree with some of it









I know and understand the who what when where and why guys use hotmud. But the question would be, what would be better to resist cracking, hotmud or AP mud. Concrete is strong, but it still cracks.

So if Mudstar does live near me:whistling2: Our Urban legend is hotmuds are too brittle, like GLASS,,, well AP mud will accept more movement before it cracks.

we need a myth busters test:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Im about to do 4, Two bed, Two story units, With overrun peniltys, Two a ready to start now, Its go go go, Not the best fixing at all, Yes zooka with air dry is fastest, But then i have to wait, Some of the boards are not tight so its a bit gappy and i just want to hit it, I have a helper so im going to use my two banjos and stilts, He can fill them and pass up and be a fetcher and spot screws and mix and clean up etc while i go like all hell, Hotmud tape coats my choice for this, Why?? Becouse i know it will set up and dry faster than airdry then i can box it all purpose asap, If i have time then i would prefill and airdry zooka but i have very little time and dont need the delayed shrinkage with taping airdry as i have had in the passed, But then again, Your hotmuds are crap, Ours are not lucky for me. Oh and instead of the prefill its tape, 7,10,12 box, So i guess thats 4 coats as kiwiman pointed out, But zooka airdy tape corners, No point in hotmuds for the corners. An extra box pass is faster than the prefill. Everyone, every job and everythings different, Its whatever floats your boat at the time. I have to use paper tape on the firewall, Fuse isnt rated for that.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Im about to do 4, Two bed, Two story units, With overrun peniltys, Two a ready to start now, Its go go go, Not the best fixing at all, Yes zooka with air dry is fastest, But then i have to wait, Some of the boards are not tight so its a bit gappy and i just want to hit it, I have a helper so im going to use my two banjos and stilts, He can fill them and pass up and be a fetcher and spot screws and mix and clean up etc while i go like all hell, Hotmud tape coats my choice for this, Why?? Becouse i know it will set up and dry faster than airdry then i can box it all purpose asap, If i have time then i would prefill and airdry zooka but i have very little time and dont need the delayed shrinkage with taping airdry as i have had in the passed, But then again, Your hotmuds are crap, Ours are not lucky for me. Oh and instead of the prefill its tape, 7,10,12 box, So i guess thats 4 coats as kiwiman pointed out, But zooka airdy tape corners, No point in hotmuds for the corners. An extra box pass is faster than the prefill. Everyone, every job and everythings different, Its whatever floats your boat at the time. I have to use paper tape on the firewall, Fuse isnt rated for that.


WTF, you have a helper now:blink::blink::blink:

I hope he's not like 2bjr

Yesterday he broke the passenger door handle on my van. Day before that the CD jacks on my radio, lost the set screw on my 12" box when changing the blades.............:furious:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> WTF, you have a helper now:blink:
> 
> I hope he's not like 2bjr
> 
> Yesterday he broke the passenger door handle on my van. Day before that the CD jacks on my radio, lost the set screw on my 12" box when changing the blades.............:furious:


I have for a while, but only on bigger jobs, Just on call, An older guy, I work alone if i can i really dont like paying wages and taxes for someone else, I did for nearly 4 years once ten years ago, What a nightmere thats not for me at all, So he just helps out if im over whelmed and er, um, well, ah hem, Yes it is like your jnr , Often its :blink: But what can you do, He dosnt care when he gets paid, Has no kids or wife to support so i dont feel guilty not paying week to week, When i get paid i pay him, So that suits me, I cant have my cake and eat it too.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> Im about to do 4, Two bed, Two story units, With overrun peniltys, Two a ready to start now, Its go go go, Not the best fixing at all, Yes zooka with air dry is fastest, But then i have to wait, Some of the boards are not tight so its a bit gappy and i just want to hit it, I have a helper so im going to use my two banjos and stilts, He can fill them and pass up and be a fetcher and spot screws and mix and clean up etc while i go like all hell, Hotmud tape coats my choice for this, Why?? Becouse i know it will set up and dry faster than airdry then i can box it all purpose asap, If i have time then i would prefill and airdry zooka but i have very little time and dont need the delayed shrinkage with taping airdry as i have had in the passed, But then again, Your hotmuds are crap, Ours are not lucky for me. Oh and instead of the prefill its tape, 7,10,12 box, So i guess thats 4 coats as kiwiman pointed out, But zooka airdy tape corners, No point in hotmuds for the corners. An extra box pass is faster than the prefill. Everyone, every job and everythings different, Its whatever floats your boat at the time. I have to use paper tape on the firewall, Fuse isnt rated for that.


if you have a gap between boards why don't use FF with zooka and go with base on top? topic is WET ON WET right? :whistling2:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> if you have a gap between boards why don't use FF with zooka and go with base on top? topic is WET ON WET right? :whistling2:


Im not brave enough for that, Im a registered Gib interior plasterer by invite only from them, You cant join, They invite you if they know you and have good references, They recommend me and i use there systems so if i did that, And it f*ed up, How silly would i look......Very. All the info from the manufacters say dont do that, So im not, If it works for you then great, Well done, Setting mud on top of wet airdry, Interesting idea though, But, How do i know your not some dude trying to mess me up, This is the internet after all :whistling2:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> Im not brave enough for that, Im a registered Gib interior plasterer by invite only from them, You cant join, They invite you if they know you and have good references, They recommend me and i use there systems so if i did that, And it f*ed up, How silly would i look......Very. All the info from the manufacters say dont do that, So im not, If it works for you then great, Well done, Setting mud on top of wet airdry, Interesting idea though, But, How do i know your not some dude trying to mess me up, This is the internet after all :whistling2:


not trying to mess you up.I just don't trust the manufacturers 100%.they make the rules so if smth goes wrong they have someone else to blame.just an example: give me your opinion about wet'n'stick tape or ezy tape made by the same manufacturer which .......brakes all their rules


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Mudstar don't live in a perfect world, he lives in Canada like me:blink:
> 
> But he does have a point though......
> 
> ...


 I've never seen a bucket of taping mud..
Do you prefill with 20 min? If you do than your basicly taping with hot mud..right?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> we need a myth busters test:yes:


:yes:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> :yes:


Slim!! Call me or text me.
705-919-5921. 
Or delete some messages from your inbox, i've tried pm'ing you a few times but it's always full.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Slim!! Call me or text me.
> 705-919-5921.
> Or delete some messages from your inbox, i've tried pm'ing you a few times but it's always full.


I deleted all of them the other day. I've only got 3 in there right now


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> I've never seen a bucket of taping mud..
> Do you prefill with 20 min? If you do than your basicly taping with hot mud..right?


Most times, on the first day of a house, we use straight stiff mud out of the box to pre-fill and do the screws etc (build scaffold, maybe put bead on). It's the small jobs we get confused on, thats when we will use a half and half mix,,, half sheetrock 90, half AP mud.

Plus a old time taper taught me, mud is better than hotmud to pre-fill with, since it has more glue in it. Plus told me to take a blob of dried hard stiff mud, and try to break it a part by hand, it's fairly tough to do. Maybe they both have the same tensile strength , who knows, I avoid Hotmud if I can. I hate a product that controls me. hotmuds you half to fetch too much water, clean tools, race if it sets off, GUESS how much to mix. Throw it out if you mix too much, I could go on..... AP mud, I can mix it, and walk away from it as long as I want:yes:

Personally, I think if someone is more concerned about the sticking/bonding power of Mud, add glue to it. Since mud is a foam of glue any how



PrecisionTaping said:


> Slim!! Call me or text me.
> 705-919-5921.
> Or delete some messages from your inbox, i've tried pm'ing you a few times but it's always full.


Quick, everyone fill up Slims PM box


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Most times, on the first day of a house, we use straight stiff mud out of the box to pre-fill and do the screws etc (build scaffold, maybe put bead on). It's the small jobs we get confused on, thats when we will use a half and half mix,,, half sheetrock 90, half AP mud.
> 
> Plus a old time taper taught me, mud is better than hotmud to pre-fill with, since it has more glue in it. Plus told me to take a blob of dried hard stiff mud, and try to break it a part by hand, it's fairly tough to do. Maybe they both have the same tensile strength , who knows, I avoid Hotmud if I can. I hate a product that controls me. hotmuds you half to fetch too much water, clean tools, race if it sets off, GUESS how much to mix. Throw it out if you mix too much, I could go on..... AP mud, I can mix it, and walk away from it as long as I want:yes:
> 
> ...


I'm the same way 50/50 HM to AP for prefill, i prefill with mud only if im not taping that day. MOst tapers around here use straight 90 and prefill everything including beads. I only prefill butts and major cracks anything over 1/8, i find anything else a waste of time and material IMO


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

moore said:


> yeah.. I hear ya grasshopper!!! ! flex and give is what causes cracking ..so I guess were both wrong??
> 
> You live in a perfect world!!! I do not!!!!



I guess your not reading enough to understand expansion and contraction are normal and that is the real world. Its flexibility that's not perfect :thumbsup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> Wait just a minute.....am I to believe that regular muds have flex and give? I don't buy it.....not for a second. Let a blob dry, then break it. Does it flex? Nope. Does it give? Yep....when it breaks.
> 
> The stronger you can make the bond between mud and board, the less likelihood there is of failure. Want bomber hot mud? Add glue.....it will outperform everything else. Everything else is just cosmetic after that.


I wonder what most compounds have in common that makes them flexible. Do you know?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I wonder what most compounds have in common that makes them flexible. Do you know?


Vinyl.

That's why I add vinyl to my hot mud. :thumbsup:


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## rebel20 (Jun 4, 2009)

moore said:


> In the pic above I ran the first coat on the bead [metal] with 20 min USG. By hand hawk/knife..240 ft of bead..in hopes of slapping another coat on same day..didn't happen The 20 min just sat there wet 6 hours later..at 72 degrees.I did run a 2nd pass 5'' down so they could put up crown the next day. The next day it still wasn't completly dry..I would have been better off coating them with a/p.
> 
> To answer your question I mixed a full bag of 20 then run like a motherfo !!!! clean up.. Then repeat...
> 
> ...


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

rebel20 said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > In the pic above I ran the first coat on the bead [metal] with 20 min USG. By hand hawk/knife..240 ft of bead..in hopes of slapping another coat on same day..didn't happen The 20 min just sat there wet 6 hours later..at 72 degrees.I did run a 2nd pass 5'' down so they could put up crown the next day. The next day it still wasn't completly dry..I would have been better off coating them with a/p.
> ...


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

rebel20 said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > In the pic above I ran the first coat on the bead [metal] with 20 min USG. By hand hawk/knife..240 ft of bead..in hopes of slapping another coat on same day..didn't happen The 20 min just sat there wet 6 hours later..at 72 degrees.I did run a 2nd pass 5'' down so they could put up crown the next day. The next day it still wasn't completly dry..I would have been better off coating them with a/p.
> ...


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