# Food Coloring in mud



## SlimPickins

A friend of mine told me a while back that he uses a couple of drops of food coloring in his touch-up mud when doing smooth, so he knows where to go to do a final light sand.

So, I tried it. A couple of times. I used green, thinking it would be least likely to bleed (compared to red, etc....thinking along the lines of red chalk in the box being known to bleed).

However, on this last job, it bled. Little kitchen remodel. Green haze in areas:furious:. I told the guy to use oil-based primer on this job, because of the mud over glossy paint (primed before mud also). I don't think he used what I told him to. 

However, it doesn't matter what I told him....I still learned the hard way. I offered to make it right, but haven't heard back. He could be a great referral source (runs a building materials re-use business and always has people asking for contractors). 

Now I'm going to have to try and find some of that Never-Miss....you know, the stuff that when I asked the guys at the supply if they could get it they said :blink: "huh?"


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## PrecisionTaping

ooo....food colouring eh?...
That totally sucks.
Do like me and Mudshark do, sprinkle a little chalk from your line in your mud.
Works great. I use a little of blue chalk if I have touch-ups.
Hahaha! Who am I kidding!? I don't have touch-ups!


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## 2buckcanuck

Go with blue chalk, and don't make it really dark blue, just a tea spoon full to a hefty scoop of mud on a 6" knife, mixed in a mud pan. ( how do you like those exact measures:whistling2

White primer has a tinge of blue to it. Also think about those DIY paints, where they tint the paint blue so the diy can see where he rolls, yet it dries white.

Plus every painter I have dealt with, has said the same, don't use red, it bleeds through. Blue, a very light blue, will work.

Also, I do it all the time. Only time I got a complaint, was a long time ago, when I made it really dark blue:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Hahaha! Who am I kidding!? I don't have touch-ups!


It's getting deep in here:yes::whistling2::whistling2:


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> It's getting deep in here:yes::whistling2::whistling2:


I welcome you to any one of my job sites!


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## JustMe

SlimPickins said:


> A friend of mine told me a while back that he uses a couple of drops of food coloring in his touch-up mud when doing smooth, so he knows where to go to do a final light sand.
> 
> So, I tried it. A couple of times. I used green, thinking it would be least likely to bleed (compared to red, etc....thinking along the lines of red chalk in the box being known to bleed).
> 
> However, on this last job, it bled. Little kitchen remodel. Green haze in areas:furious:. I told the guy to use oil-based primer on this job, because of the mud over glossy paint (primed before mud also). I don't think he used what I told him to.
> 
> However, it doesn't matter what I told him....I still learned the hard way. I offered to make it right, but haven't heard back. He could be a great referral source (runs a building materials re-use business and always has people asking for contractors).
> 
> Now I'm going to have to try and find some of that Never-Miss....you know, the stuff that when I asked the guys at the supply if they could get it they said :blink: "huh?"


A painter told me awhile ago about how he got on the wrong side of a taper, and the taper used food colouring for his checkout. Said it took a few primer coats before it would quit bleeding through.

We've got a manufacturer/supplier up here in Canada by the name of Dynamic Paint Products. They make &/or supply all kinds of paint items, including some paint tints that come in a plastic bottle - yellow, orange, maybe others - those are the 2 I've seen in drywall supply places. Their name 'Dynamic' is on the bottles.

They work good for tinting your mud up. We use the yellow all the time. Never tried the orange.
Maybe a paint store could have a tint that would work for you(?)

Never-Miss works good, too. Their yellow and blue I've used. Need very little of the blue to colour things up, so their small bottle could last some time. The yellow - more needed.


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> I welcome you to any one of my job sites!


What type of offer is that, who would want to go to Subury:whistling2:


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## DLSdrywall

The last commercial job i was at the check out guy used blue chalk and it bled through and made the job look bad. I think the trick with chaulk is to make it as light as possible. Just enough to see your patches.


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## SlimPickins

I've done the chalk thing, but when using the uber-lightweight finish mud it seems to make the mud harder, then when you sand your touch-up the background mud goes away but the touch-up stays

Just Me- that's a good idea, to get some tint from the paint store.....cuz you know, they make paint and stuff, and would be able to hook me up with stuff that won't bleed.

PT- That's smart of you to sand all your jobs at night with no light so you don't have any touch-ups. I should try that sometime!


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## Kiwiman

If you use something like sheetrock total then you could use sheetrock midweight for patching, midweights a different colour and it's softer than what you are patching over so it doesn't onion skin the same and blends in better.
Hint of the day - I use midweight to patch over midweight which will onion skin like the rest of them, so I dampen the area getting patched to re-activate the topcoat with a water mister bottle, then it blends in together nicely when sanded.
2nd hint of the day - When patching...... *circle it with a pencil* so you can find it the next day :yes:


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## SlimPickins

Kiwiman said:


> If you use something like sheetrock total then you could use sheetrock midweight for patching, midweights a different colour and it's softer than what you are patching over so it doesn't onion skin the same and blends in better.
> Hint of the day - I use midweight to patch over midweight which will onion skin like the rest of them, so I dampen the area getting patched to re-activate the topcoat with a water mister bottle, then it blends in together nicely when sanded.
> 2nd hint of the day - When patching...... *circle it with a pencil* so you can find it the next day


Most of my jobs are so small that it really only makes sense to use one type of air-dry compound, having taped/topped with set muds. I've tried using AP, but you get the same skinning effect, unless you go over it with finish mud instead....but then I'm looking at extra material that I don't want cluttering up my life

I've been experimenting with misting the mud lately myself, but the lightweight wants to pull away when you get it wet, making even more of a mess than when you started.

Here's a hint for YOU: _*Throw away your pencil*_:jester:, it will make scratches in your work....find a soft hunk of black rubber (I got all mine on a commercial job from the storefront aluminum window guys). It's got a lot more surface area and isn't as hard as a pencil so you can use it on the lightweight muds with no ill effect:thumbsup:


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## cazna

Get one of those small plastic bottles, Like your food dye bottle but go find a new one with a dropper top and a clip lid, About 100ml in size at take it to a paint shop and ask them to fill it with painter tinter, Colour of your choice, I use ochre (Dark mustard yellow) Drop some drops into the top of your mud bucket and take a knife and just mix it into the top, Now to have coloured mud that wont bleed and prob wont cost anything or maybe a couple of Bucks, Its last ages for touch ups, Or maybe you can buy bottles of tinter for doing skim, We use to be able to here but not any more.


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## moore

I use my memory .If you guys have that many touch ups That you need to colour your mud to find them .........well....that's just sad.:jester:


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## JustMe

moore said:


> I use my memory .If you guys have that many touch ups That you need to colour your mud to find them .........well....that's just sad.:jester:


If I was doing those little side jobs you keep showing pics of, I wouldn't need it, either.


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## moore

JustMe said:


> If I was doing those little side jobs you keep showing pics of, I wouldn't need it, either.


 Fair enough....


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## SlimPickins

JustMe said:


> If I was doing those little side jobs you keep showing pics of, I wouldn't need it, either.


You guys are making me feel like I have a small p3n1s 

The point isn't that it's totally necessary to do it, I was just trying to be nice and warn you.

Now I take it back. :tt2:

However, when you're coating over a lot of paint and dealing with pocks, it's nice to have the color build up to show you where they're at.


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## JustMe

moore said:


> Fair enough....





SlimPickins said:


> You guys are making me feel like I have a small p3n1s


You 2 are way too trusting. :jester: 

But your trust is justified. Sometimes. I do get stuck with small jobs. Too many at times for my liking.

But I travel pretty much fully equipped, so I'm handy, while others don't even have a drivers license. 

I am running tapes, boxes tomorrow in a section of a large gov't building. But that's for doing some assessments with someone from a health care agency on the demands automatic tools put on the worker. I'm interested in seeing what might come from it, if really anything, results wise.



SlimPickins said:


> However, when you're coating over a lot of paint and dealing with pocks, it's nice to have the color build up to show you where they're at.


Do you use the 'put on, leave for a minute or 2, then wipe off and reapply' method for the 2nd coat, to reduce pocks?


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## moore

Do you use the 'put on, leave for a minute or 2, then wipe off and reapply' method for the 2nd coat, to reduce pocks? 
__________________
cut her thin....On the angles thinner the better to reduce the fish eyes ...different areas ..different muds..:yes:


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## silverstilts

PrecisionTaping said:


> I welcome you to any one of my job sites!


 Same here I guess if you pay close attention to what you leave there are no touch ups unless the finish carpenters or any other subs get a little careless.. but I do know others that use the blue chalk..


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## JustMe

moore said:


> cut her thin....On the angles thinner the better to reduce the fish eyes ...different areas ..different muds..:yes:


Maybe different muds at times. But doesn't mean some of them won't react the same to the method I described.

Thin is okay. But the method I mentioned has worked better for me when dealing with possible pocks, than going thin.

It's worth trying. Little to lose, maybe much to gain.


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## PrecisionTaping

silverstilts said:


> Same here I guess if you pay close attention to what you leave there are no touch ups unless the finish carpenters or any other subs get a little careless.. but I do know others that use the blue chalk..


Exactly! I use very little blue chalk line. Like has been mentioned, just enough to tint my mud.
I like Cazna's idea though! Pretty smart.

The only times I really do touch-ups is if I'm painting.
And as luck would have it, I've been painting on and off for the last 3 weeks. When I finish a tape job, it looks damn near perfect. 
But after the flooring guys, (hardwood, tile, carpet etc etc...) the finishing carpenters, (trim, doors, railings etc etc) the electricians, the plumbers and everybody finishes up!
There's always nicks and dings! Always! It's unavoidable! 
But I only see those if I'm painting.
If I'm not painting, that's the painters touch-ups, not mine.
I finished my job as soon as I packed up and left and the primer went on the walls. After that, it's his job.
In my opinion, painters do way more touch-ups than us.
And that's how it should be. I do my job well. That's all there is to it.
Any scratches that incur after I leave are the painters to deal with.
Unless it's something major that I missed then it's my fault.


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## carpentaper

i agree 100% PT. i never do touch ups. to be honest, i usually leave about a half dozen tiny touchups for the painters on everyjob. i'm not going to waste my time filling a section of pocks or risking it layering and have to come back again. i'm lucky because i know most of the painters that follow me and they know it is easier to fix after prime than before and my half a dozen touchups are a drop in the bucket after the other trades are done. i never leave anything that could not be filled with a 1" knife. most of the time i don't think anyone notices them.:whistling2:


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## carpentaper

also, i load super heavy, sand the bejeezuz out of it and then skim super tight. reno work. i haven't had a job i could use boxes on in a long while.


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## JustMe

JustMe said:


> Maybe different muds at times. But doesn't mean some of them won't react the same to the method I described.
> 
> Thin is okay. But the method I mentioned has worked better for me when dealing with possible pocks, than going thin.
> 
> It's worth trying. Little to lose, maybe much to gain.


A P.S. on this, especially for those newer to it: If you tape and let that dry - at least dry along the thinner edges, before 1st coat - chances are you could have bubbling on especially the dry spots. Try doing the 'put on, take off, then put on again' in those spots, even with the 1st coat, to keep pocking down in those areas.

I scrape any 1st coat high spots, trying not to sand it too much, before 2nd coat. The dust from sanding can fill in potential pock holes that remain, which won't fill on 2nd coat too well, and the paint roller will pull out the dust when priming. Then you end up with more pocks for touch up.
That's where sanding 1st coat with a vac attachment can be nice - sucks any dust out.


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## Bazooka-Joe

cazna said:


> Get one of those small plastic bottles, Like your food dye bottle but go find a new one with a dropper top and a clip lid, About 100ml in size at take it to a paint shop and ask them to fill it with painter tinter, Colour of your choice, I use ochre (Dark mustard yellow) Drop some drops into the top of your mud bucket and take a knife and just mix it into the top, Now to have coloured mud that wont bleed and prob wont cost anything or maybe a couple of Bucks, Its last ages for touch ups, Or maybe you can buy bottles of tinter for doing skim, We use to be able to here but not any more.


Yeah Cazarama it works great


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Exactly! I use very little blue chalk line. Like has been mentioned, just enough to tint my mud.
> I like Cazna's idea though! Pretty smart.
> 
> The only times I really do touch-ups is if I'm painting.
> And as luck would have it, I've been painting on and off for the last 3 weeks. When I finish a tape job, it looks damn near perfect.
> But after the flooring guys, (hardwood, tile, carpet etc etc...) the finishing carpenters, (trim, doors, railings etc etc) the electricians, the plumbers and everybody finishes up!
> There's always nicks and dings! Always! It's unavoidable!
> But I only see those if I'm painting.
> If I'm not painting, that's the painters touch-ups, not mine.
> I finished my job as soon as I packed up and left and the primer went on the walls. After that, it's his job.
> In my opinion, painters do way more touch-ups than us.
> And that's how it should be. I do my job well. That's all there is to it.
> Any scratches that incur after I leave are the painters to deal with.
> Unless it's something major that I missed then it's my fault.


your painters do touch ups









talk about being spoiled :whistling2:


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## Bazooka-Joe

2buckcanuck said:


> your painters do touch ups
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> talk about being spoiled :whistling2:


2buck painters always do touch ups


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## SlimPickins

JustMe said:


> Do you use the 'put on, leave for a minute or 2, then wipe off and reapply' method for the 2nd coat, to reduce pocks?


Ideally, I get to prime the surface first....then, no-to-very-little pocking.

Lately, it's been more like apply one direction, smear opposite, wipe down both ways. Then another trip around the room once they've shrunk a bit and they come out smooth as glass. I try to sweep them out if possible, but you know there are little particles hanging out in there laughing at you for even trying. 

I've tried all kinds of ways, but this forcing-mud-everywhere and wiping-tight-right-away, then reapplying a bit later seems to work best for me and my materials. I can't leave lightweight mud sitting on the surface for more than a few seconds or it leaves micro-high edges that show in hard light.

Usually I can kill them with a tight skim over the hot mud top coat (with hot mud) but I don't always have the time to do it. Sometimes it gets water and burnish, which works pretty well too.


I think it's funny that "some people" are implying that their work is perfect all the time. These people obviously aren't coating reno-work over paint, bad framing, various substrates, using set muds air dry muds, primer, adhesives, shims etc to get the turds polished.

When I coat new drywall, I'm more often than not done after two coats/sand on anything that's not smooth (including high shoulders- which are everywhere). Wanna know why? Because I am the best drywaller in the world!:huh:


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## 2buckcanuck

Bazooka-Joe said:


> 2buck painters always do touch ups


That's debatable:yes:


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> your painters do touch ups
> 
> talk about being spoiled :whistling2:


Maybe they do maybe they don't.
I could care less. If I'm painting, I make sure my job is 100%
Same goes with my taping. Or anything I do for that matter.
If I finished my taping job and the painter never touched up any of the nicks and dings, that's on him. Not me.



SlimPickins said:


> I think it's funny that "some people" are implying that their work is perfect all the time. These people obviously aren't coating reno-work over paint, bad framing, various substrates, using set muds air dry muds, primer, adhesives, shims etc to get the turds polished.
> 
> When I coat new drywall, I'm more often than not done after two coats/sand on anything that's not smooth (including high shoulders- which are everywhere). Wanna know why? Because I am the best drywaller in the world!:huh:


I somehow feel like that was directed at me :jester:
And my work is perfect....ALL THE TIME!
If it's not, I'm not done yet.
Why should any of what you mentioned above affect my finish?
When I'm done. It is perfect, that's all there is too it.
I wasn't talking about all the things we have to do to get their and achieve that perfect finish. 
Of course I do reno's! and bad framing!? Is that a joke!? I've never seen good framing. 
But anything I do, I do right.
I don't care what it is. I'm not a framer by trade, but if I framed a house, it would be perfect!
Because I care about everything I do.
With that being said, there are a crap ton of things I don't do!

For example, mechanics! I hate mechanics!!!
I won't even change my own oil! Screw that! Only thing I do is put gas in my tank, and occasionally put air in my tires. Not worth my time and frustration to try and do anything else!
I don't mind being covered head to toe in drywall mud! But If I get oil all over me....oh I'm pissed!

That's all I'm saying. I wasn't implying that anyone who has touch-ups to do is inferior. 
I don't what everyone's circumstances are, maybe you weren't given the time you needed, hell, we're never given the time we need. Maybe the job was too rushed and you didn't have time to do a final once over before the painter started. I don't know, and I don't care.
I don't judge! I don't care how many touch-ups you do. As long as you do them. We're all professionals here. I don't know what your job circumstances are and you know what?! Sh!t happens. Touch it up.


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## JustMe

SlimPickins said:


> Lately, it's been more like apply one direction, smear opposite, wipe down both ways. Then another trip around the room once they've shrunk a bit and they come out smooth as glass.


Sounds a bit like what I call 'coating wet on wet', except for the smearing and wiping both ways.

2nd/finish coat goes on a little later, while 1st coat is still pretty wet. I do that on rush jobs, using AP, where they're going to run fans on it so it'll dry enough next day for prime/paint.

Works well, including for keeping down pocks, if you don't pull the 1st coat apart while 2nd coating. So you can't play with it much. 

Good place for FibaFuse, as it dries behind it well at the same time.



SlimPickins said:


> I think it's funny that "some people" are implying that their work is perfect all the time. These people obviously aren't coating reno-work over paint, bad framing, various substrates, using set muds air dry muds, primer, adhesives, shims etc to get the turds polished.


I don't imply perfection on renos. People tell me it. :whistling2: 
Did a dentist office reno a bit ago for a company we do their drywall work for. Guy who was running job said my work is perfect, all the time. I told him that he didn't see the patch I missed sanding, then, and thought about later, after the painters had painted things out - the patch right across from where you walk in the front door. 

Renos are usually harder, sometimes much harder, than new, I find. In comparison, new can be a bit of a cake walk at times.
Hard to make any real time, real progress on them. I still get surprised at how long some of them can really take.

Only forgiving thing at times is that they might accept a little less than perfect with a reno.


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## JustMe

JustMe said:


> I don't imply perfection on renos. People tell me it. :whistling2:
> Did a dentist office reno a bit ago for a company we do their drywall work for. Guy who was running job said my work is perfect, all the time.


This got me thinking......if there's possibly something better than 'perfect'. 'Perfect Plus'? Because there's a couple finishers in my company who I'd say are better than me.


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## SlimPickins

PrecisionTaping said:


> Maybe they do maybe they don't.
> I could care less. If I'm painting, I make sure my job is 100%
> Same goes with my taping. Or anything I do for that matter.
> If I finished my taping job and the painter never touched up any of the nicks and dings, that's on him. Not me.
> 
> 
> 
> I somehow feel like that was directed at me :jester:
> And my work is perfect....ALL THE TIME!
> If it's not, I'm not done yet.
> Why should any of what you mentioned above affect my finish?
> When I'm done. It is perfect, that's all there is too it.
> I wasn't talking about all the things we have to do to get their and achieve that perfect finish.
> Of course I do reno's! and bad framing!? Is that a joke!? I've never seen good framing.
> But anything I do, I do right.
> I don't care what it is. I'm not a framer by trade, but if I framed a house, it would be perfect!
> Because I care about everything I do.
> With that being said, there are a crap ton of things I don't do!
> 
> For example, mechanics! I hate mechanics!!!
> I won't even change my own oil! Screw that! Only thing I do is put gas in my tank, and occasionally put air in my tires. Not worth my time and frustration to try and do anything else!
> I don't mind being covered head to toe in drywall mud! But If I get oil all over me....oh I'm pissed!
> 
> That's all I'm saying. I wasn't implying that anyone who has touch-ups to do is inferior.
> I don't what everyone's circumstances are, maybe you weren't given the time you needed, hell, we're never given the time we need. Maybe the job was too rushed and you didn't have time to do a final once over before the painter started. I don't know, and I don't care.
> I don't judge! I don't care how many touch-ups you do. As long as you do them. We're all professionals here. I don't know what your job circumstances are and you know what?! Sh!t happens. Touch it up.


Perhaps what we're calling touch-ups has a different definition for each of us. Touch-up for me is what happens after I sand. I walk around and fix little things. I do a lot of solid coat work, so there are lap-marks, mild hollows, pock-marks, sanding scratches (even 220 will tear up light topping). When I'm done, it's perfect, you're right. I don't get called back to fix things I've missed, and I don't get told that something looks really bad....because I don't leave until I'm satisfied that only *I* could find something wrong with the job.

I think my understanding of what was being said was flawed. 

I don't think it's cocky to say I run good coats, and I felt it was being insinuated that somehow my work was sub-par if it took a little mud after sand. I don't go back after paint, if that's what you're talking about. Never been asked to, unless it's something the painter can't handle (hole in the wall, etc). I "touch-up" after I sand, and if absolutely needed, will lightly sand the touch-ups...hence coloring them, so as not to take any chances on missing them while moving quickly.


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Maybe they do maybe they don't.
> I could care less. If I'm painting, I make sure my job is 100%
> Same goes with my taping. Or anything I do for that matter.
> If I finished my taping job and the painter never touched up any of the nicks and dings, that's on him. Not me.
> 
> 
> 
> I somehow feel like that was directed at me :jester:
> And my work is perfect....ALL THE TIME!
> If it's not, I'm not done yet.
> Why should any of what you mentioned above affect my finish?
> When I'm done. It is perfect, that's all there is too it.
> I wasn't talking about all the things we have to do to get their and achieve that perfect finish.
> Of course I do reno's! and bad framing!? Is that a joke!? I've never seen good framing.
> But anything I do, I do right.
> I don't care what it is. I'm not a framer by trade, but if I framed a house, it would be perfect!
> Because I care about everything I do.
> With that being said, there are a crap ton of things I don't do!
> 
> For example, mechanics! I hate mechanics!!!
> I won't even change my own oil! Screw that! Only thing I do is put gas in my tank, and occasionally put air in my tires. Not worth my time and frustration to try and do anything else!
> I don't mind being covered head to toe in drywall mud! But If I get oil all over me....oh I'm pissed!
> 
> That's all I'm saying. I wasn't implying that anyone who has touch-ups to do is inferior.
> I don't what everyone's circumstances are, maybe you weren't given the time you needed, hell, we're never given the time we need. Maybe the job was too rushed and you didn't have time to do a final once over before the painter started. I don't know, and I don't care.
> I don't judge! I don't care how many touch-ups you do. As long as you do them. We're all professionals here. I don't know what your job circumstances are and you know what?! Sh!t happens. Touch it up.


Holy Moose boy, did you get a girl friend or something, you sound really b1tchy:whistling2:

No such thing as a perfect tape job anyhow........

As one old time taper asked me, when I first started taping" do you try to do a perfect job all the time ?"
I proudly stated yes:yes:, to which he replied,"Your in the wrong job then,get yourself a easel and be a artist, This is a business to make money" ......So I kept my mouth shut, and listened to what he had to say, which in a nut shell, was do acceptable work....

Whats Better, doing a perfect job in 2 weeks, then don't get paid for it. or do 2 acceptable jobs in 2 weeks, and not get paid for one


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## cazna

Im so good, Perfect never is, :whistling2:

Honestly though, If someone uses that word perfect, They have givin up and wont learn anything more, Its never perfect. I will never be perfect, Maybe just Figjam, [email protected] Im Good Just Ask Me. :no:


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## PrecisionTaping

SlimPickins said:


> Perhaps what we're calling touch-ups has a different definition for each of us. Touch-up for me is what happens after I sand. I walk around and fix little things. I do a lot of solid coat work, so there are lap-marks, mild hollows, pock-marks, sanding scratches (even 220 will tear up light topping). When I'm done, it's perfect, you're right. I don't get called back to fix things I've missed, and I don't get told that something looks really bad....because I don't leave until I'm satisfied that only *I* could find something wrong with the job.
> 
> I think my understanding of what was being said was flawed.
> 
> I don't think it's cocky to say I run good coats, and I felt it was being insinuated that somehow my work was sub-par if it took a little mud after sand. I don't go back after paint, if that's what you're talking about. Never been asked to, unless it's something the painter can't handle (hole in the wall, etc). I "touch-up" after I sand, and if absolutely needed, will lightly sand the touch-ups...hence coloring them, so as not to take any chances on missing them while moving quickly.


That's exactly what I meant Slim.
We understand each other.
I wasn't trying to put you down any. Just more or less explaining how I do things. I always do a final walk around after were done sanding.
I'll have a few touch ups then sure. We always miss something. 



2buckcanuck said:


> Holy Moose boy, did you get a girl friend or something, you sound really b1tchy:whistling2:
> 
> No such thing as a perfect tape job anyhow........
> 
> As one old time taper asked me, when I first started taping" do you try to do a perfect job all the time ?"
> I proudly stated yes:yes:, to which he replied,"Your in the wrong job then,get yourself a easel and be a artist, This is a business to make money" ......So I kept my mouth shut, and listened to what he had to say, which in a nut shell, was do acceptable work....
> 
> Whats Better, doing a perfect job in 2 weeks, then don't get paid for it. or do 2 acceptable jobs in 2 weeks, and not get paid for one


I'm pretty sure that's a completely flawed mentality.
Acceptable? Seriously 2buck? :no:
Since when does 2buckcanuck put forth acceptable work?

I guess it all really depends on what you're charging and how much money your making.
I have wicked awesome client relations! I'm not gonna lie, my clients love me. But that's because I'll go the extra mile.
But I charge up front for it and I break it down and explain to them why I'm more expensive then the other guy.
I once quoted a job at 2500$ and the woman said "oh!...wow...really? The other guy quoted us at $1500"
I said "Well give him a call back then"
But after 5 minutes of talking with her she ended up using me anyways.
I've said it time and time again, I'm nowhere near the cheapest guy in town. 4-5 years ago, allot of people (my competition) thought my prices we're ridiculously high. Now they're all starting to catch on though. All of a sudden everyone's prices are the same as mine.
I charge for what I do, and I do it well. 

I don't sell goods or services. I sell myself. And I don't come cheap.


----------



## chris

" Touch up" to us is when all tool work and coats are complete . We will touch up usually before final sand. Once sanded we do a final check,,,, thats when we shoot for perfect. I pride myself on not going back for things that got missed ( go backs ) . Go backs used to kill me years ago,, now I cant even remember the last go back:thumbsup:. Ive stated that Ive used food color before but that was to keep track of different tapers progress. We have NEVER had a bleedthru with it, but have only done a couple times. Ive seen chalklines bleed thru on several occasions, pencil and pen also. The back of my 6" knife will mark the wall if a reminder is needed, or a piece of blue tape works even better


----------



## SlimPickins

cazna said:


> Im so good, Perfect never is,
> 
> [email protected] Im Good Just Ask Me. :no:


Now you're talking my language:thumbsup::no:

I've never done a "perfect" job.




chris said:


> " Touch up" to us is when all tool work and coats are complete . We will touch up usually before final sand. Once sanded we do a final check,,,, thats when we shoot for perfect. I pride myself on not going back for things that got missed ( go backs ) . Go backs used to kill me years ago,, now I cant even remember the last go back:thumbsup:. Ive stated that Ive used food color before but that was to keep track of different tapers progress. We have NEVER had a bleedthru with it, but have only done a couple times. Ive seen chalklines bleed thru on several occasions, pencil and pen also. The back of my 6" knife will mark the wall if a reminder is needed, or a piece of blue tape works even better


I like to do the touching up before sand as well, when I can. Then the final check-out is a breeze.:thumbsup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

kinda late to this post,,,but,,,ya know that won't stop me from giving an opinion!!!

IMHO,,,, usually the painters will prime BEFORE we come in to point up. 

HENCE ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the problem

Don't matter ifin you use regular mud or tinted mud,,,,,,,,,,,

IF THE PAINTERS DON"T PRIME THE TOUCH UP,,,,,,,,,,, regular mud will flash same as tinted mud!!!

NUFF SAID


----------



## gam026

2buckcanuck said:


> Holy Moose boy, did you get a girl friend or something, you sound really b1tchy:whistling2:
> 
> No such thing as a perfect tape job anyhow........
> 
> As one old time taper asked me, when I first started taping" do you try to do a perfect job all the time ?"
> I proudly stated yes:yes:, to which he replied,"Your in the wrong job then,get yourself a easel and be a artist, This is a business to make money" ......So I kept my mouth shut, and listened to what he had to say, which in a nut shell, was do acceptable work....
> 
> Whats Better, doing a perfect job in 2 weeks, then don't get paid for it. or do 2 acceptable jobs in 2 weeks, and not get paid for one


Could not agree with you more good sir. :notworthy:

Also i figure i wont do all the touch ups when i sand cause i can get the rest when i go back to do the patches when;
The drywaller misses a plug
The electrician forgets a light
Theres a leak cause the plumer forgot to tighten his coupling
The homowner doesent like where one of the potlights is
............well you get it.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

gam026 said:


> Could not agree with you more good sir. :notworthy:
> 
> Also i figure i wont do all the touch ups when i sand cause i can get the rest when i go back to do the patches when;
> The drywaller misses a plug
> The electrician forgets a light
> Theres a leak cause the plumer forgot to tighten his coupling
> The homowner doesent like where one of the potlights is
> ............well you get it.


Hahaha! That does suck when any of that happens.
But the majority of those things wouldn't be your fault, (unless your guys boarded) which means you can charge extra :thumbsup:


----------



## gam026

PrecisionTaping said:


> Hahaha! That does suck when any of that happens.
> But the majority of those things wouldn't be your fault, (unless your guys boarded) which means you can charge extra :thumbsup:


Iv got about 4500 in extras i havent billed to one of my contractors for just that stuff. And thats about 2 months worth. I have one guy whos only job is to fix [email protected]*k ups and year ends. :yes:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

gam026 said:


> Iv got about 4500 in extras i havent billed to one of my contractors for just that stuff. And thats about 2 months worth. I have one guy whos only job is to fix [email protected]*k ups and year ends. :yes:


Holy! Crazy man! lol


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> Holy Moose boy, did you get a girl friend or something, you sound really b1tchy:whistling2:
> 
> No such thing as a perfect tape job anyhow........
> 
> As one old time taper asked me, when I first started taping" do you try to do a perfect job all the time ?"
> I proudly stated yes:yes:, to which he replied,"Your in the wrong job then,get yourself a easel and be a artist, This is a business to make money" ......So I kept my mouth shut, and listened to what he had to say, which in a nut shell, was do acceptable work....
> 
> Whats Better, doing a perfect job in 2 weeks, then don't get paid for it. or do 2 acceptable jobs in 2 weeks, and not get paid for one


I like your old time taper.

If one has progressed in skills and reached the level of 'pro', maybe the definition of 'perfect' could progress as well for that pro? Like being able to go beyond just knowing how to do a job well, to knowing and putting in what's required - but not more, not less - to be maximally profitable(?)

Problem is, at least for me, is how to all the time accurately determine what's 'acceptable' in a given situation. Definitions can be pretty subjective at times. What's 'perfect' to one might be 'less than perfect' to someone else. Or 'more than perfect' to another someone else.

A commercial drywall company owner once told me that he told his guys to always leave some easy enough to find imperfections alone - that the ones inspecting the jobs were going to find some/something anyway, and leaving them something easy enough to find would give them something, rather than them nitpicking. They'd then go back in and fix the imperfections asap, and everyone was happy, or happy enough.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> " Touch up" to us is when all tool work and coats are complete . We will touch up usually before final sand. Once sanded we do a final check,,,, thats when we shoot for perfect. I pride myself on not going back for things that got missed ( go backs ) . Go backs used to kill me years ago,, now I cant even remember the last go back:thumbsup:. Ive stated that Ive used food color before but that was to keep track of different tapers progress. We have NEVER had a bleedthru with it, but have only done a couple times. Ive seen chalklines bleed thru on several occasions, pencil and pen also. The back of my 6" knife will mark the wall if a reminder is needed, or a piece of blue tape works even better


same here:thumbsup:

After all is coated, we walk around with a light, and hunt for any thing bad, lines, pocks, nicks or dings etc.... Then we sand. same thing with the pride thing, you don't want a call back (go back) after the painter has primed, not good for future work.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

JustMe said:


> I like your old time taper.
> 
> If one has progressed in skills and reached the level of 'pro', maybe the definition of 'perfect' could progress as well for that pro? Like being able to go beyond just knowing how to do a job well, to knowing and putting in what's required - but not more, not less - to be maximally profitable(?)
> 
> Problem is, at least for me, is how to all the time accurately determine what's 'acceptable' in a given situation. Definitions can be pretty subjective at times. What's 'perfect' to one might be 'less than perfect' to someone else. Or 'more than perfect' to another someone else.
> 
> A commercial drywall company owner once told me that he told his guys to always leave some easy enough to find imperfections alone - that the ones inspecting the jobs were going to find some/something anyway, and leaving them something easy enough to find would give them something, rather than them nitpicking. They'd then go back in and fix the imperfections asap, and everyone was happy, or happy enough.


exactly:thumbsup:
This is a trade, where the more perfect you are, the less money you make. They don't care if you give all your stuff a extra coat, or barely half to sand, they just want it to pass....just make it acceptable, not perfect:yes:


----------



## DLSdrywall

2buckcanuck said:


> same here:thumbsup:
> 
> After all is coated, we walk around with a light, and hunt for any thing bad, lines, pocks, nicks or dings etc.... Then we sand. same thing with the pride thing, you don't want a call back (go back) after the painter has primed, not good for future work.


I've never gone and touched up my work after it's primed i finish with a light and sand with 150 then check out my work with a 300 watt light, so anything i do miss is so minimal that the checkout guy will probally miss it. Not bragging i put more work into the finish so theres barely anything to sand.


----------



## carpentaper

" , but if I framed a house, it would be perfect!"

PT that cracks me up! i'm framing right now. if i went for perfect half of the lumber would be in a useless stack and i'd still be farting around on the first floor with my thumb up my a$$ and my level in the other saying" why can't i make this perfect?" 
framing is go time for me.


----------



## SlimPickins

carpentaper said:


> " , but if I framed a house, it would be perfect!"
> 
> PT that cracks me up! i'm framing right now. if i went for perfect half of the lumber would be in a useless stack and i'd still be farting around on the first floor with my thumb up my a$$ and my level in the other saying" why can't i make this perfect?"
> framing is go time for me.


Carpentaper, do you mean to tell me that you're not running your framing materials through a jointer and planer before building your walls? 

And you call yourself a professional.......:whistling2:

I got to play architect today, drawing up plans for a garage remodel. Pulling permits on remodel is not the funnest thing I've ever done. However, it is pretty nice to get paid to sit at home and doodle on the 'puter.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

carpentaper said:


> " , but if I framed a house, it would be perfect!"
> 
> PT that cracks me up! i'm framing right now. if i went for perfect half of the lumber would be in a useless stack and i'd still be farting around on the first floor with my thumb up my a$$ and my level in the other saying" why can't i make this perfect?"
> framing is go time for me.


Haha! Well perfect compared to the crap I have to deal with!


----------



## carpentaper

i worked for a guy who wanted absolute perfection. he would get bent out of shape if a wall was out 1/4" over 8 feet and be really dissapointed in the guys who put it up. i was always arguing about what is acceptable industry standards. i always shoot for perfection but if something is within an 1/8" i let it go. you just have to be really carefull when framing because if you let those 1/8" add up all over the place you can end up with half inches all over the place if that makes sense. 

the problem i find is a lot of guys don't know where to fuss and where not to. you're building needs to LOOK level,LOOK square,LOOK plumb, and LOOK straight. it only needs to BE those things in certain areas depending on finishes,cabinets,trim,etc. i can't tell you how many times i've wanted to tell guys to put the F**KING level down and use your eyes. i've also learned that not everyone has a good eye. you either have it or you don't and it does not have to be trained. i have been suprised at how many homeowners have better eyes than the people building.

thats the end of my rant. can you tell i've delt with this a lot.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> i worked for a guy who wanted absolute perfection. he would get bent out of shape if a wall was out 1/4" over 8 feet and be really dissapointed in the guys who put it up. i was always arguing about what is acceptable industry standards. i always shoot for perfection but if something is within an 1/8" i let it go. you just have to be really carefull when framing because if you let those 1/8" add up all over the place you can end up with half inches all over the place if that makes sense.
> 
> the problem i find is a lot of guys don't know where to fuss and where not to. you're building needs to LOOK level,LOOK square,LOOK plumb, and LOOK straight. it only needs to BE those things in certain areas depending on finishes,cabinets,trim,etc. i can't tell you how many times i've wanted to tell guys to put the F**KING level down and use your eyes. i've also learned that not everyone has a good eye. you either have it or you don't and it does not have to be trained. i have been suprised at how many homeowners have better eyes than the people building.
> 
> thats the end of my rant. can you tell i've delt with this a lot.


 your best post ever, your bang on:thumbsup:

people will notice something is out by eye, and confirm by level or straight edge that it is. But if it looks good/level/straight/etc, then they are none the wiser:yes:


----------



## thefinisher

It is easy to see the people on here who are just finishers and those that are involved more with the job. When we were just finishing then yes we didn't care what happened after we were done. Now we take on the entire Drywall job and we absolutely care what everybody does to contribute to the final product. We Walk through all our houses after they have been primed and all the woodwork is done to touch up almost all imperfections visible under a halogen light at a low angle to the wall and ceilings. We then will come back right before final color goes on and touch up anything the homeowner or builder wants done..... for free. Perfect finishing is impossible, there will always be something to touch up afterward.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

thefinisher said:


> It is easy to see the people on here who are just finishers and those that are involved more with the job. When we were just finishing then yes we didn't care what happened after we were done. Now we take on the entire Drywall job and we absolutely care what everybody does to contribute to the final product. We Walk through all our houses after they have been primed and all the woodwork is done to touch up almost all imperfections visible under a halogen light at a low angle to the wall and ceilings. We then will come back right before final color goes on and touch up anything the homeowner or builder wants done..... for free. Perfect finishing is impossible, there will always be something to touch up afterward.


That's what I hate. I finished painting a house last week and I was absolutely the very last guy in there before the young couple started moving in. They were moving in that very night. Just starting to bring a few things in at a time. And as they were bringing stuff in I could see them rubbing up against the walls and I was like " Omg omg....
My walls...." but I held my tongue.
It's their house now. Some people just don't think about it or notice the little things we do.


----------



## moore

PrecisionTaping said:


> That's what I hate. I finished painting a house last week and I was absolutely the very last guy in there before the young couple started moving in. They were moving in that very night. Just starting to bring a few things in at a time. And as they were bringing stuff in I could see them rubbing up against the walls and I was like " Omg omg....
> My walls...." but I held my tongue.
> It's their house now. Some people just don't think about it or notice the little things we do.


 But what you were really thinking was..
Omg omg....My perfect finish! My perfect finish!! :lol::lol:


----------



## DLSdrywall

I love getting into a house and the boards sh framing is crooked as a pigeons dic We wave our magic wand and magically it looks awesome. The good finishers of taping are like magicians, we make the framers, drywallers, and painters look good. How many times have you pulled no coat 1/2 on one side and 3/4 inch on the other side just to make it "look" straight. I always said taping is just a illusion.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

moore said:


> But what you were really thinking was..
> Omg omg....My perfect finish! My perfect finish!! :lol:


Exactly!!! See! Moore understands me! :yes:



DLSdrywall said:


> I love getting into a house and the boards sh framing is crooked as a pigeons dic We wave our magic wand and magically it looks awesome. The good finishers of taping are like magicians, we make the framers, drywallers, and painters look good. How many times have you pulled no coat 1/2 on one side and 3/4 inch on the other side just to make it "look" straight. I always said taping is just a illusion.


Very true! Very true.


----------



## JustMe

PrecisionTaping said:


> And as they were bringing stuff in I could see them rubbing up against the walls and I was like " Omg omg....My walls...." but I held my tongue.


I would've been thinking "omg, omg, all that time wasted. I didn't have to do such a perfect job after all".


----------



## PrecisionTaping

JustMe said:


> I would've been thinking "omg, omg, all that time wasted. I didn't have to do such a perfect job after all".


There's no such thing as wasted time if you charge for it.


----------



## JustMe

PrecisionTaping said:


> There's no such thing as wasted time if you charge for it.


Of course there is. Work not needed is time wasted, whether charged for or not.

But that's my values. They've kept me as busy as I've wanted to be over the years, in part because customers have considered that I've taken their interests into account as well. I let them know that up front.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

JustMe said:


> Of course there is. Work not needed is time wasted, whether charged for or not.
> 
> But that's my values. They've kept me as busy as I've wanted to be over the years, in part because customers have considered that I've taken their interests into account as well. I let them know that up front.


Same here. 
I just don't like the attitude of I'm going to give them an "acceptable" job because it's just going to get ruined down the road.
That's not my call to make.
The last thing I'd want to hear from my client when I ask them if they're happy with everything is "well....it's acceptable.."


----------



## JustMe

PrecisionTaping said:


> Same here.
> I just don't like the attitude of I'm going to give them an "acceptable" job because it's just going to get ruined down the road.
> That's not my call to make.
> The last thing I'd want to hear from my client when I ask them if they're happy with everything is "well....it's acceptable.."


You can make it your call somewhat, and with their nod of approval. 

A little story, of how I'd sometimes price tree work:

Me to customers: It'll cost 2,500.00 to fully prune those trees out. How much were you thinking to spend.
Customers: We were thinking 2,000.00.
Me: Okay. What we can do is prune out everything in the lower 2/3 area - the part that gets most noticed - and take out the larger dead above that, that could pose a hazard, along with a couple larger branches that should especially come out.
Customers: Sounds good. Do it.

That was better to them than the 2,500.00 tag.

On a previous side job house: If you spend a little more on the ceiling, you won't have to do texture and its cost, but instead will have a painted ceiling, which will stand out among all the ceilings that are now being textured.
Customers: Sounds good. Do it.

When pricing by the hour: How much would you like to spend?
Customer: Not really sure.
Me: Tell you what. I'll do the priorities, then we'll see what the amount is for having done them and go from there. If you want to spend more, you can. If you don't, the smaller things can always be fixed up some other time (which rarely happens).
Customer: Sounds good. Do it. 

By opening them up to possibilities like that, those choices become the most acceptable to them, rather than 'perfect'.
That kind of 'acceptable' - maximizing value for their dollar for them - I have little problem giving them.
While at the same time getting a fair return for my time.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

2buckcanuck said:


> That's debatable:yes:


sorry depends what country your from or area district jurisdiction country

state province or cellblock


----------



## PrecisionTaping

JustMe said:


> You can make it your call somewhat, and with their nod of approval.
> 
> A little story, of how I'd sometimes price tree work:
> 
> Me to customers: It'll cost 2,500.00 to fully prune those trees out. How much were you thinking to spend.
> Customers: We were thinking 2,000.00.
> Me: Okay. What we can do is prune out everything in the lower 2/3 area - the part that gets most noticed - and take out the larger dead above that, that could pose a hazard, along with a couple larger branches that should especially come out.
> Customers: Sounds good. Do it.
> 
> That was better to them than the 2,500.00 tag.
> 
> On a previous side job house: If you spend a little more on the ceiling, you won't have to do texture and its cost, but instead will have a painted ceiling, which will stand out among all the ceilings that are now being textured.
> Customers: Sounds good. Do it.
> 
> When pricing by the hour: How much would you like to spend?
> Customer: Not really sure.
> Me: Tell you what. I'll do the priorities, then we'll see what the amount is for having done them and go from there. If you want to spend more, you can. If you don't, the smaller things can always be fixed up some other time (which rarely happens).
> Customer: Sounds good. Do it.
> 
> By opening them up to possibilities like that, those choices become the most acceptable to them, rather than 'perfect'.
> That kind of 'acceptable' - maximizing value for their dollar for them - I have little problem giving them.
> While at the same time getting a fair return for my time.


Oh I agree! 100%
But that's completely different then what were talking about. 
I never said I don't give my clients options. Just the I do everything 100%. As I'm sure you do too, with what was included in your contract.
If you pruned the lower 2/3 of the tree, I bet you did that perfectly. Not have done an acceptable job. That's all I'm saying.
Regardless of what the job is. I always give my clients options.

It's funny what you mentioned about the spending more on the ceiling and not having to texture. Just different areas and different ways of looking at things.
All my homes come standard with a flat ceiling, that's included in my sq/ft price.
Textures are not however. I charge extra for textures.


----------



## JustMe

PrecisionTaping said:


> It's funny what you mentioned about the spending more on the ceiling and not having to texture. Just different areas and different ways of looking at things.
> All my homes come standard with a flat ceiling, that's included in my sq/ft price.
> Textures are not however. I charge extra for textures.


The texturing would've cost them more than painting. But they had to pay more to get it to paintable quality, than if they were going to texture.

They were doing their own painting, and the ceiling they left a flat white, so pretty easy for them to do and save money. The texturing they would've gotten someone else for. I could've got them someone, who I had in mind.

All other quotes they got had texturing in the prices, since it's what they asked for. They never thought to consider doing it without texturing, I guess, and no one else offered the suggestion.

As for pruning the lower 2/3 of the trees perfectly - :no:. Do you know long I'd have to be in there to do that on some big trees that hadn't been pruned for awhile?

But experience let me know how to prune them, to have the customers happy and still bring it in at the 2,000.00 mark in a way that gave an acceptable return on my time. Some main cuts can do a lot to change the structure and look of some trees. After that, some cleanup cuts to finesse things better, and I had some smiling faces handing me over a cheque.


----------



## SlimPickins

JustMe said:


> You can make it your call somewhat, and with their nod of approval.
> 
> A little story, of how I'd sometimes price tree work:
> 
> Me to customers: It'll cost 2,500.00 to fully prune those trees out. How much were you thinking to spend.
> Customers: We were thinking 2,000.00.
> Me: Okay. What we can do is prune out everything in the lower 2/3 area - the part that gets most noticed - and take out the larger dead above that, that could pose a hazard, along with a couple larger branches that should especially come out.
> Customers: Sounds good. Do it.
> 
> That was better to them than the 2,500.00 tag.
> 
> On a previous side job house: If you spend a little more on the ceiling, you won't have to do texture and its cost, but instead will have a painted ceiling, which will stand out among all the ceilings that are now being textured.
> Customers: Sounds good. Do it.
> 
> When pricing by the hour: How much would you like to spend?
> Customer: Not really sure.
> Me: Tell you what. I'll do the priorities, then we'll see what the amount is for having done them and go from there. If you want to spend more, you can. If you don't, the smaller things can always be fixed up some other time (which rarely happens).
> Customer: Sounds good. Do it.
> 
> By opening them up to possibilities like that, those choices become the most acceptable to them, rather than 'perfect'.
> That kind of 'acceptable' - maximizing value for their dollar for them - I have little problem giving them.
> While at the same time getting a fair return for my time.


It's true that _most_ homeowners don't want it to be perfect. It's a rare client to whom money is not an issue.

I like to tell clients the bare minimum that needs to be done, then discuss options beyond that. Textures vary in price according to the finish that will need to be achieved prior, and I make them pay more for smooth.

However, I've found that 90% of people who say "I'm not picky" really ARE picky. I never back off on quality when someone says "I'm not picky"......:no:


----------



## JustMe

SlimPickins said:


> However, I've found that 90% of people who say "I'm not picky" really ARE picky. I never back off on quality when someone says "I'm not picky"......:no:


There's quality, there's above and beyond quality, and then there's anal quality. Been there, done that. I'm still trying to get my head out of my *ss at times. 

If they're going to be picky to where they have their heads up their *sses about it, they can pay for their emotional/psychological shortcomings already, instead of putting it on my back.

And sometimes they'll work you, to see if they can get more out of you.

A little story, about the painted ceiling house:

'Perfectionist' husband to me, as I'm getting closer to being finished: Looks pretty good.
Wife right after that to me, with her not knowing what he'd said: He was going on last night about how good everything was looking.
Me: O, yeah.


----------



## carpentaper

If they're going to be picky to where they have their heads up their *sses about it, they can pay for their emotional/psychological shortcomings already, instead of putting it on my back.


nice one!!:thumbsup:


----------



## Toolnut

Wow PT things are so different in different places. here in central fl. everything is textured walls and ceiling. during the building boom everything was done fast, doing it well never entered into it. They would come in put one coat on seams most did not even tape where wall meets ceiling, then came the texture believing the texture would hide all imperfections and they would be on to the next house sooner. this worked because by the time problems started to show up they were long gone. so it adds a lot to the price if they want smooth walls or ceiling.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Toolnut said:


> Wow PT things are so different in different places. here in central fl. everything is textured walls and ceiling. during the building boom everything was done fast, doing it well never entered into it. They would come in put one coat on seams most did not even tape where wall meets ceiling, then came the texture believing the texture would hide all imperfections and they would be on to the next house sooner. this worked because by the time problems started to show up they were long gone. so it adds a lot to the price if they want smooth walls or ceiling.


That's insane...
Yup, about 80% of the houses I do are all smooth ceilings. If they're not smoooth, it's a knockdown.


----------



## SlimPickins

JustMe said:


> There's quality, there's above and beyond quality, and then there's anal quality. Been there, done that. I'm still trying to get my head out of my *ss at times.
> 
> If they're going to be picky to where they have their heads up their *sses about it, they can pay for their emotional/psychological shortcomings already, instead of putting it on my back.
> 
> And sometimes they'll work you, to see if they can get more out of you.
> 
> A little story, about the painted ceiling house:
> 
> 'Perfectionist' husband to me, as I'm getting closer to being finished: Looks pretty good.
> Wife right after that to me, with her not knowing what he'd said: He was going on last night about how good everything was looking.
> Me: O, yeah.


My general take on it is this:

I have a network of tradesmen that I work for/with/give-work-to. Primarily, I look out for my fellows. Which means:


make the builder look good (keep cracks from happening, respect his clients, show up (!), etc.
keep the painter happy (for some reason painters like me:blink
make the finish carpenters' job as easy as possible.
Most homeowners don't notice the little flaws, but they sure as hell notice big humps in their living room ceiling. 

I like being able to produce high quality work, but I don't feel as if I'm married to it like I once was.


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## CatD7

I thought I invented the whole blue chalk in the mud thing. Some of you guys must have brains wired like mine.:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

PrecisionTaping said:


> That's insane...
> Yup, about 80% of the houses I do are all smooth ceilings. If they're not smoooth, it's a knockdown.


Everything here is flat! So every job has 2 b 100%!
No ifs or butts it has 2 b perfct:thumbup:
But then u get the other tapers who get away with crap work and get payed the same!:furious:
But it is my perfection that keeps me in work as i dont need 2 advartise or go looking for work it comes 2 me:whistling2:
The last 2 jobs i did they never even asked for a price,It was a case of i'm not caring about the price i just want u 2 do it!!!
Makes u feel good that people think of my work like that!!!


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## gazman

I know what you are saying. The job that we just finished I was $1500 more expensive than the next quote. But the bloke was like " I want you to do the job".


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## VANMAN

gazman said:


> I know what you are saying. The job that we just finished I was $1500 more expensive than the next quote. But the bloke was like " I want you to do the job".


Yea Gaz and u r prob on every job 2? When companys get bigger then the quality of work goes down! I could get more workers but then my rep will go 2 s*it!!! Better keepin it small and working!!:thumbup:


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## gazman

VANMAN said:


> Yea Gaz and u r prob on every job 2? When companys get bigger then the quality of work goes down! I could get more workers but then my rep will go 2 s*it!!! Better keepin it small and working!!:thumbup:


Absolutely could not agree more.:yes:


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## moore

We didn't spend half our lives learning a trade to do It for a little of nothing.


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## Capt-sheetrock

One the funniest things I think I have every expereinced,,, is when someone askes what I do for a living,,,and I tell I have my own drywall bussiness,,,,,,,

and they say,,,,,,,


wait for it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


"Have you ever had a REAL job"

:blink:


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## moore

I was sitting on a bar stool one night [moons ago] The guy next to me asked me ...watch ya do for a living? I said I'm a drywall man..He looked down at his beer and said ..I'm sorry!


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## JustMe

Capt-sheetrock said:


> One the funniest things I think I have every expereinced,,, is when someone askes what I do for a living,,,and I tell I have my own drywall bussiness,,,,,,,
> 
> and they say,,,,,,,
> 
> 
> wait for it,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
> 
> 
> "Have you ever had a REAL job"
> 
> :blink:


I was told that if I ever go in for something like a loan, to Not tell them I'm into drywall. Instead, call myself an Interior Systems Mechanic.



moore said:


> I was sitting on a bar stool one night [moons ago] The guy next to me asked me ...watch ya do for a living? I said I'm a drywall man..He looked down at his beer and said ..I'm sorry!


I run into more guys that tell me they Used to be into taping/a taper.


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## Mountain Man

Eyeball drywall, it's all smoke and mirrors!!!


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## Timpowers604

get some painters acrylic tint I seen a bottle in a picture above use only a little we use light yellow or green. benjamin moore sells them in a plastic bottle about 500ml for $20 this will last a long time


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## RyWalDrywall

On large commercial jobs where you have multiple people working for you, I get everyone sanding to put a little blue chalk line dust in their mud for touch-ups,its hard to say who will be going back through to sand the touch-ups so it takes the guess work out of it. Remember chalk line chalk has a rating on the bottle for how permanent they are, I always use the least permanent and have never had an issue with it bleeding through.


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## moore

Mountain Man said:


> Eyeball drywall, it's all smoke and mirrors!!!


:yes:


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