# PC sander swirl marks



## MacDry

Hey guys.

So not to long ago i got the porter cable sander. And i am always getting crazy swirl marks, like a lot pf them and very noticble. Dont know what i can do differently. What grit paper u guys use? What speed you run at it?


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## PETE

ive been using joest pads for awhile now with no problems 220 grit


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## gazman

As Pete said 220 grit. I run it at 4.5 on the dial mainly because I dont like to run things full speed I think it shortens the life span of equipment. With the swirl marks dont keep the p/c still dont push to hard and when you start get going on the board first and move on to the join. I go down each side of the join and then one light pass down the middle. Hope this helps.


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## cazna

It depends on the muds as well, Softer will give more swirls and harder muds less, You have to keep it moving, I use 220g, Also the radius 360 with foam pad and a worn 220g behind the sander helps, Just lighly, Not to much. Or the flex edge sander with a worn fine foam pad:thumbsup:


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## P.A. ROCKER

I've recently started running one and my sanding is looking really good. 220 (pre burnt) over rapid coat. Let the sander float on the bristles when changing direction. I pivot the machine away from the seam.

I love the power sander!!!


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## GYPSUMTRADESMAN

MacDry said:


> Hey guys.
> 
> So not to long ago i got the porter cable sander. And i am always getting crazy swirl marks, like a lot pf them and very noticble. Dont know what i can do differently. What grit paper u guys use? What speed you run at it?


i like to sand with the velcro kind norton for 1st coat i go speeds at 4,5 for second 3,4 but for sanding skim coat or third coat i sand at 1.5 or 2 dont leave the sander in one spot for a long time also use 220 for last coat sanding 180 for second and 150 for 1st coat the porter cable is a great tool to sand but you have to get the hang of it :thumbsup:


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## Stopper

As well as getting the 220 grit pads you could slow your speed down, think I always used 3, and be careful where you place the edge of the sanding disk, either just onto the edge of a join if you're wanting to feather it. or just over the middle of the join or center the pad on the join, never dither in between, most joins are slightly crowned and the edge of ya sanding disk will dig into the "hill" etc, and leave swirly marks.


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## Tucker

Also....make sure you don't have any torn paper on the edge of your disk. A little nick in the paper can make for a lot of touch up.


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## Kiwiman

After the p/c I always give it a quick go over with the radius pole sander to take out the swirlys and overlaps.


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## Muddauber

PETE said:


> ive been using joest pads for awhile now with no problems 220 grit


 
Same here. I run it at a slower speed so not to polish the mud.


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## robert seke

Try using Joest 280.. This is little different in appearance to the yellow 220 and courser discs most are familiar with. The 280 is a gold color that also has a stearated coating which "softens" the impact and also prevents loading. I have heard it is a flawless finish on either pole sanders or electric sanders. P/M me if you need sources of purchase.


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## PrecisionTaping

Hmm...good advice in this thread!!
Today was only my 2nd time using it and I was kind'a wondering the same thing! It worked really well actually. Starting to get the hang of it. I was using 180, and overall it looked pretty good. But because im fairly inexperienced there were a few swirl marks. 
But damn thos things are heavy!! My shoulder and neck are just shot right now!! Shoulders dead. I think because its new the swivel on the head isnt as smooth as it can be....so I have to hold the sander almost parallel to the ceiling to avoid burn marks from it digging in. So I pretty well had my arms over my head all day and I more or less wish I was dead right now. :blink: So sore....
It was all ceilings....all day!
A contractor needed us to do a level 5 finish over all the ceilings in the entire house to fix someone elses bad job!
And it wasn't a small house...


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## saskataper

I'm in the same boat. I've used it on a few jobs now and I'm still wondering if its worth it, i did a basement suite last week with 220 radius discs with a light wipe with a black widow with 180 (which buy the way kicks ass, put it on my fiberglass corner roller handle and it weighs almost nothing.) I'm thinking the P.C. is more suited to harder muds, I've been using synco lite finish which scratches when you looks at it wrong but I'm thinking of trying pro roc.


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## PrecisionTaping

saskataper said:


> I'm in the same boat. I've used it on a few jobs now and I'm still wondering if its worth it, i did a basement suite last week with 220 radius discs with a light wipe with a black widow with 180 (which buy the way kicks ass, put it on my fiberglass corner roller handle and it weighs almost nothing.) I'm thinking the P.C. is more suited to harder muds, I've been using synco lite finish which scratches when you looks at it wrong but I'm thinking of trying pro roc.


Sounds almost exactly like me last week!!
Exactly!! Same thing. MachineMud sent me a black widow sander in the mail (we traded some stuff) and I loved it too! Did the same thing! Put in on my columbia corner roller handle and its so light! Blew my mind! Loved it!


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Sounds almost exactly like me last week!!
> Exactly!! Same thing. MachineMud sent me a black widow sander in the mail (we traded some stuff) and I loved it too! Did the same thing! Put in on my columbia corner roller handle and its so light! Blew my mind! Loved it!


Get one of these, and don't bother with their paper. The foam back paper will attach to it so........:yes:

Only use it for finish sanding, not rough


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## saskataper

got one and they are great for the angles but the black widow takes it on the flats.


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## Stopper

Just wanted to add something more, power sanders aren't for finishing nor are radius 360's or pole sanders, you cannot see well enough if you're swinging on the end of a pole or power sander, they're for roughing out the worst of it, you still have to get in close with a strong light and sanding block to make sure.

People on youtube thiffing over their work with radius 360's etc and not taking the time to actually check their work properly aren't doing it right.
Why put all that effort into stopping drywall if you're going to do a half arsed job sanding it?.

Pole sanders are for "PAINTERS" a drywall stopper has no business swinging on the end of a pole sander, pole sanders are for lightly sanding paint work, not compound. Get in there with a hand sander and get dusty, don't be a soft Clock by using a pole sander.


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## 2buckcanuck

Stopper said:


> Just wanted to add something more, power sanders aren't for finishing nor are radius 360's or pole sanders, you cannot see well enough if you're swinging on the end of a pole or power sander, they're for roughing out the worst of it, you still have to get in close with a strong light and sanding block to make sure.
> 
> People on youtube thiffing over their work with radius 360's etc and not taking the time to actually check their work properly aren't doing it right.
> Why put all that effort into stopping drywall if you're going to do a half arsed job sanding it?.
> 
> Pole sanders are for "PAINTERS" a drywall stopper has no business swinging on the end of a pole sander, pole sanders are for lightly sanding paint work, not compound. Get in there with a hand sander and get dusty, don't be a soft Clock by using a pole sander.


Them there's fighting words if your calling me a painter:furious::furious::furious:

Read my signature:furious:


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## Stopper

2buckcanuck said:


> Them there's fighting words if your calling me a painter:furious::furious::furious:
> 
> Read my signature:furious:


 Have you ever rolled mud on with a lambs wool roller? A classic sign of a painter come finisher trying to adpart his painting habits to drywall finishing. :thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

Stopper said:


> Have you ever rolled mud on with a lambs wool roller? A classic sign of a painter come finisher trying to adpart his painting habits to drywall finishing. :thumbup:


No, I use a toilet brush like Gazman, so I guess that makes me a janitor. That's why my 30 years of experiance flushes guys like you out of the market:thumbsup:


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## Stopper

2buckcanuck said:


> No, I use a toilet brush like Gazman, so I guess that makes me a janitor. That's why my 30 years of experiance flushes guys like you out of the market:thumbsup:


You love the lambs wool...


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## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Get one of these, and don't bother with their paper. The foam back paper will attach to it so........:yes:
> 
> Only use it for finish sanding, not rough


Yup :thumbsup:, ideal for finish sanding soft muds, I still check with a 500w halogen but over boxed seams there is very little to spot sand.


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## Philma Crevices

Whats the deal with those flex edges? They take regular paper and can use foam?


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## Kiwiman

Philma Crevices said:


> Whats the deal with those flex edges? They take regular paper and can use foam?


Yup, foam pad good, paper pad bad.


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## cazna

Stopper said:


> Get in there with a hand sander and get dusty, don't be a soft Clock by using a pole sander.


Your a keen man, Dont you use pro mix, Thats hard mud, Made for PC sanders.

I have no bother with using PCs, Its like any other tool, They can all do damage if your not aware and take care when using them.


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## robert seke

Pete,

Where are you getting your Joest from? Also, you gotta try the 280 or 320 gold line from Joest for level 5. Really incredible finish....


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## jswain

In Australia the most popular sanding pad for Power Sanders is the Wallboard Super pad that features a rim free of holes that reduces the chances of the paper tearing which is a major cause of swirl marks http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.php?p=1872&c=6 There's also another product we call Super Mesh that originated in the automotive industry which guarantees a super fine finish http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.php?p=2073&c=1 not sure where the mesh would be available in the US but could find out if anyone is interested just message me.


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## Philma Crevices

Stopper said:


> Have you ever rolled mud on with a lambs wool roller? A classic sign of a painter come finisher trying to adpart his painting habits to drywall finishing. :thumbup:


 We roll quite often, how dare you refer to us as painters :whistling2: 
It's Sr. Seagull trainer @ Seawolrd to you!


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## 2buckcanuck

Stopper said:


> You love the lambs wool...


Only the virgin stuff, but that stuff is too hard to find because of you kiwi's


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## PrecisionTaping

Felt bad putting up that animation. lol!
Decided to take it down. Seemed a little crude.


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## PETE

robert seke said:


> Pete,
> 
> Where are you getting your Joest from? Also, you gotta try the 280 or 320 gold line from Joest for level 5. Really incredible finish....


i get them from walltools.com or all-wall.com. pretty much the best pads for the pc


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## Kiwiman

jswain said:


> In Australia the most popular sanding pad for Power Sanders is the Wallboard Super pad that features a rim free of holes that reduces the chances of the paper tearing which is a major cause of swirl marks http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.php?p=1872&c=6 There's also another product we call Super Mesh that originated in the automotive industry which guarantees a super fine finish http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.php?p=2073&c=1 not sure where the mesh would be available in the US but could find out if anyone is interested just message me.


The wallboard super pads are the ones I've got, the problem I found was specks of the sand coming free and creating fine scratching whether used with the P/C or the radius pole sander, atleast I presume thats whats doing it, I use to blame the mud but it still did it no matter what mud I used.


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## robert seke

jswain said:


> In Australia the most popular sanding pad for Power Sanders is the Wallboard Super pad that features a rim free of holes that reduces the chances of the paper tearing which is a major cause of swirl marks http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.php?p=1872&c=6 There's also another product we call Super Mesh that originated in the automotive industry which guarantees a super fine finish http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.php?p=2073&c=1 not sure where the mesh would be available in the US but could find out if anyone is interested just message me.


Mate, I am very curious are the Superpads you are referring to without the holes on the edge also have the same fiber-foam backing as the ones with the holes to the edge? Does it seem identical other than the holes on the edge?:blink:


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## jswain

Hey Kiwiman, I haven't heard of that issue before but will investigate. We regularly carry out testing on the Wallboard Super Pad range to ensure top performance. As mentioned we also have the Super Mesh that provides a super fine finish and performs very differently to sandpaper faced products. Super Mesh is made of aluminium oxide grain but still has the cushioned velcro backing. I will send samples of both the current Super Pads and Super Mesh for you to check out.


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## robert seke

jswain said:


> Hey Kiwiman, I haven't heard of that issue before but will investigate. We regularly carry out testing on the Wallboard Super Pad range to ensure top performance. As mentioned we also have the Super Mesh that provides a super fine finish and performs very differently to sandpaper faced products. Super Mesh is made of aluminium oxide grain but still has the cushioned velcro backing. I will send samples of both the current Super Pads and Super Mesh for you to check out.


Mate, I beg you to request samples of the Joest aluminum oxide 320 grit (gold color). It is in the family of the yellow superpad P's except that it gives a very fine finish. In fact, in comparison to mesh, it should actually leave a superior finish due to the filler added to the grit to keep it from loading. Also mesh tends to "flake" grains as it is difficult to bond it properly to the screen in comparison to a coated and bonded abrasive. The gold series is relatively unknown, but it is out there. Please request it from your source. Don't let them tell you its unavailable, because it is....:thumbup:


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## cazna

jswain said:


> Hey Kiwiman, I haven't heard of that issue before but will investigate. We regularly carry out testing on the Wallboard Super Pad range to ensure top performance. As mentioned we also have the Super Mesh that provides a super fine finish and performs very differently to sandpaper faced products. Super Mesh is made of aluminium oxide grain but still has the cushioned velcro backing. I will send samples of both the current Super Pads and Super Mesh for you to check out.


 
Those mesh sanding dics just scratch the hell of everything dont they?? Well they use too?


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## PrecisionTaping

cazna said:


> Those mesh sanding dics just scratch the hell of everything dont they?? Well they use too?


From my experience?! Yes...pretty much....


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## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Get one of these, and don't bother with their paper. The foam back paper will attach to it so........:yes:
> 
> Only use it for finish sanding, not rough


I Like the looks of it..:yes:


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## jswain

The Super Mesh is not the traditional mesh most people are used to. It's a superfine material called Abranet that we've tested and introduced for use in the Drywall industry in Australia 2 years ago. See this UK clip for a more information - http://www.mirkadustfreesanding.co.uk/video.html 
I'm sending some samples to Kiwiman today so maybe he could critique for the DWT crew :yes:


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## jswain

Also meant to mention these Abranet pads that we call Super Mesh are for use on the Wallpro or Porter Cable Power Sanders


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## moore

jswain said:


> The Super Mesh is not the traditional mesh most people are used to. It's a superfine material called Abranet that we've tested and introduced for use in the Drywall industry in Australia 2 years ago. See this UK clip for a more information - http://www.mirkadustfreesanding.co.uk/video.html
> I'm sending some samples to Kiwiman today so maybe he could critique for the DWT crew :yes:


 You guys down under are pretty sharp...:yes::thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman

jswain said:


> Hey Kiwiman, I haven't heard of that issue before but will investigate. We regularly carry out testing on the Wallboard Super Pad range to ensure top performance. As mentioned we also have the Super Mesh that provides a super fine finish and performs very differently to sandpaper faced products. Super Mesh is made of aluminium oxide grain but still has the cushioned velcro backing. I will send samples of both the current Super Pads and Super Mesh for you to check out.


That would be really great Jim :thumbsup:
I'm only guessing the scratches are from grains coming loose, but it'll be good to compare the different pads, really soft muds can be a delicate thing to sand.


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## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> That would be really great Jim :thumbsup:
> I'm only guessing the scratches are from grains coming loose, but it'll be good to compare the different pads, really soft muds can be a delicate thing to sand.


I know what you mean kiwiman, There is always a grain of sand or something that scratches it up, always. Hopefully our aussie neighbours have something up there sleeve :yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe

cazna said:


> I know what you mean kiwiman, There is always a grain of sand or something that scratches it up, always. Hopefully our aussie neighbours have something up there sleeve :yes:


aah huh, I got 2 up on Ole caz, Ok Apprentice cazna:jester: when you see the swirls taking place giver a tap and back to the sand swing ya go mate,

or maybe you mistaken it and had 120 disk


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## moore

Bazooka-Joe said:


> aah huh, I got 2 up on Ole caz, Ok Apprentice cazna:jester: when you see the swirls taking place giver a tap and back to the sand swing ya go mate,
> 
> or maybe you mistaken it and had 120 disk


 120?? Now.. who the hell would use 120 grit on there board?:whistling2:


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## P.A. ROCKER

moore said:


> 120?? Now.. who the hell would use 120 grit on there board?:whistling2:


I would. :whistling2:


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## moore

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I would. :whistling2:


 I do too ...just trying to get a rise out of joe...He hates 120..:yes:


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## P.A. ROCKER

I take a piece of 120 put it on the pole, burn it with the old piece. Barely push on the pole and it'll last for 300 + sheets if you don't ding it. Do the same with 150 You have to push harder and it won't last for 200. The sanding looks the same.:yes:


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## moore

YES!!! A worn down piece of 120 ends up a long lasting piece of 150...gator paper from lowes is weak...The 150 = 220 ..I like the gator paper..


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## P.A. ROCKER

$19 a hundred at the supply house.:thumbsup:


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## robert seke

jswain said:


> Also meant to mention these Abranet pads that we call Super Mesh are for use on the Wallpro or Porter Cable Power Sanders


Mate, I agree with everything you say about the Supermesh, however with any "superpmesh" or sandscreen as it is also called, you always have the high probability to have the grains breaking off and scratch. It is nearly impossible to attach grains on mesh and have it bonded so it does not flake off. That is why when you open a bag or box of screens you always see grit at the bottom of bag or box. The one good thing is that you are dealing with micro-grades and if vacuum is used, "generally" it picks up most of the loose grains. I have run tests on supermesh vs superpad p "gold" 280 or 320 and the finish, bonding and durability is much better. The problem is that down under, no one that I know of is aware of the Superpad P "gold" series even existing. I am quite sure once you try it you will agree. I will try to arrange to have some samples of the gold sent to WallPro for you to evaluate. Then get back with me to let me know what you think:thumbup:


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## Bazooka-Joe

moore said:


> YES!!! A worn down piece of 120 ends up a long lasting piece of 150...gator paper from lowes is weak...The 150 = 220 ..I like the gator paper..


yoou can say all ya want but I know that you know that I know and everyone knows we know that 120 is 120 yaaaa knowwww


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## 2buckcanuck

Bazooka-Joe said:


> yoou can say all ya want but I know that you know that I know and everyone knows we know that 120 is 120 yaaaa knowwww


So...... are you saying sand paper never wares down. We can just use the same piece for ever and ever


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## Muddauber

P.A. ROCKER said:


> $19 a hundred at the supply house.:thumbsup:


 Johnson paper sucks . To thin. Humidity will cause it to twist like a pretzel.:yes:


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## Peter Sadler

jswain said:


> Also meant to mention these Abranet pads that we call Super Mesh are for use on the Wallpro or Porter Cable Power Sanders


The Abranet product Jim is referring to is a product by Mirka Abrasives. Unlike traditional mesh products Abranet is a Polyamide backed sanding disc which is much softer and less aggressive on soft substrates like plaster. The resin over resin bonding of the aluminium oxide abrasive grain ensures you get a consistant and even cut without experiencing random scratches as previously mentioned in this thread. 220 grit to 240 grit will give a nice finish. The best thing about Abranet is the dust free performance compared to paper discs. Abranet provides a far superior dust free performance compared to anyother product on the market today.


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## robert seke

Peter Sadler said:


> The Abranet product Jim is referring to is a product by Mirka Abrasives. Unlike traditional mesh products Abranet is a Polyamide backed sanding disc which is much softer and less aggressive on soft substrates like plaster. The resin over resin bonding of the aluminium oxide abrasive grain ensures you get a consistant and even cut without experiencing random scratches as previously mentioned in this thread. 220 grit to 240 grit will give a nice finish. The best thing about Abranet is the dust free performance compared to paper discs. Abranet provides a far superior dust free performance compared to anyother product on the market today.


For the most part, I agree with your comments, but unlike the Superpads, Abranet does not come with the non-woven fiber (foam) backing. This is what one of the features that sets the products apart. The foam feature allows for the "jet-stream" to help evacuate the dust more efficiently into the vacuum. Also, with Superpads, you get a 93% hole to abrasive ratio versus 50-50 with Abranet. What this translates to is more abrasive working for you thus giving you longer abrasive life. With Abranet, there is also a higher ratio of changing the interface as the friction and heat of the machine wheres down the velcro loops. With the Superpad, you get a "interface pad protector" built right in... Obviously both products are great and both are Aluminum Oxide Ultimately its the consumer that decides:thumbup:


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## Peter Sadler

robert seke said:


> For the most part, I agree with your comments, but unlike the Superpads, Abranet does not come with the non-woven fiber (foam) backing. This is what one of the features that sets the products apart. The foam feature allows for the "jet-stream" to help evacuate the dust more efficiently into the vacuum. Also, with Superpads, you get a 93% hole to abrasive ratio versus 50-50 with Abranet. What this translates to is more abrasive working for you thus giving you longer abrasive life. With Abranet, there is also a higher ratio of changing the interface as the friction and heat of the machine wheres down the velcro loops. With the Superpad, you get a "interface pad protector" built right in... Obviously both products are great and both are Aluminum Oxide Ultimately its the consumer that decides:thumbup:


Thanks Robert, Mirka do make an Abranet product with a foam backing. Its called Abranet Soft! You can find it on the Mirka website.


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## robert seke

Yes mate, but there is a difference between foam and non-woven. The foam does not absorb the dust like the non-woven on Superpad. If it is the same foam as I have seen here in N.A on Mirkas line, it is a solid non-breathable foam.....However, it probably does help prolong the interface pad velcro life... Cheers!


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## AtlanticDrywall

Some of these have already been covered but I am going to cover them again:

- Some having digging problems with brand new power sanders. The reason for this is that the furring around the head of the sander is too long so the sand paper isn't making proper contact with the sheetrock. Instead of trimming down the furring, which most do, cut a thin piece of cardboard into a circle with a hole in the middle. Put that cardboard under the backer pad and you should be good to go. 

- Most of the sand paper rips easily especially when you're sanding over boxers. One small ding, crease, dent, or rip that that sand paper will cause serious digging.

- Same goes with a backer pad. Sometime when you hit a box hard the backer pad will be knocked off center. This causes a **** ton of digging. Pull the backer pad off and re-center it when putting it back on.

- Lightweight Joint Compounds. Some of these compounds are so lightweight it's hard not too dig even if you're sanding right. Red top joint compound is notorious for this. Using a light grit sand paper, turn the sander down, and do some poll sanding after the fact. 

- Most of the time people don't stay on top of greasing the drive shaft of the power sander. With wear and tear and no grease, the drive shaft will cause the head of the power sander to wobble. This is another sure cause of digging. Make sure you properly lube the drive shaft of the power sander every 4-6 jobs. If you do this your power sander will last a long time.


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## cazna

I have a flex giraffe, Never greased the cable, Should I?? Does anyone else have one of these and done it??


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## VANMAN

jswain said:


> The Super Mesh is not the traditional mesh most people are used to. It's a superfine material called Abranet that we've tested and introduced for use in the Drywall industry in Australia 2 years ago. See this UK clip for a more information - http://www.mirkadustfreesanding.co.uk/video.html
> I'm sending some samples to Kiwiman today so maybe he could critique for the DWT crew :yes:


 Just bought some of that Abranet disks for my pc but not had a chance 2 try them yet but they do look the business:thumbsup: Will find out this week! And Moore the flex edge sander is the best sander head u can buy:thumbup:


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## jswain

Sounds great Vanman, looking forward to a bit of straight forward feedback :thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

jswain said:


> Sounds great Vanman, looking forward to a bit of straight forward feedback :thumbsup:


No probs should b sanding on thursday so i will give my verdict then:thumbsup: But i can say they look like the biz:thumbup:


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## VANMAN

jswain said:


> Sounds great Vanman, looking forward to a bit of straight forward feedback :thumbsup:


 What about a pad for the pc desinged in the same way? Not a sanding pad but like the foam backing pad but with the same design 2 let the dust through better?:thumbsup: Could this b done?


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## jswain

They look to be 120 grit Vanman, in Oz we only have 180, 220 and 240. Be interesting to hear how the coarser grit goes.


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## VANMAN

jswain said:


> They look to be 120 grit Vanman, in Oz we only have 180, 220 and 240. Be interesting to hear how the coarser grit goes.


 Ur on the ball there chief:thumbsup: 120 is what they r but i am using a dif mud which is harder so i thought 120 would b good for it as its 150 most of the time! I can get 150 over here 2 but i will try this first for this mud then away 2 try another mud that is softer so go 150 if they r good pads:thumbup:


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## Kiwiman

I tried these new super mesh sanding pads today in a bedroom that was topcoated with soft Sheetrock midweight A/P, the problem with standard pads on soft mud is the grit comes loose and causes bad scratching, not these new mesh pads though, not one stray bit of grit.....brilliant :thumbsup: I can't comment on the P/C leaving swirly's because my velcro backing pad needs replacing and has curled up at the edges and it caused the edge of the mesh to leave swirl marks, one swipe with a mesh pad on the radius pole sander and they were gone....very smooth!!! Not like the other mesh gauze type sanders that leave the gauze lines behind. 
I can highly recommend them to anyone using super soft mud, I've sent a few over for Caz to try, he uses harder mud than me so we'll see how that works out.
PS - Thanks JSwain :thumbsup:


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## jswain

That's excellent Kiwiman! There's another bonus also - they last longer than Super Pads. Be interesting to get Cazna's take on things also :thumbup:


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## VANMAN

jswain said:


> That's excellent Kiwiman! There's another bonus also - they last longer than Super Pads. Be interesting to get Cazna's take on things also :thumbup:


 Used my pads today and its a :thumbsup: from me! 2 pads 2 sand a 360sqm house and there is still life left in them! The worn pads would work sweet with a softer mud! I will b buying a box of the 150 grit 2 try them:thumbup:


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## cazna

I got some too yesterday that kiwiman sent, Wow they look amazing, Even the yellow dics with no holes at the edges look like an improvement, With try them next week. Thanks.


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## Bazooka-Joe

2buckcanuck said:


> So...... are you saying sand paper never wares down. We can just use the same piece for ever and ever



watch'n way tooooo many Disney shows


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## cazna

cazna said:


> I got some too yesterday that kiwiman sent, Wow they look amazing, Even the yellow dics with no holes at the edges look like an improvement, With try them next week. Thanks.


Wow Jswain, Those new sanding discs are great, Bit visious at the start but they wear down soon enough, They are more like a sanding/polishing disc i guess than a sanding/sanding disc if that makes any sence :blink:

They last a little longer than a yellow disc but no scratches at all, Still some faint swirls but very minimal, Some swipes with a raduis and a dull disc and i have to say its the best i have done, Really smooth and well blended edges, It was medium soft ish mud i used, Nice mud to use with the tools but you had to be careful sanding, These dics are great, I highly recommend :thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> Wow Jswain, Those new sanding discs are great, Bit visious at the start but they wear down soon enough, They are more like a sanding/polishing disc i guess than a sanding/sanding disc if that makes any sence :blink:
> 
> They last a little longer than a yellow disc but no scratches at all, Still some faint swirls but very minimal, Some swipes with a raduis and a dull disc and i have to say its the best i have done, Really smooth and well blended edges, It was medium soft ish mud i used, Nice mud to use with the tools but you had to be careful sanding, These dics are great, I highly recommend :thumbsup:


I'm with u there Caz they r good disks:thumbsup: It was 120's i was using and for a start a few swirl marks,but after 5 mins nothing at all!!


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## cazna

VANMAN said:


> I'm with u there Caz they r good disks:thumbsup: It was 120's i was using and for a start a few swirl marks,but after 5 mins nothing at all!!


120s??? Holy crap, I had 220s and thought that was enough, You must have had harder mud than me.


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## Bazooka-Joe

cazna said:


> 120s??? Holy crap, I had 220s and thought that was enough, You must have had harder mud than me.


yeesh 120 yeesh, think he is mess'n with ya caz


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> 120s??? Holy crap, I had 220s and thought that was enough, You must have had harder mud than me.


 120 is what was used:yes: The filler was a bit harder that i was using!!


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## Bazooka-Joe

moore said:


> YES!!! A worn down piece of 120 ends up a long lasting piece of 150...gator paper from lowes is weak...The 150 = 220 ..I like the gator paper..


no way moore really I seen dem Gators but never tried it


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## moore

Bazooka-Joe said:


> no way moore really I seen dem Gators but never tried it


 The gator paper from lowes is weak ...Give er a try Joe...The 120 is like 150...the 150 is like 220 ...the sanding heads are throw a ways ..don't last too long ..but still a good sanding head... [cheap]..


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## Mikea197931

I've been running a porter cable for 15 years. Crap paint and crap mud have become a nightmare and is only getting worse. I gave up worrying about the swirls while power sanding. I run through it fast with 180-220 grit then go back through with a pole and just dust off flats , butts and bead. Use a good light during hand sand and it will pass. P.s. dont be afraid to change your pads often, it's cheaper to buy pads than to rebuild sander constantly.


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## cazna

This is the best thing for sander swirls, 1m long led strip light off ali express with battery pack, Fit in around your snader head and you can see if its swirling or not and make adjustments to suit.


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## cazna

Self stick the leds are in rubber, but you need to stick it on with a few dobs of sealer adhesive. Stick battery pack to sander head or cable ties to vac pipe.









Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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## P.A. ROCKER

cazna said:


> Self stick the leds are in rubber, but you need to stick it on with a few dobs of sealer adhesive. Stick battery pack to sander head or cable ties to vac pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk




Get it patented and retire. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## cazna

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Get it patented and retire.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I wish but its been done, You can get sanders with lights now.


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## Mikea197931

Lights wont help with proform red top. So so soft and pity. Terrible mud.


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## Phillytaper1955

He’s absolutely correct red top is pitifully soft mud


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## moore

All the light weight muds are very soft .


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## sandman

*Swirl from porter cable*

:jester:


PETE said:


> ive been using joest pads for awhile now with no problems 220 grit


Pete is absolutely correct. Due to Joest pads and the perforations and filter-like backing, the discs simply do not load up. A clean disc that is not loaded will not create swirl marks. Joest is the way to go.....:thumbup:


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## Mikea197931

Even with proform red lid , I'll never believe it until I see it.


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## endo_alley_revisited

Mikea197931 said:


> Even with proform red lid , I'll never believe it until I see it.


Can you mix it 50/50 with conventional all purpose for the final coat?


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