# LED lighting



## Masterplaster (Oct 9, 2012)

Hi all, recently did a curved ceiling, builder was very pleased with finished product as was I. 
When the job was quoted I suggested that it should probably be level 5. They were not interested. 
Now led lighting has gone in and you can see every joint and screw hole and they ring me and say what are you going to do about it? 
Still owe me ten grand, ceiling is painted. 
Has any one had this issue or have a way to overcome the problem?
Thanks


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PAINTERS!!!:furious:


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Masterplaster said:


> Has any one had this issue or have a way to overcome the problem?
> Thanks


Ya, do it right the first time :thumbsup:
They didn't pay for the level of finish that the lid needed, and you saw the possible problem so...
To give you a good answer, need to know a few things. Sprayed or rolled/backrolled paint? Paper or mesh :whistling2: 3 coats on all joints/screws? 

Pretty much anywhere light is a concern, walls that shine up sunup or sundown, or as you have with fixtures, need a little more attention. We 3 coat all of our joints/beads because the expectation of lvl 4 isn't what it used to be. Also, LEDs are just as bad as natural light... if not worse.

If you finished it to your contract, then you "could" T&M the fix. You did mention level 5'ing it as a precaution, so you would be in the right.

*The fix is skim all flashing joints again, hit screws


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Gday Masterplaster. AWCI has some helpful info that you can show the builder. We all know that a level 5 finish is required in a lot of cases, but the tight wad builders wont pay for it and then cry foul when it is not perfect.:furious:
Hope this helps.

http://www.awci.org.au/docs/page/4/294/378/Levels of Finish - Plasterboard Expectations.pdf

http://www.awci.org.au/cgi-bin/page.cgi?id=159


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Critical lighting requires a level 5 finish, which you didn't get paid for. Explain to the contractor and see what he wants to do.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

"I'd love to fix it for you, as soon as you pay me for the work to date."

"Oh, and hey....remember when I suggested that we run a L5 on it? This is precisely why...."

HOWEVER.........it's also up to you, as the expert, to sometimes be forceful about the level of finish required. It's your reputation, and you can do with it what you like, but in some scenarios it's best to walk away if people aren't willing to spend the money to make it right. I guess it's all about reading the client......


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Masterplaster said:


> Hi all, recently did a curved ceiling, builder was very pleased with finished product as was I.
> When the job was quoted I suggested that it should probably be level 5. They were not interested.
> Now led lighting has gone in and you can see every joint and screw hole and they ring me and say what are you going to do about it?
> Still owe me ten grand, ceiling is painted.
> ...


Their decision. Their responsibility.

I spent the last couple days level 5ing the walls on a floor in a new office building where a company is moving some of their operations into. Lots of glass throughout, so lots of sun. 

They came to understand better the value of level 5ing when we renoed some floors for them in an older building. They had some walls level 5ed, and others they didn't. With all the natural lighting pumping into that building, including sun reflecting off surrounding glass buildings as the sun swung, the difference was at times noticeable.

But they paid. It was their choice and they decided the way they decided. Their responsibility.

Now they want even the backsides of coat closets, that have a seam created from 2 standups at the back of them, to be level 5ed. A bit of overkill I'm thinking, but.......


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Their decision. Their responsibility.
> 
> I spent the last couple days level 5ing the walls on a floor in a new office building where a company is moving some of their operations into. Lots of glass throughout, so lots of sun.
> 
> ...


 Stand ups :furious:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> Stand ups :furious:


Pretty well the whole place. I've learned how to deal with them.

Problem is, the guys who did much of the work - before I came in and did some of the sanding and then level 5ing - got some things a little wrong, especially with some of their sanding on some of the joints.

It'll get dealt with, on check out. At least I hope so. I'm off to a new job next week - more stand ups - but told the field supervisor what areas to watch out especially for.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Standups are great fun :thumbsup: Especialy when the hangers screw to the soft side of the stud first and tweak it all to hell when onesiding.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

OK...correct me if I'm Wrong ..but it is the boarder/hangers job to eliminate as many butt joints as possible ..Stand ups are BS! I had rather have 3 seams than have to deal with 1 butt..It makes for a better finish! If it's the point that we don't have enough rock....call me! I walked through a home today counted 5 stand ups with wide rips laying all over the floor...WHY! cause it's easier for them ! than to 48 or 54 it...uggg!!!:furious:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> OK...correct me if I'm Wrong ..but it is the boarder/hangers job to eliminate as many butt joints as possible ..Stand ups are BS! I had rather have 3 seams than have to deal with 1 butt..It makes for a better finish! If it's the point that we don't have enough rock....call me! I walked through a home today counted 5 stand ups with wide rips laying all over the floor...WHY! cause it's easier for them ! than to 48 or 54 it...uggg!!!:furious:


Not sure if we're seeing things the same. With stand ups, butt joints are eliminated in our commercial work when the ceilings are placed low enough.

But with stud twisting, as Phil was mentioning, the stand up joints can end up being like long butt-like joints to deal with. Get a fair share of those.


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## New-Level-Drywall (Feb 23, 2013)

Good lighting makes bad drywall. On future projects buy a five gallon bucket of Ruco equaliser and pay the painter 75.00 to spray any walls getting direct light. Problem solved....


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

It doesn't take that long to level 5 1 barrel ceiling. Don't give them the option.Just include the level 5 in your bid!:thumbsup:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

My system to finish a barrel ceiling.

Tape + 2 coats on everything.

Roll on thin layer of mud and lightly wipe down with squeegee knife on a pole.

rough sand with black widow.

Roll again and wipe down tight with 10" knife on pole. 

Finish sand with black widow.

= PERFECT CEILING :yes:


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## New-Level-Drywall (Feb 23, 2013)

Muddauber said:


> My system to finish a barrel ceiling.
> 
> Tape + 2 coats on everything.
> 
> ...


Id love to charge for LV5 but know one will pay for it.... I like the Ruco equalizer its a good product.


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## Red taper (Feb 15, 2013)

Last post was close, but why not just tape, 3 coat everything then , sand and roll your ceiling and be a real level 5.? Like in your gypsum specs book.


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## Red taper (Feb 15, 2013)

Just messing with ya, painters suck.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

If your a boarder it is absolutley your job to eliminate buttjoints. 

No stand ups on walls more than 44", but if the board is running out at the end of a job well I gotta go so sorry i'll explain when we see eachother on the next one.

While your stacking that mud and bead into my unit lol.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

New-Level-Drywall said:


> Id love to charge for LV5 but know one will pay for it.... I like the Ruco equalizer its a good product.


Gotta use the Ruco equalizer Plus if you want a level 5. The standard equalizer is just a high build primer which isn't rated for a level 5 finish. We used to do a lot of jobs about 6 years ago spraying the equalizer plus.


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