# Timber Frame Houses



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

What kind of methods have you guys experimented with in timber frames? I'm talking about where the rock meets the beams/posts, and since most of them are cut while green you just know they're going to move and cause some cracking. I'm thinking about one sided expansion joints, and wondering what you fellas have come up with as bullet proof solutions (chinking, caulk, L-beads, etc.)


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Pull away or tear away L bead is what I have used. There will always be a clean finished gap between the board edge and the timber. Pull away is a little better for this than tear away because you can always put the strip back if you need to cut in without putting paint on the beam accidentally. Keep the board edge 1/8th" back from the timber and it'll install fine.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I hadn't thought to use the pull away, in fact I've never used that product but I saw it in my trim-tex sample pack. I was going to use zip-strip, but I wondered if anyone had any new suggestions , and pull away is certainly that! Thank you for the input


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

I would leave a good 1/4" gap that pullaway is thicker and can be a real pain if you have to cut back rock:furious: can you say bloody knuckles


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Cazna might be the man to ask, he just used a trim called negative detail? where it gives the board a square edge then leaves a gap between the board and the timber, kind of a Z shape.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Cazna might be the man to ask, he just used a trim called negative detail? where it gives the board a square edge then leaves a gap between the board and the timber, kind of a Z shape.


 
I used this trim, The one at the bottom of this page.
http://www.gib.co.nz/gib-goldline-platinum-l-trims-reveals/

You keep the wallboard back about 14mm then put this trim on and push it against the beam best you can, The beam can move and do what it wants, this trim only sits upto it and leave a nice clean edge, Looks a little different, some like it some dont, Didnt 2buck post a tread on another way to do this with paper tape?? What thread was that??


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

cazna said:


> I used this trim, The one at the bottom of this page.
> http://www.gib.co.nz/gib-goldline-platinum-l-trims-reveals/
> 
> You keep the wallboard back about 14mm then put this trim on and push it against the beam best you can, The beam can move and do what it wants, this trim only sits upto it and leave a nice clean edge, Looks a little different, some like it some dont, Didnt 2buck post a tread on another way to do this with paper tape?? What thread was that??


I think 2Bucks was more of using paper tape also as your masking surface when flat taping. I've finished up next to a bajillion beams with flat tape and L-beads, but I'm looking for something new and improved....something that stands less chance of failure and cracking when the building moves. I like the shadow bead idea...that's sort of where I'm heading with it, or something like a one sided expansion joint that will actually compress if the timbers move.


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

I'm only comfortable using L-bead or tearway if the timber is dead straight and dry. Otherwise I flat tape with mesh and confil- finish - then knife a small control joint. If there is any movement it's an easy patch versus digging out popped bead. Works especially well up against brick and blockwork, just mask with tuck tape instead of painters tape.

It's unpredictable when the timbers are green, best to let the customer know to expect touch-ups down the track as part of owning that kind of home.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

If anyone is worried about movement, most timbers are made from chosen woods like Douglas Fir, spruce, cypress or red cedar that are advertised to shrink very little from green. Go ahead; tape dangerously.

Log homes are a different story.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> Go ahead; tape dangerously.


:laughing: That's a good one!

The job I'm on right now has some hand hewn logs, and I left some room for zip bead but the gap is horrendous (trying to maintain a relatively straight line for the bead.) I'm in luck though, I'm pretty sure they're going to ***** it :thumbsup: Otherwise, Ultra-fill with adhesive.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

*Shrinkage*



Bevelation said:


> If anyone is worried about movement, most timbers are made from chosen woods like Douglas Fir, spruce, cypress or red cedar that are advertised to shrink very little from green. Go ahead; tape dangerously.
> 
> Log homes are a different story.


Ha - dont believe the advertising - Fir and cedar are the choices here and when you put in "green" wood it will shrink.


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