# What is acceptable 2?



## SQLPNC (Sep 22, 2018)

Had the drywall hung in a large addition to our house yesterday; I've got some issues that I think need to be fixed before the contractor starts to finish; Would appreciate your feedback.

Outside corners, pictures attached; Is there any way to get a straight, durable outside corner when both sides of the drywall stops at the corner of the stud?; This leaves a 1/2" x 1/2"; I cant think of any.

Joints over doors, pictures attached; I've got to believe that the joints over the two doors will crack; I specifically marked where to break the top piece of drywall over the rough opening to be at the other side of the room and reviewed this with the crew; I also asked that they run a full 54" piece of drywall over the metal door.

Inside corner screwed only at stud 5" from corner; When I asked about this they said there was no stud at the corner; I framed the house, and was pretty sure that was not the case; Punched a keyhole saw through the drywall, and yes there is a stud there; It is, however, about 5/16" behind the line of the rest of the wall; If they had brought this up when they hung the top sheet, I would have asked them to take the sheet down, and I would run a fat bead of construction adhesive along that corner nailer; Then I would add screws the next day; I feel pretty certain that this corner will crack with the drywall not tied into the corner; Am I wrong?

I did hang drywall for a while on commercial projects in NE Ohio in the 1980s.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bill


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

Those corners are set about right for bull nose beads. Get some Trim Tex bull nose and you will have the "strongest beads on the planet"! :thumbup:


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

And if you want square corners just fill them full of mud and the void will go away.


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## SQLPNC (Sep 22, 2018)

*Square corners...*

I do want square corners, but I want straight, durable corners.

Bill


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

MrWillys said:


> And if you want square corners just fill them full of mud and the void will go away.


Yeah, I'm with Mr Willys on this one. (A safe place to be, because he is well-versed in all things drywall!)

On the rare occasion I'm faced with this, I just fill in the corner with Durabond and proceed as normal. :thumbup:

Knowing I'm not perfect, (I'm sure the painters cover for me sometimes), I try not to get too grumpy about such things. :whistling2: However, if it happens too often, I will remind the hangers how I won't the drywall to overlap. :yes:


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

SQLPNC said:


> I do want square corners, but I want straight, durable corners.
> 
> Bill


Fill the void with Durabond and the corner will be very durable! :yes:


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## SQLPNC (Sep 22, 2018)

Thanks guys. Durabond would work.

But, I just put a 6' straight edge on the 3 corners in question. Each had a bulge. The first piece of drywall installed stuck past the corner stud holding the second layer off the stud at that point.


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

SQLPNC said:


> Thanks guys. Durabond would work.
> 
> But, I just put a 6' straight edge on the 3 corners in question. Each had a bulge. The first piece of drywall installed stuck past the corner stud holding the second layer off the stud at that point.


Trim the bulge back, screw the other sheet tight to the stud, then fill the void with Durabond.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Use TrimTex mud set bead. They have an I beam in the back of the bead and you are required to leave a void when hanging the board. They can be straightened easily, and you will never find a stronger corner.


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## SQLPNC (Sep 22, 2018)

gazman said:


> Use TrimTex mud set bead. They have an I beam in the back of the bead and you are required to leave a void when hanging the board. They can be straightened easily, and you will never find a stronger corner.


Gazman, I just looked at the TrimTex specs:

Mud Set Rigid: no setback required

Low Profile Rigid: no setback required

Rigid Jumbo: minimal setback

Corner Bead: 1/8 setback for 350 bull

Anyway, I reworked the corners. Shaved the first sheet flush with corner of stud. Second sheet stops just shy of the face of the first sheet. Corners checked out straight with a 6' straight edge.

I also rehung the drywall at the metal door with a 54" sheet over the door notched for the door (no joints at the top corners of the door).

And rehung the piece over the door rough opening that was only 4" from the corner of the rough opening so that the joint was in the center of the rough opening.

These hangers missed framing members a lot. I feel certain that they do not save any time by not marking studs, ceiling joists. Not to mention the extra work they leave for the finisher.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

SQLPNC said:


> Thanks guys. Durabond would work.
> 
> But, I just put a 6' straight edge on the 3 corners in question. Each had a bulge. The first piece of drywall installed stuck past the corner stud holding the second layer off the stud at that point.


 The corner will straighten out any small bulge. It's just drywall and you're trying to make it cabinets.


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## endo_alley_revisited (Aug 9, 2016)

Might be a crooked corner stud. I hate crooked corner bead also. If the posting party really wanted a straight wall he (she) might consider shimming the wall prior to drywall install. If bowed corner stud remove sheetrock at crown and power plane bad stud. Or back out screws and shim it straight. But beware that shimming a bad corner may create a bowed floor line or ceiling angle which will then have to be addressed.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

MrWillys said:


> SQLPNC said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks guys. Durabond would work.
> ...


I would agree. 

The poster asked what was acceptable. I would say that from a finishers perspective that is all acceptable. Personally I would do some things different myself, but if everything was hung to perfect standards hangers would have to double their price.
One more thing. Regarding screws in the corners, if you can avoid putting screws within five inches of any corner that is a good thing! Primarily ceiling/wall angles. The aforementioned corner with the crooked stud shouldn't have had screws in it and the hangers aren't expected to be framers, especially when it would be pointless anyway.


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