# Imbedding tapes with Fast set(hotmud,quick set, ect)



## DN Interiors (Mar 11, 2013)

Lately because of some back and shoulder problems from a car accident, I've only been accepting small to medium jobs.
Anything from general repairs to small additions, bathrooms, small basements, ect. 

Anything that I can use 8ft sheets only, and do mostly stand ups.

Now as for the finishing, well it's obviously impractical to have to come and go only working a few hours a day while waiting for mud to dry, especially when small jobs only carry small values.

So, I've began working with fast-setting compounds, this way I can tape, do 2 coats with fast-set, sand/smudge it down smooth with a rough screen, then apply a lite finish compound, turn some fans on and let it all dry and cure for a couple days before I return to sand. Effectively turning a multi-trip job into a 2 trip job.

Problem is, the fast setting compound I'm using just doesn't have the same adhesion as yellow taping mud, getting some bubbles here and there, was thinking of adding a bottle of white glue into the fast set, or even doing a 50/50 mix of taping mud/fast set, if that would even work?

Is there a fast-setting compound I could look for that is formulated for strong adhesion, the way yellow mud is?


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

my trick is one coat with sheetrock with one side angle. i put the second coat with all purpose mud and the other side angle to.put a heater for the night.
the next day i put my finish coat and i skimm my angle with the sheetrock. put some fan. drink a coffee and i sand. for my is the best way. 2 day job.

you can mixt 60 sheetrock\ 40 all purpose. is more easy .


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

DN Interiors said:


> Lately because of some back and shoulder problems from a car accident, I've only been accepting small to medium jobs.
> Anything from general repairs to small additions, bathrooms, small basements, ect.
> 
> Anything that I can use 8ft sheets only, and do mostly stand ups.
> ...


Durabond is the stuff ya want,

We had no yellow one day at my brothers house, I bought white glue went with a quarter cup to a box AP, let me tell ya it dryed on me hands and arms took a longer time to wash :blink:


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

are you using regular paper tape ?? just got my hands on some fiba fuse tape and used that with 45 min. hot mud.

for your tape coat mix it really thin....when that batch starts to get thick go back and use it up for your fill coat. then once my fill coat is set I top it with pre mix mud. 

really like the fiba fuse other than my hands getting itchy !! 

look up the topic on here on the fiba fuse and read down through it


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

tape for butt joint and angle and mesh for flat.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

killerjune said:


> tape for butt joint and angle and mesh for flat.


 Yup. I will give some pics if you want. i started a condo today. its gonna be brutal for taping this week. Temps expected in the low negative teens. Durabond 90, a scoop of AP and a few ounces of wood glue. Plan is to get everything built ( flats, butts and bead) mesh for flats and paper butts and angles. 1st coat all 90. Second coat bead, butts and angles AP mudd with a cup full of durabond. Finish coat with Plus 3. All screws done with plus3. Should be ready for paint on Fri.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

DN Interiors said:


> getting some bubbles here and there


Fast setting.not fast drying! 

Hot mud or A/P The rules are the same . Each coat needs to CURE before the next coat is applied . Those bubbles are a sign that your putting mud over a coat that has not completely cured yet. Just because It turns white don't mean It's dry!


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I would say durabond is the best but now I use ez sand 45 with mudmax glue...works great and now I don't even use mud on my tape coat:blink: shhh I have a new trick


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Make sure to run fans and a dehumidifier. 
Fast setting compound still needs time, air, and heat to cure. Like I was saying build a base with durabond then finish with ap. The trick is to make sure everything is dry before starting the next coat. i guess it would make a difference on what your doing. Small rooms and marriage lines in modulars I use 5 minute to prefill then 20 minute to tape and second coat. If you have 24 hours to set up use 45 or 90.


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## DN Interiors (Mar 11, 2013)

moore said:


> Fast setting.not fast drying!
> 
> Hot mud or A/P The rules are the same . Each coat needs to CURE before the next coat is applied . Those bubbles are a sign that your putting mud over a coat that has not completely cured yet. Just because It turns white don't mean It's dry!


 I should have clarified, the bubbles are the tapes loosening from the drywall, just in spots where I may have wiped a little too tight. But with yellow mud I could wipe the tapes even tighter and still would never have adhesion issues.

If I tape with yellow mud the first day. Then do my 2 coats with fast-set, then top it with premix, the second day, then sand whens it's all cured, I never have any issues. But then that's a 3 trip job instead of 2.

What your saying about waiting for each coat to cure before the next coat, doesn't that defeat the advantages of using fast set in the first place?


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## DN Interiors (Mar 11, 2013)

killerjune said:


> tape for butt joint and angle and mesh for flat.


 I don't use mesh, problems I had with mesh was the little fibers sticking up and showing through my finish in some places, this was a lot of years ago, maybe the fiber tapes today are better, I don't know.
But curious, I know why paper on angles, but why on butts?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

DN Interiors said:


> What your saying about waiting for each coat to cure before the next coat, doesn't that defeat the advantages of using fast set in the first place?


fast set tape coat can endure very harsh measures And conditions. an A/P tape coat cannot ! JMO!


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

DN Interiors said:


> I don't use mesh, problems I had with mesh was the little fibers sticking up and showing through my finish in some places, this was a lot of years ago, maybe the fiber tapes today are better, I don't know.
> But curious, I know why paper on angles, but why on butts?


 I like paper on my butts. Rule of thumb for mesh is if theres a gap then it needs to be prefilled. My rockers leave a small gap on the butts so I use paper. Saves me from prefilling and any worries down the road. I only use fibertape ultra thin. Just on flats and always with quickset. Also note that rock is screwed into metal high hat with rubber sound proofing clips. Been using this system at some condos I have been working at for the past 3 years. So far no problems and we have already repainted a few and it really seams to be working. Kinda goeas like this . day 1 mesh and coat flats. tape all angles with app 90 mix. Install and coat bead. day2 hit butts bead and angles. day3 Ap all butts flats angles and bead. Day 4 sand and prime. Really a good system for small jobs 6000 ft or less. One guy should be able to get 1 unit a week done and paid.


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