# Raising the Cielings



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

<P>Ok this is the project That I used the 2 hp vacume on to remove the insulation . Next step is to reinforce all the rafters and raise the cielings, </P>


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Just a few more pictures,


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Cool man! Seems like a sweet project!
That should keep you busy for a little while.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Just read the other thread, I guess you want some advice? What are you looking to do?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

What's your insulation plan? 

If you're looking to reinforce the existing rafters, I'd sister some 2x6 to them, which would make for a pretty bomber assembly. I think you could get away without modifying the hip rafters, especially if you tried to fasten the 2x6s to the rafter and each other. Local building code will tell you what you can get away with (if you pulled a permit). If you went with 2x8 you could get a lot of insulation in there, and would only have to fur down the hip rafters with 2x2 material.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

You half to incorporate some reveal beads in your ceiling, that would look awesome:thumbup:

Then do your ceilings in venation plaster, make it look like there's marble on your walls or ceilings.

Chicks will dig it, they will think your rich:thumbup:...... hold it, maybe don't do that:blink:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I plan on lifting the cielings some 9 or 10 ft. But untill I get the rafters more secure I won't know the max highth I can go.

I do plan on using all the 2x6 joist to sister the rafters If you notice they are spliced. And yes I will try to do something different on the cielings. as far as design goes. 

Slim Insulation will be of bi8g improtance. due to the brand new metal roof it has. I put the roof on and at that time I was not planing on rasing the cielings. Thanks everyone .P.S. Slim Shhhhh... on the permit Ha !


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Slim touched a good point ..Room for insulation and venilation.
Is it a metal roof?


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

moore said:


> Slim touched a good point ..Room for insulation and venilation.
> Is it a metal roof?


 Yes it is Metal Just recently installed. best grade I could get. Yes Sllim is on track. Sister exsiting rafters with 2x6 joists that I have removed, Then add 2x8 so I can rake up to a flat 9 or 10 ft


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> Slim touched a good point ..Room for insulation and venilation.
> Is it a metal roof?


Spray foam insulation all the way:thumbup:, the kit is not too bad in price

Your more concerned about heat right, you don't get snow where you live do you:blink:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Spray foam insulation all the way:thumbup:, the kit is not too bad in price
> 
> Your more concerned about heat right, you don't get snow where you live do you:blink:


 Yes Heat and sound. and yes we do get sonw here. and some bad ice storms from time to time. I don't have to worry about ice dams on the roof and I am tring to prevent any vent pipes going through the roof as well. All shingles have been removed and I installed a weather proof wrap before metal went on . Installing the metal was too big of a job for me to do by myself. so I hired it out. I just did the prep


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> I plan on lifting the cielings some 9 or 10 ft. But untill I get the rafters more secure I won't know the max highth I can go.
> 
> I do plan on using all the 2x6 joist to sister the rafters If you notice they are spliced. And yes I will try to do something different on the cielings. as far as design goes.
> 
> Slim Insulation will be of bi8g improtance. due to the brand new metal roof it has. I put the roof on and at that time I was not planing on rasing the cielings. Thanks everyone .P.S. Slim Shhhhh... on the permit Ha !


So you're going to have a flat ceiling at 9 or 10'? Perfect! Your flat ceiling joists will be your collar ties, tying the whole thing together to help prevent wall spreading under load. 

My suggestion was also going to be spray foam, but here's the kicker....run 1x4s perpendicular to rafters and then foam (only in the area getting rock, and only on the rakes just in case I'm not being clear). You'll get an extra inch of R-value, and drastically reduce thermal bridging. If I were you, I'd try and hit my flat ceiling below those splices if possible, maybe even trying to cut the above section at an angle so it would rest on your flat ceiling joist (shim it to get it tight)....then, not only is it nailed to the other piece of rafter, it has structural support below taking some of the stress off of the splice. I saw those splices and had a little yucky feeling inside. Looks like a fun project! I didn't notice any hurricane clips on the rafters at the top plate, do you get tornadoes there? They're a pretty good idea if you're subject to high winds.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

I was actually thinking of using Metal perpendicular to the rafters , I have alot left over from a project. Biggest problem with the splices There not all along the same area.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> I was actually thinking of using Metal perpendicular to the rafters , I have alot left over from a project. Biggest problem with the splices There not all along the same area.


Metal will work, as long as you're insulated really well. If you're not venting (and are underinsulated) the metal can be an area of condensation, and no one likes water/mold hanging out in their ceiling:no:

So, my thought on the spliced areas would be to sister 2x6 to both sides, enough to make it just look like two rafters side by side. Then some web straps (the metal connectors on manufactured trusses) at the joints (both sides)should suffice. I'm guessing that you don't get major snow loads in Oklahoma........


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Metal will work, as long as you're insulated really well. If you're not venting (and are underinsulated) the metal can be an area of condensation, and no one likes water/mold hanging out in their ceiling:no:
> 
> So, my thought on the spliced areas would be to sister 2x6 to both sides, enough to make it just look like two rafters side by side. Then some web straps (the metal connectors on manufactured trusses) at the joints (both sides)should suffice. I'm guessing that you don't get major snow loads in Oklahoma........


The Home was built 1950 , so it has held up to some major snow storms in the past, We just don't get the snow as much these days.
And yes I was looking into the strapping material 
My only concern right now is making sure the extieror walls are secure , Going over soon to take pictures of the roof outside. Thanks again , :thumbsup:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Outside view of new roof I could feed alot of sheep with as much clover I have in the yard


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Nice place betterdrywall !

I personally would have to sub out the framing. I couldn't put together a pre-fabbed doghouse. :blink:

And I love the look of a fresh metal roof !


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> Nice place betterdrywall !
> 
> I personally would have to sub out the framing. I couldn't put together a pre-fabbed doghouse. :blink:
> 
> And I love the look of a fresh metal roof !


Metal is the way to go . Last hail storm we had ,, just this past week tore up a bunch of homes 80 mph wind gust. we had gust up to 60 at this location, no problems at all. 
I am not an expert framer but I can make the cuts I need, Just have to reseach tech issues. I think I have come up with a solution to fix everything. I may not be as fast but I am a sight better than the slop framers out there .


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Looks like I have my hands full today.. Checked the south wall and it is slightly bowed out. Not sure how long it has been that way. Breaking out the tape measure and level today. Both will be well used. Did someone say this looks like Fun? Ha ! yeah it is fun project. Just be happy when I can finally get to cutting wood like a beaver . Take Care all. will post some more progress pictures this evening.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

sorry guys no updates yet,,, still working out the framing,,, After looking over some new homes ,,I feel alot better about this project, framing is really not bad at all ..


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

You better check your local codes. What you are doing would never pass here. I believe you can only move your ceiling up 1/3 of the span of your top cord. Those diagonal braces are in there for a reason.

As mentioned you need to worry about downward pressure on the roof and the walls pushing out.

scott


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> You better check your local codes. What you are doing would never pass here. I believe you can only move your ceiling up 1/3 of the span of your top cord. Those diagonal braces are in there for a reason.
> 
> As mentioned you need to worry about downward pressure on the roof and the walls pushing out.
> 
> scott


Scott the downward pressure is of my main concern, I only want to go up 1 or 2 foot if I can. Right now I am going up as high as I can with studs then placing in additional braces, It will actually have more bracing than before. The joist I removed were not doing much at all. some even shattered during removal. Wood is very Dry. 

I have also done as Slim suggested fixing the fixing the rafters by doubling up.. Take Care and Thanks again


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

alittle more progress today,, had to bring in some extra help


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

A few more from today,, Temp 102 F,,,,, smokin hot days on the jobsite,,


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Leadman Shawn,, Workin Hard..


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Almost finished,, may take the weekend to get final cleanup done,, Clipped the master and 2nd bdrm up to 10 ft. dining room and a few other areas is all that is left to finish. Been working pretty hard in this heat. take some more pictures soon after final cleanup.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

was thinking about using this bead for all the cielings ,may even run it on all the angles through out the house. was wondering if there was any photos of this bead finished or video .http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=showproduct&id=239


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

few more pictures getting close to a wrap, still some punchout to do


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Den and Living room is same 16 inch lvl 12 inch lvl for dining and kitchen, went up 10 ft on entry and the two main bedrooms. I have decided to go all 5/8 sheetrock. Right now I an tring to decide if I should go with 3/4 round only or break it up with 3/4 and 1 1/2 bullnose.Pretty sure it will get a Slimpickins texture. Also lighting ,rope lighting placement.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

This is the last part of the framing. new front porch.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> This is the last part of the framing. new front porch.


So................. how many sheep will you be able to get on your front porch :whistling2:


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> So................. how many sheep will you be able to get on your front porch :whistling2:


 Not any at all,, the Bull next door would have a fit.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Looks like fun:thumbsup: What is a slimpickens texture? Just curious


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

chris said:


> Looks like fun:thumbsup: What is a slimpickens texture? Just curious


Yeah....what IS a Slimpickins texture? I feel like I should definitely know this one!


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

It's a highly secret texture finish,, well gaurded by the drywall gods,,, Ha!

Anyhoo Looks like Uncle Sam is going to put the breaks on this project for awhile. 
Dayum Taxes are going to wipe me out this year. Dayum CPA!! really not happy with my CPA at all. changing to a new one this month. Oh well there is still lots for me to do to keep it going. concentrate on all the little stuff that doesn't cost a whole lot of beans.


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