# Unheated garage tape cracking - can it be improved upon?



## dokmand (Jan 25, 2016)

Re-taped and mudded a garage 17 yrs old. Originally it was builder fire-taped only, never painted. Removed all old tape and almost all the compound (wrinkled from the start, and cracked). Tightened existing screws and doubled them up (max 3" spacing) using 3" screws. 5/8" ceiling board, 24" OC truss spacing and 1/2" on the wall, 16" OC. Used paper tape, filled gap with 90 min Durabond, embedded tape with same, 2nd coat also with Durabond, topped with GP premix and in some cases Topping Compound if needed. Re-taped in summer (Mich). 
Garage is 3 1/2 + car with 14 ft ceilings. No expansion joints. Had garages crack before using only GP (green lid) mud so I switched to Durabond for improved adhesion. After I was done, owner primed 1/2 the garage before winter set in. Crack in painted and unpainted board. Developed some ceiling cracks (fine cracks don't appear to have torn the tape, just the mud, from a couple that I checked, but I didn't scrape down many spots (will revisit in spring). Most cracks are perpendicular to the truss direction. I didn't go in the attic to backboard, but may have to if the customer wants to pay for it. Have a couple cracks in the walls (big one 20 ft long on the back wall 8ft off the ground, believe there's a header at that point), and on the small section of wall between the single garage door and the double door (3 ft wall). 
Is this a problem correctable by adding backer boards over all joints (ceiling is accessible only). or is this a no win situation, trying to make an unconditioned space perfect? Could it be insufficient gap between the adjoining drywall boards - some fits were line to line? Don't want to get the scaffolding out if its a no win effort, regardless what the homeowner wants to pay.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Hire a Drywall Contractor to fix it!

And don't bitch about the price! Just pay the man.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

This summer I did an unheated garage for my brother with 4 x8 plywood then ripped some 1 x 6 pine for baton strips and crown. He is kind of anal about washing his vehicles so next SUMMER we are going to oil prime then finish with a waterbourne epoxy. For now he just uses a propane heater but he is looking into getting a monitor. Honestly one of the best ideas of how to get out of taping and a long term solution I ever had. On the plus side it looks sweet.


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## dokmand (Jan 25, 2016)

My friend is going to finish his own garage and was contemplating using OSB under drywall in the garage to eliminate future cracks, or maybe just leave the OSB painted if he gets lazy, but baton straps could dress it up. That's a nice idea, Unfortunately that wont work for me.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I think the point I was trying to make is that your wasting your time with the 17 year old rock that's only been fire taped and left in the cold. Time to demo and start over.


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## dokmand (Jan 25, 2016)

Was fire taped but I replaced everything as noted, but I understand your point. Either demo or live with it. Thanks


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## IsantiDrywall (Feb 2, 2016)

boco said:


> I think the point I was trying to make is that your wasting your time with the 17 year old rock that's only been fire taped and left in the cold. Time to demo and start over.


:clap::clap::clap::clap:

Pretty much summed it up here.


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## bellas taper (Feb 2, 2016)

Maybe you should try the 20 minute dry mix and coat over after you cut a small v groove out. You can also use the 90 minute and I usually add some regular spackle to the mix extend the life of the working time


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

You are fighting a losing battle. Almost every house we do is an elevated design where the first floor is over the garage. They are always unheated and always crack regardless of what you do. We have glued them, double screwed, taped with durabond, second coat with durabond to no avail... We have some builders out near the beaches that just hang hardi board in the garage and another that just puts vinyl siding over the drywall.... Only thing I can think of is to put expansion bead every so often to help. But I think in our situation it still wouldn't help.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

thefinisher said:


> You are fighting a losing battle. Almost every house we do is an elevated design where the first floor is over the garage. They are always unheated and always crack regardless of what you do. We have glued them, double screwed, taped with durabond, second coat with durabond to no avail... We have some builders out near the beaches that just hang hardi board in the garage and another that just puts vinyl siding over the drywall.... Only thing I can think of is to put expansion bead every so often to help. But I think in our situation it still wouldn't help.


just curious TF, have you tried backblocking the joints? It is part of our regs over here. Any ceiling that has three joins or more must be backblocked. BTW backblocking is glueing strips of board to the back of the joint with a setting mud, these are about 8 to 10 inches with and long enough to give a small bit of clearance between the trusses.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> You are fighting a losing battle. Almost every house we do is an elevated design where the first floor is over the garage. They are always unheated and always crack regardless of what you do. We have glued them, double screwed, taped with durabond, second coat with durabond to no avail... We have some builders out near the beaches that just hang hardi board in the garage and another that just puts vinyl siding over the drywall.... Only thing I can think of is to put expansion bead every so often to help. But I think in our situation it still wouldn't help.


Time between each coat for cure is key! Busting through like a mad man in half the time it should take will always end with problems .. I agree tho...Any home without controlled air is a problem.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Moore most of the year it is really hot so the tape will completely cure in less than 24 hours which is good for keeping a tight schedule. If it gets under 65 degrees we tape with 210 minute durabond. Rock hard in 4 or 5 hours. I know it's a band aid but it does help with production. The next coats dry much quicker when we tape with durabond also. These elevated houses are a pain though especially if they use i-joists... those things transfer a ton of vibration. Been thinking about just hanging them and coming back to finish after all the floors and what not get put in.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

I can guarantee you guys even with vibration as an issue rondo rubber mount sound clips. ....followed by battons cross bracing the timber.....back blocked joins fiber fuse or paper tape and 2 coats of hot mud with a final of top i give her lifetime guarantee


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

If no vibration just metal battons cross bracing


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

embella plaster said:


> I can guarantee you guys even with vibration as an issue rondo rubber mount sound clips. ....followed by battons cross bracing the timber.....back blocked joins fiber fuse or paper tape and 2 coats of hot mud with a final of top i give her lifetime guarantee


Son ! I don't care what your process or methods are!! There are and will never be a lifetime guarantee in drywall.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Gaz would have my back.....dont get me wrong things can go wrong moisture....extreme weights and sagging....if it built right ut can last


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

90 min hot mud tape . I hit each side of the butts as I went.

I waited One hour then put a light block over the seams with 90min. After that I'll finish the rest out with A/P.

It should hold up for a few years!! :yes:..I point at the bucket and tell them to read that chit!!

If I preached to every G/C that without heat I wont work...I wouldn't work! Fact Is ...If I don't do It somebody else will.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Love your work more


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