# Basement - Greenboard or regular??



## 1/2 irish

:icon_confused: I have always been leary on what to use to sheetrock a finished basement. I have a customer that has a basement w/ only those tiny basement windows and a bulkhead exit, not much air flow. This basement has nevered had a water problem, ever. Should I convince the homeowners to use the Greenboard/Mold Resistence sheetrock or just go w/ the regular type? Advanced thank you for responses & advices.


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## vvdrywall

I would consider using Dens Armor Plus over greenboard. More of a true water resistent product. The material would cost more than green board but better results.


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## smisner50s

I use steel studs 20 ga 5/8 rock in basements if the is heat and no water issuses everything will be fine..if there is water problems than shouldent even be doing the basement...densarmor plus is good stuff no mold will grow because it has no paper on it .it a fiberglass .does require a level 5 finish to fill the glass.but sucks to hang because of fiberglass .i got a building with 11000 sq feet of that to hang and finsh and 21000sq feet of 5/8 fire code rock


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## A1rocker

dens armor,regular dens glass will work in a pinch .Main thing is leave rock 1/2inch off floor


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## SlimPickins

M2Tech claims that the purple rock can sit in water for an hour and only take on 5% water....that's a pretty big claim. Green board is on its way out here...to many mold issues. If the basement is dry, there's not too much to worry about. I don't know about the glass faced rock, except they're claiming that you can use on interiors that haven't been dried in yet.


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## smisner50s

here are a few pic of a basement frameout i have been working on .i have been doing it on the side .20ga steel studs 5/8 rock .drop ceiling .hand finished tounge and grove plank floor level 5 sprayable surficer s.w.p. bar .its a nice set up i have done all the work ect electrial ..getting close to being done still have to rock bathroom. thinking about putting raised pannels in there using double rock and trimtex champer bead .:thumbup:


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## carpentaper

look at you fancy vacuum saw guy. that's so considerate.


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## smisner50s

damn skippy i am


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## 2buckcanuck

hey,thats my living room floor
Looks great smisner,your one busy man,looks like you put the bar into use too,those beer cans on it,lol
Damn,I got to get me a camera,my 15 year old daughter won't lend me her camera I bought her.she says I will break it.....teenagers:furious:


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## smisner50s

bought my wife a camera she said i couldent take it on job sits .so i bought a new one for myself..she says you could of just used mine....now when we go somewhere she takes my new on .i cant understand her.....:blink:


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## moore

smisner50s said:


> here are a few pic of a basement frameout i have been working on .i have been doing it on the side .20ga steel studs 5/8 rock .drop ceiling .hand finished tounge and grove plank floor level 5 sprayable surficer s.w.p. bar .its a nice set up i have done all the work ect electrial ..getting close to being done still have to rock bathroom. thinking about putting raised pannels in there using double rock and trimtex champer bead .:thumbup:


great job misner/ your a pro.


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## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> here are a few pic of a basement frameout i have been working on .i have been doing it on the side .20ga steel studs 5/8 rock .drop ceiling .hand finished tounge and grove plank floor level 5 sprayable surficer s.w.p. bar .its a nice set up i have done all the work ect electrial ..getting close to being done still have to rock bathroom. thinking about putting raised pannels in there using double rock and trimtex champer bead .:thumbup:


Nice work on the basement mister. I'm going to have a grid job coming up soon, and I've never done it. I've done one seismic strut suspended drywall ceiling, but that's it. Is it tough? :frightened smiley:


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## rebel20

smisner50s said:


> bought my wife a camera she said i couldent take it on job sits .so i bought a new one for myself..she says you could of just used mine....now when we go somewhere she takes my new on .i cant understand her.....:blink:


Gee isn't that always how it happens. Same thing happened to me and know I have to ask her to use my own camera.


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## SlimPickins

rebel20 said:


> Gee isn't that always how it happens. Same thing happened to me and know I have to ask her to use my own camera.


You just need to buy a big DSLR, and some big glass....then she'll refuse to use it because it's too big:thumbsup:


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## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> Nice work on the basement mister. I'm going to have a grid job coming up soon, and I've never done it. I've done one seismic strut suspended drywall ceiling, but that's it. Is it tough? :frightened smiley:


Not to hard jest be precise with your masurements.find center and go 12 or 24 inches from center weather you wanted a full tile down the center or a main down the center I also rivit my mains to my wallangle.I use a dewalt selfleveling magnatic laser line level to do all my layout work on drop ceilings.check them out it shoots a verticl and horzental line.


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Nice work on the basement mister. I'm going to have a grid job coming up soon, and I've never done it. I've done one seismic strut suspended drywall ceiling, but that's it. Is it tough? :frightened smiley:


something tells me you will like grid slim .A quick way to find center is to chalk line a "X"from corner to corner of the room on the floor if it is square or rectangular .That way you can figure out weather your going to run 12 or 24 inches off center like smisner said (both ways) .Then you you can work out the pattern on the floor .Then you will know where to put your hangers every 4 feet .Then fire up your track ,use some type laser ,we use to half to use a water level so...put your mains up.....after you do one you will want to do more,you will like doing it :yes:
plus you know where to come now if you run into problems


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> something tells me you will like grid slim .A quick way to find center is to chalk line a "X"from corner to corner of the room on the floor if it is square or rectangular .That way you can figure out weather your going to run 12 or 24 inches off center like smisner said (both ways) .Then you you can work out the pattern on the floor .Then you will know where to put your hangers every 4 feet .Then fire up your track ,use some type laser ,we use to half to use a water level so...put your mains up.....after you do one you will want to do more,you will like doing it :yes:
> plus you know where to come now if you run into problems


Thanks guys for the tips, it does sound almost fun. I enjoy precision, and I just happen to have a PLS180 It seems like the hardest part would be getting the wires to hold the mains at just the right level, because even though you have a laser line to go off of, it seems like bending wires is where you have the greatest chance of screwing it up. At least I think that's where *I* would screw it up:laughing:


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Thanks guys for the tips, it does sound almost fun. I enjoy precision, and I just happen to have a PLS180 It seems like the hardest part would be getting the wires to hold the mains at just the right level, because even though you have a laser line to go off of, it seems like bending wires is where you have the greatest chance of screwing it up. At least I think that's where *I* would screw it up:laughing:


nope,just put every other tile in,stand back look,adjust if needed .the pro grid guys have cool little tools and gadgets to make their life easier .but I doubt they would even pull those toys out for a basement .
there is a certain way your suppose to tie the hanger though:yes::whistling2:


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> nope,just put every other tile in,stand back look,adjust if needed .the pro grid guys have cool little tools and gadgets to make their life easier .but I doubt they would even pull those toys out for a basement .
> there is a certain way your suppose to tie the hanger though:yes::whistling2:


saddle tie?


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## rebel20

Why would anyone use wires to hang a ceiling, I hang them here all the time never had to use a wire. 

rebel


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## SlimPickins

rebel20 said:


> Why would anyone use wires to hang a ceiling, I hang them here all the time never had to use a wire.
> 
> rebel


What do you use?


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## rebel20

It's what they call here a nonus hanger pic with extensions up to 8 feet the drawing is in german but I am sure you will understand it.


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## SlimPickins

rebel20 said:


> It's what they call here a nonus hanger pic with extensions up to 8 feet the drawing is in german but I am sure you will understand it.


I see. That looks like a system that would offer a far greater level of precision and adjust-ability. It also looks like it would be quite a bit more expensive than standard wires, and I can see one of the drawbacks would be that you actually have to get up there and fasten the clips to the deck above? I also see that Rigips doesn't make only Vario


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## smisner50s

this is the exterior entrance to the basement i have been working on rocked it saturday.thinking about shooting it with litex multispec finish.or some drywall raised pannels


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## 1/2 irish

*Why all the double screws??*

Is there a reason for all the double/triple screws on the vertcal boards?? Is it per code?? nline2long:


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## smisner50s

The insulation was stapeled over the stud so I was not able to glue it.so than ill double up on screwing to help prevent pops in wood framing.


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## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> The insulation was stapeled over the stud so I was not able to glue it.so than ill double up on screwing to help prevent pops in wood framing.


Here, we're not supposed to put screws closer than 2" apart. It's sort of like using a hilti in conrete, and hertzian cones. If the rock shatters near the screw, then the other screws fail. That's why when adding "insurance" in a sheet, we stick to a 4" spacing.


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## mudslingr

SlimPickins said:


> Here, we're not supposed to put screws closer than 2" apart. It's sort of like using a hilti in conrete, and hertzian cones. If the rock shatters near the screw, then the other screws fail. That's why when adding "insurance" in a sheet, we stick to a 4" spacing.


 Holy crap Slim ! If you know about hertzian cones and Escher wtf are you doing drywall for ? Are you a rocket scientist turned dust sucker ? :notworthy:


And I totally agree !


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## SlimPickins

mudslingr said:


> Holy crap Slim ! If you know about hertzian cones and Escher wtf are you doing drywall for ? Are you a rocket scientist turned dust sucker ? :notworthy:
> 
> 
> And I totally agree !


:laughing: Now I can "like" AND "thank" a post!

I can't be _too _smart, I'm out there pounding the pavement and shaking the tree for work right now!


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## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> Here, we're not supposed to put screws closer than 2" apart. It's sort of like using a hilti in conrete, and hertzian cones. If the rock shatters near the screw, then the other screws fail. That's why when adding "insurance" in a sheet, we stick to a 4" spacing.


I get what your saying...but you cannot compare hilti shot forced into concrete breaking it.To a screw being threaded in to drywall and wood.those are two different applacations.


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## mudslingr

smisner50s said:


> I get what your saying...but you cannot compare hilti shot forced into concrete breaking it.To a screw being threaded in to drywall and wood.those are two different applacations.


Maybe so, but respectfully, Slim is still right. Putting screws too close together usually ends up with you playing " twist a quarter turn " between the two or three screws in that bunch. As soon as that second screw goes in the first is automatically loosened thus defeating the purpose of it. 

Just too much of a risk that can be avoided easily.


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## smisner50s

mudslingr said:


> Maybe so, but respectfully, Slim is still right. Putting screws too close together usually ends up with you playing " twist a quarter turn " between the two or three screws in that bunch. As soon as that second screw goes in the first is automatically loosened thus defeating the purpose of it.
> 
> Just too much of a risk that can be avoided easily.


Good point that makes sense..


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## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> I get what your saying...but you cannot compare hilti shot forced into concrete breaking it.To a screw being threaded in to drywall and wood.those are two different applacations.


Sure, they're two different applications, but if you've ever seen how the edge of sheetrock breaks on uneven framing when you screw it, you've seen that in all actuality the effects are quite similar. The back of the board blows out, leaving only the face paper intact. Now, if you put multiple screws in that area of blowout, it's still blown out and the rock is unsound in that area, which can lead to movement there. I believe that the technical data for drywall fastening states that screws should be spaced no closer than 2", in any application (for drywall's version of a "hertzian cone"). I'm not trying to be argumentative, maybe just trying to save you some headaches down the road.


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## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> Sure, they're two different applications, but if you've ever seen how the edge of sheetrock breaks on uneven framing when you screw it, you've seen that in all actuality the effects are quite similar. The back of the board blows out, leaving only the face paper intact. Now, if you put multiple screws in that area of blowout, it's still blown out and the rock is unsound in that area, which can lead to movement there. I believe that the technical data for drywall fastening states that screws should be spaced no closer than 2", in any application (for drywall's version of a "hertzian cone"). I'm not trying to be argumentative, maybe just trying to save you some headaches down the road.


Cool.me neather on argueing..Im allways open to correcrtive critzsim.I know my way is not allways right .so when ever I get good feedback on subject I try to apply its...:thumbsup:


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## smisner50s

slim i was looking around and came across this


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## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> slim i was looking around and came across this


see,you have google skills smisner50s :yes::jester:
from thread http://www.drywalltalk.com/f6/where-would-you-start-1797/index2/
quote ;; I will see what I can come up with.my computer skills are rough.might take me a few


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## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> slim i was looking around and came across this


Yep, that's one of the fastening patterns when using nails in the field. You can also go every six inches. Notice the spacing at 2":thumbsup:

I had to go back and look at your picture of the exterior entrance..I think you're a little under two inches:jester:

Honestly, I don't think it's that big of a deal, but I personally wouldn't make a habit of it.

There have been occasions when I wasn't diligent in inspecting my walls and found badly bowed studs after the sheet was 80% fastened. Trying to suck it down tight I went too close with my pattern, and the sheet becomes basically cut in half at that location. Nails are actually good in those circumstances, you can gradually get the sheet to pull tight to the framing with soft impacts, where it seems like with screws there is a point of no return where it just pulls through.

Anyway, don't listen to me....you do good work judging by the basement:thumbup:


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## smisner50s

this is a pic of the basement door drywall returned..looked a bit plain so i put a 8inch rip than a 4 inch rip on top of that to fancy it up ..


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## moore

smisner50s said:


> slim i was looking around and came across this


 in the 1970s [sorry ,couldn't help it]


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> in the 1970s [sorry ,couldn't help it]


that was the 1980's for us canucks,were always a few years behind you yanks in fads .
I couldn't resist either :whistling2:


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## smisner50s

smisner50s said:


> this is a pic of the basement door drywall returned..looked a bit plain so i put a 8inch rip than a 4 inch rip on top of that to fancy it up ..


 here are a few pic of the texture i put on this basement ...the product is litex commericl texture system...it is a spray applied basecoat ..followed by a spray applied knock down or what ever the the person choses..i went with two tinted different colores for a different look...this stuff dries hard as a rock verry durrable:thumbup::thumbup:


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## smisner50s

heres another one


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## cdwoodcox

That litex stuff does set up like a rock. How was it spraying would it be hard to spray it thick enough to give ceiling texture depth or profile. I have seen some commercial painters trying too spray it they had no clue I tried to give them some pointers they wouldn't listen seemed real thin good for walls but not for ceiling. Whats your thoughts on it?


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## smisner50s

cdwoodcox said:


> That litex stuff does set up like a rock. How was it spraying would it be hard to spray it thick enough to give ceiling texture depth or profile. I have seen some commercial painters trying too spray it they had no clue I tried to give them some pointers they wouldn't listen seemed real thin good for walls but not for ceiling. Whats your thoughts on it?


It works great orangepeel.knockdown.splatter......but as far spraying it smooth do a stomp or design..I dont think it would work real well.....but they do have a product for what you are inquiring about......


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## 2buckcanuck

I like the look of the door way smis, it looked star trekky like before, now it looks like granite stone work. Your a creative buggy aren't you:thumbsup:
I LIKE :yes:


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