# Cornerbead



## big george (Feb 7, 2009)

Just wondering what everyone was using for cornerbead,and how your putting it on.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Mostly metal with a 1/4" crown galvanized 1" staple.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

No-coat Ultraflex 325.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I Use B-1 superwide, I like how it goes on, I use to use metal with 7/16 x1-1/2" staples. That worked good to but to much stuff to drag around. I found that the paper faced works better because it is bonded to the sheetrock and not tied into the wood with any fasteners so if there is any shrinkage in the lumber you will not have any beads crack or come loose. Even with the mesh over metal it will still let go when the wood contracts or expands. Tape on paper face will not be affected with the wood movement. I also like the No coat on long runs, little harder to work with but has some great advantages. Currently working on a home with one outside 45 that is close to 20' high from top to bottom, the No Coat works perfect for this application, one continuous run easy to keep plumb and level. Also the paper faced bead fills so much nicer.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

silverstilts said:


> I Use B-1 superwide, I like how it goes on, I use to use metal with 7/16 x1-1/2" staples. That worked good to but to much stuff to drag around. I found that the paper faced works better because it is bonded to the sheetrock and not tied into the wood with any fasteners so if there is any shrinkage in the lumber you will not have any beads crack or come loose. Even with the mesh over metal it will still let go when the wood contracts or expands. Tape on paper face will not be affected with the wood movement. I also like the No coat on long runs, little harder to work with but has some great advantages. Currently working on a home with one outside 45 that is close to 20' high from top to bottom, the No Coat works perfect for this application, one continuous run easy to keep plumb and level. Also the paper faced bead fills so much nicer.


Is that B-1 made by USG, as i'm about to start using their products here in the UK?


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Yes it is made by USG but I have found not all USG paper faced bead is the same , for instance if I buy from a drywall supplier such as drywall supply or tamarack the bead seams more stiffer the metal is somewhat heavier , versus buying USG B-1 from say Sherwin Williams. It seems it is made somewhat lighter and has a tendency to buckle back off the angle, it just isn't as ridged, so USG must make a cheaper grade for different suppliers, go figure. Maybe someone else will chime in and testify to these findings. 
Also there are other paper faced bead out there but again they are lightweight and are harder to install getting to stick to where they should.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

I'll back Silver on that cheaper grade of B1. Tried it and Phillips paper faced several years ago and absolutely despised both. No matter what we tried, all paper faced ( with metal) came off. But other guys seem to love the stuff. We used the hopper, AP and even hot mud. But no matter what method we used, it was a warranty nightmare and the USG rep was of no help as we'd tried Phillips bead alongside. The Phillips paper was less likely to flash for some reason.

My tapers loved the paper faced as they could put it on in 1/2 the time of metal with 1/4 crown staples. The paper faced was about 40% higher cost. So we are back to metal and staples, meshed. I don't get any of it cracking, unless someone hits it so hard that it dents. Then can sawzall the section out and repair. A superintendent removed 4 pieces on a column once. The episode required a boz of bandaids and further proved to me that stapled metal is there for life.

But next to a 20' high off angle LR fireplace, will use the big No-Coat for same reason as Silver.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

Thanks Guys.


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## Stormy_Ny (Jun 13, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'll back Silver on that cheaper grade of B1. Tried it and Phillips paper faced several years ago and absolutely despised both. No matter what we tried, all paper faced ( with metal) came off. But other guys seem to love the stuff. We used the hopper, AP and even hot mud. But no matter what method we used, it was a warranty nightmare and the USG rep was of no help as we'd tried Phillips bead alongside. The Phillips paper was less likely to flash for some reason.
> 
> *My tapers loved the paper faced as they could put it on in 1/2 the time of metal with 1/4 crown staples. *The paper faced was about 40% higher cost. So we are back to metal and staples, meshed. I don't get any of it cracking, unless someone hits it so hard that it dents. Then can sawzall the section out and repair. A superintendent removed 4 pieces on a column once. The episode required a boz of bandaids and further proved to me that stapled metal is there for life.
> 
> But next to a 20' high off angle LR fireplace, will use the big No-Coat for same reason as Silver.


What costs more ....Materials or labor :blink:

Paper faced blows metal away .....


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

In the UK, the No-Coat bead is so expensive (equivalent to $62 for Ultraflex 325), I don't think the saving in material or installation time, would make it comparable pricewise with any other corner product. I still use it though because I like it.


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## big george (Feb 7, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> I'll back Silver on that cheaper grade of B1. Tried it and Phillips paper faced several years ago and absolutely despised both. No matter what we tried, all paper faced ( with metal) came off. But other guys seem to love the stuff. We used the hopper, AP and even hot mud. But no matter what method we used, it was a warranty nightmare and the USG rep was of no help as we'd tried Phillips bead alongside. The Phillips paper was less likely to flash for some reason.
> 
> My tapers loved the paper faced as they could put it on in 1/2 the time of metal with 1/4 crown staples. The paper faced was about 40% higher cost. So we are back to metal and staples, meshed. I don't get any of it cracking, unless someone hits it so hard that it dents. Then can sawzall the section out and repair. A superintendent removed 4 pieces on a column once. The episode required a boz of bandaids and further proved to me that stapled metal is there for life.
> 
> But next to a 20' high off angle LR fireplace, will use the big No-Coat for same reason as Silver.


 Darren.Is it the normal to mesh the bead.We use metal most of the time with no mesh.


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## big george (Feb 7, 2009)

Stormy_Ny said:


> What costs more ....Materials or labor :blink:
> 
> Paper faced blows metal away .....


 Stormy . Do you use paper on jobs that the framing is bad.


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## Stormy_Ny (Jun 13, 2009)

big george said:


> Stormy . Do you use paper on jobs that the framing is bad.


I use paper almost a 100% now ...Good framing or bad. I think it is easier to correct bad framing with the paper .... Fastening metal and bad framing is the #1 reason I love paper.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I just use whatever i have or can get ,where i live the nearest drywall supply is 90 mi. away.our drywall comes from the lumber yard, my guys stock .we do have home depo but they don,t have anything speacial .I order ultra flex sometimes and go pick up stuff when nessisary too .i use 1/4 in. crown stapels or tape on ,whatever pleases me at the time to keep bordom down.never have very many problems with either.It is just drywall for god sake !!!


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

big george said:


> Darren.Is it the normal to mesh the bead.We use metal most of the time with no mesh.


We've never had a problem not meshing the metal. We've seen it done, and always wondered if we should be doing it to. But if it ain't broke, don't fix it. We have paper taped metal before when the metal just barely laps onto the drywall. This seems like a likely situation to crack.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I also mesh my metal, when I use it. It's fine without, I've done it plenty. It's more of a quality control thing. You know it will never crack on the bead. It's just an assurance thing, in my opinion


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

The mesh can be good but have found sometimes the metal bead may have an oil film on them and the mesh will not bond like it should. There is also additional cost of the mesh itself while it may be minimal it still is an added cost not to mention the additional time to mesh both sides of the bead. Yes paper faced bead is not cheap, but you should weight the time it takes to install it . Less labor more income or less on material more income. Myself I would rather spend a few extra bucks and save on the labor. I do believe that coating them also saves you extra material if installed correct, you have the ability to press them on a little tighter against the sheetrock so there is not deep voids to fill, so you can use much less mud coating less mud = less trips to fill the pan. Overall a little time saved here and there across the whole project adds up in the long run.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

........and not all metals are created equal either. Our supplier has carried two different brands over the years and we refuse one of them if it shows up on the job. The one takes 2-3x longer to put on and finishes much tougher too. Generally just a big PITA. Couldn't tell you the brands, but we know them when we see them.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I remember many years ago some one had brought me some 1" metal corner bead on the job. I had no idea that something that dimension was ever made , If it wasn't bad enough using 1-1/8" the one inch was impossible the job would have had to be nuts on which it wasn't old apartment remodel. I told him to take it back to wherever he had found it, he told me he had had it for some years and thought I could use it up WRONG......


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Yes, we always mesh over metal bead. Had a sub taper skip it a few times and had a few hairline cracks. General consensus here is that it's pretty much required. But on a big apt. or low margin job, I might reconsider. That added cost of three or four rolls of mesh prevents even one call back, it's money and time well-spent.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

When cracks happen, how was the bead applied? I'm trying to remember if I ever had a crack in a corner bead.

For the last 8 to 10 years I have stapled, and keep staples no more than 4 inches apart. Back when I hand nailed them on, I kept nails about 10 inches apart. I have always been been very anal about corners. I won't even let my dad touch them, putting them on or finishing. lol


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## big george (Feb 7, 2009)

I guess every one mostly uses metal with staples.Paper bead seems to come in second,but no one talked about vinyl bead.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I think you guys are too darn fussy. You should only have to tape the bead after install if theres not enouph nails or staples in it ,or if the board is cut back too much or if its tape on if its blistered from too much wipedown.thats one thing i havent had much trouble with not to say i havent had to fix some.


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Vinyl bead sucks for horizontal work, too limp. Why carry for only verticals?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

mesh on metal??? I find myself at a loss for words


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Next month we will be likely using No-Coat for the first time. This is just a finishing job for us, with multiple outside 45º corners. It is unlikely there will be proper framing behind them for metal.

Anyway, they seem easy enough to install and finish, but I have always had a question. How do you deal with the corner up against the ceiling? I suspect you cut it as evenly as possible and shove it up tight and let some mud squirt out to smoothen, but is that it? Any additional treatment?


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## Stormy_Ny (Jun 13, 2009)

I have learned to take my time with the no-coat products. Making sure there is enough mud behind .... Nothing worse then voids on a long run. I have also leaned that "No-Coat" is an oxy-moron.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> mesh on metal??? I find myself at a loss for words


Me too!


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## R.E. Plaster (Jun 27, 2009)

We use no-coat and run it through the hopper works great the one thing I learned is that you need to make sure your mud is on the juicy side we'v had good success with this product


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

R.E. Plaster said:


> We use no-coat and run it through the hopper works great the one thing I learned is that you need to make sure your mud is on the juicy side we'v had good success with this product



Been using the no-coat stick bead about 2 years now. Very easy install, takes less mud to finish, and not a call back yet.:thumbsup:


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## MIKE FROM NH (Dec 20, 2009)

No Coat is a pain the ass to work with PERIOD, for mud on flex tape I prefer Straight Flex AND if cheaper! The OP was aking about corner bead. I use the cheapest method and that is vinyl, and metal is 2nd. Vinyl can be installed using nails, staples, 3m 61 spray glue, or mudded on. It can get bumped and it doesent dent, will not rust, doesnt cut your hands up. No hoppers and funky machines needed here! I'll do vinyl with staples or nails. Haven't found a h/o that gave a ratts ass. Builders don't pay more for upgrades like PFM or NC so they can kiss my ass. Further how long is your warrany? If sh*t is cracking...what about the lumber? foundation? temp? humidity %...point is too many factors. Use whats cheap, and fix YOUR mistakes if there is any not cracks caused by not drywall related issues...


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

MIKE FROM NH said:


> No Coat is a pain the ass to work with PERIOD,


No it's not! And you are a grumpus!


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I agree with Tony!! Mike is grumpy!!:yes:


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

We used to use a crimper back in the day too.Hold the bead in place ,push the crimper tight to it and BAM, hit it with a rubber mallot.No nails, the mud and the crimps held it on .Worked ok i,m sure some of you old timers did it .


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Sure did. And they cracked pretty easy. Hardly took a bump from the trim carpenter. Now with mud on beads, they can beat up all the want. At least they won't edge crack like the metal beads. Up about 18 inches.


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## MIKE FROM NH (Dec 20, 2009)

TonyM said:


> No it's not! And you are a grumpus!


what are you talking about?


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

He's talking about your period.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

USG Beadex B1-Super Wide paper bead is all i will use. i thought metal beads were gone with the dinosaurs! Latex based paint does not stick to metal, that's why the switch was made. pre-90's, lots of oil based paints on the market, they stick to metal. post-90's, enter latex, no likey metal. metal/mesh, why do you like making your lives so difficult?

plastic Trim-Tex corners should not be stapled on unless you plan on doing 3 coats ontop of your bead, they will be hallow. they need to be mudded on.

no-coat 450 is great for inside/outside offsets, i would never use it for outside 45's though. to hard to work with. joining up corner bead is easy on long runs, just make sure your join isn't on a butt.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

alltex said:


> We used to use a crimper back in the day too.Hold the bead in place ,push the crimper tight to it and BAM, hit it with a rubber mallot.No nails, the mud and the crimps held it on .Worked ok i,m sure some of you old timers did it .


 
I use a crimper or a clincher as we call it, on metal and add staples to it for added protection. The clincher will set the bead square'd, and the staples will help it from cracking.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

the only time i've ever used a clincher was in Russia. I was hired by a vancouver company to tape 200,000bd/ft at a gold mine in far east siberia, arctic circle. they told me they had all the tools, they did not. no pole sander... i am not sanding 200,000bdft by hand. i saved all the sanding until the next trip, brought a sander and a mini tube.

the clincher is oldschool.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

McDusty said:


> the only time i've ever used a clincher was in Russia. I was hired by a vancouver company to tape 200,000bd/ft at a gold mine in far east siberia, arctic circle. they told me they had all the tools, they did not. no pole sander... i am not sanding 200,000bdft by hand. i saved all the sanding until the next trip, brought a sander and a mini tube.
> 
> the clincher is oldschool.


The clincher is old school, but will put your c-bead on level and square if your walls are framed right. Also its the fastest method to attach your bead.


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## Taper Rick (Jan 6, 2010)

B-1 super wide I think has become the new standard in drywall. Paper bead is just plain quick and doesn’t crack. The only time I consider metal is for a small area or patch that I don’t want to mix taping mud for. I have been using B-1 super wide since the middle 90's and really like it. Use both the red hopper, and angle box to install.


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Anyone tried the new Hydrotrim by Structus? Same as No-Coat but a wet&stick type product. Looks fast

D'S


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## big george (Feb 7, 2009)

Always thought that would be a good idea.Would like to know more,and the cost.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

D's said:


> Anyone tried the new Hydrotrim by Structus? Same as No-Coat but a wet&stick type product. Looks fast
> 
> D'S


What a great product. Bet it's expensive though.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

That would be great if it is the real deal. Any seasoned tapers out there try any of the hydro bead yet ? I can see that being a real time saver, I wonder how flat it fits against the wall with respect to fill ? I think I will try to get my hands on some to give it a try, you just never know.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I was just thinking a while back there were some posts regarding fire taping I thought using the same principle have to double check , but if that is the case perhaps the bead would not bond as well as portrayed in the videos, I wasn't so convinced on the comparison with the USG all purpose versus their tape with the water activated adhesive because it looked as if the mud was wiped to tight and there was absolutely no mud left on the sheetrock. Every time I have tried to peel off perfa tape after it drys it sure don't come off that easy, the paper separates and comes off in little bits and pieces.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

silverstilts said:


> That would be great if it is the real deal. Any seasoned tapers out there try any of the hydro bead yet ? I can see that being a real time saver, I wonder how flat it fits against the wall with respect to fill ? I think I will try to get my hands on some to give it a try, you just never know.


I can't find any stockists online or a price. It is going to be tight as.... to the wall as there's no mud. Have you watched all the videos?

Here. http://straightonthewall.com/.docs/_sid/80d3f254dcd76dfcc4263f229b757eda/pg/10551


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## rhardman (Jul 7, 2009)

TonyM said:


> I can't find any stockists online or a price. It is going to be tight as.... to the wall as there's no mud. Have you watched all the videos?
> 
> Here. http://straightonthewall.com/.docs/_sid/80d3f254dcd76dfcc4263f229b757eda/pg/10551


 
This might be helpful...





 
(Update....Arrrgggghhhh, just noticed this video was in Tony's link too...:wallbash _Didn't mean to cramp your style buddy!_


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

rhardman said:


> This might be helpful...
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUvD90cD7Aw&feature=related
> 
> (Update....Arrrgggghhhh, just noticed this video was in Tony's link too...:wallbash _Didn't mean to cramp your style buddy!_


No worries Rick.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

So where did the link go how come it was removed from youTube ? Any one know what happend ?


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

Try this

http://www.hydrotrimcorner.com/


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## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

Paper bead is more expensive but goes on atleast twice as fast. i About sh%t when i seen how fast these guys were putting it on using hopper. Metal bead stapled and meshed seems so strong like it would really stand the test of time. But they both end up cuppin and crackin the same. I always thought the best way of doin it was metal with paper tape. You could really tell the difference on your fill coat when you did that. It was real full and didnt shrink back much


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Gotta tell you gentlemen, none of that would fly on the high end jobs we're doing. On the production jobs we use metal. snap lines and staple it on.
On the high end jobs I figure a man putting up 12-16 sticks of bead a day. You can't get bead perfect by just snapping lines or using a crimper. It may look good but try putting an 8' level on it, or a plumb- bob. Worse yet, try putting a piece of finished millwork against it ( ARRRRRRRGHH!!!!!) The supers on some of our high end projects will make you tear it all down if it's not PIN straight. I've developed a system for getting it 100% all the time, but takes patience and a carpenter with good finishing instincts.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

d-rock said:


> Gotta tell you gentlemen, none of that would fly on the high end jobs we're doing. On the production jobs we use metal. snap lines and staple it on.
> On the high end jobs I figure a man putting up 12-16 sticks of bead a day. You can't get bead perfect by just snapping lines or using a crimper. It may look good but try putting an 8' level on it, or a plumb- bob. Worse yet, try putting a piece of finished millwork against it ( ARRRRRRRGHH!!!!!) The supers on some of our high end projects will make you tear it all down if it's not PIN straight. I've developed a system for getting it 100% all the time, but takes patience and a carpenter with good finishing instincts.


I use my PLS 2 for a 6 ft level with stapes!:thumbup:


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

joepro0000 said:


> I use my PLS 2 for a 6 ft level with stapes!:thumbup:


good system, certainly works for soffits, but try putting a straight edge against it after you're done...


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

joepro0000 said:


> The clincher is old school, but will put your c-bead on level and square if your walls are framed right. Also its the fastest method to attach your bead.


no way. sorry to disagree.


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## grapita (Sep 27, 2009)

*hydrotrimcorner*

:whistling2:hydrotrimcorner or straitflex ?


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## grapita (Sep 27, 2009)

In my opinion Metal Corner beads should be paper tape after nail it correctly, iam sorry but not clincher and definitely not mesh on metal. You'll save some money and future dissapoinments. Paper tape and will not get any cracks.


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

I just got a half dozen sticks of hydrotrim from my supplier. Let you all know what I think when I've had a chance to use them.

D'S


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

I like the No-Coat bead. That what I use. How much is the hydrotrim?


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## TF1 (Feb 10, 2010)

big george,go with the no coat products little or no call backs, save on time and material.


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

grapita said:


> In my opinion Metal Corner beads should be paper tape after nail it correctly, iam sorry but not clincher and definitely not mesh on metal. You'll save some money and future dissapoinments. Paper tape and will not get any cracks.


I disgree. The paper tape causes the finisher to apply too much mud to cover the paper, thereby taking away from the sharpness of the corner. On our jobs we do not permit it. Mesh tape is fine b/c it's not as thick, and we set favoring the back edge of the bead. The purpose of the tape is to prevent hair-lining, not to strengthen the bead.


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

I started a thread in the hanging section about hydratrim, Around here the rockers put bead on. My thread didn't really pan out, I guess I need to talk to finishers about bead, eh?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Wallers said:


> I started a thread in the hanging section about hydratrim, Around here the rockers put bead on. My thread didn't really pan out, I guess I need to talk to finishers about bead, eh?


Would be a good idea,,,, hangers don't know squat about bead, even if they are required to put it on, they don't know anything about if its on right or what it even takes to make it right, unless they finish also. That would be like asking a brick mason about beads


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

I tried the hydrotrim last week and can't say I was too crazy about it. Mind you I was on a job where all board was 5/8" and it was a renovation so nothing was straight. In situations when you're trying to make everything square and t-up nicely, like with columns, beams, closet returns, it's hard to adjust and build up. Worked well enough for simple stand up corners. I'd try it again in new construction with 1/2" walls but stick with mud on beads for the tricky stuff.

D'S


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Would be a good idea,,,, hangers don't know squat about bead, even if they are required to put it on, they don't know anything about if its on right or what it even takes to make it right, unless they finish also. That would be like asking a brick mason about beads


Non sense. My tapers have the easiest job around..


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

d-rock said:


> Non sense. My tapers have the easiest job around..


They may well have,,,, but what has that got to do with hangers putting beads on?????


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

d-rock said:


> I disgree. The paper tape causes the finisher to apply too much mud to cover the paper, thereby taking away from the sharpness of the corner. On our jobs we do not permit it. Mesh tape is fine b/c it's not as thick, and we set favoring the back edge of the bead. The purpose of the tape is to prevent hair-lining, not to strengthen the bead.


Really the only time I see hairline cracks is when the bead is tight from floor to ceiling, and then it's due to settling (or heaving). We don't tape our metal bead at all!


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

FYI - I'm paying .44/lnf for Hydrotrim

D'S


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> They may well have,,,, but what has that got to do with hangers putting beads on?????


 in these parts, tapers NEVER put up bead unless it's the S**T that runs through the hopper, but it's not common.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

d-rock said:


> in these parts, tapers NEVER put up bead unless it's the S**T that runs through the hopper, but it's not common.


So what your saying is,,,,,, your beads are NEVER put on prperly,,,,

I mean would a painter have the siding guys "caulk" for them???:whistling2:


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

Some of the hangers i've followed can't put a screw in properly or use a tape measure, so i'm glad I do my own beads. Also, IMO, metal beads stick out too far.


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> So what your saying is,,,,,, your beads are NEVER put on prperly,,,,
> 
> I mean would a painter have the siding guys "caulk" for them???:whistling2:


 are you kidding ? taper can't tell if something is straight if a level was glued to his head. How many tapers you know carry a chalk line in their bag ? We hang the bead correctly, so the tapers have no problems finishing. We don't differentiate between the hangers and the finishers. We're all one outfit working towards the perfect wall/ceiling. In order for the company to continue doing business, we all have to think like a giant organism.
Captain...lighten up.


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

and 1 more thing..Around here it's the carpenters' job to hang the boards and beads. Finishers are mud only. Some companies have guys that do both, hang and finish, so it's the same guy doing both. Having said that, you'll see that guy hanging beads while he's hanging boards.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

d-rock said:


> Having said that, you'll see that guy hanging beads while he's hanging boards.


That makes sense. Hang the board, install the bead, then wait for some clumsy f ucktard of a carpenter to come along with a length of 4x2 and give it a clout before it's taped.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

d-rock said:


> and 1 more thing..Around here it's the carpenters' job to hang the boards and beads. Finishers are mud only. Some companies have guys that do both, hang and finish, so it's the same guy doing both. Having said that, you'll see that guy hanging beads while he's hanging boards.


 
See you made my point for me,,,,, you do things DIFFERANTLY in NYC than we do here,,,,, 

Its just differant,,, thats all....

And I agree, lighten up !!!! YOU drew first blood,,,, IMPLYING that NYC does IT right and if we don't do it "like they do it up north" we are stupid,,,,,

Before you reply, go back and re-read your posts,,,,

Peace,,,,,,,, the OLD fart !!!:thumbsup:


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Captain, You're wrong again. I never said you guys did it wrong . Someone else said they did it best , and that drywallers in Minnesotta knew quality better than anyone else.....MINNESOTTA !! That set me off. REAd THE POSTS.
A state that elected Al Franken to the senate.


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## Stormy_Ny (Jun 13, 2009)

d-rock said:


> Captain, You're wrong again. I never said you guys did it wrong . Someone else said they did it best , and that drywallers in Minnesotta knew quality better than anyone else.....MINNESOTTA !! That set me off. REAd THE POSTS.
> *A state that elected Al Franken to the senate.*


Lets not forget Jessie ...... Just saying ......


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

d-rock said:


> Captain, You're wrong again. I never said you guys did it wrong . Someone else said they did it best , and that drywallers in Minnesotta knew quality better than anyone else.....MINNESOTTA !! That set me off. REAd THE POSTS.
> A state that elected Al Franken to the senate.


 
Just like a Yankee,,, start some sh*t and then say they didn't,,,

My G'ma used to say... "don't pee down my back and tell me its raining !!"


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Just like a Yankee,,, start some sh*t and then say they didn't,,,
> 
> My G'ma used to say... "don't pee down my back and tell me its raining !!"


i'm gonna let this go...b/c you're a silly old reb.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

d-rock said:


> i'm gonna let this go...b/c you're a silly old reb.


Yes I am,,,, HOWEVER we could get along ifin ya wanted to,,,,

Acutually,,, I'm bi-racial,,,,, my mother was a Yankee.

I spent most of my life in the North, Long Island, Rhode Island, and Mass.

However, that don't really mean squat when it comes to drywall.....

Lets just talk drywall and leave all the "where I come from stuff" out of it.

Peace bro


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