# taper repair



## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I'm looking to repair my taper and was wondering how I go about removing the drive wheels so that I can replace the bushings on the shaft and or the shaft if worn and possibly the chain as it seems to be getting looser then new but it could be that the shaft or bushings are worn

.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

what you need mudstar is a new bazooka, your still running a concord.:jester:
I use to repair my own tools,think I may go back to servicing them my self,after sending four boxes in to get rebuilt and they run worse now......
the front gear,push backwards on it ,that will loosen that.then the 2 holes in the wheel ,two big holes,think you need allen keys for them,loosen those from the shaft,then punch the shaft through,it can be a pain to put the little plastic bushings in
to know if your bushings need replacing ,your drive wheel should not wobble back and forth,left or right.
chains do wear out,maybe you just half to put more tension on the chain guard.will see if I can find picks to explain better,know where i can find a schematic of bazooka so.....


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> what you need mudstar is a new bazooka, your still running a concord.:jester:
> I use to repair my own tools,think I may go back to servicing them my self,after sending four boxes in to get rebuilt and they run worse now......
> the front gear,push backwards on it ,that will loosen that.then the 2 holes in the wheel ,two big holes,think you need allen keys for them,loosen those from the shaft,then punch the shaft through,it can be a pain to put the little plastic bushings in
> to know if your bushings need replacing ,your drive wheel should not wobble back and forth,left or right.
> chains do wear out,maybe you just half to put more tension on the chain guard.will see if I can find picks to explain better,know where i can find a schematic of bazooka so.....




Was thinking that was the way I just have never done it before. 

Thanks 2buck


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

wait for the captain though before you start,I will admit he knows the mechanical end very well.anyone who can say you should do so and so to let the bazooka control mud flow....must of had quite a few taken apart in his life time.
hear that Columbia,a bazooka that can control the flow of mud,ask the captain how to do it:whistling2:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Holy Guacamole !!!!!! 

I am no expert guys,,,, 

I had a drive chain go bad on a DM tube once. Chains will strech abit, no biggy, just bend the adjuster down abit to put some presure on it. The chain I had go bad got a "stiff" link in it, ya know like an old rusty bicycle chain does. Thats easy enough to spot, just spin the drive wheels slowly and watch REAL CLOSE and if there is a bad (stiff,stove up link) you will see it as it passes over the gears. It happens (rarely), and it hurts, a drive chain is like 150.00 bucks. If you think you have one but are not sure, just take it off and run it over your fingers, when you hit the bad spot, you can feel it, without a doubt.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I am re-building my COL taper, I ran into a problem with it. I think its just jammed and needs a "punch", however since COL has been so active here, I sent em an email on it, since they advertise that theirs is diferant than the rest. I am currently waiting for their "re-building a taper" video. I can afford to do that, since I have two tapers. 

If you have only one and NEED to get it fixed, like NOW. Post what the problem is, if I can shed some light, I will, and I know others here can help also, like DSJohn for one, Silver can probbly help also. There are alot of guys hee that have fixed their own here for years.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

see you called it a adjuster,I called it a chain guard ,yes there was a schematic posted on this site but it did not label the part names (have index) we need some thing like that.
yeah mudstar when chain starts running loose ,just adjust that thing ma gober thing a ma jig,hell I have just whacked it with a hammer before and that adjusted her fine,but then again I have gone through a few bazookas in my life time:blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> see you called it a adjuster,I called it a chain guard ,yes there was a schematic posted on this site but it did not label the part names (have index) we need some thing like that.
> yeah mudstar when chain starts running loose ,just adjust that thing ma gober thing a ma jig,hell I have just whacked it with a hammer before and that adjusted her fine,but then again I have gone through a few bazookas in my life time:blink:


 LOL, you got a point there,,,,, I don't know what it called, I guess we could look at the schemtic (go to walltools site, look at the schematic and click on the part mumber, it will give you the correct name)and then we'd know. I like to use a pair of channel-lock pliers to "bend" it down abit.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here's the link for you mudstar http://www.walltools.com/store/skin/frontend/default/default/images/pdf/COL-TAPER.pdf
schematic of all the parts


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I do have a blueline as well and can use that one till I figure out how to install this bushings. I might replace the chain as it does seem loose. Loose enough that I can take it off by freeing up the gober thing 2buck calls it and I call it the brake. I tried punching the shaft out once the alan screws removed but it wont bugg. Still thinking what else I might be missing to do.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PM Columbia mudstar,they will help you,they may take pity upon you too ,since you own a concord,maybe they will give you a good deal on a bazooka:jester:,you should get new wheel things too (ct-67) nice when theres new teeth on your wheels


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here's a better diagram mudstar http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/DrywallMaster-Creaser-Drive-Parts;jsessionid=2M9kMpSYyFQNf4Djpv4VtbTxLQY2DbCZNx3jLQwmL49PZXhQp92rhG8HsHRB6jQwCwjyR9vj71XvJNJxyvLhQv1MBKPFfhBzv4VBRjv66Vnr1N5Q2vp4BB2T2Mqkvshd!-1160841217


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> PM Columbia mudstar,they will help you,they may take pity upon you too ,since you own a concord,maybe they will give you a good deal on a bazooka:jester:,you should get new wheel things too (ct-67) nice when theres new teeth on your wheels



I do have them parts for that too the 2 sides with the teeth but the teeth are still good, its not slipping around yet


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

If you look on ebay mudstar under 1wallboardsman thats john luman, he has a very good dvd on taper repair, step by step he pulls it down and rebuilds it, but it is tapetech and finishpro which are the same bazookas he is showing you, so dont know if your concorde is the same, or all wall for some tool doctor manauls, these are great as well.


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## ColumbiaTechSupport (Aug 13, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I'm looking to repair my taper and was wondering how I go about removing the drive wheels so that I can replace the bushings on the shaft and or the shaft if worn and possibly the chain as it seems to be getting looser then new but it could be that the shaft or bushings are worn
> 
> .


With a pair of pliers hold the small sprocket in place, then while holding the brake dog out of the way so that you can reverse your top wheel pull the top wheel backwards and it will start too loosen, this removes the chain from the drive shaft. Take a 5/64 allen key and remove the set screw that is in the hole on the top wheel and this will allow you to remove the drive shaft, it might be stiff to remove. Once the top wheel is off you can change your bushings.


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I am re-building my COL taper, I ran into a problem with it. I think its just jammed and needs a "punch", however since COL has been so active here, I sent em an email on it, since they advertise that theirs is diferant than the rest. I am currently waiting for their "re-building a taper" video. I can afford to do that, since I have two tapers.


 
did your clicker roller get jammed underneath the drive wheel? I have seen that happen when accidentally spun backwards, just enough to jam it.
Bill


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

proficient Mudder said:


> did your clicker roller get jammed underneath the drive wheel? I have seen that happen when accidentally spun backwards, just enough to jam it.
> Bill


 I have a hard time getting things across most times,,, I guess thats why I'm not a novelist,,lol

My problem is not with the drive wheel section, its with removeing the dog from the shaft that holds the cable. I have dissasmebled it and removed the set screw, but can't get it to budge. Rather than force it, I'm waiting on the col video. Since I'm in no hurry, I thought I'd let the guys that REALLY know whats happening, to show me how they do it. It looks the same as the other ones (DM & TT) but since they advertise a split clutch system, I figure maybe something is differant on this one.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I have a Tape Tech Taper and it won't come out of neutral. Jumped out of gear while taping today. The cable all balled up with mud still in it. Pushed the mud out and cleaned it, rewound the cable and it just spins. Tried putting a new drive dog spring in. No luck. Any ideas?


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

ColumbiaTechSupport said:


> With a pair of pliers hold the small sprocket in place, then while holding the brake dog out of the way so that you can reverse your top wheel pull the top wheel backwards and it will start too loosen, this removes the chain from the drive shaft. Take a 5/64 allen key and remove the set screw that is in the hole on the top wheel and this will allow you to remove the drive shaft, it might be stiff to remove. Once the top wheel is off you can change your bushings.



I followed your instructions with great success. 

I spun the small sprocket off to remove the chain extracted the setscrew then I had to strike shaft for 20 min to remove as suggested. Wow was that in there! 

After removing the shaft from the wheel I had access the hubs and bearings which I found the the chain side hub was slightly worn into the aluminum which I will have to order but holds the new bearing tight enough still.

Before assembly I took a drill bit 1/4" which is the exact size as the spool with the wheels installed to smooth out the hole and polished the shaft with some emery 

Now next time I disassemble which I will do now on a regular schedule will only take seconds when the replacement hub comes in and extra bearings for when the next time my taper requires there replacement. 


Thank u very much for the great info Aaron!

:thumbup1:


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Tim0282 said:


> I have a Tape Tech Taper and it won't come out of neutral. Jumped out of gear while taping today. The cable all balled up with mud still in it. Pushed the mud out and cleaned it, rewound the cable and it just spins. Tried putting a new drive dog spring in. No luck. Any ideas?


If it's spinning both directions, I would think the clicker roller is not making contact with the drive wheel or it's possible the nylon bearing is not making contact with the axle going from the dog wheel which is behind the dog spring and this will allow it the drive dog assembly/roller to pass over the sprocket driver assembly and keeping it in neutral.

Bill


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Tim0282 said:


> I have a Tape Tech Taper and it won't come out of neutral. Jumped out of gear while taping today. The cable all balled up with mud still in it. Pushed the mud out and cleaned it, rewound the cable and it just spins. Tried putting a new drive dog spring in. No luck. Any ideas?



Tim,

Check the set screws on the cable drum. From what you're describing I think the screws have lost they're grip on the shaft.:thumbsup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I will check. Thanks for your help. Hoping I can get something figured out. You have that "Oh No" feeling when it stops running. Rely on it so much.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

proficient Mudder said:


> If it's spinning both directions, I would think the clicker roller is not making contact with the drive wheel or it's possible the nylon bearing is not making contact with the axle going from the dog wheel which is behind the dog spring and this will allow it the drive dog assembly/roller to pass over the sprocket driver assembly and keeping it in neutral.
> 
> Bill


 I agree with ya there Bill, the only way for the cable to do that, that I know of, is IF the drive wheels spin backwards. That has got to be a brake problem. 

If the brake works properly, the cable cannot back up.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

The only part that spins backward is the hub that the cable winds around. It is really loose.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> The only part that spins backward is the hub that the cable winds around. It is really loose.


 Sounds like Muddaubber hit the nail on the head then. If the hub that the cable wraps around is moving. There is a set screw that holds it the rod that attaches to the dog. You can see that by looking at the scheamtics, if your not familiar with how it goes together. In other words, the dog is connected to the (dog shaft????), the hub slips over it and then the set screw holds em together.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Thank you! That is the same thing Aaron from Columbia said. You guys must have it nailed. Thanks a bunch! I will run to the shop and check it out. Had a couple bazookas for the last seventeen years and haven't had this happen.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

another thought (from a guy that can't communicate well) 

When you push the thing in and flip the lever, to re-fill. You are releasing the dog from the dogshaft. So IF the set screw is still grabbing, then the little piece that fits inside the dog (itself) is not returning(the piece that the dog spring is supposed to push), or holding the dog in place with the dog shaft. If that piece is defective, you are,in fact trying to run the taper with it set in re-fill posotion.

See i told you'll I have a hard time communicating. Sorry man, but I just don't know the names of them thar things.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I know what part you are talking about. And I do have to manually push that donw to put it back in gear, you might say. So I do wonder if that is part of the problem, too. Just had it rebuilt at All Wall in Feb. this year. Usually lasts a year or a little more when I get it back.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

One way to tell for sure,,,,, fill your tube about 1/2 full, stand it on end, then take your hand and start spinning the drive wheels while watching the dog. If the dog is jumping out and around the cogs, then the spring thingy is the problem. If the dog is doing its thing and the cable is not coming up, then the problem is the set screw on the hub and dog shaft.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

When I do that the hub that the cable winds around just sits there like a bump on the log.  So I am thinking it is the set screw. Well I'm really hoping that is all it is. The last couple weeks it has been leaving a dry spot about a foot after starting the tape. So wondering if it has been slipping and I didn't figure it out.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> When I do that the hub that the cable winds around just sits there like a bump on the log.  So I am thinking it is the set screw. Well I'm really hoping that is all it is. The last couple weeks it has been leaving a dry spot about a foot after starting the tape. So wondering if it has been slipping and I didn't figure it out.


 Sounds like it to me. If the hub is NOT moving when you spin the wheels, you have found your problem. (provided your dog is not jumping around the cogs)


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## justadrywallguy (Sep 10, 2010)

I have a tape tech taper, something is jammed where the tape slides up. was taping one day an just jammed up. dont know enuf about it to just tear into it. what could cause the problem?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

justadrywallguy said:


> I have a tape tech taper, something is jammed where the tape slides up. was taping one day an just jammed up. dont know enuf about it to just tear into it. what could cause the problem?


 
Your cutter blade might just have some paper or mud on it and its not returning all the way back, see that keeper ring on the end of the big spring on the side of the taper thats just held on, put your finger in it and pull it down and turn it half a turn to allow the ring to slip up the shaft were the spring is, this will release the cutter chain so you can clean out and change the blade if its blunt, then just pull the ring back down and clip it back in. Hope you understand that :thumbsup: Its a common thing that can stop the paper feeding.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Hey Justadrywallguy, I am less than 50 miles from you. If you can't get it, I'll meet you and look at it. Probably an easy fix.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

If you are not pulling clean All the way thorough to let the blade do its thing then chances are you have some tape build up. It only takes a small tiny piece to waddup like a spit ball, can cause all kinds of misery. Best go buy some metal dental picks to help aid in picking out things like this, at any hardware store. Like mentioned earlier release the spring tension and pull your blade all the way out. Check to make sure your blade is in all the way also and tightened down. It it is out just a little it wont slide back and forth like it should catching the tape. If you have a dull blade that will also fuzz up the cuts creating for more problems in building up in the slide.


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

I think canza has got your problem wright.I use a tool called a nu way clear jam.I purchased it from all-wall.it fixes the problem in a few seconds.I would not be with out one when taping with the bazooka


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Lloydnz said:


> I think canza has got your problem wright.I use a tool called a nu way clear jam.I purchased it from all-wall.it fixes the problem in a few seconds.I would not be with out one when taping with the bazooka


Best clean out tool around. Better than a bead cut in half. :thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

just to add my 2bucks worth
everyone is right on what to do,but when you get it fixed,make sure you have the triangle shaped cutting blade installed (double cutter)instead of the single blade,the dd blades cut both ways and TEND not to dull as fast.dull blades start to gum up the bazooka.it's just like the razors we shave with,you will learn when to change them.a bazooka jamming all the time is just one of the signs of a dull blade.
plus come to a complete full stop when cutting with the tube,if your sorta new with the bazooka:yes:


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Another thing one can use to clean the slide would be an old hacksaw blade they are thing narrow long enough and flexible. Make sure to use an old worn out one though so you don't do any damage.The worn out teeth are good at catching and retrieving any foreign objects that don't belong.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Another really good tool is pieace of metal band tie material. I know they use mostly plastic today, but if you can find a pieace of metal brick band metal, it fits right up in the tape slot, and its tough enough to get any clog out of thar!!!!!!!


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

I just use an old piece of paper faced metal bead that I cut to length with my snips and wrap tuck tape around for a handle. A one " knife works pretty good too if your in a hurry and dont have one made .


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

sometimes just using your taping tape works too,tear it so one side of the tape feeds up past the jammed side,once it is up past the wheel,pull on it hard,some times it takes 2 or 3 attempts.if that don't work try the tools the fellow masters mentioned,the steel band thing the capt n mentioned is the best one to keep in the tool box......plus always keep extra blades (more than one) in the glove box,some last for months,others for a few days so.......


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Another really good tool is pieace of metal band tie material. I know they use mostly plastic today, but if you can find a pieace of metal brick band metal, it fits right up in the tape slot, and its tough enough to get any clog out of thar!!!!!!!


That's what we always used to use...and it's only a short trip out to where the lumber pile was!


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

get the drawings on it and go from there


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

*Tape Tech*



Tim0282 said:


> I have a Tape Tech Taper and it won't come out of neutral. Jumped out of gear while taping today. The cable all balled up with mud still in it. Pushed the mud out and cleaned it, rewound the cable and it just spins. Tried putting a new drive dog spring in. No luck. Any ideas?


 Buy a real machine that is not that make would b a good start!!:jester:


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Did you check the set screw inside on the cable wind assembly? they can come lose... simple... should be a allen set screw.


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