# Rebatemate Trial by SlimPickins



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Okay then, I finally got around to using the Rebatemate from the fine folks down there in Australia.

I've got a lot of thoughts about this piece of machinery, but perhaps I'll keep my opinions to myself and just do a basic run-down of how it works, and maybe a few minor suggestions for improvement.

I'll have to make a good photo of the unit, for now I have cell-phone photos of the process.

It's a burly tool, and feels relatively well made (meaning, I didn't take it apart and look inside) It comes with a nice storage case, with snap in spaces for a wipe-down knife and vacuum attachment. It also comes with a CD and some papers but as it looked really straight forward I passed on the "how-to" information.

The dust extraction was near perfect, with only a little poof right as you enter the material to be cut. I was not wearing a mask, and at no time did I need to.

I was careful lifting the paper before applying glue, so as not to create a spot for failure, and I was more than liberal in my adhesive application. I chose to use spray glue (at the suggestion of John Clear) rather than have to deal with a brush and a bucket, etc.

While the glue was really tacking up, I went and hung another piece, or did some screwing.

Then, I meticulously worked the paper into the glue, starting at the farthest point from the edge of the drywall and working out to the edge. I used my fingers at the crease, and then the 2" knife supplied by Rebatemate for the flat. I'd round the corners off on the knife it were my tool, it seemed like they would tear the paper pretty easily.

Then........hang the rock.

I was pretty impressed with how the tool performed...it did everything it claimed to do, and I was not disappointed. At the end of this job, I was left with a decision of whether to cut into a full sheet to come up with a small piece, or piece it together.....I looked over at the Rebatemate and vacuum and decided to piece it in. I can see some definite possibilities for the tool and integrating it into my process. In fact, it's a shame that I have to send it on to PT 

I give it a big thumbs up for performance:thumbsup:

Here are some pictures:

Picture 1: Test piece cut (entering at the recess is a touch tricky, but no big deal)

Picture 2: Rebate created, paper pulled back

Picture 3: Adhesive applied

Picture 4: Paper stuck into adhesive and smoothed

Picture 5: A real piece prepared for hanging (12' long, gable wall angled sheet)


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Great review Slim! :thumbsup:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Good stuff Slim - Looking forward to the critique by the boys down under.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Good review:thumbsup: Just curious , it looks to me that the recess or rebate was put on the top of sheet?? Am I looking at it wrong:blink:Maybe I missed something Nevermind, I just looked at again..my bad


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

chris said:


> Good review:thumbsup: Just curious , it looks to me that the recess or rebate was put on the top of sheet?? Am I looking at it wrong:blink:Maybe I missed something


I think that's the whole idea Chris. Recess on top so the tape gets buried wheb your flats turn into bevels. :blink:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Just looked again and confused again with pics. Is the rebate made at the butt or flat?


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

chris said:


> Just looked again and confused again with pics. Is the rebate made at the butt or flat?


They use the rebate mate to turn butt ends into bevels. Looks like Slim in the photo cut either a butt end or an edge he cut off and made a bevel on it.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

chris said:


> Just looked again and confused again with pics. Is the rebate made at the butt or flat?


 
You can make a rebate where ever you want, Butts, ends, on scrap board to use it up, Top review slim, Cool machine isnt it, They make quite a deep rebate that takes a bit more mud but the end result is very flat seams. :thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

chris said:


> Just looked again and confused again with pics. Is the rebate made at the butt or flat?


Chris, the sheet that actually got applied to the wall (not the test piece) was a 12' long board, cut at an angle to finish the top of a gable wall. There's also a bevel on the flat edge to assist with getting the sheet in nice and tight (and to make a trim in place easier should that need to happen....not that it ever needs to :whistling2.

So, to answer your question, the rebate is on the butt, to turn the butt into a seam. The tool registers on the face of the sheet, and removes about an 1/8th of material, just below the paper.

If I were to offer any advice on the design of the tool, I'd really only have two items to address.



the "fit and finish" on the registry plate (stamped aluminum?) is a little raw, with some sharp edges. A quick buzz with a flap wheel or something would make it less of a hazard.
The vacuum attachment is fine and works well, but it could be a little more streamlined (something sort of like the vacuum attachment for the Fein multi-master would be ideal). As it sits now, the vacuum attachment points straight down meaning you need about 12" clearance below the sheet. If this distance could be significantly reduced, us guys who get our sheets stocked standing up would only have to lay the sheet down on collapsed sawhorse, then stand it back up, as opposed to lifting the sheet onto horses and then wrestling it back down again.
In reality these are insignificant details, quibbling really. For a guy who's extremely critical of tools and their functionality I don't have anything negative to say regarding this tool......and that in itself says a lot. On Monday, I'm going to bring one of the test pieces, the tool, and the literature down to my supply house.....who just happen to be a chain in the Pacific Northwest.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Interesting, Is there any video links to actually see the process? That would be nice to see if so.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

silverstilts said:


> Interesting, Is there any video links to actually see the process? That would be nice to see if so.


That would be where I come in Silverstilts. 
As soon as Slim's done with it, he'll be shipping it off to me where I will produce a video review for everyone to see the process step by step as well as the final result! :thumbsup:

Until then, RebateMate have their videos on their site.
http://www.rebatemate.com.au/


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Never mind found the video.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Great review Slim:thumbup:. Up until now it has only been us guys down south that have had a chance to use the RebateMate so it is great to see that you blokes finally have a chance to try it out. At times I got the feeling that some on here didnt really see it as a professional option. So it is fantastic that a respected member (Slim) has had the chance to try it out. I hope that the tool gets the respect that it deserves.
I understand that it is not for everyone (rockers will not bother with it) but for those of use that do the whole process it is a very viable option.
Once again congrats on the review Slim. And I look forward to the video review from PT. 
And I think we probably should all thank Nathan, because without DWT these opportunities would not exist.:thumbup::thumbup:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

gazman said:


> Great review Slim. Up until now it has only been us guys down south that have had a chance to use the RebateMate so it is great to see that you blokes finally have a chance to try it out. At times I got the feeling that some on here didnt really see it as a professional option. So it is fantastic that a respected member (Slim) has had the chance to try it out. I hope that the tool gets the respect that it deserves.
> I understand that it is not for everyone (rockers will not bother with it) but for those of use that do the whole process it is a very viable option.
> Once again congrats on the review Slim. And I look forward to the video review from PT.
> And I think we probably should all thank Nathan, because without DWT these opportunities would not exist.


Yes, I'm grateful for the opportunity, and a big thanks to everyone who make opportunities like this possible.:thumbsup:

I impressed a fellow tool-whore carpenter friend of mine when I told him "I'm the first person in the US to try the tool out" . I really like saying that! :laughing:

When I'm old and crazy like Harvey I can say things like "It was me and Jimmy Too-Tall working on the highrise gumball plant in Tempe or was it Flagstaff doesn't matter cause we were living high on the hog and them guys down there in Oz Down Under Australia sent me a state of the art drywall modifyin' device cause I was living large on the internet and like talking about stuff on the internet and it seemed like people were listening...well, I was the first person in the country to use that tool and I'll always have that." (No offense Harvey, I love ya!)


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Slim, you are a crack up.:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Yes, I'm grateful for the opportunity, and a big thanks to everyone who make opportunities like this possible.:thumbsup:
> 
> I impressed a fellow tool-whore carpenter friend of mine when I told him "I'm the first person in the US to try the tool out" . I really like saying that! :laughing:
> 
> When I'm old and crazy like Harvey I can say things like "It was me and Jimmy Too-Tall working on the highrise gumball plant in Tempe or was it Flagstaff doesn't matter cause we were living high on the hog and them guys down there in Oz Down Under Australia sent me a state of the art drywall modifyin' device cause I was living large on the internet and like talking about stuff on the internet and it seemed like people were listening...well, I was the first person in the country to use that tool and I'll always have that." (No offense Harvey, I love ya!)


Harvey is crazy







:blink:

But he's the only one I understand


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Yes, I'm grateful for the opportunity, and a big thanks to everyone who make opportunities like this possible.:thumbsup:
> 
> I impressed a fellow tool-whore carpenter friend of mine when I told him "I'm the first person in the US to try the tool out" . I really like saying that! :laughing:
> 
> When I'm old and crazy like Harvey I can say things like "It was me and Jimmy Too-Tall working on the highrise gumball plant in Tempe or was it Flagstaff doesn't matter cause we were living high on the hog and them guys down there in Oz Down Under Australia sent me a state of the art drywall modifyin' device cause I was living large on the internet and like talking about stuff on the internet and it seemed like people were listening...well, I was the first person in the country to use that tool and I'll always have that." (No offense Harvey, I love ya!)


 LMFAO!:lol::lol:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Okay, so today I hung bead, taped and coated the garage.

In my opinion, as a finisher, the Rebatemate produces a far superior product over the butt-boards. After coating two of the butt-board joints I found myself looking around counting how many more joints I had to finish that way....quite frankly it was miserable. I work with a lot of setting mud, and I get my first coat dialed in so the skim makes the work 98% finished. I ate up a lot of material and time coating the butt-board joints, as well as having to tote the 20" trowel around.

But, when it came time to coat the Rebatemate joints, it was a breeze. I used my 12" trowel, but I could have used a 6" knife. Yeah, they were a little deep, but not enough to cause a problem. And...I'm not the type to be nice just because someone let me test their tool. I know they value honest feedback...and I'm sold. If you want smooth walls, the Rebatemate is the best thing I've seen for making flat butt-joints. A little labor heavy on the hanging end of things, but once you're finishing, it's a dream come true....and you boys down at Rebatemate can quote me on that.:thumbup:

Picture #1: Rebatemate joint, with regular seam nearby.

Picture #2: Buttboard joint with regular seams nearby.

See the difference?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Thanks for the update Slim!
Glad to see the end result is worth the extra work in your opinion. 
I really look forward to trying it.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Thanks for the update Slim!
> Glad to see the end result is worth the extra work in your opinion.
> I really look forward to trying it.


I'm going to try my best to get it off to you this week, I'll send you a PM when it hits the road.:yes:


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Pic 1 looks sweet! Too bad I'll never so a rebated joint around here... hangers could care less about finished product around here to tell the truth :whistling2:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

cazna said:


> You can make a rebate where ever you want, Butts, ends, on scrap board to use it up, Top review slim, Cool machine isnt it, They make quite a deep rebate that takes a bit more mud but the end result is very flat seams. :thumbsup:


Definitely a cool machine cazna, and as usual you're right about the benefits.

I keep thinking of ways this tool could be money in the bank, and after coating today, I can't stop being impressed at how little work I had to do on the butt joints. It's revolutionizing the way I think about my work. 

I wasn't thrilled while I was hanging, but when it came time to finish my eyes were opened:thumbsup:


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

I've seen pics of the stuff you deal with Moore, same crap here, but commercial.

Definately looks to be a labor/material saver, how long does it take to shave and glue a joint slim? Spray glue def looks to be the faster option, but makes me wonder it the joint may fail somehow due to the adhesive over time, who knows...


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Philma Crevices said:


> I've seen pics of the stuff you deal with Moore, same crap here, but commercial.
> 
> Definately looks to be a labor/material saver, how long does it take to shave and glue a joint slim? Spray glue def looks to be the faster option, but makes me wonder it the joint may fail somehow due to the adhesive over time, who knows...


That's the thing, it takes a lot longer than just cutting a board to length. To really figure it out, I'd have to time everything. It only takes 15-20 seconds to use the Rebatemate, another 20-30 seconds to gently peel the paper back, 5 seconds to spray the glue, and then a good solid minute (at least) to make sure the paper is seated in the adhesive properly.

Usually, I only have to coat a butt joint twice, but I have to go pretty wide to make it happen (at least the way _I_ want it to look). That takes time and material, and now matter how good a job I do, there's still a hump on the wall. Not so with the Rebatemate.

Regardless of what it means for production time, the joints still come out flat. That's the bottom line, really. They come out flat, they're stronger than standard butt joints, they take less time and material to coat, etc. 

It's not a matter of whether or not I'm going to use the tool in my work now, it's a matter of when, and how much extra am I going to charge for the specialty service I am able to offer:thumbsup:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> It's not a matter of whether or not I'm going to use the tool in my work now, it's a matter of when, and how much extra am I going to charge for the specialty service I am able to offer:thumbsup:


:thumbsup: Best thing I've heard all day!
I couldn't agree more! :yes:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

SlimPickins said:


> That's the thing, it takes a lot longer than just cutting a board to length. To really figure it out, I'd have to time everything. It only takes 15-20 seconds to use the Rebatemate, another 20-30 seconds to gently peel the paper back, 5 seconds to *spray the glue*, and then a good solid minute (at least) to make sure the paper is seated in the adhesive properly.
> 
> Usually, I only have to coat a butt joint twice, but I have to go pretty wide to make it happen (at least the way _I_ want it to look). That takes time and material, and now matter how good a job I do, there's still a hump on the wall. Not so with the Rebatemate.
> 
> ...


Just wondering, would there be any reason you couldn't use a runny mix of setting compound to glue the paper back down? Or for the downunders :stuart: maybe covebond (cornice adhesive).


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Just wondering, would there be any reason you couldn't use a runny mix of setting compound to glue the paper back down? Or for the downunders :stuart: maybe covebond (cornice adhesive).


One of the builders suggested that when i was using it, But in a flash i thought, Mmm, Covebond is made for paper to paper bonding, If the damp is removed from the mix before it can chemically set then it looses adhesion, Which would happen with paper to paper anyway but bare board would be worse, I should have tryed it, But i didnt at the time.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Just wondering, would there be any reason you couldn't use a runny mix of setting compound to glue the paper back down? Or for the downunders :stuart: maybe covebond (cornice adhesive).


I thought about that too, I've also been thinking about using a little roller (like the kind for edge-banding on cabinets) to really press whatever adhesive into place. Here's the way I see it....whatever I put in there, it's going to be fine once I put hot mud with glue over it in that deep recess..:thumbsup: 

The good thing about the spray adhesive is it's fast, and there's nothing else you need to have around (like brushes and buckets, etc.)


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## jswain (May 5, 2011)

Hi Kiwiman, I'll check with the Rebatemate guys and report back. The inventors were very familiar with the drywall manufacturing process so they should have covered their bases on different options. In the end they replicated the same type of adhesive already used in the bonding of paper in the drywall manufacture.


Kiwiman said:


> Just wondering, would there be any reason you couldn't use a runny mix of setting compound to glue the paper back down? Or for the downunders :stuart: maybe covebond (cornice adhesive).


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> I thought about that too, I've also been thinking about using a little roller (like the kind for edge-banding on cabinets) to really press whatever adhesive into place. Here's the way I see it....whatever I put in there, it's going to be fine once I put hot mud with glue over it in that deep recess..:thumbsup:
> 
> The good thing about the spray adhesive is it's fast, and there's nothing else you need to have around (like brushes and buckets, etc.)


Tryed the roller slim, A little wooden wallpaper seam roller same as i use for no coat, And, Hopeless, It just didnt push it down or push the paper down at that edge very well, With the 2 inch blade provided you can push down and in towards the rebate edge which removed and air at this point to give no bubbles, A roller didnt do this, It tended to leave a paper bubble at the rebate edge which you went over and over with the roller trying to get rid of, And you tend to push harder which broke the board edges, One or two passes with the blade just works.

And as for covebond, My guess is the bare plaster with suck the life out of it and it wont work as well as glue which can self seal, coat both sides, Let it tack up, Then push the paper down. My guess is covebond wouldnt bond or it will bond in some spots and not in others causing bubbles, All just a guess.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

In the warmer months when we put cornice up to fiber cement (Hardies type board) we wet it down with a sponge first. It stops the sheet from sucking the life out of the mud. The same thing may work in this situation as well. I will do a test when I get a chance.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> In the warmer months when we put cornice up to fiber cement (Hardies type board) we wet it down with a sponge first. It stops the sheet from sucking the life out of the mud. The same thing may work in this situation as well. I will do a test when I get a chance.


Good idea gaz, How do you wet it, With one of those pump up garden pressure sprayers or trigger nozzel??


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> Definitely a cool machine cazna, and as usual you're right about the benefits.
> 
> I keep thinking of ways this tool could be money in the bank, and after coating today, I can't stop being impressed at how little work I had to do on the butt joints. It's revolutionizing the way I think about my work.
> 
> I wasn't thrilled while I was hanging, but when it came time to finish my eyes were opened:thumbsup:


 This tool would make big radius walls sweet:yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

chris said:


> This tool would make big radius walls sweet:yes:


It would seem worth it, just for that.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

chris said:


> This tool would make big radius walls sweet:yes:


Only thing is, I don't think you'd want to use it with 1/4 rock :no:

If they were really big and 1/2 would flex it, than yessir :yes:


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## jswain (May 5, 2011)

Bill Goss the inventor is going to discuss the adhesive preferences with Gazman and hopefully Gaz will update us all :thumbsup: since they're almost neighbours :yes:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I had the opportunity to talk to Bill this morning. Bill made some interesting comments about the adhesive. The water based glue that Rebate Mate have been using for a number of years is basically the same that the sheet manufacturers during production. 

Bill was also saying that they have been trying the 3M spray glue with excellent results. I mentioned that I have tried the Trim Tex spray glue, but in their testing found that the 3M has a finer spray pattern and will give better bonding. Other advantages of using the spray glue is the drying time and they availability world wide.

They also tried using mud but found that it wet the paper too much and caused it to crinkle up. The other problem with using mud is that it sets to slow, so you would have to hold the paper in place whilst it set. Then you also have the problem of getting the moisture out of the rock.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Not sure if we have any spray glue, I havent seen any, But then again, Ive never looked either?? That all makes sence about the covebond, Thanks Gaz.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> *Not sure if we have any spray glue*, I havent seen any, But then again, Ive never looked either?? That all makes sence about the covebond, Thanks Gaz.


Mitre10 and Bunnings, in the paint dept :thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

cazna said:


> Not sure if we have any spray glue, I havent seen any, But then again, Ive never looked either?? That all makes sence about the covebond, Thanks Gaz.


I'd be surprised if 3M Super 77 hadn't made it's way over there. It's everywhere here, craft stores, hardware stores, paint stores, big box stores, lumber yards, etc...


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

cazna said:


> Not sure if we have any spray glue, I havent seen any, But then again, Ive never looked either?? That all makes sence about the covebond, Thanks Gaz.











I always have a can of it in the truck, best bond of the 3m line... great for getting on zip strip/bead on in a pinch when you are getting noise complaints (we generaly use metal/clinch/mesh.. controversal I know!)

One little trick I've used in the past... If you've got alot of peeled paper on existing walls, sand the paper a bit, spray and wipe glue into it with a junker knife, keeps blisters from forming when you go to coat it


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I see that most seem to brake there butts on a stud or truss. Here aare some pics of what we do. Brake between the battens, then cleet with some short battens. Later we get up in the ceiling space and mud scrap rock to the back of the joint.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> I see that most seem to brake there butts on a stud or truss. Here aare some pics of what we do. Brake between the battens, then cleet with some short battens. Later we get up in the ceiling space and mud scrap rock to the back of the joint.


I don't get it:blink:

If your going to go through all that trouble, why not make the top piece one solid piece, instead of 2 separate ones. That makes no sense to me:blink:

Plus theres no way your going to get my fat arse to climb up in the attic with some mud.

I think your engineers have a drinking problem:whistling2:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

We have to get up into the atic anyway. Any room that has 3 Ceiling joins or more has to be back blocked. This is part of the Australian standards.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Rebate looks nice, almost though it was double later with a big gap:blink:
So you guys place butts in between studs, what exactly is back blocking, mudding scrap drywall on back of butt joint or adding a stud?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

We mud scrap dry wall to the joints, we have to do the flats as well.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Hey PT, have you had a chance to play with the rebate mate yet?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

gazman said:


> Hey PT, have you had a chance to play with the rebate mate yet?


Hey man, unfortunately I haven't even had a chance to take it out of the box...I've been so busy.
I'm going to try too this week. I need to make a video for everyone. Sorry it's taking so long. I've got allot on my video plate right now...not to mention my actual work.


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Hey man, unfortunately I haven't even had a chance to take it out of the box...I've been so busy.
> I'm going to try too this week. I need to make a video for everyone. Sorry it's taking so long. I've got allot on my video plate right now...not to mention my actual work.



My apologies....he's too busy running around for me...lol:lol::lol::lol:

On a serious note, let me know when your planning on using this thing would love to see it first hand!


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

getplastered said:


> My apologies....he's too busy running around for me...lol:lol::lol::lol:
> 
> On a serious note, let me know when your planning on using this thing would love to see it first hand!


lol! We've just been swamped with work...
I haven't even had a chance to try it yet..
And ya, it looks like a pretty badass tool!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Hey man, unfortunately I haven't even had a chance to take it out of the box...I've been so busy.
> I'm going to try too this week. I need to make a video for everyone. Sorry it's taking so long. I've got allot on my video plate right now...not to mention my actual work.



No worries PT, I was talking to Bill from Rebate Mate on Friday and he asked how it was going. I look forward to seeing your results when you get time.:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I had some bad shrinkage with the rebatemates i did, So watch it, I would give em an extra few coats from now on.

And im not so sure about the edge were the cut plaster meets the factory board, Thats a little tricky to glue and stick down and some spots can be a blister so as kiwiman suggested maybe when i painted it, it swelled up that spot which makes the seam look sunk??

To me it looks like delayed shrinkage, Which is an issue for me, One rebatemate seam i did i went back and coated again after primer and repainted, That one looks ok but the two in my garage arnt good, Very sunken and the 3 buttboards in the same garage look fine.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> I had some bad shrinkage with the rebatemates i did, So watch it, I would give em an extra few coats from now on.
> 
> And im not so sure about the edge were the cut plaster meets the factory board, Thats a little tricky to glue and stick down and some spots can be a blister so as kiwiman suggested maybe when i painted it, it swelled up that spot which makes the seam look sunk??
> 
> To me it looks like delayed shrinkage, Which is an issue for me, One rebatemate seam i did i went back and coated again after primer and repainted, That one looks ok but the two in my garage arnt good, Very sunken and the 3 buttboards in the same garage look fine.


So was it worth it:whistling2:

Man, if I went up to our mainly Croatian/Serbian/ Bosnian drywall crews, and told them they had to start using a rebate mate, this is all that would happen to me


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> I had some bad shrinkage with the rebatemates i did, So watch it, I would give em an extra few coats from now on.
> 
> And im not so sure about the edge were the cut plaster meets the factory board, Thats a little tricky to glue and stick down and some spots can be a blister so as kiwiman suggested maybe when i painted it, it swelled up that spot which makes the seam look sunk??
> 
> To me it looks like delayed shrinkage, Which is an issue for me, One rebatemate seam i did i went back and coated again after primer and repainted, That one looks ok but the two in my garage arnt good, Very sunken and the 3 buttboards in the same garage look fine.


YOU need to find a decent painter!!


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## jswain (May 5, 2011)

Hey Cazna, on your own house too  what compounds you were using?


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## grudy (Oct 30, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> So was it worth it
> 
> Man, if I went up to our mainly Croatian/Serbian/ Bosnian drywall crews, and told them they had to start using a rebate mate, this is all that would happen to me



Nothing wrong with us croats, it's mostly the other 2 that cause problems :yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

grudy said:


> Nothing wrong with us croats, it's mostly the other 2 that cause problems :yes:


All I know, is they were all born with hatchet hammers in their one hand, and a screw gun in the other:yes: (or is it a knife:whistling2

They do really good work:thumbsup:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

cazna said:


> I had some bad shrinkage with the rebatemates i did, So watch it, I would give em an extra few coats from now on.
> 
> And im not so sure about the edge were the cut plaster meets the factory board, Thats a little tricky to glue and stick down and some spots can be a blister so as kiwiman suggested maybe when i painted it, it swelled up that spot which makes the seam look sunk??
> 
> To me it looks like delayed shrinkage, Which is an issue for me, One rebatemate seam i did i went back and coated again after primer and repainted, That one looks ok but the two in my garage arnt good, Very sunken and the 3 buttboards in the same garage look fine.


I had similar issues when I first used it, and came up with a few solutions.

1: Tape the rebated joints after you hang the ceilings before you hang the walls. This gives it plenty of time to dry. (Remembering that the rebate is deeper that a normal flat)
2: Give them an extra coat. By taping them early they are already a coat ahead of everything else.
3: FIBAFUSE, Why? No shrinkage lines. Faster drying. Easier to bed into the rebate. With the fuse you can run your tape and fill the rebate over the fuse at the same time and it will still dry.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

moore said:


> you need to find a decent painter!!



lol


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## grudy (Oct 30, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> All I know, is they were all born with hatchet hammers in their one hand, and a screw gun in the other:yes: (or is it a knife:whistling2
> 
> They do really good work:thumbsup:


People always say we bleed drywall mud. :thumbup: It's funny that I never touched a trowel until I was 19 years old, after 15 minutes my uncle says " You come with me to work on Monday, forget about school". I should have listened, I went to uni for 4 years and put myself in more debt than I would have ever thought. :furious:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

moore said:


> YOU need to find a decent painter!!


YOU need to buy a desent bead roller :whistling2:



jswain said:


> Hey Cazna, on your own house too  what compounds you were using?


90 setting, Tape and second coat, Air dry top coats, I cant remember how many coats i gave it.

But everyone keep in mind i have very wet damp conditions sometimes and thats when i taped out, even tapered edge seams can shrink back on me and i was talking to a rep today and its a common problem, They even make the mud a little harder in the winter months, So im saying if your using a rebatemate, Coat it coat it and coat some more allowing plenty of time as its a deep recess.

Its in my garage with 4 big strip lights, Roller door tracks etc so im not bothered about it, I could re coat and paint again but cant be bothered, I cant even finish the rest of the house due to other work demands :furious::furious::furious:



gazman said:


> I had similar issues when I first used it, and came up with a few solutions.
> 
> 1: Tape the rebated joints after you hang the ceilings before you hang the walls. This gives it plenty of time to dry. (Remembering that the rebate is deeper that a normal flat)
> 2: Give them an extra coat. By taping them early they are already a coat ahead of everything else.
> 3: FIBAFUSE, Why? No shrinkage lines. Faster drying. Easier to bed into the rebate. With the fuse you can run your tape and fill the rebate over the fuse at the same time and it will still dry.


Thanks Gaz, Good tips.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Odd, does your fastset shrink much? Stuff we use Can get away with 1 coat setting, a decent coat reg and call most things done. Couldn't tell ya how many 1/2-1" offset bastard joints tied into existing we've flattend out with 3 coats of regular even. I should of taken a picture after this last job, we filled a nasty one on a light wall with regular, tossed a fan on it, next moring every inch of it was filled with "spider cracks". 2 more coats and perfection... or at least good enough for my house :whistling2:

Sounds more likely it is moisture issues like you said.


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

Time is monetized. Time and effort are measured in hrs/unit production and $/manhour and ultimately in $/unit produced. It takes a certain amount of time to perform an operation. Where and when each task is performed effects the amount of time it takes to complete the entire process that each tasks contributes to. We all know the power of repetition. We all know that limiting the amount of moves and the amount of interruptions in the rhythm of a process create efficiencies that contribute to the cost effectiveness of our means and methods.

In regards to creating rebates with the rebatemate, where is the better place in the process to create them … when is the right time?


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

Shop fabrication versus jobsite fabrication? Considering the investment of time it takes to mill the rebate, then glue and wipe/roll the flap of face paper, along with the time it takes to handle the material; considering who incurs the cost of the process and who benefits from the process, would it be better to assign the cost to material? Would it be better if the hangers were provided drywall with rebates rebated? Considering the positive impact on the taping and finishing process; considering the positive impact on the finished product; considering the costs of competing means and methods, where in the process should the costs be added and subtracted?


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Factory made rebate!:thumbsup:
Never taped this job but that's a sheet with factory rebated ends! £2 a sheet more.


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

All comments posted about the RebateMate in aggregate are a picture perfect example of the use of common sense in sensemaking. Thanks for that.

I've also been playing around with RebateMate means and methods since 2012. Having participated and contributed to the craft since the early 1970s, I am still in awe of the capacity fellow like-minded tradesmen have to creatively look at and solve problems.

Well here is my interpretation of making this wheel rounder:

After milling the rebate with the RebateMate, pre-shape the paper with the rounded side of a carpet tucking tool.

Hinge the paper back with as large a finishing knife you have

Protecting the board not being sprayed with a piece of cardboard, spray both the paper and the gypsum core with 3M 77

Run a 1/4 bead of hot melt glue at the hinge where the paper meets the gypsum core.

Bed the paper into the hot melt glue bead and 3M 77 with the carpet tucking tool ... using the rounded edge to work the hot melt glue into the hinge, creating an eased edge at the hinge, while setting the paper firmly into the 3M 77 adhesive.

This creates a tapered edge at the hinge that will facilitate less shrinkage and eliminates the cracking that occurs at the hinge due to shrinkage.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

Can you buy rebate mates in North America big guy


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

gordie said:


> Can you buy rebate mates in North America big guy


I've got'em Gordie ... [email protected]


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

800PoundGuerrilla said:


> I've got'em Gordie ... [email protected]


I tried the link doesn't seem to go anywhere ?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Looks like an email address to me.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

Your right gaz that's it I should read instead of just clicking lol tks


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

gordie said:


> I tried the link doesn't seem to go anywhere ?


First day back from Labor Day Holiday ... and yes, it is an email address. Message received ... message sent.


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