# Festool Planex system?



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Ok, I plan on purchasing the sander and vac as soon as it goes on sale ( thanks, Shane ) but have a couple of questions.....

Is the vac blast gate necessary?

Can you use the soft pads with the backing disc that comes with the sander? Or does it need to be replaced? A 3 piece conversion kit is sold, which would suggest that it does.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

The blast gate isn't necessary, just handy. It just closes the intake witch will give the filter a deeper clean when the autoclean kicks in, you can do the same thing with your hand over the intake. I would say the Planex pad set is a must, the interface pads will work on the standard pad but the dust collection is severely reduced. While your at it try and find some tech flex cable wrap like this, you can find it at electronics supply shops. Keeps the cord and hose together so your not getting all tangled up and catching on stuff.

Also for paper I would say either 220 or 240 granat is the best.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Thanks for the input, Sask.

I use 180 and 220 Joest at the moment. Are the festool discs comparable in grit size for the given #? 

Good idea on the hose.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Yeah I would say they are fairly close.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Scott, do you use the brilliant it the granat paper?

Never used the granat, just the brilliant 180 or 240.

EDIT: missed your post above...


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

I've only tried the granat 320 so far but I really like it, lasts a really long time and seems to be tougher than the brilliant next time I'm going for the 240. Before that I was using brilliant 240 with really good results.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Where are you finding the Granat for the Planex? I'm only seeing it for the small sanders.

Every other place I've checked only has Brilliant for the planex.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Granat is new for the Planex, I just had my dealer bring it in.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I agree with Scott as far as the soft pad conversion kit, I also think it's a must!! It was like night and day!
Naturally, because I was unexperienced with the Planex, I started with 320 just to get a handle on things, even with the 320, it was gouging like crazy! Dug right into my beads and butts.
With the soft pad, it completely changed the machine!
320 was like sanding with Cotton Candy, wasn't getting me anywhere. Instant difference. There's more cushion with the soft pad, where as without it, it's a thin paper on a hard surface. Doesn't float over anything.

Also, to touch a little more on Scott's comment where he mentioned "the interface pads will work on the standard pad but the dust collection is severely reduced"
The reason for this is because, if you add the interface pad on top of the existing pad, Your sanding paper will now be sitting higher than the bristles around the planex.
Thats why you need the soft pad kit. The soft pad is thinner, so it allows for the added width of the interface, that way your not sticking out past your bristles.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

"The reason for this is because, if you add the interface pad on top of the existing pad, Your sanding paper will now be sitting higher than the bristles around the planex.
Thats why you need the soft pad kit. The soft pad is thinner, so it allows for the added width of the interface, that way your not sticking out past your bristles."

Wasn't completely sure as the backing disc for the conversion looked the same as the original. I am used to the softness of the PC interface pads...so, I will be adding it to the order.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Square Foot said:


> Wasn't completely sure as the backing disc for the conversion looked the same as the original. I am used to the softness of the PC interface pads...so, I will be adding it to the order.


Wise choice!
And yes, they look pretty well Identical!
Just the soft pad's maybe a 1/4" thinner, to make up the difference in thickness of the interface pad.
I don't know why they don't just make the soft pad kit standard.
They have 50 different attachments/accessories for every product.
Be warned, neither the planex or soft pad kit include an allen key to change the pad. Festool will probably try to sell that to you as a "SysKey" attachment :jester:


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Ha! They used to sell this. The "toolie" had all the torx and Allen keys you needed for Festool tools


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Ha! They used to sell this. The "toolie" it has all the torx and Allen keys you needed for Festool tools.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

saskataper said:


> Ha! They used to sell this. The "toolie" it has all the torx and Allen keys you needed for Festool tools.


Hahaha! NICE! Called it!


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## robert seke (Feb 5, 2010)

Guys.. In comparing the Joest to Festools discs (or any conventional disc actually), the cut will be a bit finer. Due to the thick non-woven on the backside of the disc it will absorb some of the direct impact of the sandig grains and "cushions" the cut. Obviously, it also filters the dust extrememly effectively. It is a more forgiving finish, especially to those that are not familiar with the power sanders.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

well having a vac is a must I think


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

i have buy the soft kit, but the sand paper touch less the wall, i need to push on the wall to sand. i need to put 2 interface pad ? what i need to do ? 

thx again.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Yeah the soft pad needs an interface pad. That is what makes it the "soft pad"


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

on the standard pad have one interface pad. on the soft pad, i put 2 interface pad ?


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

No should just be one on the soft and none on the standard pad


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

What grit paper are you using? You shouldn't have to push at all just turn up the suction to get more aggressive sanding


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

I find the 240 way too fine and the 220 is ok I guess. The 180 is really working for me. It makes a big difference on my suction setting. I find for the 220 and 240 you need full or almost full suction but with the 180 you don't which makes it easier to pull off the wall even on the joint without gouging.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> I find the 240 way too fine and the 220 is ok I guess. The 180 is really working for me. It makes a big difference on my suction setting. I find for the 220 and 240 you need full or almost full suction but with the 180 you don't which makes it easier to pull off the wall even on the joint without gouging.


I feel in the planex club


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

mudslingr said:


> I find the 240 way too fine and the 220 is ok I guess. The 180 is really working for me. It makes a big difference on my suction setting. I find for the 220 and 240 you need full or almost full suction but with the 180 you don't which makes it easier to pull off the wall even on the joint without gouging.


I think it depends what kind of mud you use. I was using 240, now I'm down to 220. But still new to it!



Bazooka-Joe said:


> I feel in the planex club


:thumbsup: YAY!!


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

mudslingr said:


> I find the 240 way too fine and the 220 is ok I guess. The 180 is really working for me. It makes a big difference on my suction setting. I find for the 220 and 240 you need full or almost full suction but with the 180 you don't which makes it easier to pull off the wall even on the joint without gouging.


Hey, Frank. Used my planex for the first time today and also found the 180 to work better for me than the 220. Just curious, what type of mud you're grinding on? Man, I gotta say buying this sander and vac has been some of the best money ever spent. Makes life so much easier, kinda just laughs in the face of the porter cable.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Hey right back at ya Kevin ! This is what I use 99% of the time unless a homeowner does some cross border shopping. I'll use the yellow pail or box taping mud as well.

Probably the only good product CertainTeedCrap makes. For now anyway.

It's a nice mud. Easy to spread and a little on the soft side. When sanding with the Planex I leisurely walk down one side of the joint ,then the other and then down the middle. I do very minimal back and forth motions with it. That's what I'm trying to avoid by having this sander in the first place. I've got it down to one pass over the screws.

I start on a ceiling with a fresh disc. Because of the extra suction on the ceiling, after doing the screws first, the 180 will be smooth enough for the rest of the house depending on size and if you don't snag it.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> Hey right back at ya Kevin ! This is what I use 99% of the time unless a homeowner does some cross border shopping. I'll use the yellow pail or box taping mud as well.
> 
> Probably the only good product CertainTeedCrap makes. For now anyway.
> 
> ...


I think thats the mud that had a saying on the box that it s 

the best mud in the Joint


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