# ProForm mud



## mudslingr

A builder I'm doing a job for came back from Texas with 15 pails of ProForm mud. White pails with black script. Saw some in smisner50s' pics.
I was wondering if one of you American mudders might be able to tell me which Canadian brand it is similar to. 
I've used all CGC, 2 Kote, Machine Mud, Synko, Pro Roc and my favourite BMITJ.


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## joepro0000

thats the slickest mud! I been buying the boxes @ 7.20


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## Bevelation

Slicker than BMITJ?


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## moore

Many pocs.. Very dense .. lots of scratches on skim.. hard to sand. Does not hide tape very well... ,,, But my black top pro form comes from the north . The south may be a different story. Different limestone. I mix USG plus 3 with pro form on skim .. less scratches .. less pocs.. 


I make due with what they give me..And make it work. IF i can.....


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## betterdrywall

Sounds like a pretty dumb builder if ya ask me .. Hauling 15 pails of mud from texas to canada??? Did it have some white powdery looking stuff inside the pails? Anyway, Proform is much better than USG by a long shot, Even though I did get some very bad batches before. Had to sand and re-texture 2 big homes. The mud I use is better than Profrom. very little fall out on the texture grade when spraying and very smooth and clean to run when coating with the Lite grade. In Other words, Proform, Not the best, Better than USG, and definatly not worth hauling from texas to canada,,,he would have made more money hauling sheep. Everything is Bigger in texas ,,inculding the Sheep.


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## Bill from Indy

betterdrywall said:


> Sounds like a pretty dumb builder if ya ask me .. Hauling 15 pails of mud from texas to canada??? Did it have some white powdery looking stuff inside the pails? Anyway, Proform is much better than USG by a long shot, Even though I did get some very bad batches before. Had to sand and re-texture 2 big homes. The mud I use is better than Profrom. very little fall out on the texture grade when spraying and very smooth and clean to run when coating with the Lite grade. In Other words, Proform, Not the best, Better than USG, and definatly not worth hauling from texas to canada,,,he would have made more money hauling sheep. Everything is Bigger in texas ,,inculding the Sheep.


careful better.....your going to have 2buck on the next plane to texas talking about big sheep


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## Bill from Indy

i can't answer your question because I have never used any of the mud your wanting it compared to. I have used a lot of proform though...and to compare it to other "all purpose" muds available to me, I prefer it in an "all purpose" situation...usg green lid, to me, is still better for taping, but for t/b/s situations, I would use proform ap over usg

my preference, is to use green for tape and usg midweight or proform multi use for bed/skim

I won't put words in joe's mouth, but i think by slickest, he means it doesn't cake up like other mud and doesn't shrink as bad as green lid


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## 2buckcanuck

Bill from Indy said:


> careful better.....your going to have 2buck on the next plane to texas talking about big sheep


mmmmmmmm Texas long horn sheep 

Hey kiwiman and cazna, have you ever wanted to go to Texas,,,,,,,,,,,,,, for a weekend


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## raven

I use Pro Form allpurpose for taping and ProForm blue lite for coating. the multi purpose mud is a last resort.


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## carpentaper

Bevelation said:


> Slicker than BMITJ?


what mud are you guys talking about? i don't think i've ever heard of it.


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## SlimPickins

Originally Posted by *Bevelation*  
_Slicker than BMITJ?_




carpentaper said:


> what mud are you guys talking about? i don't think i've ever heard of it.


I think it stands for Big Man In The Jailhouse, but I could be wrong.


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## moore

carpentaper said:


> what mud are you guys talking about? i don't think i've ever heard of it.


www.national gypsum.com It's ok for the block coat,, after that find something else for the skim.too many pocs @scratches for me. very dense .Hard to sand..

All seams @ butts I tape with hot mud. Less call backs for [email protected] joints. A/P no matter what the brand Is trash these days . :thumbup:GO GREEN.
Anyone taping with ap [bucket mud] Is taking a chance .... cracked seams @butts... fall,, winter,,spring,,or summer.. [ bucket mud will not hold up on the tape coat] Not here ,, not anywhere... Just because the h/o s not calling and complaining doesn't mean there's not a complaint. Some throw it at ya some just deal with it.The ones that just deal with it,, are the ones that have bought new homes in the past ,,,and know what to expect .Young couple ,,,first new home,,,, watch out ,,, will pick you apart for a year,, or more..:tt2:


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## silverstilts

moore said:


> www.national gypsum.com It's ok for the block coat,, after that find something else for the skim.too many pocs @scratches for me. very dense .Hard to sand..
> 
> All seams @ butts I tape with hot mud. Less call backs for [email protected] joints. A/P no matter what the brand Is trash these days . :thumbup:GO GREEN.
> Anyone taping with ap [bucket mud] Is taking a chance .... cracked seams @butts... fall,, winter,,spring,,or summer.. [ bucket mud will not hold up on the tape coat] Not here ,, not anywhere... Just because the h/o s not calling and complaining doesn't mean there's not a complaint. Some throw it at ya some just deal with it.The ones that just deal with it,, are the ones that have bought new homes in the past ,,,and know what to expect .Young couple ,,,first new home,,,, watch out ,,, will pick you apart for a year,, or more..:tt2:


 That's a lot of B.S. I can take you to homes and commercial jobs done 30 years plus ago I did and I will tell you this they are holding up just fine no cracks period... maybe you don't prefill anything and you will get cracks. There are way more tapers out there that will tell you the same. The only reason for hot mud it for a quick job it wont guarantee any better job but rather just the opposite because of rushing things.


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## moore

I don't use ss 90 on my tape coat to rush things. I use it because It's stronger.
If the hanging's tight .no need for prefill . been at this since 85 ,, seen the homes taped with A/P .. seen the homes taped with hot mud.. huge difference..


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## cazna

Im sitting on the fence with the hot mud or air drying debate, 10years of hot muds, one air top coat, all by hand and little to no problems, 3 years of air drying and machine tools and a few more problems, What do i trust more?? Prob hotmuds, they seem more stable as FTD drywall and moore and a few other say, But thats slower, Next place im going to banjo hotmuds flats, Maybe hotmud 2nd coat box, Bazooka all purpose corners, It only seems to be the flats that cause any bother with air muds as its thicker, Prefill corner gaps with hotmud then all purpose or taping zooka is fine. I know some of you feicely disagree but thats how its been for me

But I live in a higher humid area, Other plasterer told me how podgy our MDF doors and frames seemed to were i live compared to a dryer area where he lives, He tryed to scrape off some set mud and tore up the MDF, That didnt happen as bad were he lived, So the wallboard must be the same. See the air dry mud problem for me, Hotmud will shrink if you dont treat it right but for me hotmuds seem more stable. Fans and dehmids are a must or they move in and heat the place then the trouble starts.

In austraila they seem to hotmud 90 thur the pump and zooka, Good if you have a crew, Im one guy so thats asking for trouble.


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## silverstilts

The hot mud verses All purpose, taping & lightweight mud is a very old long debate on this site. It is a very mute point in my eyes because most of us that have been doing this for years know what works and what does not. As far as prefill anything a dime will fit in in my opinion needs to be prefilled, others don't prefill unless it is perhaps a gap of 1/2" or so. Do it the way you want, I know I won't use that crap to tape with especially running a tube. Besides all that who wants to constantly have to mix up worrying about it setting up and the clean up is ridiculous. On job sites with no water who wants to haul 20 extra gallons just for mixing and clean up?


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## moore

whatever it takes ..hauling water .. mixing mud .. If the client gets a top notch finish , with no call backs a year later,,,,, WORTH IT..


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## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> what mud are you guys talking about? i don't think i've ever heard of it.


It stands for best mud in the joint, BMITJ. it is a good mud or all purpose mud. You can use it to tape and right up to skim.

But to each his own, some will say they like it, some won't, I don't mind it


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> www.national gypsum.com It's ok for the block coat,, after that find something else for the skim.too many pocs @scratches for me. very dense .Hard to sand..
> 
> All seams @ butts I tape with hot mud. Less call backs for [email protected] joints. A/P no matter what the brand Is trash these days . :thumbup:GO GREEN.
> Anyone taping with ap [bucket mud] Is taking a chance .... cracked seams @butts... fall,, winter,,spring,,or summer.. [ bucket mud will not hold up on the tape coat] Not here ,, not anywhere... Just because the h/o s not calling and complaining doesn't mean there's not a complaint. Some throw it at ya some just deal with it.The ones that just deal with it,, are the ones that have bought new homes in the past ,,,and know what to expect .Young couple ,,,first new home,,,, watch out ,,, will pick you apart for a year,, or more..:tt2:


Will half to take silvers point if view on this one Moore, sorry

I personally find hot muds dangerous to use (potential for call backs). I prefilled a house once with sheet rock 90. 3 months later I had to fix all the butts. The hot mud can cause spit lines. and here's why. Here's a actual quote from a USG representative, its from T & J website. Its actually a debate about mesh vs paper, but he talks about the differences between all purpose and hot muds. 


1) ready mixed compounds in pails or boxes, and 2) setting type compounds, also called quick set muds or hot muds, available in a range of setting times. As ready mixed compounds dry, as the water evaporates from the compound, it shrinks. On the other hand, as the setting compounds go through the hardening process, they actually expand slightly, just as water does when it changes from liquid to solid as it freezes.

As you can see he states hot mud slightly expands while it drys, while all purpose mud shrinks while it dries, which is what you want IMO

I can provide the link if you want, but I dont want to start the MESH VS PAPER WAR:furious:

I know the lads from T&J know which thread I'm talking about at T&J.


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## carpentaper

2buckcanuck said:


> It stands for best mud in the joint, BMITJ. it is a good mud or all purpose mud. You can use it to tape and right up to skim.
> 
> But to each his own, some will say they like it, some won't, I don't mind it


Oooooooohhhhh. thats just proroc. duh.


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## carpentaper

every time i tape with quickset i get some sort of new problem or just the same old ones. maybe its cause i'm kind of a newbie or something but the only thing i ever learn from it is that i like air drying compouds only. i will even prefill on the same day as tape with air drying if i have to.
i don't even like prefilling with quickset anymore. obviously my opinions are only gained from my personal experiences and methods/materials available. plus a whole lot of your guys experience:thumbup:


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## Bevelation

carpentaper said:


> Oooooooohhhhh. thats just proroc. duh.


Specifically it will have this on the box.








This tells you that you are using the best mud by far available in Canada. lol


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## Bevelation

carpentaper said:


> every time i tape with quickset i get some sort of new problem or just the same old ones. maybe its cause i'm kind of a newbie or something but the only thing i ever learn from it is that i like air drying compouds only. i will even prefill on the same day as tape with air drying if i have to.
> i don't even like prefilling with quickset anymore. obviously my opinions are only gained from my personal experiences and methods/materials available. plus a whole lot of your guys experience:thumbup:


I've had the odd air pocket taping with quickset, and I've never seen any benefit to using it to tape as opposed to using strictly taping mud.

Pre-filling with quickset is nice though. It's hard by the time you put the tapes on, and if the gap is bigger and lets some compound ooze out, you just scrape it flat. Just don't encourage anyone to pre-fill with Con-fill. That's just amateur.


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## gazman

carpentaper said:


> every time i tape with quickset i get some sort of new problem or just the same old ones. maybe its cause i'm kind of a newbie or something but the only thing i ever learn from it is that i like air drying compouds only. i will even prefill on the same day as tape with air drying if i have to.
> i don't even like prefilling with quickset anymore. obviously my opinions are only gained from my personal experiences and methods/materials available. plus a whole lot of your guys experience:thumbup:


I have been using hot mud for thirty years with no problems.
Maybe it is the climatic conditions? Or maybe the manufactures here make a better hot mud because that is the majority of there sales? I dont know.

But I do know that I would not trust any of our *local* air drying compound to tape with. I have used it countless times to second coat and that works fine as long as the weather is warm or you can leave it for the weekend to dry.


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## mudslingr

betterdrywall said:


> Sounds like a pretty dumb builder if ya ask me .. Hauling 15 pails of mud from texas to canada??? Did it have some white powdery looking stuff inside the pails? Anyway, Proform is much better than USG by a long shot, Even though I did get some very bad batches before. Had to sand and re-texture 2 big homes. The mud I use is better than Profrom. very little fall out on the texture grade when spraying and very smooth and clean to run when coating with the Lite grade. In Other words, Proform, Not the best, Better than USG, and definatly not worth hauling from texas to canada,,,he would have made more money hauling sheep. Everything is Bigger in texas ,,inculding the Sheep.



Not really ! He was spending time at a condo he just bought there and happened to wander into a supply store for the hell of it and saw this mud. Figured he'd let me have a try. Haven't yet. Probably won't. Stuck in my stubborn ways.:yes:


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## outalne94z71

betterdrywall said:


> Proform is much better than USG by a long shot, Even though I did get some very bad batches before. Had to sand and re-texture 2 big homes. The mud I use is better than Profrom. very little fall out on the texture grade when spraying and very smooth and clean to run when coating with the Lite grade. In Other words, Proform, Not the best, Better than USG


im curious what problem with the proform did you have to need to sand and respray? were you you using the light or the ap, pails or boxes?
i use proform light blue in the box to spray and have used it for about 6 years and never a single issue, some boxes need a little extra mixing in the mixing tank but that is about it and that was the same deal with the usg plus3 we used long ago, some boxes were pretty dry (will never go back to that stuff, sprays too stringy and felts up too easy on knockdown)


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## Muddy Perfection

moore said:


> Many pocs.. Very dense .. lots of scratches on skim.. hard to sand. Does not hide tape very well... ,,, But my black top pro form comes from the north . The south may be a different story. Different limestone. I mix USG plus 3 with pro form on skim .. less scratches .. less pocs..
> 
> 
> I make due with what they give me..And make it work. IF i can.....


To reduce pocks in your joints, pull your mud faster:thumbsup:. I always use the light blue lid mud (usg) to skim, and have very few pock issues.

My .02


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