# Rc 1



## hanger1974 (Sep 10, 2012)

has anyone attached RC1 with a Passload, intead of screw gun?


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

hanger1974 said:


> has anyone attached RC1 with a Passload, intead of screw gun?


qu'est-ce que c'est ?


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Mudshark said:


> qu'est-ce que c'est ?


French ??!!! Nice mudshark !!! You make my day !!


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

hanger1974 said:


> has anyone attached RC1 with a Passload, intead of screw gun?


Attach to what???



Mudshark said:


> qu'est-ce que c'est ?


You attach it to the stud then attach the drywall to it. It's sound proofing by limiting direct contact by a large margin.. The lower leg of the RC in the picture that attaches to the stud has perferations.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

It would have helped if he called it by it's name. I think that's why Mudshark was confused. Resilient Channel.
I use it in almost every single house I do.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

And no, i've never used a passload instead of screws..i don't know how well that would work..


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

qu'est-ce que c'est passload ?


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Mudshark said:


> qu'est-ce que c'est passload ?


It's Paslode. 
Cordless nailgun.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

If you're shooting ring-shanks you *might *be okay, but you've got to make sure your pressure is dialed right the f*** in. If you tear the RC you create a risk of failure.

Do you have a Paslode? Because, if you're thinking of buying one spend your money on a cordless drywall screw-gun that shoots collated screws. The time difference will be minimal.

Personally, I wouldn't use a nails to hold on RC. Screws are very strong along their axis, which is where nails have their weakness. That being said, it depends on whether you're doing walls or ceilings. It might work better on walls.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

machinemud said:


> French ??!!! Nice mudshark !!! You make my day !!


Tabernac/tabanak Machine mud, it's made my day, not make:thumbsup:

Go Leafs Go:thumbup:


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Ha ha ha thanks 2buck ! 
I lharn heverydey eow 2 rite in hanglish !!


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Est ce-que vous parlez francais machinemud?


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Est ce-que vous parlez francais machinemud?


Oui bien sur !


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

machinemud said:


> Oui bien sur !


Je dont parlent le français, mais je jouerai avec un traducteur.


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Ha ha ha thats funny ! Ok try this : Tu baise moins bien que ta soeur !


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

machinemud said:


> Ha ha ha thats funny ! Ok try this : Tu baise moins bien que ta soeur !


Non, mais je le vôtre. Comment est cela ? A-t-il travaillé ?


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Non, mais je le vôtre. Comment est cela ? A-t-il travaillé ?


Ha. Ha ha ! This is so wrong !!


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Vous devez admettre, la technologie peut combler de nombreux obstacles. Permet de parler de 2buck.


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Vous devez admettre, la technologie peut combler de nombreux obstacles. Permet de parler de 2buck.


Translation: you must admit , technology can overcome obstacle. Allow to talk of 2buck


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

tabarwit do colice, sucent mon grens mon tabarnac!! i worked for a french company for 12 years lol


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

DLSdrywall said:


> tabarwit do colice, sucent mon grens mon tabarnac!! i worked for a french company for 12 years lol


Ha ha ha ! Damm you guys are funny tonight !!


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Holy crap! We're all speaking french tonight!?
Why didn't anyone inform me of this? See what happens when I work late!? I miss all the fun...anyways..where were we?

Oui oui oui!
Bibliotheque!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Oh, pardon me, I didn't know we were speaking French tonight...let me rephrase my post:

Si vous photographiez anneau-shanks vous pourrait être acceptable, mais vous avez pour vous assurer que votre pression est composé du droit f *** en. Si vous découpez le RC vous créer un risque d'échec. Avez-vous un Paslode ainsi qu'? Parce que, si vous envisagez l'achat d'un dépenser votre argent sur une cloison sèche sans fil vis-gun que les turions collationnées vis. La différence de temps sera minime. Personnellement, je ne voudrais pas utiliser de clous de tenir sur la RC. Les vis sont très fortes le long de leur axe, qui est l'endroit où les clous ont leur faiblesse.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> Oh, pardon me, I didn't know we were speaking French tonight...let me rephrase my post:
> 
> Si vous photographiez anneau-shanks vous pourrait être acceptable, mais vous avez pour vous assurer que votre pression est composé du droit f *** en. Si vous découpez le RC vous créer un risque d'échec. Avez-vous un Paslode ainsi qu'? Parce que, si vous envisagez l'achat d'un dépenser votre argent sur une cloison sèche sans fil vis-gun que les turions collationnées vis. La différence de temps sera minime. Personnellement, je ne voudrais pas utiliser de clous de tenir sur la RC. Les vis sont très fortes le long de leur axe, qui est l'endroit où les clous ont leur faiblesse.


:lol::lol:
That made me laugh so much! Google translate's it to like pure french. Some of those words I would never use!
MachineMud's french is soo soo french!
Completely different french then what I'm used to speaking around here.
When I speak to him on the phone I have to pay pretty good attention.
And sometimes I'm just like "uhh....oui oui...:yes:"


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Vous devez admettre, la technologie peut combler de nombreux obstacles. Permet de parler de 2buck.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I'm going backward a little on this post. Brian, you said you use RC in about every house. Why? I think I know the answer, but... maybe I don't so I am just gonna ask.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Tim0282 said:


> I'm going backward a little on this post. Brian, you said you use RC in about every house. Why? I think I know the answer, but... maybe I don't so I am just gonna ask.


It just calls for it.
Helps eliminate truss uplift.
Most trusses are all on 2ft centres up here. So we strap it with resilient which helps eliminate truss uplift and also acts as a sound barrier. That's why some people refer to it as sound bar instead of resilient.

Because of our drastic winters up here, we can get some pretty bad truss uplift with the weather constantly changing.
Sometime's I charge extra and sell the contractor what I call a truss uplift system.
More or less I hang drywall angle (1x2 steel) against the top stud of the wall, with the 2" section facing the ceiling. So I'm creating a 2" artificial backing. I would hang that around all the interior walls, then when I hang my resilient, when I get to the inside walls, I screw the resilient into my artificial backing using baby screws, (or pan screws or zip screws, whatever you want to call them) that way the end of my resilient that meets the wall, isn't fastened to the ceiling, it's fastened to my steel which is fastened to the top plate of the wall. This way, it creates almost like a floating ceiling. My resilient is screwed to the ceiling in the middle of the ceiling but when it meets a wall, it's screwed to my artificial backing, this will allow the trusses to move up and down, but my resilient is not affected because the ends are technically fastened to the wall.
This will allow for quite a bit of flex and truss uplift. That way the corner tapes won't crack with the ceiling lifting. Because the ends of my ceiling are tied to the wall.
Make sense? It's a little hard to explain.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

just don't put no screws on the perimeters of the ceiling sheets that meet the interior walls. Allow them to float and let the wall sheets support the ceiling ends. No screws in the truss where ceilings meet walls, just let gravity do the rest.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> just don't put no screws on the perimeters of the ceiling sheets that meet the interior walls. Allow them to float and let the wall sheets support the ceiling ends. No screws in the truss where ceilings meet walls, just let gravity do the rest.


Ya, you can do that too.
I just don't like letting things float that much.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> It just calls for it.
> Helps eliminate truss uplift.
> Most trusses are all on 2ft centres up here. So we strap it with resilient which helps eliminate truss uplift and also acts as a sound barrier. That's why some people refer to it as sound bar instead of resilient.


I hate to burst your bubble here, but RC isn't going to help with truss uplift. Wood is going to expand and contract.....there is no way to stop it other than a 100% climate controlled area. If something tries to limit its movement, it will break that thing or itself.

The floating ceiling thing could work to create the illusionof no truss uplift.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> I hate to burst your bubble here, but RC isn't going to help with truss uplift. Wood is going to expand and contract.....there is no way to stop it other than a 100% climate controlled area. If something tries to limit its movement, it will break that thing or itself.
> 
> The floating ceiling thing could work to create the illusionof no truss uplift.


Oh, my bad, I should have worded that differently.
I said "helps eliminate truss uplift", you're right. It in no way does that.
That's all it does, is give the appearance that there is no uplift.
Doesn't prevent it from happening, the trusses will move, just will minimize the risk of the ceiling moving with it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

When/if I build another home..There will be no wood in the frame work!


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> When/if I build another home..There will be no wood in the frame work!


I would have to agree with you!


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

moore said:


> When/if I build another home..There will be no wood in the frame work!


Yep - and it would be straight too.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> Yep - and it would be straight too.


and fire resistant! :yes:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The fire thing is a bit questionable. While steel won't burn like timber the heat from a fire can cause it to buckel. And if that section is load bearing it will give way. Timber in the same situation will support the load longer before it fails.

The up side as already stated is that they are straight. Termites have a hard time eating them which is another plus.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> The fire thing is a bit questionable. While steel won't burn like timber the heat from a fire can cause it to buckel. And if that section is load bearing it will give way. Timber in the same situation will support the load longer before it fails.
> 
> The up side as already stated is that they are straight. Termites have a hard time eating them which is another plus.


Thanks for the help gazman, it's hard to keep up with the stuff Moose boy says, it's like a full time job

I thought the same thing when I was a young buck, till I talked to a building inspector well working on a steel building. He was talking average fire response times, types of fires and so on. The steel can cause more havoc than wood structures. The screws release from the walls when they heat up, and the steel will twist and bow more within the early stages of a fire, well the wood holds up better......


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thanks for the help gazman, it's hard to keep up with the stuff Moose boy says, it's like a full time job
> 
> I thought the same thing when I was a young buck, till I talked to a building inspector well working on a steel building. He was talking average fire response times, types of fires and so on. The steel can cause more havoc than wood structures. The screws release from the walls when they heat up, and the steel will twist and bow more within the early stages of a fire, well the wood holds up better......


Also, steel expands and contracts just like anything else with even moderate temperature changes. Ever seen lightweight steel siding change and buckle over the course of a spring day? Cool in the morning, hot in the afternoon, and that stuff goes nuts.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thanks for the help gazman, it's hard to keep up with the stuff Moose boy says, it's like a full time job


Hey!
I said resistant! Not fire proof!


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> and fire resistant! :yes:


It's all the other crap in the house which poses the fire hazzard... like carpet & furniture. Metal studs won't save you. Metal also transfers heat much faster than wood.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I looked into wood vrs steel framing a bit when choosing to build, Steel is still quite new here, Most builders only know timber, Steel fails faster than wood in a fire, Its 400 times colder and less sound proof than timber although its insulated so that shouldnt be an issue, What really made me stick to timber was the fact the NZs an earthquake prone country, Its not if, but when will we get hit and cut off, So i wanted a house i could repair and patch up with whats local, Timbers warmer, quieter, The say it can flex and spring back better in a shake, Like a tree, But if steel bends thats it, I used timber weatherboards cause bricks break and fall off and cause weight and stress on foundations, I can staple gun a tarp cover to weather boards for weather protection if needed, And weatherboards are lighter, You cant with bricks, I used plywood bracing around the outside framing for bracing for strength, So for me wood has more benifits the steel, I can live with some things not being straight and possible timber movement. Woods got more peace of mind for me, Its easy to get and patch and repair.


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