# Fail!



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Straight flex [original] .


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

......


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Thats why I have not used Straight flex for about 5 years.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Master bedroom ceiling 16' .. Living room ceiling 16' ...


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Crimped on bead ! It's never worked in the past ! WHY! would It work now??? I love these D/Cs pushing day tacos !


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Even this guy couldn't bear to look at it anymore!!!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> Thats why I have not used Straight flex for about 5 years.


Been about 10 or 12 for me, once no coat came out that was it.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

never had problems with the Straight flex ......because never used it :thumbup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

That looks like a fail to put enough mud on, wiped to tight or the mud type was lite or a cheap all purpose type. the way it looks to me JS....


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> Crimped on bead ! It's never worked in the past ! WHY! would It work now??? I love these D/Cs pushing day tacos !



I did a job 10 years back and metal bead I ran tapes up the sides, the look on the DWC s face, I got first pick of the jobs after that


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Fail


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)




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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)




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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

That straight flex original is good at doing that no matter what mud you used.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)




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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> That straight flex original is good at doing that no matter what mud you used.


I talked to D/C last night that said he tore out 200' of the stuff on a huge home and used no-coat to finish it out. He said he's surprised they haven't been sued by now! 

I can't tell you how many times I've walked on the job and see 2 or 3 boxes of straight flex sitting with the supplies .. IT's still sitting there when I'm done.:yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> I talked to D/C last night that said he tore out 200' of the stuff on a huge home and used no-coat to finish it out. He said he's surprised they haven't been sued by now!
> 
> I can't tell you how many times I've walked on the job and see 2 or 3 boxes of straight flex sitting with the supplies .. IT's still sitting there when I'm done.:yes:


Moe I used it and insisted that I get a bag of Durabondo

tell ya right now I always thought Straight F, and no coat is junk and only used for the angle that does not work softline style


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

strait flex has a roll called the big roll, I have used it to much success, I just add a little of the trim tex glue and it has never broken off..


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

spacklinfool said:


> strait flex has a roll called the big roll, I have used it to much success, I just add a little of the trim tex glue and it has never broken off..


I cant flash a straight line with Straight F or nocoat, nevermind gluing it

heard tapers brag how good they are, use a laser..... maybe what about uneven frame, 

been tape n for 25 years and it dont work for me


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> ......



Can see waves in Moe s pictures, stuff aint even good for Moores shed


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

spacklinfool said:


> strait flex has a roll called the big roll, I have used it to much success, I just add a little of the trim tex glue and it has never broken off..


Is It paper faced?


Bazooka-Joe said:


> I cant flash a straight line with Straight F or nocoat, nevermind gluing it
> 
> heard tapers brag how good they are, use a laser..... maybe what about uneven frame,
> 
> been tape n for 25 years and it dont work for me


What do you use Amigo?


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> Is It paper faced?
> 
> 
> What do you use Amigo?


softline .. 
only use no coat if its a baked angle with a laser, steel stud edge to see if there are no waves


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> softline ..
> only use no coat if its a baked angle with a laser, steel stud edge to see if there are no waves


Something like this ?


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> Something like this ?


like this cant find inside 45 degree pic
*
BEADEX Paper-Faced Metal Inside Corner Bead, B2 5/8 In. x 5/8 In. 135 degree Offset, 10 Ft.*

*







*


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Hate the original. The medium isn't bad....


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

About to to see how the bigger levelline works out. Made by nocoat and is 3.75 inches wide. Good in between size compared to the nocoat 325 and 450.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

You have to put it on with setting compound..... I've never had a problem.... as far as crimped bead goes... you have to tape the edges.... it's fast, squares up really nice with a clinch tool, and is quite durable if you tape the edge and first coat with setting compound.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Krsw85 said:


> You have to put it on with setting compound..... I've never had a problem.... as far as crimped bead goes... you have to tape the edges.... it's fast, squares up really nice with a clinch tool, and is quite durable if you tape the edge and first coat with setting compound.


Nice thread revival lol. Why the heck would you use a bead that needs the edges taped? You know metal bead is by far the worst thing you can use right? Please switch to a mud on bead... Just stick them and roll them with a corner roller to square them up.... No taping and no cracking! And if using trim Tex mud set then no denting or rusting.. and it's lighter.... And it cuts easier... And it's stronger... We aren't in the 80's anymore.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Krsw85 said:


> You have to put it on with setting compound..... I've never had a problem.... as far as crimped bead goes... you have to tape the edges.... it's fast, squares up really nice with a clinch tool, and is quite durable if you tape the edge and first coat with setting compound.


I've never used a clinch tool in my life. 

Try this with your setting compound ...Mix a half bag in a plastic bucket and let it cure for a day or so.. not just set up..but cure.
And Then take that bucket and flip it over upside down and give It a good slam on the ground. The hot mud pops right out in one piece !

Try that experiment With all purpose ..You'll have to chisel it out . 

Mix some hot mud In a SS Mud pan and let It cure out. Then give It a good slam. It pops right out in one nice chunk.. All purpose would have to be chiseled out.

You see where I'm going with this?

BTW The failed straight flex in my pics were applied with hot mud. The home belongs to a builder I now do work for .


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Nice thread revival lol. Why the heck would you use a bead that needs the edges taped? You know metal bead is by far the worst thing you can use right? Please switch to a mud on bead... Just stick them and roll them with a corner roller to square them up.... No taping and no cracking! And if using trim Tex mud set then no denting or rusting.. and it's lighter.... And it cuts easier... And it's stronger... We aren't in the 80's anymore.



I don't know what's going on with those houses you work on. But I never get called back for damaged bead!


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Hangars nailed the bead on in our shacks and we never taped them. In commercial we started clinching Rick's shiny 90's until about the mid 80's when we switched over to tape on. When we clinched we ran tape up both sides.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

MrWillys said:


> Hangars nailed the bead on in our shacks and we never taped them. In commercial we started clinching Rick's shiny 90's until about the mid 80's when we switched over to tape on. When we clinched we ran tape up both sides.


We have always mesh taped our nail on bead. Goes fast and holds it quite solid. Never have corner bead cracks.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Nice thread revival lol. Why the heck would you use a bead that needs the edges taped? You know metal bead is by far the worst thing you can use right? Please switch to a mud on bead... Just stick them and roll them with a corner roller to square them up.... No taping and no cracking! And if using trim Tex mud set then no denting or rusting.. and it's lighter.... And it cuts easier... And it's stronger... We aren't in the 80's anymore.


There is good and bad with mud on bead. It tends to follow the shape of the wall. So if you wish to get rid of a small crown in a corner with just bead, or line up two opposite edges at a wall termination to keep them square(for example in a wrapped opening) nail on is much easier for that. Also I have noticed tape on to protrude out a little more than nail on. Creating more of a bow along baseboard that has to be dealt with. Often times with hot mud and a plastering rod to get the bottom of wall straight. Not much fun. But tape on does hold well. Especially on commercial steel stud work.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

I've seen that a few timed, I find that some times I have to smash it a little to get it to come out.... usually something that had been mixed in too many timea so that doesn't help the expiriment. Usually scratched and what not.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

On my own jobs, I mud bead on a lot anyway, basically the same process, I would probably still tape up the edges... I don't enjow the jobs Im on now most of the time... It's stand up sheet rock, metal studds 15 or 20ft demising walls, pretty plane jane cheap box stores to start with... they are trying out a few inexpirienced hangers... so tje system is pretty much screwed to start with their, we are just gluing Trimtex, and mesh up both sides or the one edge on tear away L.


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## Krsw85 (Jul 20, 2016)

There's a lot of it to do, so it keeps me busy, bought 1000 dollars in tools this summer.... I really disagree with stand up board.... its fast on the hanging end... but thats about the end of its advantages, It does not save material, its not nearly as nice to finish, or look at when It's finished.... In the long run Im going all the way up every 4 ft instead of 10 or 12 ft.... its a ceiling height thing.... yea you end up with rips on odd ceiling hights, but I prefer to finish 2 good sheets layed down with A rip on top anyday....


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

I'm a hanger mang and I agree stand ups are for 1st layer and walls under 4' long 12" stand ups look like sh#t and finish like s #t . Had a taper who actually used to be on this site ask me to stand up 12ers on a Comercial build . Told him like I'll tell anyone "pound sand" that is not the way I board to bad you have to tape some butt joints . and as far as that goes on Comercial I have two layers of fire rating to do and the taper doesn't get a picky light check what the hell quit looking for the easy road is what I was thinking .


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## 1MrWillys (Aug 5, 2016)

gordie said:


> I'm a hanger mang and I agree stand ups are for 1st layer and walls under 4' long 12" stand ups look like sh#t and finish like s #t . Had a taper who actually used to be on this site ask me to stand up 12ers on a Comercial build . Told him like I'll tell anyone "pound sand" that is not the way I board to bad you have to tape some butt joints . and as far as that goes on Comercial I have two layers of fire rating to do and the taper doesn't get a picky light check what the hell quit looking for the easy road is what I was thinking .


Gordie,
On our under grid walls we would cap the bottom track to form the top tracks and then lift them in completed sections. We also would do the stud layout at this time before lifting and marked out windows and doors. Typically we had a 9' ceiling and our door were full height aluminum. We would then stand up 9' sheets being careful not to break sheet on the same stud. We even used an aluminum top track at one point with the studs crimped at the top and the board slide into a channel the finishers could work to. This kept the wall 3 3/4" all the way up with no build up.
That said, if we were building full height demising walls or corridors the board got layed down.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

I thought you would have a senerio where stand ups were called for . And to tell the truth I do stand ups on exterior but they get finished with stucco or hardy . In Alberta they had us do two layers of stand ups on hallways in some crappy rental buildings 108 8' stand ups in each hallway and about 60 split 12'ers on the lid two guys would get it done in one day great money .When the we're finished you could see the stand ups through the paint it was wood so you could also see the twists that would have hidden had we done 1 layer stand ups second layer lay down . I'm having a hard time picturing your prosess Scott just because I'm reading it I'm sure it would all make sense if I was there I learn pretty good yes


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## 1MrWillys (Aug 5, 2016)

This is from a lesson I built many years ago when I taught apprenticeship. Here's my layout but I never sprayed down door swing in the real world but I did use blue chalk and red and yellow paint. I should add the paint locks down the chalk and I used yellow instead of clear because it was easier to find later.









Then we'd shoot down the track and cap it with the top track and layout top and bottom.









In this picture pretend you've lifted the top track to the grid and screw it all in 1 piece.










My dad taught me this many years ago that with 4 sheet you can plumb the entire room without braces. I think you can see how much faster it is.


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

Hey Mr Willys, you really are number"1" ! 
I'm just a finisher and on occasion I'll hang something small. i do just enough to have the proper respect for those who hang drywall every day! But, I never get into any framing. I must say I'm very impressed by your depth of knowledge & your ability to know where to find specifications and other information.
The more I visit this site the more I realize I don't have much to add to the conversation. However, I certainly have enjoyed (most of) the post here! So, thanks to all who offer there insights! :thumbup:


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

I see now Scott that is how we do it too . We add a strip of type c to the top track that will meet the dryall so the lid gets fire rated . We would drop track down on all the layout type c the top tracks and put them up did a whole building before we thought to lay out the studs before we put up the track lol 65 units total . The next tower was a copy it went a lot faster for so many reasons.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

Just remembered we only boarded the top track when going to hat track . When going to concrete no drywall just shoot it on with the Hilti . It's been a little while since I did a big steel job


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## 1MrWillys (Aug 5, 2016)

Wimpy65 said:


> Hey Mr Willys, you really are number"1" !
> I'm just a finisher and on occasion I'll hang something small. i do just enough to have the proper respect for those who hang drywall every day! But, I never get into any framing. I must say I'm very impressed by your depth of knowledge & your ability to know where to find specifications and other information.
> The more I visit this site the more I realize I don't have much to add to the conversation. However, I certainly have enjoyed (most of) the post here! So, thanks to all who offer there insights! :thumbup:


Thanks Wimpy, and it comes from a desire to perpetuate the craft. Too me drywall is much more that gypsum board and taping mud. I've always had a thirst for knowledge and it still continues today. the one thing I'll never figure out is my wife but I still try. What is amazing here is the attitude not to help others. This protectionism is a failed concept IMHO and we should promote all who want to learn the trade. I'm a lot like my father but with more compassion for others which drives him nuts.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

This is how I make my corners so the board slides in to sew up a corner with the slide stud.

















So much for Rick's conspiracy? I'm back!


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## Aussiecontractor (Oct 6, 2014)

I do the same, but I don't trim the track. I just leave a gap big enough the sheet will slide in 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

Both ways are fine as long as the gap is good and the electrician doesn't screw you😆. But Scott's look so kleen


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