# finish drywall with no baseboard???



## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

Hey guys, I just got back from a house i am pricing with some details i am not used to seeing. Hoping someone can give me some insight.

-The main floor is a 9' ceiling height. 
-The concrete slab is the finished floor (Never to be touched by mud)

The measurement from the floor to the strapping right now is 110". with 54" drywall and my ceiling piece on first that makes it 108 and 1/2"
(top down) making it 4 and 1/2" from the floor to the bevel. And he will only put 2 and 1/2" base board on. So i would have to fill the bevel at the bottom, while getting no mud on the floor.

Ideally he does not want to have baseboard at all. he wants a 3/8 reveal between the finish drywall and his concrete floor. I was thinking stand the sheets on the walls up and use tear away bead for the reveal on the bottom. But i would think he would need at least 1/2" for expansion.

I told him i could give him two prices depending on which method i use. I am wondering what you would do in this situation? I think the reveal would look sharp. but i really do not want to get into trouble and ruin this guys house by only leaving 3/8" for expansion around the floor. Is there an easier way i am not seeing?

What would you do? and what would you charge a sq ft?:whistling2:


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> Hey guys, I just got back from a house i am pricing with some details i am not used to seeing. Hoping someone can give me some insight.
> 
> -The main floor is a 9' ceiling height.
> -The concrete slab is the finished floor (Never to be touched by mud)
> ...


These jobs can really cost a lot of money if they start nit picking everything. I would get some base board that is 3/8" to set the bottom sheets on and add in time for coating the rolled edge to hide the depression. Shove the top sheet up and put a rip in the middle and prefill it with hot mud. Exclude coverage of the concrete, but put in an add line item at double what you think it will cost so he will consider covering it himself.
Your question about pricing is subject to geographic region and labor rates and costs of materials. I would do everything possible to avoid a trim piece at the base line. You might also add a statement that you cannot be responsible for uneven floors.

Edit,
The only real way to cover these floors is with Masonite. Make it clear that unless Masonite is used you cannot be liable for rips and tears in temporary floor protection.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

be useless to give you pricing so everyone on the net can see it,


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

You could start walls with a half sheet rip. You'd have an extra seam but you wouldn't have to fill a bevel at the floor, just spot the screws. Charge double labor for walls.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

It's not wise to let the board touch the concrete . It really needs to be a 1/4 - 1/2 above the concrete floor. [if i'm reading you right.]


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> be useless to give you pricing so everyone on the net can see it,


.60 a ft . Labor . [hang and finish] I'd dance all over It! Any way he want's It done !

And no mud on the floor! :thumbsup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> .60 a ft . Labor . [hang and finish] I'd dance all over It! Any way he want's It done !
> 
> And no mud on the floor! :thumbsup:


wonder if you have competition lots of, but thats American pricing not Canuck


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> wonder if you have competition lots of, but thats American pricing not Canuck


Competition? I've heard that term before.


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

All labor and material 2.00 sqft...i live in the dirty south


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

I would not go near it for under 5 bucks


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

i'ed say 7 bucks a foot for bottom bead jest laber. use jam-x or L-beed whatever you call it. jam-x is more foregiving. 

use trim tex tear away only if got skills of 40 year old border.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

give him your price for everything, then do the bottom at a time and material rate.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> You could start walls with a half sheet rip. You'd have an extra seam but you wouldn't have to fill a bevel at the floor, just spot the screws. Charge double labor for walls.


 This exactly:thumbsup: ! Get the bottom good and chalkline in the top if needed. Ive done a few of these but the finish floor was poured after drywall. The cement floor was only around 2" deep on top of existing foundation. If they are planning to pour floor after drywalled make sure to put in extra for cement splatter on walls.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> Hey guys, I just got back from a house i am pricing with some details i am not used to seeing. Hoping someone can give me some insight.
> 
> -The main floor is a 9' ceiling height.
> -The concrete slab is the finished floor (Never to be touched by mud)
> ...


 You will have to mask the floor off with rosin paper no matter what. No big deal, we do that on all of our jobs. Why not just use 4'x12' rock and cut the bevel off the bottom of the sheet? you will then have a band at just under 8' off the floor. Otherwise fill the lower bevel. We have had many jobs where we have had to either flat tape or L metal along the finished concrete floors with no baseboard whatsoever.. Sucks, but that was the look the owner wanted.


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## P.E.I.Taper (May 4, 2015)

I told him $7,000 labour for hang and finish. Out of his price range... "by quite a bit" mean while the house is almost down town on the waterfront building a house between two doctors homes. Oh well, worry about the jobs you do get. Not the ones you dont!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Sounds like champagne taste on a beer budget. People want the extras but expect the tradies to work for peanuts.


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Good for you P.E.I. for not letting yourself get the shaft. 
Some GC's think, why pay the trim carpenter when you can scam the drywaller into doing it for free.
Congrats on a good decision.


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

gazman said:


> Sounds like champagne taste on a beer budget. People want the extras but expect the tradies to work for peanuts.


 I have found that quite often people with money have a tough time parting with it. They demand a high dollar for what they do but expect others to work for next to nothing.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

D A Drywall said:


> I have found that quite often people with money have a tough time parting with it. They demand a high dollar for what they do but expect others to work for next to nothing.


I have found that people with a lot of money who have never done physical labor do not value it. They will spend their money foolishly on the most expensive refrigerator or latest overpriced kitchen gadget or lighting fixture. But to the craftsman who put it all together, they go the cheapest route possible. Often this decision costs them dearly in the long run.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

How are these special people gonna clean there floors ?

I guess if they paint the walls dirty chit brown ...No base board should work out fine. :whistling2:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

P.E.I.Taper said:


> I told him $7,000 labour for hang and finish. Out of his price range... "by quite a bit" mean while the house is almost down town on the waterfront building a house between two doctors homes. Oh well, worry about the jobs you do get. Not the ones you dont!


thing is you are right about not worrying about it


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## prwint (Dec 28, 2014)

View attachment 21922

This is a finishing detail that is becoming quite popular in Victoria BC. I use Trim Tex 1/2" X3/4" shadow line for the flush mount base board (this gives me a 1/4" lap behind to function as a slip joint) and 1/2"X1/2" Shadow line around doors and windows continue the theme. This house had 13,000 ft of board. Total cost Materials and Labour was just shy of $30,000. If memory serves $7000 was for the shadow detail. I had the carpenters attach a strip of wood at the height of the baseboard plus 1/2" ontop of finished flooring height. that way the boardmen could hang the walls normally and router off the precise amount. I could then place my shadowline tight to the bottom of the board.


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

That's a cool look Pete. But I imagine you spend a lot of time on your knees. Somebody needs to pay for that.


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## prwint (Dec 28, 2014)

Good One!! it is not easy on your body thats for sure


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