# cracked ceiling joints



## croozer (Jun 7, 2009)

<P>Hey all. Having a little problem here which I would appreciate some input/opinions about. I have been using usg taping compound and usg paper tape</P>
<P> through my zook for the last 5-6 years with absolutely no problems what so ever. I have recently had 2 jobs where the ceiling joints in the garage have developed cracking. The rest of the house is 100% fine. Both jobs where taped in the summer/ very early Autumn, with ideal air temps. The cracking has occurred in the winter, some 4-5 months later. We have had a very cold winter by our normal standards, with plenty of nights dropping to -5 centigrade, or 20 f. Given that the rest of the house is insulated and heated, and has experienced no cracking, even though the compound came straight out of the same bucket, could I be onto something here in thinking that because the garages are not heated or insulated, then perhaps the warmish days dropping to freezing nights may be causing sufficient movement/stress to create this situation? Any opinions/input would be appreciated, cheers Croozer.</P>
<P> </P>


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

I bought a home 4 years ago built in 2002, and have noticed excessive cracking in my garage and arrived at the same answer. I do have one crack in my Living room vault, but nothing like my uninsulated garage. Insulation is one of my next projects.


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

This has actually happened in my own garage. It is insulated and heated. I do have a humidity problem though in the winter with snow melt. It averages -25 C to -35 C in the winter here so quite cold. Heard a loud snap one day from the cold and this is the result (posted below). 

View attachment 22409


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

That used to be a very common problem here Crooz, timber battens and no insulation = disaster, no matter what tape or what compound you use makes no difference, tell them to back block it before you repair it.
If it was back blocked originally and still failed it could be from them only gluing the outside edge of the block and not over the centre, I've seen them do that and it doesn't hold (on butts anyway).
Roof type has an effect on it as well, dark coloured iron or low pitched roof doesn't help, the cracks can be quite severe from what I've seen in the past, with the majority of builders using metal rondo battens now I just don't see that problem anymore.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

drywall ! Gotta love It!! :thumbsup:


It's like a Woman ! You just never know what the **** It's gonna do!!


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## sheep (May 11, 2015)

Yeah, we've had problems with the tape on outdoor/garage ceilings here. Particularly ones that aren't insulated. Insulation seems to help a lot, even if its just thin stuff. Have been told that the insulation helps keep condensation from dripping from the room to the sheet, not sure how big of an issue condensation is in a ceiling though.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

wood is served to builder wet, then it needs board on it today or it warps, temps is a big thing with wood, rain freeze foundations setting tell em Bazooka Joe sez: learn to build or Mr. Joe will send you a bill for teaching ya

















sorry Moore


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> wood is served to builder wet, then it needs board on it today or it warps, temps is a big thing with wood, rain freeze foundations setting tell em Bazooka Joe sez: learn to build or Mr. Joe will send you a bill for teaching ya
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Joe,
When lumber is milled and seasoned it is below the 20% moisture content required by industry standards. However, when brought outside the mill depending on time of year it can, and does get wet. Homes framed in the Winter and covered in the early Spring will see hu8ge shrinkage come Summer.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

still has to be boarded right away


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

MrWillys said:


> Joe,
> When lumber is milled and seasoned it is below the 20% moisture content required by industry standards. However, when brought outside the mill depending on time of year it can, and does get wet. Homes framed in the Winter and covered in the early Spring will see hu8ge shrinkage come Summer.


The mill /kiln are allowed to send out lumber with 8-9 percent moisture content. From the mill to the jobsite you can jump that number up.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

moore said:


> The mill /kiln are allowed to send out lumber with 8-9 percent moisture content. From the mill to the jobsite you can jump that number up.


 Kiln dried is different than seasoned and you are correct that it's moisture content can be that low. However, building code says it must be below 20% which it is. Large production jobs use seasoned over kiln dried due to the added cost. Some smaller builder may used kiln simply for bragging rights, or a belief that it stays straighter afterwards which it most likely does unless it gets wet and warps. The shrinkage is what really hurts our industry due to the movement caused by the drying out. Seasonal changing can have a similar effect, but not as profound as when wet lumber gets wrapped water tight and we rock it before it completely dries.


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