# Repairing a bad tape job - tips?



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

Hi,

I am helping out my wife's company at the moment and have no real background in drywalling. But, with the help of this forum I have managed to get inspired and buy a full set of Columbia tools for her guys. Training is underway, but we have a way to go.

We are about to start a job repairing someone else's poor work, I have attached pictures. 

What it really comes down to is, should I be breaking out the automatic taper and flat boxes to attack this kind of work, or is it better to leave my guys working with the hand tools? 

They are just getting their head round the new toys and have not used them in anger yet - only on the training wall that I have constructed.

Also, how aggressive should we be on "cutting" the existing work back to find a good starting point?

Sorry for being an amatuer, but I am fighting for our business. Any help is much appreciated.

PS. We some of the most expensive labor in the world. Min wage is nearly 27USD per hour. So any time savings are like gold!!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I personaly would hand finish that type of work. Use fiba fuse, it sits nice and flat. As far as how far to go, thats an on site judgement call


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

You cant really make a silk purse out of a sows ear, Thats tough to repair being painted, It wont sand or cut back to well so all you can really do is smooth edges etc by hand, Anything else will be meesy and time consuming and it sounds like that moneys not there for you.

So you in Norway, Hows it there?? One thing i really want to see before im gone is this.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fram

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fram_Museum

That little ship and its construction and story amazes me, The worlds strongest wooden ship, Your not far, Go have a look for me please.

Sorry to go off topic, Good luck with the repair and the new tools, Oh, Hows the sheep???


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

That just twigged an old memory, I was at that museum when I was 11, don't remember much but I do recognize it. My grandmother took me to Norway for a month or so in 87 I think and I really want to go back, its a beautiful country but stupidly expensive to travel to.

As far as repairing those problems leave the auto tools at home they will do nothing for you there, what you need is a roll of FibaFuse if you can find it, a bag of 30 min mud, a really good light (festools sys light is awesome) for finding all the flaws, a 5 or 6 inch knife and a pan, and a 12 inch knife or trowel whichever you prefer.

Go around and tape all the cracks and touch up any flaws using thin coats, and the mud will bubble (fisheyes we call them) wherever you go over paint, its just a fact of life. You can try leaving the mud on for a couple minutes then wiping it all off and mudding it again, sometimes that helps reduce the fisheyes, but the best solution I find it to get it the best you can then prime it and fix the fisheyes after.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

KiwiInNorway said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am helping out my wife's company at the moment and have no real background in drywalling. But, with the help of this forum I have managed to get inspired and buy a full set of Columbia tools for her guys. Training is underway, but we have a way to go.
> 
> ...


 You got Mexicans in Norway???? :blink:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

That's common with wood frame...should have brought that butt over the door about mid way [on a stud!!]


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

no-coat ??:blink:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I dunno, I'm seeing a bunch of structural issues and a bad paint job. With the exception of the cracked butt above the header...which should have been addressed the way Mr. moore stated.

The wall with all the flashing..........maybe bad taping, maybe bad paint job. The cracking bead? Sub-standard metal application and possible framing issue. The crack in the angle? Truss uplift. The bulging no-coat/paper tape in the off-angle? More wood movement.....don't blame the tapers for everything.....

And........I wouldn't break out auto tools on a job like this.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

The bead in stairway looks like its "lacking in backing" but still could have been taped, or a tape on or vinyl bead would work better. Looks like the heat vent is leaking as well.. What texture does it have or is it smooth? I would maybe use the angle tools if alot of the angles need retaped and coated,, boxes prolly not unless its a smoothwall job and the joints are hollow or need a good split. If textured,, ( spray Im guessing) palm sanders and lots of plastic.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

chris said:


> The bead in stairway looks like its "lacking in backing" but still could have been taped, or a tape on or vinyl bead would work better. Looks like the heat vent is leaking as well.. What texture does it have or is it smooth? I would maybe use the angle tools if alot of the angles need retaped and coated,, boxes prolly not unless its a smoothwall job and the joints are hollow or need a good split. If textured,, ( spray Im guessing) palm sanders and lots of plastic.


Chris, you ever run into these areas above stairs where the carpenters cantilever half the floor to save on head height (to meet code). I've seen closets where half of it is hanging out into no man's land. That's a bit of unsupported weight.....and that's what that cracked bead made me remember. There have been a couple over the years that looked like they would fall apart at some point.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> Chris, you ever run into these areas above stairs where the carpenters cantilever half the floor to save on head height (to meet code). I've seen closets where half of it is hanging out into no man's land. That's a bit of unsupported weight.....and that's what that cracked bead made me remember. There have been a couple over the years that looked like they would fall apart at some point.


 We will add backing if wood or something is handy for the sheetrocking,,not always. Its pretty common on remodels and basement finishes out here. Ive always thought it was pretty half arse my self.


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## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

cazna said:


> You cant really make a silk purse out of a sows ear, Thats tough to repair being painted, It wont sand or cut back to well so all you can really do is smooth edges etc by hand, Anything else will be meesy and time consuming and it sounds like that moneys not there for you.
> 
> So you in Norway, Hows it there?? One thing i really want to see before im gone is this.
> 
> ...


The sheep in Norway are a little disappointing. Too hairy and not enough of them!

Will make an effort next time I am in Oslo to check out the museum.

Thanks for your insight on the job.


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## jackleg (Jan 22, 2008)

the crack over door will never be fixed permanently.. the corner bead over header was not fastened properly... butt seam should have tape removed, then retaped.... good luck....


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

chris said:


> We will add backing if wood or something is handy for the sheetrocking,,not always. Its pretty common on remodels and basement finishes out here. Ive always thought it was pretty half arse my self.


Yeah, most times when they frame them in there are 2 little hunks of 2x4 cut on the proper angles, and 2 nails holding them on......nails through an angled sliver of wood into the BCI. Really a shoddy construction method. It's better to rip some stock on a bevel and really fasten it on there. But that still doesn't solve the problem of the cantilevered weight.........that will crack given enough time.

Pardon me, I'm just babbling and thinking with my fingers.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Yeah, most times when they frame them it there are 2 little hunks of 2x4 cut on the proper angles, and 2 nails holding them on......nails through an angled sliver of wood into the BCI. Really a shoddy construction method. It's better to rip some stock on a bevel and really fasten it on there. But that still doesn't solve the problem of the cantilevered weight.........that will crack given enough time.
> 
> Pardon me, I'm just babbling and thinking with my fingers.


 but your right!:yes:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

KiwiInNorway said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am helping out my wife's company at the moment and have no real background in drywalling. But, with the help of this forum I have managed to get inspired and buy a full set of Columbia tools for her guys. Training is underway, but we have a way to go.
> 
> ...



looks like they used the wrong mud for taping along and finishing with lite mud and sanding to much. I suggest pulling every tape and bead that's loose off and replacing with paper tape not fiber type proper taping type mud not quick setting types like some of this guys and re-coat everything that needs it. Remember to sand all areas to be re-coated first with coarse sandpaper 

:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> looks like they used the wrong mud for taping along and finishing with lite mud and sanding to much. I suggest pulling every tape and bead that's loose off and replacing with paper tape not fiber type proper taping type mud not quick setting types like some of this guys and re-coat everything that needs it. Remember to sand all areas to be re-coated first with coarse sandpaper
> 
> :thumbup:










SILVER STILTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your slacking in your duties, someone has hijacked Mudstars account.

He's being helpful and nice in this post, he even got a thank you:blink:


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

moore said:


> no-coat ??:blink:


haha i've seen that a million times thats called a bat taper lol 

this is the bat http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Trowels/CornerPro-Drywall-Bat-Knife.html

ohh your not supplying no-coat...break out the bat.. funny how fast they buy a box:whistling2:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

DLSdrywall said:


> haha i've seen that a million times thats called a bat taper lol
> 
> this is the bat http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Trowels/CornerPro-Drywall-Bat-Knife.html
> 
> ohh your not supplying no-coat...break out the bat.. funny how fast they buy a box:whistling2:


Bullnosed houses look better using the "bat" coving knife for inside offsets :thumbsup: and if your really talented you can sell then all the inside angles coved for large dinero and make the house look really tricked. 

But I use mine mostly for bucket cleaning :blink:


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

had some experience with inside bull back in the mid 80's,never tried it since.did ahome for the owner of local lumber yard,he ordered outside an inside bull ,no adapters.they were alot of work for very little effect in my opinion.different effect use outside bull crease the paper back,tape it in as inside corner.


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