# question on a few walls....



## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

i have a job to start that is all walls.... 9ft, 54inch board is hung already.. 14 ft long at most.. walls are in four different rooms in a 10yr old home..they adjoin existing ceilings and walls in inside corners.. only two inside corners of new board and 4 butt joints... its thursday and needs done by mon. i dont like working sundays... how would you guys attempt it with material and step by step procedure...... I use proform products..


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## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

smooth finish


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Mesh, 90, Skim.
Wouldn't be proud of it. But it would be done by Monday and you wouldn't need to work sunday.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Would you just like me to come and do it for you?:whistling2:

You're going to be using set mud if you don't want to work Sunday. I suppose you could use air dry mud, tape Thursday, top Friday, skim Saturday, sand and touch up Monday.

Or, use set mud and tape/top/skim on Thursday, sand and touch-up on Friday and have the weekend off!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Mesh, 90, Skim.
> Wouldn't be proud of it. But it would be done by Monday and you wouldn't need to work sunday.


You can paper tape the angles though, and Fiba-fuse the butts and use glue in your set mud.......it'll be bomber.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

That's actually what I was thinking too but it seemed like too much typing. I haven't been on DWT too much these last few weeks. Tired.
I'd paper my angles first thing thursday morning, then run some flats, which ever way you'd like, FibaFuse is pretty awesome, dries fast as well. Block coat your FibaFuse in the afternoon with regular mud. That's Thursday. Friday, run the angles again first thing, (they're now done) and then give a final skim and tie everything in.
Sand Saturday.
Or do like Slim said and take the whole weekend off.


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## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

SlimPickins said:


> Would you just like me to come and do it for you?:whistling2:
> 
> You're going to be using set mud if you don't want to work Sunday. I suppose you could use air dry mud, tape Thursday, top Friday, skim Saturday, sand and touch up Monday.
> 
> Or, use set mud and tape/top/skim on Thursday, sand and touch-up on Friday and have the weekend off!


Wish you could do it and I could help..... im in the learning process.. but ill get'er


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

lrees said:


> i have a job to start that is all walls.... 9ft, 54inch board is hung already.. 14 ft long at most.. walls are in four different rooms in a 10yr old home..they adjoin existing ceilings and walls in inside corners.. only two inside corners of new board and 4 butt joints... its thursday and needs done by mon. i dont like working sundays... how would you guys attempt it with material and step by step procedure...... I use proform products..


 You don't like working Sundays...get over it Nancy !! If you want this job done by Monday then Sunday will be sand day. 
were trying to survive through a recession here ,,and your not willing to work on Sunday??:blink:


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## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

moore said:


> You don't like working Sundays...get over it Nancy !! If you want this job done by Monday then Sunday will be sand day.
> were trying to survive through a recession here ,,and your not willing to work on Sunday??:blink:


Whats yiur preparation on some 1/4 inch air gaps where new board meets existing surface?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

lrees said:


> Whats yiur preparation on some 1/4 inch air gaps where new board meets existing surface?


1/4"? That's peanuts!
A little pre-fill with some 90.

It's only when you start getting into the big holes that you bust out the spray foam! :jester::whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

lrees said:


> Whats yiur preparation on some 1/4 inch air gaps where new board meets existing surface?


 pre-fill with 20 min then let set over night before tape.
I won't let anyone tell me when I can start or when I should finish.
When I turn the bill in ....I'm done.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> 1/4"? That's peanuts!
> A little pre-fill with some 90.
> 
> It's only when you start getting into the big holes that you bust out the spray foam! :jester::whistling2:
> View attachment 6948


 how / what do you scrape the over spray with?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> how / what do you scrape the over spray with?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> View attachment 6949


 .....


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> .....


:lol: Me soo funny!

I'm not gonna lie though, I totally did a job for a contractor like 7 years ago and that's what he did.
He was renovating a house to flip it and whoever had it before left it a real mess! They punched and kicked holes everywhere!
The contractor thought our price to do all the patch work was too high so he asked for a seperate price for us just to do the taping if he patched all the holes up.
When we came back to tape the patches, we laughed our asses off!
That's totally what he did! Just took batts of insulation, stuffed them in the holes and just spray foamed the crap out of the all the holes! The insulation stopped the foam from falling back into the wall. Once the foam dried he just used a handsaw and cut the excess foam flush to the wall and we just mudded right over that.

We we're like "You sure that's what you want!?....Alright....whatever..your house."

Every time I see that contractor now I always laugh and remind him of that. He says it still looks good to this day! :yes:

If I believe him or not is a different story...


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> :lol: Me soo funny!
> 
> I'm not gonna lie though, I totally did a job for a contractor like 7 years ago and that's what he did.
> He was renovating a house to flip it and whoever had it before left it a real mess! They punched and kicked holes everywhere!
> ...


 HEY!!! Don't think I won't pick up a can in the morning ,,and give it a try!


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

tape coat with 45 and fibafuse on seams and corners with bango (fill in seams)
tapecoat butts with mesh then 45 and fibafuse with bango(box on each side of butts)
20 min mud and any 45 left over from tape coat on outside corners 
20 min on butts and any mud left over from outside corners
nails 2 coat of 45 with spoter wipe tight than skim with any kind of mud

take lunch then scrap or lightly sand

flush with 45 on inside corners and its all gravy from there

ps. mixing mud on jobs like this is easy with a work sink :whistling2:
http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/added-heater-pump-my-work-sink-3770/


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

moore said:


> HEY!!! Don't think I won't pick up a can in the morning ,,and give it a try!


That stuff acts funny with some kinds of set mud....I wouldn't trust it if I were you. I've seen people do it, and the results have been "alright", but not good enough that I would ever use it as an option for my own work.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Buy a few cans of lafarge rapid coat mud, fiber fuse everything, wait a few hours then second coat everything then come back the next day and sand it then put the 3rd coat on and it's done.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i've been lightly sanding my edges of hotmud before skimcoating. they are usually dry enough to sand. they are nicely feathered before i sand them but one place i have had problems is the unsanded edge of quickset or airdry showing through after paint when i don't sand between coats. it's very faint but in the wrong light sometimes i'll see it. a quick sponge or pole sand over the edges seems to help.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i've been lightly sanding my edges of hotmud before skimcoating. they are usually dry enough to sand. they are nicely feathered before i sand them but one place i have had problems is the unsanded edge of quickset or airdry showing through after paint when i don't sand between coats. it's very faint but in the wrong light sometimes i'll see it. a quick sponge or pole sand over the edges seems to help.


If you wet sponge that edge, it'll completely disappear. I take a damp sponge to all my edges (after sanding) when doing tie-in work....it works especially well. You've got to be really gentle though, or you'll create a depression around the edges which can show after paint.


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

OR------
You can use VARIO...And paint it in less than 8 hours!!!! just prep the boards, use clean water and 1rst coat with 120 min mix. Have a lunch break, and finish it with Vario again, or your own compound..litely sand edges..fini!!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

spacklinfool said:


> OR------
> You can use VARIO...And paint it in less than 8 hours!!!! just prep the boards, use clean water and 1rst coat with 120 min mix. Have a lunch break, and finish it with Vario again, or your own compound..litely sand edges..fini!!


I swear if they start making 5 minute vario I would be all over it! What is the fastest set time?


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> If you wet sponge that edge, it'll completely disappear. I take a damp sponge to all my edges (after sanding) when doing tie-in work....it works especially well. You've got to be really gentle though, or you'll create a depression around the edges which can show after paint.


and once you create a depression you re-create the problem you are trying to solve. you have to sand gently as well or you are in the same boat.


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## lrees (Jan 22, 2013)

What are the big let downs of using hot mud on jobs???


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> 1/4"? That's peanuts!
> A little pre-fill with some 90.
> 
> It's only when you start getting into the big holes that you bust out the spray foam! :jester::whistling2:
> View attachment 6948


Actually spray foam has been discussed on here before, think the tool whore cazna brought it up before. It can also work as a good backer too, where you can push in on a sheet and it moves. Depending on what the cavity behind the sheet is, just poke a same hole, and fill it with foam.



carpentaper said:


> i've been lightly sanding my edges of hotmud before skimcoating. they are usually dry enough to sand. they are nicely feathered before i sand them but one place i have had problems is the unsanded edge of quickset or airdry showing through after paint when i don't sand between coats. it's very faint but in the wrong light sometimes i'll see it. a quick sponge or pole sand over the edges seems to help.


The word your looking for is ROUGH sanding.

A term a certain person in quote above, thinks is a optional practice:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

lrees said:


> What are the big let downs of using hot mud on jobs???


having it set up on you

Needing lots of water

Too much cleaning and mixing

And if you mix a batch of 20, and the coffee truck comes, kiss your coffee break good bye

If things can be done on a 24 hour cycle with AP mud, makes life more easy. depends on the size of the job most times.

and as a footnote

Don't let clients dictate time on how fast you should get things done. Most people like that, do not know how to manage/schedule a job right, and expect you to pay the price for them. They tend not to know how to manage their money either:yes:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Actually spray foam has been discussed on here before, think the tool whore cazna brought it up before. It can also work as a good backer too, where you can push in on a sheet and it moves. Depending on what the cavity behind the sheet is, just poke a same hole, and fill it with foam.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


one day when I sprayed foam in a upper lid corner all 4 were loose and as I was walking out the foam fell on my head...:furious: I got a hair cut that day


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