# Taping FAQ



## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

I'm going to work on this over the next few weeks so we can settle a few things and make it easier for NOOBS to figure things out. Your discussion and help would be greatly appreciated. Anything you think would help out a NOOB, please, post it up! I'll add it to this orginal post until it's complete, and then we will delete all discussion and have a mod sticky the topic.
Thanks in advance for your help!


*Are automatic taping tools for me?

Which is stronger, mesh, paper, or Fiba-Fuse?* Fiba-Fuse has been proven stronger than everything else and is the most mold resistant.
Paper tape is the standard for everything, tried, and true.
Mesh works best in combination with quick setting compounds and is ideal for jobs requiring speed.
Paper and mesh are just personal preference, one is not stronger than the other because every situation is different.
*
What are the 5 finish levels?
*The following finishing-level definitions are based on GA-214-07,
“Recommended Levels of Gypsum Board Finish,” and are intended to
provide an industry standard for drywall finishing.
*Level 0 *
Used in temporary construction or wherever the final decoration
has not been determined. Unfinished. No taping, finishing or
corner beads are required. Also could be used where non-predecorated
panels will be used in demountable-type partitions that are to be
painted as a final finish.
*Level 1* 
Frequently used in plenum areas above ceilings, in attics, in
areas where the assembly would generally be concealed or in building
service corridors and other areas not normally open to public view.
Some degree of sound and smoke control is provided; in some geographic
areas, this level is referred to as “fire-taping,” although this
level of finish does not typically meet fire-resistant assembly requirements.
Where a fire resistance rating is required for the gypsum board
assembly, details of construction should be in accordance with reports
of fire tests of assemblies that have met the requirements of the fire
rating imposed.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound.
Accessories are optional at specifier discretion in corridors and
other areas with pedestrian traffic. Tape and fastener heads need not
be covered with joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint
compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable.
*Level 2* 
It may be specified for standard gypsum board surfaces in
garages, warehouse storage or other similar areas where surface appearance
is not of primary importance.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel,
leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior
angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with a coat
of joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound.
Tool marks and ridges are acceptable.
*Level 3* 
Typically used in areas that are to receive heavy texture
(spray or hand applied) finishes before final painting, or where commercial-
grade (heavy duty) wall coverings are to be applied as the
final decoration. This level of finish should not be used where smooth
painted surfaces or where lighter weight wall coverings are specified.
The prepared surface shall be coated with a drywall primer prior to the
application of final finishes.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving
a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
One additional coat of joint compound shall be applied over all joints
chapter5.indd 163 1/13/2009 2:07:44 PM
164 |
and interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered
with two separate coats of joint compound. All joint compounds shall
be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The prepared surface
shall be covered with a drywall primer prior to the application of the
final decoration.
*Level 4* 
This level should be used where residential grade (light duty)
wall coverings, flat paints or light textures are to be applied. The prepared
surface shall be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application
of final finishes. Release agents for wall coverings are specifically
formulated to minimize damage if coverings are subsequently removed.
The weight, texture and sheen level of the wall covering material selected
should be taken into consideration when specifying wall coverings
over this level of drywall treatment. Joints and fasteners must be sufficiently
concealed if the wall covering material is lightweight, contains
limited pattern, has a glossy finish or has any combination of these features.
In critical lighting areas, flat paints applied over light textures tend
to reduce joint photographing. Gloss, semi-gloss and enamel paints are
not recommended over this level of finish.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and shall be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving
a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles.
In addition, two separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over
all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over
interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with
three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compounds shall be
smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The prepared surface shall
be covered with a drywall primer like Sheetrock first coat prior to the
application of the final decoration.
*Level 5* 
The highest quality finish is the most effective method to provide
a uniform surface and minimize the possibility of joint photographing
and of fasteners showing through the final decoration. This level of
finish is required where gloss, semi-gloss or enamel is specified, when
flat joints are specified over an untextured surface or where critical
lighting conditions occur. The prepared surface shall be coated with a
drywall primer prior to the application of final decoration.
All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and be immediately wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving a
thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles. Two
separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over all flat joints
and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles.
Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate
coats of joint compound.
A thin skim coat of joint compound shall be trowel applied to the entire
surface. Excess compound is immediately troweled off, leaving a film
or skim coating of compound completely covering the paper. As an
alternative to a skim coat, a material manufactured especially for this
purpose may be applied such as Sheetrock Tuff-Hide primer surfacer.
The surface must be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. The
prepared surface shall be covered with a drywall primer prior to the
application of the final decoration.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Looks good Checkers---I think I would drop the mesh/paper thing--that will be argued until the end of history


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Checkers said:


> *Are automatic taping tools for me?*


I'd say it can depend on the jobs you're doing; how well you develop the ability to operate them on those jobs; can and will someone steal them/try to steal them from jobsites you're on a lot; can they expand you into work that makes sense, and do you want to/would you like to go there; could they pay for themselves in what you're now doing, helping you to recover your investment; would knowing how to operate them make you more valuable as an employee, more valuable as a potential 'ally' at times to such as other tapers; could they give you more job security; ........

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Checkers said:


> *Which is stronger, mesh, paper, or Fiba-Fuse?* Fiba-Fuse has been proven stronger than everything else and is the most mold resistant.
> Paper tape is the standard for everything, tried, and true.
> Mesh works best in combination with quick setting compounds and is ideal for jobs requiring speed.
> Paper and mesh are just personal preference, one is not stronger than the other because every situation is different.


I'm liking FibaFuse more now for butt joints, flats (except I may want to switch to boxing my butts with one up the middle 1st, vs. 2 up the sides 1st - box blades tear up fibers from Fiba a bit). I'm still doing corners with paper - still a bit 'leary' about cutting the Fiba at times with flushers. But that may change.

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Checkers said:


> *What are the 5 finish levels?*


A Google search that should give you lots more on it: http://www.google.ca/#hl=en&source=...q=level+5+drywal&gs_rfai=&fp=6aff56c5ca34e6f6


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Checkers said:


> I'm going to work on this over the next few weeks so we can settle a few things and make it easier for NOOBS to figure things out. Your discussion and help would be greatly appreciated. Anything you think would help out a NOOB, please, post it up! I'll add it to this orginal post until it's complete, and then we will delete all discussion and have a mod sticky the topic.
> Thanks in advance for your help!


You seem to be placing a lot of emphasis on 'NOOB'. I don't consider myself too far removed from that status, myself. But I try to get a # of years of learning into one year, when and where I can.

An acquaintance who had a commercial interior construction outfit once told me that he'd hired a lot of guys who'd been at their trade for 10-20 years, but really only had 1-2 years experience, which they'd applied over those 10-20 years. I considered him to be exaggerating things a bit, but I got the point.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> Looks good Checkers---I think I would drop the mesh/paper thing--that will be argued until the end of history


agreed ,good idea,but drop mesh/paper thing,we all know which one is the best :whistling2:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> agreed ,good idea,but drop mesh/paper thing,we all know which one is the best :whistling2:


Yeah, after I read the paper mesh thing, I didn't read the rest, since you don't know diddly about tape and/or its effect on a job, why would I ????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Yeah, after I read the paper mesh thing, I didn't read the rest, since you don't know diddly about tape and/or its effect on a job, why would I ????


who me ??????


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> who me ??????


 No not you,,,, the OP,,,,, geese, its beer-thirty,,, okay????


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