# Taping And Glazing Angles



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

OK , I am not a cub but, I just recently purchased my first set of tools. I have used tools many times before but... I have a few questions. 
I am taping with a banjo. Before I got my new set of Drywall Master taping tools, I always set my angle tapes with a combo corner flusher and had decent results.

Now I have a corner roller and a angle head handle. I have been using the corner roller to set my angle tapes then glazing with my angle head.(I love that bonehead with wheels) The only thing that I am thinking is that I really don't need to use the corner roller if I set my angle tapes with the combo flusher then run over them with the angle box. Basically I find it would be easier to clean the angle box and combo flusher than trying to clean that corner roller. Basically I am using the corner roller to add compound to the angles so they can be glazed when I can use the angle box to apply compound.

How should I be doing this? 
Or does it make much difference?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> OK , I am not a cub but, I just recently purchased my first set of tools. I have used tools many times before but... I have a few questions.
> I am taping with a banjo. Before I got my new set of Drywall Master taping tools, I always set my angle tapes with a combo corner flusher and had decent results.
> 
> Now I have a corner roller and a angle head handle. I have been using the corner roller to set my angle tapes then glazing with my angle head.(I love that bonehead with wheels) The only thing that I am thinking is that I really don't need to use the corner roller if I set my angle tapes with the combo flusher then run over them with the angle box. Basically I find it would be easier to clean the angle box and combo flusher than trying to clean that corner roller. Basically I am using the corner roller to add compound to the angles so they can be glazed when I can use the angle box to apply compound.
> ...


Sorry, I quoted you so I could read what you wrote while I'm typing. If you've got a tool that sets the tape and works it right into the angle I can't see the need to use the roller...is the flusher as fast as the roller though (I've never used one of those combo gadgets)? I cannot see using the roller to apply mud for skimming the angles...that's what the angle box is for.

I found that if you put the roller in a bucket of water and pump it up and down vigorously, it gets it pretty darn clean....clean enough for a roller anyway


----------



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

I've come to the realization that the combo flusher is faster than the roller. I can also dunk the combo flusher in some mud to apply a little compound in the angles. The combo flusher doesn't leave the angles looking anywhere near the quality that the angle head does. 

One problem that I forgot to mention is that when the tape is wet and I try to run the angle box and angle head over it, it seems to want to tear alot more. I know this is due to the fact that there isn't enough compound on top of the tape.


----------



## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

MT--do you have the roller with 4 wheels? Ive found that it sets the tape better than the flusher JMO and leaves enough mud to glaze. Keep both tools in a bucket of water while working and always use them wet. Remember ,you are just glazing the tape day1 so dont try to make it look too pretty,,it will look fine next day when dry!!!


----------



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

I have this corner roller and it works fine, just a little pain to clean. (maybe because it is new, I am too worried about it being perfectly clean)

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Rollers/Drywall-Master-Corner-Roller


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> One problem that I forgot to mention is that when the tape is wet and I try to run the angle box and angle head over it, it seems to want to tear alot more. I know this is due to the fact that there isn't enough compound on top of the tape.


Unless I'm missing something, if you're doing as you said in your OP and putting tapes on with a banjo, I'm not sure why you'd need an angle box at this point. My banjo can give more than enough mud on the corner tapes, but I can dial it in for just the right amount. I then just roller and flush them, same as I do when using a bazooka. 



M T Buckets Painting said:


> I have this corner roller and it works fine, just a little pain to clean. (maybe because it is new, I am too worried about it being perfectly clean)
> 
> http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Rollers/Drywall-Master-Corner-Roller


I use one similar. When using it, I have about a 1/5 pail of water that I let the roller, and my flusher, sit in/carry around in when putting on corner tapes. That helps keep the roller from getting clogged/gooey, which can cause the wheels to not turn, and tear up your tapes. I'll clean it while using it by doing something like Slim said - pumping it up and down in the water, while at the same time banging it a bit on the bottom of the pail. That cleans it pretty good.

When I'm finished, I'll do the same to clean it, as well as spin the rollers a bit till I get the backside of them exposed, which usually still has some mud there. I give that side a bit more of a cleaning/banging in the water. That's usually enough.

When using roller at some other time, I'll check to make sure all rollers are turning before using it. If some aren't turning, a little soaking in water should help free things up enough.


----------



## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

I stopped using a roller years ago but I do put on a thin coat of mud with my tube before flushing. That helps to set the tape at the same time.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I've come to the realization that the combo flusher is faster than the roller. I can also dunk the combo flusher in some mud to apply a little compound in the angles. The combo flusher doesn't leave the angles looking anywhere near the quality that the angle head does.
> 
> One problem that I forgot to mention is that when the tape is wet and I try to run the angle box and angle head over it, it seems to want to tear alot more. I know this is due to the fact that there isn't enough compound on top of the tape.


When you're wiping angle tape, the angle head just needs to be on the handle, you don't need the angle box....although, if you're using the flusher maybe it's pulling all of that mud off the tape? The roller leaves a nice gooey mess, and the angle head smooths it all out and piles it in the corner. I can think of a couple of reasons why the tape would be tearing with the angle head...
1)the tape isn't pushed firmly enough into the angle
2)the angle of the head and pressure applied aren't right

Hope I'm sounding more helpful than a know-it-all (which I certainly do not!)


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Can you put up a link of which angle heads you using MT, I'm guessing the combo head is a can -am product.Ive found if your mixing the heads up you got to go mechanical heads 1st, then the can am's, the other way around causes a lot of ripping and tearing of tapes.
Your suppose to be able to get away with no roller with the can am/bte flushers,,,but.....??????
Lets just say the angles are the one system you may change a lot in your taping career :yes:


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

yep just when you get a system that works and feels good......you will try to improve apon it ....and so the game will begain.....me i like my dwm roller it puts the tape in nice and tight and when i come through with my glazing head it doesent tear the paper.


----------



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> yep just when you get a system that works and feels good......you will try to improve apon it ....and so the game will begain.....me i like my dwm roller it puts the tape in nice and tight and when i come through with my glazing head it doesent tear the paper.


Yep, I am trying to fix something that isn't broken. Everything was working till I tried to save a little time. Time is money.

Thank you everyone for the input and sorry for making some of you think wtf is MT doing. 

I will just use the tryed and true system of the roller and angle head.

2buck, my combo flusher is neither a bte or a can-am. I bought it at the Benjamin-Moore paint store. It is a good one, I paid about $190 with my discount. I don't know the brand name. There are no markings on the head. My angle head is a DM 3" with wheels.


----------



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Slim, you assmued right about the flusher pulling all of the mud off the tapes. That is why I thought I would use the angle box to apply more mud. 

I basically saved a nickel but spent 50 cents doing so.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> Slim, you assmued right about the flusher pulling all of the mud off the tapes. That is why I thought I would use the angle box to apply more mud.
> 
> I basically saved a nickel but spent 50 cents doing so.


I remember when I first learned to use the roller I made a complete mess. Crumpled piles of tape, ripped tape, half-out-of-the-angle tape.....and that was _before_ I threw the glazer on it:laughing: 

I still have a little trouble rolling the little verticals on soffits and tub surrounds, they like to wander.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> Yep, I am trying to fix something that isn't broken. Everything was working till I tried to save a little time. Time is money.
> 
> Thank you everyone for the input and sorry for making some of you think wtf is MT doing.
> 
> ...


does your combo flusher look like this http://www.westtechtools.com/handtools.aspx
I think the can am has a black wheel on it
do you know what size it is ?


----------



## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

when taping your angles always mix your mud looser. Start rolling your angle in the middle with just enough pressure to crease the tape in the corner, then as you get your taped creased in corner apply more pressure to squeeze the mud out...then glaze with your angle head 2 1/2 or 3


----------



## roominaday (Feb 14, 2010)

I use a tube and applicator, mix my mud very soupy, put tapes in, roll with a 4 wheel roller to set the tape tight, then flush with a 3.5" Flusher, clean up 3 ways. There is enough mud left over to fill the bevel and cover the tape...only if it is soupy. Don't go to far ahead as the d/w absorbs the water from the mud and you wont get an even spread. If needed I will add so mud and then flush again to get good coverage. Don't worry if it isn't 100%, the second coat will fix that. Day 2, tube and applicator, 3" flusher - yes large to small - I learned it here and it works better and then clean up 3 ways.

Roller in a bucket of water and I have a small carwash brush I will use to clean it. I let 90 dry in it once - took a bit to clean it but it still works. I let 90 dry in my pump as well but that is another story...it still works too!


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

roominaday said:


> I use a tube and applicator, mix my mud very soupy, put tapes in, roll with a 4 wheel roller to set the tape tight, then flush with a 3.5" Flusher, clean up 3 ways. There is enough mud left over to fill the bevel and cover the tape...only if it is soupy. Don't go to far ahead as the d/w absorbs the water from the mud and you wont get an even spread. If needed I will add so mud and then flush again to get good coverage. Don't worry if it isn't 100%, the second coat will fix that. Day 2, tube and applicator, 3" flusher - yes large to small - I learned it here and it works better and then clean up 3 ways.
> 
> Roller in a bucket of water and I have a small carwash brush I will use to clean it. I let 90 dry in it once - took a bit to clean it but it still works. I let 90 dry in my pump as well but that is another story...it still works too!


To me,the tube and applicator is one of the best little toys to pull out on the small jobs, very little set up time, and fairly fast with 2 guys.I was using that method before I got the bazooka. I will still do that method if the job does not warrant the bazooka:thumbsup:


----------



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> does your combo flusher look like this http://www.westtechtools.com/handtools.aspx
> I think the can am has a black wheel on it
> do you know what size it is ?


Mine has a white wheel that is pretty small. If I get time Monday, I will call the paint store to get more info. They sold it to me so, they should know what the hell they are selling.


----------



## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> Mine has a white wheel that is pretty small. If I get time Monday, I will call the paint store to get more info. They sold it to me so, they should know what the hell they are selling.


JMO Ive always thought the flusher with the nylon wheel suc&d we all have our method--Capt wised me up on using a 3 1/2 then a 3 what a difference:thumbup:thats the roller/flusher /anglehead in that order for me!!


----------



## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

Another trick to try that works for me is load both the roller and glazer with the mud your taping with BEFORE you use them...if the roller is full, it will have less drag on the tape and won't pull the mud off of it when rolling them out...once you get the consistency figured out on your mud, this will work better...same for the head....fill it up first to where the head is full inside the blades...this will flow out the mud that you are glazing on top of the tapes better because the head isn't sucking up the mud...just spreading it out

I keep the roller and glazer full, but still keep them in a bucket of water just full enough to cover the head and roller

just a thought to pass on to try...it may work for you or it may not...but to me, that have been pushing these tools for nearly 20yrs, it works...and also, to me, the angles are the toughest of the tools to get down...MUCH faster in the end..but hardest on your body...I would prefer to run the tube/boxes/nailspotters all day over roll/glaze/pump angle tools..but if your process is the same as mine, i treat it like a hindsight kinda thing....once it is time to fire up the angle box, your just a hr or few from being done


----------



## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Bill from Indy said:


> Another trick to try that works for me is load both the roller and glazer with the mud your taping with BEFORE you use them...if the roller is full, it will have less drag on the tape and won't pull the mud off of it when rolling them out...once you get the consistency figured out on your mud, this will work better...same for the head....fill it up first to where the head is full inside the blades...this will flow out the mud that you are glazing on top of the tapes better because the head isn't sucking up the mud...just spreading it out
> 
> I keep the roller and glazer full, but still keep them in a bucket of water just full enough to cover the head and roller
> 
> just a thought to pass on to try...it may work for you or it may not...but to me, that have been pushing these tools for nearly 20yrs, it works...and also, to me, the angles are the toughest of the tools to get down...MUCH faster in the end..but hardest on your body...I would prefer to run the tube/boxes/nailspotters all day over roll/glaze/pump angle tools..but if your process is the same as mine, i treat it like a hindsight kinda thing....once it is time to fire up the angle box, your just a hr or few from being done


There is no advantage of loading up your roller, They are designed and set to squeeze the mud out to the set amount for your angle head to do its job. Loading up the roller only will submit to to much mud and will end up in a sloppy mess creating more mud to wipe down off the walls. I agree however loading up the angle head only once before the initial start I just fill the cavity on the head with just a little mud once that is accomplished there should be enough mud flow from rolling to get the job done right and fill any voids. If your angle head isn't doing this it is not adjusted right. Using a three inch angle head first. The larger angle heads may have to adjust the settings some to get your coverage.


----------



## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

----


----------



## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> There is no advantage of loading up your roller, They are designed and set to squeeze the mud out to the set amount for your angle head to do its job. Loading up the roller only will submit to to much mud and will end up in a sloppy mess creating more mud to wipe down off the walls. I agree however loading up the angle head only once before the initial start I just fill the cavity on the head with just a little mud once that is accomplished there should be enough mud flow from rolling to get the job done right and fill any voids. If your angle head isn't doing this it is not adjusted right. Using a three inch angle head first. The larger angle heads may have to adjust the settings some to get your coverage.


that's what i meant...just loading them up on the initial start...I have a northstar roller with the sleeved plastic wheels..I personally prefer loading it too so it keeps all the mud you roll on the tape...my roller sucks quite a bit off if I roll with it dry..i just fill the wheel cavities..I don't get slop really...just a personal preference....not for everyone


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

here is how i do my angles....taping it out with a automatic taper one guy following me rolling them out ...i get my mud runner with my 3.5 angle head and box out all the tape with mud in it ..than we both clean out the 3 points..once dry ill hit them with my 2.5 angle head..done:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

OK ,,,,,,I got to ask, why are your screws pink, are you training newbie's . Is your next coat going to be blue, (which will make purple:yes: ), Then go with regular white mud???
Just wondering.


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> OK ,,,,,,I got to ask, why are your screws pink, are you training newbie's . Is your next coat going to be blue, (which will make purple:yes: ), Then go with regular white mud???
> Just wondering.


On densarmor white mud dissapears...I tint it so I can keep track of all fastiners and make sure they all get 3 coats...so when paint time comes around no one say I thought I hit them....


----------



## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Usually when I am pickin' angles.. if I am up on stilts in a tight area I run a thinn coat on everything.. screws and joints. usually with 6 and 8 inch. and I do carry both knifes with me along with a 10 inch pan. So what I am saying is that joint by the vent would have had a coat on it as well. Doesn't take much time ... and it also helps on the butts , good prep for first coat. Anyway,, Nice clean angle's not sure about the pink,, blue maybe...


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> Usually when I am pickin' angles.. if I am up on stilts in a tight area I run a thinn coat on everything.. screws and joints. usually with 6 and 8 inch. and I do carry both knifes with me along with a 10 inch pan. So what I am saying is that joint by the vent would have had a coat on it as well. Doesn't take much time ... and it also helps on the butts , good prep for first coat. Anyway,, Nice clean angle's not sure about the pink,, blue maybe...


None of my business, but I don't get why you would do that (start hand coating stuff) when doing angles do angles, when doing screws do screws, when Smis goes to do his flats, I'm sure he will use his boxes. When I'm laying tape I just want to get the damn stuff on, I'm not going to start coating this and that.
But then again, I don't know what tools/machines your using. I'm thinking like a machine taper. I see some guys incorporate too much hand methods into their machine work. Let the machines do their work.

If your doing a lot of hand work, then I get what your saying. Not trying to be a prick here, wasted time on stuff is lost wages. I think some guys will know what I'm saying. Don't do stuff by hand ,that can be done by machine, get what I'm saying, just trying to be helpful.

Are you running machines BD, just wondering, I can tell Smis is to nice to question back

Oh, and I would of went with blue too, not pink, But you got to admit that was another smart little idea buy Smis. I'm going to go work with Smis for a week ,lol,,,, maybe some of his intelligence will rub off on me:yes:


----------



## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> None of my business, but I don't get why you would do that (start hand coating stuff) when doing angles do angles, when doing screws do screws, when Smis goes to do his flats, I'm sure he will use his boxes. When I'm laying tape I just want to get the damn stuff on, I'm not going to start coating this and that.


i completely agree. 

and when guys put beads on before taping in angles, that bugs the hell outta me.


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

betterdrywall said:


> Usually when I am pickin' angles.. if I am up on stilts in a tight area I run a thinn coat on everything.. screws and joints. usually with 6 and 8 inch. and I do carry both knifes with me along with a 10 inch pan. So what I am saying is that joint by the vent would have had a coat on it as well. Doesn't take much time ... and it also helps on the butts , good prep for first coat. Anyway,, Nice clean angle's not sure about the pink,, blue maybe...


 First i spot screws set them fix corner screws and nails...than tape butts...than tape flats....than vertical corners...upon stilts to tape out all of the ceiling corners...than i put on bead and trims..thats my order..than i start boxing joints...i like to keep everything coated = number of times and in order ..so it all becomes a well oiled system flowing smoothly ..allways the same ..and the verry last thing i do after the joints are done is glaze out all of my corners with a 2.5 head:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I use the runner behind the roller with a 3.5 bone head, Tryed the 2.5 next didnt really like it much, Not enough mud there IMO, I got a 4inch tapeworm, Now thats a sweet corner, A little slower to run than the 2.5 but im a happy machine corner man now after trying everything else. This is the best corners machines can produce IMO again, Full, even, easy to sand, Nice and level not to steep, takes care of bad board, tapered edges and screws extremely well :thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

McDusty said:


> and when guys put beads on before taping in angles, that bugs the hell outta me.


That's the first thing I do after pre-filling. I like to make sure the tape is cut perfectly to the edge of the bead and it makes it easier to cut the tape with a knife off the floor on an 8' wall. ( I'm 5'10" )


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

cazna said:


> I use the runner behind the roller with a 3.5 bone head, Tryed the 2.5 next didnt really like it much, Not enough mud there IMO, I got a 4inch tapeworm, Now thats a sweet corner, A little slower to run than the 2.5 but im a happy machine corner man now after trying everything else. This is the best corners machines can produce IMO again, Full, even, easy to sand, Nice and level not to steep, takes care of bad board, tapered edges and screws extremely well :thumbsup:


 this my be overboard but.....but i dont put vertical bevels into corners because you have to fill the recess before you can produce a good corner..same with ceilings..just me not for everyone


----------



## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

I like to bead while my guys are prefilling gets me out of prefilling and then we can all focus on taping. I still run a banjo so a 3 guy taping crew is ideal. Me on banjo one guy running roller and 3'' skimmer head third guy behind wiping out. 
Anyone running tapetech angle heads that is all I've ever ran I have seen the better than ever system but it seemed inferior to tapetech style angle heads.

originally posted by smisner50s
this my be overboard but.....but i dont put vertical bevels into corners because you have to fill the recess before you can produce a good corner..same with ceilings..just me not for everyone 

If your 3.5 angle head was adjusted properly wouldn't that fill your bevels and eliminate the need too cut them all off?


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

cdwoodcox said:


> I like to bead while my guys are prefilling gets me out of prefilling and then we can all focus on taping. I still run a banjo so a 3 guy taping crew is ideal. Me on banjo one guy running roller and 3'' skimmer head third guy behind wiping out.
> Anyone running tapetech angle heads that is all I've ever ran I have seen the better than ever system but it seemed inferior to tapetech style angle heads.
> 
> originally posted by smisner50s
> ...


 In theory yes...but you know how that goes....you end up putting to much mud the first time or the head snags on the bevel ripping the tape..all that mud srinks up to much resulting in 3 coats ...bla..bla..bla..ive just found out that no bevels in the corner.the corner is already square....nothing to fill just feather out .tape .roll. 3.5 on mud runner. .next day.:thumbsup: light sand 2.5 mud runner .waaalaaaa.for me it works verry well...


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> In theory yes...but you know how that goes....you end up putting to much mud the first time or the head snags on the bevel ripping the tape..all that mud srinks up to much resulting in 3 coats ...bla..bla..bla..ive just found out that no bevels in the corner.the corner is already square....nothing to fill just feather out .tape .roll. 3.5 on mud runner. .next day.:thumbsup: light sand 2.5 mud runner .waaalaaaa.for me it works verry well...


 
Sounds good smisner, some builders i work for do that for me, Its the best way for corners, I asked a housing company to do that once and i got a big sob story reply that the costing does not allow for that, If i want that done then the extra time will be takin from my bill and givin to the hangers for there time, Screw the housing companys, They can tie up other drywallers and leave the cream for me :yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> this my be overboard but.....but i dont put vertical bevels into corners because you have to fill the recess before you can produce a good corner..same with ceilings..just me not for everyone


I do the same:thumbup:, if I get to rock it


----------

