# Plaster Ceiling



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I am fixing a plaster ceiling Im just going to hang new rock right over the top of the plaster screwing into the joists. Im just wondering if anyone has done this before and has any tips. I want to make sure its all done right.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

If the plaster is loose you might want to suck it up first with some screws or furring strips. In a lot of circumstances 5/8 will do part of the trick, but not all of it.

Good luck, but more importantly, have fun. :mellow:


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Ditto to slim--- usually we install strapping or firring to pull the plaster tight and it makes the installation easier for your rock.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

That is the perfect place to use the Betta-Fix clip and furring channel. I see that they are now exporting these from Oz to the USA now. Or so the news letter says.

http://www.studcosystems.com.au/news-update-studco-betafix-clips.html


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## BPTaper (Jul 31, 2012)

Ive only done this one way but in my opinion fir it out and screw/glue the new rock ........screw the &^#( out of it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> That is the perfect place to use the Betta-Fix clip and furring channel. I see that they are now exporting these from Oz to the USA now. Or so the news letter says.
> 
> http://www.studcosystems.com.au/news-update-studco-betafix-clips.html


Cute principle with that product, but dumb design. 

The way they have it, you half to apply the bracket 1st, then the furring channel, Imagine the noise that would make pulling it through









They should have/half something where you can install both at once, something where the hilti gun can get by the furring channel, to fire into the bracket. They expect you to attach to the dead middle of the bracket, should be at edges where you can attach.

Plus those would be too time consuming to strap out a old plaster ceiling, faster to toe the furring into trusses with long drywall screws.

Just a thought


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The point of the Beta-Fix clips is that you can adjust the height of the channel to get your levels right if the existing timber is out of wack. They are pretty easy to install. Just chalk line where the furring will run, then the same with the existing timber (trusses or joists). Then you have the screw points for your clips. Screw them up with a roof screw. The furring doesnt have to slide in the clips, you just squeeze the furring and pop it into the clip.:yes:

They are a great idea, each clip point gives you 3mm (1/8) of adjustment.


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## J Johnstone Construc (Nov 15, 2011)

Use 5/8's and 2" screws(lots of them) 

Use a string line to show any spots that are sagging and try and draw them in with screws before hanging new board

Locate your joists first (I use a 3" spike find both sides and mark the center) and chalk lines, helps make sure you hit good wood since you're gonna be holding both the rock and plaster up and old lumber can move around over time.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

get up in the attic and push it down...It is best to start over and do it right.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> The point of the Beta-Fix clips is that you can adjust the height of the channel to get your levels right if the existing timber is out of wack. They are pretty easy to install. Just chalk line where the furring will run, then the same with the existing timber (trusses or joists). Then you have the screw points for your clips. Screw them up with a roof screw. The furring doesnt have to slide in the clips, you just squeeze the furring and pop it into the clip.:yes:
> 
> They are a great idea, each clip point gives you 3mm (1/8) of adjustment.


Well to continue our little debate:whistling2:

I get what your saying, I'm just saying they have the holes in the wrong spot, they should be to the outside. But I guess if someone was to use a hilti gun, they will make their own hole (on concrete):whistling2:

That way, you could install the furring channel and clips at the same time. It would be faster IMO


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

J Johnstone Construc said:


> Use 5/8's and 2" screws(lots of them)
> 
> Use a string line to show any spots that are sagging and try and draw them in with screws before hanging new board
> 
> Locate your joists first (I use a 3" spike find both sides and mark the center) and chalk lines, helps make sure you hit good wood since you're gonna be holding both the rock and plaster up and old lumber can move around over time.


 Exactly how I would do it:thumbsup:. Crazy how some people just use 1/4:blink: 1/2 doesnt getrdone IMO either. Do it right and use the best board you can use 5/8:yes: and yes 2" screws should be just right


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

J Johnstone Construc said:


> Use a string line to show any spots that are sagging and try and draw them in with screws before hanging new board


The only problem I see with this, instead of using furring strips/1x3, is that screws bust the plaster all up. To do it without causing further plaster failure you'd have to pre-drill. I'll do it any way they want me to (while expressing warranty concerns), but IMO furring is the way to go. 3" Framing screws, and then the 5/8" can go on with regular length screws.


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## J Johnstone Construc (Nov 15, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> The only problem I see with this, instead of using furring strips/1x3, is that screws bust the plaster all up. To do it without causing further plaster failure you'd have to pre-drill. I'll do it any way they want me to (while expressing warranty concerns), but IMO furring is the way to go. 3" Framing screws, and then the 5/8" can go on with regular length screws.


Only problem being if the plaster continues to deteriorate, only the small area under the channel will be secure, instead of the relatively even pressure over the entire surface created by putting rock on directly. 

I've used the channel method when the lumber is really out to be able to furr out the bad spot and it is very effective.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Well to continue our little debate:whistling2:
> 
> I get what your saying, I'm just saying they have the holes in the wrong spot, they should be to the outside. But I guess if someone was to use a hilti gun, they will make their own hole (on concrete):whistling2:
> 
> That way, you could install the furring channel and clips at the same time. It would be faster IMO



2Buck this is another example of why at times we should probably keep our mouths shut. They have changed the design in line with your suggestion. Is it a coincidence? Who knows, but it seems funny that they change after you put forward an idea. I am sure the big boys are watching.
And by the way YOU WERE RIGHT.:yes: They work well.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> 2Buck this is another example of why at times we should probably keep our mouths shut. They have changed the design in line with your suggestion. Is it a coincidence? Who knows, but it seems funny that they change after you put forward an idea. I am sure the big boys are watching.
> And by the way YOU WERE RIGHT.:yes: They work well.


Well those dirty buggers

The least they could do is offer us a "T" shirt:yes:

One "T" shirt for you for posting their product, and 6 to 7 "T" shirts for me, and my great idea:whistling2:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

J Johnstone Construc said:


> Use 5/8's and 2" screws(lots of them)
> 
> Use a string line to show any spots that are sagging and try and draw them in with screws before hanging new board
> 
> Locate your joists first (I use a 3" spike find both sides and mark the center) and chalk lines, helps make sure you hit good wood since you're gonna be holding both the rock and plaster up and old lumber can move around over time.


:thumbup1:

Yep 

and like Chris concurs don't dink around with thin board - go 5/8 
:rockon:


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## J Johnstone Construc (Nov 15, 2011)

However when in doubt, rip it out!


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