# ButtBoard..Shim on a Roll..BackerBoard = Flat walls



## Trim-Tex

Page #35 in our 2011 catalog.....these products are all designed to be user friendly and to deliver great results! Please visit your local dealer (we have over 1,900 USA Canada and AU dealers) and ask them to carry the products that you want to use.

No reason not to reward yourselves and your clients

BTW, Great community and fun personalities here at DWT

Joe Koenig
www.trim-tex.com
www.drywallart.com


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## drywallnflorida

I use them alot on patches and remodel work. They work great :thumbup:


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## moore

Great community and fun personalities here at DWT 

That's one way to put It ..

Thank you .....for great products that make life on the job easier .:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

Trim-Tex said:


> BTW, Great community and fun personalities here at DWT
> 
> Joe Koenig
> www.trim-tex.com
> www.drywallart.com


Except for those Kiwi's:whistling2:

Right Joe:thumbsup:


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## Trim-Tex

Hello all, Due to a big response and lots of positive feedback on our new and improved OSB ButtBoard. We would like to offer any contractor who is still skeptical or unsure, a chance to reward your customers and yourself with perfectly flat walls. 
#825 OSB ButtBoard 48” #826 OSB ButtBoard 54”
#970 Shim on a Roll 1/16” #971 Shim on a Roll 1/8”
For Commercial projects and steel stud framing: Backer Board 16” (fire treated) #830

If you would like to try a box of any of these fine products please E Mail: your wish list and Name, phone # and complete UPS shippable address to [email protected] 
When your ready to purchase please visit your local dealer or search on our dealer locator at www.trim-tex.com 
Have a great day!
Joe


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## mudslingr

Hi Joe ! I'd like to know a little more about that stuff on the roll. Would it not make a worse butt considering it comes out from the stud ?


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## wnybassman

mudslingr said:


> Hi Joe ! I'd like to know a little more about that stuff on the roll. Would it not make a worse butt considering it comes out from the stud ?


I am guessing a shim would be put on the studs on either side of the stud that the butt will be on.


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## moore

My old man used the same thing in the 70s ..but they came In 4' strips.


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## SlimPickins

mudslingr said:


> Hi Joe ! I'd like to know a little more about that stuff on the roll. Would it not make a worse butt considering it comes out from the stud ?


Also, the shims are used to bring bad lumber into plane. We use cardboard shims all the time...it's like furring strips. The roll stuff sounds way more handy though, a lot less waste if you can cut it to size:thumbsup:


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## moore

Around shower tubs ..:yes:


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## mudslingr

wnybassman said:


> I am guessing a shim would be put on the studs on either side of the stud that the butt will be on.


That makes sense. But now you would be using 8' of the vinyl shim as opposed to a 4' Buttboard. Is this cost effective ?


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## mudslingr

SlimPickins said:


> Also, the shims are used to bring bad lumber into plane. We use cardboard shims all the time...it's like furring strips. The roll stuff sounds way more handy though, a lot less waste if you can cut it to size:thumbsup:


I could see it coming in quite handy for that.:thumbup:


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## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Except for those Kiwi's:whistling2:
> 
> Right Joe:thumbsup:


HEY!!!  ....ya cheeky bugger, How'd I missed that one


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## Trim-Tex

*Shim on a Roll*
*Straightens uneven framing before hanging drywall. Flat walls simplify cabinet installation saving time and money . Vinyl shim is prescored every 18" and simply snaps off to desired length. Shims stack up to increase thickness for different sized gaps. Engineered holes allow stud adhesive to penetrate to framing. Available in 1/8" & 1/16" thickness. *
*Before hanging check all walls with a 6' level and all studs that are bowed in more than 3/16" should be shimmed all studs that bow out should be trimmed/planed or studs on either sides should be shimmed. *
*The Shim and ButtBoard are not intended to be used together, Buttboard is just to solve the butt joints. *
*Tomorrow I will post pictures of the many uses of our Shim*
*http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=viewcategory&catid=4*


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## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> *Shim on a Roll*
> *Straightens uneven framing before hanging drywall. Flat walls simplify cabinet installation saving time and money . Vinyl shim is prescored every 18" and simply snaps off to desired length. Shims stack up to increase thickness for different sized gaps. Engineered holes allow stud adhesive to penetrate to framing. Available in 1/8" & 1/16" thickness. *
> *Before hanging check all walls with a 6' level and all studs that are bowed in more than 3/16" should be shimmed all studs that bow out should be trimmed/planed or studs on either sides should be shimmed. *
> *The Shim and ButtBoard are not intended to be used together, Buttboard is just to solve the butt joints. *
> *Tomorrow I will post pictures of the many uses of our Shim*
> *http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=viewcategory&catid=4*


Hey, 2Buck could use shim on a roll to straighten out his 1-1/2" out-of-whack corner beads! :laughing:


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## Final touch drywall

We have been using the butt boards & love them.
Thx trim tex.:thumbsup:


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## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> We have been using the butt boards & love them.
> Thx trim tex.:thumbsup:


They are nice. :yes:


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## SlimPickins

Final touch drywall said:


> We have been using the butt boards & love them.
> Thx trim tex.:thumbsup:


I'm finally going to have an opportunity to use mine next week....I will be sure and post my findings.


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Hey, 2Buck could use shim on a roll to straighten out his 1-1/2" out-of-whack corner beads! :laughing:


nah, we just send you drywallers back to fix it now:yes:


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> nah, we just send you drywallers back to fix it now:yes:


I ain't no drywaller, I is a speshulized wall teknishun!


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## Trim-Tex

Our user friendly, water proof Shim on a Roll: use it anywhere you need a shim for any project on a job, even counter tops and cabinets. 

Save money and shim out your shower with 1/8" shim and use 1/2" Dura rock (which is offered in many more sizes than 5/8). Keep a couple rolls in your truck for any challenge and if they get wet...No Big Deal...water proof rust free rigid vinyl :yes:











Shim up a Flat Tear Away on the taper of the board (saves time and money)


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## Trim-Tex

And of coarse, easily straighten uneven framing :thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> Our user friendly, water proof Shim on a Roll: use it anywhere you need a shim for any project on a job, even counter tops and cabinets.
> 
> Save money and shim out your shower with 1/8" shim and use 1/2" Dura rock (which is offered in many more sizes than 5/8). Keep a couple rolls in your truck for any challenge and if they get wet...No Big Deal...water proof rust free rigid vinyl :yes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shim up a Flat Tear Away on the taper of the board (saves time and money)


I'm in....I asked my supplier if they had any, they didn't.....but they are looking into it:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

Trim-Tex said:


> And of coarse, easily straighten uneven framing :thumbsup:


If only our boarders would even consider trying 2 straighten anything:furious:
we r on price work is all u get from them so ceiling trusses that r out, well that dont matter bang the butt joints 2 them the taper will do the rest!!
They have never heard of butt boards and anything along that lines!! Think u need 2 start getting people in the uk on 2 this kind of stuff:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock

VANMAN said:


> If only our boarders would even consider trying 2 straighten anything:furious:
> we r on price work is all u get from them so ceiling trusses that r out, well that dont matter bang the butt joints 2 them the taper will do the rest!!
> They have never heard of butt boards and anything along that lines!! Think u need 2 start getting people in the uk on 2 this kind of stuff:thumbsup:


 Respectfully, untill they start paying the hangers to do this,,, it ain't gonna get done


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## eastex1963

Looks like just the thing for shimming around tubs. Good Idea!! Save a lot on mudding.


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## chris

Sweet:thumbsup:


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## moore

SlimPickins said:


> I ain't no drywaller, I is a speshulized wall teknishun!


Drywall Contractor .


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## SlimPickins

moore said:


> Drywall Contractor .


Yeah, because when they get my bill their sphincters do a lot of contracting because of the drywall.


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## 2buckcanuck

so whats the suggested retail price, just so us Canucks will know how much were getting ripped off up here,,,, compared to you yanks:whistling2:

and how many ln ft comes in a box

Our rockers are actually pretty good, if the DWC supplied the stuff to them, some of them would actually use it:yes:


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## RocknRoller

I saw this video years ago and now we do a pre hanging framing inspection and we fix the small stuff and bitch to the GC about the big F ups. 

http://www.trim-tex.com/videos.html

Installation video


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## RocknRoller

http://www.trim-tex.com/videos.html

Video is 2 from bottom: product installation 

We have also mark the corner studs with what bead is going on it. Communication with GC, hangers, finishers works!


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## Trim-Tex

Thanks RnR, Still still good video to watch. Shows why the divergent staples are so good. 

BTW when using different beads that have different set back requirements, good practice during the framing inspection is to mark the studs AND hang a short pc of the bead on a screw. Then call the hanger about the sample (or samples) you left for him to use to check proper set back. 

THANKS everyone for using our products, all of us at TT appreciate it!

Joe


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## Trim-Tex

In the spirit of giving, T Tex is offering to the first 10 contractors that e mail Donna in customer service [email protected] 1 box of 48" Buttboard 1bx of 54" Buttboard 1 box 1/8" Shim on a Roll ( 4 rolls ) 

Joe


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## Trim-Tex

Six are in and four spots still open. We are ready when you are.


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## Trim-Tex

And the tenth and last contestant wins a Duo Fast staple gun and ten thooooousaaand staples along with the other stuff


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## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> And the tenth and last contestant wins a Duo Fast staple gun and ten thooooousaaand staples along with the other stuff


Can you put me in last place please? It's not MY fault I'm awesomely fast.................at entering contests


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## Trim-Tex

Devin from Boco Painting, we need your UPS able address please

we have 14 contractors contact us and we will honor all 14
SDRDrywall Steve Riker was #10 and is the lucky SOB to get the Dou Fast Stapler and 10,000 divergent staples

Have a great day! Joe


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## chris

Trim-Tex said:


> Devin from Boco Painting, we need your UPS able address please
> 
> we have 14 contractors contact us and we will honor all 14
> SDRDrywall Steve Riker was #10 and is the lucky SOB to get the Dou Fast Stapler and 10,000 divergent staples
> 
> Have a great day! Joe


 Are you sure it wasnt Chris from SRD drywall:whistling2:to get the stapel gun and stapels:whistling2:and Tshirts:yes:


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## sdrdrywall

Trim-Tex said:


> Devin from Boco Painting, we need your UPS able address please
> 
> we have 14 contractors contact us and we will honor all 14
> SDRDrywall Steve Riker was #10 and is the lucky SOB to get the Dou Fast Stapler and 10,000 divergent staples
> 
> Have a great day! Joe


Thanks Joe


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## boco

Info sent. Thanks . Cant wait to try the butt boards. Shim on a roll works great. Used it today for around the bathtubs. Nice stuff. Very fast. Less mud.


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## SlimPickins

I came home to a living room full of "presents" from Trim-Tex today....not only are you guys super nice for sending it out, you're also super FAST! I'm stoked to try out the boards, but most especially the shim material....and I'm starting a remodel job on Wednesday that is going to need a ton of it. I'm also looking forward to trying out the other stuff you sent....here's the big question, does the Mud Max come in gallon jugs? I WAS using Super-bond because that's what my supply house stocks, but then I switched to Acro because I could get it in a gallon for a 1/3 of the cost ($26/gallon)....is your pricing competitive on this one? I'd much rather use a drywall product for.........drywall mud:yes:......and I use A LOT of it, on every job.


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I came home to a living room full of "presents" from Trim-Tex today....not only are you guys super nice for sending it out, you're also super FAST! I'm stoked to try out the boards, but most especially the shim material....and I'm starting a remodel job on Wednesday that is going to need a ton of it. I'm also looking forward to trying out the other stuff you sent....here's the big question, does the Mud Max come in gallon jugs? I WAS using Super-bond because that's what my supply house stocks, but then I switched to Acro because I could get it in a gallon for a 1/3 of the cost ($26/gallon)....is your pricing competitive on this one? I'd much rather use a drywall product for.........drywall mud......and I use A LOT of it, on every job.


Beg for 2 jugs of mud max Slim, then you can send one to your new buddy 2buck:whistling2:

Went to get some mud max the other day at my supply house, trim tex sent some samples to him, now he can't find them

Also beg for some of their new "mud set vinyl bead" Supply dude said the other tapers in town were loving the stuff. But then again, he is a sales man


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Beg for 2 jugs of mud max Slim, then you can send one to your new buddy 2buck:whistling2:
> 
> Went to get some mud max the other day at my supply house, trim tex sent some samples to him, now he can't find them
> 
> Also beg for some of their new "mud set vinyl bead" Supply dude said the other tapers in town were loving the stuff. But then again, he is a sales man


I'll try out the little bottle first, and then if I like it I'll beg for two jugs I was going to offer a taping friend of mine one of the rolls of shim, but I'm feeling selfish:whistling2:

And what do you mean, "new" buddy? I thought we had been buddies for a while now


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I'll try out the little bottle first, and then if I like it I'll beg for two jugs I was going to offer a taping friend of mine one of the rolls of shim, but I'm feeling selfish:whistling2:
> 
> And what do you mean, "new" buddy? I thought we had been buddies for a while now


Sorry, only think about my BFF buddy now,,,,,,, Kiwiman, he said I had a nice arse:whistling2:

If you do get some mud max, let me know how much they say to mix with your mud ?????


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## SlimPickins

They sent me a little 16 oz. container, when I go upstairs I'll remember to look on the bottle for you. My living room is filled with trim-tex boxes....I didn't get home until 7:30 last night, and I was way too tired to move boxes of buttboards and shim material to the garage.


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## SlimPickins

It looks like they say to add 8 oz. per bucket of material....that's way better than Super-Bond (straight-flex)....they want you to add the whole 16 oz. container.

I kind of wing it, depending on how much adhesion I think I need. Mud over paint? Lots of glue. Hot mud on metal and fiberglass tape? Lots of glue. Regular applications? Moderate squirts.

One time, I mixed straight glue with 20 minute to fix a crack that had me worried.....holy crap that stuff was bomber. And the crack went away....I think the rock will break before the joint cracks again. (reverse v-cut to add "tooth", v-cut dusted and coated with primer to improve bond, fiba-fuse with hot-mud glue combination, and skim to make it pretty).:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## wnybassman

That was a very generous sample pack! Thank you, and I'm looking forward to giving them a try.


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## 2buckcanuck

Hey slim, since were official buddies now, I found a new avatar for you. It will get you one step closer to the ......... Dark side:whistling2:


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Hey slim, since were official buddies now, I found a new avatar for you. It will get you one step closer to the ......... Dark side:whistling2:


:laughing: I can't afford auto tools....I spent all my money on Festool! Maybe after I buy the Domino:whistling2:

Either way, awesome toaster!


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## Trim-Tex

Mud-Max is designed to improve the strength and adhesive performance of all drywall compounds, textures and plaster products. Mud-Max is a unique formulation containing over 60% adhesive polymer by weight. Perfect when bonding paper, metal or vinyl beads to drywall and applying plaster products onto metal or vinyl beads. One Gallon of Mud-Max will treat up to 16 boxes of compound while improving the workability and smoothness. Don't just thin down your compound with water, give it a boost with Mud-Max.

Mud-Max 4 gallons per box Stock # 850 and MSRP is $29.50 USA 

Several years ago we worked for over 2 years designing and perfecting this formula.
Not all white glues are the same so we use the highest quality and content (63%) plus other special additives to improve workability, smoothness and freeze protection. 

Buy it by the gallon for low cost insurance on any job.
Recomended to use on first coat only, unless your so good you never sand.

I will provide more facts this week when I'm back in the office.
Joe


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## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> Mud-Max is designed to improve the strength and adhesive performance of all drywall compounds, textures and plaster products. Mud-Max is a unique formulation containing over 60% adhesive polymer by weight. Perfect when bonding paper, metal or vinyl beads to drywall and applying plaster products onto metal or vinyl beads. One Gallon of Mud-Max will treat up to 16 boxes of compound while improving the workability and smoothness. Don't just thin down your compound with water, give it a boost with Mud-Max.
> 
> Mud-Max 4 gallons per box Stock # 850 and MSRP is $29.50 USA
> 
> Several years ago we worked for over 2 years designing and perfecting this formula.
> Not all white glues are the same so we use the highest quality and content (63%) plus other special additives to improve workability, smoothness and freeze protection.
> 
> Buy it by the gallon for low cost insurance on any job.
> Recomended to use on first coat only, unless your so good you never sand.
> 
> I will provide more facts this week when I'm back in the office.
> Joe


$29.50 is a ROCKIN' price.....sold! I don't like dealing with those guys at the masonry center anyway:no:


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## Trim-Tex

OOPS, I meant to add Per gallon. after the $29.50 MSRP. 

Pictures and more info coming soon
Joe


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## Mudshark

SlimPickins said:


> $29.50 is a ROCKIN' price.....sold! I don't like dealing with those guys at the masonry center anyway:no:


Yeah it might have been for 4 gallons, but per gallon???:thumbdown: Think I will stick with my taping mud thanks, comes with the glue already in it.


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## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> OOPS, I meant to add Per gallon. after the $29.50 MSRP.
> 
> Pictures and more info coming soon
> Joe


I knew what you meant, and compared to $6.50/16 oz for super bond, it's still a really good price. Acro is $26/gallon, and although it works well, it's really runny...plus, it's for concrete.

Mudhshark.....when you gotta have hot mud, taping mud won't do


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## boco

Thanks Joe. Just got my package today. Everything looks great. Mudmax, buttboards and shim on a roll I get to use tomorrow. Next week I get to use the bullnose ( 3/4' radius bead} adapters and mitre marker. This will make my life so much easier. Thanks again.


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## Trim-Tex

Now that we have 2 dozen rolls out there on DWT we encourage any feed back? 

Also anyone else want to try a roll?

BTW Happy New Year and a prosperous 2012 to everyone!
Joe


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## getplastered

Trim-Tex said:


> Now that we have 2 dozen rolls out there on DWT we encourage any feed back?
> 
> Also anyone else want to try a roll?
> 
> BTW Happy New Year and a prosperous 2012 to everyone!
> Joe



Sent you an email this morning Joe...please and thank you!


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## getplastered

Tell you what I'd really like to try is the bullnose miter tool...see em in the catalog but never on the shelf! Get rid of the adapters...I know, I know...you can do it without...but it's so labor intensive!

Joe??!!:beta1:fftopic:


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## getplastered

getplastered said:


> Sent you an email this morning Joe...please and thank you!


I worked for a guy in northern Ontario for a couple years and they do something I've not seen done very often...guy is mainly a residential builder, once their houses are framed the two labors go around with 8' straight edge and mark all studs that are bowed...exterior walls too...which here are 2X6.

Then they spend 2 days cutting and shimming each crooked stud true. I know your thinking $$$, but these guys do forms to finishing (aside from the taping), so in the long run, it's worth it for them. They have a great reputation in this little town and it's easy to see why. 

When I go into one of their houses, I don't need to bring any quickset...just grab your tape, tools and giver' sh*t!

I usually get 1 or 2 from them a year...it's heaven.

Anyway, the point of my story, wouldn't need to use shims in their houses!


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## getplastered

boco said:


> Thanks Joe. Just got my package today. Everything looks great. Mudmax, buttboards and shim on a roll I get to use tomorrow. Next week I get to use the bullnose ( 3/4' radius bead} adapters and mitre marker. This will make my life so much easier. Thanks again.


Just noticed boco wanted the miter marker too...let me know how it works!


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## Mudshark

We need more builders like that one you mentioned getplastered. :thumbsup:


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## getplastered

Mudshark said:


> We need more builders like that one you mentioned getplastered. :thumbsup:


Dude, tell me about it...guy is good...best I've ever seen...cause he gives a sh*t...


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## justadrywallguy

Trim-Tex said:


> Page #35 in our 2011 catalog.....these products are all designed to be user friendly and to deliver great results! Please visit your local dealer (we have over 1,900 USA Canada and AU dealers) and ask them to carry the products that you want to use.
> 
> No reason not to reward yourselves and your clients
> 
> BTW, Great community and fun personalities here at DWT
> 
> Joe Koenig
> www.trim-tex.com
> www.drywallart.com


just used some butt broads on a big ass ceiling. came out great. My supplier gave me two boxes of mud maxx to try out also.


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## boco

Mitre marker works as intended. I just ordered the a couple of boxes of precut corners but still have a few applications that require doing it by hand. also ordered the wipe off knives and and 2 boxes of the 2 1/2 ' crown. As well as talking my supplier into carrying the chamfer bead. Just finished my first townhouse using the 3/4 bullnose. Owner/builder was using two drywall contractors to complete 28 condos but now he is just using me and my crew. Quality pays :thumbup: . i was wondering what type of mud does trim tex recomend? I have been using mudmax and usg green but was wondering what they recomend?


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## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> Now that we have 2 dozen rolls out there on DWT we encourage any feed back?
> 
> Also anyone else want to try a roll?
> 
> BTW Happy New Year and a prosperous 2012 to everyone!
> Joe


Hi Joe, I used some of the shim on a roll the other day to flush out some door and window jams. Works like a charm, just like I knew it would! Thank you again for the care package! The best part is that now I'm not throwing away half a butt shim or twenty....I can just break/cut off what I need:thumbsup:


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## chris

Just gave it to my hangers this morning. Wont be to job til early next week to see results. The window jams were between 5/8 to 7/8 proud of framing. 5/8 perfect... anything more not so good. Builder asked if I could "FIX" that for him and I thought the roll shims would be perfect:thumbsup:. The insulation on this job kept us from using buttboard but could have used in several areas. Insurance job, complete redo other than some pretty tweaked framing. Will post pic=s of results and builders feedback also. Thanks again TrimTex


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## Trim-Tex

Several years ago a paper shim manufacturer approached T Tex and wanted us to distributed their cardboard shims and we agreed to evaluate the product. Well a skid arrived the next week and over 40% of the product was damaged........ding ding ding a new product was needed and developed. We hope it saves you time and money and we know it will cut down on waste.

Cheers,
Joe


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## carpentaper

Thank you Trimtex. I also recieved the package and greatly appreciate it. I know it probably cost a little more to send it to Canada. Thanks.


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## getplastered

I'm stunned...came home to my trim Tex care pack...it was like Christmas all over again! When Joe said he was sending a sample, I expected a sample! There's enough here to shim 6 houses...poorly framed houses!

Big thanks Joe, will post once my crew and I use them on the next project...


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## Trim-Tex

Been a busy week finishing and crating our booth for the IBS Show ( international builders show) Orlando FLA February 8-11 If your planning on going or close by please look us up at our booth # W670 

Next week we finish and crate our booth for the Big Home Show in Montreal, Quebec February 2-5 

Both shows are 10' x 20' booths with built up rooms that feature many products 

Cheers, Joe


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## chris

remodel up North. Total redo.Lots of exposed beams and screwball framing issues (rockers nightmare) All the window jams were up so builder asked if I could shim them while hanging, I said what do I look like a framer? (I can frame but hr dont need to know). He said keep track of time and bill for it. The guys used almost 1 roll of shims in less than an hour to do all windows. Problem here is they didnt tally me up sht for xtras on fixing framing but the builder sure is tickled. Thanks TrimTex for the killer product that saves time and money:blink:. O forgot the ez breakaway design is ingenious:thumbsup:. First pics are stairway changes being made to stair tower at the BEAST,complete wrap back to treads on steps,tons of zipstrip on beams, and Dollar Mountain (ski hill) Badass halfpipe like 400 yrds. long or better. The guys slickin up the garage on remod.


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## chris

more ...oooops


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## Jason

chris said:


> remodel up North. Total redo.Lots of exposed beams and screwball framing issues (rockers nightmare) All the window jams were up so builder asked if I could shim them while hanging, I said what do I look like a framer? (I can frame but hr dont need to know). He said keep track of time and bill for it. The guys used almost 1 roll of shims in less than an hour to do all windows.


You can use hotmud behind your rock too. Just screw through it after it sets. Works well on bad windows. I butter up the reveal strips with a trowel and waggle them into place.


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## RocknRoller

Our butt joints have never looked better and roll of shim is helpful and is never damaged when needed. Never thought about it before but we threw out a lot of cardboard strips in last 7 years.


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## Paulie

Trim-Tex said:


> Been a busy week finishing and crating our booth for the IBS Show ( international builders show) Orlando FLA February 8-11 If your planning on going or close by please look us up at our booth # W670
> 
> Next week we finish and crate our booth for the Big Home Show in Montreal, Quebec February 2-5
> 
> Both shows are 10' x 20' booths with built up rooms that feature many products
> 
> Cheers, Joe


Just wanted to thank you Joe for the Butt boards ya sent up to us last year for trial. We will be ordering more from you soon as an addition and basements are upcoming to rock and finish.

Thank You, Paul B.


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## saskataper

I love butt boards!:thumb up:
I got the hangers to use it on a ceiling in a big open main floor of the house I'm taping right now and after putting on a first coat with a 7" it looks like I'll be able to coat them almost like a beveled joint I'm probably going to coat it about 16" so the any hollow between the Joists is filled which is about half the width I'd normally coat a butt on a ceiling.


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## carpentaper

the shim on a roll is a brilliant product. it took me a while to remember i even had it but now that i do i am always finding uses for it. sooooo much better than breaking out the table saw or skill saw when i need a to shim something . provided of course thtat it can be shimmed in 1/8" increments.


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> remodel up North. Total redo.Lots of exposed beams and screwball framing issues (rockers nightmare) All the window jams were up so builder asked if I could shim them while hanging, I said what do I look like a framer? (I can frame but hr dont need to know). He said keep track of time and bill for it. The guys used almost 1 roll of shims in less than an hour to do all windows. Problem here is they didnt tally me up sht for xtras on fixing framing but the builder sure is tickled. Thanks TrimTex for the killer product that saves time and money:blink:. O forgot the ez breakaway design is ingenious:thumbsup:. First pics are stairway changes being made to stair tower at the BEAST,complete wrap back to treads on steps,tons of zipstrip on beams, and Dollar Mountain (ski hill) Badass halfpipe like 400 yrds. long or better. The guys slickin up the garage on remod.


Chris, in the stairwell photos, what am I seeing in regards to sheetrock? What are the slots/grooves in the rock?


----------



## chris

The spiral stair pic has a thin strip of wood paneling that flexes. I cant remember name right now its somethin board. I think thats what ur refering to


----------



## Trim-Tex

Thanks for the important feedback guys! If we can improve even the smallest of details and challenges in your day and improve your productivity and end result, then I am a happy man!


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> The spiral stair pic has a thin strip of wood paneling that flexes. I cant remember name right now its somethin board. I think thats what ur refering to


Gotcha, it's wood with big kerfs on the back to help it be bendy. My bad, it looked like rock in one of the photos.

I was all like "I taint never done seed nuttin like dat befoe!"


----------



## chris

Thats it:thumbsup: benderboard


----------



## SlimPickins

Oh, and by the way Joe....I'm going to get some of that 1/16th shim on a roll. I think it will be just what the Dr. ordered. The Dr. being me, of course.:thumbsup:


----------



## Trim-Tex

Trim-Tex said:


> In the spirit of giving, T Tex is offering to the first 10 contractors that e mail Donna in customer service [email protected] 1 box of 48" Buttboard 1bx of 54" Buttboard 1 box 1/8" Shim on a Roll ( 4 rolls )
> 
> Joe



This offer is still available to anyone who hasn't tried these two products.

Thanks


----------



## Arey85

I just shot her an email, thanks for the heads up. Im interested in trying out this shim on a roll. I didn't know something like that existed. I could have saved a lot of time (and cardboard) In the past had I known about this product.


----------



## Trim-Tex

Trim-Tex is still offering a free trial of our Butt Board, Please e mail Donna in customer service [email protected] and we will send you 1 box of 48" Buttboard or 1bx of 54" Buttboard plus one roll of our 1/8" Shim on a Roll 









ButtBoard works fantastic so try it and see for yourself


----------



## icerock drywall

works so good i made my own


----------



## Toolnut

Hey Trim Tex guy just watched the video on your website for installing corner bead. On the video the guy says use mud max for everything but unless i'm mistaken (quite possible) on one of your posts you recommended it only be used on the first coat. Is this something new since the video


----------



## pjwooly

years ago when doing my time as an apprentice,we were taught to batten the back of a butt joint with 3 or 4 battens that were hit in the middle with a knockometer (hammer) to kink them before screwing them to the sheet.This would pull the butt joint in slightly to hide any bulge..the butts are always cut and screwed to the stud these days.I mainly do commercial...it may be different in domestic jobs???


----------



## Trim-Tex

Toolnut, Our Mud-Max compound additive is latex based and will improve the bond of all fast set or ready mixed compounds, textures and plaster products. It works great on bead installation and fill (1st) coats and 2nd coats. It works so good at bonding everything together that on the finish coat (top coat/3rd coat) it will add some extra effort and time to your final sanding. 

The compound that needs the most help is the fast set (hot mud) materials. 

TIP: taping pros that work at Trim-Tex like to use lightweight all purpose like USG blue lid with Mud-Max on fill coats and when you lay it on heavy it shrinks a lot less when drying. The fact that you can set our bead and apply the fill coat right away plus the smaller holes on our Mud Set Beads shrink back a lot less thus allowing the 2nd coat to finish out the bead.


----------



## cazna

Trim tex your buttboards are simply amazing, So easy its crazy, Why oh why dont we have them in nz, Builders here just split the ends of a sheet on a steel batten. Heres a pic of a buttboard on our 13mm ceiling board. The gap between the sheets looks huge, But its not.


----------



## moore

Is that your house Cazna? yeah... Those close-up shots can make a tight fit look like a gap when it's not. 

Please make some vids while your finishing out ... 
To see a drywall man finish out the rock in his own home...
Is a must see!


----------



## cazna

moore said:


> Is that your house Cazna? yeah... Those close-up shots can make a tight fit look like a gap when it's not.
> 
> Please make some vids while your finishing out ...
> To see a drywall man finish out the rock in his own home...
> Is a must see!


 
Ok Moore, Actually i have a few things to post about, Buttboards, Rebatemate, Tapepros Mudbox im going to tape it out with, And tapepros plastic body anglehead, I will do a walk through vid of it rocked it showing where we rebatemated etc and how we boarded it out,, It only a small place compared to your stuff, First thing your gonna say is why are the doors/frames fitted, Thats just how its done here.

Heres a couple more pics, the buttboard and a ceiling sheet going up, See how we glue it, One row of screws though the centre, Two dobs of glue either side. And thats just how the sheets worked out with the buttboard, We couldnt get it away from the steel batten any more, The buttboard still worked to our surprise, We didnt think it would, Thats 13mm wallboard, We didnt thing the buttboard would bend it up at such a short distance from the batten.

Oh and see the edge backblocking, I did the whole house ceilings, All the edges got blocked, It was easy enough, Our guide says if it level 5 then it all needs to be backblocked like this, Im not level 5 ing it, But we get earthquakes so if it stops a crack then ive won.


----------



## Trim-Tex

cazna said:


> Trim tex your buttboards are simply amazing, So easy its crazy, Why oh why dont we have them in nz, Builders here just split the ends of a sheet on a steel batten. Heres a pic of a buttboard on our 13mm ceiling board. The gap between the sheets looks huge, But its not.



Jim Swain and I are currently working out the logistics for ButtBoard and Fire treated BackerBoard coming soon to AU & NZ. 
We are very happy you like how the ButtBoard works and yes they are easy and fast to use. We have it timed out to less than 40 seconds to slip behind & screw, install second board and screws. BTW bends 16mm board perfectly too!

Cheers, Joe


----------



## cazna

Hi Joe and Jim

I have a rep from winstone wallboards coming to visit me in a few weeks, Is it ok if i show him your buttboards, We NEED them here, The two builders i had hepling me board my house out couldnt believe how easy and how well the buttboards worked and want more. Honestly men, Well really do need them here, You just wouldnt believe the wierd and stupied ways they do butts here, They split them on a steel batten, I have lost count years ago just how many screws using only the countersunk edge to try and hold the board on i have used. If they try and back block they just use dobs of wall glue which doesnt work.

The rebatemate is great as well but slower, I dout the builders here would take the time to use that. I wish they would though.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Heres a couple more pics, the buttboard and a ceiling sheet going up, See how we glue it, One row of screws though the centre, Two dobs of glue either side. And thats just how the sheets worked out with the buttboard, We couldnt get it away from the steel batten any more, The buttboard still worked to our surprise, We didnt think it would, Thats 13mm wallboard, We didnt thing the buttboard would bend it up at such a short distance from the batten.


Not to steal any thunder from Joe's product, butt

What you call batten, we call furring/u bar/hat track. it would act as a butt board.

When I was a young buck, and I drywalled in highrise buildings. the tapers would want us to "float the joints". You would land the sheet/butt in the middle of the 16" o/c runs of furring channel (basically 8" in). We would have furring channel pre-cut to 4'6" lengths, and place them in on the butt ends. If you look at the shape of the furring channel, it caused the butt to arch upwards, just enough so the tapers could finish with a 12" box (ceilings only, that were texture sprayed).

So maybe your answer is right under your nose, or in your case, hanging over top of your head:whistling2:


----------



## Trim-Tex

2Buck there are at least 5 reasons metal hat channel is not as good for this application. 

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Trim-Tex said:


> 2Buck there are at least 5 reasons metal hat channel is not as good for this application.
> 
> 1.
> 2.
> 3.
> 4.
> 5.


Joe, you need to hire a new secretary, she forgot to type in your 5 reasons of why:blink:


----------



## Trim-Tex

I was hoping several DWT members would fill in the blanks and that ten thousand ButtBoards would fly out the door this week:blink: 

Let's try this again:
1. Joe has three daughters in college and needs the $$$
2.
3.
4.
5.


----------



## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> I was hoping several DWT members would fill in the blanks and that ten thousand ButtBoards would fly out the door this week:blink:
> 
> Let's try this again:
> 1. Joe has three daughters in college and needs the $$$
> 2.
> 3.
> 4.
> 5.


:laughing: Nice Joe!


----------



## smisner50s

There are a few buttboards in here


----------



## chris

looks dam good:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> looks dam good:thumbsup:


 thanks brother


----------



## smisner50s

Workin on new shirts


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> Workin on new shirts


I added something to your shirt:thumbup:

Since it's a great idea, I should get a free "T" shirt from you:whistling2::jester:


----------



## smisner50s

Nice add on


----------



## Perkcon

Never used the buttboards, after the pics i will have to give them a try. I may be able to get away from stand ups on our commercial jobs. Nice looking product Joe.


----------



## Trim-Tex

Let's try this again:
1. Joe has three daughters in college and needs the $$$
2. Steel hat channel is a narrow target and screws slide
3. Steel hat channel cost almost as much and you still cut it to length
4. Joe has middle daughter in college at New Cross, England
5.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Let's try this again:
1. Joe has three daughters in college and needs the $$$
2. Steel hat channel is a narrow target and screws slide
3. Steel hat channel cost almost as much and you still cut it to length
4. Joe has middle daughter in college at New Cross, England
5.2buck wants a job teaching in Toronto:whistling2:


----------



## VANMAN

2buckcanuck said:


> Let's try this again:
> 1. Joe has three daughters in college and needs the $$$
> 2. Steel hat channel is a narrow target and screws slide
> 3. Steel hat channel cost almost as much and you still cut it to length
> 4. Joe has middle daughter in college at New Cross, England
> 5.2buck wants a job teaching in Toronto:whistling2:


And Joe ,Richie is single!!


----------



## Trim-Tex

If anyone still hasn't tried our ButtBoard and wants to. Please email Donna [email protected] and let her know 54" or 48"

Cheers 
Joe


----------



## Arey85

Joe, I received some butt boards from you the last time you mentioned this promotion. I love them and have since bought a few skids of both lengths and use them everywhere. My only complaint is the packaging on the 48". The strap goes around the boards lengthwise and its so tight that it bends the first two boards in the bundle the opposite direction. In other words the middle of the board is even with the two tabs on the edges if not sticking out more. It's kind of a pain to have to check every one before using them. The 54s come in a full cardboard box with no strap so this doesn't happen with them. Any way to make the packaging on the 48s the same? Thanks


----------



## Trim-Tex

Thank you, thank you Arey85 we are very happy you like and see the value of the product. Thanks for the feedback and next time you place your order with your dealer mention the issue and we will include extra boards to replace the tweaked ones. 

Joe


----------



## Trim-Tex

I was at this jobsite in Florida last week and ther was 30 + bad butt joints and huge windows in every room. Lot's of sympathy and respect for the finishers here











Steve Misner has it figured out!! All smiles on this one:yes: Stonger-Better-Faster


----------



## cazna

Really??? Stronger better faster putting one big butt right down the centre of a big room like that??? Man my thinking of weaker worse and no more faster is way out then?? What happened to staggering the joins for strength?? Please educate me otherwise :blink: Why would you do this?? My guess is that ceiling is split somewhere within 1 year??


----------



## silverstilts

Of coarse after it cracks you can just tell them the control joint is working correctly..


----------



## saskataper

Trim-Tex said:


> I was at this jobsite in Florida last week and ther was 30 + bad butt joints and huge windows in every room. Lot's of sympathy and respect for the finishers here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve Misner has it figured out!! All smiles on this one:yes: Stonger-Better-Faster


I think thats brilliant, the buttboards should add strength to the joints to eliminate cracking. Were the butt boards staggered? i.e. starting with a half a board so the buttboard joints didn't line up with the board joints?


----------



## carpentaper

i think he's done this a few times. i'm interested to hear about the long term results.


----------



## gazman

carpentaper said:


> i think he's done this a few times. i'm interested to hear about the long term results.



:yes::yes::yes:


----------



## carpentaper

it would be awesome if it actually stands the test of time. we already do run joints the full length of rooms anyway, just tapered.


----------



## SlimPickins

carpentaper said:


> it would be awesome if it actually stands the test of time. we already do run joints the full length of rooms anyway, just tapered.


Yes, but those joints are perpendicular to framing. In this instance, with the butt-board application by S. Misner, there's a weak point introduced. They don't just tell us to stagger joints for fun, it's so the line of weakness is broken up. While I love the idea of a 44' long butt joint :whistling2:, I'd be really interested to see how it holds up. I'll gladly change my mind when I see evidence that it works, or when someone can explain the science to me in a way my sad little mind can understand.

Until then, I'm going to stagger my joints.


----------



## cazna

SlimPickins said:


> Yes, but those joints are perpendicular to framing. In this instance, with the butt-board application by S. Misner, there's a weak point introduced. They don't just tell us to stagger joints for fun, it's so the line of weakness is broken up. While I love the idea of a 44' long butt joint :whistling2:, I'd be really interested to see how it holds up. I'll gladly change my mind when I see evidence that it works, or when someone can explain the science to me in a way my sad little mind can understand.
> 
> Until then, I'm going to stagger my joints.


Ditto, Well put slim, Thats my thoughts as well, Stick to tryed and true basics :yes: Well...........Dont be to afraid to try new things but that ceilings unbelieveable, Basic rules of strength..........Gone?? For what gain??? Its still the same amount of work.........ok maybe slightly less but for the massive increase in risk of failure??

It costs a lot to go back and cover furniture etc and repaint, Its just not worth it, fussy me would have back blocked all the tapered seams as well on a ceiling that big, Thats easy to do, 200mm wide strips mudded up as you go and stagger the butts, Real strength there :yes:


----------



## smisner50s

Well i have been doing it this way for a few years now ....and no problems on my end.. but hey im not pushing my method on anybody ..this works great untill it stops working for me i got no reason to change..


----------



## chris

my way of thinking tells me that joint with butt board will be the strongest joint:yes:. The buttboard seam floats in between the trusses,, Its like there isnt a joint cause its floating. The sheets are bonded together with the butt board, then taped and finish. If truses move, so will the joints,, just like a back blocked seam it will move together. If sheets are attached directly to truss and the seam is on a truss then the chances of a crack increase cause now you have several butts breaking on several trusses. Big lids like that need a lil flex. I personally have done some REAL BIG lids and there most always a lil cracking after the first couple years ( hairlines) so Im not convinced the traditional way is 100% proven. I would like to hear the science behind that being a weak spot:whistling2:


----------



## smisner50s

Here is my point of view...not ment to sound rude so sorry if it does...if i have to explain how this method is faster and stronger without someone looking at it and understanding it than its not worth my time and all the naysayers can keep floating out them butts ...letting the studs crown and ruin the joint ..and have light glazing across that joint that is merley paper and tape on top of a nonrecessed surface ...and hoping it LOOKS flat when done..


----------



## chris

cazna said:


> Really??? Stronger better faster putting one big butt right down the centre of a big room like that??? Man my thinking of weaker worse and no more faster is way out then?? What happened to staggering the joins for strength?? Please educate me otherwise :blink: Why would you do this?? My guess is that ceiling is split somewhere within 1 year??


 What happened to using 5/8 for strenth??


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> my way of thinking tells me that joint with butt board will be the strongest joint:yes:. The buttboard seam floats in between the trusses,, Its like there isnt a joint cause its floating. The sheets are bonded together with the butt board, then taped and finish. If truses move, so will the joints,, just like a back blocked seam it will move together. If sheets are attached directly to truss and the seam is on a truss then the chances of a crack increase cause now you have several butts breaking on several trusses. Big lids like that need a lil flex. I personally have done some REAL BIG lids and there most always a lil cracking after the first couple years ( hairlines) so Im not convinced the traditional way is 100% proven. I would like to hear the science behind that being a weak spot:whistling2:


I believe these are strong joints _individually_, but now you've put the area of movement for a _house _in one spot. We're not just talking about drywall here, we're looking at the big picture. I think Butt-boards are great at what they do, and can see the benefit in the application, but I think it needs to be done adhering to standard building tolerances. 

Steve, I meant no offense........as you know, we're prone to sometimes disagree on here


----------



## smisner50s

No prob man...never thought you did..


----------



## cazna

chris said:


> What happened to using 5/8 for strenth??


I dont know your board thicknesses??? Ours is 13mm for lids and 10mm for walls.

I personally believe there is no comparision for strength over a mudded back blocked butt join with covebond and the buttboards, Butt boards would have very little twisting,pulling,expanding strength, All they do is make the board recess up with screws, Very little strength in that, Im not sure if its standard practice for you guys to backblock like we do here????? But thats hell strong and no screws to pop.

I dont mean to sound rude sminsner, This is dwt for talking drywall, But you placed a weak spot right in the middle of a big lid, Any house movement,earthquakes, Etc and its right on that spot straight through the centre, Theres no strength there, And for trim tex to say its all smiles for that just amazes me??? I honestly wouldnt believe it if i didnt see that pic?? Im here to learn and will never know it all.

Trim tex, Kiwiman has a suggestion for the ultimate buttboard, PM him.


----------



## chris

SlimPickins said:


> I believe these are strong joints _individually_, but now you've put the area of movement for a _house _in one spot. We're not just talking about drywall here, we're looking at the big picture. I think Butt-boards are great at what they do, and can see the benefit in the application, but I think it needs to be done adhering to standard building tolerances.
> 
> Steve, I meant no offense........as you know, we're prone to sometimes disagree on here


 I dont believe DRYWALL determines where the weak spots in a house are. I think if you can hang a lid and NOT break on fd up trusses you are better off, but opinions do vary


----------



## moore

chris said:


> I dont believe DRYWALL determines where the weak spots in a house are. I think if you can hang a lid and NOT break on fd up trusses you are better off, but opinions do vary


 If we are talkin factory trusses ...aren't they all ****ed up?
6' level find a truss that don't rock. that's where the butt breaks.


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> I dont believe DRYWALL determines where the weak spots in a house are. I think if you can hang a lid and NOT break on fd up trusses you are better off, but opinions do vary


Drywall doesn't determine where the weak spots are, but drywall is part of a system that limits movement. While not every job is a shear wall application, drywall does limit movement (much like exterior sheathing). 

In Steve's application I believe it's better that he chose to do the 40+' railroad on a main floor with engineered lumber floor joists as opposed to a truss system. The joists won't move as much as the trusses are going to. Still, those floor joists will function better as a system if the floor sheathing and the ceiling drywall have staggered joints.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> I dont believe DRYWALL determines where the weak spots in a house are. I think if you can hang a lid and NOT break on fd up trusses you are better off, but opinions do vary


You can't stop truss lift :yes:, you can only try to control it.

One big long joint down a long truss span, is asking for trouble, unless it's a control joint. Highly doubt a backer board counts as a control joint, since the rock has to be fastened to it.

http://www.trusstmfg.com/id5.html


----------



## keke

cazna said:


> fussy me would have back blocked all the tapered seams as well on a ceiling that big, Thats easy to do, 200mm wide strips mudded up as you go and stagger the butts, Real strength there :yes:


here is not about being fussy, it's compulsory to have back blocking otherwise you lose your warranty


----------



## gazman

keke said:


> here is not about being fussy, it's compulsory to have back blocking otherwise you lose your warranty


:yes::yes::yes:
Page 31.
http://www.gyprock.com.au/downloads/downloads/wGYP547_ ResGuide_may2010_8126.pdf


----------



## Kiwiman

keke said:


> here is not about being fussy, it's compulsory to have back blocking otherwise you lose your warranty


Compulsory here too, anything over 3 sheets wide and all tapers must be back blocked (good thing too), I think Oz and NZ have much the same specs.


----------



## Trim-Tex

We have a 10 + year history selling EZ Backer (steel version) and Butt Board and have never received one call on a problem. I will post test data and photos next week when I'm back from my sales trip.

Joe


----------



## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> We have a 10 + year history selling EZ Backer (steel version) and Butt Board and have never received one call on a problem. I will post test data and photos next week when I'm back from my sales trip.
> 
> Joe


And you encourage railroaded butt joints? 

(While my response may look inflammatory, I'm merely being curious)


----------



## gordie

cazna said:


> Ditto, Well put slim, Thats my thoughts as well, Stick to tryed and true basics :yes: Well...........Dont be to afraid to try new things but that ceilings unbelieveable, Basic rules of strength..........Gone?? For what gain??? Its still the same amount of work.........ok maybe slightly less but for the massive increase in risk of failure??
> 
> It costs a lot to go back and cover furniture etc and repaint, Its just not worth it, fussy me would have back blocked all the tapered seams as well on a ceiling that big, Thats easy to do, 200mm wide strips mudded up as you go and stagger the butts, Real strength there :yes:


 Well there you go glue on a lid now I`ve seen it Moore:jester: And it doesn`t look messy probably works good to.

I notice the lift don`t want to put it up and find out somthing is wrong and have to bring it down eh I think that could be messy:yes:


----------



## cazna

gordie said:


> Well there you go glue on a lid now I`ve seen it Moore:jester: And it doesn`t look messy probably works good to.
> 
> I notice the lift don`t want to put it up and find out somthing is wrong and have to bring it down eh I think that could be messy:yes:


It happens, Glue, Up she goes and , Needs a trim. Its not to bad but yes, The glue spreads a bit, And we do that to the walls as well gordie, One row of screws in the centre, Thats it, Some even take out the wall screws and no way its coming off, The board breaks, I sent moore our site guide that shows it all :yes:


----------



## Trim-Tex

Trust me when I say we are trying to help you all with better products and improved ways to do things. 


We are building a full blown test wall with PSI load cells and PT is sending his top video guy down to film the results at the end of March.








Drywall is not structural and you all deal with so many challenges. Whether you stagger or railroad your butt joints, ButtBoard will help you!
The photo above: the Wisconsin homeowner insisted and bought ButtBoard but the contractor new better and refused to use it. It's obvious he is not very good at his trade!

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Trim-Tex

Was a nice ceiling until winter arrived


----------



## gazman

That sound awesome Joe. Once again Trim Tex goes the extra mile :thumbsup:. I really look forward to seeing the results :yes:.


----------



## moore

I'm sure there's more to this story than just the non use of butt boards..No offense Joe..Just sayin.


----------



## Square Foot

moore said:


> I'm sure there's more to this story than just the non use of butt boards..No offense Joe..Just sayin.


Agreed!


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> I'm sure there's more to this story than just the non use of butt boards..No offense Joe..Just sayin.


Right there with ya big fella...:yes:

It's not just a cracked butt, there's a whole lot of seam cracking too....


----------



## gazman

By the look of it there is no tape or maybe they used the "M" word .


----------



## Square Foot

gazman said:


> By the look of it there is no tape or maybe they used the "M" word .


Magical ???


----------



## gazman

Square Foot said:


> Magical ???



"M"esh.


----------



## Trim-Tex

moore said:


> I'm sure there's more to this story than just the non use of butt boards..No offense Joe..Just sayin.





I totally agree Moore! The sad part is the original ceiling looked almost as bad. The homeowner did a lot of research, contacted us for help. Then hired a local contractor to gut the ceiling and install spray foam insulation, re hang, add layers and finish. It frustrating because all the advice, BBoards and glue were unused by this contractor. And yes it's obvious this stubborn guy has no clue to do it right.


----------



## cazna

Timber battens instead of steel joe???


----------



## icerock drywall

Trim-Tex said:


> Was a nice ceiling until winter arrived


what did they use scrap drywall from another job with mesh tape and light mud with a crap texture ?


----------



## gordie

cazna said:


> It happens, Glue, Up she goes and , Needs a trim. Its not to bad but yes, The glue spreads a bit, And we do that to the walls as well gordie, One row of screws in the centre, Thats it, Some even take out the wall screws and no way its coming off, The board breaks, I sent moore our site guide that shows it all :yes:


 Looks good Canza I to use glue on the walls also but only put 1 screw every 4 ft don`t take them out but the taper could i think guess. I should become the taper.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gordie said:


> Looks good Canza I to use glue on the walls also but only put 1 screw every 4 ft don`t take them out but the taper could i think guess. I should become the taper.


You know what they say Gordie, a Drywaller is just a taper with half his brains missing:whistling2:

Put that beer down and get reading:thumbup::jester:


----------



## Arey85

Just picked up another skid. This time in the cardboard box so no issues with the package strapping. Love the product Joe and thanks for the help.


----------



## Trim-Tex

A85

Would you like to be our guest at the final race of 2013 at Lime Rock CT.

September 27-28


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## PrecisionTaping

Just a basic video we did to demonstrate how Buttboard works for those who are unfamiliar with it.





 
As Joe mentioned there will be more videos to come which will demonstrate strength tests.
Hope you guys enjoy! :thumbsup:


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## keke

such a good video :thumbup:..... I think you are in the wrong trade `


just a comment
I might be wrong but I don't understand why don't you use it for walls too not only for ceiling ?


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## PrecisionTaping

keke said:


> such a good video :thumbup:..... I think you are in the wrong trade `
> 
> 
> just a comment
> I might be wrong but I don't understand why don't you use it for walls too not only for ceiling ?


You're completely right Keke, you can deffinitely use it in the walls.
For this particular video we wanted to show the difference between a conventional butt joint and a buttboard joint to compare the difference in material and labour.
But you can absolutely use it in your walls.
But don't forget Buttboard isn't free either. So if you want to try experiment with it, try it in your ceilings. That's where your most likely to see butt joints anyways.
I try to use them on all my ceilings now.
Eventually I'm going to start stocking them myself and use them everywhere. :thumbsup:

And thanks for the compliment!


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## Newagestucco

PrecisionTaping said:


> Just a basic video we did to demonstrate how Buttboard works for those who are unfamiliar with it.
> 
> How to eliminate butt joints using Trim-Tex Buttboard. - YouTube
> 
> As Joe mentioned there will be more videos to come which will demonstrate strength tests.
> Hope you guys enjoy! :thumbsup:


 
Good job Brian 

I"m sold
the board guys are getting a box of both sizes

nice but joints


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## PrecisionTaping

Newagestucco said:


> Good job Brian
> 
> I"m sold
> the board guys are getting a box of both sizes
> 
> nice but joints


 
Damnit!!
You weren't supposed to see that Rick! :jester:
Now I got competition in town! 

Haha, but seriously! They work awesome! You'll love em. 
So easy to finish!


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## moore

Newagestucco said:


> Good job Brian
> 
> I"m sold
> the board guys are getting a box of both sizes
> 
> nice but joints


 PT charges $3 per ft..:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> PT charges $3 per ft..:whistling2:


I would charge that much too, if I had to work around 10 feet of snow all year long:whistling2::whistling2:


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## cazna

Thats a great vid PT, Well done, Man, You guys just wouldnt believe the nasty nasty screwed up butts on my current job Im trying to screed them out with a 3foot level.............On ONE side??? 

Trim tex buttboards in nz, WHERE THE HELL ARE YOU :notworthy:


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## keke

just curious cazna what the hell was the problem


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## cazna

keke said:


> just curious cazna what the hell was the problem


Mate, Here they back block the butts, Place a piece of wallboard onto the back of the butt, mud it, Then screw 2 battens to the face of the board accross the butt and pack up the edge of the two butts to make a raised spot, Like a buttboard would. All as i think you do too.

So this house has 7 butts in the living lounge kitchen room, I started the job, 3 of them the backboard had not stuck, They tryed but it didnt happen so i made them get up up the the ceiling, rip off the backblock board and replace it, And reset them underneith at the face again, So they used dented twisted steel battens, they tryed again, The other 4 did actually stick and were solid but terribly aligned, Sometimes they just put up a back block and not even brace the butts so then they set all peaked down and crooked.

So i was a bit over once again trying to explain how to do a backblock, Why it needs braced up, And DONT USE WALL GLUE OR HOTMUD, Must be cove bond, I accepted them and figured here i go again, i will just fix the balls up, So i did, Taped, coated, 14 troweled many times trying to make it rounded and spread it far and wide, Sanded them, And sitting there looking up at lunchtime and one right smack in the main entrance where everyone will see and the worst lighting spot is one nasty butt, I held a wider level over it and OMG, I missed my chance to cut the backblock and reset it, Feel like an idiot too, So obvious yet i missed it, They didnt pack it up at all so one end of the board is lower and now that i look at it after sanding its just awful and rounded. Yes im human, Yes i [email protected] up and didnt see it when i should have.

This is how it always is, Builders here just dont get the process of making a backblocked butt, Its to much effort for them, Its a nightmere, Every house, Everytime without fail, The butts are awful, For the love of god trimtex, Get the buttboards in NZ, But your up against it, I just have to show a GIB (Wallboard rep) Them and try and get them here, They might not go for it but hell i have to try.


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## keke

cazna said:


> Mate, Here they back block the butts, Place a piece of wallboard onto the back of the butt, mud it, Then screw 2 battens to the face of the board accross the butt and pack up the edge of the two butts to make a raised spot, Like a buttboard would. All as i think you do too.
> 
> So this house has 7 butts in the living lounge kitchen room, I started the job, 3 of them the backboard had not stuck, They tryed but it didnt happen so i made them get up up the the ceiling, rip off the backblock board and replace it, And reset them underneith at the face again, So they used dented twisted steel battens, they tryed again, The other 4 did actually stick and were solid but terribly aligned, Sometimes they just put up a back block and not even brace the butts so then they set all peaked down and crooked.
> 
> So i was a bit over once again trying to explain how to do a backblock, Why it needs braced up, And DONT USE WALL GLUE OR HOTMUD, Must be cove bond, I accepted them and figured here i go again, i will just fix the balls up, So i did, Taped, coated, 14 troweled many times trying to make it rounded and spread it far and wide, Sanded them, And sitting there looking up at lunchtime and one right smack in the main entrance where everyone will see and the worst lighting spot is one nasty butt, I held a wider level over it and OMG, I missed my chance to cut the backblock and reset it, Feel like an idiot too, So obvious yet i missed it, They didnt pack it up at all so one end of the board is lower and now that i look at it after sanding its just awful and rounded. Yes im human, Yes i [email protected] up and didnt see it when i should have.
> 
> This is how it always is, Builders here just dont get the process of making a backblocked butt, Its to much effort for them, Its a nightmere, Every house, Everytime without fail, The butts are awful, For the love of god trimtex, Get the buttboards in NZ, But your up against it, I just have to show a GIB (Wallboard rep) Them and try and get them here, They might not go for it but hell i have to try.


before you get buttboard I think you should show your builders this http://www.gyprock.com.au/resources/filemanager/datasheets.aspx?fileIteration=145 believe me I've never had a problem it works exactly like buttboard


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## Arey85

Trim-Tex said:


> A85
> 
> Would you like to be our guest at the final race of 2013 at Lime Rock CT.
> 
> September 27-28


Sure joe. I have a guy that works with me that loves racing. Could I get two tickets? Maybe a few trim tex tshirts to wear to the race also?


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## thefinisher

How many pieces/boxes of buttboards does the typical say 300 board house take given it isn't too cut up? Trying to come up with some pricing options to give to my builders.


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## PrecisionTaping

thefinisher said:


> How many pieces/boxes of buttboards does the typical say 300 board house take given it isn't too cut up? Trying to come up with some pricing options to give to my builders.


Why don't you just count how many butt joints there are?
I don't know what your houses look like....
You can fly me out there if you want and I'll gladly measure for you! :yes:


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## Arey85

thefinisher said:


> How many pieces/boxes of buttboards does the typical say 300 board house take given it isn't too cut up? Trying to come up with some pricing options to give to my builders.


We're doing a series of 294 sheet houses right now 9's on first floor 8's upstairs and we don't use them in the garage. I bring 2 boxes of 48 and one box of 54 and always have a some left over. As much as my loaders hate it, if I have use for 2- 16' sheets on a floor I make them bring me two. My breakdowns are cut up like you wouldn't believe. A lot of guys will just count 12's and standups. I get a little of everything and every door jamb is marked with what sheets go in that particular room when I measure so the hangers aren't scratching their heads. I'm a pain but hate me for the day and its worth it to me to reduce the number of butts. Trust me, you will never regret using them.


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## thefinisher

PrecisionTaping said:


> Why don't you just count how many butt joints there are?
> I don't know what your houses look like....
> You can fly me out there if you want and I'll gladly measure for you! :yes:


I knew that would be the first answer lol :yes:. Truth is I just wanted to see what kind of spread there is on varying answers, that way I can find an average of sorts to base my estimates on. I reckon I will just go count the butts on our houses though :thumbsup:


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## chris

thefinisher said:


> I knew that would be the first answer lol :yes:. Truth is I just wanted to see what kind of spread there is on varying answers, that way I can find an average of sorts to base my estimates on. I reckon I will just go count the butts on our houses though :thumbsup:


 Looks like you have to set foot on the job...:jester: Really tho, you can figure it out in your head while looking at plans.. ? Bedrooms get 8 or 9 pcs ( buttboard) bigger rooms a few more, skip garage, couple in the halls...


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## Trim-Tex

PT: you and your Boyz are Rock Stars. :rockon:

Cazna: boards are in stock in AU please call Jim Swain :yes:

Arey 85: You are IN :thumbup:	for 3 tickets (include family or friend) :thumbup1: shirts I'll send ahead of time so pm me your sizes and address BTW who is your TT dealer?

Chris: when are you coming to Chicago ?


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## Trim-Tex

Yesterday I went to a $800k model/ show home with Saskataper, and this is a builder that in the past has always chosen the low bidder and not Scott. You could easily see all the butt joints in the house and he asked Scott if he could fix all the cracks and splits on the second floor from the truss uplift. By the end of our visit Mr. Builder wants Step A Bull, flat walls & lids (ButtBoard) and perimeter crack protection with our new Truss Framing Angle and EZ Tray and our LED light cove bead. Scott did a nice job selling his talents and I think he will get the next house which leads to 4 more later this year.


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## Toontowntaper

Thanks Joe for everything 

I ran into a GC yesterday and was telling him about the trim Tex products. And how much better they are then the standard beads. I also mentioned the butt board and he said he would like to see how that works. If he likes it he will be using it and getting other crews to use it. 

Thats awesome to hear for Scott great guy and he knows what he is doing with the products.


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## thefinisher

chris said:


> Looks like you have to set foot on the job...:jester: Really tho, you can figure it out in your head while looking at plans.. ? Bedrooms get 8 or 9 pcs ( buttboard) bigger rooms a few more, skip garage, couple in the halls...


I literally just walked in one of our houses and forgot to count the dang butt joints . I was too worried about taking the extra mud set bead to the job and didn't even dawn on me to worry about the butts. Oh well I need to get with our supplier on their pricing of the buttboards anyway.


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## saskataper

Trim-Tex said:


> Yesterday I went to a $800k model/ show home with Saskataper, and this is a builder that in the past has always chosen the low bidder and not Scott. You could easily see all the butt joints in the house and he asked Scott if he could fix all the cracks and splits on the second floor from the truss uplift. By the end of our visit Mr. Builder wants Step A Bull, flat walls & lids (ButtBoard) and perimeter crack protection with our new Truss Framing Angle and EZ Tray and our LED light cove bead. Scott did a nice job selling his talents and I think he will get the next house which leads to 4 more later this year.


A big thanks to Joe for spending most of his time here with a couple of the little guys, it meant the world to Lisa and I.
An example of what the TrimTex product has done for me is a job I went to look at on Wednesday, it started out as a simple basement taping job and by the time I left they wanted quotes on trimtex crown moulding and wainscotting throughout the basement which easily doubled or even tripled the size of the job.


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## Trim-Tex

Here's a shout out to Saskataper for inviting me to his house and personally cooking a wonderful chicken dinner. This DWT guy has many talents! Thank you Scott!

7.0


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## jswain

keke said:


> before you get buttboard I think you should show your builders this http://www.gyprock.com.au/resources/filemanager/datasheets.aspx?fileIteration=145 believe me I've never had a problem it works exactly like buttboard


Hey Keke, is there more labour in screwing the 4 battens vs the buttboards? Also if you're interested in trying the buttboards I'm sure we could send you a box via you're local board distributor, just PM me your contact details and I'll be in touch.


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## jcampbell

Those that use buttboards......do you find when you run a box along the top or bottom(perpendicular to it) that the box drops in the void created by the buttboards looking like a high shoulder. I found that prefilling that area before running the flat helped. Not sure if I need to do that but it seemed to help. A few places I ran the flats then the butts then after it set up I skimmed the top and or bottom of the butt. Just wondering if I can avoid that step or what your process is .... Flats then butts or butts then flats....any prefill at the tops or bottoms? Should I do the butts first?


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## 2buckcanuck

jcampbell said:


> Those that use buttboards......do you find when you run a box along the top or bottom(perpendicular to it) that the box drops in the void created by the buttboards looking like a high shoulder. I found that prefilling that area before running the flat helped. Not sure if I need to do that but it seemed to help. A few places I ran the flats then the butts then after it set up I skimmed the top and or bottom of the butt. Just wondering if I can avoid that step or what your process is .... Flats then butts or butts then flats....any prefill at the tops or bottoms? Should I do the butts first?


Depending on your system, I would say the MAJORITY (see (SP) cazna the picky) go flats then butts. As for the pre-fill, butts are the one thing to prefill, b/c of gaps, loose paper etc, but that's a whole other thread as to why to pre-fill them:yes:

Usually best to work your butts into the flats, not the other way around. IMO


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## jcampbell

2buckcanuck said:


> Depending on your system, I would say the MAJORITY (see (SP) cazna the picky) go flats then butts. As for the pre-fill, butts are the one thing to prefill, b/c of gaps, loose paper etc, but that's a whole other thread as to why to pre-fill them:yes:
> 
> Usually best to work your butts into the flats, not the other way around. IMO


Ya I know prefilling the gaps etc. I'm asking about the depression from the buttboards and where they meet the beveled flats. When running a flat first the box drops in the depression from buttboards causing a low spot. Just wondering If I should run the butts first filling the depression before the flats. I guess that would make more sense. Then there's running through wet mud if the house isn't that big. I guess that can work both ways. I've never used buttboards before but the work really well for homemade ones. They do make really flat buts but that still have to be skimmed out to 14 to 16 inches . The depression starts on the framing members . All my framing is 16 o/c. Even strapping.


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## 2buckcanuck

jcampbell said:


> Ya I know prefilling the gaps etc. I'm asking about the depression from the buttboards and where they meet the beveled flats. When running a flat first the box drops in the depression from buttboards causing a low spot. Just wondering If I should run the butts first filling the depression before the flats. I guess that would make more sense. Then there's running through wet mud if the house isn't that big. I guess that can work both ways. I've never used buttboards before but the work really well for homemade ones. They do make really flat buts but that still have to be skimmed out to 14 to 16 inches . The depression starts on the framing members . All my framing is 16 o/c. Even strapping.


Will half to admit ,I have never played with the butt boards before.

But we are experimenting with a different way of doing the butts (cant remember why:whistling2

After we tape out a job now, we coat over the butts right away with the curve trowel or 10" box (depends on job size), you could use a flat trowel too. just keep a bare minimum of mud over the tape. If using the box, it's one of the few times you will constantly adjust your #'s, you want a millimeter of mud over the butt tape, not a ton of it. then next day when you run your flat tapes, you can double out your butts with the box. (or in your case, single it out if using butt board)............chit butt boards:furious:

I'm too lazy to re-type out my whole post, just load/fill up your butts day before you run flats:thumbup:


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## cazna

Or use or amazing hotmud and do em 3 coats in one day :whistling2:


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## D's

I like to first coat the buttboard joints same day they get taped, by hand with a 16" trowel. Pretty quick when there's only a dozen or so. That way the flat joints can be boxed the following day without "dropping into the void".

For second coat, it's the usual flats first then the butts & blend them in.


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## keke

cazna said:


> Or use or amazing hotmud and do em 3 coats in one day :whistling2:


3 coats in 1 day is definitely not a good idea


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## cazna

keke said:


> 3 coats in 1 day is definitely not a good idea


 
Easy done if needed, Let it dry up, One or two of airdry, Done, No problems at all. 

Not three in one day, Sand the next.


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## jswain

If there's any more guys in Australia wanting to trial the Buttboards just PM me and we'll get some out to you


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## jcampbell

jswain said:


> If there's any more guys in Australia wanting to trial the Buttboards just PM me and we'll get some out to you


I know a guy in Canada who would like a few . Could show my supplier and get him to stick them.


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## PrecisionTaping

jcampbell said:


> I know a guy in Canada who would like a few . Could show my supplier and get him to stick them.


I'll make sure to send some out your way Jay.
Do you still need that other stuff we talked about as well?
Sorry I havent gotten back to you. Been swamped.
PM some details as well as your suppliers info. :thumbsup:


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## jcampbell

PrecisionTaping said:


> I'll make sure to send some out your way Jay.
> Do you still need that other stuff we talked about as well?
> Sorry I havent gotten back to you. Been swamped.
> PM some details as well as your suppliers info. :thumbsup:


Will do.


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## jswain

PrecisionTaping said:


> I'll make sure to send some out your way Jay.
> Do you still need that other stuff we talked about as well?
> Sorry I havent gotten back to you. Been swamped.
> PM some details as well as your suppliers info. :thumbsup:


Thanks PT


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## Trim-Tex

WOW PT... You are a stand up guy! A free t shirt, hat, 2 Phatty boys and you've become one of our best representatives.

I want to personally thank you for all your hard work creating the Buttboard video. It is a great production and it shows the world just how talented you and your team are! Kudos, congrats and Thank You!

Joe Koenig
Trim-Tex


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## Newagestucco

Trim-Tex said:


> WOW PT... You are a stand up guy! A free t shirt, hat, 2 Phatty boys and you've become one of our best representatives.
> 
> I want to personally thank you for all your hard work creating the Buttboard video. It is a great production and it shows the world just how talented you and your team are! Kudos, congrats and Thank You!
> 
> Joe Koenig
> Trim-Tex


 
yes Brian convince me to get the buttboards with that vedio

We have reno"s and houses comming up 
I already warm my boardmen, they have to use them on the next projects. Also went to our supply store to make sure they have alot on order 
my only concern now, its going to make the rookies look good now
bad for me good for trim tex lol


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## PrecisionTaping

Newagestucco said:


> yes Brian convince me to get the buttboards with that vedio
> 
> We have reno"s and houses comming up
> I already warm my boardmen, they have to use them on the next projects. Also went to our supply store to make sure they have alot on order
> my only concern now, its going to make the rookies look good now
> bad for me good for trim tex lol


Don't worry Rick, most of the guys in town don't know what they are yet. As far as I know, I'm the only one using them.
And yourself as well now :thumbsup:
You'll love em!


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## PrecisionTaping

Trim-Tex said:


> WOW PT... You are a stand up guy! A free t shirt, hat, 2 Phatty boys and you've become one of our best representatives.
> 
> I want to personally thank you for all your hard work creating the Buttboard video. It is a great production and it shows the world just how talented you and your team are! Kudos, congrats and Thank You!
> 
> Joe Koenig
> Trim-Tex


oh! Joe! By the way, I need a box of Buttboard! :jester::whistling2:


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## Trim-Tex

10-4 pt


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## keke

cazna said:


> Mate, Here they back block the butts, Place a piece of wallboard onto the back of the butt, mud it, Then screw 2 battens to the face of the board accross the butt and pack up the edge of the two butts to make a raised spot, Like a buttboard would. All as i think you do too.
> 
> So this house has 7 butts in the living lounge kitchen room, I started the job, 3 of them the backboard had not stuck, They tryed but it didnt happen so i made them get up up the the ceiling, rip off the backblock board and replace it, And reset them underneith at the face again, So they used dented twisted steel battens, they tryed again, The other 4 did actually stick and were solid but terribly aligned, Sometimes they just put up a back block and not even brace the butts so then they set all peaked down and crooked.
> 
> So i was a bit over once again trying to explain how to do a backblock, Why it needs braced up, And DONT USE WALL GLUE OR HOTMUD, Must be cove bond, I accepted them and figured here i go again, i will just fix the balls up, So i did, Taped, coated, 14 troweled many times trying to make it rounded and spread it far and wide, Sanded them, And sitting there looking up at lunchtime and one right smack in the main entrance where everyone will see and the worst lighting spot is one nasty butt, I held a wider level over it and OMG, I missed my chance to cut the backblock and reset it, Feel like an idiot too, So obvious yet i missed it, They didnt pack it up at all so one end of the board is lower and now that i look at it after sanding its just awful and rounded. Yes im human, Yes i [email protected] up and didnt see it when i should have.
> 
> This is how it always is, Builders here just dont get the process of making a backblocked butt, Its to much effort for them, Its a nightmere, Every house, Everytime without fail, The butts are awful, For the love of god trimtex, Get the buttboards in NZ, But your up against it, I just have to show a GIB (Wallboard rep) Them and try and get them here, They might not go for it but hell i have to try.


Hi Cazna maybe it's a little bit late but with this pics I wanna show you my way for joints. Never had a problem :yes: :thumbsup:


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## cazna

Dude!! That looks sweet :thumbsup:, So what did you do?? Bend the steel battens a bit??

I guess you could just cut em 400mm long, Put something on the ground?? Steel rod??? Opened builders ruler, Builders pencil?? nail with head cut off?? Put it in the middle and stand on each end???


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## gazman

Yes you bend the batten Caz. We would cut them about 350mm long, give the batten a tap with the back of the axe. It forms a recess as you can see by Keke`s Pic.


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## keke

cazna said:


> Dude!! That looks sweet :thumbsup:, So what did you do?? Bend the steel battens a bit??
> 
> I guess you could just cut em 400mm long, Put something on the ground?? Steel rod??? Opened builders ruler, Builders pencil?? nail with head cut off?? Put it in the middle and stand on each end???


thanks Cazna , yes I cut 300mm max and hit them in the middle with the hammer to bend :thumbsup:


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## cazna

keke said:


> thanks Cazna , yes I cut 300mm max and hit them in the middle with the hammer to bend :thumbsup:


Well this deserves a good on ya mate, Another bloody good job :thumbsup:


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## cazna

Check out this butt, 4f wide and its still awful.

Tryed bending some battens, Man it takes some force, I think ours are bigger and thicker than the oz battens?? 35mm deep???


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## keke

cazna said:


> Check out this butt, 4f wide and its still awful.
> 
> Tryed bending some battens, Man it takes some force, I think ours are bigger and thicker than the oz battens?? 35mm deep???


we have the same battens here, 35 mm. On that job I sent you photos for I use 16 mm and that's stronger than 35mm. Your bend it's ok. Make sure the joint is in the middle of the bend and don't push hard when you screw another one so it doesn't pop. I recommend you for the beginning to use drill point screws. let me know if works


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## jcampbell

cazna said:


> Check out this butt, 4f wide and its still awful.
> 
> Tryed bending some battens, Man it takes some force, I think ours are bigger and thicker than the oz battens?? 35mm deep???


Do you own a table saw? Take 1/2 " osb and rip a piece 4' x 6". Jack the blade up 3 1/16" and put it on a 2 1/2 degree bevel and run the osb through the saw o its edge. Do this only if you can't get the real thing tho . Works great


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## Arey85

A big thanks to Joe from trim tex for the sample box I received this weekend. You're a real stand up guy for connecting with all of us on drywall talk and for making sure we're getting the most out of what trim tex has to offer.


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## Newagestucco

buttboard

tried them on the reno job very nice
every house from now on the installers will be using them


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## jcampbell

Arey85 said:


> A big thanks to Joe from trim tex for the sample box I received this weekend. You're a real stand up guy for connecting with all of us on drywall talk and for making sure we're getting the most out of what trim tex has to offer.


Yes joe, thank you and also pt for hooking me and my supplier up with a box . Will be using them all the time from now on out!!


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## Trim-Tex

Thank you guys for the opportunities. 

Anybody else want to try these products and achieve perfectly flat walls and ceilings??


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## Deezal

I would plz. Wouldn't be converting to this completely as I don't think my general/ Dc's would let me but I always like to try new stuff.


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## savant

I'm fond of Butt-Boards, never heard of Shim on a Roll.


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## Mountain Man

Trim-Tex said:


> Thank you guys for the opportunities.
> 
> Anybody else want to try these products and achieve perfectly flat walls and ceilings??


I would like to try these products along with you mud set beads. Does the mud set come in bullnose?


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Deezal said:


> I would plz. Wouldn't be converting to this completely as I don't think my general/ Dc's would let me but I always like to try new stuff.





Mountain Man said:


> I would like to try these products along with you mud set beads. Does the mud set come in bullnose?


Hey guys.
Sorry for the delayed response.
Joe is currently out of Country. I spoke to him today, he's visiting the boys down under, working on a new prototype tool for all of us to enjoy in the near future.

If you PM your info I will gladly make sure that you receive your free samples.

And yes Mountain Man, the mud set absolutely do come in bullnose.
Virtually indestructible! We started working on a promotional video today, smashing the beads, and I was blown away by the bullnose mudset. We could not get them to break. Unbelievable. :thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

PrecisionTaping said:


> Hey guys.
> Sorry for the delayed response.
> Joe is currently out of Country. I spoke to him today, he's visiting the boys down under, working on a new prototype tool for all of us to enjoy in the near future.
> 
> If you PM your info I will gladly make sure that you receive your free samples.
> 
> And yes Mountain Man, the mud set absolutely do come in bullnose.
> Virtually indestructible! We started working on a promotional video today, smashing the beads, and I was blown away by the bullnose mudset. We could not get them to break. Unbelievable. :thumbsup:


A little Birdie tells me that Joe wanted to check out our V8s again .


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## Trim-Tex

G'day boys, busy day at dealers in Brisbane today. Thanks PT for Covering for me. Tom Gill and I will launch a very cool new tool any day now. Stay tuned.

Please send all product trial and requests to Donna R. [email protected] 
She will get it done! 

Cheers, Joe


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## PrecisionTaping

Here's an idea of the quality of beads you'd be working with.


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## saskataper

Can I order one now? I know it will be great.


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## Trim-Tex

Flying to LAX Los Angeles and I have a dozen super cool new tools in my luggage. The other 200 are in route. Tom G. And TapePro did a fantastic job on the design and manufacture of them! I will do the product launch on Tuesday.

Our one year collaboration and effort on this tool has been very fun and extremely rewarding, as the performance is excellent! 

Down Under Jo


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## gazman

Sounds like you may need a down under tester :whistling2:.


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## moore

Trim-Tex said:


> Flying to LAX Los Angeles and I have a dozen super cool new tools in my luggage. The other 200 are in route. Tom G. And TapePro did a fantastic job on the design and manufacture of them! I will do the product launch on Tuesday.
> 
> Our one year collaboration and effort on this tool has been very fun and extremely rewarding, as the performance is excellent!
> 
> Down Under Jo


 Watch out for the LAPD Joe! Just act kool ..Don't look like a drywaller!:whistling2:


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## Mountain Man

Thanks Brian and trim tex!! I just got my mud set bullnose, buttboards and a whole stack of sanding blocks. I can't wait to put them to the test!! Much appreciated!!


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## PrecisionTaping

Mountain Man said:


> Thanks Brian and trim tex!! I just got my mud set bullnose, buttboards and a whole stack of sanding blocks. I can't wait to put them to the test!! Much appreciated!!


Nice bro! Good for you!
Let me know what you think of them.


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## Toontowntaper

I love the mudset bead however I do wish that full boxes of bead also included some pre miter pieces. 

Maybe make them so you can snap it off at for example
7' = 2 -- 3 1/2' 
8' = 2---4'

I know that you can pick up boxes of I believe 2' and 30 pieces ... However they would need to be special order since supplier doesn't stock them. Something to possibly think about Joe 

Also if possible would I be able to get some samples of the butt boards to show to some developers and DWC 

Again very happy with TRIM TEX and have converted a few people. Now to take over the world


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## Deezal

Just picked up my package from the local shoemaker drywall, thanks to Joe for the chance to try out the new products. Doing more boarding than anything at the moment so should nave ample opportunity to use the buttbpards, giving a case of the mudset 90 to the boys taping out our current job and as it is commercial I figured it would be a perfect place to let loose a product more durable and impact resistant. Ill get some pics up soon of the stuff in action. Special thanks to Donnie at wallboard tools for makeing it all happen and dean from shpemaker Grande Prairie for haveing his guys accept and process all my free stuff!


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## gazman

Here is another great Trim Tex product. I also got to use some Trim Tex tear away yesterday. It gave a great finish against a brick fire place. :thumbsup:


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## keke

gazman said:


> Here is another great Trim Tex product. I also got to use some Trim Tex tear away yesterday. It gave a great finish against a brick fire place. :thumbsup:


I also love Trim Tex especially tear away,obtus and P50.I find they are unbeatable on these 3 products :thumbsup:


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## Trim-Tex

Toontowntaper said:


> I love the mudset bead however I do wish that full boxes of bead also included some pre miter pieces.
> 
> Maybe make them so you can snap it off at for example
> 7' = 2 -- 3 1/2'
> 8' = 2---4'
> 
> I know that you can pick up boxes of I believe 2' and 30 pieces ... However they would need to be special order since supplier doesn't stock them. Something to possibly think about Joe
> 
> Also if possible would I be able to get some samples of the butt boards to show to some developers and DWC
> 
> Again very happy with TRIM TEX and have converted a few people. Now to take over the world


Andrew, Your dealer in Toon can give you ButtBoard just talk to Don.

He can also bring in the premitered corners for your bulk heads
http://www.trim-tex.com/2013_Catalog.pdf

2nd string goalie for the Wild is from Toon town and he got into last nights game vs the Hawks.

Cheers, Joe


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## 2buckcanuck

Trim-Tex said:


> Andrew, Your dealer in Toon can give you ButtBoard just talk to Don.
> 
> He can also bring in the premitered corners for your bulk heads
> http://www.trim-tex.com/2013_Catalog.pdf
> 
> 2nd string goalie for the Wild is from Toon town and he got into last nights game vs the Hawks.
> 
> Cheers, Joe


I think Hockey has turned Joe into a Canadian, making him a friendly passive aggressive :yes:

All friendly and helpful in the first part of the post, then drives a knife to heart dissing a loss to a Toon goalie last night.:yes:

Technically he was a 3rd string goalie......

Oopps just did it myself:whistling2:


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## Toontowntaper

Josh Harding is from Regina and never played for our Saskatoon blades .... He played for Regina pats.... But it's good to see a Saskatchewan boy making it in the big league..... My buddy Ryan Keller however played for our Saskatoon blades before Ottawa senators and he signed a one year contract with the Edmonton oilers 

I also know Shea weber through buddies who live out in Bc


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## Trim-Tex

"Welcome to the NHL kid" Darcy Kuemper started the 2nd period, and yes he did get smoked by Sharp on the first shot. Your Toon town native did settle down and played a solid game after that. At 6'5" he has a ton of potential and is part of the Wild's prospect club, that is ranked #1 by the hockey experts. 

I do like the Leafs to beat Boston, so I'm with you 2 Buck


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## Trim-Tex TechSupport

Someone asked us if you could split a piece of Buttboard to use around a cam light cut out, and the answer is YES! We mocked it up just be sure and it worked great as you can see in the pictures below! 




























Thanks and please keep the questions coming!


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## D's

What about in fire rated assemblies? I just passed the submittal sheet to an architect and building inspector and they said no-way until they see something saying its been tested. I'll forward the discussion to Joe's email.


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## Trim-Tex TechSupport

Fire use in a fire rated assembly you will have to check with the Architect or local code authority since local codes and architect designs may vary.


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## Arey85

Did I mention that I love buttboards?


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## Kiwiman

I wish New Zealand loved them enough to start using them, problem is here the butt joins must be back blocked with drywall and a hotmud type adhesive (which I agree with), but I think buttboards would be a better and more fool proof system, it's not very often I come across a back blocked butt that has been shimmed right so that it leaves a nice concave butt like butt boards do, they're either too deep, not deep enough or one side up and the other side down. 
So unless Winstones gets with the 21st century we won't be allowed to use them without voiding the drywall system warranty


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## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> I wish New Zealand loved them enough to start using them, problem is here the butt joins must be back blocked with drywall and a hotmud type adhesive (which I agree with), but I think buttboards would be a better and more fool proof system, it's not very often I come across a back blocked butt that has been shimmed right so that it leaves a nice concave butt like butt boards do, they're either too deep, not deep enough or one side up and the other side down.
> So unless Winstones gets with the 21st century we won't be allowed to use them without voiding the drywall system warranty


We do now have them, At trowel trades, But like you say winstones at this stage is quiet, Like fibafuse. 

That ute deck full about is about $3000 worth, Just over $200 a box I think they are.

I gave a few from the sample box I got to a couple of builders here, First they were all Wft are those???? Then I told them to watch pts clip and then they used them and they were all, OMG they are awesome, Why the hell cant we get them here.

They were awesome too, So nice knowing what each butt is set like, Makes them easy to do, If you had ten backblocked joins every one is different.


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## mikegp

$200 a box? I thought they were $60ish a box. Unless those are bigger boxes, but I'm pretty sure I paid around $70-$80 shipped for a box of 54" boards.


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## mikegp

Here:

http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=234


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## 2buckcanuck

Kiwiman said:


> I wish New Zealand loved them enough to start using them, problem is here the butt joins must be back blocked with drywall and a hotmud type adhesive (which I agree with), but I think buttboards would be a better and more fool proof system, it's not very often I come across a back blocked butt that has been shimmed right so that it leaves a nice concave butt like butt boards do, they're either too deep, not deep enough or one side up and the other side down.
> So unless Winstones gets with the 21st century we won't be allowed to use them without voiding the drywall system warranty


Laughing my arse off, that you Kiwi's want to enter the 21st century









Don't fear Kiwiman, help is on the way, theres a kiwi that lives near you, that's working on a jet pack 
http://www.ctvnews.ca/sci-tech/new-...ake-off-after-getting-certification-1.1411872

Those poor sheep are not going to stand a chance now:whistling2:

Or maybe you can go bug this m8, and tell him you want to test it for in door use. See how fast you can coat those ceiling screws out


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## 2buckcanuck

I could of used some of that shim on the roll stuff last week:furious:

Guess what the drywallers screwed up in my last house:furious:

They had the drywall covering the flange of the tub surround, which made it impossible to install the trim tex bullnose bead straight. That's where it sucks having pass drywall experience, the DWC goes "oh can you fix that for me":whistling2:

So.......I had to router off the bottom of the back sheet, then remove the 2 side sheets. Then I cut strips of cardboard up, from the mud boxes, which acted more like "depth guides" for the roofing nails I used to install the cardboard. Then when I installed the drywall back on, I made sure I screwed off near the roofing nails, so the drywall would remain consistent/level. 

But in one way I could blame the builder too. A lot of the builders install some trim or a roll of ceramic tile around the edge of the tubs, well this particular builder does not. I think the drywallers thought they were doing me a favour by drywalling it tight to the tub, but they weren't.

There was another corner tub surround in the other washroom, I bit the bullet on that one, and built the warped walls out with mud. I was afraid if I cut the drywall back out with the router, there would be no backers/studs to support the drywall.


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## PrecisionTaping

Arey85 said:


> Did I mention that I love buttboards?


Ditto!!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj58z3jDlfw


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## Trim-Tex

More and more of you are building better homes with flatter walls and ceilings utilizing Butt Board & Shim On A Roll. 

THANK YOU!! 

Here is a tip: As you use bigger quantities of Butt Board have your favorite dealer order them in bulk skid, stock # 825s (500pcs no boxes) this will save you $.45 per board and cut down on job site waste. 

Have a great day!
Joe


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## Gary

Trim-Tex said:


> More and more of you are building better homes with flatter walls and ceilings utilizing Butt Board & Shim On A Roll.
> 
> THANK YOU!!
> 
> Here is a tip: As you use bigger quantities of Butt Board have your favorite dealer order them in bulk skid, stock # 825s (500pcs no boxes) this will save you $.45 per board and cut down on job site waste.
> 
> Have a great day!
> Joe


How would I order this? No dealers in my area (Denver) and no purchase link on the site.


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## PrecisionTaping

Gary said:


> How would I order this? No dealers in my area (Denver) and no purchase link on the site.


Im sure there's Trim-Tex dealers in your area. They might not stock this particular item but I'm sure they'll carry some Trim-Tex items and that they can order it for you.
If not you can purchase some from their E-store
48"
http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=234
54"
http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=235

What's your zipcode? Trim-Tex can find your nearest dealer.


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## Gary

PrecisionTaping said:


> Im sure there's Trim-Tex dealers in your area. They might not stock this particular item but I'm sure they'll carry some Trim-Tex items and that they can order it for you.
> If not you can purchase some from their E-store
> 48"
> http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=234
> 54"
> http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=235
> 
> What's your zipcode? Trim-Tex can find your nearest dealer.


Okay I checked on the website and found a dealer in Denver. I'll see if they carry buttboard, if not I'll have them order some for me.


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## Gary

I can see how Buttboard would save on labor and materials, so does it pay to use them everywhere, or just in critical lighting areas?


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## PrecisionTaping

Gary said:


> I can see how Buttboard would save on labor and materials, so does it pay to use them everywhere, or just in critical lighting areas?


Well you're essentially paying yourself right?
I don't supply material so it only saves me on time.
For the most part I always suggest it in ceilings. That's where bad lighting might show your joints.
But as of recently, we've been using it absolutely everywhere.
We just keep a miter saw handy and we use them for everything. 
Before I bought my new 12" milwaukee miter saw, we just cut them with an OLFA knife. Just scribe it a few times and slowly start to bend it and it will break as you keep cutting. It's not hard at all.
So for us, it's worth it. At first it was just ceilings, but after getting used to how fast are ceilings we're going, it seemed like our walls we're taking forever. Having to bust out butt joints with our trowels.
If we can, we use them everywhere.


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## RocknRoller

We pay $3.25 each for 48" 
I gave my dealer a commitment and they buy a skid and stock the jobs along with board, mud, bead and screws. We keep a dozen extra in the van for mis counts and are doing the railroad more and more. Most of my competition is clueless gives us an edge over them.


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## Gary

RocknRoller said:


> We pay $3.25 each for 48"
> I gave my dealer a commitment and they buy a skid and stock the jobs along with board, mud, bead and screws. We keep a dozen extra in the van for mis counts and are doing the railroad more and more. Most of my competition is clueless gives us an edge over them.


Railroad? Do you mean you're railroading your buttjoints?

Also do you guys cut the drywall if it doesn't fall exactly between two joists or studs, when using buttboard?


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## PrecisionTaping

Gary said:


> Railroad? Do you mean you're railroading your buttjoints?
> 
> Also do you guys cut the drywall if it doesn't fall exactly between two joists or studs, when using buttboard?


We rarely cut our sheets. I'll measure a wall left to right, see where 12' lands, if it lands on a stud, or so close to one that I can't use a buttboard, I measure right to left, make sure it falls in the cavity, good to go. No cutting required. Full sheet. No waste. Stronger joint. Win win.

If I need to cut a sheet because it wont work either side, I don't even need to take an accurate measurement, I just throw my tape along the floor and see where the middle of the cavity is. Take 3" off, or 5" or 6", whatever. Go rip it, good to go. Hardly ever need a t-square.


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## Gary

PrecisionTaping said:


> We rarely cut our sheets. I'll measure a wall left to right, see where 12' lands, if it lands on a stud, or so close to one that I can't use a buttboard, I measure right to left, make sure it falls in the cavity, good to go. No cutting required. Full sheet. No waste. Stronger joint. Win win.
> 
> If I need to cut a sheet because it wont work either side, I don't even need to take an accurate measurement, I just throw my tape along the floor and see where the middle of the cavity is. Take 3" off, or 5" or 6", whatever. Go rip it, good to go. Hardly ever need a t-square.


A few more questions. I've always used a 6' level and checked the stud or joist I was going to break on, to make sure they weren't popping out or hanging low, before breaking on them. Is it still a good idea to do this when using Buttboard? In other words if the two joists or studs on either side of the cavity are bad, will Buttboard still work? The other question, is everyone still staggering their butt joints, or could one railroad them, and then finish them like the long beveled edge of the sheet?


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## chris

smisner50s said:


> View attachment 6283
> 
> 
> There are a few buttboards in here


 post 102 on this thread


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## PrecisionTaping

Gary said:


> A few more questions. I've always used a 6' level and checked the stud or joist I was going to break on, to make sure they weren't popping out or hanging low, before breaking on them. Is it still a good idea to do this when using Buttboard? In other words if the two joists or studs on either side of the cavity are bad, will Buttboard still work? The other question, is everyone still staggering their butt joints, or could one railroad them, and then finish them like the long beveled edge of the sheet?


It's different because we use resilient channel on pretty well all our ceilings here. So we don't have to check with a level wear to break the joint. 
From what I've read from a few other guys on here however, it's not a bad idea to quickly bust out the level to make sure you're not breaking too high or too low.
This one time we didn't notice in a wall that there was two really badly crowned studs and we just so happened to break our butt joint (with buttboard) in between them. Hahaha! I pretty well had to pull the wall back out using a 2 x 4 as a straight edge and a crap ton of mud! That was a b!tch

As far as staggering joints, we don't bother.
Check this video I made as an example.
http://youtu.be/uj58z3jDlfw

Like Chris mentioned about Post #102, Steve was the one who first brought this up and I've been doing it ever since that post. I love it!
Props Smisners50s! :thumbsup:


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## D A Drywall

Hey Brian thanks for the video. I've been using the Buttboards sparingly because for me they cost as much as a sheet of drywall and there had to be good reason to add that cost. However seeing what your doing makes me believe I may be able to recover that extra expense in both time and board savings.


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## PrecisionTaping

D A Drywall said:


> Hey Brian thanks for the video. I've been using the Buttboards sparingly because for me they cost as much as a sheet of drywall and there had to be good reason to add that cost. However seeing what your doing makes me believe I may be able to recover that extra expense in both time and board savings.


One piece of buttboard is almost the same price as a sheet of drywall?! Thats not right!
PM me some info on your dealer, i'll look into it.


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## Trim-Tex

Gary said:


> How would I order this? No dealers in my area (Denver) and no purchase link on the site.



What is your zip code? 
Go to www.trim-tex.com
Go to, where to buy,
Dealer locator, put in your zip code 
Pick the size of search and all your dealers will appear. 

I recommend avoiding big box stores (we don't sell to them, all they want is cheap, cheap crap) build a relationship with your local GSD (gypsum supply dealer) and then work them for sharp competitive pricing on the full package. Board, stud, mud, screws, glue and bead ect. ect.


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## Trim-Tex

Railroad butt...anyone can do it!










Helping out a friend last week re-doing a bad ceiling. Furring strips, Hang board, Layering and bead install


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## imaginethat

Do you still need to prefill the butt joint when using the boards? Do the butt boards need to overlap to the sheet next to it?


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## jcampbell

imaginethat said:


> Do you still need to prefill the butt joint when using the boards? Do the butt boards need to overlap to the sheet next to it?


http://youtu.be/3z7r2U47CoI


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## jcampbell

http://youtu.be/MGjaGfeS4ss


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## saskataper

Trim-Tex said:


> Railroad butt...anyone can do it! Helping out a friend last week re-doing a bad ceiling. Furring strips, Hang board, Layering and bead install


Awesome Joe! How do you find the time.


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## Trim-Tex

imaginethat said:


> Do you still need to prefill the butt joint when using the boards? Do the butt boards need to overlap to the sheet next to it?



Prefill over ButtBoard: not required, but if you want to, feel free (Mud Max..white glue on first coat always helps)

ButtBoards need to overlap: not required, but many contractors still stagger their butt's and slip in our 54" board for a 3" overlap per side. 
As you see in the pictures I use the SMISNER railroad method and start with a 24" board and then go to 48" for a 24" overlap. 

Joe


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## imaginethat

Joe

Are you still doing free samples? I want to try them and the mudset magic corner. I have a tray ceiling to do next week and I think the magic corner would work great.


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## Trim-Tex

48" Buttboard or 54" ?
MS Magic Corner no Problem

send an e mail to: [email protected] 
please include UPS ship able address, full name, cell #


Joe


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## gazman

Now that is service:thumbsup:


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## moore

gazman said:


> Now that is service:thumbsup:


Trim Tex needs to start making sheet rock! 

With the pride they show in their products . I bet they could take over the wallboard industry !!:yes:


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## jcampbell

Hey joe....I am renovating my house and want to remove the wood casings and wrap them with the large L bead . I plan on leaving the wood jamb that is flush with the drywall. However I would need a mud leg at least 1 1/2 wide or better to carry the gap between the jamb and the drywall so I can staple into the jamb and the drywall at the same time . . Is there such a thing . Return leg would need to be between 2 and 3" . I will have to measure it for sure.


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## Trim-Tex

Hello, 

We make L Beads, over sized L Beads, Super & Giant L beads that range from 0" return all the way to 6" and very size in between. 

http://www.trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=showproduct&id=148

And, you can always score the vinyl 2 to 3 times, back bend and peel away to make any return leg smaller. Or use our Finish Trim to make any return leg longer.

:yes:
Joe


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## thefinisher

moore said:


> Trim Tex needs to start making sheet rock!
> 
> With the pride they show in their products . I bet they could take over the wallboard industry !!:yes:


I agree!!


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## BNW TAPING

09-14-2011, 12:36 PM
05-05-2014, 01:19 PM

this is a good forum, 
can't be leave how long its going for!


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## FAB

Just used some buttboard on a 60' long wall and i think i will avoid butt joints from now on. Came out so smooth ,finished all as recessed joints. Love it!

The butts were actually easier then the actual recesses to finish since it was some super high shoulder continental board on some . Rest was NG board though with nice shoulders.


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## Corey The Taper

Over here they mostly use 12 even if the walls are like 14 so I think it would take like 30 peices if not more so about 200$ worth of buttboard. Does the cost even out after you consider less mud and less call backs for butt joints


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## FAB

Corey The Taper said:


> Over here they mostly use 12 even if the walls are like 14 so I think it would take like 30 peices if not more so about 200$ worth of buttboard. Does the cost even out after you consider less mud and less call backs for butt joints


i think the added cost is worth it .Saves time too and a lot of it. 
Although i think the added expense of gluing my rock worth it as well.You can save a little by making your own out of a sheet of osb and trim-tex shim on a roll but then you lose the time savings .


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