# How much $$$$ to paint primer on ?



## 2buckcanuck

I was wondering, If you really had to lower your standards, and a home owner asked if you could prime/paint :whistling2:.......what formula do you use to come up with your price?

#1. Do you charge so much a fiver/bucket of paint..... (how many sq ft of area will a 5'er cover) ball park figure $$ a 5'er

#2.Do you go by the area of the floor (whats mathematical formula to calculate amount of paint needed) ball park figure

#3.Do you charge by the sq ft , or by the sheet as some do (fairly sure when everyone speaks by sheet you mean 4x12........so twenty one sheets of 4x12 equals 1008 sq ft) ball park figure 

lets just say......any house that is 4,000 sq ft (83 sheets) and over. Eight foot high ceilings.Everything to get painted,walls, ceilings, closets etc....There's nothing fancy in the house, just a straight forward house.

Painting method: keep it to nap roller, doing a back roll, no paint sprayer or power rollers involved,cut in with the brush on angles,You have your own tools and don't need to ask the H.O. to buy them for you:whistling2:, and use a GOOD primer. Just trying to keep everything to the k.i.s.s. method

I'm saying 4,000 sq ft (83 sheeps) b/c I'm sure that's where most guys start increasing their rates as they go down in sq ft/sheets, till you get to a point , where you charge by the hour. Or there's another question, whats your sq ft minimum, before you increase your rates. (as you go lower in square?)

Looking for which formula you guys use, not "I think it will take me this many hours ???" [email protected] A formula.....or maybe I'm missing another way to price the primer


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## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> I was wondering, If you really had to lower your standards, and a home owner asked if you could prime/paint :whistling2:.......what formula do you use to come up with your price?
> 
> #1. Do you charge so much a fiver/bucket of paint..... (how many sq ft of area will a 5'er cover) ball park figure $$ a 5'er
> 
> #2.Do you go by the area of the floor (whats mathematical formula to calculate amount of paint needed) ball park figure
> 
> #3.Do you charge by the sq ft , or by the sheet as some do (fairly sure when everyone speaks by sheet you mean 4x12........so twenty one sheets of 4x12 equals 1008 sq ft) ball park figure
> 
> lets just say......any house that is 4,000 sq ft (83 sheets) and over. Eight foot high ceilings.Everything to get painted,walls, ceilings, closets etc....There's nothing fancy in the house, just a straight forward house.
> 
> Painting method: keep it to nap roller, doing a back roll, no paint sprayer or power rollers involved,cut in with the brush on angles,You have your own tools and don't need to ask the H.O. to buy them for you:whistling2:, and use a GOOD primer. Just trying to keep everything to the k.i.s.s. method
> 
> I'm saying 4,000 sq ft (83 sheeps) b/c I'm sure that's where most guys start increasing their rates as they go down in sq ft/sheets, till you get to a point , where you charge by the hour. Or there's another question, whats your sq ft minimum, before you increase your rates. (as you go lower in square?)
> 
> Looking for which formula you guys use, not "I think it will take me this many hours ???" [email protected] A formula.....or maybe I'm missing another way to price the primer


Your question is really confusing,,, like REALLY confusing.

Since i've had a few, I'll take a stab at it anyway. If I have done the drywall and they want it primed BEFORE trim is installed, I will prime it for .35 /ft (floor space) and provide the primer. I spray it on and backroll it.


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## cdwoodcox

2buckcanuck said:


> I was wondering, If you really had to lower your standards, and a home owner asked if you could prime/paint :whistling2:.......what formula do you use to come up with your price?
> 
> #1. Do you charge so much a fiver/bucket of paint..... (how many sq ft of area will a 5'er cover) ball park figure $$ a 5'er
> 
> #2.Do you go by the area of the floor (whats mathematical formula to calculate amount of paint needed) ball park figure
> 
> #3.Do you charge by the sq ft , or by the sheet as some do (fairly sure when everyone speaks by sheet you mean 4x12........so twenty one sheets of 4x12 equals 1008 sq ft) ball park figure
> 
> lets just say......any house that is 4,000 sq ft (83 sheets) and over. Eight foot high ceilings.Everything to get painted,walls, ceilings, closets etc....There's nothing fancy in the house, just a straight forward house.
> 
> Painting method: keep it to nap roller, doing a back roll, no paint sprayer or power rollers involved,cut in with the brush on angles,You have your own tools and don't need to ask the H.O. to buy them for you:whistling2:, and use a GOOD primer. Just trying to keep everything to the k.i.s.s. method
> 
> I'm saying 4,000 sq ft (83 sheeps) b/c I'm sure that's where most guys start increasing their rates as they go down in sq ft/sheets, till you get to a point , where you charge by the hour. Or there's another question, whats your sq ft minimum, before you increase your rates. (as you go lower in square?)
> 
> Looking for which formula you guys use, not "I think it will take me this many hours ???" [email protected] A formula.....or maybe I'm missing another way to price the primer


 I just recently started priming after drywall. I charge by the sq. ft. same as hanging or finishing. I actually would really like to get away from hanging and just finish and prime. I'm getting between .19 to .23 cents per sq. ft. depending on contractor. That includes a good primer usually Sherwin Williams promar 200 or sheetrock first coat. unless they want oil. Spray and backroll. :thumbsup:

Oh and don't forget to tell them they're buying new brushes when painting. Nice brushes not the cheap ones.:whistling2:


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## cazna

Well im useless and cant help you at all, I guess the time and do and hr rate with materials and hope for the best, All the sq m rates drive me mad and its all different, And takes time, But here is one that i do and other painters do, then back cost, If its straight forward enough the then X the floor area by $40 per sm, then see how that feels.


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## moore

oh yeah ,, 4,000' of area . duh ..:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Your question is really confusing,,, like REALLY confusing.
> 
> Since i've had a few, I'll take a stab at it anyway. If I have done the drywall and they want it primed BEFORE trim is installed, I will prime it for .35 /ft (floor space) and provide the primer. I spray it on and backroll it.


but you still answered right

Ok, a set rate, a formula, not a hour rate, ill admit I get confusing sometimes:whistling2:

#1 so much a 5'er ( a painter told me that one)
#2 so much by the floor area
#3 so much by the drywall

And whats a fair rate for any of the above, labour only, no supply


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> You have your own tools and don't need to ask the H.O. to buy them for you:whistling2:


 Aren't you tired of using the same roller cover for the past 5 years?


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## Mudstar

5 bucks 5 bucks 5 bucks


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Aren't you tired of using the same roller cover for the past 5 years?
> 
> 
> 
> Paid for by "homeowners" and generates more work. (perhaps the only difference is that I tell them what I'm spending their money on.
> 
> Oh wait, are you thinking it wouldn't be a good idea to tell them that you're spending their money on hookers and crank?):


Don't know weather your joking or not but.......
one, I don't use a paint roller cover
two, none of their damn business what Ive done with their money after I've earned it.
And three, a person spending their money on hookers and crack, is going to ask if they can get some money to buy some tools, and not return


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Don't know weather your joking or not but.......
> one, I don't use a paint roller cover
> two, none of their damn business what Ive done with their money after I've earned it.
> And three, a person spending their money on hookers and crack, is going to ask if they can get some money to buy some tools, and not return


1. How do you roll paint on and not use a roller cover? Here, we call the cage the roller and the cover is the part that holds the paint and puts it on the wall

2. That's your business. I get a lot of money up front for materials 

3. I do that all the time, but it seems like I'm not getting any more phone calls  :jester:

Our prime guys usually charge $0.07-$0.10/ft...sprayed (but that's drywall primer, prep coat or something similar at $35/ 5 gal. (which includes masking materials and labor to mask.) So let's use a 5000 sq. ft. job as an example, at $0.10, and assuming 1 gallon covers 300 ft.

5000/300=16 gallons = 4 5 gal. buckets = $140
roll of plastic = $30.00
2 rolls tape = $12.00
Labor to mask = 1 hr
Labor to prime (no backroll) 3 hrs

$140 + $30 + $12 = $182
Total labor = 4 hrs.
Price for job = $500
Total money made after materials = $318
Hourly rate = $79.50

So even if you had a helper to backroll, and you rented an airless at $65/ day you'd still be making $31 (and change...and IF your helper made equal wage) per hour. Although, then you've introduced clean-up time on the machine, and rental/return.

Then again, I'm probably full of sh!t and all the real professionals will laugh at me. But, at least it's a starting point.


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## Bevelation

Nobody wants to pay a taper to prime. Seriously. If you get 200 bucks extra to prime it out, be happy.


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## cdwoodcox

Bevelation said:


> Nobody wants to pay a taper to prime. Seriously. If you get 200 bucks extra to prime it out, be happy.


Actually alot of people want to pay me to prime. Actually that is how most of the big commercial/industrial company's around here want it.

What is the deal with wanting to be happy working for free, is that normal where you're at? We have guys like that around here everyone knows they do sh!t work and get sh!t pay. I could never be happy being one of those guys.


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## Drywaller

A lot of my customers ask me to prime .Once your in the door and they see how much progress Ive done and how good it looks they want me to keep going.So years ago i bought a graco 390 and it pays for itself really quickly.I make quicker money spraying and back rolling primer than taping.So now I usually ask if they want it primed.


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## silverstilts

There is good money in priming, and yes most homeowners ask for this to be done if they are going to do their own finish painting. I have several GC that always want this included in their price as well. Pricing out a job no less than .22 per sq. ft of wallboard that is a given. If you are only charging .08-.10 and using some cheap primmer that only costs $35.00 per 5 Gal is nuts in my mind. Might as well smear some white wash on the walls and call it good. Promar 200 or even 400 is good primmer as well as sherwin williams contractors primmer which runs around $70 per five gallon works good. I wont go into details on what a person can make because I really don't want to tip off non drywall contractors and homeowners into nickel and dime us any more than they already do. That .22 per ft is sprayed and back-rolled, the brush sanding is not included.


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## Mudshark

I agree with Bevelation - In BC the drywallers do the drywalling and the painters do the painting.


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## betterdrywall

2buck all those methods of charging goes basically by the job.. If there is alot of sq ftage ,then you can charge by the sq ft of sheetrock, and lower your price some for competivie reasons and get some extra work ontop of the finishing. Charge by the bucket if it is a midsize easy job. floor footage, only on remodles and repaints. This makes it more appealing to the customers. Instead of saying "well mame I gotta charge you out the sheeps azz for this job due to all the masking off I'll have to do".


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## Workaholic

Just for primer before trim I would think about 30 cents but really paint is my thing and drywall is another guys thing, I would be a little sceptical to take on a job where the priming is done. I spray my trim so a primer around the trim would be useless after the overspray.


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## cazna

Workaholic said:


> Just for primer before trim I would think about 30 cents but really paint is my thing and drywall is another guys thing, I would be a little sceptical to take on a job where the priming is done. I spray my trim so a primer around the trim would be useless after the overspray.


Are you using HVLP or airless on the trim worky?? I use a HVLP Wagner F8000 for finish coats with a 3 proset, and prime with airless 212 tip.


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## cdwoodcox

Workaholic said:


> Just for primer before trim I would think about 30 cents but really paint is my thing and drywall is another guys thing, I would be a little sceptical to take on a job where the priming is done. I spray my trim so a primer around the trim would be useless after the overspray.


 I know where you're coming from. Their was a paint company around here a few years back advertising texture I was like what the hell are they trying to take my work for. But the painters around here kill me when they prime I think they cut primer 50% and then still try and get double the sq. ft. per gallon. So in my opinion they want to give me the work or they would atleast put forth effort. :yes:


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## Arey85

Good post 2buck. I prime 90% of my work and also agree that for the amount of time it takes...it's more profitable than taping. I spray sherwin Williams master hide flat through a graco. I do 2 coats on the ceiling finished and one on the walls and sand the walls lightly with 220 after. I charge .30 ft on an average house. Usually by the time my helper is done wrapping the windows and loading up the truck I'm just about done spraying. Fast money eapecially when your not making a special trip to do it.....you had to go there anyway to sand and touch up.


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## SlimPickins

silverstilts said:


> There is good money in priming, and yes most homeowners ask for this to be done if they are going to do their own finish painting. I have several GC that always want this included in their price as well. Pricing out a job no less than .22 per sq. ft of wallboard that is a given. If you are only charging .08-.10 and using some cheap primmer that only costs $35.00 per 5 Gal is nuts in my mind. Might as well smear some white wash on the walls and call it good. Promar 200 or even 400 is good primmer as well as sherwin williams contractors primmer which runs around $70 per five gallon works good. I wont go into details on what a person can make because I really don't want to tip off non drywall contractors and homeowners into nickel and dime us any more than they already do. That .22 per ft is sprayed and back-rolled, the brush sanding is not included.


I realize now that I wasn't as clear as I could have been....the 7-10 cents price is for pre-prime, and the product is also a pre-prime product. I'll be completely honest and say that I don't know a whole heck of a lot about "regular" painting prices. My circumstances are usually something like "Hi Mike, do you have time to come over and paint our basement/addition?" To which I usually answer "Sure"


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## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> I agree with Bevelation - In BC the drywallers do the drywalling and the painters do the painting.


Ill address this to you a bevelation.
It's the same he in Ontarable, each trade sticks to his own trade, we don't go stepping on the painters toes. And as worky addressed, the painters will complain (shocking) So most builders/GC just leave all the painting to the painter.

But what do you guys do when you deal with a home owner??
if you read one of D's post, he was addressing how the home owner screwed up the tape job. which I have seen done many times before too. Doing the prime, also sets the home owner at ease when they can see with their own eyes your job was good. Maybe make more coin offering to rough sand it too. H.O hate sanding, that's why they hired you to tape:thumbup:

The prime coat can make or break your tape job, it's the most important coat of paint. That's where it pains me to say this but......a painter can make or break us, that's why there's pro's ........so worky says:whistling2:

And think of the easy money, would you rather push a pole with a rough piece of sand paper on it all the time???? or a pole with a big brushy wheel that ROLLS on it:yes:

It's good to get an idea on how others are pricing here on DWT . I feel like I'm raping a customer when it comes to priming b/c it's so easy, but to some it's hard work, and their willing to pay you to do it:yes:


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## Bevelation

Sad to say there are too many tapers offering to prime "for free", or so what some builders tell me. I don't care.

Actually I would be more inclined to prime for an extra if it's for a homeowner. I just haven't come across one that hasn't already become an _expert_ at painting.


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## 2buckcanuck

Bevelation said:


> Sad to say there are too many tapers offering to prime "for free", or so what some builders tell me. I don't care.
> 
> Actually I would be more inclined to prime for an extra if it's for a homeowner. I just haven't come across one that hasn't already become an _expert_ at painting.


Wow, 1st workaholic said there's a thing called a professional painter, and now your saying there's experts too:jester:

I hope those builders are smart enough to see through the scam of prime for free, nothings for free, those are the tapers that suck, and they disappear over time!!!


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## Bevelation

^^ Not experts.... _experts_ --- as in "experts"....as in...


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## Workaholic

cazna said:


> Are you using HVLP or airless on the trim worky?? I use a HVLP Wagner F8000 for finish coats with a 3 proset, and prime with airless 212 tip.


I use a airless with 310 tip or a 210 if it is smaller trim.


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## DSJOHN

Ive sprayed 75% of my jobs for the past 30 years[backroll always] easiest money out there. I get 1250sqft out of a 5gl or 22 -12' sheets if you count sheets on a job break it up that way,you wont go wrong. Ive charged .25 c a sqft of rock [includes labor and mat] so 10,000 sqft = $2500 , easy money for 1 day labor?


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## Capt-sheetrock

Workaholic said:


> Just for primer before trim I would think about 30 cents but really paint is my thing and drywall is another guys thing, I would be a little sceptical to take on a job where the priming is done. I spray my trim so a primer around the trim would be useless after the overspray.


Thats why I like to prime before trim. But if the trim is on,, its easy enough to keep the sprayer off the trim and let the back-roller get it close. I spray my trim too, on new construction. Then again if the trim is un-primed wood, I spray it with primer, then sand it before I spray it with trim paint. Like 2bucks question, there are so many variables, its hard to say sometimes.

Just as your replies are laden with sarcasim, mine are flooded with alcohol. :thumbup:


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## Workaholic

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Thats why I like to prime before trim. But if the trim is on,, its easy enough to keep the sprayer off the trim and let the back-roller get it close. I spray my trim too, on new construction. Then again if the trim is un-primed wood, I spray it with primer, then sand it before I spray it with trim paint. Like 2bucks question, there are so many variables, its hard to say sometimes.
> 
> Just as your replies are laden with sarcasim, mine are flooded with alcohol. :thumbup:


The NC I do I get into after the trim is done, I do the lids, prime all the trim factory primed or not, finish trim then do the walls. 

sometimes my replies are mixed with sarcasm and alcohol.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Workaholic said:


> The NC I do I get into after the trim is done, I do the lids, prime all the trim factory primed or not, finish trim then do the walls.
> 
> sometimes my replies are mixed with sarcasm and alcohol.


 We are seeing alot of pre-hung doors now that have 1/2 primed and 1/2 unprimed. (I guess I'm not the only one drinking at work these days). Most my painter friends primed their unprimed trim with cover-stain, but since it ain't treated lumber, I just prime it with flat (primer) and then spray the trim.

I also do the ceilings, then trim and walls last. (disclaimer,,, I prime everything first)


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## Workaholic

Capt-sheetrock said:


> We are seeing alot of pre-hung doors now that have 1/2 primed and 1/2 unprimed. (I guess I'm not the only one drinking at work these days). Most my painter friends primed their unprimed trim with cover-stain, but since it ain't treated lumber, I just prime it with flat (primer) and then spray the trim.
> 
> I also do the ceilings, then trim and walls last. (disclaimer,,, I prime everything first)


I have been seeing those 50-50 for a few years.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Workaholic said:


> I have been seeing those 50-50 for a few years.


 those pre-primed doors with un-primed case moulding is kinda like "government intelligence" = a contridiction in terms:thumbsup:


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## jmr

i bid by wall square footage just like drywall.. i think .60 covered prime paint and labor.. last time i bid out paint was a couple years ago though, dont know where its at now..


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## Cratter

Mudshark said:


> I agree with Bevelation - In BC the drywallers do the drywalling and the painters do the painting.


Can a drywaller be a painter? Its crazy to me if a guys good at drywalling he isn't a damn good painter. 

I tape and paint 70% of the new houses I do for the contractors (10 years now): One stop shop. :thumbup:


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## Bevelation

^There's truth behind what you say, however I have enough tools to lug around just from taping.


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## smisner50s

Cratter said:


> Can a drywaller be a painter? Its crazy to me if a guys good at drywalling he isn't a damn good painter.
> 
> I tape and paint 70% of the new houses I do for the contractors (10 years now): One stop shop. :thumbup:


 Me to


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## chris

just got done paintin about 8 tonite,little offices remodel
35.00 bucks an hour is what Im charging:yes:


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## igorson

2buckcanuck said:


> I was wondering, If you really had to lower your standards, and a home owner asked if you could prime/paint :whistling2:.......what formula do you use to come up with your price?
> 
> #1. Do you charge so much a fiver/bucket of paint..... (how many sq ft of area will a 5'er cover) ball park figure $$ a 5'er
> 
> #2.Do you go by the area of the floor (whats mathematical formula to calculate amount of paint needed) ball park figure
> 
> #3.Do you charge by the sq ft , or by the sheet as some do (fairly sure when everyone speaks by sheet you mean 4x12........so twenty one sheets of 4x12 equals 1008 sq ft) ball park figure
> 
> lets just say......any house that is 4,000 sq ft (83 sheets) and over. Eight foot high ceilings.Everything to get painted,walls, ceilings, closets etc....There's nothing fancy in the house, just a straight forward house.
> 
> Painting method: keep it to nap roller, doing a back roll, no paint sprayer or power rollers involved,cut in with the brush on angles,You have your own tools and don't need to ask the H.O. to buy them for you:whistling2:, and use a GOOD primer. Just trying to keep everything to the k.i.s.s. method
> 
> I'm saying 4,000 sq ft (83 sheeps) b/c I'm sure that's where most guys start increasing their rates as they go down in sq ft/sheets, till you get to a point , where you charge by the hour. Or there's another question, whats your sq ft minimum, before you increase your rates. (as you go lower in square?)
> 
> Looking for which formula you guys use, not "I think it will take me this many hours ???" [email protected] A formula.....or maybe I'm missing another way to price the primer


Everything depends on how much you want to get per hour/job. I usually charge 35/hr + materials so I actually have cheep price in MN for painting since i do it quick.
I quote to finish wall painting with materials is $1.3/floor foot. So 1000 sqr/foot house is about $1300 

http://1drywall.com/painting.html


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## Workaholic

igorson said:


> I quote to finish wall painting with materials is $1.3/floor foot. So 1000 sqr/foot house is about $1300


That is ceiling walls trim and come back or just walls? Not trying to diss you but raise your rate if it is for a complete paint job, I was getting 1.50 for those cracker jack ranchers nine years ago. 
Here they are into trim.


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## igorson

Workaholic said:


> That is ceiling walls trim and come back or just walls? Not trying to diss you but raise your rate if it is for a complete paint job, I was getting 1.50 for those cracker jack ranchers nine years ago.
> Here they are into trim.


This is for *wall repainting* with my _*paint, materials*_. But the price is for decent amount of work.
http://1drywall.com/painting.html


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## Mikea197931

Usg tuff hide is great stuff, that's probably what the Taper is offering. Promar primer is terrible especially how much the painters like to water it down. I can circle a touch up, painters will prime and 1 coat with promar and i can still see the pencil mark. That is awful and it's always the drywall finishers fault


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## DeeB

SlimPickins said:


> 1. How do you roll paint on and not use a roller cover? Here, we call the cage the roller and the cover is the part that holds the paint and puts it on the wall
> 
> 2. That's your business. I get a lot of money up front for materials
> 
> 3. I do that all the time, but it seems like I'm not getting any more phone calls  :jester:
> 
> Our prime guys usually charge $0.07-$0.10/ft...sprayed (but that's drywall primer, prep coat or something similar at $35/ 5 gal. (which includes masking materials and labor to mask.) So let's use a 5000 sq. ft. job as an example, at $0.10, and assuming 1 gallon covers 300 ft.
> 
> 5000/300=16 gallons = 4 5 gal. buckets = $140
> roll of plastic = $30.00
> 2 rolls tape = $12.00
> Labor to mask = 1 hr
> Labor to prime (no backroll) 3 hrs
> 
> $140 + $30 + $12 = $182
> Total labor = 4 hrs.
> Price for job = $500
> Total money made after materials = $318
> Hourly rate = $79.50
> 
> So even if you had a helper to backroll, and you rented an airless at $65/ day you'd still be making $31 (and change...and IF your helper made equal wage) per hour. Although, then you've introduced clean-up time on the machine, and rental/return.
> 
> Then again, I'm probably full of sh!t and all the real professionals will laugh at me. But, at least it's a starting point.


Only takes 1 hr to tape off a 5000 sq residence ? .. 4 hrs to spray a 5000 sq ft residence? are they on Meth?
$120 for 20 gal of primer? Where are they stealing it from? or are they watering down a single gal to make 20?? 
And they are happy to earn $318 for the entire job? This is a pipe dream.NONE of these numbers are realistic.. NOT EVEN CLOSE!!


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## Shelwyn

DeeB said:


> Only takes 1 hr to tape off a 5000 sq residence ? .. 4 hrs to spray a 5000 sq ft residence? are they on Meth?
> $120 for 20 gal of primer? Where are they stealing it from? or are they watering down a single gal to make 20??
> And they are happy to earn $318 for the entire job? This is a pipe dream.NONE of these numbers are realistic.. NOT EVEN CLOSE!!


Ask for half down and run HAHAHA 🏃‍♂️

Also some of the commercial guys can spray massive amounts of primer but they're bidding on entire 20 story condominium complex and they might not need to tape anything off other than the entrance. 

One painting company bought 3 condos worth of pre made light covers and electric box covers, heavy mats for floors, and only taped the entrance door, everything else wasn't installed yet. He saved labor costs by buying up front electric box covers and light fixture (in wall circle lights) lids and paid like no labor costs for masking the place.

On a site we worked on the ac vents had a foam thing inserted in so nothing could get in, the sprinklers were covered in plastic cones, the panels had a cardboard cover that was reused over and over, the windows and sliding glass doors were sprayed with a thin plastic peel off protector thing so they wouldn't get scratches or dirty, the Elevator shafts only had safety rails and were open (fall splat, dead) and the design layout was generally the same so they bought 2 or 3 appartments worth of floor covers and reused them for all 20 floors 6 condos each floor.

So those easy jobs might be done for cheaper. No idea about commercial costs for primer on that scale.

Sometimes the guy lies about how much he costs so his prices don't get out aka its between the builder / general contractor and him. Also who knows what kind of kick backs or what other shady stuff is going on hahaha.


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