# Metal Clips



## Willie 2 (Mar 20, 2011)

Hi to all, just visiting from the contractors forum. For the tapers; looking for the pros and cons in using perimeter clips on the lid drywall where it meets an interior truss/wall joint where there_ may_ be truss uplift and possible opening of the joint. Also for you hangers, how do you like hanging on to 1x2 strapping vs the bottom truss cord. Thanks


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## dryrocker27 (Dec 30, 2007)

Makes no difference to me about the strapping because we use all screws. Drywall clips are what we use when a builder uses trusses and does the "Green" framing style with no wood in the corners. We charge $200 per houe for the trouble of using the clips.


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

Don't know if I'd be messing with clips. I'd simply affix PGI angle to the studwall and keep the furring 600mm away (or as board manufacturer's span dictates). No fasteners within 600mm of walls perp to battens.

Ime, steel solves screw pops. Fixing into the truss is asking for trouble.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Jason said:


> Don't know if I'd be messing with clips. I'd simply affix PGI angle to the studwall and keep the furring 600mm away (or as board manufacturer's span dictates). No fasteners within 600mm of walls perp to battens.
> 
> Ime, steel solves screw pops. Fixing into the truss is asking for trouble.


But....the clips attach to the wall.
They work , but their kind of time consuming, Plus you half to hope the wall sheet covers the clip, if it don't......then what???????


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> But....the clips attach to the wall.
> They work , but their kind of time consuming, Plus you half to hope the wall sheet covers the clip, if it don't......then what???????


 
I think we're being separated by a common language here, canuck. 


I mean I'd use metal angle such as http://www.fdsons.com/images/national/zinc_plated_angle_steel_n179.jpg

instead of clips, affixed to the studwall in plane with the ceiling strapping (aka battens, furring channel, etc). I'd screw the ceiling sheet to it around the perimeter of the room but the next screws (in the strapping) I'd keep 2 feet away from the wall, so you've got that 2 foot section of ceiling to accomodate roofing movement.

Wafer head screws would be ok to fix the angle to the wall but I'd use glue only at the top of the wall when hanging so the board floats nice 'n straight over the wafers.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

We used these for years had a big builder.in pa who only wanted to put 1 nailer per corner so we used clips worked ok when u got used to it for 50 houses a year id clip my ARM to the wall :jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Jason said:


> I think we're being separated by a common language here, canuck.
> 
> 
> I mean I'd use metal angle such as http://www.fdsons.com/images/national/zinc_plated_angle_steel_n179.jpg
> ...


Same language, just you guys have a funny accent:jester:

What you show in your link is what we call "L" track or 1x2 angle (slang terms of coarse) We use to do that back in the day when I use to rock (now I'm 99% tape). but when you think about it. Just don't fire screws or nails in the perimeters of the ceiling sheets, and if you half to, back them out when the wall sheets go up. What your doing is letting the walls carry the load of the ceilings, and you still keep the screws back 16" from the walls, Or you could say the ceilings are floating on the walls. So no more need for "L" track which saves on time and material.

Or , another example in case my Canadian accent has you all confused.

I'm rocking a house right now, where some other clowns put up some of the ceilings. The trusses were very wavy, some spots rising up 3/4's of a inch or more.The H.O. asked can that be fixed when you tape. Well....... after I got my ceiling sheets up, I went around and backed out all the screws on the perimeters of the ceiling sheets. after a few days, gravity came into play,the sheets came down, and the ceilings looked level.

But the H.O. said "but there's no screws on the ends of the sheets ?"
I explained ,one, gravity holds them in place. two, my 16' spacing from the walls with the screws is with in code. and three, What home owner is going to go around and push up on the ceilings to see if they move.
he agreed, then said it looked good.

So no one uses clips or "L" track for truss lift around here anymore:thumbup:


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

Honestly, no one uses either one around here either. 

Pretty much every house in West Aus has cracked crown. Think anyone does this sort of thing, or anything at all, to try to solve it? Nnnnope! :blink:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Jason said:


> Honestly, no one uses either one around here either.
> 
> Pretty much every house in West Aus has cracked crown. Think anyone does this sort of thing, or anything at all, to try to solve it? Nnnnope! :blink:


well......do what my last post said, and no more crack houses !!!!

Then you can be the drywall king of boganville, because your crowns have no cracks


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> well......do what my last post said, and no more crack houses !!!!
> 
> Then you can be the drywall king of boganville, because your crowns have no cracks


 
I'm doing transportables now and cracking isn't a problem unless the truckies really abuse it. Almost all site built houses are double brick tho, meaning no studwall & no rock except overhead, so it's really up to the builder and roof framer to make it happen. Perfectly rigid masonry walls + a truss roof = crack city.

On the upside, it's so pervasive that callbacks just don't happen for it. Everyone just accepts it as an inevitability. Far out, eh!


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