# bazooka



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

I know this has probably been covered before in a previous post but here goes . When I am tapeing with the bazooka I sometimes get areas on the tape with no mud on the tape . not large areas but usually small areas about two to thee inches long , mainly on ceiling joins more so than wall joins .Cheers.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Have you read this thread suncoast, It turned out the screw that held the cable on to the main shaft was slipping, I Think??

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/bad-bazooka-1215/

And my own bazooka stopped flowing as well, The thread that held the shaft onto the key was stripped so it just spun around, I drilled through both the key and the shaft and inserted a small brad nail and locktighted the hell out of it, Trimmed and filed the ends, then drilled down through the top of the key back into the shaft to clear the pin so it would fit back together, Runs awsome again now :thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Have you read this thread suncoast, It turned out the screw that held the cable on to the main shaft was slipping, I Think??
> 
> http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/bad-bazooka-1215/
> 
> And my own bazooka stopped flowing as well, The thread that held the shaft onto the key was stripped so it just spun around, I drilled through both the key and the shaft and inserted a small brad nail and locktighted the hell out of it, Trimmed and filed the ends, then drilled down through the top of the key back into the shaft to clear the pin so it would fit back together, Runs awsome again now :thumbsup:


Yup :thumbsup: I was just about to say the same, it would make sense being worse on the ceilings because of the extra weight of mud on the plunger at that angle, which would cause it to slip more.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

A couple other possibles come to mind:

- you're leaving the wall a little bit at times with the head of the taper, while still stringing out tape
- pump screen is too plugged, causing bubbles to get into taper's tube while pumping


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

JustMe said:


> A couple other possibles come to mind:
> 
> - you're leaving the wall a little bit at times with the head of the taper, while still stringing out tape
> - pump screen is too plugged, causing bubbles to get into taper's tube while pumping


 Just to add to that,,

If its not a mech prob, you are probling advancing the tape a bit before getting it back on the wall. For instance, till you get the "move" down right, 80% of your butts will have a blister 3" from the bottom. In other words, we tend to advance the tape FOR the butt,, we should put the zooka on the wall and then advance, do that, then pull it off again and set it at the bottom and then go, till ya get the hang of it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Another one
The pin that sits to the right of your valve when you fill the tube .when your tube is empty ,it pops up ,when you fill it goes down .Sometimes I find it will not go all the way down sometimes (at least on mine) ,and you half to engage it buy pushing down on it with you thumb/finger .sometimes it will only go half way down . So when your running walls it seems like it's working ok ,till you run a ceiling joint ,it starts spitting out dry spots .every time my zookie does that ,I check the pin ,and sure enough it is not inserted all the way .
plus if you pump more than 10 times to fill the tube with the pump,you may need new seals in the pump .try bouncing/taping the tube on the floor while up right after you fill it ,if you notice a lot of air is coming up ,you have a pump issue .


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Sun, are you having problems on ceilings, walls, or both? Is it happening at the beginning of the seam or sporadically throughout? I agree with the Kiwi and Cap. That pin that Kiwi is referring to has bit me plenty of times, now I just check it out of habit every time I fill it.

I find the bazooka is one of the tools, that when it is running well, there is no substitute. But, when it is pitching a fit you want to smash it! Also, it isn't a difficult tool to use, but it takes time and practice to master.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Sun, are you having problems on ceilings, walls, or both? Is it happening at the beginning of the seam or sporadically throughout? I agree with the Kiwi and Cap. That pin that Kiwi is referring to has bit me plenty of times, now I just check it out of habit every time I fill it.
> 
> I find the bazooka is one of the tools, that when it is running well, there is no substitute. But, when it is pitching a fit you want to smash it! Also, it isn't a difficult tool to use, but it takes time and practice to master.


but the kiwi's didn't mention the pin,it was me :yes: 2 buck a canuck
big difference between a canuck and a kiwi,they like sheep,we like beaver .
I read through the threads that cazns linked .And that was the very 1st post I put on DWT.I gave the same answer back then as I am now .It's that damn pin


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Sun, are you having problems on ceilings, walls, or both? Is it happening at the beginning of the seam or sporadically throughout? I agree with the Kiwi and Cap. That pin that Kiwi is referring to has bit me plenty of times, now I just check it out of habit every time I fill it.
> 
> I find the bazooka is one of the tools, that when it is running well, there is no substitute. But, when it is pitching a fit you want to smash it! Also, it isn't a difficult tool to use, but it takes time and practice to master.


 Well said--when shes running perfect its like a good lay--when not its like a hangover


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Another one
> The pin that sits to the right of your valve when you fill the tube .when your tube is empty ,it pops up ,when you fill it goes down .Sometimes I find it will not go all the way down sometimes (at least on mine) ,and you half to engage it buy pushing down on it with you thumb/finger .sometimes it will only go half way down . So when your running walls it seems like it's working ok ,till you run a ceiling joint ,it starts spitting out dry spots .every time my zookie does that ,I check the pin ,and sure enough it is not inserted all the way .
> plus if you pump more than 10 times to fill the tube with the pump,you may need new seals in the pump .try bouncing/taping the tube on the floor while up right after you fill it ,if you notice a lot of air is coming up ,you have a pump issue .


 That PIN is just like a pin on a rifle,, it will get gummed up ,, too much build up of WD or ames oil, along with JC,,,,, use a pipe cleaner, and scrub pad,, just removing the plate and blowing it off clean with water is not enough.


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

*Bazooka*

Well I followed some of your tips today but still no joy. Had large areas of tape with no mud. 

I believe as Caz said it is the mechanism slipping or disengaging when underload. I have no idea how to fix this any assistance would be much
appreciated

Thanks so much for all of your help guys


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Well I followed some of your tips today but still no joy. Had large areas of tape with no mud.
> 
> I believe as Caz said it is the mechanism slipping or disengaging when underload. I have no idea how to fix this any assistance would be much
> appreciated
> ...


What brand of zooka you got suncoast, Can you take the chain off the wheel then pull the wheel out with the long pin still on it then get the key and shaft (the pin goes through the centre of this) Check the shaft thread that screws into the key) Prob not this as it wouldnt work at all but its easy to check if its slipping, Hey kiwiman, how did you fix yours in the end, Wasnt it one screw loose on the shaft that holds the cable??? Suncoast, if you remove the 4 screws the hold the top plate on then you can look down inside and access this, Its only a cover plate, it wont fall apart on you and easy to put back on again. Didnt you have a tapetech???? I recommed you get the tool doctors book from all wall and look up taper repair dvd on ebay from bigkennylover, Thats john luman, Its a very good dvd on the taper, IF you have a tapetech type standard zooka that is. :thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Well I followed some of your tips today but still no joy. Had large areas of tape with no mud.
> 
> I believe as Caz said it is the mechanism slipping or disengaging when underload. I have no idea how to fix this any assistance would be much
> appreciated
> ...


If you're not already using it, one way to try to keep the problem to a minimum till you find a fix, is to try FibaFuse. Because you can see through it, it'll give you a 'read' as to what's going on on the backside of the tape, and you can better catch the problem spots. It'll also let you know if you've fixed things well enough.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Well I followed some of your tips today but still no joy. Had large areas of tape with no mud.
> 
> I believe as Caz said it is the mechanism slipping or disengaging when underload. I have no idea how to fix this any assistance would be much
> appreciated
> ...


 Check the spring drive sometimes they won't always engage all the way down on the sprocket drive assembly also are all the teeth there (the tabs that drive the cable spool) on the sprocket drive assembly I had a new northstar less than three months old where they just fell off so it wasn't driving and turning the cable up like it should. Over a hundred bucks to get a new one so much for Northstar not standing behind there products:furious:.


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

I tried to use it again today with no success . I put a new cable in it about a couple of days ago . After I did this the plunger seems tighter when I fill it or when useing it .When I tried it today the plunger wouldnt move when I tried to fill it ,so it was a disaster . I could not even use it at all . Not happy . The other problem is as before with the drive slipping . It is a drywallmaster


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

suncoast drywaller said:


> I tried to use it again today with no success . I put a new cable in it about a couple of days ago . After I did this the plunger seems tighter when I fill it or when useing it .When I tried it today the plunger wouldnt move when I tried to fill it ,so it was a disaster . I could not even use it at all . Not happy . The other problem is as before with the drive slipping . It is a drywallmaster


Is it the new king taper or an older model?? You need the tool doctors master manual from all wall, Order it, they are fast to deliever, Trust me.:thumbsup:


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## ColumbiaTechSupport (Aug 13, 2010)

It could be that the teeth on your top wheel are worn down allowing your top wheel to reverse. Try reversing your top wheel by hand if it rolls back that's your problem, that allows your plunger to drop from the weight of the mud when your not moving forward causing the the dry spots.


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

cazna said:


> Is it the new king taper or an older model?? You need the tool doctors master manual from all wall, Order it, they are fast to deliever, Trust me.:thumbsup:


Y es its the new king taper . The one you recomended . Have been happy with it though . Yes have got the master manual and Johns dvd . Had a play with it tonight and may have fixed problem . I tightened the allen key on the bit that the cable goes around and doesnt appear to slip any more , so heres hopeing , put some oil in bore and this seems to make plunger go smoother . Will give it a go next week .


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Y es its the new king taper . The one you recomended . Have been happy with it though . Yes have got the master manual and Johns dvd . Had a play with it tonight and may have fixed problem . I tightened the allen key on the bit that the cable goes around and doesnt appear to slip any more , so heres hopeing , put some oil in bore and this seems to make plunger go smoother . Will give it a go next week .


 
Bingo, Thats what happened to kiwimans as well :thumbsup:

Cant help the odd screw coming loose on the tools, there are so many of them its gonna happen sooner or later, You need to spray oil up it arse as well and store it upside down overnight etc, Take the cable storage cap off the end, this will help greatly,

Here http://www.drywalltalk.com/f2/bazooka-lubricant-222/

Scroll down to my pic of lanox, This is a great austrailian product you should be able to get some, This product is so much better than oil or wd-40 rubbish, that zooka will run great if you get this into it :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Bingo, Thats what happened to kiwimans as well :thumbsup:
> 
> Cant help the odd screw coming loose on the tools, there are so many of them its gonna happen sooner or later, You need to spray oil up it arse as well and store it upside down overnight etc, Take the cable storage cap off the end, this will help greatly,
> 
> ...


I just re-read that bazooka lubricant thread Cazna .
Of coarse you Kiwi's are going to like using that lanox oil, and of coarse you love the smell of it too.....it's a sheep by-product .
Here in Ontario,It's auto manufacturing all the way,so it's 10w 30 all the way .may not smell pretty like your sheep oil ,but hey......


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I just re-read that bazooka lubricant thread Cazna .
> Of coarse you Kiwi's are going to like using that lanox oil, and of coarse you love the smell of it too.....it's a sheep by-product .
> Here in Ontario,It's auto manufacturing all the way,so it's 10w 30 all the way .may not smell pretty like your sheep oil ,but hey......


 
I told you already in some other thread its from lanolin, From sheeps wool, Im not a mechanic so i dont want my tools to smell like oil, Lanox has very little smell, Its good stuff indeed :thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

suncoast drywaller said:


> I tried to use it again today with no success . I put a new cable in it about a couple of days ago . After I did this the plunger seems tighter when I fill it or when useing it .When I tried it today the plunger wouldnt move when I tried to fill it ,so it was a disaster . I could not even use it at all . Not happy . The other problem is as before with the drive slipping . It is a drywallmaster


 My first bazooka was a DM, still use it as my first choice. My plunger "swelled", it would stick tight in the tube. You might want to check that. The anwser was to take it out, put a bolt through it and stick the bolt in a battery drill, then hold it against 20 grit floor sanding paper till it got sanded down to where it would slide in the tube again. Fixed the problem real good and I didn't have to buy any parts to do it.

You mentioned the plunger felt tight,,, it should slide easy through the tube. The plunger cup is what seals it, the plunger itself should not be tight.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Find some sucker to sell your bazooka to for 500 bucks and buy a Super Taper.


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

Bevelation said:


> Find some sucker to sell your bazooka to for 500 bucks and buy a Super Taper.


Well what exactly is a super taper. My freinds on this site all agree the bazooka is the only way to go . They are all highly skilled tradesman with vast experiance who I trust for help and advice Please tell me why your super taper is better :whistling2:


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

2buckcanuck will tell you.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> 2buckcanuck will tell you.


The supertaper (lol) is a use less toy for the wanna be taper


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

Here we go!:2guns:


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> The supertaper (lol) is a use less toy for the wanna be taper


 Oh, I thought you were going to be mean and actually say it was useless.

Every bazooka taper and ex-bazooka taper I happened upon told me the super taper system was faster overall. Do we have a case of delusion vs. reality here?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bevelation said:


> Oh, I thought you were going to be mean and actually say it was useless.
> 
> Every bazooka taper and ex-bazooka taper I happened upon told me the super taper system was faster overall. Do we have a case of delusion vs. reality here?


 No, the super taper really is a piece of chit,, no delusion at all


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> No, the super taper really is a piece of chit,, no delusion at all


 I'll try it for myself, then.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> No, the super taper really is a piece of chit,, no delusion at all


:blink: Capt and I have had this debate before--- I learned with a hopper[ same as super taper] and I,m as fast if not faster than bazooka with it----to each their own---its messier tho!!!:yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Came across this super taper attachment on youtube for getting more speed out of it:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> Oh, I thought you were going to be mean and actually say it was useless.
> 
> Every bazooka taper and ex-bazooka taper I happened upon told me the super taper system was faster overall. Do we have a case of delusion vs. reality here?


Your delusion,I'm reality
you work in a market that is what size,dawson creek is 11,000 people,what does your surrounding area include.I work in a town of 400,000 pop.one million with surrounding towns and population.To survive in our market,you need the fastest toys to compete .If your making a ok income with your super taper,keep using it .But you sound like a kid that use to say kissing girls is yukky ,but then one day you tried it,and found out you were wrong .
I use to use the slop bucket,thought I was very fast ,would even beat a few odd bazooka guys .But then I got work with a large drywall company........man did those masters of the bazooka blow me out of the water .I was sold after that .:thumbsup:


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

Well tried bazooka today and it went ok . Gave it a good spray with Lanox which seemed to help . Had a couple of bubbles but I think it was air when I was filling it up .Is it a good idea to use a masher in the bucket when filling it up to help get air out of the mud to keep air out if you know what I mean.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I have a masher but dont seem to use it much, The mud should not have air pockets in it like that, never heard of that one, the mud gives a burp when finished drilling and thats it. How did you like the lanox, good stuff, better than smelling like an engine :thumbsup: Oh But if you have a tab of tape soaked in it at the start make sure you remove it and dont tape with it, I did once, left a inch long peice soaked through on and taped it to the ceiling, the painters wanted to know what the stain was that kept bleeding through, the builder suggested it may be a rat piss stain, so i said nothing but i knew what it was.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Pumping air in the tube?? masher will help,,, when bucket gets low I transfer the pump to a full bucket.. usually pre-mix 4 or 5 maybe more depending on job,, and I set them at key locations..


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I am new to the bazooka as well. I found the biggest help was keeping it well lubricated. If you don't it gets tough to use. Unless mine has something wrong with it? But a quick shot of wd40 every so often made a WORLD of difference.

I am still slow as hell, but I am sure it is worth sticking it out to learn.

scott


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> Your delusion,I'm reality
> you work in a market that is what size,dawson creek is 11,000 people,what does your surrounding area include.I work in a town of 400,000 pop.one million with surrounding towns and population.To survive in our market,you need the fastest toys to compete .If your making a ok income with your super taper,keep using it .But you sound like a kid that use to say kissing girls is yukky ,but then one day you tried it,and found out you were wrong .
> I use to use the slop bucket,thought I was very fast ,would even beat a few odd bazooka guys .But then I got work with a large drywall company........man did those masters of the bazooka blow me out of the water .I was sold after that .:thumbsup:


 I came up here from a market that paid out .18-20c /foot for finishing, and all that was used was super taper. I use all of the fast tools as much as possible, except for the bazooka. Over the span of time taken to finish a job, let's say a 10k foot house, I don't see myself gaining more than a half day using bazooka over using the super taper. I get better production paying a guy $20/hr to wipe, roll, and flush behind me.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> I am new to the bazooka as well. I found the biggest help was keeping it well lubricated. If you don't it gets tough to use. Unless mine has something wrong with it? But a quick shot of wd40 every so often made a WORLD of difference.
> 
> I am still slow as hell, but I am sure it is worth sticking it out to learn.
> 
> scott


Scott and others are right --lube it before you ever fill it , makes a big difference, even just water in the tube!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Heres a trick i find helpful when the mud is drying fast. Cut a thick sponge into a circle and stuff it in the end of the tube (wet it first). It keeps the mud from drying in the back of the tube.


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