# What is causing the edges of my joints to show?



## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

I need some good advice.

First my name is Don. I'll explain the "Sue" name later . I have been a drywall finisher for 30 years but Im having a problem now I can not explain.

I moved to Texas recently and just finished like 4 offices. The edges of every joint are showing. Another guy sanded one room and I saw how his edges were showing on his joints so I made damm sure to sand mine extra good. Im telling you, the joints looked perfect when I was done. No edges at all.

But now that they are painted, there they are. You can clearly see the edges of my 12in knife top and bottom. Sometimes that does happen from lack of sanding, but only on a random joint once in a while. Not every joint like this place.

I am at a loss at to what caused this. This is a new company I am working for and I am quickly losing respectability lol. 

The only thing I can possibly think of is they are priming the walls with block filler. They claim it does the same job as primer and is allot cheaper. Nowhere on the bucket of block filler does it say to use on drywall. Could this be the issue? Any other ideas?

Thanks for any input.

btw. I was using Sheetrock green lid compound. And some box mud I never seen until I moved here. Could it be the mud? I sand with 120 grit then I go over everything with my sanding sponge. Been doing it this way a long time.


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## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

I found this ad for block filler. It says it can be used on drywall as a texture finish? What about as a primer?




Do it Best
*Master Touch Latex Block Filler*

A high solids, pigmented latex product for use as either a block filler or a 1 coat drywall texture finish. Use block filler to fill, uniform and prime unpainted concrete and cinder block.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

For your edges showing through. My best guess is the rock has too much moisture. Check it with a moisture meter. Next step shine a 300W bulb over everything before priming. If you cant see any edges with a light and feel them with your hand you are good to go. Also you mentioned that you stick sand then run over your edges with a sponge. I did this method for years untill i purchased a flex edge sander. Aint nobody got time for that. Use a light and flex edge then feel with your hands too make extra sure. Now if its a critical lighting issue (On water or in direct sunlight or possibly semi gloss paint) your best bet is to give it an extra skim coat with loose or thin mud. Pull it as tight as you can sand to level or make them flat. If that doesnt work you can try and double them up (go at least 24 inches wide. And finally if that doesnt work Just go ahead a level 5 or skim coat entire ceiling.


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## ell (Jan 24, 2009)

*edges are showing*

Maybe it needs a primer/sealer instead of just a block primer if the edges are feathered and you have been doing this for 30 yrs,i'm sure its more than just a feathered edge problem.


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## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

I looked up flex edge sanders. Looks similar to the swivel sanding head I use on my pole. Is there a difference? 

As for the moisture meter. I looked up and found one at HD for like $40. I never used one before. Do you guys use one? I guess I need to research how to use it..

And to be honest, after I finished coated the joints and screws, I didn't like the way they looked. Could still see the tape way too much through the mud and the screws didnt look covered enough. So I actually did give them all another tight skim and it fixed the issue enough to satisfy me. Then I sanded and was positive the edges looked good enough to paint.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

As for being able to see the tape too much I would say that the tape and or second coat wasn't fully dry before you skimmed it. My theory with the edges showing is simple. Block filler needs a serious machine to spray it which means it is very thick to start with. They are probably thinning it down A LOT :yes:. They are Pouring water onto your joints making them swell up.


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## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> As for being able to see the tape too much I would say that the tape and or second coat wasn't fully dry before you skimmed it. My theory with the edges showing is simple. Block filler needs a serious machine to spray it which means it is very thick to start with. They are probably thinning it down A LOT :yes:. They are Pouring water onto your joints making them swell up.



You are exactly correct. I did put the finish coat before the bed coat was dry, but I did this knowing Id probably have to skim them again. I did this because I had to get it painted the next day and I knew the tight skim would dry quickly. And thats what I did. 

As for the block filler. They did not water it down this time. They dropped a screen into the bucket and painted away. But I still think this is my problem. A thick coat of the BF seems to me to have 0 hiding ability. 

I have done hospitals, schools, offices, convention centers, houses, and I have never seen this before. 


I just finished a 4 story office building for them. They did use block filler there too. They watered it down. But there was no problems with anything showing. BUT they level 5'd everything so I believe that is why there was no problems with the edges showing there. On this job, I finished everything normally and did not level 5. And every edge is showing..

Know something? I remember doing a ceiling at the last office building and not level 5-ing it because it was a storage room. Same thing happened. Every damm edge of my joints showed up. I just figured I got lazy with the sanding (seeing as it was only a storage room), but it's funny how the same thing happened here on this job.

I think it might be OK to use the block filler IF you level 5. But doing a normal finish and using the bf seems to cause issues.

I wonder if Im making sense...


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Sue34 said:


> I need some good advice.
> 
> First my name is Don. I'll explain the "Sue" name later . I have been a drywall finisher for 30 years but Im having a problem now I can not explain.
> 
> ...


 What is the box mud called?
Only reason i ask is that there is a ship on the way 2 the UK with some new Mud for us over here and its made in Texas
Would like 2 know its name so i can ask my supplier if its the same stuff!:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Are you sanding by hand or machine?? Boy that could start a good debate that question, I say machine can edge sand and blend better........................Run forrest run.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

I would also agree that a machine sand will blend better. However he may just be having a flashing problem. Said it doesn't happen when he level 5's
So it is probably a absorption differentiation between the mud and paper which is heightened by the product being used. I would ask if they can apply a proper primer and see if the problem ceases.


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## Sue34 (Apr 5, 2013)

I said by hand. Not opposed to machine but I been doing it this way since I was 18 yrs old with great results. 

I contacted a Sherwin Williams rep. He told me nowhere in the spec sheet does it say to use bf on drywall and he suggested against it. He then went on to recommend alternatives.

I spoke to my boss today about my concerns and assumptions. I saw a 5 gal bucket of primer at HD today for like $45. Same price as the block filler junk. I think it was made by Kilz. The guy said it covers nicely and had good hiding power. My boss has agreed to start using it.

Now I just hope that was the problem. lol


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Could be dust sticking to the furred paper. We always use a Swiffer type dust mop after sanding to remove as much dust as possible prior to priming on un textured walls. And then damp sponge all mudded areas to get the last of the dust and mat down the furred paper. Not too wet or you will take mud out of the screw holes and cause another problem. Whoever said shine the walls and ceilings with a bright bulb at a sharp angle is on the right track too.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

endo_alley said:


> Could be dust sticking to the furred paper. We always use a Swiffer type dust mop after sanding to remove as much dust as possible prior to priming on un textured walls. And then damp sponge all mudded areas to get the last of the dust and mat down the furred paper. Not too wet or you will take mud out of the screw holes and cause another problem. Whoever said shine the walls and ceilings with a bright bulb at a sharp angle is on the right track too.


Shouldn't have to do that... Just prime over fuzzed paper. Painter has to sand his primer anyway. A quick brush with a sand pole will take care of that. Also, he said he is hand sanding which wont fuzz up the paper much at all.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Got any pictures?


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Shouldn't have to do that... Just prime over fuzzed paper. Painter has to sand his primer anyway. A quick brush with a sand pole will take care of that. Also, he said he is hand sanding which wont fuzz up the paper much at all.


I have tried it every way under the sun over the last 30 or so years. Nothing has worked better than getting rid of the dust and furred paper. I guess it depends on how good you want the walls to look. Paint does not stick well to dust. So the painters compliment the finish work. We have tried sanding the furred paper line after primer. That does help. But nothing like dry mopping first and then damp sponging entire wall. All but eliminates the need for skimming the walls except in the most extreme sun conditions. Of course it goes without saying that all joints and bead checked with a straight edge. And all walls have previously been thoroughly touched up and sanded under bright lights .


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Taking a damp sponge is a good idea. To get rid of the dust on ceilings and in 3 ways I use blower from my shop vac. One day I will probly just open the front door and use a leaf blower.:thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

boco said:


> One day I will probly just open the front door and use a leaf blower.:thumbsup:



Don't laugh...That works very well! And fast!.....Just wear a mask ,and know your way out!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

That is what our sanders do. After they sand and sweep up they take a leaf blower to everything :yes:


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