# Usg Ultralite Panel Lighter drywall?



## DAVE17352

Has anyone hung the new USG Ultralite Drywall. It is suppose to be 30 percent lighter and cut easier. I am real curious, I would like to hear from some people that have used this product. They are going to be getting it in my area at the end of the year. If this stuff is for real I think it could make a big difference.


----------



## Hambone

I have not used the new drywall but I have seen it and picked up a 4x8 sheet and it is much lighter. The Chicago land area has it now not sure what other areas have it. I also heard that they are working on 5/8 as well.:yes:


----------



## Muddauber

What about the price tag?

I've heard it will be substantially higher than regular board.


----------



## Hambone

Muddauber said:


> What about the price tag?
> 
> I've heard it will be substantially higher than regular board.


 
The prices I have seen the ultralight was only about .40 a board more. For the hanger prob. well worth the .40. Not so sure the GC will be willing to pay the diff.


----------



## SlimPickins

I would hope the builders in my area would be willing to pay the less-than-a-penny-a-foot price, but I'd almost be willing to eat it if it's easier to cut, because production could possibly be boosted enough to make up for it. Heck, on 10,000 feet that's only about a hundred bucks.

Personally, I'd like to issue a challenge to all the sheetrock manufacturers out there....

I would like to see you make sheetrock equal in weight to rigid foam insulation. Go on....DO IT! please? You can call it "The Emperor's New Drywall", and I won't even charge you for the rights to the name!


----------



## ACS215

Here's a link to the Sheetrock UltraLight Panels product locator to see if the panels are available in your area yet: http://theweighthasbeenlifted.com/locator/.
Full disclosure: I am affiliated with USG, but this seems like a good addition to the discussion.


----------



## Honza

*USG Ultralight*

Dave, have you had a chance to form an opinion about that "Ultralight" ?

I cut my first piece today, Liked it !!!!! Seems to have a good feel.


----------



## Honza

*Ultralight*

Dave, have you had a chance to form an opinion about, Ultralight ? I cut my first piece yesterday, Feels good ?:thumbup:


----------



## sean B

That board is the ****.

Im no hanger, but I do have to carry it around once in awhile. you can really tell the differance in weight.

It has to be worth the price in productivity, no more having two guys holding a sheet against a wall.

I would pay the extra price just to give my arms a break on cielings.

stockers really love that board.


----------



## DAVE17352

Honza said:


> Dave, have you had a chance to form an opinion about, Ultralight ? I cut my first piece yesterday, Feels good ?:thumbup:


Yes I have had a chance to form a opinion. This board if out of sight, far out and groovy. It is totally sick. When you are hanging lid I would swear its 1/2 of the weight of no sag ceiling board. It is a game changer. It snaps great and scores easy. The roto zip goes through the board easier. You notice it on every piece even the little butts it just plain easier on the whole body and the hands. They only thing I don't like about it is the very edge of the recess is very hard, so when you go to bevel off a quarter of a inch it is a lot harder to do compared with the old obsolete board I use to use. Presently my supplier is not charging any more for the product. If it where to be a cent higher I would pay it especially if I was hanging the board. I might pay more if I am hanging the job, but when I sub out hanging I couldn't see going much more than a penny more. But a cent higher would really be fair as I don't have to spend the extra 3 cents a foot for ceiling board. 

So I just wish they made this stuff 30 years ago!
:thumbup:


----------



## Axecutioner-B

I can't wait to get my hands on that **** !!
________
Classaction lawsuit


----------



## evolve991

Awesome :thumbup::yes: It is definitely a third lighter! The rock cuts easier but the paper is hard on blades....I don't care!! I'll buy twice as many blades as long as I can hang this stuff!! Now if only they make Firecode the same!!

PS: USG My elbows THANK YOU very much!!!


----------



## DAVE17352

evolve991 said:


> Awesome :thumbup::yes: It is definitely a third lighter! The rock cuts easier but the paper is hard on blades....I don't care!! I'll but twice as many blades as long as I can hang this stuff!! Now if only they make Firecode the same!!
> 
> PS: USG My elbows THANK YOU very much!!!


The part about the paper being hard on blades is interesting. I have been using this board since the middle of January. Up until the last two houses my blade would last forever no kidding. But the last couple of houses it has been cutting very hard. There mix is either screwed up or they changed something for sure. I am going to ask my supplier. 

Sometime around August the 5/8 Firecode will be coming out!


----------



## evolve991

"Sometime around August the 5/8 Firecode will be coming out! "

:clap::thumbup::thumbsup::drink:


----------



## drywall guy158

*screw pops with ultralight board*

got word tonight that u.s.g. is having problems with screw pops with this board....anyone else hear anything on this yet ???


----------



## matt

Just about everyone has a 1/2" Lite/Ceiling out now. USG, Certainteed, National, American, Temple, heard GP does too. it's going for 10/msf over 1/2" Regular or .48/4x12 sheet. 

the 5/8 product is a bit more tricky. The gypsum & fiberglass strands is what gives it the fire resistance. if you reduce the gypsum content, it won't last as long. that's why USG is calling it 5/8 Firecode 30 (30 minute rating) instead of 1 hour for 5/8 Type X. I think 1/2 Regular is good for 45 minutes, so why would an architect specify a product (5/8 firecode 30) that costs more, and you would need 2 layers to equal 5/8 type X. National (Gold Bond) used to make 5/8 Regular board that did weight less, non-fire rated, but they discontinued that many years ago.


----------



## chris

Pabco 5/8 is lighter than USG 5/8 but it is a bit more crumbly


----------



## gazman

This sounds like something we have had is Australia for quite a few years. We have 3 majour manufacturers Boral, Lafarge, and CSR.
CSR sheet is called CDboard (controlled density) aparntly they "pump" air into the gypsum. It is definetly lighter than the other 2 majors. We have been using it since it came out and I have not found a down side to it. Just my 2cent worth (thats 3cents American at the moment:thumbup: for us. Not so good for you. There has never been a better time for us to buy tool from the states.)


----------



## cdwoodcox

This drywall is definitely lighter but it has many disadvantages. Main thing I don't like so far is when ripping an inch off the bevel. When you score the front paper and then proceed to snap board the unscored side breaks up to an inch below where it should. I have been hanging this stuff the last 2 days and 70% of the time this happens. Rep is supposed to be out tomorrow. Salesman said today that this is an ongoing problem with this drywall. 
Second thing I don't like about this board is it doesn't want to hold the screws properly. 
I will be using the regular drywall until they get all this junk worked out.


----------



## gazman

cdwoodcox said:


> This drywall is definitely lighter but it has many disadvantages. Main thing I don't like so far is when ripping an inch off the bevel. When you score the front paper and then proceed to snap board the unscored side breaks up to an inch below where it should. I have been hanging this stuff the last 2 days and 70% of the time this happens. Rep is supposed to be out tomorrow. Salesman said today that this is an ongoing problem with this drywall.
> Second thing I don't like about this board is it doesn't want to hold the screws properly.
> I will be using the regular drywall until they get all this junk worked out.


With the CD board that we have in Australia to rip the edge off the board I run the knife on both the face and back of the board then crack the cut then lift the strip off the board. This leaves a realy nice cut with very little dags.


----------



## cdwoodcox

gazman said:


> With the CD board that we have in Australia to rip the edge off the board I run the knife on both the face and back of the board then crack the cut then lift the strip off the board. This leaves a realy nice cut with very little dags.


The lite drywall rips great outside of the bevel. Their bevel is too hard and the paper doesn't seem to bond like it should within the bevel. 
If you're cd board is only giving you problems within the bevel a blade runner would score both sides together and maybe save you some time.
myself I will just use regular drywall and keep production up I don't have time to mess with a blade runner or score both sides of drywall just to save lifting a few pounds.


----------



## gazman

cdwoodcox said:


> If you're cd board is only giving you problems within the bevel a blade runner would score both sides together and maybe save you some time.


It is not realy giving a problem I just find it easier, quicker, and neater this way. Here all of CSR board has gone down the CD route with no real down sides.:thumbsup: Couldnt be bothered with a blade runner just another tool to carry around.


----------



## CatD7

What spooks mea bout this board is that it is not time proven. What if all this stuff falls apart in 5 or 10 years????? We could have China drywall all over again.


----------



## gazman

CatD7 said:


> What spooks mea bout this board is that it is not time proven. What if all this stuff falls apart in 5 or 10 years????? We could have China drywall all over again.


Yes but look at all of the work you get to do.:thumbsup:


----------



## DAVE17352

*Ultra lite*

I have been using the ultra lite exclusively sense it came out at the first of the year. There is no way this 54 year old rocker is going back to regular board. I agree the edges are a little to hard and it does seem to eat up blades a little faster, but I haven't had any problems with screws popping. It breaks clean and I love hanging it, especially on the lid. They have just brought out the 5/8 ultra lite here and I can't wait to try some of the out!


----------



## moore

I will see this board for the first time tomorrow ..I have the hangers set up for the job,,but I wanna hang this rock myself ,,just so I can play with it..


----------



## msd

moore i think you will like finishing over top of it also seems like the face paper is a little bit slicker tools dont seem to drag as much.


----------



## cdwoodcox

Well after hanging a couple hundred sheets I have to admit it does have some issues within the bevels But my overall opinion of the board is good. 
A few georgia pacific reps came out to see first hand how the board was breaking and assured me they were working on the issue.
Playing around with the board I'm fairly sure I could hang 12' sheets on ceiling by myself if I had to. I was able to pick up a full sheet laying flat over head and raise up and down forcefully with no cracking. hell it didn't even act like it wanted to snap and this was 12' 54'' so 12' 48'' would be no problem.


----------



## moore

Man ...What you talkin bout .. I LOVE IT . Tuco likes It too ,,he stopped squealing .. I had to rip 1 1/2 off all bottom sheets ..had no problem ripping . cuts clean ..no gobbles or crumbles.. What does It weigh ? 4x12
65 lbs? That's what it feels like to me .. I did go trough a few blades thou.. It's solid board..


----------



## cdwoodcox

The reps told me it was designed so a 12' sheet weighs the same as a regular 8' sheet. 
I had to rip an inch off all my sheets it wasn't fun some of them ripped fine over half sucked.

With that new light drywall tuco should get a vacation.


----------



## moore

I see my local Lowe's has the NG light . 8' only ..same price as the standard .


----------



## wnybassman

moore said:


> I see my local Lowe's has the NG light . 8' only ..same price as the standard .


We used it the last couple jobs. It didn't seem much lighter to me, not like the USG is anyway.


----------



## Zendik

All sheetrock should be 4X12 core/lead board...
:whistling2:


----------



## Mudshark

*Ultralight Board*

Been using the ultralight on last few jobs and liking it. :thumbup: I tend to agree with some of the previous comments on cutting rips though. Overall it is a welcome relief on the weight factor alone. Have been wondering if all the specs for regular board still apply to this stuff? Same number of screws to hold it up? Is fire rating the same? Have been told the local Home Depot will only be stocking this now in the 1/2 inch and not the regular. All the rest of our suppliers have it now as well. Seems we always follow a few years behind the states when it comes to new technology!


----------



## Shivers20

I started using the 1/2 inch board, scores about the same and its really light. No screw pops. :thumbup:Wont be going back to the old rock thats for sure.


----------



## evolve991

We've hung some of the Non FC 5/8" and LOVE IT!!! Screw pops? Different density=different depth setting and STOP shoving the gun as hard,the screws walk in better now. Rip problems? Maybe its the local plant botching the mix or paper...I've been cutting 1 inch rips off the bevel easily and the damn thing actually stays in one piece!!!! Well.....when I HAD work that is.....


----------



## evolve991

wnybassman said:


> We used it the last couple jobs. It didn't seem much lighter to me, not like the USG is anyway.


 
None of the others are as much lighter as USG. But at least LaFarge is now actually drywall not rip rap sandwiches. Gold Bond gets on my nerves with that super compacted bevel.


----------



## Shivers20

Anyone know if these new boards are going to come with something similar to gold bonds gridmax in the near future, I'm getting tired of snapping chalk lines to mark the location of the studs and "eyeing up" my screws in the field. Anyone know of an easier method? I didn't want to derail this thread but I guess I just did=)


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Shivers20 said:


> Anyone know if these new boards are going to come with something similar to gold bonds gridmax in the near future, I'm getting tired of snapping chalk lines to mark the location of the studs and "eyeing up" my screws in the field. Anyone know of an easier method? I didn't want to derail this thread but I guess I just did=)


You're snapping chalk lines so you know where to screw!? 
Wow...Is it your first day on the job? Use your eyes. Problem solved.


----------



## Shivers20

I really need to stop drinking on the job, maybe that will help. :thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Shivers20 said:


> I really need to stop drinking on the job, maybe that will help. :thumbsup:


Hahaha!! Well let's not get carried away now :laughing:


----------



## moore

Shivers20 said:


> Anyone know if these new boards are going to come with something similar to gold bonds gridmax in the near future, I'm getting tired of snapping chalk lines to mark the location of the studs and "eyeing up" my screws in the field. Anyone know of an easier method? I didn't want to derail this thread but I guess I just did=)


 
Mark your studs on the ceiling and floors It will help to eyeball the field screws..


----------



## Mudshark

I agree with Moore, mark the floor as well as the ceiling. Occasionally when studs are running the same way as the length of the sheets on the ceilings, I will do a quick and dirty line using the pencil at end of the moving tape trick. But not the chalk line, thats just too much work.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Mudshark said:


> I agree with Moore, mark the floor as well as the ceiling. Occasionally when studs are running the same way as the length of the sheets on the ceilings, I will do a quick and dirty line using the pencil at end of the moving tape trick. But not the chalk line, thats just too much work.


Same here. Only time i'll really ever draw lines on a sheet is if i'm doing a stand up and I am completely hiding all the studs. Then i'll mark where my studs are as mudshark said by quickly tracing them using my pencil and tape.


----------



## harvey randall

*lite wseight*



DAVE17352 said:


> Has anyone hung the new USG Ultralite Drywall. It is suppose to be 30 percent lighter and cut easier. I am real curious, I would like to hear from some people that have used this product. They are going to be getting it in my area at the end of the year. If this stuff is for real I think it could make a big difference.


 im not a fan , the way it fractures on the butts- its lightler for sure hang it and find the down side. crunmbles, shame onn usg,-----------------------


----------



## Shivers20

Mudshark said:


> I agree with Moore, mark the floor as well as the ceiling. Occasionally when studs are running the same way as the length of the sheets on the ceilings, I will do a quick and dirty line using the pencil at end of the moving tape trick. But not the chalk line, thats just too much work.


I've worked on a couple of homes (open floor layout) where I snapped chalk lines on the ceilings that were 100ft long, drives me insane when I miss the stud, gotta back up the screw, break out my hammer and smash it in. It Really annoys me haha, started marking the sheets on the floor like you suggested thanks!


----------



## Bazooka

This lightweight board is garbage. I have had two of my hanging crews use this board. A cut up 22,000 board ft home as well as an easy 6500 sq board foot home. All of the outlets and lights had blowouts, well at least 80%. On the large home our crew used a full roll of tape detailing lights, outlets and fractures. This board is horrible. I'm sure the hangers enjoyed it, but any finishing crew will not be pleased. There are some serious flaws with the brittleness of this lightweight Sheetrock.


----------



## harvey randall

*lite weight board*

just out of curiousity, does any one know anyone in the board giveing buisness. hangers better get on board. lite weight sucksa storm. too bad too, usg shot and missed. loved their commercial though. big ass elephant whinnei ng like a baby. how pathetic, shove that crap down our throates. no spells n o.


----------



## super rocker

Bazooka said:


> This lightweight board is garbage. I have had two of my hanging crews use this board. A cut up 22,000 board ft home as well as an easy 6500 sq board foot home. All of the outlets and lights had blowouts, well at least 80%. On the large home our crew used a full roll of tape detailing lights, outlets and fractures. This board is horrible. I'm sure the hangers enjoyed it, but any finishing crew will not be pleased. There are some serious flaws with the brittleness of this lightweight Sheetrock.


 

I have been hanging USG lightweight for over two years and never had any problems. If you had 80% blowouts on lights and receptacles, it is not the drywall. It is your hangers.


----------



## SlimPickins

I was throwing a bevel on the backside of the lightweight the other day and I came across something super hard and brittle....it was like carving a f***ing seashell.


----------



## chris

lightweight board is just another way to keep the hangers and tapers arguing:yes: sht board..


----------



## Zendik

cdwoodcox said:


> This drywall is definitely lighter but it has many disadvantages. Main thing I don't like so far is when ripping an inch off the bevel. When you score the front paper and then proceed to snap board the unscored side breaks up to an inch below where it should. I have been hanging this stuff the last 2 days and 70% of the time this happens. Rep is supposed to be out tomorrow. Salesman said today that this is an ongoing problem with this drywall.
> Second thing I don't like about this board is it doesn't want to hold the screws properly.
> I will be using the regular drywall until they get all this junk worked out.


Scoring the backside on an inch rip helps.


----------

