# The two bucks give bazooka lessons



## 2buckcanuck

:whistling2::jester::yes::thumbup:


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## PrecisionTaping

Lesson #1
Don't listen to anything JR says. :jester:


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## 2buckcanuck

As I said, I would give basic lessons, for fellow tradesman who were thinking about purchasing a bazooka. They are going to be super basic, for guys who have never held a bazooka in their hands before, or have seen one in action, but want to learn how to run one.

So I will be trying to make short vids, just a minute or two long, and applying the K.I.S.S method for training. Just trying to explain to the other masters of the zook, that these will be "INSTRUCTIONAL" vids. If any other guys also want to contribute video's, feel free to (PA rocker:whistling2. And of coarse, feel free to chirp in if you think I missed anything......... I think:blink:

First vid, where to lubricate the zook, and which way to put the tape on.





lube up, wheel bushings, front gear, back gear, pin, and most important the cutting chain. We just use 10w 30 motor oil or silicone spray, use what ever you want, don't want this to become a lubricant debate


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## Bazooka-Joe

thanks mr. 2buck I just threw me zook in a pale of Transoil


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## 2buckcanuck

Bazooka-Joe said:


> thanks mr. 2buck I just threw me zook in a pale of Transoil


That's a good point Bazooka Joe, I forgot about that one. Bazooka's like to have their heads soaked in a coffee can of transmission oil.

We thank you and your gang:yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe

Thanks again Mr. 2buck and your gang


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## Mudslinger

I like to oil the plunger also, bazooka has less drag then.


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## gazman

Thanks 2Buck and all other contributors to this thread. If it stays on topic I can see this getting a lot of hits from blokes like myself.:thumbsup:


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## carpentaper

how do you clean it up after soaking it it transoil? do you just wipe it off as clean as you can with a rag?


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## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> how do you clean it up after soaking it it transoil? do you just wipe it off as clean as you can with a rag?


:yes::yes::yes::yes:


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## P.A. ROCKER

Not to argue, but, I'm right handed and run my roll like you as the left hander loaded it. I feel I have better control of the tape with my control hand that way. I've never gotten a paper cut.:whistling2:

I just watched another of your vids and you run it as a right hander.


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## JustMe

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Not to argue, but, I'm right handed and run my roll like you as the left hander loaded it. I feel I have better control of the tape with my control hand that way. I've never gotten a paper cut.:whistling2:
> 
> I just watched another of your vids and you run it as a right hander.


I'm thinking 2buck is holding a bazooka in his videos in what could be called a left hand position, P.A.

I'm a right hander as well, but there's some things I do left handed. Or at least what's called left handed.

Example: I hit a baseball with a left hand swing - http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&n....0.0.1.158.827.7j2.9.0...0.0...1c.UBNpdf1FLnA 

and use a hockey stick that has what's called a left handed curve -
http://hockeystickexpert.com/right-vs-left-handed-hockey-stick/


As the hockey guru says in that article: 

- The top hand needs to be the strongest, most coordinated hand.
- Playing with your dominate hand on top of the stick gives you more control with stick handling and slap shots.

That's how I find it when using my right hand at the end/top of a bat, hockey stick, or bazooka tube.


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> And of coarse, feel free to chirp in if you think I missed anything......... I think:blink:


Before I forget, when watching 2bkjr. do his fast wipe of 4' high flat tapes, I was thinking/wondering if you might have put a bit of drag on the paper with your fingers when running the taper, to keep it tight so there was no wrinkling issues when wiping. Going to show that as being a 'super basic'(?)


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## Bazooka-Joe

carpentaper said:


> how do you clean it up after soaking it it transoil? do you just wipe it off as clean as you can with a rag?


Ran like a dream today, I lubed my old one with marine grease right to the gaskets and it ran so smooth, this is the first time I did it like Mr. 2buck instructed, 

just took it out of the pale and leaned it with the head on the pale to drip dry, just grabbed some napkins and soaked up the rest of the oil, when at work dropped it into a pale of water and what was free oil surfaced to the top. pumped it up and when tape went through tore the red tape of and away I went runs so good I'm sure you will thank mr. 2buck
:thumbsup:


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## moore

I can cut rock right or left handed..but can only play with my d!ck with my right! Go figure!:blink:


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## JustMe

moore said:


> Go figure!:blink:


Not enough to go around?


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## moore

JustMe said:


> Not enough to go around?


 Story of my life:whistling2:


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## cazna

When the zook is upside down in the oil, Put a little spray oil/lube in the hand end of the tube so it runs down the inside, Get that lubed as well so the plunger seal can slip, Its surprising how dry and mud lined it can get. Or do a capt and stick a damp sponge in the end if your taping in hot weather, Just have a rag ready for your first fill, Some oil will come out the end.

Make sure that dam blades a sharp one, Have many and change em often, You can turn them over and use the other side if you dont let it get to bad and make sure it goes all the way back in the guide, If it doesnt then the tape will tear and jamb up and give you all sorts of hassels, Tape can get in there and cause that, Gooser guide and needles need to be sharp and set right as well so they can pick up the tape, feed it, let go at the top, then go back down and pick up again so you dont have to always hand feed a new tape like jnr seems to do, Its only a few set screws to undo and move things and retightin, If its dropped or knocked the guide can move then it wont feed tape very well.

When cleaning get a small peice of plastic hose, Fit it to your gun nozzel and fit that to the filler nozzel and hose in there, That filler nozzel seal has to be clear and clean, If it gets dried mud in there then next time you use it you will fill it, Start to tape, then wonder why the hell is all that mud pissing out of the filler nozzel when i tape, Its a hassel trying to clear it then. You can buy ames guns and nozzels for this.


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## moore

How to un-jam a bazooka!!! lol!!!:lol:


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## P.A. ROCKER

JustMe said:


> I'm thinking 2buck is holding a bazooka in his videos in what could be called a left hand position, P.A.


I was figuring he ment he ran to the left as in counter clockwise. Left handers usually run to the right. Being that you steer from the bottom of the tube usually your dominant eye/hand gets that position.
I can either but I slower moving left to right and tape cuts aren't as accurate.


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## 2buckcanuck

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Not to argue, but, I'm right handed and run my roll like you as the left hander loaded it. I feel I have better control of the tape with my control hand that way. I've never gotten a paper cut.:whistling2:
> 
> I just watched another of your vids and you run it as a right hander.


Uhmm:blink: well..... were talking 2bjr here, So maybe Moose boy is right about something, read post #2.

It's what justme said, I'm going by holding a hockey stick, and I go counter clock wise. I can go right handed in special circumstances, but it's not my preferred hand. Also, if I do pick up the zook when 2bjr has it set up for him, it does cut into my fore arm. So I thought it would be something to address, for those who have never ran a zook before.

And to confuse even more, when I use to golf, I would drive right but putt left. Baseball I would bat right, but would want to bunt left handed. I sucked at sports, except for hockey...... I was really good


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> How to un-jam a bazooka!!! lol!!!:lol:


Thank you Moore, Your statement leads right into our next video

Video #2 HOW TO UNJAM A BAZOOKA:thumbsup:


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## P.A. ROCKER

I took this from Justme's link....



If you hold your hockey stick with your left hand on top of the stick and the right hand down the stick, then you are a right handed shooter.
If you use the hockey stick with your right hand on top and your left hand down the stick then you are in a left handed configuration.
*Just remember that the bottom hand dictates which handed stick you are using (ex: left hand down means left handed stick)*
 
You BOTTOM hand dictates left or right


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## cazna

I think jnr was getting a little excited at you jerking the zooka :blink:

Or get one of these, Or the capt once said some steel timber strapping works as well.

I run my zooka left hand at the top right hand at the bottom working from right to left on ceiling angles walking backwards.

Good clips 2buck the helpful :yes:


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## JustMe

cazna said:


> Make sure that dam blades a sharp one, Have many and change em often, You can turn them over and use the other side if you dont let it get to bad and make sure it goes all the way back in the guide, If it doesnt then the tape will tear and jamb up and *give you all sorts of hassels*, Tape can get in there and cause that.


I've seen guys fight with jambs, including myself. Like 2buck just showed in his video, I finally took to taking a moment and releasing the blade and pulling it through, then clearing the jamb. Keeps the problem of paper tightly jambing up when trying to dig it out to a bare minimum. Can't remember the last time a jamb tied me up since taking to doing that.

And you don't damage blades that way, like 2buck mentioned. 



cazna said:


> When cleaning get a small peice of plastic hose, Fit it to your gun nozzel and fit that to the filler nozzel and hose in there, That filler nozzel has to be clear and clean, If it gets dried mud in there then next time you use it you will fill it, Start to tape, then wonder why the hell is all that mud pissing out of the filler nozzel when i tape, Its a hassel trying to clear it then.


When I'm cleaning up, I pump water directly from my pump to clean the gun nozzle, gun head well enough. Like I do when filling it with mud with the pump.
Btw: I'll have the pump all the way in the water pail to do that, not hanging off the side of the pail. Otherwise, as you know, water all over.

I keep the mud gate on the tube closed after, so it doesn't dry up too much anything left in there - I don't get too much into cleaning everything up/out. When I need the taper, a little pre-soaking the head in a water bucket seems to work well enough - don't seem to have problems like dried mud jambing the one way filler valve open, as the soaking should soften any residual mud that was left in there. As long as what was left was more a film, or thin, not 'chunky', and the water couldn't soften it up well enough, soon enough.

Just another perspective for anyone who's going to be new to a bazooka.


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## JustMe

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I took this from Justme's link....
> 
> 
> 
> If you hold your hockey stick with your left hand on top of the stick and the right hand down the stick, then you are a right handed shooter.
> If you use the hockey stick with your right hand on top and your left hand down the stick then you are in a left handed configuration.
> *Just remember that the bottom hand dictates which handed stick you are using (ex: left hand down means left handed stick)*
> 
> You BOTTOM hand dictates left or right


If I'm getting you right here, P.A., hold a bazooka like a hockey stick. Which hand is down/at the bottom?


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## P.A. ROCKER

Jamb def 

1. 
Architecture, Building Trades . a. either of the vertical sides of a doorway, arch, window, or other opening. 

b. either of two stones, timbers, etc., forming the sidepieces for the frame of an opening. 


2. Armor . greave.


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## P.A. ROCKER

JustMe said:


> If I'm getting you right here, P.A., hold a bazooka like a hockey stick. Which hand is down/at the bottom?


I hold a hockey stick with my right hand below my left hand , same as the zook.


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## 2buckcanuck

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I took this from Justme's link....
> 
> 
> 
> If you hold your hockey stick with your left hand on top of the stick and the right hand down the stick, then you are a right handed shooter.
> If you use the hockey stick with your right hand on top and your left hand down the stick then you are in a left handed configuration.
> *Just remember that the bottom hand dictates which handed stick you are using (ex: left hand down means left handed stick)*
> 
> You BOTTOM hand dictates left or right


Well then, lets go by what I say:whistling2:

See the pic of this famous Hockey player, I taught him everything I knew about hockey,:whistling2: and he shoots left:yes:

When I hold the zook or run it in a horizontal position, it's on the left side of me:yes:

same way Wayne Gretzky is holding his hockey stick


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## JustMe

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I hold a hockey stick with my right hand below my left hand , same as the zook.


So you're cutting with your right(?) Which would mean you run opposite to 2buck and I. I go counterclockwise - to my left - in a room.


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## JustMe

JustMe said:


> When I need the taper, a little pre-soaking the head in a water bucket seems to work well enough - don't seem to have problems like dried mud jambing the one way filler valve open, as the soaking should soften any residual mud that was left in there. As long as what was left was more a film, or thin, not 'chunky', and the water couldn't soften it up well enough, soon enough.


A btw on this: To get water into the one way filler while pre-soaking things, you should consider holding the valve open for a moment, once you've stuck the head in water. Otherwise, water likely won't get up inside the valve opening, because of there being an air pocket.

But I usually don't bother. Just getting it wet in there seems to work for me well enough.


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## P.A. ROCKER

It must be a canuck thing not knowing right from left:whistling2:. Gretzky swings his stick to make a shot in a left to right motion. 2buck swings his zook from right to left to score a winning tape run. If Gretzky Picked up a zook he'd hold it opposite 2buck cause he's a lefty.
Like I said I'm right handed same as 2buck.


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## moore

boy!! sounds like alot work.. lube/un jam / left to right/ right to left/un jam again/ .parts that can break... and I'M rollin right by ya with my wool roller ...:jester:Without me what other hand finishers would you guys have to make fun of? The way I see it.. I'm A staple to this forum..


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## JustMe

P.A. ROCKER said:


> It must be a canuck thing not knowing right from left:whistling2:. Gretzky swings his stick to make a shot in a left to right motion. 2buck swings his zook from right to left to score a winning tape run. If Gretzky Picked up a zook he'd hold it opposite 2buck cause he's a lefty.
> Like I said I'm right handed same as 2buck.


Gretzky, 2buck (from what he's saying), and I all shoot hockey sticks the same way.

Gretzky is right handed, but shoots left handed. That's how they label him. A discussion on it: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070927175309AAfreRJ

Don't know if it'll help, but further into the hockey article you quoted from, a couple comments from the hockey guru:



The top hand needs to be the strongest, most coordinated hand.
Playing with your dominate hand on top of the stick gives you more control with stick handling and slap shots

So for at least 2buck and I, the right hand is on the 'top' of the bazooka - the 'stick's' 'end' - to be able to best guide it. Gretzky would likely run the same.


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## JustMe

moore said:


> The way I see it.. I'm A staple to this forum..


Yeah, we should pin you to the wall and leave you there.


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## moore

JustMe said:


> Yeah, we should pin you to the wall and leave you there.


 Like I would give a chit!:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

Well you guys continue to argue whose left or right handed, I will post another vid for those wanting to learn how to run a Bazooka.

Video #3 HOW TO FILL THE BAZOOKA






Some use a goose neck to fill, well I don't, I find them pointless to own. Some say the goose neck sucks in less air, well I would half to call B.S. on that.:yes:


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> Well you guys continue to argue whose left or right handed


It could be just a piece missing that's giving a different perspective. The way I'm seeing it, at this time, it's the left hand doing the actual shooting, and the right hand doing the guiding, when you get a right handed person like Gretzky being called a left handed shooter.

-----

Should add that I guide my bazooka with the right hand - right hand at the end of the tube.


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## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Well you guys continue to argue whose left or right handed, I will post another vid for those wanting to learn how to run a Bazooka.
> 
> Video #3 HOW TO FILL THE BAZOOKA
> 
> Automatic taper lessons for newbs, filling the Bazooka - YouTube
> 
> Some use a goose neck to fill, well I don't, I find them pointless to own. Some say the goose neck sucks in less air, well I would half to call B.S. on that.:yes:


 And I still haven't bought a box filler..:blink:


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> I think jnr was getting a little excited at you jerking the zooka :blink:
> 
> Or get one of these, Or the capt once said some steel timber strapping works as well.
> 
> I run my zooka left hand at the top right hand at the bottom working from right to left on ceiling angles walking backwards.
> 
> Good clips 2buck the helpful :yes:


LOL







, you are a tool whore, you carry a tool in case your zook jams.

You half to admit Cazna the tool whore, once you master the zook, you rarely jam it up any more. Funny thing was, right after I made that vid, I got a minor jam, first one in a long time. Plus I think it's been years since I had to unjam it with some type of tool. But as I said in the vid, newbs jam them up really bad some how. 

So newbies on the zook, come to a complete STOP, then cut the tape...... Yot too Cazna the left handed Bazooka runner:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> And I still haven't bought a box filler..:blink:


I can send you one if you want, got a spare one, still suppose to send you that certainteed "T" shirt.

Just not too keen on seeing your arse:blink:


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## 2buckcanuck

Video #4 HOW TO FEED THE TAPE


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## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> I can send you one if you want, got a spare one, still suppose to send you that certainteed "T" shirt.
> 
> Just not too keen on seeing your arse:blink:


 I'm happy with what i have Bro.. My pump works just fine..:yes:
I found this blue line pump on ebay ..$5 bid


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## 2buckcanuck

Video #5 Flat tapes

Of the 3 ways to feed a tape, you will mostly use the hand feed or dry feed when doing flats. Feeding off the walls has more to do with the angle tapes.

I would recommend to anyone who is beginning on a zook, to only do flat tapes for the first few houses. Odds are you will have success when doing wall flats. Ceiling tapes, maybe 50 - 50 chance. You half to start using the finger/wheel when doing ceiling tapes. 

First you half to get use to holding the zook, feeding the tape, then getting your aim at cutting down pact. That's why I say in this quick vid, that once you get ok at running the wall flats, start using the finger on the walls, even though you don't half to. It will get you use to the operation of the finger, which will become the most important aspect of running the zook. That finger becomes your hand, so it has to become second nature to you when running it.

When you become good or comfortable with using the finger, Then your ready for ceiling flats, then the upright angles, then finally the horizontal angles.

So for example

first house, only do wall flats, then use what ever method you used before to finish taping house (banjo, slop bucket, cp tube, by hand etc..)

2nd house,wall flats again but practice using finger

3rd house, wall flats and ceilings

4th house, All flats and only upright/vertical angles

Think everyone gets the idea, progress your way up. Don't try to tape out a whole house first day using it, odds are you will fail, or want to give up on it


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## 2buckcanuck

Video # 6 CEILING TAPES


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## 2buckcanuck

Something you can't teach is the mud mix, and why make a video of mixing mud

But the mud mix is all important, and everyone uses different mud world wide.

The mud mix employs the Goldilocks rule, too stiff flat tapes drag and don't wipe well, too runny flat tapes fall, perfect mix.... well.....

Angle tapes same thing, but, depending on what you use to do your angles, (angle head type or size) odds are your mix MIGHT be more runny than your flat tape mix

Using CGC (USG) red , lite mud, were around 7 cups for flats and angle tapes 11


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## 2buckcanuck

:whistling2:Just some screwing around vids on the angles, Might post some vids on how to do the angle tapes later, see how this thread goes..

Oh, and we were having big time trouble with the gooser (needle), can't get it feeding right, one adjusting screw is striped. Time for a new zook


2bjr fails:thumbup:





2bjr in the closet





2bjr comes out of the closet


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## Kiwiman

I want a Trim-Tex doll


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## gam026

2buckcanuck said:


> :whistling2:Just some screwing around vids on the angles, Might post some vids on how to do the angle tapes later, see how this thread goes..
> 
> Oh, and we were having big time trouble with the gooser (needle), can't get it feeding right, one adjusting screw is striped. Time for a new zook
> 
> 
> 2bjr fails:thumbup:
> fail - YouTube
> 
> 2bjr in the closet
> bazooka fail - YouTube
> 2bjr comes out of the closet
> automatic taper - YouTube



You should borrow PT's camera. Feeling sick right now. 

But overall great vids. Down here in NS nobody really uses zooks and the only place that carries them has no idia how they work.


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## 2buckcanuck

gam026 said:


> You should borrow PT's camera. Feeling sick right now.
> 
> But overall great vids. Down here in NS nobody really uses zooks and the only place that carries them has no idia how they work.


2bjr is heading to Nova Scotia this month, on the 2oth, he could give you hands on instructions.........:yes:

( actually, I'm just telling you this Gam, so you can get to hell out of blue nose country , before he gets there.......:whistling2:)


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## gam026

2buckcanuck said:


> 2bjr is heading to Nova Scotia this month, on the 2oth, he could give you hands on instructions.........:yes:
> 
> ( actually, I'm just telling you this Gam, so you can get to hell out of blue nose country , before he gets there.......:whistling2:)


Haha, does he need a job??I have a couple 2bucks workin for me already. :whistling2:


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## DLSdrywall

2buckcanuck said:


> Something you can't teach is the mud mix, and why make a video of mixing mud
> 
> But the mud mix is all important, and everyone uses different mud world wide.
> 
> The mud mix employs the Goldilocks rule, too stiff flat tapes drag and don't wipe well, too runny flat tapes fall, perfect mix.... well.....
> 
> Angle tapes same thing, but, depending on what you use to do your angles, (angle head type or size) odds are your mix MIGHT be more runny than your flat tape mix
> 
> Using CGC (USG) red , lite mud, were around 7 cups for flats and angle tapes 11


You mean you drink 18 coffee's before you start taping no wonder 2buck jr rolls that zook lol


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## keke

2buckcanuck said:


> Video #5 Flat tapes
> 
> Of the 3 ways to feed a tape, you will mostly use the hand feed or dry feed when doing flats. Feeding off the walls has more to do with the angle tapes.
> 
> I would recommend to anyone who is beginning on a zook, to only do flat tapes for the first few houses. Odds are you will have success when doing wall flats. Ceiling tapes, maybe 50 - 50 chance. You half to start using the finger/wheel when doing ceiling tapes.
> 
> First you half to get use to holding the zook, feeding the tape, then getting your aim at cutting down pact. That's why I say in this quick vid, that once you get ok at running the wall flats, start using the finger on the walls, even though you don't half to. It will get you use to the operation of the finger, which will become the most important aspect of running the zook. That finger becomes your hand, so it has to become second nature to you when running it.
> 
> When you become good or comfortable with using the finger, Then your ready for ceiling flats, then the upright angles, then finally the horizontal angles.
> 
> So for example
> 
> first house, only do wall flats, then use what ever method you used before to finish taping house (banjo, slop bucket, cp tube, by hand etc..)
> 
> 2nd house,wall flats again but practice using finger
> 
> 3rd house, wall flats and ceilings
> 
> 4th house, All flats and only upright/vertical angles
> 
> Think everyone gets the idea, progress your way up. Don't try to tape out a whole house first day using it, odds are you will fail, or want to give up on it
> 
> Automatic taper - learning flat tapes - YouTube


I would recommend for beginners 
- firstly to play around your own house with zooka - just get use to it run it without mud ,just paper to get idea how to cut it
-first house choose a small room like bathroom for training with mud.do everything flats internals squareset 
-second house do all flats and try internals-vertical
-third house do all flats and ceilings and try squareset-horizontal
- fourth house do everything
-fifth house try to run it faster
Don't forget mud must be runny and NEVER run base(hot mud)until you're confident and got enough experience :whistling2::whistling2: 
HAPPY RUNNING


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## Mudshark

*compound tube*

Thanks 2buck for these easy to follow videos. I am sure some fellows will learn from them. The tip of only going about 15 feet on ceilings is a good one unless of course you have 2buck jr wiping right behind you. Many a long ceiling tape has come down on the floor or the head and shoulders of some of us trying to do too much at a time. One thing that still blows me away though is your water measuring devices. (Tim Hortons coffee mugs) Why not use one of your compound tubes instead (its a lot faster). It might not be as precise as I often will go 1/2 a tube or 3/4 a tube depending on the mud. Just a thought.


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## cazna

Or a plastic measuring jug :yes:


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## gazman

Our mud varies from batch to batch, there is no way I could say to add three cups every time. Some times it is real wet and does not need any water, then on the next house you may get a dry batch and it could need half a liter.:furious:

Usually though once I work out the first bucket of the batch they are all the same.


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## JustMe

Mudshark said:


> One thing that still blows me away though is your water measuring devices. (Tim Hortons coffee mugs) Why not use one of your compound tubes instead (its a lot faster). It might not be as precise as I often will go 1/2 a tube or 3/4 a tube depending on the mud. Just a thought.


A tube is what I use as well. If one wanted accuracy, could mark it with something like a felt marker or paint in 1 or 2 spots on the handle I suppose, and pull water up to those marks. Or use the marks as a bit of a guide, if the mud is changing some.


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## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> Thanks 2buck for these easy to follow videos. I am sure some fellows will learn from them. The tip of only going about 15 feet on ceilings is a good one unless of course you have 2buck jr wiping right behind you. Many a long ceiling tape has come down on the floor or the head and shoulders of some of us trying to do too much at a time. One thing that still blows me away though is your water measuring devices. (Tim Hortons coffee mugs) Why not use one of your compound tubes instead (its a lot faster). It might not be as precise as I often will go 1/2 a tube or 3/4 a tube depending on the mud. Just a thought.


We always have lots of coffee cups around, just don't use the ones that look like they had YELLOW coffee in them:whistling2:

I'm fussy with the mud mix. I find with certain applications your running, one cup can make a difference in the workability of your mud, even a half a cup can. Also, the 1st one or two cups are the hardest for any batch of mud to absorb/accept. After the mud accepts it's first few cups, you can add 5 or 6 cups at once. I also hope people realize the pictures of the coffee cups are just a visual aid, we don't fill up 10 coffee cups of water, we use one. 2bjr knows his numbers up to ten at least:thumbup:

Plus I'm sure I don't half to explain you get a feel for the mud your using, how it swirls on the top, or bubbles when making a runny batch. When using the same mud all the time too, you get to know your cup count. one cup for bead, 2.5 cups for 10", 4 cups for 12" or skimming, 6 cups for corner flush and so on........

Also, the cp tube just becomes another tool to lug in then. Why become dependent on something that is inaccurate.

Even your hard hat would be better, at acting as a unit of measure....

Just my 2 bucks worth sharky:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Justme and PA rocker arguing about being a right handed or left handed runner on the zook, Reminds me of a Monty Python skit


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> Also, the cp tube just becomes another tool to lug in then. Why become dependent on something that is inaccurate.


You argue like a sophist. :whistling2:

Mark your tube handle. Then it wouldn't be inaccurate.

And I use mine for putting bead on as well. So 'lugging' my 2 lb. tube in isn't so bad to me.



2buckcanuck said:


> Justme and PA rocker arguing about being a right handed or left handed runner on the zook, Reminds me of a Monty Python skit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monty Python Holy Grail Are you suggesting coconuts migrate? - YouTube


Yeah, probably made about as much sense as arguing and getting excited over some whiny overpaid hockey players skating up and down a rink, chasing a puck and each other.

Watching sheep on skates would be more interesting.


----------



## JustMe

JustMe said:


> You argue like a sophist.


A modern day one.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

JustMe said:


> A modern day one.


I had to google that word "sophist"









I like it:thumbsup:

Except no body on this site is paying me for my advice:furious:


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> I had to google that word "sophist"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it:thumbsup:


:thumbsup:

I could dummy down my language, to not seem so much a smart *ss at times, but I figure helping grow vocabularies at times could be alright. 



2buckcanuck said:


> Except no body on this site is paying me for my advice:furious:


I don't know......someone seems to be getting an amount of cheap and free stuff being sent to them. Maybe it's karma going around(?)


----------



## 2buckcanuck

JustMe said:


> I don't know......someone seems to be getting an amount of cheap and free stuff being sent to them. Maybe it's karma going around(?)


----------



## gazman

Thanks again for this thread 2Buck. I tried the zooka this week (epic fail) so I just watched your videos again and will try again, I already picked a few places where I was going wrong. One thing I found out was that the Blueline filler wont fit into the filler nozzle of my TT pump. I will have to rig something up as I cant be bothered with a gooseneck.


----------



## keke

gazman said:


> Thanks again for this thread 2Buck. I tried the zooka this week (epic fail) so I just watched your videos again and will try again, I already picked a few places where I was going wrong. One thing I found out was that the Blueline filler wont fit into the filler nozzle of my TT pump. I will have to rig something up as I cant be bothered with a gooseneck.


good news gaz.if you don't wanna by bothered with the goosenek I will recommend you a goldblatt mud diverter.
this is my pump and you can get the diverter from http://shop.proplaster.com.au/collections/automatic-tools/products/goldlbatt-mud-diverter


----------



## keke

gazman said:


> Thanks again for this thread 2Buck. I tried the zooka this week (epic fail) so I just watched your videos again and will try again, I already picked a few places where I was going wrong.


keep on keeping on and let us know when you succeed so we can celebrate with you(good reason for a beer :yes: ):thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

Thanks Keke, I wont be giving up.:thumbsup: I found the mud divider funny, I got one for Vanman a while ago.


----------



## VANMAN

gazman said:


> Thanks Keke, I wont be giving up.:thumbsup: I found the mud divider funny, I got one for Vanman a while ago.


 Gaz u will b fine its just a little learning!:thumbsup:
If we had thought this through i could have came over for a month and hand delivered it and showed u hands on!! And i could have had a holiday at the same time:thumbup: But that boat is away,but it will b fine:yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Thanks again for this thread 2Buck. I tried the zooka this week (epic fail) so I just watched your videos again and will try again, I already picked a few places where I was going wrong. One thing I found out was that the Blueline filler wont fit into the filler nozzle of my TT pump. I will have to rig something up as I cant be bothered with a gooseneck.


Are you sure it is not just the "O" ring in your pump. If you take the "O" ring out, and the zook can slide in the nozzle of the pump, then that's all you need to do. If not then I don't know..... But you should be able to get packets of "O" rings in any plumbing section of a store:thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

2buckcanuck said:


> Are you sure it is not just the "O" ring in your pump. If you take the "O" ring out, and the zook can slide in the nozzle of the pump, then that's all you need to do. If not then I don't know..... But you should be able to get packets of "O" rings in any plumbing section of a store:thumbsup:


Thats what I first thought, but on closer inspection the filler on the zook is larger than the outlet of the pump.


----------



## VANMAN

gazman said:


> Thats what I first thought, but on closer inspection the filler on the zook is larger than the outlet of the pump.


 Yea gaz there is a dif between the filler valve on say a columbia gun and a blueline gun! The columbia will fill on a blueline gooseneck but a blueline gun wont fill of a columbia gooseneck as its 2 big! So i dont know what pump u use so that is maybe the prob,but i still recommend u get a gooseneck! And by the way if u have a TT,Columbia pump a blueline gooseneck will not b right on that pump! They sit at dif angles!!


----------



## gazman

Can you post pics of the difference.


----------



## VANMAN

gazman said:


> Can you post pics of the difference.


 Gaz what pump do u use?


----------



## gazman

Got a TT.


----------



## VANMAN

gazman said:


> Got a TT.


 This could b a guess but i think if u got a gooseneck fot it u could file the hole that the gun sits in so it would take the filler valve! Its only a plastic part that the gun sits in so should b easy enough done!


----------



## cazna

I thought the blueline gooseneck fits any pump, As already said, The filler on the blueline is bigger than other tapers so it needs its own gooseneck.

I dont see how a diverter can fill it, Filling a zooka off the pump seems silly, Why would you want to be bent over like a half shut pocket knife for?? Goosenecks are easy, (Work smarter not harder, You will wear out) And it gives the zook a storage place for when your not using it, Leaving it on the floor or in corners is a hassel, The mud just runs back down the tube then you need to wind it up againg to use it or you get a dry spot or they fall over and get damaged and there goes your gooser settings etc, (Done that) Trust me gaz, Take your tt pump into the shop and try a tapepro gooseneck on it, Anything else you do will be a right pain in the backside and cause you mega greif.


----------



## Mudstar

2buckcanuck said:


> As I said, I would give basic lessons, for fellow tradesman who were thinking about purchasing a bazooka. They are going to be super basic, for guys who have never held a bazooka in their hands before, or have seen one in action, but want to learn how to run one.
> 
> So I will be trying to make short vids, just a minute or two long, and applying the K.I.S.S method for training. Just trying to explain to the other masters of the zook, that these will be "INSTRUCTIONAL" vids. If any other guys also want to contribute video's, feel free to (PA rocker:whistling2. And of coarse, feel free to chirp in if you think I missed anything......... I think:blink:
> 
> First vid, where to lubricate the zook, and which way to put the tape on.
> Automatic taper lessons - YouTube
> 
> lube up, wheel bushings, front gear, back gear, pin, and most important the cutting chain. We just use 10w 30 motor oil or silicone spray, use what ever you want, don't want this to become a lubricant debate



is that motor oil your using ? :yes:


----------



## Mudstar

2buckcanuck said:


> Well you guys continue to argue whose left or right handed, I will post another vid for those wanting to learn how to run a Bazooka.
> 
> Video #3 HOW TO FILL THE BAZOOKA
> 
> Automatic taper lessons for newbs, filling the Bazooka - YouTube
> 
> Some use a goose neck to fill, well I don't, I find them pointless to own. Some say the goose neck sucks in less air, well I would half to call B.S. on that.:yes:



that s pretty messy looking zooka by my standards


----------



## Square Foot

keke said:


> good news gaz.if you don't wanna by bothered with the goosenek I will recommend you a goldblatt mud diverter.
> this is my pump and you can get the diverter from http://shop.proplaster.com.au/collections/automatic-tools/products/goldlbatt-mud-diverter


Hmm...this used to be a finish pro product. Bought one about 5 or 6 yrs ago....it's buried in my shed somewhere.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

VANMAN said:


> Yea gaz there is a dif between the filler valve on say a columbia gun and a blueline gun! The columbia will fill on a blueline gooseneck but a blueline gun wont fill of a columbia gooseneck as its 2 big! So i dont know what pump u use so that is maybe the prob,but i still recommend u get a gooseneck! And by the way if u have a TT,Columbia pump a blueline gooseneck will not b right on that pump! They sit at dif angles!!


Was thinking today, maybe 2 other solutions might be....

One would be change the valve on the zook, which could be a pain, you might half to modify things, or just get another nozzle. 2 bolts to remove and it's on. Forget what "Cazna the wrong " is saying, a goose neck is a pain in the arse. Unless you own 2 pumps, or one of those 2 way adapter thingies pictured in this thread.

And if it pains you to bend over to fill up a zook, set the bucket up on another bucket, or a mini baker, problem solved:thumbup:


----------



## cazna

Cazna the right :yes: Gooseneck for taping, Box filler for boxing, Too easy, Its just two little nuts, Honestly, How much trouble can two nuts be :blink::blink::blink:............Dont answer that, We already know :whistling2:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

VANMAN said:


> This could b a guess but i think if u got a gooseneck fot it u could file the hole that the gun sits in so it would take the filler valve! Its only a plastic part that the gun sits in so should b easy enough done!


I think a Blueline gooseneck will bolt onto a TT pump, won't it Van.


----------



## VANMAN

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I think a Blueline gooseneck will bolt onto a TT pump, won't it Van.


 Yea i do believe it will bolt on it just wont b straight up and down if u know what i mean? If i could get my lazy drunkin butt out 2 the garage i would dimantle my pumps 2 show u!!!


----------



## harvey randall

2buckcanuck said:


> Video # 6 CEILING TAPES
> 
> automatic taper - ceiling tapes - YouTube


 a man and his art, pleasure watchin ya ole kid


----------



## gazman

Got a question for the bazooka experts on here. On my Tape-Pro (Blueline) the brake is adjustable from none to very strong. How much brake should I use? I know there has to be enough to stop it from spinning backwards, but is there any advantage to running more brake? Thanks in advance (dont worry you will get your proper thanks as well) Gaz.


----------



## Muddauber

You need just enough tention to keep the wheel from spinning back.
Tighter tention can make the gun harder to push,and can cause excessive tape drag,or pull.
Also I like my gun to run as quietly as possible.:yes:


----------



## gazman

Thanks Muddauber :thumbsup:.


----------



## Muddauber

gazman said:


> Thanks Muddauber :thumbsup:.


 
:thumbsup:


----------



## plugger

These little info vids have been sensational! Top work on them 2buck! Very easy to understand and not complicated by 5minutes of rubbish, just quick 1-2mins of usefull info! :thumbsup:

I ran my zook for the first time today after watching these vids over and over, aswell as reading every bit of info i could find on here with reguards to running the zook, only had a couple of flats to run in, but thought even just a few in a mates reno was worth the experiance. Ran a few internals which i pulled back out (Tiled bathroom/no need) i was quite happy with my efforts at first crack!

But one problem i did find, after cutting the tape and then trying to feed the tape back throu, lifting up on the cutter and turning the little wheel thing, id see nothing was coming out only to turn the zook around and see the paper sitting half in the feeding slot? (Dont know the name of the section?) And also at times while lifting on the cutter i could only turn the wheel so far? Id get maybe a quarter turn and that was it. But all in all i was quite chuffed with myself for first attempt, and cleaning out afterwards wasnt as bad as i thought it would be! Although will have to grab a timer/alarm in future, would be livid if i let hot mud set in it! Although a heap of citric acid kept my mind at ease today!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

plugger said:


> These little info vids have been sensational! Top work on them 2buck! Very easy to understand and not complicated by 5minutes of rubbish, just quick 1-2mins of usefull info! :thumbsup:
> 
> I ran my zook for the first time today after watching these vids over and over, aswell as reading every bit of info i could find on here with reguards to running the zook, only had a couple of flats to run in, but thought even just a few in a mates reno was worth the experiance. Ran a few internals which i pulled back out (Tiled bathroom/no need) i was quite happy with my efforts at first crack!
> 
> But one problem i did find, after cutting the tape and then trying to feed the tape back throu, lifting up on the cutter and turning the little wheel thing, id see nothing was coming out only to turn the zook around and see the paper sitting half in the feeding slot? (Dont know the name of the section?) And also at times while lifting on the cutter i could only turn the wheel so far? Id get maybe a quarter turn and that was it. But all in all i was quite chuffed with myself for first attempt, and cleaning out afterwards wasnt as bad as i thought it would be! Although will have to grab a timer/alarm in future, would be livid if i let hot mud set in it! Although a heap of citric acid kept my mind at ease today!


Tape sliding down is easy fix, 2 ways to do it (adjust needle ramp or move needle more forward), second problem requires more thought, guessing dogger pin or loose chain.

Will half to explain later to night, must get arse into work, Since any future vids will half to be called "the one buck gives zook lessons"


----------



## plugger

Since this is your zook vid tutorials thread, maybe a quick vid on moving the needle ramp/pushing the needle forward?

Plus I seen mentioned above Gaz talking about the brake? Unless I've completely missed it I never knew these came with a brake?


----------



## cazna

plugger said:


> Since this is your zook vid tutorials thread, maybe a quick vid on moving the needle ramp/pushing the needle forward?
> 
> Plus I seen mentioned above Gaz talking about the brake? Unless I've completely missed it I never knew these came with a brake?


Just move the control tube up and down and have a look at it, You will see, The brake is the pin and head under the wheel, It stops the wheel turning bakwards, If it did then the cable unwinds and the plunger and mud falls back down the tube then you tape will have no mud on it.............They seem confusing for a start but they are quite simple, Just go for it.........Balls it up and learn, Its the only way to figure it out, Just remember........You Aussies like quick set, If you fill your zooka with it, And dont clean it out in time.......Whats going to happen :whistling2:


----------



## plugger

Nothing teachers better than trail and error, and ive no prooblems loading up and letting rip! How long normally do the cutter blades last? Guess it would be wise to order some in before i need to replace em.. 
And on the quickset, i hate the jargon! Ill run a 60 thru it, but not base 45 without loading up on the citric acid! 
Dont worry mate, i wont be letting anything dry out in my new toy. 
I wouldnt be able to live with my self haha


----------



## gazman

Be careful using citric acid Plugger, it weakens the base. I have been running Easyflow through the zooka for a while now, so far all good. And it gives you all the time in the world.


----------



## plugger

would that not give enough strengh on joints? 

what i invision running was base thru the zook for joins/internals/square set, then im running 2 coats of easyflow. But the further away from base for me the better :thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

plugger said:


> Since this is your zook vid tutorials thread, maybe a quick vid on moving the needle ramp/pushing the needle forward?
> 
> Plus I seen mentioned above Gaz talking about the brake? Unless I've completely missed it I never knew these came with a brake?


Didn't realize we were talking about a new zook, till I seen in a different thread you bought a whole new set of Columbia tools (now I hate you plugger:furious

But anyhow:whistling2:

I suck at the names of the parts to the zook also, so I will use pics. Even though your zook is new, the pin may half to be adjusted a little bit, and were talking millimeters here, since it's straight from the factory.

The picture with the red arrow is the thing I call the RAMP thingamagober. Loosen the screw where the red arrow points, and push the ramp up a millimeter, the ramp thing is slotted.The other method you don't need a picture, look at the pin/needle, and you will see a set screw holds it in. Loosen the set screw, and push the pin forward a tiny bit.

The pic with green arrow is the brake, stops the drive wheel from spinning backwards, which would cause the plunger to drop. something you don't half to worry about, unless you don't hear your zook make a clicking noise. You should be good for 50 houses or more


----------



## keke

plugger said:


> would that not give enough strengh on joints?
> 
> what i invision running was base thru the zook for joins/internals/square set, then im running 2 coats of easyflow. But the further away from base for me the better :thumbup:


all-purpose gives you enough strength and saves your time. base is a pain in the a$$ for automatic tools and if you're concern with all-purpose try RediBase from Boral :thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

Hey 2Buck, is that one of Ricks creaser wheels on your lady? If so what is your opinion? PT is hooking me up with one so I am looking forward to giving it a go.


----------



## KiwiInNorway

2buckcanuck said:


> Didn't realize we were talking about a new zook, till I seen in a different thread you bought a whole new set of Columbia tools (now I hate you plugger:furious
> 
> But anyhow:whistling2:
> 
> I suck at the names of the parts to the zook also, so I will use pics. Even though your zook is new, the pin may half to be adjusted a little bit, and were talking millimeters here, since it's straight from the factory.
> 
> The picture with the red arrow is the thing I call the RAMP thingamagober. Loosen the screw where the red arrow points, and push the ramp up a millimeter, the ramp thing is slotted.The other method you don't need a picture, look at the pin/needle, and you will see a set screw holds it in. Loosen the set screw, and push the pin forward a tiny bit.
> 
> The pic with green arrow is the brake, stops the drive wheel from spinning backwards, which would cause the plunger to drop. something you don't half to worry about, unless you don't hear your zook make a clicking noise. You should be good for 50 houses or more


hey 2buck,

I also have a brand new Columbia :whistling2:. Noticed that it was delivering a 150mm dry patch after the first 50mm of "wet" tape. Had a fiddle with the brake yesterday to try and resolve the problem. Think it might have been that I was standing it in the corner when I was wiping down, but the problem didn't completely disappear when I stopped that mischief. So I ramped up the brake and it seemed to get a bit better on my practice wall. Will have to see when I run the next ceiling - that seems to be where the problem is worst.


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Tape sliding down is easy fix, 2 ways to do it (adjust needle ramp or move needle more forward), second problem requires more thought, guessing dogger pin or loose chain.
> 
> Will half to explain later to night, must get arse into work, Since any future vids will half to be called "the one buck gives zook lessons"


 You need to hit a few more deer....


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Will half to explain later to night, must get arse into work, *Since any future vids will half to be called "the one buck gives zook lessons"*


Whats happened chook? has 2bjr left you again?


----------



## gazman

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I think a Blueline gooseneck will bolt onto a TT pump, won't it Van.


I forgot to come back to this. Yes the Blueline gooseneck will bolt on to a TT pump, and yes it does work.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Hey 2Buck, is that one of Ricks creaser wheels on your lady? If so what is your opinion? PT is hooking me up with one so I am looking forward to giving it a go.


Yep, it's main purpose is to ride over gaps in the angles, and it does. With the standard style, the finger would push the tape into the gap, and, when you started a tape where there was a gap, your tape would fall/not hold, not so with the 3 point creaser wheel.

For tape drag, it helps a bit, maybe aids 10% more. Only complaint I had, was to push/drag a tape left or right a tiny bit, but Rhardman got mad at me last time I said that, so lets no go there...



KiwiInNorway said:


> hey 2buck,
> 
> I also have a brand new Columbia :whistling2:. Noticed that it was delivering a 150mm dry patch after the first 50mm of "wet" tape. Had a fiddle with the brake yesterday to try and resolve the problem. Think it might have been that I was standing it in the corner when I was wiping down, but the problem didn't completely disappear when I stopped that mischief. So I ramped up the brake and it seemed to get a bit better on my practice wall. Will have to see when I run the next ceiling - that seems to be where the problem is worst.


What are those little mm letters after your #'s

If your saying you get a dry spot about the length of a sheeps tail when you first start your tape, that is normal (4"). That's why you start wiping and rolling tapes from the middle first.

That's where I say some fibafuse would be good for new people on the zook, it will show where they appear, so you learn how to work your way around them, which is too much typing to explain how. (others can chip in and answer, Just too tired to type right now)




Kiwiman said:


> Whats happened chook? has 2bjr left you again?


Yep, hilly billy crack claims another victim, A long with $2000 of my coin that he carried with him into a drug deal, then gets robbed:furious:

There shall be no more talk of level 5 work, or 2buckjr:whistling2:


----------



## Newagestucco

KiwiInNorway said:


> hey 2buck,
> 
> I also have a brand new Columbia :whistling2:. Noticed that it was delivering a 150mm dry patch after the first 50mm of "wet" tape. Had a fiddle with the brake yesterday to try and resolve the problem. Think it might have been that I was standing it in the corner when I was wiping down, but the problem didn't completely disappear when I stopped that mischief. So I ramped up the brake and it seemed to get a bit better on my practice wall. Will have to see when I run the next ceiling - that seems to be where the problem is worst.


 
like 2 buck says you have to no your zook 
then your going to notice were it happens 
usually when you start wiping from the middle to the ends
It will catch this problem , but i did notice when I due
the top angle is the constant problem , within the first 8inch
now i just use my mudrunner and go around and spot these areas 
before i run the zook, real easy no more issues

the fibafuse users dont have that issue im just not totaly sold on it


----------



## moore

It's sad to hear that about BJ.


----------



## Newagestucco

moore said:


> It's sad to hear that about BJ.


 Its sad for 2buck 
feel for him more

all the time and $ he invested inn 2bjr 

I know how it is you train theses young guys
soon as they think ,they no it all ,they run to your compatator
they go work cheaper, then they call you when they run out of work
That happens fast they party all the time all drug up

and most of the time you due take them back 
because they are real good workers and part of your crew
but they sure fu%? things up sometime


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Newagestucco said:


> Its sad for 2buck
> feel for him more
> 
> all the time and $ he invested inn 2bjr
> 
> I know how it is you train theses young guys
> soon as they think ,they no it all ,they run to your compatator
> they go work cheaper, then they call you when they run out of work
> That happens fast they party all the time all drug up
> 
> and most of the time you due take them back
> because they are real good workers and part of your crew
> but they sure fu%? things up sometime


Your right, should be feeling for me, Not 2bjr









2bjr is one of those people who don't know how far he has to fall to hit bottom, when he does reach the bottom, he keeps bouncing a long On his arse!!!

Guess some of this should not be said on a open forum(but F_ck him:furious,,, We all have our addictions, but 2bjr's were/are severe. Year ago he almost overdosed , he took 5!!!!!,80mg oxyies, firemen brought him back to life, yet he still continued to use. I forced him into rehab, told him no job if he didn't, so he went...

Things were ok for a bit, but he began to have health issues with his head (major headaches), Doctor's were putting him on all types of scripts, and were even thinking brain cancer at one point. Long story short, just think he was trying to scam the system for drugs. Yes he had headaches, but I also feel he was milking them a lot..... Bottom line, he was handed a rope to help pull himself back up, but he chose to hang himself with it Instead.

He's offering to come in and work for free to pay me back, but he will just arse kiss to come back,,, but here's the problem......

I don't know if it's worth employing a second guy anymore???

I'm in a 3 story student residence right now, we were both suppose to be doing it. Started top floor on Good Friday, just sanded out main floor today, start taping out basement floor tomorrow. So I got around 12,000 sq ft finished in 9 days, and that money is all mine!!!

I could see if your a small independent (Moore) needing a second guy, or if your doing a highrise or something. But if your a sub-trade like me, working for a large drywall company, then why? You need houses 15 to 20 sq per week for 2 guys, which don't always happen. The DWC loves a 2 man crew, they get a 7 to 10 thousand sq house done real fast, but it's not good for the 2 man crew.....

Even my DWC said to me today "So your going to hire another guy right",, and I said "NO!!",, and he was like "Why to "F" not???.... all our 2 man crews are slowly splitting up, pay is not high enough to support another guy.


----------



## ARI

I hear ya 2buck nowadays just not enough money or work to support a good 2 man crew. I hire a guy every now and then on the bigger jobs, but 98% of the time its just me


----------



## plugger

Righto 2buck I've a new problem I encounter today! My zook is full. But so god damn hard to wind the wheel thingy and bring the tape out? Also how the eff do I run square set? That killed me today! Or maybe because it was so hard for paper to come out was the problem.. The first few walls where ok! 

Internals yesterday thou was a breeze.. Got them down pat!!


----------



## keke

plugger said:


> Righto 2buck I've a new problem I encounter today! My zook is full. But so god damn hard to wind the wheel thingy and bring the tape out? Also how the eff do I run square set? That killed me today! Or maybe because it was so hard for paper to come out was the problem.. The first few walls where ok!
> 
> Internals yesterday thou was a breeze.. Got them down pat!!


Firstly, quit basecoat and start using all-purpose and after that you can come on my job and I'll show you


----------



## plugger

Base coat got given the ass after my first trail run mate! Ezy-flow all the way for me now! Base first coat bead and that's the only time ill use it now..


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## cazna

plugger said:


> Righto 2buck I've a new problem I encounter today! My zook is full. But so god damn hard to wind the wheel thingy and bring the tape out? Also how the eff do I run square set? That killed me today! Or maybe because it was so hard for paper to come out was the problem.. The first few walls where ok!
> 
> Internals yesterday thou was a breeze.. Got them down pat!!


The mud has to pour, Like a thick batter mix, Took me a while to get my head round that as well, I had a lot of greif but got there in the end.


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## plugger

cazna said:


> The mud has to pour, Like a thick batter mix, Took me a while to get my head round that as well, I had a lot of greif but got there in the end.


I rang Gaz today and he got me thru! I think leaving the lid open seems to dry out the easy flow a little thus thickening it up.. Quick spray with the lanox and a dump in a bucket of water after every room kept me moving smoothly!

Still the advice just dive in and have a crack has done me well.. Almost pulled the homax out this morning to finish off but stuck with the zook! Every bit of practice helps!


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## cazna

Actually yes, I had found that too, You mix some and start, Goes ok for the first hr then it slowly gets a little harder and harder to run............But you have mixed it up already so it should be good.........So you carry on...............Then realise oh no, The muds to thick and im fighting it WTF i mixed it already?????????

Do you know what a masher is, They can be good, Everytime you fill the zook just mash the mud up a little....check it out make sure its still flowing, I have one but tend to use a battery drill and a paint mixer, Give a plunge like a masher, or add some water and mix it in.

If its a hot day then yes, It seems the mud does stiffen up again so now i sort of mix it slightly to thin, Then after an hr or so it comes right...............If you pre fill a lot, And use fuse on flats its surprising just how thin the zooka mud can be, It only has to stuck it there.

And remember, Boxing mud is thicker...........You will find out why


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## gazman

I have a bucket lid that I have cut a piece out of so as it goes around the pump. That way the mud does not dry out too much.


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## keke

To keep the mud thin just pour some water on top without mixing; in this way you avoid the mud to dry and keep it thin 
That's my way


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## gazman

keke said:


> To keep the mud thin just pour some water on top without mixing; in this way you avoid the mud to dry and keep it thin
> That's my way



Thats all well and good, but what happens when you want to add more mud to the bucket? Do you have to add more water?


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## cazna

gazman said:


> Thats all well and good, but what happens when you want to add more mud to the bucket? Do you have to add more water?


I tryed it, You have to watch you dont suck it into the pump, Then you add more mud and it tends to leave a slurry to suck up, But it did keep the sides of the bucket clean........ish. I just have a rubber spatula on stand by, Or a damp rag over the bucket/pump etc.


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## plugger

After today my thought was just leave water sit on top without mixing in, but when the bucket starts to run empty i change buckets to fit the pump in the full bucket and empty the remainder.. not adding to the bucket that im already using.

Either way im still having bloody fun running the zook. :thumbup:


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## gazman

Not a good idea with the zooka, you will can get air in the pump.


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## plugger

urgh.


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## gazman

Air in your pump = dry spots on your tapes.


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## plugger

dry spots in tapes = looks good from my place :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

plugger said:


> After today my thought was just leave water sit on top without mixing in, but when the bucket starts to run empty i change buckets to fit the pump in the full bucket and empty the remainder.. not adding to the bucket that im already using.
> 
> Either way im still having bloody fun running the zook. :thumbup:


Gazzy is right, always leave you pump in one bucket and don't pull it out,,, but if you must, prime your pump 5x, on the fourth pump, the air bubble will come out. Actually, you should do this every time when you 1st go to use your pump.(prime your pump)

Also, stiffer mud sits on the sides of the bucket, I never scrap down the sides of bucket when zook mud is in use. Plus mud is designed to evapourate the water faster, so over time your mix will temper more, so a cover will help also....

Or you could get your arse in high gear, work faster, and get the mud on the wall Plugger:yes::whistling2:


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## Mudstar

2buckcanuck said:


> I don't know if it's worth employing a second guy anymore???
> 
> I'm in a 3 story student residence right now, we were both suppose to be doing it. Started top floor on Good Friday, just sanded out main floor today, start taping out basement floor tomorrow. So I got around 12,000 sq ft finished in 9 days, and that money is all mine!!!
> 
> The DWC loves a 2 man crew, they get a 7 to 10 thousand sq house done real fast, but it's not good for the 2 man crew.....
> 
> Even my DWC said to me today "So your going to hire another guy right",, and I said "NO!!",, and he was like "Why to "F" not???.... all our 2 man crews are slowly splitting up, pay is not high enough to support another guy.


You figured it out grasshopper. Now that you can walk the rice paper without any signs of mud left behind. You have been granted a new name, you are now 5buck.:yes:


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## plugger

2buckcanuck said:


> Gazzy is right, always leave you pump in one bucket and don't pull it out,,, but if you must, prime your pump 5x, on the fourth pump, the air bubble will come out. Actually, you should do this every time when you 1st go to use your pump.(prime your pump)
> 
> Also, stiffer mud sits on the sides of the bucket, I never scrap down the sides of bucket when zook mud is in use. Plus mud is designed to evapourate the water faster, so over time your mix will temper more, so a cover will help also....
> 
> Or you could get your arse in high gear, work faster, and get the mud on the wall Plugger:yes::whistling2:


I do prime the pump before loading, i figured that out on my own:thumbsup:

And now you mention that stiffer muds stick to the side i can recall it getting thicker as i was scraping the sides down.. I think i would be wasting abit too much thou if i wasnt going to be using it!


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## RockPaperSlitter

I watched 2buck's ceiling clip, and I think he mentioned something important by saying to notice the angle of the bazooka... do you run on one wheel or two on ceiling flats? I get drip out with my pancake batter and would like less slop on the floor.


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## cazna

RockPaperSlitter said:


> I watched 2buck's ceiling clip, and I think he mentioned something important by saying to notice the angle of the bazooka... do you run on one wheel or two on ceiling flats? I get drip out with my pancake batter and would like less slop on the floor.


One wheel, Not two.


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## keke

cazna said:


> One wheel, Not two.


or 2 if you want the mud to follow in your head


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## cazna

keke said:


> or 2 if you want the mud to follow in your head


Or your eye, Yep, Done that


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## plugger

For the 2nd time my zook got a run out today! And first run with the FibaFuse!

After last i had adjusted my pin to move in a little more, but seems i went to far as with the FF it was just ripping and not running up and down smoothly. So i panicked, mind went blank, i wanted to throw it out the window! Then a sense of calm came over me, 2bucks advice of 'just loosen the damn screw and move the pin ya stupid aussie whos never ran a zook'! I calmed down, moved the pin while on the job, and was bloody flying afterwards! 

If i had never read this thread or headed advice 2buck gave, it would be in peices atm.. Remain calm, back to basics, get the job done!


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## mld

You are one funny dude, Plugger! I admire your drive.:thumbsup:


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## plugger

mld said:


> You are one funny dude, Plugger! I admire your drive.:thumbsup:


Haha think i need to stay off here while im on the drink! First time i ever worked overtime on a Friday, and was hammered when i got home and walked in the door! Too many VBs on the trip home!:yes:


On a side note, how do i adjust the wheel that holds the paper? Quite often the FifbaFuse was spinning out too much..


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## saskataper

plugger said:


> Haha think i need to stay off here while im on the drink! First time i ever worked overtime on a Friday, and was hammered when i got home and walked in the door! Too many VBs on the trip home!:yes:
> 
> On a side note, how do i adjust the wheel that holds the paper? Quite often the FifbaFuse was spinning out too much..


That just happens sometimes I don't find it a big problem but I suppose you could put a shim behind the wheel to put some drag on it, a thin piece of cardboard maybe.


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## plugger

saskataper said:


> That just happens sometimes I don't find it a big problem but I suppose you could put a shim behind the wheel to put some drag on it, a thin piece of cardboard maybe.


I see the shim on a roll mentioned round here.. What the hell is it ?!


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## VANMAN

plugger said:


> Haha think i need to stay off here while im on the drink! First time i ever worked overtime on a Friday, and was hammered when i got home and walked in the door! Too many VBs on the trip home!:yes:
> 
> 
> On a side note, how do i adjust the wheel that holds the paper? Quite often the FifbaFuse was spinning out too much..


Just pull the tape back off the spool its on so that it touches the bar that stops the spool coming off!If u know what i mean? Sorry just out of bed and cant think straight yet!:blink: Problem solved!!:thumbsup:


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## plugger

VANMAN said:


> Just pull the tape back off the spool its on so that it touches the bar that stops the spool coming off!If u know what i mean? Sorry just out of bed and cant think straight yet!:blink: Problem solved!!:thumbsup:


I know exactly what you mean! Cheers:drink:


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## gazman

Any tips to reduce tape drag in the angles? Flats are great but on the angles I am getting up to two or three inches on eight foot uprights.


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## Mountain Man

gazman said:


> Any tips to reduce tape drag in the angles? Flats are great but on the angles I am getting up to two or three inches on eight foot uprights.


You have to figure in the amount of drag and then start with that much of a tail, (extra tape)and then let it drag into place!! I also get a lot less drag if I'm running the tube from right to left. I used to run it left to right but switched up when I noticed I got less drag the other way.


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## fr8train

if you add water to the top of the mud to keep it from drying out, when time to refill the bucket, just dump the mud in. it will push the water out of the way.


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## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Any tips to reduce tape drag in the angles? Flats are great but on the angles I am getting up to two or three inches on eight foot uprights.


I'm going to go out on a Limb and say it's your mud mix:yes:

It should be so runny that,,,,,, if you knocked your bucket of mud over, all the mud would pour out all over the floor like water:yes:

One taper many years ago got his point across to me by making the mud so runny, it was dripping down the walls. We spent more time cleaning all the blobs of mud running down the walls. But I got his point,,,,,, The tapes were dragging less. The more water added, it makes the mud act more like a suction cup.

Better in the beginning to make the mud more runny than you think it should be. As time goes on, and you gain more experience on the zook, you will tone back on the water.

You can ask a new member on this site, who I was giving tips on how to run his zook last week. He would mix his mud, and say it was really runny, and I would say it needed 4 or 5 more cups of water. And he would be going WTF


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## gazman

Bump.
This thread should be a sticky


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## Bazooka-Joe

2buckcanuck said:


> I'm going to go out on a Limb and say it's your mud mix:yes:
> 
> It should be so runny that,,,,,, if you knocked your bucket of mud over, all the mud would pour out all over the floor like water:yes:
> 
> One taper many years ago got his point across to me by making the mud so runny, it was dripping down the walls. We spent more time cleaning all the blobs of mud running down the walls. But I got his point,,,,,, The tapes were dragging less. The more water added, it makes the mud act more like a suction cup.
> 
> Better in the beginning to make the mud more runny than you think it should be. As time goes on, and you gain more experience on the zook, you will tone back on the water.
> 
> You can ask a new member on this site, who I was giving tips on how to run his zook last week. He would mix his mud, and say it was really runny, and I would say it needed 4 or 5 more cups of water. And he would be going WTF


less pull on the string


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## prjwebb

It will be my first time running a bazooka this week. Fingers crossed 2buck's tips and videos will get me through!!!


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## JustMe

prjwebb said:


> It will be my first time running a bazooka this week. Fingers crossed 2buck's tips and videos will get me through!!!


Columbia's tool operating manual have helped some as well: https://system.netsuite.com/core/me...P&vid=RkxdO6TgAfZec4Y7&cktime=123044&gc=clear


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## prjwebb

Thanks. This forum has been helpful. I've searched and read everything I can find to prepare myself. It should be delivered today so will be good to get my hands on it and hopefully everything will make sense. 
Thanks again!!!!


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## mld

Bump again.


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## jeepin270

Great thread , anyone else have any pointers on doing angles? Why can't I get the tape to stay up in the corner until I get the crease wheel up. I am frustrated as hell


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## gazman

Sounds like you are starting with too much tag.


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## fr8train

Really cram that tape hard into the 3 way


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## cazna

fr8train said:


> Really cram that tape hard into the 3 way


 And into the behind wall, That's a 2buck trick, stick an inch of mudded tape onto the behind wall real good with the creaser pushing the zook back then run it forward, The drag takes it up.


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## endo_alley

When cleaning the inside of bazooka after taping, I always clean my pump out first. Then I pump water into the empty (of wet mud) bazooka. I lay the bazooka with the head resting on top of an empty bucket and the bottom of the tube on the ground. With the valve partially open, I then wind up the cable; letting the dirty water empty out. I refill the tube and repeat this process until the bazooka is internally clean.


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## fr8train

endo_alley said:


> When cleaning the inside of bazooka after taping, I always clean my pump out first. Then I pump water into the empty (of wet mud) bazooka. I lay the bazooka with the head resting on top of an empty bucket and the bottom of the tube on the ground. With the valve partially open, I then wind up the cable; letting the dirty water empty out. I refill the tube and repeat this process until the bazooka is internally clean.


Making more work for yourself. Empty the pump, put it in a bucket of water with the gooseneck in an empty bucket. Put taper on gooseneck like you're going to fill it BUT with the gate in the open/run position. Pump the bucket of water through it. Cleans inside of pump and taper at the same time


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## jeepin270

Today was my second attempt, I am happy to say I did a little bit better. One problem for me is that I only get to run angles. 90% of contractors here in maine want mesh and durabond. The next house I do the contractor told me I could paper whole house, I still haven't ran zook on a flat. Today one of my issues was that the tape would slide down jus enough that it would make it a pain to roll, I had to get on a ladder and push it up so it was square this was mainly on the really long runs.


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## fr8train

jeepin270 said:


> Today was my second attempt, I am happy to say I did a little bit better. One problem for me is that I only get to run angles. 90% of contractors here in maine want mesh and durabond. The next house I do the contractor told me I could paper whole house, I still haven't ran zook on a flat. Today one of my issues was that the tape would slide down jus enough that it would make it a pain to roll, I had to get on a ladder and push it up so it was square this was mainly on the really long runs.


You have your back elbow to high. Drop it down a bit. Too low, you'll run towards the ceiling side, too high you run more on the wall. Creasing well helps, you can almost get the two sides of the tape to touch if you crease it hard enough. This helps keep the head in line.


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## VANMAN

endo_alley said:


> When cleaning the inside of bazooka after taping, I always clean my pump out first. Then I pump water into the empty (of wet mud) bazooka. I lay the bazooka with the head resting on top of an empty bucket and the bottom of the tube on the ground. With the valve partially open, I then wind up the cable; letting the dirty water empty out. I refill the tube and repeat this process until the bazooka is internally clean.


I never put water through the gun! Or clean out my pumps
Never seen the need for it but I have an extra long brush to give the tube a clean when I remember to!:thumbsup:


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## jeepin270

So does anyone know what happened to Mr 2buckcannuck?


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## mld

He got sucked into the deep dark realm of online gaming.


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## endo_alley

fr8train said:


> Making more work for yourself. Empty the pump, put it in a bucket of water with the gooseneck in an empty bucket. Put taper on gooseneck like you're going to fill it BUT with the gate in the open/run position. Pump the bucket of water through it. Cleans inside of pump and taper at the same time


This is how I described my cleaning method in a post a long time ago. 

When you can't get to a hose to clean the bazooka you can do so in a bucket of water. Clean the outside of the pump and taper with water and a brush. Put the pump in a full bucket of clean water, and the gooseneck in another bucket that is empty. Run water through the pump to clean out the mud. With the back of the gun on the floor, and the head of the taper over a taping mud bucket, open the "valve handle" a little bit. But make sure it is still depressing the "push rod assembly" to disengage the "drive dog". (Funny names that tapetech uses). Now if you turn the "drive dog" it will wind up the cable and thus pull up the "plunger", and empty out the mud from the taper. While keeping the gooseneck in a second bucket, you can now refill the taper with clean water and repeat the process of emptying the barrel of the taper. Do this a couple of times and it will come out fairly clean. You may have to shake the head of the taper in a bucket of water a couple of times to get the last drop of mud out. Then close the "valve handle" to button things up.


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## Bazooka-Joe

jeepin270 said:


> So does anyone know what happened to Mr 2buckcannuck?


he said he got sick of his job and having to talk about Tape n drove him crazy being on the forum...

I feel it too, as you get older and the garbage you put up with it gets to you:blink:


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## fr8train

Any members from the Detroit area? You can make a ~2 hr drive to Glencoe, ON, CA and drag him kicking and screaming away from the video games!


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## Mr.Brightstar

I bet he got married again. 


️http://youtu.be/Fb2OdLICjFk


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## jeepin270

Today was my first day running 9ft angles, it was definitely a challenge. My biggest issue is just starting out, I always end up dragging the tape out of the corner like 4in and then I am trying to compensate on the other end. I end up having to go around an put little 2 or 3in pieces of tape in top angles. I ran this whole house with paper, other than some really long flats on ceilings. Anyone else jus starting to run the zook?


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## cazna

jeepin270 said:


> Today was my first day running 9ft angles, it was definitely a challenge. My biggest issue is just starting out, I always end up dragging the tape out of the corner like 4in and then I am trying to compensate on the other end. I end up having to go around an put little 2 or 3in pieces of tape in top angles. I ran this whole house with paper, other than some really long flats on ceilings. Anyone else jus starting to run the zook?


 Im the same running a zook sometimes, Its not easy, Try and over hang some tape and stick to the opposite wall, Practice that.


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## Sweendog87

Just a thought Pull some tape out like 10 to 15 inches and push into the corner with the side of your boot to hold tape there and then run it we have to do it on internals and vertical flats with the mud box might do the same for you with the zook might not work but maybe give it a go


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## gazman

Won't work Sween, he is talking about the square set angles. If he can get his boot up that high he needs to change his job.


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## cazna

gazman said:


> Won't work Sween, he is talking about the square set angles. If he can get his boot up that high he needs to change his job.


 Haha, Im all good doing uprights, Sometimes the square sets get me but getting much better, Lack of practice. How often are you getting a go at them Gaz with all your coving?

Sometimes I got my helper to hold it in the corner, Just run a little out, he jumped on a bucket and held it then I ran it out..........Well hes standing there doing naff all anyway :whistling2:


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## gazman

We dont do square set very often most of our stuff is cove. We have had three large homes in the past 6 months that were square set, so I get a little practice. Paper is a pain and drags, but fiba fuse thats another story. So wherever possible I use fuse.:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

jeepin270 said:


> Today was my first day running 9ft angles, it was definitely a challenge. My biggest issue is just starting out, I always end up dragging the tape out of the corner like 4in and then I am trying to compensate on the other end. I end up having to go around an put little 2 or 3in pieces of tape in top angles. I ran this whole house with paper, other than some really long flats on ceilings. Anyone else jus starting to run the zook?


The best way if ur getting lots of drag is start with a tab a couple inches long and if it still short then cut the tape when the gun hits the wall not before!
Then just go back and pull the tape back,It will b a time saver rather than going round putting in little bits of tape!:thumbsup:
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Sometimes I can't get the f*ckers to run right then the next they can't b more perfect!
I have seen me with a pair of scissors in my pocket and just make them long and cut of the ends if need b but not often I need to!


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## Sweendog87

gazman said:


> Won't work Sween, he is talking about the square set angles. If he can get his boot up that high he needs to change his job.


Of course well when we do square set one holds the tape ones runs mud box and other rolls need to get flushing so we don't have to do it by hand that the only slow part


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## endo_alley

jeepin270 said:


> Today was my first day running 9ft angles, it was definitely a challenge. My biggest issue is just starting out, I always end up dragging the tape out of the corner like 4in and then I am trying to compensate on the other end. I end up having to go around an put little 2 or 3in pieces of tape in top angles. I ran this whole house with paper, other than some really long flats on ceilings. Anyone else jus starting to run the zook?


 Start with a slightly longer advance of the tape before you begin the horizontal angle. But then it may want to fall. So after the cut, you may have to get back quickly, and push the start of the tape back into the angle with the creaser wheel. When I do 10 foot horizontal angles working off the off the floor I will sometimes set an upside down bucket three feet out from where I start. And another three feet out from where I end with my cut. I get pretty fast at moving the buckets and setting up for the next angle. People will make fun of you. (Only 5' 7") If you are having trouble with standard 9' angles, wait till you get in a closet and do the angle over the door. Those separate the men from the boys.


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## fr8train

endo_alley said:


> Start with a slightly longer advance of the tape before you begin the horizontal angle. But then it may want to fall. So after the cut, you may have to get back quickly, and push the start of the tape back into the angle with the creaser wheel. When I do 10 foot horizontal angles working off the off the floor I will sometimes set an upside down bucket three feet out from where I start. And another three feet out from where I end with my cut. I get pretty fast at moving the buckets and setting up for the next angle. People will make fun of you. (Only 5' 7") If you are having trouble with standard 9' angles, wait till you get in a closet and do the angle over the door. Those separate the men from the boys.


Why fight it? Run it on the ceiling, then push it into the angle. If it's long enough, once you get out of the 3 way far enough you can roll the taper into the angle.


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## mld

When I first started running the zook in internals, I would start in the middle of the horizontal and go one way, roll and glaze, than the other way, till and glaze. Took longer but really gave me a feel for how to run without worrying about starting in the three way. 
I have to add that I've never had a problem running either way with the zook though.


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## endo_alley

I usually start those closet horizontals over the doors, just barely on the ceiling for about a foot, then move the wheel and creaser into the middle of the angle to finish the angle off. After it is cut, I use the creaser to push that first foot or so of tape into the angle nice and pretty. That way I don't have to touch the wet tape with my hands.


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## Ladrywall

endo_alley said:


> Start with a slightly longer advance of the tape before you begin the horizontal angle. But then it may want to fall. So after the cut, you may have to get back quickly, and push the start of the tape back into the angle with the creaser wheel. When I do 10 foot horizontal angles working off the off the floor I will sometimes set an upside down bucket three feet out from where I start. And another three feet out from where I end with my cut. I get pretty fast at moving the buckets and setting up for the next angle. People will make fun of you. (Only 5' 7") If you are having trouble with standard 9' angles, wait till you get in a closet and do the angle over the door. Those separate the men from the boys.


How do you do 10 ft top corners off the floor? I'm 6'2 and don't think i could do them, never tried though. Not sayin you can't just wondering how, longer zook?


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## fr8train

That's a good question. I'm 6'2" myself, I can run 9' angles from the floor in a pinch, but that's Hell on the shoulders. 10' I wouldn't even try, the tape would all be on the ceiling side.


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## gazman

Checking out a few of the older threads on here. This would have to be my favorite, classic 2Buck.


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## moore

fr8train said:


> That's a good question. I'm 6'2" myself, I can run 9' angles from the floor in a pinch, but that's Hell on the shoulders. 10' I wouldn't even try, the tape would all be on the ceiling side.


Take care of those shoulders . They dont last forever . Not in this trade .


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## gazman

moore said:


> Take care of those shoulders . They dont last forever . Not in this trade .



Hows it going Rick?


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## moore

gazman said:


> Hows it going Rick?


Its going. Everything hurts . But im still kicking.


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## gazman

moore said:


> Its going. Everything hurts . But im still kicking.





Sound like me


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