# Angle head combo?



## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

I've found a couple of threads on angle head combos on here but they're buried pretty far back, maybe some of you guys have switched up your programs since then.

I'm about to buy a full set of tools. The only auto tool I have right now is a 3" angle head (see avatar ). After I get my set I want to be running two different size angle heads but I'm not sure what's going to work out better. Do I get a 2 1/2" head and run it when I'm taping then follow with the 3"... or tape with the 3" then follow with a 3 1/2"? 

I've seen some of you guys on here running big then small, but I think I'll stick with small then big. I use AP for taping angles then finish coat with Lite Blue or +3. Having 1/2" of AP on both sides of my angles if I run big to small sounds like a pain to sand versus sanding +3! :blink: But then again I've never tried it... so I'm open to any advice.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

theres as million varibles here.

are you planning on a corner-box or a mudrunner???

the sanding is no big deal either way, I know folks worry about it, but it ain't

mixing two types of mud together is a way bigger "issue" than what size anglehead you use,,,(just had to throw that in there)

What are your competitors using,,, the reason for that is,,,,, if you live in the land of the dreaded HAND FINISHER, your GC is gonna want to see mud spread 1/2 across the board,,,,, not nessacary,,,, but expected,,,,kinda like skimming with a 12",,over a 5 1/2" bevel.

See what I mean,,,, what are YOU wanting to do????????


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

I have a 2.5, 3, 3.5 and 4" and have changed up my method many times. As long as your product comes out good, it really doesn't matter what is used first.

I agree with the compounds used and sanding comment above.


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> theres as million varibles here.
> 
> are you planning on a corner-box or a mudrunner???
> 
> ...


Right now I run a donut roller and then an angle head. I haven't ran an angle box in forever, I think I need to give it a second chance already!

No hand finishers around here that I've seen, the few crews I know have been using the auto tools for 10-15 years now at least. The contractor that I'm calling here soon isn't picky about how _exactly_ we do it... as long as it looks good and it's done on time.

"not nessacary,,,, but expected,,,,kinda like skimming with a 12",,over a 5 1/2" bevel." I've been going back and forth about that lately. Not to hijack my own thread here (so I will anyways... ) Why exactly did auto tool crews shift from 7"/10" to 10"/12" anyway? I know we did, this was 10-15 years ago. And we did it because the other crew in town did it, we tried it and we liked it. Was it just because a 10" box went farther than the 7" did on the first coat? We were running TT then, there wasn't a Fatboy around, maybe that was why. Did the GCs see wider flats and just assume that they were "better", then that was the standard from then on? I can see it being a little easier to hide bad shoulders, but if they're that bad they need busted out anyway.

Flat is flat, right? I've been thinking about getting an 8" Fatboy and a 10" regular box in that full set. I'd 1st coat flats with the 8", and probably go back and split the butts with the 10".

Still not sure about the angles. I've never ran a head as small as 2 1/2" when taping but I'd like to try it. As long as the roller doesn't leave too much mud behind for it to handle without it getting sloppy. I'll end up with one or the other then switch it up and experiment.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Why skim with a 10 box?
The bevel is 5 1/2 ..just block coat with a 6'' knife and skim out with an 8 box..


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

moore said:


> Why skim with a 10 box?
> The bevel is 5 1/2 ..just block coat with a 6'' knife and skim out with an 8 box..


 On your flats you probably could get away with an 8" finish, butts on the other hand?? A small box will flatten a butt better than a wide box ( 8" vs 10") IMO. We have always used a 2" then 3" head to finish angles and no complaints. The 12" box only gets used on level 5 ( smoothwall). I didnt see everyone switch over to 10 12 as much as some but alot of the residential guys use them.


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

A couple of things I forgot, I'm talking about residential jobs and the walls are always smooth around here. Ceilings in houses under $300,000 or so get a standard stomp texture, over that usually get stomp then knockdown. Smooth ceilings are rare. Closets that aren't walk-ins get rolled on the walls but not stomped, stomped ceilings... same with garages. Metal bead put on by the hangers. I swear after reading you guys I think we're stuck in 1988 around here. 

First coating with a 6  then finish boxing with an 8 :blink: ?? Seems a tad bit small, even back in 1988 :jester: Damn, if taking just 2 inches off the boxes sounds THAT bad then maybe I'll just stick with a 10-12!


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

I've never paid attention to how wide an off angle really is, just ran an angle head above them and hand coated them. Will a 2" angle head catch those little [email protected]#kers?


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I'd at least go with a 2.5" to tape, then a 3".
With a 2.5" at least you're filling the majority of your bevel. (unless it's certainteed sh!t)
But like everyone's been saying, there's so many possibilities that it's entirely up to you. See what works for you.

I personally use a flusher to wipe my tapes then use my angle head for my final coat. I find that sometimes the angle heads are too tight, and don't leave enough mud, it's happened in the past where myself or one of my guys will sand just a little too much and expose a bit of tape.

With a flusher it loads the corner pretty heavy on the first pass, it shrinks back a bit as it dries, then I give it a tight skim with my angle head. Done and done. But that's just what works for me.

I'd say if you get a 2.5" and a 3" you're set. Then you can try small to big or big to small and see how you like it.

Goodluck Rick. 
Let me know how it goes.


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

A 2 1/2" to tape then a 3" to finish is what I've been leaning towards, just seeing if anyone has any experience against doing that or preference for other sizes. :thumbsup:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

br549 said:


> A 2 1/2" to tape then a 3" to finish is what I've been leaning towards, just seeing if anyone has any experience against doing that or preference for other sizes. :thumbsup:


Before I switched it up to using flushers first, I was just running my 3" twice. That worked great too.


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Before I switched it up to using flushers first, I was just running my 3" twice. That worked great too.


That's what I'm doing now. I've never ran a flusher, sounds like they're worth checkin out.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

br549 said:


> That's what I'm doing now. I've never ran a flusher, sounds like they're worth checkin out.


They're so easy to run!
It's funny how it goes sometimes. Around here, flushers are way more common than angle heads, so it's funny to hear guys online say they've never tried them.
I love em.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

br549 said:


> I've never paid attention to how wide an off angle really is, just ran an angle head above them and hand coated them. Will a 2" angle head catch those little [email protected]#kers?


Skies the limit with the angle combinations, but since your doing mostly shacks (like me) I like the smaller to bigger. Main reason is the legs by door ways. Most times a 2.5 will fit by the door, so less need to wipe things out by hand. Then another reason is most times one pass with the head is sufficient enough, well a bigger head you MIGHT half to pass over it a few more times to get it looking right.

On the 8"+10" combo vs 10"+12" combo

12" makes for a better sanding coat.

When guys spot screws, they might start with a 4" knife, then use a 5" knife for the second coat, then the final coat they use some big knife like a 6" or bigger, to hide some screw that's 3/8's of a inch wide:blink: Then to hide a 2.5" wide recess in the wall (bevell), they talk of going as small as possible:blink:

Less chance for sanding error with 12" box IMO, your keeping away from that perfect joint you just built out:thumbup:


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Skies the limit with the angle combinations, but since your doing mostly shacks (like me) I like the smaller to bigger. Main reason is the legs by door ways. *Most times a 2.5 will fit by the door, so less need to wipe things out by hand*. Then another reason is most times one pass with the head is sufficient enough, well a bigger head you MIGHT half to pass over it a few more times to get it looking right.
> 
> On the 8"+10" combo vs 10"+12" combo
> 
> ...


That's good news!

I think I'm sticking to a 10-12 routine, and I'll pick up a 2 1/2" head for taping day. Still going to check out flushers. 

Now next Wednesday needs to get here so I can deposit a check or two and make that call on Thursday after they've cleared. It's gonna be a looong week!


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I'd at least go with a 2.5" to tape, then a 3".
> With a 2.5" at least you're filling the majority of your bevel. (unless it's certainteed sh!t)
> But like everyone's been saying, there's so many possibilities that it's entirely up to you. See what works for you.
> 
> ...


can add to that, if you run 2.5 you will be dipping your flusher in the water pail more slowing production and you won't even ride on top of the bevel, not all board comes off the press rack the same and you will, I repeat will have to skim with a knife to blend some bevels,

I run Like my bro Brian says a flusher but it is a 3 cause some borders will leave angle screws out, some dirt is there also, and as Brian says leave some mud behind, then I flash out with a 3.5 some folks run the big head first but with glue mud first and wide is a appetite for a layering mess seen from the sunlight, running the 3.5 last will give a little ridge some places, stay on top of blade adjustment. I sand angles with 150 grit and cut ridge and get a beauty angle, do not over sand angle when ruff sanding a coupla brushes is good enough and angles take a long time to dry compared to the resta the mud. It will soak out any slight ridges and blend with glue mud and that is where 150 grit is Productive, do not apply mud tooo thin


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Skies the limit with the angle combinations, but since your doing mostly shacks (like me) I like the smaller to bigger. Main reason is the legs by door ways. Most times a 2.5 will fit by the door, so less need to wipe things out by hand. Then another reason is most times one pass with the head is sufficient enough, well a bigger head you MIGHT half to pass over it a few more times to get it looking right.
> 
> On the 8"+10" combo vs 10"+12" combo
> 
> ...


I run 3 and 3;5 down doorways anyway

3.5 blade won't flux on doorway just blow a bit o mud to da floor


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> can add to that, if you run 2.5 you will be dipping your flusher in the water pail more slowing production and you won't even ride on top of the bevel, not all board comes off the press rack the same and you will, I repeat will have to skim with a knife to blend some bevels,


Valid point with the bevell sizes, but I don't understand the dipping your 2.5 head in water more. It could be debatable getting the 2.5 or 3". But Moose boy is right with his one comment, there seems to be more problem with the certainteed board, especially the bevell on the 54" board.

guess we get to confuse br549 with which head to get, the 2.5 or 3":yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Valid point with the bevell sizes, but I don't understand the dipping your 2.5 head in water more. It could be debatable getting the 2.5 or 3". But Moose boy is right with his one comment, there seems to be more problem with the certainteed board, especially the bevell on the 54" board.
> 
> guess we get to confuse br549 with which head to get, the 2.5 or 3":yes:


it is choice 2buck but I know that you know I know that you are rinsing the 2,5 more than Bazooka-Joe is and evey body on DWT knows you know

can't remember what year it was when I use to fix bevels with a skim

Ok so your saying your not the sharpest flusher on the job site..... 3 will hold more mud when wiping, comon 2 buck I know it is late where you are

seems we all get into a routine until someone Jags our tape

we keep learning


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> it is choice 2buck but I know that you know I know that you are rinsing the 2,5 more than Bazooka-Joe is and evey body on DWT knows you know
> 
> can't remember what year it was when I use to fix bevels with a skim
> 
> ...


I never keep any of my rollers or angle heads in a bucket of water well working, I know how to do a perfect mud mix:thumbup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I never keep any of my rollers or angle heads in a bucket of water well working, I know how to do a perfect mud mix:thumbup:


that you need to teach me


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> that you need to teach me


I 2buck, pass the buck to PA rocker, he uses the same angle head as me........ 2.5 DM:thumbup::yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I 2buck, pass the buck to PA rocker, he uses the same angle head as me........ 2.5 DM:thumbup::yes:


pretty satisfied with the 3 myself, I do run tickr mud


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> pretty satisfied with the 3 myself, I do run tickr mud


Lately, I've been running the 2.5 DM followed by the 3.5 NorthStar. After re-setting the blades on the 2.5 I was very surprised at how well it coated the tape


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

"(unless it's certainteed sh!t)"

Been having problems with this and Lafarge.

Gotta love it...increased material costs= reduced quality control.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

br549 said:


> I swear after reading you guys I think we're stuck in 1988 around here.
> 
> Nope, you're stuck in the 60s:whistling2:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

I'm running a 2 1/2" D/M for tape and a 3 1/2" Columbia to coat.Angles turn out great.No tape showing and easy sanding.:thumbsup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

I will stay with my 3 and 3,5 combo, when you realize recognize one day you are rinsing more with a 2,5 let me know,

think and count how many more times ya rinsed over a year comon back and tell me man you were trying to save me from fatigue and those extra couple bucks saved:yes:



the 1988 comment is valid:blink:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I will stay with my 3 and 3,5 combo, when you realize recognize one day you are rinsing more with a 2,5 let me know,
> 
> think and count how many more times ya rinsed over a year comon back and tell me man you were trying to save me from fatigue and those extra couple bucks saved:yes:
> 
> ...


 
What is all this "rinsing" you speak of? I don't "rinse" my tapeing head. The only time I need to stick it in water is in the summer to keep the mud wet.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> What is all this "rinsing" you speak of? I don't "rinse" my tapeing head. The only time I need to stick it in water is in the summer to keep the mud wet.


what do you do with the access mud?

How do you keep the head clean

looks like I am to much of a clean freak


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> What is all this "rinsing" you speak of? I don't "rinse" my tapeing head. The only time I need to stick it in water is in the summer to keep the mud wet.


OK ya sure, thats fine how you do it I just thought of something else that goes with my system but I won't say anything, each to his own,

would like to see a video of yours though


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I will stay with my 3 and 3,5 combo, when you realize recognize one day you are rinsing more with a 2,5 let me know,
> 
> think and count how many more times ya rinsed over a year comon back and tell me man you were trying to save me from fatigue and those extra couple bucks saved:yes:
> 
> the 1988 comment is valid:blink:


Maybe it's something you're doing? 

I gotta say, now that I have the blades dialed in, I get excellent coverage with very little to no spill-over with this 2.5 DM.


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Square Foot said:


> Maybe it's something you're doing?
> 
> I gotta say, now that I have the blades dialed in, I get excellent coverage with very little to no spill-over with this 2.5 DM.


 
Same here. I taped with 3" heads for 30 years or so. The 2 1/2" will cover the tape much better than any 3".


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> OK ya sure, thats fine how you do it I just thought of something else that goes with my system but I won't say anything, each to his own,
> 
> would like to see a video of yours though


 
Will do !:thumbsup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> Will do !:thumbsup:



Kool I just went to You tube and seen the angles being flushed by 2bjr, a TT video also

a couple other guys doing angles, 

I have cleaner look than what I seen out there, not saying I am the best and or right, but my angles look better than what I seen, being a clean freak is what I am, how ever I get non repair angles also

Love to see your guys ways at her though:thumbsup:


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> I 2buck, pass the buck to PA rocker, he uses the same angle head as me........ 2.5 DM:thumbup::yes:


 
I too like to keep my roller and skim head in a dry bucket:blink:. Yup 2buck, a DM 2.5 and a Northstar 3.5. The DM needed adjusting but the NS didn't.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

flash out some videos guys would love to see more/


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I just leave my stuff in water for the most part. If I'm taping my flushers and rollers just sit in a bucket of water until I need them. When I finish my job I clean em up and put them in a little tool bag that holds all my corner tools. Any flushers, rollers, CP tube attachments, angle box, angle heads etc..


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> flash out some videos guys would love to see more/


What the F Joe!? 
What happened to my space!? :jester:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> What the F Joe!?
> What happened to my space!? :jester:


Just mention video to the man that lives on the biggest meteorite land damage on the planet and he starts:blink: to burn up


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## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> what do you do with the access mud?
> 
> How do you keep the head clean
> 
> looks like I am to much of a clean freak


 my water bucket is always close by when rolling and flushing,full flush on angle and no slop all over walls or the floor.anytime i worked with others there'd be mud slopped everywhere,can't handle that bullsh:t.:furious:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

b said:


> my water bucket is always close by when rolling and flushing,full flush on angle and no slop all over walls or the floor.anytime i worked with others there'd be mud slopped everywhere,can't handle that bullsh:t.:furious:


Having a clean Job does so much as in makes you feel better, keeps you more attentive to slight occurring problems, less sanding, and more focus on a better sand job, leaving the job at the end of the day gives a feel of accomplishment, oh did I mention Girls, few have walked in and said ww


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

I don't have issues with excess mud slop, the mud stays in the corners where it belongs. If I keep the tools in water it drips white water on the walls if your not careful. So I like the dry bucket, I find it to be cleaner. Back when I ran a 2" head I had mud slop issues and needed to clean off excess mud from the head. Now that fr8 is more careful about not dropping mud our floors have very little to scrape, many rooms none at all. Keeping jobs clean is important to me too.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I don't have issues with excess mud slop, the mud stays in the corners where it belongs. If I keep the tools in water it drips white water on the walls if your not careful. So I like the dry bucket, I find it to be cleaner. Back when I ran a 2" head I had mud slop issues and needed to clean off excess mud from the head. Now that fr8 is more careful about not dropping mud our floors have very little to scrape, many rooms none at all. Keeping jobs clean is important to me too.


I shake the water off the flusher before i get back on the wall, like I said before each to his own and everyone has a system and that works for them, least till you want to change:beta1: it


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Here you go Joe,,, some pics, even tossed in a pic of the 3 way, so you can get the idea of how much mud were pushing:yes:

yes,,, sometimes you will get a spit line on the edge, but thats why we all rough sand.:yes:

For 3 ways, we roll out the horizontals first, getting the roller right into the corner. Then we install the upright/vertical, making sure the tape always touches the ceiling, then roll it out, making sure the roller hits/bangs the ceiling. If I worked with another taper, and they kept that upright tape even one eighth of a inch from the ceiling, I would fire their arse:furious:,,, I'm very anal about that. Don't look like it, but you can clean out those 3 ways in under 10 seconds, since the tapes were already laying flat


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

yeah right 2buck u used a waterpail if you did'nt u woulda shot a vid

smig lines aint for me


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Here you go Joe,,, some pics, even tossed in a pic of the 3 way, so you can get the idea of how much mud were pushing:yes:
> 
> yes,,, sometimes you will get a spit line on the edge, but thats why we all rough sand.:yes:
> 
> For 3 ways, we roll out the horizontals first, getting the roller right into the corner. Then we install the upright/vertical, making sure the tape always touches the ceiling, then roll it out, making sure the roller hits/bangs the ceiling. If I worked with another taper, and they kept that upright tape even one eighth of a inch from the ceiling, I would fire their arse:furious:,,, I'm very anal about that. Don't look like it, but you can clean out those 3 ways in under 10 seconds, since the tapes were already laying flat


did u know you can pull 3 ways out with a flusher with a water pail to rinse head


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> did u know you can pull 3 ways out with a flusher with a water pail to rinse head


Yes, but I don't like the tin heads to install tape, leaves the point/apex too round, thats why I prefer the mechanical head first, then I will use a tin head to coat.

Not keen on doing 3ways with flusher (tin head), we will use a tin head to do garages sometimes, and will do that,,,, but it leaves more touch ups than it's worth.....

Also, I can see guys keeping their tin heads in a water bucket, dare I say "slippery when wet", they do slide better. With the mechanical heads no. You half to fill/prime a mechanical head before you use it. Most times I will dip the head in the mud, or fill it with my knife. So, every time you dip your head in water, your losing mud. Look at the design of the heads, their machined out to make them lighter, but also hold mud:yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Yes, but I don't like the tin heads to install tape, leaves the point/apex too round, thats why I prefer the mechanical head first, then I will use a tin head to coat.
> 
> Not keen on doing 3ways with flusher (tin head), we will use a tin head to do garages sometimes, and will do that,,,, but it leaves more touch ups than it's worth.....
> 
> Also, I can see guys keeping their tin heads in a water bucket, dare I say "slippery when wet", they do slide better. With the mechanical heads no. You half to fill/prime a mechanical head before you use it. Most times I will dip the head in the mud, or fill it with my knife. So, every time you dip your head in water, your losing mud. Look at the design of the heads, their machined out to make them lighter, but also hold mud:yes:


like I said we have different systems, Mech heads do leave crisp angle for sure


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

I customed down my Lumbia Taper string, left just the right amount of mud fer angles and almost nothing to rinse, think it is time to load a custom string in TT Zooksta

everyone knows 2 buck uses 120 grit


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## Chadzta (Jun 30, 2021)

br549 said:


> A 2 1/2" to tape then a 3" to finish is what I've been leaning towards, just seeing if anyone has any experience against doing that or preference for other sizes. 👍


Have used 3inch to flush then top coat with 3.5inch. Works great but I'm Def gona try 2.5 the 3inch topcoat tmoro


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