# Bazooka help needed



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Well I had another go at the zookie today. It is great I suck. Here are some vids have a look and let me know what I am doing wrong. 
Thanks in advance. Gaz.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9mfO7qg0pQ&feature=colike


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9R5aRGX0EA&feature=colike


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

check this gaz and let us know if it works properly after you follow the steps in the video


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

*AT*

Hi Gaz,
How's the wear of the inserts in the large gear? Are they all present?
How about the pin - is it worn or bent?
Spring tension sounds OK.
ATA036 Disengaging rod not bent?
Also the AT023 Cable Drum? 
When the clutch disengages is the disengaging rod all the way back, or has it crept forward?

Ref: http://www.tapepro.com/manuals/at_d.pdf

Cheers,
Tom.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

tomg said:


> Hi Gaz,
> How's the wear of the inserts in the large gear? Are they all present?
> How about the pin - is it worn or bent?
> Spring tension sounds OK.
> ...



To my untrained eye the rod and cable drum seem ok. It ran like clockwork in the hands of the previous owner (the big difference is he knew what he was doing)
The rod is all the way back when it disengages.

Any ideas why there is so much mud?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Thanks for that Keke. All seems to be working as per the vid.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

that means you have to post a vid with your zooka at work so we can see what might go wrong and give you tips


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

As far as glazing goes, could be too much pressure one side of the head, puts excess mud on the other side. Also, a 3" is what we use after the gun, anything smaller leaves a bit of a mess from what I've experienced


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

As far as the disengaging goes - you might have your mud a little thicker than he did, more pressure when doing internals and there may be some wear on the clutch pin and gear inserts. Can you make it disengage by hand running it dry? Take the cover plate off and stop the cable drum from turning and rotate the tape wheel forward.
Try a couple of different holes (!!).

In regards to the amount of compound - it is geared to supply a certain amount - you can't adjust it. Wear on the cable drum can make a small difference. Compound consistency does make a big difference to how it runs and feels.

Tom.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

We use the 2.5 DM angle head gazzy. Yes you will get the lines spitting out. And if a angle is out of whack, they can look even worse,,,, but,,,,rough sanding with 80 or 100 grit takes them off real fast, since watered down mud sands out more easy than straight stiff mud. If your one of those tapers that like their work to look pretty every step of the way, then you may prefer a 3" head instead

The mud has to be very runny , makes those top angles more easy to do, which you don't half to do:furious:

Running angles today, maybe I'll post some pics, show you what we let slide by:yes:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

gazman said:


> To my untrained eye the rod and cable drum seem ok. It ran like clockwork in the hands of the previous owner (the big difference is he knew what he was doing)
> The rod is all the way back when it disengages.
> 
> Any ideas why there is so much mud?


Gaz the blueline gun does put out more filler than my columbia!
I use a 3 head 2 flush after rolling and its perfect!!
U can c Gaz's gun running on utube under icklebandit1!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thats a different zook than mine so i havent got much, Get that pin down, Push it down, The pin next to filler nozzel, And yes gaz thats about it with the mud, They can be messy, Edge tailing, Hence another reason i go 4 tapeworm on the runner behind it, There is no mess, No edge mess, Only bottoms and corners to pick then.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

tomg said:


> As far as the disengaging goes - you might have your mud a little thicker than he did, more pressure when doing internals and there may be some wear on the clutch pin and gear inserts. Can you make it disengage by hand running it dry? Take the cover plate off and stop the cable drum from turning and rotate the tape wheel forward.
> Try a couple of different holes (!!).
> 
> In regards to the amount of compound - it is geared to supply a certain amount - you can't adjust it. Wear on the cable drum can make a small difference. Compound consistency does make a big difference to how it runs and feels.
> ...


Zactly what I thought also, Gazzer I learned an old trick from senior citizen 2buck, let the Zook sit in trans oil over night, it makes all the difference in the world, My Col tube I got down to the Line wraper and Marine greased the gaskets, but 2buckeroo's ( no relation to Roo's down Unda] anyhoo buckeroo's way is the best as no work to get it on a smooth ride,

also wash with a cup of water down the tube so the piston free's up if muddy,
I pour down first thing in the morning, before leaving the house

the other is Buying a used zook is a hit miss so it is best to take to a shop first and have them give an opinion, As Tom points out on certain parts might be worn, I really thought our friendly Neighborhoond Zealander Cazster would be all over this like a excited taper in search of giving an opinion, musta been sanding day for the mighty Caz

The Nobel Zook Prize goes to 2bucks


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Thats a different zook than mine so i havent got much, Get that pin down, Push it down, The pin next to filler nozzel,


Agreed one thousand percent:thumbsup:, if that pin is not down after you fill it,,, it will give you dry spots on your tape, even bare sections 4 to 5 feet long.......



Bazooka-Joe said:


> Zactly what I thought also, Gazzer I learned an old trick from senior citizen 2buck, let the Zook sit in trans oil over night, it makes all the difference in the world, My Col tube I got down to the Line wraper and Marine greased the gaskets, but 2buckeroo's ( no relation to Roo's down Unda] anyhoo buckeroo's way is the best as no work to get it on a smooth ride,
> 
> The Nobel Zook Prize goes to 2bucks


Should follow my own advice, zookie is running really stiff lately


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Agreed one thousand percent:thumbsup:, if that pin is not down after you fill it,,, it will give you dry spots on your tape, even bare sections 4 to 5 feet long.......
> 
> 
> 
> Should follow my own advice, zookie is running really stiff lately


Got a pail in the kitchen after walking in from work it goes right back in the pail:yes:


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

Gaza I use the same zook .i use a tape pro 75 mm flusher on my wipe down pole not the angle head .the flusher leaves it full to 70 mm after wiping and I use a75 mm angle head to second coat it comes out perfect As it covers first coat by 5 mm.are you running taping mud or hot mud?


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Lloydnz said:


> Gaza I use the same zook .i use a tape pro 75 mm flusher on my wipe down pole not the angle head .the flusher leaves it full to 70 mm after wiping and I use a75 mm angle head to second coat it comes out perfect As it covers first coat by 5 mm.are you running taping mud or hot mud?


hey you guys think your the top dogs using Metric heh......

don't even let uncle Sam hear those pronunciation if on Yankee turf


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

Ok 3 inch for the us boys:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I really thought our friendly Neighborhoond Zealander Cazster would be all over this like a excited taper in search of giving an opinion, musta been sanding day for the mighty Caz


 
Actually it was power roller painting ceilings day joe, First time ive used and it wipped the hell out me, Phew, It didnt have a swivel so i was fighting the hose, Got a swivel at lunch time, Much better, They take a little getting the feel of though.

Gaz, How are you filling the zook, You said you didnt want a gooseneck so im wondering if your filling it off the pump, Taping a few corners, Setting the zooka on the wall or in a corner upright, Maybe not closing the gate, Rolling and flushing, Then picking up the zook, Filling it some more, Running a few corners and oh , You got dry spots.

If thats what your doing then when you have the zook upright, the mud can slide down the tube slowly, Then you pick it up and fill it off the pump, But there is a big air pocket in it now, So then you tape and :furious: more dry spots, So you put it upright in the corner, the mud slides down again, You fill it some more, And add another air pocket and so on.........See......you need a gooseneck, If you dont use one there will be trouble, More trouble than the cost of a gooseneck :yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Gaz, How are you filling the zook, You said you didnt want a gooseneck so im wondering if your filling it off the pump, Taping a few corners, Setting the zooka on the wall or in a corner upright, Maybe not closing the gate, Rolling and flushing, Then picking up the zook, Filling it some more, Running a few corners and oh , You got dry spots.
> 
> If thats what your doing then when you have the zook upright, the mud can slide down the tube slowly, Then you pick it up and fill it off the pump, But there is a big air pocket in it now, So then you tape and :furious: more dry spots, So you put it upright in the corner, the mud slides down again, You fill it some more, And add another air pocket and so on.........See......you need a gooseneck, If you dont use one there will be trouble, More trouble than the cost of a gooseneck :yes:


B.S.:furious:

if the mud is sliding down the tube slowly, then get a new brake.... Goose neck useless


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Can't comment on your mechanical problem gazman but on the edge left behind in the corners I will. 

It may be as VANMAN said, the Blueline leaves more mud with the tape than other bazookas. If thats the case, the 2.5 inch may be a bit small and I would try going a bit bigger or live with what you have. Cazna goes 4" and no ridge but maybe something in between. As 2buck says it will sand out but what you show there looks a bit heavier ridge than what I am use to. I usually do a quick sand in the corners to get rid of the ridge so you may have to get use to a ridge or try to lessen the size of it, maybe with a bigger angle head. :blink:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> B.S.:furious:
> 
> if the mud is sliding down the tube slowly, then get a new brake.... Goose neck useless


 
Good point, You got me there oh wise one, But it happened to me, Cause i didnt put the zook back on the gooseneck and sat it in the corner, Pumped it and got an air pocket. Now you mention the brake thing i wonder what happened??? Cause it shouldnt should it??

Gooseneck great, Gives a place to put your zooka and keep it out of trouble, Again i sat it in a corner, Knocked it over, Bang, gooser needle settings shot to hell, I realise you use your zook a lot but yours is often broke or in the shop and jnr does a weird dance and kick to forward tape............Wonder why :whistling2:

I dont have a repair shop, The repair shops me so i gotta be careful.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

cazna said:


> Actually it was power roller painting ceilings day joe, First time ive used and it wipped the hell out me, Phew, It didnt have a swivel so i was fighting the hose, Got a swivel at lunch time, Much better, They take a little getting the feel of though.
> 
> Gaz, How are you filling the zook, You said you didnt want a gooseneck so im wondering if your filling it off the pump, Taping a few corners, Setting the zooka on the wall or in a corner upright, Maybe not closing the gate, Rolling and flushing, Then picking up the zook, Filling it some more, Running a few corners and oh , You got dry spots.
> 
> If thats what your doing then when you have the zook upright, the mud can slide down the tube slowly, Then you pick it up and fill it off the pump, But there is a big air pocket in it now, So then you tape and :furious: more dry spots, So you put it upright in the corner, the mud slides down again, You fill it some more, And add another air pocket and so on.........See......you need a gooseneck, If you dont use one there will be trouble, More trouble than the cost of a gooseneck :yes:



I got a gooseneck caz. I had no choice the filler nozzle on the blue gun is huge and wont fit into the pump like the mud runner. I must say that I am a little disapointed with the tape-pro gooseneck (Sorry Tom) it does not have an "O" ring for a tight seal, it only has a "tapered" plastic seat. I thought that I would be clever and rest the gun in the gooseneck while I was flushing some angles. When I got back to it there was a huge pancake of mud on the floor that had ran out of the zooka:furious:. If there was an "O"ring that would not be a problem. Are all goosenecks like that?


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

Hi Gaz,
If it came from the AT, check the filler valve for dry mud - it should seal.
If you put the AT upside down to rest with compound in it, it may pay to close the gate valve. ?

Cheers,
Tom.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

gazman said:


> I got a gooseneck caz. I had no choice the filler nozzle on the blue gun is huge and wont fit into the pump like the mud runner. I must say that I am a little disapointed with the tape-pro gooseneck (Sorry Tom) it does not have an "O" ring for a tight seal, it only has a "tapered" plastic seat. I thought that I would be clever and rest the gun in the gooseneck while I was flushing some angles. When I got back to it there was a huge pancake of mud on the floor that had ran out of the zooka:furious:. If there was an "O"ring that would not be a problem. Are all goosenecks like that?


Mine has the white plastic seat, and an oring in there, it's TT

I didnt know about the not being able to fill tape-pro's without the gooseneck :blink:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Philma Crevices said:


> Mine has the white plastic seat, and an oring in there, it's TT
> 
> I didnt know about the not being able to fill tape-pro's without the gooseneck :blink:


Philma, I think gazman has a Blueline and they are slightly different size.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Good point, You got me there oh wise one, But it happened to me, Cause i didnt put the zook back on the gooseneck and sat it in the corner, Pumped it and got an air pocket. Now you mention the brake thing i wonder what happened??? Cause it shouldnt should it??
> 
> Gooseneck great, Gives a place to put your zooka and keep it out of trouble, Again i sat it in a corner, Knocked it over, Bang, gooser needle settings shot to hell, I realise you use your zook a lot but yours is often broke or in the shop and jnr does a weird dance and kick to forward tape............Wonder why :whistling2:
> 
> I dont have a repair shop, The repair shops me so i gotta be careful.


Oh sure, I prove you wrong on a point, and you pick on my little lady (bazooka)

This is war sheep shagger:furious::thumbup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh sure, I prove you wrong on a point, and you pick on my little lady (bazooka)
> 
> This is war sheep shagger:furious::thumbup:


Well you did prove me wrong pretty good, I felt a bit dumbarse too so i had to come back with something didnt i, Again im learning from the master :whistling2:

And you gotta close that gate when you put the zook back on the gooseneck or mud will spill out of it gaz, Same as all zookas, Gate closed for filling and placing on zook, Gate open for taping.

I have a goldblatt gooseneck, It has a white seal and o ring, The only leaking you should possibly get is when you fill it, Some may leak out the side, If it dosnt then its working perfect, Mine does a little so i hold the top of the zook down on it while filling, That helps. Also i cut the bottom off a bucket to make a 2 inch high tray, Place that under the gooseneck, Then you can re use any spilled mud, Leave a spatula in there for wiping the bucket etc.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Had another go with the zooka on the internals today. The results were much improved. It only disengaged a couple of times, which makes me think it is driver error. I used one of Tapepro`s tin flushers.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

gazman said:


> Had another go with the zooka on the internals today. The results were much improved. It only disengaged a couple of times, which makes me think it is driver error. I used one of Tapepro`s tin flushers.
> 
> 2012 10 24 15 51 18 815 - YouTube


Good Gaz thing is having the thing Pop out once inawhile might not be a bad thing cause if ya are giving to much of a G Force ya might break a cable, ya know what happens when a Taper breaks a string don't ya, VOCALS


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Gaz, 

2buck is right, if the brake is working correctly, you can lean your taper upright with the gate open (running position) and the plunger won't drop. If you close the gate (filling position) it disengages the drive wheels, and the weight of the mud in the tube will push the plunger down giving you an air bubble.

If this is not the problem, make sure that pin is pushed all the way down. PA likes to tap his with the butt end of a blade to make sure.

If that still isn't the problem, your dog-ear spring may need stretched a bit. I just had that issue on our last job. Running tapes and would randomly hear a 'click' and get a dry spot. The click was the pin/rod whatever you want to call it, slipping by one of the catches, because the dog spring wasn't putting enough tension on it to hold it in.

Other than air into the tube (user error) or too much pressure on the creaser(user error) that's lifting the head off the board, these are the only reasons I know of that a taper will produce dry tapes.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Gaz,
> 
> 2buck is right, if the brake is working correctly, you can lean your taper upright with the gate open (running position) and the plunger won't drop. If you close the gate (filling position) it disengages the drive wheels, and the weight of the mud in the tube will push the plunger down giving you and air bubble.


Bingo :thumbsup: Thats what i did, Thanks for that fr8.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> Had another go with the zooka on the internals today. The results were much improved. It only disengaged a couple of times, which makes me think it is driver error. I used one of Tapepro`s tin flushers.
> 
> 2012 10 24 15 51 18 815 - YouTube


this is good news Gaz and good reason to open the frige.my question:why did you use flusher and not the angle head which gives a better finish?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I found that the angle head ran to tight for the amount of mud left by the zooka. The flusher seemed to leave less mud on the edges.
Check out the pics in the flusher thread.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

it looks nice and well done :thumbup:
another question: do you use zooka just for internals or for flats too?


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Gaz, for the angle issue, you might need to re-adjust your head. You've been running it after a banjo, and have it dialed in for that. Or just use a 3".


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

keke said:


> it looks nice and well done :thumbup:
> another question: do you use zooka just for internals or for flats too?


At this stage just for the angles. I dont trust our A/P for the flats so I am getting some experience with the zook on the internals before i run base through it.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

gazman said:


> Had another go with the zooka on the internals today. The results were much improved. It only disengaged a couple of times, which makes me think it is driver error. I used one of Tapepro`s tin flushers.
> 
> 2012 10 24 15 51 18 815 - YouTube


 Thank F*ck for that Gaz!!
U had me worried there for a while!!!:yes:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

gazman said:


> At this stage just for the angles. I dont trust our A/P for the flats so I am getting some experience with the zook on the internals before i run base through it.


Have you ever tried mixing your a/p with a good bit of glue? Or is your hotmud just that dang good?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Our hot mud is that dang good.:thumbup:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

yep our hot mud is good but not for everything


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## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

gazman said:


> Well I had another go at the zookie today. It is great I suck. Here are some vids have a look and let me know what I am doing wrong.
> Thanks in advance. Gaz.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9mfO7qg0pQ&feature=colike
> ...


 Just like anything Practice makes perfect. But to tell you the truth. I do not like bazooka. You know who the bazooka was made for. straight up taper. Does nothing but tape. That's why you see guys running it like wind. Because it just keep going house to house. You better be ****ing good at it. Only reason looks perfect because you got a good wiper.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I am starting to get a bit more confident with the zooka. Am I advancing the tape the best way, it seems slow?




http://youtu.be/p-o90HlckfI


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Gaz, When you pull back and cut, The gooser needle should prick the paper and grab it so when you push the control tube forward again it advances the tape so you have a tab sticking out ready to go again, Check your gooser needle and settings, Some zookas required the control tube to be twisted as well to push the gooser needle into the tape, I dont know if the tapepro works like that, My goldblatt seems too?? Or maybe its just a loose POS??

You shouldnt need advance the tape by hand like that, And its tricky, Usually that tab of tape is dry until you get the hang of cut, roll wheel forward a little and advance tape to get a mudded tab, also when doing corners after this move usually you need to put the wheel in the corner, Roll it up a little to get more tape, then go back to the bottom of the corner with a few inches of tape on the floor and then run you corner up to allow for drag..........Confused??


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I dont think that it is a loose pos. The problem is that I dont know what I am doing.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

gazman said:


> I dont think that it is a loose pos. The problem is that I dont know what I am doing.


You are doing a lot better than I ever did.
If you mean the tapes not advancing every time then the gooser might need adjusting or its blunt, but I think what you mean is advancing with a loaded wet tab of tape? if thats the case then have a look at 2Bucks vids and that might help.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

gazman said:


> I am starting to get a bit more confident with the zooka. Am I advancing the tape the best way, it seems slow?
> 2012 11 13 09 52 11 714 - YouTube


 The needle needs to be adjusted. If need be replace the needle they have to have a very sharp point otherwise it will just slide on the tape instead of pricking it and advancing the tape. the second video after you cut the tape just falls down or slides back it shouldn't do this. Replace the spring that allows pressure on the drive dog so it does not slip out causing you running dry tape. How old of a zook is it ? If there are any miles on it some simple maintenance is necessary for it to run smooth.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Too much mud running the angle head try a 3". Tapers forget when these tubes were designed with the amount of mud coming out they were designed for a three inch head for the first go around following a bazooka, then a two inch. I know it seems backwards and the next coat should be wider but it is just the nature of the beast. If you are leaving ridges are the blades set like they should be? Also the springs on the angle head are u running both or just one or none? This will make a big difference. The tension springs are what hold the blades against the wall no matter how hard you push if there isn't enough tension to put pressure on the head mud will flow around and under the blades not allowing them to do their job.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

If your needles advancing fine... instead of using your fingers to get mud flow, like Canza said run it an inch or 2 , i do this a foot or 2 up an upright then to bottom to run as normal. Since you guys dont run top angles  No worries there :thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> I dont think that it is a loose pos. The problem is that I dont know what I am doing.


post #42  http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/two-bucks-give-bazooka-lessons-3446/index3/

The 2nd method would be the better one for you to learn gazzy, Since you guys don't half to do top angles:furious::jester:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

You guys all talk too much 

get back to work all you slackers....................


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

When we talk at least we have something meaningful to say. Unlike some.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Your givin Godzooka A run for her money gaz!!! :notworthy:
I know you ! :yes: You won't rest till your the master and the zook is your bitch!!!:yes::thumbsup:


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

gazman said:


> Well I had another go at the zookie today. It is great I suck. Here are some vids have a look and let me know what I am doing wrong.
> Thanks in advance. Gaz.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9mfO7qg0pQ&feature=colike
> ...


i would say your mud too thick

you might say its not thick 
but for those zook to run smooth the mud has to be real thin


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

gazman said:


> When we talk at least we have something meaningful to say. Unlike some.


That was meaningful.

Someone telling you how to isn't going to help get the job done any faster.

:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

mudstar said:


> that was meaningful.
> 
> Someone telling you how to isn't going to help get the job done any faster.
> 
> :yes:


 


d!ck


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

You must be slow, we get our work done and still have time to piss away on here!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

:yes:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> d!ck


Ok big guy shut up!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Ok big guy shut up!


Lead by example, You first :yes:


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