# Porter Cable Sander, How does everyone use it??



## thesprayking (Dec 25, 2009)

Hey Guys, I used one of the porter cable sanders about 3 years ago on a putty coat job that the HO rented one. To me it was a PITA to use and doing the ceilings on the job were almost as bad as grabbing a pole and just sanding it myself. Now I was thinking of buying one because I've been hearing more about them and was wondering if I am missing something here and these are used different ways like on new sheetrock and without the vacuum. please anyones experience with the sander will be appreciated. Thx :thumbsup:


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

It's the only sander I have used for the last 15+ years. Running into "polishing" problems recently, not sure what that is yet.

NEVER use the wand without a vacuum, unless you want to be replacing bearings in the head.

I have felt most comfortable with 120-160 grit pads.


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## thesprayking (Dec 25, 2009)

So you use it on all your jobs? putty coats and new sheetrock? It doesnt burn the face paper? and when you say polishing, You mean level 5 smooth coats that you sand to perfection then sand more to get it shiny? And 160 grit on smoothwall? That doesnt gouge it up? thx.


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

bought one 2 years ago and tryed it on 2 different jobs ended up sending it back !


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

wnybassman said:


> It's the only sander I have used for the last 15+ years. Running into "polishing" problems recently, not sure what that is yet.
> 
> NEVER use the wand without a vacuum, unless you want to be replacing bearings in the head.
> 
> I have felt most comfortable with 120-160 grit pads.


 It is not just the bearings but will throw so much dust without the vac. I myself will not use anything except 220 grit unless I am sanding old popcorn text off the ceilings and want to remove it fast then I will go to a coarse 80 grit. 220 will take down fast enough just have to be light with it.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

thesprayking said:


> So you use it on all your jobs? putty coats and new sheetrock? It doesnt burn the face paper? and when you say polishing, You mean level 5 smooth coats that you sand to perfection then sand more to get it shiny? And 160 grit on smoothwall? That doesnt gouge it up? thx.


There are occasions when we need to take special care and hand something out. Usually remodels where old meets new or patch jobs. On new construction jobs the sander gets used for everything. The first five years or so we used it, 100 grit was the mainstay. Had to watch the swirl marks for the first half hour or so, then it was good to go. Switched to 120 eventually though, and higher grits occasionally.

Can't stay in one spot even for a second or you risk running grooves in the compound. Always keep the head moving on the board, never stop moving. Put the head to the wall on a non-compound area and work your way into it. Come off the wall/ceiling the same way. Takes a little getting used to I suppose, but it's great once you do.

Nevermind the polishing comment of mine. This is an isolated problem we are currently having, and should not take away from the years and years of good luck we have had with this tool.


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## phoney2 (Jan 20, 2010)

i use the p c sander and just love it gut yes it takes alot to get use to it i use it everywere with the exception of real high ceilings im more apt to using my 360 pole sander but really hate that pole


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## robert seke (Feb 5, 2010)

*Joest Abrasives*

Hi Everyone. I'm new at this site and would like to introduce my company. I work for a German Based abrasive manufacturer call Joest Abrasives. We make a fantastic paper for Drywall. Maybe some of you have tried it in the past and perhaps a lot of you have never heard about us. For the Porter Cable 7800, it is simply a dream. It finishes walls to a scratchless and dustless finish. Also available is the sheets for pole sanders. Currently, you can obtain these from All-Wall or Fantastic Tools. However, in the very near future it will be sold and available through Hyde Tools. Please feel free to check out our video on you-tube as well 



.

Joest also makes a great product for polishing plaster for a venetian finish. THis is atainable with a 2 step process which we manufacture. I look forward to hearing from you all.

Robert Seke


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

Hey i saw that Joest stuff the other night. My question: The rectangle sheets, can those effectively be used on the dustless hand sanding vacuum thingy that we always use screens on? You cant final sand with a screen, so that would be the ticket!


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I don't think I have ever had any dust build up or clogging on my conventional sanding disks unless it is from sanding a painted wall. and the total amount of dust on the floor is not realistic with a regular sanding disk unless you do not have it hooked up to the vac. I think the ad on YouTube is a little misleading. I can understand the theory behind the perforated disk but I am not so sure of all its claims are justified.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

I would also like to see him sand off the edge of an outside corner bead and see if the dust flies then. That being said would be a true test of if it sucks the dust through the sanding disk or not. I could definitely see more of a buildup through the pours on the disk than the open area around the disk itself.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

silverstilts said:


> I would also like to see him sand off the edge of an outside corner bead and see if the dust flies then. That being said would be a true test of if it sucks the dust through the sanding disk or not. I could definitely see more of a buildup through the pours on the disk than the open area around the disk itself.


I don't think anything will work in that case because the brush ring looses its "seal" with the wall at that time not allowing the vac to suck at it should.


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

I honestly can't see much dust going through ANY foam pad, like they say, I don't think it could get much better than it is, but my question still stands! What about the sheets? On a handheld vac sander? Would they work in lieu of a screen? 

And I have been looking for "economical" poly tubing that will fit around the mouth of my carpet (squirrel cage) fan so I can pipe the dust right out a window if anyone knows where I could find such a thing.... Or suggestions.... I think that along with my zipwalls would be the ultimate in dust collection.


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## Timmy the Taper (Dec 9, 2009)

*Junior member*

We love the porter cable sander up here.180grits good once its broken in. A new sanders hard to use at first.we put a cardboard spacer in to keep from pushing so hard Then i had a friend put a wire spacer under the sander head. Works real nice but hold on cause it moves real fast.220 is good too.


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## robert seke (Feb 5, 2010)

Hi Sprayking,

One of the downsides of the P/C thus far has been the end result. Guys complain of the scratchmarks left on the wall. Ordinary no hole discs will load and leave much headaches for you guys. Also, with any machine there has to be some care in handling it. In most parts of the world, P/C (or Flex in other countries), they mostly use the Joest brand. Here is why...

Ordinary discs will clog and put swirl/scratch marks on the surface. This adds frustration. Even the P/C sponge disc will scratch. With the Joest disc, you will allow the disc to sand freely, without the chance to build up. You will notice the life extended nearly 3-4x's that of ordinary discs. However, you must use the Joest foam pad with the P/C. THis foam pad is designed to hold the non-woven backing that is on the backside of the sandpaper. This backing will allow constant airflow and dust-extraction on the pad. If you use a non-joest foam, the grip will not be substantial enough and the disc can fly off.

Another common mistake we see is that when you sand around corners or recessed boxes or any sharp object, SLOW THE MACHINE DOWN.. Too many guys are running it full throttle and this destroys most discs, including mine. Slow it down to around 2- 2 1/2..Once this is complete, crank it up to 5 and you will be 100% satisfied. Please see my video on youtube 



 
Any more questions, please call me at 248-765-6345

Thanks
Rob


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## robert seke (Feb 5, 2010)

Hi Silverstilts,

THe purpose of the multi-holes is simple. Keep the grit face as clean and build up free as possible. On finer grits like 180/220, loading is very common. By keeping it free, you #1 allow the disc to wok longer for you #2, you don't allow build-up of dust (which will scratch) #3, you extract the dust more efficiantly with a vacuum. Even if you don't use a vac, you will absorb some of the dust into the non-woven backside, thus reducing the dust a bit more.

Joest has been around in Europe for 25+ years, leading the drywall market. It really has been proven. Try it, if you don't like it- no harm no foul... I will be happy to send you a free sample. Give me a call at 248-765-6345.

Regards,
Rob


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

like i said i do not have any build up and also I do not have blowouts around boxes. I'm thinking that slowing the sander down just to go around outlets is a waist of time myself and you can sand around them tight if one knows how to run a sander. If you catch something whether on a slow speed of fast don't much matter the consequences will be the same. If you are still interested if sending out that free sample pm me and I would be happy to give it a shot who knows. Right now I run a one piece disk without the Velcro backing I did not like how those lasted they wore out somewhat fast i thought, and yes they did tend to build up as far as I recall. It seemed like a brilliant idea for changing at the time but I feel that the disks seem to last a very long time so the changing was no big deal. I run a 220 grit and have no problem sanding out 200 sheets plus before worrying about changing it . By running 220 disks there is very little if any hand sanding out swirl marks and I always run on high speed just don't over work the wall that's all.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

thesprayking said:


> Hey Guys, I used one of the porter cable sanders about 3 years ago on a putty coat job that the HO rented one. To me it was a PITA to use and doing the ceilings on the job were almost as bad as grabbing a pole and just sanding it myself. Now I was thinking of buying one because I've been hearing more about them and was wondering if I am missing something here and these are used different ways like on new sheetrock and without the vacuum. please anyones experience with the sander will be appreciated. Thx :thumbsup:


Years ago before I invested in my sander I hired out the sanding and the guy that did it did not use a vacuum what a mess.... use the vac or you will have more dust than you can possibly imagine. If any of you out there use a PC and have had the hose come apart you know exactly what I am talking about it don't take long for you to realize that there is dust floating all over in the air before you know there is a problem.


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

Home Depot sells a sanding disc that lasts quite well for like 1.50. I use the velcro stuff cuz around here the one piece is like 7.00! But, I don't use it every day either. It seems like any yellow sandpaper is superior. My partner has some purple stuff, and it lasts FOREVER, but it says 120 and we wouldn't DARE final sand with it!!! It sands more like..... 75 grit? between coats it's very fast!


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## GYPSUMTRADESMAN (Feb 20, 2010)

i got one of these 6 years ago they are durable well built and get the job done love this tool for hard tops and walls i like to sand 1st and 2nd coat with 180 3rd with 200 grit the secret is you got to be consistant dont over sand one erea it can give great results on the finishing start the sander were there is no mud that will help prevent swirls or over sanding


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

you guys sand between every coat? if so why?


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

fenez said:


> you guys sand between every coat? if so why?


 nope not unless i am in a hurry and screw up major. no need to sand in between coats in fact it tends to dry out the mud as you are coating on the next coat, then every time u sand it will ruff up the paper too much of this and you will have a rough wall.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

I have been finishing for 22 years and have never had to sand enough that it would require a power sander, I just don't understand the need for it.


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

Okay, I need you to explain this. You don't sand between coats... what about the overlap from running bead that is left from the 2nd side you run? Do you guys just scrape your bead and laps and hit it again? What about crunchies in angles from the plow? I get scratches in second/ third coat if I don't sand! Everyone here sands between coats, but if theres a trick so I don't HAVE to let me know!!! Because yes, the dust causes problems, build up in the corners of the boxes, mud will flake off sometimes coming out of angles, etc. That's just the way it's taught here... so it must be right.  haha 

Plus all we have to choose from is Goldbond and USG for mud. I hate them. Very gritty. I worked in SLC for a year and they had Hamilton's. I loved it! Creamy goodness! I guess we can get Magnum AP, but that's the selection. Magnum rots so quick, if it sits for 3 days (between jobs) the next time you open the bucket lookout! STINKY! I love working with it, just can't stand that smell.

Are you hand finishers or using tools?


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

Oh yeah, as far as the PC, we use it to sand texture down on remodel jobs. That's it. I haven't put it on a wall yet, but it might help to curb that dust problem!


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

ahhhh thats why some of the guys sand between coats (auto tools) I am a hand finisher...by hand there aren't any edges to worry about.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

fenez said:


> ahhhh thats why some of the guys sand between coats (auto tools) I am a hand finisher...by hand there aren't any edges to worry about.


Must be, I was wondering about that sanding between coats also. The only time we usually touch sandpaper between coats is to knock the squeeze out off the metal corner beads and to smoothen around outlet boxes close to a seam. Once and a while a larger edge can be scraped off with the stiff 4" knife I have in my back pocket. Hand finisher here also.


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