# new type of compound tube plz



## 2buckcanuck

I was wondering if some of you fellow tapers feel this way so.......
I have almost come to the point , That the the compound tube is a disposable product .I never seem to get more than a year out of them .First the hand grip will fall off or punch through the handle .The seal wears out too fast,hard to suck mud up .So then you half to fill your compound tube with the pump you use to fill your bazooka.If you replace the seal the handle snaps next .And heaven forbid if you put a ding in one .
I was also wondering if you guys would like to see them be able to hold a larger mud capacity .maybe make them wider ,and have more length options .I am more concerned about how much distance I can get from the tube ,rather than their weight or bulk .Do any of you others feel this way too .Have a larger compound tube .Maybe call it the Jumbo tube .
And Columbia I have not purchased any of your Compound tubes......so not throwing mud at you .My next one in a few months will be one of yours .My last one was/is a white bte one .Lasted under a year.
Could you guys at Columbia make a larger capacity tube if their was a demand for one .
maybe should do a yes or no poll if there's enough feed back:yes:


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## Drywall_King

2buckcanuck said:


> I was wondering if some of you fellow tapers feel this way so.......
> I have almost come to the point , That the the compound tube is a disposable product .I never seem to get more than a year out of them .First the hand grip will fall off or punch through the handle .The seal wears out too fast,hard to suck mud up .So then you half to fill your compound tube with the pump you use to fill your bazooka.If you replace the seal the handle snaps next .And heaven forbid if you put a ding in one .
> I was also wondering if you guys would like to see them be able to hold a larger mud capacity .maybe make them wider ,and have more length options .I am more concerned about how much distance I can get from the tube ,rather than their weight or bulk .Do any of you others feel this way too .Have a larger compound tube .Maybe call it the Jumbo tube .
> And Columbia I have not purchased any of your Compound tubes......so not throwing mud at you .My next one in a few months will be one of yours .My last one was/is a white bte one .Lasted under a year.
> Could you guys at Columbia make a larger capacity tube if their was a demand for one .
> maybe should do a yes or no poll if there's enough feed back:yes:


 
Buy a tape Pro or Blue Line Usa they are thicker and the end comes off so you can clean it everytime


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## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> I was wondering if some of you fellow tapers feel this way so.......
> I have almost come to the point , That the the compound tube is a disposable product .I never seem to get more than a year out of them .First the hand grip will fall off or punch through the handle .The seal wears out too fast,hard to suck mud up .So then you half to fill your compound tube with the pump you use to fill your bazooka.If you replace the seal the handle snaps next .And heaven forbid if you put a ding in one .
> I was also wondering if you guys would like to see them be able to hold a larger mud capacity .maybe make them wider ,and have more length options .I am more concerned about how much distance I can get from the tube ,rather than their weight or bulk .Do any of you others feel this way too .Have a larger compound tube .Maybe call it the Jumbo tube .
> And Columbia I have not purchased any of your Compound tubes......so not throwing mud at you .My next one in a few months will be one of yours .My last one was/is a white bte one .Lasted under a year.
> Could you guys at Columbia make a larger capacity tube if their was a demand for one .
> maybe should do a yes or no poll if there's enough feed back:yes:


 Have you given any thought to buying a mudrunner and leaveing those toys behind??


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## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Have you given any thought to buying a mudrunner and leaveing those toys behind??


Too much money in canuck land,they use to be $1400,they have come down to $900 now.Still a bit too much for my taste .The guy at our supply store said he sold a whole 2 .He even figures they would half to come down to 4 or $500 before he would try selling them again.Plus I can get a cheap compound tube for $120 so,guess thats another reason guys dont jump at them.
their also something I would prefer to see in action at that price,,so if theres anyone in the London Ontario area that has one,and is reading this,PM me so I can see how well it runs:yes:


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## cazna

Hey 2buck, this tube has a bigger nozzle for more mud flow.

http://www.betterthanevertools.com/bead-pro.php


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## McDusty

you must be a gorilla with your tube.

i've had mine for almost 4 years and it still functions like new, the rubber grip did come off, but i glued it back on, no problemo, B-T-E.


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## carpentaper

his helper breaks everything:whistling2:


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## Tim0282

So if you spend 120 every year..... And the Mudrunner would last say ten years......or more...... Hmmm....Which is cheaper? Hmmm....
Just asking. It's not always cheaper to buy cheaper. :sneaky2:


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## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> his helper breaks everything:whistling2:


but it's true


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## Tim0282

:bangin::surrender:


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## 2buckcanuck

Tim0282 said:


> So if you spend 120 every year..... And the Mudrunner would last say ten years......or more...... Hmmm....Which is cheaper? Hmmm....
> Just asking. It's not always cheaper to buy cheaper. :sneaky2:


I dis agree ,1st you will half to prove to me the mud runner will never break down .Maybe I should of stated the old ones seemed to last longer compared to the new ones imo ,I'm on my 3rd bazooka (though 1st one used) they don't last for ever either....but to me it's a night and day comparison for need between a bazooka and a mud runner.the mud runner is too expensive a toy to buy just to install bead with it.
I'm wondering more about the 2nd part of my post,
would you guys like to see a larger bigger tube manufactured ,one where you could get more distance out of it ,just wondering


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## Al Taper

Find a ames store and rent a mudrunner before you buy one. They are only a few dollars a day. Think under $3.00... The price of 2 cups of coffee. And the mud runner will make u money.. If you rent it and it breaks send it back..


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## Scott_w

If you were closer and your helper wasn't so clumsy , I would lend you my mudrunner. 

Scott


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## mudslingr

I think the tubes are at their max right now. Any wider and a lot of guys wouldn't be able to grip it and any longer would hinder you from getting into some tight corners that are a problem already.

Maybe a double-barreled tube ? :whistling2:
I'd like to find a shorter handle for my flushers. Has anyone seen any around ? I have a closet tube but I don't have a closet handle.


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## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> I dis agree ,1st you will half to prove to me the mud runner will never break down .Maybe I should of stated the old ones seemed to last longer compared to the new ones imo ,I'm on my 3rd bazooka (though 1st one used) they don't last for ever either....but to me it's a night and day comparison for need between a bazooka and a mud runner.the mud runner is too expensive a toy to buy just to install bead with it.
> I'm wondering more about the 2nd part of my post,
> would you guys like to see a larger bigger tube manufactured ,one where you could get more distance out of it ,just wondering


A larger diameter tube would require more push. I don't know if I'd like a larger tube, if only from the aspects of body wear and tube control. I don't think I'd care to try handling a longer one than my Columbia, either, like Can-Am's 60".

As for justifying the MudRunner cost, you don't just use it for bead install. I'm sure you know that.
And if it was easier on your shoulders than using such as compound tubes so much, that could do some good for you.

But I've got something else in mind than either of them, and tried something out a little while ago on it. If you're still running a tube only by the time I get things about it pulled together well enough, and it seems to make sense enough, I'll let you know. Maybe you'll might like to take it for a spin and see what you think.


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## Bevelation

I do not feel the same way. If your tools are treated with SOME care, they should last.

If anything, I would suggest Can Am instead of BTE for your mastic tube. They have a better sealing material than BTE.


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## 2buckcanuck

mudslingr said:


> I think the tubes are at their max right now. Any wider and a lot of guys wouldn't be able to grip it and any longer would hinder you from getting into some tight corners that are a problem already.
> 
> Maybe a double-barreled tube ? :whistling2:
> I'd like to find a shorter handle for my flushers. Has anyone seen any around ? I have a closet tube but I don't have a closet handle.


there's these http://www.tapetechtools.com/rankee-marshalltown-knockdown-blade-combo-set.html
think they come in different lenghts ,they want $80 ,they come with the female end,so you can use your roller,angle heads,sanding head etc on them .This one is called the rankee .If anyone is using them,maybe start a new thread on it .Just wondering how well they hold up ,need to now with that kid that works with me :yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

Bevelation said:


> I do not feel the same way. If your tools are treated with SOME care, they should last.
> 
> If anything, I would suggest Can Am instead of BTE for your mastic tube. They have a better sealing material than BTE.


that's what the last one was,a BTE, I was thinking "oh,can am makes a white tube now ?" when I bought it .Did not realize it was a BTE until someone commented about it on this site .All my past tubes were can am ,and they lasted way longer .we did everything with them,lay tape,pre fill ,install bead,flush etc....Now we use the tube way less ,so you wouls think the money I spent on the BTE,I would of got at least 10 years out of it .I know I would of with the can am .
So yes,I agree bev,the can am is way better,,I would say to guys keep away from the BTE one


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## tomg

*Compound Tube*

Have a look at this - might be what you're after:

http://tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=ct

http://tapepro.com/wp/?p=65






Available in Canada from West-Tech:
http://www.westtechtools.com/tapeprocompoundtube.aspx


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## moore

Tape pro,,Can am,, or,,Big shot tube ???? THANKS! :blink:


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## D's

My Can-Am has lasted 4 years. The grip did fall off but I screwed it back on with a self taping tin screw and it's stayed put.


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## 2buckcanuck

D's said:


> My Can-Am has lasted 4 years. The grip did fall off but I screwed it back on with a self taping tin screw and it's stayed put.


That's what I always bought, found you could get 4 to 5 years out of them, Then give them to some newbie and then I bought the pretty white BTE :furious:
But as I stated in another post, I'm going to give CT a try, when every the money starts coming in again, starting out slow so far, lots of bad weather here in Ontari ari ari O :whistling2:


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## jmr

so can you use these with regular angle heads for running 3rd coat as opposed to using a regular 7 or 8 inch angle box? 

i've always wanted to use a mud runner but as previously stated they are too expensive.. if i can angle with one of these i'm sold..


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## 2buckcanuck

jmr said:


> so can you use these with regular angle heads for running 3rd coat as opposed to using a regular 7 or 8 inch angle box?
> 
> i've always wanted to use a mud runner but as previously stated they are too expensive.. if i can angle with one of these i'm sold..


You can but it takes a bit to master, there's some pro's and cons to them IMO

With the a mechanical head on them, I find there's a bit of a learning curve to them. It applies the mud fairly heavy, which leads to going over the angle over and over and over again. Loading heavy means longer drying times, and higher chance of pin holes ect...they load too heavy in general, and doing high stuff can be a pain.

We use a applicator to load the mud on the angle, then pass over it with the angle head on a handle. Yes it's too steps, but.....

We find it replicates/clones the angle box, it puts the mud on nice and tight (it skims/not loads). One pass with the flusher/glazer and it's done. Less lift marks, you can run verticals in one pass,bottom to top.It's way easier to run, less strain on the body, Doing high stuff and closets is a breeze. To me,,,, the angle box is fast, but it wears you out after awhile, especially on high stuff, even with the extension handle. You don't dread running the compound tube (with app and AH on handle) when flushing/glazing. Good tool if your getting old like me

you can also fill you nail spotter with them
do you corner bead
load the drywall with mud to install your straight flex (use flat applicator)
you can single spot extremely high screws on ceilings with a flat applicator. then wipe with knife on pole (I'm lazy:yes
If you pump breaks down, you can fill your boxes with them
If you bazooka breaks down, their a good back up if you have all the heads (apps), or their good to pull out on small jobs, less set up and clean up time.

Very simple tool to learn, after one house, you got them down packed:thumbsup:


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## mudslingr

2buckcanuck said:


> You can but it takes a bit to master, there's some pro's and cons to them IMO
> 
> With the a mechanical head on them, I find there's a bit of a learning curve to them. It applies the mud fairly heavy, which leads to going over the angle over and over and over again. Loading heavy means longer drying times, and higher chance of pin holes ect...they load too heavy in general, and doing high stuff can be a pain.
> 
> We use a applicator to load the mud on the angle, then pass over it with the angle head on a handle. Yes it's too steps, but.....



I agree with 2buck.:thumbsup: It's a pain in the butt. Consistent runs do not happen. I've tried with mechanical heads and the CanAm standard flusher over the years and they both suck in that application. Not all heads fit with the same tension either and that's another issue to deal with.
And besides, the tube can apply more mud than an angle box. Once you have the tube and flush routine down pat it can be quicker than the box.


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## 2buckcanuck

Sounds like some tool companies should be sending you some royalty cheques in the mail Sir mudslingr. Since you posted your video with the compound tube in action, there's a bigger interest in them:yes:


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## mudslingr

Hehe, if only ! If you're a one man show it's definitely the route to go IMO.


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## 2buckcanuckjr.

Why does everyone always pick on the helper???? Guess what guys gals and sheep lovers the helper takes the the blame for all that's why we still have jobs.:yes:


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## 2buckcanuckjr.

That's why I always say " You Are Either Right, Or you Are Happy.
I Am A Happy Man Lmao


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## 2buckcanuckjr.

P.S. I also vote for a tougher tube. the fact that we are gorillas with the tools is B.S. 
These are supposed to be built to last and take a beating. We aren't that rough with it, they just wear out after a short period. I love the tube, I find it to be quite a useful all around tool. i just wish they went farther. thanks guys for this site and all who have joined and give their input.


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## jmr

2buckcanuck said:


> You can but it takes a bit to master, there's some pro's and cons to them IMO
> 
> With the a mechanical head on them, I find there's a bit of a learning curve to them. It applies the mud fairly heavy, which leads to going over the angle over and over and over again. Loading heavy means longer drying times, and higher chance of pin holes ect...they load too heavy in general, and doing high stuff can be a pain.
> 
> We use a applicator to load the mud on the angle, then pass over it with the angle head on a handle. Yes it's too steps, but.....
> 
> We find it replicates/clones the angle box, it puts the mud on nice and tight (it skims/not loads). One pass with the flusher/glazer and it's done. Less lift marks, you can run verticals in one pass,bottom to top.It's way easier to run, less strain on the body, Doing high stuff and closets is a breeze. To me,,,, the angle box is fast, but it wears you out after awhile, especially on high stuff, even with the extension handle. You don't dread running the compound tube (with app and AH on handle) when flushing/glazing. Good tool if your getting old like me
> 
> you can also fill you nail spotter with them
> do you corner bead
> load the drywall with mud to install your straight flex (use flat applicator)
> you can single spot extremely high screws on ceilings with a flat applicator. then wipe with knife on pole (I'm lazy:yes
> If you pump breaks down, you can fill your boxes with them
> If you bazooka breaks down, their a good back up if you have all the heads (apps), or their good to pull out on small jobs, less set up and clean up time.
> 
> Very simple tool to learn, after one house, you got them down packed:thumbsup:


so it could work if you pre-applied the mud with applicator fitting, then pass back through with the finish head to skim it out? 

i can see how it would be benificial because you could knock out an entire room or two at a time even though its 2 steps because of the mud capacity.. plus the angle box is a pain in the ass to use imo, its my most hated step..


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## chris

I personally havnt seen anything to consider changing angle box method:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> I personally havnt seen anything to consider changing angle box method:yes:


You will as you age:yes:

No it won't beat the speed of the angle box, but the CP tube will make your life easier, and it does the exact same job as the angle box.

When your young, it's all about how fast you can get so and so done to make more money. When your older it's how can I do so and so without being in so much pain, so I can make it into work the next day,,,,,,So sometimes it's who cares if it takes a bit longer, Odds are there are some systems your doing faster than the next guy. Maybe your the fastest man on the bazooka where you live, or the boxes.... i think people know what I'm saying..

I use to hate that angle box, you would be zapped of energy after using it, especially on high stuff . Now, with the CP tube, I look forward to doing angles, and I have energy to perform other tasks after running it


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## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> You will as you age:yes:
> 
> No it won't beat the speed of the angle box, but the CP tube will make your life easier, and it does the exact same job as the angle box.
> 
> When your young, it's all about how fast you can get so and so done to make more money. When your older it's how can I do so and so without being in so much pain, so I can make it into work the next day,,,,,,So sometimes it's who cares if it takes a bit longer, Odds are there are some systems your doing faster than the next guy. Maybe your the fastest man on the bazooka where you live, or the boxes.... i think people know what I'm saying..
> 
> I use to hate that angle box, you would be zapped of energy after using it, especially on high stuff . Now, with the CP tube, I look forward to doing angles, and I have energy to perform other tasks after running it


Sounds to me like you need to talk to Cazna about getting a mudrunner :yes:


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## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Sounds to me like you need to talk to Cazna about getting a mudrunner :yes:


2buck dont like em, cost to much?? If you think a tube is easy on the body then you should try a runner, Half as easy again but you need a pump to fill it and you may be pushing thicker mud than a runner will, I still use the tube for running external corners, could runner it with thinner mud though, Runner for internals, Very easy


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> 2buck dont like em, cost to much?? If you think a tube is easy on the body then you should try a runner, Half as easy again but you need a pump to fill it and you may be pushing thicker mud than a runner will, I still use the tube for running external corners, could runner it with thinner mud though, Runner for internals, Very easy


But you half to turn your wrist, my wrist could get sore :whistling2:


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## chris

2buckcanuck said:


> You will as you age:yes:
> 
> No it won't beat the speed of the angle box, but the CP tube will make your life easier, and it does the exact same job as the angle box.
> 
> When your young, it's all about how fast you can get so and so done to make more money. When your older it's how can I do so and so without being in so much pain, so I can make it into work the next day,,,,,,So sometimes it's who cares if it takes a bit longer, Odds are there are some systems your doing faster than the next guy. Maybe your the fastest man on the bazooka where you live, or the boxes.... i think people know what I'm saying..
> 
> I use to hate that angle box, you would be zapped of energy after using it, especially on high stuff . Now, with the CP tube, I look forward to doing angles, and I have energy to perform other tasks after running it


Im 37 and been drywallin for 19yrs so lets just say my body has as much mileage as a normal 60 yr old.I have guys younger to take over anglebox when cant do myself but I love doin angles:yes:a final step I prefer doing get you a tapetech head with wheels and manifest perfection:thumbup:Looks like a neat tool but Im interested in tools that will make more $$$$$


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## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> Im 37 and been drywallin for 19yrs so lets just say my body has as much mileage as a normal 60 yr old.I have guys younger to take over anglebox when cant do myself but I love doin angles:yes:a final step I prefer doing get you a tapetech head with wheels and manifest perfection:thumbup:Looks like a neat tool but Im interested in tools that will make more $$$$$


37, I would give my balls away to be 37, but at the same time, you got to watch how you treat your body soon:yes:

And if it's the TT heads I'm thinking of, the wheels have no affect till the angle is way off set, when it's acute .


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## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> But you half to turn your wrist, my wrist could get sore :whistling2:


I did one house like you with a tube mud head and flusher, Also used a can am internal head, Stuffed the little wheels on it, they jambed with mud and i didnt realise so kept using it and wore a flat spot on it, then it went thump thump thump along corners.

At the end of this one house i figured it was slow and extra effort to do it this way, so i hunted out a mudrunner, Got it working for me first time i picked it up, Its half as much effort and prob half again and easy twice as fast if you want it to be, I tend to run slighty thicker mud now with a 4 inch tapeworm to finish coat, its a little slower with thicker mud but much cleaner to run and the bigger heads needs to be run slower but wow what a full even and great feathered off corner, The tapeworms gaps in the head are a little open so thinner mud leaks out, thicker mud is not so bad, Its worth every doller in time and saved energy :yes: believe me.

Theres a question for you all, how could i fill in the gaps on the head so it dont leak so bad, Its the hinge gap out near the blade holders, Yeah i know, dont clean it so much.


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## taper71

Apla tech cannon


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> I did one house like you with a tube mud head and flusher, Also used a can am internal head, Stuffed the little wheels on it, they jambed with mud and i didnt realise so kept using it and wore a flat spot on it, then it went thump thump thump along corners.
> 
> At the end of this one house i figured it was slow and extra effort to do it this way, so i hunted out a mudrunner, Got it working for me first time i picked it up, Its half as much effort and prob half again and easy twice as fast if you want it to be, I tend to run slighty thicker mud now with a 4 inch tapeworm to finish coat, its a little slower with thicker mud but much cleaner to run and the bigger heads needs to be run slower but wow what a full even and great feathered off corner, The tapeworms gaps in the head are a little open so thinner mud leaks out, thicker mud is not so bad, Its worth every doller in time and saved energy :yes: believe me.
> 
> Theres a question for you all, how could i fill in the gaps on the head so it dont leak so bad, Its the hinge gap out near the blade holders, Yeah i know, dont clean it so much.


The ball size on your mud runner may be the wrong size or it is too worn out.

For example: I'm going by memory so..... The bte compound tube would not fit the north star angle heads (the slide and lock ones) well it would fit the tape tec......I think.....you know what I mean.......I hope:blink:


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## cazna

I know what you mean and its not that area its leaky, Its the gap between the fixed part and the outer hinged wing that holds the side blade, Its a bit open so mud can leak out at this area if is a bit thin when using it on a runner, Thicker mud helps, its not really an issue, its a fantastic head that all other heads want to grow up and be one day, Thats its only fault, Apart from that, Brillent, Any tapeworm reps lurking about on this site, Speak up, Nows your chance to show your hand :yes:


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## Jason

cazna said:


> I know what you mean and its not that area its leaky, Its the gap between the fixed part and the outer hinged wing that holds the side blade, Its a bit open so mud can leak out at this area if is a bit thin when using it on a runner, Thicker mud helps, its not really an issue, its a fantastic head that all other heads want to grow up and be one day, Thats its only fault, Apart from that, Brillent, Any tapeworm reps lurking about on this site, Speak up, Nows your chance to show your hand :yes:


I haven't seen a Tapeworm before but my heads have an adjustment plate. Have a look for a pair of screw heads on the back. Naturally, some gap is necessary to afford movement of the wings.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> I know what you mean and its not that area its leaky, Its the gap between the fixed part and the outer hinged wing that holds the side blade, Its a bit open so mud can leak out at this area if is a bit thin when using it on a runner, Thicker mud helps, its not really an issue, its a fantastic head that all other heads want to grow up and be one day, Thats its only fault, Apart from that, Brillent, Any tapeworm reps lurking about on this site, Speak up, Nows your chance to show your hand :yes:


I think you would be lucky to fix that Caz, short of some sort of gasket, when you thin the mud use measured amounts of water so you get about the right consistency every time and find the balance where it will still flow but not leak, I think most angleheads end up one big glob after the first couple of rooms.


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## walltools

2buckcanuck said:


> Too much money in canuck land,they use to be $1400,they have come down to $900 now.Still a bit too much for my taste .The guy at our supply store said he sold a whole 2 .He even figures they would half to come down to 4 or $500 before he would try selling them again.Plus I can get a cheap compound tube for $120 so,guess thats another reason guys dont jump at them.
> their also something I would prefer to see in action at that price,,so if theres anyone in the London Ontario area that has one,and is reading this,PM me so I can see how well it runs:yes:


Every single person I've spoken to that uses a Mud Runner absolutely loves it! I mean it. They simply think it's the best tool ever. The Mud Runner is in a league of it's own (well, the Apla-Tech Cannon is pretty trick for angles too.) The MudRunner is a good chunk of change... but it's also an investment in production, and everyone I've spoken to would do again in a heartbeat. Just thought I'd share.


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## cazna

walltools said:


> Every single person I've spoken to that uses a Mud Runner absolutely loves it! I mean it. They simply think it's the best tool ever. The Mud Runner is in a league of it's own (well, the Apla-Tech Cannon is pretty trick for angles too.) The MudRunner is a good chunk of change... but it's also an investment in production, and everyone I've spoken to would do again in a heartbeat. Just thought I'd share.


You run it like 2buck runs his boxes, Get a coat on your corners, do a couple of rooms etc, then go back over and add a small amount of mud 2nd time around, this gives tight, smooth, pok and hole free glazed up corners that you can only wet dream of :yes:


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## McDusty

kill this thread! angles have been covered to death! i'm sick of clicking on it thinking i'm going to see something i haven't seen 10x before.


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## Tim0282

McDusty said:


> kill this thread! angles have been covered to death! i'm sick of clicking on it thinking i'm going to see something i haven't seen 10x before.



:sailor: Tell us how you really feel.


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## cazna

McDusty said:


> kill this thread! angles have been covered to death! i'm sick of clicking on it thinking i'm going to see something i haven't seen 10x before.


Screw you, I say how to double run angles to make em better that i only started doing this week which may help other mudrunner users, and i havent read anyone else doing this before.


Kill your own thread taking the piss out of someone else, I thought that was uncool and disrespectful but i didnt jump in and tell you to can that.


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## 2buckcanuck

walltools said:


> Every single person I've spoken to that uses a Mud Runner absolutely loves it! I mean it. They simply think it's the best tool ever. The Mud Runner is in a league of it's own (well, the Apla-Tech Cannon is pretty trick for angles too.) The MudRunner is a good chunk of change... but it's also an investment in production, and everyone I've spoken to would do again in a heartbeat. Just thought I'd share.


best tool ever
Better than boxes or a bazooka.

When they hit our area (mudrunner) they wanted $1,400, The guy at our supply store said he sold one, that's it. I think the compound tube is something almost every canuck taper owns. At least in my area. And no one bought into them.

My biggest question would be whats the mud capacity of it, if it did not hold more than the CP tube. and to have a tool only conducive to use on one operation, which needs a pump to fill it ........too pricey IMO.....needs to come down in price.

ill offer you $350 for one:whistling2: :thumbup:


----------



## Bevelation

I had one taper tell me the way he likes finishing his angles best is running an angle head directly on a tube. I wonder how that would compare to a mudrunner. Maybe I should try it.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Bevelation said:


> I had one taper tell me the way he likes finishing his angles best is running an angle head directly on a tube. I wonder how that would compare to a mudrunner. Maybe I should try it.


Read post 24, bev
If I remember right, you don't like the tin flushers , the designers of the CP tube (guessing it was can am) promote their own heads to use on them. The mechanical heads IMO, don't work so well, maybe if you go big head 1st then smaller you might have some success.

I can't explain why but the mechanical heads put a lot of mud on, maybe Columbia tools can explain why, they make tubes so.......

I know one taper that does it that way, but he goes 3" mechanical head, then a 2 1/2 can am.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> You run it like 2buck runs his boxes, Get a coat on your corners, do a couple of rooms etc, then go back over and add a small amount of mud 2nd time around, this gives tight, smooth, pok and hole free glazed up corners that you can only wet dream of :yes:


I took some pics just for you cazna:thumbup:

The whole thing with angles is to get them tight on the flush/glaze, if you were to just wipe the edges, like Ive done in these pics, they will pass, gives you something to think about.:yes:

Problem I see you guys having, is to prefill those bolt things they use in your corners, maybe ten times to hide them.


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> I took some pics just for you cazna:thumbup:
> 
> The whole thing with angles is to get them tight on the flush/glaze, if you were to just wipe the edges, like Ive done in these pics, they will pass, gives you something to think about.:yes:
> 
> Problem I see you guys having, is to prefill those bolt things they use in your corners, maybe ten times to hide them.


 
Thanks for the pics, We dont always get those big screws/nails you mention, They are for braceline wallboard, most is standard board, and one prefill, one tape, then mudrun, then one more mudrun sorted them.

These are the nails, i have heard they have stop using them now thank F, But the screws arnt much better

http://www.gib.co.nz/gib-braceline-gib-noiseline/

http://www.gib.co.nz/GIB-Braceline-Nail/


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> Read post 24, bev
> If I remember right, you don't like the tin flushers , the designers of the CP tube (guessing it was can am) promote their own heads to use on them. The mechanical heads IMO, don't work so well, maybe if you go big head 1st then smaller you might have some success.
> 
> I can't explain why but the mechanical heads put a lot of mud on, maybe Columbia tools can explain why, they make tubes so.......
> 
> I know one taper that does it that way, but he goes 3" mechanical head, then a 2 1/2 can am.


 
Interesting you say this, I have found flushers put more mud on than the angle heads, A lot more in the corner and make a rounded corner that takes ages to dry and take more time to sand a nice square corner out of them,

But angle heads are far superior, Sharper corner, less mud, The straight blades on the angle head make a flatter coat of mud than the bendy flusher will, Flushers need weight behind them all the time, If you slack off at any stage of running them then they make a corner that can be different along its length, Very unprofessional and hard work.

An angle head needs less weight behind it which makes your day easier on the body and add a mudrunner its easier again, I dont understand why use a compound tube that you have to push the mud out of, and also draw it in, Both actions that are extra work when you could just lean over a pump which is a natural action and not have to push the mud out, also, using the tube varies in length, Example, you start with a full tube, then empty it, so it starts longer and ends shorter, More strain on the body, A runner stays the same length so less body adjusting, You may think i sound lazy, but do this for 10 or 20 years and see how you feel.

2Buck, With respect, You have mentioned several times your shoulders are worn out, and your bodys feeling hammered but you use a compound tube and flushers which is more pushing than a runner and angle heads. I want to last at this trade as long as i can so i will work as smart as i can, not harder, But i will always listen cause i could be wrong  No one knows it all, I know i dont.


----------



## Scott_w

I am finally (I think) getting the hang of the mudrunner. I love it. I could never get the hang of the compound tube.

fwiw, there have been several mudrunners that have come up on ebay, almost new and new for around $400-500. I picked mine up for 300, well used and the tube is cracked but still works fine. Just want to find a new tube.

scott


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Interesting you say this, I have found flushers put more mud on than the angle heads, A lot more in the corner and make a rounded corner that takes ages to dry and take more time to sand a nice square corner out of them,



It took years of trial and error, or I fluked and got lucky one day. We go with a 2 1/2" mechanical head 1st (shown in pic), then go with a 3 1/2 tin flusher next. It must be the 3 1/2, nothing else works. The BTE heads are adjustable, so you can get the mud to apply tight. We got stuck with a can am this time, it's ok, but I wish they would make their runners adjustable.
your right about the round corners, you can file the point a bit on the flusher it self, but not too much.But running the flusher over the 21/2 mechanical, means it's following a square point It's more about knowing how to sand them out. We just pole sand the edge, keeping away from the point as much as possible. Then yes we cut the point with a sponge, but it's mostly up rights we do, 95% of our jobs get knock down so.....

That's why I got my eyes open for one of those angle sanding things, save me from bending over too:thumbup:

Plus if someone like the H.O. or GC wants sharp looking points, then they can pay for plaster. there's something about the angles in plaster, they look sharper , straighter looking, they have a crisper look to them IMO


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> But angle heads are far superior, Sharper corner, less mud, The straight blades on the angle head make a flatter coat of mud than the bendy flusher will, Flushers need weight behind them all the time, If you slack off at any stage of running them then they make a corner that can be different along its length, Very unprofessional and hard work.
> 
> An angle head needs less weight behind it which makes your day easier on the body and add a mudrunner its easier again, I dont understand why use a compound tube that you have to push the mud out of, and also draw it in, Both actions that are extra work when you could just lean over a pump which is a natural action and not have to push the mud out, also, using the tube varies in length, Example, you start with a full tube, then empty it, so it starts longer and ends shorter, More strain on the body, A runner stays the same length so less body adjusting, You may think i sound lazy, but do this for 10 or 20 years and see how you feel.
> 
> 2Buck, With respect, You have mentioned several times your shoulders are worn out, and your bodys feeling hammered but you use a compound tube and flushers which is more pushing than a runner and angle heads. I want to last at this trade as long as i can so i will work as smart as i can, not harder, But i will always listen cause i could be wrong  No one knows it all, I know i dont.


Mechanical heads are nice, but everyone over rates them IMO, they do require maintenance (and getting those hex bolts out:furious they do give a squarer point, but they will leave spit lines you half to go hunting for with a sponge. Also, they can leave a surprise line anywhere, meaning you half to check every inch of them with a light. If you over sand them, you expose the edge of the tape, which is one thing that rarely happens with my system, and the tin flushers rarely leave lines too.and when they do, they leave lines easily visible by eye, well the mechanical's leave tiny ones, only found by a light.

We also don't run the angle head on the CP tube, So I agree with you on your comments on that, it's a pain that way:yes:. So we go applicator with bazooka type mud(easy oushing), then the 31/2 tin flusher on pole, it's ONE pass with the flusher, same pressure as when wiping tapes. It is one extra step, but other tapers always ask how I'm doing my angle's, so I must be doing something right.

So it would be point less for us to buy a mud runner to run a applicator, since we don't run a angle head on our CP tube. Plus, you can fill the CP tube with the pump if you wish. We can reach 10 foot (3m) high when tube is fully extended, and it's easy to do backs of closets when it's not so....

If guys are confused, we use this to load angles http://www.canamtool.com/products/prodISCrnrApp

Then this to flush, we use a wiper not a flusher, there's a difference http://www.walltools.com/store/better-than-ever-3-5-corner-flusher-cf-03-5.html

this is a flusher, what we don't use http://www.walltools.com/store/better-than-ever-3-5-direct-corner-flusher-cf-d3-5.html

FOOTNOTE; we did try 3.5 1st, then went with the 2.5 mechanical, but we found the mud had to be straight stiff, which did become killer on the arms, so the mud runner could come into play there. But I did not care for the system, too many exposed tapes when sanding, those magical lines that appear from no where, and the mechanical would cut into the point sometimes so..........


----------



## Bevelation

2buckcanuck said:


> Read post 24, bev
> If I remember right, you don't like the tin flushers , the designers of the CP tube (guessing it was can am) promote their own heads to use on them. The mechanical heads IMO, don't work so well, maybe if you go big head 1st then smaller you might have some success.
> 
> I can't explain why but the mechanical heads put a lot of mud on, maybe Columbia tools can explain why, they make tubes so.......
> 
> I know one taper that does it that way, but he goes 3" mechanical head, then a 2 1/2 can am.


Yeah, I totally missed that. All these threads go from 1 to 3 pages in no time and I skip all the posts in between.

I use my can am tin flusher with tube and app every now and then on smaller jobs, and I use about twice the amount of mud than I do with the Columbia angle heads I have. With the corner box behind my Columbia head, it puts a light pin-hole free coat over my tapes. I just have to make sure my angles are put up centered and rolled hard.

I suppose the flusher's factory settings cause them to flush a little heavy, but I know I can always push harder to flush thinner. I just don't like that inconsistency. 

I like the angle heads because although it is a harder push to get the mud out of the angle box, I'm doing two things at once. I find it more straining on my brain to apply, then flush. Maybe down the road when I'm a tired old fogey I'll do the tube/flush way.

Maybe it's time I try the 3.5" for flush and 3" for finish. Feels so backward.


----------



## cazna

Great points you make, Thanks, I understand more now.

I have your can am applactor, And i stuffed it first time i used it doing a house same way as you, The little wheels stuck with mud and i didnt realise so kept using it, Which wore flat spots on them so next time i used it thump thump thump along the corners it went, I got some more wheels made but used a mud head next time, I have those flushers as well, 3.5 and 2.5 but they seem to stay in the tool box now.

Double running the runner fixes all the scratching problems you mention.
And a runner wont push thick mud, about bazooka mud think it needs to be

Have you tryed a Nortan X3 corner sanding sponge, I used one yesterday for the first time, Nice sponge, I have normally used the standard sponges, My fav is the 3m sandblaster, Canadian made i think.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Great points you make, Thanks, I understand more now.
> 
> I have your can am applactor, And i stuffed it first time i used it doing a house same way as you, The little wheels stuck with mud and i didnt realise so kept using it, Which wore flat spots on them so next time i used it thump thump thump along the corners it went, I got some more wheels made but used a mud head next time, I have those flushers as well, 3.5 and 2.5 but they seem to stay in the tool box now.
> 
> Double running the runner fixes all the scratching problems you mention.
> And a runner wont push thick mud, about bazooka mud think it needs to be
> 
> Have you tryed a Nortan X3 corner sanding sponge, I used one yesterday for the first time, Nice sponge, I have normally used the standard sponges, My fav is the 3m sandblaster, Canadian made i think.


You can rip the wheels off the applicator, you don't need them, look at the Advanced tool ones, no wheels.

We tried gluing both types of norton angle sanders to a pole, but they were too hard to move. We only use norton sanding sponges , the ones like this







these ones are not norton, but the one sitting on top is like the type we use, the one side is round, so it won't cut into the opposite angle, which will leave a cut line. If we get stuck with just square sponges, we will cut 2 sides of the points off, opposite each other, with a pair of tin snips, so they won't leave cut lines.

And for 3m, odd, their plant is in London Ontarable:whistling2:, don't see much of their products, their too much $$$$$$$

Are you learning anything with all this angle talk Mcdusty:whistling2:


----------



## cazna

I cut of the edge of the sponge with tin snips as well same as you,

I cant find a link to those sponges, I will try and take a pic today, Better get my dusty arse to work, Gonna be a while sanding this house out, so much ladder and plank walking :furious: We really are nuts arnt we :thumbup:


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

*Back to the compound tube....*

I was thinking about purchasing a compound tube and a couple of applicator headsfor the purpose of corner bead installation and possibly for no-coat in the off angles. I was going to try running an angle head on the tube also. I figured might as well, instead of getting the angle box dirty.

After reading this thread several times, I am unsure if it would be worth the time or the money. It seems that I would have to switch my system up a little bit to use the tool for angles. I used to use a rol-plow which flushes and sets the tape in one motion. I have upgraded to angle heads. I really don't want to reverse my technology to revert back to the flusher heads. If I read everything correctly I see that the angle heads don't work to optimum potential on the compound tubes. It seems like there wouldn't be much difference. Can someone please explain why?

Basically before reading this thread, I was under the impression that the compound tube was the multi-purpose tool that I needed. Now I think that it could quite possibly be a $180 squirt gun.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I was thinking about purchasing a compound tube and a couple of applicator headsfor the purpose of corner bead installation and possibly for no-coat in the off angles. I was going to try running an angle head on the tube also. I figured might as well, instead of getting the angle box dirty.
> 
> After reading this thread several times, I am unsure if it would be worth the time or the money. It seems that I would have to switch my system up a little bit to use the tool for angles. I used to use a rol-plow which flushes and sets the tape in one motion. I have upgraded to angle heads. I really don't want to reverse my technology to revert back to the flusher heads. If I read everything correctly I see that the angle heads don't work to optimum potential on the compound tubes. It seems like there wouldn't be much difference. Can someone please explain why?
> 
> Basically before reading this thread, I was under the impression that the compound tube was the multi-purpose tool that I needed. Now I think that it could quite possibly be a $180 squirt gun.


Actually your roll plow thing is a can am or BTE product but
I think they said it over at taper and jointer well, Americans tend to start with a banjo, well they in the UK start with the CP tube and progress to the bazooka, I think it's kind of the same in Canada. So it's just a tool that we already own.........so, if you guys (yanks) don't want to pull out the bazooka to tape out a small room, you pull out the banjo, Well we canucks pull out a CP tube,,,,make sense

It is a step up over a bead box, but it's not going to get you your money back unless your on a big job to reap instant returns.

It's a good starter kit b/c it can load beads,flats 45's etc.... or you get banjo or slop bucket. If you got all the toys already, it may not be for you. But it does make a good starter kit b/c it does more than just laying tape, like a banjo only does

But if the angle box is pissing you off or killing your body, then they might be for you. It's one part ease of use, and the finish they can give.

There is more sanding just using the tin wiper and flushers, and for some reason the angle on the end of the CP tube applies a lot of mud,,,,and I don't know why, Columbia might know why. the mechanical heads run tight when on a angle box, but on the same angle with the head on a CP tube , you will go WTF!!!!!!


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

My rol-plow isn't a can-am or bte. It looks like this one. I believe mine is a Precision Taping Tools.

http://www.drywalltoolsdirect.com/roll-plow-p-3124.html?action=view


----------



## 2buckcanuck

M T Buckets Painting said:


> My rol-plow isn't a can-am or bte. It looks like this one. I believe mine is a Precision Taping Tools.
> 
> http://www.drywalltoolsdirect.com/roll-plow-p-3124.html?action=view


Wow, we learn something new every day, I never seen one of those before, I thought you meant these http://www.betterthanevertools.com/...=Combo_Flushers&category=Flushers/Angle Heads


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

I saw my rol-plow in the lineup of tools for the Versa-Tool. It may have got it's origins from the Versa-Tool accessories. I may be wrong.


----------



## McDusty

2buckcanuck said:


> Are you learning anything with all this angle talk Mcdusty:whistling2:



all i've learned is that on all-wall.com, the picture of the guy working the 'Mud Runner', is hilarious. 

i have no problem at all with my angles, or sanding them. why fix what ain't broke.


----------



## cazna

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I was thinking about purchasing a compound tube and a couple of applicator headsfor the purpose of corner bead installation and possibly for no-coat in the off angles. I was going to try running an angle head on the tube also. I figured might as well, instead of getting the angle box dirty.
> 
> After reading this thread several times, I am unsure if it would be worth the time or the money. It seems that I would have to switch my system up a little bit to use the tool for angles. I used to use a rol-plow which flushes and sets the tape in one motion. I have upgraded to angle heads. I really don't want to reverse my technology to revert back to the flusher heads. If I read everything correctly I see that the angle heads don't work to optimum potential on the compound tubes. It seems like there wouldn't be much difference. Can someone please explain why?
> 
> Basically before reading this thread, I was under the impression that the compound tube was the multi-purpose tool that I needed. Now I think that it could quite possibly be a $180 squirt gun.


 
You should still get a compound tube MT, They are cheap, I use mine for coving with the cornice heads, And with a mudhead for applying the mud to external corners for the beads, And with a flat mudhead, Or a smaller job with hotmuds, They are great to have, Its just with corners i still prefer the Runner and angleheads, But i could use the tube and flusher if i need too.


----------



## cazna

Here are those sanding sponges i have been using. That corner sponge goes well.

Here they are in my small boat, Its one of these

http://www.macboats.co.nz/home

Great boats, One day i will get a bigger one, mines a 360 model, Tough as hell and very safe, Great kiwi invention, You could even fit a sheep or two in them.


----------



## JustMe

cazna said:


> You run it like 2buck runs his boxes, Get a coat on your corners, do a couple of rooms etc, then go back over and add a small amount of mud 2nd time around, this gives tight, smooth, pok and hole free glazed up corners that you can only wet dream of :yes:


Good thought, cazna. I'll have to try that with the Mudrunner I just got for testing some custom designs of mine against. What are you running for angle heads? 2 1/2"? 3"? when putting on tapes, followed by I think you said somewhere that you're using a 4" Bonehead?


----------



## cazna

JustMe said:


> Good thought, cazna. I'll have to try that with the Mudrunner I just got for testing some custom designs of mine against. What are you running for angle heads? 2 1/2"? 3"? when putting on tapes, followed by I think you said somewhere that you're using a 4" Bonehead?


 
Hi Justme, I have been running a 3.5 bonehead behind the corner roller on the runner then a 4 inch tapeworm but im going to go to my 3.75 goldblatt behind the corner roller now then the 4 inch tapeworm. Thats going to be better, The goldblatt and tapeworm actually leaves a very nice feathered off edge with no tails and no edge ridges so it needs no back wiping, only corners and bottoms to slightly pick, The bigger heads are little a slower to run than the smaller heads but its chalk and cheeze, Not comparing apples with apples at all, And i can very quickly run the pc down the corners and its only a quick block sand with no tape or corner damage at all, and all tapered edges and bad bored are fixed with still producing flat corners, Not steep corners as smaller heads can do. Or i could just radius 360 them, but i have pc, so might as well use it, Hope you understand that kiwi slang


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Here are those sanding sponges i have been using. That corner sponge goes well.
> 
> Here they are in my small boat, Its one of these
> 
> http://www.macboats.co.nz/home
> 
> Great boats, One day i will get a bigger one, mines a 360 model, Tough as hell and very safe, Great kiwi invention, You could even fit a sheep or two in them.


Can you take a pic with some sheep sitting in the boat then

:furious: Holy [email protected] you own a boat, and I thought I was treating myself b/c I bought a $30 pair of running shoes last week. All we get to look forward to in commie Canada is bills, bills, and taxes on top of the bills. I got a phone call from Ma bell for a out standing bill of $40, I'm like WTF it's forty bucks, like F off you greedy [email protected] Then I open my hydro bill and it's $1,200.......you just don't get ahead no more.........Guess I'm being your typical whiny taper:yes:

Whats in the yellow box from 3m, a sanding sponge. guess it was the 3m angle sander I bought. I cut the handle of and glued it to a pole sanding head with some bead glue from trim tex. (that trim tex glue in the can can do more than gluing bead on)......Just couldn't get it moving well enough. Horizontals you had to kind of drag it behind you, and up rights were a real pain to do........ need to re think it.


----------



## JustMe

cazna said:


> Hi Justme, I have been running a 3.5 bonehead behind the corner roller on the runner then a 4 inch tapeworm but im going to go to my 3.75 goldblatt behind the corner roller now then the 4 inch tapeworm. Thats going to be better, The goldblatt and tapeworm actually leaves a very nice feathered off edge with no tails and no edge ridges so it needs no back wiping, only corners and bottoms to slightly pick, The bigger heads are little a slower to run than the smaller heads but its chalk and cheeze, Not comparing apples with apples at all, And i can very quickly run the pc down the corners and its only a quick block sand with no tape or corner damage at all, and all tapered edges and bad bored are fixed with still producing flat corners, Not steep corners as smaller heads can do. Or i could just radius 360 them, but i have pc, so might as well use it, Hope you understand that kiwi slang


Thanks, cazna. Unless someone can tell me different, I'm thinking I'm going to have to look at stepping up the sizes of my angle heads - 2 1/2" and 3" Columbias - if I'm going to do more houses. Too many bevels forming the corners in houses it seems, to try and fill well, which I didn't run across so much in commercial.

In commercial, I was running flushers - usually 3" followed by another 3". But lately I got a 3 1/2" flusher as well, which I started using for 2nd coat.

I keep reading that angle heads should go in reverse to that, from larger to smaller. But I don't know how that works when it comes to filling bevels in corners. Eg. Go 3" angle head when putting on tapes, then 3 1/2", then 3" again?

Would using my 3 1/2" flusher work well enough? Or would it distort the corners when running last 3" angle head?
Question for anyone: Anyone use/used direct flushers on a Mudrunner? 



cazna said:


> Hi Justme, I have been running a 3.5 bonehead behind the corner roller on the runner;


Just for clarification, are you running your mudrunner as well when putting on the tapes? Using it to flush and add extra mud if needed? Or are you rolling and then flushing tapes using an angle head on a handle, then using mudrunner for 2nd coat?


----------



## 2buckcanuck

I would try smaller to bigger, others will tell you different, but here's why

In houses the drywall can be so different with the bevell, there's CD board, 54"board, 1/2 board and sometimes fire rated. Then there's different brands, one week your working on CGC, then the next week sheet rock brand, or they could be mixed together in the same house Then you have a ton of doors where the jam side rarely fits the flusher. We use to carry around 2 flushers, a big one and a small one, then you would end up hunting for the small one when you needed to do a door. Also the mud had to be super runny to push the 3.5 head. (this was way before the invention of the mud runner Cazna)So over time we reversed the order

When laying tape,The mechanical heads perform different on the CP tube as opposed to a pole. On the CP tube they tend to float more on the tape, they don't apply enough pressure, which could lead to flashing. The pole is the way to go IMO.Cazna can explain the MR, Ive never used one so.

Also, if your looking for super fussy, prefill the nails/screws 1st, we even pre fill the upright bevells sometimes, depending on who the job is for, and the $$$ were getting. But think about it, your applying a runny coat of mud to lay tape (the 1st coat) then a runny coat of mud to flush with (last coat) there is no way that will hide the nails/screws, and it can shrink back too much depending on the drywalls bevell (type). We don't prefill them in closets, so we see the difference when checking with a light.

So maybe try a 3" then a 3.5",,,there's my 2bucks worth
and do your experimenting in closets, till you find like you want:thumbsup:


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> Can you take a pic with some sheep sitting in the boat then
> 
> You would like that wouldnt you, I only have a little stuffed one, Actually its my daughters, If i ask nicely she might let me borrow it
> 
> 
> Whats in the yellow box from 3m, a sanding sponge.


Take another look, See the sponge is yellow, Not grey, Its a small label around the sponge, That corner one is great, and the make a standard block sponge to match the corner one as well, Pink and grey, I have also been using one of them



JustMe said:


> Just for clarification, are you running your mudrunner as well when putting on the tapes? Using it to flush and add extra mud if needed? Or are you rolling and then flushing tapes using an angle head on a handle, then using mudrunner for 2nd coat?


I zooka the corners, then corner roll, then pick up the mudrunner with a 3.5 head and glaze off with this and add a little mud as needed, Works great. Then once more with the 4 tapeworm, Im thinning it to about thick ish bazooka mud and one tape coat, then one top coat is perfect, On standard board the screws dont need pre filled, This system is adding enough mud.

I have tryed bigger then smaller heads, Its ok but seemed to need touch ups and you have to use the same mud if done this way, I use a taping mud 70% all purpose %30 mix for tape coat, This helps fill as 100% taping mud shrinks a lot and its harder so that can cause hassels when sanding corners.

I have done corners every way with every tool you can think of and this way is what im finding the best for me.


----------



## JustMe

cazna said:


> I zooka the corners, then corner roll, then pick up the mudrunner with a 3.5 head and glaze off with this and add a little mud as needed, Works great. Then once more with the 4 tapeworm, Im thinning it to about thick ish bazooka mud and one tape coat, then one top coat is perfect, On standard board the screws dont need pre filled, This system is adding enough mud.


On the head sizes you're using, any particular reasons why you went to 3.5 and 4, instead of say 3 and 3.5, or 3 and then 4? Eg. To deal in advance with any possible bad board? To give you a more graduated feathered edge? ....?


----------



## cazna

JustMe said:


> On the head sizes you're using, any particular reasons why you went to 3.5 and 4, instead of say 3 and 3.5, or 3 and then 4? Eg. To deal in advance with any possible bad board? To give you a more graduated feathered edge? ....?


 
Well when i was on the hand tools i started taping with a three then finished one side at a time with a 4, Then a moaning stinking painter thought he was a clever d!ck and held a small straight edge into the corner to show me it was slightly steep so when he rolled the corner it left a fat paint edge due to the raised inside corner, Well im a painter and i know how to use a paint roller so this wont happen so he got told were to shove his paint roller.

Anyway, I was doing a lot of work were the homeowners were painting so i started using a 4 to tape then a 5 one side at a time to finish which actually made a much nicer corner and helped this problem.

Then came the auto tools, 2.5 and 3 and 3.5 heads, Holy sheep they seemed so small, but i tryed them all and angle boxes and flushers etc, Yeah i guess they were ok......ish but they just dont seem enough, They show up bad board, screws, tapered edges and when it comes to sanding or trying to give the corner a wee scrape to make a mint square corner what a joke, You just fart then you have exposed paper, and the high shoulders and bad board show.

So then came the runner, wow great, I could get some nice mud in there without pushing grunting or shoving, or leaping up and down benches like a frog, Tryed the 2.5, then 3.5 then reverse, Then the DM 3.5 first and goldblatt 3.75 to finish, Great, getting there but the edges werent very well feathered off sometimes, So curiosity killed the sheep and i just had to know what a 4 inch head would do so got a tapeworm...............NOW your talkin, BUT its needs more mud, So if you dont get the tape coat nice and full with a 3.5 or 3.75 goldblatt first then running the 4 is a bit slow, it will run much better if you have a well preped base first, as with all coats in drywall.

I have said many times before, This way with a runner has completly blown away all other methods and corner tools a have tryed, It just happens, all bad board, high shoulders, screws are sorted, no going back, no touching up, And its very flat, not steep, The tape is well covered, I can very quickly run the pc down the corners which i couldnt do so well with a 3.5, it would ruin it, then its only 10mm in the corner to check and i can sand it or scrape it with a 5 to make it as good as it was when i hand finished BUT its 10X faster. Ok maybe not as fast as some of you doing it other ways but i dont care, Quaility first, Then comes reward. Its working very well for me.


----------



## chris

It really sounds like you take pride in your work:yes:Good job


----------



## JustMe

cazna said:


> Well when i was on the hand tools i started taping with a three then finished one side at a time with a 4, Then a moaning stinking painter thought he was a clever d!ck and held a small straight edge into the corner to show me it was slightly steep so when he rolled the corner it left a fat paint edge due to the raised inside corner, Well im a painter and i know how to use a paint roller so this wont happen so he got told were to shove his paint roller.
> 
> Anyway, I was doing a lot of work were the homeowners were painting so i started using a 4 to tape then a 5 one side at a time to finish which actually made a much nicer corner and helped this problem.
> 
> Then came the auto tools, 2.5 and 3 and 3.5 heads, Holy sheep they seemed so small, but i tryed them all and angle boxes and flushers etc, Yeah i guess they were ok......ish but they just dont seem enough, They show up bad board, screws, tapered edges and when it comes to sanding or trying to give the corner a wee scrape to make a mint square corner what a joke, You just fart then you have exposed paper, and the high shoulders and bad board show.
> 
> So then came the runner, wow great, I could get some nice mud in there without pushing grunting or shoving, or leaping up and down benches like a frog, Tryed the 2.5, then 3.5 then reverse, Then the DM 3.5 first and goldblatt 3.75 to finish, Great, getting there but the edges werent very well feathered off sometimes, So curiosity killed the sheep and i just had to know what a 4 inch head would do so got a tapeworm...............NOW your talkin, BUT its needs more mud, So if you dont get the tape coat nice and full with a 3.5 or 3.75 goldblatt first then running the 4 is a bit slow, it will run much better if you have a well preped base first, as with all coats in drywall.
> 
> I have said many times before, This way with a runner has completly blown away all other methods and corner tools a have tryed, It just happens, all bad board, high shoulders, screws are sorted, no going back, no touching up, And its very flat, not steep, The tape is well covered, I can very quickly run the pc down the corners which i couldnt do so well with a 3.5, it would ruin it, then its only 10mm in the corner to check and i can sand it or scrape it with a 5 to make it as good as it was when i hand finished BUT its 10X faster. Ok maybe not as fast as some of you doing it other ways but i dont care, Quaility first, Then comes reward. Its working very well for me.


Good post, good points, cazna. Thanks. I'm going to see about stepping up my head sizes.


----------



## JustMe

cazna said:


> Then the DM 3.5 first


I was checking into the DM 3.5 and saw you posted a comment on All-Wall about the speed wheel version: http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Angle-Heads/DrywallMaster-SpeedWheel-Bone-Head

Is that what you're preferring, over the non-wheeled version, even when using a Mudrunner?


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

I can't answer for Cazna but, I can tell you that I like the bonehead with wheels. It seems that the wheels don't do too much most of the time. On the occasion that you run across an inside corner that is tight by a few degrees I wouldn't want any other head. It does also seem not to catch on but joint tapes when running the upper angle. I'm sure that Cazna will agree with me on this.

Sorry Cazna, I wasn't trying to steal your thunder. I was bored and felt like typing an answer.


----------



## cazna

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I can't answer for Cazna but, I can tell you that I like the bonehead with wheels. It seems that the wheels don't do too much most of the time. On the occasion that you run across an inside corner that is tight by a few degrees I wouldn't want any other head. It does also seem not to catch on but joint tapes when running the upper angle. I'm sure that Cazna will agree with me on this.
> 
> Sorry Cazna, I wasn't trying to steal your thunder. I was bored and felt like typing an answer.


All Good M T, I agree and you saved me some typing, Thats exactly it with the wheels, Thats what i have been doing Justme, One of those heads behind the corner roller on the runner then a tapeworm 4 to finish, But on my next house im going 3.75 goldblatt then tapeworm 4, I get a feeling this is going to be better, The Goldblatt 3.5 is actually 3.75 and it was a bit scratchy for a start but i wetanddry sandpapered the blades a little and now its a very smooth head that feathers out very well, Better than the bonehead to honest with you. Not as well made but it works, But everyone seems to trash talk the goldblatt heads, I have there 2 head well and thats a sweet little head, A bit small but good for tight corners sometimes. That needed a wetanddry sand as well.


----------



## JustMe

Good info MT, cazna. Thanks. I'm going to take your advice and check out the wheeled versions.


----------



## JustMe

JustMe said:


> Good info MT, cazna. Thanks. I'm going to take your advice and check out the wheeled versions.


I talked to a supplier yesterday about a 3 1/2" Bone Head wheeled angle head version. He said that on a Mudrunner, with no real push required, it shouldn't make much difference. I agreed it might not maybe too much (although MT said it did make a difference, although I'm not sure if that's on a Mudrunner. cazna agreed about the wheels, so maybe it also helps with even a Mudrunner). I also said if I wanted to use it at times without a Mudrunner, it might help. He agreed it could.

He also said that the rubbers on the wheels can develop flat spots, from the wheels seizing up enough that they won't turn at times. I could see this. Anyone run into this potential problem? Does pre-soaking such a head before using it, and keeping it in a bucket of water while using it, help to keep that from happening well enough?


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## 2buckcanuck

Read post #82 again from MT 

Wheels only kick in when.........it's true


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> Read post #82 again from MT
> 
> Wheels only kick in when.........it's true


Thanks. But I was thinking that could possibly be a problem at times? If wheels are sitting 'dormant' while using angle head, and only kick in when......, are they ready to kick in? Or could they at times be seized up enough from not turning for a bit that you might smoke the rubber wheels a little when they need to kick in, and create flat spots?

I guess for the extra $20-$25, I could find out. If they did give problems, could then just run the thing without rubbers on the wheels and make them a non-concern - if the wheeled versions will run well enough that way? I'm thinking they should.


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

The main problem of the wheels being seized up is usually from not being cleaned thoroughly underneath the axle. The dried compound will harden and keep them from rolling. A guy that I work with alot has had one for several years and rather than the wheel rubbers getting flat spots on them it seems like the o-ring will break.

I make sure to keep mine clean and lubed and haven't experienced any problems yet.


----------



## cazna

JustMe said:


> I talked to a supplier yesterday about a 3 1/2" Bone Head wheeled angle head version. He said that on a Mudrunner, with no real push required, it shouldn't make much difference. I agreed it might not maybe too much (although MT said it did make a difference, although I'm not sure if that's on a Mudrunner. cazna agreed about the wheels, so maybe it also helps with even a Mudrunner). I also said if I wanted to use it at times without a Mudrunner, it might help. He agreed it could.
> 
> He also said that the rubbers on the wheels can develop flat spots, from the wheels seizing up enough that they won't turn at times. I could see this. Anyone run into this potential problem? Does pre-soaking such a head before using it, and keeping it in a bucket of water while using it, help to keep that from happening well enough?


It the time i was looking at the angle heads i couldnt choose between wheeled or non wheeled but figured if i may as well get the wheeled couse if they were no good then i could just take em off and have a standard head, I keep em clean make make sure the wheels are spinning and not jambed so i have never had an issue. A wee drop of lube helps and stops mud from setting in it.

Do you double tape corners?? IE, Run a tape over the gap, then re run the full length of the corner??? If you do then the wheels will help, I personally dont, I prefill first, I didnt like it when i tryed the double tape. A lot of guys do though.

The wheels do very little though, Im not saying they fantastic but it just another option if you want them.

Sometimes the bonehead with wheels leaves an edge ridge which pisses me off, So maybe when the wheels kick in it lifts off the side blade???? I dout it but theres a thought, Prob a BS one, Thats another reason why i like the bigger heads, Less edge ridging, The bigger heads wipe the edges cleaner and if you get it right then there is no tails to clean off, The smaller heads leave more tails. You wanna see the edges the tapeworm makes, So nice :yes: And the Goldblatt 3.75 is pretty sweet as well, The blades on the tapeworm are huge compared to other brands, very thick, I dont understand why other brands are so thin???? Goldblatt, DM,Col all thin.


----------



## JustMe

cazna said:


> Sometimes the bonehead with wheels leaves an edge ridge which pisses me off, So maybe when the wheels kick in it lifts off the side blade???? I dout it but theres a thought, Prob a BS one,


I'm thinking that with the blades floating separate of the wheels, that shouldn't matter. Unless maybe the blade sections are catching a bit at times for some reason and so not reacting fast enough to changing conditions?

I'm used to running standard flushers - http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Flushers/Standard-Drywall-Corner-Flusher - in commercial work. If it was leaving a ridge, I'd think maybe the mud thickness was a little much for the wings of the flusher and the speed I'm using it, and they're 'floating' up, leaving a ridge. &/or that maybe the spring helping to give resistance to the wings needs replacing?

Is it one side especially that leaves a ridge? When I flex my Columbia 2 1/2" angle head blade sections, one side seems to be a little weaker than the other. If I throw a shim under the springs that give resistance to that side, I can make it so it offers more resistance than the other side.

Again, thanks cazna.


----------



## cazna

All good justme, Happy to help, I cant tell you, nor can anyone else tell you how to do it and what to buy, This is only how its been for me.

Flushesr wipe well, but they leave to much of a rounded corner and you have to push em to much.

I have no idea why it edge ridges a little, I know even our high shoulders are different in thickness so that can upset things, Ive messed with the blades a few times and improved it, I put most angle head problems down to the fact that they are too small, and the boards uneven, And im prob a novice, But i do know bigger heads, No more problems. :yes: Its working for me :thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> You should still get a compound tube MT, They are cheap, I use mine for coving with the cornice heads, And with a mudhead for applying the mud to external corners for the beads, And with a flat mudhead, Or a smaller job with hotmuds, They are great to have, Its just with corners i still prefer the Runner and angleheads, But i could use the tube and flusher if i need too.


Gday Cazna I noticed that you are using the cornice head. Have you tried this with the mudrunner? I am thinking about getting a mudrunner and the more things that it can be used for the more sense it makes.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Gday Cazna I noticed that you are using the cornice head. Have you tried this with the mudrunner? I am thinking about getting a mudrunner and the more things that it can be used for the more sense it makes.


Hi Gazman

No i wouldnt use a mudrunner with a cornice head, You need to fill the runner with a pump so the cornice adhesive would be a hassel, It works fine on the compound tube, Quicker to clean up, And mudrunner mud needs to be fairly thin or it will stall, But i do run fairly thin coving glue, then leave it for its draw time before applying the cornice/cove. They are not i high powered gas shock, Just a medium one, It would be to hard to fill otherwise, I just use the runner for corners, Compound tube for all else.

But you guys use a pump and zooka with 90 setting so 90 coving would not be much different for you and a runner is quick to clean so if you ran thin mud it would go ok, Could be good for you.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Hi Gazman
> 
> No i wouldnt use a mudrunner with a cornice head, You need to fill the runner with a pump so the cornice adhesive would be a hassel, It works fine on the compound tube, Quicker to clean up, And mudrunner mud needs to be fairly thin or it will stall, But i do run fairly thin coving glue, then leave it for its draw time before applying the cornice/cove. They are not i high powered gas shock, Just a medium one, It would be to hard to fill otherwise, I just use the runner for corners, Compound tube for all else.
> 
> But you guys use a pump and zooka with 90 setting so 90 coving would not be much different for you and a runner is quick to clean so if you ran thin mud it would go ok, Could be good for you.


What are you guys meaning with the term cornise, are you talking about crown mold or something, The slang/term I see in J&T too, is used a lot

Or am I asking a dumb question:blink: maybe I should not post till I have consumed a full coffee, But I keep seeing , cornise, cornise, cornise, I thought it was the top angle tape, that you m8's had given a name/title

Please explain in english please:jester:


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## carpentaper

it's like a small cove/crown. google tapepro cornice and something might come up. thats where i saw it once.


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## Jason

You know. It's the stuff on top of the entablature.


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## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> What are you guys meaning with the term cornise, are you talking about crown mold or something, The slang/term I see in J&T too, is used a lot
> 
> Or am I asking a dumb question:blink: maybe I should not post till I have consumed a full coffee, But I keep seeing , cornise, cornise, cornise, I thought it was the top angle tape, that you m8's had given a name/title
> 
> Please explain in english please:jester:


 
Cornice is all of this stuff, Made from fiberous plaster. Many different shapes and sizes, Not commonly used now. Like ceiling roses, Corbells archways, daydo rails textured/Stipple ceilings. Click on the black numbers at the top the see the different styles.

http://www.plastercraft2000.co.nz/cornice/cornice1.html

And Cove is this stuff, Its like the wallboard, Made from paper with plasterinside, no fibers. Used 98% of the time.

http://www.gib.co.nz/gibcove/

Im sure you know, Is the terms that confused you, Your forgivin, It happens to me often :blink:


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## gazman

2buckcanuck said:


> What are you guys meaning with the term cornise, are you talking about crown mold or something, The slang/term I see in J&T too, is used a lot
> 
> Or am I asking a dumb question:blink: maybe I should not post till I have consumed a full coffee, But I keep seeing , cornise, cornise, cornise, I thought it was the top angle tape, that you m8's had given a name/title
> 
> Please explain in english please:jester:


Hi 2Buck I am sure that you have got the idea by now from all of the other posts. 99% of homes here use cornice in one form or another weather that be cove which comes in 3 sizes 55mm, 75mm, or 90mm. Them there is the decorative stuff. Cornice rules:thumbup:. NO THREE WAYS:thumbup::thumbup:. You dont need to hang your wall ceiling junction tight. When hanging you do your ceilings first leaving a gap all around then when you sheet the walls just start from the bottom up.


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## 2buckcanuck

Thanks guys, I know what cove is, but the cornise I was assuming but wasn't sure , it looks pretty though.

They do everything here in wood, b/c Canada has a lot of trees, and the trimmer does it.

Maybe someone should do a thread on it, with pictures too.

How do you cut it, how do you do the miters , when you say cornise glue, do you mean a special mud, sounds like your using taping tools to install.

Do you charge so much a running foot,,,,,,, or should I say so much a centimeter for you metric lovers down under


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Thanks guys, I know what cove is, but the cornise I was assuming but wasn't sure , it looks pretty though.
> 
> They do everything here in wood, b/c Canada has a lot of trees, and the trimmer does it.
> 
> Maybe someone should do a thread on it, with pictures too.
> 
> How do you cut it, how do you do the miters , when you say cornise glue, do you mean a special mud, sounds like your using taping tools to install.
> 
> Do you charge so much a running foot,,,,,,, or should I say so much a centimeter for you metric lovers down under


I charge per linear metre to supply and fit (same rate for taping). This stuff is cheap and very forgiving to work with, it's usually cut with any standard mitre box, the glue is exactly like hot mud with an adhesive in it, to glue it by hand I place it over a couple of step ladders and using a trowel and mortar board I load the trowel and wipe it along the edge of the cornice leaving about a 10mm bead of glue, stick it in place, remove excess glue with a broadknife, wash the glue residue off with a paintbrush and water and it's done, the good thing about this stuff is it makes an uneven wall look straight, no need for gapfiller before painting because the glue fills any gaps there might be, and it adds strength to a house...it takes a hammer and chisel to remove it. By myself it takes me just over a day to measure cut and place an average 180sqm house.
The glue is also used for back blocking butt joints with drywall offcuts.
Cazna has got a mudhead for his tube that place's a bead of glue along the wall and the ceiling then you stick the cornice to that, a brilliant idea I reckon, I'll have to get one some day.


----------



## cazna

These clips arnt to bad, The guy in the first one must have a big reach as its tricky one your own, They break quite easy.

Wooden trim is not very good, it opens up and gets gappy, this stuff cant.

The house im on now is all 55mm coving, About 65 lengths of it.





 
Never seen this stuff but its not bad clip.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

That is sweet, talk about easy money, I'm moving to kiwiland, hide your sheep, here I come:yes:

So in a real language, how many bucks do you make a running foot, enough of that metric stuff:whistling2:

We did a large nursing home with the stuff in the 2nd video about 18 years ago (pre-manufactured cove). Sounds like we did it the way kiwiman is describing how he does his cornise in post #100. I forget what we charged, I remember we made a killing.Except we sucked at the miters, the building was very crooked

Then one day I did some with my step father who knew how to do trim work, He was like wham bam thank you ma'am with a chop saw...DONE


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> That is sweet, talk about easy money, I'm moving to kiwiland, hide your sheep, here I come:yes:
> 
> So in a real language, how many bucks do you make a running foot, enough of that metric stuff:whistling2:


Duh me to fick to work out foot, Roughly between $6 to $7 per linear metre supply and fit, some charge more but depends what town you are in, a 3.6m length is about $6.20 + 15% GST
Damn you Cazna for posting that video, now I'll have to buy one .


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Duh me to fick to work out foot, Roughly between $6 to $7 per linear metre supply and fit, some charge more but depends what town you are in, a 3.6m length is about $6.20 + 15% GST
> Damn you Cazna for posting that video, now I'll have to buy one .


 
Why buy one when you could buy 5, And a sheep :yes:


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Why buy one when you could buy 5, And a sheep :yes:


Oh you hoarding bugger! how much for the 55mm head and no sheep?


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Oh you hoarding bugger! how much for the 55mm head and no sheep?


Aww, whats wrong with sheepy?? That green one is quite worn out and doesnt track so well so i wouldnt sell it on, The black Cobok is great.


----------



## gazman

Kiwiman said:


> Sounds to me like you need to talk to Cazna about getting a mudrunner :yes:


Ok I am sold just ordered a mudrunner from Al`s taping on special for $699 US. So by the time I get it here it is about $820 AU delivered. The best I could do localy was about $1220. So I am as happy as a kid on cracker night.:thumbup::thumbup::yes:


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Ok I am sold just ordered a mudrunner from Al`s taping on special for $699 US. So by the time I get it here it is about $820 AU delivered. The best I could do localy was about $1220. So I am as happy as a kid on cracker night.:thumbup::thumbup::yes:


Thats a great price, They were a grand ish usa when i was looking and the shipping all wall wanted was crazy.

Im NZ they have one importer and they have a price tag of $2800

I got a good 2nd hand one but still paid more than you, Even $1220 au is a great price.

Ahh hang on, Aust has GST as well so customs will make you pay that before they past it onto you, Anything above $400 has gst on it for imported goods in nz.


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> Thats a great price, They were a grand ish usa when i was looking and the shipping all wall wanted was crazy.
> 
> Im NZ they have one importer and they have a price tag of $2800
> 
> I got a good 2nd hand one but still paid more than you, Even $1220 au is a great price.
> 
> Ahh hang on, Aust has GST as well so customs will make you pay that before they past it onto you, Anything above $400 has gst on it for imported goods in nz.


Well the runner turned up. Ordered Monday arived today Friday. No GST:whistling2: just turned up in the mail:thumbup::thumbup: $821 ozy $ delivered in 5 days how good is that.


----------



## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> Well the runner turned up. Ordered Monday arived today Friday. No GST:whistling2: just turned up in the mail:thumbup::thumbup: $821 ozy $ delivered in 5 days how good is that.


Impressive isn't it, I ordered some stuff one weekend and it was on my doorstep Thursday morning...better service than within your own country.
Just out of curiosity Gazman, do you know if many guys use the cornice heads over in Oz? do you use one?


----------



## gazman

Kiwiman said:


> Impressive isn't it, I ordered some stuff one weekend and it was on my doorstep Thursday morning...better service than within your own country.
> Just out of curiosity Gazman, do you know if many guys use the cornice heads over in Oz? do you use one?


I have a 55mm cornice head. Tryed with a compound tube and had a fair bit of trouble ( 30 years of plastering has taken its toll on the shoulders).

Used with the Apla-tech. Worked great until the cornice cement started to go off. (that was really close wont do that again. but man did we get some cornice up.)
Not too many here seem to use them, dont know why maybe 10%.
I am going to try with the runner will keep you posted.


----------



## cazna

You will like the runner gazman, How did you skip the GST?? Screw you NZ customs 

Hey 2Buck, I have a Blueline/tapepro CP and i tryed it today for the first time, I thought it felt to big compared to a Canam and it would need more horsepower but it didnt seem to, They go well and move more mud than the can am, Really solid too, and the offset cone nose seemed odd but works well, You just spin it to suit, I used it for the beads and im very pleased i got it, It was a cheap 2nd hand one and it should run the cornice head better than the can am, it will get more distance for a fill.


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> You will like the runner gazman, How did you skip the GST?? Screw you NZ customs
> 
> You were right Caz I love the mud runner. Used it today for the first time topping internals with a 3.5 Northstar. The internals were taped with hot mud and the topping covered realy nice. If it goes this good for the first try I am realy looking forward to how good it is going to be when I have had a bit fo exprience.
> I will be giving the 55mm cornice head a go on monday so I will let you know how that goes.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> cazna said:
> 
> 
> 
> You will like the runner gazman, How did you skip the GST?? Screw you NZ customs
> 
> You were right Caz I love the mud runner. Used it today for the first time topping internals with a 3.5 Northstar. The internals were taped with hot mud and the topping covered realy nice. If it goes this good for the first try I am realy looking forward to how good it is going to be when I have had a bit fo exprience.
> I will be giving the 55mm cornice head a go on monday so I will let you know how that goes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats great gazman, Nice not having to push isnt it, Might do the plastic sleeve thing to mine one day as well, Busy as and dont have much time at the moment. Let me know how it goes with the cornice head, I used the tapepro tube with the cornice head last week, Went well, Its a great tube.
> 
> I have a tapepro 3inch nail spotter with wheels now, Thats a sweet little set up, Extendable handle, The plate and wiper does not come off when you open it like the goldblatts, Easy adjustable key for the spotter to handle connection, Nice side thumb screws for plate stoppers, Nice spring, not to strong, wall kick plate, Light as a feather, I havent run it yet but i have the faith :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> I have a 55mm cornice head. Tryed with a compound tube and had a fair bit of trouble ( 30 years of plastering has taken its toll on the shoulders )


Don't be such a baby gazman:jester: The whole reason we flush our angles with a compound tube and not a angle box, is because it is easier on the shoulders :yes:


----------



## gazman

2buckcanuck said:


> Don't be such a baby gazman:jester: The whole reason we flush our angles with a compound tube and not a angle box, is because it is easier on the shoulders :yes:


Speaking of babys I did notice that that the young Buck was using the tube. Does that mean that you are to much of a baby to use it. (or are you scared or your daughter and dont want 2Buck Jnr breaking the camera. Which would make you a baby anyway.) LMOA


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Speaking of babys I did notice that that the young Buck was using the tube. Does that mean that you are to much of a baby to use it. (or are you scared or your daughter and dont want 2Buck Jnr breaking the camera. Which would make you a baby anyway.) LMOA


Because if I did it, everyone would of seen a blurry flash of speed, so I put 2Bjr the slow poke on the tube, so you guys could see how it's done:whistling2:

And yes I keep on the good side of my daughter, keeps me out of court with her mother, as long as I keep buying her things............she's just like her mother.............women:furious:


----------



## gazman

Your all good 2Buck, just dont tell anyone I said that.


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Because if I did it, everyone would of seen a blurry flash of speed, so I put 2Bjr the slow poke on the tube, so you guys could see how it's done:whistling2:
> 
> And yes I keep on the good side of my daughter, keeps me out of court with her mother, as long as I keep buying her things............she's just like her mother.............women:furious:


:lol::lol::lol:


----------



## JustMe

gazman said:


> I have a 55mm cornice head. Tryed with a compound tube and had a fair bit of trouble ( 30 years of plastering has taken its toll on the shoulders).


An fyi: I've some shoulder problems as well. I went again to the doctor yesterday about it, and he labelled it 'tendonosis' - different from what we think 'tendonitis' to be. It's not inflammation, but tendon damage at a cellular level.

A little looking on the net yesterday told me that the cortisone shots he gave me last year for it, and anti-inflammatory items, aren't good for such injuries, as they help break down collagen, which is needed to heal the injuries. A couple google found sites, the 2nd which describes how to improve things beyond what most doctors seem to know about:

http://www.tendinosis.org/index.html
http://destroychronicpain.wordpress.com/tendinitis/


----------



## gazman

Those shoulders are curtesy of 20 years of hand finnishing and sanding.


----------



## JustMe

gazman said:


> Those shoulders are curtesy of 20 years of hand finnishing and sanding.


I can appreciate wear and tear over time. Mine started off with pushing things for a time last year, including sanding; and later, not doing some of the right things - that I and the doctor thought were right things at the time - to help improve it. I don't know if he still doesn't know that they weren't the right things to do.

The company's field supervisor gave me some anti-inflammatories the other week for it. I told him yesterday that based on what I came across, it wasn't the right thing either, just so he knows in the future when such happens to someone else.


----------



## chris

*shoulder wear*

3 yrs ago my shoulder was injured finishing up someones framing,didnt feel bad til next day. I couldnt lift it over head without the help of other arm for a couple days. Wsa sriously thinking doctor visit but thankfully never did.I believe shoulders will heal over time,mine did.I know a guy that is on his 4th shoulder repair ,and has also tore up his bicep compensating for his hammered shoulder. Doctors dont know sht.Stay away for as long as u can cause once they open u up its all over. Just my opinion on doctors and shoulders. Try sleeping flat on your back


----------



## D's

Spend $100 and go see a physiotherapist, ask them which stretches to do and if you actually do the stretches just before things start flaring up it'll keep things in check. Pills will never be able to solve tight muscles and bad bodymechanics/posture.


----------



## carpentaper

thanks for the post Justme. i'm pretty sure that my thumb is tendonosis not itis but i never would of thought of that without reading it. it makes alot of sense. i fell skateboarding last summer and slammed my hand down really hard. first i thought i broke my hand but it didn't majorly swell and i still had movement. now i'm pretty sure it was just a major trauma to the tendon on my thumb(close to the palm). it's slowly getting better but whenever i get a big taping job where i have alot of skimming or verical beads it gets real bad again. all i have to do is brush it against my leg wrong and i am hunched over wincing in pain. it really sucky.


----------



## gazman

I dont know if this will help you guys. But *I do know that it helps me*. :thumbup::thumbup:Apparantly it stimulates blood flow and other stuff and promotes healing.
http://www.uhwg.com.au/products/SuperStim-PRO.html


----------



## gazman

I will be giving the 55mm cornice head a go on monday so I will let you know how that goes.[/QUOTE]

Well you were right cazna the runner didnt work out with the cornice head, the mud has to be to firm to work with the runner. BUGGER. Back to the tube. But it still rocks on angles:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> I will be giving the 55mm cornice head a go on monday so I will let you know how that goes.


Well you were right cazna the runner didnt work out with the cornice head, the mud has to be to firm to work with the runner. BUGGER. Back to the tube. But it still rocks on angles:thumbup:[/QUOTE]

Cazna right

You better try again:whistling2:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

gazman said:


> I will be giving the 55mm cornice head a go on monday so I will let you know how that goes.


Well you were right cazna the runner didnt work out with the cornice head, the mud has to be to firm to work with the runner. BUGGER. Back to the tube. But it still rocks on angles:thumbup:[/QUOTE]

what do you mean by cornice head????


----------



## cazna

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Well you were right cazna the runner didnt work out with the cornice head, the mud has to be to firm to work with the runner. BUGGER. Back to the tube. But it still rocks on angles:thumbup:


what do you mean by cornice head????[/QUOTE]

See the head he pops onto the tube Capt, We do a lot of this coving work down here, Or up here depending on which way up the universe is???

See this as well

http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=ch


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> what do you mean by cornice head????


See the head he pops onto the tube Capt, We do a lot of this coving work down here, Or up here depending on which way up the universe is???

See this as well

http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=ch





[/QUOTE]
Thats strange,,,,, see thar,, I ain't seen it all yet!!!!!:thumbup:


----------



## cazna

Capt-sheetrock said:


> See the head he pops onto the tube Capt, We do a lot of this coving work down here, Or up here depending on which way up the universe is???
> 
> See this as well
> 
> http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=ch
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgDvPuUHBw8&feature=player_embedded


Thats strange,,,,, see thar,, I ain't seen it all yet!!!!!:thumbup:[/QUOTE]

Its Good work, Easy too, Finishes it Nice, Im surprise you guys dont do it, 2buck didnt know either, Its as common as dogs with bare feet down or up here, About a 50/50 mix of this and square corners for me, I think the aussies do more of it. Its far better than timber as it wont open up and so strong when stuck up, You would have to smash it off.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> Thats strange,,,,, see thar,, I ain't seen it all yet!!!!!:thumbup:


Its Good work, Easy too, Finishes it Nice, Im surprise you guys dont do it, 2buck didnt know either, Its as common as dogs with bare feet down or up here, About a 50/50 mix of this and square corners for me, I think the aussies do more of it. Its far better than timber as it wont open up and so strong when stuck up, You would have to smash it off.[/QUOTE]



looks like a cool idea,,,, Your right we are slow to change round here,,, for instance,,, my GirlFriend was complaining about haveing dandruff and wanted me to give her some "Head and Shoulders" to correct it,,,, after thinking about it, I told her, " I ain't got a clue how give "shoulders", so she's still walking around looking like a snowstorm.


----------



## cazna

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Its Good work, Easy too, Finishes it Nice, Im surprise you guys dont do it, 2buck didnt know either, Its as common as dogs with bare feet down or up here, About a 50/50 mix of this and square corners for me, I think the aussies do more of it. Its far better than timber as it wont open up and so strong when stuck up, You would have to smash it off.


 

looks like a cool idea,,,, Your right we are slow to change round here,,, for instance,,, my GirlFriend was complaining about haveing dandruff and wanted me to give her some "Head and Shoulders" to correct it,,,, after thinking about it, I told her, " I ain't got a clue how give "shoulders", so she's still walking around looking like a snowstorm.[/QUOTE]

Ah ha ha :thumbsup::clap::lol::lol:


----------



## svtman2000

*Bigshot Compound tube*

I've had my bigshot for 5 years ! still works like new. yes the handle came off but i just glued it back on. the little pin hold which vent air to allow the mud to flow is too small. having mine rip through its wide open now and breathes a lot!! better sucks and pushes way easier. also it has alot to do with the consistancy ytou mix your mud. DONT BE AFRIAD TO ADD WATER !. Love mine. been taping for o 12 years now. it is the most affordable drywall tool they make with the most benifit


----------



## 2buckcanuck

svtman2000 said:


> I've had my bigshot for 5 years ! still works like new. yes the handle came off but i just glued it back on. the little pin hold which vent air to allow the mud to flow is too small. having mine rip through its wide open now and breathes a lot!! better sucks and pushes way easier. also it has alot to do with the consistancy ytou mix your mud. DONT BE AFRIAD TO ADD WATER !. Love mine. been taping for o 12 years now. it is the most affordable drywall tool they make with the most benifit


Thanks for the heads up svtman, I will try that next time, never thought of mixing water with my mud before,,,,,,, thanx:thumbsup:


----------



## icerock drywall

*you might like this*



2buckcanuck said:


> I was wondering if some of you fellow tapers feel this way so.......
> I have almost come to the point , That the the compound tube is a disposable product .I never seem to get more than a year out of them .First the hand grip will fall off or punch through the handle .The seal wears out too fast,hard to suck mud up .So then you half to fill your compound tube with the pump you use to fill your bazooka.If you replace the seal the handle snaps next .And heaven forbid if you put a ding in one .
> I was also wondering if you guys would like to see them be able to hold a larger mud capacity .maybe make them wider ,and have more length options .I am more concerned about how much distance I can get from the tube ,rather than their weight or bulk .Do any of you others feel this way too .Have a larger compound tube .Maybe call it the Jumbo tube .
> And Columbia I have not purchased any of your Compound tubes......so not throwing mud at you .My next one in a few months will be one of yours .My last one was/is a white bte one .Lasted under a year.
> Could you guys at Columbia make a larger capacity tube if their was a demand for one .
> maybe should do a yes or no poll if there's enough feed back:yes:


 http://www.drywalltalk.com/members/...ums/compound-mud-filler-handle-dont-fall-off/


----------



## Mudshark

Sorry Icerock - that link was kinda useless (didnt work)

2buck - forget the white tubes - get a Can-Am tube - I have 2 of them and they outlast the BTE by far.


----------



## Al Taper

I should be getting my compound tube in a few days.. I got the Columbia 42 inch one. I am going to use it for installing cornerbead.. I have used the mudrunner, but it gets heavy after awile.. Plus I dont like letting guys use the prices tools. No one cares about your tools but you...:blink:


----------



## JustMe

Al Taper said:


> I should be getting my compound tube in a few days.. I got the Columbia 42 inch one. I am going to use it for installing cornerbead.. I have used the mudrunner, but it gets heavy after awile.. Plus I dont like letting guys use the prices tools. No one cares about your tools but you...:blink:


Good tube choice.

I haven't used my MudRunner yet for beading. Guess I should maybe try it at least once.


----------



## Al Taper

I got The Columbia 42 inch compound tube last week. And we used it with the corner tool to install the cornerbead. It worked great. Not to heavy, easy to clean, and very easy to use.. Love it.. 

:thumbup:


----------



## JustMe

Al Taper said:


> I got The Columbia 42 inch compound tube last week. And we used it with the corner tool to install the cornerbead. It worked great. Not to heavy, easy to clean, and very easy to use.. Love it..
> 
> :thumbup:


How are you finding the tube compares overall to your MudRunner for putting on bead? Or still need more time with using it for bead, before can say?

And which corner applicator are you using?


----------



## cazna

Took me ages to find this thread, Dam search functions rooted.

NNAAAATTTTHHHHAAAAAN :furious:


I want a compound tube with a quick realise nose cone so i can get the stones of hotmud out of it quicker.


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Took me ages to find this thread, Dam search functions rooted.
> 
> NNAAAATTTTHHHHAAAAAN :furious:
> 
> 
> I want a compound tube with a quick realise nose cone so i can get the stones of hotmud out of it quicker.


Hey Caz, did you know you can get a ball end for the quickfill pump?


----------



## gazman

Get part# 6156 on this diagram and fix them to your Tapepro C/P tube.:thumbsup:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Hey Caz, did you know you can get a ball end for the quickfill pump?


Can you??? Who what where??



gazman said:


> Get part# 6156 on this diagram and fix them to your Tapepro C/P tube.:thumbsup:


What diagram, where Gaz, Stop holding out on me


----------



## gazman

What diagram, where Gaz, Stop holding out on me [/QUOTE]


Sorry Caz my bad.
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/TapeTech-Pump-Parts/


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Can you??? Who what where??
> 
> 
> 
> What diagram, where Gaz, Stop holding out on me


Try this one http://intex.com.au/documents/auto/cat-98109.pdf
Scroll down to page 12 and there is a picture of one with the different end, I'm sure a few years ago they had the ball end sold seperately, a bit more searching should bring one up.


----------



## cazna

Mmmm, Interesting stuff there chief, Wonder if it would work?? Would the screws go to far in and scratch up the rubber seal??

Great idea though, It sure would be helpful :yes:


----------



## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> What diagram, where Gaz, Stop holding out on me



Sorry Caz my bad.
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/TapeTech-Pump-Parts/[/QUOTE]
You should have had more Marmite when you were growing up :yes: :whistling2:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Try this one http://intex.com.au/documents/auto/cat-98109.pdf
> Scroll down to page 12 and there is a picture of one with the different end, I'm sure a few years ago they had the ball end sold seperately, a bit more searching should bring one up.


It has too got one, So is intex actually tapetech?? Do tapetech make the homax, Ah HA, Where onto you now intextapetech :yes::whistling2:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Sorry Caz my bad.
> http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/TapeTech-Pump-Parts/


You should have had more Marmite when you were growing up :yes: :whistling2:[/QUOTE]

And Weetbix :whistling2:


----------



## gazman

Intex is the Aussie importer of TT. Judging by their prices I think Ned Kelly must be the CEO.


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> You should have had more Marmite when you were growing up :yes: :whistling2:


And Weetbix :whistling2:[/QUOTE]

Weetbix is Aussie and owned by the seven day Adventist church.


----------



## Philma Crevices

I'm holding out a few more weeks for my first tube to see what Trim Tex is releasing in their catalog in a few weeks :thumbup:

You sick sick men and your yeast sammi's


----------



## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> And Weetbix :whistling2:



To be honest you'd be hard pressed to find something here thats not Aussie owned or from Aussie origin....Mitre10, Bunnings, Harvey Norman, the list goes on....Would you believe even the Bank of New Zealand is Aussie owned now? But hey, we inventented the electric fence.......had to stop the neighbours from rooting our sheep somehow


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Have you given any thought to buying a mudrunner and leaveing those toys behind??


try before you buy

hey bout the tube, go CanAm had mine for almost 3 years and I have had one before and it lasted at least 7 years, trow some cooking oil in it when not in use down both sides, 

" this info is subject to a one time fee of 2 Bucks ":jester:


----------



## cazna

Hi Tomg

Does the Tapepro CP tube have thumb screws to remove the nose cone?? And the Black plug in the shaft end, Is that a pull out plug or how does that get removed, I have an old second hand tapepro tube but that back end plug has a broken tub and the cone end was missing the screws so i taped both ends on, Which makes it hard for cleaning, Hotmud tends to get hard lumps in there which blocks it.


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> And Columbia I have not purchased any of your Compound tubes......so not throwing mud at you .My next one in a few months will be one of yours .My last one was/is a white bte one .Lasted under a year.
> Could you guys at Columbia make a larger capacity tube if their was a demand for one .


Just letting you know that the 60" Can-Am tube you expressed interest in on another thread has a screw in the handle so you can only pull the plunger back part way. Found that out after I was trying one another taper had, and wanted to see what was going on, so pulled it apart. Guess they don't want you to hurt yourself by loading it up(?)

I compared its handle's travel distance to a 42" Can-Am we also had on site. The 42" plunger would pull back a little further than the 60". So if I was to get a 60", 1st thing I'd do is pull out the handle shaft and take out the screw.

I'd still rather have Columbia's 42", though. One guy was grabbing mine to use today, rather than the Can-Ams, so he seems to agree.


----------



## gazman

Caz. Correct on both counts. Thumb screws on the nose cone & the plug at the shaft end pulls out.


----------



## cazna

Right thats it, Im getting a new one, Thanks Gaz.


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Right thats it, Im getting a new one, Thanks Gaz.


Dang it, now I want one too


----------



## tomg

*Compound Tube*

The nose cone is available as an assembly:

http://www.tapepro.com/manuals/ct_d.pdf
And you can buy the end cap. Although if you need those two parts, a new compound tube may be a better idea.

Cheers,
Tom.


----------



## cazna

Got a new one on the way tom, From NZCDS wellington so its all good. :thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Got a new one on the way tom, From NZCDS wellington so its all good. :thumbsup:


Your such a tool whore cazna:whistling2:

So did they give you a due date when she should arrive, are you going to announce it's arrival and post pics for us too:thumbup:

Don't forget to tell us how long she is, and what she weighs,,,, eh'


----------



## cazna

Well, My new toy has arrived, Ohhh, Ahhhh, Aint she shiny and clean, These things are built like a tank and have a double seal system, AND, No screws to mess with like the single sealed triple screwed both ends canam. Just two thumb screws on the cone and a pull out plug at the back, This should last me years and years. :thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

That's looks nice ! I like the more prominent bevel on the cone as well. Not sure how that split seal makes a difference but it looks cool.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Well, My new toy has arrived, Ohhh, Ahhhh, Aint she shiny and clean, These things are built like a tank and have a double seal system, AND, No screws to mess with like the single sealed triple screwed both ends canam. Just two thumb screws on the cone and a pull out plug at the back, This should last me years and years. :thumbsup:


Looks nice tool whore:thumbsup:

I like the idea of the round ball for the handle. Double seal, interesting,,, you will half to let us know how well it sucks up the mud. Do you half to be superman to fill it, or will it fill nice and easy when sucking up the mud. Also, it looks like it has a nut/screw to put more tension on the seals as they ware down. And for clean freaks like you Cazna,, (not me) it appears to come apart easy to clean.

is that the longest length you can purchase,,, and what did it cost you in yankee/canuck dollars.

I'm still in the hunt for the perfect compound tube:yes:


----------



## Mudshark

Yep - looks like Tapepro makes a good toy for you Cazna. Like 2buck noticed, that ball handle seems a good idea. My CanAm handles get mighty slippery at times and I can see that ball being an improvement.
http://yoursmiles.org/t-yes.php?page=2 

So are you going to be swithing heads back and forth to the flat applicator? Good stuff TapePro. :thumbsup:


----------



## cazna

mudslingr said:


> That's looks nice ! I like the more prominent bevel on the cone as well. Not sure how that split seal makes a difference but it looks cool.


The angled nose cone works well muslingr.



2buckcanuck said:


> Looks nice tool whore:thumbsup:
> 
> is that the longest length you can purchase,,, and what did it cost you in yankee/canuck dollars.
> 
> I'm still in the hunt for the perfect compound tube:yes:


I dont know if they come in any other lengths, And it was $290 NZD So thats $237 Canadian, Quite a good price for such a solid tool i thought.


Mudshark said:


> So are you going to be swithing heads back and forth to the flat applicator? Good stuff TapePro. :thumbsup:


I dont use the flat applicator heads mudshark, I have the can am one but never use it. Either homax, Bazooka or by hand for me.

Shame you guys are so far away, My old tapepro CP still has life in it.


----------



## Mudshark

cazna said:


> I dont use the flat applicator heads mudshark, I have the can am one but never use it. Either homax, Bazooka or by hand for me.


I meant that wide mouthed box filler that is attached to the tube you guys have down there and we dont.


----------



## cazna

Mudshark said:


> I meant that wide mouthed box filler that is attached to the tube you guys have down there and we dont.


Oh the quickfill, Yep, Thats great, For filling banjos and boxes that one, But i guess tapepros head they have, Called a mudshark for there cp, Would do the same thing.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Well, My new toy has arrived, Ohhh, Ahhhh, Aint she shiny and clean, These things are built like a tank and have a double seal system, AND, No screws to mess with like the single sealed triple screwed both ends canam. Just two thumb screws on the cone and a pull out plug at the back, This should last me years and years. :thumbsup:


Looks like I can hold one of those compound tubes in my hands tomorrow Cazna the tool whore. Stopped at my supply dudes home, to get my bazooka fixed again:furious:..... Said he just got ONE sent to him at the store today, but he wouldn't agree to sell it to me. Think he has to put it on display.......

Tomg, tell him to sell it to me


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> Looks like I can hold one of those compound tubes in my hands tomorrow Cazna the tool whore. Stopped at my supply dudes home, to get my bazooka fixed again:furious:..... Said he just got ONE sent to him at the store today, but he wouldn't agree to sell it to me. Think he has to put it on display.......
> 
> Tomg, tell him to sell it to me


Be interesting to hear what you have to say about it, Your a heavy CP user so let us know how you go......bro :thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> Looks like I can hold one of those compound tubes in my hands tomorrow Cazna the tool whore. Stopped at my supply dudes home, to get my bazooka fixed again:furious:..... Said he just got ONE sent to him at the store today, but he wouldn't agree to sell it to me. Think he has to put it on display.......
> 
> Tomg, tell him to sell it to me


Just call Joe from Trim-tex 2buck. He sells them too.
He'll hook you up.



cazna said:


> Be interesting to hear what you have to say about it, Your a heavy CP user so let us know how you go......bro :thumbsup:


I love mine so far! Great tube!


----------



## tomg

2buckcanuck said:


> Looks like I can hold one of those compound tubes in my hands tomorrow Cazna the tool whore.


I know how you love WD-40, but you will get longer life from the wiper seals if you don't use it. They are relatively resistant, but will still show signs of stiffening with constant WD-40 use.
A good clean with water and they don't need much - a little silicone spray perhaps.

Cheers,
Tom.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

tomg said:


> I know how you love WD-40, but you will get longer life from the wiper seals if you don't use it. They are relatively resistant, but will still show signs of stiffening with constant WD-40 use.
> A good clean with water and they don't need much - a little silicone spray perhaps.
> 
> Cheers,
> Tom.


me wd-40:blink:

Thats Captain sheetrock who loves the stuff, not me:yes:

plus I see no need to lube up a cp tube. What ever lubricant you use, may/will come in contact with your mud.

The only lube I use on stuff (at work only:whistling2 is 10w/30


----------



## tomg

2buckcanuck said:


> me wd-40:blink:
> 
> Thats Captain sheetrock who loves the stuff, not me:yes:
> 
> plus I see no need to lube up a cp tube. What ever lubricant you use, may/will come in contact with your mud.
> 
> The only lube I use on stuff (at work only:whistling2 is 10w/30


Ahh - sorry 2buck, I should have checked. My mistake.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

oh I don't know if this is worth saying I allways let my tube soak


----------



## 2buckcanuck

tomg said:


> Ahh - sorry 2buck, I should have checked. My mistake.


Well if your truly feeling sorry Tomg, You should call up my supply house, and tell them to give me a sweet deal on your cp tube.

I put a 65 buck deposit down on it today. The dude at the supply house really liked the concept of your tube. He was a bit worried about the girth of it, but I told him that was no problem. He wants to put it on display for a bit. So I agreed to let him display it for 2 weeks. I had the funds to walk out of the store with it today,,,, so see how nice I am being:thumbup:

But at least I got to hold and caress it a bit, was able to compare it to a used (pre owned) can-am tube that was sitting right beside it. The can-am looked like a WW1 relic .

So if your truly feeling sorry Tomg, I will PM you my supply dudes cell number, he feels he might sell a lot of them (hopefully) :whistling2:

Get me a deal


----------



## Tim0282

Beggar!!


----------



## Tim0282

Is it like a MudRunner? Except better?


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Tim0282 said:


> Beggar!!


Yes I am









Now your post started a new page, and Tomg might miss my post:whistling2:

Tomg, read post # 180


----------



## cazna

Tim0282 said:


> Is it like a MudRunner? Except better?


 
Its nothing like a mudrunner. Two different things, One is gas shock powered and the other is man powered.


----------



## Tim0282

2buckcanuck said:


> Yes I am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now your post started a new page, and Tomg might miss my post:whistling2:
> 
> Tomg, read post # 180


Oops, sorry about that 2! Hoping he will turn the page for you!


----------



## moore

Tomg, read post #180


----------



## tomg

2buckcanuck said:


> Well if your truly feeling sorry Tomg, You should call up my supply house, and tell them to give me a sweet deal on your cp tube.
> 
> I put a 65 buck deposit down on it today. The dude at the supply house really liked the concept of your tube. He was a bit worried about the girth of it, but I told him that was no problem. He wants to put it on display for a bit. So I agreed to let him display it for 2 weeks. I had the funds to walk out of the store with it today,,,, so see how nice I am being:thumbup:
> 
> But at least I got to hold and caress it a bit, was able to compare it to a used (pre owned) can-am tube that was sitting right beside it. The can-am looked like a WW1 relic .
> 
> So if your truly feeling sorry Tomg, I will PM you my supply dudes cell number, he feels he might sell a lot of them (hopefully) :whistling2:
> 
> Get me a deal


Probably can't do much regards your supply house as I have no direct contact with them. We've got some new flat applicators coming soon though - I can probably send you one of those:






?

Cheers,
Tom.


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## Bazooka-Joe

never seen tear away used in there great show Trim Tex easy even coat to match 3five0, think I will make some popcorn and watch it a gain


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## James Stafford

2buckcanuck said:


> I dis agree ,1st you will half to prove to me the mud runner will never break down .Maybe I should of stated the old ones seemed to last longer compared to the new ones imo ,I'm on my 3rd bazooka (though 1st one used) they don't last for ever either....but to me it's a night and day comparison for need between a bazooka and a mud runner.the mud runner is too expensive a toy to buy just to install bead with it.
> I'm wondering more about the 2nd part of my post,
> would you guys like to see a larger bigger tube manufactured ,one where you could get more distance out of it ,just wondering


 Apla-Tech!


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## PrecisionTaping

James Stafford said:


> Apla-Tech!


Ya sure....If I wanted to spend 5 billion dollars, drag an air hose around with me everywhere I went and have an air compressor going off every 10 seconds. :jester:


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## moore

PrecisionTaping said:


> Ya sure....If I wanted to spend 5 billion dollars, drag an air hose around with me everywhere I went and have an air compressor going off every 10 seconds. :jester:


 lol:lol::lol::lol::lol:


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## PrecisionTaping

moore said:


> lol:lol::lol::lol:


 oops :jester:


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## 2buckcanuck

James Stafford said:


> Apla-Tech!


Apla-tech is the google search that made me stumble upon Drywall talk (unfortunately for others of this site:whistling2

Think our search bar is working again:thumbup: so you can read old threads about the apla system. There are pro's and cons to it, like anything...

few pro's I remember, good for huge open jobs. Coating/flushing angles seemed like the # one pro, a long with installing bead.

But there seemed to be more negatives like, price, clean up, hoses, compressor, set-up, and winter environments to be some of them. Plus someone is always offering to sell their system on here also..

If I were still doing condos/high rises, I would think about using one, but to do shacks,,,,,nah


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## 2buckcanuck

tomg said:


> Probably can't do much regards your supply house as I have no direct contact with them. We've got some new flat applicators coming soon though - I can probably send you one of those:
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Tom.


Do you have a attachment that can fit on your cp tube to fill boxes. A lot of times I half to split my little 3 man crew up, and we only have one pump. The kiwi's keep bragging they have a attachment to fit over their cp tube, I would pay for that:yes:

If you don't know what I'm talking about,,,,, then,,,,,,,, Cazna, hurry up and post a picture of it:furious::whistling2:


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> Do you have a attachment that can fit on your cp tube to fill boxes. A lot of times I half to split my little 3 man crew up, and we only have one pump. The kiwi's keep bragging they have a attachment to fit over their cp tube, I would pay for that:yes:
> 
> If you don't know what I'm talking about,,,,, then,,,,,,,, Cazna, hurry up and post a picture of it:furious::whistling2:


This is what you're looking for 2buck.
Tape Pro does make it.
http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=fact


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## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> This is what you're looking for 2buck.
> Tape Pro does make it.
> http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=fact
> View attachment 4358
> 
> View attachment 4360
> 
> View attachment 4359


Gimme gimme gimme


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## cazna

Or this, Or make your own.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Or this, Or make your own.


You know what I like about the quickfill pump?.......They are plastic and don't dent, I can't remember how long I've had mine but it just doesn't wear out, still has the original plunger, I bought a spare one while they were cheap just in case, but it's just gathering dust. I think all tubes should be built like these ones, you can adjust how tight the plunger fits just by tweaking the nut, the 'T' shaped handle is ideal, and they are the easiest tube to clean you'll ever have :thumbsup:

Edit.....I'm not saying there's anything wrong with other tubes, they all have their place, the quickfill is design just for filling really.


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## gazman

There is a quick fill on Aussie Ebay at the moment.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Quickfil...ilding_Materials_Hardware&hash=item3a755705bf


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## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> There is a quick fill on Aussie Ebay at the moment.
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Quickfil...ilding_Materials_Hardware&hash=item3a755705bf


He says never used, I don't like his chances at $150 .....maybe they make them with plaster dust and scratches on , I got my spare one off Aussie ebay and it was only around $100, can't remember what my first one cost but I think it was around NZ$350, it was about half the price of a standard pump anyway.


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## gazman

He did say that the picture was of the one that he uses, and that the one for sale is new.


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## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> He did say that the picture was of the one that he uses, and that the one for sale is new.


 Yeah, I had another look after my post and spotted my mistake......I thought if I didn't say anything then no one will know, but in my defence I'm just a dumb taper


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## A smooth finish

Did any body ever post a video of them using there columbia tube.


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## icerock drywall




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## icerock drywall

this tube works great .I put a d handle on it and the red tube has a bigger hole so I use this one to fill my box tools...Also I took a foot of the tube:thumbup:


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## walltools

moore said:


> Tape pro,,Can am,, or,,Big shot tube ???? THANKS! :blink:


 
Wall Tools has a collection of Compound Applicator Tubes for you to choose from: http://www.walltools.com/products/drywall-tools/taping-systems/compound-mud-tube.html 

* We carry Blue Line USA (same as TapePro)
* We don't offer Can-Am (but instead offer a higher quality Compound Applicator by Columbia Taping Tools)
* We also offer the Better-than-Ever (which is the Big Shot)

Each brand offers something a bit different to the end user. For example, the Blue Line USA Compound Applicator has a much larger barrel diameter at say 4" or so versus other brands at 2.5". The Blue Line USA Tube is only available in one length, whereas the Columbia and BTE both come in a multitude of lengths. Blue Line USA powerder coats their barrell, Columbia anodizes their barrell, and BTE paints their barrell.

When you want to get inside the tube, the Blue Line USA comes apart much easier with no-tools removal on the nose and butt. The Columbia and BTE require the removal of a few screws on both the head and/or butt. Cleaning doesn't require removing taking the unit apart however. Since the tube is essentially a syringe, just suck up water from a bucket and expell for cleaning.

I like the smooth operation of the Columbia and the fact that the nose cone and nozzle are completely billet aluminum - not plastic. The BTE Tubes are a good value. The Blue Line USA Applicator is unique and offers a lot of features.


*Blue Line USA Compound Applicator (BLU-CA-T)*



*$179.00*

---------------------------


*Columbia Taping Tools Compound Mud Tube (COL-CMT24, CMT36, CMT42)* - Available in 24, 36 and 42 inch lengths.



*24" - $152.00*
*36" - $179.00*
*42" - $187.00*

---------------------------

*Better-than-Ever Compound Tubes (BTE-CT)* - Available in 18, 24, 36 and 48 inch lengths.




*18" - $124.54*
*24" - $135.00*
*36" - $156.26*
*42" - $161.33*


If you have any other questions never hesitate to call us at 877-WAL-TOOL (877-925-8665) Monday through Friday from 8am-5pm Pacific, or visit our website at www.walltools.com.

Thanks guys!


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## walltools

PrecisionTaping said:


> Ya sure....If I wanted to spend 5 billion dollars, drag an air hose around with me everywhere I went and have an air compressor going off every 10 seconds. :jester:


You can pick up an Apla-Tech Continuous Flow Box Handle Complete (head, handle and trigger), and two Slim Line Flat Boxes (10" and 12") for $1701.90 with the Drywall Talk discount. 

Of course, you will need to power the tools with a Graco Mark V or Graco Mark 10 - a little less than 5 billion - but still a nice chunk of change at $6,299 and $6,899 respectively.

Call it $8,000 for a brand new Apla-Tech CFS Box System and Graco Pump.

But I know what you mean... sometimes $8,000 might as well be 5 billion. 

The cool thing about having a Mark V though is that you can spray Mud like paint, and at about 3300 psi you're pumping just under a gallon and a half per minute. Makes fast work of spraying level 5 and also fast work of boxing large jobs.

I watched two guys running two Apla-Tech CFS Slim Line Flat Boxes at once off one Graco Mark X Pump. They were about 100 ft down a hallway and both working one room. One guy on stilts and the other below him. They were absolutely flying. It was a hospital project with room after room after room. These two were flying in one room and out the other, never stopping to refill their mud. The Graco Mark X was picking up out of a 55 Gallon Drum of premix that was sitting on a drywall cart.

There Apla-Tech CFS Box System for two handles and two boxes was $2,570.00. The Superintendent told me that they saved about 40% on the job just using the Apla-Tech system alone (all the while he had a big smille on his face).

But sure... it's not for everyone. Just anyone looking to not have to refill their tools every X feet. If you have massive footage to do, whether one or two projects, or constantly, you can't afford not to evaluate the system.


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## PrecisionTaping

Look at you go tonight! Just on the ball!
Staying late at the office? Woman kick you out of the house or what? :jester: Hehe. Just teasing.

I agree with you on that one though. 
Although, I'm not a huge fan on the appla-tech system it's not because of it's functionality, I have operated the tools and I know first hand they work great.
It's just not suited to the line of work I do.
Don't have enough footage.

Like you said, depending on your situation "you can't afford not to evaluate the system."


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## chris

Nice pitch:thumbsup:, if I was a bigdog I would get one. Great explanation of the use


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## DLSdrywall

If i ever have that much footage i'll have my own drywall company at that point and they can get there own bloody tools. $8000 It better come with a robot to do all the work too!!:whistling2:


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## Mr.Brightstar

Drywall_King said:


> Buy a tape Pro or Blue Line Usa they are thicker and the end comes off so you can clean it everytime


whats the best way to clean out the mud tubes?


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## Mr.Brightstar

Mr.Brightstar said:


> whats the best way to clean out the mud tubes?


And boxes, how is the best way to clean them out?


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## moore

Mr.Brightstar said:


> And boxes, how is the best way to clean them out?


It's not that big a deal Glenn ...If I'm shy on water I just wrap the box in a plastic bag till I get home . Most times I just place them in a bucket of water Till I find time to clean them out. Lube Is the key to keeping the boxes well maintained ...I found that out the hard way.


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## Magic

icerock drywall said:


> Also i took a foot of the tube:thumbup:


yikes


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