# What is going on?????



## vibow (Aug 21, 2014)

Building my own home. Installed the drywall that was glued and screwed last year. House has been framed and insulated for 4 years with heat/AC (geothermal). Hired out the mud/tape and it looked like crap when they were done. They came back 2nd time after I found they sanded all the way down to the tape in spots. They came back 4th time after still seeing screw dimples and joints. 5th time they sprayed mud over the entire surface after still seeing every joint after putting primer in one room. So much water was in the mud that I could see every joint and screw after spraying. Humidity was 98% and I sucked over 30 gallons of water with a dehumidifier over 2-1/2 days. Know I am noticing the Paper tape edges cracking in the corners. They came back and replaced those sections without sanding! I have also found numerous screw pops since. I pulled the screws out and placed new around 1" from the original, to now find they are also popped. Has the integrity of the drywall been lost because of the moisture? I actually taped 2 rooms myself before hiring out with no issues noted. Has the drywall been compromised from all the water applied? Has anyone ever had this problem?


----------



## vibow (Aug 21, 2014)

One thing that just came to mind: Since the drywall has mud covering it, what is the chance of the mud under the screw head softening up and causing the area to become loose or the screw to pull thru? I looked at it and found that you could push against the drywall slightly and see the mud bulge outward versus the mud on top of the screw cracking. It held tight up till I mudded over the screw heads.Found out that the contractor sprayed severally water down lightweight joint compound.


----------



## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

hard to say! bad trades work not jest tapers. bad conditions/materials. who know?...


----------



## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Id tell you to go talk to the guys who hung it regarding the screw pops. 
The cracking in the corners is often times from too much material in them.
What did you expect the humidity to be at after spraying 30+ gallons of water onto the walls?


----------



## vibow (Aug 21, 2014)

I hung the rock. The hired person who taped the joints sprayed the mud on. I cut a corner out and noticed the opposite. Hardly any mud was found under the tape. Did not notice the tape cracking until after they sprayed the mud on. The tape is clearly detaching. Biggest question is what is causing the screws to pop even after they old screws are removed, with new installed. They only pop after mudded over.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Was the house built during winter? Damp framing, Damp drywall, Sounds like you hired drywallers who did not know there trade and yes all that waters a massive issue.

Unfortunately this is common, houses need to built and damp controlled through the lining and drywall and taping, painting processes with dehumids and heaters or after a few years the house slowly dries out and you get what you now have to various levels of damage.

Sorry to hear whats happened, I would guess its quite distressing and there is a member here who just loves fixing houses like this, His name is Moore. :whistling2:


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> Sorry to hear whats happened, I would guess its quite distressing and there is a member here who just loves fixing houses like this, His name is Moore. :whistling2:


I think you just jumped in the $hit


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> I think you just jumped in the $hit


Lol, Head first :yes:


----------



## vibow (Aug 21, 2014)

The house was framed in the summer over 4 years ago and put under roof. The walls were foamed with open cell foam, with 5/8" drywall placed on the ceiling. Cellulose was blown in the attic after. The house sat under 47% dehumidification at 75F for several years until the drywall was actually attached to the sidewalls this spring. I now know the mudder does not have a clue (after the fact) but am scratching my head on why the rock screws keep pulling in areas and if it can be fixed without replacing the rock or if anyone has seen this type of issue. I know it is sh$t but also know that some issues are not always what they seem. I been dealing with this guy for over a month and need to get the project moving. Humidity was consistent until the mud was sprayed. Do not know how much water was placed in it but know I had to suck over 30 gallons of water to get back to 47% humidity. We typically do not perform this around here so am uncertain if this was "normal". Thinking if I did not have a industrial dehumidifier I would be dealing with mold issues. Figured if anyone would know what is happening or if that was normal it would be you guys :thumbsup:.


----------



## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Sounds to me that the screws that keep popping are on studs that are crowned inward, pull them and don't replace them. Its a framing issue that wasn't addressed when the board was installed.


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Sounds like the Drywall guy tried to help you out honestly by level 5ing the entire surface to appease you. If you spray mud you have to thin it down a lot! That is a non issue as it is generally sprayed thin and it dries quickly. A problem that I see perhaps could be the fact that the job is insulated too well and sealed in the moisture causing problems especially if you collected that much water. That tells me the job was sealed up too much during the finishing. The job has to breath naturally! If you keep putting screws in and they pop/pull through the rock then something is holding the rock out behind it! If I were you I would take pictures and post them on here so we can pick it apart. It isn't always the drywall guys fault!


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Whats open cell foam?? If that sticks out further than the studs and holds the drywall out then that will make popped screws.


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

taper71 said:


> Sounds to me that the screws that keep popping are on studs that are crowned inward, pull them and don't replace them. Its a framing issue that wasn't addressed when the board was installed.



I second this. Most of the time when a screw keeps popping. You are trying to pull the board down in a place that is not level with the surrounding area. also this light weight rock is crap...more air pockets makes it more like a sponge.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Was the board properly glued?


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

vibow said:


> Building my own home. Installed the drywall that was glued and screwed last year. House has been framed and insulated for 4 years with heat/AC (geothermal). Hired out the mud/tape and it looked like crap when they were done. They came back 2nd time after I found they sanded all the way down to the tape in spots. They came back 4th time after still seeing screw dimples and joints. 5th time they sprayed mud over the entire surface after still seeing every joint after putting primer in one room. So much water was in the mud that I could see every joint and screw after spraying. Humidity was 98% and I sucked over 30 gallons of water with a dehumidifier over 2-1/2 days. Know I am noticing the Paper tape edges cracking in the corners. They came back and replaced those sections without sanding! I have also found numerous screw pops since. I pulled the screws out and placed new around 1" from the original, to now find they are also popped. Has the integrity of the drywall been lost because of the moisture? I actually taped 2 rooms myself before hiring out with no issues noted. Has the drywall been compromised from all the water applied? Has anyone ever had this problem?


Do you have a basement???? Poured walls?


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/drywall_imperfections.htm


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

moore said:


> http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/drywall_imperfections.htm


Interesting. I never thought of the air pressure before. I had a door keep slamming on me this week, from the air pressure. No worries though I use the right amount of glue. :thumbsup:


----------



## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

moore said:


> Was the board properly glued?


I agree sounds to me like the glue was holding the board out when it was installed. Causing issues with the screws later, from glue shrinkage.


----------



## FAB (May 6, 2014)

screw pops on glued rock. That makes me think there some really warped framing or screws were broke through paper and glue dried with the rock of the studs. removing all the screws and replacing them may have made it worse by putting more pressure.Its pretty hard to get screw pops with properly glued rock.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

HACK JOB..... My price just went up!!


----------



## evolve991 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Interesting. I never thought of the air pressure before. I had a door keep slamming on me this week, from the air pressure. No worries though I use the right amount of glue. :thumbsup:


I was about to ask if you glued it. How did you apply the glue? Not being a jerk but if you drag the tip of the tube thru your bead it's pointless...has to be a good _actual bead_ of glue to bridge gaps and adhere to the rock. Screwing it again after the glue is dry could be the 2nd popping problem.
How deep is your nosecone set? If it's just on the edge of breaking the paper then vibrations can send it all the way through. If your place is so airtight it shudders when you shut doors that's enough pressure to eventually pop screws.:yes:

Just to clarify: By pops you mean screws actually pulling _into _the rock? Not the heads sticking out above the surface?


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

evolve991 said:


> I was about to ask if you glued it. How did you apply the glue? Not being a jerk but if you drag the tip of the tube thru your bead it's pointless...has to be a good _actual bead_ of glue to bridge gaps and adhere to the rock. Screwing it again after the glue is dry could be the 2nd popping problem.
> How deep is your nosecone set? If it's just on the edge of breaking the paper then vibrations can send it all the way through. If your place is so airtight it shudders when you shut doors that's enough pressure to eventually pop screws.:yes:
> 
> Just to clarify: By pops you mean screws actually pulling _into _the rock? Not the heads sticking out above the surface?



My beads of glue are about 1/4" thick. three 8" to 10" beads every joist or stud. I place the beads of glue in between where the screws are. 

To clarify vido is the one having issues with this. My firs thought was screws popping through light weight board, thin beads of glue.


----------



## evolve991 (Jan 24, 2008)

........in between where the screws are .......NO NO NO 
That doesn't let the screw pull the rock _into_ the glue completely. 
1/4" bead :thumbsup: YES....morse code beads NOOOOOO
Glue needs to be the whole way across studs, even under the bevels, and globs that squeeze out between wiped down ( spit on ya fingah to keep'em clean) if it's messy cuz ya had to take it back down then cut it right next time! We even glue the break ( we call it caulking the joint just to keep the confusion down) sometimes. 

Don't take this as an insult, I'm just aynull about glue:yes:

PS: Everyone is complaining about the new lightweight board. Maybe rock made by other companies is lousy but I've had nothing but good luck with the new stuff. Especially USG. Lafarge used to be _the worst_ but thier new stuff is better. National/Gold Bond has ridiculous beveled edges but is otherwise great. USG is awesome now, we hang 16s with no sag in the middle, the tensile strength is incredible, I can rip an inch , 1 INCH, off a sheet and it comes off in one piece!! As for screw pops there's a little thing on the end of the gun called a nosecone that allows for different depths of countersink.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

evolve991 said:


> ........in between where the screws are .......NO NO NO
> That doesn't let the screw pull the rock _into_ the glue completely.
> 1/4" bead :thumbsup: YES....morse code beads NOOOOOO
> Glue needs to be the whole way across studs, even under the bevels, and globs that squeeze out between wiped down ( spit on ya fingah to keep'em clean) if it's messy cuz ya had to take it back down then cut it right next time! We even glue the break ( we call it caulking the joint just to keep the confusion down) sometimes.
> ...


Glue beneath the bevel?
YA say breaks?....Please tell me your not gluing the butts!
Screw pops are mainly caused by lumber shrinkage due to wet/green lumber drying out...Or even worse a batch of wet board will cause a horrible case of pops.. JS!


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

And if you have glue under a screw............POP


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> And if you have glue under a screw............POP


And If there's no glue used at all! The screws can still pop! 

I get what your sayin Cazna and your right. The glue [if glued heavy] can shrink back causing the board to pull back. BUT! I've walked through homes ..Huge homes! Where there was no glue used at all...and every field screw was popped!


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

I believe the main problem today is the lumber! One of our builders who studied pine trees in college pointed out the difference in the old lumber and new lumber in one of our renovation jobs the other day. The old lumber had probably 20 tight obvious grains to the wood where as the new lumber had no noticeable grain at all. He said the trees today are being brought up too fast using chemicals etc. which makes the lumber weaker and more prone to twisting/shrinking...... Again, to the OP you need to post pictures of what is going on before you play the blame game.


----------



## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Como se llama los taperos ? Es muy mal jale.


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

cazna said:


> And if you have glue under a screw............POP



Yes you are right...hard for plp to grasp this concept in the good ole USA


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> I believe the main problem today is the lumber! One of our builders who studied pine trees in college pointed out the difference in the old lumber and new lumber in one of our renovation jobs the other day. The old lumber had probably 20 tight obvious grains to the wood where as the new lumber had no noticeable grain at all. He said the trees today are being brought up too fast using chemicals etc. which makes the lumber weaker and more prone to twisting/shrinking...... Again, to the OP you need to post pictures of what is going on before you play the blame game.


He is right, but its not chemicals. Trees are genetically altered to be fast grown. Its about money. The faster you can grow the more you make. Just like the light weight rock. They did not give a chit about taking 10 lbs off our shoulders, but they did care about making a product with less material and more profit


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

evolve991 said:


> ........in between where the screws are .......NO NO NO
> That doesn't let the screw pull the rock _into_ the glue completely.
> 1/4" bead :thumbsup: YES....morse code beads NOOOOOO
> Glue needs to be the whole way across studs, even under the bevels, and globs that squeeze out between wiped down ( spit on ya fingah to keep'em clean) if it's messy cuz ya had to take it back down then cut it right next time! We even glue the break ( we call it caulking the joint just to keep the confusion down) sometimes.
> ...


Drywall is not a structural product. More glue does not solve the problems. In some cases it makes them worse. However the structure decides to move...that's what its going to do, no matter how much glue you put. Its going to make your joints pucker, nails pop or tapes pull. Glue is very good for a solid dry house, but chit for one that moves and has high moisture wood.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cracker said:


> He is right, but its not chemicals. Trees are genetically altered to be fast grown. Its about money. The faster you can grow the more you make. Just like the light weight rock. They did not give a chit about taking 10 lbs off our shoulders, but they did care about making a product with less material and more profit


The L/W Board helps them cut transportation cost!

That's why they make It!:yes:


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

moore said:


> The L/W Board helps them cut transportation cost!
> 
> That's why they make It!:yes:



No moore you have it all wrong man...so so wrong...they make it because they care about us. You know the big wigs have such a good hart. :yes:...they could not take seeing us work so hard...they had to help in someway


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

evolve991 said:


> ........in between where the screws are .......NO NO NO
> That doesn't let the screw pull the rock _into_ the glue completely.
> 1/4" bead :thumbsup: YES....morse code beads NOOOOOO
> Glue needs to be the whole way across studs, even under the bevels, and globs that squeeze out between wiped down ( spit on ya fingah to keep'em clean) if it's messy cuz ya had to take it back down then cut it right next time! We even glue the break ( we call it caulking the joint just to keep the confusion down) sometimes.
> ...


I've been looking for the last hour for the website where I saw the information about gluing drywall. I Remember it saying 3, 8 to 10 inch beads every 48 inches, and no glue around screws. If I find it I will post the link here.


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I've been looking for the last hour for the website where I saw the information about gluing drywall. I Remember it saying 3, 8 to 10 inch beads every 48 inches, and no glue around screws. If I find it I will post the link here.



If you find that from a USA source...ill chit a brick. Know its in a few gypsum handbooks from overseas.


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

This is hows its done.


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

cracker said:


> If you find that from a USA source...ill chit a brick. Know its in a few gypsum handbooks from overseas.


I can't find it. It stuck with me when i read it. I cant find anything about glue pattern.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> This is hows its done.


No its not, Heres how its REALLY done :whistling2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36X7etTqFrA


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

yep that's the way :yes:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> yep that's the way :yes:


No screws no pops huh.


----------



## evolve991 (Jan 24, 2008)

moore said:


> Glue beneath the bevel?
> YA say breaks?....Please tell me your not gluing the butts!
> Screw pops are mainly caused by lumber shrinkage due to wet/green lumber drying out...Or even worse a batch of wet board will cause a horrible case of pops.. JS!


Yeah Moore glue under the bevel. Not sure why it would be a problem, we hang the sheet immediately after gluing so there's no obstruction between rock and lumber. And _how exactly_ does glue cause screw pops?!?? Either the wood shrinks or expands or it doesn't. Glue keeps the rock attached regardless of movement. Yes we glue butts sometimes,especially if the studs run way crooked. Not to mention on butt boards. Glue only causes pops if you screw it AGAIN AFTER it's dried. I guess we'll see how the new water soluble 'green' glue does over time but the real stuff was called "Miracle" for a reason. 
As for the LW yes I know it has dikk to do with being nice to us hangers _but_ it happens to be to our advantage. Not sure about other places but ours cuts better, spans better and extends our careers a few more years:thumbup:
*IF *any of the methods I just mentioned caused callbacks or complaints from finishers we'd have changed methods already. 

No drywall isn't a structural material but builders sure do rely on it to keep flimsy framing in rack!!!


----------



## evolve991 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I've been looking for the last hour for the website where I saw the information about gluing drywall. I Remember it saying 3, 8 to 10 inch beads every 48 inches, and no glue around screws. If I find it I will post the link here.


I was shown a "Drywall Guide" that insisted you leave an 1/8" gap between ALL SHEETS. Hope the author got a good check for writing that but it didn't translate to the real world. The Facts On The Ground are that you can only have TOO much glue if it's oozing out and drying in globs that the finisher has to cut off. Why it would _cause_ a screw to pop has me baffled. If it were true we'd have been reamed out for it by now. Maybe 23 years isn't long enough? 
Research and Development in a static setting is one thing but real world conditions are another. Books are for people who make a living reading books. And I'm a damn bookworm at home but you don't see me trying to use wormhole technology or scifi tricks on the job....well,not many....:blink:

As for the OPs problem(which we've drifted way off) I'm not sure what's wrong either. But it's obvious that someone did something wrong.


----------



## vibow (Aug 21, 2014)

*Called a differant contractor*

Called a different guy to get a second opinion only. He was their for almost two hours without charging :thumbsup:. Even cut some small areas out, as he was also interested. Told me the drywall being slightly loose appeared to be a combination of slightly warped studs and glue shrinkage. He was not sure if the drywall paper was compromised when the level 5 was applied. Another issue noted could be when replacing these screws. New screws were placed thru the level 5 with the old screws removed. The new screws could be pushing the paper in further than normal because of the mud on top. When the screws are mudded over, the moisture causes the mud/paper under the screw head to soften and re-pop (from being on the edge of the threshold). Made sense continuing on.... 

It appears that the original contractor sprayed a layer of mud over the walls to try to and blend everything in versus going back over everything. He looked dumbfounded when I shined a light across the wall. After he sprayed the level 5, I guess the divots still could be seen the next morning (mud was not fully dried). He then proceeded to place spackle (the kind that is pink then turns white when dry) into these divots as my wife noted talking with the contractor on what the "pink" globs were. When the level 5 finally dried the spackle did not shrink as much and left high spots. The guy giving his opinion noted that they probably used the spackle since it dried quicker but it would not have been his first choice to use such product. Made sense as the raised spots appear to be "popped" screws. continuing on.... 

He cut a piece of the corner out were the tape was cracking and pulling away and noted that there was hardly any mud under or on top of the tape . Also stated that the original contractor used a 4" knife on the corners. He told me he uses at least a 6" but that was not the reason for the issue. He recommended cutting the bad sections out (like the contractor had started) but the right way would be to remove and re-tape. Wanted him to perform the job originally but was booked. Tried calling the contractor but has not returned message yet.......:cursing:.


----------



## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

evolve991 said:


> I was shown a "Drywall Guide" that insisted you leave an 1/8" gap between ALL SHEETS. Hope the author got a good check for writing that but it didn't translate to the real world. The Facts On The Ground are that you can only have TOO much glue if it's oozing out and drying in globs that the finisher has to cut off. Why it would _cause_ a screw to pop has me baffled. If it were true we'd have been reamed out for it by now. Maybe 23 years isn't long enough?
> Research and Development in a static setting is one thing but real world conditions are another. Books are for people who make a living reading books. And I'm a damn bookworm at home but you don't see me trying to use wormhole technology or scifi tricks on the job....well,not many....:blink:
> 
> As for the OPs problem(which we've drifted way off) I'm not sure what's wrong either. But it's obvious that someone did something wrong.


When i stated about 30 years ago,all ceiling,walls and "dabbed" walls had a nail (remember them) between each sheet. Pain in the ass to keep pulling them out though :thumbsup:


----------



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

evolve991 said:


> I was shown a "Drywall Guide" that insisted you leave an 1/8" gap between ALL SHEETS. Hope the author got a good check for writing that but it didn't translate to the real world. The Facts On The Ground are that you can only have TOO much glue if it's oozing out and drying in globs that the finisher has to cut off. Why it would _cause_ a screw to pop has me baffled. If it were true we'd have been reamed out for it by now. Maybe 23 years isn't long enough?
> Research and Development in a static setting is one thing but real world conditions are another. Books are for people who make a living reading books. And I'm a damn bookworm at home but you don't see me trying to use wormhole technology or scifi tricks on the job....well,not many....:blink:
> 
> As for the OPs problem(which we've drifted way off) I'm not sure what's wrong either. But it's obvious that someone did something wrong.


Drywall, by design, is supposed to be gapped. The penetration of the compound helps hold/lock the panel edges in place preventing inward or outward shifting. Think of old wood lath and plaster.....what would have happened if the lath was installed tightly together and the brown coat and plaster was applied over it? 

Obviously, there are areas that should be gapped but not filled with mud, such as an apex. this should be allowed to move and flex. Rarely does anyone install as specified. After all, it's all about speed.


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

evolve991 said:


> Yeah Moore glue under the bevel. Not sure why it would be a problem, we hang the sheet immediately after gluing so there's no obstruction between rock and lumber. And _how exactly_ does glue cause screw pops?!?? Either the wood shrinks or expands or it doesn't. Glue keeps the rock attached regardless of movement. Yes we glue butts sometimes,especially if the studs run way crooked. Not to mention on butt boards. Glue only causes pops if you screw it AGAIN AFTER it's dried. I guess we'll see how the new water soluble 'green' glue does over time but the real stuff was called "Miracle" for a reason.
> As for the LW yes I know it has dikk to do with being nice to us hangers _but_ it happens to be to our advantage. Not sure about other places but ours cuts better, spans better and extends our careers a few more years:thumbup:
> *IF *any of the methods I just mentioned caused callbacks or complaints from finishers we'd have changed methods already.
> 
> No drywall isn't a structural material but builders sure do rely on it to keep flimsy framing in rack!!!



Yes that is part of the problem you see. The rock stays with the wood. However the screw does not follow the same path. When wood dries or shrinks the wood stud and rock pull in. Metal does not follow this system of shrinking...wood dries or shrinks around metal. That is why you get whole house screw pops. Glue is only good for wood with less than 15% moisture.


----------



## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Ditch the glue and use 5/8 . Screw it off,, no problems:thumbsup: 1/2 sucks balls


----------



## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

chris said:


> Ditch the glue and use 5/8 . Screw it off,, no problems:thumbsup: 1/2 sucks balls


That right there made me laugh, Chris!

Thanks for a simple pleasure!


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cracker said:


> Yes that is part of the problem you see. The rock stays with the wood. However the screw does not follow the same path. When wood dries or shrinks the wood stud and rock pull in. Metal does not follow this system of shrinking...wood dries or shrinks around metal. That is why you get whole house screw pops. Glue is only good for wood with less than 15% moisture.


whatever you use (steel or wood) the glue = less screw = less pops for wood


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Again to the OP, we need pictures lol. finishing the corners with 4" knife is perfectly acceptable and there shouldn't be much mud under or over the tape honestly. As long as it doesn't blister due to no mud then it is fine. The original finisher may have used mechanical tools which coat much tighter. The other contractor saying all the tapes need to be pulled out is a bit extreme.... Either he is right and the entire job is completely hacked all up OR.... He is trying to create a job for himself. And most wall/ceiling screws will pop if you put anaother screw right next to it later down the road. Too many builders/HO's think they know our trade and they dont at all. I automatically will defend the drywall guy because we always get the shaft. Again, we need pictures to see the real problem.


----------



## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

thefinisher said:


> Again to the OP, we need pictures lol. finishing the corners with 4" knife is perfectly acceptable and there shouldn't be much mud under or over the tape honestly. As long as it doesn't blister due to no mud then it is fine. The original finisher may have used mechanical tools which coat much tighter. The other contractor saying all the tapes need to be pulled out is a bit extreme.... Either he is right and the entire job is completely hacked all up OR.... He is trying to create a job for himself. And most wall/ceiling screws will pop if you put anaother screw right next to it later down the road. Too many builders/HO's think they know our trade and they dont at all. I automatically will defend the drywall guy because we always get the shaft. Again, we need pictures to see the real problem.


Well said TF! I would have to agree. Anytime I hear someone say "I'm building my own house....." It throws up a red flag. Yes, there are hacks out there, but if you want the best job done, hire a professional... and I'm not just referring to the drywaller.


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

keke said:


> whatever you use (steel or wood) the glue = less screw = less pops for wood


My company has drywall over 10k homes the the southern USA. Come over here and glue on our wet wood...it will change your mind fast.:yes:


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

cracker said:


> My company has drywall over 10k homes the the southern USA. Come over here and glue on our wet wood...it will change your mind fast.:yes:


Tract housing?


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Tract housing?



I have 3 divisions, lite commercial, custom and tract spec/apartments.


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cracker said:


> My company has drywall over 10k homes the the southern USA. Come over here and glue on our wet wood...it will change your mind fast.:yes:


that is not a glue or screw problem.... it's the wet wood 
you will have the same problem no matter how many screws/how much glue you use


----------



## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

keke said:


> that is not a glue or screw problem.... it's the wet wood
> you will have the same problem no matter how many screws/how much glue you use


Well yea. That was part of my point. Screwing thru glue only works is you have nice dry wood.


----------



## evolve991 (Jan 24, 2008)

forestbhoy said:


> When i stated about 30 years ago,all ceiling,walls and "dabbed" walls had a nail (remember them) between each sheet. Pain in the ass to keep pulling them out though :thumbsup:


Back in the 90s we got work on a big project where they were doing this. We never even sat our coffee down. Slung gravel getting out of there before the super saw us :thumbsup:


----------



## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

vibow said:


> I hung the rock. The hired person who taped the joints sprayed the mud on. I cut a corner out and noticed the opposite. Hardly any mud was found under the tape. Did not notice the tape cracking until after they sprayed the mud on. The tape is clearly detaching. Biggest question is what is causing the screws to pop even after they old screws are removed, with new installed. They only pop after mudded over.


I was talking about material buildup over the tape causing the hairline cracks. Or maybe the drying conditions were bad when the house was drywalled. 

So if you pulled the screws that popped and correctly set a screw on both sides of the hole and it still pops than you might have a moisture problem. Whats your average humidity running with your geothermal system? 

*I'd love to hear the tapers version of how this job has played out. Get him on here. *


----------



## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Magic said:


> I'd love to hear the tapers version of how this job has played out. Get him on here.



Oh yeah!......


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

tell ya right now you got a sh&tty job from the word go; add the humidity and that is the beginning of the end


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Earlier on this thread glue patterns were being discussed so I shot this today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm_p36WLbcI&feature=youtu.be


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I cant get the youtube thing to embed .


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

I cant check out at wall tools.


----------



## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

gazman said:


> Earlier on this thread glue patterns were being discussed so I shot this today.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm_p36WLbcI&feature=youtu.be


How many screws do you put in the field?


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

none


----------

