# Taping angles (angle head vs flusher)



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

OK guys,
I think this topic hasn't been discussed properly in the past so I ask everyone to bring at the table their own system from A to Z (eg. what tool(s) you prefer to use, why, how you do it etc.) for all kind of jobs (small and big)
have fun writing


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I will start, Im a but rushed to type much and i was going to add this to the mudrunner thread we were on but since you laid the table and wanted pics keke :whistling2:

Pic 1, Unsanded 3.5 flusher.
Pic 2, Sanded.
Pic 3, Unsanded
Pic 4, Sanded.
Pic 5, Good eh.
Pic 6, A job pic, Coving ready to go up.
Pic 7, My Firesurround i made.
And pic 8, Thats called the barber, Cold air coming off valley farm land getting forced between to hills heading down the river towards the sea in the morn, Very cold and apparently rare, Only happens in a few places on earth.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cheers Cazna for the pics and notes. #8 blew me up you live in a beautiful area cazna :thumbup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> cheers Cazna for the pics and notes. #8 blew me up you live in a beautiful area cazna :thumbup:


Thanks, That really is sweet way of doing corners keke, You know how it was done, Thanks to buck on that one, I feel like a bit of a dipsh!t though, Hes been saying it all along and its takin me this long to try it after all the other ways ive tryed with the most expensive tools out there. Is it the best corner i have done, YES IT IS. No rounded paper centre :yes: So thanks again mr 2buck :thumbsup:

That Barber flows like dry ice keke, Its moving, And heres a view into a valley at the job im on, Some rain forest.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

I was an angle box user and thanks to you and Gaz I switched to a mudrunner which I found out is the fastest and easiest way.I tried 2buck's way and can't do it for me the CT is hard to use,might be my fault or just lots of problems with it: doesn't suck the mud,it's hard to run inside corners with tapepro internal angle


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

So, tried something I've never done before on a little basement job today. When I taped it out I forgot my 2 1/2 " Flusher but I had my 3" NS angle head with me so I glazed with that and then finished with the CP tube, corner applicator, and 2 1/2 flusher on a handle. Finished out really nice. Don't know if this is the new way or not but will try it again.:thumbsup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Cazna, what do you apply the mud with a CP tube? BTW it looks sweet :thumbsup:. Love how simple eveything is finished there. You would hate to finish our houses I think. :furious:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> I was an angle box user and thanks to you and Gaz I switched to a mudrunner which I found out is the fastest and easiest way.I tried 2buck's way and can't do it for me the CT is hard to use,might be my fault or just lots of problems with it: doesn't suck the mud,it's hard to run inside corners with tapepro internal angle


Use a pump to fill the cp keke, Whats the tapepro internal angle??

Nothing wrong with the runner its just i couldnt seem to ever get rid of round paper corners, This way i did, When i use anglehead for last coat it always seemed like the point of the anglehead blades was taking all the load against the paper in the corner, The flusher spreads that loading, Hence mud in the corner that sands square so for me, Its a sharper corner with better paper cover than an anglehead while still remaining quite flat and not overloaded like in the knife pic.



thefinisher said:


> Cazna, what do you apply the mud with a CP tube? BTW it looks sweet :thumbsup:. Love how simple eveything is finished there. You would hate to finish our houses I think. :furious:


 It was a tapepro cp tube and internal mud head TF.

Yeah mate, Some of the house pics on here look amazing, Hard and costly way to build though.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> Use a pump to fill the cp keke, Whats the tapepro internal angle??
> 
> Nothing wrong with the runner its just i couldnt seem to ever get rid of round paper corners, This way i did, When i use anglehead for last coat it always seemed like the point of the anglehead blades was taking all the load against the paper in the corner, The flusher spreads that loading, Hence mud in the corner that sands square so for me, Its a sharper corner with better paper cover than an anglehead while still remaining quite flat and not overloaded like in the knife pic.


The pump.......I don't really wanna use it, CP should fill properly without a pump, supposed to make my life easier not harder. It's actually faster and easier to tape with bazooka and after that run the mudrunner 

And RE: tapepro internal angle this is what iIm talking about


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thats the same cp and head that i used, It sucks ok and the mudhead seemed to glide along easy enough. I did fill it with the pump though which is easier than drawing mud from bucket. Do you have a 3.5 flusher?? Just try it on a small job..............The runner wont sulk at you.............Just leave it at home so it cant see


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> Thats the same cp and head that i used, It sucks ok and the mudhead seemed to glide along easy enough. I did fill it with the pump though which is easier than drawing mud from bucket. Do you have a 3.5 flusher?? Just try it on a small job..............The runner wont sulk at you.............Just leave it at home so it cant see


mate mine doesn't suck 100% and this i can tell you SUCKS already spent extra $$ to make it work and no results :furious:
I only have 3'' flusher


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

keke said:


> mate mine doesn't suck 100% and this i can tell you SUCKS already spent extra $$ to make it work and no results :furious:
> I only have 3'' flusher


I have a mudshark and when thats on it doesnt suck so well either, I have found the faster you draw it the better it sucks, Muds gotta be fairly thin as well, And the tube needs lubed from time to time or they get all dry and crusty and stops sucking so well.

Also i think you can tighten the plunger up and it spreads the seals?? Maybe?? Your not silly though and prob tryed all that.

If you can get a 3.5 flusher cheap enough shes worth a crack, My next place is all square set, No cove, With a recessed ceiling, It needs to perfect as and i will be doing this again for sure.

Actually hang on?? I presume its a tapepro tube you have?? I have cam ams and they arnt as good as tapepros, If its a tapepro then im sure tomg could figure it out.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I spoke to Tom a while ago about the tube not sucking up mud. He commented that the rubber on the piston does not like a lube that has a solvent in it. A solvent will cause the rubber to deteriorate, and stop it from sucking. Sprays like WD40, and Lanox have a solvent. Tightening the bolt will not flare the piston and give more suck.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Lanox has solvent?? Its working for me, But i think they recommend silicone spray dont they??


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

> Nothing wrong with the runner its just i couldnt seem to ever get rid of round paper corners, This way i did, When i use anglehead for last coat it always seemed like the point of the anglehead blades was taking all the load against the paper in the corner, The flusher spreads that loading, Hence mud in the corner that sands square so for me, Its a sharper corner with better paper cover than an anglehead while still remaining quite flat and not overloaded like in the knife


Cazna,

Are your angle head blades adjusted to where it will leave more mud? You should be able to apply a heavier feathered fill ( as in your pic ) by slightly lowering the apex of the blades which in turn can be sanded out to a nice tight angle, as you like to do. 

My current method, is DM 2.5" then the NS 3.5" full tension with Mud Runner and or, (TP) CP tube. 

I may have to check into one of these flushers. The CP tube surprised me, maybe this will as well:yes:


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

gazman said:


> I spoke to Tom a while ago about the tube not sucking up mud. He commented that the rubber on the piston does not like a lube that has a solvent in it. A solvent will cause the rubber to deteriorate, and stop it from sucking. Sprays like WD40, and Lanox have a solvent. Tightening the bolt will not flare the piston and give more suck.


I've been using the All-Wall brand spray....I better check and see if it has solvents in it? It shouldn't?


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

cazna said:


> I have a mudshark and when thats on it doesnt suck so well either, I have found the faster you draw it the better it sucks, Muds gotta be fairly thin as well, And the tube needs lubed from time to time or they get all dry and crusty and stops sucking so well.
> 
> Also i think you can tighten the plunger up and it spreads the seals?? Maybe?? Your not silly though and prob tryed all that.
> 
> ...


I tried all of the above and I only have this to say:sorry all tapepro cp lovers but this is not the best tool on the market.In my opinion the best cp is quick fill pump and the new one comes with nozzle to fit the angle head


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

cazna said:


> Lanox has solvent?? Its working for me, But i think they recommend silicone spray dont they??



Yes, Tom said that they did some testing on it. He had big hopes for Lanox but it did not work out.

I cant remember where I read it but I seem to recall a tool manufacturer advertising that their rubbers are solvent resistant.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

keke said:


> I was an angle box user and thanks to you and Gaz I switched to a mudrunner which I found out is the fastest and easiest way.I tried 2buck's way and can't do it for me the CT is hard to use,might be my fault or just lots of problems with it: doesn't suck the mud,it's hard to run inside corners with tapepro internal angle


Not having your mud thin enough is usually the reason the tube won't suck up mud. Those seals do last a long time even untreated as long as you keep the tube clean after use. I have one going on 7 years old and works just fine without lubing.

Check out the first couple minutes of my video where I show how thin the mud should be.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Square Foot said:


> Cazna,
> 
> Are your angle head blades adjusted to where it will leave more mud? You should be able to apply a heavier feathered fill ( as in your pic ) by slightly lowering the apex of the blades which in turn can be sanded out to a nice tight angle, as you like to do.
> 
> ...


 
No i havent tryed setting the blades, I have 6 different angleheads and they all do it, Wouldnt moving the blades back create a ridge line?? I did try setting blades on a couple not running so well but it didnt seem to go so well.




keke said:


> I tried all of the above and I only have this to say:sorry all tapepro cp lovers but this is not the best tool on the market.In my opinion the best cp is quick fill pump and the new one comes with nozzle to fit the angle head


The quickfill is a nice tube and does suck well, Not as long or heavy duty as a tapepro, I didnt know it and a different nozzel, I have the box filler.



gazman said:


> Yes, Tom said that they did some testing on it. He had big hopes for Lanox but it did not work out.
> 
> I cant remember where I read it but I seem to recall a tool manufacturer advertising that their rubbers are solvent resistant.


Well thats interesting, Ive been using it for 5 or so years with great results, No hassels at all but i dont drown things in it, Just a little goes a long way.




mudslingr said:


> Not having your mud thin enough is usually the reason the tube won't suck up mud. Those seals do last a long time even untreated as long as you keep the tube clean after use. I have one going on 7 years old and works just fine without lubing.
> 
> Check out the first couple minutes of my video where I show how thin the mud should be.


Nice slingr, Hows that 4 wheel can am run, Looks smooth, I have the two wheel and dont like it very much, It drags.

Interesting method you have going there with no corner roller.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

cazna said:


> No i havent tryed setting the blades, I have 6 different angleheads and they all do it, Wouldnt moving the blades back create a ridge line?? I did try setting blades on a couple not running so well but it didnt seem to go so well.


Blades and sides can be adjusted without leaving an edge. Just takes a little patience to get it right.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

cazna said:


> Nice slingr, Hows that 4 wheel can am run, Looks smooth, I have the two wheel and dont like it very much, It drags.
> 
> Interesting method you have going there with no corner roller.


I prefer the 2 wheel over the 4. I find the extra set of wheels smears the mud and tends to spit it around. But then I find the wheels useless to start with. Once you have your consistency figured out the head just floats on top of the mud anyway. The wheels really do nothing except maybe add a little balance.

Try it without the roller caz. I'm sure you'll be impressed once you get the feel for it. But it only works with the tin flushers. Haven't used a roller in over 15 years or more until P.A. ROCKER sent me an auto taper. This system doesn't work well on tape applied with a bazooka. Not enough mud left behind the tape.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> I spoke to Tom a while ago about the tube not sucking up mud. He commented that the rubber on the piston does not like a lube that has a solvent in it. A solvent will cause the rubber to deteriorate, and stop it from sucking. Sprays like WD40, and Lanox have a solvent. Tightening the bolt will not flare the piston and give more suck.


I don't see why anyone wants to lube up their tools, except for the Bazooka:yes:

I just keep all my tools like the boxes, applicators, angle heads and so on in a tool box with a bit of water on the bottom. When I need something, it's ready within seconds, packed away within seconds too. I think it's harder on all tools to have them go wet then dry, wet then dry (except for the zook, though sometimes I bag it)

For the CT, I will suck up some water before I use it, and same when I'm done with it. Sorta the same with the zook, I will dump water down the tube, then dump it out, before I use it. Water is our best lubricant when dealing with mud,,,, think about it:yes:

Plus I think one part of the problem with the tapepro tube is the wider diameter, makes it harder to suck up the mud. But no big deal to me, as Cazna said, use the pump to fill it. If I'm doing something major like bead or angles, I find the pump fills the CT up tight (even other CT's), plus the nose cone stays cleaner. If I'm doing something minor, like filling my nail spotter, then I don't care if the CT fills up all the way, just as long as it sucks up mud. But it does suck if your tube don't suck, cause you do half to use your pump to always fill it, which can suck:whistling2:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

today I've had to do 12 internals and must say thanks to Gazman and Mudslingr because I did it their way dunny brush without roller and for my surprise it worked very well and I think this is the best and fastest way for the small jobs. cheers guys for the tip


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

What , We were right . I wont say I told you so.:whistling2:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

catdod said:


> very good picture for the last picture.
> 
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> 
> 出口顾问：代理进出口|报关报检|出口退税|贸易融资|物流通关


Just how big, just how many keys do you have on that keyboard of yours, cat(?)


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> Not having your mud thin enough is usually the reason the tube won't suck up mud. Those seals do last a long time even untreated as long as you keep the tube clean after use. I have one going on 7 years old and works just fine without lubing.
> 
> Check out the first couple minutes of my video where I show how thin the mud should be.
> 
> How to use a compound tube to tape drywall flat and angle joints. - YouTube


do you have a clip on how you clean your tube? My tube is clear and I can see were the mud dont come clean if you dont do it right


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

mudslingr said:


> Not having your mud thin enough is usually the reason the tube won't suck up mud. Those seals do last a long time even untreated as long as you keep the tube clean after use. I have one going on 7 years old and works just fine without lubing.
> 
> Check out the first couple minutes of my video where I show how thin the mud should be.
> 
> How to use a compound tube to tape drywall flat and angle joints. - YouTube


not the mud is a problem I made it thinner enough to run 3.5'' through the box, maybe 2buck is right a wider diameter is a problem for tapepro CT :whistling2:


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

I tape with either the zook or homax banjo, then use the tt 2.5 inch with the corner box kind of coats it as well, then second coat with the 3 inch using either the corner box depending on job size, or corner roller, then sand and wala!!! good to go. occasionally if the job requires level 4 or 5 I will use the 2.5 after the 3 then sand..the can-am flushers leave the corners a little rounded..anyone have a remedy for rounded corners?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

spacklinfool said:


> anyone have a remedy for rounded corners?


A corner sanding block/sponge does the trick.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

spacklinfool said:


> I tape with either the zook or homax banjo, then use the tt 2.5 inch with the corner box kind of coats it as well, then second coat with the 3 inch using either the corner box depending on job size, or corner roller, then sand and wala!!! good to go. occasionally if the job requires level 4 or 5 I will use the 2.5 after the 3 then sand..the can-am flushers leave the corners a little rounded..anyone have a remedy for rounded corners?


 
time for a new flusher


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

I know generally that most on here will roll and then flush/glaze when taping, but how many people wipe their tapes by hand and then finish their angles with a flusher/angle head? Seems like the flusher leaves more mud on the angles then the angle heads so my question is do you still have to run the angles twice if you were finishing with a flusher? Thinking about picking up a flusher and a pole to try out.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

thefinisher said:


> I know generally that most on here will roll and then flush/glaze when taping, but how many people wipe their tapes by hand and then finish their angles with a flusher/angle head? Seems like the flusher leaves more mud on the angles then the angle heads so my question is do you still have to run the angles twice if you were finishing with a flusher? Thinking about picking up a flusher and a pole to try out.


I roll, flush, and then finish coat after it dries.
With fibafuse you can roll, flush and finish after it sets a little, but it makes for more sanding and they dont come out quite as nice.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

thefinisher said:


> Seems like the flusher leaves more mud on the angles then the angle heads so my question is do you still have to run the angles twice if you were finishing with a flusher? Thinking about picking up a flusher and a pole to try out.


In a real time squeeze (or at times where quality wasn't as necessary), I've flushed just once, when putting on the corner tapes, and where I wouldn't need to put on too many of them. 

But it meant more work getting the corners squared away with sanding so they were acceptable enough (on commercial jobs). And you can count on more checkout mud needed after, when going over things with a light.

One thing I would do is not push into the flusher so hard when doing them just the one time, to leave more mud behind to coat the tape and to work with when sanding.

You can try it and see how it works for your situation.
But you might have to change your handle from 'the finisher' to 'good enuff'.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Why isnt anyone jumping in to a defence of angleheads??

I wonder out of the guys on dwt who uses flushers, Angleheads or a combo of both the most??


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

cazna said:


> Why isnt anyone jumping in to a defence of angleheads??
> 
> I wonder out of the guys on dwt who uses flushers, Angleheads or a combo of both the most??


I've never even seen anyone around here using flushers. I put on the tape with a Columbia taper, roll them and then glaze with a 2 1/2" Columbia angle head. Rough sand and then push the Columbia angle box with a 3" tape tech angle head and my angles come out super nice. No edging at all. That's my method and I'm sticking with it!!!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

JustMe said:


> In a real time squeeze (or at times where quality wasn't as necessary), I've flushed just once, when putting on the corner tapes, and where I wouldn't need to put on too many of them.
> 
> But it meant more work getting the corners squared away with sanding so they were acceptable enough (on commercial jobs). And you can count on more checkout mud needed after, when going over things with a light.
> 
> ...


Well I'm used to finishing them by hand but I'm thinking of using my wool roller to put on mud and then run a 3.5" flusher behind it. Just wondering how much mud it leaves behind??? If I tape with say a banjo and wipe it by hand then let dry, can I pull it once with my wool roller and a flusher head or will I have to do it again once I skim?


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

thefinisher said:


> Well I'm used to finishing them by hand but I'm thinking of using my wool roller to put on mud and then run a 3.5" flusher behind it. Just wondering how much mud it leaves behind??? If I tape with say a banjo and wipe it by hand then let dry, can I pull it once with my wool roller and a flusher head or will I have to do it again once I skim?


The scenarios you're listing aren't ones I've used - eg. I've never used a 3.5" in that way - so you'll have to try and see how it goes. But I would think your wool rollering and flushing one time after the tape is on and dry should work.

Things like how long you leave the mud before you run the flusher on a final pass - I'll try to leave it for a bit longer after a 1st pass, to let it dry back a bit more so more is left behind - and how hard you push on the flusher when flushing, will also determine the amount of mud left.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

thefinisher said:


> I'm thinking of using my wool roller to put on mud and then run a 3.5" flusher behind it.



I have not done that with the roller but have done the same thing with the dunny brush. The biggest problem is getting the quantity of mud just right. That is the benefit of using an applicator on the tube. You get the right amount of mud.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

keke said:


> today I've had to do 12 internals and must say thanks to Gazman and Mudslingr because I did it their way dunny brush without roller and for my surprise it worked very well and I think this is the best and fastest way for the small jobs. cheers guys for the tip





keke said:


> not the mud is a problem I made it thinner enough to run 3.5'' through the box, maybe 2buck is right a wider diameter is a problem for tapepro CT :whistling2:


Oh sure









Gazman and Mudslingr get a compliment for being right about something, Well I get a "maybe" I'm right about something:furious:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I know generally that most on here will roll and then flush/glaze when taping, but how many people wipe their tapes by hand and then finish their angles with a flusher/angle head? Seems like the flusher leaves more mud on the angles then the angle heads so my question is do you still have to run the angles twice if you were finishing with a flusher? Thinking about picking up a flusher and a pole to try out.


To finish with the tin head is a bit different:yes:

I call it "kicking it up on it's heel"

You half to pay more attention to the bend/hook on your wiping pole. The upright angles/internals you may want to start with the bend pointing up. With horizontals, if you know how to run the zook, then it's the same body positioning, walk backwards with them, it will cause the tin flusher to kick up on it's heel (coats tighter, hook/bend facing you). Walking forward you tend to lose control of it, you can walk forward if you want, but make your final pass walking backwards. But then again, you should be able to finish with one pass.......

Confused yet:whistling2:


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

hey Buck, was wondering when someone was going to pull up a pic of Hogan.:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

mld said:


> hey Buck, was wondering when someone was going to pull up a pic of Hogan.:thumbsup:


You would make a good colonel klink :whistling2:


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> I have not done that with the roller but have done the same thing with the dunny brush. The biggest problem is getting the quantity of mud just right. That is the benefit of using an applicator on the tube. You get the right amount of mud.


I found out that the most important thing is the mud thickness.the thinner the mud the better the flusher works. starting from yesterday dunny brush all the way for a small job


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh sure
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Ok OK.I use use 2 types of CT and now I get your point. After I rebuilt tapepro CT I know YOU ARE 100% RIGHT

and now I WILL SAY IT

2BUCK IS RIGHT ALL THE TIME:yes:ALL THE TIME 2BUCK IS RIGHT:yes:

* Beware 2buck if you are wrong


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

keke said:


> Ok OK.I use use 2 types of CT and now I get your point. After I rebuilt tapepro CT I know YOU ARE 100% RIGHT
> 
> and now I WILL SAY IT
> 
> ...


Holy keke, your actually right about something:thumbsup::thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Why isnt anyone jumping in to a defence of angleheads??
> 
> I wonder out of the guys on dwt who uses flushers, Angleheads or a combo of both the most??


 
Okay,, I'll bite

Since I use angleheads only,, I'm not qualified to speak to flushers (small imitations to the real thing)

If your anglehead is leaving a rounded corner,,,it needs to be adjusted


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> (small imitations to the real thing)


Or they're maybe at times 'elegantly simple solutions' to something that's maybe a little overly complicated. (My angle heads haven't been pulled out in a long time. Thankfully, I don't need them for the commercial work I do.)


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

JustMe said:


> Or they're maybe at times 'elegantly simple solutions' to something that's maybe a little overly complicated. (My angle heads haven't been pulled out in a long time. Thankfully, I don't need them for the commercial work I do.)


Kool, glad its working for ya,,:whistling2:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Kool, glad its working for ya,,:whistling2:


You sometimes remind me of my 1st year philosophy prof I had. He used to say "That's interesting" to everything I said to him. I thought he was a pretty smart guy. Then I later thought that maybe he just didn't want to bother getting into arguments - which maybe made him smarter than I originally thought he was.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

JustMe said:


> You sometimes remind me of my 1st year philosophy prof I had. He used to say "That's interesting" to everything I said to him. I thought he was a pretty smart guy. Then I later thought that maybe he just didn't want to bother getting into arguments - which maybe made him smarter than I originally thought he was.


 Thanks,,, I think???

I am sure I'm not as smart as he was,,, 

I can't speak to the flushers, as I have never used them. I just find it frustrating when flusher users make the point that the " angleheads leave a screwed up corner". I know they don't, unless they are either out of adjustment, or the operator don't know how to use em.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Thanks,,, I think???
> 
> I am sure I'm not as smart as he was,,,


Take it as a compliment.

'Smart' comes in a few forms. If I had to 'deal in the real' when it came to something, I'd choose you over him.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Thanks,,, I think???
> 
> I am sure I'm not as smart as he was,,,
> 
> I can't speak to the flushers, as I have never used them. I just find it frustrating when flusher users make the point that the " angleheads leave a screwed up corner". I know they don't, unless they are either out of adjustment, or the operator don't know how to use em.


I wouldn't call it a screwed up corner.

If the tin flusher was all you used, then you wouldn't know any better, till you used a angle head. Other than a DWC or another taper, the only other trade who will notice the difference is a painter, when they half to cut in.

Each head has it's pro's or cons, which I'm too lazy to type about right now:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

So all six of my angle heads need adjusted :blink:

Its not a rounded corner they give me capt, Its more a paper scraped corner. As in the tape coat drys and pulls the corner paper out and rounded, Then along comes second coat anglehead and its just scraping the paper trying to fill in each side, Then sand it and i got paper, Use a flusher last and it fills nice, Sands to sharp corner.

Ive just ran out of sh!t to pick about anyway, The anglehead corners still look ok when painted, They look great from your place :whistling2:

Each day this time of year its a little different, This view im talking about, Not my choice in finishing methods.......Well......It keeps things interesting and something to talk about here anyway :whistling2:


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

It sounds like your heads might need adjusted. By the time I got a second coat my tapes are fully coated with crisp internal corners and perfectly feathered edges. Hell for some jobs that get hand texture we only glaze them while taping and good to go!! And ya I do tons of high end work here in the resorts. Big trophy homes and I'm getting tons of work and you all know how hard it is to please the rich! But they keep calling me!! And oh ya I'm covered in tattoos with a shaved head so I might fit the "criminal profile" but guess what? IDGAF!!! I got work and I get paid!! People around here love a good white boy they can talk to, bull**** with, and even pour out their problems to! I'm actually turning away more work than I'm doing at the moment!! How's my grammar? The world keeps spinning and I'm living the drywall dream!!! Much love to all my brothers in the struggle!!! I'm drifting so I'm out!!


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> So all six of my angle heads need adjusted :blink:


Fire a couple of them over here Caz and I can adjust them for you, if I can get them working good for me then you'll know the heads not the problem, or fire all 6 of them over for that matter.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> So all six of my angle heads need adjusted :blink:
> 
> Its not a rounded corner they give me capt, Its more a paper scraped corner. As in the tape coat drys and pulls the corner paper out and rounded, Then along comes second coat anglehead and its just scraping the paper trying to fill in each side, Then sand it and i got paper, Use a flusher last and it fills nice, Sands to sharp corner.
> 
> ...


 It's just messed up on how you guys drive on the wrong side of the road!!!:blink:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Sorry Moore but your way looks wrong. I guess it is what you get used to.


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

I always wondered why so many of you don't tape the top angles that go from ceiling to wall?
?
Would it be because crown moulding?
The Reno I'm doing I had to remove the crown moulding and the angles weren't taped. But there was so no big gaps in the board like I've seen on some of the pictures on here


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Yes it is because the cornice (crown) covers the gap. The cornice is fixed to the wall/ceiling with mud so that provides a seal.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

moore said:


> It's just messed up on how you guys drive on the wrong side of the road!!!:blink:


It works out good really because everyone else drives on the same side as me :stuart:
Whats weird is seeing a big left hand drive yank tank coming the other way......it looks to us like the 10 year old passenger is driving.


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

gazman said:


> Yes it is because the cornice (crown) covers the gap. The cornice is fixed to the wall/ceiling with mud so that provides a seal.


Well then you guys are lucky not really having to do 3 ways like us Canucks. Maybe we will have to adopt that system.... My buddy looked at the Columbia book and I believe it's Bernie boxing he goes what the hell is he doing boxing when he hasn't even finished taping his angles. Now I can explain it to him


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The cornice miters are our equivalent to your three ways. Depending on the cornice used the degree of difficulty changes.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Toontowntaper said:


> Well then you guys are lucky not really having to do 3 ways like us Canucks. Maybe we will have to adopt that system.... My buddy looked at the Columbia book and I believe it's Bernie boxing he goes what the hell is he doing boxing when he hasn't even finished taping his angles. Now I can explain it to him


I always box my flats and butts first, then install my angle tapes, it's a good one man system:thumbup:

Guessing it's the same where you are, but we do get a fair amount of corniss/crown mold, but the trimmers tend to install it.(hard to compete with them too) But they still expect the internals to get taped, they call it a weather seal. Then, some builders want the angles finished, reason being, it's a extra to the home purchase. So a lot of home buyers will drop the crown molding if they think expenses are getting out of hand. (which does happen a lot).

Only time I risk not coating the angles, is if it's a model home. The builders will install all the bells and whistles for selling points:yes:


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

I tape butts then flats then vertical angles then horizontal angles.... Then I place all bead and coat butts and flats 1st day

2nd day rough sand run angles flats butts and tie ins If dry enough and 3 ways If dry enough

3rd day sand and touch ups 

We don't install any cornice here we are suppose to tape and finish all angles and if they want cornice afterwards the finisher installs all of that


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

Toontowntaper said:


> Well then you guys are lucky not really having to do 3 ways like us Canucks. Maybe we will have to adopt that system.... My buddy looked at the Columbia book and I believe it's Bernie boxing he goes what the hell is he doing boxing when he hasn't even finished taping his angles. Now I can explain it to him


we do a lot 3 ways:all the commercial and apartments jobs 
Last time when I did cornice was 3 months ago which means not everybody is so lucky


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