# Bead



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

A number of times on DWT I have seen blokes post that metal bead always cracks unless you do strange things like put m**h down the edges. And I have wondered why that is. Then I recently seen the pics that Joe from Trim Tex uploaded comparing beads. When I seen the metal bead in the pic I then understood the problem, your metal bead is rubbish. (I know that some guys on here hate metal bead period) Over here metal is the standard. Here are some pics of the bead that we have, it allows for a lot more mud penetration than the bead that Joe showed. In thirty odd years I don't recall a call back due to cracked bead. I clinch these on then check them with a straight edge and staple where needed.
I know some blokes will bag out the metal as being from the 80`s but hey each to his / her own.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

ya...up here, ours look nothing like that.
They pretty well look like this.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Gaz Your applying your metal bead to metal frame work..That's why they work so well for you...Metal bead attached to wood framing with nails/screws or staples will start to back out within a year or two...That's why most tapers here hate metal bead.

BTW..That's a fine looking bead you guys have down there:yes:..

I will say this again...Metal bead must have a fastener every 6'' to 8'' apart..If a metal bead is only clinched on with no fasteners.. It will edge crack. My quess.. this is why clinchers tape there bead. and they should ..A clinched on bead then taped will stand the test of time..A metal bead nailed/screwed on to wood will end with pops..


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> Gaz Your applying your metal bead to metal frame work..That's why they work so well for you...Metal bead attached to wood framing with nails/screws or staples will start to back out within a year or two...That's why most tapers here hate metal bead.
> 
> BTW..That's a fine looking bead you guys have down there:yes:..
> 
> I will say this again...Metal bead must have a fastener every 6'' to 8'' apart..If a metal bead is only clinched on with no fasteners.. It will edge crack. My quess.. this is why clinchers tape there bead. and they should ..A clinched on bead then taped will stand the test of time..A metal bead nailed/screwed on to wood will end with pops..


Couldn't agree more!
Ya, I forgot they use steel down there.


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

gaz the bead look like something i should attached to my truck lol. as for cracking all i have to say is a taper should never trust the boardman..see a loose bead throw some screws or nails in it.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

PrecisionTaping said:


> ya...up here, ours look nothing like that.
> They pretty well look like this.
> View attachment 3972


Well there's your problem, it needs the holes so the mud bonds it to the wall, I have been using 6mm staples to tack the bead on for more years than I can remember and never had one crack or let go, the staples are only there to hold it in place until the mud sets.
Your timbers might be more prone to movement than ours? What is your maximum moisture content allowed before lining? here its 18%


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> Well there's your problem, it needs the holes so the mud bonds it to the wall, I have been using 6mm staples to tack the bead on for more years than I can remember and never had one crack or let go, the staples are only there to hold it in place until the mud sets.
> Your timbers might be more prone to movement than ours? What is your maximum moisture content allowed before lining? here its 18%


Wow, maximum moisture content? That's some pretty big words there kiwiman. :blink:
I have no clue! Sorry. lol.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Wow, maximum moisture content? That's some pretty big words there kiwiman. :blink:
> I have no clue! Sorry. lol.


Surely you're kidding right? :blink: 
Do you mean there's no restrictions on how dry your framing is before it can be lined over? I would not go anywhere a job if I thought there weren't bone dry timber underneath.
Over here the inspector moisture test it and you can't proceed until there's a reading of 18% or less.


----------



## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Moisture meters are the norm here now on the bigger jobs in British Columbia, but it has only been that way for a few years. You mean B.C. is ahead of Ontario PT?


----------



## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

And yes Gazman, that metal bead you have seems top make much more sense than our metal bead. Rubbish you say?? :whistling2:


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Mudshark said:


> Moisture meters are the norm here now on the bigger jobs in British Columbia, but it has only been that way for a few years. You mean B.C. is ahead of Ontario PT?


It's the law here for everything with a builders permit.
I think it's been the norm since Adam bonked Eve :whistling2:


----------



## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> Well there's your problem, it needs the holes so the mud bonds it to the wall, I have been using 6mm staples to tack the bead on for more years than I can remember and never had one crack or let go, the staples are only there to hold it in place until the mud sets.
> Your timbers might be more prone to movement than ours? What is your maximum moisture content allowed before lining? here its 18%


 it's 19% here in canuck land for 2 or better up to select,anything above gets graded to economy,i would'nt use economy for anything other than cement forms.


----------



## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

it's doubtfull that pronging the wood is part of the inspection program here.it does have to have the proper grade stamp accepted for code.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> Surely you're kidding right? :blink:
> Do you mean there's no restrictions on how dry your framing is before it can be lined over? I would not go anywhere a job if I thought there weren't bone dry timber underneath.
> Over here the inspector moisture test it and you can't proceed until there's a reading of 18% or less.


I will give u a laugh!
A job i was at not so long ago had a superflow floor in it(Its cement that is poured in like water and self levels) Well the boards started swelling on the vaults between where it was screwed so i phoned the gc as u guys call them.
He sent a guy out with a moisture meter and the walls were reading 64:yes: and u say its ment 2 b 18 That was the plasterboard he tested! I told him dont look at me for the sorting of this place when it dry's out.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

gazman said:


> A number of times on DWT I have seen blokes post that metal bead always cracks unless you do strange things like put m**h down the edges. And I have wondered why that is. Then I recently seen the pics that Joe from Trim Tex uploaded comparing beads. When I seen the metal bead in the pic I then understood the problem, your metal bead is rubbish. (I know that some guys on here hate metal bead period) Over here metal is the standard. Here are some pics of the bead that we have, it allows for a lot more mud penetration than the bead that Joe showed. In thirty odd years I don't recall a call back due to cracked bead. I clinch these on then check them with a straight edge and staple where needed.
> I know some blokes will bag out the metal as being from the 80`s but hey each to his / her own.


U can get these beads over here which have a 3mm nose on them! Never tried them but they look like the filler would penetrate them pretty good!







Or these that come with Mesh attached!


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Surely you're kidding right? :blink:
> Do you mean there's no restrictions on how dry your framing is before it can be lined over? I would not go anywhere a job if I thought there weren't bone dry timber underneath.
> Over here the inspector moisture test it and you can't proceed until there's a reading of 18% or less.


a moister meter :blink:

We don't need one of those in Commie Canada Kiwiman, We know everything is always wet:whistling2:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thats what Julie looks like today, Covered in snow. She got hit with a snow storm, I hope kiwimans letting her tuck up tight in his bed tonight.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Thats what Julie looks like today, Covered in snow. She got hit with a snow storm, I hope kiwimans letting her tuck up tight in his bed tonight.


Yeah, maybe I'll have to slip on a woolly jumper tonight :brows:


----------



## gam026 (Aug 14, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> Surely you're kidding right? :blink:
> Do you mean there's no restrictions on how dry your framing is before it can be lined over? I would not go anywhere a job if I thought there weren't bone dry timber underneath.
> Over here the inspector moisture test it and you can't proceed until there's a reading of 18% or less.


Sometimes in the wintertime we have to scrape ice off the studs before we board them. :blink::blink:


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

Here in ont. the wood is green, when the boarders screw the drywall water squirts out lol. it's so fast paced a lot of the houses are prefab now, walls and decks on trucks slapped up like a production line and yes the houses are crooked like so a moisture meter would be pointless


----------



## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

gam026 said:


> Sometimes in the wintertime we have to scrape ice off the studs before we board them. :blink::blink:


I like the crunchy sound when the screw hits an ice coated frozen stud.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

gam026 said:


> Sometimes in the wintertime we have to scrape ice off the studs before we board them. :blink::blink:


----------

