# Bazzoka issue



## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

I used my ancient tape tech zooka today, and noticed small hairs sticking out of the cable in it. I think this is a sign of the cable about to break correct? Is it pretty easy to change it yourself?


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

joepro0000 said:


> I used my ancient tape tech zooka today, and noticed small hairs sticking out of the cable in it. I think this is a sign of the cable about to break correct? Is it pretty easy to change it yourself?


Yes ..its easy...look on Colombia taping tools facebook page there is a vido


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

joepro0000 said:


> I used my ancient tape tech zooka today, and noticed small hairs sticking out of the cable in it. I think this is a sign of the cable about to break correct? Is it pretty easy to change it yourself?


yes easy to change, of course pressure wash with face plate off so you have nice clean surface:cool2:


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

joepro0000 said:


> I used my ancient tape tech zooka today, and noticed small hairs sticking out of the cable in it. I think this is a sign of the cable about to break correct? Is it pretty easy to change it yourself?


Hi Joe,

As the other members indicated, it is very easy to change the cable in your TapeTech automatic taper. You can follow the steps below using TapeTech part #054209F (Cable). You can also buy the cable as part of Taper Repair Kit 501A which includes other parts as well. Here is a link to the 501A Kit on the TapeTech website:
http://www.tapetech.com/products/Parts-Kits/Taper-Repair-Kit


*Cable Replacement*
1. Remove all the mud from the automatic taper.
2. Unscrew the butt ring from the bottom of the taper tube. Lightly tap tube butt ring with a screwdriver, if necessary.
3. Remove the cover plate by taking out the top screws and loosening the side and bottom screws. Gently pull the cover plate up and out to remove it. Close the gate valve and force the piston down with a thin piece of wood or a flattened piece of corner bead.
4. Loosen the screw on the cable drum and remove the end of the cable from the drum.
5. Remove the cable from the piston by removing the nut from the slotted stud.
6. Clean the slotted stud of any mud, then thread the cable through the nut while holding it, and place the end of the cable into the slot. Screw the nut onto the slotted stud and tighten, to secure the cable to the piston.
7. Drop the loose end of the cable into the tube followed by the piston. Replace the butt ring and the screws.
8. Make sure the slot in the cable drum is clean and insert the loose end of the cable and tighten the screw.
9. Wind the cable onto the cable drum by turning the drum key clockwise.
10. Replace the cover plate and tighten all screws.

I hope this post was helpful.
Good Finishing!


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Sometimes the end of the cable is a little tough to get to stay put if the notch or hole is not cleaned out really good. I went far enough one day and took a drill bit and bored a little deeper and more of an angle towards the set screw that holds the cable in place. I also took a small washer and ground down one side or edge flat and bent the opposite to completely go over the cable. The reason why is the screw just barely catches the cable. It has never given me any problems. Just a little trick from experience and a little improvising. I suppose someone will patent that idea huh? As long as you are replacing the cable make sure to tighten the set screw on the spool, I can't help but think of all the problems that one may have with air pockets or dry spots on there tape because it slips as it is winding up the cable and not pulling the plunger all the time in the tube. Simple fix but hair racking problem with occasional blisters when it happens.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

TapeTech said:


> Hi Joe,
> 
> As the other members indicated, it is very easy to change the cable in your TapeTech automatic taper. You can follow the steps below using TapeTech part #054209F (Cable). You can also buy the cable as part of Taper Repair Kit 501A which includes other parts as well. Here is a link to the 501A Kit on the TapeTech website:
> http://www.tapetech.com/products/Parts-Kits/Taper-Repair-Kit
> ...


 And by the way why in the world can't they make the cable perhaps a 1/4-1/2" longer so u can at least have one extra rotation on the spool? I know this is not suppose to happen but if left out in the cold van truck or what ever and the mud freezes it will stretch the cable and snap. Allowing a little extra I believe would prevent this.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Of course we can just make out own cable and save a ton of money right?:thumbsup:


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

silverstilts said:


> And by the way why in the world can't they make the cable perhaps a 1/4-1/2" longer so u can at least have one extra rotation on the spool? I know this is not suppose to happen but if left out in the cold van truck or what ever and the mud freezes it will stretch the cable and snap. Allowing a little extra I believe would prevent this.


Thanks for the input. I'll ask the Product Team if there would be any downside to this. I would hate to think we would need to market a "cold weather cable"! 

Does anyone else have this problem due to cold weather?

Thanks.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

TapeTech said:


> Thanks for the input. I'll ask the Product Team if there would be any downside to this. I would hate to think we would need to market a "cold weather cable"!
> 
> Does anyone else have this problem due to cold weather?
> 
> Thanks.


What would be the downside none that I can think of except it may cost you an extra half a cent or less. I know cut here little by little and it all adds up. But give the ones that use the tools something to justify there cost. The cost of a tube is unbelievable, the cost of making one? Like I said sure one should not leave it out where it may freeze, but it happens. I have also walked into jobs where the furnace had gone out everything will freeze just a fluke I know.


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

There is no concern of cost; an extra 1/4" or 1/2" would not add any cost. From years of experience in construction, power tools and now drywall tools, sometimes what appears to be the simplest change can have unintended consequences. So, it's always best to check with as many people as possible, including the engineers, to expose any pitfalls.

All ideas for improvement are helpful as it makes you constantly think about ways to get better. Any change or innovation requires testing to ensure reliable performance and that starts with posing the question about any known potential problems.

Thanks again for the suggestion. I'll post a response after I bounce it off the team.

Good Finishing!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

The extra length in cable may help prevent the cable from snapping when it gets knocked over too. As silver stilts says, stuff can happen. It seems like 9 times out of 10 , if a Bazooka gets knocked over when it's full, the cable snaps.

Maybe the longer cable will help with that too:thumbsup:


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## Captain Drywall (Aug 15, 2011)

when you fill a bazoka you, of course don't want to overfill it. that little space at the top of the plunger is just enough to make the cable snap it you set the gun down to hard on the ground ( i put it on my foot) a friend loaned me a bazoka with a cable that was to short filling the tube all the way would break it. so i put a piece of pvc pipe in the end to prevent overfilling.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> The extra length in cable may help prevent the cable from snapping when it gets knocked over too. As silver stilts says, stuff can happen. It seems like 9 times out of 10 , if a Bazooka gets knocked over when it's full, the cable snaps.
> 
> Maybe the longer cable will help with that too:thumbsup:



huh:jester:huhhhhh:jester: 2 buck I allready did this years back before 2buckjr came along:jester:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> huh:jester:huhhhhh:jester: 2 buck I allready did this years back before 2buckjr came along:jester:



:jester:


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

thanks will pick up a repair kit at AMES before the next job. Is it bad to spray WD-40 on it, I hear stores of it makes the seals leak? I ran out of bazooka oil and sometimes spray WD on it, but its works flawlessly.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

joepro0000 said:


> thanks will pick up a repair kit at AMES before the next job. Is it bad to spray WD-40 on it, I hear stores of it makes the seals leak? I ran out of bazooka oil and sometimes spray WD on it, but its works flawlessly.


I don't like dub -D I go with Silicon Spray, :blink:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I got a problem , with the bazooka that is gold in colour.

As I keep saying, I'm not the most mechanical type, so....... I had my zook taken in to our supply guy that fixes them. I got it back, and their were still some issues with it, so I sent it back. I got it back, and there is one issue that still persist. When starting out with a tape run over your head, weather a flat tape or angle, after 6" of movement, it will jam (stop moving). He (repair guy) was saying he thinks its the chain, But I don't think so, chain seems fine. When it jams, chain looks good. Ive had the problem with chains catching/jamming before, so that don't seem to be it to me.

so some of the symptoms

I can do 4 or 5 runs (over head), then all of a sudden it happens

Feels like the tape is running against the cutting blade, but, I jiggly the cutter, and even sometimes pull on the cutting chain to make sure it's clear of the tape. But it remains jammed. Would make sure after every run, cutting chain was in proper position etc......

Out of frustration/rage:furious:,,,, when the wheel won't turn, I run it any where on the wall, forcing the wheel to turn. It tears a small triangle piece out of the right side of the tape. Then it will run ok for a bit. Then suddenly you will run a tape, and 6" out, the wheel stops turning. Then I repeat the rage thing:furious:

Does not seem to do it when running upright angle tapes, or horizontals , only seem to do it when over your head.

There's all new parts on it, bearings for the cutting wheels etc, all the tune up parts you put on it, plus more.

I'm good at running the damn zookies, just not at fixing them

I'm the race car driver, now I just need a good mechanic:whistling2:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

*.*

Just started something new when revamping my Zook, I use pipe tape when I bolt and screw it back together,


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I got a problem , with the bazooka that is gold in colour.
> 
> As I keep saying, I'm not the most mechanical type, so....... I had my zook taken in to our supply guy that fixes them. I got it back, and their were still some issues with it, so I sent it back. I got it back, and there is one issue that still persist. When starting out with a tape run over your head, weather a flat tape or angle, after 6" of movement, it will jam (stop moving). He (repair guy) was saying he thinks its the chain, But I don't think so, chain seems fine. When it jams, chain looks good. Ive had the problem with chains catching/jamming before, so that don't seem to be it to me.
> 
> ...


cutting chain spring may be slightly weak...take the pull ring...pull it and turn it 180 degrees (tighten) then snap it back in holes and see if that helps...if that isnt it, i say it is the spider gear is worn on the spool causing it to bind up...does it feel like it would when you slip a pedal because the chain is loose on a bicycle? 

usually loose chain or worn sprocket wont cause the tape to tear though


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> cutting chain spring may be slightly weak...take the pull ring...pull it and turn it 180 degrees (tighten) then snap it back in holes and see if that helps...if that isnt it, i say it is the spider gear is worn on the spool causing it to bind up...does it feel like it would when you slip a pedal because the chain is loose on a bicycle?
> 
> usually loose chain or worn sprocket wont cause the tape to tear though


HHHHmmmm yes, there's a Idea with the spring on the cutting chain, get some more tension on it.

Just with the chain, I think he put a new one on, maybe I could tap the chain guard in a bit more on it. But I think before, when it was the chain (from before) you could be running tube , and in mid flight it would jam. That's why this one is strange this time. Everything is good to go, then 6 to 8 inches in on your run, it jams.

But that's 2 ideas to address on the tube tomorrow:thumbup:

Just it was getting frustrating today too, working with 2 want a be newbs:furious:
thanks:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

There is a channel/slot that the cutter block sits it, If this is damaged or the screws that hold it firm in place are loose or that channel is bent the the cutter block wont return back to were it needs to be and this can cause hell, Mud or loose paper in there can cause trouble too, Not saying this is you problem but its something else to check out. Also the main sprocket is actually two sprockets pressed together and can come apart, Even a few teeth can spread then that spot will bind and hold the chain, It feels like every time the wheel completes one turn it tightens then lets go, These are problems i had, Maybe not yours but its still a trouble shoot to look at or anyone else reading this thread.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

cazna said:


> There is a channel/slot that the cutter block sits it, If this is damaged or the screws that hold it firm in place are loose or that channel is bent the the cutter block wont return back to were it needs to be and this can cause hell, Mud or loose paper in there can cause trouble too, Not saying this is you problem but its something else to check out. Also the main sprocket is actually two sprockets pressed together and can come apart, Even a few teeth can spread then that spot will bind and hold the chain, It feels like every time the wheel completes one turn it tightens then lets go, These are problems i had, Maybe not yours but its still a trouble shoot to look at or anyone else reading this thread.


Uhuhhhh I was just about to say heyyy Caz let someone else answer a thread once in awhile Mr. Encyclopedia 

how's this channel/slot called the Track

cutter block called the blade holder:jester:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

He is quick eh Joe. We are fourteen or fifteen hours ahead of you. And you will never catch up. :thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Check the drive chains not jamming, the chain guard/guide can be bent a little to take some of the slack out of the chain, also like Caz said about the cutting channel area, if the tiny screw is not countersunk below the surface it will stop the cutter from returning properly everytime, another thing to check is when it jams is the tape tight or loose between the tape holder and the bazooka head, if it's tight it could be your tape reel jamming (long shot).


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Uhuhhhh I was just about to say heyyy Caz let someone else answer a thread once in awhile Mr. Encyclopedia
> 
> how's this channel/slot called the Track
> 
> cutter block called the blade holder:jester:


:thumbup: Sounds like your the Encyclopedia, I dont know what all the parts are called like you.


Merry Syphillis and a happy Gonorrhea to you Joe :jester:



(Xmas) Syphillis (New Year) Gonorrhea They sound the same, Get it :thumbsup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

gazman said:


> He is quick eh Joe. We are fourteen or fifteen hours ahead of you. And you will never catch up. :thumbsup:


Faster than a mare gaz, I can still run with the Mighty Caz


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

cazna said:


> :thumbup: Sounds like your the Encyclopedia, I dont know what all the parts are called like you.
> 
> 
> Merry Syphillis and a happy Gonorrhea to you Joe :jester:
> ...


will find you one day caz for that comment:jester:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Faster than a mare gaz, I can still run with the Mighty Caz


yeah, he's a regular......ahem.....Cazzelle :thumbup:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Thanks Caz I just started getting a lil sticky when Zook ran for 3 or so hours, took a looksee at the track and the Track wheel seemed the rubber was worn down just enough to not send the blade holder back to the other side, so I bent the end of the track just a hair and now the chain, Blade holder and my eyeball otherside and she runs good, have to go get some wheels soon so once again Caz put the finger on it:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Thanks Caz I just started getting a lil sticky when Zook ran for 3 or so hours, took a loosee at the track and the Track wheel seemed the rubber was worn down just enough to not send the blade holder back to the other side, so I bent the end of the track just a hair and now the chain, Blade holder and my eyeball otherside and she runs good, have to go get some wheels soon so once again Caz put the finger on it:yes:


 
Cheers Joe

Actually kiwiman was having trouble with his zook and we had a little brainstorming session comparing his with my zookas, A Goldblatt and an old TT, So comparing them we spotted the differances, His track didnt even have the screws and it was all bent up so the cutter block didnt go back and was jamming up, It amazing how this will affect things, So once that was sorted it ran good as again, The more things you are aware of with a zook then the better you will handle it, So many little parts that can come loose and turn to tears.

Merry Xmas.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Cheers Joe
> 
> Actually kiwiman was having trouble with his zook and we had a little brainstorming session comparing his with my zookas, A Goldblatt and an old TT, So comparing them we spotted the differances, His track didnt even have the screws and it was all bent up so the cutter block didnt go back and was jamming up, It amazing how this will affect things, So once that was sorted it ran good as again, The more things you are aware of with a zook then the better you will handle it, So many little parts that can come loose and turn to tears.
> 
> Merry Xmas.


Don't forget the nylon wheels the chain runs on were worn too, replacing the wheels and the cutting guide insert made it like brand new again :thumbsup:.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Stuff like this is "hair-pulling" at best.

I had a drive chain that had a bad link in it,,,again, like a bicycle chain,, just rotate it slowly and you can see it.

However,, it sounds like a problem I had with a tube once,,, the slot that the tape feeds through, somehow got "screwed up", it got kinda like "flatened" If the tube was held upside down it was on the left side (not like that makes any differance), but I sent it off to get re-built, and still had the same prob. 

TO make a long story short,,, I took a small flat-head screw driver and "opened" that side of the tape chute back up,,, and my problem went away.

Probbly not your problem, but,,,heck,,, check it out anyway.

Oh yeah,,, and Merry Christmas


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

cazna said:


> Cheers Joe
> 
> Actually kiwiman was having trouble with his zook and we had a little brainstorming session comparing his with my zookas, A Goldblatt and an old TT, So comparing them we spotted the differances, His track didnt even have the screws and it was all bent up so the cutter block didnt go back and was jamming up, It amazing how this will affect things, So once that was sorted it ran good as again, The more things you are aware of with a zook then the better you will handle it, So many little parts that can come loose and turn to tears.
> 
> Merry Xmas.


Good call

not so sure about the tears, but uhm thanks again:jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> cutting chain spring may be slightly weak...take the pull ring...pull it and turn it 180 degrees (tighten) then snap it back in holes and see if that helps...if that isnt it, i say it is the spider gear is worn on the spool causing it to bind up...does it feel like it would when you slip a pedal because the chain is loose on a bicycle?
> 
> usually loose chain or worn sprocket wont cause the tape to tear though


You win the prize Bill from Indy







But all that's in it is a thank you.:thumbup:

I put a lot of tension on the cutting chain spring, maybe too much. I pulled it down a good half inch, a tied a copper wire through it to hold it there. Worked great !!!!!!!!!

But then my gooser thing ma jig thingy would not return all the way back down, where the magnet is to catch on that steel plate thing. Which got me thinking why don't they put another magnet there, make the steel plate another magnet...... but anyhow........

Going to stare at it tomorrow at lunch, thinking about a proper way to fix it. B/c if you take a link out of the chain, it will screw up other things . So everyone might see me back on this thread tomorrow,,,, doing this









I suck at fixing mechanical things


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> You win the prize Bill from Indy
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Maybe that extra tension is helping to cope with seizing cutter chain issues?

Something maybe obvious, but if it hasn't been thought of/checked: The cutter's chain could have a link or 2 that could be binding just enough to keep the cutter from returning all the way at times. Make sure all the links are good and free, and not partially seizing so that they cause problems on occasion.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> You win the prize Bill from Indy
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I had a prob with that,,, come to think about it,,,at the same time I had the tape issue. It was due to the same thing,,, a "bump" that flattened the tape chute and bent the gosser tube. Check to see that the tube that the gosser runs on is not bent. Most of the time these problems are bent parts or loose screws.


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## A.T.T.-Craig (Aug 1, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> I got a problem , with the bazooka that is gold in colour.
> 
> As I keep saying, I'm not the most mechanical type, so....... I had my zook taken in to our supply guy that fixes them. I got it back, and their were still some issues with it, so I sent it back. I got it back, and there is one issue that still persist. When starting out with a tape run over your head, weather a flat tape or angle, after 6" of movement, it will jam (stop moving). He (repair guy) was saying he thinks its the chain, But I don't think so, chain seems fine. When it jams, chain looks good. Ive had the problem with chains catching/jamming before, so that don't seem to be it to me.
> 
> ...


First thing to diagnose the problem would be the chain like the repair guy said. I've seen the chains get stuck around the small gear (connected to the shaft that runs the drive wheels (barrel w/ 2 toothed wheels).
If this is the issue, you will see the "half link" of the chain not follow the rest of the main chain. Meaning it doesn't bend with the rest of the links. (there is only 1 half link in this chain, it replaces the "master link" found in other chains)
Above ^^ is where I always start to determine if that is the issue. If not, I go to the next which isn't noticable unless you take a long stare at the main drive sprocket while it's spinning...

-2nd place to look, is the large sprocket or main gear that the chain runs around. If you Zooka has taken a fall while leaning up against the board, you could have bent the large sprocket. This is an expensive part, so hope it didn't happen to you. 
-Last thing I can think of with-out seeing the zooka itself would be the wear marks. If you run it with the chain facing the ceiling the chain itself has worn into the sideplate and head casting of the taper. With those wear marks that the main chain creates, it could cause a bind. (had a local customer in today with the same issue

If you can be without your taper for a few days, send it in to me. I'd be happy to go over it free of charge to see what is wrong.

-Craig
Al's


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

*Go for it*




A.T.T.-Craig said:


> If you can be without your taper for a few days, send it in to me. I'd be happy to go over it free of charge to see what is wrong. -Craig Al's


There you go 2buck. Doesn't get much better than that. 

Think you should take him up on it 

if you can part with that golden girlfriend a few days.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

A.T.T.-Craig said:


> First thing to diagnose the problem would be the chain like the repair guy said. I've seen the chains get stuck around the small gear (connected to the shaft that runs the drive wheels (barrel w/ 2 toothed wheels).
> If this is the issue, you will see the "half link" of the chain not follow the rest of the main chain. Meaning it doesn't bend with the rest of the links. (there is only 1 half link in this chain, it replaces the "master link" found in other chains)
> Above ^^ is where I always start to determine if that is the issue. If not, I go to the next which isn't noticable unless you take a long stare at the main drive sprocket while it's spinning...
> 
> ...


Send my baby off to a foreign Country all by herself, with out me being by her side.......









I will try this 1st, here's some pics. I did examine the sprocket and gear that the chain goes around. They seem fine. I could maybe put more tension on the chain guard, from what I noticed. But I tried what bill from indy said to try, and that's put more tension on the spring. That did the trick,,, but....... Need a proper fix, maybe I have too much tension on it now, b/c as you can see in the last pic. There's too much slack on that silver thingamagober that connects to the chain. So now that affects the Gooser from returning to it's proper position.

debating on a new zook, as you can see, she's almost silver, and that's the second tube on it. (some prick taper took a ball-peen hammer under the cutter so I wouldn't notice right away, Just could not prove which low life taper did it, so I could take a hammer to him:furious But she's been good to me, and just got it back from the Hospital a few weeks ago. My repair guy said he did 200 bucks of transplants on it. (I notice new (looks used) wheel, new gooser, cutting wheel bearings etc...... Should be taking it back to him, I am beginning to question his abilities .......

But if worse comes to worse, I may half to send it to you. with her recent Hospital trip, she was suppose to be running like a new tube, and I already took it back to him once already.

A Drywall talk member like you is awesome, you know how to fix things, and the weak points on certain brands of tools.

Do you know how to fix a DM pump, that leaks from the top, and has not been taken apart in 3 years:whistling2:


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## A.T.T.-Craig (Aug 1, 2008)

I think we've covered the issues you might be having with your cutting/advancing. Sounds like we need to get to the "running" (pulling up the mud) issue. The two problems are seperate.
If you're having issues running 6"s then you're binding up, more than likely your large gear has a bend in it. Especially if you run the zook with the chain resting on the top of the rest of the bazooka.
The last 2 places to look would be that the setscrew was tightened down on the cable drum. 2nd, the setwcrew was tightened down near your drive wheels.(drive wheels have all those teeth)
Hope this helps.


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