# Skim coating textured walls



## NJPainter (Oct 8, 2012)

Hello all,

Looking at a tudor style home with heavily textured walls & ceilings.
Customer would like them to be skim coated to a smooth finish.

While we do our fair share of spackling work prior to finish paint application we have never taken on such a project. 

Can anyone suggest the best approach to achieve the best results?
My initial thoughts were to lightly grind surfaces to create a slightly
more leveled surface, apply fiberglass mesh to all surfaces and than
coat....not sure what is best to use at this point.

Any of this make sense?

Thanks


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Better to hire a finisher to do a skim job for you. It can come out real nasty if you're doing it your first time


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

You could also use FibaFuse instead of Mesh. That's what I would do.

You can purchase it in a 36" roll.
http://www.walltools.com/fibafuse-paperless-wall-reinforcement-fabric-fdw8443-u.html

*Here are some advatanges to FibaFuse.*
-FibaFuse is the ideal solution for both reinforcing plaster walls against spider web or alligator cracking and permanently
repairing damaged walls and ceilings.

-FibaFuse is mold-resistant, making it ideal for high-humidity and moisture-prone applications. It’s also porous, allowing
for a stronger bond with joint compound, plaster or setting-type compound, and ensuring a smooth, uniform finish.

-FibaFuse is 70% stronger than fiberglass mesh reinforcement, allowing for greater impact resistance.

That would be my application process. I would also do like you said first, create a level surface. Grinding it would probably work, or maybe trying to scrape the design...but you said it's a heavy texture..

But anyways, when you figure all of that out, you're more or less going to be doing a level 5 finish over everything.
There are several ways of accomplishing this.

I would apply the FibaFuse and then most likely spray mud over it with a compressor and hopper, then just wipe tight. Do as many coats as required.

Another method would be to roll it on. You're a painter so it would be more familiar to you.
Mix your mud thin, then just dip your roller right into your bucket and then onto the wall. Go a few feet, stop, wipe tight, then keep rolling.
Or if you have a few guys on your crew, just have one or two guys rolling ahead of the other two as they skim behind you.

Those are probably the two most common ways of accomplishing a level 5. You could trowel or knife it all on by hand but that will be more time consuming and kill your shoulder.

Best of luck! :thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Why the mesh ? :blink:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

moore said:


> Why the mesh ? :blink:


I thought that too at first..lol
I figured just mud right over it.
I've done that lots as well. Just skim the design as is.
But I figured maybe there was a reason behind why he wanted to do it that way so I tried to address more directly what he was asking.
Maybe there's spider cracks in the finish?..
or maybe it's an extremely heavy texture?..who knows.
There's different ways of approaching the situation.


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## NJPainter (Oct 8, 2012)

Thanks Precision. I agree, the roll on method would probably feel more comfortable for us. I think we'll give it a go on our first project...a 2nd fl hallway. If it works out maybe we'll consider taking on the entire first floor. Otherwise subbing it out may just be the right way to go.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> Why the mesh ? :blink:


And why help a painter:whistling2:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

NJPainter said:


> Thanks Precision. I agree, the roll on method would probably feel more comfortable for us. I think we'll give it a go on our first project...a 2nd fl hallway. If it works out maybe we'll consider taking on the entire first floor. Otherwise subbing it out may just be the right way to go.


Good answer. Only one way to gain more experience with this is do it yourself. If that screws up you can then sub it out. :thumbsup:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> And why help a painter:whistling2:


Probably for the same reason that painters have given drywallers a few tips when we want to do a bit of painting. :yes:

Gotta watch that 2buck there NJPainter, he has a hard on against painters for some reason. Doesn't take much to set him off. :whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

A PC sander pops in head everytime a h/o ask about flatting out there 1970s heavy slap brush texture.. I've turned down alot of these lately ....A PC dustless sander may be the next big purchase for me...It could pay for itself in just 2-3 of these type jobs.


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## NJPainter (Oct 8, 2012)

Thanks Mud. I'm from the school of good kharma...find a way to help others and they'll find a way to help you. We're all in this to make a living. If you're confident in what you do than it shouldn't matter how much you share with the next guy. There's plenty work to go around for quality contractors.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> And why help a painter:whistling2:


Why help anyone then?
I don't discriminate between who gets help and who doesn't.
One day I'm going to need something at which point I'm going to ask a question...and I'll be hoping that on the reciprocating end somewhere is another guy just like me. 



Mudshark said:


> Gotta watch that 2buck there NJPainter, he has a hard on against painters for some reason. Doesn't take much to set him off. :whistling2:


I'm pretty sure 2buck is like the hulk...
He's just always angry :jester:







moore said:


> A PC sander pops in head everytime a h/o ask about flatting out there 1970s heavy slap brush texture.. I've turned down alot of these lately ....A PC dustless sander may be the next big purchase for me...It could pay for itself in just 2-3 of these type jobs.


I don't know how much use a PC sander would be in that situation Moore...If it's a heavy texture it will most likely just tear the crap out of your paper..
Also, if the designs been painted the sander won't take anything off either...
But, all of that aside..the PC sander is a good investment in general.
Used mine today for my weekend sidejob! :thumbsup:


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## Tucker (Feb 2, 2012)

I always try to talk the client into over hanging with 1/4 inch. Knock off the high spots and overlay. You can zip bead, or have client take off trim. I hate trying to float out heavy texture. More work in floating out 3-4 times to make flat..IMO


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Tucker said:


> I always try to talk the client into over hanging with 1/4 inch. Knock off the high spots and overlay. You can zip bead, or have client take off trim. I hate trying to float out heavy texture. More work in floating out 3-4 times to make flat..IMO


That's actually exactly what I did in the picture above Tucker.
We just hung 1/2" right over the design. Instead of trying to float it and kill your shoulder making it flat, just re-drywall it.
That way you get an entirely new ceiling.
A box of mud and a sheet of drywall are roughly the same cost.
I rather hang a sheet once then to have to skim a ceiling three times.
If at all possible, I always recommend going with new board.

But in this guys case, it sounds like it's a whole house..that wouldn't work everywhere...It would just create more work for everyone.

It's fine when it just one or two ceilings. Then you can just use longer screws to fasten the light, or buy an electrical box extension
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/switch-box-extension-bag-of-1/977582

But if you have to do the whole house...wow...then everything has to change..every single door jam would have to be extended a half inch, all the electrical boxes would need extensions..that's allot of work too.
At that point I think I rather roll it all and do a level 5.

But any other time, new drywall!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Why help anyone then?
> 
> They say the older you get, the more you resort back to being a infant. So I'm going to start living by their rules, while I still have a memory


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> PrecisionTaping said:
> 
> 
> > Why help anyone then?
> ...


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> 2buckcanuck said:
> 
> 
> > Okay, now, without scrolling up and looking at the image you just posted, can you tell me the 9 rules without looking?
> ...


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> I do remember the one that says if you put it down and your not using it..... IT'S MINE
> 
> You can send me the power sander your not using in the pic above:thumbup:


Clearly you don't read what I have to say...


PrecisionTaping said:


> *Used mine today* for my weekend sidejob! :thumbsup:


I already know what I'm going to say you know that right?
I say those things so that you can read them. They're not for me.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Used mine today for my weekend sidejob! :thumbsup:
> 
> Read rule #9
> 
> ...


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Used mine today for my weekend sidejob! :thumbsup:
> 
> Read rule #9
> 
> ...


Well, come to Sudbury for a week or two and grab it. :thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

How heavy are we talking here?

On real heavy textures I like to scrape the big stuff with a Hyde 4" floor scraper. Real heavy duty blade and you can sharpen it.....it's like a giant chisel:thumbsup: 

And, you're probably not going to want to do it, but 90 minute hot mud works real good, especially if you add glue. Then, you can skip the mesh. If you've got a pile of guys, at least one of them can be following behind the batches of hot mud as they are setting up, and "burnishing" it out. You can get rid of a lot of the "bubbles over paint" that happen this way.

Otherwise, you can use a Taping/all-purpose mud with glue in it (again, skip the mesh), even add some for good measure, and coat it pretty heavy, trying to smooth it out as you go, but not really having any of the old texture showing through....then you can sand it real well and maybe only have to do a tight skim or touch-up after.

I don't see any reason to use tape/mesh/Fiba-fuse, unless there's something crazy going on.

However.....I *would* recommend that you sub it out. That's a big job for a first time, and it sounds high budget? If so, share the wealth with your taper friends, make money on the paint end, and keep a good name for your business:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Well, come to Sudbury for a week or two and grab it. :thumbsup:


Are you crazy, you said in one post it was snowing there already:blink:

I live in the banana belt of Canada, we barely get any snow, less than Pennsylvania actually :whistling2:


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

You can absolutely skim over textured walls. An 18" pool trowel, 6" drywall knife, and a hawk are the preferred tools. Joint compound will stick quite nicely to most any substrates. I've even covered tile. I'm not joking. In this video I'm going over knockdown, painted texture, but I've gone over heavy skip trowel w/o priming. 
http://youtu.be/hlOmSLynhBc


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

I did a new Experiment today. Skim coating a Painted textured ceiling In high humidity Really slows things down. Two hours later the durabond still hasn't set, I got my spray bottle filled with water and mixed accelerator into it. Fog sprayed the durabond, And the durabond set 30 minutes later rock hard and dry. Eureka! Was able to put a top coat on today and will be able to finish tomorrow.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Nick Harmon said:


> You can absolutely skim over textured walls. An 18" pool trowel, 6" drywall knife, and a hawk are the preferred tools. Joint compound will stick quite nicely to most any substrates. I've even covered tile. I'm not joking. In this video I'm going over knockdown, painted texture, but I've gone over heavy skip trowel w/o priming.
> http://youtu.be/hlOmSLynhBc


Great on the pool trowel and was planning a compliment to you, 

some around here tool guys that just keep adding tools, I went out and got a Level 5 Sprayer, never seen Smeardown cover so quick wiped with 24 inch Blade


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Great on the pool trowel and was planning a compliment to you,
> 
> some around here tool guys that just keep adding tools, I went out and got a Level 5 Sprayer, never seen Smeardown cover so quick wiped with 24 inch Blade


yes I spray my mud than roll ff up the wall then I do what you do on my finish coat


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> yes I spray my mud than roll ff up the wall then I do what you do on my finish coat


Why ff, just blow on wipe first then lean on the sprayer next kote


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

If the texture is quite heavy I have a couple of 5" angle grinders w/VARIABLE SPEED CONTROL. I put a sanding disk and #60 disk sandpaper run as slow as it will go (2000 rpm) to knock the tops of a heavy skip trowel texture or heavy splatter. Open windows and put an air mover in one or two of the windows blowing outwards with a tube and filter to keep the air as clean as possible. Then skimout walls and ceilings, straightedge and fix everything that needs it with a plaster rod, and skim some more. Then touchup and sand. Sand the touchup. Touchup the sanding. Sand again. Sponge. And I would do this only when there is absolutely nothing else to do for work and I need the money. And it is a valuable client. We are just finishing a level 5 skimout over crappy heavy splatter and crappy original finish. It seems never ending.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Another caveat. Even after cleaning dust off the walls, I have on occasion had trouble with light weight joint compound (sheetrock brand from H.D.) delaminating from painted walls when spread somewhat heavy in a skim. ( 1/16" all combined) We use a conventional hard all purpose for the first coat to the walls. Seems to stick better. Hard to sand.


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## Nick Harmon (Feb 16, 2013)

Here at Fresco Harmony we have coated over 200,000 sq ft of painted textured surface. *I've never, in all that time, had Sheetrock brand lightweight ap joint compound delaminate from a surface*. Last week we covered a real heavy texture. The only problem we ran into was that the surface burned 10 boxes of mud on the base coat. We had 20 hours into the project. No sanding, no dust, and no primer. 14 boxes of mud, 14 color packs 7 Persian Berry, and 7 Apodaca Gold (www.frescoharmony.com), and 1.5 gal of mm venetian topcoat. Total material cost 450. This was twice as much material as a normal job due to the heavy substrate. I really like slim Pickens approach. In retrospect I would have floated a preliminary quickset coat for added smoothness. The job paid 1525 610 sq ft @ 2.50 per sq ft and she tipped me 300 (which never happens).


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I Like that red .


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