# Review for the vario tapeless mud



## joepro0000

Ok so I got 2 samples buckets of this mud from Gary, and been so busy with work I didn't get a chance to use it up until about 3 weeks ago.
I mud claims it doesn't need taping over any joints, and will not crack later. In order to verify it will not crack, I waited 3 weeks to go back and see if it cracked, and the outcome is no! The mud did not crack and is a very good material. I will need to use it more, to grow confidence with it, but it is like a 30 min. versian on durabond, except it goes on very smooth and slick. The stuff drys fast, and doesn't need to be skimming with joint compound after, vs using durabond. I used it as a prefill, then 1st coat, followed by a 2th coat, and a final skim coat with it. See pictures attached!

Thanks, Gary!


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## rebel20

joepro0000 said:


> Ok so I got 2 samples buckets of this mud from Gary, and been so busy with work I didn't get a chance to use it up until about 3 weeks ago.
> I mud claims it doesn't need taping over any joints, and will not crack later. In order to verify it will not crack, I waited 3 weeks to go back and see if it cracked, and the outcome is no! The mud did not crack and is a very good material. I will need to use it more, to grow confidence with it, but it is like a 30 min. versian on durabond, except it goes on very smooth and slick. The stuff drys fast, and doesn't need to be skimming with joint compound after, vs using durabond. I used it as a prefill, then 1st coat, followed by a 2th coat, and a final skim coat with it. See pictures attached!
> 
> Thanks, Gary!


looks good thanks for the coments Joe


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## A+ Texture LLC

That looks like a happy drywall repair. Good job Joe.


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## silverstilts

I am still interested if why it would not crack even a hairline crack. What is the stuff made out of ?


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## Tim0282

I am thinking I read there are a lot of fiberglass fibers in it. Not sure about that, though.


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## rebel20

Silver there are the polymers in it that create the bond and Tim no there are not any fibreglass fibers in it. Silver send me a pm with contact info and I will send you some then you can make your own judgement of the product. I am sure you have scrap board laying around try it there.

Rebel


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## Quality1st

*Really, No Tape*

No where not even in angles. I,m not saying it isn,t possible,but its a scary concept. No builder i know would let me try it on his building. I,d have to lock the doors and get it first coated so noone would know. And then pray like hell it didn,t crack.


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## rebel20

Quality1st said:


> No where not even in angles. I,m not saying it isn,t possible,but its a scary concept. No builder i know would let me try it on his building. I,d have to lock the doors and get it first coated so noone would know. And then pray like hell it didn,t crack.


Thats what many have said the Architects and builders loved it

I gave an opportunity for anyone to try this mud. It still goes.


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## rebel20

This came in from a tester in NJ

RE: AW: AW: tapeless mudd
From: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
hey great stuff i just used it today on a bathroom and i must say im sold. dries quick, mixes easier than others and goes on smooth. i ran about a half of a bag short so how can i get some 55lb bags.



Tester was from a different forum I will try to get pics from him to post

Rebel


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## alltex

I am trying it now in a couple rooms in a big house.didn,t use it in the angles it just seems faster with the gun .Its real smooth and mixes easy.I like it.I did another small one with it using glass tape then finished with topping .worked great sanded out alot easyer too.Get home depo to carry it!


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## rebel20

(Get home depo to carry it!)

I will see what I can do for you out there

rebel


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## rhardman

I read that many of the HD stores have the autonomy to try new products and see how customers take to them.

Their biggest concern is the supply chain.

Go get 'em Compadre' !!! :thumbup:


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## kgphoto

I was able to use this mud for the first time today. I found it was harder to mix, by that I mean stiffer than Westpac/Hamiltons Easy Sand. It didn't get as "loose" when I added more water to the initial mix. However, once mixed, it was very creamy and spreadable. This allowed making corrections and blending areas very simply. I put a fan, no heat, on it and was able to get three coats on in one day. I touched up sanded it and then skim coated with a General Purpose mud, which is my preferred choice for my skim. It sanded nicely, but I noticed a few poc marks and some "light coverage" areas, so that is why I skimmed. It was probably due to the fact I didn't use my light, just the room lights and overlooked these few spots. Tomorrow I will sand and then prime and paint. I have some areas that didin't get a skim of GP so I will be able to see if there is any differnce in primer absorption. Overall, I like it. I will need to test it on a larger area and mix larger amounts.


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## rhardman

*Quick question rebel...*

Since the Vario is a setting material can you confirm that a fan or heat won't have a dramatic effect on the set time? Usually a faster set can be achieved by adding hot water or 20 minute hotmud to the mix. This is true with hot mud or plaster, I'm just not sure about your product.

I guess a fan might help to evaporate the water which would make the next coat (of regular mud) dry faster. But if there is some plaster in there, it would disipate the water anyway.

???


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## rebel20

Direct fan and heat won't have much effect on the setting process. The set process may vary 8-12 min each way. Hot water only allows it to Mix easier the setting time stays the same. We tested this about 3 weeks ago. And blowing a fan on it only throughs dust into the mud not recommended for any mud as far as I am concerned. I don't recommend adding another manufactures mud to it as this will null the warrenty. The chemical process that takes place is a cold fusion it does not give off heat as it hardens not like the standard fast setting compounds, thus "Hot Mud". 
Vario Tapeless Joint Compound contains a proprietary mix of polymer additives. The polymers in Vario give it the necessary tensile strength to bridge joints securely without tape. 

As soon as your first coat has taken an initial set, you can scrape any high spots with your knife and apply a second coat. Since the mud is setting rather than drying, the second coat won't slow the setting of the first coat.


I see KG used a fan which was not necessary as the setting time is 45 min he still could have finished the three coats in 1 day

Rebel


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## rebel20

Ok guys got to remember here I’m not a finisher learned to hang drywall have drywall business in Germany and contract out the finish side. I was sitting at my dad’s and said I am tired of looking at the cracks in the front foyer so let’s fix them. What I thought was going to be a quick fix on the plaster turned out to be a job in itself. When I started grooving out the plaster it started falling from the wall. So then it started, I removed all the loose plaster as seen in the pictures and started a long process of redoing the wall with Vario. Need to say I only had so many tools to work with as I was not expecting to do this and did not see the sense in going and buying $100 worth of tools. I did have to buy a trowel because I couldn’t work with the drywall knives just my preference.


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## rebel20

Here the Pic's


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## rebel20

I had a small bucket no pan. I have also put skim coat of mud over the existing Plaster and paint no primer just to test for those guys out there that keep asking the question of mud over paint. And the threads bubbles when mudding over paint and so forth. I must say I had fine bubbles in a 1 in. area but when I swiped trowel over it they disappeared immediately. And there were three coats of paint pink (probably primer), green and yellow.

The results I am sure if one of you guys would have done it been much better and probable in a fraction of the time it took me to do it. I also mixed the mud with hot water to see what the results in setting time would be, there was no difference. The only difference in setting time was on the painted surface which took about 25 minutes longer to set. As I am leaving for Germany tomorrow my brother will do the finishing touches. Sand, touch up and paint if they even decide to do this. My dad may say has a rustical touch to it and sand and paint.

I will try to have my dad take a picture once a month to post to see the results of the mud over paint, plaster no primer.

New pic after 1 month vario still holding. Kinda yellow camera setting will try to get better pic next time.


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## kgphoto

Further update.

Now that I have been back to the job I can see that after it is fully dry, it is a harder surface to sand. When it was "green" it sanded very easy, now not so much. Using a sponge backed sandpaper, it wasn't cut well and sanded the softer skim around it leaving a bump. I didn't have a hard backed sander with me on this job.

I did find that it scrapes very easily. By this, I mean I could shave it with my sharp painter's tool (think wide chisel) and it didn't chatter or break out, but shaved cleanly. This is a fast, low dust way to take care of bumps.

I notice it did shrink more than the Easy Sand on the Nail holes. That is not a big deal as I was planning on multiple coats. I will try a larger patch and see how much it shrinks there.

Definitely wear a mask when mixing and sanding this material.

You may be right that I didn't need a fan, but it seemed to make it go faster. I will run a timed test on another day.

I didn't mix any other mud into the Vario. I just used a skim coat of GP once it was dry. I typically do this when I work with hot mud, so if there is any touch up sanding required, it is a softer mud and the sanding goes very quickly.

The bubbles (pock marks) I got were easily removed by a second wipe of the knife. The one I overlooked was because I didn't have my bright light on the wall when I worked. As I get older I notice I need brighter light to see things that I used to be able to see without it.


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## thesprayking

Rebel, I used the mud the other day on a job where all the off-angles had cracked in one room. I did 3 with regular straight-flex tape and hot mud, then one with no tape and your vario product. I did not have any problems with the vario at all. No cracking, very smooth mixing, easy working time(25mins). The only problem I had was I had no straight line to work with because I used no tape (just for experimental), kinda hard keeping a straight line but it worked. I only used this because the job is literally around the corner from my home and the GC is a friend and loves new products. I plan on using it in a bathroom this coming week. I will save a complete wall to do with the mud, and compare it to the other walls. Also it will get spray textured. I will remember to bring my camera to work this time.


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## joepro0000

Can this mud be used in a fire-wall, just mud it without taping?


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## akcajun

joe by the manufactures website..it can be used as firetape...it has the specs on the web site


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## kgphoto

akcajun said:


> joe by the manufactures website..it can be used as firetape...it has the specs on the web site


Ah, but does it have local approval? There's the rub.


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## akcajun

it does have a us patent if thats what your referring too.. I have used it on 2 jobs so far and love it


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## kgphoto

No not a patent. In Los Angeles, all materials have to be approved for use for their specific application. If it is not approved, then it can only be used if an engineer or architect puts their license up for backing it. On Fire Resistive Assemblies, the City follows the FIRE RESISTANCE DESIGN MANUAL (GA-600-09) Vol 19.


Here's where you can get a copy:

http://www.gypsum.org/purchase.html


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## rebel20

kgphoto said:


> No not a patent. In Los Angeles, all materials have to be approved for use for their specific application. If it is not approved, then it can only be used if an engineer or architect puts their license up for backing it. On Fire Resistive Assemblies, the City follows the FIRE RESISTANCE DESIGN MANUAL (GA-600-09) Vol 19.
> 
> 
> Here's where you can get a copy:
> 
> http://www.gypsum.org/purchase.html


First why would you pay for the manual when its free
http://www.gypsum.org/download.html

Second the drywall joint compound is not listed so where does it state it in the GA-600-09 which compound you must use? Mud and tape are decorative.


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## rebel20

rebel20 said:


> I had a small bucket no pan. I have also put skim coat of mud over the existing Plaster and paint no primer just to test for those guys out there that keep asking the question of mud over paint. And the threads bubbles when mudding over paint and so forth. I must say I had fine bubbles in a 1 in. area but when I swiped trowel over it they disappeared immediately. And there were three coats of paint pink (probably primer), green and yellow.
> 
> The results I am sure if one of you guys would have done it been much better and probable in a fraction of the time it took me to do it. I also mixed the mud with hot water to see what the results in setting time would be, there was no difference. The only difference in setting time was on the painted surface which took about 25 minutes longer to set. As I am leaving for Germany tomorrow my brother will do the finishing touches. Sand, touch up and paint if they even decide to do this. My dad may say has a rustical touch to it and sand and paint.
> 
> I will try to have my dad take a picture once a month to post to see the results of the mud over paint, plaster no primer.
> 
> 
> New pic after 1 month vario still holding. Kinda yellow camera setting will try to get better pic next time.


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## kgphoto

Rebel,

Next time, just set your white balance to tungsten or indoors, or your kelvin temperature to 3400. If you have a photo editing software, like Elements or Photoshop, you can use your white balance eyedropper tool to pic a neutral in the scene to color correct this image.


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## rebel20

Ya I know that but I did not take the picture it came from my dad in Michigan. I did the wall when I was there at Christmas time.


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## kgphoto

You can still fix it in post. If you want to email me the original file, I can adjust it and send it back to you.


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## Mudslinger

....


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## rebel20

PM From Drywalltalk user


recd your mud on mon feb 15...I am doing some work on a habitat house in ellsworth maine. I used the Vario to run an angle (no tape) and i used it to coat some blisters. I have photos of the angle and blisters for you and will send them so all can see. Just from using the mud, I am quite impressed with application factor. 

I also used the mud to circle some boxes which had ruptured. Found it very easy to avoid lap marks from wet mud coming into itself from oppostite directions as opposed to regular 'hot mud" which it is almost unavoidable to do such. 

I also used your product to tape and coat around shower enclosures and to coat some screws which had been left off by the volunteers. I look forward to going back and checking the product before sanding and after priming. I like the fact that the mud dries to a different color as opposed to dying my mud for touchups. 

I would like to know what the price and availability would be for someone like me who lives in a somewhat remote area. I also run the "tools" (boxes, pumps) and would like to know if there are plans for a product which we will be able to run thru the tools. 

Thanks for your time. Will keep you posted I visit the habitat house

He sent Pics also will post them at later time


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Here are the photos referenced in the last post. I apologize for the quality they were taken from the phone. We ran both sides of an angle which had not been taped but had been prefilled with hot mud...AWESOME. Also circled some boxes. Every box on the job had to be fixed. This was a volunteer project so someone was learning the zip tool obviously. We also taped around the shower enclosures. This stuff ROCKS. I have already spoken with the distribution rep. I look forward to using this on my next job. The only downside I would see where I live is that there are a bunch of cheap BA$%@*&DS, and of course the no tape thing would have them looking at me like I had a third eye, but that aside, I will have no problem using this on my own jobs. I am going to recommend it at my local stock yard. Thanks Gary.


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## Tim0282

Wonder why it doesn't crack... I am a bit skeptical not using tape...


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## rebel20

Vario Tapeless Joint Compound contains a proprietary mix of polymer additives. Ordinary compounds contain mostly gypsum products with very little tensile strength, which is why tape is needed to bridge joints. The polymers in Vario give it the necessary tensile strength to bridge joints securely without tape.


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## Tim0282

Sounds good. Wouldn't mind trying it. Wonder if it is sold on this side of the pond. Any idea?


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## rebel20

yes it is our warehouse and headquarters are in N.C.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Hey Tim, I'd be less skeptical about using mud without tape than tape without mud. Have you seen that stuff? The vario is pretty sweet. Angle with no tape in Maine, exterior wall, 20 outside 70 inside. No cracks. It's going to cost you little more than your regular hotmud but I give it a big :thumbsup: Bill


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## Tim0282

Thanks for the review. Sounds great in those bathroom remodels that they want done in one day. :thumbup:


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

My thoughts exactly Tim...I do alot of those. I also have just been asked to fix a bunch of cracks in a 7 yo pre fab home in Portland. I have a bag of the Vario left so I think I'll use it on some of the areas and be able to send info on that as well. I'll take my digital this time so the photos should be better quality.


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## alltex

I just used it on 2 different basement jobs,One was a flood job (it has 2 feet removed at the bottom and we patch it in).done many of these ,not having to string tape is a dream come true for my back. Used vario for the first time about 3 months ago,no phone colls yet!


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## MeatBallDryWall

Can someone post a Mfg's link to this product as I'd LOVE to try it out.


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## Tim0282

www.edp-inc.net

There ya have it. :thumbup:


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## rhardman

I was at the wife's dance studio and saw that a halo I had framed and rocked a few years ago settled a bit in the office leaving some cracks through the seams. It buckled some plastic bull nose too. I also installed some sissy girl lighting tubes which run over the same area.

I think I found a perfect use for the vario mud. 

I'll get pictures and post them next week.


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## Tim0282

We used it on an office this week. Shrinks quite a bit. Took three coats to make it smooth. So about the same as using taping.


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## rhardman

Did you tape the seams? If not, I can get around the lighting posts much easier. 

Is there any sign of cracking at all?


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## Tim0282

We did not tape any of the joints. We "v'd" out the butt joints and ran over the flats with a six inch. Then came back and hit them with a ten inch. They were still really shallow, so we hit them again. They look great. Nice mud to work with. Mixes easy in a pan or with this great mixer this guy sent me to try...:whistling2:


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## alltex

I,m in a 300 sheeter.I decided ,what the hell.,taped the butts and headers with paper ,then used my 7 inch box and hot pump and boxed the whole thing with vario and no tape on the flats.I bet i saved 5 hrs of tape stringing (i work alone).So if i charge $35 per hr. i saved $175 by skipping the tape on the flats,not to mention the wear and tear on the bazooka and my body.I,v used this system 3 or 4 times now and still no coll backs .Vario mud been very good to me.The only bad thing is it sets in 45 minutes so i had to wash up 3 or 4 times .


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## Tim0282

I wondered if it would work better with the box. You can crown it a bit and get rid of the shrinkage. That is what I want to do the next time. I think it is good mud. They say you can do angles with it. I don't know... Wish it was a little more available in the area. The closest dealer is over two hours away.


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## alltex

Tim0282 said:


> I wondered if it would work better with the box. You can crown it a bit and get rid of the shrinkage. That is what I want to do the next time. I think it is good mud. They say you can do angles with it. I don't know... Wish it was a little more available in the area. The closest dealer is over two hours away.


 the flats i boxed hardly shrank ,i ran the 7 inch box on 2 and only wiped down what needed it.


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## pipercub17

ok now i wanna try it


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## rebel20

alltex said:


> The only bad thing is it sets in 45 minutes so i had to wash up 3 or 4 times .


 
Im in talks with the manufacture now about a 90, 120 or 180 or even 220 I put a post under general discussion on the best setting time let me know what you think. Basically this product can be made to set at any time.


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## kgphoto

For patching, I would be more interested in 5 minute and 20 minute mud.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

just used what was left of my batch on a bathroom reno. Turn of the century house saved the walls owner sheetrocked the lid. Owner/realtor had taped one of the angles and the flat. Both pieces had to be removed. We ran all the angles NO TAPE and the flat no tape. Did not skim over it just touched up some minor areas after priming with some drydex. Place looks tight. Also used what was left in my pan to fill a void in entrance way new sheetrock return going into existing rock. Huge gap I did not encounter any shrinkage...angle looks sharp...LOVE THIS STUFF


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## rebel20

Tim0282 said:


> We did not tape any of the joints. We "v'd" out the butt joints and ran over the flats with a six inch. Then came back and hit them with a ten inch. They were still really shallow, so we hit them again. They look great. Nice mud to work with. Mixes easy in a pan or with this great mixer this guy sent me to try...:whistling2:


Tim you may have mixed it to thin. One needs to mix it a little thicker than normal mud on the first coat. I have had this also with our tests and found that to much water it will shink quite a bit more than normal.

rebel


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## rebel20

For all the testers I am dedicating a new page on our web site so to say free advertising if you have pic's get them to me all of you have my e-Mail. I will post all your comments there good or bad and a link to this thread. If you want a link to your site or your address posted PM me or send me an E-mail stating so. There are also a few who have yet to respond. I will also be fair to those that have not tested. In about two months I will set up a friends page with a link to your site.

Rebel


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## rhardman

The "Friends" tab is an excellent idea and one the current "leaders" don't comprehend. I firmly believe that the new leaders of tomorrow (in drywall) are forming long term relationships right now.

Kudo's to your samples Rebel as well as the "Friends" page, they're a great stride forward.

Rick


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## Tim0282

rebel20 said:


> Tim you may have mixed it to thin. One needs to mix it a little thicker than normal mud on the first coat. I have had this also with our tests and found that to much water it will shink quite a bit more than normal.
> 
> rebel


Thank you, Rebel! Also wondered if I should have just coated real tight the first time over and then fill the reccession. I will try it stiffer next time. I bet that was the main problem.


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## rebel20

*90Min*



rebel20 said:


> Im in talks with the manufacture now about a 90, 120 or 180 or even 220 I put a post under general discussion on the best setting time let me know what you think. Basically this product can be made to set at any time.


Finally got word back from the manufacture 90 and 120 min are in the lab for testing right now hope to have ready for next shippment which goes out in July


Rebel


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## kgphoto

rebel20 said:


> For all the testers I am dedicating a new page on our web site so to say free advertising if you have pic's get them to me all of you have my e-Mail. I will post all your comments there good or bad and a link to this thread. If you want a link to your site or your address posted PM me or send me an E-mail stating so. There are also a few who have yet to respond. I will also be fair to those that have not tested. In about two months I will set up a friends page with a link to your site.
> 
> Rebel


You should put your website in your signature line, (I believe that is allowed) That way it is easy to find your site.


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## rebel20

More pics

no. 89 was this message
What to do with your leftover vario before it freezes up in your pan. Piss off the painters


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## rebel20

This was supposed to be before the last post

Sorry about the quality came down here without my digital figuring I would be whipping thru stormwork. Photos of a mall buildout. Vario used without tape

After the new owner was satisfied on the buildout of his new office, he turned us loose on the main area with our Fugenspatchel Flying. Coated all walls where previous shelving had been attached as well as the demoed dressing rooms. Followed with first coat (sprayed) and finish coats. Completed photos to follow when we return prior to grand opening.


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## rebel20

*vario 120 min*

Got the 120 min comming in October


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## tricounty dwall

Ive got some on the way for me to try out on a commercial job we are doing. Now if it requires no taping is it safe to run in my boxes? If so can i just box it with a 10 after i hang it or what needs to be done as far is there any prep?


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## Tim0282

I did. And it worked great. It is a setting material. So you want to make sure you have water for cleaning the pump and box. Nice working mud. You'll like it, I bet.


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## tricounty dwall

How is it on sanding? I know most things like durabond even tho it says easy sand is like going outside and sanding the driveway.


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## rebel20

tricounty dwall said:


> Ive got some on the way for me to try out on a commercial job we are doing. Now if it requires no taping is it safe to run in my boxes? If so can i just box it with a 10 after i hang it or what needs to be done as far is there any prep?


Prep is basically 1/4 45° on the butts I would recommend a 7" or 8" for the bed coat then you can either use the vario to finish as it is paintable or a finish mud. you might want to even go with a nail spotter for the butts then an 8". The tool manuf. are not liking this because you really only need max a 10" that would make the 12 obsolete.

As for sanding I have feedback sometimes easy some times hard. I myself through all the testing I have done, have not had a problem. But I scraped and sanded within 1 hour of initial setup.

I have some feedback after waiting 3 hours it was harder to sand. some have waited over 24hrs to sand and have also not had a problem. the last post I made on here was feedback from one of the members and he uses it everyday and I have not heard from him about sanding problems.

rebel


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## Saul_Surfaces

I do some patch work for a GC following a big commercial outfit that misses a butt load of boxes on boarding and initial mudding. when the electricians cut the boxes out the board blisters and breaks from the tension its under. 

Can I fix those blisters with vario without taping? That would be a world quicker than filling with setting compound and taping them like I do now. 

The unit I just left had broken/blistered board around 12 boxes!!!


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## rebel20

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I do some patch work for a GC following a big commercial outfit that misses a butt load of boxes on boarding and initial mudding. when the electricians cut the boxes out the board blisters and breaks from the tension its under.
> 
> Can I fix those blisters with vario without taping? That would be a world quicker than filling with setting compound and taping them like I do now.
> 
> The unit I just left had broken/blistered board around 12 boxes!!!


 
Saul
Yes you can, Link is below you will find canada rep there.


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## Saul_Surfaces

Great news! I'll be looking forward to trying it.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I do some patch work for a GC following a big commercial outfit that misses a butt load of boxes on boarding and initial mudding. when the electricians cut the boxes out the board blisters and breaks from the tension its under.
> 
> Can I fix those blisters with vario without taping? That would be a world quicker than filling with setting compound and taping them like I do now.
> 
> The unit I just left had broken/blistered board around 12 boxes!!!


42 of the 43 boxes in the house I am wrapping up now were cut wrong. No way to cover even with oversized plates. When the GC got booted I stayed on to complete the job for H/O. We fixed the boxes with the Vario no tape. For anyone that has their doubts, there was a door on this job where the hole for the door knob had been cut incorrectly. We stuffed that mistake with Vario, came back the next day, drilled it out and installed the door knob. Now, I understand that this is not what it was intended to do, but it did away with alot of doubts as far as cracking is concerned for the disbelievers.


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## DSJOHN

FOR THOSE ABOUT said:


> 42 of the 43 boxes in the house I am wrapping up now were cut wrong. No way to cover even with oversized plates. When the GC got booted I stayed on to complete the job for H/O. We fixed the boxes with the Vario no tape. For anyone that has their doubts, there was a door on this job where the hole for the door knob had been cut incorrectly. We stuffed that mistake with Vario, came back the next day, drilled it out and installed the door knob. Now, I understand that this is not what it was intended to do, but it did away with alot of doubts as far as cracking is concerned for the disbelievers.


Where you been dude? No working Sundays----Football. Ive never tried the stuff where did you find it?


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## Saul_Surfaces

FOR THOSE ABOUT said:


> 42 of the 43 boxes in the house I am wrapping up now were cut wrong. No way to cover even with oversized plates. When the GC got booted I stayed on to complete the job for H/O. We fixed the boxes with the Vario no tape. For anyone that has their doubts, there was a door on this job where the hole for the door knob had been cut incorrectly. We stuffed that mistake with Vario, came back the next day, drilled it out and installed the door knob. Now, I understand that this is not what it was intended to do, but it did away with alot of doubts as far as cracking is concerned for the disbelievers.


Thanks for the story. I've got three bags on order and am looking forward to trying them. Maybe with even a little more enthusiasm now.


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## Saul_Surfaces

DSJOHN said:


> Where you been dude? No working Sundays----Football. Ive never tried the stuff where did you find it?


I ordered mine from the contact in Michigan on the EDP website. The shipping was quite reasonable.


----------



## JustMe

Saul_Surfaces said:


> Thanks for the story. I've got three bags on order and am looking forward to trying them. Maybe with even a little more enthusiasm now.


Saul,

Could you tell me if you were able to order the bags from some supplier in Canada?


----------



## Saul_Surfaces

JustMe said:


> Saul,
> 
> Could you tell me if you were able to order the bags from some supplier in Canada?


No, Apparently they're in discussions with SDS to sell it in Canada, but it doesn't sound like SDS is much into mail order for those of us not near an SDS store. The guys in Michigan are shipping it to a package handler I use on the US side. I didn't ask about having EDP ship to Canada. They're pretty helpful, so if they can they likely would.


----------



## Kiwiman

Sorry, but I'm too lazy to read back through all posts on Vario but can someone tell me a bit on the mud itself and how it obtains it's crack resistance etc... Does it have fibres in it or something?


----------



## rebel20

Vario Tapeless Joint Compound contains a proprietary mix of polymer additives. Ordinary compounds contain mostly gypsum products with very little tensile strength, which is why tape is needed to bridge joints. The polymers in Vario give it the necessary tensile strength to bridge joints securely without tape. 
Vario is a "hot" mud, which sets quickly by chemical reaction, rather than drying slowly. As soon as your first coat has taken an initial set, you can scrape any high spots with your knife and apply a second coat. Since the mud is setting rather than drying, the second coat won't slow the setting of the first coat.
Depending on temperature and humidity, Vario can be ready for sanding and painting in as little as three hours.


----------



## Kiwiman

rebel20 said:


> Vario Tapeless Joint Compound contains a proprietary mix of polymer additives. Ordinary compounds contain mostly gypsum products with very little tensile strength, which is why tape is needed to bridge joints. The polymers in Vario give it the necessary tensile strength to bridge joints securely without tape.
> Vario is a "hot" mud, which sets quickly by chemical reaction, rather than drying slowly. As soon as your first coat has taken an initial set, you can scrape any high spots with your knife and apply a second coat. Since the mud is setting rather than drying, the second coat won't slow the setting of the first coat.
> Depending on temperature and humidity, Vario can be ready for sanding and painting in as little as three hours.


 Thanks for that explanation Rebel :thumbsup:


----------



## FOR THOSE ABOUT

DSJOHN said:


> Where you been dude? No working Sundays----Football. Ive never tried the stuff where did you find it?


Sorry for my prolonged absence been working 7 days a week doing flood restoration in Nashville. Came here right after the flood 3 mos ago. 

I received two bags from Rebel (from here) during the winter and tried it out on a Habitat for Humanity House. Great stuff. Go to their link and they can hook you up. _www.edp-inc.net_ Bunch of good guys, with a good product.


----------



## rhardman

rebel20 said:


> Vario Tapeless Joint Compound contains a proprietary mix of polymer additives. Ordinary compounds contain mostly gypsum products with very little tensile strength, which is why tape is needed to bridge joints. The polymers in Vario give it the necessary tensile strength to bridge joints securely without tape.
> Vario is a "hot" mud, which sets quickly by chemical reaction, rather than drying slowly. As soon as your first coat has taken an initial set, you can scrape any high spots with your knife and apply a second coat. Since the mud is setting rather than drying, the second coat won't slow the setting of the first coat.
> Depending on temperature and humidity, Vario can be ready for sanding and painting in as little as three hours.


Through our research we've found several patents which have acrylic/polymer additives that eliminate cracking; so to support the Vario mud, time and time again it's a proven concept. The others don't have the setting ability like Rebels does (that I'm aware of) which makes it a better and more reliable product. :thumbsup:


----------



## rebel20

FOR THOSE ABOUT said:


> Sorry for my prolonged absence been working 7 days a week doing flood restoration in Nashville. Came here right after the flood 3 mos ago.
> 
> I received two bags from Rebel (from here) during the winter and tried it out on a Habitat for Humanity House. Great stuff. Go to their link and they can hook you up. _www.edp-inc.net_ Bunch of good guys, with a good product.


 
Next Project with Vario, Fireplace repair

rebel


----------



## Saul_Surfaces

I think you guys are glossing over the biggest advantage of Vario. Sure, the whole tapeless thing is cool for those willing to try it, but to my mind, the biggest advantage for the rest of us is that this is a chemical setting compound that doesn't pull between coats. I can pull, wipe, and manipulate the second coat of vario as much as I need without it binding. Try doing that with any other setting compound!


----------



## JustMe

Rebel,

About the 120 minute compound that's supposed to be coming out. How do you think it might work for putting on paper/metal bead in situations that are eg. time sensitive?


----------



## rebel20

JustMe said:


> Rebel,
> 
> About the 120 minute compound that's supposed to be coming out. How do you think it might work for putting on paper/metal bead in situations that are eg. time sensitive?


The 120min is no different than the 45 except the time the paper/metal bead will have no effect on the setting time if this is what you are asking.
Also as soon as it is set you can run the second coat.(120min)

The reason for the 120 min was to give enough time to run the mud in the tools without having to clean every 45 min. 
quote frrom our user what he felt was better 90 or 120.
120. Gives time to run corner bead box the joints on first coat and allow for cleanup.


----------



## JustMe

rebel20 said:


> The 120min is no different than the 45 except the time the paper/metal bead will have no effect on the setting time if this is what you are asking.(120min)


What I was actually meaning was how well might it work to put on the bead. No holding problems?


----------



## rebel20

JustMe said:


> What I was actually meaning was how well might it work to put on the bead. No holding problems?


Its's used here in Germany sometimes without corner bead I don't forsee any problems also we have here in germany the same types of bead as in the US, been being used for 25 years here without a problem. Also I have not heard anything from the US users that there was a problem.

You have a bag on the way try it. just make sure the mud is not mixed to thin.


----------



## JustMe

Rebel,

I got a chance to use some of the sample bag sent. Used it on 3 cracking 2' butt joints - below a couple windows and above a door opening - in a new building that seems to be settling some into the slough area that it was built on. We'll see how it holds, at least in the v'd out butt joint areas themselves, when nothing else in the other cracking areas of the building seems to be working. I went back yesterday to put on some finishing mud. No cracking at that point.

Haven't had a chance to try installing paper/metal corner bead with it yet, to see how it might coat out soon after the Vario sets.

Btw: I gave a carpenter at the job site some Vario I had left over, to coat some screws showing on the face of a couple knock down steel door frames he was putting in. He didn't know what he was going to use for it. I don't know how well it will hold for him, but it's maybe another possible market direction - patching for maybe other things - that could be looked at? Just a thought.

Look forward to trying your 120 minute.


----------



## rebel20

JustMe said:


> Rebel,
> 
> I got a chance to use some of the sample bag sent. Used it on 3 cracking 2' butt joints - below a couple windows and above a door opening - in a new building that seems to be settling some into the slough area that it was built on. We'll see how it holds, at least in the v'd out butt joint areas themselves, when nothing else in the other cracking areas of the building seems to be working. I went back yesterday to put on some finishing mud. No cracking at that point.
> 
> Haven't had a chance to try installing paper/metal corner bead with it yet, to see how it might coat out soon after the Vario sets.
> 
> Btw: I gave a carpenter at the job site some Vario I had left over, to coat some screws showing on the face of a couple knock down steel door frames he was putting in. He didn't know what he was going to use for it. I don't know how well it will hold for him, but it's maybe another possible market direction - patching for maybe other things - that could be looked at? Just a thought.
> 
> Look forward to trying your 120 minute.


Ya, Vario has also been used on other material as drywall it's not the actual purpose though. I here this all the time. Plaster, OSB Board, Miscut Door Knob Hole, Trim, Concrete stairs. And I just heard it's going to be tried on vinyl siding. Getting to be an all purpose mud. 

Rebel


----------



## JustMe

About the 3 2' butt joint cracks:

Bad news is that all 3 cracked again.

Good news is that except for one 3" long Vario crack down the middle in one of them, I'd say the gyproc to the sides of where the Vario bonded to it let go.

One butt joint cracked all the way down one side of one v'd joint, the other 2 cracked partway down one side, and partway down the other side; except for the 3" down the middle crack - at that point, there was no cracking to the sides of it.

Building wasn't built right enough to begin with. Nothing has worked to prevent the cracking going on at some joints.


----------



## SlimPickins

JustMe said:


> About the 3 2' butt joint cracks:
> 
> Bad news is that all 3 cracked again.
> 
> Good news is that except for one 3" long Vario crack down the middle in one of them, I'd say the gyproc to the sides of where the Vario bonded to it let go.
> 
> One butt joint cracked all the way down one side of one v'd joint, the other 2 cracked partway down one side, and partway down the other side; except for the 3" down the middle crack - at that point, there was no cracking to the sides of it.
> 
> Building wasn't built right enough to begin with. Nothing has worked to prevent the cracking going on at some joints.


That says that the vario is strong, but that the bond to the sheetrock wasn't impermeable. Did you sponge out the v-cut before applying the mud? (just curious....it could have been dust that kept a bond from forming)


----------



## JustMe

SlimPickins said:


> That says that the vario is strong, but that the bond to the sheetrock wasn't impermeable. Did you sponge out the v-cut before applying the mud? (just curious....it could have been dust that kept a bond from forming)


I blew on them, but didn't sponge or brush the joints, Slim. Maybe wasn't good enough(?) I'm going to mention that tomorrow, when we see about breaking out some Vario chunks from around some electrical box holes that needed building up, to see how well the Vario bonded in those instances.

The way the building has taken apart some of the other attempts to stop the cracking, I'm doubting that sponging before Vario-ing would've worked in this building. But I thought it would be one place to try it, just to see what might happen (like maybe crack in a different spot).


----------



## rebel20

Just,
How about a few pics this would help us to understand the cracking and maybe give a few suggestions on what to do. The dampening or brushing out the joints with water removes the larger particles and helps the bond. To understand is this a wood or metal framing? Residential or commercial? 
How many stories? Are the cracks in 1 location or all around the building?
We had a large temp drop in the auditorium which cracked everything even the columns. repaired it with vario and no problems after but that was mainly due to the concrete which on the addition settled 4" got a lot of rain and then temp drop shifted the whole building.


----------



## JustMe

About pics, rebel: The building is a little out of town, and I doubt I'll be making it back there anytime soon.

It's wood frame on the outside, steel on the inside: commercial; 2 stories, about 300' X 400'; cracks are all around the building, both floors, and worse on one end - every butt joint there that's above and below the windows cracked on that end.

I was talking to one guy yesterday about the building. He's familiar some with the building's construction, and listed off a # of items that could be contributing to the problem.

I was also talking today to the lead taper for most of that job. He said he can't remember seeing cracks showing up so quickly in a building.


----------



## rebel20

JustMe said:


> About pics, rebel: The building is a little out of town, and I doubt I'll be making it back there anytime soon.
> 
> It's wood frame on the outside, steel on the inside: commercial; 2 stories, about 300' X 400'; cracks are all around the building, both floors, and worse on one end - every butt joint there that's above and below the windows cracked on that end.
> 
> I was talking to one guy yesterday about the building. He's familiar some with the building's construction, and listed off a # of items that could be contributing to the problem.
> 
> I was also talking today to the lead taper for most of that job. He said he can't remember seeing cracks showing up so quickly in a building.


 
I could make a long list here as to where the problem could be but I am sure you have allready heard them. One solution expansion joints above all the windows and doors. Or live with the cracks till the building stops setteling.


----------



## JustMe

rebel20 said:


> I could make a long list here as to where the problem could be but I am sure you have allready heard them. One solution expansion joints above all the windows and doors. Or live with the cracks till the building stops setteling.


I think your long answer list would be what is needed for that place.

They've already gone to putting finish strips of a sort over the cracking in the bldg. sections where companies/organizations moved into a few months ago. That's what they'll probably do over the sections I'd Vario'd.

Regardless, I recommended that the company check into placing an order for your Vario. Hopefully the 120 minute will be available as well.


----------



## SlimPickins

That job sounds like a nightmare, and like there are some major issues with the groundwork. There have been times where I've told clients that we should wait a year before fixing anything...the house needs to settle and go through a heat cycle.

One house had a 5/8" gap in the wall angle against a vaulted ceiling....6 months later it was gone


----------



## JustMe

SlimPickins said:


> That job sounds like a nightmare, and like there are some major issues with the groundwork. There have been times where I've told clients that we should wait a year before fixing anything...the house needs to settle and go through a heat cycle.
> 
> One house had a 5/8" gap in the wall angle against a vaulted ceiling....6 months later it was gone


The groundwork was supposedly done by someone who was wanted by some of the representatives of the organization that was building it (the 'buddy' system). When I was testing AquaBead ('HydroTrim') in the place, and had thought to cut a # of pieces the same length at the same time using a chop saw that was around, I measured the height of some interior window space opening lengths, just to check and make sure before I started cutting. They were out so much that I had the field supervisor bring a laser out, to see if the openings the framing crew had done were level. They were spot on. It was the concrete floor that was so out of whack.


----------



## rebel20

*Vario 120*

Ok guys,
just a info to let everyone know the production has started for the 120 and when all goes well should be in NC bei 1st week Dec. or thereof. I will update as things get closer. For those waiting we should have all your mails answered by Friday next week. I know it's taking awhile but we have many processes to do to bring it to market as well as bargering to keep the price down for the end customer. Also to make sure the bags are in English 

Thankyou for the patience,


Rebel


----------



## rebel20

rebel20 said:


> Ok guys,
> just a info to let everyone know the production has started for the 120 and when all goes well should be in NC bei 1st week Dec. or thereof. I will update as things get closer. For those waiting we should have all your mails answered by Friday next week. I know it's taking awhile but we have many processes to do to bring it to market as well as bargering to keep the price down for the end customer. Also to make sure the bags are in English
> 
> Thankyou for the patience,
> 
> 
> Rebel


Production is finished tomorrow now its a matter for our shipping company to get it to NC as fast and best we can.

rebel


----------



## rebel20

alltex said:


> I,m in a 300 sheeter.I decided ,what the hell.,taped the butts and headers with paper ,then used my 7 inch box and hot pump and boxed the whole thing with vario and no tape on the flats.I bet i saved 5 hrs of tape stringing (i work alone).So if i charge $35 per hr. i saved $175 by skipping the tape on the flats,not to mention the wear and tear on the bazooka and my body.I,v used this system 3 or 4 times now and still no coll backs .Vario mud been very good to me.The only bad thing is it sets in 45 minutes so i had to wash up 3 or 4 times .


Forgot I had the pics for this here they are
rebel


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

rebel20 said:


> Forgot I had the pics for this here they are
> rebel


 If your getting it down faster without any callbacks, your the winner !!:thumbup:
And about the "setting up thing in 45 mins", that makes you work faster, and makes even more money,,,, you know, we a strange bunch, we do better, "under the gun",so anything that makes you stay on schedule, and stay at it,,,is the way to go.


----------



## JustMe

Capt-sheetrock said:


> And about the "setting up thing in 45 mins", that makes you work faster, and makes even more money,,,, you know, we a strange bunch, we do better, "under the gun",so anything that makes you stay on schedule, and stay at it,,,is the way to go.


I was mentioning to one the owners the other week about only having 45 mins. to work with the Vario sample I'd gotten. He brought up the same point about it maybe making people work faster.


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## rebel20

*vario 120*

The dates are set arrives port of Charleston 3 dec. expected arrival Lexington NC 7 Dec. I have a board meeting on Friday after that I will be getting pricing out to those who asked for it. I have also decided on a Thanksgiving special and giveaways that will need to be discussed with the board first.

Rebel


----------



## JustMe

rebel20 said:


> The dates are set arrives port of Charleston 3 dec. expected arrival Lexington NC 7 Dec. I have a board meeting on Friday after that I will be getting pricing out to those who asked for it. I have also decided on a Thanksgiving special and giveaways that will need to be discussed with the board first.
> 
> Rebel


Excellent. Make sure we're on that list, Rebel. We definitely want some, as well as more of the 45 minute.


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## rebel20

*Vario Test*

This came in today another happy customer

Hi Robb,
I used your product the other week on a closet that was included, last minute, in a house I had taped. I would have been making 3 more trips if I hadn't had the Vario. I followed the instructions, more or less and in less than 2 hours I was painting. With any left over on my hawk, I looked around for some big gaps to fill. I filled a 45 degree outside corner with no cornerbead or tape, just to see how it would work, and I wasn't disappointed. Finally a product that lives up to its billing.
When i went back the other day it still looked perfect, no hairline cracks; the butt joints looked great, there were no cracks on the cornerbead. This stuff is tough, easy to work with and the texture of the dried product is incredibly smooth. I would like to do some more experiments before I tackle a whole house, but that is the way I am thinking.
So, I am impressed. 
How can I get some more? Do you have minimum order sizes? Do you have wholesale pricing? 
What are your plans for distributing in Canada? 
Thanks for a great product.
Colin


----------



## chucksfiles1972

Can you find a place to get this stuff in the states? Ive heard that its only in Germany. I would really like to try it out on my warranty work. I'm also wondering how it would work on garage cracks here in Iowa due to the high temperature fluxuation.


----------



## Tim0282

You can order it direct from them. Comes out of Pennsylvania. Quite reasonably. I have a pallet coming Tuesday. :thumbsup:
http://www.edp-inc.net/

By the way Chuck, where is Patterson, Iowa??


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## chucksfiles1972

Hey Tim, thanks for the info. Patterson is just about 2o minutes south of Des Moines on I35.


----------



## rebel20

Tim0282 said:


> You can order it direct from them. Comes out of Pennsylvania. Quite reasonably. I have a pallet coming Tuesday. :thumbsup:
> http://www.edp-inc.net/
> 
> By the way Chuck, where is Patterson, Iowa??


Tim North Carolina


----------



## Tim0282

Whoops! Sorry Rebel! :icon_confused:


----------



## Tim0282

Hey Chuck, if you want to buy a few bags, I'll sell some.


----------



## Bill from Indy

Hey Gary....I'll try to paraphrase the IM..

I got a chance finally to try the vario 120 mud Tuesday...the situation was a 25 sheet office build out in a basement. I did use tape though on this job..mesh(i know) bedded with 10/skim with 12...got mesh taped..hit the 4 angles with the banjo using vario and rolled/glazed...boxed in flats..after running a double pull, I realized the vario pits a little more than I like...I don't know if it is not intended to do a heavy fill and I didn't soap the mud as I have never used it before..so...hit screws..put 2 sticks of bead on ran them by hand with vario..then ran over flats again...this was maybe 15min after initial box..pits were gone...went and goofed off..grabbed a bite and came back to skim..checked flats and bead with thumbnail and its hard...whipped up a bucket of midweight....proceeded to skim....this is where I got happy....NO BUBBLES...I cannot do this with quickset be it proform or es..always bubbles a little at least....had none...so, for me, this is worth its weight in gold alone...

It was fairly creamy..not sure I could say as creamy as ready mix mud, but defiantly better than quickset or 50/50...

overall impressions...good stuff...easily tooled with a little work...pits could have been a 1 time deal or maybe a little soap will fix it....I haven't used the product before so I didn't want to "experiment"....I think, for me, the 120 time is a bit much...I think 45 or 90 would have been better for this app, but for a 100+bd job I think it would fit right in...I didn't have the cahunas to try it with no tape

very impressive also under the glazer...you don't get the feeling your going over concrete when it comes time to pump out....no bubbles there either..

I do think I am going to call you and get some quicker stuff...I use a lot of 20/45 and 90..120 is just a bit much for me..but, like I said, on the bigger jobs I think it would be fine....you would have more cleanup time, but I do things the wrong way and dont advise..but I normally just pump water through pump...maybe 1/3 bucket then proceed to mud...as for box, I usually take lid off and hit it with brush but I don't generally run a sloppy box so not much to clean

Thank you for the chance to use your product. I think it is a great form of quickset for its creaminess, and awesome that it wont bubble with topcoat...i'll be contacting you for more soon

Thanks


----------



## Tim0282

Hey Bill, I use quite a bit of the Vario. Try mixing it a little stiffer than you would think possible for boxes and the pits will not be there.


----------



## justadrywallguy

Tim0282 said:


> Hey Chuck, if you want to buy a few bags, I'll sell some.


I think I am going to get ahold of you to buy a few bags to try out, if you dont mind.


----------



## SlimPickins

Alright Mr. Rebel, two questions for you:

1: Can vario be used to fill cracks without the benefit of a solid coat going over it? I have a client that has cracks, and wants to avoid all of the mess of respraying texture. Now, I could caulk them and get a temporary fix, but I would rather see how the vario works. Of course I will "v" everything and use to specs.

2. How does vario perform in wet areas? Most hot muds fail miserably when used in wet locations....true with vario as well? You guys done any water tests?

Thank you sir! (if the vario works on the cracks, and works well......that's a whole new ball game and I will shout it from the mountain tops, or at least in my supply house's lobby)


----------



## 2buckcanuck

I would go for it
we were experimenting with the vario 2 days ago, we had a spot where the fire place was going, so we floated the butt joint about dead center of the 16"o/c wall cavity. We did not Vee it, and there was maybe a 1/16 of a gap. (b/c our work is so tight:whistling2There was that open cell spray foam behind it .
we were shocked the next day, we were pounding on it, and giving it mild hip checks (hockey term) and it would not crack, we were like. I finally gave it a boot with my steel toed boots, and you heard it let go, but just where I booted it, so I was still 
I'm just assuming here, but I think the prefill with this product would be more important than the coating aspect of it. If I were to push the envelope, I would leave a gap in the drywall work, and just fill the bevell tight.(think that's what their specs call for). But when I truly give this product a good run, I will do the system that Tim0282 is running.

Go for it slim, to me it's the best prefill product out there right now, I would prefill twice, with a few days in between applications. actual cure time and moisture in the air would be my bigger concern.

why would you need to know how it performs it wet areas, are you patching a swimming pool too ???????


----------



## rebel20

SlimPickins said:


> Alright Mr. Rebel, two questions for you:
> 
> 1: Can vario be used to fill cracks without the benefit of a solid coat going over it? I have a client that has cracks, and wants to avoid all of the mess of respraying texture. Now, I could caulk them and get a temporary fix, but I would rather see how the vario works. Of course I will "v" everything and use to specs.
> 
> 2. How does vario perform in wet areas? Most hot muds fail miserably when used in wet locations....true with vario as well? You guys done any water tests?
> 
> Thank you sir! (if the vario works on the cracks, and works well......that's a whole new ball game and I will shout it from the mountain tops, or at least in my supply house's lobby)


1. V the crack to approx. 1/4" then take a cake decorating tip and with the plastic fill bag fill the 1/4" groove. Normally we have here in Germany a crack kit which is basically this with a throw away calk tube.

2. If you look under Vario testers needed I posted pics of Vario on siding outside also there are quite a few post with bathroom reno's. should not be a problem. 95% water resistent remember. If you want I will call you and we can discuss it.

Gary


----------



## rebel20

2buckcanuck said:


> I would go for it
> we were experimenting with the vario 2 days ago, we had a spot where the fire place was going, so we floated the butt joint about dead center of the 16"o/c wall cavity. We did not Vee it, and there was maybe a 1/16 of a gap. (b/c our work is so tight:whistling2There was that open cell spray foam behind it .
> we were shocked the next day, we were pounding on it, and giving it mild hip checks (hockey term) and it would not crack, we were like. I finally gave it a boot with my steel toed boots, and you heard it let go, but just where I booted it, so I was still
> I'm just assuming here, but I think the prefill with this product would be more important than the coating aspect of it. If I were to push the envelope, I would leave a gap in the drywall work, and just fill the bevell tight.(think that's what their specs call for). But when I truly give this product a good run, I will do the system that Tim0282 is running.
> 
> Go for it slim, to me it's the best prefill product out there right now, I would prefill twice, with a few days in between applications. actual cure time and moisture in the air would be my bigger concern.
> 
> why would you need to know how it performs it wet areas, are you patching a swimming pool too ???????


2buck thats great to here but you don't have to skim with finish product you can also use the Vario It's an all purpose mud and can be painted. I know you guys are not used to a fast setting that is paintable. That means it's more than just a prefill. 

Gary


----------



## SlimPickins

rebel20 said:


> 1. V the crack to approx. 1/4" then take a cake decorating tip and with the plastic fill bag fill the 1/4" groove. Normally we have here in Germany a crack kit which is basically this with a throw away calk tube.
> 
> 2. If you look under Vario testers needed I posted pics of Vario on siding outside also there are quite a few post with bathroom reno's. should not be a problem. 95% water resistent remember. If you want I will call you and we can discuss it.
> 
> Gary


Thanks for the response Gary, I'm going to use it on Monday, and my hope is that I can fill the crack and free-ball some texture while I'm at it, and when set time comes around do the fine tuning. All I have is the 120 now though, I really should throw down for some more of the 45 (although I just took a full time gig as a carpenter).

I'm also going to do some patching in a shower (hey 2Buck....I HAVE been asked to fix a swimming pool this spring, but I think I'll skip the vario for that one:laughing that is showing obvious signs of water damage and I'd like to make it as bulletproof as possible. I'll let you know how it shakes out.


----------



## JustMe

We got some 120 minute bags in the other day, and I used it on a bunch of ceiling patches at a restaurant reno. Worked great as far as controlling bubbles from already painted areas.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

JustMe said:


> We got some 120 minute bags in the other day, and I used it on a bunch of ceiling patches at a restaurant reno. Worked great as far as controlling bubbles from already painted areas.


Anybody know where I can purchase some Vario mud in Canada?
I'd like to give it a try.
I'm always down for new stuff.


----------



## Mudshark

PrecisionTaping said:


> Anybody know where I can purchase some Vario mud in Canada?
> I'd like to give it a try.
> I'm always down for new stuff.


If you go to their website PT http://www.edp-inc.net/ you will find a distributor (Winroc) in London, Ontario


----------



## Mudshark

They are also looking for sales reps - there you go...


----------



## Tim0282

Just make sure you "v" the butts and leave at least a 1/8 gap in all of the flats or it will fail. Bought a pallet of it. It is really nice prefill mud and first coat on beads.


----------



## spacklinfool

alltex said:


> I,m in a 300 sheeter.I decided ,what the hell.,taped the butts and headers with paper ,then used my 7 inch box and hot pump and boxed the whole thing with vario and no tape on the flats.I bet i saved 5 hrs of tape stringing (i work alone).So if i charge $35 per hr. i saved $175 by skipping the tape on the flats,not to mention the wear and tear on the bazooka and my body.I,v used this system 3 or 4 times now and still no coll backs .Vario mud been very good to me.The only bad thing is it sets in 45 minutes so i had to wash up 3 or 4 times .


we have 120 min for machines!!
one wash


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## embella plaster

Can we get this stuff down under?


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## killerjune

what are the process, just tape the angle, ? two coat with vario or one vario and one all purpose mud ? i need to groove the butt joint ? flat to ? 

thx


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## BOBTHEFIXER

hmmm .. ill check winrock tomorrow , i live 2 minutes away from them !


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## Tim0282

killerjune said:


> what are the process, just tape the angle, ? two coat with vario or one vario and one all purpose mud ? i need to groove the butt joint ? flat to ?
> 
> thx


Two coats of the Vario and you are good to go. No tape.


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## BOBTHEFIXER

Ill give it a try soon!

Im sad though i didnt know about this till now ! 2015 lol.


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## JDPugh

akcajun said:


> joe by the manufactures website..it can be used as firetape...it has the specs on the web site


If they do not have a UL Test without tape, could be a problem for rated walls. If the UL Test includes tape, tape will be required regardless.


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## robinasu

Can I tape with this stuff if I wanted to? Where can I get small batches in Northern California? The website is a little old school. LOL.


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## P.E.I.Taper

BOBTHEFIXER said:


> Ill give it a try soon!
> 
> Im sad though i didnt know about this till now ! 2015 lol.



How did it work out bob?? We have a major plaster repair coming up, that would be worth its weight in gold.


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## robinasu

*Amazon*



robinasu said:


> Can I tape with this stuff if I wanted to? Where can I get small batches in Northern California? The website is a little old school. LOL.


I found it on Amazon.


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## robinasu

*Hardness*

Hello, how does the cured hardness compare to a brown bad Durabond 90? I have a special application where I need max hardness, and I'd also like to embed tape. Can I still embed tape in this product?


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## Tim0282

Very similar.


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## Mikett

http://www.edp-inc.net is dead. I see links to men's perfume and toilet water. When did they go out of business?

I read the post about amazon sale so I bought a pair of bags there to try it out. I didn't realize that I ordered vario 120 till I recieved them tonight. I read so many posts about 45 min I dint think about it Also amazon only sells one kind of vario.

120 min hot mud is useless for me. 45 is a bit slow but usable. I'm going to send this stuff back. Wish i could buy 45.

I have a ceiling repair to do next week. It's a 2 hr long drive so im going to use 20 min easy sand. I'm going to try fibafuse instead.


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## Wimpy65

Hey Mikett, instead of Easy Sand 20, you may want to try Quick Set Lite 5 from National Gypsum. Depends on the size of your repair, it may give you enough time. I usually get at least 10-15 minutes of working time. I've tried the Easy Sand 5, but it goes off much faster. National really ought to call their product Quick Set 15! :yes:
Either way, you will enjoy the Fibafuse for repairs! :thumbsup:


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## Mikett

4 x3 patch with thick bead. Used 1000w halogen and fan to dry quickly. Sanded and painted. I would rather use smartphone than stand with heatgun but have heard of hairdryers mounted to tripods.

What happens if 120 Vario dries long before the chemical set time? The edges probably already do but if you help the middle of the joint dry faster will it have full strength and not crack in the future???


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## Andydrywall

I would love to try it, how can I get some sample or five gallon of the no-tape mud?


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