# Mess when rolling corners



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Anyone else have this problem? when I tape and roll the top angle (square stopping we call it here) I end up with mud oozing out over the roller and dropping on the floor and walls, I cut down my roller (can-am) when I first got it so I can use it in tight spots, maybe thats why they are wider so that doesn't happen?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Anyone else have this problem? when I tape and roll the top angle (square stopping we call it here) I end up with mud oozing out over the roller and dropping on the floor and walls, I cut down my roller (can-am) when I first got it so I can use it in tight spots, maybe thats why they are wider so that doesn't happen?


 
I do a little, but i keep dunking it in a bucket of water to wash it so things dont get to messy.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

the can ams are the ones with 2 wheels right.
the ones with 4 wheels are better.
yep, that means a new tool


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> the can ams are the ones with 2 wheels right.
> the ones with 4 wheels are better.
> yep, that means a new tool


 No, 4 wheels beaver man .


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Keep putting it in a bucket of water and shake the excess mud off , less mud will fall the wetter your roller is or I should say cleaner.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

Mechanical tools messy? I don't believe it :whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> Mechanical tools messy? I don't believe it :whistling2:


Oh your so right ftd, watch how messy this guy is:whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh your so right ftd, watch how messy this guy is:whistling2:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UpwKg8zbQw&feature=related


your not steering me away from the machine tools buck.
BUT i could run circles around this guy, with a wool roller !!


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh your so right ftd, watch how messy this guy is:whistling2:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UpwKg8zbQw&feature=related



good find...."no harm no foul"....gotta love it

I would fire those hangers though


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> your not steering me away from the machine tools buck.
> BUT i could run circles around this guy, with a wool roller !!


don't forget, it's a teaching/training vid, he's not teaching speed, but how to use the tools.
I was trying to show that the tools are not flying the mud all over the place. If you want a speed one I will hunt one down for you. I posted one a long time ago so......


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

i know !! haven't forgot.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> good find...."no harm no foul"....gotta love it
> 
> I would fire those hangers though


yep, click,click,click,click damn rockers:furious:......you would at least think he would of hit them in when he found them with his roller. Don't wreck your blades .......geez

and when he ripped the angle tape off, I was thinking " watch out your going to...........too late


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Sounds like your mixing your mud to loose. What are you using for taping bango or bazooka.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Anyone else have this problem? when I tape and roll the top angle (square stopping we call it here) I end up with mud oozing out over the roller and dropping on the floor and walls, I cut down my roller (can-am) when I first got it so I can use it in tight spots, maybe thats why they are wider so that doesn't happen?


ok, what exactly did you cut down then, the handle,,,,,,,,or something on the head. If on the head, how and hell did you do that
can am link http://www.canamtool.com/pdf/canam_catalogue_020410_01.pdf


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Those tight spots should be rolled whith a knife. You can't roll s.mall pieces of tape.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

raven said:


> Sounds like your mixing your mud to loose. What are you using for taping bango or bazooka.


Banjo, mud thickness doesnt seem to make any difference.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> ok, what exactly did you cut down then, the handle,,,,,,,,or something on the head. If on the head, how and hell did you do that
> can am link http://www.canamtool.com/pdf/canam_catalogue_020410_01.pdf


Over here a lot of our doors and windows have rebated reveals that the sheets fit into so there's no need for architraves, so it's a bit like doing a house that has already been architraved. Some houses have heaps of corners that the roller won't fit between the wall and the door, the 4 rollers are 30mm wide and the frame is a lot wider again, I cut the frame down to 40mm (with a hacksaw), but maybe the frame is wider to catch the excess mud when working horizontal, I don't know because it was my first and only roller and I cut the sucker down before I used it on the horizontal, maybe I just have the banjo opened out to far or its just that rollers are messy like that and I should stop whining:whistling2:.


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## Cratter (Sep 6, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Banjo, mud thickness doesnt seem to make any difference.


Here's an easy fix. You can adjust the amount of mud the banjo puts out. :whistling2:

S**t can get messy. I have been known to just fling the excess mud to the center of the room when "skidding" with the glazer (house is rosin papered).


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

I stopped counting how many F-ups that guy had in that short video.I'm with moore,I'd smoke em with my roller & hand tools.
3 different sets of mechanical tools just to put on tape.:confused1:to only bust out yer hawk & knives to finish every corner.:whistling2:Still not convinced.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> I stopped counting how many F-ups that guy had in that short video.I'm with moore,I'd smoke em with my roller & hand tools.
> 3 different sets of mechanical tools just to put on tape.:confused1:to only bust out yer hawk & knives to finish every corner.:whistling2:Still not convinced.


final, not to sound like a "richard" but I would take the challenge if you ever offered it....I guarantee I can do angles in completion stage from start to finish in 1/3 the time you can by hand...I can pick the angles in a whole room before you can get the legs ran....thats one side too btw

take this into consideration....ill give you a scenario
tube/roller/glazer..in, say, 16000sf house..all 9 lids with 1 cathedral would take 4hrs to tape with you and, say, a 15/hr guy glazing behind the tube(you)..when it comes time to do finish, you can do it in 2hrs...do that with a banjo and hand run your angles...you can't do it in 10 let alone 6 because you have to go back to that angle 2x after you tape them..and unless your just the cats meow, im betting it would take you 5/5/5 in time to get them done


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## jmr (Mar 22, 2010)

Maybe the mouth of your banjo is open to wide allowing for to much mud to come out? Maybe try putting a 3" sliver of tape at the tip of your banjo, in front of the clasp, to close it up...


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Here is the up,next video from the first one posted here,, Not sure but I think flats and butts should be taped first,,well maybe not ,, not sure,, still wondering about all the butts joints as well.. and I think if I had a helper,, to just load my gun and keep mud mixed,, I would blow these two guys out of the water , tape roll glaze and pick all by my self.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

it all depends on the size of the job BD, if it's a basement, we will do the angles 1st, then the flats. Or if we have a 3 story, we might go floor by floor doing that. Why race through 3 story house to do the flats, then go back to cover the same ground doing the angles.
Then if I'm working by myself, I totally change the system.
To me it's the rule , find a system and stick to it, but change the system if you must.
but yeah, think those guys have a strange system, flats taped and coated once,bead on, nothing on butts ???????oh well, to each his own


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

sorry 2buck,, was just joking about flats and butts not being taped out first.. seriously ,, on a home they should be done first.. seen a few guys run angles first on small projects as you stated..I have always found something to do while waiting on flats to dry,, a good system like you say ... run flats and butts,, put up corner bead,, first coat if you have the time.. come back next day run angles. P.S. there is always plenty of screws to coat...


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

jmr said:


> Maybe the mouth of your banjo is open to wide allowing for to much mud to come out? Maybe try putting a 3" sliver of tape at the tip of your banjo, in front of the clasp, to close it up...


It's not that, the mud flow is fully adjustable, I was just wondering if by cutting the width of the roller down that it doesn't catch the excess mud the same.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

16,000 ft. finishing.. me and my help..[me] 1 month !
took me 9 hours today to skim angles on 230 boards [ mostly 54s]
400 ft of bead [ trays] stilts ALL DAY LONG... 
8,000 FT home coming up . ready in June,, 8' up 9' down 25' cathedral .
nasty tray in dining room . hanging - 5 days- finishing 3 weeks ..
[ 7 day weeks]


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

what kind of system do you use for yor angles.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

moore said:


> 16,000 ft. finishing.. me and my help..[me] 1 month !
> took me 9 hours today to skim angles on 230 boards [ mostly 54s]
> 400 ft of bead [ trays] stilts ALL DAY LONG...
> 8,000 FT home coming up . ready in June,, 8' up 9' down 25' cathedral .
> ...


Moore,I,m sure your jobs are sweet when youre done ,but gosh darn man-- thats a long time to finish out 16000sft. [2guys?] I,m 50 and my help is 59 and most of the 11000-13000sft homes we do here takes us 5 days[really 6] cause I go back the last day to remove all the masking from spraying primer and clean up and pole sand walls for painter.I dont read all the post here,do you not use tools at all?Even just getting some basics for your angles will speed you up big time,DONT BE AFRAID!!:thumbsup:


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

raven said:


> what kind of system do you use for yor angles.


who are you asking?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> Moore,I,m sure your jobs are sweet when youre done ,but gosh darn man-- thats a long time to finish out 16000sft. [2guys?] I,m 50 and my help is 59 and most of the 11000-13000sft homes we do here takes us 5 days[really 6] cause I go back the last day to remove all the masking from spraying primer and clean up and pole sand walls for painter.I dont read all the post here,do you not use tools at all?Even just getting some basics for your angles will speed you up big time,DONT BE AFRAID!!:thumbsup:


everything is smooth, no spray/ or tex.. the machines are moving in here now. lately my price has just been a BASE. :furious:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

raven said:


> what kind of system do you use for yor angles.


stagger my angles/ one side/ then other ..


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

raven said:


> what kind of system do you use for yor angles.


I'm not sure who you're asking but - roll and 2.5" anglehead, one swipe with a pole sander then 2.5" head with the anglebox, then 3" head with the anglebox, the reason for the extra coat is to make sure the deep screws or deep dimpled nails are covered because I don't like spot repairing them if I can help it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> I'm not sure who you're asking but - roll and 2.5" anglehead, one swipe with a pole sander then 2.5" head with the anglebox, then 3" head with the anglebox, the reason for the extra coat is to make sure the deep screws or deep dimpled nails are covered because I don't like spot repairing them if I can help it.


Just prefill the nails/screws in the angles before you lay any tape.
prefill + tape + flush/glaze = 3 coats

I find screws are not that bad, but some rockers can get a wee bit heavy handed with their hammer. We do this depending on how fussy the GC is.

the fussy one's we prefill all the nails in the flats, all the butts and gaps, and catch the nails in the angles where there is a paint finish on walls or ceilings,We just prefill the butts on spray ceilings, and don't worry about closets/cupboards. Sometimes we incorporate the 1st coat on the screws while doing this, depending on time and size of job.

The GC's who are not as fussy, we just hit the butts and gaps and get GODzookie flying as soon as possible :yes:

This will give you more time to tend to your Sheep kiwiman,,,,When you got MUTTON to do :jester:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

moore if you get some angle tools and get a good system going you will punch yourself in the nuts for not doing it a long time ago. it sounds like the size jobs you are doing they will pay for themselves in one job. JMO


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Just prefill the nails/screws in the angles before you lay any tape.
> prefill + tape + flush/glaze = 3 coats
> 
> I find screws are not that bad, but some rockers can get a wee bit heavy handed with their hammer. We do this depending on how fussy the GC is.
> ...


Lol Mutton to do, Very clever.

All this prefilling seems like a lot of time and extra work, Im not knocking it, Good idea and it works but i just GODzooka, roll, get the mudrunner with my 3.5 DM and glaze and add extra mud as needed, then rough sand, then get the 3.75 goldblatt on the runner and they are the best, full straight even and flat corners ever, This fills any tapered edge and screws extremly well, In fact first coat seems to take care of the screws, Im using midweight, But at the moment im doing a 1/2 taping 1/2 midweight with a scoop of 90 and a shot of soap( teaspoon) for taping, Its really good :thumbsup:


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

All this pre-filling,hitting corners 3 times,& you guys think machines are quick.:whistling2:Stop pissing down the mud & you wouldn't have to worry about the mud shrinking so much.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

As far as quality is concerned ,,, the best way to finish angles is with a banjo,, That is if you know how to run one properly,, and your not running it for a speed race.. Tools are just that Tools ,, be it hand tools or machines,, they all can be mis-used.. And very mis-understood. the Tools are there for a quality finish above hand work.speed?? it's there the moment you pick up the Tools {banjo and bazooka}. why try and make them run faster?


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

the tapeworm 4" head makes for a nice second coat. had a tapemaster 3.5" with wheels could not fix it from leaving bad edges, then a bought a columbia taping set that came with a 3" head. the blades were adjusted to far out in the middle so i adjusted them bad edges also. bought a tapeworm 4" problem solved.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

well...i asked and didnt say so i guess i will/should

roll/glaze with 2.5" northstar and pump with 3.5" northstar...any bad nails I hit with the nailspotter when i'm running screws...no need to run 3x(for me)


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> well...i asked and didnt say so i guess i will/should
> 
> roll/glaze with 2.5" northstar and pump with 3.5" northstar...any bad nails I hit with the nailspotter when i'm running screws...no need to run 3x(for me)


yep, agree, there's more things you can do with that spotter, than just hitting screws. we do that sometimes too:yes:


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