# taping cathedral corners



## Effervescent (Mar 29, 2010)

I'm having trouble getting the inside corners straight when compounding over the tape of obtuse angles, where the sloping ceiling meets the flat ceilling. I usually hold the knife at an angle so both edges contact both surfaces equally, but getting a straight line is difficult...


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Effervescent said:


> I'm having trouble getting the inside corners straight when compounding over the tape of obtuse angles, where the sloping ceiling meets the flat ceilling. I usually hold the knife at an angle so both edges contact both surfaces equally, but getting a straight line is difficult...


Snap a chalk line through the join and hold a straight edge on it then run your knife against the straight edge, let dry then do the other side.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Are You using regular tape or are you using some no coat ? If regular tape good luck unless the rock is perfect .


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Been using Straight-Flex for the last 6 years or so, but recently tried No-Coat and really like it. So much easier to work with.

Hard to even remember the days when we used regular paper tape on those, not that I'd want to.


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## Effervescent (Mar 29, 2010)

I have used straight-flex as a metal bead substitute where nailing wasn't solid. Thought about using it but I didn't have enough to do this job. Availability is sketchy around here. First idea by kiwi sounds like the old plaster ground idea. The other trick I've done in the past, is to do a radius on that slight angle, like we used to do on plaster. I'm using regular paper tape. I would use the no coat but the price is outrageous...


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## Quality1st (Aug 1, 2008)

*Yo Adrian"*

No-coat is the bomb and anything better is better. Ha Your screen name is Effervescence? you either gotta be a chick or Gay or Bii and thats just fine with me, Just saying WELCOME


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## Effervescent (Mar 29, 2010)

NOT Effervescence!!!!!!!! can't you read? and I'm not any of the above. Can we keep with the topic?


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Effervescent said:


> I would use the no coat but the price is outrageous...


But worth every penny.

One of the last tricks we used with paper tape is the same as Kiwi said. We used an aluminum 4 foot level as the straight edge. That was a lot better than freehanding it.

The biggest problem I had with the Straight Flex is it sinking into the corner a little if it wasn't perfectly prefilled. And no matter how much mud I put under it, I would always end up with a void here and there under it. I could hear it when I ran a fingernail across it. Never really caused a problem, but I didn't think it was right.

But for 43¢ a foot, I'm sticking with the No Coat. Today I saw the ceiling we used it for the first time on, all painted up, and it looks great!


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

AAAH straight flex is the thing of the past, even the mid flex & flex 90 is junk.
I have been using Level line & ultra flex for the last 4 yrs & have had 1 problem & that was back when it was first introduced to me,since then it has saved me thousands.:yes:


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

No Coat.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT (Dec 19, 2008)

Effervescent said:


> I would use the no coat but the price is outrageous...


Include it in your bid on the next one...for now snap the lines as Kiwiman stated...NO COAT ROCKS.


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## Effervescent (Mar 29, 2010)

Tried the strait edge today. Pain holding it up but should do the trick...so, alright you guys... Thanks for all the help --------Now let me get to work...ohhh yeahh


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

What you pay in material costs on No-Coat is easily outweighed by the labor you save and the improved results. I tell customers if they want it perfect to pay me by the lineal foot to use no-coat and they usually do. On shallow angles, even no coat can be tricky, and it may be worth going with a soft radius instead - way more forgiving on the eye as the transition almost disappears.

Remember to check your framing first and use X-Crack before boarding if it's out - it'll save a lot of frustration down the track.

Good luck,
D's


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## luckyrabbit (Nov 2, 2009)

Hi guys, 

this no coat sounds great! who cares about the cost if it saves time, only thing is where do you get it? I live in ontario, canada and haven't seen it at HD or Rona haven't checked lowes.. 

Doe's this stuff come in a bag? box? also.. what is the flex stuff aswell? is it plastic inside angle 45's I use outside plastic 45's by trimtex all the time .. love the plastic easy to use. I won't even touch the paper with metal inside it...too much risk of bubbling no matter how much mud you put be hide it. I live close to the New York state border so WNYBass help me out where could I find the above. 

Thanks LR


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT (Dec 19, 2008)

The No Coat comes in a box has a little dude on the box that looks like 'Stewie' from "Family Guy". You can get it thru All-Wall also. Check your prices. I know I live in the boonies and even though my local hardware store now supplies it they charge a ridiculous amount for it. The Big Stuff (450) should run you around $55.00 and the diet stuff is around $35.00.

While we are on the subject how many of you out there own or have used that no coat roller?


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

luckyrabbit said:


> I live close to the New York state border so WNYBass help me out where could I find the above.
> 
> Thanks LR



The last job we did was the first time we used it. We were surprised to find the Flex 325 (I think, the small of the ultra-flexes anyway) at our local lumber yard. It was $43 for a 100 feet. We are already wondering what to do with all the extra Straight-Flex we have. Probably have a few new boxes and several partials in various models.


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## Effervescent (Mar 29, 2010)

*Luckyrabbit*

Do an online search for NO COAT and their site has a dealer link...that'll ask you where you live and direct you to the nearest supplier...


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## mjp2519 (Apr 27, 2010)

No Coat and Level Line are definitly the way to go, No product that I have come across can give you a better line and finished product.


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## luckyrabbit (Nov 2, 2009)

*tried no-coat finally*

This is the Shot.... unbelievable....inside 45's are now my friend. thanks to everyone on this forum with the input. Been happy to be here since I've browsed on the forum, I've gotten a new sanding method.. (radius 360) and now the NO Coat 325. 

Thanks again guys..

LR


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## Arey85 (Jan 2, 2010)

Effervescent said:


> I have used straight-flex as a metal bead substitute where nailing wasn't solid. Thought about using it but I didn't have enough to do this job. Availability is sketchy around here. First idea by kiwi sounds like the old plaster ground idea. The other trick I've done in the past, is to do a radius on that slight angle, like we used to do on plaster. I'm using regular paper tape. I would use the no coat but the price is outrageous...


Where in CT are you from? You said availability is sketchy which is also true where im from (Windsor) I used to buy the strait flex medium and all my suppliers either jacked up the price $3 a roll or dont carry it anymore. I started using Ultra Flex 325 and everywhere around here is carrying it...not to mention with very competitive prices.


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## eastex1963 (Nov 6, 2008)

Hey Guys,
Used No Coat this past week on a big job. First time user. Just let me say, I'm in love now too. LOL. Much MUCH better results. Easy to use. Looks GREAT.

I'm an old school, hand finisher. I don't use tools. Never have, and too old and set in my ways to try now. Don't like change...blah, blah, blah. 

After being a mostly silent reader here, I've really learned and applied a lot of what you guys talk about. Don't get me wrong, I've always done exceptional work and have a great reputation.....But, this No Coat stuff is the ****! Thanks guys....couldn't have done it/or known about it without ya'll.......Now teach me sumtin' else...haha


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## Effervescent (Mar 29, 2010)

*Teach me somtin'*

Ok, here's one. Way back in '79, a French Canadian gentleman named Raoul Bissonette who was kind enough to let me watch him work, showed me alot of tricks.... one of them being, he always mixed his 'ready mix' with a 3' piece of 1x4 lumber. Another was, before his final coat, he'd add a few squirts of liquid dishwashing detergent to a 5 gallon pail of compound, then mix in. Although, I never tried this, he claimed that it made the trowel glide and slowed down the drying time, allowing one to work more area, without the risk of dry spots.
*Another trick* is when using fiber mesh tape, to alleviate the strands of fiber from unravelling from the roll, take a utility knife and make 'spoke like' cuts on the edge of the roll on both sides...Top that!


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