# Finished Drywall Picture



## joepro0000

Just thought I share a picture of a recent job completed - took picture with my new camera. Nikon D5000:thumbsup:


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## smisner50s

Looks good


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## 2buckcanuck

working off the scissors lift ,I sorta miss those days,or maybe it's just the scissors lift I miss,their fun to play on .
looks good


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## Scottish Drywaller

Just wondering if you guys in the US get paid for the whole wall. What i mean is do you get paid a different rate for the area above the ceiling where it is only fire/smoke taped?


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## joepro0000

Well I charge a lump sum and not by the board. When I do my take off I charge it the same. It is a job to get up there and fire-tape vs bazooka and stilts.


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## rockhound

we pay a different rate for above ceiling(top rock) vs below ceiling(bottom rock)..............example ..a 14ft 1 hr rated wall with 10 ft ceilings......we like to install the top 4ft of rock prior to the bottom...and we fire-tape and caulk it at the same time...top rock $12 bucks a board plus $4 bucks to fire-tape, then $5 bucks a sheet for bottom rock....the money varies of course depending on the complexity of the job...


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## smisner50s

here are a few pic of the last house i rocked.finished level5 .and painted..my dad and his crew has been out there finishing all the trim work kitchen ect..solid surface tops are sweet...but not worth the big price tag..


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## moore

:blink::blink::blink::blink:


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## moore

140 54x12 100 4x12 scaffold in 5 rooms . 1 finisher . 14 days . phase 4 walls. phase 5 ceilings. [ hand ].. walked out today, taken tomorrow off.:drink:


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## smisner50s

What is the place.


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## moore

It's a f/n house . i know , looks like a dentist office. 5 b/r . all those windows
, low angle light, fun.. fun ..


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## smisner50s

moore said:


> It's a f/n house . i know , looks like a dentist office. 5 b/r . all those windows
> , low angle light, fun.. fun ..


I'm sure its nice inside.but I did think it was a doctor office.:thumbup:


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## moore

middle room/ great room.


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## SlimPickins

moore said:


> View attachment 746
> middle room/ great room.


It really bugs me when people skimp on lights:laughing:


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## moore

can lights.. i love em. they shine straight down. [ don't tell the h/o]:whistling2:


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## Axecutioner-B

smisner50s said:


> here are a few pic of the last house i rocked.finished level5 .and painted..my dad and his crew has been out there finishing all the trim work kitchen ect..solid surface tops are sweet...but not worth the big price tag..


Is it just me or do those countertops look like i spilled coffee & it dried up all over them ? :jester:
________
How To Use Silver Surfer Vaporizer


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## 2buckcanuck

while,since everyone is posting pics,here's the job I'm on .Took daughter in to single spot the screws .She's the one that owns the camera, that she won't let me use .
It's around 7,000 sq,working by myself, kid in hospital .started Friday ,should be done Wednesday .
Another weekend stuck working :furious:


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## SlimPickins

moore said:


> can lights.. i love em. they shine straight down. [ don't tell the h/o]:whistling2:


As long as they don't shine straight down a wall


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## Muddauber

A taper wearing BLACK?

You're a braver man than I 2buck.:laughing:


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## silverstilts

2buck Do u run your angles after your second coat or are they not getting done? Perhaps you just wanted to get your heavy coat on for some drying time. Been there done that. Looks good though.


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## DSJOHN

silverstilts said:


> 2buck Do u run your angles after your second coat or are they not getting done? Perhaps you just wanted to get your heavy coat on for some drying time. Been there done that. Looks good though.


Ive switched up that way when working alone,just knowing how long each process takes and how long my day is----- running a coat on the butts and installing bead then running angles by yourself the next day on that size job makes your day easier, I,m sure he wouldnt do it in those steps with a helper. BTW-- 2buck - thanx for the Kaberle trade:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

silverstilts said:


> 2buck Do u run your angles after your second coat or are they not getting done? Perhaps you just wanted to get your heavy coat on for some drying time. Been there done that. Looks good though.


It's the "find a system and stick to it,but change the system if you must"
Kid that works with me is down for the count, he's in hospital,,,,,or we would of layed all the tapes,since it's a small house.7000 sq dw.
When buy myself,and your 48,,,,,7000 sq turns into a half decent size house.So I like to get pre-fill and screws done,lay flats,then try to get all the bead on the 1st day.next day coat things.then run angles 3rd day.
So when your getting older,breaking up the days you run the bazooka is more easy on you,and it is also a drying thing.I like that system when buy myself.......So...I had to change the system:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

DSJOHN said:


> BTW-- 2buck - thanx for the Kaberle trade:yes:


it was planed ,we sent you our longest serving leaf to give you guys blue and white disease, your going to go on a horrible losing streak now :whistling2:


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## screwyardwork

Is that belly joint below the grid line or above it .cant tell from the pictures.


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## joepro0000

rockhound said:


> we pay a different rate for above ceiling(top rock) vs below ceiling(bottom rock)..............example ..a 14ft 1 hr rated wall with 10 ft ceilings......we like to install the top 4ft of rock prior to the bottom...and we fire-tape and caulk it at the same time...top rock $12 bucks a board plus $4 bucks to fire-tape, then $5 bucks a sheet for bottom rock....the money varies of course depending on the complexity of the job...


Do you mean you hang top rock first before framing inspection? What are the benefits of doing the top first vs the bottom rock first the work your way up?


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## Bill from Indy

is the ceiling height high joe? just wondering why you didnt run the board to where butts were above grid....or maybe you didnt know slat wall was going on it?

not knocking...just wondering....if i can save labor somewhere i try to unless it is specified a certain way


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## rockhound

joepro..we meet with the inspector to explain the advantages of top rocking.. we try for both sides of the partition but at least get one side..this allows us to get the difficult side (generally the corridor in hospitals/schools etc) done prior to elect/mech/plumbing/etc..running their material/equipment down the corridor...
in a condo we also top rock the rooms where there is metal framed drywall ceilings..this speeds up all the trades who need the framed ceilings in to complete their work...


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## joepro0000

rockhound said:


> joepro..we meet with the inspector to explain the advantages of top rocking.. we try for both sides of the partition but at least get one side..this allows us to get the difficult side (generally the corridor in hospitals/schools etc) done prior to elect/mech/plumbing/etc..running their material/equipment down the corridor...
> in a condo we also top rock the rooms where there is metal framed drywall ceilings..this speeds up all the trades who need the framed ceilings in to complete their work...


I got you. We do this sometimes too if theres alot of stuff being runned through the wall.:thumbsup:


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## joepro0000

Bill from Indy said:


> is the ceiling height high joe? just wondering why you didnt run the board to where butts were above grid....or maybe you didnt know slat wall was going on it?
> 
> not knocking...just wondering....if i can save labor somewhere i try to unless it is specified a certain way


Hey Bill,

The ceiling grid was supposed to be a 12'. We held the drywall up 5/8" from the ground, so our joint was at 12-5/8". However, we always work with idoits, and the ceiling guy set his wall angle at 12'1". I check it all around, what an idiot. We had the drywall up, but where waiting inspections. He put a small piece of wall angle up and on the new drywall and automatically I saw it was going at 12'1". If I would of know he was a hack job, I would of put a 4 ft ripper first, then stack the 12 on the top.


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## joepro0000

rockhound said:


> joepro..we meet with the inspector to explain the advantages of top rocking.. we try for both sides of the partition but at least get one side..this allows us to get the difficult side (generally the corridor in hospitals/schools etc) done prior to elect/mech/plumbing/etc..running their material/equipment down the corridor...
> in a condo we also top rock the rooms where there is metal framed drywall ceilings..this speeds up all the trades who need the framed ceilings in to complete their work...


 
BTW - Are you still get 5/8" 12's at 8.12? Prices went up, and best I get it know is 8.87 and Proulx. I went to Banner yesterday, and told them I need to order 300 sheets, how much, and he quoted me 9.12.


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## Bill from Indy

joepro0000 said:


> Hey Bill,
> 
> The ceiling grid was supposed to be a 12'. We held the drywall up 5/8" from the ground, so our joint was at 12-5/8". However, we always work with idoits, and the ceiling guy set his wall angle at 12'1". I check it all around, what an idiot. We had the drywall up, but where waiting inspections. He put a small piece of wall angle up and on the new drywall and automatically I saw it was going at 12'1". If I would of know he was a hack job, I would of put a 4 ft ripper first, then stack the 12 on the top.



got to love the ceiling guys...some are dip****s but some actually look out for ya...i get some sometimes where ceilings got to be 10ft and they come in at like 9-11 to help us out...i love the ones where they run the grid in spaces that get eliminator and put up a 3" rip to run wall mold....then leave 2" underneath it so you got a flut along the ceiling (flut is a term i came up with for the tards..flat with a butt becomes a flut)


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## joepro0000

I told them str8 out don't touch my drywall. If they put a single piece of drywall up I will rip it down and don't care if I damage their grid. They got scared and ran away.


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## smisner50s

HERE ARE SOME PIC OF A BUILDING ME AND MY GUYS FRAMED UP ..THERE ARE SIX UNITS IN THIS ONE EACH ARE FOUR BEDROOM...THE LONG HALLWAY GET HIGH IMPACT BOARD..ALL EXTERRIOR WALLS DENNS ARMOR PLUS..EVERY THING ELSE IS 5/8 12FOOTERS AND 54...I ORDERED A SKID OF PROFORM TAPING MUD...AND PROFORM MACHINE GRADE MUD...WE WILL SEE HOW IT WORKS ...I HAVE BEEN USING USG GREEN LID FOREVER ....ALL NOCOAT BEAD AND THERE L TRIM ALL WINDOWS ARE DRYWALL RETURNED.....:thumbsup:


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## moore

You a big boy misner . won't poke fun at you no more. 
like the way you do the shower tubs. I do the same. trim guys love it.
clean work. as always.:thumbsup:


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## raven

proform mud is my preferrence. The blue lite sands easy so I would use 220 grit when sanding .doesn't need much water ,its a good smooth coating mud.


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## 2buckcanuck

waiting for the taping pics now,One the day before you sand, one after.
I think a taping job looks the best, the day before you sand. Everything looks straight and even etc.....
got to get a cellphone with a camera,:furious:
If you could Sir smer


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## ns005

I also have the tubs flange cut around. Pack it full of hut mud and flat tape. A little more time consuming but looks much nicer. :thumbsup:


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## Axecutioner-B

Rip on the bottom?
________
Zoloft Settlement Info


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## smisner50s

the ceilings are odd in heigth and denns does not come in 54....


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## moore

A rip that narrow at the top can throw off all the seams going down.
gotta love those bottom rips. get out the knee pads.


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## smisner50s

No matter where that rip is....come sunday im still eating steak....hahaha just a saying


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## joepro0000

smisner50s said:


> No matter where that rip is....come sunday im still eating steak....hahaha just a saying


 
Nice job hanging, clean cuts. Only got to work on your screws, so they all line up, (the horizontals) Then it will be 100% pro!:thumbup:


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## smisner50s

My shi. is arrow straight....I have been beating hang clean.no clickers.screws in allinment place your joints correctly...I want it to look perfect before mud goes it..there getting it..I learned oldschool from my dad.the hard way....back when you could hit your kids...to teach them a lessons.


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## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> My shi. is arrow straight....I have been beating hang clean.no clickers.screws in allinment place your joints correctly...I want it to look perfect before mud goes it..there getting it..I learned oldschool from my dad.the hard way....back when you could hit your kids...to teach them a lessons.


I think your dad forgot to hit you once:jester:
Back in the old school days, before 54" board, the rip went in the middle when doing 9 foot high. I would of fired the rip up high around the 4 foot mark. A 10" box down the middle then a double 10" the next day would of hid that joint easily. Or lets just say any competent taper could hide it. If I were taping for you, id be "Ill let it slide this time, but next time









I don't mean to take a poke at you, you seem to be one of the smart ones on here, That sky light thing was ingenious .And I'm glad you listened to your father. My son was, you do all the work and ill look after the business end of things (the talking).:furious:
Lets just say he don't work with me, and leave it at that:whistling2:


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## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> I think your dad forgot to hit you once:jester:
> Back in the old school days, before 54" board, the rip went in the middle when doing 9 foot high. I would of fired the rip up high around the 4 foot mark. A 10" box down the middle then a double 10" the next day would of hid that joint easily. Or lets just say any competent taper could hide it. If I were taping for you, id be "Ill let it slide this time, but next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mean to take a poke at you, you seem to be one of the smart ones on here, That sky light thing was ingenious .And I'm glad you listened to your father. My son was, you do all the work and ill look after the business end of things (the talking).:furious:
> Lets just say he don't work with me, and leave it at that:whistling2:


Good fire away I got thick skin....haha besides im allways open to new ideas I want to do the best work I can and in order to do that you have to be open to new ideas


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## moore

OK.. 
before i saw my first 54.. we dumb a$$es put a 48 at top ,rip,48 at bottom.
the whole job was one big butt joint. when 54s came out most tight as$ G/C wouldn't pay the extra. without knowing what it would save them in time @ mud.. I guess that's why my butts come out better than my seams/bead.

I HATE BEAD!!!


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## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> I think your dad forgot to hit you once:jester:
> Back in the old school days, before 54" board, the rip went in the middle when doing 9 foot high. I would of fired the rip up high around the 4 foot mark. A 10" box down the middle then a double 10" the next day would of hid that joint easily. Or lets just say any competent taper could hide it. If I were taping for you, id be "Ill let it slide this time, but next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mean to take a poke at you, you seem to be one of the smart ones on here, That sky light thing was ingenious .And I'm glad you listened to your father. My son was, you do all the work and ill look after the business end of things (the talking).:furious:
> Lets just say he don't work with me, and leave it at that:whistling2:


Plus buck I am also traning some new blood and I wanted them to learn correcty.bevel to bevel...before I introudced them stuff like middle rips bevel to cut..I introudce new stuff to them slowely so hopefully they retain it.hopefully


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## 2buckcanuck

so do you put the rip to the top, or to the bottom, when yo do it.

Any newb tapers, if so...... post pics of that:yes:


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## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> so do you put the rip to the top, or to the bottom, when yo do it.
> 
> Any newb tapers, if so...... post pics of that:yes:


 Honestly i dont like ever putting middle rips...i would rather have a lower joint bevel to bevel to finish rather 4 foot bevel to bevel .bevel to rip joint i dont see the need too .i dont mind bending down....material wise still taping both and probily same amount of mud by the time you take that belly band wide enough to dissapeare...just my outlook maby im wrong ...the least amount of butts on a job the better:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

while, when you turn 48, and your walking down a city street, and you see a reflection of some fat a$$ in a window,and you go " oh sh1t that's me"....you will put that rip at the 4 foot mark, sir smis:yes:

Nice weather finally here, tomorrow the bicycle comes out ,so if I don't post tomorrow...............dead from heart attack


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## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> while, when you turn 48, and your walking down a city street, and you see a reflection of some fat a$$ in a window,and you go " oh sh1t that's me"....you will put that rip at the 4 foot mark, sir smis:yes:
> 
> Nice weather finally here, tomorrow the bicycle comes out ,so if I don't post tomorrow...............dead from heart attack


hey when it done as long as it looks good that all that matters right....70 today in johnstown....docters apt looks like my daughter is getting a BROTHER..IM SUPPER PUMPED:thumbup::thumbup:


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## moore

smisner50s said:


> Honestly i dont like ever putting middle rips...i would rather have a lower joint bevel to bevel to finish rather 4 foot bevel to bevel .bevel to rip joint i dont see the need too .i dont mind bending down....material wise still taping both and probily same amount of mud by the time you take that belly band wide enough to dissapeare...just my outlook maby im wrong ...the least amount of butts on a job the better:thumbup:


amen.. 2buck [old fart] don't want to bend down for that bottom seam,,


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## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> hey when it done as long as it looks good that all that matters right....70 today in johnstown....docters apt looks like my daughter is getting a BROTHER..IM SUPPER PUMPED:thumbup::thumbup:


thats great news smis, and con grats, do you have a name picked out yet ???
If not , we will help.....j/k
you have a potential 3rd generation to pass the family business down to now:thumbsup:


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## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> thats great news smis, and con grats, do you have a name picked out yet ???
> If not , we will help.....j/k
> you have a potential 3rd generation to pass the family business down to now:thumbsup:


 yes his name will be isaac michael misner were all verry happy...my family is why i strive so hard to be the best at anything i do..i want them to be able to live a good life ...and if that means me working non stop i will do it .and i plan to pass that mentality on to my son...


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> amen.. 2buck [old fart] don't want to bend down for that bottom seam,,


nope,,,,In one way smis is right, it will be easier to hide. But something tells me your no spring chicken either ,Moore.......


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## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> nope,,,,In one way smis is right, it will be easier to hide. But something tells me your no spring chicken either ,Moore.......


just kidding. you got 5 years on me. some days i feel 72!
but i just tape some balls to my vagina and move on.  


ENDURE THE PAIN!:yes:


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## betterdrywall

Just sprayed these small units Saturday ,,total was about 8000 sq ft of sheetrock.


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## smisner50s

betterdrywall said:


> Just sprayed these small units Saturday ,,total was about 8000 sq ft of sheetrock.


I cant tell..that's knockdown right


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## betterdrywall

Yes it is a knockdown. used my lexan to KD


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## smisner50s

Looks good


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## betterdrywall

Had to borrow a graco1250 from supplier,, mine is going in the shop Motor started smoking when I started this job friday.. not sure what went wrong with the unit I have. it is a 1250 also.. and Thanks,, I like a lighter pattern. don't care too much for heavy KD. By the time the walls get filled with shelves and cabinet.. there won't be much texture left to see...


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## ProbeGT

wrong topic...


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## smisner50s

smisner50s said:


> HERE ARE SOME PIC OF A BUILDING ME AND MY GUYS FRAMED UP ..THERE ARE SIX UNITS IN THIS ONE EACH ARE FOUR BEDROOM...THE LONG HALLWAY GET HIGH IMPACT BOARD..ALL EXTERRIOR WALLS DENNS ARMOR PLUS..EVERY THING ELSE IS 5/8 12FOOTERS AND 54...I ORDERED A SKID OF PROFORM TAPING MUD...AND PROFORM MACHINE GRADE MUD...WE WILL SEE HOW IT WORKS ...I HAVE BEEN USING USG GREEN LID FOREVER ....ALL NOCOAT BEAD AND THERE L TRIM ALL WINDOWS ARE DRYWALL RETURNED.....:thumbsup:


10000 + linel feet of tape on this week with one helper...this place is half way taped out still lots of bead and l trim to run damn....proform taping mud is working great


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## 2buckcanuck

look at this beauty eh',2nd pic is me probably looking for donuts, then the stairs I'm going to lose weight on, b/c I had to lug the drywall upstairs. And charge more money if you see this type of foam insulation ,it's called free cell, you got to poly it, and it is a pain in the you know what.


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## 2buckcanuck

So far the taper says I'm doing ok with the rock:whistling2:
does anyone else toe their nails/screws in the windows and doors like me, instead of the face of the wood. You don't half to spot the screws that way and it is stronger too:yes:

this place is extremely crooked,but it's nice to be rocking for a change


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## moore

We have that insulation here. Great for those old houses. don't look like they did that great of a job for you there. A little sloppy,, no?
takes a few weeks for the foam to cure. lot of water in that stuff.


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## betterdrywall

Used to nail around the openings like that along time ago when I was working for this one sheetrocker. I actually like it myself.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> So far the taper says I'm doing ok with the rock:whistling2:
> does anyone else toe their nails/screws in the windows and doors like me, instead of the face of the wood. You don't half to spot the screws that way and it is stronger too:yes:
> 
> this place is extremely crooked,but it's nice to be rocking for a change


Go 2Buck!

Can you please explain to me how toe-nailing is stronger? I'm having trouble seeing how fasteners placed at the edge of the drywall are stronger than those securely placed an inch from the edge.

Back in 2000, I thought it was so nice to be rocking for a change that I gave up taping altogether.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> look at this beauty eh',2nd pic is me probably looking for donuts, then the stairs I'm going to lose weight on, b/c I had to lug the drywall upstairs. And charge more money if you see this type of foam insulation ,it's called free cell, you got to poly it, and it is a pain in the you know what.


That sheetrock on the stairs scares me. For you.


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## moore

betterdrywall said:


> Used to nail around the openings like that along time ago when I was working for this one sheetrocker. I actually like it myself.


Look how close they are to the edge. trim will cover. YES!
Hate when the hangers nail or screw an inch or two over from doors and windows.


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## moore

2BUCK you look cold. Is that 30.000 btu all you got? 

tight cuts for a old house. I said it before,,, tapers make better hangers.
looks great. can i start taping tomorrow ?


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Go 2Buck!
> 
> Can you please explain to me how toe-nailing is stronger? I'm having trouble seeing how fasteners placed at the edge of the drywall are stronger than those securely placed an inch from the edge.
> 
> Back in 2000, I thought it was so nice to be rocking for a change that I gave up taping altogether.


It's my assumption and I'm going with it.
Now your going to force me to experiment, toeing with the screws is kind of a pain, but the nails do work real good. They leave a nice dimple. i will test it out on a door way with a pry bar, see which is stronger.It's a tough one to sell to the rockers, But guys who do both go "Cool, no coat screws."

I would love to go back rocking, but I don't think I could keep up. Gone are the days where 2 guys would go into a house to rock. Now they want 3 to 5 man crews. They push the rockers too hard around here IMO. But it's the opposite with the tapers, Most guys are a one man show, me and the kid are one of the few 2 man crews left, which may half to change soon too. The average house is 7,000 sq, good for one guy, but not 2,,,,and when you get 2 houses, their always at the opposite end of town, then drive time and set up become a factor.

decisions, decisions


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> 2BUCK you look cold. Is that 30.000 btu all you got?
> 
> tight cuts for a old house. I said it before,,, tapers make better hangers.
> looks great. can i start taping tomorrow ?


Yes, only heater he's got, no hydro yet, Having to use a generator also. I just turn that heater on to take the chill out of the air. praying for warm weather when I start taping.

Sometimes it is good when the taper rocks. I started out good, But I'm starting to say " [email protected] it, ill fix that when I tape :furious:" It's way out of square.
That drywall lift is slow!!!!!!!!!.......but on the other hand, I would of been sitting at home for 2 weeks,, so come up on Wednesday moore, I'm hoping to be ready for tape then:yes:


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## Final touch drywall

That's a lot of work for 1 guy,more power to ya.:thumbsup:
I started rocking & still hang some small stuff.It sucks,there's more mess & dust on me when I rock then when I finish.
Good job 2buckI hear ya,beats sitting home.


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## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> 2BUCK you look cold. Is that 30.000 btu all you got?
> looks great. can i start taping tomorrow ?


:lol::lol:I was thinking the same thing.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> It's my assumption and I'm going with it.
> Now your going to force me to experiment, toeing with the screws is kind of a pain, but the nails do work real good. They leave a nice dimple. i will test it out on a door way with a pry bar, see which is stronger.It's a tough one to sell to the rockers, But guys who do both go "Cool, no coat screws."
> 
> I would love to go back rocking, but I don't think I could keep up. Gone are the days where 2 guys would go into a house to rock. Now they want 3 to 5 man crews. They push the rockers too hard around here IMO. But it's the opposite with the tapers, Most guys are a one man show, me and the kid are one of the few 2 man crews left, which may half to change soon too. The average house is 7,000 sq, good for one guy, but not 2,,,,and when you get 2 houses, their always at the opposite end of town, then drive time and set up become a factor.
> 
> decisions, decisions


I'm not arguing with you, merely curious what the logic is. I can certainly understand why you would want to skip spotting the screws around windows and doors...but most often trim will cover if they're even close to the edge of the frame. When you toenail right at the edge, you smash/fracture the rock don't you? I've done some angle nailing at edges, and it just doesn't strike me that it would be stronger. 

The Drywall Bible states:

Fasteners at gypsum panel product edges or ends shall
be located not less than 3/8 in. (10 mm) from the edge or end.
Except as specified in Section 4.9, fasteners at edges or ends
in a perpendicular application shall be located not more than
1 in. (25 mm) from the edge or end.

By the way, it looks like you're doing a pretty good job in there mister!


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## betterdrywall

Slim,, when the trim goes up the drywall will be secure. no problems.. And I have yet to drywall the Taj Mahal,, Sometimes I think it should be against the law for trim carpenters to own FULLY Automatic nail guns.


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I'm not arguing with you, merely curious what the logic is. I can certainly understand why you would want to skip spotting the screws around windows and doors...but most often trim will cover if they're even close to the edge of the frame. When you toenail right at the edge, you smash/fracture the rock don't you? I've done some angle nailing at edges, and it just doesn't strike me that it would be stronger.
> 
> The Drywall Bible states:
> 
> Fasteners at gypsum panel product edges or ends shall
> be located not less than 3/8 in. (10 mm) from the edge or end.
> Except as specified in Section 4.9, fasteners at edges or ends
> in a perpendicular application shall be located not more than
> 1 in. (25 mm) from the edge or end.
> 
> By the way, it looks like you're doing a pretty good job in there mister!


Sounds like a argument to me:furious::jester:
The company I work for wants the nails or screws coated at least once around all windows or doors. I don't see coating the screws around them, But the nail dimples yes. sometimes they can sneak past the trim. And guess what our rockers always do.

So when I rock, I will toe, the second way is to screw them.......But I always find myself spotting the screws around the windows and doors when I don't half to.......so if I toe them......get what I mean?????

I hate nails around windows and doors, I won't do that

pry bar comes out tomorrow slim


----------



## SlimPickins

betterdrywall said:


> Slim,, when the trim goes up the drywall will be secure. no problems.. And I have yet to drywall the Taj Mahal,, Sometimes I think it should be against the law for trim carpenters to own FULLY Automatic nail guns.


You're right, the trim will hold the rock down....for a while

I've been thinking a lot about an air driven drywall nailer lately....man that would be sweet.



2buckcanuck said:


> Sounds like a argument to me:furious:
> The company I work for wants the nails or screws coated at least once around all windows or doors. I don't see coating the screws around them, But the nail dimples yes. sometimes they can sneak past the trim. And guess what our rockers always do.
> 
> So when I rock, I will toe, the second way is to screw them.......But I always find myself spotting the screws around the windows and doors when I don't half to.......so if I toe them......get what I mean?????
> 
> I hate nails around windows and doors, I won't do that
> 
> pry bar comes out tomorrow slim


I feel the same way about screws around openings, I'd like to skip coating them too, they really are the biggest pain in the ass. Unlike your rockers, I rarely nail around openings.....why would you when you can get at them with your screw gun so much more quickly? I look forward to hearing about your pry bar exploits:yes: Don't break any windows:laughing:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Final touch drywall said:


> That's a lot of work for 1 guy,more power to ya.:thumbsup:
> I started rocking & still hang some small stuff.It sucks,there's more mess & dust on me when I rock then when I finish.
> Good job 2buckI hear ya,beats sitting home.


well thank you FTD
and I don't know if I said it before, you got some of the cleanest hand work I have ever seen. :thumbsup:

Who am I going to pick on now.
we need more painters on this site


----------



## smisner50s

Here are a few more pic to look at.....the hallway is 145feet all high inpact rock ....one of my guys josh using the new hopper putting on bead and l trim


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Wow,,,you boxed out the low joints, which guy lost that coin toss.:whistling2:
your screws look just like my screws, you must be a good taper then.:jester:

Can you take pics just before you sand, to me, thats when a taping job looks the best IMO. Some guys think it looks best after you sand. not me though

ill put some up on my little night mare tomorrow, My daughter with the camera is here:yes:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> Wow,,,you boxed out the low joints, which guy lost that coin toss.:whistling2:
> your screws look just like my screws, you must be a good taper then.:jester:
> 
> Can you take pics just before you sand, to me, thats when a taping job looks the best IMO. Some guys think it looks best after you sand. not me though
> 
> ill put some up on my little night mare tomorrow, My daughter with the camera is here:yes:


that was all me brother....yeah ill post pre sanding and post sanding pic


----------



## Bill from Indy

2buckcanuck said:


> Wow,,,you boxed out the low joints, which guy lost that coin toss.:whistling2:
> your screws look just like my screws, you must be a good taper then.:jester:
> 
> Can you take pics just before you sand, to me, thats when a taping job looks the best IMO. Some guys think it looks best after you sand. not me though
> 
> ill put some up on my little night mare tomorrow, My daughter with the camera is here:yes:


54" rock is your friend


----------



## SlimPickins

Bill from Indy said:


> 54" rock is your friend


Gee Bill, you don't like coating 12" rips at either 1' off the floor or ceiling, or busting out belly bands?:laughing:


----------



## Bill from Indy

SlimPickins said:


> Gee Bill, you don't like coating 12" rips at either 1' off the floor or ceiling, or busting out belly bands?:laughing:


nope...because it is usually my belly that ends up getting busted out...its just a lot faster with 54" board...labor...material...and less advil...

as much as i hate it, I would rather float double fluts (belly band) than at the knees or 1ft above your head

you did a fine job though sir...not knocking it


----------



## SlimPickins

Bill from Indy said:


> nope...because it is usually my belly that ends up getting busted out...its just a lot faster with 54" board...labor...material...and less advil...
> 
> as much as i hate it, I would rather float double fluts (belly band) than at the knees or 1ft above your head


It's true, he did fine work. I'm right with you on the belly band...it beats rips at top/bottom hands down. I remember the first time I worked with 54".....it was love at first sight!


----------



## joepro0000

you should put masking tape on the windows to avoid cleaning them


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## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> It's true, he did fine work. I'm right with you on the belly band...it beats rips at top/bottom hands down. I remember the first time I worked with 54".....it was love at first sight!


 well fellas..here is my method behind my madness......wall height is 9foot 3inch....so what i did is a row of 54 up top with 4 inches riped off.. no beveling into corners ....than a row of 4 foot than a 12 inch rip witch puts me 1 inch from floor.....i can get to rips out of the lower rock bevel to bevel ....and the 2 foot left over rip with no bevels does all the closets in this building lid and 2 walls .....i allways have a plan before i start a project....and yes there are 54 used in this equazion....:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> well fellas..here is my method behind my madness......wall height is 9foot 3inch....so what i did is a row of 54 up top with 4 inches riped off.. no beveling into corners ....than a row of 4 foot than a 12 inch rip witch puts me 1 inch from floor.....i can get to rips out of the lower rock bevel to bevel ....and the 2 foot left over rip with no bevels does all the closets in this building lid and 2 walls .....i allways have a plan before i start a project....and yes there are 54 used in this equazion....:thumbup::thumbup:


We just like having fun with you smis, at least your brave enough to post pics:thumbup:
I'm like you, if I can avoid the bevel in the angle, ill try,but......
The little nightmare I'm on right now is 9 foot to 9-4 (a reno) So I went two 54's then the rip at the bottom. I just half to fill the bevel now to be safe. So my question would be is,,,how high is the base board going to be on your job, I think you know where I'm going with that question.


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> well fellas..here is my method behind my madness......wall height is 9foot 3inch....so what i did is a row of 54 up top with 4 inches riped off.. no beveling into corners ....than a row of 4 foot than a 12 inch rip witch puts me 1 inch from floor.....i can get to rips out of the lower rock bevel to bevel ....and the 2 foot left over rip with no bevels does all the closets in this building lid and 2 walls .....i allways have a plan before i start a project....and yes there are 54 used in this equazion....:thumbup::thumbup:


Ugh....9' 3", there must have been an architect involved :laughing: That's right up there with 10' 6", or 8' 8"....what are they thinking when they call this stuff out?

I always like when the recess is ripped off, can I assume it's going smooth then? I like how you planned it out, a lot of times guys don't have a real plan, except to take an extra trip to the dump:blink:

I would have probably gone with a 27" at the top, then a 54", then a 30", which would leave the 24" left over....but then I would have had two awkward height seams to run, but less 48" board to deal with. 6 of one, half dozen of another.


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> We just like having fun with you smis, at least your brave enough to post pics:thumbup:
> I'm like you, if I can avoid the bevel in the angle, ill try,but......
> The little nightmare I'm on right now is 9 foot to 9-4 (a reno) So I went two 54's then the rip at the bottom. I just half to fill the bevel now to be safe. So my question would be is,,,how high is the base board going to be on your job, I think you know where I'm going with that question.


 3.5 on the base


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> ....one of my guys josh using the new hopper putting on bead and l trim


What's the odd little hammer he's got in his loop?


----------



## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> What's the odd little hammer he's got in his loop?


Tack hammer mag on one side small head on the outher side..setting in nails..supper light


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> 3.5 on the base


See,,,thats what this site is all about, the different ways we would tackle things.:thumbup:
If we were working together, we would be arguing.......I mean debating which way to go. I would of wanted a filler strip at the bottom.

then the next question is what type of base board are they using. If it's vinyl you still half to be fairly fussy, there can't be no major gaps or it can buckle.Wood is a different story, some GC's want plywood strips down there. then there's that mdf crap.

so what type of base board:whistling2:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> See,,,thats what this site is all about, the different ways we would tackle things.:thumbup:
> If we were working together, we would be arguing.......I mean debating which way to go. I would of wanted a filler strip at the bottom.
> 
> then the next question is what type of base board are they using. If it's vinyl you still half to be fairly fussy, there can't be no major gaps or it can buckle.Wood is a different story, some GC's want plywood strips down there. then there's that mdf crap.
> 
> so what type of base board:whistling2:


Cardboard...ops I mean mdf


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## SlimPickins

I just thought of something...what about that new flatbox handle that pivots...if it can do overhead work, can it also do low work?:confused1:


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## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> I just thought of something...what about that new flatbox handle that pivots...if it can do overhead work, can it also do low work?:confused1:


Would probably work sweet


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## 2buckcanuck

oh well, I don't know what to say...........mdf eh'
If we were working together, I'd be saying "Fine we will do it your way, but your running the boxes"
And right now I would be asking" hows your back feel"


----------



## Goodmanatee

Some pics of a nursing home I'm doing.
We've done 3082 m2 at £1.70m2 in 10 days, 2 man team.
Heavy days i might add. Feeling a little jaded tonight.
Used a Sh*t load of materials, thank god they supply.

2520 metres fibatape
1950 metres papertape
600 metres external angle
312.5 KG of fast set
860 KG of Mud

The top internal is a lttle rough but will be covered by coving.
The painter shook my hand and said it was very neat and dream to paint, it's nice when you get a complment. doesn't happen all the time.
I would really like a CFS system, think i get the metres to warrant one, Trouble is no one stocks in the U.K. So if anyone needs to test in the U.K. i would be more than happy to help (plug,plug,plug,).


----------



## joepro0000

Goodmanatee said:


> Some pics of a nursing home I'm doing.
> We've done 3082 m2 at £1.70m2 in 10 days, 2 man team.
> Heavy days i might add. Feeling a little jaded tonight.
> Used a Sh*t load of materials, thank god they supply.
> 
> 2520 metres fibatape
> 1950 metres papertape
> 600 metres external angle
> 312.5 KG of fast set
> 860 KG of Mud
> 
> The top internal is a lttle rough but will be covered by coving.
> The painter shook my hand and said it was very neat and dream to paint, it's nice when you get a complment. doesn't happen all the time.
> I would really like a CFS system, think i get the metres to warrant one, Trouble is no one stocks in the U.K. So if anyone needs to test in the U.K. i would be more than happy to help (plug,plug,plug,).


Very nice!


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## 2buckcanuck

Goodmanatee said:


> Some pics of a nursing home I'm doing.
> We've done 3082 m2 at £1.70m2 in 10 days, 2 man team.
> Heavy days i might add. Feeling a little jaded tonight.
> Used a Sh*t load of materials, thank god they supply.
> 
> 2520 metres fibatape
> 1950 metres papertape
> 600 metres external angle
> 312.5 KG of fast set
> 860 KG of Mud
> 
> The top internal is a lttle rough but will be covered by coving.
> The painter shook my hand and said it was very neat and dream to paint, it's nice when you get a complment. doesn't happen all the time.
> I would really like a CFS system, think i get the metres to warrant one, Trouble is no one stocks in the U.K. So if anyone needs to test in the U.K. i would be more than happy to help (plug,plug,plug,).


Wow your work looks good, I didn't think you guys knew what you were doing over there:whistling2:

So to translate your english into our english
2520 metres fibatape is about 17 rolls of tape (500ft rolls)
1950 metres papertape is about 13 rolls 
600 metres external angle is about 2000 ln ft or 250 sticks of 8' bead
312.5 KG of fast set is 28 bags if they are like ours which are 11 k or 24.2 pounds
860 KG of Mud or 50 boxes of mud if they look like this http://www.certainteed.com/products/gypsum/joint-finishing-compounds/313796
you did 33,200 sq ft @22 cents a sq ft buy my calculations, do you get extras too

The man needs a CFS system, somebody help him

It looks good Goodmanatee


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Wow your work looks good, I didn't think you guys knew what you were doing over there:whistling2:
> 
> So to translate your english into our english
> 2520 metres fibatape is about 17 rolls of tape (500ft rolls)
> 1950 metres papertape is about 13 rolls
> 600 metres external angle is about 2000 ln ft or 250 sticks of 8' bead
> 312.5 KG of fast set is 28 bags if they are like ours which are 11 k or 24.2 pounds
> 860 KG of Mud or 50 boxes of mud if they look like this http://www.certainteed.com/products/gypsum/joint-finishing-compounds/313796
> you did 33,200 sq ft @22 cents a sq ft buy my calculations, do you get extras too
> 
> The man needs a CFS system, somebody help him
> 
> It looks good Goodmanatee


Sheesh, I did the conversion for meters-->ft., and then I thought 'why the f%&* am I wasting my time on this?' :lol:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Sheesh, I did the conversion for meters-->ft., and then I thought 'why the f%&* am I wasting my time on this?' :lol:


So what did you come up with, I want to know if we should all move there


----------



## chris

*U gotta do both*



smisner50s said:


> Plus buck I am also traning some new blood and I wanted them to learn correcty.bevel to bevel...before I introudced them stuff like middle rips bevel to cut..I introudce new stuff to them slowely so hopefully they retain it.hopefully


 I have found a hanger is not a true journeyman until he tapes for a year:yes:


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## smisner50s

chris said:


> i have found a hanger is not a true journeyman until he tapes for a year:yes:


 what


----------



## chris

*anti nails*



2buckcanuck said:


> Sounds like a argument to me:furious::jester:
> The company I work for wants the nails or screws coated at least once around all windows or doors. I don't see coating the screws around them, But the nail dimples yes. sometimes they can sneak past the trim. And guess what our rockers always do.
> 
> So when I rock, I will toe, the second way is to screw them.......But I always find myself spotting the screws around the windows and doors when I don't half to.......so if I toe them......get what I mean?????
> 
> I hate nails around windows and doors, I won't do that
> 
> pry bar comes out tomorrow slim


 dont allow nails on any of my jobs . Hangers cried at first but now are faster without. Take the time to mount a clasp on screwgun and lose the hammer and nails.You will be doing a better job and saving go backs for your tapers.I HATE NAILS


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> dont allow nails on any of my jobs . Hangers cried at first but now are faster without. Take the time to mount a clasp on screwgun and lose the hammer and nails.You will be doing a better job and saving go backs for your tapers.I HATE NAILS


So your hangers have to screw at the sole plate on wood framing? I'd tell you to go smurf yourself.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> dont allow nails on any of my jobs . Hangers cried at first but now are faster without. Take the time to mount a clasp on screwgun and lose the hammer and nails.You will be doing a better job and saving go backs for your tapers.I HATE NAILS


here you go chris, read away http://www.drywalltalk.com/f6/screws-vs-nails-1711/


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> So what did you come up with, I want to know if we should all move there


I just wanted to see how many feet 3000 sq. meters was, I didn't do the payoff. 33000 in 10 days seems reasonable, but it's not uncommon for one-man-bands here to do 10000 in 4-5 days (ready for texture). However, that's a lot of hot mud they slung at it. 

Are you just trying to convince all of us NOT to move to Canadialand?


----------



## chris

*opinions vary*



SlimPickins said:


> So your hangers have to screw at the sole plate on wood framing? I'd tell you to go smurf yourself.


Thats not nice Most guys around here [that are still busy and working] dont use nails . Some residential guys still do but not many. Just the way I was taught. I am a taper that likes a great finish.:thumbup:


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> Thats not nice Most guys around here [that are still busy and working] dont use nails . Some residential guys still do but not many. Just the way I was taught. I am a taper that likes a great finish.:thumbup:


I know, I'm a bit of a jerk:jester:. 

This really comes down (once again) to absolutes, and my aversion to them. Conscientious workmanship outweighs dogmatic fortitude every time. There seem to be exceptions to every "rule", and I find myself drawn to finding them. No offense intended in the post above.


----------



## moore

chris said:


> dont allow nails on any of my jobs . Hangers cried at first but now are faster without. Take the time to mount a clasp on screwgun and lose the hammer and nails.You will be doing a better job and saving go backs for your tapers.I HATE NAILS


I'm with you chris. I hate nails. egg holes/ blisters,,, but a year, or years later a screw will bubble up, same as a ring shank or cc slick. 
oh ,,Slim's not a jerk ! Just a smart dude who needs to get theout of drywall,, and make the real coin!! strong as a bull ,yes, dumb as a cow :no:


----------



## Goodmanatee

SlimPickins said:


> I just wanted to see how many feet 3000 sq. meters was, I didn't do the payoff. 33000 in 10 days seems reasonable, but it's not uncommon for one-man-bands here to do 10000 in 4-5 days (ready for texture). However, that's a lot of hot mud they slung at it.
> 
> Are you just trying to convince all of us NOT to move to Canadialand?


 
Why don't you come and lodge with me slim, I'll teach you to run the tools fast and clean.
Get you earning some good money!


----------



## Goodmanatee

2buckcanuck said:


> Wow your work looks good, I didn't think you guys knew what you were doing over there:whistling2:
> 
> So to translate your english into our english
> 2520 metres fibatape is about 17 rolls of tape (500ft rolls)
> 1950 metres papertape is about 13 rolls
> 600 metres external angle is about 2000 ln ft or 250 sticks of 8' bead
> 312.5 KG of fast set is 28 bags if they are like ours which are 11 k or 24.2 pounds
> 860 KG of Mud or 50 boxes of mud if they look like this http://www.certainteed.com/products/gypsum/joint-finishing-compounds/313796
> you did 33,200 sq ft @22 cents a sq ft buy my calculations, do you get extras too
> 
> The man needs a CFS system, somebody help him
> 
> It looks good Goodmanatee


 
What do you mean by extras 2buck?


----------



## SlimPickins

....


----------



## Goodmanatee

SlimPickins said:


> Are you hitting on me?:laughing: I'm always willing to learn.........stuff about work that is
> 
> Are you running standard tools or CFS? I've never used CFS, but I used to be pretty good at running everything else. I do a lot of hand work these days, mostly remodel where it's silly to break out tools.


Just yanking your chain slim. Bit of site banter. 
Just using tools no cfs, no one really stocks them here.
Fraid your out of luck, happily married mate.


----------



## gotmud

moore said:


> View attachment 746
> middle room/ great room.


WOW nice! I only hope to be that good and fast someday


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Goodmanatee said:


> What do you mean by extras 2buck?


We get so many pennies or cents a sq ft (m2) then the extras like
corner bead ,,so much a running foot
bullnose x amount a stick
3 extra pennies for painted ceilings
extra penny on height till 12 feet
We get $115 (This can be googled on IUPAT) for a cathedral with peak over 10 ft.(3m) vaulted ceiling over 10 ft, a coffered ceiling, finished garage, and any opening over 8x8 or 64 sq ft and is over 10 foot in height.(like a stairwell for example)
We get $$ for sky lights, more if their over 4 feet deep.
WE get 2 extra pennies for out of town work ( I make more in my home town:yes
I think I got them all
I know guys are going to say it's confusing but.......they use to say a penny for this,a penny for that so,,,,If you did a vault in a 5,000 sq house, and one in a 20,000 sq ft house, you would make $50 bucks on one vault and $200 on the other. the difference in square footage would affect the payout on the vault or extra.So they set things in stone, now it makes doing houses between 5 to 8 thousand sq ft worth while. They always have a few extras in them and they add up

When I get a house with no extras, I ask for a extra because there are no extras:jester: so far it hasn't worked

So do you get extras Goodmanatee, or I bet you guys call them something different


----------



## Goodmanatee

No extras for me on this job. Straight £1.70 m2 all the way. They even take out the doors and windows off the measure.
But it really depends on the company.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Goodmanatee said:


> No extras for me on this job. Straight £1.70 m2 all the way. They even take out the doors and windows off the measure.
> But it really depends on the company.


MAN, you guys are getting jerked around there too much, from some of the stuff I read on J&T , it felt like I went back in time to the early 1980's. From touch ups (snagging) safety stuff, job conditions,pay, the way they treat you guys, I felt bad for you guys.

Use that J&T site to start up a drywall association. They work, trust me, we did it, and that was way before the internet was here. We literally started work stoppages, and would all show up on one jobsite to show a united front.You got to kick them where it hurts, in their wallet, then they will listen.They use to look at us as general labour, now they look at us as skilled tradesmen.

The hardest part is picking a spokesman (I vote amestaper) and getting the ball rolling (getting the word out) Trust me it works. It's that united we stand, divided we fall stuff.

Heres a good theme song you guys can use, and it's even a british band


----------



## capspackle

2buckcanuck said:


> MAN, you guys are getting jerked around there too much, from some of the stuff I read on J&T , it felt like I went back in time to the early 1980's. From touch ups (snagging) safety stuff, job conditions,pay, the way they treat you guys, I felt bad for you guys.
> 
> Use that J&T site to start up a drywall association. They work, trust me, we did it, and that was way before the internet was here. We literally started work stoppages, and would all show up on one jobsite to show a united front.You got to kick them where it hurts, in their wallet, then they will listen.They use to look at us as general labour, now they look at us as skilled tradesmen.
> 
> The hardest part is picking a spokesman (I vote amestaper) and getting the ball rolling (getting the word out) Trust me it works. It's that united we stand, divided we fall stuff.
> 
> Heres a good theme song you guys can use, and it's even a british band http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uiqqxxLx8Y


 
Dam sounds like union talk to me :whistling2:
I thought I was sitting at a meeting for a minute I had to stop and check where I was.:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

capspackle said:


> Dam sounds like union talk to me :whistling2:
> I thought I was sitting at a meeting for a minute I had to stop and check where I was.:thumbsup:


LOL,yes it does sound like union talk:thumbup:
Actually, I was on the outside looking in when all this was going on, I had my own gig then and was not working for any major company. If it did anything, it kept the Union out for 15 or 20 years (I'm bad with dates:blink

The IUPAT finally did, but it took a lot of a$$ kissing on their part to make it happen. In some ways it's the companies that like them better than us now. If it was a perfect world you wouldn't need them, but this world is far from perfect so.......


----------



## 2buckcanuck

since this has become the picture thread
Here's a door way I did, It's one way to make extra coin, the trimmer said it could be hard and MAYBE costly to find a trim to do the" round " on the window. So I suggested the chamfer bead. Plus I thought it would match the 45 degree chases in the the four corners of the room. The Owner had no idea what I was talking about, I gave him a price, he said he trusted me and said go for it.

One word of advice, when doing Reno's, set price higher, the one side of the door was 5" the other 4":furious:. The ledge through the middle was a after thought though, thought it would make it look better. It was fast to do.

Sorry for the picture quality, my daughter took them, I better ask for some of my money back. 

Oh,,,and it's just the applying/base coat on it right now


----------



## Checkers

Here's some photos of my work. This was 3 years ago and I have changed my methods quite a bit now!


----------



## smisner50s

here are some pic of my jobsite ond my guys working away ..these are before sanding


----------



## smisner50s

and some more


----------



## smisner50s

the rest


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## moore

the last of the speck houses . 3 more in this subdivision . after that , who knows.


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> the last of the speck houses . 3 more in this subdivision . after that , who knows.


 sweettt:thumbup:


----------



## mudslingr

Nice job !:yes:


----------



## Checkers

moore said:


> the last of the speck houses . 3 more in this subdivision . after that , who knows.


I think you need to pull your off angles out a little more.


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## moore

Misner . those little scaffolds are great. the bil jaxs have rubber wheels instead of plastic. planks are heavy metal. last 4 ever. $$$ thou.. $200


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> the last of the speck houses . 3 more in this subdivision . after that , who knows.


It almost looks like machine work Moore, nice straight lines:thumbup:


----------



## moore

Checkers said:


> I think you need to pull your off angles out a little more.


NO COAT is not no coat !


----------



## Checkers

moore said:


> NO COAT is not no coat !


LOL
Looks sick.


----------



## smisner50s

here are a few after sanding...than a few today after i sprayed it out.....than bad news my 395 died...repacked the pump still nogood....so broke down and picked up a new mark4..delivery tomorrow at noon...cant wait


----------



## joepro0000

nice job guys! Good finishing!


----------



## Final touch drywall

That halogen is killing that last picture.:whistling2o you back roll at least??How long have you been on that job???Is it all gravy flat work.


----------



## smisner50s

Final touch drywall said:


> That halogen is killing that last picture.:whistling2o you back roll at least??How long have you been on that job???Is it all gravy flat work.


we have been on this job a few months ...but we are the builder ..so we had to frame this place out first..yes i back roll allways..than i 220 sand my primer..this place has 14 bathrooms...180ft hallway..9foot and 12 foot lids.no drop ceilings all hard lids lots of three point corners.14 bedrooms.6 kitchens and 6 livinroomstons and a ton of closets. 45 drywall returned windows and to hudge 3 story staircases ..so no not gravy work ftd...


----------



## moore

smisner50s said:


> we have been on this job a few months ...but we are the builder ..so we had to frame this place out first..yes i back roll allways..than i 220 sand my primer..this place has 14 bathrooms...180ft hallway..9foot and 12 foot lids.no drop ceilings all hard lids lots of three point corners.14 bedrooms.6 kitchens and 6 livinroomstons and a ton of closets. 45 drywall returned windows and to hudge 3 story staircases ..so no not gravy work ftd...


I hate closets.


----------



## Goodmanatee

*polishing turds*

Had 5 bedrooms to do this week. Top floor of the nursing home. Slopes and funny angles in all rooms. And this what what they leave. what a pile of S##t. The pics just show 1 of the rooms but they're all like that. Had to fill the bottom of the angle with fast set then cavre myself a line so i could lay the flex angle on it.


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

What's with the red and blue drywall? 
Do the colors denote different types and thicknesses?
The wall rock should be all the same in a bedroom. Correct?

I have not seen those colors of board in the USA.

I do like the colors, red, white, and blue. The colors of the USA.


----------



## mudslingr

Goodmanatee said:


> Had 5 bedrooms to do this week. Top floor of the nursing home. Slopes and funny angles in all rooms. And this what what they leave. what a pile of S##t. The pics just show 1 of the rooms but they're all like that. Had to fill the bottom of the angle with fast set then cavre myself a line so i could lay the flex angle on it.


:thumbup: Wow, pretty rough ! But it looks like you conquered it. Nicely done !


----------



## Kiwiman

M T Buckets Painting said:


> What's with the red and blue drywall?
> Do the colors denote different types and thicknesses?
> The wall rock should be all the same in a bedroom. Correct?
> 
> I have not seen those colors of board in the USA.
> 
> I do like the colors, red, white, and blue. The colors of the USA.


You guys will be different but over here there's standard white then red=fire rated, blue=bracing, green=water resistant.


----------



## Goodmanatee

Thats about right kiwiman. I guess you have the same colours as us.
I sometimes follow a gang of kiwi boarders.


----------



## cazna

Goodmanatee said:


> Thats about right kiwiman. I guess you have the same colours as us.
> I sometimes follow a gang of kiwi boarders.


I think there is quite a few kiwis in england, If your grandparents came out from there then your back in easy enough.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> I think there is quite a few kiwis in england, If your grandparents came out from there then your back in easy enough.


Goodmanatee would fit right in kiwi land, he said he has Welsh blood in him, and he said over at J&T his wife has curly white hair:whistling2:

BAAAAAAAAAAA'D goodmanatee


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

When you say J&T, do you refer to jointing and taping forum?

I have been lurking there lately. It took me a while to translate the terminology they use. For the longest time, I wondered what the heck scrim was. I see alot of familiar usernames on the forum from across the pond. Some pretty interesting reading over there.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

M T Buckets Painting said:


> When you say J&T, do you refer to jointing and taping forum?
> 
> I have been lurking there lately. It took me a while to translate the terminology they use. For the longest time, I wondered what the heck scrim was. I see alot of familiar usernames on the forum from across the pond. Some pretty interesting reading over there.


Yes, that's what J&T stands for.

I might visit there maybe once every 2 weeks, their site fills up slower, it's not as busy as here.

I get a kick out of what they are trying to say, all their terms and slang are different. Lets admit it, canucks and yanks are cousins, we have the same slang almost, you say glaze, we say flush etc...but we watch the same tv shows, same fast food joints, we talk in Imperial not metric measures, we both stuck the Indians on a reservation (lets not go there).:whistling2:

So when you go to that site, sometimes you half to say, WTF are these guys talking about LOL:jester:

Sorry Goodmanatee,Tony M,vanman,brian s,scottish drywaller, etc....


----------



## Goodmanatee

If yanks and Canucks are cousins doesn't that make us Brits the daddies?


----------



## moore

Goodmanatee said:


> If yanks and Canucks are cousins doesn't that make us Brits the daddies?


THAT'S A GOOD ONE.:lol:ME LORD.


----------



## Brian S

Goodmanatee said:


> Had 5 bedrooms to do this week. Top floor of the nursing home. Slopes and funny angles in all rooms. And this what what they leave. what a pile of S##t. The pics just show 1 of the rooms but they're all like that. Had to fill the bottom of the angle with fast set then cavre myself a line so i could lay the flex angle on it.


You made a nice job of that:thumbup:
Think I would of called the Agent in and made them reboard it, or at least charged them for the priviledge of putting their work right. 
Looks like they got the board out of the skip


----------



## moore

I hate that TV box. Kitchen is to the left. Can't see the TV from the kitchen.
:blink:I've done this same house many times..


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> I hate that TV box. Kitchen is to the left. Can't see the TV from the kitchen.
> :blink:I've done this same house many times..


Sweet work wildman:thumbup:


----------



## lloydvirtualbx

Great Bench Work


----------



## cazna

Nice work moore, Do you hand skim all your ceilings?


----------



## Goodmanatee

Brian S said:


> You made a nice job of that:thumbup:
> Think I would of called the Agent in and made them reboard it, or at least charged them for the priviledge of putting their work right.
> Looks like they got the board out of the skip


Cheers brain. 
I think it helps to tape and bit of rough boarding every once in while. 
Nice web site by the way.


----------



## Goodmanatee

moore said:


> THAT'S A GOOD ONE.:lol:ME LORD.


I was talking in a historical sense not a work sense. You invented the trade so there is a lot more experience that side of the pond. I'm always willing to learn more stuff. And got a lot from these kind of websites (drywall talk and j&t forum).
Just noticed a few negative comments about how we didn't have clue what we were doing over here on some old posts. I thought I should try and fly the flag. Don't get me wrong there is some totally rubbish tapers. But there is very good ones to. 
Sweet finish by the way.
Feel we got off on the wrong foot. Could we be friends.


----------



## moore

Goodmanatee said:


> I was talking in a historical sense not a work sense. You invented the trade so there is a lot more experience that side of the pond. I'm always willing to learn more stuff. And got a lot from these kind of websites (drywall talk and j&t forum).
> Just noticed a few negative comments about how we didn't have clue what we were doing over here on some old posts. I thought I should try and fly the flag. Don't get me wrong there is some totally rubbish tapers. But there is very good ones to.
> Sweet finish by the way.
> Feel we got off on the wrong foot. Could we be friends.


Naw man ,, didn't mean it like that. Thought that post was funny,, 
and true.


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Nice work moore, Do you hand skim all your ceilings?


I hand finish everything cazna. 
This home is a speck/tract house ,, here these homes get stipple ceilings..
saves the g/c a few $$ on the painting.. I put the [hand stipple ] on light as 
possible ,without the board bleeding through.the specks are the only jobs that get a texture ceiling here. most homes i do are slick ceilings. 
I want a tex sprayer so bad I can't stand it. This [email protected] is getting old,,,,,,, and so am I.After i stipple the ceilings ,, I go back the next day,,
and lightly do scrape down with a 14'' broad knife.


----------



## cazna

:thumbup:I do that texture as well, Thin like you, But only once very few years as textures are not in here at all, Its all smooth wall, Textures are only for bad ceilings and patch ups.


----------



## chris

people around here are all on a hand texture everything kick. we do a very smoothe full coverage skim tex.I call ours Sun Valley Smooth Wall.:thumbup: Looks very nice.Just wanted to mention not all tex is for bad ceiling:shifty:


----------



## moore

chris said:


> people around here are all on a hand texture everything kick. we do a very smoothe full coverage skim tex.I call ours Sun Valley Smooth Wall.:thumbup: Looks very nice.Just wanted to mention not all tex is for bad ceiling:shifty:


I hate to stipple a ceiling Chris ... butt if that's what they want , that's what
they get. I keep telling these g/cs not to stipple,,, a flat ceiling can sale a speck... :blink:. save a dollar is what it comes down to,. A h/o either loves a texture ceiling ,,or they HATE it. no in between ...Debbie knows what i mean..


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> I hate that TV box. Kitchen is to the left. Can't see the TV from the kitchen.
> :blink:I've done this same house many times..


Nice work.:thumbsup:You do all that ceiling texture by yourself.I give you lots of credit.:thumbup:I did some texture work in Tennessee yrs ago,it sucked with help.


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> Nice work.:thumbsup:You do all that ceiling texture by yourself.I give you lots of credit.:thumbup:I did some texture work in Tennessee yrs ago,it sucked with help.


IN the summer months ,,, have to start before 6:00 am.. done by noon.
having the ceilings insulated before hand really helps. just like painting....
A dry edge to a wet edge don't look too good.. oh ,, Yes .FTD All by myself ...


----------



## smisner50s

:thumbup:


----------



## chris

*ready to roll*

Waiting for inspection will try to get vid of us taping with banjos


----------



## chris

Cant figure out uploads:furious: when its finally done it says there was error:furious:2 hrs later.Oh well here is some first coat stuff:thumbsup:


----------



## MeatBallDryWall

> Yes .FTD All by myself ...


Man I feel your pain. I  hate texturing a ceiling, especially all by myself. That texture looks really nice though, good job. :thumbsup:
Good looking work guys, keep on rockin' in the free world. :thumbup:


----------



## moore

Nothing gravy about that one Chris :no:.I like that hanging job.


----------



## joepro0000

chris said:


> Waiting for inspection will try to get vid of us taping with banjos


Hi Chris,

Is this a commerical job? If so, why didn't you guys hang the walls standing up to avoid all those butt joints.:thumbsup:


----------



## moore

joepro0000 said:


> Hi Chris,
> 
> Is this a commerical job? If so, why didn't you guys hang the walls standing up to avoid all those butt joints.:thumbsup:


So the baseboard won't look like a snake. [my guess] !:blink:


----------



## moore

Joe,, I'm sure Myron can tell you why RAILROADING is a bad thing to do!


----------



## chris

*less backache*

I prefer to lay board horizontal.It is comm. job but all wood framing It seems to save my back not having to bend over every 4 feet.Ten bed unit assisted living for demensia and alzeimers patients . All 8' except main area.Lots of closets and b.rooms. All hand texture:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

*some 2nd coatin*

:thumbup:


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Nothing gravy about that one Chris :no:.I like that hanging job.


I was talkin about all the 8' rooms.Yes the guys did really good oon the hangin the trusses were horriblelil bit of NO COAT will fix that for good.:thumbup:


----------



## moore

chris said:


> I was talkin about all the 8' rooms.Yes the guys did really good oon the hangin the trusses were horriblelil bit of NO COAT will fix that for good.:thumbup:


Factory trusses???


----------



## smisner50s

some after primer..this is one unit for up to 4 kids ..2 bathrooms .4 closets 2bedrooms .livingroom kitchen....main hallway .litex texture orangepeel finish builders solution topcoat:thumbup:


----------



## smisner50s

hallway windows


----------



## 2buckcanuck

man, thats a lot of masking, how many windows did you half to mask over. I bet it took longer to mask the windows off, than to spray it.

Looks good though, looks like my work:whistling2::jester:


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Factory trusses???


arent they all factory trusses..not much stick building anymore. some crazy angles,framers put in blocking to try to salvage mess:furious:maybe that buttboard would have worked well in this application:whistling2: but the hangers made it work. Really wish I would have got pic of be4 rock ..was prty ruf


----------



## chris

P.S nice lookin work:thumbup:


----------



## Brian S

Goodmanatee said:


> Cheers brain.
> I think it helps to tape and bit of rough boarding every once in while.
> *Nice web site by the way*.


Cheers Mate,:thumbsup: that was done by my son, (and business partner), not all of our work is on there though


----------



## chris

*1 shot*

1 long piece of NOCOAT.Do most of you try to put the long runs in 1 piece or do you cut it down?


----------



## joepro0000

moore said:


> Joe,, I'm sure Myron can tell you why RAILROADING is a bad thing to do!


 
Myron is long gone from these threads and if you know how to finish stand-ups you won't have that problem. That happens when people don't finish the joints all the way to the floor. I do it all the time and the baseboards after looking perfectly straight.:thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

chris said:


> 1 long piece of NOCOAT.Do most of you try to put the long runs in 1 piece or do you cut it down?



I figure why do more than one piece if you don't have to.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/longest-piece-no-coat-1878/


----------



## moore

joepro0000 said:


> Myron is long gone from these threads and if you know how to finish stand-ups you won't have that problem. That happens when people don't finish the joints all the way to the floor. I do it all the time and the baseboards after looking perfectly straight.:thumbsup:


Fair enough.:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

just some pic


----------



## ding

thats one long hallway


----------



## smisner50s

this should be a 360 degree view of one of the bedrooms..pretty nice for student rentail


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Wow,,you put all that time and effort into a student rental 

After the first week of them moving in, there will be pizza stuck on the ceiling and broken beer bottles in the walls. And I'm not joking about that one, I've seen it


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> Wow,,you put all that time and effort into a student rental
> 
> After the first week of them moving in, there will be pizza stuck on the ceiling and broken beer bottles in the walls. And I'm not joking about that one, I've seen it


 dude i know there nasty..but keeps us building..we got a 8 story building to put up starting jan ..student rentail..


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> dude i know there nasty..but keeps us building..we got a 8 story building to put up starting jan ..student rentail..


Really  Whats the weather like there in the winter :whistling2:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> Really  Whats the weather like there in the winter :whistling2:


 cold and snowy


----------



## smisner50s

kitchen shots.bedroom


----------



## chris

*some wet and dry tex*

Sun Valley SmoothWall


----------



## moore

smisner50s said:


> kitchen shots.bedroom


How many empty kegs will fit on top of those cabinets 6? Just kidding.
Some fine work you've done on this building. You SHOULD be proud of all the hard work you've put into it,,,,,, BUT There are two universities near me
,and 2bucks right within a year ,the floors will be black due to dried up beer.
Holes in the walls ,doors fallen off there hinges . The bathrooms are the worst
My point ! This could be the job that just keeps giving. More work down the road.


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> How many empty kegs will fit on top of those cabinets 6? Just kidding.
> Some fine work you've done on this building. You SHOULD be proud of all the hard work you've put into it,,,,,, BUT There are two universities near me
> ,and 2bucks right within a year ,the floors will be black due to dried up beer.
> Holes in the walls ,doors fallen off there hinges . The bathrooms are the worst
> My point ! This could be the job that just keeps giving. More work down the road.


 this is the 5th building we have built..and the smallest...we have one comming up in a few months 8 story.steel studs..boy have i done a tone of docks plank floor steelstud work...and colledge kids dont care one bit .but owell ..


----------



## moore

Good for you smisner . I am truly glad to here you have plenty of work.
Not many out here can say the same. Two years from now we will all have more work than we can handle. If we can just hold on till then.


----------



## fr8train

Smisner, where at in PA are you located?


----------



## 2buckcanuck

fr8train said:


> Smisner, where at in PA are you located?


Yes, let us know,,,, in case some of us are not busy in January :jester:


----------



## gotmud

moore said:


> Good for you smisner . I am truly glad to here you have plenty of work.
> Not many out here can say the same. Two years from now we will all have more work than we can handle. If we can just hold on till then.


Thanks Moore, I hope your right! Nice that someone besides me is trying to think positive. I have thought about giving up on drywall at different times bc of the economy but I just love doin it too damn much lol, does that make me crazy? :icon_confused:


----------



## MeatBallDryWall

Great looking works guys. :thumbsup:


----------



## joepro0000

smisner50s said:


> just some pic


 
Nice job but I can see a hump in the angle. Left side :thumbup:


----------



## SlimPickins

joepro0000 said:


> Nice job but I can see a hump in the angle. Left side :thumbup:


I think it's just the lighting...it looks there's another one down the hall.....right where the light fall-off is.


----------



## moore

Factory trusses . 2 foot on center


----------



## cdwoodcox

looks nice. Smooth ceiling?


----------



## chris

looks darn good Moore:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Factory trusses . 2 foot on center


 Nice work moore ..looks tits and beer:thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> Factory trusses . 2 foot on center


Nicely done ! Paint 'er up ! :thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

My work looks better:whistling2:
Just kidding, I'm talking like your typical taper:jester:

Looks good, looks like you were checking those butts with a straight edge , till you got them built to where you wanted


----------



## Kiwiman

Looks good, is that a toilet next to the bath? that opening isn't wide enough to fit a 2Buck sideways .
Sorry 2Buck, just funning with ya


----------



## moore

Kiwiman said:


> Looks good, is that a toilet next to the bath? that opening isn't wide enough to fit a 2Buck sideways .
> Sorry 2Buck, just funning with ya


I'M sure he'll fit If he walks in sideways.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

hhhhhmmmmm,Kiwiman and moore, how do we pay them back


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> hhhhhmmmmm,Kiwiman and moore, how do we pay them back


----------



## joepro0000

nice work Moore, you only need to make your screws in 1 run and it will look 100% official!


----------



## moore

joepro0000 said:


> nice work Moore, you only need to make your screws in 1 run and it will look 100% official!


Ripples


----------



## chris

*Back to finish*

Had to pull off assisted lvg. for a week,got back and pretty much finished today:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Your 1st pic made me dizzy, till I turned my head side ways.:blink:
So that's sorta like doing a venetian plaster,1st coat, but with mud?
Then you paint over it ?


----------



## SlimPickins

Doesn't it bug your neck to wear a cap backwards while looking at the ceiling?

I do a lot of that texture too, but with smaller holidays and I use the h&t


----------



## chris

*neck problems*

As a matter a fact it helps my sight on lids but I do have the worst neck pain . Have never done plaster but seriously interested in doing. Have always wanted to work a Final product over wall with a base color:yes: Im sure I have skills, just need to be around it a bit.I also used to use strictly HnT for texture and metal but she has been retired for:yes: about 4 yrs now.Havnt used for fillin metal for about 15 yrs.Was hard to put down(especially for tex) but feel am way more productive with Pan and knives


----------



## smisner50s

the small staircase


----------



## moore

Is that a trim tex fast cap on the hand rail? looks great misner. :yes:


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Is that a trim tex fast cap on the hand rail? looks great misner. :yes:


 no but it looks like it in that pic ..huuh funny pic:blink:anyways thanks moore it all gets orangepeel finish


----------



## mudslingr

smisner50s said:


> the small staircase


Wow. They must have some very large furniture going down there !


----------



## smisner50s

mudslingr said:


> Wow. They must have some very large furniture going down there !


 nope just a whole bunch of drunk colledge kids..hahah


----------



## chris

*Level 4*

jimi johns sandwich Level 4 ,,I dont like doing level 4 this job has a little over 100 sheets all up in lift . 6'6" high tile and almost 20' lids. place is only12' wide by 40 or so long.working with elec.,tile,hvac.super and contractor and owner frp guys whole bunch a guys packed in and an impossible deadline....love my job:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

Looks like fun


chris said:


> jimi johns sandwich Level 4 ,,I dont like doing level 4 this job has a little over 100 sheets all up in lift . 6'6" high tile and almost 20' lids. place is only12' wide by 40 or so long.working with elec.,tile,hvac.super and contractor and owner frp guys whole bunch a guys packed in and an impossible deadline....love my job:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

staircase


----------



## chris

looks good..darn you guys are fast


----------



## chris

*Warranty Work*

Job we did last Winter ,had a few screwpops and hairline cracks in metal around doors and windows . Turned out sweet:thumbup:


----------



## moore

Looks great! :thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

chris said:


> Job we did last Winter ,had a few screwpops and hairline cracks in metal around doors and windows . Turned out sweet:thumbup:



Nice work chris ! Very cool looking railing too.:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> staircase


Damn smis, you must be tougher or more energetic than me, I rarely coat out stairwells with the boxes, I do them by hand, too much like work

Or I would send 2buckjr out there with the boxes

looks good, looks like my work (again)


----------



## chris

*remodel*

lil rem. partner and I finished up this morning. Homeowner(lady) scraped popcorn off Kichen/lvg rm, stairway,entry and hall lid. I Ripped off bead and put on bullnose (30 sticks) ,slicked it all up and textured.Gave her a sweet deal :yes:


----------



## chris

*Art Studio*

Little art studio we are doing in Sun Valley . Sweet fn view:thumbup: will post pics when textured.I have hit my head several times on those FN skylights


----------



## evolve991

chris said:


> jimi johns sandwich Level 4 ,,I dont like doing level 4 this job has a little over 100 sheets all up in lift . 6'6" high tile and almost 20' lids. place is only12' wide by 40 or so long.working with elec.,tile,hvac.super and contractor and owner frp guys whole bunch a guys packed in and an impossible deadline....love my job:thumbsup:


Did they at least bring you guys lunch from another store? :whistling2:
Gotta love those Roman Orgy type jobs huh?


----------



## chris

no lunch but he brought donuts every morning right before we played bumper lifts:yes::blink:


----------



## chris

*finished art studio*

Gonna miss that little job


----------



## chris

more


----------



## smisner50s

big staircase


----------



## smisner50s

orangepeel finish


----------



## smisner50s

all nocoat..and litex commerical texture


----------



## chris

very sharp:thumbsup:stairways are mean sometimes,nice detail work


----------



## Checkers

chris said:


> jimi johns sandwich Level 4 ,,I dont like doing level 4 this job has a little over 100 sheets all up in lift . 6'6" high tile and almost 20' lids. place is only12' wide by 40 or so long.working with elec.,tile,hvac.super and contractor and owner frp guys whole bunch a guys packed in and an impossible deadline....love my job:thumbsup:




We just finished one too! F#cker was tough. Damn they look good when they are done though!


----------



## SlimPickins

Checkers said:


> We just finished one too! F#cker was tough. Damn they look good when they are done though!


Looks like crappy food is making a comeback!


----------



## joepro0000

Was that purple rock Hi-Impact Drywall or MR Board?


----------



## smisner50s

joepro0000 said:


> Was that purple rock Hi-Impact Drywall or MR Board?


Hi impact


----------



## joepro0000

smisner50s said:


> Hi impact


wow those are a pain to cut.


----------



## smisner50s

:thumbsup:


----------



## joepro0000

smisner50s said:


> :thumbsup:


Is the ceiling going to get textured? Reason I asked was for the way the butts where finished. Nice job on the walls, only thing I recommend is to stretch your screws final coat to the joint and to the bottem. That way you don't have to sand the top edges of all the screws. Just sand them vertically.


----------



## smisner50s

joepro0000 said:


> Is the ceiling going to get textured? Reason I asked was for the way the butts where finished. Nice job on the walls, only thing I recommend is to stretch your screws final coat to the joint and to the bottem. That way you don't have to sand the top edges of all the screws. Just sand them vertically.


The lid was backblocked on the hang job..but yes spray skimcoat followed by orangepeel


----------



## joepro0000

like this for a sample-:thumbup:


----------



## smisner50s

joepro0000 said:


> like this for a sample-:thumbup:


Ill try that...nice radious wall


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> Ill try that...nice radious wall


I wouldn't, it's just more sanding, and if your nail runs seem Like their too much of a effort to sand, then use a lite weight or topping mud, something soft.

Also, maybe you can explain to slim how you were able to build your butts out with the boxes, and not by hand:whistling2:


----------



## Checkers

Skip trowel to Level 5 for wall*paper*. Still haven't made it back for a look at the finished product.

Before








Rock hung and bonder applied.








Coat 1 of 3 hot mud coats. Can you find the crowned studs? lol








Finish coat with Plus 3.












And ohhh yes, Jimmy Johns...








Guess who had to hang tight around every pipe in this photo to the deck? ME! ME! ME!


----------



## joepro0000

2buckcanuck said:


> I wouldn't, it's just more sanding, and if your nail runs seem Like their too much of a effort to sand, then use a lite weight or topping mud, something soft.
> 
> Also, maybe you can explain to slim how you were able to build your butts out with the boxes, and not by hand:whistling2:


More sanding? 3 more inches to stretch with the pole vs having to put the pole horizontally to get the top edges on the screws run short is more sanding?

Build my butts out with boxes, and not by hand? Confused here We did the butts by hand, its more easier than using boxes horizontal at 8 ft.


----------



## SlimPickins

joepro0000 said:


> Build my butts out with boxes, and not by hand? Confused here We did the butts by hand, its more easier than using boxes horizontal at 8 ft.


Dear 2Buck.....




...:laughing:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I wouldn't, it's just more sanding, and if your nail runs seem Like their too much of a effort to sand, then use a lite weight or topping mud, something soft.
> 
> Also, maybe you can explain to slim how you were able to build your butts out with the boxes, and not by hand:whistling2:


After more reading I see that you were asking smisner to explain how to build butts with boxes, and not JoePro.

So, smisner.....when you do smooth-wall, do you finish butts by hand (last coat), or do you stick with the boxes? Just curious....2Buck has somehow come to the conclusion that I think flatboxes are useless.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

joepro0000 said:


> More sanding? 3 more inches to stretch with the pole vs having to put the pole horizontally to get the top edges on the screws run short is more sanding?
> 
> Build my butts out with boxes, and not by hand? Confused here We did the butts by hand, its more easier than using boxes horizontal at 8 ft.


It was a post directed at smis, and a bad attempt at a joke directed at slim.

But with the way your talkin about doing the nail runs that way. It can create a rail road track look. I have seen people complain of it, And the DWC I work for don't like to see it, nor do I so.......This one is really hard to explain:yes: but, say the painter primes, then sunlight shines down the walls, Peoples eyes get drawn to lines, then they say the walls/ceilings look like a railroad track. Then they start to worry those lines won't hide....

Like I said , it's hard to explain, it draws attention to the walls more, which you don't want.

Also, not that you said to do this but, When I 1st got a spotter, I ran it straight through the flats once. Then when I shined a light down the wall, I was like dear god why did I do that. That spotter run always seemed to appear through the flats.....so it was never again:yes:


----------



## joepro0000

2buckcanuck said:


> It was a post directed at smis, and a bad attempt at a joke directed at slim.
> 
> But with the way your talkin about doing the nail runs that way. It can create a rail road track look. I have seen people complain of it, And the DWC I work for don't like to see it, nor do I so.......This one is really hard to explain:yes: but, say the painter primes, then sunlight shines down the walls, Peoples eyes get drawn to lines, then they say the walls/ceilings look like a railroad track. Then they start to worry those lines won't hide....
> 
> Like I said , it's hard to explain, it draws attention to the walls more, which you don't want.
> 
> Also, not that you said to do this but, When I 1st got a spotter, I ran it straight through the flats once. Then when I shined a light down the wall, I was like dear god why did I do that. That spotter run always seemed to appear through the flats.....so it was never again:yes:


Gotcha! :thumbup:

BTW - When the client complains about rail-roading, thats when you open up your briefcase and sell him LEVEL 5. :thumbsup:


----------



## chris

nailspotters suck:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> It was a post directed at smis, and a bad attempt at a joke directed at slim.
> 
> But with the way your talkin about doing the nail runs that way. It can create a rail road track look. I have seen people complain of it, And the DWC I work for don't like to see it, nor do I so.......This one is really hard to explain:yes: but, say the painter primes, then sunlight shines down the walls, Peoples eyes get drawn to lines, then they say the walls/ceilings look like a railroad track. Then they start to worry those lines won't hide....
> 
> Like I said , it's hard to explain, it draws attention to the walls more, which you don't want.
> 
> Also, not that you said to do this but, When I 1st got a spotter, I ran it straight through the flats once. Then when I shined a light down the wall, I was like dear god why did I do that. That spotter run always seemed to appear through the flats.....so it was never again:yes:


Yeah, I've seen guys run their spotter through the seams:blink:...yipe. The extra sanding that you have to do to kill the screws means you have to sand your seam edge more....fine for a medium spray texture but not-so-gouda for smooth:no:


----------



## moore

No one nails the fields anymore,,, so why do they call them nail spotters ?
Hand finish all field screws ,,,and there will be no railroad track . Put it on wipe it off 3 -4 passes ,,,,done !but Field screws are easy here . we can get by with one screw every other stud ,,,, if glued ,, yeah I know GLUE,,,,I will not have rock hung without glue. 3 to 5 screws per stud in the field makes no sense to me at all. It's overkill...If it's code ,,, yeah I get it . BUT,,, after that inspector leaves ,,,, you can pull out those field screws [If glued] ,,and not have to worry about popped screws a year later . there will be no screws to pop. HENCE glue !let glue set for 2-3 days before removing screws.


----------



## joepro0000

moore said:


> No one nails the fields anymore,,, so why do they call them nail spotters ?
> Hand finish all field screws ,,,and there will be no railroad track . Put it on wipe it off 3 -4 passes ,,,,done !but Field screws are easy here . we can get by with one screw every other stud ,,,, if glued ,, yeah I know GLUE,,,,I will not have rock hung without glue. 3 to 5 screws per stud in the field makes no sense to me at all. It's overkill...If it's code ,,, yeah I get it . BUT,,, after that inspector leaves ,,,, you can pull out those field screws [If glued] ,,and not have to worry about popped screws a year later . there will be no screws to pop. HENCE glue !let glue set for 2-3 days before removing screws.


Question - do you glue drywall on metal studs too?


----------



## smisner50s

some kd:thumbup:


----------



## moore

joepro0000 said:


> Question - do you glue drywall on metal studs too?


I won't do commercial work. ,,but I know metal studs are not to be glued in commercial work.. Not much of a shrinkage problem with metal studs.

OH,,, Your in Florida. I WISH they framed here like they do there. Here all homes are stick built with wood. [crappy wet,green wood]
I've got friends In Jacksonville .They tell me all interior walls are metal ,outside walls are wood ,metal grids on ceilings. ? I like that:yes:


----------



## joepro0000

moore said:


> I won't do commercial work. ,,but I know metal studs are not to be glued in commercial work.. Not much of a shrinkage problem with metal studs.
> 
> OH,,, Your in Florida. I WISH they framed here like they do there. Here all homes are stick built with wood. [crappy wet,green wood]
> I've got friends In Jacksonville .They tell me all interior walls are metal ,outside walls are wood ,metal grids on ceilings. ? I like that:yes:


Outside walls are usually concrete here in south florida, mostly CMU blocks. Wood is only a thing of the past, and we see alot of repairs with rotted wood framing. They even did a hugh commerical projects with all exterior metal framing (16 gauge of course). Metal is the best solution for interior wall systems.:yes:


----------



## smisner50s

we built one last year 6 story all 14 and 16 ga exterrior walls 18 20 ga interrior walls..fortacrete flooring over trade ready steeljoist ...wow fun fun fun


joepro0000 said:


> Outside walls are usually concrete here in south florida, mostly CMU blocks. Wood is only a thing of the past, and we see alot of repairs with rotted wood framing. They even did a hugh commerical projects with all exterior metal framing (16 gauge of course). Metal is the best solution for interior wall systems.:yes:


----------



## joepro0000

smisner50s said:


> we built one last year 6 story all 14 and 16 ga exterrior walls 18 20 ga interrior walls..fortacrete flooring over trade ready steeljoist ...wow fun fun fun


 
Only thing I recommend when dealing with heavy gauge metal - Safety Glasses! The hairs from the screws go flying everywhere, and burn when they contract you. Hate to see you get a hair in your eyes.


----------



## chris

*Medical Facility/JFH*

Job we completed around 2/3 months ago,lotta bullnose.Helped buddy finish up some tile (ceiling) and had to clean a lil overspray oooops


----------



## joepro0000

chris said:


> Job we completed around 2/3 months ago,lotta bullnose.Helped buddy finish up some tile (ceiling) and had to clean a lil overspray oooops


Nice Soffits


----------



## moore

Subbed the finishing out on this one to my dad. [ 65 semi retired :boxing:but still a bull] g/c hung the rock . wasn't TOO bad. :whistling2:
The old man started In this trade at 15,,, that's 50 years In the 70's he had a crew of 10-15 men ,,worked shopping centers/bowling alleys / ski resort here in VA,,,[Winter green] ,,,and many,,many homes over the years.



so be nice.


----------



## sdrdrywall

Nice job I hope at 65 I can still lift my arm!:whistling2:


----------



## moore

Addition on to farm house ,,est 1846 . 100 boards mostly 54's 
Beautiful old home , log cabin originally .Ceiling gets wood.


----------



## chris

sweet:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> View attachment 1471
> 
> 
> View attachment 1472
> 
> 
> View attachment 1473
> View attachment 1471
> Subbed the finishing out on this one to my dad. [ 65 semi retired :boxing:but still a bull] g/c hung the rock . wasn't TOO bad. :whistling2:
> The old man started In this trade at 15,,, that's 50 years In the 70's he had a crew of 10-15 men ,,worked shopping centers/bowling alleys / ski resort here in VA,,,[Winter green] ,,,and many,,many homes over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> so be nice.


Sure !!!!!!! nice son you are, give your 65 year old father the job with the scaffold work and stairs :jester:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> Sure !!!!!!! nice son you are, give your 65 year old father the job with the scaffold work and stairs :jester:


 I think he did real good for an old man,,,,,,(at 57 I don't get to say that often )


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I think he did real good for an old man,,,,,,(at 57 I don't get to say that often )


Good job for the old man, I give four thumbs up for the old man :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Looks like the son could still learn from the father:jester:


----------



## moore

Every job i get has scaffold work ,,and stairwells . ,,,and helped him sand it out i did,,, paid him $50 a day . I paid for the sand paper... even bought him a bucket of chicken ,,,10 piece.:yes:


----------



## Checkers

moore said:


> Every job i get has scaffold work ,,and stairwells . ,,,and helped him sand it out i did,,, paid him $50 a day . I paid for the sand paper... even bought him a bucket of chicken ,,,10 piece.:yes:


Ten times what he paid you when you started, right?


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> Every job i get has scaffold work ,,and stairwells . ,,,and helped him sand it out i did,,, paid him $50 a day . I paid for the sand paper... even bought him a bucket of chicken ,,,10 piece.:yes:


 I'll work for chicken,,,, can't get enough,, in fact I woke up this morning with a breast in my mouth and a thigh in each hand, wanting one more piece. Cool, say he talked ya into sanding it for him,,,,, and you thought he was getting senial????? LOL,,,:thumbup:


----------



## joepro0000

moore said:


> View attachment 1471
> 
> 
> View attachment 1472
> 
> 
> View attachment 1473
> View attachment 1471
> Subbed the finishing out on this one to my dad. [ 65 semi retired :boxing:but still a bull] g/c hung the rock . wasn't TOO bad. :whistling2:
> The old man started In this trade at 15,,, that's 50 years In the 70's he had a crew of 10-15 men ,,worked shopping centers/bowling alleys / ski resort here in VA,,,[Winter green] ,,,and many,,many homes over the years.
> 
> 
> 
> so be nice.


God bless him! Looks like a nice job. I see the GC didn't use much screws.


----------



## moore

joepro0000 said:


> God bless him! Looks like a nice job. I see the GC didn't use much screws.


Yeah I know right. Hope those screws stay put. If not I can blame it on the hanger:yes:.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I'll work for chicken,,,, can't get enough,, in fact I woke up this morning with a breast in my mouth and a thigh in each hand, wanting one more piece.


So captain, was it finger lick-in good like colonel sanders says


----------



## smisner50s

Here is one we just rebuilt burnt inside thanks to a kids cigerate..check out the bellyband 2buck........:thumbup::blink:


----------



## chris

looks nice:thumbsup:. all my tools would be that clean too if nobody else used them:yes: . I love a clean jobsite


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> looks nice:thumbsup:. all my tools would be that clean too if nobody else used them:yes: . I love a clean jobsite


 I dont let my sites get dirty ...drives me crazy...and yes i love to keep my tools clean ..i payed good money for them ...:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

same here messes lead to more messes to more and so on. My partner is a slob(hopefully he dont read this,oh yea he cant read) why is it some guys just cant keep it clean?:blink:


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> same here messes lead to more messes to more and so on. My partner is a slob(hopefully he dont read this,oh yea he cant read) why is it some guys just cant keep it clean?:blink:


 i agree


----------



## chris

water damage. I did NOT hang patch...but I did get to use hawk n trowel today:thumbup:


----------



## mudslingr

smisner50s said:


> Here is one we just rebuilt burnt inside thanks to a kids cigerate..check out the bellyband 2buck........:thumbup::blink:



I just finished an 8'3" basement with 6,000sq board ft. Belly band city ! I begged the builder to buy 54" but at $30/sheet around here he said he'd rather put it in my pocket. The extra $1500 between boarding and taping was okay but I still would have preferred the 54".:yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> Here is one we just rebuilt burnt inside thanks to a kids cigerate..check out the bellyband 2buck........)


My belly's bigger :whistling2:

Chris stole my Thunder, not so much the clean tools, but the clean buckets. 2Bjr has the top of his buckets filthy all the time. He always wipes his knives on the rim of the bucket, and leaves it there to go all dry and crusty:furious:

I see your work still looks like my work:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> My belly's bigger :whistling2:
> 
> Chris stole my Thunder, not so much the clean tools, but the clean buckets. 2Bjr has the top of his buckets filthy all the time. He always wipes his knives on the rim of the bucket, and leaves it there to go all dry and crusty:furious:
> 
> I see your work still looks like my work:thumbsup:


Well than your work must look damn good


----------



## Olympic Drywall

its not going anywhere nailing close to the edge, been in business since 1955 we never had a problem yet the trim goes up and all is tight. Someone said its a problem nailing to close to door edges and windows that get trim. We nail close always no coating .


----------



## smisner50s

Olympic Drywall said:


> its not going anywhere nailing close to the ede, been in business since 1955 we never had a problem yet the trim goes and all is tight.


What


----------



## Olympic Drywall

I need to read my posts before posting them.


----------



## rhardman

chris said:


> water damage. I did NOT hang patch...but I did get to use hawk n trowel today:thumbup:


I was doing a patch similar to your photo except mine was skip trowel. It was in a main lit area and I knew the trowel tracks would be almost impossible to match exactly so I skimmed the entire surface and textured corner to corner. It turned out great and I didn't charge him a cent more, but the home owner got all upset saying I was wasting time....he KNEW it could have been textured without the skim. :blink:

With your straight line for the texture, did it blend in alright?


----------



## chris

I sure hope so..That is what we would call a skip trowel. I sanded the sht out of the edges of patch (before tex) and also wet sponged .The texture was pretty thick ... I was more concerned my tex wasnt as thick. Entryroom with small skylight nearby, natural light or lighting shouldnt be an issue (down lighting) .Will try and get a pic when painted.


----------



## smisner50s

here is some trimtex bead glued on than first coat.


----------



## moore

Looks real nice Smisner. :yes:


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Looks real nice Smisner. :yes:


 thank you sir


----------



## moore

*Another speck house*

I complain about them,,, But lately there paying the bills.


----------



## carpentaper

corner tools moore. they will pay for themselves in one job. the only thing you might not like about flushers is they can leave an edge that is more work to sand but it is still a lot less work than coating by hand. tell your wife to give you back your purse so you can buy some tools:jester: i'm only saying this because you seem to have a lot of work.


----------



## cazna

Those extendable planks are the worst dam things ever, Feels like your going surfing, Nice work more, You sure put a lot of mud on, Huge seams on the no coat etc. Seems a little overkill but thats what hand finishers do, I did.


----------



## chris

Looks Great:thumbup:Those planks are a bit sketchy but I wouldnt be without one,handy


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Those extendable planks are the worst dam things ever, Feels like your going surfing, Nice work more, You sure put a lot of mud on, Huge seams on the no coat etc. Seems a little overkill but thats what hand finishers do, I did.


You should see my stilts
Its ultra flex ,,,the no coat part is a myth.:blink:
these ceilings get stipple. 
If it were slick,,, the overkill would have went a bit further .
The only thing I don't like about that plank is the lock.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> You should see my stilts
> Its ultra flex ,,,the no coat part is a myth.:blink:
> these ceilings get stipple.
> If it were slick,,, the overkill would have went a bit further .
> The only thing I don't like about that plank is the lock.


 I agree, that lock is a nusiance. I also agree that it seems abit overkill on them splayed angles in the ceiling, why did ya do that?


----------



## moore

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I agree, that lock is a nusiance. I also agree that it seems abit overkill on them splayed angles in the ceiling, why did ya do that?


To level out the '' no coat'' 
I knife check with a 14''


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Those extendable planks are the worst dam things ever, Feels like your going surfing, Nice work more, You sure put a lot of mud on, Huge seams on the no coat etc. Seems a little overkill but thats what hand finishers do, I did.


Those extendable planks are the only thing I trust to support my fat arse

And Moore, did you give the rockers heck for putting a butt joint out there in the stair well like that (on the right).

And I agree with the captain, if it's going to be stipple up there, then a bit over kill, if it was paint then fine. Try that mid-flex if you can get it, takes a lot less mud than the no-coat:yes:


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> To level out the '' no coat''
> I knife check with a 14''


Are you filling right into the center of the No Coat ? Which shouldn't need to be done. I only fill that little piece of paper on the edge. First coat with a sideways pass of my 6". Second coat I put on 2 sideways passes to actually make it 6" wide and skim it off. 
Gotta remember that the majority of the No Coat is paint ready. It's just that paper that needs to be hidden.
I'm more concerned with the huge screw spots. Seems like a lot of extra sanding.
Either way moore, it looks good !:thumbsup:


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Those extendable planks are the only thing I trust to support my fat arse
> 
> And Moore, did you give the rockers heck for putting a butt joint out there in the stair well like that (on the right).
> 
> And I agree with the captain, if it's going to be stipple up there, then a bit over kill, if it was paint then fine. Try that mid-flex if you can get it, takes a lot less mud than the no-coat:yes:


they don't carry mid-flex here,, anywhere. I have to order it. yeah the rocker broke the seam on the plates too.... :furious: broke the seam on the can lights ,,,, you don't know ,,, but yeah I'm sure you do,,, Its the little things that make a BIGG difference on the finish . comes down to common sense .


----------



## moore

mudslingr said:


> Are you filling right into the center of the No Coat ? Which shouldn't need to be done. I only fill that little piece of paper on the edge. First coat with a sideways pass of my 6". Second coat I put on 2 sideways passes to actually make it 6" wide and skim it off.
> Gotta remember that the majority of the No Coat is paint ready. It's just that paper that needs to be hidden.
> I'm more concerned with the huge screw spots. Seems like a lot of extra sanding.
> Either way moore, it looks good !:thumbsup:


screw spots are 1 heavy coat.. 3 thin on top.. no lumps .. if you can feel it you can see it. hard to tell from a pic ,,but after the sand out there level., no I don't go above the paper edge... still a skim on no-coat with a 6'' to cover the paper does not level it out.:blink:just mo big guy...


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> screw spots are 1 heavy coat.. 3 thin on top.. no lumps .. if you can feel it you can see it. hard to tell from a pic ,,but after the sand out there level., no I don't go above the paper edge... still a skim on no-coat with a 6'' to cover the paper does not level it out.:blink:just mo big guy...


You try to keep away from the blue line, but there are circumstances where you do half to coat to it (bad framing etc) Remember, were just suppose to make things LOOK level, not be level. No one is going to climb up there with a straight edge and say " hey I see a gap here" it's just taping, hide the joints. Don't forget were trying to make a bunch of dirt stuck between 2 sheets of paper thats attached to wood that warps and twists.

It's like the world we live on, it looks flat, but in school we find out it's round.......your getting too technical for your own good....... and wallet


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> You try to keep away from the blue line, but there are circumstances where you do half to coat to it (bad framing etc) Remember, were just suppose to make things LOOK level, not be level. No one is going to climb up there with a straight edge and say " hey I see a gap here" it's just taping, hide the joints. Don't forget were trying to make a bunch of dirt stuck between 2 sheets of paper thats attached to wood that warps and twists.
> 
> It's like the world we live on, it looks flat, but in school we find out it's round.......your getting too technical for your own good....... and wallet


well pick me apart like a murder of painters why don't ya..
get what your sayin ..thanks.


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> You try to keep away from the blue line, but there are circumstances where you do half to coat to it (bad framing etc) Remember, were just suppose to make things LOOK level, not be level. No one is going to climb up there with a straight edge and say " hey I see a gap here" it's just taping, hide the joints. Don't forget were trying to make a bunch of dirt stuck between 2 sheets of paper thats attached to wood that warps and twists.
> 
> It's like the world we live on, it looks flat, but in school we find out it's round.......your getting too technical for your own good....... and wallet


 
I noticed that, All the over kill hand finishers do, Get this, I use to hand finish with a 14inch trowel on all flats wiping each side so my finished seam was about 20inchs, I was the man, the best there was, In my own narrow mind anyway, Any wonder i was sore and worn out, Then came the 12inch box to finish??? How the hell was this narrow thing gonna work??? But i was desperate so gave it ago i did, Took me a while to realise this was all thats needed, Do your self a favour moore, Hold a 4f straight edge over the walls and ceilings to see how uneven it all is, Its all over the place so anyone.... go ahead....... what the hell differance does wide seams make........ none whatsoever......its totally pointless......but in your own mind your the man for doing it........right?????? Forrest Gump once said stupied is what stupied does.......Hell the Capt might even be right for finshing with a 10 box....Ive never done it and painted it so i dont know...Once i thought anything less than 20inches wasnt good enough either, And im Mr fussy, it took a lot for me to change believe me.


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> I noticed that, All the over kill hand finishers do, Get this, I use to hand finish with a 14inch trowel on all flats wiping each side so my finished seam was about 20inchs, I was the man, the best there was, In my own narrow mind anyway, Any wonder i was sore and worn out, Then came the 12inch box to finish??? How the hell was this narrow thing gonna work??? But i was desperate so gave it ago i did, Took me a while to realise this was all thats needed, Do your self a favour moore, Hold a 4f straight edge over the walls and ceilings to see how uneven it all is, Its all over the place so anyone.... go ahead....... what the hell differance does wide seams make........ none whatsoever......its totally pointless......but in your own mind your the man for doing it........right?????? Forrest Gump once said stupied is what stupied does.......Hell the Capt might even be right for finshing with a 10 box....Ive never done it and painted it so i dont know...Once i thought anything less than 20inches wasnt good enough either, And im Mr fussy, it took a lot for me to change believe me.


Ive been finnishing with a 10" box for years have not had a single complaint, and all of our work is painted not texture.


----------



## Final touch drywall

*over kill on flats*

Not this hand finisher cazna..
Something this hand finisher has been saying from day 1,:yes:They are 6 inch recesses,why are they busted out 24 inches wide:whistling2:.
There has not been 1 instance where I had to bust out no-coat with a 10 inch knife.I agree with the rest,if you put it on right,skimming the edge is all that should be needed..sometimes it needs to be skimmed the opposite direction, but that does not happen often.


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> screw spots are 1 heavy coat.. 3 thin on top.. no lumps ..
> .


4 coats on screws,yikes.Try using thicker mud on your 1st 2 coats,than a final skim is all that should be needed.
Are you running your corners 1 side @ a time in those speck houses too?? fu$% that, double em up & sand away:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> well pick me apart like a murder of painters why don't ya..
> get what your sayin ..thanks.


Well Moore, it seems like you've become a subject for attack. The guys out there who know everything about everything have decided to tell you how drywall works, and are attempting to verbally beat you into submission. I say do what works for you, and if you find ways to save time and money that work with your system, go for it. Don't let a bunch of drywall-masters-of-the-universe piss on your parade.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Well Moore, it seems like you've become a subject for attack. The guys out there who know everything about everything have decided to tell you how drywall works, and are attempting to verbally beat you into submission. I say do what works for you, and if you find ways to save time and money that work with your system, go for it. Don't let a bunch of drywall-masters-of-the-universe piss on your parade.


It's not a attack, everyone is trying to help

I like cazna's post the best, we were all there at one point, our way was best, and everything was coated out huge like. I was lucky where most of my methods were taught to me, and I picked up other tapers methods from being on large jobs etc.....

Moore work looks good and I'm sure it will pass, and we all know he would be a great guy to have a few wobbliley pops with, or even work with. We all know moore is a hard worker from his post he writes, and spends alot of hours on the job. Any bit of information we can give to help him make more money or spend time with his family is a bonus for him.

Even I have picked up things on this site, one we use to do too much was skim out our 12" box work (high sunshine area's), 2bjr still likes to do that, and I argue why, and he goes F you and your DWT. But after seeing some of our jobs painted, which you don't get to see too much, he's doing it less now. there are other things here and there Ive picked up on here and there. Also, if I post any pics up of my work, to me it's open game to criticism if guys want to pick at it, so it's poster beware.

Plus one old taper asked me many years ago, do you always do the best job you possible can do, and I was like "oh yes":yes: then he said your in the wrong business, go get your self a canvass and be a artist. he was right. You can do perfect work, then some clown puts 2 dings in the wall, and that's all the painters/contractor will b1tch about, claim that your stupid or blind, how could you miss that !!!!!!!!!


----------



## mudslingr

SlimPickins said:


> Well Moore, it seems like you've become a subject for attack. The guys out there who know everything about everything have decided to tell you how drywall works, and are attempting to verbally beat you into submission. I say do what works for you, and if you find ways to save time and money that work with your system, go for it. Don't let a bunch of drywall-masters-of-the-universe piss on your parade.


Not one bit of truth in that Slim. Like 2buck said we're just trying to help. None of us want to see another taper look like they've spent too much time or unnecessary effort.
Moore's work looks real good ! Others do the same thing also. 
I'm guessing that Moore does not have too many tapers around to pick up on something different or the ones that he does see are so bad that he won't even try. I can understand that.


----------



## cazna

Heres another point i found out the hard the hard way with wide seams......sanding, You cant actually sand em perfect, If you use a PC then that 10inchs wide, It will always chew, even if you think it hasnt, it has........or by hand same thing, even a pole sander with a foam pad will, Trust me, I have the worst light you can get, Sun setting over the sea shooting light across ceilings and walls at 85degree angle will even make shadows in the board paper itself, So if you punch out a wide seam you have ruined it, A nice tight 12 box with a rough sand between coats is as good as it can be, its flat, even, and there is not so much to sand so you cant get into trouble with it, Same as the screws, Never will a single spotted screw done by hand be flat, You think it is but how can it be?? The board was flat and you have addded to it so its not flat anymore, The best way i have found, is one coat by hand....tight, then the 3inch spotter tight........sand....then the 5.5 box tight, Why?? Becouse there is only two stop/starts per lne of screws, not 8,10,12 and so on, And when i pass my pc over it, it gets sanded back to around 3/3.5 inches wide which leaves 1 inch either side to feather out into the board which is the best stop/start edge you can get. Light wont pick that up so bad.

I just won the House of the year award for my area, Terrable critical lighting, Worst you could imagine, It had to be level 5, It got the Gold award, the Supreme award and the GIB Interiors award, It got the most awards from all the entrys, Im not picking on you moore, Im Mr fussy, this is just a little of my story, take from it what you will.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Ive been finnishing with a 10" box for years have not had a single complaint, and all of our work is painted not texture.


 
Its the high shoulders that puts me off the 10 for finish, Its seems to need the 12, But track it the way 2 buck does and it could be all good?? Dunno, Dont see the need to try.....yet.....If i get a really screwed down price then thats what they might get?? Maybe??


----------



## smisner50s

cazna said:


> Heres another point i found out the hard the hard way with wide seams......sanding, You cant actually sand em perfect, If you use a PC then that 10inchs wide, It will always chew, even if you think it hasnt, it has........or by hand same thing, even a pole sander with a foam pad will, Trust me, I have the worst light you can get, Sun setting over the sea shooting light across ceilings and walls at 85degree angle will even make shadows in the board paper itself, So if you punch out a wide seam you have ruined it, A nice tight 12 box with a rough sand between coats is as good as it can be, its flat, even, and there is not so much to sand so you cant get into trouble with it, Same as the screws, Never will a single spotted screw done by hand be flat, You think it is but how can it be?? The board was flat and you have addded to it so its not flat anymore, The best way i have found, is one coat by hand....tight, then the 3inch spotter tight........sand....then the 5.5 box tight, Why?? Becouse there is only two stop/starts per lne of screws, not 8,10,12 and so on, And when i pass my pc over it, it gets sanded back to around 3/3.5 inches wide which leaves 1 inch either side to feather out into the board which is the best stop/start edge you can get. Light wont pick that up so bad.
> 
> I just won the House of the year award for my area, Terrable critical lighting, Worst you could imagine, It had to be level 5, It got the Gold award, the Supreme award and the GIB Interiors award, It got the most awards from all the entrys, Im not picking on you moore, Im Mr fussy, this is just a little of my story, take from it what you will.


 hey canza..try single spot by hand than 5.5..than 3 in spotter
hard to explane why .just think about the way its being built and sanded and it will make sence..i go single spot tight 3in spotter than 2in spotter


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> It's not a attack, everyone is trying to help


I think Slim's problem might be that the critiquing was unsolicited by Moore.

But having said that, I give serious consideration to what's said, even if it's not directed at me. Anything that moves me to 'elegant simplicity' - getting desired/required results with minimum input ('desired/required results' being how it looks After paint) - is of definite interest.



2buckcanuck said:


> Plus one old taper asked me many years ago, do you always do the best job you possible can do, and I was like "oh yes":yes: then he said your in the wrong business, go get your self a canvass and be a artist. he was right. You can do perfect work, then some clown puts 2 dings in the wall, and that's all the painters/contractor will b1tch about, claim that your stupid or blind, how could you miss that !!!!!!!!!


I always try for the 'best job'. At least I have so far. But ask me that again in a few months.

'Best job' can be how you're defining the term, and that can change from job to job, at least for me. Usually it's about the quality, but sometimes it's having a job as ready as possible for paint tomorrow when the board just went up today; &/or sometimes it's bringing the job in as much as possible within the allowed taping hours, when those hours are light; &/or ......


----------



## moore

I learned alot last night:yes:
Don't stay up till 1 in the morning then stipple ceilings the next day.
On 6 hours sleep.:yawn:


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> I learned alot last night:yes:
> Don't stay up till 1 in the morning then stipple ceilings the next day.
> On 6 hours sleep.:yawn:


 not sure what the objective is...respectivly


----------



## moore

After a light stipple,,no one will ever know.


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> 4 coats on screws,yikes.Try using thicker mud on your 1st 2 coats,than a final skim is all that should be needed.
> Are you running your corners 1 side @ a time in those speck houses too?? fu$% that, double em up & sand away:yes:


There are no screws in the field on the walls on my jobs.
double angles take the same amount of time as stagger /one side at a time.
I LOVE SANDING,,,,But it's hard to sand a groove out of an angle with a pad sander.


I'm always right,,, Don't you know that by now FTD. :lol::lol:


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> Its the high shoulders that puts me off the 10 for finish, Its seems to need the 12, But track it the way 2 buck does and it could be all good?? Dunno, Dont see the need to try.....yet.....If i get a really screwed down price then thats what they might get?? Maybe??


I was not trying to be critical of moore or anyone else by saying that we finnish with a 10" box . Just saying what works for us.


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> I learned alot last night:yes:
> Don't stay up till 1 in the morning then stipple ceilings the next day.
> On 6 hours sleep.:yawn:


I'm pretty sure I know the answer but are these pics backing up 2buck's comment:yes: or are you considering filling that ?:no:


----------



## moore

mudslingr said:


> I'm pretty sure I know the answer but are these pics backing up 2buck's comment:yes: or are you considering filling that ?:no:


LOL there's no filling that.
If they want level,level,, hire a plaster.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$


----------



## moore

They are 6 inch recesses,why are they busted out 24 inches wide

crap rock/crap framing/crap hanging/mesh tape...


----------



## SlimPickins

JustMe said:


> *I think Slim's problem might be that the critiquing was unsolicited by Moore.
> *
> But having said that, I give serious consideration to what's said, even if it's not directed at me. Anything that moves me to 'elegant simplicity' - getting desired/required results with minimum input ('desired/required results' being how it looks After paint) - is of definite interest.
> 
> 
> 
> I always try for the 'best job'. At least I have so far. But ask me that again in a few months.
> 
> 'Best job' can be how you're defining the term, and that can change from job to job, at least for me. Usually it's about the quality, but sometimes it's having a job as ready as possible for paint tomorrow when the board just went up today; &/or sometimes it's bringing the job in as much as possible within the allowed taping hours, when those hours are light; &/or ......


You're right. Sometimes folks offer helpful suggestions, and sometimes they're just a$$holes about it. Maybe that's just their personality, and it's not really my problem either way. I wondered if I should say anything at all, but in the end I like moore and I know he works his ass off to make a living, and he's trying to do things the right way. When one offers a suggestion for improvement it's nice to have an air of humility...as in "this is what works for me" as opposed to an air of superiority as in "I used to be a chump like you then but then I got smarterer". 

*We don't all do things the same way. *Once a guy starts trying to take all the shortcuts he can, he has a hard time bringing his quality up when needed. Sure, overkill can be avoided under the right circumstances, and I can think of lots of ways to skip steps on a heavy stipple ceiling.....but the issue that bothers me is why people feel so justified in correcting other people.

I am not/was not insinuating that all of the points weren't valid, and that the finishers making the comments aren't top notch drywallers...but the tone of all of it pissed me off and struck me as a drywall posse trying to set things right....some kind of internet mob mentality that you see every once in a while in discussion groups.

It's nice that people want to be helpful, and this place is a great resource for it....just remember that there are still human beings on the other end of it all. 

Anyone can talk a good game on the internet, but until you see the work in person, or you try the method for yourself and see that it works (or DOESN'T) it's all just...........Drywall................TALK.

By the way Cazna....congrats on the awards, that sounds like some bad ass work you're producing (no sarcasm intended...just sincerity)


----------



## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> You're right. Sometimes folks offer helpful suggestions, and sometimes they're just a$$holes about it. Maybe that's just their personality, and it's not really my problem either way. I wondered if I should say anything at all, but in the end I like moore and I know he works his ass off to make a living, and he's trying to do things the right way. When one offers a suggestion for improvement it's nice to have an air of humility...as in "this is what works for me" as opposed to an air of superiority as in "I used to be a chump like you then but then I got smarterer".
> 
> *We don't all do things the same way. *Once a guy starts trying to take all the shortcuts he can, he has a hard time bringing his quality up when needed. Sure, overkill can be avoided under the right circumstances, and I can think of lots of ways to skip steps on a heavy stipple ceiling.....but the issue that bothers me is why people feel so justified in correcting other people.
> 
> I am not/was not insinuating that all of the points weren't valid, and that the finishers making the comments aren't top notch drywallers...but the tone of all of it pissed me off and struck me as a drywall posse trying to set things right....some kind of internet mob mentality that you see every once in a while in discussion groups.
> 
> It's nice that people want to be helpful, and this place is a great resource for it....just remember that there are still human beings on the other end of it all.
> 
> Anyone can talk a good game on the internet, but until you see the work in person, or you try the method for yourself and see that it works (or DOESN'T) it's all just...........Drywall................TALK.
> 
> By the way Cazna....congrats on the awards, that sounds like some bad ass work you're producing (no sarcasm intended...just sincerity)


Yeah right slim you are a rude a $$ mother f2$194......haha just kidding you are ok in my book...


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> You're right. Sometimes folks offer helpful suggestions, and sometimes they're just a$$holes about it. Maybe that's just their personality, and it's not really my problem either way. I wondered if I should say anything at all, but in the end I like moore and I know he works his ass off to make a living, and he's trying to do things the right way. When one offers a suggestion for improvement it's nice to have an air of humility...as in "this is what works for me" as opposed to an air of superiority as in "I used to be a chump like you then but then I got smarterer".
> 
> *We don't all do things the same way. *Once a guy starts trying to take all the shortcuts he can, he has a hard time bringing his quality up when needed. Sure, overkill can be avoided under the right circumstances, and I can think of lots of ways to skip steps on a heavy stipple ceiling.....but the issue that bothers me is why people feel so justified in correcting other people.
> 
> I am not/was not insinuating that all of the points weren't valid, and that the finishers making the comments aren't top notch drywallers...but the tone of all of it pissed me off and struck me as a drywall posse trying to set things right....some kind of internet mob mentality that you see every once in a while in discussion groups.
> 
> It's nice that people want to be helpful, and this place is a great resource for it....just remember that there are still human beings on the other end of it all.
> 
> Anyone can talk a good game on the internet, but until you see the work in person, or you try the method for yourself and see that it works (or DOESN'T) it's all just...........Drywall................TALK.
> 
> By the way Cazna....congrats on the awards, that sounds like some bad ass work you're producing (no sarcasm intended...just sincerity)


I changed my mind, I say we only help catzcar http://www.drywalltalk.com/f8/emergency-help-needed-stippling-ceiling-1964/

I get what your saying slim, but it was the top 20 or 30 posters of this site commenting to moore (the homies :thumbup If the shoe were on the other foot,say if someone with 10 post started to talk "[email protected] talk" to more, we would of been all over them like a kiwi on a sheep.

It's bred into us tapers to be arrogant , everyone thinks they can do our job, or they like to pick things apart. To quote Rodney Dangerfield, we get no respect. So we always are on the defensive.

I'm surprised this site even works, I find in the real world, most tapers don't associate with each other, they give a dirty look at you when they 1st see you . You know their thinking "your taking my work:furious:"..... but I'm a yakky bugger at work, I always end up talking to other tapers :yes:

Just saying, most guys come on here arrogant at 1st (I was one of them) then they start to settle down. Just saying moore and the guys who posted are regulars, like you slim:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> I just won the House of the year award for my area, Terrable critical lighting, Worst you could imagine, It had to be level 5, It got the Gold award, the Supreme award and the GIB Interiors award, It got the most awards from all the entrys, Im not picking on you moore, Im Mr fussy, this is just a little of my story, take from it what you will.


Way to go cazna









and in it's own funny little way, DWT should share in that award, maybe one or two percent:whistling2:

So what kind of award did kiwiman win


----------



## JustMe

....


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I changed my mind, I say we only help catzcar http://www.drywalltalk.com/f8/emergency-help-needed-stippling-ceiling-1964/
> 
> I get what your saying slim, but it was the top 20 or 30 posters of this site commenting to moore (the homies ) If the shoe were on the other foot,say if someone with 10 post started to talk "[email protected] talk" to more, we would of been all over them like a kiwi on a sheep.
> 
> It's bred into us tapers to be arrogant , everyone thinks they can do our job, or they like to pick things apart. To quote Rodney Dangerfield, we get no respect. So we always are on the defensive.
> 
> I'm surprised this site even works, I find in the real world, most tapers don't associate with each other, they give a dirty look at you when they 1st see you . You know their thinking "your taking my work..... but I'm a yakky bugger at work, I always end up talking to other tapers
> 
> Just saying, most guys come on here arrogant at 1st (I was one of them) then they start to settle down. Just saying moore and the guys who posted are regulars, like you slim:thumbsup:


I know, I know....sometimes I just need to keep my mouth shut. Or my fingers shut:blink:

I can be pretty full of myself...although the past few years I have these flashes of insight that I'm not everything I think I am. My mantra is "I'm not as good as I think I am."....it keeps me at least somewhat honest with myself.

ANYWAY, sorry to have turned this into drama-rama, I'm having my period or something.:whistling2: Carry on with more manly typings about sheetrock and power/automated tools and...........sheep:jester:


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Way to go cazna
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and in it's own funny little way, DWT should share in that award, maybe one or two percent:whistling2:
> 
> So what kind of award did kiwiman win


 I'll let you know on Saturday, our awards on this side of the mound are on Friday.


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> Way to go cazna
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and in it's own funny little way, DWT should share in that award, maybe one or two percent:whistling2:
> 
> So what kind of award did kiwiman win


Well i guess thats a little true...So heres everyones Award.


----------



## cazna

And every Award deserves a Reward.........dosnt it???......So heres everyones reward....Enjoy everyone :yes:


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> It's not a attack, everyone is trying to help
> 
> I like cazna's post the best, we were all there at one point, our way was best, and everything was coated out huge like. I was lucky where most of my methods were taught to me, and I picked up other tapers methods from being on large jobs etc.....
> 
> Moore work looks good and I'm sure it will pass, and we all know he would be a great guy to have a few wobbliley pops with, or even work with. We all know moore is a hard worker from his post he writes, and spends alot of hours on the job. Any bit of information we can give to help him make more money or spend time with his family is a bonus for him.
> 
> Even I have picked up things on this site, one we use to do too much was skim out our 12" box work (high sunshine area's), 2bjr still likes to do that, and I argue why, and he goes F you and your DWT. But after seeing some of our jobs painted, which you don't get to see too much, he's doing it less now. there are other things here and there Ive picked up on here and there. Also, if I post any pics up of my work, to me it's open game to criticism if guys want to pick at it, so it's poster beware.
> 
> Plus one old taper asked me many years ago, do you always do the best job you possible can do, and I was like "oh yes":yes: then he said your in the wrong business, go get your self a canvass and be a artist. he was right. You can do perfect work, then some clown puts 2 dings in the wall, and that's all the painters/contractor will b1tch about, claim that your stupid or blind, how could you miss that !!!!!!!!!


Boy ,,I really clogged this one up.
Maybe I shouldn't post pix anymore.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I know, I know....sometimes I just need to keep my mouth shut. Or my fingers shut:blink:
> 
> I can be pretty full of myself...although the past few years I have these flashes of insight that I'm not everything I think I am. My mantra is "I'm not as good as I think I am."....it keeps me at least somewhat honest with myself.
> 
> ANYWAY, sorry to have turned this into drama-rama, I'm having my period or something.:whistling2: Carry on with more manly typings about sheetrock and power/automated tools and...........sheep:jester:


So slimpickin's,,,,,,,, do you got any pictures of your work you can post:whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> So slimpickin's,,,,,,,, do you got any pictures of your work you can post:whistling2:


What, are you nuts? I'd cry if you guys told me how sh!tty my work is, and since I'm so stuck in my ways I wouldn't be able to do anything about it either:whistling2: 

Besides, I'm always to busy working to stand around taking pictures......either that or to busy trying to get the hell off site and on to the fun stuff in my life like invoicing and looking at other jobs :laughing:


----------



## cazna

Hey Moore, Heres a pic of a typical wall we have, Its glued with no screws in the feild, See the glue holding out the board, So whats the point of me slammin a 20inch seam through this.........Nonewhatsoever?? Sometimes less is more, Moore, The LESS mud on the walls then the smoother and flatter it will be, It a point that is, we all know what that point is, The MORE mud on the walls, Then the more sanding so the more uneven it can be. Right before you all jump down my throat for that comment we are all aware for the need to do different things on differnet jobs, Im just trying to point why there is not much need to bust out wide seams ok :yes: Thats not so easy for me to word, But correct me if im wrong, im listening.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Boy ,,I really clogged this one up.
> Maybe I shouldn't post pix anymore.


You can post some more of your wife :whistling2:If that was your real wife you posted one time :whistling2:


----------



## moore

I get what your saying cazna,,,and your right:yes:.
Not to mention the studs being crowned .
The 3rd coat on my seams ,i put on,and wipe clean off.
with 12. check with 16 .my seams are slightly hollow.




ps.......the wallboard I deal with is f/n junk.GOLD BOND GRID MARX/TUFF ROCK/PRO ROCK ALL GARBAGE !!!!!!!!!:furious:
no one wants to dig deep for USG wallboard.
The gold bond 54s have recces like the worst bastard butt I've ever seen..
that's what happened with the add. on the old farm house.


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> You can post some more of your wife :whistling2:If that was your real wife you posted one time :whistling2:


Been together 20 years,,, Married for 13.
I gave her 7 years to know what she was gettin into


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> Hey Moore, Heres a pic of a typical wall we have, Its glued with no screws in the feild, See the glue holding out the board, So whats the point of me slammin a 20inch seam through this.........Nonewhatsoever?? Sometimes less is more, Moore, The LESS mud on the walls then the smoother and flatter it will be, It a point that is, we all know what that point is, The MORE mud on the walls, Then the more sanding so the more uneven it can be. Right before you all jump down my throat for that comment we are all aware for the need to do different things on differnet jobs, Im just trying to point why there is not much need to bust out wide seams ok :yes: Thats not so easy for me to word, But correct me if im wrong, im listening.


Gday Cazna.
I would be very interested to have seen a picture of the studs in that wall before it was sheeted.
If the glue is holding the sheet off the wall that much they are putting WAY TOO MUCH GLUE, and they are certanly not "tapping" the sheet on to the glue.


----------



## Final touch drywall

cazna said:


> Hey Moore, Heres a pic of a typical wall we have, Its glued with no screws in the feild, See the glue holding out the board, So whats the point of me slammin a 20inch seam through this.........Nonewhatsoever?? Sometimes less is more, Moore, The LESS mud on the walls then the smoother and flatter it will be, It a point that is, we all know what that point is, The MORE mud on the walls, Then the more sanding so the more uneven it can be. Right before you all jump down my throat for that comment we are all aware for the need to do different things on differnet jobs, Im just trying to point why there is not much need to bust out wide seams ok :yes: Thats not so easy for me to word, But correct me if im wrong, im listening.


That is a great example right there.:thumbsup:

those framers should be fired


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> The 3rd coat on my seams ,i put on,and wipe clean off.
> with 12. check with 16 .my seams are slightly hollow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /PRO ROCK ALL GARBAGE !!!!!!!!!:furious:
> no one wants to dig deep for USG wallboard.


Moore I let my knife do the work on every coat,(run it square to the seem just like a box is)if it needs mud,its gonna stay there.Every guy that comes & works for me,Its the first thing I ween them off.I tell them "we don't piss down our mud here")If your second coat mud is thick enough it will not shrink much on you @ all.

I agree gold bond is junk.
I was told by my supplier that usg Sheetrock is strictly sold to home depot & can't get.(anyone else here that??)

My supplier supply's pro-roc & I kinda like it fill nice & has no shoulders.(fills great with mesh & quick set):yes:


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> That is a great example right there.:thumbsup:
> 
> those framers should be fired


:blink:do you own a 4ft/6ft level ?
If so ,,take it to work with you tomorrow ,,And check.
Your booked till next spring ,so I'm sure your working tomorrow.


the framers use what the mills send them.
glue is only a speck of the problem .


----------



## Final touch drywall

metal stud job,not much outta wack
Even if it was wood,most the framers send the bad 1's back.
speck houses get the twisted studs


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> metal stud job,not much outta wack


wish I were you.:yes:


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> wish I were you.:yes:


You will if I tell you i'll be on a boat tomorrow while the guys make me money.


----------



## smisner50s

Final touch drywall said:


> That is a great example right there.:thumbsup:
> 
> those framers should be fired


 you apparently never framed a house before..because if you did you would now exactly how hard it is to deal with gurder trusses marrying up to hip trusses ...tji.on floor systems,lvl timberstrand beams that stuff is never the same dim as what it meets.A new home is a group effort between the masons.framing.hangers plumbers.elect.insulators.finishers...everyone need to work togather for a quality finished product...i have been building new homes and buildings my whole life.sence 10. with my dad..you can crown check every stud make the wall perfect...month later one stud dries out and wham bowed wall not framers falt...two opions...steel stud walls...or tji energeenerd lumberthat is perfect and kiln dried but a home owner is not gonna up the framing coast of there home from 150000 all the way to200000 just for energeenered wood...hangers can check for bad studs fix the crown and do a good job hanging ..because after the framing the hangers are the last chance the catch those bad studs....so before people jump to conclussions about items they see they need to consider all of the factors...not haten just staten


----------



## moore

even on my down time,, if the hangers are on the job ,,and don't need my help. they still get it ..for FREE..


----------



## moore

smisner50s said:


> you apparently never framed a house before..because if you did you would now exactly how hard it is to deal with gurder trusses marrying up to hip trusses ...tji.on floor systems,lvl timberstrand beams that stuff is never the same dim as what it meets.A new home is a group effort between the masons.framing.hangers plumbers.elect.insulators.finishers...everyone need to work togather for a quality finished product...i have been building new homes and buildings my whole life.sence 10. with my dad..you can crown check every stud make the wall perfect...month later one stud dries out and wham bowed wall not framers falt...two opions...steel stud walls...or tji energeenerd lumberthat is perfect and kiln dried but a home owner is not gonna up the framing coast of there home from 150000 all the way to200000 just for energeenered wood...hangers can check for bad studs fix the crown and do a good job hanging ..because after the framing the hangers are the last chance the catch those bad studs....so before people jump to conclussions about items they see they need to consider all of the factors...not haten just staten


THANKS THANKS THANKS THANKS:thumbup:


----------



## SlimPickins

I didn't see the older texture thread on the first page of search so I'll just put this in here....

This was a specific client request (with Ultra-fill added). Usually this hand texture has a lot less holidays, but he wanted it "busier" and "more skip-trowelly" It's a hybrid, maybe we'll call it "Ultra-skip Tuscan" or "Skuscan"....:blink:


----------



## chris

SlimPickins said:


> I didn't see the older texture thread on the first page of search so I'll just put this in here....
> 
> This was a specific client request (with Ultra-fill added). Usually this hand texture has a lot less holidays, but he wanted it "busier" and "more skip-trowelly" It's a hybrid, maybe we'll call it "Ultra-skip Tuscan" or "Skuscan"....:blink:


 now that looks nice:thumbsup: texture is for decorating not covering ..tell that to the knockdown boys:yes:


----------



## moore

I like It.
Is that the wall or ceiling? I don't see that here.
No knock down either .


----------



## moore

chris said:


> now that looks nice:thumbsup: texture is for decorating not covering ..tell that to the knockdown boys:yes:


Chris Is that simular to what you do? never seen yours that close up.
I do like that look. :yes:


----------



## smisner50s

started at 7 had both floors primed taped off textured lids..and walls poll sanded down ready for finish coat..by 2..hot hot hot day verry uncomfertible spraying and texturing


----------



## smisner50s

few more easy day tomorrow..just rolling paint on


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Chris Is that simular to what you do? never seen yours that close up.
> I do like that look. :yes:


yes really close looks like hawk and trowel.I do ours with pan and knife usually walls and ceilings


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla




----------



## moore

Field General said:


>


Don't bump into it.:no:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> started at 7 had both floors primed taped off textured lids..and walls poll sanded down ready for finish coat..by 2..hot hot hot day verry uncomfertible spraying and texturing


You poll sanded, where did your power sander go


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I didn't see the older texture thread on the first page of search so I'll just put this in here....
> 
> This was a specific client request (with Ultra-fill added). Usually this hand texture has a lot less holidays, but he wanted it "busier" and "more skip-trowelly" It's a hybrid, maybe we'll call it "Ultra-skip Tuscan" or "Skuscan"....:blink:


I like the look of that, do you paint the wall 1st, or afterwords , Silver stilts might want to know that:whistling2: Or can you put colour on the walls 1st, then trowel over it. We don't see skip trowel around here, and have never seen it done. Do you coat/load the mud on the walls, then float over it fast with a trowel, or are you loading the walls with short strokes of mud.

Do you have more pics of that ?????


----------



## rhardman

Slim,

My dad came back from L.A. with something like that. First he sprayed an orange peel and let it dry completely. Then he did your same sort of skip trowel but with more flat area to it (covering the orange peel) and the holes were a little larger. He sanded the knife marks off the surface and called it a "Hollywood Texture." It takes a lot of mud to cover that texture underneath and not leave any chatters.

Yours is the closest I've ever seen to it. The orange peel through the open spots is real interesting. You might want to give that a go on a piece of scrap rock sometime. Guaranteed, nobody else in your neighborhood has it.

It's nice for an entry way.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Time tested*



moore said:


> Don't bump into it.:no:


I am glad you brought that up ... I've been traveling with "The Temple" in the back of my pick-up ... wind, rain, extreme heat and cold ... takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'. I've dropped it off with board yards, contractors, architects, and CMs who have had there way with it ... poking, prodding, pulling, pushing ... and no harm, no foul. The joints are pretty durable.:boxing: Everyone that I've shown this to, or has seen it at a place that I left it for display, has commented that they are blown away but fear that if the concept catches on they won't be able to afford to get in the game. :blink:Creative destruction.


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

General, that stuff is quite impressive and you tell of how durable the finished product is. The only real issue that I would have is; while the machine is making precision pieces, how does this work with the substandard lumber used in framing today? We all know that it is not a perfect world. 

It just seems to me that the framing would have to be of the highest standards combined with nearly impossible to get true and straight lumber.

Is this system a little ahead of the rest of the industry?


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

M T Buckets Painting said:


> General, that stuff is quite impressive and you tell of how durable the finished product is. The only real issue that I would have is; while the machine is making precision pieces, how does this work with the substandard lumber used in framing today? We all know that it is not a perfect world.
> 
> It just seems to me that the framing would have to be of the highest standards combined with nearly impossible to get true and straight lumber.
> 
> Is this system a little ahead of the rest of the industry?


Very good questions ... answer - tolerances allowed for and glue, pretty much the standard for those of us who are left dealing with the sins of the guy before us. Another solution is panelizing these details and installing them as units ... like cabinets, like trim. :tank::tank::tank::tank:Many Tanks for your questions!


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> I like It.
> Is that the wall or ceiling? I don't see that here.
> No knock down either .


 Hey moore, that's a wall, but the ceilings were done the same way. I was using a light raking down the wall in a dark room so I could see what I was doing and realized the conditions were just right for a picture...usually texture pictures don't look so hot if you don't have some shadow contrast.



2buckcanuck said:


> I like the look of that, do you paint the wall 1st, or afterwords , Silver stilts might want to know that:whistling2: Or can you put colour on the walls 1st, then trowel over it. We don't see skip trowel around here, and have never seen it done. Do you coat/load the mud on the walls, then float over it fast with a trowel, or are you loading the walls with short strokes of mud.
> 
> Do you have more pics of that ?????


I don't paint first, but I certainly could....I like the wall to suck some moisture out of the mud, it sets up a little faster so I have less working time, but I can also work out any major imperfections in short order....when I go over paint I can't touch it again until it's dry (unless I want to stay around till the middle of the night). Generally, I load the wall in a rough pattern of what I want (only a hawk full) and finish it off right then. I don't have any more pics of this one...but I'll try to remember when I do it again.



rhardman said:


> Slim,
> 
> My dad came back from L.A. with something like that. First he sprayed an orange peel and let it dry completely. Then he did your same sort of skip trowel but with more flat area to it (covering the orange peel) and the holes were a little larger. He sanded the knife marks off the surface and called it a "Hollywood Texture." It takes a lot of mud to cover that texture underneath and not leave any chatters.
> 
> Yours is the closest I've ever seen to it. The orange peel through the open spots is real interesting. You might want to give that a go on a piece of scrap rock sometime. Guaranteed, nobody else in your neighborhood has it.
> 
> It's nice for an entry way.


That sounds interesting Rick...I did one recently where I solid coated the walls with ultra-fill, which has a really sandy/grainy look, and then an hour or two later, before the mud was totally dry I went over it with a looser mud for a 50/50 surface vs. void skip trowel. After waiting a little bit I burnished it so that the skip surface was as smooth as glass...it was cool, and I'm guessing sort of like what you're talking about....it's like texturing in reverse:thumbsup:


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

Field General said:


> Very good questions ... answer - tolerances allowed for and glue, pretty much the standard for those of us who are left dealing with the sins of the guy before us. Another solution is panelizing these details and installing them as units ... like cabinets, like trim. :tank::tank::tank::tank:Many Tanks for your questions!


 When panelizing these sections, would some sort of CMM (coordinate measuring machine) need to be used to determine the paramiters of the structure to be finished?

I see that some of the counter top guy's are using some new technologies in measuring the counter dimensions. Would something like they use be able to be incorporated into such applications?

Cost feasability would obviously be a key factor in such things. Would the average DW contractor be able to afford such costs?


----------



## smisner50s

some trimtex products


----------



## chris

that is tight:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

*Busy Saturday*

hangers started at 6am we got ther after 8,hung ,taped,put on NC and some other BS bead in a few spots....6sheets short:blink:got more rock, finished taping turned around and boxed it and coated bead. Home at 8pm dead tired have to coat out again have ready for paint by mid monday .Tried rolling mud on with mini roller and it worked pretty well to apply NC...will see tomorrow


----------



## mudslingr

How many in your crew ? How do you find the NC rolls for outside 90's?


----------



## chris

There were 4 hangers,they were wrapped up a lil after 10 (my bad) 6 sheets short luckily Home depot was a short par 5 away then just me and my partner Wade tapin. We also had a decent super on this job,he swept,moved stuff out of way, really long day ,60 12' 20 8' all steel frame and RMX ceiling. Framing changed all over to accomidate lightslets just say alot of clickers.Please be dry in morning:yes: Oh ya we get boxes of 100' 325,precut fold(its tricky) there are no seams and straighter than straight. That roller kicksbut ...hopefuly the paint mini roller method holds true. We have 3 local suppliers that carry about everything


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

chris said:


> There were 4 hangers,they were wrapped up a lil after 10 (my bad) 6 sheets short luckily Home depot was a short par 5 away then just me and my partner Wade tapin. We also had a decent super on this job,he swept,moved stuff out of way, really long day ,60 12' 20 8' all steel frame and RMX ceiling. Framing changed all over to accomidate lightslets just say alot of clickers.Please be dry in morning:yes: Oh ya we get boxes of 100' 325,precut fold(its tricky) there are no seams and straighter than straight. That roller kicksbut ...hopefuly the paint mini roller method holds true. We have 3 local suppliers that carry about everything


Look Ma no splices ... did similar projects the same way ... awesome and yes, when your dealing with long lengths of the stuff it can be tricky but always more productive than the alternatives. Great pictures!!


----------



## chris

more pics.got it all touched up and angle pumped,sand in morning. Will take more of finished before and after paint


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> more pics.got it all touched up and angle pumped,sand in morning. Will take more of finished before and after paint


Don't forget the girls this time :thumbup:

Sounds like they got their foot up your arse, what day this week do they want you done by. they get very pushy on those mall jobs:yes:


----------



## chris

Monday by noon. Painter we be there at 1. Mainly just a big ceiling and soffits,a few walls cover with wood and most columns also. Still alot of work in that lil sucker.Maybe have time tomorrow for some chick pics:yes:


----------



## Checkers

Chick pics! Chick pics! Chick pics!


----------



## Brian S

Checkers said:


> Chick pics! Chick pics! Chick pics!


:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## moore

Did you finish up Chris? If so. THAT'S ROLLIN.:yes:


----------



## joepro0000

thats what I'm talking about Chris, Mall Work! My Favorite, except for the food court, blahhhhh!


----------



## joepro0000

Chris, 

What I do before I frame, make the electricans layout their lights on the ground, or elsewise, they move the metal and relocate it.


----------



## chris

finished up about 11;30 .painters had to prime and paint today...hopefuly they keep a good attitude and dont slack.Sparky and super and framer all got together to figure out best way to approach 2/4 RMX to try and make it work. Problem was all light rings hung down below rock:furious:start stop start stop ..hand coat around almost every can.Overall it turned out real nice:thumbsup: will post some painted pics soon


----------



## moore

Looks great chris,,,, long weekend ? Like I said ,, That's rolling. 

That ink sure smells good. Don't put your foot down yet.
I'f I'm reading you right,,, You got more coming up. I'm right ,,Yes?


----------



## chris

We usually do most of the work at our mall. An out of state GC got thiis one:blink: dont ask how but evidently they can send a guy froom out of state,put him up for 6 weeks,send him home to his family thruout project and still make a profit. We have worked for this outfit before,good guys just feel there are enough local guys that could have done it also.Im confident that when this outfit comes back around they will be calling me:thumbsup:We are starting to buiild a new movie theatre at mall...should be a good one .Looks like things have picked up. Sorry no mall chicks felt kind of pervy if you know what I mean


----------



## Brian S

chris said:


> We usually do most of the work at our mall. An out of state GC got thiis one:blink: dont ask how but evidently they can send a guy froom out of state,put him up for 6 weeks,send him home to his family thruout project and still make a profit.


 
Looks neat:thumbup: well done, you got a bit of a shift on, looks like you should be in line for the next job:thumbsup::thumbsup:, I trust you gave him your card


Funnily enough Chris my company does the same as your GC, we get jobs all over the country (I know I know Britian is the same size as one of your states:tt2 and take our crew with us, who also live all over the country.


----------



## joepro0000

There are thousands of GC's who work in different states. Mostly they go High end Retail, with the same client in every state.


----------



## chris

done.


----------



## smisner50s

This one ill start hanging next week..all trimtex 3/4 bullnose with the fancy base converson blooks..fastcaps for bulkhead corners and 5 boxes of trimtex 3.5 crownmold all L5..


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> done.


That's a picture of a guys arse in the top right pic, we said girls:furious:

My hat goes off to you doing those type jobs, I did a Mac Donalds once, it was one big cluster f**K. All the trades tripping over each other and it was push,push,push, all day and night, guys kept saying, "I'm lovin it":thumbsup:

Never again


----------



## chris

Micky D,s.... we did 2 remods on them all night work,they do suck.We opened up a wall full of mold so I put on some of those fancy gloves the cooks use and dug in. I will remember that smell the rest of my life


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> Micky D,s.... we did 2 remods on them all night work,they do suck.We opened up a wall full of mold so I put on some of those fancy gloves the cooks use and dug in. I will remember that smell the rest of my life


Nasty


----------



## moore

The only thing plumb In this house Is the doggie door.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Is that your mini baker Moore, looks too clean to be yours, must be new or something:whistling2:


----------



## Final touch drywall

Looks good,do you always just skim your ceilings?


Yikes:w00t:
Last time a guy brought 1 of of those poll sanders(wallflappers)on the job.It went out the window:whistling2:
Damn you are old school.

Do you use stilts??or scaffold for everything.


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> Looks good,do you always just skim your ceilings?
> 
> 
> Yikes:w00t:
> Last time a guy brought 1 of of those poll sanders(wallflappers)on the job.It went out the window:whistling2:
> Damn you are old school.
> 
> Do you use stilts??or scaffold for everything.


.:yes: That's a gator head sander . It does not flip over.
High ceilings / scaffold. garage,, concrete floor/ scaffold.
Do I use stilts? Jesus ! Yeah like forever.


----------



## Checkers

Final touch drywall said:


> Looks good,do you always just skim your ceilings?



Moore skim something? Hell no, that's just how big his screw spots are!


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> Looks good,do you always just skim your ceilings?
> 
> 
> Yikes:w00t:
> Last time a guy brought 1 of of those poll sanders(wallflappers)on the job.It went out the window:whistling2:
> Damn you are old school.
> 
> Do you use stilts??or scaffold for everything.


Gator head ftd... great for angles .. I mostly sand with pads. Been using these for 2 years . Not a flip over yet.

No PC sander yet. Not rich like you.


----------



## moore

Worst paint job I've seen In a while. Roller stops, and roller marks everywhere.
I'm no painter,,,,,, Let me rephrase that,, you don't want me to paint.
,,,but on this job . I could have done 10 times better. ALL that time I spent doing the best I could to make this a top notch finish was for nothing. :furious::furious::furious:I threw some names at the H/O ,,,but they had a painter :whistling2:..
The dutch lap siding Is also the trim ,and baseboard inside [wood] same as the original part of the existing home..[addition] The trim carpenters asked the painters ,,,would you like to prime the trim before we put It up.. there 
response was no ,,we'll make It work.

Why spend all that money on a high end addition ,,,then hire your cousin to paint????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????:blink:hard to tell by the pic,,, but trust me It's not pretty close up.


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> Worst paint job I've seen In a while. Roller stops, and roller marks everywhere.
> ALL that time I spent doing the best I could to make this a top notch finish was for nothing.


Even though you get paid it still hurts to see someone butcher your work. I feel for ya moore !


----------



## chris

looks good to me,thats the beauty of pics.. usually cant see the paint:thumbsupretty cool design I think,looks good


----------



## Muddy Perfection

Score 1 for hand finishers! That is awesome!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Worst paint job I've seen In a while. Roller stops, and roller marks everywhere.
> I'm no painter,,,,,, Let me rephrase that,, you don't want me to paint.
> ,,,but on this job . I could have done 10 times better. ALL that time I spent doing the best I could to make this a top notch finish was for nothing. :furious:I threw some names at the H/O ,,,but they had a painter :whistling2:..
> The dutch lap siding Is also the trim ,and baseboard inside [wood] same as the original part of the existing home..[addition] The trim carpenters asked the painters ,,,would you like to prime the trim before we put It up.. there
> response was no ,,we'll make It work.
> 
> Why spend all that money on a high end addition ,,,then hire your cousin to paint????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????:blink:hard to tell by the pic,,, but trust me It's not pretty close up.


You should try taking on at least the priming of the job, if you can fit it in some how. I never price a side job with the priming. But at one point I do ask who is painting......and take it from there

Plus as your daughter ages, that could be some good side work for her. Painting is girly work so...........:jester:

Sorry MT and worky


----------



## fr8train

2buckcanuck said:


> Painting is girly work so...........:jester:
> 
> Sorry MT and worky


:boxing:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

fr8train said:


> :boxing:


:yes:


----------



## fr8train

H3LL she can paint my work anytime! I might even help!


----------



## Brian S

fr8train said:


> H3LL she can paint my work anytime! I might even help!


I'll go with that:thumbup:


----------



## Brian S

*A Previous Job*

We finished this one in January

http://www.tapingandjointing.com/forum/showthread.php/1110-The-last-job


----------



## moore

Brian S said:


> We finished this one in January
> 
> http://www.tapingandjointing.com/forum/showthread.php/1110-The-last-job


I like that scaffolding. :thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Brian S

We had 3 lots like that, one was full height (6.0 metres) to the trap hatch for access to the area with the Velux windows.

Just had to do a PASMA course to show me how to erect these scaffolds:whistling2:to get a ticket so I can use them on the site we started monday.
Only been useing them for the last 20 yrs


----------



## gazman

sounds familiar. Been on stilts nearly 30 years, then had to do a course to learn how to use them :furious:


----------



## moore

Brian S said:


> We had 3 lots like that, one was full height (6.0 metres) to the trap hatch for access to the area with the Velux windows.
> 
> Just had to do a PASMA course to show me how to erect these scaffolds:whistling2:to get a ticket so I can use them on the site we started monday.
> Only been useing them for the last 20 yrs


How's this for A scaffold set up Brian? 
If pop hadn't pulled out early , I wouldn't need that extra 4'' to reach the peak.:lol::lol:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

So what did you use around the windows, notice you got them coated


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> So what did you use around the windows, notice you got them coated


Taped them with a/p. like a seam . I didn't think hot mud would bond to well to the wood.. Don't have all that fancy stuff at the local supplies here.. I brought the tape up flush to the edge of window . I 'll over fill by a 1/6 and sponge sand it rounded like a bead,,, they gave me chit to work with,,, I'll give them what I can with what I have. 
This is the frog in the water cooler job,, These kids are helleins ..


----------



## Brian S

moore said:


> How's this for A scaffold set up Brian?
> If pop hadn't pulled out early , I wouldn't need that extra 4'' to reach the peak.:lol::lol:


 

Superb:thumbup: Just like I would do, and if that wasn't high enough, probably put a milk crate on top:thumbsup::lol:


----------



## smisner50s

Getting there..this place is gonna be one for the photo album..Everything gets bullnose and trimtex crownmold


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> Getting there..this place is gonna be one for the photo album..Everything gets bullnose and trimtex crownmold


oy boy....that looks like fun. For a little while.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> Getting there..this place is gonna be one for the photo album..Everything gets bullnose and trimtex crownmold


So,,,,,is this another job that is 9'-4" high, you seem to get a lot of those:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> So,,,,,is this another job that is 9'-4" high, you seem to get a lot of those:yes:


Where's the 56" board when you need it? :laughing:


----------



## gazman

You need cornice and steel battens. 90mm for cornice, 16mm for battens. There is an extra 90 od mm to play with. (You need to have something to fix your cornice to)
Gets rid of the bellyband.


----------



## moore

Rip on bottom. 6'' baseboard?


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> Getting there..this place is gonna be one for the photo album..Everything gets bullnose and trimtex crownmold


I just noticed the Tel-pro lift hiding in the background:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> So,,,,,is this another job that is 9'-4" high, you seem to get a lot of those:yes:


 Its like 8foot 2in ..docks plankfloors but it growes to 8foot 5in because of the camber in it...Everything i work on is never just 8foot..and no moore it gets 3.5 baseboard...sorry gazman couldent understand ya....like that lift slim:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I just noticed the Tel-pro lift hiding in the background:thumbsup:


No way, your using a lift for that job:blink:

Drywaller suppose to be strong like bull, and dumb like cow







,and have sex with sheep









Guess your going to half to wait for Isaac Michael Misner to come of age, then he can show Dad how it's done


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> ....like that lift slim:thumbsup:


I call mine "my silent partner" I can't stand having to take him places but I'm always glad he's there!


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> No way, your using a lift for that job:blink:
> 
> Drywaller suppose to be strong like bull, and dumb like cow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ,and have sex with sheep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess your going to half to wait for Isaac Michael Misner to come of age, then he can show Dad how it's done


My back cracker just built a wing on to his office ,,then sent me a thank you card .. Use that lift as often as you can steve.


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> My back cracker just built a wing on to his office ,,then sent me a thank you card .. Use that lift as often as you can steve.


I do use it when I can ...trust me I am strong like a bull


----------



## gazman

Here is a pic of cornice smisner.
It certanly gives you room to play with.


----------



## chris

gazman said:


> Here is a pic of cornice smisner.
> It certanly gives you room to play with.


 Crown Molding?? Cornice?? same thing??


----------



## gazman

Is it the same thing?
The cornice is fixed with a gypsum based adhesive cleaned down then sponged. It is paper faced with a gypsum core the same as sheet.
Not being a smart a just asking. 
Here is a clip.


----------



## Captain Drywall

I have a nikon D5000 also, I got a wide angle lens for 13 bucks online.


----------



## drywall guy158

moore said:


> How's this for A scaffold set up Brian?
> If pop hadn't pulled out early , I wouldn't need that extra 4'' to reach the peak.:lol::lol:


 
:thumbup: i have done the exact same thing !!


----------



## moore

The addition from HELL:furious: !


----------



## moore

16 window wraps ..


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Looks good moore, now that you got some money, you can get some angle heads:whistling2:

I know, we keep on bugging you, but they would save you a lot of time. I would just keep doing everything else by hand. Some of your contractors could get pissed with you if you got too many machines. They like what they see so they keep on hiring you. Just lay some angle tapes on by machine on day, then hand finish them. Then down the road, flush/glaze them , and none will be the wiser. Just keep doing the rest of your work the same:thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

I was finishing off a house today when the HO turned up with these 
6 corbells & 2 roses.


----------



## moore

That's cool gazman:yes:


----------



## joepro0000

Captain Drywall said:


> I have a nikon D5000 also, I got a wide angle lens for 13 bucks online.


 
I got the same camera from Target. Great pictures, where did you get the wide angle lens at?


----------



## gazman

moore said:


> That's cool gazman:yes:


Thanks Moore. They are not hard to do, just something a bit different.


----------



## smisner50s

Trimtex crown molding. bullnose.door packouts getting there.


----------



## smisner50s

some more


----------



## mudslingr

smisner50s said:


> Trimtex crown molding. bullnose.door packouts getting there.


That stuff sure is nice to work with ! Too bad about the last pic and the piece of base adapter you had to use. I can understand why, it just looks kinda weird right now. I'm sure it'll look great when you're done though !:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

mudslingr said:


> That stuff sure is nice to work with ! Too bad about the last pic and the piece of base adapter you had to use. I can understand why, it just looks kinda weird right now. I'm sure it'll look great when you're done though !:thumbsup:


 you can shorten the base adaptor ..but i figured i would try it like this ..why not :thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> you can shorten the base adaptor ..but i figured i would try it like this ..why not :thumbsup:


I think it will look good, will make the bull nose look more like a pillar, nor do you half to do that 22 degree miter .

How are you doing your miters, tin snips or chop saw ?????


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> I think it will look good, will make the bull nose look more like a pillar, nor do you half to do that 22 degree miter .
> 
> How are you doing your miters, tin snips or chop saw ?????


 crown i use 12inch slide miter ..bullnose snips


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> crown i use 12inch slide miter ..bullnose snips


Are those products provided by trim tex or something, maybe if you can provide a link one day when you have time.

Have not played with the vinyl crown before, like to be prepared if I get to one day:yes:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> Are those products provided by trim tex or something, maybe if you can provide a link one day when you have time.
> 
> Have not played with the vinyl crown before, like to be prepared if I get to one day:yes:


 yes it is all trimtex


----------



## gazman

smisner50s said:


> Trimtex crown molding. bullnose.door packouts getting there.


So now I know what crown moulding is. I have been wondering what it was.
Cornice seem alot easier with the same effect.:thumbup:


----------



## moore

May be the last speck for a while...


----------



## chris

lookin good:thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> May be the last speck for a while...


This one looks similar to other pics you have posted. Are these cracker jack-type specks or just a style that's in for that area?


----------



## cdwoodcox

smisner50s said:


> Trimtex crown molding. bullnose.door packouts getting there.


Looks good Smisner. I have been trying to use that stuff for awhile now contractors are scared of their crown being vinyl. After using it how would you compare it to wood crown?
How does it look on long runs where 2 pieces meet compared to wood crown.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

mudslingr said:


> This one looks similar to other pics you have posted. Are these cracker jack-type specks or just a style that's in for that area?


But were starting to rub off on moore, notice he did not build out the no-coat on the peaks as much this time:thumbup:

I would sand behind your work moore:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

gazman said:


> So now I know what crown moulding is. I have been wondering what it was.
> Cornice seem alot easier with the same effect.:thumbup:


most crown is wood ranging between from 3 to 7 inch and usually paints with a little prep,nicer wood gets a stain. Trimtek crown is considered a new product that drywallers/tapers install.Looks real sharp Smis :thumbsup: I have never used the crown but have been doing paint grade crown at a remod ...thought about using but would have to special order. SAy , do you use caulk on inside miters?Does TT make a product?Does caulking shine more/flash. We had caulked some reveal metal in past and it stuckout,but that was metal. Just curious. Just got a saw,but it is only a 10" Hitachi.Should have got 12":yes:


----------



## Drywall_King

I like what i see... id do allmost everything the same but my screws would be coated in a row... nice work moore...


----------



## cazna

Yeah, Nice work moore, Similer to how my hand finishing use to look, but here you go, I will throw you a bone, Yours looks tidier than mine did, Ouch, That was my pride getting dented then.

Dosnt that trim tex stuff look amazing, Have you seen what they put on there facebook page, Thats stuffs amazing what you can create, Your imaginations your only limit.


----------



## moore

mudslingr said:


> This one looks similar to other pics you have posted. Are these cracker jack-type specks or just a style that's in for that area?


This g/c builds 6 different specks ..around 1500' , and he sells them, If you can believe that. Around $140,000 and up.
The other speck builders here aren't doing so well.


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> This g/c builds 6 different specks ..around 1500' , and he sells them, If you can believe that. Around $140,000 and up.
> The other speck builders here aren't doing so well.


Looks good


----------



## Captain Drywall

*wide angle lens*



joepro0000 said:


> I got the same camera from Target. Great pictures, where did you get the wide angle lens at?


 i did a google search , i dont remember the web site.. it was so cheap i was exspecting a scam but it works real well.


----------



## moore

Yeah, Nice work moore, Similer to how my hand finishing use to look, but here you go, I will throw you a bone, Yours looks tidier than mine did, Ouch, That was my pride getting dented then.

Sniff ,, sniff,,, thanks cazna . I'm sure you pinched a hole in your swivel 
chair while posting that.. I'm trying to keep my seams down to 12'' 
,, and my ultraflex to 10''


----------



## smisner50s

Had to leave my trimtex drywall project for a few days to head over to my dads job site his crew is on...state farm insurance office older house we gutted it reframed it to how state farm wanted it added to new porches with roofs wheelchair ramp..went over to day to finish hanging and prefill and hit screws...and i used some of my trimtex butt boards worked sweet...thanks trimtex


----------



## moore

Is that a werner bench smisner ?


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Is that a werner bench smisner ?


 yes sir


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> Had to leave my trimtex drywall project for a few days to head over to my dads job site his crew is on...state farm insurance office older house we gutted it reframed it to how state farm wanted it added to new porches with roofs wheelchair ramp..went over to day to finish hanging and prefill and hit screws...and i used some of my trimtex butt boards worked sweet...thanks trimtex


You got 2 drywall master pumps :thumbup:

I notice yours have still got the American flag on them, ours came off...... somehow:whistling2:


----------



## smisner50s

2buckcanuck said:


> You got 2 drywall master pumps :thumbup:
> 
> I notice yours have still got the American flag on them, ours came off...... somehow:whistling2:


 there coming off slowely..the flag came off my taper..


----------



## carpentaper

i have been installing wood crown for the last couple of days. i use a 10" hitachi slider chris. by far my favourite saw for a lot of reasons. did you buy the slider or the standard miter saw?


----------



## chris

carpentaper said:


> i have been installing wood crown for the last couple of days. i use a 10" hitachi slider chris. by far my favourite saw for a lot of reasons. did you buy the slider or the standard miter saw?


pivots both ways and slants one way. It doesnt pull towards you though...100.00 more bucks I should have spent.I do like mine though,cant beat it for price. Laser cutline also:thumbsup:


----------



## carpentaper

you will be able to cut any trim under 6" probably. except crown. i also have a dewalt that is just like yours. it's a great saw to have when i don't want to leave my fancy one on a job.


----------



## Kiwiman

smisner50s said:


> Had to leave my trimtex drywall project for a few days to head over to my dads job site his crew is on...state farm insurance office older house we gutted it reframed it to how state farm wanted it added to new porches with roofs wheelchair ramp..went over to day to finish hanging and prefill and hit screws...and i used some of my trimtex butt boards worked sweet...thanks trimtex


Funny how everyone has there eye on what tools you got, I was looking at the sign and thinking lucky your last name has an "N" in it .


----------



## smisner50s

Got all taped out today corners ran screws spotted 2end coat by 12..took lunch spotted third on screws and got everything boxed once..


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Couple of pics on typical house details around here before the final bead coat. Sorry about the dirty camera lens.


----------



## moore

Is fast cap gods gift to drywall or what?? 

looks great :yes: turn your flash off .. that's what causes the spots
go b/w ..the work looks even better then. that's how I fool these guys..


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

moore said:


> I like those field screws. Is fast cap gods gift to drywall or what??
> 
> looks great :yes:


 Sorry moore, whats fast cap? Had a new guy hit the screws. He can't coat anything else.


----------



## moore

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Sorry moore, whats fast cap? Had a new guy hit the screws. He can't coat anything else.


the arches trim tex fast cap ???


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Nope! I've seen them but never used 'em, I'll have to talk to my pimp about it. Everything is 3/8 no-coat bull, about 75 sticks in this house along with about 300' of ultra 450. each archway takes around an hour to complete, there's six in this one.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Couple of pics on typical house details around here before the final bead coat. Sorry about the dirty camera lens.


Hey, it looks like you know what your doing :thumbsup:

Sometimes my screws will end up like that too, when I bring my daughter in to work with me the odd time. She refuses to stroke them out. I think she knows if she learns to stroke them out, I will drag her into work more:whistling2:

It's always great to have someone else do the screws, no matter how they get them done:yes:


----------



## mudslingr

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Couple of pics on typical house details around here before the final bead coat. Sorry about the dirty camera lens.


Nice job !:yes:
Just finished boarding a ceiling like that. Can't wait to tape it !


----------



## chris

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Nope! I've seen them but never used 'em, I'll have to talk to my pimp about it. Everything is 3/8 no-coat bull, about 75 sticks in this house along with about 300' of ultra 450. each archway takes around an hour to complete, there's six in this one.


whats the cost compare to the plastic 3/8? The plastic takes quite a bit of mud I think. Does the nc sticks cost much more?


----------



## Drywall_King

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Sorry moore, whats fast cap? Had a new guy hit the screws. He can't coat anything else.


 
I hate those screws pros coat in a row... looks like freckels on the ceilings.....


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Drywall_King said:


> I hate those screws pros coat in a row... looks like freckels on the ceilings.....


 How would you know?:laughing:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

chris said:


> whats the cost compare to the plastic 3/8? The plastic takes quite a bit of mud I think. Does the nc sticks cost much more?


 I'll find out Monday and post it.


----------



## moore

Drywall_King said:


> I hate those screws pros coat in a row... looks like freckels on the ceilings.....


 ..don't get me started on the flips:furious:


----------



## chris

*weekend wrapup*

some pics of job we wrapped up today,also pics from days back when hanging. 80 sheets and a LOT of patches. Comm. remod


----------



## moore

why ! why ! tell me why not tear out the whole wall ??? are you with me chris ? BASTARD BUTTS .. I told his g/c ,,,next time rip it all out..:yes::yes::yes::yes:


----------



## chris

Im with ya on that. Spending 100.00 dollars to save a 10.00:whistling2: kinda adds to the end of the bill tho:thumbsup: that wall had hardly ANY existing rock left.. you know how hard that was for every trade, demo was a pain,sparrky had to fish,drywallin sucked,tapiing the worst yet..sometimes I wonder whos in charge


----------



## chris

oh yeah...it was another air conditioned job. All Summer..A.C. remods


----------



## Captain Drywall

I was working on a remodel last week, it was hot, like 100 normaly i crank up the air, I cant afford to that at home. one time the homeowner came in, "you got a side of beef in here?". this timethe homeowner is home all day, they open the windows and let the 99 degree air cool the house off. Nothing better than stewing in your own juices.


----------



## chris

Captain Drywall said:


> I was working on a remodel last week, it was hot, like 100 normaly i crank up the air, I cant afford to that at home. one time the homeowner came in, "you got a side of beef in here?". this timethe homeowner is home all day, they open the windows and let the 99 degree air cool the house off. Nothing better than stewing in your own juices.


 peanut oil at a boil:yes:


----------



## chris

*Progess Report*

Very productive week so far Everybody happy. Gettin real close on top floor (tapin) 3rd floor is hung,partially taped.Just some Misc. pics. The groin vault pic is 1rst layer 1/4. Will post pic of 2nd .The low opening pic is a massage table storage:blink: Other pics that are coated are kids bedrooms (2 story) . Couple different stairways. ....... Im beat up from the feet up


----------



## chris

*Progess Report*

ooops


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> ooops


Not at the quality of your work, but at the nature of the work....Yuck. Unless the money is AWESOME, than YAY!


----------



## moore

Sand day will be a happy day.. Looks good..:thumbsup:how many in your crew chris?


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Sand day will be a happy day.. Looks good..:thumbsup:how many in your crew chris?


Especially if I dont do it (sand):yes: I was only able to send 4 hangers Mon. 5 Tues 5 wed. 7 guys today. Lotta board gettin screwd today. Just me and my partner until yesterday,hired a local ole timer to help out (really good taper) lil slow on movin but very good work.We got our old helper comin back tommorow :thumbup: . Really missed the kid. We also have a laborer now doin cleanup,scaff setup and other sht


----------



## smisner50s

finished my dads jobsite on wed preped out and primed thursday and worked half day today textured out the lids and got 2coats of finish paint on the bathroom...finish painting it out tue and wed it get 2 toned...and i used a portercable power sander and radious sanding tools..


----------



## smisner50s

some moore


----------



## smisner50s

some more


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Nice texture on the lids sminser! Did they drop the floor in before the paint or do you just mask off that well?


----------



## smisner50s

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Nice texture on the lids sminser! Did they drop the floor in before the paint or do you just mask off that well?


 there is 2 hardwoood flooors that get refinished..and i do keep it clean


----------



## gazman

All of those light and power point holes must be a pain in the butt.


----------



## chris

2nd layer on vault,I think the hangers treated me good:thumbsup: should be able to make it look good:yes: couple pics of Nocoat . Say Joe (trim tek) what do you have for groin vaults?


----------



## mudslingr

smisner50s said:


> some more


Square fixture, round hole ? :blink:


----------



## moore

chris said:


> 2nd layer on vault,I think the hangers treated me good:thumbsup: should be able to make it look good:yes: couple pics of Nocoat . Say Joe (trim tek) what do you have for groin vaults?


TRY a 10'' knife or 12'':whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> 2nd layer on vault,I think the hangers treated me good:thumbsup: should be able to make it look good:yes: couple pics of Nocoat . Say Joe (trim tek) what do you have for groin vaults?


Straight Flex makes this one....

http://store.straitflex.com/product_p/af-100-c.htm


----------



## cdwoodcox

What do you think of that texture sprayer Smisner? I run the same one. I wish I had a bigger unit anything over 9' and you're wearing more than you get on the ceiling.
Oh and is that thing ever been used. You must put that in the bath with you to keep it that clean.


----------



## moore

moore said:


> TRY a 10'' knife or 12'':whistling2:


sorry chris we use glue here .there would be much more void ..my bad!


----------



## chris

moore said:


> sorry chris we use glue here .there would be much more void ..my bad!


never have used glue other than trublesome areas. The glue keeps board from layin flat? I would still put screws in vaults.(softer angles).. the no coat would cover screws and prevent pops I would think. That was the nc 325.Straight flex product pretty sweet.... just what Im after... 325.00 a box of 100' that


----------



## chris

moore said:


> TRY a 10'' knife or 12'':whistling2:


 we will 2nd coat with 10


----------



## Trim-Tex

Jumbo Double Archway Splayed Corner Bead. # JSA10
Ours has a sturdy mud bump to blade off of 
It's on catalog page #8


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Trim-Tex said:


> Jumbo Double Archway Splayed Corner Bead. # JSA10
> Ours has a sturdy mud bump to blade off of
> It's on catalog page #8




http://renaissancefasteners.com/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=324&idproduct=1524


----------



## Captain Drywall

smisner50s said:


> some moore


 your material is to heavy for that machine, Ive been spray'n since 1973 and ive been using one of those gracos for 8 years. so i know.


----------



## Checkers

Captain Drywall said:


> your material is to heavy for that machine, Ive been spray'n since 1973 and ive been using one of those gracos for 8 years. so i know.


I didn't want to say anything first but that doesn't really look like orange peel, more like knock down that you didn't knock down.


----------



## chris

Checkers said:


> I didn't want to say anything first but that doesn't really look like orange peel, more like knock down that you didn't knock down.


splatter is what we call it,captain is right,mud too thick,it should lay down like say the side of an orange....orange peel. Have used that same machine (maybe a few yrs. older) while it was working proper was pretty nice unit....10000' or more


----------



## moore

chris said:


> splatter is what we call it,captain is right,mud too thick,it should lay down like say the side of an orange....orange peel. Have used that same machine (maybe a few yrs. older) while it was working proper was pretty nice unit....10000' or more


Hey boss what the hell are you doing at home with that monstrosity ya got going on ? :lol::lol:


----------



## alltex

2buckcanuck said:


> while,since everyone is posting pics,here's the job I'm on .Took daughter in to single spot the screws .She's the one that owns the camera, that she won't let me use .
> It's around 7,000 sq,working by myself, kid in hospital .started Friday ,should be done Wednesday .
> Another weekend stuck working :furious:


nice to see some one who keeps their tools as clean as mine.Enjoy your daughter while you can ,its great !! Mine is a teenager now ,Hard to get her on the job anymore.


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Hey boss what the hell are you doing at home with that monstrosity ya got going on ? :lol::lol:


Rules are rules . No worky on Sundays or Holidays on this one.Wife workin, at home with my 3yr old twins:help:got my hands full


----------



## moore

chris said:


> Rules are rules . No worky on Sundays or Holidays on this one.Wife workin, at home with my 3yr old twins:help:got my hands full


YES you do have your hands full....ENJOY..:yes:


----------



## smisner50s

captain drywall said:


> your material is to heavy for that machine, ive been spray'n since 1973 and ive been using one of those gracos for 8 years. So i know.


 the finished product of a texture is not just a textbook form style...each person has there own look and perferance...this client wanted this look thats what they got ..and sorry to disagree but no thats not to heavy for that machine.i would know i was spraying it...maby the pic look heavy but in person it is light...you know pic..never as they seen..and ive had my graco for 12 years .lots of miles on it but i clean it well in and out so it will last...


----------



## Captain Drywall

Scottish Drywaller said:


> Just wondering if you guys in the US get paid for the whole wall. What i mean is do you get paid a different rate for the area above the ceiling where it is only fire/smoke taped?


A contractor charges a total amount of money for all the materials and labor. When he pays he pays what he has to. 

Some drywall contractors pay me to texture (spray, knockdown) a per foot price. so they say that house has 6000 feet. I say no it has more like 7000 feet. They say well i deduct 10% for scrap. I say but, you probably charged for all the board and i want to be paid for all of it.. since i am masking the windows etc. If they could they'd have me scrap the floors, clean out the boxes, clean the widow frames etc. and some texture guys do all that. I just don't. All thing are negotiable

back to the wall, around here it is often a differnt crew who taped the job , than did the finish. thus the tape crew would be paid for the part above the grid, the finishers prob. wouldnt be paid for it since it only firetape. Why have a seperate crew? fewer tools are needed that way. also if a guy just tapes he can get very good at it,, same with finishers. as with me i normally only texture.


----------



## chris

Captain Drywall said:


> A contractor charges a total amount of money for all the materials and labor. When he pays he pays what he has to.
> 
> Some drywall contractors pay me to texture (spray, knockdown) a per foot price. so they say that house has 6000 feet. I say no it has more like 7000 feet. They say well i deduct 10% for scrap. I say but, you probably charged for all the board and i want to be paid for all of it.. since i am masking the windows etc. If they could they'd have me scrap the floors, clean out the boxes, clean the widow frames etc. and some texture guys do all that. I just don't. All thing are negotiable
> 
> back to the wall, around here it is often a differnt crew who taped the job , than did the finish. thus the tape crew would be paid for the part above the grid, the finishers prob. wouldnt be paid for it since it only firetape. Why have a seperate crew? fewer tools are needed that way. also if a guy just tapes he can get very good at it,, same with finishers. as with me i normally only texture.


Do you still spray knockdown on a consistent basis or have the dwc in your area started doin more level 4 0r 5 work to achieve a cleaner,more professional look


----------



## Soultear

gazman said:


> Is it the same thing?
> The cornice is fixed with a gypsum based adhesive cleaned down then sponged. It is paper faced with a gypsum core the same as sheet.
> Not being a smart a just asking.
> Here is a clip.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LjC55fXNI8&feature=related


Awesome, looks good!!:thumbsup: Do you still caulk/ dap your ends and edges for a crack fail safe finish? or you just use mud with white glue? 

Just wondering


----------



## gazman

It is stuck in place with cornice cement which is like hot mud with an adhesive built in. We use it to finish miters as well.


----------



## gazman

Here are some pics of an arch that a rangehood fits up in. It is an older home that is being renovated. I used a piece of Ezy-reveal and cut slots in the perferated section to make the curve. I wanted to use steel as it sits above the gas cooktop.


----------



## smisner50s

Got some paint on the walls today..few to go


----------



## gazman

Here Are some pics of the cornice that I am using on that renovation. It is plaster cast in a mold. I will post some more pics when it is finnished.


----------



## moore

A drywall man with a miter box,,What Is the world coming to?
Just kidding gazman ,, Looking forward to see the final pics.:yes:


----------



## gazman

some final pics.


----------



## Kiwiman

I need one of those large mitre box's, I just finished a house lot of 90mm and my old wooden mitre box that a joiner custom made for me many many years ago is about clagged, you just don't see anything here large enough other than the small handyman ones.


----------



## cazna

Wow, Look at all the thanks you got gazman, Looks good, I have a couple of those alloy planks as well, Good arnt they.


----------



## gazman

Kiwiman said:


> I need one of those large mitre box's, I just finished a house lot of 90mm and my old wooden mitre box that a joiner custom made for me many many years ago is about clagged, you just don't see anything here large enough other than the small handyman ones.


Gday Kiwiman.
Here is a link for some info.
http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.htm?p=2033&c=6
If you want one of those mitre boxes send me a pm I am sure that I could send one over the ditch.


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> Wow, Look at all the thanks you got gazman, Looks good, I have a couple of those alloy planks as well, Good arnt they.


I guess alot of guys have not seen the old plaster cornice, it is becoming a lost art.
Those planks are great. I have six 2x3.0, 2x4.0, 2x5.0. Got them from Ulrich aluminium. They are a Kiwi company. Cheap as.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> I guess alot of guys have not seen the old plaster cornice, it is becoming a lost art.
> Those planks are great. I have six 2x3.0, 2x4.0, 2x5.0. Got them from Ulrich aluminium. They are a Kiwi company. Cheap as.


Haha, Funny, Us kiwis supplying you with planks, I have a couple of 4m ullrich and one 4m alco that splits into two 2m planks, Also great for storing 3m beads. Ullrich and Alco make great planks, ladders, steps etc, There are a few other brands here as well. These are hell strong, I have the plank legs. http://easyaccess.co.nz/shop/Warthog+Welded+Ladders.html


----------



## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> Gday Kiwiman.
> Here is a link for some info.
> http://www.wallboardtools.com.au/product-detail.htm?p=2033&c=6
> If you want one of those mitre boxes send me a pm I am sure that I could send one over the ditch.


Oh thats bloody good of you Gaz :thumbsup: hold that thought I may take you up on that offer, I just had an idea on how to modify another gizmo I've got, but not sure yet if it will fit 90mm stuff, I'll let you know, Thanks again neighbor:thumbsup:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Oh thats bloody good of you Gaz :thumbsup: hold that thought I may take you up on that offer, I just had an idea on how to modify another gizmo I've got, but not sure yet if it will fit 90mm stuff, I'll let you know, Thanks again neighbor:thumbsup:


Those wooden plasterex mitre boxes are good Kiwiman, They do 55 75 and 90, Nick sells em, I have 3.


----------



## smisner50s

well tomorrow will be my last day here .ill i have to do is put final coat of trim paint on.casing chairrail base windows..than back to trimtex job site..the hardwood floor in the picture is going to be refinished...we do the framing.drywall.paint .trim.doors and flooring.sparkys still have to divice out everything..


----------



## smisner50s

some more


----------



## moore

dude ..you kept those floors clean ..:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

more finished pic


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Those wooden plasterex mitre boxes are good Kiwiman, They do 55 75 and 90, Nick sells em, I have 3.


 Cheers, yup I've seen those, nothing at all wrong with them but I was thinking more along the lines of something that won't wear out, for the 55mm and the 75mm I use those yellow plastic mitre box's from Mitre10, they are the ones with holes in the bottom for adjusting the guides, they'll last for like 30 or 40 (just a guess) house lots before I replace them.


----------



## Captain Drywall

Around here we do the angles right away, makes it so you dont have to be super clean whiping the flat into the angle. If i left angles off, there would be some splaining to do.


----------



## chris

*week 2*

a couple pics : dome 1rst try,dome 2nd try , great room....


----------



## chris

already chewed but about seam on left with all the wires...gotta btch bout somethin:whistling2:


----------



## Kiwiman

WOW!!! Thats all I can say :thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

Holy crap. That is unreal. :thumbsup:


----------



## moore

Kiss my ass .. you can have that... Unless ya wanna pay me by the hour :whistling2: LOL.. what are you using on the dome [tape] ???LOOKS PRO!!!!:yes:

:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> a couple pics : dome 1rst try,dome 2nd try , great room....


You lucky S.O.B. Wish I could be doing a dome

Can we ask you what your charging them for that:whistling2: Or approximate hours you put into it when your all done

Keep posting pics as you finish that please, Theres going to be a lot of man hours on that one:yes:


----------



## mudslingr

Looks like a pain in the a$$. Let me at it !:yes:

Gonna look good when it's done. Nice job chris !:thumbup:


----------



## chris

Thanks Guys. First time on dome so dont laugh too hard. Will more than likely use paper tape... was brainstorming about other methods but figure some ap and paper would work best. Really happy with the drywall workGoing to be fabricating a knife this weekend to help with shaping. Im open for suggestions if anyone out there has experience with this type of finishing. I have a gameplan but hearing others may be helpful or funny maybe...:whistling2: Fire away


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> Thanks Guys. First time on dome so dont laugh too hard. Will more than likely use paper tape... was brainstorming about other methods but figure some ap and paper would work best. Really happy with the drywall workGoing to be fabricating a knife this weekend to help with shaping. Im open for suggestions if anyone out there has experience with this type of finishing. I have a gameplan but hearing others may be helpful or funny maybe...:whistling2: Fire away


All you can do is tape it and start loading away, Till you get to a certain point. That's when I would make up a round slicker, maybe 2 or 3 feet wide that follows the arch/curve you want to maintain. Make one out of plastic maybe. You could use it to coat with (when your near the end) or use it as a gauge to check for hollows, and coat any hollows out by hand.

Hope it's not a painted ceiling though


----------



## cazna

Holy crap, Why didnt they make it from fiberous plaster???? They can shape that stuff to whatever you want?? Less seams and less work for you, Prob more stable too, Hows it going to stay together with all that timber and joins and mud needed, Double fibafuse it, Bugger the paper on that sucker.


----------



## Trim-Tex

Looks great Chris! I recommend Mud-Max ( high quality white glue ) on the first coat. Also there is a bendable 24" white plastic blade with a handle on each end that works nice on curve walls and domes. I will try to find one for you.


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> Thanks Guys. First time on dome so dont laugh too hard. Will more than likely use paper tape... was brainstorming about other methods but figure some ap and paper would work best. Really happy with the drywall workGoing to be fabricating a knife this weekend to help with shaping. Im open for suggestions if anyone out there has experience with this type of finishing. I have a gameplan but hearing others may be helpful or funny maybe...:whistling2: Fire away


Super-flexy pool trowel? And if you're going to fabricate a knife, make sure it's got some flex to it. I built an elliptical one last month but the material was a touch too thick and a pain in the ass to work with.

By the way, what are all the wires for?


----------



## chris

SlimPickins said:


> Super-flexy pool trowel? And if you're going to fabricate a knife, make sure it's got some flex to it. I built an elliptical one last month but the material was a touch too thick and a pain in the ass to work with.
> 
> By the way, what are all the wires for?


 have a feeling will be using pool trowel for final float,it gets a plaster style finish so no tex,dont know what all wires are for but they are EVERYWHERE electricians left about 6' or more of wire.... longer than needed.Think trim tek had some good advice on using mudmax ... Mad Max,thunderdome...2 man enter , 1 man leave


----------



## Soultear

Wow! I do not envy you right now Chris. Good job though on the "Ceiling From Hell".


----------



## Trim-Tex

Here is the trowel my guys use often

www.ebuildingproducts.com/catalog/e-z-*trowel*.htm

Cheers


----------



## moore

pre fill with flimsy 5'' [round off] then tape ,,and wipe down with flimsy 6'' use the same 6 to coat with then go to bowed 8 .. after that I would ,,,,,,,,,, can't say .. that would be suicide :yes: never used knife in pic ,,but it looks like the tool for the job [chris] allwall tools corner trowels...


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> have a feeling will be using pool trowel for final float,it gets a plaster style finish so no tex,dont know what all wires are for but they are EVERYWHERE electricians left about 6' or more of wire.... longer than needed.Think trim tek had some good advice on using mudmax ... Mad Max,thunderdome...2 man enter , 1 man leave


F*&$ing electricians. I've had to hang around wires like that (not quite so many though)...a real pain in the ass when you're a solo hanger. Good luck man...may the force be with you.


----------



## SlimPickins

Trim-Tex said:


> Here is the trowel my guys use often
> 
> www.ebuildingproducts.com/catalog/e-z-*trowel*.htm
> 
> Cheers


Yeah, that's the one I was looking for but couldn't seem to find it. A guy could make one pretty easy, but not sure if it's worth the time when you could just buy one. Or, you could just find the radius of the dome and cut something to that...either way, good times lie ahead.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Trim-Tex said:


> Here is the trowel my guys use often
> 
> www.ebuildingproducts.com/catalog/e-z-*trowel*.htm
> 
> Cheers


Bingo, what I was trying to explain, and what slim says too, you could make one but....... if it fits the contour of the dome, then Chris is in business.

Plus they flex too, so you can jerry rig it to maintain a certain arch,,,,, If you wanted:yes:


----------



## Trim-Tex

Chris, if you don't have time to buy one you can make it from 1/4 plexi glass. The E-Z Trowel flexes front to back thus making any radius you need. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you photo's of both trowels we use here. 

also when ready for sanding our #540 Black Widow Sander with our foam backed cloth abrasive pad will conform nicely to most radius.


----------



## moore

Chit job.. Was framed In 1996. 180 Mile round trip to boot.


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Chit job.. Was framed In 1996. 180 Mile round trip to boot.


Looks good


----------



## joepro0000

Hi Moore, 

Quick question- If you put a 6' level on your walls, are they pretty much flat, no more than 1/4" out? 

Reason I ask is because I notice there is not alot of screws installed on the drywall, and when we don't have alot of screws, they drywall is not perfectly flat and leaves humps.


----------



## moore

joepro0000 said:


> Hi Moore,
> 
> Quick question- If you put a 6' level on your walls, are they pretty much flat, no more than 1/4" out?
> 
> Reason I ask is because I notice there is not alot of screws installed on the drywall, and when we don't have alot of screws, they drywall is not perfectly flat and leaves humps.


Please don't judge my work by this cluster f$ck job .. I use glue [lots of it]
A screw where needed in the field .. When glue has set [2-3 days] I pull all field screws out ,and then fill holes . In wood frame homes all field screws WILL bubble out within a year.... no matter what side of the planet you live ..If you don't believe me.. any of you guys rocking wood frame homes ..go back and check out those field screws you set a year or two ago ..Yeah It happens In 
Minnesota too,,, just go back and look:blink:


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> pre fill with flimsy 5'' [round off] then tape ,,and wipe down with flimsy 6'' use the same 6 to coat with then go to bowed 8 .. after that I would ,,,,,,,,,, can't say .. that would be suicide :yes: never used knife in pic ,,but it looks like the tool for the job [chris] allwall tools corner trowels...


These work quite well on most rounded angles. We call it a bat-knife around here.


----------



## moore

''when we don't have alot of screws, they drywall is not perfectly flat and leaves humps.''



SON !!! I have to deal with the worst timber known to man.. 
perfectly flat Is not gonna happen... glue or no glue..


----------



## gazman

Man am I glad that I mostly go over steel.:thumbup:


----------



## Checkers

A home for a richie rich here in Bozeman, MT.



















And finally, a gold plated turd. 
This is a drag racers personal new shop. (John Lewton, Whitehall, MT)
Mesh tape and hot mud over particle board that was hung with nails on lathe 50+ years ago, can you say hammer?


----------



## gazman

Interesting looking building. What is it?


----------



## Checkers

gazman said:


> Interesting looking building. What is it?


EDIT: Added descriptions.

Top is a custom home, bottom is a shop.


----------



## chris

*makin progress*

top 2 floors done. On main now...almost done with scaffold work,couple pics of 1rst coat with my badass Blueline 8:thumbsup:cool pic of excavator


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> top 2 floors done. On main now...almost done with scaffold work,couple pics of 1rst coat with my badass Blueline 8:thumbsup:cool pic of excavator


Hows that dome ceiling coming along chris ?

We got a job like yours starting tomorrow, easy for me but not for 2bjr, I get to push him around on scaffold all day:thumbup::whistling2:


----------



## chris

2buckcanuck said:


> Hows that dome ceiling coming along chris ?
> 
> We got a job like yours starting tomorrow, easy for me but not for 2bjr, I get to push him around on scaffold all day:thumbup::whistling2:


 make sure you clean floors good,nothing like cruisin along and get stopped dead in ur tracks cause framers left little chunks of wood everywhereI put up some more 350 bull in dome and we are making our way to it. lotsa snags on this job and changes being made daily. Wrapping up the hangin on stairtower,will get some good pics when worthy of it.


----------



## joepro0000

gazman said:


> Man am I glad that I mostly go over steel.:thumbup:


 
me too!:thumbup:


----------



## joepro0000

Chris- Nice pictures, did you finish that with a 10" box off a scaffold? Also, I imagine you used a lift for those 16' sheets?

Moore- I understand you, wood studs suck. I asked that just wandering because alot of jobs I do, people our checking our work constantly with 8' levels and squares. We even put our cornerbeads in soffits with a chaulk line or laser.


----------



## chris

joepro0000 said:


> Chris- Nice pictures, did you finish that with a 10" box off a scaffold? Also, I imagine you used a lift for those 16' sheets?
> 
> Moore- I understand you, wood studs suck. I asked that just wandering because alot of jobs I do, people our checking our work constantly with 8' levels and squares. We even put our cornerbeads in soffits with a chaulk line or laser.


 1rst coat with 8" Blueline, yes I boxed off scaffold in pic with 2 guys pushin. Like mentioned before clean floor very well and hope pushers stay in straight lines. Did all work in about 30 min. or less. Not bad for a beat up whiteboy:yes: oh ya about the lift...no lift just scaffold,dont trust plywood enouf to use lift. Dont remember ordering 16' sheets either,they just look big in pic


----------



## gazman

Kiwiman said:


> I need one of those large mitre box's, I just finished a house lot of 90mm and my old wooden mitre box that a joiner custom made for me many many years ago is about clagged, you just don't see anything here large enough other than the small handyman ones.


Gday Kiwiman.
I did a bit of searching and it looks like you can get those mitre boxes in NZ. And they are looking for distributers in NZ to (May be an opening). Here is a link.
http://www.exaliaproducts.co.nz/


----------



## Kiwiman

gazman said:


> Gday Kiwiman.
> I did a bit of searching and it looks like you can get those mitre boxes in NZ. And they are looking for distributers in NZ to (May be an opening). Here is a link.
> http://www.exaliaproducts.co.nz/


Thanks Gazman, I said to Caz you seemed to be a good bugger and I was right :thumbsup:, thats one thing there's not a big selection of in NZ, not for larger cove anyway.


----------



## gazman

This is another cornice that we use. This one is made by CSR and called Symphony. Sorry about the finger prints on the lense of the phone camera.


----------



## cazna

I quite like that one, It comes with a double step at the top as well, I think is called soprano here.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> This is another cornice that we use. This one is made by CSR and called Symphony. Sorry about the finger prints on the lense of the phone camera.


That's basically what most of our crown moulding looks like, except it's made out of wood. Since Canuck land has lots of trees.... and snow, do you want some snow gazman, it's Canada's number one export


----------



## moore

What impresses me Is how well that crown rest against that bead.
That's a level bead :yes:


----------



## gazman

Thank you very much for the offer 2Buck but I will pass. We do get some snow here in AU. We can see Mount Bogong not far from my place and it gets snow for about four months of the year. They call it a mountain but by your standards it is a hill at best, it is the highest one in the state. I think it is about 1986 Meters from memory.


----------



## chris

started dome.. prefill and tape all bead coated.Startin to look real good. Got stairway finished on hangin still alota tapin to do


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> started dome.. prefill and tape all bead coated.Startin to look real good. Got stairway finished on hangin still alota tapin to do


Loooookin' Goood:thumbsup:


----------



## Bill from Indy

chris said:


> started dome.. prefill and tape all bead coated.Startin to look real good. Got stairway finished on hangin still alota tapin to do


I need another beer...that makes me dizzy just looking at it.....looks good though


----------



## gotmud

Umm wow! That is awesome!
This makes me proud to be part of DWT, all the talent
that is on here. I wanna be that good someday:thumbsup:


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

gotmud said:


> Umm wow! That is awesome!
> This makes me proud to be part of DWT, all the talent
> that is on here. I wanna be that good someday:thumbsup:



Work of the Big Dogs


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> started dome.. prefill and tape all bead coated.Startin to look real good. Got stairway finished on hangin still alota tapin to do


Looken. Good. Can't wait to see finished product


----------



## cazna

That domes amazing, Well done doing that.
Heres my current job, Plaster and paint, Not as impressive as a dome but oh well, That beam is metallic silver, I sprayed it 5 times, Very tricky stuff to use and i had to mask off the room to do it, The benchtops will be dark granite and the floors need sanded and varnished yet with timber frames around the doors and windows so its all gonna look quite good, Ive also sprayed bathroom and laundry walls metallic silver as well.
The house is on a hill with amazing sea views.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> That domes amazing, Well done doing that.
> Heres my current job, Plaster and paint, Not as impressive as a dome but oh well, That beam is metallic silver, I sprayed it 5 times, Very tricky stuff to use and i had to mask off the room to do it, The benchtops will be dark granite and the floors need sanded and varnished yet with timber frames around the doors and windows so its all gonna look quite good, Ive also sprayed bathroom and laundry walls metallic silver as well.
> The house is on a hill with amazing sea views.


Impressive,,,, you do good work !!!!


----------



## cazna

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Impressive,,,, you do good work !!!!


Thanks. Capt, I appreciate that, The photos dont do the metallic justice, Its cool stuff, Sparkles under different lighting, Its actually the worst stuff i have ever seem for showing up chips, dings, scratches, Sealer brush marks etc, It lands in them and reflects the light like you wouldnt believe. And against white you really have to get the masking right or your screwed :blink:.

The laundry is getting a wallpapered red feature wall as well im doing tomorrow, That metallic silver stuff looks cool, Waterbased product but turns to crap if you brush or roll it so it needs to be sprayed, Amazing what they can make now days. Do you guys have that stuff, I would guess you do being a nation that likes bing. :whistling2::jester:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> That domes amazing, Well done doing that.
> Heres my current job, Plaster and paint, Not as impressive as a dome but oh well, That beam is metallic silver, I sprayed it 5 times, Very tricky stuff to use and i had to mask off the room to do it, The benchtops will be dark granite and the floors need sanded and varnished yet with timber frames around the doors and windows so its all gonna look quite good, Ive also sprayed bathroom and laundry walls metallic silver as well.
> The house is on a hill with amazing sea views.


I think I see a spot of mud on your 2 step Cazna the clean, you better clean that off:whistling2:

Looks good:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

this is the house were in right now, started it last Sunday. Finally getting some houses that are worthy of a 2 man crew with this new DWC we started working for. There's a 1/2 basement to finish too

Pic 2 is the living room, I think:blink:

pic 3 is 2bjr's handy dandy work, I remained on the ground supervising, Looks like I should check that butt joint over the door:yes:

Pic 4 is a coffered ceiling, which is going to receive knock down spray, which is not done by us, DWC has their own guys to do it


----------



## 2buckcanuck

pic 1 & 2 same room.This is what our work looks like just before sand. Just the butts need to be skimmed out yet. Butts up to that point were built out with the boxes (slim). The ceiling gets KD, so we do the chase/trace thing with the 10" box over one tape coat. Wall flats done with the Captains favourite tool:jester: the 12" box:whistling2:. Screws are one stroke out, with straight stiff mud, then a tiny single spot (makes for easier sanding) then a TT 3" spotter. Always keep my butts the same size too, My B.S. baffles brains theory, only build them out more if they really really need it. ( visible to the eye)

Pic 3 is a shot from the kitchen, the room where me and 2bjr argue in when we have lunch, a break, or a smoke:furious:

Pic 4 is the garage, it's what we call a tape and a coat. One coat on everything, and we don't do the trace/DD run with the 10
" box. Butts done by hand (H&T), a long with bead. But now the DWC's are wanting us to sand this out now.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Just thought I'd throw in these pics too

1st one the pic did not turn out, but it does show critical lighting on the walls

2nd pic different shot of the garage

3rd pic is a scaffold set up I built in a stairwell, holds a fat guy really well:whistling2:

4th pic is my new coffee maker, which might become a bucket heater if 2bjr don't start making the coffee:furious:


----------



## cazna

Sweet work man, You guys get some really high stuff, Nasty critical light to deal with as well, Thanks for the pics, Wish i could join you and do a place like that, Im still surprised your double run the 10 box after the tape does not give you shrinkage issues. Want brand of boxes do you run just out of interest, Are they Northstars??


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Sweet work man, You guys get some really high stuff, Nasty critical light to deal with as well, Thanks for the pics, Wish i could join you and do a place like that, Im still surprised your double run the 10 box after the tape does not give you shrinkage issues. Want brand of boxes do you run just out of interest, Are they Northstars??


Yes North Stars

Everyone goes blah blah blah not for me about the double box run. But in a nut shell, your just running the box, wait for it to shrink a bit, then run it again , well it's still wet.

We only use all purpose mud all the time, they always supply us heat. You can see the one heater in the picture taken from the Kitchen, a long with a bag of sheet rock:whistling2:. But we had to build out a bad spot on the cathedral on the left side. That's what the dark pic was suppose to show, the build out. So hence, the sheet rock


----------



## Kiwiman

Wow, imagine heating that sucker.


----------



## gazman

Can you get away with your electrical gear like that? All of our tools and leads have to be tested and taged, and those power boards are banned. The only ones that we are allowed to have each outlet has to be individualy switched and it has to have an earth leakage switch.


----------



## VANMAN

2buckcanuck said:


> Just thought I'd throw in these pics too
> 
> 1st one the pic did not turn out, but it does show critical lighting on the walls
> 
> 2nd pic different shot of the garage
> 
> 3rd pic is a scaffold set up I built in a stairwell, holds a fat guy really well:whistling2:
> 
> 4th pic is my new coffee maker, which might become a bucket heater if 2bjr don't start making the coffee:furious:


 Nice work 2Buck:thumbsup: Pitty sanding is on the cards but Jnr will like it up there:blink:
The 12 box looks better:whistling2:


----------



## moore

I need a 2buckjr.. 

Nice work 2 buck:thumbsup:..


----------



## VANMAN

moore said:


> I need a 2buckjr..
> 
> Nice work 2 buck.


I have 1 of them :thumbup: I call him Donkey:whistling2:
He is hard at it today as i sit here drinkin beer and postin stuff on here:thumbsup:


----------



## gotmud

Really nice work 2buck and jr. too! Thanks for the pics :thumbup:


----------



## moore

2buck ..why couldn't the gibbers give you a full board above that picture window? Then you wouldn't have to worry about that butt.Don't get mad ,,just saying looks like a 12' would have worked ..but then ..Like some hangers the easy way out Is the fastest way out..


again..looks great ,, no mud on the floor at the bottom of the bead ???
How TF do you do that running a trowel ...?:blink:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> 2buck ..why couldn't the gibbers give you a full board above that picture window? Then you wouldn't have to worry about that butt.Don't get mad ,,just saying looks like a 12' would have worked ..but then ..Like some hangers the easy way out Is the fastest way out..
> 
> 
> again..looks great ,, no mud on the floor at the bottom of the bead ???
> How TF do you do that running a trowel ...?:blink:


I'm not going to complain to the rocker when it comes to high stuff, and to be honest, our rockers are really good. Most of them are Croatian, Serbian or Bosnian who came from the wars over there in Yugoslavia. Lets just say I call them SIR when ever I see them. We joke that they were born with a hatchet hammer in their hands. So if I had to bitch about something, they missed pulling 2 drywall screws on a house that has 12,000 sq or 250 sheeps. They would beat me to death with their hatchet hammer if I bitched to them about that 

Honestly, our rockers are really good, I'm spoiled in that sense.

And for H&T, I started with the K&P, thought it was great. Then later at age 28, I worked with a guy who was H&T, He smoked me big time in speed, and I thought he was fast, Till I worked with a guy who did plaster, (the veneer stuff) He was even faster  So I was taught by some masters, I did not pick it up on my own.

And if someone works with me, beads, butts etc coated to the floor, just a rule from me. 2bjr got in heck for that angle not cleaned out at the bottom of the coffee maker pic :whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Can you get away with your electrical gear like that? All of our tools and leads have to be tested and taged, and those power boards are banned. The only ones that we are allowed to have each outlet has to be individualy switched and it has to have an earth leakage switch.










Gee, your sounding just like the builder did today

I heard on the radio the other day, that Aussie land is a bigger nanny state than Canada. but don't tell anyone but, we didn't wear our hard hats today, nor our work boots, and keep this a big secret too, we were smoking tobacco on the job, too


----------



## moore

This job was like a litter box full of cats trying not to step on the poop.
never seen so many trades on one job before.

H/O asked me '' do you think we'll be in by xmas'' 
I said '' lady you will be handing candy out at the end of the month'' .
glad It's done ..got my ink..:yes:


----------



## moore

That last pic Is MY blue ridge mountains


----------



## 2buckcanuck

I see you skimmed out the ceilings once, did you half to climb up and down, or did you have a mule push you around. A 12" box could skim those out real fast for you Moore, your feet don't even half to leave the ground. Just trying to remind you your getting older, not younger:whistling2:

Blue ridge mountains?? that sounds familiar , Is that where the Hatfield and Maccoy thing happened. Do you get to see real hill billies, like honest to god real hill billies


----------



## moore

Do you get to see real hill billies, like honest to god real hill billies

Who do you think your talking too rick. :lol::lol:


----------



## mudslingr

2buckcanuck said:


> Most of them are Croatian, Serbian or Bosnian who came from the wars over there in Yugoslavia. Lets just say I call them SIR


Wowww maan ! You just blew my miiind! How did you know?  

And it looks good 2buck ! Kinda stuff I usually see around here too.


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> no mud on the floor at the bottom of the bead ???
> How TF do you do that running a trowel ...?:blink:


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

mudslingr said:


> Wowww maan ! You just blew my miiind! How did you know?
> 
> And it looks good 2buck ! Kinda stuff I usually see around here too.


Your from Yugoslavia mudslingr  good thing I have been calling you SIR mudslingr:thumbup:

It's true though, If I said how much rock those guys can throw up in a day, no one would believe me. I know you believe me


----------



## moore

''If I said how much rock those guys can throw up in a day, no one would believe me.''

How much? 400 boards??


----------



## mudslingr

2buckcanuck said:


> Your from Yugoslavia mudslingr  good thing I have been calling you SIR mudslingr:thumbup:
> 
> It's true though, If I said how much rock those guys can throw up in a day, no one would believe me. I know you believe me


Actually, my folks were from Slovenia. One of the former Yugo's former provinces. 

Their work ethic IS one of the best I believe.:yes: Maybe it rubbed off on me.:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> ''If I said how much rock those guys can throw up in a day, no one would believe me.''
> 
> How much? 400 boards??


if 12's then 19,200 sq ft, if 8's then 12,000 sq ft


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> if 12's then 19,200 sq ft, if 8's then 12,000 sq ft


How many guys? No matter what that's a sheepload of smurfs.


----------



## mudslingr

2buckcanuck said:


> if 12's then 19,200 sq ft, if 8's then 12,000 sq ft


Good thing you're not an accountant or newspaper editor 2buck !:blink: :whistling2::jester:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

mudslingr said:


> Good thing you're not an accountant or newspaper editor 2buck !:blink: :whistling2::jester:


Well, in my defense :whistling2:

Once I did the 48 (4x12) x's the 400 sheets, and I seen the # 19,200 , I thought to myself , no way did someone do that much in one day. I was fairly sure when they talk sheets they mean 12 footers

so I just rounded the 32 x 400 number from 12,800 , b/c that number is even way out there.

So I was expecting B.S. moore, not 2buck your math sucks


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> _Last edited by moore; Today at 07:22 PM. Reason: could not say **** _


:laughing:


----------



## smisner50s

Here are some pic of a garage we hung today ..taping out tomorrow..dads crew built this one ..heat in the floor


----------



## D's

Hey Smis,

Nice garage. Don't know if you've tried the ButtBoards but on a big ceiling like that you can hang all your butts in one straight line with them. Sounds crazy I know but I called Trim-Tex and they said it was all good. Less scrap, no measuring, easier finish, & flat too!


----------



## gazman

Hey D`s. Just did the same thing using the Rebate mate.:thumbup:


----------



## smisner50s

Back blocked all my butts..nocoat l trim around the whole perrimiter and garage door openings..finish coat tomorrow..the whole garage gets a light orangepeel finish


----------



## Checkers

*Bonus, pre-sand.*



























Process:
Had a friend hang this because I was in the middle of another project.
I picked up the taping.
"V'ed Butts"
Pre-Filled with Hamiltons 90 minute
Screwed Clinch-On bead On
Taped with Northstar bazooka and paper tape, also taped all metal.
Rolled and glazed with Northstar roller and 2" angle head because my 3" is broken.
Spotted screws first time with hot mud for minimal shrinkage.
Laser applied all Strait-Flex with Hamiltons 90 minute and striped it with a 6" as I applied.


First coat with a Northstar 8" Fat Boy box set on #5 because my boxes run a little heavy, USG Plus 3 on everything.
Split butts.
Coated screws with 6" knife.
Ran one side of the Strait-Flex a full 6" out.
Ran metal with 8" knife.


2nd coat with a Northstar 12" Fat boy set on #5 again, perfectly flat. All 2nd coat done with Plus 3.
Ran butts down the middle.
Striped screws with 6" knife.
Ran other side of Strait-Flex 6" out.
Ran metal with a 10" knife.
Ran angles with a Northstar 7" box with Premier(?) borrowed 3" angle head that I did not like.

Touched up all box work, re-picked some angles, and pulled a tight skim on all butts by hand with a 14" knife to get rid of any machine marks.

Sanded with a Radius 360, 220 grit and a sanding sponge on the angles because it was so small with so many off angles.

Used leaf blower on all boxes, sills, and base.
Swept floor.
Scraped floor.
Swept floor.
Vacuumed out all light boxes, casings, sills, and base.
Scrubbed exterior Trex stairs off with a stiff broom and I'm out of there!


----------



## chris

looks :thumbsup:sharp


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Looks good , but have 2 questions.

One is the corner bead, do you do it that way all the time, or did your friend not want to spend the extra 2bucks for the paper bead ?

And the goose neck on your pump, is that set up that way to fill your bazooka or your boxes,. Never seen one set up that way on a pump before. Just wondering


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Looks good , but have 2 questions.
> 
> One is the corner bead, do you do it that way all the time, or did your friend not want to spend the extra 2bucks for the paper bead ?
> 
> And the goose neck on your pump, is that set up that way to fill your bazooka or your boxes,. Never seen one set up that way on a pump before. Just wondering


And why did you screw the bead on? :confused1:


----------



## moore

This c/p tube is fun .I play ,,then do what I know. Really haven't had the time to give it a chance to teach ME..


----------



## 2buckcanuck

actually that works moore.

In Canuck land we could not get a bead applicator for the longest time up here, so I use to load my beads up like that. So your thinking:thumbsup:

Gee, maybe you might be scary with those tools, you might start teaching us a thing or 2 soon


----------



## Checkers

2buckcanuck said:


> Looks good , but have 2 questions.
> 
> One is the corner bead, do you do it that way all the time, or did your friend not want to spend the extra 2bucks for the paper bead ?
> 
> And the goose neck on your pump, is that set up that way to fill your bazooka or your boxes,. Never seen one set up that way on a pump before. Just wondering


My friend? Lol. I've been starting to use clinch more and more but I wanted this job to be tits because it's in an area where word of mouth is huge! So I taped the edges just to be safe. I'm telling you, the crisp, clean edge of clinch is appreciated around here.

That is not a goose neck that is a Cinta tall box filler you old man, get with the times! I've had it about 3 years now and it kicks ass!
http://www.fantastictools.com/p-1140-cinta-long-stroke-rapid-clean-pump-w-tall-box-filler.aspx
















SlimPickins said:


> And why did you screw the bead on? :confused1:


Because I can't get enough of my new Hilti cordless . Actually once again, didn't use nails because I didn't want any pops down the road. There's only a couple screws in it so the tape is mostly holding it on.


----------



## SlimPickins

Checkers said:


> Because I can't get enough of my new Hilti cordless . Actually once again, didn't use nails because I didn't want any pops down the road. There's only a couple screws in it so the tape is mostly holding it on.


Ha! I knew it!

Personally, I use staples and glass tape but I'm running hot mud on all my corners. :thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Checkers said:


> My friend? Lol. I've been starting to use clinch more and more but I wanted this job to be tits because it's in an area where word of mouth is huge! So I taped the edges just to be safe. I'm telling you, the crisp, clean edge of clinch is appreciated around here.


using metal bead and taping the edges is like wiping your arse with your hands, then cleaning them with toilet paper. Why not use the proper material right off the hop.

But since I'm old, Ive seen the horrors of crimped bead, I think it was the 1980's :whistling2:. So if your looking to build a successful DWC, which you said you wanted to do, don't cheap out.

And build your company up while your still a young buck, build up your capital also. Being the one who pays his workers on time, weather you have been paid for the job yet or not, will give you a good name


----------



## Checkers

SlimPickins said:


> Ha! I knew it!
> 
> Personally, I use staples and glass tape but I'm running hot mud on all my corners. :thumbsup:


This is the way I'm going. Just picked up a stapler and C02 tank last night.




2buckcanuck said:


> using metal bead and taping the edges is like wiping your arse with your hands, then cleaning them with toilet paper. Why not use the proper material right off the hop.
> 
> But since I'm old, Ive seen the horrors of crimped bead, I think it was the 1980's :whistling2:. So if your looking to build a successful DWC, which you said you wanted to do, don't cheap out.
> 
> And build your company up while your still a young buck, build up your capital also. Being the one who pays his workers on time, weather you have been paid for the job yet or not, will give you a good name



Once again, not cheaping out, I just need to do something different for awhile and I don't want mud all over my lasers on customs haha.

I'm straightening out my taxes for the last two years right now and paying off my last big debts and then I've got a pretty stellar business plan going into effect. It should really help me build up my capitol quick :thumbsup:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Original quote by Checkers


> I'm straightening out my taxes for the last two years


 TWO YEARS?!? What up wit dat??


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> using metal bead and taping the edges is like wiping your arse with your hands, then cleaning them with toilet paper. Why not use the proper material right off the hop.
> 
> But since I'm old, Ive seen the horrors of crimped bead, I think it was the 1980's :whistling2:. So if your looking to build a successful DWC, which you said you wanted to do, don't cheap out.
> 
> And build your company up while your still a young buck, build up your capital also. Being the one who pays his workers on time, weather you have been paid for the job yet or not, will give you a good name


Tape on corners aren't any better than metal. I've found that no matter how hard you try, they always blister somewhere. Never mind that the actual bead is so narrow if you're sheetrock is not overlapped enough you miss the corner and have to build one out of mud. And, those rollers don't guarantee that the bead is actually on straight either. I only use paper on steel, where I can't use staples effectively. It's not a matter of cheaping out, it's a matter of thinking the material sucks. I haven't tried vinyl bead on a large scale, but I can't say I'd like working with spray glue all the time :no:

As far as using a co2 for beads, I just use a compressor and air. Air is free, and I never run out of it. Staples every six inches, glass tape, hot mud with adhesive.....that sh!t ain't goin' nowhere. If you dent it, you pay me to fix it. Simple as that.


----------



## moore

I agree with Slim..If my hangers don't have the outside corners good and tight I have to pre fill before the paper face goes on .That takes away my time saved by using the paper. AND.. the framing has to be perfect for the paper face to work well. Caveman thinking,,,but IMO Nothing can sraighten out a house full of crooked outside corners like metal..No-coat comes close .. I do like how hot mud sticks to the paper face.

I used this Bammer for 3 years before It started leaking gas.
worked well..No batteries gas cartridge only .. Only problem with It was It took a beating on the shouldersinch:


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> I agree with Slim..If my hangers don't have the outside corners good and tight I have to pre fill before the paper face goes on .That takes away my time saved by using the paper. AND.. the framing has to be perfect for the paper face to work well. Caveman thinking,,,but IMO Nothing can sraighten out a house full of crooked outside corners like metal..No-coat comes close .. I do like how hot mud sticks to the paper face.
> 
> I used this Bammer for 3 years before It started leaking gas.
> worked well..No batteries gas cartridge only .. Only problem with It was It took a beating on the shouldersinch:


Yessir, in the end, someone has to do the work...with paper corners, the rocker (usually me) has to spend extra time getting the rock just right, preferably 1/8-1/4" or so from the edge of the already hung perpendicular face. With metal corners I can hang the same (regular bird-mouth) for square or bullnose so I don't have to think about how the rock goes on. And like you said, metal corners are more adjustable because you're using mechanical fasteners which will hold the metal no mater what you do to tweak it....not true with mud applied beads, which will pull free if there's too much tension. I like the hoppers you can use with paper beads, but there's a lot of leg-work involved...measure, cut, walk to hopper, walk back to location, stick bead on, grab roller and roll it, or grab pan/knife and wipe it. Metal beads I have staple gun with me, and I move the beads with me as I go (piles placed strategically throughout house. As far as glass tape goes....that takes no time at all. In the end, it all probably works out about the same for time, and I'll stand behind my process for either product....I just prefer metal having worked with both enough to know the difference. Besides, I stay nice and clean using regular metal and it's a pleasure to put on....especially when you can get it nice and tight :thumbsup:


----------



## E.K Taper

The Stairway from hell


----------



## chris

Some painted rooms,smooth as a babies butt. Deadline was Friday...shes done:thumbup:shtload of change orders tho,no more deadline just more $$$:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

Nice work Chris...it looks really sharp:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

Good job


----------



## gotmud

Very nice :thumbsup:


----------



## moore

Looks great Chris.:yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> I agree with Slim..If my hangers don't have the outside corners good and tight I have to pre fill before the paper face goes on .That takes away my time saved by using the paper. AND.. the framing has to be perfect for the paper face to work well. Caveman thinking,,,but IMO Nothing can sraighten out a house full of crooked outside corners like metal..No-coat comes close .. I do like how hot mud sticks to the paper face.
> 
> I used this Bammer for 3 years before It started leaking gas.
> worked well..No batteries gas cartridge only .. Only problem with It was It took a beating on the shoulders


I will be nice to you in this post you stubborn old mule, since you have not seen the things you can do with paper bead. I was going to post a pic of a dinosaur with your name across it's chest. But ill be nice to night 

If you want a bigger nosing on the bead, go with the B1u's, the b1w's have a smaller nosing on them (I think, might have that backwards:blink.

Any how, we use the b1u's, the metal is equal in size, while the b1w's, the one side of the metal is wider, well the other is thinner, meaning there's only one way to put the bead on, wide side on the open side of the drywall, which means you half to THINK when installing the bead, which can be a bad thing to do for some tapers (thinking that is, and 2bjr thinking is scary, so we get the b1u's:whistling2

Also, to repair or square things out with paper bead, you can't beat it, if something is out buy a inch and a half, you can fix it. Can you do that with metal ??????

how do you do that? you can stack paper bead,,,,, meaning you can put layer after layer of bead on top of each other. If something has a bow in it, put some scraps under it, till it no longer bows. To get some straight, (say crooked at top or leaning) I have put a 0ne foot piece on, then a 2 foot piece on over that, then a 3 foot piece on over that, then a 4 foot piece, then finally the full length piece.

Also, on long bulk head runs, you can install your bead, then look down the run (or use a laser if you want). You can pinch or pull on the bead to adjust it where you want. and if you run into something really bad, you do what I said above, pull the bead down and place scraps under it.

And if you do screw up, and you install your bead on crooked and the paper becomes exposed. No big deal, it's paper, just like drywall, paint it and all is good. But with metal, if it becomes exposed while sanding or something, you got to coat it.

Paper bead all the way:thumbup: (till no-coat comes down in price)


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I will be nice to you in this post you stubborn old mule, since you have not seen the things you can do with paper bead. I was going to post a pic of a dinosaur with your name across it's chest. But ill be nice to night
> 
> If you want a bigger nosing on the bead, go with the B1u's, the b1w's have a smaller nosing on them (I think, might have that backwards).
> 
> Any how, we use the b1u's, the metal is equal in size, while the b1w's, the one side of the metal is wider, well the other is thinner, meaning there's only one way to put the bead on, wide side on the open side of the drywall, which means you half to THINK when installing the bead, which can be a bad thing to do for some tapers (thinking that is, and 2bjr thinking is scary, so we get the b1u's)
> 
> Also, to repair or square things out with paper bead, you can't beat it, if something is out buy a inch and a half, you can fix it. Can you do that with metal ??????
> 
> how do you do that? you can stack paper bead,,,,, meaning you can put layer after layer of bead on top of each other. If something has a bow in it, put some scraps under it, till it no longer bows. To get some straight, (say crooked at top or leaning) I have put a 0ne foot piece on, then a 2 foot piece on over that, then a 3 foot piece on over that, then a 4 foot piece, then finally the full length piece.
> 
> Also, on long bulk head runs, you can install your bead, then look down the run (or use a laser if you want). You can pinch or pull on the bead to adjust it where you want. and if you run into something really bad, you do what I said above, pull the bead down and place scraps under it.
> 
> And if you do screw up, and you install your bead on crooked and the paper becomes exposed. No big deal, it's paper, just like drywall, paint it and all is good. But with metal, if it becomes exposed while sanding or something, you got to coat it.
> 
> Paper bead all the way:thumbup: (till no-coat comes down in price)


You can post a pic of a dinosaur with my name on its chest, I'd get a kick out of it.

If something's out 1 -1/2"....well, you certainly wouldn't catch me running to stack 12 pieces of scrap under it 

I will use paper in situations where it seems like the best/only choice, but that doesn't mean I don't think it sucks.....nor is it my preferred method.

Both styles have pros and cons.....just like anything else any of us deal with. 

Just out of curiosity....what do you use when you've got a corner that's 10-15 degrees strong or shy of 90? Do you use No-Coat on a roll for your outside corner? (yuck)

Here's something I DO like to use paper bead for.....high traffic commercial areas. Applied by hand, both sides slid with hot mud (adhesive included), and then the corner itself loaded with mud....100% solid behind the bead....that sh!t is STRONG. Blister in the paper....? No problem, good solid coat of hot mud on it, blister sands away and never comes back:thumbsup:
(Remember 2Buck...I'm not a production taper )

I had to turn down a job for a big commercial builder friend of mine the other day due to timing but he said "It's smooth, and I want it done right and have it actually look good" ..........that sure makes a guy feel good

Sorry to jump in on a post directed at you moore....I felt like babbling.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> You can post a pic of a dinosaur with my name on its chest, I'd get a kick out of it.
> 
> If something's out 1 -1/2"....well, you certainly wouldn't catch me running to stack 12 pieces of scrap under it
> 
> I will use paper in situations where it seems like the best/only choice, but that doesn't mean I don't think it sucks.....nor is it my preferred method.
> 
> Both styles have pros and cons.....just like anything else any of us deal with.
> 
> Just out of curiosity....what do you use when you've got a corner that's 10-15 degrees strong or shy of 90? Do you use No-Coat on a roll for your outside corner? (yuck)
> 
> Here's something I DO like to use paper bead for.....high traffic commercial areas. Applied by hand, both sides slid with hot mud (adhesive included), and then the corner itself loaded with mud....100% solid behind the bead....that sh!t is STRONG. Blister in the paper....? No problem, good solid coat of hot mud on it, blister sands away and never comes back:thumbsup:
> (Remember 2Buck...I'm not a production taper )
> 
> I had to turn down a job for a big commercial builder friend of mine the other day due to timing but he said "It's smooth, and I want it done right and have it actually look good" ..........that sure makes a guy feel good
> 
> Sorry to jump in on a post directed at you moore....I felt like babbling.


:whistling2::whistling2:


----------



## Kiwiman




----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> :whistling2::whistling2:


Did you put slims name accross the dinos privates like that so Nathen wouldnt can it???

Actually Speaking of the tryranno, It was it our paper a week back that they now think the tryanno could grow to weigh 9 tonnnes and could run 40kmhr, Man that would be one mean sheep eating machine, I wonder how many a 9 tonne dino could eat in a day??? It would be one giant woolly turd


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> :whistling2::whistling2:


I am truly humbled by your graphic arts skills! I'm not just a d!ck.....I'm a really really BIG d!ck!


----------



## Cratter

Ain't nothing fancy like you guys post. Steel building. Its a guys "Super Garage" where he is going to store all his fancy cars with a "man cave" loft.










Poor lighting. Hung, taped, textured, and painted.

















Those compressors are heavy, I'm glad I didn't have to lug it up and down the stairs. Poor mans elevator.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

That looks good cratter, looks like everything is built out to it's proper size, and looks like you got those miters looking good on the bullnose:thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Drywall

2buckcanuck said:


> while,since everyone is posting pics,here's the job I'm on .Took daughter in to single spot the screws .She's the one that owns the camera, that she won't let me use .
> It's around 7,000 sq,working by myself, kid in hospital .started Friday ,should be done Wednesday .
> Another weekend stuck working :furious:


 See that pump bucket on a scafold. Typical taper with a bad back, i can relate.


----------



## moore

for now on.. 325 no-coat. The 450 is too much work.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> for now on.. 325 no-coat. The 450 is too much work.


 looks good Moore,,,,, I see your floor scraper in the pic,,, i think that if you try running that 450 with a knife instead of that floor scraper,,, it may be abit easier,,,,,:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

I like Moore's avatar picture better, Looks like he's the 1st one to post a scary Halloween picture









Yes the 325 is easier, one thing we have been experimenting with is adding some white glue with the mud. To see how well it worked, we put some sample pieces on a scrap piece of rock, one with glue added, well the other with just AP mud. Makes a difference we found. I blame my strange thinking on DWT. and being to cheap to get some Mud Max

Just giving you some food for thought Moore


----------



## moore

'''white glue with the mud''

Elmers??:blink:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> '''white glue with the mud''
> 
> Elmers??:blink:


Straight-flex makes a white glue to add to mud to make it stick,,,, that might be what 2$ is talking about. However,, it is elmers,,, smells just like it too.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> '''white glue with the mud''
> 
> Elmers??:blink:


yep, elmers

To be honest, just going to get some Mud max, Think our supply house is selling it now. So till I get there.......

But think about it Moore, Mud is just a glue, if it were not, then it would not stick to the wall

I'm not going nuts and throwing glue in everything, but for the no-coat, why not. Think if your the only taper in your hood where the no-coat is not popping off, think of the extra work you will get:thumbup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> yep, elmers
> 
> To be honest, just going to get some Mud max, Think our supply house is selling it now. So till I get there.......
> 
> But think about it Moore, Mud is just a glue, if it were not, then it would not stick to the wall
> 
> I'm not going nuts and throwing glue in everything, but for the no-coat, why not. Think if your the only taper in your hood where the no-coat is not popping off, think of the extra work you will get:thumbup:


 
Thats like being the only guy thats bedding butts with a 10" er,,,:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Straight-flex makes a white glue to add to mud to make it stick,,,, that might be what 2$ is talking about. However,, it is elmers,,, smells just like it too.


That's my thoughts too, but you got to try the Mad max once. We found the mud goes lumpy or yukky after a few days of sitting in a bucket. So we only mix up the amount of mud needed to do what task were doing. So we were wondering if Mad max does the same. (goes yukky) if it does, then no sense purchasing it , just get white glue instead.

Plus if any one tries it, and you get a blob on the wall, scrap it off right away. If not and it dries, it will take the paper off the rock when you scrap it.

It sticks good:yes:


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> yep, elmers
> 
> To be honest, just going to get some Mud max, Think our supply house is selling it now. So till I get there.......
> 
> But think about it Moore, Mud is just a glue, if it were not, then it would not stick to the wall
> 
> I'm not going nuts and throwing glue in everything, but for the no-coat, why not. Think if your the only taper in your hood where the no-coat is not popping off, think of the extra work you will get:thumbup:


HEY!! I'll try It ! BUT,,,,,when those trusses do there thing no clue known to man can keep the tape from popping loose....but I'll try the glue tomorrow ...:yes: got a few knee walls to no-coat.


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

2buckcanuck said:


> That's my thoughts too, but you got to try the Mad max once. We found the mud goes lumpy or yukky after a few days of sitting in a bucket. So we only mix up the amount of mud needed to do what task were doing. So we were wondering if Mad max does the same. (goes yukky) if it does, then no sense purchasing it , just get white glue instead.
> 
> Plus if any one tries it, and you get a blob on the wall, scrap it off right away. If not and it dries, it will take the paper off the rock when you scrap it.
> 
> It sticks good:yes:


I used Mudd Maxx it smells like elmers glue as well. Don't remember if it lumped up after a few days. It stuck to tubs like a [email protected]


----------



## Cratter

2buckcanuck said:


> That looks good cratter, looks like everything is built out to it's proper size, and looks like you got those miters looking good on the bullnose:thumbsup:


Yeah those miters sucked. Them being "off angle" and with miters on both sides. Took me a lot longer than I would have thought. 

I eventually just pieced them together. Small miter piece on top and bottom with a piece in the middle. 3 seperate pieces on four foot stick of bead. :blink: I just coat the splices. Thanks to the texture you can't see them. 

Just like my rocking. Throw that sh*t up. I can easily fix it later rather than having to cut it three times.


----------



## SlimPickins

I'm bringing my camera with me tomorrow, even though the job is only half hung. But I will show you this.....those black spots on the window are flies! It's like a f*%$ing plague. Someone vacuums them up 2-3 times a day too

This job is an airtight drywall assembly, and let me tell you right now....bid high if you get one.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I'm bringing my camera with me tomorrow, even though the job is only half hung. But I will show you this.....those black spots on the window are flies! It's like a f*%$ing plague. Someone vacuums them up 2-3 times a day too
> 
> This job is an airtight drywall assembly, and let me tell you right now....bid high if you get one.


maybe you should take a shower and wear deodorant, that might help you with the flies bugging you:whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> maybe you should take a shower and wear deodorant, that might help you with the flies bugging you:whistling2:


:laughing: Holy sh!t! I never thought of that. DOH! Maybe that's why my wife is "avoiding" me lately as well :confused1:


----------



## chris

2buckcanuck said:


> maybe you should take a shower and wear deodorant, that might help you with the flies bugging you:whistling2:


 make sure to dump the flies outside (after vacuuming) if you dont they will warm back to life and crawl out hose and be swarming around before you know it


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> for now on.. 325 no-coat. The 450 is too much work.


Try a 6" knife moore. It REALLY is easier,quicker and a lot less mud.

Looks great though !:thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

SlimPickins said:


> I'm bringing my camera with me tomorrow, even though the job is only half hung. But I will show you this.....those black spots on the window are flies! It's like a f*%$ing plague. Someone vacuums them up 2-3 times a day too
> 
> This job is an airtight drywall assembly, and let me tell you right now....bid high if you get one.


Wow ! Looks like a horror movie location.


----------



## Kiwiman

SlimPickins said:


> I'm bringing my camera with me tomorrow, even though the job is only half hung. But I will show you this.....those black spots on the window are flies! It's like a f*%$ing plague. Someone vacuums them up 2-3 times a day too
> 
> This job is an airtight drywall assembly, and let me tell you right now....bid high if you get one.


We get them here (usually in the country closer to the mountains), they are called "cluster flies", they hatch out of turfed ground which if it's a lawn it can be treated, but if the house is on a farm then it's too big of an area to treat, they are a pain in the rectum when boxing ceilings, the dopey buggers end up getting boxed into the seam.


----------



## E.K Taper

moore said:


> for now on.. 325 no-coat. The 450 is too much work.


 Very sharp Mr Moore, sir! Lookin good.:thumbsup:
You using the boxes now then?


----------



## moore

E.K Taper said:


> Very sharp Mr Moore, sir! Lookin good.:thumbsup:
> You using the boxes now then?


No ..EK that's a hand finish .


----------



## SlimPickins

Kiwiman said:


> We get them here (usually in the country closer to the mountains), they are called "cluster flies", they hatch out of turfed ground which if it's a lawn it can be treated, but if the house is on a farm then it's too big of an area to treat, they are a pain in the rectum when boxing ceilings, the dopey buggers end up getting boxed into the seam.


Oh boy....there's miles of grass-land around this puppy. Builder says he's going to bug bomb this weekend:thumbsup: It was warmer out today and they were horrendous.


----------



## moore

Hung this one myself. [me and tuco] This place was in the sticks h/o bought this old farmhouse on 90 acres for $90,000 ..he stole It..The pics are the addition ..He wants me back In a few months to repair the old part that was remodeled in 1980 ..rough!!


----------



## gazman

Looks good Moore as usual. You NEED a Rebate Mate:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

Those angles in bonus are a pain sometimes, nice work:thumbsup:. Is that your heater in pic ? We have one similar.


----------



## mudslingr

Another nice one moore ! :thumbsup:


----------



## moore

chris said:


> Those angles in bonus are a pain sometimes, nice work:thumbsup:. Is that your heater in pic ? We have one similar.


yeah chris ..I have 2 reddy heaters 150 btu looking to buy a master heater 165 for this coming winter ..the masters are the best IMO..I hate the winter ..I'm sitting here now while it's sleeting outside


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

moore said:


> Hung this one myself. [me and tuco] This place was in the sticks h/o bought this old farmhouse on 90 acres for $90,000 ..he stole It..The pics are the addition ..He wants me back In a few months to repair the old part that was remodeled in 1980 ..rough!!


90 acres for 90,000? Even if it were without a house, holy crap is all I can say. 
Nice work Mr. Moore.


----------



## moore

Here's a closet for ya


----------



## gazman

moore said:


> yeah chris ..I have 2 reddy heaters 150 btu looking to buy a master heater 165 for this coming winter ..the masters are the best IMO..I hate the winter ..I'm sitting here now while it's sleeting outside


Hey Moore come to the land of OZ it is starting to warm up nicley at the moment:thumbup:


----------



## E.K Taper

moore said:


> No ..EK that's a hand finish .


Well get boxing then boy!!!!!!!! It will look even sharper


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> Hey Moore come to the land of OZ it is starting to warm up nicley at the moment:thumbup:


Come on man ....Don't rub It in..


----------



## gotmud

moore said:


> Here's a closet for ya


 Jeeze Moore even your closets are top notch ! I think your hands ARE machines 
:thumbsup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

Ya know Moore,, if you keep using that pro-form black lid,,,,,, your GONNA have to get ya a PC,,,, dern if it ain't the hardest sanding mud they make,,,, next to brown-bag that is !!!!!:yes:


----------



## moore

gotmud said:


> Jeeze Moore even your closets are top notch ! I think your hands ARE machines
> :thumbsup:


MY hands are a mess ...I need new ones.. But then.. maybe I like the pain..Hand finish..machine finish....They both hurt ..but we chose this career ..right?? .... THANK YOU gotmud..


----------



## moore

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Ya know Moore,, if you keep using that pro-form black lid,,,,,, your GONNA have to get ya a PC,,,, dern if it ain't the hardest sanding mud they make,,,, next to brown-bag that is !!!!!:yes:


YA right about that ..it's like f/n cement ..Been sanding today and can only see out of one eye the other is glued shut.. The other mud here i can use Is the USG a/p [gray] It never dries...NEVER!!!!


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> YA right about that ..it's like f/n cement ..Been sanding today and can only see out of one eye the other is glued shut.. The other mud here i can use Is the USG a/p [gray] It never dries...NEVER!!!!


 Really? ya don't like USG ???? 
I prefer it to the black lid. But then again,, I play a banjo,,,, so I may be confused!!!!:yes:


----------



## moore

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Really? ya don't like USG ????
> I prefer it to the black lid. But then again,, I play a banjo,,,, so I may be confused!!!!:yes:


but do you git the same USG as I ?? mine comes from Baltimore .


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> but do you git the same USG as I ??


 Probbly, wer'e only a skip an a jump away,,,, we get regular usg and usg advanced formula. I'm not even going into the 5 differant types of green lid USG I've seen,,, another day:whistling2:


----------



## moore

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Probbly, wer'e only a skip an a jump away,,,, we get regular usg and usg advanced formula. I'm not even going into the 5 differant types of green lid USG I've seen,,, another day:whistling2:


Years ago there was green top /black top ..The rock was gold bond or USG.. now ..who knows what 's gonna show up ..There's alot of junk out there . I like the way it use to be..


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> Years ago there was green top /black top ..The rock was gold bond or USG.. now ..who knows what 's gonna show up ..There's alot of junk out there . I like the way it use to be..


 Moore,,,, don't go talking about years ago to an old fart !!!!!!!!! LOL

I bet you don't even know about the types of mud that ain't still around,,,(maybe you do tho)

But anyway,,,, how in the heck did you get more post than I have on this forum???????,,,,LOL,,, I thought you were a newcomer:thumbsup:

I guess i need to pay a little bit more attention!!!!!!


----------



## VANMAN

Kiwiman said:


> Oh thats bloody good of you Gaz :thumbsup: hold that thought I may take you up on that offer, I just had an idea on how to modify another gizmo I've got, but not sure yet if it will fit 90mm stuff, I'll let you know, Thanks again neighbor:thumbsup:


 Have a look at this Mitre box! its all i use over here and its the best i have found:thumbsup: Google FB13 coving mitre box u should find it! If need b i can send it,it does 22.5 angles 2:thumbup:


----------



## Kiwiman

VANMAN said:


> Have a look at this Mitre box! its all i use over here and its the best i have found:thumbsup: Google FB13 coving mitre box u should find it! If need b i can send it,it does 22.5 angles 2:thumbup:


Cheers Vanman thats bloody good of you to offer, they are bigger than I would ever need though, I don't use any larger than 90mm, Gaz already gave me a link to an ideal one but I forgot to do anything about it coz I don't use the 90mm very often. (thanks for reminding me).


----------



## chris

*Some recent jobs*

Highway District job ,lil guest house above a garage.preschool (painted pic) NEED HELP


----------



## moore

Is that jumbo 150 a freakin heater?:blink:


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Is that jumbo 150 a freakin heater?:blink:


 Yes. Hotter than hell. Contractor provided:thumbsup:


----------



## moore

chris said:


> Yes. Hotter than hell. Contractor provided:thumbsup:


BAD ASS!!!:yes:


----------



## moore

Another cracker box . 200 FT of bead 8 closets 11ft ceiling in garage .


----------



## chris

does that ceiling have a tex?? Paint? Looks good :thumbsup:


----------



## chris

1rst coat at Highway District...so much stuff in the way:furious: Headed up North to start another this morning. Any decent tapers around here want a job? Over 3000 sheets to finish by Christmas:blink4 different jobs) and a load of littler jobs....here we go again


----------



## moore

chris said:


> does that ceiling have a tex?? Paint? Looks good :thumbsup:


Hand stipple .By my self!! roll stomp.roll stomp ...I never got off the scaffold .. Can I come to I dee ho ,,and you teach me your texture ? It looks a bit easier on the body..and i love that look.. I Think I could really sell It here.:thumbsup:


----------



## Checkers

I'd come down to help for a few weeks if I'm slow Chris! I'm booked up for 4-6 weeks though. PM me your number in case something falls through though!


----------



## moore

That ceiling whipped my a$$.


----------



## smisner50s

have not been doing much drywall lately been busy doing some major work ....Inside 13 foot ceilings


----------



## cazna

That looks great smis, Big job, I like the weatherboard look :thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

cazna said:


> That looks great smis, Big job, I like the weatherboard look :thumbsup:


 belive it or not but this one is a small one were on another house that is 5 times this one wait for those pic gonna be a bit


----------



## Final touch drywall

I haven't had much time lately to post anything lately.But I have a few folders of some jobs we have completed over the summer.Wow summers over already,damn that went fast.
This job was all white when we left.About 90% of this house was skimmed,via paint roller.So much natural light coming in it might as well be outside.

This homeowner took a year off work to watch(over look) his house being built.He was on top of every trade,except us. Builder told him he has nothing to worry about,"my drywall guy loves his job".Homeowner says "it shows".He actually didn't want us to leave.LOL


----------



## cazna

Looks great FTD, Just wondering how many coats with the paint roller you give it for a skim, One or two?? I do two for coverage and so i dont bust through it when sanding, Can you get away with one??


----------



## SlimPickins

cazna said:


> Looks great FTD, Just wondering how many coats with the paint roller you give it for a skim, One or two?? I do two for coverage and so i dont bust through it when sanding, Can you get away with one??


Why are you worried about busting through when sanding? You've done the part you need to, by filling the "texture" of the face paper....or is it about absorbency instead? I've found one coat to be sufficient. The sanding done over a L5 skim shouldn't be more than a light breeze anyway...unless you're waiting until after squeegee coat to do your joint sanding?


----------



## moore

Same here..One coat. Seems pointless thou.. Why mud the entire sheet when a good painter / primer will serve the same purpose. I will do the roller thing on ceilings ,,but not the walls ,,unless they want to pay for it.

Do you guys mud the entire area ..seams ,butts and all. Or just the bare board showing??


----------



## cazna

moore said:


> Same here..One coat. Seems pointless thou.. Why mud the entire sheet when a good painter / primer will serve the same purpose. I will do the roller thing on ceilings ,,but not the walls ,,unless they want to pay for it.
> 
> Do you guys mud the entire area ..seams ,butts and all. Or just the bare board showing??


Ive only done it a few times, One coat didnt seem enough and i didnt want to risk anything so did it twice, The second coat really made a differance but i was wondering if its over kill, Rolling and troweling can be a bit thin in some areas.

Yes i did the whole area, twice.


----------



## Checkers

Ugh, skim coating is useless if you have a good painter.


----------



## Final touch drywall

Checkers said:


> Ugh, skim coating is useless if you have a good painter.


 Put semi gloss bright white on a un skimed wall that has been preped by the best & it will make him look like the worst.You have to make it all 1 level.



> Same here..One coat. Seems pointless thou.. Why mud the entire sheet when a good painter / primer will serve the same purpose. I will do the roller thing on ceilings ,,but not the walls ,,unless they want to pay for it.
> 
> Do you guys mud the entire area ..seams ,butts and all. Or just the bare board showing??


When using flat finish you are correct.Any paint with a sheen will show with that much light.This homeowner actually thought the job looked better than venetian plaster.He actually wanted to leave it.I told him hes nuts.
Corner to corner moore,always going with the screws & butts.:thumbsup:


> The sanding done over a L5 skim shouldn't be more than a light breeze anyway...unless you're waiting until after squeegee coat to do your joint sanding?


Exactly slim,Everything is sanded prior to rolling on for skim.That's why we leave the final brush down for the painter.



> Looks great FTD, Just wondering how many coats with the paint roller you give it for a skim, One or two?? I do two for coverage and so i dont bust through it when sanding, Can you get away with one??


Thanks cazna. 1 coat with semi thick mud,i never water down my compounds,ever. You let the roller guy get a wall ahead of you before you start your wipe down,it gives the mud a chance to "set" up sorta,leaving a nice base coat.


----------



## moore

That's why we leave the final brush down for the painter.
i never water down my compounds,ever.




How do you use a roller without thinning down the mud?:blink:
Sanding lap marks is not the painters job. wipe down a heavy roll on will leave heavy lap marks . :blink:


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> Same here..One coat. Seems pointless thou.. Why mud the entire sheet when a good painter / primer will serve the same purpose. I will do the roller thing on ceilings ,,but not the walls ,,unless they want to pay for it.
> 
> Do you guys mud the entire area ..seams ,butts and all. Or just the bare board showing??


I've seen some spray on L5 that was pretty damn smooth, PrepCoat Plus is the only one I've seen in action. If you sand it after spray (no back roll) it's rather delicious. It's not just a blow and go though....gotta be good with the gun.

We rolled everything (seams, butts and all)...you don't want to have edges in your finish mud, it's best to just do all of it.


Now FTD......as for this no-thinning-the-mud business.....what mud are you using? I'd like to see you try that with Beadex box-muds. And yeah, how the hell do you roll on mud straight out of the box???


----------



## AuthenticDrywall

work looks good guys y not hand tape im just as fast and its better qaulity


----------



## Checkers

AuthenticDrywall said:


> work looks good guys y not hand tape im just as fast and its better qaulity


Lord, here we go again.


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> That's why we leave the final brush down for the painter.
> i never water down my compounds,ever.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you use a roller without thinning down the mud?:blink:
> Sanding lap marks is not the painters job. wipe down a heavy roll on will leave heavy lap marks . :blink:


.OK Sorry,when I meant not water it down I meant to say, its not piss,its thick,but yes some water is added. Lap marks,whats that???Not if you know how to wipe out.


----------



## Final touch drywall

AuthenticDrywall said:


> work looks good guys y not hand tape im just as fast and its better qaulity


 Welcome aboard..Our work is all done by hand.:thumbsup: I agree with everything you said,but it is highly frowned upon around here.


----------



## Mudshark

Final touch drywall said:


> Welcome aboard..Our work is all done by hand.:thumbsup: I agree with everything you said,but it is highly frowned upon around here.


 I dont know if it is that frowned on Final Touch. Whatever works for you and still gets the job done is fine. Some of us have embraced the automatic tools to make it faster or easier. If you can still "git er done" by hand then good on ya. Probably some that never learned to do it by hand but learned the boxes etc are at a disadvantage if they were to ever try to do it by hand. I have watched some hawk and trowel guys that are so good at it that it is a toss up as to which is better. Not all of us have that great of talent but can use the automatic tools pretty well though.

Whatever floats your boat!


----------



## Checkers

Machine and hand finishing both result in a perfect finish, but please, don't offend me and say you're just as fast by hand as we are by machine.


I do enjoy me some hand taping though!


----------



## moore

AuthenticDrywall said:


> work looks good guys y not hand tape im just as fast and its better qaulity


Don't knock em till ya tried em..


----------



## SlimPickins

AuthenticDrywall said:


> y not hand tape im just as fast and its better qaulity


You must be the world's bestest and fasterest drywaller type guy!


----------



## Checkers

moore said:


> Don't knock em till ya tried em..


And this is coming from Moore, Hand Finisher Extraordinaire!


----------



## moore

Checkers said:


> And this is coming from Moore, Hand Finisher Extraordinaire!


Thank you! I think:blink:


----------



## smisner50s

Some archways i framed up on this remodel job


----------



## cdwoodcox

looks good. Does the Guy with the Bluetooth in the fourth pic walk around seemingly talking to himself all day.


----------



## smisner50s

cdwoodcox said:


> looks good. Does the guy with the bluetooth in the fourth pic walk around seemingly talking to himself all day.


 not a blue tooth.thats a carpenters pencile


----------



## moore

Good to see those rat runners smisner .


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> good to see those rat runners smisner .


 and there on layout


----------



## cdwoodcox

smisner50s said:


> not a blue tooth.thats a carpenters pencile


Funny before it looked exactly like a Bluetooth. Now it looks exactly like a carpenters pencil


----------



## moore

Out of square would be an understatement .. :whistling2:
425' of bead. My Dad finished out the upstairs .
Home owners were super cool...Couldn't ask for better people to work for.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Out of square would be an understatement .. :whistling2:
> 425' of bead. My Dad finished out the upstairs .
> Home owners were super cool...Couldn't ask for better people to work for.


So who finished first,,,, you or your dad:whistling2:


----------



## moore

The old man finished up first..He had less rock up there ,,but the same amount of bead. He asked me why I take my bead to the floor..YA never did that when you worked for me...:blink:


----------



## saskataper

My dad and his buddy just finished this house they built on spec, its 1800' over 2, sold before it was finished for over 500k. I taped it in the spring and it was one of my first houses on my own, just my luck that they wanted flat ceilings. The shelves in the bulkhead are plywood I had to use glue and staples to get the straight flex I used for square bead on the bottom of the bulkhead then trim it away around the shelves, lots of fun.


----------



## saskataper

I asked my dads buddy if there were any issues like cracking and what not, he said not that he noticed. I went upstairs and saw this happening on several of the top angles of the interior walls, some worse than others, the trusses are lifting and pulling the drywall away from the tapes. 
Any ideas on how to fix this? 
Oh and the new owners move in this weekend.


----------



## chris

saskataper said:


> I asked my dads buddy if there were any issues like cracking and what not, he said not that he noticed. I went upstairs and saw this happening on several of the top angles of the interior walls, some worse than others, the trusses are lifting and pulling the drywall away from the tapes.
> Any ideas on how to fix this?
> Oh and the new owners move in this weekend.


 crown moulding,or cutout and retape a few more times


----------



## saskataper

Yeah that's basically what I said. I told them on the next house which is a duplex that's over 2000' a side that they should tell the boarders to keep the screws about a foot from the perimeter on the ceiling


----------



## moore

saskataper said:


> I asked my dads buddy if there were any issues like cracking and what not, he said not that he noticed. I went upstairs and saw this happening on several of the top angles of the interior walls, some worse than others, the trusses are lifting and pulling the drywall away from the tapes.
> Any ideas on how to fix this?
> Oh and the new owners move in this weekend.


 The trusses need to be properly braced or this problem will never end..
If all trusses are braced to where if one wants to walk they all have to walk...the wont walk anymore.. 

Walkin trusses lift in the winter-fall in the summer..
I've seen them pull the interior walls up from the sub floor.. 

I use a hanging crew that were taught not to screw the perimeter of any ceiling ,,inside or outside walls , I see the point,,,but that's a whole lot of floating!! Don't use these guys very often ,they sometimes forget that folks need receptacles...and poop fans..


----------



## 2buckcanuck

saskataper said:


> I asked my dads buddy if there were any issues like cracking and what not, he said not that he noticed. I went upstairs and saw this happening on several of the top angles of the interior walls, some worse than others, the trusses are lifting and pulling the drywall away from the tapes.
> Any ideas on how to fix this?
> Oh and the new owners move in this weekend.


What goes up, must come down

I think/find most builders wait one full year before fixing the truss lift if any. Right now, your truss lift could be still rising, coming back down, or staying where it is. I don't think I half to explain how you fix it, but..... if you fix it now, you might end up doing it again this spring. Best to let the the house go through the 4 seasons 1st


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> What goes up, must come down
> 
> I think/find most builders wait one full year before fixing the truss lift if any. Right now, your truss lift could be still rising, coming back down, or staying where it is. I don't think I half to explain how you fix it, but..... if you fix it now, you might end up doing it again this spring. Best to let the the house go through the 4 seasons 1st[/quote
> 
> 
> wood sucks..


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I think/find most builders wait one full year before fixing the truss lift if any.


:yes:

I went into a house once where truss-uplift was causing a 3/4 inch gap, told the folks to wait a couple of months (house was 3 months old). Came back, no gaps anywhere

There ain't much that can stop wood compression/expansion.


----------



## moore

IT don't just go away after 1 year:whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> IT don't just go away after 1 year:whistling2:


No, it doesn't....but to see ZERO evidence 3 months later is unreal. I knew what I was looking for, and I couldn't see NUTTIN. Not even a hint.


----------



## moore

sorry slim i was not referring to your post..3 months is jack.... go back 2 years from now... there will still be uplift..you couldn't see nuttin cause it had closed up .... It WILL open up again...Just because a h/o don't complain does not mean there not complaining ..


----------



## Checkers

moore said:


> sorry slim i was not referring to your post..3 months is jack.... go back 2 years from now... there will still be uplift..you couldn't see nuttin cause it had closed up .... It WILL open up again...Just because a h/o don't complain does not mean there not complaining ..



Moore, you should tape for Mike Holmes.


----------



## moore

Checkers said:


> Moore, you should tape for Mike Holmes.


who dat?


----------



## saskataper

2buckcanuck said:


> What goes up, must come down
> 
> I think/find most builders wait one full year before fixing the truss lift if any. Right now, your truss lift could be still rising, coming back down, or staying where it is. I don't think I half to explain how you fix it, but..... if you fix it now, you might end up doing it again this spring. Best to let the the house go through the 4 seasons 1st


Yeah that's there plan right now, just give it some time


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

I have a strange way of looking at truss up-lift. I tell em,, I am the drywaller,,,, I didn't design it, or frame it. I hang and finish it as it is presented to me. IF you are concerned about truss up-lift,,, you need to address that before I get here!!!!!!!!! Trust me,,,,drywall AIN"T gonna fix it!!!!

Of course they are never satisfied with this!!!!!!!! They want me to use somekind of miracle mud that will GLUE the trusses down to the wall!!!!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I have a strange way of looking at truss up-lift. I tell em,, I am the drywaller,,,, I didn't design it, or frame it. I hang and finish it as it is presented to me. IF you are concerned about truss up-lift,,, you need to address that before I get here!!!!!!!!! Trust me,,,,drywall AIN"T gonna fix it!!!!
> 
> Of course they are never satisfied with this!!!!!!!! They want me to use somekind of miracle mud that will GLUE the trusses down to the wall!!!!


PART!!! of the solution to truss lift is how it's drywalled though..... smack


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> PART!!! of the solution to truss lift is how it's drywalled though..... smack


YES,and,NO.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> YES,and,NO.


My point is, it takes the combination of all involved, from the designer, framer, and rocker.

Up here in the great white North, Truss lift was !!!!! a huge problem, b/c of our extreme temperature changes in the weather. So they came up with a lot of solutions towards it. I could start a whole thread on this subject, on innovations on how to prevent it.

But a large part of it, is on how the drywall is installed, and where you start and stop your runs, and where you install your fasteners.

So to me, A professional board man is always going to rock a house with truss lift in mind, and not have a sh1tty attitude about it:yes:


----------



## moore

we solved the problem here also :yes:do i really have that ****ty of a attitude ???? I'll have to work on that...


----------



## RocknRoller

Is it a flat or vaulted? Saskataper Hard to tell from picture


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> My point is, it takes the combination of all involved, from the designer, framer, and rocker.
> 
> Up here in the great white North, Truss lift was !!!!! a huge problem, b/c of our extreme temperature changes in the weather. So they came up with a lot of solutions towards it. I could start a whole thread on this subject, on innovations on how to prevent it.
> 
> But a large part of it, is on how the drywall is installed, and where you start and stop your runs, and where you install your fasteners.
> 
> So to me, A professional board man is always going to rock a house with truss lift in mind, and not have a sh1tty attitude about it:yes:


I understand what your saying and what your doing. Question is,,,are you getting extra to do it???? Or are you just giving extra cause the builder,framer and arch didn't have a clue what trusses were gonna do up there???

I don't have a ****ty attitude, I just don't do extra work for nothing,,,,,,,,

do you?????


----------



## cdwoodcox

I find it hard to believe when I get called into a house cause they have cracks and find the hangers didn't take any steps to prevent truss uplift.
We have always used drywall clips and held screws back atleast 18'' on all interior walls. no issues then.
They are a little bit more but if you explain uplift to builder and how clipping will eliminate the problem either he will pay a little more to have clips installed while hanging or he will have to pay you to come back and fix it later by cutting 2' around all interior walls clipping then refinishing.:thumbsup:


----------



## Mudshark

cdwoodcox said:


> I find it hard to believe when I get called into a house cause they have cracks and find the hangers didn't take any steps to prevent truss uplift.
> We have always used drywall clips and held screws back atleast 18'' on all interior walls. no issues then.
> They are a little bit more but if you explain uplift to builder and how clipping will eliminate the problem either he will pay a little more to have clips installed while hanging or he will have to pay you to come back and fix it later by cutting 2' around all interior walls clipping then refinishing.:thumbsup:


Could you elaborate a bit more on these please??:confused1:


----------



## saskataper

RocknRoller said:


> Is it a flat or vaulted? Saskataper Hard to tell from picture


flat


----------



## cdwoodcox

Mudshark said:


> Could you elaborate a bit more on these please??:confused1:


They fit a little tighter over drywall come in 1/2 or 5/8. They can also be used in vertical corners where you're missing a nailer on one side.
http://youtu.be/mRzhoBAMMv4


----------



## Mudshark

:thumbsup: Thanks for that effort you made cd in making and uploading that video. So it attaches to the top plate and not the truss then. Hope your son enjoyed being in a movie! 

:rockon:


----------



## cdwoodcox

Mudshark said:


> :thumbsup: Thanks for that effort you made cd in making and uploading that video. So it attaches to the top plate and not the truss then. Hope your son enjoyed being in a movie!
> 
> :rockon:


Wasn't much effort Involved mudshark. That is the good thing about smart phones press 2 buttons and videos uploaded.

Plus this is my first smartphone so it's still fun messing around with it. My wife was happy I was making a video that .... well never mind.:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I understand what your saying and what your doing. Question is,,,are you getting extra to do it???? Or are you just giving extra cause the builder,framer and arch didn't have a clue what trusses were gonna do up there???
> 
> I don't have a ****ty attitude, I just don't do extra work for nothing,,,,,,,,
> 
> do you?????


TAPER FIX !!!!!!!

Dam right I'll back any screw out, or drive any nail through if the rocker did not. Just b/c their stupid, does not mean I half to continue the trend:yes:

And do I get paid for it, well,,,,,, since everything is black and white for you, I guess this will be a bit of a grey area for you. It does give me a good name, gets me requested to do other houses for the builders. My attention to detail gets me the biggest shacks to do, and the best rockers to follow. Keeps me the number one taper in the company, which means I don't sit that much. I have the power to back charge, but I never do, I'm just too nice of a guy:whistling2:

My last side job, the builder drank a few beers with me, and thanked me for backing out the screws where there could of been truss lift. Is that black and white, getting paid in beer????,,,,, or would that be a grey area?????


----------



## Mudshark

2buckcanuck said:


> It does give me a good name, gets me requested to do other houses for the builders. My attention to detail gets me the biggest shacks to do, and the best rockers to follow. *Keeps me the number one taper in the company*, which means I don't sit that much.


Hey I thought 2buck jr was number one now. :lol::lol::lol:


----------



## Mudshark

2buckcanuck said:


> I have the power to back charge, but I never do, I'm just too nice of a guy:whistling2:


Thats a good thing - backcharging can get ugly - just hope what goes around comes around for you and they appreciate that you dont complicate the job ! :thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> Hey I thought 2buck jr was number one now. :lol::lol:


Guess he will be a few more times this year. DWC begged if we could join forces to do some big shacks together:furious:

Guess there's one thats 25,000 sq after xmas, then one that's 36,000 sq a month or so down the road, how can you say no to that:blink:

Till then, in a basement that's 5,800 sq, and start one that's over 10,000 sq on Thursday.

It's so peaceful without him, and I'm still going forward with training a new guy soon.

But tomorrows Monday, see what that brings. DWC change their minds so much


----------



## chris

cdwoodcox said:


> Wasn't much effort Involved mudshark. That is the good thing about smart phones press 2 buttons and videos uploaded.
> 
> Plus this is my first smartphone so it's still fun messing around with it. My wife was happy I was making a video that .... well never mind.:whistling2:


 I want a new phone If I get A phone for Christmas you guys will get sick of seeing my ugly ass


----------



## smisner50s

Just some framing and hanging


----------



## Mudshark

Well done Smisner


----------



## cdwoodcox

looks good. All that bead sucks to run but really looks nice when done.:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

very nice:thumbsup:


----------



## VANMAN

smisner50s said:


> Just some framing and hanging


 Nice work lad:thumbsup: But dont fancy tapin the place


----------



## MUDBONE

moore said:


> View attachment 746
> middle room/ great room.


 nice indeed,sharp and crisp, snazzy be the word!


----------



## cdwoodcox

That would be a nice job for some of trim-tex's decorative bead.


----------



## smisner50s

Just some pic of trimtex fast cap on the archways...trimtex buttboards..the turbo dustless drywall sander...bla bla bla.
Glued the fast cap than stapeled it than flat taped it ..should be good..


----------



## drywall guy158

i used that trim tex fast cap on 1 job and really liked it :thumbsup:

looks GOOD !:thumbup::yes:


----------



## smisner50s

drywall guy158 said:


> i used that trim tex fast cap on 1 job and really liked it :thumbsup:
> 
> looks GOOD !:thumbup::yes:


 yeah its pretty neat stuff


----------



## Mudshark

Lookin good Mr. Misner. Never seen that Trimtex fast cap before but would like to. A bit early to try out that turbo sander but looking forward to your rating of it. Keep up the good work!:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

Mudshark said:


> Lookin good Mr. Misner. Never seen that Trimtex fast cap before but would like to. A bit early to try out that turbo sander but looking forward to your rating of it. Keep up the good work!:thumbsup:


 well ive been using it to sand before finish coat..and the review of it looks promising


----------



## moore

Not to be a know it all,,but I noticed you rocked the inside of those arches . Theres no need to when using fast cap .Iv'e been using fast cap for the arches since it came out ..never rocked the 4 1/2

.I do the same smisner. I tape It up after applying It ,,Your the framer so your arches are good and tight I'm sure! ,,But If my arches are off abit the fast cap will give me some play to straighten em out ..That's what I like about It. ,,and It's cheap! I get 5 10' strips here for $100..well worth it.. before plastic...It was snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip..


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Not to be a know it all,,but I noticed you rocked the inside of those arches . Theres no need to when using fast cap .Iv'e been using fast cap for the arches since it came out ..never rocked the 4 1/2
> 
> .I do the same smisner. I tape It up after applying It ,,Your the framer so your arches are good and tight I'm sure! ,,But If my arches are off abit the fast cap will give me some play to straighten em out ..That's what I like about It. ,,and It's cheap! I get 5 10' strips here for $100..well worth it.. before plastic...It was snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip..


 i dident realize that it was not needed to rock the inside when i was doing so..than i got the fast cap and i was like....dumb a!# that was over kill..il know better for next time ..it is sweet stuff i like it a lot


----------



## smisner50s

i got a box of 2 18' for $50


----------



## Mudshark

smisner50s said:


> i dident realize that it was not needed to rock the inside when i was doing so..than i got the fast cap and i was like....dumb a!# that was over kill..il know better for next time ..it is sweet stuff i like it a lot


Oh well - on the positive side, it is better fire rated your way even if it was exta work.


----------



## getplastered

2buckcanuck said:


> while,since everyone is posting pics,here's the job I'm on .Took daughter in to single spot the screws .She's the one that owns the camera, that she won't let me use .
> It's around 7,000 sq,working by myself, kid in hospital .started Friday ,should be done Wednesday .
> Another weekend stuck working :furious:


Man, looks identical my job site! Same baker, same quality work! :thumbup:


----------



## getplastered

Man, I didn't realize there were 40 bloody pages in this thread...been sittin' here all afternoon looking at some sweet work by all you guys! Very nice...and trim tex just sent me an email that I'm getting my bullnose miter tool! What great customer service!

I could look at this sh*t all day....wait, I have been...

Great site you guys have here...giving tools to those that don't have them...brings a tear to my eye...I've got an inside corner applicator (goes on mud tube)(the older hard plastic one) if someone is in need of it...haven't used it in like 4 years...let me know!


----------



## smisner50s

170 .. 12 footers
40 ..8 footers
2700 ft of tape
4 buckets of proform taping mud
2 cases of drywall glue
4 boxes of trimtex backer boards
11 buckets of proform allpurpose machine grade mud
3 bottles of trimtex mud max
2 cans of trimtex spray adheasive
2 boxes of trimtex fast cap 18 foot 
1 box of sheetrock tape on bead
2 bags of 90
and some shim on a roll
there are a few more rooms not pictured
:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

:thumbsup:


----------



## moore

Sweet!!:thumbsup::yes:


----------



## chris

very nice:thumbsup:


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> Not to be a know it all,,but I noticed you rocked the inside of those arches . Theres no need to when using fast cap .Iv'e been using fast cap for the arches since it came out ..never rocked the 4 1/2
> 
> .I do the same smisner. I tape It up after applying It ,,Your the framer so your arches are good and tight I'm sure! ,,But If my arches are off abit the fast cap will give me some play to straighten em out ..That's what I like about It. ,,and It's cheap! I get 5 10' strips here for $100..well worth it.. before plastic...It was snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip,snip..


 Quick question on the fast cap.does it need to go all the way to the floor<or can it be seamed together & taped smooth???


----------



## smisner50s

Final touch drywall said:


> Quick question on the fast cap.does it need to go all the way to the floor<or can it be seamed together & taped smooth???


 it should run the whole didtance....or splice it togsther with more fast cap and a calk joint..it comes in 18 lengths for standared height arch doors....


----------



## Trim-Tex

Excellent job Smisner:thumbup:

Thanks to all of you that use our products! All 106 of us at T Tex very much appreciate you!


----------



## bevo

Hey Smisner,

thats really nice work. ive never seen so many screws and staples around the archways etc. I need to lift my game a bit I think.

Keep the the photos coming.


----------



## moore

Final touch drywall said:


> Quick question on the fast cap.does it need to go all the way to the floor<or can it be seamed together & taped smooth???


 Depends on who frames the arch..Smisner went floor to floor cause he was the framer and knew that he would be useing fast cap..[just a guess bro] If I can't go floor to floor I will stop the fas cap at the leg finish off then caulk were the fas cap meets the leg .. I've had g/c give me a half octagon ,,and say I want that arched with that plastic stuff you use:blink:.. It is best to go floor to floor IMO.. 

What's wrong FTD?? Ya having trouble with that barrel ceiling? I have worked on only 3 of those ,,but I can come up there to show ya how..lol!! where the barrel meets those arches are gonna be a b!tch ..I thought you were the float like a butterfly sting like a bee of drywall .. or were you testing me???


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> Depends on who frames the arch..Smisner went floor to floor cause he was the framer and knew that he would be useing fast cap..[just a guess bro] If I can't go floor to floor I will stop the fas cap at the leg finish off then caulk were the fas cap meets the leg .. I've had g/c give me a half octagon ,,and say I want that arched with that plastic stuff you use:blink:.. It is best to go floor to floor IMO..
> 
> What's wrong FTD?? Ya having trouble with that barrel ceiling? I have worked on only 3 of those ,,but I can come up there to show ya how..lol!! where the barrel meets those arches are gonna be a b!tch ..I thought you were the float like a butterfly sting like a bee of drywall .. or were you testing me???


there is no mother f_er gonna out drywall ftd..i needed to finish that for you moore


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> Depends on who frames the arch..Smisner went floor to floor cause he was the framer and knew that he would be useing fast cap..[just a guess bro] If I can't go floor to floor I will stop the fas cap at the leg finish off then caulk were the fas cap meets the leg .. I've had g/c give me a half octagon ,,and say I want that arched with that plastic stuff you use:blink:.. It is best to go floor to floor IMO..
> 
> What's wrong FTD?? Ya having trouble with that barrel ceiling? I have worked on only 3 of those ,,but I can come up there to show ya how..lol!! where the barrel meets those arches are gonna be a b!tch ..I thought you were the float like a butterfly sting like a bee of drywall .. or were you testing me???


pssssst the barrel ceiling is a piece of cake.lol wait & see what I have in store for monday,gonna test your skills first though.
LOL:yes:


----------



## moore

Junk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## moore

:furious:High shoulders...


----------



## mudslingr

....


----------



## moore

mudslingr said:


> ....


 you didn't have a brain fart .you were gonna throw It at me... that's cool man.. Sling away.. I have pissed off 4 local building supplies with my demands that I will only use the rock of my choice ...or I walk! The lowballers could care less what you send them ..cause they don't know any better,,or just don't care .. ????? like I wasn't poor enough before the increase ....**** !!! the wallboard manufacturers!!!! when the boom was going strong ..they made nothing???? I made wages at that time ..they made a goddam fortune !!!! and now there bitchin about deisel fuel ...****em whatever!!!!! give me a decent board to work with ...That's ALL!!!!!! i'M asking for!!!


----------



## mudslingr

LOL Actually I agree with you. I posted in the wrong place. Bad day ?


----------



## smisner50s

All sanded up .cleaned up and ready to spray tomorrow morning


----------



## smisner50s

:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

:thumbup:


----------



## smisner50s

:yes:


----------



## chris

Nice job on that arch at hallway:thumbsup: those take some talent to finish them off that good


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> Nice job on that arch at hallway:thumbsup: those take some talent to finish them off that good


 thanks chris...and yes there little tricky..but they do look good when they fade into the wall like that..


----------



## Muddauber

Dang Smis, you sanded "all" of your mud off the walls.:blink:


----------



## boco

Nice job. The arches look nice.


----------



## VANMAN

Muddauber said:


> Dang Smis, you sanded "all" of your mud off the walls.:blink:


 Less mud means flat walls:yes: Dont look right sometimes but after paint its all good:thumbup:


----------



## smisner50s

VANMAN said:


> Less mud means flat walls:yes: Dont look right sometimes but after paint its all good:thumbup:


 thats correct my friend...its all about filling in the highs and the lowes...and making it flat...and that i do well


----------



## carpentaper

hey smis are you even doing any framing anymore or have you become the finish guy. i can't imagine you have much time to do more than the board,tape,paint these days with the size and frequency of these jobs.


----------



## smisner50s

carpentaper said:


> hey smis are you even doing any framing anymore or have you become the finish guy. i can't imagine you have much time to do more than the board,tape,paint these days with the size and frequency of these jobs.


No i still frame and all the outher stuff. Im a pretty busy person..lets just say when it finally bed time i have no trouble sleeping.


----------



## Soultear

A little tin on them butts, looks good alot of time went into this and effort gets ya places. Thanks to whomever invented pot-lights should get a pat on the back.Or is it; (Whomever invented P.o{r<n should get a pat on the back?) I can't remember?!


----------



## RocknRoller

SMS has 4 bxs of butt splicers on his list and it looks like theyworkin good.
Nice job BTW :thumbup:


----------



## mudman46

2buckcanuck said:


> while,since everyone is posting pics,here's the job I'm on .Took daughter in to single spot the screws .She's the one that owns the camera, that she won't let me use .
> It's around 7,000 sq,working by myself, kid in hospital .started Friday ,should be done Wednesday .
> Another weekend stuck working :furious:


look's like nice work but by yourself.................. Skippy.. hard to find there
sometimes they help with mixing and lifting 
help's keep us going longer
sorry about your kid 
i know how that feels hope he she is ok


----------



## 2buckcanuck

mudman46 said:


> look's like nice work but by yourself.................. Skippy.. hard to find there
> sometimes they help with mixing and lifting
> help's keep us going longer
> sorry about your kid
> i know how that feels hope he she is ok


All is ok mudman, That kid is 2buckjr, My apprentice of the last 13 years (slow learner) He went out on his own a few months ago, he's ok

But thanks for your concern, and if you stick around for awhile, You will find your self learning about the other members on DWT. There is little DWT family going on here. We know who is single, whose married. how many kids a member has, birth announcements and sadly, when someone has lost a child (sorry again to that member)..... It may just be the internet world, But you sorta get a look in to others peoples lives. You even wonder why so and so hasn't posted anything in a while, and hope their ok, and are too busy working:yes:

But best of all with this site, you get to talk shop talk, and nobody tells you to shut up


----------



## Mudshark

*Shut up*

SHUT UP 2buck :w00t:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> SHUT UP 2buck :w00t:


well, since your sporting a Red Green avatar

tape it shut


----------



## smisner50s

Just finished up yesterday


----------



## smisner50s

Some more


----------



## smisner50s

and some more


----------



## 2buckcanuck

smis, your company must have a good name and reputation , you keep picking up cool stuff to do, your making me jealous, you get to do it all

Looks excellent :thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

Very nice smis ! :thumbup:

Doing it all would be cool but I hate being at one place for more than 2 weeks.


----------



## chris

very nice:thumbsup:


----------



## Mudshark

Wonderful work smisner - I see it posted in PROJECTS as well.:thumbsup:


----------



## Kiwiman

Well done smis :thumbsup:


----------



## drywall guy158

:thumbup:


----------



## getplastered

Gorgeous...:thumbup::thumbup:


----------



## chris

Couple pics of a room we textured this morning


----------



## bmitch

a couple of drywall sculptures i.ve done.


----------



## bmitch

not having much luck posting a pic


----------



## bmitch

hopefully this works


----------



## 2buckcanuck

b said:


> hopefully this works


Right click on your pic and open it with windows paint. (where it says open with)
it will open in windows paint, where it says resize. (forgot to circle it) it's at upper left, click on that
Then in red circle, change those #'s to some where from 30 to 60 (try 50, works most times)
Click the green circle, then save as, Jpeg, to any desk top folder you created

Hope that helps


----------



## D's

Hey Chris which bead do you prefer up against timberwork; tear-away or pull-away? I'm abut to do a Trim-tex order and can't decide between the two.


----------



## chris

D's said:


> Hey Chris which bead do you prefer up against timberwork; tear-away or pull-away? I'm abut to do a Trim-tex order and can't decide between the two.


 I prefer the zip style (tear away) it zips away. It is a thinner flange that tucks between rock and wood making it easier in tight spots where rock wasnt properly gapped beforehand. Sometimes the rockers will have it a bit snug and the pull away is fat and you end up trimming the rock back when installing a real er. Anyhow make sure when ordering I have the names straight.It seems I get them backwards sometimes


----------



## bmitch




----------



## bmitch

drywall fireplace,blocks are done with sheet 90 irregular surface ,then coated with durorock product(indiana limestone).mounted lights in mantel on dimmer.


----------



## bmitch

sorry about size i'll learn to make them smaller.


----------



## Trim-Tex

Looks great! Please describe in more detail:thumbup:


----------



## bmitch

the sculptures are done with 90/mud mix,kitchen spoon,water mister to move the mud around ,model up the bird to the light.scribed and sanded in details of the bird when it was completely dry.the scene was done with assortment of small drywall knives.metal bullnose,1/2 bead,drywall cove used around fireplace.


----------



## smisner50s

Some trimtex bullnose.and crownmolding...


----------



## chris

Is it just me or is everybody else starting to like Smisners colors (paint)....:thumbsup: lookin sharp


----------



## moore

b said:


>


 MITCH ..you are talented..How long did it take to perfect this ART?..that's not just drywall brother.. Thats ART..:yes: Were did you get the idea ..or.. influence to do something like this ? I can See a huge market for this :yes:


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> Is it just me or is everybody else starting to like Smisners colors (paint)....:thumbsup: lookin sharp


 Hey now...Those colors were all picked out by the 6 women who's offices i just finished up..Allthough at first i did not like the colors...but after a bit they grow on you and you start to like them..I used casmere paint from swp.it pretty nice stuff 50 bucks a gallon...there is lots of trimtex crownmolding in that place.


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> MITCH ..you are talented..How long did it take to perfect this ART?..that's not just drywall brother.. Thats ART..:yes: Were did you get the idea ..or.. influence to do something like this ? I can See a huge market for this :yes:


 The crazy part is look closer at the small horse it looks like it is moving do to the shading...really awsome work really awsome


----------



## moore

chris said:


> Is it just me or is everybody else starting to like Smisners colors (paint)....:thumbsup: lookin sharp


 Green is in these days ..no matter the shade,,,and red . master br /dining room...I've seen light gray really take off here...


I LIKE WHITE!...:thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> MITCH ..you are talented..How long did it take to perfect this ART?..that's not just drywall brother.. Thats ART..:yes: Were did you get the idea ..or.. influence to do something like this ? I can See a huge market for this :yes:


Agreed ! :thumbup: Very nice work !:yes:


----------



## drywall guy158

b said:


>


WOW !!:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

moore said:


> Green is in these days ..no matter the shade,,,and red . master br /dining room...I've seen light gray really take off here...
> 
> 
> I LIKE WHITE!...:thumbsup:


 I must say Im a big fan of the blues and greys. They are popular in the modern /contemp. look. Im seeing alot of yellows in the custom cabins. That crown really makes a difference.


----------



## getplastered

b said:


> drywall fireplace,blocks are done with sheet 90 irregular surface ,then coated with durorock product(indiana limestone).mounted lights in mantel on dimmer.


Sick man...great stuff


----------



## bmitch

moore said:


> MITCH ..you are talented..How long did it take to perfect this ART?..that's not just drywall brother.. Thats ART..:yes: Were did you get the idea ..or.. influence to do something like this ? I can See a huge market for this :yes:


by putting these pictures out there,i was thinking some of you fellas might want to try this.i started doing raised panels adjascent to windows and doors with mud.i also put impressions into the mud panels.the results were good so it evolved.inderect light is the key.as light changes so does image,pretty cool effect.theres nothing you guys can't fix with drywall mud so give it a try.


----------



## Kiwiman

b said:


> by putting these pictures out there,i was thinking some of you fellas might want to try this.i started doing raised panels adjascent to windows and doors with mud.i also put impressions into the mud panels.the results were good so it evolved.inderect light is the key.as light changes so does image,pretty cool effect.theres nothing you guys can't fix with drywall mud so give it a try.


I think you should be making moulds of your work and selling them as pre made panels, you're in the wrong job cobber, thats awesome :thumbsup:


----------



## VANMAN

b said:


> by putting these pictures out there,i was thinking some of you fellas might want to try this.i started doing raised panels adjascent to windows and doors with mud.i also put impressions into the mud panels.the results were good so it evolved.inderect light is the key.as light changes so does image,pretty cool effect.theres nothing you guys can't fix with drywall mud so give it a try.


 Sorry but u r an artist not a taper I do agree u r in the wrong job!!!


----------



## gotmud

Mitch you blew my mind! I knew this kind of stuff was possible but WOW! You sir are a artist, Thank you for sharing this with us! :thumbsup:


----------



## Jason

b said:


> drywall fireplace,blocks are done with sheet 90 irregular surface ,then coated with durorock product(indiana limestone).mounted lights in mantel on dimmer.


Whoa. Reminds me of the relief sculptures I saw in Florence, like Ghiberti's doors. In 10 lifetimes, I couldn't do that.


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

b said:


>


 b,mitch, thats absolutely incredible. Is the work completely free handed? Do you do alot of these?


----------



## cdwoodcox

A couple rooms we finished this week. 
Part of a big commercial job we have been working on. 
I posted more in the project section.


----------



## gazman

A while ago we had a thread about taping being an art form. After the posts by B,mitch we can see what real art is.:yes:


----------



## cdwoodcox

Hey Mitch nice work. 
I agree you should be focusing on selling those not taping drywall.


----------



## Philma Crevices

cdwoodcox said:


> Hey Mitch nice work.
> I agree you should be focusing on selling those not taping drywall.


 Absolutely... I could see a good market for pre-sculpted tape-in art :thumbup:


----------



## gotmud

Nice work CD :thumbsup:


----------



## nEighter

Man.. what great work guys! Hey you guys have made me want to come home and get started on my own D/W mess!  Keep the pics coming!!


----------



## Sir Mixalot

b said:


> by putting these pictures out there,i was thinking some of you fellas might want to try this.i started doing raised panels adjascent to windows and doors with mud.i also put impressions into the mud panels.the results were good so it evolved.inderect light is the key.as light changes so does image,pretty cool effect.theres nothing you guys can't fix with drywall mud so give it a try.


Your art is awesome Mitch!









I do a little textured drywall art myself:


----------



## Sir Mixalot

A couple more.


----------



## drywall guy158

that looks cool !!!:thumbsup:


----------



## Workaholic

Cool stuff Mitch and Paul. :thumbup:


----------



## bmitch

VANMAN said:


> Sorry but u r an artist not a taper I do agree u r in the wrong job!!!


thanks for the comment,the right subject,the right location(lighting,exposure),the right people to work for,i need all three or i,m not interested. i really enjoy taping and for now it,s my bread and butter.to much stress to be doing pictures everyday,it can be tough to get them just the way i want them.i,m hard to please.


----------



## bmitch

Sir Mixalot said:


> A couple more.


 the paintings look great :thumbsup: the tex plus your painting skills bring it to life.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

b said:


> thanks for the comment,the right subject,the right location(lighting,exposure),the right people to work for,i need all three or i,m not interested. i really enjoy taping and for now it,s my bread and butter.to much stress to be doing pictures everyday,it can be tough to get them just the way i want them.i,m hard to please.


Ennismore Ontario eh'







, that's cottage and camping country right









Google maps say your 4 hours and 38 minutes a way from me. I might half to come visit you this summer, next time you go to do one of those. hell, it's the first time my daughter gave anything on DWT a complement.

You should dedicate your own thread to your work, and more time to that craft and how it's done. You might half to change your handle to B,mitch rich:thumbsup:

Amazing stuff:yes:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Sir Mixalot said:


> A couple more.


WOW! Sirmixalot, a painter who can paint?!? Go figure. Are you out on the river at all hooking fish or running over manatees?. I visit Brevard County quite often. Always gotta go fish when I'm there.


----------



## Sir Mixalot

P.A. ROCKER said:


> WOW! Sirmixalot, a painter who can paint?!? Go figure. Are you out on the river at all hooking fish or running over manatees?. I visit Brevard County quite often. Always gotta go fish when I'm there.


I like my manatee with mash potatoes and gravy! :laughing:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Sir Mixalot said:


> I like my manatee with mash potatoes and gravy! :laughing:


You eat Manatee's


----------



## Sir Mixalot

2buckcanuck said:


> You eat Manatee's


No. That was a joke.:yes:
I like manatees.:thumbup: 
Some of the fishermen years ago had bumper stickers on their trucks that said " I love manatees! with mash patatoes and gravy"


----------



## bmitch

2buckcanuck said:


> Ennismore Ontario eh'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , that's cottage and camping country right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Google maps say your 4 hours and 38 minutes a way from me. I might half to come visit you this summer, next time you go to do one of those. hell, it's the first time my daughter gave anything on DWT a complement.
> 
> You should dedicate your own thread to your work, and more time to that craft and how it's done. You might half to change your handle to B,mitch rich:thumbsup:
> 
> Amazing stuff:yes:


thanks for the comment.your welcome to any jobsite i'm on.mural on my next home i start next week,big house,coffers,trays ,moldings,fireplaces.it'll be a couple of months before i get to the mural.


----------



## Muddauber

*Recent drywall Finishing*

I did this monster by myself!!


----------



## Muddauber

*Recent jobs completed*

More pics!:thumbup:


----------



## chris

Whopper:yes: looks good:thumbsup:


----------



## VANMAN

Muddauber said:


> More pics!:thumbup:


 And i thought i was in for a hard time with my next job but u can keep that 1


----------



## Mudshark

Good stuff Muddauber - looks like a lot for one guy. Sanding day must have been hell.


----------



## cazna

Dam, Look at the size of that?? Whats that area gonna be used for??


----------



## mudslingr

That's a lot of climbing and moving. Nice job Muddauber ! :thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Holy [email protected]! Thats one huge room....Allot of work in that man...
All those skylights being returned too...wow.
Goodjob buddy! Hope you charged them up the ass!


----------



## bmitch

nice work mud-dauber,thats a major for one guy.hopefully you catch a break,and get some ground work for awhile after this.


----------



## Muddauber

Sorry guys I guess I gave the impression that all of these photos are of 1 house. These are actually pics of 2 different jobs.

Yes I was paid well on both jobs. Didn't really have to bid, just turn in a #.:thumbsup:


----------



## Muddauber

cazna said:


> Dam, Look at the size of that?? Whats that area gonna be used for??


 
If you're talking about the area where the scaffold is set up, it's a combo kitchen / great room.

The owners,who live in Cali., arent even going to live there.It's just a place for them to stay when they visit their son and grand kids who live next door !


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Muddauber said:


> If you're talking about the area where the scaffold is set up, it's a combo kitchen / great room.
> 
> The owners,who live in Cali., arent even going to live there.It's just a place for them to stay when they visit their son and grand kids who live next door !


Thats insane....Friggen rich people eh!?


----------



## bmitch

this is a house i've been working on since christmas.this is the master bedroom.


----------



## mudslingr

b said:


> this is a house i've been working on since christmas.this is the master bedroom.


I like those windows ! Looks like you get some pretty nice houses to do also. Years back I had a chance to work in your area but never took the chance. With all that water around there must be some awfully nice shacks to do.


----------



## bmitch

useing photo bucket to post pics,they're either to big or to small ,can't a find a happy medium just yet.i'd like to post more pics of this house if i can get this figured out.


----------



## mudslingr

b said:


> useing photo bucket to post pics,they're either to big or to small ,can't a find a happy medium just yet.i'd like to post more pics of this house if i can get this figured out.


Here's a good simple program to resize your pics. I use it all the time.

http://pixresizer.en.softonic.com/


----------



## bmitch

people are still spending the big bucks on waterfront properties.


----------



## bmitch

thanks for the help mudslinger.i'l try to get these pics sorted out.


----------



## bmitch




----------



## bmitch




----------



## moore

NICE!:yes:


----------



## bmitch




----------



## bmitch




----------



## chris

WoW! Very nice:thumbsup:


----------



## moore

you are crazy good at your craft Mitch.. :yes: I could look at your work all day! Thanks for posting it for us to see..:thumbsup:


----------



## bmitch

last room i have to complete,beams ,molding,fireplace


----------



## gazman

The arch surround and the other moldings, were they formed on site like the rings? Or are they prefab. 

Either way very nice.:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

b said:


> last room i have to complete,beams ,molding,fireplace


High end taper are we :thumbup:

Want to install some plaster crown molding in the house I'm doing. there's going to be a lot. And the company supplying it may be looking for someone to do it, since their from Windsor.

Just think, you could visit London, can life get any more exciting than that:whistling2:


----------



## Kiwiman

I'm too embarrassed to post any pics of Kiwi homes after seeing those, incredible :thumbsup:


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> I'm too embarrassed to post any pics of Kiwi homes after seeing those, incredible :thumbsup:


Me too, Kiwis have no style, Or not enough coin to pay for the style


----------



## bmitch

gazman said:


> The arch surround and the other moldings, were they formed on site like the rings? Or are they prefab.
> 
> Either way very nice.:thumbsup:


 i do the layout,and cut the arch out of 12' sheets,then frame up and assemble.i used trim tex step and bull flex for archs. i used a canamold product (4 1/2" chair rail cut in half) for the boxs.they have a really good selection of moldings.www.canamould.ca


----------



## bmitch

2buckcanuck said:


> High end taper are we :thumbup:
> 
> Want to install some plaster crown molding in the house I'm doing. there's going to be a lot. And the company supplying it may be looking for someone to do it, since their from Windsor.
> 
> Just think, you could visit London, can life get any more exciting than that:whistling2:


 i don,t know about you but plaster molds are to tough for me to work with,do you ever use canamoulds line of moldings?foam with acrylic shell covering.that house you're doing is going to look really impressive with moldings.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Looking good 2buck! Thats some high end taping!


----------



## VANMAN

Pics of the house i am doing at the moment! Only a couple of outside i will do a vid of this place next week!! Its took more than 100 hours 2 put the tapes on and first box Then u get the joiner work:furious: This only a couple of bits i took pics off!! Yea thats mastic in the round window(well its sort of round)2fill the f*ck ups:thumbup:
This place is costing £750,000:blink:
Yea trimtex if u look at that window thats why i need ur products!!! U guys would b amazed how i do that sort of stuff!!! I will wait till u c the finished window before i tell u how i do them! No arch bead in this place.


----------



## smisner50s

Here is a house we are building now.so no drywall for me for a wile just my framing tools


----------



## chris

Nice. I like your scaff/staging. What do you call that setup?


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> Nice. I like your scaff/staging. What do you call that setup?


 the stuff in the back ..they are called pump jacks..pump up with your feet ..than just crank it to come down


----------



## Mudshark

Likewise - never seen a scaffolding setup like that before??


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Mudshark said:


> Likewise - never seen a scaffolding setup like that before??


Never seen pump jacks? That's right, you can only get them in Pa.:laughing:


----------



## smisner50s

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Never seen pump jacks? That's right, you can only get them in Pa.:laughing:


 yep only pa ahhahahahahahahahaahahhah


----------



## mudslingr

Pretty much the only kind of jacks allowed around here. Ladder jacks got outlawed a while back.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

chris said:


> Nice. I like your scaff/staging. What do you call that setup?





Mudshark said:


> Likewise - never seen a scaffolding setup like that before??


You guys never seen pump jacks before!? Really?! Hear that 2buck!?!?
Something I knew about before others did! Way out hear in Sudbury! :thumbsup: We must be expanding!


----------



## drywall guy158

smisner50s said:


> Here is a house we are building now.so no drywall for me for a wile just my framing tools


im in the same boat for now.....nice to change things up for a bit


----------



## moore

town house..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UGIhSMNlFI&feature=youtu.be


----------



## moore

Don't break the seam on some chit like that ...:furious:


----------



## justadrywallguy

A ceiling fix at the Phi Beta Pi Sorority house.


----------



## Muddauber

moore said:


> town house..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UGIhSMNlFI&feature=youtu.be


 
Looks good Moore.Would love to see you start useing tools from tape to finish.:yes:
Are you boxing the off angles?


----------



## Irishpride84

Hello guys


----------



## Irishpride84

Can some one tell me if this is working


----------



## SlimPickins

Irishpride84 said:


> Can some one tell me if this is working


No, it's not working. 

And welcome to the forum! :jester:


----------



## Irishpride84

Thank u. Still trying to understand how this site works. Thought it was live chat


----------



## moore

This g/c sold 3 specks last month . He's digging holes for 4 more..:thumbsup: Atleast I know I'll have something coming up..:sweatdrop:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUiefGD3ewU&feature=youtu.be


----------



## Kiwiman

moore said:


> This g/c sold 3 specks last month . He's digging holes for 4 more..:thumbsup: Atleast I know I'll have something coming up..:sweatdrop:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUiefGD3ewU&feature=youtu.be


Your ashtrays full :lol:


----------



## cazna

Great work once again moore, So your finishing everything by hand, You must feel hammered at the end of the day busting out wide seams like that with a trowel, If you can and get a chance can you please do a clip of you doing some wide no coats or seams, I wanna see how you handle them, Like i said, You must be one sore dude at the end of the day and in the morn doing all that.


----------



## gazman

Nice work Moore.:thumbup: What is your system with your angles? I know you had some angle tools, just wondering how they were working out for you.


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Great work once again moore, So your finishing everything by hand, You must feel hammered at the end of the day busting out wide seams like that with a trowel, If you can and get a chance can you please do a clip of you doing some wide no coats or seams, I wanna see how you handle them, Like i said, You must be one sore dude at the end of the day and in the morn doing all that.


 The pre-fill before I put the no-coat on was over kill too..

shotty factory trusses 24 oc.. 

Atleast my 450 don't look like this guys 450..


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> Nice work Moore.:thumbup: What is your system with your angles? I know you had some angle tools, just wondering how they were working out for you.


I'm playin around with them gaz..Still not fully equipt to do them properly..

The builder walked in last week and was talking about the d/c he used years ago [ we have done his work for the last 8 years]
He said that other guy used those factoy machine things..I said you mean mud boxes? I was on my skim coat..I pointed at the seam behind him and told him I used those mud boxes on all these wall and ceiling seams...He was ...He said but,,but,, you didn't use em on the last house..I said I've used them on all your houses for little over a year now..I wasn't sure how to read him as he walked out,,but on sand day. He walked in handed me my check ..said this one really came out nice moore ..I'll have another one ready for ya in a few weeks..He knows I go the extra mile to straightin out the chit lumber @ trusses in those homes ..
I don't need him! He needs me! point is ..The machine tools are frowned upon around here..but I'm preaching @ pushing :thumbup:


----------



## JustMe

moore said:


> point is ..The machine tools are frowned upon around here..but I'm preaching @ pushing :thumbup:


Don't know if I'd preach too hard. Put those tools in lesser hands and they might make a bit of a mess for awhile. Then the thought that tools are no good might go around again.

I might preach that tools are good in Trained hands. If they asked where you trained, you could say DWT Tech, with follow-up at P8 University - if you ever get up to work with P.A. and fr8train.


----------



## moore

JustMe said:


> Don't know if I'd preach too hard. Put those tools in lesser hands and they might make a bit of a mess for awhile. Then the thought that tools are no good might go around again.
> 
> I might preach that tools are good in Trained hands. If they asked where you trained, you could say DWT Tech, with follow-up at P8 University - if you ever get up to work with P.A. and fr8train.


 Yeah ..I keep the pump @ boxes in a closet out of sight..I have the job to myself most times.. unless they see them and ask. I keep my methods to myself..but this one builder was sayin the tools were junk ..messy ...did a bad finish blah,,blah.. so I couldn't help it Just me ..I had to say something!! I told him these tools will only work well in the hands of an experienced hand finisher.. 

btw.. I ..even at first..had no issues with the flat boxes making a mess . lots of wiping mud on my pants yes,,but I drop more mud running bead than I do pushing the box..


----------



## PrecisionTaping

JustMe said:


> Don't know if I'd preach too hard. Put those tools in lesser hands and they might make a bit of a mess for awhile. Then the thought that tools are no good might go around again.
> 
> I might preach that tools are good in Trained hands. If they asked where you trained, you could say DWT Tech, with follow-up at P8 University - if you ever get up to work with P.A. and fr8train.


That's exactly what happened around here.
They're more excepted now, but I remember when I first started my business like 5 years back, allot of contractors said they didn't want those tools on their job sites.
Because of exactly that reason, some dumbass thought he knew what he was doing and messed up a bunch of houses and word got around town that those tools are no good.
I told contractors the same thing, in trained hands they're the best!


----------



## JustMe

moore said:


> btw.. I ..even at first..had no issues with the flat boxes making a mess . lots of wiping mud on my pants yes,,but I drop more mud running bead than I do pushing the box..


Running boxes, especially the smaller ones, can be pretty easy, especially if you get a few of the basics right enough, like dialing in your blade height.

A few of the other tools can be more problematic. But if you catch on well enough, which I think you would, a little input from P.A. and fr8 should have you going well enough in little time.

My last trainee - someone in her late 20s - came with a year experience in doing little stuff and checkout. Never used anything bigger than an 8" knife. I had her running the boxes in 10 minutes, and bazooka in 15 minutes, corners and all, on the walls. She was good with them.
Didn't have her do any ceilings, ceiling angles, though, or the higher 8' flat tapes on the walls that we get in commercial. 

She didn't like the corner flushers, which we use most of, instead of angle heads. She didn't like the steady push control you need with flushers, while keeping the handle angled properly into the wall. But she was getting on to them by the time she left.


----------



## betterdrywall

moore said:


> Yeah ..I keep the pump @ boxes in a closet out of sight..I have the job to myself most times.. unless they see them and ask. I keep my methods to myself..but this one builder was sayin the tools were junk ..messy ...did a bad finish blah,,blah.. so I couldn't help it Just me ..I had to say something!! I told him these tools will only work well in the hands of an experienced hand finisher..
> 
> btw.. I ..even at first..had no issues with the flat boxes making a mess . lots of wiping mud on my pants yes,,but I drop more mud running bead than I do pushing the box..


Box Coaters are for running clean smooth coats on the joints and butts. If the outside of your box is messy especially along the top where the blade guide and blade adjustment is,, Then your material is either,,One,, Too thin,, or Two,, Your pushing too hard,, appling too much pressure. Very improtant to keep material consistant . 
Most don't like the 7 inch box.. Doesn't hold enough mud,, Does not coat out wide enough,, Well the main reason for the 7 inch is so a person CAN run with heavier fill coat on the first pass that will dry perfect with very little crownage. Sure it maybe abit slower,, But it sure makes the next coat FAST and SWEET


----------



## moore

JustMe said:


> Running boxes, especially the smaller ones, can be pretty easy, especially if you get a few of the basics right enough, like dialing in your blade height.
> 
> A few of the other tools can be more problematic. But if you catch on well enough, which I think you would, a little input from P.A. and fr8 should have you going well enough in little time.
> 
> My last trainee - someone in her late 20s - came with a year experience in doing little stuff and checkout. Never used anything bigger than an 8" knife. I had her running the boxes in 10 minutes, and bazooka in 15 minutes, corners and all, on the walls. She was good with them.
> Didn't have her do any ceilings, ceiling angles, though, or the higher 8' flat tapes on the walls that we get in commercial.
> 
> She didn't like the corner flushers, which we use most of, instead of angle heads. She didn't like the steady push control you need with flushers, while keeping the handle angled properly into the wall. But she was getting on to them by the time she left.


 Is you callin me a girl???:jester:

[off topic] I had two girl cousins ..finishers...They moved on to better things years ago..They were taping out a house for my Dad.
He dropped me off with them to spot nails / gofer/mix mud...but mostly gofer...I was 13 maybe 14 ....I was spotting nails in a closet ,,and in the corner was two 16oz pepsi bottles full of piss...
At the time I thought ...how the hell?? ,,,But now I think ..That must have been one straight whistle!

My dad always said ...Your mom could run a bottom angle better than any man I've ever had work for me.. I think Dad just liked watching her running bottom angles:whistling2:....LOL....:yes:


----------



## JustMe

moore said:


> Is you callin me a girl???:jester:


Only if you're feeling defensive about what I said. 



moore said:


> [off topic] I had two girl cousins ..finishers...They moved on to better things years ago..They were taping out a house for my Dad.
> He dropped me off with them to spot nails / gofer/mix mud...but mostly gofer...I was 13 maybe 14 ....I was spotting nails in a closet ,,and in the corner was two 16oz pepsi bottles full of piss...
> At the time I thought ...how the hell?? ,,,But now I think ..That must have been one straight whistle!
> 
> My dad always said ...Your mom could run a bottom angle better than any man I've ever had work for me.. I think Dad just liked watching her running bottom angles:whistling2:....LOL....:yes:


I heard stories about girls who could pick up bottles with their..... . Do you think that.............?

She got good fast with learning how to use wider knives as well - 10", 12". I had her coating out some fairly difficult columns and the like near the end, before they laid her off. Only took her 3 months to get to that point. And that was with a fair amount of fire taping and screw spotting thrown in there as well, so she wasn't doing the more difficult finishing work all that time.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

JustMe said:


> I had her running the boxes in 10 minutes, and bazooka in 15 minutes, corners and all, on the walls. She was good with them.


My my my........ A GIRL learning to run that overly complicated tool called the Bazooka:whistling2::whistling2:

I bet you didn't half to teach her how to clean it either


----------



## JustMe

2buckcanuck said:


> My my my........ A GIRL learning to run that overly complicated tool called the Bazooka:whistling2::whistling2:
> 
> I bet you didn't half to teach her how to clean it either


Yep, a few less pumps in the bazooka so she could handle it well enough for awhile - she had some strength, but was a willowy type and was new to running it - and away she would go. Never really screwed up with at all, except jamming it up the odd time. She had a deadly eye for cutting.

And no, I didn't have to teach her to clean it. She pretty much left that to me.

I kind of chose that. My shoulder was enough of a bother then that being backup to her when it made sense enough for it, was okay by me.


----------



## VANMAN

moore said:


> Yeah ..I keep the pump @ boxes in a closet out of sight..I have the job to myself most times.. unless they see them and ask. I keep my methods to myself..but this one builder was sayin the tools were junk ..messy ...did a bad finish blah,,blah.. so I couldn't help it Just me ..I had to say something!! I told him these tools will only work well in the hands of an experienced hand finisher..
> 
> btw.. I ..even at first..had no issues with the flat boxes making a mess . lots of wiping mud on my pants yes,,but I drop more mud running bead than I do pushing the box..


 It shouldn't matter if ur a hand finisher or use tools!
Its the person doing the job thats the problem if its crap!:thumbsup:


----------



## justadrywallguy

Here is a Fraternity we did in Columbia,MO. Just finished it up. This is the dinning hall. It was MASSIVE:yes:


----------



## smisner50s

verry nice did you do the paint work also


----------



## 2buckcanuck

justadrywallguy said:


> Here is a Fraternity we did in Columbia,MO. Just finished it up. This is the dinning hall. It was MASSIVE:yes:


So did you get stuck doing the wild looking windows:thumbup:

Bet you had no Air conditioning, like PA rocker gets on his jobs:whistling2:


----------



## bmitch

is that a expansion joint on the gabled end? it looks good to break up that larger area.nice job


----------



## justadrywallguy

smisner50s said:


> verry nice did you do the paint work also


No I just finish, and sand.


----------



## justadrywallguy

2buckcanuck said:


> So did you get stuck doing the wild looking windows:thumbup:
> 
> Bet you had no Air conditioning, like PA rocker gets on his jobs:whistling2:


Pfftt!!! what is Air conditioning. Had those windows, a big one sorta like it on the third floor( which was cut up like crazy ) and a dome ceiling in the entrance. Started it in April just got done. 6 finishers there full time Needless to say it was a monster! The one I am on now has tons of rounded walls. The (butt crack) is taped, the other is just prefilled.


----------



## moore




----------



## moore

98 hours so [email protected] Got 1 more pass to make in basement stairwell and basement room. No sanding in basement /stairwell or main foyer.


----------



## Kiwiman

moore said:


> 98 hours so [email protected] Got 1 more pass to make in basement stairwell and basement room. No sanding in basement /stairwell or main foyer.


You're not a taper Moore, you're a magician :thumbsup:
How are you finding that magic corner to work with....good stuff is it?


----------



## moore

Kiwiman said:


> You're not a taper Moore, you're a magician :thumbsup:
> How are you finding that magic corner to work with....good stuff is it?


 The magic corner works well for me ..A little more work than no-coat . That attic room was a 10 year old frame..crooked as a dog di!k..The mc did as good as nc to straightin the off angles ..I do like the looks of the mc ..After It's painted those angles will look really cool. [wish I could say the same for the basement:whistling2:]


----------



## smisner50s

This is a total repaint we are in the process of ..all the different colored rooms are rentail units we just finished up..


----------



## VANMAN

smisner50s said:


> This is a total repaint we are in the process of ..all the different colored rooms are rentail units we just finished up..
> 
> View attachment 4959
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 4960
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 4961
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 4962
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 4963
> 
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 4964


 Makes me want 2 go back 2 painting!!
No thanks, thats some pain in the butt work that but looking good:thumbsup:


----------



## justadrywallguy

A orthodontist office we just got done with half of it. All the rounded walls are skimmed out an hand sanded:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

justadrywallguy said:


> A orthodontist office we just got done with half of it. All the rounded walls are skimmed out an hand sanded:thumbsup:


Looks really good:thumbsup:
But you know someone was going to ask this question, so it may as well be me

How come some of your screws are squared/cubed in. Do you have a newb that likes square dancing or something:jester:


----------



## warrenjo

justadrywallguy said:


> here is a fraternity we did in columbia,mo. Just finished it up. This is the dinning hall. It was massive:yes:


 nice work!!!!!!!


----------



## justadrywallguy

2buckcanuck said:


> Looks really good:thumbsup:
> But you know someone was going to ask this question, so it may as well be me
> 
> How come some of your screws are squared/cubed in. Do you have a newb that likes square dancing or something:jester:


Yep the new guy. But the owner of the company mentioned something about striking the screws twice up an down then last time sideways, so being the new guy he did it:blink:


----------



## moore

justadrywallguy....That's the smoothest butt crack I've ever seen:yes: Really nice work man:yes:


----------



## justadrywallguy

smisner50s said:


> This is a total repaint we are in the process of ..all the different colored rooms are rentail units we just finished up..
> 
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Glad to see our customers are not the only ones with crazy color syndrome


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## smisner50s

We are allways in to crazy colors..


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## smisner50s

Well gonna be shingling a few day on this house were building...hottest part of the summer..


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## Trim-Tex

Oak Grove Middle School in Illinois. Architect, GC and drywall co. are all very pleased. 









350 Chamfer arch, AS5150 1/4x1/4 reveal, RA10 Rigid Arch Corner Bead and 3299 Arch L Bead for the recessed LED lighting on top


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## Trim-Tex

They will install our Blue decorative reveal insert later this week.


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## smisner50s

Not done yet but getting there ..one tuff paint job tons of cutting in..


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