# Using automatic taping tools



## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I just started purchasing some auto tools. I haven't used them other than trying out one box (I was curious ).

So far I have:
-7,10,12 tapetech boxes
-36" and and adjustable tapetech handle
-2 pumps (first one was junk, but I am fixing it)
-mudrunner and 3" head
-3" tapetech nail spotter
-I also have the full BTE kit. 3 sizes of flushers, sausage tube, supertaper and case.

I am looking for a tapetech taper right now and the goose neck for the pump.

So far I have always taped everything by hand with knives and the BTE flusher kit, with the super taper.

Now, I have a few questions with the auto tools:

1>What is the best sequence? Does tapetech have training videos? I emailed, but no response yet.

2> do I require a roller or can I still just use the BTE corner flusher to embed the tape?

3> some have said you can finish corners in one shot with the mudrunner and 3" head. How many of you do this?

My current job right now is a full house (2 story, approx 750sqft of floorspace/floor)

Thanks in advance for any help.

scott


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

a roller makes a world of difference. I used to use my bte flushers to bed my tape after rolling, thinking any raised screws might damage the blades on my 2.5" angle head, but the DM angle head works so much better than the flushers I figure its worth the risk. 

I'd suggest you not pigeon hole yourself into a Tapetech taper. It's likely a nice tool, but if you can get a good deal on a Columbia, or DM, or a Northstar, they'll treat you fine too. My Columbia has been great. Bought it on ebay for cheap, and its been great. Or you might consider a Marshalltown Banjo. It's a whole lot easier to clean.

Check out youtube for videos. There's lots of good info on there.


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## Hammy (Apr 24, 2010)

I agree with Saul. 

I use BTE flushers and finally bought a roller, what a huge difference.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Agree with all that, good advice guys, go the corner roller and angle head, takes some getting use too but better result, i still whip the flushers around the cupboards though, U tubes great for video clips, Drywallmasters site have some too. Still in the process of learning the angle head on the mudrunner but looks promising.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I appreciate the advice, so it looks like I am on the lookout for a corner roller too. Do they wear out, I have been looking on ebay.

Now for corner tools, is the 3" angle head enough? Or do I need a smaller one to bed the tape? I imagine I could still use the 2 or 2.5" flusher?

Thanks...scott


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

Corner rollers wear out. I'm all for used tools on ebay, but corner rollers are likely best bought new. Leading Edge is Canadian and ships everywhere. They've been good to me. All Wall is good too, but the $50 shipping to Canada sucks.

I doubt you'll be happy using the same head 3 times on your tape. It'll built up too much. I use a 2.5 to bed the tape, second coat with a 3", and third coat with a 2"--but I'm a tool whore too


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Shipping isn't an issue. I have a US address as well and just drive over to pick the stuff up.

Anyone have a decent taper for sale? I would prefer Tapetech... I like things to match!

scott


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Northstar adjustar corner roller on the handle is great, and i think you need a 2.5 and a 3.5 angle head. My drywallmaster bone heads are great.


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

mmm. . .the Northstar roller does look nice. That'll be my next one. My current one is a can-am that I bought on short notice. Took what was on hand. But the back of the wheels are open and will fill with mud. it's the devil to clean.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Scott,use the roller 1st then follow with your flusher, or angle head,you need to make sure theres plenty of mud and wet,it takes practice, Ive got a tape-tech roller, always clean it ,dont even know how old it is,if you,ve never used one you,re in for a treat. You need 2 size angle heads; unless your super great with flusher 1 pass and then one angle pass.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Ok, just won a tapetech taper for $355 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300437448329&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Don't mind the ebay ID... its my wife's! 

Now for my pump, do all goose necks fit any pump? Anything I should look out for?

Can someone outline the process they would use to do corners, using the tools I have? I only have the one 3" angle head and 3 sizes of flushers. Also, assume I have the roller as well.

Does the roller really make that much of a difference?

So now I am hunting for a corner roller, goose neck and a 2" (or 2.5"??) angle head?

Hopefully my mudrunner works when I try it. I haven't yet (its used).

So who wants to come up to Canada for beer and pizza? :thumbup: Ohh.. and a little tool fun!

thanks for the advice...scott


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott, there isn't alot to a mudrunner,, they are touchy, but they are not that finicky(by that I mean, there is a bunch of little adjustments that make em work right, but mostly, they don't brake down alot. You just have to keep em adjusted and all the screws and stuff in place). Take the tube off and push the plunger down with your hand. If it ccomes back up, the cylinder is working.The rest is just adjustment and so on.

Good luck


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I haven't seen every goosneck nor every tube, but for what I have seen, all goosenecks will work on any tube, with the exception of,,,,, the filler tube that comes out of the taper will sometimes need to elongated to recieve the goosneck. In other words, you may have to ease off on the set screw and pull the filler tube out abit on the taper to get it it to fit the gossneck, but the gossenck WILL fill the tube.(that happened to me on a DM tube I bought). You will know if that is a problem, If you try to fill the tube, but the nud runs out on the floor and not in the tube. Its an easy thing to fix.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Well I now have the tapetech goose neck and a tapetech roller with adjustable pole.

So I guess the only things missing for my collection is a 2" angle head? I guess I could try to get by with a 2 or 2 1/2" flusher for now?

Just waiting for the rest of the stuff to arrive now! Almost like Christmas all over! :thumbup:

thanks...scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Just an update. I just picked up all 3 sizes of Northstar angle heads (2.5, 3 and 3.5).

It looks like I have everything but the nailspotter. But I can live without that.

Now before I break the stuff out and try them, can someone give me a rundown on the sequence from the the board is up?

Do I leave all corner bead off until the corners, flats and butts are done?

Much appreciated, I'll be using them next week. I will post a walk thru video of the house before mud when the board is done.

thanks...scott


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Scott, there isn't alot to a mudrunner,, they are touchy, but they are not that finicky(by that I mean, there is a bunch of little adjustments that make em work right, but mostly, they don't brake down alot. You just have to keep em adjusted and all the screws and stuff in place). Take the tube off and push the plunger down with your hand. If it ccomes back up, the cylinder is working.The rest is just adjustment and so on.
> 
> Good luck


Where are these little adjustments and how often do they need attention.Just wondering .Cheers


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Where are these little adjustments and how often do they need attention.Just wondering .Cheers


Yeah me too?, i have one but dont see much to adjust? I did get a pipe clamp and put it on under the top clips and only take the bottom clips off for cleaning as you suggested capt, this helps to stop the top tube from cracking i think you mentioned.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Yeah me too?, i have one but dont see much to adjust? I did get a pipe clamp and put it on under the top clips and only take the bottom clips off for cleaning as you suggested capt, this helps to stop the top tube from cracking i think you mentioned.


Down on the very bottom, there is a #8 (I think) machine screw with a plastic bushing around it. If it comes loose or the plastic piece wears out you will wallow out the bottom of the brass color tube. Be sure to keep an eye on it and keep it snug, and remember to replace the plastic bushing before it wears out. They are like 50 cents whereas the brass tube is like 150.00.

Also If you notice, the white piece (PVC) that you grip to twist, has a little hole on either side. That is there so you can slip that little plastic (red) tube that comes with a can of wd40(I know, you guys hate it). You can keep the twister working alot easier if you give up on hateing wd and keep it lubed.

After you get done using it and got it all cleaned up, turn it upside down, place the nose on your foot, grasp the shaft with your left hand and then twist the tube. This will force the brass pieace down just a hair, then spray the HELL out of the gap between the brass and the end cap with (what-else) WD40. this will clean all the grundge out of the bottom. 
Makes it work alot easier, but then again, you have to use wd, alas!!!!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Cheers Capt, Thanks for that, I know what else you do with the WD from another thread so now i think of that whenever i see it  My old mate Mr Lanox will do just fine.:jester:


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Down on the very bottom, there is a #8 (I think) machine screw with a plastic bushing around it. If it comes loose or the plastic piece wears out you will wallow out the bottom of the brass color tube. Be sure to keep an eye on it and keep it snug, and remember to replace the plastic bushing before it wears out. They are like 50 cents whereas the brass tube is like 150.00.
> 
> Also If you notice, the white piece (PVC) that you grip to twist, has a little hole on either side. That is there so you can slip that little plastic (red) tube that comes with a can of wd40(I know, you guys hate it). You can keep the twister working alot easier if you give up on hateing wd and keep it lubed.
> 
> ...


Have used wd40 on all my stuff for about the last couple months .Works fine for me . I get it in the 4 litre container and pour in a spray bottle , top stuff .Thanks for mudrunner info .Its going ok Cheers:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Cheers Capt, Thanks for that, I know what else you do with the WD from another thread so now i think of that whenever i see it  My old mate Mr Lanox will do just fine.:jester:


 Well ya know, ya got to take care of your tools !!!!:thumbsup:


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## columbia (Aug 27, 2010)

Hey Scott,

We have a quick 8 minute DVD to show the sequence for taping on facebook. Look up Columbia Taping Tools and have a look. Going Automatic tools will be a small learning curve but you will pick it up quickly. Enjoy making money!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

columbia said:


> Hey Scott,
> 
> We have a quick 8 minute DVD to show the sequence for taping on facebook. Look up Columbia Taping Tools and have a look. Going Automatic tools will be a small learning curve but you will pick it up quickly. Enjoy making money!


wow there's money in taping ?????????since when:jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> wow there's money in taping ?????????since when:jester:


Shhh,,, don't tell the rest of em,, they will all want to get into the act !!!!


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Tried the taper today.... a little bit of a learning curve for me! I think I had the mud right the first time I mixed it, but stupid me I decided I would try it thinner. Then it was dripping on me doing the ceiling!

I think I need to oil the crap out of it. It doesn't seem to run smooth. Do you oil the tube anyways? Or just all the end.

Also when you get the tab to start, why don't I have mud on it, or much mud?

When advancing it through it seems the mud doesn't cover the whole tap side to side all the time. Is this normal? It seems ok when wiping down as it squeezes out.

Well tomorrow I go back at it.

I now have 3 sizes of Northstar heads and 2 and 3" nailspotters. I am still waiting on the spotters, they won't be here in time for this job.

thanks...scott


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott_w said:


> Tried the taper today.... a little bit of a learning curve for me! I think I had the mud right the first time I mixed it, but stupid me I decided I would try it thinner. Then it was dripping on me doing the ceiling!
> 
> I think I need to oil the crap out of it. It doesn't seem to run smooth. Do you oil the tube anyways? Or just all the end.
> 
> ...


Scott, the first day I ran a taper, I went home, sat on the couch,, and honestly wanted to cry like a Bitch.

The reason the mud was dripping on you from the ceiling is because you were trying to run BOTH wheels flat on the lid. Just run the right wheel for about 6 feet, then swing the taper over and run the left wheel for the next 6 feet, then the right again. (if you run just the right wheel all the way, the tape will peel off and fall in the floor. It was NOT dripping because it was too thin. (it is possible to get it too thin, but coming from hand-tapeing, I'd bet a c note you did not have it too thin). I can run stomp mud through a taper,, now thats thin.

As for oiling it,,, I spray my entire tube, up, down, in and out with wd-40. I mean I grease it. Look at it like haveing sex,,, lube makes everything go better. I had my DM tube re-built by all-wall (its black) they sent it back with a neon green sticker on it that said "DO NOT USE WD-40" It evidently is a quality sticker, cause I have been spraying that sticker with wd for 3 years now and it has held up considerably well.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

to get mud on the tape turn/crank the rectangle thing where the gear/wheel(chain) is,push up on tape feeder and turn wheel by hand,this will get mud on tape,(for angles only[if needed]) dont really need to have mud at end of tape for flats
or drive to london and will show you how to run one for free,


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Thanks! I did have it peel off and hit the floor!  I could have thrown it through the windows!:yes:

What about the mud not full covering the tape? Or lack of mud on the tab?

thanks..scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> to get mud on the tape turn/crank the rectangle thing where the gear/wheel(chain) is,push up on tape feeder and turn wheel by hand,this will get mud on tape,(for angles only[if needed]) dont really need to have mud at end of tape for flats
> or drive to london and will show you how to run one for free,


Thanks, I appreciate the offer! Thats only about an hour or so away. I'll see what happens tomorrow. All else fails I will have to use the super taper just to keep the job moving.

scott


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

might be starting one (house ) tuesday ,let me know,we run 2 bazooka's when we tape.....,have you taping like a pro in one day,pm me if things dont improve ,not joking,dont mind teaching


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Greatly appreciated! I am heading out soon for round 2 :blink:

scott


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I seems hard at first but you will have to learn to crawl for the first couple of rolls then soon after you will be walking after a box, 10 rolls. Then I'd say once you have a couple miles of tape on the wall you will be jogging along with a smile.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Thanks, my jobs will be quite small in comparison to you guys. This house is a small 2 story, 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom. It is about 700sft of floor space per floor and about 4500sqft of drywall.

Thanks, I appreciate all the input!

scott


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott_w said:


> Thanks, my jobs will be quite small in comparison to you guys. This house is a small 2 story, 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom. It is about 700sft of floor space per floor and about 4500sqft of drywall.
> 
> Thanks, I appreciate all the input!
> 
> scott


Scott, the only thing that cause a dry spot"mechanically" is air in the tube. Never let your pump suck air.ever, keep your bucket full. The other way air gets in there is if your clicker brake is slipping. If the wheels roll backwards at all, you have a dry spot. Make sure you can't roll the wheels backwards with you fingers, if you can't the clicker is working. 

If all is well in your bucket and with your clicker, then dry spots are operator error, which gets better everytime you use your taper.

Most dry spots by beginners are caused by not haveing the smooth transistion from cutting the tape and starting to roll again, just have to be aware of this and practice. come to a complete stop,cut,then roll again without sliding the taper. Oh yeah, one other thing, if you let the taper "slide" (not enough pressure to turn the wheels", you will drag dry tape out beacuse the tape is already stuck and will pull out even if your not rolling the wheels. Hope that makes sense to ya.

Good luck and hang in thar


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I did a little better today...just got in. It is slow going for me for sure!

Using the angle head though I kept catching and tearing the tape!

My new (used) 3 1/2 northstar keeps tearing the paper on the outside. I had to switch back to the other old head I picked up.

I was having some trouble rolling and glazing with the mudrunner too.

Ill see what happens tomo... have to run with the kids to dairy queen!:thumbup:

thanks for the advice..

scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> Tried the taper today.... a little bit of a learning curve for me! I think I had the mud right the first time I mixed it, but stupid me I decided I would try it thinner. Then it was dripping on me doing the ceiling!
> 
> I think I need to oil the crap out of it. It doesn't seem to run smooth. Do you oil the tube anyways? Or just all the end.
> 
> ...


 
Just adding my 2 cents and agreeing with others,
The mixture of the compound plays a major role in taping. I like to make my mud for flats where it will barely start to fall through a hand mixer when lifting it out of the compound and alittle thinner for angles. If you get it to thin for flats than it can make a streaming mess and even make the tape harder to stick until wiped tight, plus it only allows shorter wipe down stokes because of keeping the mud from running off your knife.
If you get the compound to thick than it might cause you to drag your angles to short, bad angle glazing and gum up the taper pretty fast.
I always try to pull my tape down tight and take the excess mud from every pull and pull it back over the tight tape to fill the bevel beside the tape lines as i go for a nice smooth tape job.

The compound should be even across the tape as it comes out at all times or it could cause dry spots (tape blistering). It has already been said that making sure the wheel is not spinning backwards is something to always make sure of. Another thing is keeping the head cleaned out from any previous mud that will dry up and block the mud from evenly covering the tape. 

Keeping mud on the tab can be easily done by stopping at every flat and turning the wheel with chain at the same time of adjusting about 3 inches of tape into it or you can just learn to start the tape off alittle by rolling it a few inches on the joint before starting the whole flat.

Bill


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Thanks for the advice Bill, and welcome to Drywall talk! I will try some of that out today. I am heading out again shortly.

I think I have the taper running much better. I gave it a really good cleaning and soaked it in WD40. Made a big difference in how smooth it ran. The mud on the tape issue seems to have cleared up as well.

I figured out why I wasn't getting mud on the advanced tab. I couldn't figure out how to advance the tape other than the control tube. Turning the wheel didn't bring it forward with mud. I THINK... it turned out my mud was way to thin and wouldn't build up enough in the head to push the paper out on the wheel if that makes sense.

Now my biggest issue is the angle heads, my flushers seem so much easier to use. Now am I "pushing" the angle head like a flusher?

The angle head just seems to scrape along the wall for me and not glide.

I'll play some more today... yes a sunday! :blink: Not making any money on this one! But a good chance to learn. I think the boxes should be easier to use... i hope 

thanks for the input...scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> Thanks for the advice Bill, and welcome to Drywall talk! I will try some of that out today. I am heading out again shortly.
> 
> 
> Now my biggest issue is the angle heads, my flushers seem so much easier to use. Now am I "pushing" the angle head like a flusher?
> ...


you probably already know, but If your taping angles and glazing them down with the angle head make sure the finish blade is always in the back as you pull across the tape, if not it will only skip and/or tear the tape. This is with the angle running as well. Once your using the angle box for angle coating than make sure the mud is about the thickness of when taping. If not you will be straining your arse off and leaving skip marks across the angle which will take several times of travel to fill the angle smoothly. If the mud is to thin, than it will run out the path of the angle head blades and leave a bad edge and mess, plus the mud will not bond to the nail or screw in the angle when running across it leaving it to dry in a bulge of thin mud.

Bill


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Things went much better today with everything. I had to pull out the super taper to do the closets and small bathroom though. I am too clumsy in a small cramped area with the bazooka. :blink:

I am also getting the hang of the angle head and mudrunner. I am using my 3" columbia head right now on the first coat.

I bought 3 Northstar heads off ebay (2 separate sellers) supposed to be a 2.5, 3 and 3.5. I didn't know northstar didn't have a 3" so apparently the seller miss labeled the auction. Now I have 2 - 3.5" heads! Oh well, I emailed him.

Thanks for the help. I will try the northstar heads again. I think I was using them wrong and thats why the drywall face was tearing.

scott


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Dont worry about having extra angle heads. I have 2 sets, that way when one set is down Im not losing time while it gets rebuilt or re set. I send mine in to columbia . I just cant figure out how to adjust the blades properly and 2 wait a week or 2 while columbia plays with them costs me too much down time and money.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

taper71 said:


> Dont worry about having extra angle heads. I have 2 sets, that way when one set is down Im not losing time while it gets rebuilt or re set. I send mine in to columbia . I just cant figure out how to adjust the blades properly and 2 wait a week or 2 while columbia plays with them costs me too much down time and money.


 I agree, I have a col 2 1/2 that I dropped off a baker scaffold onto concrete, broke both frames,, so till I git it fixed or re-placed, I'm done with it. Can't have too many back-up heads, when you need em ,,,ya need em.

Adjusting them is tuff, till ya figure it out. the blade needs to be a c' hair over the skid, just barely able to feel it with your finger-nail. Lay your angle-head on a mirror when you are working with it, that tells you way more than you can see or feel. If you can pull back on the wings, and the blades open up,, you have broke frames (like I'm looking at right now), nothing you can do to fix that cept replace them or the head. One thing that needs to be checked when buying used heads.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> . the blade needs to be a c' hair over the skid, just barely able to feel it with your finger-nail.


 Where do you find those c' hairs, thats one feeler gauge I don't have in my tool box.:whistling2:


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Where do you find those c' hairs, thats one feeler gauge I don't have in my tool box.:whistling2:


The C' hairs are usually kept on the outside of the tool box under the apron.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

My tool box don't have C' hairs and I like it that way anyways.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Getting better! I have been really taking my time, playing around. The 2nd floor will go much faster I think.

Played with one of the flat boxes today... I LIKE! Pretty easy to run. 

I bought some nail spotters, but they won't be here in time. So I will have to hand spot. That sucks!

Once I am done, I will shoot a little video before sanding so you guys can tear it apart!:yes:

Thanks...scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

The flat box can sure test your muscles and your driving skills down a straight line,lol.
Glad you had a good day and look forward to seeing your video.

Bill


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Things went ok today. I am taking things really slow so I can try different ways of holding the tools. You guys would have been done this house in a day or so! :blink:

I am MUCH better with the taper. The angle heads are still giving me trouble. They seems hard to move and I can't get a good finish with either of the 3 1/2's or the 2 1/2 (all northstar, and all newish). The old 3" columbia seems to run ok though. I went back and grabbed my BTE flushers and wiped everything down. The flusher ran much better than the heads. WHAT am I doing wrong? I read in the other thread about sharp blades, could this be it?

All in all I am getting better everyday.:thumbsup: Just the angle heads frustrate me. BTW, I am running them with a mudrunner.

Oh another thing I figured out. I thought I would have to change the goose neck to fill the mudrunner. It actually will fill using the goose neck as well! :thumbsup:

scott


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott_w said:


> Things went ok today. I am taking things really slow so I can try different ways of holding the tools. You guys would have been done this house in a day or so! :blink:
> 
> I am MUCH better with the taper. The angle heads are still giving me trouble. They seems hard to move and I can't get a good finish with either of the 3 1/2's or the 2 1/2 (all northstar, and all newish). The old 3" columbia seems to run ok though. I went back and grabbed my BTE flushers and wiped everything down. The flusher ran much better than the heads. WHAT am I doing wrong? I read in the other thread about sharp blades, could this be it?
> 
> ...


Bout the gooseneck, ya know it probbly would, never tried it. I always run my mudrunner SO thin, it won't run in anything else, had the tube going and the mudrunner going together a bunch, but since the tube mud will STOP UP and not work for CHIT with runner mud, I always mix a batch of SOUP for the runner.

About the mudrunner. Pay attention here, please,, put the mudrunner into the angle at knee-level, twist and go down to the bottom. Then turn it over, place it at the BOTTOM and come all the way up to the top (full twist). Its the only way to git it to run the way you want it too. If you start at the top, you will have probs with the first two feet down, if you start at the bottom, you will have probs with the first two feet up.

Just try it


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

THANKS! Makes sense.

What do you guys do to prep brand new heads for use?

thanks...scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

About the mudrunner. Pay attention here said:


> I sure would like to find a used mudrunner to buy, the company i work for use to rent one but got away from renting, so now i am back on the hockey box. I have 2 jobs coming up with a total of 2,000 board and ALOT of cubicles, which means alot of angles. The boss man is too stubborn to buy one, but I sure will just to help save our backs,lol.
> 
> Bill


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

wow ,you guys just convinced me not to buy a mud runner
and whats a hockey box,and I'm Canadian??????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> THANKS! Makes sense.
> 
> What do you guys do to prep brand new heads for use?
> 
> thanks...scott


nothing,but if it's ripping and tearing tapes file the point down a bit,rub against a brick or concrete floor a TINY bit,repeat if necessary ,use runny mud for mechanical heads too


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> wow ,you guys just convinced me not to buy a mud runner
> and whats a hockey box,and I'm Canadian??????


Around here alot of guys refer to an angle box as a hockey box,:yes:.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> wow ,you guys just convinced me not to buy a mud runner
> and whats a hockey box,and I'm Canadian??????


Why is that???? after I bought a mudrunner, I never, ever used the corner-box again.


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## ColumbiaTechSupport (Aug 13, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> Things went ok today. I am taking things really slow so I can try different ways of holding the tools. You guys would have been done this house in a day or so! :blink:
> 
> I am MUCH better with the taper. The angle heads are still giving me trouble. They seems hard to move and I can't get a good finish with either of the 3 1/2's or the 2 1/2 (all northstar, and all newish). The old 3" columbia seems to run ok though. I went back and grabbed my BTE flushers and wiped everything down. The flusher ran much better than the heads. WHAT am I doing wrong? I read in the other thread about sharp blades, could this be it?
> 
> ...


Don't know the exact problem you're having but to get the head to move well you don't want to press to hard and you wand to stay out in front of it and pull it along, let it do all the work. If the heads are brand new the blades should be pre-softened and ready to go, at least that's the way all of ours go out. If they are tearing the tape or drywall try running the blades face down lightly over a sheet of sand paper. Are you using a corner roller first?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

start from middle go down,start from middle go up ,too many strokes


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

scott use a angle handle /pole to lay tapes ,makes a world of difference ,pole applys more pressure


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> nothing,but if it's ripping and tearing tapes file the point down a bit,rub against a brick or concrete floor a TINY bit,repeat if necessary ,use runny mud for mechanical heads too


Agreed, I "touch" my new ones to a grinder to knock the burr of the point, just another one of them c-hairs tho. If you rub your finger over the point and can feel a burr, its too sharp, it should be smooth to your finger when you run it over the point.

If you are running over wet tape, you will tear it if you haven't dulled the point. If you tape, let dry and then first coat, it don't matter, even tho you are doing an extra step.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> scott use a angle handle /pole to lay tapes ,makes a world of difference ,pole applys more pressure


Huh??? a pole applies more pressure than a mudrunner??? Have you run a mudrunner?

BTW, how do you adjust how much mud you put on the tape with a pole???


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I had no luck with the Northstar heads today. They seem to be "scraping" and tear the face of the drywall the odd time on the outside edge.

I am going to try the old columbia head (3") tomorrow. I had better luck with it the first day.

I had to resort to the flushers to keep moving ahead. They ran WAY better for me!

scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> I had no lock with the Northstar heads today. They seem to be "scraping" and tear the face of the drywall the odd time on the outside edge.
> 
> I am going to try the old columbia head (3") tomorrow. I had better luck with it the first day.
> 
> ...


Ok I can't handle it anymore,lol. I have been in drywall for, well forever and have never heard of a flusher in drywall. is this the same as a hockey box,lol?
Bill


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

proficient Mudder said:


> Ok I can't handle it anymore,lol. I have been in drywall for, well forever and have never heard of a flusher in drywall. is this the same as a hockey box,lol?
> Bill


 Here you go... its a poor man's angle head!






Here's a video of the Better Than Ever drywall setup I used to use:






scott


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Ok I still can't get the 3.5 head to work without scraping and tearing the drywall paper. It is at the very outside edge of the blade that catches. It seems a little sharp, can this just be filed a bit?

I ran an old columbia 3" that I got with my mudrunner and I had no problems.

thanks...scott


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

yes file it,a tiny bit


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Never had an anglehead do that at the "outside" of the corner. Never had a North-star either. That shouldn't matter tho. Does it do it on BOTH sides??? or just one????

And in agreement with the above post,, IF my head was doing that,, I would file it !!!!! AFTER I was sure it was the heads porblem,,, I would probbly use the 3" on one corner, then the 3 1/2 on the next corner. That will remove all variables except the heads themselves. 

Good luck and keep us posted


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott, I got to thinking (thats dangerous) are you taping with the bazook and trying to glaze the corner with the 3 1/2 on a pole??? or are you using the mudrunner???? 

I say that cause a bazooka WILL NOT give you enough mud to glaze with a 3 1/2 on a pole, if you try, you WILL scar up something,,, trust me on this one.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

I am using a mudrunner. I even tried it on the 2nd coat (i know... i know :wallbash and it still seemed to "scrape". I could clearly see on the very outside edge where the front blade (at the outside corner of it) it is scraping. I think it is both. Along the whole edge of the blade, the edges are eased, but the ends are rounded, but square edges if that makes sense.

If I use the columbia head, it just glides across the surface.

Thanks...scott


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Scott_w said:


> I am using a mudrunner. I even tried it on the 2nd coat (i know... i know :wallbash and it still seemed to "scrape". I could clearly see on the very outside edge where the front blade (at the outside corner of it) it is scraping. I think it is both. Along the whole edge of the blade, the edges are eased, but the ends are rounded, but square edges if that makes sense.
> 
> If I use the columbia head, it just glides across the surface.
> 
> Thanks...scott


Just wanting to make sure, is the angle head clean and the blades are pivoting back in the frame good on both sides? 

take the 3 inch head that is working smoothly and kinda compare the blades setting with the 3 1/2" tool and kinda compare if the blades look sharper than the others.

Bill


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Will do.. I am off to do some work now. I will bring the heads home and take some pics.

thanks...scott


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hi Scott W 

I think i had the same scraping trouble as you with my new DM heads,
Have a read through this thread and see my pics i took, sounds like you may need to lower the side blades ( Skids ) down a little.


http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/goldblatt-g2-corner-finishers-1258/


Maybe take some pics as i did to compare?? let us know buddy, hang in there.


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

proficient Mudder said:


> Just wanting to make sure, is the angle head clean and the blades are pivoting back in the frame good on both sides?
> 
> take the 3 inch head that is working smoothly and kinda compare the blades setting with the 3 1/2" tool and kinda compare if the blades look sharper than the others.
> 
> Bill


Sorry Bill, I missed this post. Yes they move really well in the frames, both sides.

I adjusted the skid blades a little higher in the front and it seems good. :thumbup:

How much do you press on these things? Until the centre bottoms in the joint, or do you just go by feel, and what looks good?

thanks!
scott


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Scott_w said:


> Sorry Bill, I missed this post. Yes they move really well in the frames, both sides.
> 
> I adjusted the skid blades a little higher in the front and it seems good. :thumbup:
> 
> ...


I press em all the way in. They are made to pivot, so put em all the way in and run em. 

On thing to check on Scott, is when you clean em, you have to make SURE you have ALL the mud cleaned out behind the hinge at the top(below the blades and underneath). If you don't they wont pivot(compress) as they should next time


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## drywallisair (Jan 4, 2020)

Saul_Surfaces said:


> Corner rollers wear out. I'm all for used tools on ebay, but corner rollers are likely best bought new. Leading Edge is Canadian and ships everywhere. They've been good to me. All Wall is good too, but the $50 shipping to Canada sucks.
> 
> I doubt you'll be happy using the same head 3 times on your tape. It'll built up too much. I use a 2.5 to bed the tape, second coat with a 3", and third coat with a 2"--but I'm a tool whore too



Saul,


I'm getting my tools for a new Canadian site with no tax and no shipping charge over $500.


They are at www.toolriver.ca


Highly recommend them, my shipment was fast... Could use a little more selection on their site, but I think its coming... Plus where is my free shirts!?!?!? haha


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