# Durabond And Mud?



## jonathan03

So I am in the middle of a huge remodel with 50+ sheets of drywall, mostly on the ceiling. The house is 130 years old and I redrywalled all the ceilings in the house to rewire. Just want to be sure my methods are up to snuff before I do it wrong 50 times and take suggestions to make it go faster.

1) First I use Plaster of Paris to fill any huge holes since it sets in 5 minutes.

2) Then I use Fiber Tape to tape any seams.

3) I use Durabond 90 to get it close and smooth and wet sand between coats.

4) Light sand before painting.

5) Prime with Kilz oil base.

6) Paint with latex.



Thats what I normally do. However, I want to use Durabond for the seams, but then mud to top off? Is that ok to put mud over plaster? It will save a lot of finishing time but will it last and be durable?

I bought sheet rock joint topping compound (light blue pale) and it warned about the surface being dry free of moisuture, etc. It does take the durabond quite some time to be completely dry and the same temperature as the wall. 

So my question is if its ok to use mud, which kind should I use? I am leaning toward the seam mud because the house is old and not insulated as well as a new house. Just wanted to be sure the seam mud is easily sandable and worth using instead of using durabond 90 for everything like I usually do.

Thanks for the advice.


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## DSJOHN

Dura bond 90 in a brown bag or ez sand in white bag? Brown bag wont sand but is what you need on fibatape and ez sand is what you put over it, reg drywall compound is fine over anything!!! Good Luck


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## cazna

You got the idea, But (I know here we go again) paper tape or fibfuse dude, if the place is 130 years old it should be well settled though, mud should be fine over damp durabond, USG mud would be fine, or easy finish, or hamiltons. 2 coats of dura and one of mud, Sweet as man.


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## Capt-sheetrock

I would reply,, but heck,,, I guess we won't go there tonight.


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## PrairrieDogExpress

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I would reply,, but heck,,, I guess we won't go there tonight.


haha:thumbsup:


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## jonathan03

I use the brown bag rough sand in either 45 or 90 minute set time. I haven't really been sanding since I just use a lawn sprayer to hose down the joints after they are plastered and spread it down. 

My walls are still plaster. Is it safe to use mud on them? A friend says never ot use mud on plaster walls or the corner where the ceiling drywall meets the plaster. 

Is there something special to do before priming the walls? Last time I drywalled, plastered and painted and the walls felt like sandpaper. I use Kilz oil base as primer.


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## cazna

After you have sanded the plaster and primed, it needs a sand again, nothing to harsh, just 220g on a pole sander lightly done is fine, this will smooth things down for you and the finish coat of paint wont feel so rough, you could very lightly sand your second coat of paint too.


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## DSJOHN

A hose? where you coming from dude, Me,s thinks it time to hire a pro!!!


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## wnybassman

DSJOHN said:


> A hose? where you coming from dude, Me,s thinks it time to hire a pro!!!


I haven't even got that far yet. I'm still trying to figure out sanding Durabond. My sandpaper laughs at it.


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## Mudstar

cazna said:


> After you have sanded the plaster and primed, it needs a sand again, nothing to harsh, just 220g on a pole sander lightly done is fine, this will smooth things down for you and the finish coat of paint wont feel so rough, you could very lightly sand your second coat of paint too.


I thought you totally disagreed with me about sanding your prime in the other thread


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## cazna

Nice try :thumbsup: Oops if it read that way.

I wasnt disagreeing about sanding the primer, this always needs done to smooth things out, but only lightly, if its thin primer and its oversanded then 2nd coat will soak in and go a bit patchy.
Not the best base for a top coat at all.

You stated that skim coating with this method is a waste of time, thats what i disagreed with 

Most of the time it is overkill, but man if i could only show you how smooth and blemish free even before sanding this is, under the critical light this is the greatest.

Ultimate level 5 :thumbup: As McDonlds say, " Im Loving It"


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## jonathan03

DSJOHN said:


> A hose? where you coming from dude, Me,s thinks it time to hire a pro!!!


Not a hose. Lawn sprayer.










Its too hard to use a spray bottle for a large area. Especially plaster of paris. Can't spray fast enough.


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## cazna

I have heard of people using a flat mop too?? Not for me, ive been at it long enough not to need that but hey if your starting out and a bit keen on putting to much mud on i guess its gotta be better than sanding, the less dust the better.

Its a bit like wiping down coving with a wet brush to spread mud everywhere instead of knifing it off and sponging it clean??

Oh oh might have started something with that comment???


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## WallDoctor

I've been using mesh tape and ez-sand setting mud for years and have never had a problem with it. I don't use it in corners-- just flats. I usually use just enough to bury the tape (after first prefilling everything) and then it's USG Plus 3 the rest of the way. USG Topping compound (Light blue lid) really sucks and is next to useless. 

If I'm fixing plaster cracks I'll use plaster bonder in my cracks first so there is a strong bond that won't come back. 

Never had a problem taping into plaster-- as long as you make sure you don't wipe your paper tape too thin so it doesn't bond well (with all purpose or ez-sand) In fact, drywall mud is the only thing that will stick to old plaster. It's real plaster that won't stick to painted or plaster surface. There is no glue in plaster for it to bond.


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