# finishing awkward tight curved crevices ?



## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Hey everyone, i am new here. Iv been lurking and reading here for a while though.Great forum.Lots of great pro info here.I have been working for a guy who really has no clue unfortunately and does shoddy finishing work.He really doesnt care about drywall finishing and just has unexperienced day laborers doing it. It pisses me off. I however do drywall work on the side by myself for mostly friends ,friends of friends etc as of now getting more experience and learning. Only thing stopping me from starting up my own business eventually is i have a bad back and although i do pretty good work my back makes me work pretty slow. Just wanted to give a little introduction. <br><br>


Anyway i am working on a house on my own right now and have a question on finishing a small area that has me scratching my head a little. Its the inside of a vertical arch i built,trim-tex step-a-bull around it and has a post going through it which makes it hard to get a knife/trowel in there and to add to it ,its pretty wide.Pics below. <br><br>What iv come up with is basically plopping some mud in there and trying to screed it with a drywall shim.Just trying to build it up little by little and get it done with a lot of sanding.As of now i only have one rough coat on it.  There has to be a better way to do this though .Any ideas ? How would you guys tackle this?<br><br><br>


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

you have to use a wide knife and fill in between the corners and behind the wooden pole..start from top and with knife wipe down then up from behind wood..use smaller knife around wood then sand accordingly..good luck!


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

yea thats basically what i have been doing except with the shim since i dont have any knives bigger then 14" .Its exactly 14" from bead to bead so the 14" knife doesnt reach both bead lips.Its a real pain right around the lally post(steel) .I tried using a 3" and 4" knife feathering the mud in really lightly but with the curve the end of the knife keeps putting gouges. I have two of these arches to do. the other is a bit easier though because its not as wide so i used a trowel.Still a pain around the post though.If the post was square it would be easy. Its the spots on the inside of the post at say 3 and 9 oclock that are killing me.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Generally, we carry no bigger than a 12" knife. If something is wider, it will get a lap in the middle. Something that wide is difficult to coat without leaving it hollow when using a knife sized for it.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

What is the biggest trowel you can get your hands on? One long enough might put the handle to the side of the post. Or just use a knife and lap it in the middle. This should keep the handle to the side of the post.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Get a pice if base board, and cut it 18". Fill it up, wet the base board and screed it.


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

try to get a 16 inch knife, overfill with the 14, then wipe litely with the 16 it will be nice and smooth..I have knives from 1/2 inch to 24 inches...use all regularly!! minimal sanding!!


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

I've seen tappers use a metal stud for something like this. also seen them use a stud to feather out humps or bad joints in the wall


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Unfortunately nobody sells bigger knives or trowels by me locally that i know of and no time to order . Thats a good idea with the baseboard or metal studs .A bit more solid then my flimsy cardboard shim lol.

At first i did try to do each side and leave a lap in the middle however i was making a mess trying to manouver around the post. I guess anyway im still gonna have to do some shape sanding. Im trying to do it in a bunch of coats of hot mud building it little by little to keep the coats thin and leave it a little hollow in the middle until its ready for a last coat of Ap or LW


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

FAB said:


> yea thats basically what i have been doing except with the shim since i dont have any knives bigger then 14" .Its exactly 14" from bead to bead so the 14" knife doesnt reach both bead lips.Its a real pain right around the lally post(steel) .I tried using a 3" and 4" knife feathering the mud in really lightly but with the curve the end of the knife keeps putting gouges. I have two of these arches to do. the other is a bit easier though because its not as wide so i used a trowel.Still a pain around the post though.If the post was square it would be easy. Its the spots on the inside of the post at say 3 and 9 oclock that are killing me.


 Run one side at a time and let it dry, then the other side. Don't need a wide knife. Don't be afraid to build it up then sand it down, it's just one of those things you don't run into often. If you try to float all the way across it is just gonna be hollow anyway unless you coat it umpteen times.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Tell the ignorant mofo who thought up such a stupid idea to finish it himself. Ive finished some stupid crap in my days but never anything quite like that.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

The first thing you will need Is a sawzall with a metal cutting blade.
After you remove that freakin pole A 14'' trowel should do the trick!


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## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

silverstilts said:


> Run one side at a time and let it dry, then the other side. Don't need a wide knife. Don't be afraid to build it up then sand it down, it's just one of those things you don't run into often. If you try to float all the way across it is just gonna be hollow anyway unless you coat it umpteen times.


I'd go with that. Not easy to do, so have to be patient with [email protected]


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Magic said:


> Tell the ignorant mofo who thought up such a stupid idea to finish it himself. Ive finished some stupid crap in my days but never anything quite like that.


 Come on now what would life be like without any challenges...makes things interesting. Could be more challenging say a sharp radius wall above a fireplace with an inset arch inside of that for some vase or something the homeowner wants to set apart , I think what he is dealing with is childs play.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

forestbhoy said:


> I'd go with that. Not easy to do, so have to be patient with [email protected]


:thumbsup:


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## Smearologist (Apr 10, 2014)

There's at least 4 openings in that small area that are all square.
WTF is the point of a radius opening that exposes a column that was already boxed?


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

thanks guys  lol . I was the one who built it . I wish i could sawzall and remove the beam but unfortunatly it holds the house up. There was a steel i beam put in running from front of house to back due to finding out that when the home was built in 1920 they used 2x8 joists spanning 20ft(well overspanned) so the i-beam was really needed to prevent sagging down the road.The post wasnt boxed out originally ,its new and happened to land right in the middled of a door way so the framing there is all new too. This house had the worst framing ever. I guess there was no codes back in 1920

The reason for the arch there was because the homeowner didnt want it boxed out which will close off the main area where natural light comes into the house from the big bow window in front. Since the post had to be there because of the foundation point i figured id make the best of it and give it a little design while still allowing in the natural light.The homeowner loves it so thats what matters I got the idea from the Trim-tex site here which is similar

http://www.drywallart.com/gallery/room-type/living-room/

When its done and the post is trimmed out it should look like the post is part of the drywall. Theres also gonna be some lighted ceiling design that is gonna flow into the arch. First time trying something fancy.I may have caught the trim-tex bug after seeing all the cool looking things that can be done lol.

In this job i am the framer,rocker and taper as well as the flooring guy etc. I have been a tiler mainly for years. Theres something about drywall finishing thats pretty fun for me though. I think its the fact that its the part of the job when the house really starts coming together.


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

Hey FAB, Most of the time the crazy MOFO's who think outside the box and aren't afraid to try new things are a lot happier than mean and crabby people! Almost all the professionals who's work is featured on our web sites are busier and choosier than ever and they tend to earn a higher wage too and not to forget they leave those projects with a great sense of pride.

Joe


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Trim-Tex said:


> Hey FAB, Most of the time the crazy MOFO's who think outside the box and aren't afraid to try new things are a lot happier than mean and crabby people! Almost all the professionals who's work is featured on our web sites are busier and choosier than ever and they tend to earn a higher wage too and not to forget they leave those projects with a great sense of pride.
> 
> Joe


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::whistling2:


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Think that's kinda cool looking!

More pics when it's finished:thumbsup:

Would look awesome with some Fresco Harmony:whistling2:

(Shameless product plug!!!)


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

my attack as your looking at the pics you posted....... fill to edge of post from 3 o'clock to 9 o'clock . let that set up , then fill in the 12 , 6 o clock areas . you will have a small 3" area on each side of the post to free hand in but you will have a edge to go by from your first 3 and 9 o clock pass. I would do this in 20 min set mud. when the mud is set but not dry take a 2" knife or so a lightly carve off any ridges if you have any then do the same with premix mud but do your 3 9 one day and your 12 and 6 the other. its one of those areas where you have to take your time with it or when your done it will look like you were in a hurry.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Get a pice if base board, and cut it 18". Fill it up, wet the base board and screed it.


You are a plasterer !!! :yes:


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Trim-Tex said:


> Hey FAB, Most of the time the crazy MOFO's who think outside the box and aren't afraid to try new things are a lot happier than mean and crabby people! Almost all the professionals who's work is featured on our web sites are busier and choosier than ever and they tend to earn a higher wage too and not to forget they leave those projects with a great sense of pride.
> 
> Joe


I can see that.There is some amazing work on the site. Question,on the site there is a pic of a orange room with white trim around a doorway. How was that done,just a extra layer of drywall with Lbead around the edges ? Also maybe not the place to ask but when i got my shipment of step-a-bull arch it was missing the cleaning tool i think .is it possible to send one out.It would make it easier i think filling the arch bead notches. Unless the cleaning tool is also the miter marker too,if thats the case i did get it. 



mld said:


> Think that's kinda cool looking!
> 
> More pics when it's finished:thumbsup:
> 
> ...


That fresco harmony looks pretty cool. HO already has the paint on hand . That wall's face will be copper color which is a semi-gloss 2 stage paint  so i guess i will have to level5 a few walls expecially with the can lights right over the walls. 

I am starting to think that post would look better squared instead of round ,maybe with some decorative beads or reveal bead. it would make the finishing a little easier too. I will post pics when its all done.This job is gonna take a while though.Its the never ending job. Basically i had to redo everything that a shoddy contractor that was fired originally did. Worst drywall hanging iv ever seen. I demoed almost all of it,fixed a ton of crooked and out of level framing issues and rehung new drywall.I left one long wall that i thought i could just fix however when i started looking close yesterday its a disaster too. Seams on the side of every window thats already cracking,butts to factory edges everywhere with 3" thick layers of mud ,screw pops everywhere.The drywall actually moves when you press on it.it was taped with mesh tape and AP mud .Then to top it off the mud was not even sanded and primer was just put over it.The HO said the contractor told her that he primes and then sands.The funniest part about that comment was i found the empty buckets of primer and its behr concrete primer lmao. I tried to hit it with sandpaper and it doesnt sand at all.Its like a rock. Unbelievable !!!!!!!!!! He wins the worst contractor of the year award for sure. Its like he followed the book of what not to do and thought it was a how to book.Not to mention when demoing i found a bunch of screws through electrical wires and all little 12" squares of insulation here and there. If the HO was not a friend i wouldnt touch this job with a 20' pole sander. I gotta post of pics of the shoddyness so everyone can have a good laugh. 

I have been building the arch up with 45 mud. I just built up the center and ill sand it when it dries with a 20" long block then feather in the sides with a smaller knife.


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

FYI, every installation sheet we have can be found at www.trim-tex.com 

http://www.trim-tex.com/installation/Step A Bull Arch.pdf

You can make a filling tool for the arches and a cleaning tool for the straight runs from the bead itself, score and trim off the step area and mud legs away from the radius , usually about and inch long. Leave the rest for a handle . You can use this technique for any of our radius beads and Niche bead too
:yes:
Joe


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Thanks,did read the sheet but somehow missed the modified application tool.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

moore said:


> You are a plasterer !!! :yes:


 in the time of chimpanzees, I was a monkey.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Here are just a couple pics of the shoddy work this last contractor did before i started redoing all the work. Id say this is about 5% of the issues. Ill try to post some more later.Im sure it will be a good laugh. BTW HO took this guy to court and just won


notice the cracked seams above window too






Notice the butts from floor to ceiling and all humped out. The large coated recessed joints are not recessed joints. They are recessed on the top and bottom sheet with a 3" sliver with butt edges between the two sheets lmao.Couldnt just use 54" sheets or at least put another recessed joint at the bottom. 

Did that all through the house since the ceilings are slightly over 8'


Notice this demoed piece .It has both paper tape and mesh tape all coated with premix AP mud. I also found multiple corners where he extended the wall but left the old metal corner bead in so basically 2 metal corner beads on the same corner








check out the army of screws under the drywall here not to mention i found bx electrical wire actually around the bottom of the joist 






Didnt sand any of his horrible finishing but did prime it. This is the worst because its not even sandable now.He used exterior primer for concrete and metal garage doors. Its bulletproof.Tried sanding with 80 grit and it didnt make a mark in it.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

little mouse hole


??





The ceiling curved up about 4" lol


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Look at all the humps and waves in the ceiling. Found out he didnt even remove the old screws from the old drywall before hanging the new nor did he feather out the joints


When i asked HO why this corner was so crooked she said it was much worse but he used a whole 5 gallon bucket of mud to try making it better which he redid many times because the mud kept cracking




no cornerbead


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Somebody has a chore ahead of them on that one!:whistling2:

I would have sued him too!! I can't help to wonder why they let him get that far before stopping the hack.:blink:


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

moore said:


> Somebody has a chore ahead of them on that one!:whistling2:
> 
> :blink:


Tell me about it. Only reason im doing this job is HO is a friend. HO asked me "can you fix this" me: " Im sorry but i wouldnt even try to fix that disaster but i can demo and replace it all" 

HO was working while most of this happened.Shoddy contractor did this mess quick too . Hanging,finishing,priming in like 2 days trying to cover up as much as he could. If it werent for the horrible finishing it may not have been caught. Like i said those pics are only like 5% of the shoddy work. As we started demo'ing is when we found the real mess and not only with drywall. Major subfloor issues,electrical issues and safety hazards like drywall screws through wires.cut joists.unconnected plumbing.

I honestly could not believe my eyes. Iv seen some bad things in my day but this takes the cake x1000. When your demo'ing drywall and studs are coming out with the drywall your like WTF. Makes you think how in the world can anyone that does that quality work get a contractors licesnse.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

FAB said:


> Look at all the humps and waves in the ceiling. Found out he didnt even remove the old screws from the old drywall before hanging the new nor did he feather out the joints
> 
> 
> When i asked HO why this corner was so crooked she said it was much worse but he used a whole 5 gallon bucket of mud to try making it better which he redid many times because the mud kept cracking
> ...


Looking good LOL:blink:
Nothing like a challenge (NOT)


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