# Custom textures... Have any pics?



## cooper

Hey, anybody have any pictures of their 'custom' textures? If you do have custom textures.... 

I'm going to take a couple pics of some of our recent work for a little portfolio for advertising. Just looking for some new ideas on texture... Maybe we can trade common textures in the northwest with common northeast textures... :thumbsup:


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## rabb

*ok*

can you show us some of your pic please


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## cooper

Yeah, I'll post a couple of the inside of my own house this weekend.


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## TooledUp

I notice that you guys seem to use nothing but mud to apply textures. We use a texturing compound here. It's much more versitile and you can get some stunning effects with it. Is it available in the USA/North America or is mud pretty much standard?

Some examples of texturing compound below (not my work but I do apply these patterns)


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## KingOfDrywall

I did see a few "texturing compounds".....but after reading it, it was nothing more than a fancy labeled joint compound....lol. From what I read on the contents of the product, it seemed that regular usg joint compound and the product I was looking at were almost identical. The "texture compound" was simply diluted and not as thick.
? That was my observation though.??


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## TooledUp

Yeah there is a difference. You couldn't tape with a view to a painted finish with it and you can't sand it. We can buy ready mix but I think most prefer the bagged stuff that you mix with water. I haven't done any knock down that I've seen mentioned a lot but I don't think texturing compound would be very suitable for that judging by the method for getting the pattern.


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## KingOfDrywall

*just curious......*

What are some of the names of the texturing compounds you have available over there in your area? We do have some here, but very few, and they are not worth the extra money because the end result will still be the same. The point I was trying to make was that here in the USA much of what is made available is nothing more than colorful marketing.....a fancy jazzed up label. My favorite ((which I also manufactured/labeled/sold a few)) was the "NO POCK MUD ADDITIVE".......lol. Chemically speaking there is no magic solution that is gonna make someone a better hand finisher.
You'd get the same results adding a little dish soap to your compound.
When I seen that advertised I laughed my BUTT OFF!!! Damned all:thumbup: those Snake Oil Salesmen.....LMAO


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## TooledUp

> Chemically speaking there is no magic solution that is gonna make someone a better hand finisher.


:thumbup: I suppose that depends what chemical they've been taking lol

Texturing compounds are actually cheaper than finishing compounds here so I guess that's why they're more popular. The most common brands are Lafarge http://www.lafargeplasterboard.co.u...ng/Texture/Finishing_Texture_full_section.pdf

and Artex http://www.bpbartex.co.uk/products/decorative_products/artex_textured_finishes_menu.aspx

Texturing seems to go through phases of popularity here. It's not 'the in-thing' at the moment but I would use around 1/3 of a 50 pound/$18.00 bag on an average (12' x '15') ceiling in a residential house and be done well withiin 2 hours - That's sheeting up, priming the ceiling and texturing. Around $180.00 and mostly profit.

Like I said tho, it's one of those things that go in and out off fashion but there is money to be made when it's popular if you can master some of the more advanced patterns such as using the combs etc.


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## Drywaller

Here are a couple of knockdown textures with color variances I did at a theme park.They wanted color in the compound before I sprayed.
I thought they wanted 2 different colors as I sprayed the first time,then they didnt like it so I had to spray a second coat all one color.I like the first method myself ,But it wasnt up to me.
I really like those hand applied textures tooledup showed.


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## Drywaller

Here is the other pic


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## Sir Mixalot

Here's picture of a skip trowel I did after converting a drop ceililg to a lighted Trey.


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## Frankawitz

I like that ceiling, the first picture looks like there was a repair made, was there a bathroom above it?


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## JCardoza

Here's a texture I did a couple years ago.. has color and sand mixed in the texture, then I painted the inside of the windows.


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## JCardoza

Some other textures I've done...


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## jim

did this 20 years ago


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## Frankawitz

Jim,
That is a wild ceiling, reminds me of when I was a kid and we went to Jesse James Caverns.:thumbsup: That had to take sometime, how did you get them to hang like that with out them breaking off? What did you use?


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## amestaper

:notworthy: Jim, never seen nothing like that before. Simply awesome.


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## S&SDRYWALL

Here are a few of ours. First one is is a racetrack we are doing. 2nd pic is what we do most walls in. and 3rd pic is most ceilings. sorry for kinda distant pic in last pic, hard when it was that bright white.


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## moore

jim said:


> did this 20 years ago
> View attachment 26


WOW !!


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## chris

jim said:


> did this 20 years ago
> View attachment 26


 Does that stuff have asbestos in it?:whistling2:


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## moore

Bag pattern . Look's like a light popcorn ,without the popcorn.
I know ,, It looks heavy. IT IS.,, But it works.


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## 2buckcanuck

2buckjr's 1st attempt at knock down.

My shoulders are f'cked so had the kid doing the spray in these pics. The farmer had a huge gas powered air tank thingy that was in the back of his pick up truck. Our 2nd attempt we rented a machine (not shown here) done with the dreaded hopper.

I thought it sorta looked ok, till I seen our regular spray guys work (jose') on Monday. His was way thicker/deeper depth, and looked way better, but he has a good spray rig (no hopper).

Feel free to bash away, but how do you get it thicker looking, we had to mix the spray mud extremely runny, the 1st time in these pics, I will admit we had a bad set up. but even when we rented a machine, we still had to mix the mud way too runny to get it to push out the hopper ( i hate hoppers).

We only spray on my own jobs, company has it's own spray guys as I stated. But jose's work (sorry no pic) is thicker and the over all pattern is about the size of a 25 cent piece, ours our more like the size of a dime. I always got jose' to spray my jobs, but too be honest he makes too damn much money on them, money that could be in our pockets.

So how do we get it thicker and bigger looking, we had the hopper on the biggest hole, actual knock down mud mixed way runnier than bazooka mud, and I forgot to check what the pressure was:blink:

Is it b/c jose' has a hopper-less spray rig, do we half to wait for Rhardman to get his rig done.....hint hint:jester:


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## moore

Looks great to me. :thumbsup:never done the spray. ,, but willing to try.


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## M T Buckets Painting

2buck, to get bigger blobs on the wall, I think that is what you are wanting. Try decreasing your air flow and increasing your material flow. If you weren't using the largest orifice tip, most hoppers have an adjustment on them. Usually there is a knob on the back of the pistol that controls the flow needle. Turn this knob outward(loosen) to get more material flow. 

I normally use about 30-35 psi air pressure to spray out of a hopper gun. More pressure than that will usually try to atomize the material into smaller particles which is not helpful. Compound should be pretty runny also. Some of the larger texture rigs come with a viscosity ball that is used to get the compound to the right consistency. I tried using once and it seemed like a waste of my time, although it may be a tremendous help to others.

I always spray in a circular pattern to keep a more consistent texture. It seems that if only spraying in a straight line, the middle of your spray pattern is ok, then the sides are light. And spraying over it more seems to end up with too much material. The circular spray pattern seems to help me achieve the best results. Yours does look very consistent in the pics.


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## chris

*agreed*

The further you can pull trigger back the more mud you get.We dont spray KD frankly because it is ugly Imo. KD is made to cover up shotty work,like popcorn ceiling. More mud ,less air= big globs. I spray side to side starting at top working down ,then up down, walking down wall.I have found that it helps with consistency.If you are wanting a real heavy kd I would ask why 1rst:blink: .Try to talk them out of it .I have found spraymachines are near impssible to get a consistent pattern. Hopper and big compressor,control airflow at hopper:thumbup:


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## Mudslinger

....


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## Mudslinger

....


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## cdwoodcox

2buckcanuck said:


> 2buckjr's 1st attempt at knock down.
> 
> My shoulders are f'cked so had the kid doing the spray in these pics. The farmer had a huge gas powered air tank thingy that was in the back of his pick up truck. Our 2nd attempt we rented a machine (not shown here) done with the dreaded hopper.
> 
> I thought it sorta looked ok, till I seen our regular spray guys work (jose') on Monday. His was way thicker/deeper depth, and looked way better, but he has a good spray rig (no hopper).
> 
> Feel free to bash away, but how do you get it thicker looking, we had to mix the spray mud extremely runny, the 1st time in these pics, I will admit we had a bad set up. but even when we rented a machine, we still had to mix the mud way too runny to get it to push out the hopper ( i hate hoppers).
> 
> We only spray on my own jobs, company has it's own spray guys as I stated. But jose's work (sorry no pic) is thicker and the over all pattern is about the size of a 25 cent piece, ours our more like the size of a dime. I always got jose' to spray my jobs, but too be honest he makes too damn much money on them, money that could be in our pockets.
> 
> So how do we get it thicker and bigger looking, we had the hopper on the biggest hole, actual knock down mud mixed way runnier than bazooka mud, and I forgot to check what the pressure was:blink:
> 
> Is it b/c jose' has a hopper-less spray rig, do we half to wait for Rhardman to get his rig done.....hint hint:jester:


That looks good for his first time spraying the hopper is never going to look like the big spray machines it is too hard to get the size of mud or the profile (depth) with the hopper. I always offer them as 2 different textures since they do have such different looks. Some people like the smaller more subtle look. 
I don't know Canadian prices but here in northern Indiana you can get a decent graco for around 2,300.00 I don't know what you pay Jose but they pay for themselves pretty quick. And I'll bet you could spray it with bad shoulders.


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## Mudslinger

....


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## 2buckcanuck

M T Buckets Painting said:


> 2buck, to get bigger blobs on the wall, I think that is what you are wanting. Try decreasing your air flow and increasing your material flow. If you weren't using the largest orifice tip, most hoppers have an adjustment on them. Usually there is a knob on the back of the pistol that controls the flow needle. Turn this knob outward(loosen) to get more material flow.
> 
> I normally use about 30-35 psi air pressure to spray out of a hopper gun. More pressure than that will usually try to atomize the material into smaller particles which is not helpful. Compound should be pretty runny also. Some of the larger texture rigs come with a viscosity ball that is used to get the compound to the right consistency. I tried using once and it seemed like a waste of my time, although it may be a tremendous help to others.
> 
> I always spray in a circular pattern to keep a more consistent texture. It seems that if only spraying in a straight line, the middle of your spray pattern is ok, then the sides are light. And spraying over it more seems to end up with too much material. The circular spray pattern seems to help me achieve the best results. Yours does look very consistent in the pics.


thanks MT, might be doing another spray job next week if I get the job, should know tomorrow. I will be re-reading your post.

here is the type of spray machine we can only rent around here, not the same name brand, but they look the same http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Drywall/Gun_Hopper_Units/13-181.htm I just half to remember how to adjust the pressure,

I did a lot of texture/popcorn when I was younger, was just starting to do/experiment with KD till I started working full time with a large DW company. I thought mine looked good till I seen our spray guys work from the DWC I work for,,,,,,,I got to match their work,,,,obviously I can't ask them how to.........B/C.....:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> The further you can pull trigger back the more mud you get.We dont spray KD frankly because it is ugly Imo. KD is made to cover up shotty work,like popcorn ceiling. More mud ,less air= big globs. I spray side to side starting at top working down ,then up down, walking down wall.I have found that it helps with consistency.If you are wanting a real heavy kd I would ask why 1rst:blink: .Try to talk them out of it .I have found spraymachines are near impssible to get a consistent pattern. Hopper and big compressor,control airflow at hopper:thumbup:


Mudslinger pretty well answered the Question why????

One it's what the customer wants, so give it to them.

And the other, it's damn good money where I live, Lets put it this way, our spray guys are way over paid IMO. I get they can sit for days on end with no work, but on the other hand, in one days work, they will half to spray a few houses in one day, and make more in one day than I do in a week, mind you they do half to work hard that one day.....

Before KD came to our area, most tapers did their own spray (texture/popcorn). but when it came to the KD, every bodies KD looked different. So the DWC would employ one spray guy, so everything would look universally the same. No more explaining why so and so house looked different from the last one.

Don't forget, this is communist Canada, not good to be different :thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

Cdwoodcox and mudslinger

I hear you guys, 85% of my work is through a DWC now, I can't get into too much detail, Lets just say everyone calls me 2buck at work all the time now. Too many eyes watching this site...(Ones my DWC boss, who's the best DWC in the world by the way:thumbup

But if all goes right with the side jobs, I will invest in a good machine, I can't stand the hopper, but then again, if the company swamps us with work, then all my talk of doing spray will come to a abrupt end fast.

Just depends how this year goes, really bad weather so far, and we don't price against our company either. I'm a company man 1st now. I always turned down work in my small town I live in. Now I'm taking the work on, and guess what everyone wants on their ceilings....KD

It's a wait and see how it goes, I'm not getting younger so.....those side jobs can kill you when your 49


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## Mudslinger

....


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I hear you guys, 85% of my work is through a DWC now, I can't get into too much detail, Lets just say everyone calls me 2buck at work all the time now. Too many eyes watching this site...(*Ones my DWC boss, who's the best DWC in the world by the way*:thumbup


:laughing:

This is high praise coming from the bestest most harderest working taper in the whole world. You definitely deserve a raise in your footage rates. :jester:


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## chris

everywhere is different .I havnt seen or heard of any1 in our area{Idaho} that spray a kd. Motel 6 tex is what we call it. I have skimmed over more kd than applied.Have used all spray machines made up to about 4 yrs ago and still prefer hopper,some guys may have better luck with machines just not me.What is it that bothers u so much about hoppers?:blink:


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## Mudslinger

....


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## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> everywhere is different .I havnt seen or heard of any1 in our area{Idaho} that spray a kd. Motel 6 tex is what we call it. I have skimmed over more kd than applied.Have used all spray machines made up to about 4 yrs ago and still prefer hopper,some guys may have better luck with machines just not me.What is it that bothers u so much about hoppers?:blink:


I'm not sure who your referring to Chris, but to me personally the hopper murders my shoulders, 49 and my shoulders are beat up. You can reach for a salt and pepper shaker across the kitchen table, and a lightening bolt of pain will fire up your arm. There are many ways to work around the pain, but not with the hopper. Your guaranteed to be a hurting unit the next day.

There's the cortisone shots you can take, they fill your shoulder joints full of it. I hear they work great, but when they wear out, your sometimes worse off than you were before

2buckjr got one a few weeks back. I convinced him to be a guinea pig, I will wait and see how his went. 29 and his shoulders are F^^ked already:blink:


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> :laughing:
> 
> This is high praise coming from the bestest most harderest working taper in the whole world. You definitely deserve a raise in your footage rates. :jester:


I shall half to quote Mudslinger "I'm just a poorly paid slave otherwise known as a drywaller."

Thank you oh Master Drywall Contractor









thank you oh mister tax man









Thank you mister gas man


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## moore

Cortisone shots help for a short period of time. Don't really solve the problem.
ME,,, Both shoulders,, right elbow,, right hand,,, left knee,,, both ankles. 43 .yeah this trade is an art alright. The art of endurance :yes:.
Never had the shot.


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## smisner50s




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## moore

smisner50s said:


>


scrape those titties off dude.no joke ,I go back next day ,and lightly scrape ceilings with 14'' broad knife . Trust me you'll like the look.


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## smisner50s

moore said:


> scrape those titties off dude.no joke ,I go back next day ,and lightly scrape ceilings with 14'' broad knife . Trust me you'll like the look.


 ill try that..thanks. most of my tex are spray applied..not much stomp:thumbsup:


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## moore

______flat.. less cobwebs


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## smisner50s

moore said:


> ______flat.. less cobwebs


Def looks better


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## M T Buckets Painting

Titties???? Now they are flat with no cobwebs? How about some nice humped butts?

Sorry guys, I just had to......


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## 2buckcanuck

M T Buckets Painting said:


> Titties???? Now they are flat with no cobwebs? How about some nice humped butts?
> 
> Sorry guys, I just had to......


Yes the terms of drywall:whistling2: If someone was listening in another room , they would wonder what your doing 

EXAMPLES

" is your butt tight"
" You need to fill that butt more"
" how many inches?"
" hit those mouse tits in"
" get it in there"
" Is your end tight"

The list could go on :whistling2:


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## SlimPickins

I thought I would toss this in here...

This is the plaster job I was talking about in the Durabond/one coat plaster thread.

I was working the high parts of the walls while my friend did the lower parts. The darker green in the bedroom hasn't cured yet, and the darker red on the left is where he was experimenting with red stain, since the wall wasn't rich like he had hoped. I'm not sure if the belly band has fully cured yet either...I'm also not sure if the ultra-fill on the joints was the best idea either...In my opinion 90 minute would have been a better choice, but sometimes I just do as I am asked to do. This stuff looks really good up close and personal.

PS-that's his new Festool sander in the foreground in the systainer....the 6". He's got more tools than I do


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## 2buckcanuck

The top part looks much better than the bottom half slim :whistling2:

Are you going to be there for the buffing/waxing or what ever they call it. I've never seen that done. Though I did veneer before, we never tinted or waxed etc...

It would be cool to see before and after shots:thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> The top part looks much better than the bottom half slim :whistling2:
> 
> Are you going to be there for the buffing/waxing or what ever they call it. I've never seen that done. Though I did veneer before, we never tinted or waxed etc...
> 
> It would be cool to see before and after shots:thumbsup:


The problem with shooting this stuff at an angle is the variation in the glossiness of the finish, it just looks blotchy  When I stopped by this afternoon to grab a check and snap the photos he showed me a few different options for sealing it, one of them makes no visible change to the color, but he's thinking of going with a glaze that will deepen the colors and highlight the variations. I have no idea what the stuff is _supposed _to look like, but it looks pretty great when you are right there looking at it. There are some flaws to be sure, but most of them tie in nicely to the "hand of the maker" finish. I won't lie....angles that were coated in the same batch look not so hot, but when we had separate batches and could work a hard line they came out really clean.

I will definitely be taking more photos when the job is totally done, for his portfolio and mine.


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## moore

Got a call on the blue board thin coat two weeks ago ,, small job.
never done it before . Turned it down. Thanks for the insight
had an old guy here , that was the master of plaster . within the state of Virginia ,,, pasted away. this old man was GOOD. his helper was as good, but drinks more than works. A dying breed . the old man died a VERY rich man!


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## SlimPickins

An unfortunate update:

Went back to grab a bag of plaster and some tint to work up some samples for another job, and peeked in to see how the job looked when fully dry. All of the joints coated with the ultra-fill are showing. It's not like they are humped or showing due to shadowing, but more like the tinted plaster is a different color over that material. My guess is that the ultra-fill has a different suction rate than the blue board. I don't know why he was so sold on the ultra-fill idea  Before I head off to do another one of these jobs, I need to know if regular hot mud is going to give the same effect :confused1: Is it a better idea to skip filling the joints and do a double back with the plaster instead? Argh.....I despise imperfection. He's fine with it, but it's driving me nuts.


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## 2buckcanuck

Gee I think ds john will be busy watching his bruins in the play offs, he would know.

Just lay the tape with the hot mud, but coat/fill the bevell with plaster would be my bet


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Gee I think ds john will be busy watching his bruins in the play offs, he would know.
> 
> Just lay the tape with the hot mud, but coat/fill the bevell with plaster would be my bet


Yeah, I've been watching videos for a while now. All plaster seems the way to go, although none of the videos show the tinted stuff. Oh well, I can always watch more videos about working when I'm not working.....but I'm going to wait until tomorrow.


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## chris

Sun Valley Smooth:thumbsup:


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## Bevelation

2buckcanuck said:


> Yes the terms of drywall:whistling2: If someone was listening in another room , they would wonder what your doing
> 
> EXAMPLES
> 
> " is your butt tight"
> " You need to fill that butt more"
> " how many inches?"
> " hit those mouse tits in"
> " get it in there"
> " Is your end tight"
> 
> The list could go on :whistling2:


The odd time there would be a butt or two in a large closet on a HO boarded job. I'd say "Cover your butts before you come out of the closet".

Lately I've been referring to mud as "what-what", so I'd say "You need to put a little WHAT-WHAT in the BUTT!"

"Scrape off that little dink"
"Are you gonna 5-inch the three ways?"


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## Bevelation

moore said:


> ______flat.. less cobwebs


 Puckered asshole.


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## moore

Bevelation said:


> Puckered asshole.[/QUOTE
> never had that problem eh. that says a lot .


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## Bevelation

moore said:


> never had that problem eh. that says a lot .


 Look at the picture.


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## SlimPickins

Bevelation said:


> Puckered asshole.


That name isn't going to go over very well with the homeowners....he should stick with "stipple":thumbsup:


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## chris

sphfeencter maybe


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## Bevelation

SlimPickins said:


> That name isn't going to go over very well with the homeowners....he should stick with "stipple":thumbsup:


Yes, yes it will.

It'll encourage them to choose another pattern.


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## moore

Bevelation said:


> Look at the picture.


:thumbsup:gotcha.


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## igorson

jim said:


> did this 20 years ago
> View attachment 26


Is this knockdown or popcorn i want to know :blink:it now
http://1drywall.com/textures.html


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## Checkers

"Worm Farm"









"Venetian"









"Skip Trowel"


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## moore

Yeah I know ....No cigar ,,but I had 2 days before the floor men came in...
With no heads up.. Not to mention never done this chit before.

The family room had straw In this [stucco??] 

I stopped on the side of the road ,,and stole A hand full out of a round bail..
The dining room will get book shelf's ... Most of my work will be covered .

Even still,,,, I THINK .. I did OK


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## moore

SORRY those pics are not the best. I need to wait for the camera to focus.
I'm a taper . don't have the time..:no:


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## moore

a bit more clear ... I got to go shuck some corn...:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Yeah I know ....No cigar ,,but I had 2 days before the floor men came in...
> With no heads up.. Not to mention never done this chit before.
> 
> The family room had straw In this [stucco??]
> 
> I stopped on the side of the road ,,and stole A hand full out of a round bail..
> The dining room will get book shelf's ... Most of my work will be covered .
> 
> Even still,,,, I THINK .. I did OK


Cool

The Master that taught me taping, worked down in the states along time ago, he said one thing he liked where he worked was they liked rough work, and that we are too smooth obsessed where we lived. He told me about putting straw in the mud, but I thought he was trying to pull my leg.

And now I see it:thumbsup:


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## SlimPickins

Not my usual skip, but I do as I'm asked to do (no matter how bad it looks).

I still have to get over to those folks house where I did the clay...now THAT looks badass. This will have to do for now.


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## kcchiefsfan1982

yeah how did you do that ceiling that looks like it is in a cave? I want to do that to my garage! Im about to skim out my garage and have some fun with some different textures!!! LET THE GAMES BEGIN!


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## igorson

Did you see somthing like that







I meen tined knockdown. Sometimes it is going ugly:thumbup:

http://1drywall.com/textures.html


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## smisner50s

Here is one i did tonight with a crowes foot stomp brush with a twist than knocked down


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## Philma Crevices

Knocked down crow foot? I like it!


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## moore

smisner50s said:


> Here is one i did tonight with a crowes foot stomp brush with a twist than knocked down


 I like that smisner. great look .:thumbsup:


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## chris

" With a Twist "


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## cdwoodcox

Looks good


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## smisner50s

A few more from my crowes foot knockdown


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## chris

Are you gonna show us what youre stomping that with?:thumbsup:


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## smisner50s

chris said:


> Are you gonna show us what youre stomping that with?:thumbsup:


 All in good time my friend...hahah..
Im gonna paint it all one color than rub another color on the highs than glaze the whole thing ..should look pretty good...i hope


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## PrecisionTaping

*Knockdown Ceilings*

For my ceilings I dont use any type of special bag mix.
Just regular CGC Machine Mud. I use Machine Mud for absolutely everything. Tape, Beads, Fill, Skim, Designs. You name it, Machine Mud! 








Here's some pics of a house I did last week.


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## smisner50s

crows foot stomp knockdown after paint


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## smisner50s

Here is the finish paint .I sponged rubed to different colors on it.


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## smisner50s

:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> :thumbup:


That sponge rub makes it look real good, makes it look more rich


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> That sponge rub makes it look real good, makes it look more rich


I have to agree! The sponge and accent paint really pulled it out and brought it together. Excellent job!


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## Sir Mixalot

From old popcorn texture to an updated skip trowel texture.


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## 2buckcanuck

You should show how you did that, that looks cool









They don't do skip trowel where I am, never seen anyone do it. I guess it's a lost art around here. it's 75% knock down, 20% painted ceilings, or a lite orange peel.:yes:


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> You should show how you did that, that looks cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't do skip trowel where I am, never seen anyone do it. I guess it's a lost art around here. it's 75% knock down, 20% painted ceilings, or a lite orange peel.:yes:


I agree with 2Buck! I dont live far from him and I have no idea how to do it either. Never seen it around these parts so I have no clue how its done. It would be neat to learn! :thumbsup:


----------



## Sir Mixalot

2buckcanuck said:


> You should show how you did that, that looks cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't do skip trowel where I am, never seen anyone do it. I guess it's a lost art around here. it's 75% knock down, 20% painted ceilings, or a lite orange peel.:yes:


Thanks. Yeah, I've been wanting to do a sKip trowel video for a while. Just haven't yet.

For Skip trowel, I prefer to use a hawk and knife. :whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Sir Mixalot said:


> Thanks. Yeah, I've been wanting to do a sKip trowel video for a while. Just haven't yet.
> 
> For Skip trowel, I prefer to use a hawk and knife. :whistling2:


bring it,, any tools you throw at us, we can do it,,,,, were professionals:whistling2:

That would be cool if you could make a vid though:yes:


----------



## moore

Sir Mixalot said:


> Thanks. Yeah, I've been wanting to do a sKip trowel video for a while. Just haven't yet.
> 
> For Skip trowel, I prefer to use a hawk and knife. :whistling2:


 I would like to see that vid mixalot.:yes:


----------



## Philma Crevices

Skip is easy to pick up. Loose ap mud, get a bit on your 12, trowel it on light pressure, keep going in different directions, over lapping however ya want, theres many different styles/patterns you can do, my favorite texture :thumbup:

Always looks awesome painted flat on ceilings


----------



## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> bring it,, any tools you throw at us, we can do it,,,,, were professionals:whistling2:
> 
> That would be cool if you could make a vid though:yes:


Bring it on eh 2Buck! We got this!



moore said:


> I would like to see that vid mixalot.:yes:


If he doesn't make a vid showing us how i'll just practice at my parents house until I get it right and make one! Haha!



Philma Crevices said:


> Skip is easy to pick up. Loose ap mud, get a bit on your 12, trowel it on light pressure, keep going in different directions, over lapping however ya want, theres many different styles/patterns you can do, my favorite texture :thumbup:
> 
> Always looks awesome painted flat on ceilings


Thats it!? Thats all you do!? Go around the whole ceiling with a little mud on a 12" trowel and just do a pattern!? 
No spraying? Air compressors!? No putting up plastic over entire walls!?
I think im in love....


----------



## Sir Mixalot

2buckcanuck said:


> bring it,, any tools you throw at us, we can do it,,,,, were professionals:whistling2:


I'm sure. :thumbup: Hell anything will work in a pinch though. I've used a mud pan, custom modified cardboard, even a bucket lid. :laughing:


----------



## Sir Mixalot

Philma Crevices said:


> Skip is easy to pick up. Loose ap mud, get a bit on your 12, trowel it on light pressure, keep going in different directions, over lapping however ya want, theres many different styles/patterns you can do, my favorite texture :thumbup:
> 
> Always looks awesome painted flat on ceilings


There are many differeny variations of skip trowel. We put sand in our mix and I only apply it in one direction. Then knock it down in the other direction.:thumbup:
Keep in mind that the definition of skip trowel varies regionally throught the US and Canada. :yes:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Sir Mixalot said:


> I'm sure. :thumbup: Hell anything will work in a pinch though. I've used a mud pan, custom modified cardboard, even a bucket lid. :laughing:


Don't worry 2Buck's not that professional! Haha! JK buddy! :laughing:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Sir Mixalot said:


> There are many differeny variations of skip trowel. We put sand in our mix and I only apply it in one direction. Then knock it down in the other direction.:thumbup:
> Keep in mind that the definition of skip trowel varies regionally throught the US and Canada. :yes:


Ya I figured as much! I really like the way yours looks though. 
Looks like an absent knockdown. Like a knockdowns little sister. hehe.
I like how you dragged it all the same direction.

And I figured it varies everywhere. Like knockdowns I guess.
Allot of people dont like knockdowns but like the way I do mine.
I've seen some completely different compared to the way mine look. And I agree! They suck! lol


----------



## Philma Crevices

PrecisionTaping said:


> Thats it!? Thats all you do!? Go around the whole ceiling with a little mud on a 12" trowel and just do a pattern!?
> No spraying? Air compressors!? No putting up plastic over entire walls!?
> I think im in love....


I like to fill in my corners so theres no "cat's eye's" in 'em as well  

But yeah, it's all hand applied, great for ceiling scrapes


----------



## Philma Crevices

Sir Mixalot said:


> There are many differeny variations of skip trowel. We put sand in our mix and I only apply it in one direction. Then knock it down in the other direction.:thumbup:
> Keep in mind that the definition of skip trowel varies regionally throught the US and Canada. :yes:


I've never done one as light as yours, I likes..


----------



## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Don't worry 2Buck's not that professional! Haha! JK buddy! :laughing:


Your right, theres always something new to learn,,,, so until then:thumbsup:


----------



## Philma Crevices

Did I say a 12" knife?... I meant a 2".... definately a 2. You guys knock yourselves out, it's all in the wrist


----------



## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> Your right, theres always something new to learn,,,, so until then:thumbsup:


Hehe, I was just bugging 2Buck! You're a pro in my books!!

So what's your ad space in your signature going to cost me!?
I have a new YouTube video uploading. hehe.



Philma Crevices said:


> Did I say a 12" knife?... I meant a 2".... definately a 2. You guys knock yourselves out, it's all in the wrist


Ewwww...that would suck!!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> So what's your ad space in your signature going to cost me!?
> I have a new YouTube video up


2bucks


----------



## Sir Mixalot

Philma Crevices said:


> But yeah, it's all hand applied, great for ceiling scrapes


Definitely. You can put the skip trowel where you need it.:thumbup:
If you try that with knockdown it just piles up and then smushes out when you wipe it down.








Ps. I like knockdown. But I like skip trowel more on ceilings.


----------



## Sir Mixalot

Philma Crevices said:


> Did I say a 12" knife?... I meant a 2".... definately a 2. You guys knock yourselves out, it's all in the wrist


Yep, the 2"er rocks!:thumbup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> 2bucks


Deal! i'll send you a tooney in the mail!
How long does 2$ get me?



Sir Mixalot said:


> Definitely. You can put the skip trowel where you need it.:thumbup:
> If you try that with knockdown it just piles up and then smushes out when you wipe it down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ps. I like knockdown. But I like skip trowel more on ceilings.


Cool! Well i'll try that out! I am curious and always wanting to learn!


----------



## Philma Crevices

If you're trying Mixalot's skip, a healthy 2 coats is needed, for heavier skips, you cn get away with more. If you sand before skipping, chances are youre gonna cause runs in the mud from it setting up at different rates, pretty much like knockdown, flatten it when it starts losing it's shine and you're golden. Not sure actually of the pre finish on the tigerstipe of Mixalots ( that's what we call it)


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Philma Crevices said:


> If you're trying Mixalot's skip, a healthy 2 coats is needed, for heavier skips, you cn get away with more. If you sand before skipping, chances are youre gonna cause runs in the mud from it setting up at different rates, pretty much like knockdown, flatten it when it starts losing it's shine and you're golden


Really eh?....hmm....
Well around where im from we prime before knockdowns.
I know allot of places dont. They do like Sir Mixalot, then paint after.
So I think I would stick to what Im used too. Prime the ceiling, and then do my design on top. So I probably could get away with 1 coat....I think..


----------



## Sir Mixalot

PrecisionTaping said:


> Really eh?....hmm....
> So I think I would stick to what Im used too. Prime the ceiling, and then do my design on top. So I probably could get away with 1 coat....I think..


I think the texture would flash, if it wasn't primed.:blink:


----------



## Philma Crevices

Sounds like it would work, 1 coat might be a bit iffy, but since primer will draw in the moisture, hell, why not :thumbup:

Every guy I work with has a different look to their skips, if we're doing a big project, each person gets there own rooms/area so not to have to much variance to catch the eye


----------



## 2buckcanuck

PrecisionTaping said:


> Deal! i'll send you a tooney in the mail!


Not a two nee, I want 2 bucks,Talking canuck talk here, I know where you live, just bag me a Moose


----------



## Philma Crevices

I know a guy was telling me they did a skip mixed with paint before, wall was pre painted one color, mud mixed with a different, they textured, and bam, finished product. I've wanted to experiment with that, might get on redoing my dinning room here soon


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Sir Mixalot said:


> I think the texture would flash, if it wasn't primed.:blink:


Like if the mud wasnt primed?
Cuz when I do my knockdown's I never prime them...
They just dry like a flat white. Almost a matt finish. 










Philma Crevices said:


> Sounds like it would work, 1 coat might be a bit iffy, but since primer will draw in the moisture, hell, why not :thumbup:
> 
> Every guy I work with has a different look to their skips, if we're doing a big project, each person gets there own rooms/area so not to have to much variance to catch the eye


Ya we do the same. I'll send guys on a different room.
I remember one time I had to do a knockdown on a giant open concept kitchen, dinning room, living room area. So I sprayed the whole ceiling and then I started knocking down at one and because it was drying fast I told one of my guys to start at the other end. Then when we met in the middle, our two sides looked nothing alike! haha!
Ever since then its one man per room.
Or one guy spraying, one guy knocking down.



2buckcanuck said:


> Not a two nee, I want 2 bucks,Talking canuck talk here, I know where you live, just bag me a Moose


oh oh!! I get it now.
I spotted this guy last week! Just down the road from my place!
I was able to snap a picture before the Son of B*@! almost drove me off the road!







Would he do!?



Philma Crevices said:


> I know a guy was telling me they did a skip mixed with paint before, wall was pre painted one color, mud mixed with a different, they textured, and bam, finished product. I've wanted to experiment with that, might get on redoing my dinning room here soon


Ya I've done that before!
A contractor I worked for had me do a custom knockdown in his theater room. He's a big ArcticCat fan. So he painted his theater room with all the ArcticCat colours and we painted his ceiling like a bright neon yellow and then mixed in a bright neon orange into our mud! It was very cool!
Turned out nice!! Nice highlighted contrast.


----------



## Sir Mixalot

Philma Crevices said:


> I know a guy was telling me they did a skip mixed with paint before, wall was pre painted one color, mud mixed with a different, they textured, and bam, finished product. I've wanted to experiment with that, might get on redoing my dinning room here soon


I've done that several times. :thumbsup: (looking for pics)
I found these. This is a commercial grade knockdown texture system that we do on hotel projects. It has that two tone look. This stuff is hardcore durable.:yes:


----------



## Sir Mixalot

PrecisionTaping said:


> Like if the mud wasnt primed?
> Cuz when I do my knockdown's I never prime them...
> They just dry like a flat white. Almost a matt finish.
> View attachment 3309


I would think that you would still have a raw material on the ceiling. And it would need to be primed and painted. I guess it depends on what material you use for your texture.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

Sir Mixalot said:


> I would think that you would still have a raw material on the ceiling. And it would need to be primed and painted. I guess it depends on what material you use for your texture.


I just use CGC Machine Mud!
Dries white.







Around here most people just leave the designs as they are.
Hardly anyone paints them. I dont know why.
I happen to think that painted knockdown's are really nice.
But im not the customer.


----------



## mxycan

is unpainted drywall even acceptable? you would think they wanted it sealed as moisture would cause problems and staining


----------



## Philma Crevices

Awesome pics Mixalot:thumbup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

mxycan said:


> is unpainted drywall even acceptable? you would think they wanted it sealed as moisture would cause problems and staining


Had you bothered to read higher mister 1 post, the ceiling itself is primed.
There's no unpainted drywall anywhere.
All the drywall in the home is primed. Its just after we do our designs on the primed ceilings we are not responsible for painting them.
And most painters who follow us just dont do it either, unless at the clients request. I guess they feel it takes away from the design.
Different ways of doing things in different areas of the world I guess.


----------



## chris

some texturing. Thats me on stilts and one of my newbs texturing...another wing done. Will get vid of whole house tomorrow


----------



## betterdrywall

chris said:


> Drywall texturing - YouTube some texturing. Thats me on stilts and one of my newbs texturing...another wing done. Will get vid of whole house tomorrow


 This is the 2nd time I have seen someone texture walls starting from the Floor on up to the ceiling. Always do your inside corners first , Top to Bottom:yes:


----------



## chris

betterdrywall said:


> This is the 2nd time I have seen someone texture walls starting from the Floor on up to the ceiling. Always do your inside corners first , Top to Bottom:yes:


 I hear ya. 20 years ago when I was just a pup my boss told me the same thing:whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

Someone actually paid me to do this stuff. Go easy on me, it was my first time. I had to redo the first wall, and it took me until the 3rd and 4th walls to really figure it out. Next time (if there ever is such a thing) it will go MUCH better.....


----------



## SlimPickins

^^^It's going to get a major sanding.........fortunately, not by me


----------



## mudslingr

Looks cool Slim ! I like it ! For what it is.:thumbsup:


----------



## mudslingr

SlimPickins said:


> ^^^It's going to get a major sanding.........fortunately, not by me


Why not just paint ?


----------



## PrecisionTaping

That's awesome!! I love it! Like Mudslingr said, for what it is, I think you did an awesome job! What did you use? Just a notch trowel?


----------



## SlimPickins

mudslingr said:


> Why not just paint ?


It's like this....5 years ago when I worked for a big company, he asked me to experiment with new textures. I had a 1/4" trowel laying around so I played with it (on a 2'x2' square of board.......waaaaay different than a whole wall!). The sample got sanded, so that's what's going to happen on this job. I wish the homeowner had been around, I could have made this job really beautiful, but I had to match the sample. I wish I knew then what I know now........especially after seeing those "clamshell" dudes on here. Oh well......live and learn!


----------



## SlimPickins

PrecisionTaping said:


> That's awesome!! I love it! Like Mudslingr said, for what it is, I think you did an awesome job! What did you use? Just a notch trowel?


Yessir!


----------



## moore

The detail is unreal Slim..Those close ups tell all ..Very nice! :yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> The detail is unreal Slim..Those close ups tell all ..Very nice! :yes:


Thanks moore!

When I showed up the heat was cranked. A lovely thing to walk into after a 2 hour drive. I didn't have a closet to start in to "warm up", so I just went for it. That first wall was......how you say......chit. So I coated right over it and did it again. The second wall was a little busy for me, and the 3rd and 4th just right. If I didn't have to be home for my son's little league game I would have given it more love. The transitions between strokes were really tricky. The overlaps left a kind of diagonal checkerboard pattern that ruined the general feel of the thing, so each pass had to be just right (to be honest, I didn't accomplish it the way I really might have liked).

Three things that would improve working conditions:

1. No f***ing heat:furious:

2. A primer/sealer on the wall to give longer working time

3. A practice wall :laughing:

I'd like to thank all of you for the compliments, you're very nice gentlemen:yes: Now I want to do some experimenting and see what I can come up with.........


----------



## chris

Far Out Dude:thumbup:. Na really ,pretty sweet:yes:


----------



## gazman

It is like a psychedelic trip back to the 70`s.
For what it is looks like a good job Slim.:thumbsup:


----------



## Sir Mixalot

SlimPickins said:


> Someone actually paid me to do this stuff. Go easy on me, it was my first time. I had to redo the first wall, and it took me until the 3rd and 4th walls to really figure it out. Next time (if there ever is such a thing) it will go MUCH better.....


Nicely done Slim. Looks awesome! :thumbup:


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> Far Out Dude:thumbup:. Na really ,pretty sweet:yes:


Seriously Brah.....I couldn't stop whistling "Purple Haze"! :laughing: (In a very mocking kind of way.:yes

I was flabbergasted that someone would choose this particular texture for their home. There's nothing elegant or simplistic about it. It's loud and busy........but it pays really well, which makes me happy that the owner of the company that paid me to do it can't use a hawk and trowel:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

Heres a picture of Snack bar at a school. I did an older "swirl" to match a bathroom I did ten years ago. A little busier than the usual but used to be real popular.  A couple big walls too


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> Heres a picture of Snack bar at a school. I did an older "swirl" to match a bathroom I did ten years ago. A little busier than the usual but used to be real popular.  A couple big walls too


You have any details of that swirl? I keep hearing about this stuff, but have yet to see one up close.....I'm sure I could swing it......if I could see it:thumbsup:


----------



## chris

Ya know Ive been thinking about a short " How To" texture video showing a few different techniques. Would a few of you like to see one?


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> Ya know Ive been thinking about a short " How To" texture video showing a few different techniques. Would a few of you like to see one?










:yes:


----------



## chris

Heres one a tad closer. Im thinking about showin how to do what I would call Swirl, Swirl KD, Sun Valley Smooth, Skip trowel and maybe a brush or spray kd


----------



## SlimPickins

chris said:


> Heres one a tad closer. Im thinking about showin how to do what I would call Swirl, Swirl KD, Sun Valley Smooth, Skip trowel and maybe a brush or spray kd


You should definitely do a video:thumbsup:

Next time you're doing a swirl bring your light and shine it down the wall and get the camera real close (please!). 

Out of your list, that's the only one I'm missing. I actually like the brush knockdown (I call it a slap-down)....if done nicely:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

Doing some stomp and custom tex tonight


----------



## drywall guy158

looks good ! :yes:
doing one of those tomorrow, I'll post up some pics when i'm done. going to be the biggest one I've done.


----------



## smisner50s

Did this 1 this morning


----------



## smisner50s

Long day


----------



## chris

pretty sweet man:thumbsup: that string in final pic,, was that your guide/center? Very unique


----------



## smisner50s

chris said:


> pretty sweet man:thumbsup: that string in final pic,, was that your guide/center? Very unique


Yeah it keeps me centering out and makeing perfect circles


----------



## moore

LOOKS GREAT! Smisner. try some half swirls on the outside of the madialion ..Then wipe down around the edges. gives a great look ,,and a line to cut up to... Iv'e done many of those [wish I had pics] Have you tried the swirl boarders around the edge of the walls? With the boarders throw a few swirls out from the 3 points also.. like 3 [ need a 6'' brush for that] ..My DAD taught me the swirls but where I really got creative was when I seen some work by an old drywaller.. Clarence Seay.. old black man ..[ not that it matters what color he was] Just sayin.. he did some amazing madilions !! I saw one he swirled that looked like a wagon wheel,,and I mean It looked just like a wagon wheel!!! The guy was awsome .I picked up alot tricks just by doing repairs on homes he had swirled ..I would just stand there and stare at the ceiling and think ...How the hell did he do that???:blink: ..The only thing about Clarence was he couldn't finish rock for chit! Hang /tape/ swirl that was it .. no block coat no skim... When you walk into a room he textured you would be amazed at the designs ,,but then the seams and butts would hit you in the face! 

The last time I asked Dad about Clarence he said he was still kicking around but hasn't worked in years .. He lives not far from here.. I feel friendly these days...I should stop by to atleast pick his brain a little and maybe get some pics of his work in his own home.. :thumbsup:

OK ... I had a Harvey moment...  Just trying to share..


----------



## moore

smisner50s said:


> Yeah it keeps me centering out and makeing perfect circles


 No need for the string man...Use your brush .. That first ring around should keep you on center.. 

Nice work Steve!:yes: You do a great job ,,and show a real pride in everything you do!! I really enjoy seeing your work:thumbsup:


----------



## smisner50s

moore said:


> No need for the string man...Use your brush .. That first ring around should keep you on center..
> 
> Nice work Steve!:yes: You do a great job ,,and show a real pride in everything you do!! I really enjoy seeing your work:thumbsup:


Thanks man i love to do anything custom..i put trimtex stepabull bead in this house verry basic ranch 130 ..12 footers ..its a new home for my sister unlaws grandmother so i wanted to go a step further to add a few things to help make a big differance for a little amount of coin..i have 5 different light designs in this house ..i put a 1.5 inch border around the ceiling edges..all that stuff u said in the previous post sound pretty cool ill try some..im gonna spray gloss white on the ceiling and prime for homeowner..


----------



## moore

moore said:


> No need for the string man...Use your brush .. That first ring around should keep you on center..
> 
> Nice work Steve!:yes: You do a great job ,,and show a real pride in everything you do!! I really enjoy seeing your work:thumbsup:


 What I mean Is [been a while] With a [say] 8'' brush start from the inside out with full circles ..Then start your designs from the out side in, useing your circles as the guidline .faster this way i think .no sting to wrestle.If Your off an 1/8'' or even a 1/4 '' who's the wiser:whistling2: By a stand point you wont see it. You know!! There's very little work time with those designs ..You got 1 chance ..The quicker the better...


----------



## drywall guy158

this one is 8' 









the next 2 pics is of the one i did today it is 12' , i'll post another pic when everything is painted.


----------



## moore

drywall guy? Was that free hand? NICE WORK !:yes:


----------



## drywall guy158

moore said:


> drywall guy? Was that free hand? NICE WORK !:yes:


thanks moore !!.....to answer your ? ...the rings are not free hand...I designed a tool to do these a few years ago. I want to get a patent on it but that cost so much f n $$$$$, every time i go to take the tool to the next step work slows up a little and i don't want to spend any $, and i'm just not shure if there is a big market for it also. would really like to do a video of one being done but thats kind of hard when i have to keep the tool out of sight "as per the lawer that i have for the patent process"


----------



## maDDog

*texturing*



2buckcanuck said:


> Mudslinger pretty well answered the Question why????
> 
> One it's what the customer wants, so give it to them.
> 
> And the other, it's damn good money where I live, Lets put it this way, our spray guys are way over paid IMO. I get they can sit for days on end with no work, but on the other hand, in one days work, they will half to spray a few houses in one day, and make more in one day than I do in a week, mind you they do half to work hard that one day.....
> 
> 
> Before KD came to our area, most tapers did their own spray (texture/popcorn). but when it came to the KD, every bodies KD looked different. So the DWC would employ one spray guy, so everything would look universally the same. No more explaining why so and so house looked different from the last one.
> 
> Don't forget, this is communist Canada, not good to be different :thumbup:


Apparently you've never sprayed texture before,if you think texture guys are over paid. We may sit for days but the contractor doesn't buy any of my material nor does he pay my workmens comp or liability insurance. Unlike a hanger or finisher who just shows up with his tools and all material supplied by contractor. I guarantee I'd ware you butt out more in one day of texturing than a month of finishing. If you think getting $1.75 for spray 1 - 4 x 12' piece of drywall knockdown /o/p is over paid you've been in the cold way too long.


----------



## maDDog

*texturing*

Some of my overpaid texturing.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

maDDog said:


> Apparently you've never sprayed texture before,if you think texture guys are over paid. We may sit for days but the contractor doesn't buy any of my material nor does he pay my workmens comp or liability insurance. Unlike a hanger or finisher who just shows up with his tools and all material supplied by contractor. I guarantee I'd ware you butt out more in one day of texturing than a month of finishing. If you think getting $1.75 for spray 1 - 4 x 12' piece of drywall knockdown /o/p is over paid you've been in the cold way too long.


Bring it:furious:

Yes I can spray, I have done hundreds of houses in my day,and I have not yet met a spray guy that can finish.

Hope you live in my area, if so, I would volunteer to to do the job for free, that's how easy I think your work is, compared to sanding out ceilings.

Re-read my post, we use to do the spray, till the KD became more prevalent. It pays me more to incorporate the spray into my work, it's easy to work into the system.

Think anyone would agree on this site it's stupid to finish sand and light check out the house, then do the spray. That's like vacuuming then doing the dusting

So bring it:furious::furious:


----------



## maDDog

Talking to the wrong guy about finishing, I started out lath and plastering, then went to the easy finishing of drywall up north in NY where it's all slick finish, the REAL slick finish. If your good and take your time you'll have very little sanding, always hated sanding that's what I paid the out of work finishers hacks to do. Now with all the electric sanders out there why would anyone still be sanding by hand. Big difference learning the trade in north. Down here in Florida slick finish is a joke, Hence the need for level 5 my slick finish is level 5 and I texture for fun because finishing down here the way they want it is like a day at the beach. Come on down for vacation get out of the cold and we'll do some real work, or I got a 690 BD house in the Syracuse area needs hard coat on walls and ceilings the owners are flying me in for the week, Hell I'll even buy your ticket.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

maDDog said:


> Talking to the wrong guy about finishing, I started out lath and plastering, then went to the easy finishing of drywall up north in NY where it's all slick finish, the REAL slick finish. If your good and take your time you'll have very little sanding, always hated sanding that's what I paid the out of work finishers hacks to do. Now with all the electric sanders out there why would anyone still be sanding by hand. Big difference learning the trade in north. Down here in Florida slick finish is a joke, Hence the need for level 5 my slick finish is level 5 and I texture for fun because finishing down here the way they want it is like a day at the beach. Come on down for vacation get out of the cold and we'll do some real work, or I got a 690 BD house in the Syracuse area needs hard coat on walls and ceilings the owners are flying me in for the week, Hell I'll even buy your ticket.


My new buddy









I think your right, I have been stuck in the cold too long


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## maDDog

My apologies your location explains EVERYTHING. After looking at my tax returns you may be right texture guys are way overpaid, thank GOD I invested and have enough saved to actually do something I really love to do, go to beach and watch woman in bikinis much better than anything drywall has to offer these days Hell another 12 years and I'll be able to collect some of that overpaid money I made.


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## moore

maDDog said:


> Some of my overpaid texturing.


 That's absolutely beautiful!:yes:


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## boco

Heres the video i watched from swp.

Tips i picked up vidoe. 
1. if right handed go left to right
2. Stir stick works great for loading
3. I like the way he starts at the top left then gradually works down and then floods entire wall. its good technque cause its non reptitive. 

Things you dont see

1. First you need to do a 4x4 sample. I like to use a primer tinted to 25% of chosen color. This saves a step and gives an additional color. Not a must but when working with darker colors or on ceilings i do recommend. Not a must but its a nice touch.
2. I also recommend empting the gallon of plaster into another bucket then take a stir stick or brush to get all the remaining heavy stuff off the bottom of can. Really helps so that it can be easily mixed and makes the product a bit thicker and easier to keep on trowel.
3. Doesnt really show the burnish coat. Thats the best part. Once its all done and dry . It needs to be rubbed or wiped down with a trowel. How much rubbing needed should be be determined from sample. Also make sure your trowel has dull corners and is sanded with 220 or even 300 grit. This step is key for creating a waxy or polished finish as well as a more durable product.
4. Use a concave trowel 8" or 10". Try to keep product in center and away from edges. keep a rag on you to wipe any excess from edges of trowel. You can an also aplly to wall or ceiling with 4' mini roller.
5. For commercial jobs i do a tinted prime then apply 2 coats of product. For residential I do a tinted primer then a minimum of 4 coats of product. Then each get rubbed or burnished
6. Not sure if this helps but on ceilings i expect to do around 250 275 ft per hour. Walls around 350 to 400 sqft per hour. 
7 For making straight lines on accent walls use a product called Frog tape. Simply use a paint brush to lighty cut in then trowel away from tape. The tape is kinda waxy and will give nice crisp lines like the the tapes used for automotive.


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## 2buckcanuck

I found the link to your vid





Looks like the first coat is the most time consuming, then after that it speeds up.

thanks, that makes sense how he is putting it on. I can apply some of my principles I learned doing veneer plaster. I should post a vid of some you see on you tube, most you go WTF:blink:, why are you using a 2 inch knife, can't you use a trowel

Thanks boco:thumbsup:


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## Philma Crevices

Here's a decent short vid, and it's a chick!


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## boco

Philma Crevices said:


> Here's a decent short vid, and it's a chick!
> 
> Venetian Plaster Basic Skip Trowel Application Video (short version) by Modern Masters - YouTube


 Very good video. I actuaually looked for this one last night. As for knives i have an 8' trowel applying. Then for burnishing i use a 8 or 10 " venition plaster knife from sherwin-williams. The little knives arent neccessary unless you are doing something very narrow say around prehung metal doorframes. You know the ones right next to an angle that are a bitch to tape.


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## Nick Harmon

Raised Sand Dune texture. Fresco Harmony color Minor Sand. 
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...89023119.15058.107020065990078&type=1&theater


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## Nick Harmon

Glass tile incorporation on a shower enclosure. This was the clients idea if you can believe that. Otherwise I stray away from more aggressive textures.


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