# Scrap!!!!!!



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Of the GC's that I've worked and work for over the yrs, I've only had one that keeps hounding me about scrap Sheetrock. I've worked for him for the past decade and about every 2 yrs we dance the dance again. My hangers are fully aware of the way he is and make damned sure they use everything that they possibly can. I explain why total sq board footage is included in price but it just doesn't seem to truly register. 

I've never deducted for scrap rock....and I'm not about to start now:furious:


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

Ask him to duck tape the scrap back together into 12' sheets, and maybe you'll consider deducting for scrap. Could be an interesting sight if the cheap [email protected] actually went for it.:yes:


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

" but why am I being charged for finishing board that never been touched by the finisher "

What does the finisher have to do to bring the product to completion?

How many times do we touch the board that is hung?

As it is, the job becomes more difficult due to unnecessary joints buy piecing stuff in...not to mention, more chance of potential problems down the road.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

Square Foot said:


> Of the GC's that I've worked and work for over the yrs, I've only had one that keeps hounding me about scrap Sheetrock. I've worked for him for the past decade and about every 2 yrs we dance the dance again. My hangers are fully aware of the way he is and make damned sure they use everything that they possibly can. I explain why total sq board footage is included in price but it just doesn't seem to truly register.
> 
> I've never deducted for scrap rock....and I'm not about to start now:furious:


Question mate when u put a bid in is it per square foot of the job the price or square foot of board that is needed.....as i charge per square metre of wall and ceiling and left over board is my prob i would love to start charging for scrap lol


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

We give a price to do the whole job labor and materials. Rule 1: don't tell those pricks how many boards it is..... if they want to know then they can go count them when it's stocked. If they tried to pull that on me I would go out a lien on the job and tell him to deal with it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Square Foot said:


> Of the GC's that I've worked and work for over the yrs, I've only had one that keeps hounding me about scrap Sheetrock. I've worked for him for the past decade and about every 2 yrs we dance the dance again. My hangers are fully aware of the way he is and make damned sure they use everything that they possibly can. I explain why total sq board footage is included in price but it just doesn't seem to truly register.
> 
> I've never deducted for scrap rock....and I'm not about to start now:furious:


On your next job for him Don't cut out any windows or doors! :laughing: That should teach him a lesson!!! 

Hang a room at a time then cut a hole in the door just big enough to crawl through with your gear! LOL!!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I've never seen a home framed together with scrap lumber.
I've never seen decks built out of little pieces of lumber .
I've never seen a house wired from scrap wire .
I've never seen a plumber piece together his runs with short pieces ... 

The list goes on!! But when It comes to drywall ! That's a different story ! Cause there ain't no code against piecing that chit together !!!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Easiest way to get around an argument is to bid the next job high enough to cover all that scrap. That way you don't have to worry about it.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

$35/sheet plus material outta do it!


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

We have the same tossas hear we will price a job where the left overs is our own expence and loss and they will sook as if i ripped them off 3 sheets extra


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

moore said:


> On your next job for him Don't cut out any windows or doors! :laughing: That should teach him a lesson!!!
> 
> Hang a room at a time then cut a hole in the door just big enough to crawl through with your gear! LOL!!


I read your post few times and always i laughed 
You are so classic and so right and i keep it in my mind


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Load the scrap in his truck and tell him to take it back to the supplier for a refund.:thumbup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

What kills me is they build this cut up fancy chit with with all the vaults and knee walls and odd ball closets .. And expect us to leave a wheel barrow full of scrap?? Crazy!!


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

moore said:


> What kills me is they build this cut up fancy chit with with all the vaults and knee walls and odd ball closets .. And expect us to leave a wheel barrow full of scrap?? Crazy!!


They expect the bloody world.....our biggest sheets are 6 metres long and i had on guy ask can u please custom order a 8 metre long sheet.....i thought to my self yeah sure i just keep them in my shed


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Did a tour of the Gyprock factory a while ago, I seen a 50m sheet:thumbsup: Man it looked cool. Then they went an cut it up.:furious:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

after the change to tt its hard to look at scrap the same way


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## rockhanger3 (Jun 17, 2015)

I don't call it scrap
I call it a profit pile.


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## Aussiecontractor (Oct 6, 2014)

I've had one or two builders whinge about it too if a sheet or 2 left over,
I just tell em what embella does what Evers left comes out of my profit as I order them so if I order two many it's my own problem 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## sheep (May 11, 2015)

Most of the builders we work for supply. So we don't get paid for 100% of the meterage delivered, they deduct some for wastage, it sucks, but whatever. Pisses me off though when they wan't to deduct money for a few sheets. A builder did that once. They didn't get any more left overs, and their bins got pretty full :thumbsup:


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> after the change to tt its hard to look at scrap the same way


   

Using butt board and doing the "rail road" butt on every ceiling will save time and materials. 

Selling a few 10" borders around a few rooms or an EZ Tray ceiling detail helps helps bring a better return to your pocket. 

Joe


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## Contractor Joe (Jun 7, 2015)

moore said:


> I've never seen a home framed together with scrap lumber.
> I've never seen decks built out of little pieces of lumber .
> I've never seen a house wired from metal buildings .
> I've never seen a plumber piece together his runs with short pieces ...
> ...


Hahahaha... this is true! :thumbsup:


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

The "price per sheet" is just an accepted shorthand means of connecting income to productivity. If a contractor reduces the sheet count to account for waste, then the price per square foot will have to go up to accommodate the loss of footage accordingly. To where the price to hang or finish a house goes unchanged. If the contractor is merely trying to decrease the income of the installers and finishers, then good luck. They may just all leave and go elsewhere to work. After saying this, I do admit that sometimes when hanging is paid for by the sheet, hangers can be quite wasteful in their use of sheetrock.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

fr8train said:


> $35/sheet plus material outta do it!


add a board


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

If there is a complaint about scrap then I have a complaint about room size that creates scrap. A small room 122" x 124" is going to have 15% scrap period. A large room 270" x 196" more scrap. GC should be barking at the architects ffs. I don't want to be dealing with scrap or the cost in labor to move it or dispose of it.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Mudstar said:


> If there is a complaint about scrap then I have a complaint about room size that creates scrap. A small room 122" x 124" is going to have 15% scrap period. A large room 270" x 196" more scrap. GC should be barking at the architects ffs. I don't want to be dealing with scrap or the cost in labor to move it or dispose of it.


What gets me is a bunch of 6.5-7 foot long walls in rooms. Sometimes we get houses with so many closets or laundry areas that are 6'6". Or even worse, 6' 1" in length. They generate a bunch of just under 6" butts. You can always use some. But eventually you have to start adding extra butt joints to a few walls, or carry a bunch of 5' 6" butts off to the next job.


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

I'm curious, why not stand up the drywall sheets in some or most areas of a home? You would minimize the amount of butt joints. I'm interested about the reasons why or why not from you, the pros.

Joe


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I can't speak for everyone Joe, but over here the stud spacings wont work. And finishing stand ups are harder on the body.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

gazman said:


> I can't speak for everyone Joe, but over here the stud spacings wont work. And finishing stand ups are harder on the body.


easier for the boarder...


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## cracker (Nov 3, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Easiest way to get around an argument is to bid the next job high enough to cover all that scrap. That way you don't have to worry about it.



Yep, People that give me a hard time like that...next house is always higher. Let your competition deal with the cheap guy.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Trim-Tex said:


> I'm curious, why not stand up the drywall sheets in some or most areas of a home? You would minimize the amount of butt joints. I'm interested about the reasons why or why not from you, the pros.
> 
> Joe


If it's timber framed stand-up seams are worse than butts. They are seldom flat and as the wood twists and dries out your seam moves all over the place. What's more stand ups accentuate bad framing and bad sheetrock.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Trim-Tex said:


> I'm curious, why not stand up the drywall sheets in some or most areas of a home? You would minimize the amount of butt joints. I'm interested about the reasons why or why not from you, the pros.
> 
> Joe


With the grain of the paper and the edge hardener on the rolled edge any application perpendicular to the framing members is stronger and therefore straighter. Whether it be residential wood framing or commercial metal studs I've always thought this application best. A good finisher can make a butt joint look good if made 24" to 36". Look at some of Moore's work and you'll see what I mean. Standups in wood framing will also highlight any crooked studs where horizontal will tend to pull them in line.
I always hated ignorant contractors who would demand I stand board up and later complain the could still see the shadowing of the joints. Of course these same morons where to cheap to pay for level 5 finishing too!


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Trim-Tex said:


> I'm curious, why not stand up the drywall sheets in some or most areas of a home? You would minimize the amount of butt joints. I'm interested about the reasons why or why not from you, the pros.
> 
> Joe


Structural comes to mind :thumbsup: Building codes in some cases....


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Trim-Tex said:


> I'm curious, why not stand up the drywall sheets in some or most areas of a home? You would minimize the amount of butt joints. I'm interested about the reasons why or why not from you, the pros.
> 
> Joe


Exactly what MLD said and is the same reason butts shouldn't be joined on timber but back-blocked over a cavity instead.
A bad horizontal seam won't show anywhere near as bad as vertical ones, it's structurally stronger and also there's less meterage of seam to tape.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

mld said:


> If it's timber framed stand-up seams are worse than butts. They are seldom flat and as the wood twists and dries out your seam moves all over the place. What's more stand ups accentuate bad framing and bad sheetrock.


What he said!!! ^^^^^


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

It's funny how they can make it ..test it ..sell it...and still not know a damm thing about it.


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## Trim-Tex TechSupport (Mar 19, 2013)

It's not that we don't know how and why drywall is normally hung, it's that as a an industry resource people come to us with entry level questions. We thought it would be an interesting question to pose to the 7000 members on drywall talk, to see if there is any merit to hanging drywall vertically, since you guys are the pros out in the field. We appreciate the feedback and the overall response lines up with what we usually answer with.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Trim-Tex said:


> I'm curious, why not stand up the drywall sheets in some or most areas of a home? You would minimize the amount of butt joints. I'm interested about the reasons why or why not from you, the pros.
> 
> Joe


What if the ceilings are flat 9'6" ? Then you have a 2' 6" piece of scrap for every 12' sheet. Or flat 8' 4" ceilings? And what about cut outs at doors and windows? And where walls meet vaulted sloped ceilings? Or cutting hips and valleys in a vaulted ceiling? An odd shaped triangle piece of leftover scrap there which for most cuts is unusable. If you are doing standups on a wall that is taller than the rock is long, you will have a horizontal butt joint with no way to fasten it properly. No way to eliminate drywall scrap unless the project is designed around that principle.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

endo_alley said:


> What if the ceilings are flat 9'6" ? Then you have a 2' 6" piece of scrap for every 12' sheet. Or flat 8' 4" ceilings? And what about cut outs at doors and windows? And where walls meet vaulted sloped ceilings? Or cutting hips and valleys in a vaulted ceiling? An odd shaped triangle piece of leftover scrap there which for most cuts is unusable. If you are doing standups on a wall that is taller than the rock is long, you will have a horizontal butt joint with no way to fasten it properly. No way to eliminate drywall scrap unless the project is designed around that principle.


 9'-6" I would take 6" off the top sheet and have a 24" rip on the bottom so I'm only wasting the 6" rip. I do see the point about laying the board down though.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

MrWillys said:


> 9'-6" I would take 6" off the top sheet and have a 24" rip on the bottom so I'm only wasting the 6" rip. I do see the point about laying the board down though.


You would take 6" off a standup sheet for a 9'6" wall? The arithmetic doesn't work. The post I was referring to was a guy asking why we don't stand up the board to have less scrap. I was explaining that standups create more waste.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

endo_alley said:


> You would take 6" off a standup sheet for a 9'6" wall? The arithmetic doesn't work. The post I was referring to was a guy asking why we don't stand up the board to have less scrap. I was explaining that standups create more waste.


No Endo, I agree with you that board should be horizontal. I'd take 6" off the top sheet and shove it up. Push the second course up, and finally kick up a 2' rip on the bottom. Keeps my joints tight and at 2' and 6' to be finished from the floor.


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