# to build a better bazooka



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

What ideas do guys have to make the Bazooka better.

I got a dumb minor idea, a transparent 4 or 5 inch by 1/4" window near the top of the tube, yes I know you hear a click click click when there's 4 or 5 feet left. But sometimes the damn thing feels more heavier than it should, or lighter, and you miss judge.

I will think of more when I run it tomorrow

And if the captain could post his idea here, it's one of the better ideas, so if you could plz


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> What ideas do guys have to make the Bazooka better.
> 
> I got a dumb minor idea, a transparent 4 or 5 inch by 1/4" window near the top of the tube, yes I know you hear a click click click when there's 4 or 5 feet left. But sometimes the damn thing feels more heavier than it should, or lighter, and you miss judge.
> 
> ...


 Gee I thought you'd NEVER ask,,,,,,,

We need a zooka that has an adjustable mud flow,,, not so much as a simple banjo has, why that would way to much to ask for,,,,

1) zooka makers COULD offer differant shaft sizes,,, that would increase the "gear ratio" on the cable wind, that would increase the amount of mud being loaded on the tape
2) zooka makers COULD offer bigger sprockets that would increase the the "gear ratio" on the "speed" of the cable being winded up...


but alas,,,, zooka makers are only interested in copying the original AMES tube and do not seem to be the least bit interested in what REAL ZOOKA OPERATORS WANT !!!!!!!!!!!! 

WHEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks 2buck,,, I need to get that off my chest!!!

Ask yourself this,,,, since companies offer zookas AND angleheads for sale,,, how come SOME or their beancounters can't figure out that the zooka does not give you enough mud to wipe the corner with a pole,,, so you have to use a corner box or mudrunner to git-r-done,,,,,,,,,


Oh yeah,,,, they want you to have to buy them too,,, my bad

But really,,, I think it just because they don't have to make a living doing this, and since their competitors ain't offing it,,, then they don't have to offer it.


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious: 

Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious:
> 
> Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


 I struggle with the same thing,,,, seems like they could make it work better ifin they took a notion


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious:
> 
> Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


I find a lot has to do with the mud mix, but you are right, they are not the most simple toy to pick up and run. They could come up with a better finger, or maybe a better wheel, some how make a interchangeable wheel, one for flats, the current one I guess, and one for the angles, maybe sharper teeth on the wheel too......thinking on the fly here, this is where beer would help


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I find a lot has to do with the mud mix, but you are right, they are not the most simple toy to pick up and run. They could come up with a better finger, or maybe a better wheel, some how make a interchangeable wheel, one for flats, the current one I guess, and one for the angles, maybe sharper teeth on the wheel too......thinking on the fly here, this is where beer would help


 Now beer I have!!!!!!!! 

How come since 99% of people are right handed,,,, don't they REVERSE the gearing on that dern thing,,,, the biggest problem on running top angles is digging the dern chain assembly into the wall (righ-handed speaking), if they reversed the dern thing,,,,,,, well that would make it easier, and,,,,,uhhhhh,,, I forgot,,,, they could care less


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

My improvement ideas:

They make them so easy to run that people wouldn't need us and we'd move on to something that made more sense, because we'd be forced to

Or

They make them so difficult to run that you'd need much more training/experience, and so they'd pay more to get you to do the work.

I know. Not what you were looking for.


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## MeatBallDryWall (Jan 9, 2010)

> the biggest problem on running top angles is digging the dern chain assembly into the wall (righ-handed speaking),


A-Men to that & when it happens (always on a full bazooka too) it's a HELL of a bind to be in for a few seconds.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Change the gooser, it's made out of plastic, and the plastic sleeve/post it runs up. The post wears out too fast, wears out like the shape of a hour glass, then the needle gets too wobbly.

And a better chain guide/tension thing that sits under the chain, make it so you can adjust it, in stead of having to whack it with a hammer to adjust it. so there's less play in the chain:yes:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Change the gooser, it's made out of plastic, and the plastic sleeve/post it runs up. The post wears out too fast, wears out like the shape of a hour glass, then the needle gets too wobbly.
> 
> And a better chain guide/tension thing that sits under the chain, make it so you can adjust it, in stead of having to whack it with a hammer to adjust it. so there's less play in the chain:yes:


 Huh???? rut-row,,,,

I think we were talking about the gears and the sprocket digging into the wall,,,,, LOL

never seen a gooser dig into the wall,,, but then again, I ain't never seen a canuck taper either,,,,,, could I have missed something????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Huh???? rut-row,,,,
> 
> I think we were talking about the gears and the sprocket digging into the wall,,,,, LOL
> 
> never seen a gooser dig into the wall,,, but then again, I ain't never seen a canuck taper either,,,,,, could I have missed something????


UUUUUHHHHMMMMM :blink:

because if I was addressing your post, I would of quoted it, I'm throwing out a whole new idea here:thumbup:

I know,I know, the home brew, but to address your post then, I guess they could give you a option on which side they put the chain on. Just like the guitar or banjo (talking music instruments ) Have it so you can order one that way.......I guess


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I'm throwing out a whole new idea here:thumbup:


My new idea: Throw out much of the basic bazooka design - try to break free from the 'continuity' thinking about bazooka design - and try over.


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Gee I thought you'd NEVER ask,,,,,,,
> 
> We need a zooka that has an adjustable mud flow,,, not so much as a simple banjo has, why that would way to much to ask for,,,,
> 
> ...


Capn: Can I have someone from my Product Team contact you about some of these suggestions?

P.S. We do care about what real users think.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

TapeTech said:


> Capn: Can I have someone from my Product Team contact you about some of these suggestions?
> 
> P.S. We do care about what real users think.


WeLL, if you really Do care: 

Capt. could use a different job. He says he's getting too old/beat up for this work. Maybe let him head up a 'skunk works' division of your product team(?) I'd even buy more TapeTech tools, if I knew it was helping keep our friend in better health and cigarettes and beer. :yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Get rid of that dry spot that comes 3 or 4 inches when a new tape is placed. It's not a big deal with long tapes etc. But when you do a short tape above a door (header joint) you will get a dry spot. When your racing with the bazooka, and you have dumb dumbs chasing/wiping behind you, they never catch it. It has got to the point, that when I do short tapes now, I feed out the tape 8 to 10 inches now, then place it to the short joint.which slows things down.

Why is there a dry spot 4 or 5 inches in on a new tape, it happens with all models of Bazookas


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Why is there a dry spot 4 or 5 inches in on a new tape, it happens with all models of Bazookas


It happens because of the way they're designed to work. As I said previously, re-think the bazooka design on a more fundamental level than what people seem to be doing - there's too many problematic issues that shouldn't have to be there, but will be hard/impossible to remove with the current design.

Key problem seems to be, as Einstein said, that you can't solve problems with the same kind of thinking that created the problems in the 1st place. It's what can happen in most problem solving instances. Even knowing 'too much' about something can do that - track your thinking too much.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

JustMe said:


> there's too many problematic issues that shouldn't have to be there, but will be hard/impossible to remove with the current design.


I should maybe add that Some of those problems should be able to be solved within the current design. But those solutions will very likely create other problems and challenges of a type that will make (most all of) those new solutions not really worth it. What I expect where things will end up is something that's still a problem (ie. the bazooka), but is an improved problem.


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## Captain Drywall (Aug 15, 2011)

*angle tape draggingg*



M T Buckets Painting said:


> I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious:
> 
> Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


perhaps your mud is to thick when taping angles. it should drag that much.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

TapeTech said:


> Capn: Can I have someone from my Product Team contact you about some of these suggestions?
> 
> P.S. We do care about what real users think.


Sure, I'd love to talk to them guys. They can probbly answer some of the "why" questions. To me, seems some of these things could be an easy fix, but then again, I'm not a designer. 

Heres an idea,,, since the plunger is fiberglass and undersized (for the tube) haveing a rubber gasket to catch and pull the mud up the tube. Why can't they put a, say, teflon ring on the bottom of the rubber gasket to "wipe and clean" the tube, on the back-stroke, as your filling it up? This is one of them ideas that sounds good, but might not be possible to do.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious:
> 
> Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


One thing where I will give TT credit for, is their bazooka's tend to drag less. Mine is about ten years old now, bought brand new. Then we have a drywall master, that 2bjr obtained used. no idea how old it is. Others have used or tried my TT, and they notice that right off the bat.(bats) when doing a up-right angle, your lucky if it even drags a 1/2 inch. With 2bjr's DM, you half to compensate a bit more for the drag, you got to think a bit more. even some of the flat tapes will drag with the DM. The TT, you just go !!!!! it rarely drags. I have tried all other Bazooka's, except the Columbia (sorry Arron). The TT runs really smooth, very little resistance in my opinion:thumbsup:

Here's the only picture I could find of my Bazooka Mr tape tech (Mike Ventura). Isn't she sexxie, she's so sexxie, that I had to spell sexy different because she's so sexxie. If you want to make a copy of my Tape tech Bazooka, and hang it on your office wall, I will understand:whistling2:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Isn't she sexxie, she's so sexxie, that I had to spell sexy different because she's so sexxie.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> One thing where I will give TT credit for, is their bazooka's tend to drag less. Mine is about ten years old now, bought brand new. Then we have a drywall master, that 2bjr obtained used. no idea how old it is. Others have used or tried my TT, and they notice that right off the bat.(bats) when doing a up-right angle, your lucky if it even drags a 1/2 inch. With 2bjr's DM, you half to compensate a bit more for the drag, you got to think a bit more. even some of the flat tapes will drag with the DM. The TT, you just go !!!!! it rarely drags. I have tried all other Bazooka's, except the Columbia (sorry Arron). The TT runs really smooth, very little resistance in my opinion:thumbsup:
> 
> Here's the only picture I could find of my Bazooka Mr tape tech (Mike Ventura). Isn't she sexxie, she's so sexxie, that I had to spell sexy different because she's so sexxie. If you want to make a copy of my Tape tech Bazooka, and hang it on your office wall, I will understand:whistling2:


Man you smoking roc, I got my Columbia running like a Bracket Racer with a 427 if your talking drag, I got none a I roll fast and the **** you say about dry tapes I got none, everyone who has ran my Zooika **** there pants, but my secret will cost you to bucks:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Man you smoking roc, I got my Columbia running like a Bracket Racer with a 427 if your talking drag, I got none a I roll fast and the **** you say about dry tapes I got none, everyone who has ran my Zooika **** there pants, but my secret will cost you to bucks:whistling2:


I only got 2 peso's ,,, will that do:whistling2:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Man you smoking roc, I got my Columbia running like a Bracket Racer with a 427 if your talking drag, I got none a I roll fast and the **** you say about dry tapes I got none, everyone who has ran my Zooika **** there pants, but my secret will cost you to bucks:whistling2:


My columbia not runnin so fast now
Anything u know TELL me PLEASE


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Gee I thought you'd NEVER ask,,,,,,,
> 
> We need a zooka that has an adjustable mud flow,,, not so much as a simple banjo has, why that would way to much to ask for,,,,
> 
> 1) zooka makers COULD offer differant shaft sizes,,, that would increase the "gear ratio" on the cable wind, that would increase the amount of mud being loaded on the tape


Here's a thought Capt, try wrapping a few layers of duct tape or something around the cable drum to see what it would work like, the tape won't last but atleast you'd know what sized drum would suit.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

I like the adjustable flow idea capt...It may make a can of worms a bigger can for beginner tapers..maybe a gate that is 3 way...say light/regular/wfo..you can run it on light or regular for flat/butt taping and wfo when doing angles..I have NEVER been able to glaze with a 3 first and why I run 2/3 instead of 3/2

one thing that irks me and wears me out at the end of the day...why the hell do you have to yank a cutter what seems a foot to get the cutting blade to move 2"

I understand the "don't change what isn't broken" concept..but sometimes "time for change" is good...chevy reborn the camaro recently and I, for one, would buy a new one in a "heartbeat" if I didn't have to go bankrupt to do it


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

These are very interesting ideas, gentlemen. And certainly something we'll investigate regarding feasibility, cost and durability as we look towards future tapers. The concept of adjustment based on application and personal preference is always appealing but not always widely used in practice; there are a number of examples (good and bad) in both automatic taping and finishing tools as well as power tools (my previous world). 

Every idea for improvement deserves some investigation and we'll be sure to ask for feedback if there are developments.

Good Finishing!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

TapeTech said:


> These are very interesting ideas, gentlemen. And certainly something we'll investigate regarding feasibility, cost and durability as we look towards future tapers. The concept of adjustment based on application and personal preference is always appealing but not always widely used in practice; there are a number of examples (good and bad) in both automatic taping and finishing tools as well as power tools (my previous world).
> 
> Every idea for improvement deserves some investigation and we'll be sure to ask for feedback if there are developments.
> 
> Good Finishing!


Yes, everyone has Tim the tool man mentality, stronger, bigger, faster etc.... To be honest, with your new pump design, that has different flow values , everyone will keep it on the fastest setting.

But if you have ever ran a bazooka, it's weird that most manufacturers will recommend a 3.5 and 2.5 to do angles, have you tried to get the 3.5 running right with the amount of mud the tube gives you ? then when you do flat tapes, about every 2 feet or so, your putting mud back in your pan. It leaves too much mud on for flats and not enough for angles when using the larger heads IMO


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

////


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

TapeTech said:


> These are very interesting ideas, gentlemen.


Mike, with all due respect, those are ideas/frustrations that pretty much anyone who's run a bazooka to any degree would've experienced in real work situations. (Are you sure your product team doesn't have a list somewhere of things like that, gathered over the years from bazooka users and their own research, that they haven't gotten around to showing you yet?)  



TapeTech said:


> And certainly something we'll investigate regarding feasibility, cost and durability as we look towards future tapers.


It was once mentioned that TT was able to get a 1,200.00 bazooka made for less than 100.00, BEfore China. True? If so, and those kind of markups are what's needed to make a product like a bazooka feasible enough (I'm assuming that TT's main shareholders are still mostly interested in making money - not that I blame them), then what can users really expect in future taper advancements? More problem complexity than what a bazooka can already offer? It would be nice if that weren't the case.

But I'm thinking that it usually can be harder to charge more for 'elegant simplicity' (unless maybe one has a patent on the particular elegance(?)), and be able to successfully sell that to the buying public. I'm hoping TT and other mfrs. can find a design balance that will serve both them and their customers interests well.



TapeTech said:


> The concept of adjustment based on application and personal preference is always appealing but not always widely used in practice; there are a number of examples (good and bad) in both automatic taping and finishing tools as well as power tools (my previous world).
> 
> Every idea for improvement deserves some investigation and we'll be sure to ask for feedback if there are developments.


Some initial feedback/food for thought: Ask those of us who use banjos as well for taping, about just how much mud flow adjustment can get used (my adjustment screw on my Ames banjo has stripped out from my using it so much. It didn't take me overly long to do that - one problem being the adjuster design itself, as well as my use of the adjuster so much. Now I jam a metal piece under the mud flow adjustment plate to adjust the flow, till I get around to fixing it sometime).



2buckcanuck said:


> then when you do flat tapes, about every 2 feet or so, your putting mud back in your pan. It leaves too much mud on for flats


Except for the spot about 4" into a tape, where there isn't any mud behind the tape (I got to fix up some of those the other day, that were run by a guy using his Northstar. But as you once said, all bazookas do it, and you have to adjust/compensate for it).



2buckcanuck said:


> and not enough for angles when using the larger heads IMO


And when you run into an angle with a bevel, to try and start filling......

------

My Canadian Loonie's worth.


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

Thanks for the thorough message. To be frank, I make no assumptions that any information already exists within the product team. I always take feedback from the field and challenge the team to prove or disprove the concept. I have found this to be the best way. Pulling things forward from the past drags other things along with it (e.g. preconceived notions, etc). I find it best to operate from the position that even if something didn't "fit" in the past doesn't mean it won't fit now; many times things are just ahead of their time.

I liked your comment about "elegant simplicity". I have challenged the design team to produce a Taper that has 66% fewer parts on it. Can it be done? I don't know. Will users accept it? I don't know that either. It's very often difficult to get users to accept new changes and innovations; especially in a product that has seen almost no change or innovation in nearly 50 years! And judging by many of the posts on the Forum, what would you guys do if you didn't have so many parts to change, service, tweak and modify? 

We'll see what happens as we move forward and we'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks again for your thoughts and feedback. It's truly appreciated.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

TapeTech said:


> And judging by many of the posts on the Forum, what would you guys do if you didn't have so many parts to change, service, tweak and modify?


Are you making fun of us?  :thumbsup:

Looking forward to seeing what your different way of approaching things will bring about.


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

*Taping*

If you are looking for something in between a banjo and an auto taper, we have a couple of options available that are quite popular in Australia:

http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=wmb
http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=mbp

No frills, easy to clean, does the job.
Both have mud flow adjusters.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> My columbia not runnin so fast now
> Anything u know TELL me PLEASE


what kind of problems you having with your Zooka? and how old is it?


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I only got 2 peso's ,,, will that do:whistling2:



you could not even buy a sq foot of roc with 2 Peso


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> My columbia not runnin so fast now
> Anything u know TELL me PLEASE


 Here's a waste of everyones time.

If you want it to run faster and smoother,, use WD-40,, alot of it. 

Quit using lithium,silicon, lanolin and whatever else your using.

Sure, your gonna have to replace the plunger cup every cpl years,,,, but you did ask what will make it run FASTER and smoother !!!!!!


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Here's a waste of everyones time.
> 
> If you want it to run faster and smoother,, use WD-40,, alot of it.
> 
> ...



interesting I had to do a little more than that to mine but that is great it works for you, I have used other peoples Zook ( and yes it is a Privilege) and found it like pushing a stream Roller down the wall


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> what kind of problems you having with your Zooka? and how old is it?


 Took captian's advice gave it a blast and workin no bad again but main wheel is still stiff2 turn!!! Think i need 2 take it 2 bits so i can get the wheel running smooth!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> Took captian's advice gave it a blast and workin no bad again but main wheel is still stiff2 turn!!! Think i need 2 take it 2 bits so i can get the wheel running smooth!


Could be several things doing that,,, one thing to check is the main drive chain. I had one get a bad link in it once(like your bike chain did way back when), it would bind as it was going over the gear. Easy to check, just spin it slowly and watch it, if you have a bad link, you'll see it. Could be the bushing that the wheel runs on needs to be replaced. Another odd problem I had once, the nylon cup that sits under the plunger cup,I guess it would problly be called the plunger itself, actully "swelled" up and it was bind the tube as it came up. I took it out, hooked it to a battery drill and using floor sanding paper, 20 grit) sanded it down.

good luck,, keep looking at it and messing with it and you will figure it out!!

A way to tell if you have a plunger problem is this. Run the plunger all the way up, till the dog releases and your "free-wheeling". If you still have a problem of drag on your wheels, then you don't have a plunger problem. Another way to tell is turn the tube upside down and look down it, if you have mud streaks caked on the side of your tube, you have a plunger cup problem.

Most of my problems are usually, lose bolts,screws or bent parts. I will admit to killing many plunger cups to wd-40, but I don't care if I have to change that every month, wd-40 makes em run so much better I look at it like neccacary maintenance.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Could be several things doing that,,, one thing to check is the main drive chain. I had one get a bad link in it once(like your bike chain did way back when), it would bind as it was going over the gear. Easy to check, just spin it slowly and watch it, if you have a bad link, you'll see it. Could be the bushing that the wheel runs on needs to be replaced. Another odd problem I had once, the nylon cup that sits under the plunger cup,I guess it would problly be called the plunger itself, actully "swelled" up and it was bind the tube as it came up. I took it out, hooked it to a battery drill and using floor sanding paper, 20 grit) sanded it down.
> 
> good luck,, keep looking at it and messing with it and you will figure it out!!
> 
> ...


All good points by the captain, just to add to it

the bushings on that wheel, it's one thing a lot of guys over look. Their just two CHEAP little things of plastic, that should be addressed in the "to build a better bazooka" thread. Try spinning the wheel and watch for a wobble in it. If you want to go more drastic , just back the front sprocket/gear off so you can free the chain off. then spin the wheel, watch to see if it wobbles, and if it feels stiff.

Another sign, if the tube runs free then stiff, free then stiff, free then stiff, Then odds are it COULD be those bushing. If it feels constantly stiff. Then re-read the Captains post.

And honestly, soak the head of the bazooka a few days in some tranny fluid or any type of thin machine oil. or, as I have said before, high water pressure on the wheel of that bazooka, get it spinning, the bazooka will sound like a chain saw b/c the chain gets spinning around so fast. Keep it chain side up laying on the ground, and let it spin for 30 seconds. Take it to a coin operated car wash


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Could be several things doing that,,, one thing to check is the main drive chain. I had one get a bad link in it once(like your bike chain did way back when), it would bind as it was going over the gear. Easy to check, just spin it slowly and watch it, if you have a bad link, you'll see it. Could be the bushing that the wheel runs on needs to be replaced. Another odd problem I had once, the nylon cup that sits under the plunger cup,I guess it would problly be called the plunger itself, actully "swelled" up and it was bind the tube as it came up. I took it out, hooked it to a battery drill and using floor sanding paper, 20 grit) sanded it down.
> 
> good luck,, keep looking at it and messing with it and you will figure it out!!
> 
> ...


When its free wheeling as u call it,its still stiff 2 turn but its seems 2 b easing off a bit used it today and was running good! Think the head must of had a knock and needs the wheel taken out and side plates played with!!


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

Your tape slides for several reasons;

Your taper wheels on the big drum are worn. Edges are rounded off and slide over the wall instead of holding the wall as you go. This combines with the next reason.

You are not pushing the tube on the wall hard enough. You have to pinch the tape to the wall with the toothy tape wheels or it will slide.

You are bringing the front of the tube forward to lead you down the wall to soon. The tape friction out of the tube is the greatest when the tape reels off the tube in a forward motion then goes around the head to be left behind you. The looping around the head pulls lots and lots on the tape on the wall. Leave the tube pointing back behind you towards the starting point, press harder so the tape stays pinched on the wall as it comes out. Then swing the tube in front to lead you when you are 6 ft. or so down the wall. Then there will be enough tape on the wall to counter your pulling on it. 



M T Buckets Painting said:


> I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious:
> 
> Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

Yer chain assemley digs cause the tube is not out from the wall at a 45 degree angle. Yer holding the tail end low and shoving the side into the wall.


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

When you cut the tape push it back on the wall for a couple inchs right where you just ended. That will 'reprime' the upcoming tape. Then start you new run. The machine is doing exactly what it was built to do. 




2buckcanuck said:


> Get rid of that dry spot that comes 3 or 4 inches when a new tape is placed. It's not a big deal with long tapes etc. But when you do a short tape above a door (header joint) you will get a dry spot. When your racing with the bazooka, and you have dumb dumbs chasing/wiping behind you, they never catch it. It has got to the point, that when I do short tapes now, I feed out the tape 8 to 10 inches now, then place it to the short joint.which slows things down.
> 
> Why is there a dry spot 4 or 5 inches in on a new tape, it happens with all models of Bazook


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

These are slick. Friend of mine has used one he has had since 90's maybe 80's. Not sure when they first came out. He is probably 60, a fair bit under 6-0 tall and has no problem reaching ceilings with it. He is faster than a banjo as you just keep running it down the joint like a tube instead of step and slap like a banjo. 

He has used most of roll of duct tape keeping it together as there haven't been any of them here for a long time. Kick myself for not grabbint two of the off ebay a month or so ago. 

They seem to be about 600$ now. Is that correct or can they be had cheaper? Any parts avalible?

Tape tech, why don't you just run a hole off a Mark V into this like the banjo that loaded by a hand pump some years back?




tomg said:


> If you are looking for something in between a banjo and an auto taper, we have a couple of options available that are quite popular in Australia:
> 
> http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=wmb
> http://www.tapepro.com/?p=tools&t=mbp
> ...


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

No, do not use wd-40. It is a penetrant, not a lubricant. Sure it is slicker when it first goes on. The best thing about it is it does chase the water out of your parts and prevents rust for a while. But the slippery part evaporates off quickly and does not leave any lubricant. After ‘chasing’ the water out then use motor oil or you favorite slippery stuff to provide the lube. Note the bazooka company’s all supply oil. They are all runny like sewing machine oil. 
The problem with a lot of oil is they wash off with the brush cleaning when you wash the mud slop off. The only oil I know of that is sticky is chainsaw bar oil. But that is real thick. 
10-40 or so motor oil applied after the wd-40 gets into the tight spaces as the wd-40 cuts (thins) the oil a bit before it evaporates. The oil can then actually do it lube job as the wd-40 helps it get where you need it. 

Perhaps if bar oil was mixed with 5 or 10 weight oil then it might get into the tight spots and not wash off every time you clean it. JB 80 leaves behind fairly sticky oil. But isn’t thin enough to get in to the tight spots. Perhaps use it following wd-40.
Or use a lithium or water proof spray on. 
Use anything oily after the wd-40 gets the water out. Just do not use only wd.




Capt-sheetrock said:


> Here's a waste of everyones time.
> 
> If you want it to run faster and smoother,, use WD-40,, alot of it.
> 
> ...


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

I agree the wd up the butt of the tube is fine, and it does slick up the plunger (piston). It is easy to squirt up there to. No reason not to. 




Capt-sheetrock said:


> Could be several things doing that,,, one thing to check is the main drive chain. I had one get a bad link in it once(like your bike chain did way back when), it would bind as it was going over the gear. Easy to check, just spin it slowly and watch it, if you have a bad link, you'll see it. Could be the bushing that the wheel runs on needs to be replaced. Another odd problem I had once, the nylon cup that sits under the plunger cup,I guess it would problly be called the plunger itself, actully "swelled" up and it was bind the tube as it came up. I took it out, hooked it to a battery drill and using floor sanding paper, 20 grit) sanded it down.
> 
> good luck,, keep looking at it and messing with it and you will figure it out!!
> 
> ...


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Justa Hick said:


> Tape tech, why don't you just run a hole off a Mark V into this like the banjo that loaded by a hand pump some years back?


Reminds me of a favourite Einstein saying: _Make things as simple as possible, but no simpler_.

I'm thinking what you're suggesting as a replacement for TT's cfs bazooka taping part might be a little too simple.

But maybe not by much. At least in some ways.


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> I want a taper that is easier to use. I still cuss like a sailor while using mine. Long tapes, short tapes, start in the angle with 3" hanging over and by the time I get to the 3 way it is 3" short where I started.:furious:
> 
> Oops, maybe my bazooka is looking for a user that has a few more changes to him to make him a better operator.


That pretty much sums it up, "better operator". It's all in the way you use it. I'm not saying improvements coulden't be made but it's a fine tool the way it is when you really have "learned it". It doesn't run itself.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Justa Hick said:


> The problem with a lot of oil is they wash off with the brush cleaning when you wash the mud slop off. The only oil I know of that is sticky is chainsaw bar oil. But that is real thick.
> 
> Perhaps if bar oil was mixed with 5 or 10 weight oil then it might get into the tight spots and not wash off every time you clean it.


What's your thoughts about Winter chainsaw bar oil. Still too thick?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Say what ya will, but till they come up with a better lube than wd-40,,, I'm sticking too it.

A plunger cup is like 3 or 4 bucks and takes like less than an hour to change(that includes drinking beer):whistling2:

Small price to pay for a zooka with ZERO drag.:thumbsup:

Wd-40 collects NO dust,,, thats what makes it THE premier lube.:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Justa Hick said:


> When you cut the tape push it back on the wall for a couple inchs right where you just ended. That will 'reprime' the upcoming tape. Then start you new run. The machine is doing exactly what it was built to do.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## msd (Apr 10, 2011)

I THINK THE BEST IMPROVEMENT WOULD BE TO INVENT A ROBOT TO PUSH IT AROUND SO I DONT HAVE TO:yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

msd said:


> I THINK THE BEST IMPROVEMENT WOULD BE TO INVENT A ROBOT TO PUSH IT AROUND SO I DONT HAVE TO:yes:


Give it a little time. It's coming:


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Give it a little time. It's coming:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2gVMfmN_-k


that little mouse is screaming suicide..you hear it? he stopped it just before it got to the window too damn the luck


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

a banjo runner does not have that problem so I cant help. We had a 30 year bazooka guy help on a current job,older tube and a bigger guy. Lets just say the tube was put up shortly after it was broke out. Zooks definitly have a place on some jobs , not all tho. My 1rst year guy Jason blew his doors off with my banjo:thumbsup: and my hands stayed clean wipin. I still have only met 2 guys in my life that can run a zook like it is meant to run. :whistling2:


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

chris said:


> a banjo runner does not have that problem so I cant help. We had a 30 year bazooka guy help on a current job,older tube and a bigger guy. Lets just say the tube was put up shortly after it was broke out. Zooks definitly have a place on some jobs , not all tho. My 1rst year guy Jason blew his doors off with my banjo:thumbsup: and my hands stayed clean wipin. I still have only met 2 guys in my life that can run a zook like it is meant to run. :whistling2:


Only in potato land:lol::laughing:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Only in potato land:lol::laughing:


I grew a 4 lb red potato:yes:. Hey PA those eagles gonna show up today?


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Hell no. At least I hope not. We have too many Eagles fans. I pull for the Steelers and Redskins. :red_indian:


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

Straight chainsaw oil, no. Regular 5 or 10/30 works good. After using wd 40 to chase out the water. Engine oils is dirt cheap and works. 






JustMe said:


> What's your thoughts about Winter chainsaw bar oil. Still too thick?


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

Never said i was the only one who knows how to run one. 
Why is this whole site so quick to make these presumptions on everyone?


Though i haven't heard of too many people cycling 2-3 at once to save the trip back to the pump. I had a young puppy run the tubes back and forth so i just kept peeling it out. My own version of cfs 20 years ago. 


As to the improvements; They were made when premere came out with the forward pointing head, then the removable head.

The last evolution is Tape Tech with the CFS.



I ran the 2nd and third generation prototypes in Mn couple years back on a 40 unt. They had it mostly right then. Havent seen the final version yet. 

The argument between Apla Tech and TT CFS is pretty well summed up by what Aplat Tech them selves told me 6-7 years back on a field run to Wisconsion for two days with their crews on their houses. New tapers catch on to Aplas because they have no preconcieved ideas (or old habits) on how toos should operate. That is they are not botherd by a tube that cuts tape on the push instead of pulling the chain. Old guys can't get used to the change in operation of its parts and stay with what they know. 

I told TT to not change anything as to how the tools operate as we are used to how they have been since the 50's. If they make big changes than it will feel like a left handed tool to a right handed person.




2buckcanuck said:


> Justa Hick said:
> 
> 
> > When you cut the tape push it back on the wall for a couple inchs right where you just ended. That will 'reprime' the upcoming tape. Then start you new run. The machine is doing exactly what it was built to do.
> ...


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## Justa Hick (Nov 23, 2008)

chris said:


> I grew a 4 lb red potato:yes:. Hey PA those eagles gonna show up today?


 
Awesome tatters out north west. Always went to Burgerville in oregon area in 90's. Them large tater orders stuck out the top of a super size soda cup. Had to be 8-10 inchs tall. Best fries ever.


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## dieselman350 (Aug 21, 2012)

I know ill probably get shot down for saying this cuz most of you guys dont seem to like there tools other than there angle heads but ive had tt and Columbia tubes and my old tapeworm is by far the smoothest running they are worth a try i agree there boxes are nothing special i like Columbia myself but the zook is another story


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

dieselman350 said:


> I know ill probably get shot down for saying this cuz most of you guys dont seem to like there tools other than there angle heads but ive had tt and Columbia tubes and my old tapeworm is by far the smoothest running they are worth a try i agree there boxes are nothing special i like Columbia myself but the zook is another story



If that's what it is to you, then that's what it is to you.

Or maybe you just got lucky. Or unlucky.


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

Just found this thread and will read through thoroughly in the morning... If i can sleep now


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

OKAY COULDNT SLEEP AND READ THROUGH IT, THE THREAD KINDA WENT OFF TOPIC TO HOW TO REPAIR THE TOOL.... LUCKILY BOTH ARE RIGHT UP MY ALLEY.

MY OPINION ON LUBRICANT:

WD40 AS I POSTED IN ANOTHER THREAD IS NOT GOOD TO USE AS IT DRIES OUT PLASTIC AND RUBBER PARTS (PLUNGERS, PLUNGER CUPS, WIPERS, NYLINER BEARINGS, NYLINER SEALS, TENITE BEARINGS, CHAIN ROLLERS, CREASER WHEELS, GOOSER GUIDES, GOOSER ASSEMBLIES ETC.)
USE BAZOOKA OIL OR EVEN BETTER PNEUMATIC (AIR) TOOL OIL OR FOOD GRADE SILICONE SPRAY (IT LUBRICATES,WATERPROOFS AND IS SAFE TO USE ON PLASTICS AND RUBBER) 

TAPER REPAIR & OPERATION TROUBLESHOOTING:

THERE ARE LOTS OF THINGS TO LOOK FOR WITH SO MANY PARTS. I WILL LINK COLUMBIAS TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE ALONG WITH MY OWN INPUT (MOST WILL BE COMMON KNOWLEDGE TO YOU HARDENED VETERANS)

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CCcQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.columbiatools.com%2Fskin%2Ffrontend%2Fdefault%2Fmodern%2Fimages%2Fmedia%2Fpdf%2FTroubleShooting-MaintenanceGuide.pdf&ei=-g9HUPG7LKHliALV_4H4Bg&usg=AFQjCNHCAGxZTR1ScnKMtj3P2o7vjYDr3g&sig2=pepI8pBf1Tn155UgZHqz7Q

#1-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM:
THUMP, THUMP, THUMP WHEN PUMPING

CAUSE:
DRIVE CLUTCH CONTACTING CHAIN ROLLER SCREW

SOLUTION:
1- MAKE SURE YOUR CHAIN ROLLER SUPPORT SCREWS ARE TIGHTENED
IF THAT CURES PROBLEM-GREAT!-IF NOT PROCEED TO STEP 2
2- PUT A PUNCH OR SCREWDRIVER TO THE ROUND HEAD SCREW GOING THROUGH YOUR CHAIN ROLLER AND GIVE A FEW TAPS WITH A HAMMER UNTIL YOU HAVE CLEARANCE

#2--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM:
TAPE CATCHING ON BLADE DURING ADVANCE

CAUSE: CHAIN STRETCHED

SOLUTION:
1: TRY REVERSING YOUR CUTTER CHAIN- REMOVE COTTER PINS AND PUT THE SPRING SIDE OF CHAIN ON THE LINK TUBE SIDE AND VICE-VERSA, PUT BLADE ON THE REVERSE SIDE AND RE-INSTALL
IF THAT CURES PROBLEM-GREAT!-IF NOT PROCEED TO STEP 2
2: REPLACE CHAIN ASSEMBLY

#3---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM:
TOO MUCH PLAY IN TRIGGER ASSEMBLY

SOLUTION:
LOOSEN SCREWS ON BOTTOM BAND AND MOVE BAND DOWN UNTIL HAPPY

#4--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM:
SLOPPY TAPE SPOOL

SOLUTION:
PLACE A FILLER O-RING BEHIND SPOOL

#5---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM:
STIFF OPERATION

CAUSE:
MULTIPLE

SOLUTION:
1- CHECK CHAIN TENSION
2- CHECK FOR DENTS IN TUBE AND CONDITION OF PLUNGER ASSY.
3- CHECK FOR TIGHTNESS AGAINST TAPE WHEELS
WITH PUSH ROD ENGAGED (FREEWHEELING AS IVE HEARD IT CALLED) HOLD THE TAPER FACING AWAY FROM YOU WITH A FINGER UNDER THE WHEEL PRESSING THE BRAKE ROLLER SLIGHTLY BACK, WITH THE OTHER HAND SPIN YOUR WHEELS- NOT MOVING FREELY? PLACE A LARGE FLATHEAD BETWEEN THE WHEEL AND SIDEPLATE AND BEND SIDEPLATE SLIGHTLY AWAY FROM THE WHEEL SO YOU HAVE A LITTLE PLAY BETWEEN THE WHEEL AND HUB


I WILL EDIT THIS AS I CAN THINK OF ANYMORE BUT ITS 2AM HERE IN CALIFORNIA AND IVE GOT SOME TAPERS TO TUNE IN THE MORNING SO GONNA GRAB SOME SHUTEYE


AS FOR HOW TO BUILD A BETTER TAPER:

I HAVE THINGS IN THE WORKS BUT DONT WANT TO GIVE AWAY TOO MUCH AT THE MOMENT. LOOKING INTO PATENTS AND SUCH BUT REST ASSURED ITS NOT ONLY THE WELL KNOWN TOOL MANUFACTURERS LOOKING TO BUILD A BETTER MOUSETRAP.A MANUFACTURER WOULD DO WELL TO SNATCH ME UP AND INTERROGATE ME- BUT I WONT GO OUT WITHOUT A FIGHT.... OR SIGNED CONTRACT

THIS CONCLUDES THE LONGEST POST I HAVE EVER WRITTEN
HOPE IT HELPS SOME ONE
JEFF


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Design a better gooser WM4, or at least something that works better than a pin/needle. If the needle is one mil too deep, it stays stuck near the top. One mil not deep enough, your tape slides out/off. And why do they make the needle so dam short:furious:, I know of many who have stuck a nail or a sewing needle in place of it, I'm about to be one of them. it was a smart idea at the time, on how they figured out how to feed the tape, but 50 odd years later, you would think there was a better way. Some type of gear or something, that slides up a ramp then drops back down, I don't know.........

My zook has so many miles on it now, put a whole new gooser assembly on it, but every other part around it is so worn or stripped , it's the main reason I'm getting new Columbia (Plus Aaron shined it under my nose in a parking lot, it was so shiny and new, I couldn't resist,,,,,, I think Aaron might be a tool Pimp:jester


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Design a better gooser WM4, or at least something that works better than a pin/needle. If the needle is one mil too deep, it stays stuck near the top. One mil not deep enough, your tape slides out/off. And why do they make the needle so dam short:furious:, I know of many who have stuck a nail or a sewing needle in place of it, I'm about to be one of them. it was a smart idea at the time, on how they figured out how to feed the tape, but 50 odd years later, you would think there was a better way. Some type of gear or something, that slides up a ramp then drops back down, I don't know.........
> 
> My zook has so many miles on it now, put a whole new gooser assembly on it, but every other part around it is so worn or stripped , it's the main reason I'm getting new Columbia (Plus Aaron shined it under my nose in a parking lot, it was so shiny and new, I couldn't resist,,,,,, I think Aaron might be a tool Pimp:jester


 How much did she cost MrBuck?
And doing deals in a parkin lot:blink: I like ur style:thumbsup:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> How much did she cost MrBuck?
> And doing deals in a parkin lot:blink: I like ur style:thumbsup:


2buck was doing deals in parking lots before he was into drywall


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Change the gooser, it's made out of plastic, and the plastic sleeve/post it runs up. The post wears out too fast, wears out like the shape of a hour glass, then the needle gets too wobbly.
> 
> And a better chain guide/tension thing that sits under the chain, make it so you can adjust it, in stead of having to whack it with a hammer to adjust it. so there's less play in the chain:yes:


Hey 2 buck, Id like you to have an improvement on the gooser guide/rod I designed.
(Im not selling here, I want you to have one) so i can have a dwt members opinion. This is not R&D - I know these work and use them all the time.
PATENT PENDING

IMPROVEMENTS:
strength at the top
ease of replacement 
cost

i have not improved on the wear but its equal to the mfrs and after initial installment (just as you would the mfrs) 
Replacement guides/rods/posts can be installed in under a minute without taking off the chain guide

pm me with an address if interested:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

wrenchmonkey4 said:


> Hey 2 buck, Id like you to have an improvement on the creaser guide/rod I designed.
> (Im not selling here, I want you to have one) so i can have a dwt members opinion. This is not R&D - I know these work and use them all the time.
> COPYRIGHT PENDING
> 
> ...


Sure thing, will try it on my old TT that is being sold to 2bjr. Will be getting the new Columbia in a few months, it's in holding. 2bjr owes me 900 bucks, plus the sale of the old TT (that he better not pawn).so....

It may take a few months to give a honest review back to you, for what your sending me, and a review on the Col. zook. Aaron sold me the blue one, said the one with the hardened name (black one) on it only walltools can sell it. But he said they were both the exact same thing, except for the colour...... I hope so:blink:,,,,, or I might half to trade moose boy for his, since he don't know how to use it yet:whistling2:

Just make sure you stick around this site, right now, your the most knowledgeable member on this site, who knows secret wisdom, about the tools we use. If any of those young bucks start to pick on you, just let us old bucks know,,,,,,, We have your back for you







:yes:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> If any of those young bucks start to pick on you, just let us old bucks know,,,,,,, We have your back for you
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You win the shirt 2buck :whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudshark said:


> You win the shirt 2buck :whistling2:


Thanks for the reminder Mudshark, where's the Dues you owe me









2 bucks a month:whistling2:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thanks for the reminder Mudshark, where's the Dues you owe me
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The dues have been sent to Ottawa. :furious:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Your dues - last one got lost in the mail


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

wrenchmonkey4 said:


> Hey 2 buck, Id like you to have an improvement on the creaser guide/rod I designed.
> (Im not selling here, I want you to have one) so i can have a dwt members opinion. This is not R&D - I know these work and use them all the time.
> COPYRIGHT PENDING
> 
> ...


'COPYRIGHT PENDING'? I thought copyrights were automatic. Did you mean 'PATENT PENDING'?

Just looking out for your intellectual property interests.


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

JustMe said:


> 'COPYRIGHT PENDING'? I thought copyrights were automatic. Did you mean 'PATENT PENDING'?
> 
> Just looking out for your intellectual property interests.


your not picking on me r u?:boxing: i got back up!

yeah patent pending is what i meant.... keep in mind im the REPAIR GUY, not the LAWYER GUY (that would be my uncle- uncle lawyer guy, i call him)

Ill post a youtube video if i can get his OK


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

wrenchmonkey4 said:


> yeah patent pending is what i meant.... keep in mind im the REPAIR GUY



And the INVENTOR GUY as well.


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## West (Aug 9, 2012)

I will be honest and say that I don't think I would change a thing on a bazooka, I have owned Premier, Tape Tech and Columbia. My favorite are Columbia and Tape Tech but have just ran Columbia for the last 12 years. Biggest mistake I see new users doing is not lubing properly and adjusting the brake so you have minimum drag on the head. First thing I show my newbies when they get a new bazooka is how to adjust the brake so you don't pull tapes, back before there was a adjuster I would just bend the break pin till the drag was right. Only oil I have used that lasts the best is Unival from Home Hardware, best oil going and I have tried them all.
Just my 2 cents

Sean


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

West said:


> I will be honest and say that I don't think I would change a thing on a bazooka, I have owned Premier, Tape Tech and Columbia. My favorite are Columbia and Tape Tech but have just ran Columbia for the last 12 years. Biggest mistake I see new users doing is not lubing properly and adjusting the brake so you have minimum drag on the head. First thing I show my newbies when they get a new bazooka is how to adjust the brake so you don't pull tapes, back before there was a adjuster I would just bend the break pin till the drag was right. Only oil I have used that lasts the best is Unival from Home Hardware, best oil going and I have tried them all.
> Just my 2 cents
> 
> Sean[/QUOTE
> ...


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Gee I thought you'd NEVER ask,,,,,,,
> 
> We need a zooka that has an adjustable mud flow,,, not so much as a simple banjo has, why that would way to much to ask for,,,,
> 
> ...


Changing the gear would work but I think it would have to be a smaller one to increase cable speed and you would also need a different chain (both sprockets and gears are expensive and time consuming to change) The alternative would be to increase the size of the cable drum which is a little less time consuming but still a job. If this idea were to be developed I think there would have to be a modification done to the drive chain system where a sprocket could be quickly exchanged and the chain tensioning system modified so you wouldnt need other chains... If this is a common thought by you all, I might just have to put on my thinking cap:detective:


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> What ideas do guys have to make the Bazooka better.
> 
> I got a dumb minor idea, a transparent 4 or 5 inch by 1/4" window near the top of the tube, yes I know you hear a click click click when there's 4 or 5 feet left. But sometimes the damn thing feels more heavier than it should, or lighter, and you miss judge.
> 
> ...


What would you guys think of a clear tube altogether? possibly polycarbonate? would make it easy to see mud left inside as well as see if your plunger cup is needing replacement.... wish i had money to run with these ideas- instead I just post them here for manufacturers to steal:wallbash:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

wrenchmonkey4 said:


> What would you guys think of a clear tube altogether? possibly polycarbonate? would make it easy to see mud left inside as well as see if your plunger cup is needing replacement.... wish i had money to run with these ideas- instead I just post them here for manufacturers to steal:wallbash:


Sounds good but wonder how much weight that would add as opposed to aluminum? :blink:


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

Mudshark said:


> Sounds good but wonder how much weight that would add as opposed to aluminum? :blink:


that was my thought as well, would have to be a thin wall tubing and a crack would be worse than a dent


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## wrenchmonkey4 (Jul 25, 2012)

wrenchmonkey4 said:


> Changing the gear would work but I think it would have to be a smaller one to increase cable speed and you would also need a different chain (both sprockets and gears are expensive and time consuming to change) The alternative would be to increase the size of the cable drum which is a little less time consuming but still a job. If this idea were to be developed I think there would have to be a modification done to the drive chain system where a sprocket could be quickly exchanged and the chain tensioning system modified so you wouldnt need other chains... If this is a common thought by you all, I might just have to put on my thinking cap:detective:


okay I was thinking of making the large sprocket smaller & shortening the chain in my last post but then it hit me.... you could also make the small sprocket bigger to increase the speed- and that one is easily exchangeable!!!!! also there is slack in the current chain that could accommodate a larger sprocket. As I only run a lathe and mill i'd have to leave that to the mfrs with their fancy cnc machines tho


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