# Internal angle sander



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

<img src="http://www.smilys.net/sheep/smiley3051.gif" alt="smiley3051.gif"><img src="http://www.smilys.net/sheep/smiley3051.gif" alt="smiley3051.gif"><img src="http://www.smilys.net/sheep/smiley3051.gif" alt="smiley3051.gif"><img src="http://www.smilys.net/sheep/smiley3051.gif" alt="smiley3051.gif">


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Vanman posted these pics in the new tool thread, thought it was worthy of a thread of it's own. I know some may think this tool is point less, but that's exactly what this tool can do, leave a perfect point in the angle.

I'm always on the look out for a tool like this or something like it. You don't really try sanding your internal angles out with it (at least I don't) you cut/sand a point with it. We use a can-am head, which can leave a rounded point. Even with the good mechanical heads, spit lines can be left behind in your angles. When it comes to light check out , you will find no need to sponge out your angles.

So Vanman will half to let us know how this tool performs, and how long the sanding pads last. Maybe Joe from trim-tex can design something better:yes:

Hope you don't mind me using your pics Vanman


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Here is something we have been playing around with......

I have been trying to figure out a way so you can get a angle sponge operational on a pole sander. Last week a







moment came to me. In pic one I used some trim-tex glue to stick some foam back sanding paper to the angle sponge. The foam back sanding paper works on a felx edge sander, shown in pic #2

In pic #3, Richards makes a angle sander I thought would be perfect. Has a low profile, which is what you want, you can operate it faster and it wont flip or skip on you too much. In pic #4, it even shows it with a pole sander attached to it, which you can't. And worst of all, the point on it was too rounded:furious:

The norton (pink one) would be the same as the Richards if you cut it down, but we found it wares out too fast. You might get 2 houses out of it, and at 8 bucks a pop for us Canucks,,,, well..... The other richards one, in pic #2, comes with a foam handle that we cut off. We found it last much longer, about 10 houses or so, till the sander loses it's point. I also have the feeling I may half to chop the Richards sander down more, it may be sitting too high. Will be testing it this week.

So if any of you guys have any smarter ideas,,,,,,,, Or,,,,, maybe Trim-tex can design something better:yes:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Vanman posted these pics in the new tool thread, thought it was worthy of a thread of it's own. I know some may think this tool is point less, but that's exactly what this tool can do, leave a perfect point in the angle.
> 
> I'm always on the look out for a tool like this or something like it. You don't really try sanding your internal angles out with it (at least I don't) you cut/sand a point with it. We use a can-am head, which can leave a rounded point. Even with the good mechanical heads, spit lines can be left behind in your angles. When it comes to light check out , you will find no need to sponge out your angles.
> 
> ...


 No Mr Buck u have the rights 2 them!:thumbup:


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

2 buck I have been using the red sears corner sander for my internals for two years now and have just changed the sanding pads for the first time they last for ages . I use angle heads to do my internals and sand in between coats they are a tool that you should not be with out. The captain put me on to them he has been using them for years .


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Lloydnz said:


> 2 buck I have been using the red sears corner sander for my internals for two years now and have just changed the sanding pads for the first time they last for ages . I use angle heads to do my internals and sand in between coats they are a tool that you should not be with out. The captain put me on to them he has been using them for years .


Where did you get it from Lloydnz? locally or overseas? have you tried using it on a pole?


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

Hi kiwiman I got It from allwall in the us online. I use it on a pole all the time. I would not be with out it. You need a pole with a fine thread like the old pole sanders use to have.or get the pole thread adapter from allwall to convert it to a paint roller thread hope this helps I am sure caz has a corner sander as well .


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Lloydnz said:


> Hi kiwiman I got It from allwall in the us online. I use it on a pole all the time. I would not be with out it. You need a pole with a fine thread like the old pole sanders use to have.or get the pole thread adapter from allwall to convert it to a paint roller thread hope this helps I am sure caz has a corner sander as well .


Thanks Lloydy :thumbsup: I'll check it out, the shipping costs from All-Wall to here have skyrocketed lately so I'll see if it's worth it first.

EDIT: I just ordered one from All-Wall and the shipping wasn't too bad because of the smaller size package.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Lloydnz said:


> Hi kiwiman I got It from allwall in the us online. I use it on a pole all the time. I would not be with out it. You need a pole with a fine thread like the old pole sanders use to have.or get the pole thread adapter from allwall to convert it to a paint roller thread hope this helps I am sure caz has a corner sander as well .


I dont have one Lloydnz, I remember the capt saying they were good ages ago, I was going to get one but figured the cost of the sanding blocks for it would cost to much as you cant get them local, I did get a flex edge sander which i find good, A few swipes either side then sponge check it, They dont damage corners, Interesting to hear that the speares is good, Thanks for that.


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

Caz tried to pm you but your box is full


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

cazna said:


> I dont have one Lloydnz, I remember the capt saying they were good ages ago, I was going to get one but figured the cost of the sanding blocks for it would cost to much as you caat get them local, I did get a flex edge sander which i find good, A few swipes either side then sponge check it, They dont damage corners, Interesting to hear that the speares is good, Thanks for that.


Sorry caz my mistake.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Lloydnz said:


> Caz tried to pm you but your box is full


 
Oops, Just had a clean out Lloyd.


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Vanman posted these pics in the new tool thread, thought it was worthy of a thread of it's own. I know some may think this tool is point less, but that's exactly what this tool can do, leave a perfect point in the angle.
> 
> I'm always on the look out for a tool like this or something like it. You don't really try sanding your internal angles out with it (at least I don't) you cut/sand a point with it. We use a can-am head, which can leave a rounded point. Even with the good mechanical heads, spit lines can be left behind in your angles. When it comes to light check out , you will find no need to sponge out your angles.
> 
> ...


Im glad you brought this up i've been debating buying one from all wall. i like that you can put it on a pole sander.


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Here you go 2buck 
Thats how i do it , real easy to change sanding sponge , stay in place ! I really like it!


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Looks good machinemud. :thumbup: Where do you find them?


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

Its from advance ( you can buy it at walltools) and the angle sponge is a richards ( same as 2 buck)


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Where do you get the richards angle sponges? I looked at wall tools and allwall, no go. The ones on richards website are different.


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## machinemud (Jul 21, 2010)

I buy them at a local drywall store here , P-A , do you whant me to send you some ?


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

Home depot sells them


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

machinemud said:


> Here you go 2buck
> Thats how i do it , real easy to change sanding sponge , stay in place ! I really like it!


That's awesome:thumbup:

I may half to order one, except this place keeps costing me money

The richards sander you have in your pic are the ones I don't like. Your have a perfect picture as to why I don't like it, there's no point on it.

We use it for cutting a point, not to sand the angle. The other Richards angle sponge that has the handle on it, has a excellent point on it.

I go around with the angle sponge quick, when sanding, then go forward with normal sanding.

2bjr thought it was stupid when I 1st started doing it, but now he's sold on it. I find angles are where you find the most errors. If you want to rip apart another tapers work, aim for their angles 1st, then where anything intersects.

Nearly all of the sponge work has been eliminated on check out on angles now, except on 3 ways, when using a angle sponge with a good POINT on it:yes:

So try that big fat Richards sponge in my pics machine, then you will see what I mean, I got it from (B)Lowes


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> That's awesome:thumbup:
> 
> I may half to order one, except this place keeps costing me money
> 
> ...


I'm going to be totally honest 80% of my checking and sanding during checkout is in the angles i could care less about flats and butts i just scan them for scratches.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i just got one of the advance sanding heads with the corkscrew thingys. i got it for 27bucks . now i just have to find a good angle sponge. i can't wait to try it. i REALLY hate sanding angles with a little sponge.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

DLSdrywall said:


> I'm going to be totally honest 80% of my checking and sanding during checkout is in the angles i could care less about flats and butts i just scan them for scratches.


are you a flusher man DSL or do you use angle heads? i use flushers and i find they take a lot of sanding. i'm under the impression that angle heads require less sanding but i have never seen them used. is there anyone out there who has used both that can confirm this?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thats true, Angleheads do run tighter and only need minimal sanding but they can be slower and scratch up and paper tear more than a flusher at first, But then you figure it out if you stick at it but they cost more, Then its an anglebox or mudrunner as well.

Are you still moving to windy wellington carpy??


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

my wife wanted to stay here after our daghter was born(10 months ago) and her mind kind of changes a lot. lately she all of a sudden was interested again when we were skyping with my sister and she saw how beautiful and green it is in the middle of winter. the t-shirt weather on some winter days is pretty appealing too. 

as for me when she decided she wanted to stay for a while i figured whatever i don't want to try and convince her of anything. never works anyway. also, i went out on my own five months ago and work has been great. i can't handle the thought of uprooting myself and having to be an employee right now. i just want o keep the momentum of my business going. i'm going to take on my first apprentice soon because my workload is too much to handle.

i do still want my family to grow up in new zealand but we both are just not there for it right now.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

the thing that bugs me the most about the flushers is the hard edge they sometimes leave. it's pretty easy to solve i just run my 4" knife over the edge to feather it and it just leaves a lift off to sand. i'm still waiting for 2buck to tell his secret of how he tweaks the flusher to leave a more consistent edge.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> my wife wanted to stay here after our daghter was born(10 months ago) and her mind kind of changes a lot. lately she all of a sudden was interested again when we were skyping with my sister and she saw how beautiful and green it is in the middle of winter. the t-shirt weather on some winter days is pretty appealing too.
> 
> as for me when she decided she wanted to stay for a while i figured whatever i don't want to try and convince her of anything. never works anyway. also, i went out on my own five months ago and work has been great. i can't handle the thought of uprooting myself and having to be an employee right now. i just want o keep the momentum of my business going. i'm going to take on my first apprentice soon because my workload is too much to handle.
> 
> i do still want my family to grow up in new zealand but we both are just not there for it right now.


Fair enough, Its exciting starting out on your own, Its all cool being your own boss, But your not really, Now you have many many bosses to answer too, I did the same, Started out, got plenty of work, Hired someone, then fought tooth and nail trying to pay the wages and holiday pay etc etc, 4 years i struggled like hell, Then we busted up, I worked on my own and actually started to have some money for myself again, Employing didnt work for me, Knowing i had all those payments to make drove me mad, I see other painters/plasterers working in groups of 2,3,or 4 and wonder how the hell is the boss doing it.

Hey it may work for you, Its not all bad thats just my story, But i was only 22, Young dumb and full of cum, Dont know if i will employ again, If you can get someone part time on call thats handy, I seem to be lining up a lot of work in the coming year, I have a helper i may use.


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

carpentaper said:


> are you a flusher man DSL or do you use angle heads? i use flushers and i find they take a lot of sanding. i'm under the impression that angle heads require less sanding but i have never seen them used. is there anyone out there who has used both that can confirm this?


I uae flushers and to be honest i file them so they turn out good i wish i could usew a angle head flush out chit that turn out perfevt!!


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

it's a young kid. still lives at home. says he won't mind a short week here or there. i also know a lot of guys that could keep someone busy for me if i needed it. i'm trying to get more carpentry jobs lined up and do a little more of the GC thing. i'm wanting to actually apprentice people not just have a helper.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

DLSdrywall said:


> I uae flushers and to be honest i file them so they turn out good i wish i could usew a angle head flush out chit that turn out perfevt!!


dude are you trashed or did all your fingers turn to sausages?:drink::laughing:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> the thing that bugs me the most about the flushers is the hard edge they sometimes leave. it's pretty easy to solve i just run my 4" knife over the edge to feather it and it just leaves a lift off to sand. i'm still waiting for 2buck to tell his secret of how he tweaks the flusher to leave a more consistent edge.


Best to use a 3.5 tin flusher to finish with, don't use a 3" or anything above a 3.5". Except we do use a 2.5 DM to lay tape, I would recommend a 2 or 2.5 to lay tape with the tin heads, but your points will always look rounded.

In my pic, the red arrow is indicating which way to move the runner so it coats closer. The BTE you can adjust, while the can-am are fixed (from what my supply house sells). Move it the opposite way, they add more mud. You want it to coat as tight as you can. The green area is where you can file them with any steal file, while focusing more attension to where the 2 x marks are. This pic is a BTE head, mines a can-am, either one, the point is too rounded...

Next important thing, is do not direct flush with a cp tube, it lays way too much mud on, and I can't explain why, it just does. use a corner applicator on cp tube, then tin flusher on a wiping pole. I have heard of guys using a angle box, and that it still aplies tight, but have not witnessed it myself so......

Then lastly, your all important mud mix, make bazooka flat mix, or fairly runny mix. were about 6 to 8 cups depending on your mud. Your angles should look like you used a laser to run your angle heads, meaning no hollows or curvy lines. Plus runny mud sands more easy than thick mud too


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i have a 2.5 BTE that i use after i roll with my blueline roller. i haven't had a problem with any rounded corners since i started using that roller. i also have a 3" and 3.5" canam flusher. so no moving the skids for me. they work and i'll take them any day over finishing by hand but i find the results inconsistent. some of it is the infrequency that i use them so i haven't really mastered them yet but i also just feel like i have to push so hard where as all the vieos of guys using angle heads look so easy like it just glides.

i thought you had some secret like you bent them or tweeked them some way.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i have a 2.5 BTE that i use after i roll with my blueline roller. i haven't had a problem with any rounded corners since i started using that roller. i also have a 3" and 3.5" canam flusher. so no moving the skids for me. they work and i'll take them any day over finishing by hand but i find the results inconsistent. some of it is the infrequency that i use them so i haven't really mastered them yet but i also just feel like i have to push so hard where as all the vieos of guys using angle heads look so easy like it just glides.
> 
> i thought you had some secret like you bent them or tweeked them some way.


Those were great secrets:whistling2:

Actually 2 other minor things are to bend them by hand a bit as they age, forcing the wings out a bit, Another is a red green type fix, lifting the spring or the tension wire that exerts pressure to the wings, put some type of stationary shim under them to raise them up. But it sounds more like your mud mix, the runnier the mud, the more they glide . When mixing your mud, you should see a large bubble of air come up. Like blowing up a large piece of bubble gum, for laying your tape, and flushing. 

So just keep adding water, till it feels like you wipers/flushers glide, then all will be good:thumbup:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i do tend to run my mud thicker than is easy for coating angles. i'll try making it taping thin next time.:thumbsup:


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