# Nail spotters versus spotting nails



## Mudshark

Want to hear from some of you on the nail spotters as I have never had the pleasure of using one. Find it hard to beat the simple way of spotting nails using knife and pan. Which is faster? :hammer:


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## TonyM

No comparison mate. Get a nail spotter and an extendable handle.


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## Tim0282

Nail spotter is many times faster. Extendable handle will reach eighteen foot ceiling from floor. That's extreme, but you can easily do eight, nine and ten foot ceilings from the floor. And if you really want to, just screw on another handle and reach about whatever you want. I like Blue Line because it has the guide wheels on it and two foot and four foot screw on handles. Any brand is worth the money. Make your mud a little stiffer than regular box mud and they are a little less messy.


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## Whitey97

I'm up for opinions here, but I find that I have to just about have my mud full strength for it to work right


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## Tim0282

Whitey97 said:


> I'm up for opinions here, but I find that I have to just about have my mud full strength for it to work right


I'm not sure what you mean by full strength.


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## Whitey97

straight out of the box, no water added... what the hell do you call it?


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## Bevelation

I have the Blue Line spotters. They do cut a lot of time down, and I changed my system a bit to make things more efficient. I now push in all the duds on the wall and hit all screws with the 2" spotter before any tape goes down. I have also pre-filled with the 2" and it works fine. I run through the flats on both coats so that there won't be any need to touch up screws that the box doesn't usually fill. The day after all the tapes are on, I second coat the screws with the 3" before I box the first fill coat. Apart from fixing ceiling duds and small touch up, I don't touch another screw after that until finish sand.

I also use next-to out-of-the-box mud for first coat. Gotta reef on it sometimes to fill the top screws right.

I'll go as far as saying this: I would rather tape by hand and use the spotters than use a bazooka and hand coat screws. To me they're just that good of an investment.

The only thing I find is it's really easy to leave big lift-off ridges at times. Doesn't make sanding fun.


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## Whitey97

That's the part I don't like about mine, is when I lift off.

you aren't worried about hitting screws that weren't put in all the way? I feel that if I don't 1st coat the nails by hand, I'll f up my blade. If it's on a ceiling, then I have to get a ladder and at that point it's a total waste of time.


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## Tim0282

Stiffen the mud a touch and tighten that screw and the lift off will be less. Nail spotters work great on flat angles. Two inch, then the three inch. Great tool for pre fill like you say.


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## Whitey97

What screw? My box is a 2" It's blue, and I think it's made by Priemer, if that sounds right.


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## Tim0282

There is a screw at the end of the handle. Kind of goes on a plate. It just spreads the two pieces on that plate. It tightens the box to the handle. Man I am not making sense here. Sorry. Trust me though, there is a screw on the box that will help the lift off. Kind of on the lid. And replacing the bushings right in that same area when they get worn really helps, too. They are white plastic. All Wall carries them. Pretty inexpensive. I have the same kind as you. The Blue Line used to be called Premier. I sure like theirs better than Tape Tech. Have both.


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## Whitey97

hell yeah, I'm going to go out in the shop and check it out now! Thanks!


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## Tim0282

When I go to Northern Minnesota to fish in May, I'll stop by and check your spotter out.


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## Whitey97

I'm south of the Twin Cities though..... Where do you go? I have a cabin "up nort"


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## Tim0282

In the Grand Rapids area. Opening weekend every year for umpteen years.


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## Bevelation

Whitey97 said:


> What screw? My box is a 2" It's blue, and I think it's made by Priemer, if that sounds right.


 Check for a set screw / wingnut type thing on the box itself. That's where mine is located. It's used to adjust the pivot stiffness. And I will try that suggestion as well, thank you!



Whitey97 said:


> you aren't worried about hitting screws that weren't put in all the way?


Those blades are tougher than you think. I try to sink or pull all dud screws as I can, but it always happens that you miss. But these spotters are more forgiving than what one fears running over a bad screw. Same with angle heads.


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## Tim0282

Agree. I think because the nail spotter doesn't hold much mud or weight, it floats over the unset screw. Wait, what unset screw? The hangers NEVER leave a screw out. That's what they want me to think. I did break a blade one time. They seem to last almost forever.


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## Whitey97

well, I'm thinking when I use it, I'll stay on my stilts, only because if I'm not there to monitor the rocking, screws won't be set all the way, and then I'll have a wire edge. If I weren't on the stilts, as I was saying, I think it would end up being a waste of time.


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## josh6106

not to hijack a thread but since your talking about nailspotters, i have a blue line aswell and i find it leaves too much mud on, is there a way to adjust the blade? i only have a 2" was thinking of getting a 3" cause when i put two coats on with the two inch it is hard to sand obviously.
thanks


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## Tim0282

Just have to use the two then the three. Stiffer mud and less pressure will leave less mud and holding the handle at the right angle to the wall. Keep the handle out in front of the box. Don't run it like your seven, ten or twelve, because there is no break on the handle. I still like to run screws from the floor and go back the next time I am on stilts to fix the "stuff". You can run about two thousand feet of ceiling in fifteen or twenty minutes. I can run a fast knife, but not that fast.


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## tapingfool

I use a 2 then a 3, to help with speed after using it for a while, i have a small can of wd-40 and give it a quick shot every so often, and then you can fly with it..the tape-tech and premier works best for me..
watch jon run them in a house:


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## Apple24

Quick ? When running over screws do you have to swat them both directions, (or twice) to get the mud to stick. Ya know like when ya spot by hand you wipe on one way and pull off another.BTW I like to run first coat slipperry on screws so it shrinks up a bit, do they push out a bit if your running those things w/ stiff mud?


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## Tim0282

No they don't push out. I know what you are talking about and that is a good question. Never had the trouble. They just lay on flat sometimes leave a pin hole that is filled the second coat. If you use the same size spotter, it will leave a good edge on each side. Not easy to sand. But when you change sizes, two inch then three inch, you won't have that problem.


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## Apple24

Tim sounds like you work right in my neck of the woods. Are ya staying busy? Just remodels for me lately and patchwork for people who want to put their home upo for sale and get out of michigan.Only new homes I have done are right around or over a Million.Not like I could or want to compete w/ Target if you know what I mean.


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## Tim0282

Hey Apple24, I am in SE Iowa. But I sure like to come to your neck of the woods to fish... We have been very busy. Some 4,000 plus foot houses. (floor space) and some 1500. So just a little of everything.
Now back to the fishing... I'm trying to get my work situated so I can go to DePere Wisconsin to fish for walleye in a couple weeks on the Fox River. They come out of Lake Michigan to spawn. Most people from Michigan call them the glow in the dark walleye because of the paper mills polluting the river.


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## Apple24

Yeah theres a mill in rockford contaminating the river. We actully used to go on a rope swing near the mill.Boy where we niave, their were signs all over the place.


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## alltex

try putting some dish soap in the mud or use some taping mud in there to make it slick


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## alltex

Whitey97 said:


> I'm up for opinions here, but I find that I have to just about have my mud full strength for it to work right


try adding dish soap to make your mud slicker .i run the mud about like angle glaser mud


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## tapingfool

When you make the right mix, just one pass down is all you need, alot faster than by hand, and less tiresome..


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## chasleem

For speed I made a 4 ounce ball pin hammer into a screwdriver too. I drilled a hole in the end of the hammer and used liquid nails to glue a screw bit in. I've used it for 4 years and it still works great. Also I made a broken wooden broom handle into the same thing. I use the rounded side to dimple in. So i can reach 12 ft ceilings with it. In track work on a 6000 ft house (drywall ft.) I can use my blueline 2" and get a first coat on in about and hour. 2nd coat about 30 min. Sand between 2nd and third coat 45 min. I love it


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## tapingfool

Yes one swipe is all you need..Once you get the mix right you can fly..I just bought and tried the drywall master 5.5 inch box, and it polishes nails great!! so I use a 2" then3" and now a 5.5 "..look here:

http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/Drywall_Master_5__Specialty_Box_fb.html


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## 1wallboardsman

Bevelation said:


> I have the Blue Line spotters. They do cut a lot of time down, and I changed my system a bit to make things more efficient. I now push in all the duds on the wall and hit all screws with the 2" spotter before any tape goes down. I have also pre-filled with the 2" and it works fine. I run through the flats on both coats so that there won't be any need to touch up screws that the box doesn't usually fill. The day after all the tapes are on, I second coat the screws with the 3" before I box the first fill coat. Apart from fixing ceiling duds and small touch up, I don't touch another screw after that until finish sand.
> 
> I also use next-to out-of-the-box mud for first coat. Gotta reef on it sometimes to fill the top screws right.
> 
> I'll go as far as saying this: I would rather tape by hand and use the spotters than use a bazooka and hand coat screws. To me they're just that good of an investment.
> 
> The only thing I find is it's really easy to leave big lift-off ridges at times. Doesn't make sanding fun.


The Ames design has a brake, blueline doesn't. Durabond EZ-sand works very clean in nailspotters. Set your blades correctly and stay square with the tool, and kiss the edges goodbye.

jdl


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## tapingfool

jon,
what number do you use in the spotter? 45 or 90? i cant imagine using the 20 for nails it would dry in the spotter..


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## tapingfool

and what do you mean has a brake?


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## Bevelation

1wallboardsman said:


> The Ames design has a brake, blueline doesn't. Durabond EZ-sand works very clean in nailspotters. Set your blades correctly and stay square with the tool, and kiss the edges goodbye.
> 
> jdl


Wow, I didn't know that the Ames had a brake. I can adjust tension on the pivot, though. I guess that will have to do unless I know I have guaranteed work ahead of me.

Sadly I can't use setting compound on sites here.

Thanks for the advice!


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## RCinPA

I sold my set of spotters do to the problem of the hangers leaving many screws out. I told the contractor that if he would let the hanger spot the screws he would get an idea of what the finisher is dealing with . I'm not talking of an occasional screw out. We counted over 200 in one house. That gets old real quick.


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## 1wallboardsman

tapingfool said:


> jon,
> what number do you use in the spotter? 45 or 90? i cant imagine using the 20 for nails it would dry in the spotter..


I usually bed coat everything with 210, plenty of working time, and no waste. The Ames design of a nailspotter handle, which is copied by all of the "me too" manufacturers, has a bend in it. It will engage the front plate of the spotter on the downstroke and break off the mud flow by breaking pressure off of the pressure plate of the spotter.

On ceilings, you would need to have the spotter out in front for this to engage, and it engages well when the spotter is less then full.

jdl


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## Bevelation

^I don't think anything over 90 is available here....then again I never asked.

The more you talk about those spotters, the more I grow to hate mine. haha


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## JustMe

In comparing nail spotters, I came across these comments on Columbia's site: "Columbia's Nail Spotter has a skid plate to keep you on a straight track and protect against blade breakage." They follow it up with "Offers more control than wheeled models.".

http://www.columbiatools.com/media/php/nail-spotter.php?loc=Taping%20Tools

Anyone with any thoughts about their claims?


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## 19Riggs88

Nail spotters are an awesome tool! I use a 2" on the first two coats and for paint smooth a 3" for the third coat.

When sheets are laying down I like to walk and follow along the wall forward just doing the top sheets and then switch and step backward just doing the bottoms.

By breaking it up to just tops or bottoms I can coat them just as fast as I can walk because the spotter head doesn't swivel as much. This makes it far easier and faster to place the spotter head on the wall for the next row and pull down in seemingly one motion. 

From years of experience with big apartment buildings I took it a step farther after I mastered the speed and added stealth to being whisper quiet as I flew along the walls. When I was in my zone you can't hardly hear the spotter being put on the wall and just hear a "whhee, whhee, whhee, whhee"...no kidding!

Every tool I had way too much experience with to fine tune the systems.

Oh, like every tool for taping the mud consistancy is key to the tool working great. Truely makes a big difference how each tool works if the mud is just a little too thick or too thin.


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## Steve

JustMe said:


> In comparing nail spotters, I came across these comments on Columbia's site: "Columbia's Nail Spotter has a skid plate to keep you on a straight track and protect against blade breakage." They follow it up with "Offers more control than wheeled models.".
> 
> http://www.columbiatools.com/media/php/nail-spotter.php?loc=Taping%20Tools
> 
> Anyone with any thoughts about their claims?


If it were true, I don't think they would have changed them to a wheeled design. Columbia Spotter


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## JustMe

19Riggs88 said:


> Nail spotters are an awesome tool! I use a 2" on the first two coats and for paint smooth a 3" for the third coat.


I was wondering how people were putting 3 coats on screws with just 2 different sized spotters. I saw earlier in this thread where tapingfool had gone to using a Drywall Master 5.5" specialty box for coat #3.



19Riggs88 said:


> Oh, like every tool for taping the mud consistancy is key to the tool working great. Truely makes a big difference how each tool works if the mud is just a little too thick or too thin.


There's an important topic all to itself. I'll have to see what's already posted on this site about it. Anyone know of any good threads &/or posts on it?



Steve said:


> If it were true, I don't think they would have changed them to a wheeled design. Columbia Spotter


Thanks, Steve. That's interesting. I went back to Columbia's website and couldn't find those newer design nailspotters listed. Maybe they haven't upgraded their site yet?

I wonder if the new design did turn into an actual improvement, or if they improved it worse, as jon said in his youtube video comments that outfits like Goldblatt and Northstar have done with their nailspotters - the video link that was posted previously in this thread by tapingfool.

Speaking of that video: in the comments made below it on youtube's site, jon told an inquirer that the nailspotter he was using was 'a "Best" original design nailspotter'. Is that meaning it's a TapeTech? It's what initially came to mind, based on what jon said after that in his comment. But I'm thinking it may not be TapeTech, based on a comment made by tapingfool on another thread:



tapingfool said:


> Tape tech and drywall master are very good, can-am and the "best" set that jon sells are excellent as well.


"Best" = Custom made by jon?

Anyone know what the handles being used in that video are? I find what's being said in the video somewhat hard to make out at times. Could also be me - damaged my hearing some in past years while often running open trenchers without proper hearing safety equipment - &/or could also be my speakers.


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## 1wallboardsman

Steve said:


> If it were true, I don't think they would have changed them to a wheeled design. Columbia Spotter


Apparently, Columbia doesn't have the knowledge required to make the decision on which is better. After copying Ames design for 27 years, they decide to copy the Premier/Blueline design for awhile.

Considering that the Nailspotter was the first automatic taping tool to successfully enter the market in 1933.. one might suspect that its design was pretty good to have lasted all the way into 2009.

It is the same story with most of the Ames designs, they were right in the first place, for 40 years, no one else could make an automatic taping tool worth a damn, without copying the patented designs. Thank God that patents aren't forever.

P.S. Wheels on nailspotters are for wimps.:blink:

jdl


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## 19Riggs88

Just a thought on the new wheel design styles out there. 
I have not tried the new wheeled model so this is a guess.

In my current opinion the swivel skid plate models for spotters have way too many advantages that would out way the wheel types.

one is coating screws or nails around door and window frames
another is less to malfunction.

I personnaly don't believe the Tape Tech type spotters could be improved upon.


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## 19Riggs88

JustMe said:


> I was wondering how people were putting 3 coats on screws with just 2 different sized spotters. I saw earlier in this thread where tapingfool had gone to using a Drywall Master 5.5" specialty box for coat #3.


The 5.5" certainly does sound nice for 3rd coat.

I personnaly will never use a 3" for the first two coats and only on third.

Even this little difference in head size makes the spotter more top heavy and clumbsy to truely be efficient and fly along the walls.

For first coat the opening is too big and the mud doesn't compress into the screwhole very easy. (ever see how a 10" box has a hard time filling screws just outside the seams recess?) 

For 3rd coat I like the 3" but I will have to look into comaparison with a 5.5" because it may nicely leave a thin film over the screws to float mud over the sharp ridge around the screw hole. Kind of like how you want to lightly float mud over the shoulders of the seams recess.


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## JustMe

1wallboardsman said:


> P.S. Wheels on nailspotters are for wimps.:blink:
> 
> jdl


 
By "wimps", are you saying wheels on nailspotters are no good?

I asked in a previous post on this thread what your "best" was in your youtube nailspotter video. Care to enlighten, or do I have to do some more deductive reasoning on my own to try and figure it out, and get it wrong?


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## JustMe

19Riggs88 said:


> I personnaly will never use a 3" for the first two coats and only on third.
> 
> Even this little difference in head size makes the spotter more top heavy and clumbsy to truely be efficient and fly along the walls.
> 
> For first coat the opening is too big and the mud doesn't compress into the screwhole very easy. (ever see how a 10" box has a hard time filling screws just outside the seams recess?)


I haven't used a nailspotter yet, but from what I can visualize based on what you said, sounds like good advice.



19Riggs88 said:


> For 3rd coat I like the 3" but I will have to look into comaparison with a 5.5" because it may nicely leave a thin film over the screws to float mud over the sharp ridge around the screw hole. Kind of like how you want to lightly float mud over the shoulders of the seams recess.


I'd be interested, too. Maybe tapingfool would be willing to give some feedback on this.


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## 1wallboardsman

JustMe said:


> By "wimps", are you saying wheels on nailspotters are no good?
> 
> I asked in a previous post on this thread what your "best" was in your youtube nailspotter video. Care to enlighten, or do I have to do some more deductive reasoning on my own to try and figure it out, and get it wrong?


Premier put wheels on nailspotters because some finishers complained that the tool was difficult to pull along the surface of the board. Premier addressed the complaint in an effort to market the wheeled design.

There was little consideration for the removal of functionality, as is normal with most re-designs. The original skid-plate design allows one to maximize skill with the tool, it can be made easier to pull without sacrificing for wheels.

In the video, I am using an Ames design manufactured by Precision. They also make a screw-on/screw-off link for me that enables the nailspotter to be hand-held or attached to extension poles from 2'-4' to 8' - 16'.

All other manufacturers have a fetish for making their handles proprietary so that they can charge you $90 for $30 worth of handle.

Goldblatt put their ignorance on display by going back to an aluminum handle that is 4 feet long.


jdl


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## JustMe

1wallboardsman said:


> Premier put wheels on nailspotters because some finishers complained that the tool was difficult to pull along the surface of the board. Premier addressed the complaint in an effort to market the wheeled design.
> 
> There was little consideration for the removal of functionality, as is normal with most re-designs. The original skid-plate design allows one to maximize skill with the tool, it can be made easier to pull without sacrificing for wheels.
> 
> In the video, I am using an Ames design manufactured by Precision. They also make a screw-on/screw-off link for me that enables the nailspotter to be hand-held or attached to extension poles from 2'-4' to 8' - 16'.
> 
> All other manufacturers have a fetish for making their handles proprietary so that they can charge you $90 for $30 worth of handle.
> 
> Goldblatt put their ignorance on display by going back to an aluminum handle that is 4 feet long.
> 
> 
> jdl


Thanks for that, jon.

I'm trying to figure out what you're about when it comes to drywall tools. I'm assuming you sell them, from what tapingfool said previously in this thread; you saying in your post "They also make a screw-on/screw-off link for me"; and your videos having addresses on them to a couple of sites - newtapingtools.com and atlanta.newtapingtools.com. But going there gets me into a general area with different category links. Clicking on some of what seems like the most appropriate links doesn't really get me anywhere specific to the tools and such that are in your videos. Am I missing something? Anything(s) to know to navigate to where you're trying to direct a person? Any other links you might be able to provide here to get there?

I did a Google check for Precision nailspotters, and couldn't seem to turn up anything, including from online drywall finishing suppliers. Where might they be found?

The handles that you were using to run the nailspotters in the video - what brand name(s) are they, and could you express their benefits over other handles a bit here? As I said in a previous post, I had a bit of a time trying to make out much of what you were saying in the video - which could also be my hearing &/or speakers.



1wallboardsman said:


> All other manufacturers have a fetish for making their handles proprietary so that they can charge you $90 for $30 worth of handle.
> 
> Goldblatt put their ignorance on display by going back to an aluminum handle that is 4 feet long.


I can understand where they're coming from. They're following the 'intellectual property as the key to wealth' mindset that's been popular for some years now.

But there's another kind of intellectual property - the position a company and its products holds between the ears of the buyer. A patent on an item that undermines that position is worth less than nothing to me - unless maybe the patent can somehow help to effectively tie up an industry.


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## 1wallboardsman

JustMe said:


> Thanks for that, jon.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out what you're about when it comes to drywall tools. I'm assuming you sell them, from what tapingfool said previously in this thread; you saying in your post "They also make a screw-on/screw-off link for me"; and your videos having addresses on them to a couple of sites - newtapingtools.com and atlanta.newtapingtools.com. But going there gets me into a general area with different category links. Clicking on some of what seems like the most appropriate links doesn't really get me anywhere specific to the tools and such that are in your videos. Am I missing something? Anything(s) to know to navigate to where you're trying to direct a person? Any other links you might be able to provide here to get there?
> 
> I did a Google check for Precision nailspotters, and couldn't seem to turn up anything, including from online drywall finishing suppliers. Where might they be found?
> 
> The handles that you were using to run the nailspotters in the video - what brand name(s) are they, and could you express their benefits over other handles a bit here? As I said in a previous post, I had a bit of a time trying to make out much of what you were saying in the video - which could also be my hearing &/or speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> I can understand where they're coming from. They're following the 'intellectual property as the key to wealth' mindset that's been popular for some years now.
> 
> But there's another kind of intellectual property - the position a company and its products holds between the ears of the buyer. A patent on an item that undermines that position is worth less than nothing to me - unless maybe the patent can somehow help to effectively tie up an industry.


Well, I was away working and the wife lost the domain name, so all of the YouTube videos have to be re-edited.

The new address - http://NewTapingToolsStore.com

The handle I'm using in that video is the Rankee, who also make for TapeTech, and the X handles that the grocery clerks over at allwall sell.

They are double telescoping, so they can get limber at 8' long. Also, Rankee uses plastic for the connection of handle to nailspotter link. Their link will not accommadate both of the pieces that make up what I call the flex-link of a 3" nailspotter. 2" inch has 1, 3" has 2. Reducing the 3" to 1 to get it one this handle makes a fairly flimsy connection.

Welcome to handle hell.

I prefer a screw-on/screw-off handle that will work walls/ceilings at 2' - 4' and can be quickly changed to a handle as long as 8' - 16'. I have to make them myself.

jdl


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## JustMe

1wallboardsman said:


> Well, I was away working and the wife lost the domain name, so all of the YouTube videos have to be re-edited.
> 
> The new address - http://NewTapingToolsStore.com
> 
> The handle I'm using in that video is the Rankee, who also make for TapeTech, and the X handles that the grocery clerks over at allwall sell.
> 
> They are double telescoping, so they can get limber at 8' long. Also, Rankee uses plastic for the connection of handle to nailspotter link. Their link will not accommadate both of the pieces that make up what I call the flex-link of a 3" nailspotter. 2" inch has 1, 3" has 2. Reducing the 3" to 1 to get it one this handle makes a fairly flimsy connection.
> 
> Welcome to handle hell.
> 
> I prefer a screw-on/screw-off handle that will work walls/ceilings at 2' - 4' and can be quickly changed to a handle as long as 8' - 16'. I have to make them myself.
> 
> jdl


A thought on the new address: Till you get around to editting your videos, maybe posting your new address in the comments section below them might help direct more people who are watching.

I appreciate the information. I also will often make something that will work for me, if I get too frustrated with what's out there and it's important enough to go through the effort.


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## Steve

It took longer for me to spot screws by hand today than it took to run flats and angles with my tools. Spotting screws has got to be the least gratifying part of the job. I think I'll break down and get a nail spotter. I suppose a 2" TapeTech would be a good start.


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## JustMe

Steve said:


> It took longer for me to spot screws by hand today than it took to run flats and angles with my tools. Spotting screws has got to be the least gratifying part of the job. I think I'll break down and get a nail spotter. I suppose a 2" TapeTech would be a good start.


How were you thinking would be best to spot screws with just the one size, Steve? Eg. Hand spot with the 1st coat, to deal with any screws and paper sticking out; 2nd coat with spotter and then light sand them along with rough sanding flats 1st time; then 3rd coat with spotter again?


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## 19Riggs88

JustMe said:


> How were you thinking would be best to spot screws with just the one size, Steve? Eg. Hand spot with the 1st coat, to deal with any screws and paper sticking out; 2nd coat with spotter and then light sand them along with rough sanding flats 1st time; then 3rd coat with spotter again?


Many people get caught up in this Idea that it is better to do first coat by hand. I completely disagree. Having the nailspotter in your hand is equal to having a pan of mud and knife in your hand. Plus a nail spotter is easier than shuffling around a pan and knife when pulling or adding screws, etc.

When I spot screws first coat with a 2" spotter I wear a custom little belt I made just for it.

I just bought a tool belt and equiped it with a screwdriver pouch, hammer ring, and utility knife pouch. I just keep my 6" knife in my back pocket just in case.

I simply walk along the wall coating screws and if i come accross a miss I simply tap it in with the back of my knife.
If I come across a ticker my screwdrivers right there like a sixshooter. 
If I come across a nail sticking out my hammers at the ready.
If I come across a crack or bad plug I missed while taping my utility knife is at the handy.

Sometimes I will do a walk through on a couple walls or a room and tap in paper ahead of time with a ballpin hammer if there are a lot of misses.


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## Steve

JustMe said:


> How were you thinking would be best to spot screws with just the one size, Steve? Eg. Hand spot with the 1st coat, to deal with any screws and paper sticking out; 2nd coat with spotter and then light sand them along with rough sanding flats 1st time; then 3rd coat with spotter again?


Actually, I don't have a solid plan yet. I will have to get used to using the 2"spotter before I commit to a 3". I'm already sold on that 5.5"box, I think that is perfect for third coat.


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## JustMe

19Riggs88 said:


> Sometimes I will do a walk through on a couple walls or a room and tap in paper ahead of time with a ballpin hammer if there are a lot of misses.


Never tried a ball pean for misses yet. I don't know what condition some of the drywall would be like after - sometimes ~6 misses in one small area. Board sometimes harder than in the past (so they say), steel framing that's thinner than in the past (so they say), new boarders, helps cause it.

I was wondering about how a step drill bit might work: http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=479181

Not drilling all the way through with it, but just enough to get rid of the paper and such around a hole.



Steve said:


> Actually, I don't have a solid plan yet. I will have to get used to using the 2"spotter before I commit to a 3". I'm already sold on that 5.5"box, I think that is perfect for third coat.


I was wondering how - if at all - a 7" box might be modified to temporarily give a narrower coat, and mimic somewhat what the 5.5" delivers.


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## Steve

JustMe said:


> I was wondering how - if at all - a 7" box might be modified to temporarily give a narrower coat, and mimic somewhat what the 5.5" delivers.


I never tried to modify a box, but I think I recall seeing an adjustable box somewhere.


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## silverstilts

To me the perfect nail spotter and works the best is what i call mark :thumbup: he does have another full time job but likes the extra income so i just call him to run over , its a no hassle thing . usually done complete all three coats after the rock is installed and before we tape its done.... hate spotting screws did it enough and so times during the first couple of years i had nightmares of doing them.... let the grunt do them , but if i do have to do them i use a 3" blue line and i agree no matter what make of spotter you use its like all tools you have to just get the feel for them and the thickness of the mud ... they are fast no doubt about it ,,, kinda like comparing a bazooka to a banjo ...how many times have we heard i can tape just as fast with a banjo , ya right....


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## JustMe

Steve said:


> I never tried to modify a box, but I think I recall seeing an adjustable box somewhere.


I was thinking about asking that question previously. A box that can go 2", 3", 4", etc.? Maybe someone knows of it. Such things usually don't work as well as a specialized item. But in this case, who knows? Maybe well enough.



silverstilts said:


> kinda like comparing a bazooka to a banjo ...how many times have we heard i can tape just as fast with a banjo , ya right....


Anyone see someone hand tape as fast as someone who can operate a banjo decently?


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## silverstilts

JustMe said:


> I was thinking about asking that question previously. A box that can go 2", 3", 4", etc.? Maybe someone knows of it. Such things usually don't work as well as a specialized item. But in this case, who knows? Maybe well enough.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone see someone hand tape as fast as someone who can operate a banjo decently?


 never and impossible...maybe in dreams or la la land


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## JustMe

silverstilts said:


> never and impossible...maybe in dreams or la la land


What I thought. But it's fun watching them try.


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## 19Riggs88

JustMe said:


> Never tried a ball pean for misses yet. I don't know what condition some of the drywall would be like after - sometimes ~6 misses in one small area. Board sometimes harder than in the past (so they say), steel framing that's thinner than in the past (so they say), new boarders, helps cause it.http://


To be honest the times I have used the ball pean I did have a little trouble with the paper tearing at the perimeter of the indents...even when I genlty tap them....


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## tapingfool

There used to be a company that had changeable box sizes, it was a while ago, and I forgot what company, but they were simply snap on and off..you changed the top part only..where the mud flows from..

Also, as for the nails the newest way is with a 2in-3in-then finish with the new 5.5 box by drywall master:
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/Drywall_Master_5__Specialty_Box_fb.html

I recently did a small commercial job, there were 2 "laid off" union guys there. Well to make it short we had some big and small rooms, no to brag but I consistently out paced them..they were definitely jealous..they were old skool hand tapers, there you go.....good luck...


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## Steve

tapingfool said:


> There used to be a company that had changeable box sizes, it was a while ago, and I forgot what company, but they were simply snap on and off..you changed the top part only..where the mud flows from..
> 
> Also, as for the nails the newest way is with a 2in-3in-then finish with the new 5.5 box by drywall master:
> http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/Drywall_Master_5__Specialty_Box_fb.html
> 
> I recently did a small commercial job, there were 2 "laid off" union guys there. Well to make it short we had some big and small rooms, no to brag but I consistently out paced them..they were definitely jealous..they were old skool hand tapers, there you go.....good luck...


I just put an order in for that same set up. Spots are my only weak link at this point. I'm all geeked up to spot screws now! I'm going to be soooo fast! :scooter:


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## Steve

*Nail Spotters Rock!*

I tried out my new nail spotters today at work,WOW! I can't believe that I waited so long to get them. They are very easy to control and are so much faster. :thumbup:


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## zeth_c

I had bought a used tapetech 2" nail spotter and it was hell trying to use the thing. I tried using on three different jobs and gave up and sold the thing. But may be It was junk to begin with?


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## KiwiInNorway

jflynn said:


> MAKE SURE YOU GET A RANKEE POLE THEY LAST FOREVER. WWW.RANKEE.COM SAME DAY SHIPPING. LONG LASTING AND DURABLE


Easy there tiger, no one likes a spammer.:thumbdown:


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## Bazooka-Joe

had some extruding bevels on a big shack finished ceiling ran nail box on all i mean all top angles came out ticky boo


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## killerjune

i always put just two coat by hand on my job. no probleme . do you think i can make first by hand and second with the nail spoter. just two coat


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## Tim0282

I use a two inch on the first coat and a three inch on the second coat.


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## Sweendog87

killerjune said:


> i always put just two coat by hand on my job. no probleme . do you think i can make first by hand and second with the nail spoter. just two coat



Try not to use all purpose on the first coat use hot mud/base it doesn't shrink as much and then nail spott they come up sweet thats what we do hand first with hot then 3" spotter we only do hand first coat to make sure all screws are in and no paper ridges hit them all in and when u spot they will come up 
flat as 


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## embella plaster

Sweendog87 said:


> Try not to use all purpose on the first coat use hot mud/base it doesn't shrink as much and then nail spott they come up sweet thats what we do hand first with hot then 3" spotter we only do hand first coat to make sure all screws are in and no paper ridges hit them all in and when u spot they will come up
> flat as
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I like that sween i couldnt spot mine first coat going around checking them all and pushing the missing pin holes up for paper fuzz if rather while im up on those stilts fill while checking let me give you a tip when your doing your own jobs try how i do it i call it 2.5 coat.......you see 2 coats some times shows and 3 coats can buldge i do 2.5 so i hot mud first coat then skim with top very thin then after a couple of mins top like usual


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## Sweendog87

Will definatly give that a go do u skim and top with multi in spotter?


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## Sweendog87

Looking forward to getting some stilts what do u wear and how often do u use them I havnt got much money but really want some 


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## endo_alley

I have a 2" and 3" that sit in the shed. I have never seen anybody who could do a good job spotting nails with a spotter. They always leave a mud buildup. And a little hole in the mud on the fill coat. Spot some screws with a spotter, and then shine a halogen light down the wall to see the mess it made. Also, about one in four screws needs to be addressed by the finisher on the fill coat. Screws that miss studs, and slightly crooked or improperly set screws. You need to be able to get right up there with a screw driver and fix the bad screws. Can't do that with a nail spotter from the floor.


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## MrWillys

All the finishers here on the West coast use a nail spotter. Some use a 2", and then a 3" with a final wipe with a 6" knife by hand. In the textured shacks as a kid it was just 2 costs with a 2", and it was used over the edge of the tape on angles instead of an angle head.


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## moore

.....


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## moore

Sweendog87 said:


> Try not to use all purpose on the first coat use hot mud/base it doesn't shrink as much and then nail spott they come up sweet thats what we do hand first with hot then 3" spotter we only do hand first coat to make sure all screws are in and no paper ridges hit them all in and when u spot they will come up
> flat as
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm dead set against using hot mud on field screws .. I won't have It.


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## cazna

moore said:


> I'm dead set against using hot mud on field screws .. I won't have It.


 
Please Sir, Do tell :yes:


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## br549

moore said:


> I'm dead set against using hot mud on field screws .. I won't have It.


I almost said something like "are you crazy?! Hotmud doesn't stick to screws or metal bead. Plus, the screws swell out and you have to scrape them before you second coat " But then I saw he's in Australia... where I guess they have actual good quality hotmud?? Maybe it flies with their stuff, I won't even think it with USG or proform. Sneeze too hard next to a stick of metal bead 1st coated with our hotmud it flakes right off, right back to bare metal :blink: The cutting oil that's left on screws doesn't help either.


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## gazman

moore said:


> I'm dead set against using hot mud on field screws .. I won't have It.


You are a Dad Rick, you know what sticks to a blanket. That's what our hot mud is like. :thumbsup:


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## Sweendog87

Sorry hot mud is a states name for **** mud we only have quality base coat and it the cats pyjamas 


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## loudcry184

I coat wall screws by hand and ceilings or any other high stuff with the nail spotter. I got a Rankee extendable handle on mine. Saves a lot of time by not having to use stilts or move a ladder around on a vaulted ceiling.


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## mld

moore said:


> I'm dead set against using field screws .. I won't have It.


Fify


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## Sweendog87

What's fify mean sorry mld


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## moore

Sweendog87 said:


> What's fify mean sorry mld
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree.


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## sheep

Probably a typo. Id say he meant ftfy. Fixed that for you


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## moore

sheep said:


> Probably a typo. Id say he meant ftfy. Fixed that for you


No! Fify's a word!:yes:


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## moore

trefidy - $350


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## mld

Fixed it for you. Fify.


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## Sweendog87

Ah I see cheers 


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## endo_alley

RCinPA said:


> I sold my set of spotters do to the problem of the hangers leaving many screws out. I told the contractor that if he would let the hanger spot the screws he would get an idea of what the finisher is dealing with . I'm not talking of an occasional screw out. We counted over 200 in one house. That gets old real quick.


200 misses would be a clean house around here. Usually a couple of journeyman get the sheets up around here and a cub follows to screw everything off. It can be a battle to get the first coat on the screws.


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## Batman

In my humble opinion nail spotters suck. They're good for nails, not so much for screws. You have to go over everything twice if you're spotting small holes. You also have to fix the defects in the sheetrock as a separate step as well. So I either get on stilts, fix everything, get down, then spot nails on the ground, or just get up and fix/coat all in one shot. Plus a pan is 15 bucks and a knife 8$, and a nail spotter is 300$ or so, and requires repair from time to time.


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## spacklinfool

Ive been using the tt spotters for decades, 2 then three and never had a problem, learn how to run them and you make excellent time..


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## endo_alley

spacklinfool said:


> Ive been using the tt spotters for decades, 2 then three and never had a problem, learn how to run them and you make excellent time..


Have you ever shined a halogen light along the edges you leave? And how do you address the hundreds of "misses" in a house where hangers miss the stud, and then pull the screws?


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## spacklinfool

endo_alley said:


> Have you ever shined a halogen light along the edges you leave? And how do you address the hundreds of "misses" in a house where hangers miss the stud, and then pull the screws?


all screws are fixed by hand prior to running spotter, litely sand lines with 180 paper prior to polish and halogen lite only with level 4-5 finish..misses suck as we know..push in paper with rounded tool..


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## endo_alley

spacklinfool said:


> all screws are fixed by hand prior to running spotter, litely sand lines with 180 paper prior to polish and halogen lite only with level 4-5 finish..misses suck as we know..push in paper with rounded tool..


I am glad you address fixing bad screws and misses by hand. I guess my point is that by the time you do that it is just as easy to fill the screw heads by hand as to use a spotter. And you get a better fill in the process. Back when drywall was nailed on, in the 1970's and before, the nail spotter sailed over the nail dimples. A simple tap with a hammer fixe the poorly set nail. But then there were nail pops.


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## embella plaster

Thats how i see it i think i would top with a nail spotter deffinately but by the time u fix all those misses and hang outs u may aswell be up there on the stilts while fixing them give them a coat of mud


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