# rebate mate tool for butt joints??



## PAK Plastering (Jun 21, 2016)

hey guys, just wondering if many ppl use the rebate mate tool on their butt joints??
im looking into buying 1 to eliminate the chance of butt joints peaking and cracking, is the tool any good??
if not how do others do their butt joints??
krem


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Gazmans the best for answering this, I have used a rebate mate, Yeah it works well, But its more time, And its quite a deep recess so it needs more prefill coats or you will get delayed shrinkage, Buttboards are another answer, They are fast and easy. But all we have here is the standard backblocking that the builders constantly make a total dogs bollocks out of.


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

never used one but reading the reviews the process requires some time you might not have.....I would go with the buttboards


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Yeah the rebate mate does take time. Sheets need to placed right so the ends supported and at a nice height. Like a stack of sheets and the top ones only just over hanging. Then it helps if someone can hold the sheet for you as you make your cut or you can just push the whole sheet. You need to try and do it one clean movement from start to finish. You can't go back or you can make a real mess of the face paper. Its still a great tool and very good idea just like any tool though it has its querks.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Sorry late to the party on this one, been away for a long weekend. Ditto to every thing that Caz said.:thumbsup:


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## PAK Plastering (Jun 21, 2016)

ive never seen the butt board here before, wats it made from??
i could make some from some chipboard and my elec planer i guess
thanks for the feedback guys
krem


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

They are made from a type of particle board. It would be time consuming to make them with an electric plane, the other problem is we are supposed to back block butts according to Au standards. Bent battens and back blocking ticks the boxes, it is quick and fulfills the Au standards. The rebate mate is a fantastic tool, the only downside is the time it takes to create the rebate. Very easy to set, just treat it like a recessed joint, and use the boxes.


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## PAK Plastering (Jun 21, 2016)

we normally just use some treated pine decking thats 22mm think, just 2mm thinner than our normal 24mm battens, nail that upto the truss and then screw sheet to that, however, a new building firm were doing work for sets out their calendar plate (plat around the outside walls the trusses sit on) too thin so we need to use 16mm flimsy battens, so i need a new solution, i know that the back block method works, and its still on the cards, just looking for new alternatives, maybe something that works better, 
up until the last 12 months (since ive started on my own) we've very rarely back blocked our joins, not 1 group ive worked with have done it 
ive done them before by backblocking the join, then screw up 4 bits of battens spaced evenly up on the face side of the sheet and slid some 1.5mm spacers between the sheet and the battens, gives a nice even rise,
the butt boards look the go, i do alot of work for a kitchen place, was thinking of seein if they would rip some 12mm board into 100mm strips, then tack a 10mm wide 1.5mm strip on either side to make a shim, wont cost me anything, lol, 
thanks for the input guys, appreciate it
krem


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Get some 16mm Rondo batten, cut them at about 350mm long, then using the drywall axe give them a light tap in the center. Screw 4 of these on your butts (on the top side not underneath, they remain in place permanently), this results in about a 3mm recess. Back block then tape and finish, they come out great.


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## gordie (Nov 6, 2012)

I think it would work pretty good off my buddy cart. Is Australia the only place to get these ?


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Was looking at a job today and the butts have a reses also!
Not quite the same as the bevel but has I reses that will take the tape!
Joiner told me they were £2 a sheet more expensive!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Was looking at a job today and the butts have a reses also!
> Not quite the same as the bevel but has I reses that will take the tape!
> Joiner told me they were £2 a sheet more expensive!


 Really? Factory made like that.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> Really? Factory made like that.


Yup but I forgot to take a pic of it and I think its flat taped now! I will b in past the morn so c if I can get a pic!:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> Really? Factory made like that.


Here u go Caz!
Had a look at it today and yea it works!:thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Here u go Caz!
> Had a look at it today and yea it works!:thumbsup:


That's sweet...But you had to end up with a rough edge to the recess somewhere ..Right ? I mean unless the joist and wall studs are laid out in a perfect pattern . [If you know what I'm getting at?] Even Still If only half the butts in a home met up recess to recess That would be worth it !!! :yes::yes:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

moore said:


> That's sweet...But you had to end up with a rough edge to the recess somewhere ..Right ? I mean unless the joist and wall studs are laid out in a perfect pattern . [If you know what I'm getting at?] Even Still If only half the butts in a home met up recess to recess That would be worth it !!! :yes::yes:


The way its done over here is that the total ceiling is boarded first!
So its more or less sheeted 1 side to the other(If u know what I mean?)
Then next row will b staggered from the first sheets! And so on until the ceiling is boarded:blink: Then the partitions go up and the stand ups! 
I aint no joiner/boarder and no clue the centres they work! But I would b willing to work behind that boards anyday!:thumbup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> The way its done over here is that the total ceiling is boarded first!
> So its more or less sheeted 1 side to the other(If u know what I mean?)
> Then next row will b staggered from the first sheets! And so on until the ceiling is boarded:blink: Then the partitions go up and the stand ups!
> I aint no joiner/boarder and no clue the centres they work! But I would b willing to work behind that boards anyday!:thumbup:


So all those recessed butts fell on a joist or stud? 
That's amazing Vanman ! That would never happen on some of the homes I do.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

moore said:


> So all those recessed butts fell on a joist or stud?
> That's amazing Vanman ! That would never happen on some of the homes I do.


Pass Moore I am usually not in a house until ready!
But usually the butt ends land on out of whack trusses or joists :furious:


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

gordie said:


> I think it would work pretty good off my buddy cart. Is Australia the only place to get these ?


I've got a few of them here in Limerick, PA, USA. I've been working with NYC Union Carpenters of late to get past all of the "believing is seeing" assumptions that are part of introducing any new process that interrupts conventional means and methods. It takes about 2 minutes to produce a rebated butt ... 2 min/60 min = .0333 hrs ... .0333 hrs/butt x $120/hr = $4.00/butt. Please plug your rate into that formula and tell me which is more cost effective when considering the cost to purchase or produce and install "butt boards". How much does it cost to tape/finish/sand a butt joint?


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## Wimpy65 (Dec 17, 2013)

800PoundGuerrilla said:


> I've got a few of them here in Limerick, PA, USA. I've been working with NYC Union Carpenters of late to get past all of the "believing is seeing" assumptions that are part of introducing any new process that interrupts conventional means and methods. It takes about 2 minutes to produce a rebated butt ... 2 min/60 min = .0333 hrs ... .0333 hrs/butt x $120/hr = $4.00/butt. Please plug your rate into that formula and tell me which is more cost effective when considering the cost to purchase or produce and install "butt boards". How much does it cost to tape/finish [/SIZE][/FONT]
> 
> While I think that tool is cool & the process is amazing, there is no way I would want that instead of a butt board. I wouldn't be able to get my hangers to take the time to rebate the butt ends, but they like using the butt boards. Often the first sheet in the row can be measured from the floor. And, as Moore said a while ago, the framing doesn't always hold out for the factory sheet length. But with the butt boards, that doesn't matter. I use them on every job and just increase my price accordingly!
> Not only do butt boards work very well in their intended use, they also make great backing material for patches! :thumbup:


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