# Flat Boxes



## jace (Aug 25, 2011)

What is the best brand of flat boxes? Does anyone have an opinion on the power assist flat boxes?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jace said:


> What is the best brand of flat boxes? Does anyone have an opinion on the power assist flat boxes?


1st post eh' :whistling2:

read through the post, brand preference could be ,it's what your supply store sells, or you like a certain colour. If you read the post, you will get a general idea for who people like.

Power assist question is ok, but you will need someone who has ran both type boxes to answer that, and I have not. I think only one company has the power assist, I forget their name. Think it begins with a "T", it's two names, think the last word starts with a "T" also...... if only I could remember that companies name, maybe you can help me and post their logo for me jace, jog my memory for me


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> 1st post eh' :whistling2:
> 
> read through the post, brand preference could be ,it's what your supply store sells, or you like a certain colour. If you read the post, you will get a general idea for who people like.
> 
> Power assist question is ok, but you will need someone who has ran both type boxes to answer that, and I have not. I think only one company has the power assist, I forget their name. Think it begins with a "T", it's two names, think the last word starts with a "T" also...... if only I could remember that companies name, maybe you can help me and post their logo for me jace, jog my memory for me


:lol:


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

The question of which brand is best will get different answers from different people. Alot of it is personal preference. I have used alot of brands and I prefer Drywall Master. I didn't care for the Blue Line tools but, many people on here like them the best. They were different from what I was used to using.

I would not recommend the Goldblatt line of auto tools.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> :lol:


so 2buck you have a dm Taper and how is that and was there not a flag on it?


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> The question of which brand is best will get different answers from different people. Alot of it is personal preference. I have used alot of brands and I prefer Drywall Master. I didn't care for the Blue Line tools but, many people on here like them the best. They were different from what I was used to using.
> 
> I would not recommend the Goldblatt line of auto tools.


well said


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> so 2buck you have a dm Taper and how is that and was there not a flag on it?


The DM pump had a American flag on it, took a lot of scrubbing to get it off :whistling2:

2bjr owns the DM zookie , (once I get my money for it)

My zookie is a gold coloured one, never came with a logo on it, not sure who makes it:whistling2:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> The question of which brand is best will get different answers from different people. Alot of it is personal preference. I have used alot of brands and I prefer Drywall Master. I didn't care for the Blue Line tools but, many people on here like them the best. They were different from what I was used to using.
> 
> I would not recommend the Goldblatt line of auto tools.


I think MT Buckets says it well Jace. I have a Columbia 10 inch and a Drywall Master 12 inch and think they are just great, maybe the 2 best names in boxes. Then again I might be biased. :yawn:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

If you need the power assit,,,its cause your useing too short a handle on your box,,,,,,,,



Just ask Moore about trying to box them top wall butts,,,,,,,:thumbup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> If you need the power assit,,,its cause your useing too short a handle on your box,,,,,,,,
> 
> 
> 
> Just ask Moore about trying to box them top wall butts,,,,,,,:thumbup:


Don't ask me about boxing ...I'm still trying ! I do like my box !:yes:
Looking at the 7'' TT box for xmas..Wife said ...NO!..But Santa [me] said yes..


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I have ran both the standard and the power assist boxes. Imo the power assist is a waste of time. Just stick with the standard boxes.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

OK...stupid question :blink: Whats power assist....

I know Capt....Pay attention man!!


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## E.K Taper (Jun 15, 2011)

Hey Moore, power assist boxes do not require you to push on thebox while holding the handle! You just place the box on your ceiling tape, and MOVE! I think its to do with the springs, being extra powerful and stuff so you dont have to exert yourself on high ceilings/walls.
I've never used them myself but saw them on youtube and read guys reviews on here


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

They have extra springs that can push the box flap so you dont have to push as much.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> OK...stupid question :blink: Whats power assist....
> 
> I know Capt....Pay attention man!!


Never a stupid question, I asked the same thing myself a year ago. And Sminer was kind enough to post pics of them, some where on this site.:blink:

It's sites like these to keep us on top of things:thumbup:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Never a stupid question, I asked the same thing myself a year ago. And Sminer was kind enough to post pics of them, some where on this site.:blink:
> 
> It's sites like these to keep us on top of things:thumbup:


 well moore the power assist works opposite of a regular box when you push on the rear wheels it releaces and 2 tension spring pull the door shut pushing out the compound..sometimes i like it and some times i dont


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> OK...stupid question :blink: Whats power assist....
> 
> I know Capt....Pay attention man!!


 I have never ran them, so I may be off base here,,,, but the guy that taught me boxes,,, when I asked him about them (he was a Ames rental guy) put it this way,,,,,

We take the springs off our regular boxes,,,, so why would you get a box that has stronger springs?????? Made sense to me anyway


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

the boxes on top are power assist the lower boxes are standard any question


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

jace said:


> What is the best brand of flat boxes? Does anyone have an opinion on the power assist flat boxes?


For brand of boxes, at least in the smaller sizes, my Columbia 8 and 10 inch Fat Boys are my choice for production, while giving good coating quality, and good wear and tear. I use a 12" std. Columbia for finishing, as the 12" FatBoy can be a bit unwieldy.

Power Assist boxes are what I'd call a special application box - not what I would choose for everyday operating. But I was boxing 8' high horizontal flats with a 10" Power Assist the other day, off of stilts, when my shoulder wouldn't let me do it well enough with my 10" FatBoy.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

JustMe said:


> For brand of boxes, at least in the smaller sizes, my Columbia 8 and 10 inch Fat Boys are my choice for production, while giving good coating quality, and good wear and tear. I use a 12" std. Columbia for finishing, as the 12" FatBoy can be a bit unwieldy.
> 
> Power Assist boxes are what I'd call a special application box - not what I would choose for everyday operating. But I was boxing 8' high horizontal flats with a 10" Power Assist the other day, off of stilts, when my shoulder wouldn't let me do it well enough with my 10" FatBoy.


My 12" fatboy is my best running box a little heavy but u get a lot of distance


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

JustMe said:


> For brand of boxes, at least in the smaller sizes, my Columbia 8 and 10 inch Fat Boys are my choice for production, while giving good coating quality, and good wear and tear. I use a 12" std. Columbia for finishing, as the 12" FatBoy can be a bit unwieldy.
> 
> Power Assist boxes are what I'd call a special application box - not what I would choose for everyday operating. But I was boxing 8' high horizontal flats with a 10" Power Assist the other day, off of stilts, when my shoulder wouldn't let me do it well enough with my 10" FatBoy.


 Thats why I made that snide comment about the handle lenght,,,If you want "easy" put a 6ft handle on your box when your running upper wall butts,,,,only takes a cpl mins to change,,,takes ALL the work out of it.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

sdrdrywall said:


> My 12" fatboy is my best running box a little heavy but u get a lot of distance


I've run 12" FatBoys. Good boxes for over sized ones, and my company has a few of them. But things like the throat openings being larger than the std. boxes, so you get the possibility of more mud spillage, especially if you're using thinner mud for finishing; and the maneuverability of them being less than the std. boxes, for things like swinging around electrical boxes; and my using 2buck's boxing system a lot, so it reduces the mud requirements by the time it comes to the 12" finishing part; and their overall just being easier on you and easier to use, control - things like that made me decide on the std.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Thats why I made that snide comment about the handle lenght,,,If you want "easy" put a 6ft handle on your box when your running upper wall butts,,,,only takes a cpl mins to change,,,takes ALL the work out of it.


Like I said Capt, I see the Power Assist boxes as being special application boxes. Examples:

A 6 ft. handle wouldn't have helped my boxing 8' high horizontal flats  with my 10" FatBoy. Because of my shoulder, the power assist was what was needed. 8' high horizontal flats might not be something you run across a lot, but we do in our commercial work.

I see smisner is running Bead Boxers on his Power Assist boxes. I haven't used Power Assists for that yet, but there might come a time when I can't box something like a high bulkhead underside with my Columbia boxes, and then I could see the extra help from the Power Assists maybe coming in handy enough. (I don't use Bead Boxers with my Columbias, but lock and lift their wheels off, and guide their blade edges along the bead edge.)

I haven't gotten into comparing what it would be like to box a ceiling or butt joints that maxes you out when it comes to height reach - what it would be like to box with a 10" FatBoy vs. 10" Power Assist, with say a 6' handle. Maybe I'll do that one day soon.

I'm not too crazy about the quality of the 10" Power Assist box I've got, though. But it serves for the (usually) 1st coat, on the odd occasion I've found it handy enough to pull it out.


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## TapeTech (Aug 13, 2011)

smisner50s said:


> well moore the power assist works opposite of a regular box when you push on the rear wheels it releaces and 2 tension spring pull the door shut pushing out the compound..sometimes i like it and some times i dont


The Power Assist boxes do, in fact, operate a little differently than the standard boxes. This is why there is such a difference of opinions in these boxes.

With the standard boxes, it seems most pros put the wheels on the wall first and then press the blade to the wall when they start to push. 

With the Power Assist box, pressure on the wheels releases the gear and the reverse springs begin to apply pressure on the plate. So, if the blade is not against the wall, mud will flow out of the box and make a mess. The proper use of the Power Assist requires that you place the blade on the wall first and then apply the wheels (releasing the gear). Essentially the opposite action from standard boxes.

http://www.tapetech.com/learning-center/videos/using-the-power-assist-finishing-boxes

For anyone who has used the standard Flat box or EasyClean box, it can be challenging to use the Power Assist since you have to do the opposite of what you have taught your body to do for years. 

However, we have found that anyone who uses the Power Assist box first would never use the standard Flat box or EasyClean boxes since the Power Assist requires up to 50% less effort compared to standard boxes and has the same features as the EasyClean design.

The scenario Capt Sheetrock referred to is actually one of the key benefits of the Power Assist boxes. If you stand your sheets up vertically, boxing the upper sections of the vertical joints is much easier with a Power Assist box since it doesn't require so much effort. The same goes for ceilings.

At the end of the day, it comes down to personal preference, as with most things. Every tool has it's features and benefits. Ultimately, the user needs to decide what is most comfortable and easy to use for him.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Thank you for this thread Jace ..and ..Welcome to the site.:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

TapeTech said:


> With the standard boxes, it seems most pros put the wheels on the wall first and then press the blade to the wall when they start to push.


Thanks a lot Mike, now I'm going to be thinking about how I run my boxes Till I use them again:blink:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thanks a lot Mike, now I'm going to be thinking about how I run my boxes Till I use them again:blink:


I run them in reverse to most pros, I guess.

But I find that if you put the wheels to the wall 1st, you have to either step back to get the blade to settle onto the wall, or release the handle brake so the box blade can 'thunk'/settle onto the wall. In the meantime, putting wheels to the wall 1st can get the mud pushing out before you want it to, because there can be pressure on the pressure plate, but little resistance given to the mud from starting to flow out the throat opening.

At least that's how it's gone for me.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

TapeTech said:


> The Power Assist boxes do, in fact, operate a little differently than the standard boxes. This is why there is such a difference of opinions in these boxes.
> 
> With the standard boxes, it seems most pros put the wheels on the wall first and then press the blade to the wall when they start to push.
> 
> ...


did see one of the guys at work with the power assist but did not see him use it, another guy had the black plastic compound tube, I had to take a looksee:blink: at it sitting in a pail of water, is it thinner and longer as it looked? it looked pretty...... now now 2buck settle down


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I run them in reverse to most pros, I guess.
> 
> But I find that if you put the wheels to the wall 1st, you have to either step back to get the blade to settle onto the wall, or release the handle brake so the box blade can 'thunk'/settle onto the wall. In the meantime, putting wheels to the wall 1st can get the mud pushing out before you want it to, because there can be pressure on the pressure plate, but little resistance given to the mud from starting to flow out the throat opening.
> 
> At least that's how it's gone for me.


Don't think I use the brake at all on the walls to start my runs, when I lift off, then I brake. Ceilings, Think the brake is on most times till long runs. All butts and short joints it's brake on all the time. All I know is I never pay attention to the wheels.

Dammit, This is like when you go to train a guy, and you got to think about how you actually do things:furious:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Don't think I use the brake at all on the walls to start my runs, when I lift off, then I brake. Ceilings, Think the brake is on most times till long runs. All butts and short joints it's brake on all the time. All I know is I never pay attention to the wheels.
> 
> Dammit, This is like when you go to train a guy, and you got to think about how you actually do things:furious:


I should've specified better where I find the brake handy when putting a box to the wall for flats. I was thinking more of stand ups, which Mike had mentioned in his post. That was where my trainee was especially 'thunking' it to the wall, when she was going with the box locked out and wheels 1st.

Like you, I don't recall right now just how much I do use the brake when putting boxes to the wall for horizontal flats.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Btw, as Mike had said, I do see where if someone learns on Power Assist boxes, they might not really care for the added physical requirements of standard boxes.



TapeTech said:


> However, we have found that anyone who uses the Power Assist box first would never use the standard Flat box or EasyClean boxes since the Power Assist requires up to 50% less effort compared to standard boxes and has the same features as the EasyClean design.


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## jace (Aug 25, 2011)

Thanks for all of your posts. I have to make a decision so I can purchase my first set of boxes.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Another important consideration is the handle for the boxes. You can cheap out and get a simple handle or get an extendable handle.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I put the blade to the wall first (col fat-boys), then "thunk" the box to the wall,,, using the brake for when I need to,,,well,,,ya know,,,,,,stop the dern thing.

Really tho,,,, I use the brake to "lift" the wheels "off" the wall when needed


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Mudshark said:


> Another important consideration is the handle for the boxes. You can cheap out and get a simple handle or get an extendable handle.


In my commercial work, an extendable is usually what will work best for me. It's worth the added cost. Today I did 4' high horizontal flats (2buck style), 13-14' high corner bead (partly done off a 6' ladder), and the bottoms of 9-10' high bulkhead bead (from the ground), using a Columbia extendable handle.



Capt-sheetrock said:


> I put the blade to the wall first (col fat-boys), then "thunk" the box to the wall,,, using the brake for when I need to,,,well,,,ya know,,,,,,stop the dern thing.
> 
> Really tho,,,, I use the brake to "lift" the wheels "off" the wall when needed


Got a chance today to pay attention to how I do it. I'm the same way.


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

JustMe said:


> In my commercial work, an extendable is usually what will work best for me. It's worth the added cost. Today I did 4' high horizontal flats (2buck style), 13-14' high corner bead (partly done off a 6' ladder), and the bottoms of 9-10' high bulkhead bead (from the ground), using a Columbia extendable handle.


I agree JustMe - have the Northstar Adjustar now, but when it goes hope to get the Columbia.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I usually blade first then release the brake to drop the wheels down, on the topcoat I use the brake to lift the wheels off so they don't mark/dent the board, also lift the wheels for around switch cut outs etc. The Northstar handle needs a reasonable amount of pressure to hold the brake and I've already stripped and repaired it once.....So I think Santa needs to squeeze his fat arse down my chimney with a new Columbia handle this year :thumbsup:....well, maybe next xmas .


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Nothing against columbia I have blue line expandable handle and they work awesome


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

smisner50s said:


> Nothing against columbia I have blue line expandable handle and they work awesome


And I won't argue that they don't, because I've never tried one. (I most often like to try things out myself, before I condemn or condone them.)

There could be other extendables that might work better - for Me - than my Columbia. I don't know, as I haven't tried any others and compared.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> The Northstar handle needs a reasonable amount of pressure to hold the brake and I've already stripped and repaired it once.....So I think Santa needs to squeeze his fat arse down my chimney with a new Columbia handle this year :thumbsup:....well, maybe next xmas .


Does your handle have the kit in it, if so you can adjust the handle on it.

If not, taking all my tools to the Hospital one by one, get that 2bjr stink off of them:whistling2:. I took My Nstar handle in to remember if I got the kit installed, and I did. Then I got conned into getting it fixed for 40 bucks, it was missing the plate to hold the box on. I was thinking on sending it to you, then supply dude said he would check to see if he had one for you, (the kit) Told him you kiwi's get murdered with your prices on tools, will give you a good deal. If not, will send you mine , or we can trade handles or something, figure something out.

Just doing this by public forum, so you can't say no to me, since you did me a favour:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Does your handle have the kit in it, if so you can adjust the handle on it.
> 
> If not, taking all my tools to the Hospital one by one, get that 2bjr stink off of them:whistling2:. I took My Nstar handle in to remember if I got the kit installed, and I did. Then I got conned into getting it fixed for 40 bucks, it was missing the plate to hold the box on. I was thinking on sending it to you, then supply dude said he would check to see if he had one for you, (the kit) Told him you kiwi's get murdered with your prices on tools, will give you a good deal. If not, will send you mine , or we can trade handles or something, figure something out.
> 
> Just doing this by public forum, so you can't say no to me, since you did me a favour:thumbsup:


 Good on ya 2buck


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> Does your handle have the kit in it, if so you can adjust the handle on it.
> 
> If not, taking all my tools to the Hospital one by one, get that 2bjr stink off of them:whistling2:. I took My Nstar handle in to remember if I got the kit installed, and I did. Then I got conned into getting it fixed for 40 bucks, it was missing the plate to hold the box on. I was thinking on sending it to you, then supply dude said he would check to see if he had one for you, (the kit) Told him you kiwi's get murdered with your prices on tools, will give you a good deal. If not, will send you mine , or we can trade handles or something, figure something out.
> 
> Just doing this by public forum, so you can't say no to me, since you did me a favour:thumbsup:


Aw shucks, thanks 2Buck thats mighty good of you to offer but you don't have to return any favours....kinda takes the shine off doing a good deed when you get something in return , mine still works fine and has got a lot of life left in it yet, I'm just talking about my tool like a white guy standing at the urinal beside a black man wishing I could have one of those :glare:
I can't remember exactly what I did to fix mine but I think it was the metal thingee with a slot in it (part of the braking mechanism), I filed it and reshaped it to make it work like new again, it looks like it was made out of cheap soft metal.
So whats this "Kit" you speak of? is it some sort of replacement for a known fault or something?
By the way, I can't believe I'm saying this to another man but......Nice ass 2buck (your avatar)


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

kiwiman said:


> aw shucks, thanks 2buck thats mighty good of you to offer but you don't have to return any favours....kinda takes the shine off doing a good deed when you get something in return :d, mine still works fine and has got a lot of life left in it yet, i'm just talking about my tool like a white guy standing at the urinal beside a black man wishing i could have one of those :glare:
> I can't remember exactly what i did to fix mine but i think it was the metal thingee with a slot in it (part of the braking mechanism), i filed it and reshaped it to make it work like new again, it looks like it was made out of cheap soft metal.
> So whats this "kit" you speak of? Is it some sort of replacement for a known fault or something?
> By the way, i can't believe i'm saying this to another man but......nice ass 2buck (your avatar)


lmao!


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

sdrdrywall said:


> My 12" fatboy is my best running box a little heavy but u get a lot of distance


Reg 12 goes far what does to fat ones run in footage?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Aw shucks, thanks 2Buck thats mighty good of you to offer but you don't have to return any favours....kinda takes the shine off doing a good deed when you get something in return , mine still works fine and has got a lot of life left in it yet, I'm just talking about my tool like a white guy standing at the urinal beside a black man wishing I could have one of those :glare:
> I can't remember exactly what I did to fix mine but I think it was the metal thingee with a slot in it (part of the braking mechanism), I filed it and reshaped it to make it work like new again, it looks like it was made out of cheap soft metal.
> So whats this "Kit" you speak of? is it some sort of replacement for a known fault or something?
> By the way, I can't believe I'm saying this to another man but......Nice ass 2buck (your avatar)


Well thanks for complimenting my a$$ Kiwiman









And just for you, here's some sheep, I remember you saying you like them both ways, guess you must bi-sheepular

The kit, is some type of rod/shaft you install in the handle. It has a bolt at the one end that you can turn to put more tension on the brake. So it will extend the life of the handle.

So, I know the early handles, you could not adjust the brake, and you had to buy the kit for them,,,,,, so depending on when you bought the handle, it may or may not have the kit in it.

Are you more confused now:thumbup:


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## guijarrero (Oct 17, 2011)

why there are power assist boxes with their springs at the top (reverse springs)?









and other with spring fixed to the plate?









Does anyone know how springs work in both :thumbsup:?


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## guijarrero (Oct 17, 2011)

:tongue:
I'm sorry!! Easy Clean.. not power assist..
I just googled power assist and pay attention just to the picture

(I think I'm going blind..)


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Both of those pics are of power assist boxes. It is just that the springs have been disconected on the bottom pic. 
If you look at the spring set up on the top pic you can see how they will pull on the arms which will push the flap of the box down. The ratchet at the rear stops it from pushing the flap down whilst you are not running the box.
I have only used the power assist once and I did not like them at all. Went back to my easy cleans. Hope this helps.


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## Integrity (Apr 13, 2013)

I plan on easing into the flat box family - not going out and buying a 3000 dollar 'kit' before I know I like them. can you gentleman (and I think someone said there is a lady on here) recommend the tools that you feel save you the most time?
Think of it this way - if you had to finish two identical rooms, in one you had to tape and finish using a hawk and trowel...the other you were allowed to use, in addition to a mud pump, 3 other tools (banjo box, flat box, bazooka tube, nail spotter, corner blades, tape roller, whatever.) which would you choose?
I guess another way of stating that would be if you were only allowed to keep a few of your drywall finishing tools, what would they be?
Precision Taping - I've seen your videos, maybe you can share with group whatever black magic spell that ables you to bang out a room so quickly......successfully I might add.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

gazman said:


> Both of those pics are of power assist boxes. It is just that the springs have been disconected on the bottom pic.
> If you look at the spring set up on the top pic you can see how they will pull on the arms which will push the flap of the box down. The ratchet at the rear stops it from pushing the flap down whilst you are not running the box.
> I have only used the power assist once and I did not like them at all. Went back to my easy cleans. Hope this helps.


Been running the PA's for a long time....once you get used to them, they're soooo easy:yes:


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Integrity it sounds like you are asking which auto tools are the most important to own. I would say the flat boxes are at the top of the list.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

If at this stage you are hand finishing and want to break into the auto tools and are restricted by budget, here is what I would do. The Homax box represents the best bang for buck that you will get. For $50 or less (depending where you are ) you will triple your taping speed over hand taping. The next step would be boxes, get a 7" or 8"( depending on brands) and a 10" or 12". Of course as you mentioned you will need a pump, unless you get or make a quickfill. So with those few tools your production has probably quadrupled for a fairly limited outlay.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

gazman said:


> If at this stage you are hand finishing and want to break into the auto tools and are restricted by budget, here is what I would do. The Homax box represents the best bang for buck that you will get. For $50 or less (depending where you are ) you will triple your taping speed over hand taping. The next step would be boxes, get a 7" or 8"( depending on brands) and a 10" or 12". Of course as you mentioned you will need a pump, unless you get or make a quickfill. So with those few tools your production has probably quadrupled for a fairly limited outlay.


 Ur spot on there Gaz! I put on some tapes the other day in a vault with the homax and readymix and its so easy!(Usually use hotmud in it) I use just the 8 and 12 now with perfect results! The 10 is no longer needed since i came on this site!:thumbup:


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## Integrity (Apr 13, 2013)

"...the 8 and the 12 with perfect results..."
Do you mean the 8 and 12 flat boxes? -just adjust the mud amount on the 8 and 12?


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Integrity said:


> "...the 8 and the 12 with perfect results..."
> Do you mean the 8 and 12 flat boxes? -just adjust the mud amount on the 8 and 12?


Yea load with the 8 and sand then skim with the 12! Works great!:thumbsup: No fears of edge showing after paint!!!
I only started doing this after coming on this site and bet i am about the only guy in the UK 2 do this system!! I'm always waiting 2 get pulled up on it!(For missing the 10 out) But no1 has ever said a word because my work is still good without the exrta hump!!


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## Integrity (Apr 13, 2013)

Thanxs for all of your help gents.
This is what I'm going with
-Homax Banjo Box (with corner attch.)
-Corner roller (not sure what BRAND)
-Corner flusher (not sure sure what SIZE or BRAND)
- 10" Columbia Fat boy flat box
-12" Columbia flat box
- and some Skittles

-any suggestions for the roller or flusher?
-and is it worth picking up an angle head? the whole set up seems cost preventative?
can you attach a angle head to a CT?


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## Deezal (Mar 9, 2013)

Can't attach to a tube unless its that mud runner thing by Tt(I think) buy that's blow your budget big time. Gonna have to go with the tins or snowplows whatever you wanna calm em. You go 2 choices direct or standard. Direct puts mud out at the same time And it fits pn your tube the standard ones just go on the flusher handle. I prefer the standard ones, just pick up the inside corner applicator for putting mod on with the tube for embed before roll and flush and then over top after an flush behind. Thats what I used to do before I got my columbia angle box and the mechanical heads. Columbia is always a good choice for handles but they are expensive (worth it in my opinion) I have a can an flusher handle at the moment and its on of those unscrew and extend and screw k tighten jobbies I don't mind it but. Definately love the click extension action of Columbia and other brands. Whatever your choice go with the click extension its the best. My tube and roller are also can-am the roller handle isn't extendable and I always wish it was.but the rolling action is fine. Just in the process of switching all to Columbia that being said.


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## Deezal (Mar 9, 2013)

Never going to go wrong with Columbia my only suggestion is staying away from the fibreglass handles, reachline all the way


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