# Finish Sanding Headlamp?



## DwHavoc (Dec 19, 2011)

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has a good headlamp system they use for finish sanding instead of trouble light with cord or floodlight. I picked one up last week but it was grossly under-powered for the task and I'm now on a mission to find something bright enough and hands-free for sanding day.
I was thinking maybe a bicycling headlamp? They are powerful enough and can be strapped to my noodle so maybe...
Anyone tried a similar system? I hate my ultra-hot trouble light


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

I've got a couple good headlamps I use for hunting. Tried for sanding but found that the angle of light was wrong. For me anyway I need the light shining more across the joint to highlight any imperfections


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

DwHavoc said:


> Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has a good headlamp system they use for finish sanding instead of trouble light with cord or floodlight. I picked one up last week but it was grossly under-powered for the task and I'm now on a mission to find something bright enough and hands-free for sanding day.
> I was thinking maybe a bicycling headlamp? They are powerful enough and can be strapped to my noodle so maybe...
> Anyone tried a similar system? I hate my ultra-hot trouble light


http://drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=4074


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

I use one of these to fine sand. I't light weight runs cool and put the light right where you need it. Lamp holder $2 CFL bulb $1
On stilts put the cord over your shoulder. No burns.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Id drop that before i finished a job for sure. I buy the cheapo adjustable headlights from the box stores for sponge sanding and touch up.


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## DwHavoc (Dec 19, 2011)

How do you like the headlamp, icerock? Do you know how many lumens you use?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

DwHavoc said:


> How do you like the headlamp, icerock? Do you know how many lumens you use?


I have 3 of them...they all work good and I don't the led lumens but its bright


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

These things will light up the whole town!:yes:
1600 lumens!:thumbup:


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## DwHavoc (Dec 19, 2011)

Well after looking at the price of the brightest headlamp I could find (4500 lumens) almost $1200! I've been exploring other options. Maybe just cordless instead of a head mount?
Also as D A mentioned, changing the angle of where the light is coming from finds imperfections better. I fully agree with that bud.
P.A. do you find those bright enough? I'm on the fence about the white lights...They kinda get lost on the wall for me :/
So does anyone have any other interesting lighting set-up for final sand? There's gotta be a mad genius out there to revolutionize the whole process haha


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

here is a big one


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

im sure you can build one yourself for reasonably cheap. Get some high power cree xm-l or luminus sst90 LEDs and mount them on a slab of aluminum. Add some drivers and then you can mount the piece on something to move around. SST90's are about 2200lumens a piece, xml's about 900 a piece ran in series of 3 would be nice. The options are out there to make a killer setup pretty easily.you can even add some optics to the leds to get more out of them. i built some luxeon rebel modules for my cars turn signals that easily can light up walls 10 blocks away and were under 50 bucks to build. The problem i see with the majority of the premade headlamps out there is that they overpower and overrate these cheap chineese leds that are bound to fail prematurely. i bet half of them out there rated above 2000lumens arent really putting out more then 900lumens if tested.

As for the pic above those use very cheap 5mm standard LEDs. Im sure that wont put out more then 40lumens tops and wont throw light very far at all.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

This light right here uses genuine LEDS ,US made and could probably light up a few blocks like its daytime. 50 watts/3800lumens of LED is crazy

http://www.ledsupply.com/led-bulbs/50-watt-led-flood-light


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

We will often use a small clamp style light with 150 watt incandescent bulb. The kind with an aluminum reflector brim. Clamp the light to one end of a mud pan during touchup.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> We will often use a small clamp style light with 150 watt incandescent bulb. The kind with an aluminum reflector brim. Clamp the light to one end of a mud pan during touchup.


my led pan light works great for touchup...made it two years ago and was told no one would use one:whistling2:


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

i use those clamp lights on occasion too. Mostly just stick to my dual 500w halogen tripod and shine it down the wall or what not.Its pretty much the standard in most trades for finding scratches etc even in car detailing. One less thing to carry. I can see why some dont like them though expecially on hot days. 

I wonder how a nice high power led headband light would work . Shines light where your looking.


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## DwHavoc (Dec 19, 2011)

Well after weeks of light hunting, I finally decided on an LED headband with 500 Lumens. Most bang for the buck I could find. Got it with 2 rechargeable batteries so no buying endless AA's. 
I'm still wary of the LEDs but I'm hoping if its bright enough that won't matter. 
Here she is--
http://www.fenixtactical.com/fenix-hp30.html


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

We usually use the incandescent clamp lights in conjunction with halogens on the floor. The floor light lights up the room. And the clamp light can go right up against the wall. Anyhow, I have a few old school (halide) "Nite Rider" mountain biking lights that I don't use much anymore for mountain bike riding at night. They are quite bright. And were quite expensive when I bought them. I may consider mounting one of them to a hardhat or headband and see how that works for illuminating touchup.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> We usually use the incandescent clamp lights in conjunction with halogens on the floor. The floor light lights up the room. And the clamp light can go right up against the wall. Anyhow, I have a few old school (halide) "Nite Rider" mountain biking lights that I don't use much anymore for mountain bike riding at night. They are quite bright. And were quite expensive when I bought them. I may consider mounting one of them to a hardhat or headband and see how that works for illuminating touchup.


 No clamps...I epoxy high power magnets to my led lights:whistling2:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

I have an 8" knife taped to the end of a pole with a 250 watt halogen taped below it. I can walk around and touch up ceilings really fast and hold it out to the side to get a good low angle on walls. The knife acts as a lighted hawk for walls. Can run through a 400 board house rather extensively in a couple hours.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

For me matching daylight is key. An led light just cant cut it. We have tried many and they all cant compete with a halogen sadly.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

DwHavoc said:


> Well after weeks of light hunting, I finally decided on an LED headband with 500 Lumens. Most bang for the buck I could find. Got it with 2 rechargeable batteries so no buying endless AA's.
> I'm still wary of the LEDs but I'm hoping if its bright enough that won't matter.
> Here she is--
> http://www.fenixtactical.com/fenix-hp30.html


That looks pretty good .Not the highest lumens but they are quality USA Cree XM-L LEDs. Fenix is pretty good. However i am not sure about those lithium -ions. I dont know what brand they are. They are Fenix relabled from what company i am not sure. Li-ions are very important that you get quality ones for safety (EXPECIALLY) when running 2 18650's in series. li-ions in series is always more dangerous then single because it causes one battery to drain faster then the other which can put a battery past its discharge voltage . I highly ,highly recomend you read up on lithium ion safety and charging procedures expecially when wearing them on your head where a exploding 18650 can do some real bodily damage. 

I also recomend you pick up some quality 18650's which there are only a few that are legit which are 1. AW protected or IMR 2.panasonic CGR18650CH

Also you will need a quality charger and the best there is the PILA IBC charger which is a true and safe CC algorythm. You will be more satisfied as well as they charge faster then any other charger and light will go green at a full 4.2v everytime. 

This is very important things to dther then that good choice.You will like it.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

thefinisher said:


> For me matching daylight is key. An led light just cant cut it. We have tried many and they all cant compete with a halogen sadly.


They surely can .You just need to get the right color temp. (warm white/daylight approx 4300k. With most cheaper leds they always will have a cool white 6000k+ color temp. Warm white LEDs the chineese have never been able to get right. What the leds cant compare to holgen is price per lumen however you do make most of that up with electricity savings on the much lower wattage of leds compared to 500w of hologen


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

FAB said:


> That looks pretty good .Not the highest lumens but they are quality USA Cree XM-L LEDs. Fenix is pretty good. However i am not sure about those lithium -ions. I dont know what brand they are. They are Fenix relabled from what company i am not sure. Li-ions are very important that you get quality ones for safety (EXPECIALLY) when running 2 18650's in series. li-ions in series is always more dangerous then single because it causes one battery to drain faster then the other which can put a battery past its discharge voltage . I highly ,highly recomend you read up on lithium ion safety and charging procedures expecially when wearing them on your head where a exploding 18650 can do some real bodily damage.
> 
> I also recomend you pick up some quality 18650's which there are only a few that are legit which are 1. AW protected or IMR 2.panasonic CGR18650CH
> 
> ...


Thanks for that. I was unaware that Li-ion were a problem. I know that Li-Po batteries are very sensitive to charge rates.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

gazman said:


> Thanks for that. I was unaware that Li-ion were a problem. I know that Li-Po batteries are very sensitive to charge rates.


The same safety precautions that go for li-po also go for li-ion pretty much. I personally like IMR's better then regular protected li-ion cells. IMR is a li-ion basically with different "safer" chemistry. They can withstand more current and have less chance of something really bad happening if accidentally over discharged even though they dont have built in protection. Protection circuits can fail on occasion. Not say a quality protected cell is bad though .Just a personal preference.

I like to always say cell instead of battery because a person without li-ion knowledge wont put them in the same catagory as a standard alkaline or nicad battery. Li-ion cells voltage must be watched carefully just like li-po cells. Never charge them past 4.2v or below 2.8v . You want to store them above 3.7v because they do drain by themself over time. A good charger is a must as well .I have seen cells blow up because of cheap chargers failing to cut-off. The USPS has even banned the shipment of li-ion cells on planes for safety concerns.

I looked at the Fenix 18650's and charger and they do look like quality stuff. Most likely they are relabeled quality cells. Always stay away from stuff that say trustfire,ultrafire or the likes because with those brands you can always "TRUST there will be a ULTRA fire"lol

I have been building high power flashlights and other things that use li-ions for years and never had one explode but treat them like what they are. i have heard numerous stories of people unaware of their dangers getting first degree burns or losing their fingers. 

Heres a good read on li-ion safety
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lithium_ion_safety_concerns

All in all i wouldnt worry about using them.Just as long as you practice safety and use quality nothing should ever go wrong.


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

early on when I was perfecting the sanding system, I used a long fluorescent light, just put it on a rolling platform real low to ground and faced it up towards wall, it caught all imperfections and made me a complete finisher, I now know how to finish and not need it anymore, but was well worth the time moving around!!!!!!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

FAB said:


> They surely can .You just need to get the right color temp. (warm white/daylight approx 4300k. With most cheaper leds they always will have a cool white 6000k+ color temp. Warm white LEDs the chineese have never been able to get right. What the leds cant compare to holgen is price per lumen however you do make most of that up with electricity savings on the much lower wattage of leds compared to 500w of hologen


I don't care about saving the builder on electricity if I'm the one touching up the house lol. You would have to show me an LED light with the ability to match the color and lumen output of a halogen.... even a 250 watt. A couple things that drew me to wanting to get an LED light to work was the lack of heat it produces and the ability to buy a cordless. I wont drag around a cord for an inferior lightning source. Don't want to miss much on the million dollar homes we do as our business relies on reputation. In our area the finishing is generally the same from company to company because it is all sub work. Yes, we specify certain things from our finishers that other companies do not which makes for a better end product. However, the thing that matters the most is the point-up/ touch-up. We rely heavily on being able to duplicate natural lighting to correct imperfections.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Okay, I'll play
This is the only light I use anymore. 
Shows everything and light up a dark room like daylight.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

thefinisher said:


> I don't care about saving the builder on electricity if I'm the one touching up the house lol. You would have to show me an LED light with the ability to match the color and lumen output of a halogen.... even a 250 watt. A couple things that drew me to wanting to get an LED light to work was the lack of heat it produces and the ability to buy a cordless. I wont drag around a cord for an inferior lightning source. Don't want to miss much on the million dollar homes we do as our business relies on reputation. In our area the finishing is generally the same from company to company because it is all sub work. Yes, we specify certain things from our finishers that other companies do not which makes for a better end product. However, the thing that matters the most is the point-up/ touch-up. We rely heavily on being able to duplicate natural lighting to correct imperfections.


I already posted one on the first page
http://www.ledsupply.com/led-bulbs/50-watt-led-flood-light

Matches color tempature in 3000k and equivlent in light output to a 250w halogen. Also comes with throwing no heat other then on its heatsink. Instant start up,cost of electric and much longer lifespan. Only thing the halogen has over it is cost.I bet it has better kight throw too. Thats not even the brightest ones out there. Im sure its possible to match a 500w halogen too. Sure it has a cord but so does a halogen . It is possble to make the led cordless though with the right driver and batteries.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I don't care about saving the builder on electricity if I'm the one touching up the house lol. You would have to show me an LED light with the ability to match the color and lumen output of a halogen.... even a 250 watt. A couple things that drew me to wanting to get an LED light to work was the lack of heat it produces and the ability to buy a cordless. I wont drag around a cord for an inferior lightning source. Don't want to miss much on the million dollar homes we do as our business relies on reputation. In our area the finishing is generally the same from company to company because it is all sub work. Yes, we specify certain things from our finishers that other companies do not which makes for a better end product. However, the thing that matters the most is the point-up/ touch-up. We rely heavily on being able to duplicate natural lighting to correct imperfections.


And your reputation relies on you to spend days touching up behind your workers?? WOW!

When I walk out ...I'm done! I never get called back for touch up...Yaknow why???? I ain't no ****in Mexican!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> And your reputation relies on you to spend days touching up behind your workers?? WOW!
> 
> When I walk out ...I'm done! I never get called back for touch up...Yaknow why???? I ain't no ****in Mexican!


95% of my touch ups are due to other trades dinging up the walls and cutting patches! There is so much trim and woodwork in these houses that it is impossible to keep the sheetrock in good condition. And I don't spend days touching up. I can touch up a 400 board house in about 2.5 hours and sand it the next day in 45 minutes. In our neck of the woods we are responsible for coming back and fixing any and all defects no matter who caused the damage which is BULLSH!T I AGREE BUT....... thats the way it is. Moore, I could go right behind you and touch up for hours if I wanted. Nobody finishes perfect! I'm sure in your neck of the woods the painter touches up small imperfections. There is a difference in running a company and being just a finisher.... Most finishers don't have to touch up anything afterward.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Moore, I could go right behind you and touch up for hours if I wanted. .


.......:no:......


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> 95% of my touch ups are due to other trades dinging up the walls and cutting patches! There is so much trim and woodwork in these houses that it is impossible to keep the sheetrock in good condition. And I don't spend days touching up. I can touch up a 400 board house in about 2.5 hours and sand it the next day in 45 minutes. In our neck of the woods we are responsible for coming back and fixing any and all defects no matter who caused the damage which is BULLSH!T I AGREE BUT....... thats the way it is. Moore, I could go right behind you and touch up for hours if I wanted. Nobody finishes perfect! I'm sure in your neck of the woods the painter touches up small imperfections. There is a difference in running a company and being just a finisher.... Most finishers don't have to touch up anything afterward.


Who's laying the floors ? Who's placing the trim behind you? 

OH!!! Wait.....I know who! :whistling2:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

mld said:


> Okay, I'll play
> This is the only light I use anymore.
> Shows everything and light up a dark room like daylight.
> 
> View attachment 10801


I want one?? I like Milwaukee gear, I have radio, drill, impact screwdriver multitool, Whats the model number on that MLD, I wonder if I can get one in nz??

Never mind, Its M18, My stuff is M12, Dam, Looks like a good light on u tube.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Who's laying the floors ? Who's placing the trim behind you?
> 
> OH!!! Wait.....I know who! :whistling2:


Generally White guys honestly. White guys are the worst when it comes to being careless about other trades. The flooring people always have a white guy there working but they also have brazilians laying the wood down. The trim guys are the worst of anybody. The tile guys also p!ss us off leaving grout all over the rock. I know you hate mexicans but we honestly must have a better breed of them then you. Most times I cant ask for better people to be finishing our houses. If you came here you would understand.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> If you came here you would understand.


It might happen! :thumbsup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> .......:no:......


Si amigo..... Go back to one of your shacks a month later when it is primed and trimmed out and see if you cant find anything to touch up :whistling2:...... You cant sit there and tell me that there wont be a pock mark in the mud, lap mark you missed sanding, trash in the mud, dent in the rock, settling of some sort, screw pop etc.... I'm talking near perfection here. Our houses arent some cookie cutter specs or small shacks. Very custom, intricate, often multi-million dollar homes. Touching up behind your work is what makes the difference!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> It might happen! :thumbsup:


Come on down!! I can keep you busy :yes:.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Si amigo..... Go back to one of your shacks a month later when it is primed and trimmed out and see if you cant find anything to touch up :whistling2:...... You cant sit there and tell me that there wont be a pock mark in the mud, lap mark you missed sanding, trash in the mud,


I can sit here and say just that!! Amigo!!!:yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Come on down!! I can keep you busy :yes:.


Busy doing what? I don't golf!! :whistling2:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> I can sit here and say just that!! Amigo!!!:yes:



Guess we need to start calling you Jesus! Soo... when you go fishing do you just walk out to your favorite part on the lake too? Sometimes pride has to get out of the way.... I would say I could finish perfect too but in reality that is never the case.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Busy doing what? I don't golf!! :whistling2:


How about hunt/fish/drink lol? Honestly I wouldn't mind hiring a good white finisher to do patches, small jobs, renovations, etc. Just hard to come by those types these days. All the good mexican finishers are finishing houses.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

High intensity led with a diffuser.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

I checked out that link. Says the max lumens offered with the bright white light is comparable to a 200 watt halogen. So the warm white (day light) which has less lumens would be compared to what? 150watt halogen? I'm not sure if that would be good enough. We use a 500 watt halogen for the walls and a 250 watt attached to a pole for the ceilings.... I found some 100 watt LED's but they are a bit bulky from the looks of them.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

thefinisher said:


> I checked out that link. Says the max lumens offered with the bright white light is comparable to a 200 watt halogen. So the warm white (day light) which has less lumens would be compared to what? 150watt halogen? I'm not sure if that would be good enough. We use a 500 watt halogen for the walls and a 250 watt attached to a pole for the ceilings.... I found some 100 watt LED's but they are a bit bulky from the looks of them.


With them being US made they underate there LEDs .If you compare the actual Lumens its slightly above the lumens a 250 hologen puts out. 

Also if you have ever seen a 50 or 100 watt LED in person they seem much brighter then a 250 hologen . Im guessing cause it throws light better . Google some pics of 50w LEDs. If they can light up a forrest like daytime then it should be plenty bright enough for interior drywall work. Dont get me wrong . I still use halogens myself only because i dont think the price is justified for our application.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

How about 500w 45,000 lumen LED

http://www.xledlight.com/LED-Reflector-Lights/500W-LED-Reflector-Lights.html

Bright enough for you .Thats i guess equivlent to a 3000w holagen. lol I guess these are for the day when the sun stops shining.

or this one thats made for lighting up the ocean
http://www.visatec.net/EN/01_Produk...ung/Produktblaetter/visatec-vt-500w-r-led.php

or even better 108,000 lumens. For sending the aliens morse code signals in a galaxy far far away ! 

http://www.visatec.net/EN/01_Produkte/Unterwasserbeleuchtung/Produktblaetter/VT_1020_LED.php


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Another thing I see as a problem for me is portability. I was looking at some of the measurements and they seemed really bulky. I need to carry it at all times. I think a cordless LED that put out the same lumens as a 250 watt halogen in the same light spectrum would be ideal. Granted it can last for about 3-4 hours.


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## FAB (May 6, 2014)

Ya with any of them high lumen LEDs they need massive size heatsinks to pull that heat away from the led


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