# skim coat plaster



## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

I am working for people that are fixing up there late 1900 house to sell,. anyway the walls are really rough plaster and there is a few cracks that need to be covered up. this is of course a tight budget job
So my question is can I use all purpose to skin coat or hot mud? and can I just v out the cracks and skim coat over?I know its not right but all I am doing is polishing a turd that will last a few months till they find some suckers like they was to buy it


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

I think by hot mud you guys mean durabond. When I skim depends if its a small job I do 2 coats, first with easy sand and screen tape all the cracks i usually put 2 layers just in case. I use easy sand since its easier to sand then dura bond and still as tough then last coat with green lid premixed. Usually if time isnt a problem then I still use screen tape on cracks and paper on corners with just green lid usg. Just make sure if u use hotmud that its nice and neat other wise ull have fun sanding.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

What about the poor people that buy that house and your crappy fix starts coming through and they find out who did it .if it was me I wouldn't want my name associated with it your name is all you have .just my opinion though.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Corey The Taper said:


> I think by hot mud you guys mean durabond. When I skim depends if its a small job I do 2 coats, first with easy sand and screen tape all the cracks i usually put 2 layers just in case. I use easy sand since its easier to sand then dura bond and still as tough then last coat with green lid premixed. Usually if time isnt a problem then I still use screen tape on cracks and paper on corners with just green lid usg. Just make sure if u use hotmud that its nice and neat other wise ull have fun sanding.


You should never use premix with mesh tape ever...


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

sdrdrywall said:


> You should never use premix with mesh tape ever...


Even if you used durabond before you put the premix? What I mean by just premix usg I mean I still tape it with durabond I just dont skim the whole wall with durabond. Just apply 2 layers of tape then trowel of durabond let dry then skim with usg premix


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Corey The Taper said:


> Even if you used durabond before you put the premix? What I mean by just premix usg I mean I still tape it with durabond I just dont skim the whole wall with durabond. Just apply 2 layers of tape then trowel of durabond let dry then skim with usg premix


Thats ok but for plaster repair look into big rolls of fibafus e you can apply it with usg green lid and skim it out with anything you like purple or blue lid much better product than mesh you can do full wall coverage its a beautiful thing


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

......


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> I am working for people that are fixing up there late 1900 house to sell,. anyway the walls are really rough plaster and there is a few cracks that need to be covered up. this is of course a tight budget job
> So my question is can I use all purpose to skin coat or hot mud? and can I just v out the cracks and skim coat over?I know its not right but all I am doing is polishing a turd that will last a few months till they find some suckers like they was to buy it


http://www.all-wall.com/FibaFuse-Paperless-Wall-Reinforcement.html


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

sdrdrywall said:


> Thats ok but for plaster repair look into big rolls of fibafus e you can apply it with usg green lid and skim it out with anything you like purple or blue lid much better product than mesh you can do full wall coverage its a beautiful thing


Yea I was thinking about using that stuff its pretty cheap too. Whats the best way of putting it on? Rolling compound on or with trowel


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

We normally knife it on .a little thinner mud makes for a easier in stall seems to have less tears easier to work with


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Yep, use the wide rolls of fibafuse. Don't use anything self adhesive for plaster cracks. I would put money on that wall never cracking again with fibafuse over the entire surface.


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

thefinisher said:


> Yep, use the wide rolls of fibafuse. Don't use anything self adhesive for plaster cracks. I would put money on that wall never cracking again with fibafuse over the entire surface.


Ya I got to use it today actually worked perfect for cracks on the walls but on the corners I had to be very gentle


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

FF in the angles, you need to make sure you wipe it in with a knife that has a flat spot on the side, and let that flat spot ride the other wall, and be gentle! IMO, best way for fuse is to roll and flush, with a tin flusher or a properly adjusted angle head.

Makes for easy 3 ways.


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

fr8train said:


> FF in the angles, you need to make sure you wipe it in with a knife that has a flat spot on the side, and let that flat spot ride the other wall, and be gentle! IMO, best way for fuse is to roll and flush, with a tin flusher or a properly adjusted angle head.
> 
> Makes for easy 3 ways.


Lol wish I could but I still hand tape gonna buy a compound tube and flushers soon and then wait to get boxes and a pump


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

sdrdrywall said:


> What about the poor people that buy that house and your crappy fix starts coming through and they find out who did it .if it was me I wouldn't want my name associated with it your name is all you have .just my opinion though.


If I turned down work because somebody doesn't want to spend the extra to get a quality job I would never work.
Seems like I work a lot for people trying to sell their house, flipping house or landlords. that's why these people have money is because of how they do just enough to make a sale. I like things to be perfect that's why probley why I'll never be rich


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> If I turned down work because somebody doesn't want to spend the extra to get a quality job I would never work.
> Seems like I work a lot for people trying to sell their house, flipping house or landlords. that's why these people have money is because of how they do just enough to make a sale. I like things to be perfect that's why probley why I'll never be rich


I didnt say he should turn it down but you still shouldn't do crap work or that's what youll be known for crap work .


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

sdrdrywall said:


> I didnt say he should turn it down but you still shouldn't do crap work or that's what youll be known for crap work .


Its not crap workmanship its the money they want to pay
Like not wanting a finish coat, just tape and fill it
Or not replacing crap drywall just paint over it
If you want to donate your time to do it the way it should, come on down, I'll buy your lunch


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> Its not crap workmanship its the money they want to pay
> Like not wanting a finish coat, just tape and fill it
> Or not replacing crap drywall just paint over it
> If you want to donate your time to do it the way it should, come on down, I'll buy your lunch


I dont donate anything I do quality work and get premium prices for it .you can definitely find cheaper prices than mine around here but my builders dont look for them .and ill take that lunch


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## McCallum and Sons (Nov 3, 2013)

Is that Fibafuse similar to Dryvit mesh but thinner? That looks like a pretty good product, I will have to order some.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

McCallum and Sons said:


> Is that Fibafuse similar to Dryvit mesh but thinner? That looks like a pretty good product, I will have to order some.


Its closest to fiberglass sheets for autobody work but we use it all the time repair boxes and outlets patches never been easier buy it you'll find a million uses for it


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

sdrdrywall said:


> Its closest to fiberglass sheets for autobody work but we use it all the time repair boxes and outlets patches never been easier buy it you'll find a million uses for it


Hell ya thanks for telling me about it gave me courage to buy it instead of waiting for a sample roll. It goes on so tight it barely looks like anything is there. But as fr8 said go gentle on the corners with a dull edged knife or it will tear on the corners.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Corey The Taper said:


> Hell ya thanks for telling me about it gave me courage to buy it instead of waiting for a sample roll. It goes on so tight it barely looks like anything is there. But as fr8 said go gentle on the corners with a dull edged knife or it will tear on the corners.


Order your self the big roll 3ft x 150ft you can cut a big piece to go over patches 1 piece tight and smooth youll be happy you did


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## MUDBONE (Dec 26, 2011)

sdrdrywall said:


> Order your self the big roll 3ft x 150ft you can cut a big piece to go over patches 1 piece tight and smooth youll be happy you did


Use alot of the small rolls thinking of going big thanks:thumbsup:Allwall the cheapest,


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

MUDBONE said:


> Use alot of the small rolls thinking of going big thanks:thumbsup:Allwall the cheapest,


I found home depot online is the cheapest.....


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## rohandy (Apr 1, 2014)

ditto on the mesh tape with ready mixed mud just isn't strong enough


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## beroXpert (Oct 10, 2014)

Have you ever tried the beroXpert finishing blade? 
http://www.beroxpert.com/tools/drywall-tools/finishing-blade--biflex.html

Frank 
from 
www.beroXpert.com


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## FixitmanArizona (Oct 28, 2014)

Moore;
Fibafuse is of course, wonderful stuff. I got in trouble on my first post here at the forum for mentioning it, but I think a lot of people like it. These sheets probably would be OK for the job mentioned. I've seen patches larger than that done with fiberglass mesh, horrible stuff, had to tear the whole wall out and re-do it. It would have been easier for them to simply tear it out and replace in the first place. Since the job mentioned is over plaster, I'm assuming lathe board and plaster, why would you need tape or re-enforcement however.
I've done a few patches in really old plaster with the sheetrock 45 minute easysand and it comes out perfectly. It's what I use on small drywall patches too. Stuff sticks great, it's a chemical harden product rather than evaporation process like mixed gypsum mud, and it's harder. The latest goes on really smooth. I had problems with it a few years back with lumps and/or not mixing up well but that seems to be fixed now.


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

I have used the super crack stop big rolls for plaster repair and it works very good, will try the fibafuse roll as well and compare..!


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

sdrdrywall said:


> Thats ok but for plaster repair look into big rolls of fibafus e you can apply it with usg green lid and skim it out with anything you like purple or blue lid much better product than mesh you can do full wall coverage its a beautiful thing


Level the surface with setting mud. Then imbed Fibafuse or even EIFS mesh/matting for crack suppression. Then after the matting has set, re-screw the whole wall or ceiling through the matting to hold it in place. Then continue the finish or decoration as you please.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Can even put the wide fibafuse on with spray glue... mud still goes right through it.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

rohandy said:


> ditto on the mesh tape with ready mixed mud just isn't strong enough


If ur using Mesh and readymix u aint no Taper!!:yes:
Then again if ur using Mesh ur still not a taper!


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

VANMAN said:


> If ur using Mesh and readymix u aint no Taper!!:yes:
> Then again if ur using Mesh ur still not a taper!


I don't know about that. WestPac taping compound dries harder than Easy Sand 90.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

endo_alley said:


> I don't know about that. WestPac taping compound dries harder than Easy Sand 90.


Drying harder has little to do with it. Most all A/P and taping muds will "dry harder" than your typical easy sand quick setting muds. The thing that creates the most problems is shrinking. Setting muds pretty much don't shrink and often times will swell a bit. The whole purpose of using mesh tape is so you can coat it right away. That taping mud is going to shrink back which wont work with mesh tape. I put "dry harder" in quotations because in fact it only sticks better and may be harder to sand but the quick set chemically hardens and doesn't shrink. Try sanding a completely cured coat of durabond lol You can sand the edges but the main mass of it isn't going to sand. That leads to the debate of whether or not the mesh tape is actually doing anything at all :whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> That leads to the debate of whether or not the mesh tape is actually doing anything at all :whistling2:


 And that's why taping with paper and hot mud IS the strongest bond .


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

There is a flaw in the mesh taping process. I don't care to share it right now. But you guys are getting close.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> There is a flaw in the mesh taping process. I don't care to share it right now. But you guys are getting close.


What ??? Use the sticky type?? LOL!!!


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

When we mesh tape patches, we "V" and prefill the joint with 20 minute or 5 minute compound. When it has set we spray 3M contact cement over the joint and tape with 2 layers of mesh tape. After that you can use any mud, hot or otherwise, over it you like with no ill effects.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

endo_alley said:


> When we mesh tape patches, we "V" and prefill the joint with 20 minute or 5 minute compound. When it has set we spray 3M contact cement over the joint and tape with 2 layers of mesh tape. After that you can use any mud, hot or otherwise, over it you like with no ill effects.


That sounds like a lot of work just to use a piece of mesh.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

*Fibafuse* :thumbup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

endo_alley said:


> When we mesh tape patches, we "V" and prefill the joint with 20 minute or 5 minute compound. When it has set we spray 3M contact cement over the joint and tape with 2 layers of mesh tape. After that you can use any mud, hot or otherwise, over it you like with no ill effects.


Too much work for a patch. You do realize that you could probably coat a patch (smallish) with just durabond and be fine. When have you ever seen just a patch crack. If you did it right you have more screws in it than the rest of the board vs. square footage. Not very much stress on a patch at all unless it is a big patch in an area that will be subject to movement. Would just coat the whole patch, slap some fibafuse over it and go from there! Then that area is stronger than the rock itself :yes:


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

thefinisher said:


> Too much work for a patch. You do realize that you could probably coat a patch (smallish) with just durabond and be fine. When have you ever seen just a patch crack. If you did it right you have more screws in it than the rest of the board vs. square footage. Not very much stress on a patch at all unless it is a big patch in an area that will be subject to movement. Would just coat the whole patch, slap some fibafuse over it and go from there! Then that area is stronger than the rock itself :yes:


If you don't prefill and let the mud set, at least partially, it will sag. Then your patch will stick out from the wall or ceiling. And double taping is a must with mesh tape.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

endo_alley said:


> If you don't prefill and let the mud set, at least partially, it will sag. Then your patch will stick out from the wall or ceiling. And double taping is a must with mesh tape.


I've patched holes 3 inch by 3 inch with ffuse and easysand 90 with no bulge!!:thumbup:


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

VANMAN said:


> I've patched holes 3 inch by 3 inch with ffuse and easysand 90 with no bulge!!:thumbup:


I understand that in many areas, the time well spent (10 minutes or so) prefilling the joints with quicksetting compound prior to taping is too much time. I live in a fairly "high rent" locale, where we are expected by most of (but interestingly not all of ) the general contractors to do high quality work. If not, we are called back to redo it on our own dime. I know that the economies of many other areas require you do the work no better than " Good 'nuff fer who's it's fer", in order to be awarded the work. That doesn't seem to fly with my clients.


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## MuddingSilly (Apr 8, 2015)

Mesh flats only and always use Durabond/EasySand. Paper on everything else.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

There is a way to get good angles with mesh and hot mud, we'll see if ice chimes in.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

fr8train said:


> There is a way to get good angles with mesh and hot mud, we'll see if ice chimes in.


 don't know where to start:thumbup: it seams to be the same issue over and over ...is that why 2 buck is gone?


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

icerock drywall said:


> don't know where to start it seams to be the same issue over and over ...is that why 2 buck is gone?


2buck is 2busy playing video games. Must be making 2much $$ since Jr got pinched.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I thought he won the loto


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