# Fixing Someone Elses Mess



## Paravain (Mar 25, 2014)

I am doing a small job at a golf country club which need to come out pristine, today I was asked to fix someone elses mess.

I need to make a whole new line as you see in the pic it need to go down a quarter inch or so.

The only thing I can think of doing across the 24' wall is to use no-coat and manipulate the corner.

Now I never messed with plaster, I am wondering how compound will hold up on plaster last thing I want is for it to start falling off in a year or 2.

Will I be ok with using compound over plaster?


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Good luck with that one!


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Paravain said:


> I am doing a small job at a golf country club which need to come out pristine, today I was asked to fix someone elses mess. I need to make a whole new line as you see in the pic it need to go down a quarter inch or so. The only thing I can think of doing across the 24' wall is to use no-coat and manipulate the corner. Now I never messed with plaster, I am wondering how compound will hold up on plaster last thing I want is for it to start falling off in a year or 2. Will I be ok with using compound over plaster?


Yes you can absolutely fix this with Dura bond. It's not as hard as you would think. Chip the surface up a bit into the original cement, just small chips with a hatchet. Mix of thick batch of hot mud. Then when you fill it up push the mud into the keys, then fill it up. Use a Darby or a piece of trim in the same spot as your level is and pulled down, walk away and wait for to set up. Then no coat on top of that.


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

Also use a chalk line to help keep the angle straight it will let you know what sides and how much to be coated ive fixed alot like that and always comes out straight


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Use a chalk line. Staple the edge of cardboard shim along the line to use as a guide for your blade. Pull off shim while mud is still soft.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Just tell him you will get to it when you get the chance :whistling2:


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## Paravain (Mar 25, 2014)

Magic said:


> Just tell him you will get to it when you get the chance :whistling2:


That sounds like what I want to say, or its the plasters mess let them fix it, its not there fault but why should they be able to walk away, same with the hangers 

I know when I fix that line its going to **** up another line, then their going to want that one fixed


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## Paravain (Mar 25, 2014)

endo_alley said:


> Use a chalk line. Staple the edge of cardboard shim along the line to use as a guide for your blade. Pull off shim while mud is still soft.


Thats not to bad of an idea just wondering if it will really work the wall is about 25' long


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## Paravain (Mar 25, 2014)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Yes you can absolutely fix this with Dura bond. It's not as hard as you would think. Chip the surface up a bit into the original cement, just small chips with a hatchet. Mix of thick batch of hot mud. Then when you fill it up push the mud into the keys, then fill it up. Use a Darby or a piece of trim in the same spot as your level is and pulled down, walk away and wait for to set up. Then no coat on top of that.


Cement? Its blue board and plaster


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Paravain said:


> I know when I fix that line its going to **** up another line, then their going to want that one fixed


Glad you have the foresight to see that. And if he is going to biotch about that, he will surely biotch about the fix looking "different". That is not a quick fix.
When you do run into that in the future get some magic corner. With it you will be able to "cheat" it that much by snapping your line lower to make your corners match up.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Call a plasterer. I'm sure there's a few in your area.


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## Paravain (Mar 25, 2014)

Magic said:


> Glad you have the foresight to see that. And if he is going to biotch about that, he will surely biotch about the fix looking "different". That is not a quick fix.
> When you do run into that in the future get some magic corner. With it you will be able to "cheat" it that much by snapping your line lower to make your corners match up.


Its not my work tho, I didnt touch it. I would of never passed any thing like that its going to be funny when they paint that its never going to look right


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## Paravain (Mar 25, 2014)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Call a plasterer. I'm sure there's a few in your area.


Lol I was just sent there, its not my job, its there problem but there trying to make it my problem and I know that it would be my problem if I did any thing to it


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

If you're going "into" the brown coat of plaster you have to apply a sealer or your Durabond is gonna fall right off. Sherwin Williams makes a product called Loxxon. You can brush, roll or spray it on. It solidifies the brown coat so you can apply Durabond or an all purpose compound.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

drywallninja said:


> If you're going "into" the brown coat of plaster you have to apply a sealer or your Durabond is gonna fall right off. Sherwin Williams makes a product called Loxxon. You can brush, roll or spray it on. It solidifies the brown coat so you can apply Durabond or an all purpose compound.


What do you mean by going "into" the brown coat??? If brown coat is coated and painted how do you go into it? Not being smart. Just trying to understand when we need to apply sealer before fixes.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

Magic said:


> What do you mean by going "into" the brown coat??? If brown coat is coated and painted how do you go into it? Not being smart. Just trying to understand when we need to apply sealer before fixes.


This sealer needs to be applied when the top coat, aka china coat is failing and peeling off. Then your left with exposed brown coat. It's sandy and kinda just crumbles away. This is when you apply the sealer. I usually will apply two thin coats. After the first coat of sealer is dry, you can take a large paint brush and brush away anything that didn't seal up and then put on a second coat of sealer. Then you're ready to lay down the Durabond.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Thanks for clarifying that for me. Lots of old failing plaster in my neck of the woods so I appreciate the tip!


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## Corey The Taper (Mar 18, 2014)

By brown coat do you mean basecoat? I know some plasterers use the basecoat on the nails and flats and corner then they put the finish coat which is white


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

Magic said:


> Thanks for clarifying that for me. Lots of old failing plaster in my neck of the woods so I appreciate the tip!


No problem, Magic!


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Parvain - in reply to your comment, Yes, it is especially the best way on long runs. You may want to make a few points along the way and snap shorter lines. Shims go on the side of the line not getting filled (obviously). If it is new rock going up, then certainly shim the wall or ceiling to in a conventional manner to straighten it as best as possible before hanging and taping. But since the rock is already installed and taped, you don't have that option. Another thing we might do is after you have the bad angle straightened out pretty good, retape it with straight flex over the durabond fill. Although it is not a fast process, It is the quickest way to work miracles on crooked angles.


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