# P/C power sander



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Today, PA and I were discussing renting a power sander to try out. We were wondering, what grit would be best. For instance, if you typically use 120 grit on a pole sander, would you step up to a finer grit say 200 because the power sander is spinning the disc, which is equivalent to more strokes with a pole, and therefore taking more mud off. Or, would you stay with the same grit?

There is a local place that rents one for $40/day, cheap enough to pick it up to try, then if we like it we'll think about getting one.

Thanks in advance


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Gday Fr8train
I use 220 grit on the pc works great. When I did sand by hand 15 years ago I used 120 grit. When you use the pc let it do the work DONT PUSH TO HARD. Also work with the direction of rotation, what I mean is when doing the top of a wall join work from right to left, and when doing the bottom work from left to right. After that do a single pass down the middle. I have heard of some guys not using the vac I cant see the point, being dust free is the best bit.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

It amazes me people still dont use a PC, I got a job today doing a new engineering workshop smoko room, office, toilet, storeroom etc, He asked me do i use a power sander and vacuum??? I said does your lathe run on a foot treadle???

220 on the PC or you will just chew it all away, kinda float it and dont push to hard or you will ruin it, It does actually quite some learning and skill, Sometimes a gentle pole sand after the PC helps smooth things out, That depends on how hard the mud is though. And a clean jobs a better job.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Yep, like Cazna said, it depends on how hard the mud is, on the likes of sheetrock total (a/p black lid) I use 180g and finish with a quick once over with a worn out 180g disc on the radius pole sander, only sand just enough and no more.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Thanks guys. We use light weight mud, which isn't bad to sand at all. A few swipes of the pole and move on. Just looking to speed things up a bit. If we can shave 2 hrs off a house, the P/C will pay for itself.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

fr8train said:


> Thanks guys. We use light weight mud, which isn't bad to sand at all. A few swipes of the pole and move on. Just looking to speed things up a bit. If we can shave 2 hrs off a house, the P/C will pay for itself.


Watch out on the lightweight mud, you might be beating your head against the wall trying to power sand that.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

wnybassman said:


> Watch out on the lightweight mud, you might be beating your head against the wall trying to power sand that.


Yeah, I took a 6" Festool RO150 hooked up to a vacuum for a run in a lady's house because I wanted to see if I could avoid making a tent in the middle of her house. It ate the mud pretty darn fast even on the lowest setting, and it wasn't completely dust free. So.......tent it was


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

fr8train said:


> Today, PA and I were discussing renting a power sander to try out. We were wondering, what grit would be best. For instance, if you typically use 120 grit on a pole sander, would you step up to a finer grit say 200 because the power sander is spinning the disc, which is equivalent to more strokes with a pole, and therefore taking more mud off. Or, would you stay with the same grit?
> 
> There is a local place that rents one for $40/day, cheap enough to pick it up to try, then if we like it we'll think about getting one.
> 
> Thanks in advance


 I use 150 disks all the time! Norton i think they r! Best i have tried but bit harder on the pocket. Plus 3 is the filler i use 2! 1 disk can do a couple of houses:thumbsup:


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## Scott_w (Jun 16, 2010)

Usually 150 or 220 depends. I bought mine used (almost brand new) off another remodelling forum. I got the sander and vac for $400. The guy only ever used the vac.

I posted a message looking for one and got about 5 replies. Lots of remodellers buy these and find out they don't use them much and end up selling them. 

I still like the hand sand to finish.

scott


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

fr8train said:


> Today, PA and I were discussing renting a power sander to try out. We were wondering, what grit would be best. For instance, if you typically use 120 grit on a pole sander, would you step up to a finer grit say 200 because the power sander is spinning the disc, which is equivalent to more strokes with a pole, and therefore taking more mud off. Or, would you stay with the same grit?
> 
> There is a local place that rents one for $40/day, cheap enough to pick it up to try, then if we like it we'll think about getting one.
> 
> Thanks in advance


 I only use 220 grit and high speed. just do not over work the sander and keep it moving, when you start start on the raw sheetrock then move onto the seams, don't take much . I do not like the Velcro pads they do not last and seem to leave scratches. You can get more than 2 homes out of them if you don't snag it on something like an outlet wire or window jamb easy to go 400 sheets worth the $7.00 for the pad.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> I only use 220 grit and high speed. just do not over work the sander and keep it moving, when you start start on the raw sheetrock then move onto the seams, don't take much . I do not like the Velcro pads they do not last and seem to leave scratches. You can get more than 2 homes out of them if you don't snag it on something like an outlet wire or window jamb easy to go 400 sheets worth the $7.00 for the pad.


 
What other option is there other than the velco pads silver??? Your right, I would do about 6, 220g dics per average house and yes the scratches can be a hassel, That depends on how the sander is run and softness of mud.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> What other option is there other than the velco pads silver??? Your right, I would do about 6, 220g dics per average house and yes the scratches can be a hassel, That depends on how the sander is run and softness of mud.


 I only by those that are porter cable. they are foam backed and held on with the same foam retainer and threaded flat nut I will call it for now. I don't really know how to explain it but the other foam pads I have use also seem to leave scratches even with 220 grit they always seem to aggressive.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

I've had to go to the Johnson screens on the 7800 a little over a year ago. For 12+ years we did absolutely great with the standard PC pads (generally 150 grit) but all of a sudden those pads were not working for us anymore. We get about through a single room and they start buffing rather than sanding. Seams end up VERY shiny and flashing around screws/edges were not getting sanded out nicely. Always have used Sheetrock green lid, and still do. I called Sheetrock, they insist they have not changed the formula. We have not changed what we do as far as finishing. The screens seemed to have answered this problem, but they do have their own problems, although not as bad as not sanding at all.

I would love to figure out what this problem is/was.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

silverstilts said:


> I only by those that are porter cable. they are foam backed and held on with the same foam retainer and threaded flat nut I will call it for now. I don't really know how to explain it but the other foam pads I have use also seem to leave scratches even with 220 grit they always seem to aggressive.


 
Well thats interesting, I have a flex giraffe, Its the same set up, So what your saying is the porter cable foam pad does not seem to scrtach as bad as others??


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> Well thats interesting, I have a flex giraffe, Its the same set up, So what your saying is the porter cable foam pad does not seem to scrtach as bad as others??


 I have never seen a flex giraffe up close only pics, they look generic and not built very well don't know and can't honestly say but perhaps some of the quality of sanding may be the sander itself. Nothing personal. Of course if you get your hands on some different foam pads and see if it makes a difference.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> It amazes me people still dont use a PC,


I will take you up on the challenge of this question cazna, but I'm going to piss some guys off, So I may as while do it right off the bat.

Everyone talks hand vs machine taper, but there's one other term that I did not make up, and it's called the "PRODUCTION TAPER"

To try and define a production taper ???????? well yes he's going to have all the toys, but odds are they are a dedicated full time taper working in a urban setting. Most likely contracting or sub-contracting large jobs and running crews, or taking on a house every single week. weather a lone taper or crew, they are gunning out a minimum of 5,000 sq ft to over 20,000 sq in one work week.

Now, I understand it's to each his own, some guys do it all on this site, or they tape and paint, or they have a particular market or niche they fulfill.

But some of the comments I have seen on this site about the PC, do not fill the needs of a production taper,,,,,, like

It keeps the job clean, a PT gets x amount a foot, they don't clean

It sands the hotmud so easy, skipping the UK, aussie and kiwi land ( your weather thing) odds are, if your a PT, hotmud don't sit well with machines (lets say not going there with the hotmud debate)

It's easier ,,,,, are wheel chairs next ?????? work is work.

Bottom line is do they increase production....... period 

Now I will give anything a try once, and me and 2bjr were talking about renting one to see what their all about. And I have searched the web to find TESTIMONIALS on how much they increased production for guys.

So I would like to hear some testimonials from guys who consider them selves to be production tapers, how much TIME did it take off for them, not , it's easier and I keep so clean and the home owner loves me [email protected]

And to be honest, this is the worst site to sell someone on the Pc, I found more information on other sites, though most seemed to be home renovators or home owners. No one in any of the companies where I work uses a PC. The dude at our supply store will not stock them, for he says they will not sell. I'm with a new DWC, I said to the big boss I was going to rent a PC to try out in a house one day, he gave me this look , then walked away from me laughing, saying some days your so funny (2buck)

So sell me on why their good, what percentage of extra money will they net me. I think it's a no brainer that a bazooka, boxes or angle tools will triple your money, and anyone who says they won't should not be on this site IMO, and that's the meanest ill get on here.

Testimonials............!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Oh, and when I do try one one day, It will have no vacuum being dragged around behind me. I can envision the vacuum being tossed out the window real fast with my Irish temper:furious:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I was thinking about the vac yesterday/today. Perhaps one of the ways it would save a production taper some time is on clean up. I don't know if you and Jr. have to scrape and sweep the house out when you are done. If not, it probably wouldn't pay you to get one. However, IF you do have to sweep out, it is potentially a LOT less dust to sweep out. Now if you drop mud all over the place like me.... LOL. What can I say, I was spoiled at the plant, all the floors were covered w/ paper. 

If you still pick up side work from time to time, it might come in to play there. I just can't see why P/C charges so much for what IMO is a $100 tops shop vac w/ a remote switch on it.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

:thumbup: Nice, I thought i would have got a rise out of you 2buck, Good points you make though. In your PT world well i guess there is no more money to be gained with a PC, There, i said it.

The difference in time i guess for you would be minimal, You dont have to clean up, And yes dragging that F,ing vacuum around is a curse.

For me i got the PC years ago when i was hand taping and the mud was hard to sand so the PC was a god send so its habit.
Kitchens are sometimes installed and other trades are wanting to do there thing on houses here, Your often working around them so dust controls important, same as a reno, But in your case its different so i get your point.

If someone is great on the machine tools and understand all thats going on then they get things very flat and edge free, Your pics in the finished drywall thread sure proves you get critical light to deal with and to be honest, if i could just swipe the hand sander about and have it finished to a point im happy with then i would, Its still a strain swinging a pc, but its a slower movement than hand sanding so your not hammering yourself so much, That link you put up with jnr hand sanding looked like 3 times the effort hand sanding in jerky short movements, over slowly and casually passing a PC over it. I know which movement tires you out and leaves you sore in bed the next morn, and its not the PC.

I think the Capt once said, How your work is doesnt count, Its the sanding that matters so i guess some would just get it on the walls and then tidy it back with a sander, So which is more time consuming?? Slap it on and pc it off, Or take more time get the mud nice so its an easy hand sand?? Your a hand sander arnt you moore?? You have the tidest hand work prob of all of us, Whats you opinion of sanding??


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> I will take you up on the challenge of this question cazna, but I'm going to piss some guys off, So I may as while do it right off the bat.
> 
> Everyone talks hand vs machine taper, but there's one other term that I did not make up, and it's called the "PRODUCTION TAPER"
> 
> ...


Of course they increase production just ask anyone that only sands and see how many sheets a day they can finish, of course there is not any strictly sanders on this forum and that topic is opening up a whole new can of worms. As far as throwing out the vac. well I don't think I would want to be in on the same job as you when you do this , it will throw more dust around than you can imagine. Those that use the power sanders will testify to this when their hose comes apart. And why would you want to make any unnecessary mess when it can be avoided? As far as the GC laughing at you for the mention of using a sander , really non of his business telling you how to do your finishing work. Does he tell you not to run the other tools as well? Kinda like someone out of the blue telling you a trowel is better than a knife or vice verse they are only personal opinions. I have GC's that insist to use the vacuum sander even on small jobs to help keep the dust down.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I will take you up on the challenge of this question cazna, but I'm going to piss some guys off, So I may as while do it right off the bat.
> 
> Everyone talks hand vs machine taper, but there's one other term that I did not make up, and it's called the "PRODUCTION TAPER"
> 
> To try and define a production taper ???????? well yes he's going to have all the toys, but odds are they are a dedicated full time taper working in a urban setting. Most likely contracting or sub-contracting large jobs and running crews, or taking on a house every single week. weather a lone taper or crew, they are gunning out a minimum of 5,000 sq ft to over 20,000 sq in one work week.


To make a discussion/debate make sense, defining terms is a good place to start. On your "PRODUCTION TAPER":

I can see there being at least 2 kinds on this forum. 1 is NEW construction production taper, and 1 is RENO construction production taper. At least that's my thoughts about it, at this time.

I've used a PC in both situations. Not a lot, but some. 1st time was a reno, in an operating bank, where we did after hours night work. No polying and cleaning up needed when I used the PC. 10'/11' high bulkheads and tear away fast mask could be done from the ground, while squeezing past desks and the like. A little more complete finish sanding in some spots was done with a vac hand and vac pole sander, with just a bit of hand sponging in spots - not enough that it created enough dust to really worry about.

As for NEW construction, I haven't used it much yet on our commercial work. I coat things pretty tight, there's few ceilings - at least usually not enough at one time that I worry too much about them - and sanding is more about 'shaping' the little that needs to come off (I try to let heavy coaters sand their own work).

But I did use the PC on the couple houses I did. Quickly ran it down the flats (with no vac, but staying ahead of the dust cloud some) to knock them back a bit, before finishing with a pole sander. That saved me time and effort, especially for the ceilings, one of which got painted.

To me, a PC seems to have a place, in certain situations, even just to help save on shoulder wear. As I get used to running it more, I could see where the places I might use it, and amount I'd use it, could expand some.

But having said all that, it might not be a tool for some. It does take getting used to, so some patience is needed. And there's some who just don't seem to have it in them to run some tools well, or well enough.
And then there's some whose work could be consistently clean enough and tight enough, and their situation such that they don't have to be concerned about things like dust. And their bodies are (still) healthy enough.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

2buck, Maybe Capt will read this also and add to what I say, I,ve used a PC since 96/97 and once you master it like the Zooka, you,ll kick yourself for being stubborn. Granted , a small learning curve is needed, maybe even a seasoned or veteran sander showing you some easy pointers. Not being able to see your work in person its hard to tell you what grit to use, I personally use 150 and get 1/2 a house per disk , so 2 per house[my time is worth more than trying to save $1.50 piece of sand paper]I run the sander across the seams in a back and forth motion over lapping slightly at a constant speed ,never with the seam[my method] and tight into the angle, and with your fasteners in a up and down motion on walls and with them on ceiling. Dont use the original disk with hole in middle, get the one with hook and loop paper!!!!! A must. Next job I,ll try to post short video, could be a week or 2.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I use my fingertips .. Really It works!! 

My wife has no skin left on her a$$


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

moore said:


> I use my fingertips .. Really It works!!
> 
> My wife has no skin left on her a$$


I hear ya, after a day of taping my wife wont let me touch her boobs---


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

sanding pads ....Thanks for the compliment Canza..coming from you that's as good as an award ..:thumbsup: I have a 360 but DO NOT LIKE IT...Really don't see what the fuss is about with the 360 head .I've had one for 2 years ,and have yet to find a place for it..


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## bbguys (Sep 19, 2010)

*Your Crazy Not To Have One*

Here's my recent time study with the porta cable 7800 vac w/ 150 grit sandpaper: First sand, 136 sheets 2 hrs start to finish. Two story 8' ceilings with off angles in every room on the second story. Final sand was 4 hrs with same pad. Could have been faster but hate switching to a new pad on final sand. Corners took half hour to hit with sanding sponge to finish. Can you do that with a dummy stick and stay dustless? NOPE.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

bbguys said:


> Here's my recent time study with the porta cable 7800 vac w/ 150 grit sandpaper: First sand, 136 sheets 2 hrs start to finish. Two story 8' ceilings with off angles in every room on the second story. Final sand was 4 hrs with same pad. Could have been faster but hate switching to a new pad on final sand. Corners took half hour to hit with sanding sponge to finish. Can you do that with a dummy stick and stay dustless? NOPE.


Do you use a Roto zip when hanging rock??. my reason for asking is this ...
The dust I leave on sand day Is 1/3 of what the hangers leave behind .
but then my seams/butts and bead take little sanding ..the bulk of my sanding are the angles
A home I finished back in July the havc man had to replace the coils in the air handler because of the floor sanders [ac wont on when I was there I'm a taper no one spoils me] The floor guys should of had the sense to turn it off while sanding . MY POINT..No job is dust free !!! me owning a PC only helps me [my lungs] when they make a vac to hook to the roto-zip ..I'll buy It!!!


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## gotmud (Mar 21, 2011)

moore said:


> sanding pads ....Thanks for the compliment Canza..coming from you that's as good as an award ..:thumbsup: I have a 360 but DO NOT LIKE IT...Really don't see what the fuss is about with the 360 head .I've had one for 2 years ,and have yet to find a place for it..


I'm right there with you Moore, I do not own a 360 but used a fellow taper friends. I was not impressed at all.
However I rent the pc sander from my local supplier on all my bigger jobs and love it.
By the way Wall Tools has the 7800 on sale right now for I think under $800 with freebies, that is the best price I have seen. :thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

gotmud said:


> By the way Wall Tools has the 7800 on sale right now for I think under $800 with freebies, that is the best price I have seen. :thumbsup:


$780.00: http://www.walltools.com/store/porter-cable-7800-drywall-sander-7812-drywall-vacuum-freebies-1.html

Sander alone - 460.00: http://www.walltools.com/store/porter-cable-7800-drywall-sander-with-dust-collection-ptc-7801.html

A comment on there: _The large diameter 1-1/4" vacuum hose is 13' long so that large areas can be sanded in one set up; though it's not required_


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## bbguys (Sep 19, 2010)

moore said:


> Do you use a Roto zip when hanging rock??. my reason for asking is this ...
> The dust I leave on sand day Is 1/3 of what the hangers leave behind .
> but then my seams/butts and bead take little sanding ..the bulk of my sanding are the angles
> A home I finished back in July the havc man had to replace the coils in the air handler because of the floor sanders [ac wont on when I was there I'm a taper no one spoils me] The floor guys should of had the sense to turn it off while sanding . MY POINT..No job is dust free !!! me owning a PC only helps me [my lungs] when they make a vac to hook to the roto-zip ..I'll buy It!!!


Of course I use a roto zip. Roto zip or drywall saw? Porta cable sander or idiot stick?
Who's the idiot? Buy one.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

bbguys said:


> Of course I use a roto zip. Roto zip or drywall saw? Porta cable sander or idiot stick?
> Who's the idiot? Buy one.


I think you missed my point bb .


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Moore,dont take this wrong--- I.ve done drywall since 1978 , didn,t start using mechanical tools until about 1995, and PC sander until 1997. I also use a roto-zip[since 78] You can be as proud as you want about your work and amount of dust,but bottom line is---- when you increase productivity and save yourself time, you add time to your schedule so to add more work. Todays market doesnt call for that for some right now, but when things change and you can add 2 or 3 jobs [or more] to your schedule a year thats more in your pocket--- same time spent a year working, but more money made----been there done that!!!!! In good times we were doing 2 houses a month- insatll and finish and prime, when you hang 600 brds a month or more and you dont use a rotozip cause you dont like dust---"come on man" we all hate dust


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

I think the power sanders are a tool designed for big DWC or remodels. When the big boys get a job around here they send the power sand guys in to clean up the work,different guys doing the sanding than finishing. I personally have never used or had one on my jobs so cant really give good input other than I dont have or use one. 360 sanders with 240 and the lil trimtech angle sanding sponges is all we use. We use a rectangle head sander for angles only (before we pump) we use lightweight muds so the pc would trash the walls. Not much dust with my method. It all depends on work prior to sanding.... Ive seen some work I would take a belt sander to ,if your tool guys are leaving a mess to sand then a pc might be a good choice if you are the sand guy


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

chris said:


> we use lightweight muds so the pc would trash the walls. Not much dust with my method. It all depends on work prior to sanding...


That is pretty much what we are afraid of, since our corners are only 3" wide(4" if we have to do it by hand), there is really no reason to after it w/ a 9" sander. We try to keep the bare minimum of the sandpaper on bare drywall to keep from burning the paper. Would like to try it on a seam though. Also, we normally 10-12 the seams, but the last house we 8-10 them. Turned out great, and MINIMAL sanding with the pole on the seams.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

chris said:


> I think the power sanders are a tool designed for big DWC or remodels. When the big boys get a job around here they send the power sand guys in to clean up the work,different guys doing the sanding than finishing. I personally have never used or had one on my jobs so cant really give good input other than I dont have or use one.


A thought: You could maybe try tracking down one of the power sand guys and have him do something for you that you might feel comfortable with, like a garage &/or basement. That might give you a bit of an idea as to whether a PC might be something worth buying and learning to use.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I had a call from a friend that wanted a cpl houses sanded. His "sanders" layed out drunk till he fired em. One was 250 brds, the other was just over 300. The first house was 28 miles in one direction and the other was 70 miles in the other. I got my helper and we sanded both of them out and was back at the house by 4 pm. thats 550 brds at 1.50, or $825.00 for less than 7 hrs work. 

Say what ya want to about tools,,, power tools make you money,,, hard to hand tape and make that in one day.

About the issue of the quality???? thats any tool, even hand running corners with a 4" knife.

Another thing to consider, IF your using angleheads,,, you can skip the sponge in the corner thing.(remember,,, they don't leave any trash in the corner). All you have to sponge is abit on the the three-way and around some boxes.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

chris said:


> I think the power sanders are a tool designed for big DWC or remodels. When the big boys get a job around here they send the power sand guys in to clean up the work,different guys doing the sanding than finishing. I personally have never used or had one on my jobs so cant really give good input other than I dont have or use one. 360 sanders with 240 and the lil trimtech angle sanding sponges is all we use. We use a rectangle head sander for angles only (before we pump) we use lightweight muds so the pc would trash the walls. Not much dust with my method. It all depends on work prior to sanding.... Ive seen some work I would take a belt sander to ,if your tool guys are leaving a mess to sand then a pc might be a good choice if you are the sand guy


 Wrong the sander is not just for the big boys and no they will not trash using on lightweight mud when used correctly.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I had a call from a friend that wanted a cpl houses sanded. His "sanders" layed out drunk till he fired em. One was 250 brds, the other was just over 300. The first house was 28 miles in one direction and the other was 70 miles in the other. I got my helper and we sanded both of them out and was back at the house by 4 pm. thats 550 brds at 1.50, or $825.00 for less than 7 hrs work.
> 
> Say what ya want to about tools,,, power tools make you money,,, hard to hand tape and make that in one day.
> 
> ...


gotta call BS on that one:yes:550 sheets cmon cap .W hat time you start 1o am. Is there a rate for sanding in ur neck, do they pay you before or after work has been checked. If there were a need for just sanders and an actual rate for sanding a pc would be the tool to have


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

chris said:


> gotta call BS on that one:yes:550 sheets cmon cap .W hat time you start 1o am. Is there a rate for sanding in ur neck, do they pay you before or after work has been checked. If there were a need for just sanders and an actual rate for sanding a pc would be the tool to have


 I would not call that BS that is what the sander is all about. Especially with 2 one to do the detailed sanding it is easy to do. Done it many times no BS.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

Certainly just not for the big boys. We usually break out the 7800 just for a bathroom or kitchen job.

I must add as well, that we don't run tools. All hand finishing. I'm sure that's a big reason why we favor the power sander. I've never even seen any jobs that tools have been run on to see the difference of finish.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Moore and Chris----2 of us would sand a house out with PC, clean angles with sponge block , mask off .and spray/backroll usually in about 9-10 hrs---go back next day/ pole sand primer/ shoot ceilings and clean-up job by noon and take tools to next job. That is absolutely not any BS----- I hand finished for years ,and some small jobs--35-50 sheets/I still do and the PC 7800 cant be beat... unless you have one and do it dont call some one a Bullsh$$er,, it only makes you guys look the part of a fool !!!!!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I have nothing against the PC dsjohn .I WANT ONE! 
My point Is ,,,,Why Is so many anal [in new construction] about the sanding dust ? The roto-zip Is not dustless all the trades before me are not dustless ..I know I clean up there mess on sand day .

I sub out 80% of my hanging they all use roto-zips ,,They have to .
I know how fast and tight they cut, I have no beef with the roto-zip ,,,well maybe 1 beef ..cut wires I only know one hanging crew In this area that takes the time to use the tool right. He's a d/c been a hanger/finisher for 30 years He's the first one I call If I have to I beg I will,,If hes tied up I have to call the other guy,,,witch means going Into the home before the rock is staged push all the wires back in the box .Mark all the receptacles on the floor ,,so I can find one If they cover It. .........Oh hell don't get me started on the hangers around here Pitiful really ..100 hangers In central VA. ,,,and they all have issues [did I go off topic]... No tools ,no ins,no ride,can I get a draw means my bag Is empty ,,Don't recall calling anyone a bulls!!ter.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

chris said:


> gotta call BS on that one:yes:550 sheets cmon cap .W hat time you start 1o am. Is there a rate for sanding in ur neck, do they pay you before or after work has been checked. If there were a need for just sanders and an actual rate for sanding a pc would be the tool to have


 
Yes there is a rate for sanding here,,, its $1.50/brd. Sand, scrape the floor and sweep up.

They pay me when I turn in the bill, cause they know me and trust my work. One reason they trust my work is cause IF they have a problem with it, I come back and fix it, at MY exspense.

The PC is the tool to have IF you want to sand fast!!! :thumbsup:

Really tho, with two guys running PC's, you can sand more rock than the law allows !!!

I try to be on the job at 7 am and back at home by 3 pm,, so yeah,,, that was a LATE day for me. But then again, I did have to drive a bunch that time.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

chris said:


> I think the power sanders are a tool designed for big DWC or remodels. When the big boys get a job around here they send the power sand guys in to clean up the work,different guys doing the sanding than finishing. I personally have never used or had one on my jobs so cant really give good input other than I dont have or use one. 360 sanders with 240 and the lil trimtech angle sanding sponges is all we use. We use a rectangle head sander for angles only (before we pump) we use lightweight muds so the pc would trash the walls. Not much dust with my method. It all depends on work prior to sanding.... Ive seen some work I would take a belt sander to ,if your tool guys are leaving a mess to sand then a pc might be a good choice if you are the sand guy


Chris, this post shows that you have already made your mind up about power tools.

Nothing wrong with doing it your way.
Nothing wrong with me doing it my way.

Two differant methods. 
1) pretty and slow
2) fast and profitable


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

''Another thing to consider, IF your using angleheads,,, you can skip the sponge in the corner thing.(remember,,, they don't leave any trash in the corner). All you have to sponge is abit on the the three-way and around some boxes.''




I hear ya Capt LOL.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Yes there is a rate for sanding here,,, its $1.50/brd. Sand, scrape the floor and sweep up.
> 
> They pay me when I turn in the bill, cause they know me and trust my work. One reason they trust my work is cause IF they have a problem with it, I come back and fix it, at MY exspense.
> 
> ...


 I stand corrected,might have to give PC a fair shot. Havnt had to do too much sanding for a while and sometimes forget how much work it really is. Im real picky about sanding ( bad pads, drags,goin over boxes,hitchikers,etc.) and dont want it tooup the walls. Do they make superfine grit. How about one with a small halogen on end like a house vacuum:yes:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

chris said:


> I stand corrected,might have to give PC a fair shot. Havnt had to do too much sanding for a while and sometimes forget how much work it really is. Im real picky about sanding ( bad pads, drags,goin over boxes,hitchikers,etc.) and dont want it tooup the walls. Do they make superfine grit. How about one with a small halogen on end like a house vacuum:yes:


Sure, they make the screens up into the 300's, but I never use anything over a 150 screen(Johnson Abrasives), cause you don't need to. F'ing up the walls happens when the guy running the PC ain't paying attention.

Interesting statement,,,"I'm really picky about sanding",,, that in itself shows that you have a grudge against power tools and think they are just a way to speed up and SCREW somebody. They aren't, they are just another power tool that will make your life easier, if you give them a chance and are willing to spend abit of time to learn how to use them.

let me end this post by saying,,,,, "I am REALLY picky about sanding,,,,, thats why I have three PC's"

Peace bro


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

JustMe said:


> $780.00: http://www.walltools.com/store/porter-cable-7800-drywall-sander-7812-drywall-vacuum-freebies-1.html
> 
> Sander alone - 460.00: http://www.walltools.com/store/porter-cable-7800-drywall-sander-with-dust-collection-ptc-7801.html
> 
> A comment on there: _The large diameter 1-1/4" vacuum hose is 13' long so that large areas can be sanded in one set up; though it's not required_


Would we still get a 10% discount for being a DWT member:whistling2:

Or would they say no,b/c it's on sale:furious:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Would we still get a 10% discount for being a DWT member:whistling2:
> 
> Or would they say no,b/c it's on sale:furious:


The sander alone, at 460.00, looks to be regularly priced.

As for sale items, maybe, maybe not. Brandon would probably be the best one to ask. If they couldn't do 10%, maybe they could go a few points, at least on some things. It would be a help, with us Canadians having to pay things like brokerage fees and extra shipping costs for items from the U.S.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

I've bought a few sale items and still got the 10% discount


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

moore said:


> I have nothing against the PC dsjohn .I WANT ONE!
> My point Is ,,,,Why Is so many anal [in new construction] about the sanding dust ? The roto-zip Is not dustless all the trades before me are not dustless ..I know I clean up there mess on sand day .
> 
> I sub out 80% of my hanging they all use roto-zips ,,They have to .
> I know how fast and tight they cut, I have no beef with the roto-zip ,,,well maybe 1 beef ..cut wires I only know one hanging crew In this area that takes the time to use the tool right. He's a d/c been a hanger/finisher for 30 years He's the first one I call If I have to I beg I will,,If hes tied up I have to call the other guy,,,witch means going Into the home before the rock is staged push all the wires back in the box .Mark all the receptacles on the floor ,,so I can find one If they cover It. .........Oh hell don't get me started on the hangers around here Pitiful really ..100 hangers In central VA. ,,,and they all have issues [did I go off topic]... No tools ,no ins,no ride,can I get a draw means my bag Is empty ,,Don't recall calling anyone a bulls!!ter.


 With me its not about the dust using a power sander its the lack of effort u need 2 put into the sanding:thumbup: My worker still does all the angles and nails with the silly stick as i prefer doing that way Some might not agree with this but i only use it for the flats and externals!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

VANMAN said:


> With me its not about the dust using a power sander its the lack of effort u need 2 put into the sanding:thumbup: My worker still does all the angles and nails with the silly stick as i prefer doing that way Some might not agree with this but i only use it for the flats and externals!!


Vanman,,,, Something to consider????

If your still spotting your screws with a 4" twice and a 6" on final, then you are leaveing a small amount of mud. Hard to sand with a pc without effecting the paper.

If you switch to the final coat with an 8" (perish the thought) the pc will barely touch the paper at all...

Just a thought,,,, Peace


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## Chuck T (Oct 19, 2011)

I have used the p/c sander for several years in several different applications. New construction, remodels, cleanup of ceiling after scrapping popcorn. The sander worked great with very little dust escaping.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Vanman,,,, Something to consider????
> 
> If your still spotting your screws with a 4" twice and a 6" on final, then you are leaveing a small amount of mud. Hard to sand with a pc without effecting the paper.
> 
> ...


 No thanks Capt as long as have my buddy on the silly stick he can keep it lit:whistling2:
I first coat them by hand then 2 inch spotter that does for me:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Here is my sanders, See that small festool, I used one of those for years, Many guys here do, Put a foam pad on it and they kinda float and you just gently guide it about, It still gets 95% of the dust.

That Festool vac is great, Had it for years, And all the fittings to clean up the mess when done.

The Flex just allows greater reach and covers bigger areas faster.


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## robert seke (Feb 5, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Today, PA and I were discussing renting a power sander to try out. We were wondering, what grit would be best. For instance, if you typically use 120 grit on a pole sander, would you step up to a finer grit say 200 because the power sander is spinning the disc, which is equivalent to more strokes with a pole, and therefore taking more mud off. Or, would you stay with the same grit?
> 
> There is a local place that rents one for $40/day, cheap enough to pick it up to try, then if we like it we'll think about getting one.
> 
> Thanks in advance


Try some Joest 220 and 320 for the P/C. It works like a dream....I think you can get some from Smoothway Abrasives in Cali. 661-709-9072.. All-Wall may even carry it.:thumbup:


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Bought a PC sander today and used it on a small basement and I'm kicking myself for not getting one sooner. The whole time I was using it I was thinking i was going to be sponge sanding forever, then when i brought out the light and sponge I was amazed it just needed some light sanding in some spots. I can see that with some practice this is going to be a great tool


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## MTLtaper (Nov 19, 2011)

take me about 4-5 hr to sand 20000 ft (only pc) whit sia 120 grid in condo (150 grid in house) on a mod pad ! never ever had a call back
wow you guy's sand finish whit some 220!!!


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

MTLtaper said:


> take me about 4-5 hr to sand 20000 ft (only pc) whit sia 120 grid in condo (150 grid in house) on a mod pad ! never ever had a call back
> wow you guy's sand finish whit some 220!!!


 The 220 goes just as fast (unless it is some rough finish work) and leaves a much nicer finish.


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Went to Home depot yesterday and when I was looking around the rental centre and there sitting in the corner was the broken PC sander with the vac they told me last week was gone, all they new about it was that it quit working and the short vac hose on the head was missing. I got them to sell it to me with the vac that works for $100. I took it apart when I got home and all it needs is a new speed control and the hose, under $50 at wall tools, I will probably replace the brushes while I'm at it and anything else that looks worn.
Sucks that I just dropped $600 on a new sander a couple days ago but at least I've got the vac now which is sweet, it will be a lot easier to tug around than my big ridgid and the auto on feature is nice.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

robert seke said:


> Try some Joest 220 and 320 for the P/C. It works like a dream....I think you can get some from Smoothway Abrasives in Cali. 661-709-9072.. All-Wall may even carry it.:thumbup:


 Try some 120 from all-wall(johnson abrasive) leaves it just as smooth as 220.......

Its the machine,,,not the grit !!!!!!


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