# long runs of soffit bead help



## gluedandscrewed (Jan 10, 2014)

Long runs of corner bead always give issues when I have 2 pieces of bead butting eachother. I typically crimp and nail off my metal beads every 6 inches and clip corners on the butt pieces (not 45 , just the corner of the tab) . I usually mess around enough with it to make it look OK but I feel like iam missing something. **** boughtall metal bead and iam wondering if there is any tricks to make those butt pieces go better? Any help would be appreciated.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Back when I was at the mod plant, they would put a small piece of scrap metal behind where the two pieces would butt together.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Miter the bead like a V at the end on first piece ya tack on, then 45 the end on the piece your attaching to it.
Or you can use a 3" piece of scrap bead and place under intersecting beads, I prefer V'ing myself


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Philma Crevices said:


> Miter the bead like a V at the end on first piece ya tack on, then 45 the end on the piece your attaching to it.
> Or you can use a 3" piece of scrap bead and place under intersecting beads, I prefer V'ing myself


That's cool.. I never seen the V'ing bead splice before.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

When butting metal bead together I used to use a 6 foot magnetic level.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

I cut my 3" piece with a V on each end to keep ends from sucking up. Then its just by feel as i staple the bead off with half inch air staples. 1/2" staples because I dont want to staple into the stud that may shrink as it dries. Much like paperfaced bead.


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## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

On wood studs I'll cut a V and nail the corners. On metal I just crimp, if u use a small splice piece it will put a hump in the bead. On long visible runs I'll snap a line on it to keep it nice and straight.


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## gluedandscrewed (Jan 10, 2014)

Thanks guys. I was contemplating getting a roll of strait flex but I will the v technique. Kinda just taught myself how to do finishing by trial an error. Apparently I taught myself wrong. I will snap so me pics when I get around to it. 

Soffit out the wazoo on this basement iam finishing.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

moore said:


> That's cool.. I never seen the V'ing bead splice before.


I was thinking of you today <3


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## bad mudder (Aug 2, 2014)

*paper brad with metal inside*



gluedandscrewed said:


> Long runs of corner bead always give issues when I have 2 pieces of bead butting eachother. I typically crimp and nail off my metal beads every 6 inches and clip corners on the butt pieces (not 45 , just the corner of the tab) . I usually mess around enough with it to make it look OK but I feel like iam missing something. **** boughtall metal bead and iam wondering if there is any tricks to make those butt pieces go better? Any help would be appreciated.


here up north we use beads with paper. no need for clinchers or nail. works well. but in the 70s metal beads we put a little piece inside where they both meet and keep the clincher away about a foot from it. tack with nails and play with it a little and good luck:thumbsup:


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## bad mudder (Aug 2, 2014)

*i just seen the pic.*

:thumbsup:


bad mudder said:


> here up north we use beads with paper. no need for clinchers or nail. works well. but in the 70s metal beads we put a little piece inside where they both meet and keep the clincher away about a foot from it. tack with nails and play with it a little and good luck:thumbsup:


another way is cut both sides in a slight angle and nail in between the two. hold both side at the same time that works well to


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## nodnarb (Apr 25, 2014)

In Tx the hangars put on the bead. It is almost invariably quicksilver. We often use the 45 with a notch cut in the neighboring piece, another way that seems to work is cut two sharp 45's and face them towards eachother like this >< makes a nice strait edge. On longer stretches we use line lasers but on shorter ones we just pop a line.


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