# What to fill USG veneer with?



## Swconst (Mar 19, 2014)

I can't find a straight answer to this...I have a house with 2 year old walls with diamond veneer plaster on them. From settlement there are a couple 1/8" cracks and in another spot because of lumber twist the ceiling separated from the wall. What do you fill/patch diamond veneer plaster with? I've been told it will not stick to itself so don't bother. So what is the best product to use...


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Swconst said:


> I can't find a straight answer to this...I have a house with 2 year old walls with diamond veneer plaster on them. From settlement there are a couple 1/8" cracks and in another spot because of lumber twist the ceiling separated from the wall. What do you fill/patch diamond veneer plaster with? I've been told it will not stick to itself so don't bother. So what is the best product to use...


Durabond.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

I'd use the same product originally used.

http://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/e...veneerfinishanddiamondveneerfinishsanded.html


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

MrWillys said:


> I'd use the same product originally used. http://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/products-solutions/products/finishes/plasters/diamondveneerfinishanddiamondveneerfinishsanded.html


For an 1/8" crack? Lime and a hot gauge is stronger then this.


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## Swconst (Mar 19, 2014)

See this is what I mean...3 different answers already. 
First, I'm not a plaster/drywall guy nor do I want to be...I hate it. So the lime hot gauge thing is over my head
Joint compound vs plaster...I guess that's the real question. What's going to stick better, what's more crack resistant, what's easier...that sort of thing.
Thanks for the suggestions so far tho


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Swconst said:


> See this is what I mean...3 different answers already. First, I'm not a plaster/drywall guy nor do I want to be...I hate it. So the lime hot gauge thing is over my head Joint compound vs plaster...I guess that's the real question. What's going to stick better, what's more crack resistant, what's easier...that sort of thing. Thanks for the suggestions so far tho


Durabond is perfect for this situation.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

If you're not going to use a like material, and expect continued movement then use an elastomeric caulk for better expansion and contraction. It will appear different like Durabond, but more forgiving. Cracking occurs for 2 reasons. Improper mixture, and or movement.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I've done a ton of plaster repairs ..Mostly over the older plaster ..I've always just used hot mud..Any brand! Any set time! always worked for me.

I have never dealt with a veneer plaster tho. Not a lot of that around here.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

MrWillys said:


> Cracking occurs for 2 reasons. Improper mixture, and or movement.


True that.. But there are many other reasons for cracking in plaster and drywall. [JS]


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

I'll jump on the durabond wagon. Simple and strong:thumbsup:


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## Swconst (Mar 19, 2014)

I definitely had movement, mixture and temp where all ok when done. 
I'll give the dura 90 a shot...any prep or app tips/tricks besides the basics


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Swconst said:


> I definitely had movement, mixture and temp where all ok when done. I'll give the dura 90 a shot...any prep or app tips/tricks besides the basics


Cut crack into a V , mix mud thick. Top with any topping. Durabond doesn't sand easy.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

How about reading what the manufacturer recommends?

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG/...ing-equipment-for-veneer-plasters-en-PM19.pdf


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Hey guys--- havent been around for awhile[long time], simple answer to what description we were given---Durabond and a topping compound over!! If I followed the recommended finishing of drywall off a bucket of USG joint compound I d be poor and out of work--I can go on for hrs on veneer plaster-- but the simple answer is as Brightstar said!! DSJOHN


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Great to see you back, DS.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

DSJOHN said:


> Hey guys--- havent been around for awhile[long time], simple answer to what description we were given---Durabond and a topping compound over!! If I followed the recommended finishing of drywall off a bucket of USG joint compound I d be poor and out of work--I can go on for hrs on veneer plaster-- but the simple answer is as Brightstar said!! DSJOHN


Please keep in mind that this may be fine on small time work, but when you have product failure the manufacturer will not stand behind improper installations. In other words, if using USG drywall, and they recommend using USG finishing products then do it. If you've never had Plus 3 mud lift off with a paint roller after finishing 1000's of feet of board you haven't lived.

While it may seem macho when playing in the little league too say my way or the highway I'm the damn boss, but when USG cuts you a check for 10's of thousands of dollars, because it was their mistake I'll follow the recommendations. When you get on larger projects you will provide material submittals for approval by the Architect. I would advise you to stick with manufacturers recommendations, and leave the macho crap for the happy hour.

If you make a repair using methods, or materials not recommended you own that repair for life. If you follow manufacturer recommendation they must stand behind you. To me the answer is a no brainer!


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Thanks JustMe/ I see 2Bucks not around much .I Don,t use plus3 and never will.The OP said there were a couple cracks[not product failure]You apparently have never used Diamond plaster MrWillys---read the recommendation from USG--it says 2 part Diamond finish--Diamond basecoat pretty much sticks to anything-- then you apply a finish coat over that----The OP,s question is what product do I use to repair the cracks and does Diamond stick to itself? Not going into a drawn out 3 page explanation;Diamond Finish will not adhere to itself-- only to basecoat or new plaster base[blueboard] .Do you own the USG code handbook? Lots of facts in it-- a good read for some one that thinks they know everything. Maybe you do plaster maybe you dont--my guess-- Youve never done it!!!!! DSJOHN


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

DSJOHN said:


> Thanks JustMe/ I see 2Bucks not around much.


A # of the regulars, like 2buck, Slim Pickins, Mudshark, haven't been around for some while. 2buck is off playing a lot of war games on the net, last I heard. As for the others..........


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

JustMe said:


> A # of the regulars, like 2buck, Slim Pickins, Mudshark, haven't been around for some while. 2buck is off playing a lot of war games on the net, last I heard. As for the others..........


Bummer, those guys always had some great input-- Post some pics of my recent job later--headed there in ten minutes


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

If there's a hand book on how to properly finish off This trash board some of these plants are pushing out I would sure appreciate a link!

Thank you In advance!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

MrWillys said:


> If you've never had Plus 3 mud lift off with a paint roller after finishing 1000's of feet of board you haven't lived.
> 
> !


That's good to know! Thank you! There's no mention of that on the pail! :thumbsup:


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Cause: Imperial Tape overlapped at joint intersections.
Remedy: On large cracks, apply Sheetrock brand joint tape and
ready-mixed joint compound (all-purpose or taping). For minor cracks,
flush out area with Sheetrock ready-mixed joint compound (all-purpose
or taping).
Prevention: Avoid overlapping tape at all joint intersections, including
those at angles.
b. Cause: Improper steel stud placement. Gypsum base application advanced
in wrong direction relative to flange direction.
Remedy: Repair with joint tape and ready-mixed joint compound (allpurpose
or taping).This is a link from the Usg handbook explaining how to repair cracks in veneer plaster- think it was page 390-392-we can all look it up on google. Have at it MrWillys


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

We are doing some plaster repairs today. We do them all the time. My preferred method is to use a chisel and cut a channel into the plaster just wide enough and deep enough to accept taper tape. Say I/8"-1/4" deep by 2 -1/4" wide. V and Prefill the crack with durabond or smoothset. Then bed the tape into taping compound in the channel you have created. After these coats are dry fill the channel with joint compound until the channel is flush to the wall. If it is integral color plaster you either have to faux paint to match color or use the properly tinted plaster. If you use plaster you must immediately cover the patch with light plastic so it remains wet up till the set time. Plaster cannot be allowed to dry out before natural set has occurred.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Actually 1/16" to 1/8" deep channel is correct.


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