# Plaster and Joint Compound



## superiorceilngrepair (Aug 28, 2008)

Have been getting into some of the old homes with cement board and plaster on the ceilings and lath and plaster on the walls and alot of these people have damage to these areas.

When replacing the ceiling with drywall, is it possible to use setting compounds to mate the tape from the joints from the drywall into the painted plaster without having any issues such as bonding?

Is it possible to use setting compounds over painted plaster?


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## superiorceilngrepair (Aug 28, 2008)

24 people have viewed this post and not one knows of an answer? 

Come on, setting compounds guys like 20, 45, 90 etc.

Any type of joint compound, will it work on plaster?????


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## butcherman (Jan 26, 2008)

Yes it is possible, the process is long winded to explain and it depends on the shape of the plaster as to which way to go. Let's start with this technique. First remove the loose plaster to the point where it's still strong enough to stand ( you can re-bond separated plaster and we will get into that later). Then using durabond 45 (not ez sand) mixed loose (like banjo mud) and a hand full of plaster of paris ( mixed in on hawk or in pan) slap the mixture under old plaster to re-bond. Hang rock with a gap of a least 2 inches away from plaster (plaster thicknesses vary). Take plaster weld (you can get at a paint store or supply house) and paint plaster surface with this. This primes the surface for ez sand products. Next mix some ez sand (like banjo mud again) and this time use diamond plaster in the mix (on hawk or in pan). Pull an on and off coat to the plaster side to make sure the compound sticks and there is no peeling later. Then take some fiber-glass mesh off a three foot roll (from a stucco supply house) and cut pieces to span the gap (overhanging at least 8 inches on each side). Now mix ez sand (regular mix) run an 8" knife of compound on both the drywall and plaster side of meet . Put the mesh on and push into the gap and wipe clean. Put some compound into the gap but don't let bubble out. When it sets fill the gap with next mix. Let set. Then float out accordingly. It's a long way to go but it works. I'm sure you will have questions feel Free to ask.


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

Butcherman is right,:thumbsup: I just don't use all those products. I like Durbond 45 or 90 in the brown bags. I also use 5/8 board on ceilings, sometimes I use it on walls. Where the old plaster meets the repair, I make sure I remove paint peeling around the area of the repair. Cause if you get the paint off the plaster the Durabond will adhere to it with no problem, you don't want to apply it to painted plaster, cause if there is any type of gap between the paint and the plaster even using Plaster-Weld will not stick. that loose paint failure has to be removed. I use a 4" T handle wallpaper stripper they sell them at Home Depot in paint dept. I also skimcoat the finish with topping compound so it can be sanded out smooth. Most of the people I do repairs for want their house back to normal with as few days as possible. I can do the repair depending on size usally in 3 to 5 days all repaired and painted. Good luck

www.frankawitz.net


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## butcherman (Jan 26, 2008)

Yes Frank is right at the expense of being to long winded I took certain things for granted. There are other tricks I use. We can get into those when the time comes. I do a lot of this work in Montclair N.J. Which has a lot of older mansions that require these repairs. I always get these calls. You can also experiment with Metal screen, self furring metal screen,structolite (gypsolite), tooth trowels,etc. But i have had success priming the old paint that is not loose with a skim of durabond mixed with a handful of plaster to excel the set time before it peels the paint. If you can get it to set in ten minutes the surface is workable.


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

butcherman said:


> Yes Frank is right at the expense of being to long winded I took certain things for granted. There are other tricks I use. We can get into those when the time comes. I do a lot of this work in *Montclair N.J.* Which has a lot of older mansions that require these repairs. I always get these calls. You can also experiment with Metal screen, self furring metal screen,structolite (gypsolite), tooth trowels,etc. But i have had success priming the old paint that is not loose with a skim of durabond mixed with a handful of plaster to excel the set time before it peels the paint. If you can get it to set in ten minutes the surface is workable.


I did a job there (2 jobs) over the winter. Is that where your from? Or what part of Jersey.


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## butcherman (Jan 26, 2008)

Al Taper said:


> I did a job there (2 jobs) over the winter. Is that where your from? Or what part of Jersey.


 
Originaly from Clifton N.J. If you are familiar with Montclair I work around Upper Mountain rd. So you know they are high end houses.


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

butcherman said:


> Originaly from Clifton N.J. If you are familiar with Montclair I work around Upper Mountain rd. So you know they are high end houses.


Yes i know where you mean. I worked on the house it was big. And the homeowner was telling me that the town double the land tax.And thier house poor. Yeah okey. My house could fit in their carport.:whistling2:


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## amestaper (Sep 3, 2008)

Oops..... Posted in wrong forum. Sorry.


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## butcherman (Jan 26, 2008)

Al Taper said:


> Yes i know where you mean. I worked on the house it was big. And the homeowner was telling me that the town double the land tax.And thier house poor. Yeah okey. My house could fit in their carport.:whistling2:


Most of the people there are down to earth. But the work is always a challenge. Without the challenges this work get boring fast.


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## rosellegolden (Nov 6, 2008)

yes the compounds works just fine


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