# paper faced bead



## damudman (Jan 23, 2008)

I just switched over to the paper bead.
It sure is a lot faster to install and finish, it seams a lot stronger too.
The job i am doing now has about 50 sticks per apartment and we have to do 12 of them.
The last ones we did we used metal bead and an it took 3 hrs for 1 man to install the bead in 1 apt, and we did 8 of them. This was metal framing so you have to screw all the bead on.
Now I installed all the bead in 1.5 hrs, and the finish should go a lot faster now too.
The only thing is it is a little sloppy when rolling the bead on, so if you would have any tips let me know.:thumbup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Have you used the mud applicator for the No Coat tape? Inside or outside corners? They go on the hockey box and put the mud on before the tape. Looks like it would be slick, but is it?


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## Brockster (Dec 15, 2007)

Tim0282 said:


> Have you used the mud applicator for the No Coat tape? Inside or outside corners? They go on the hockey box and put the mud on before the tape. Looks like it would be slick, but is it?


I watched a guy use that system a few years ago and looked like a messy pain but that is just my opinion. 

I'll stick to my metal corner bead using my $29 1/4"by1" pneumatic stapler with my little Porta Cable compressor. I can fly with my system and have had people hit my coated beads with scissor lifts and they held up just as well as nailed beads. 

I've heard only good things with the paper beads but it just looks like a messy operation to me.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Just looking on that is what I have always thought, too. And we do our metal beads the same as you and have had no trouble. They talk about all the structural value in the mud on bead. I really wonder about that. It is hard to beat metal for quick install and coat.


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## JCardoza (Jan 23, 2008)

As a texture guy I HATE the paper bead. I always have to be carefull not to scuff the corner when sanding and it's tough to get a clean corner on it on soffits and what not. Makes me irritated just thinking about it LOL


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## DRYWALLDAN (Jan 23, 2008)

*Adhesive*

I Have Been Using The Metal Bead For Years Except For Places Where Theres No Place To Nail, Then Flextape Or Paper Bead... But Lately I Have Been Using The 3m Adhesive With Paper Bead Its Fast And Works Pretty Good, Just A Thought...i Still Like Nailin Bead But If Ya Want To Go Fast The Adhesive Is Good..


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

I like the paperbead. Its easyer and less mud then metal.


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## savant (Dec 19, 2007)

I cannot tolerate failures w/ 3M spray adhesive & bead. It gets to be useless w/out staples.


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## savant (Dec 19, 2007)

I don't use staples w/ papermetal, but I do w/vinyl. I don't want to have to install every bead myself, and workers always screw-up coverage or dry-time.


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## cooper (Apr 6, 2008)

When you say paper faced you mean tape on right? I use paper face on everything, the texture sticks better, the corner can take more abuse which equals less service calls. That is one bad thing about the drywall trade--service calls. If some finish carpenter decides to punch a hole in the wall you're the guy that comes and fixes it. No questions asked. If you took a hammer and smashed a bit of baseboard, everyone would look at you and say, wtf?

If you are talking about tape on metal though... It is much quicker if you just doing ups and downs. It is difficult to get it to come together on "boxes." Something that meets at a corner from three directions. You can solve this by using straight box mud for those areas. I have done plenty of houses with and and the bucket with the device on the bottom is the best way to go when putting this stuff on. This metal truly is the superior metal because it is much quicker depending on the type of job, it is paper faced so the texture sticks, you use the metal rollers so it goes on completely straight, it doesn't go into the framing so won't shrink with the wood, and is thicker so you will use much less mud.

The downside is definitely that it gets chewed up by hoses, especially old crusty ones.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

damudman said:


> I just switched over to the paper bead. *Good move*
> It sure is a lot faster to install and finish, it seams a lot stronger too. *Your right*
> The job i am doing now has about 50 sticks per apartment and we have to do 12 of them.
> The last ones we did we used metal bead and an it took 3 hrs for 1 man to install the bead in 1 apt, and we did 8 of them. This was metal framing so you have to screw all the bead on.
> ...


Tip on making this job alot less messy is to put just the right amount of mud on the bead and roller it out slower with less presure so not to fling around the excess compound.


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## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

i use the aplatech system with a can-am outside 90 mud applicator, paperfaced metal with a roller. the time saved is worth an extra pass with the floor scraper, if you don't have a little mess your not working fast enough this is a dirty trade know matter how you look at it.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Mudstar said:


> Tip on making this job alot less messy is to put just the right amount of mud on the bead and roller it out slower with less presure so not to fling around the excess compound.


WOW, Mudstar, you are one good looking drywall finisher, if one can go by the picture under your name.???:yes:


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## 1wallboardsman (Feb 20, 2008)

Brockster said:


> I watched a guy use that system a few years ago and looked like a messy pain but that is just my opinion.
> 
> I'll stick to my metal corner bead using my $29 1/4"by1" pneumatic stapler with my little Porta Cable compressor. I can fly with my system and have had people hit my coated beads with scissor lifts and they held up just as well as nailed beads.
> 
> I've heard only good things with the paper beads but it just looks like a messy operation to me.


Do you stick with your wife beating the laundry with a rock down by the river too?

jdl


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Tim0282 said:


> WOW, Mudstar, you are one good looking drywall finisher, if one can go by the picture under your name.???:yes:


Thats for you viewing pleasure 
I post a new avatar once and a while


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## rabb (Mar 22, 2008)

i hate that new paper bead, put that old bead on and i will pop some mud .


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## TooledUp (May 19, 2008)

Corner flex tape is pretty much the standard over here. It has to be stuck on with fast set compound otherwise the paper edges don't dry flat to the wall and it takes forever to dry.


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## NH Drywall (May 27, 2008)

Love the No Coat paper bead! I use it everywhere I can- Easy to apply with the tools (mud applicator accessory for the apla-tech cannon) and Easy to coat using the bead coaters on the box (MUCH less fill than metal beads!) Also- NO call backs! that no-coat bead can withstand a beating and a 1/2... We do mostly large volumes of apartments, ski condo's and resorts- With all the furniture that goes into them we've cut our call backs for broken/dented and cracked bead down to nearly nothing! One of the best things about it is long soffit work- No need to spend time dropping chock lines or splicing beads together.. mud it up, stick them on and roll it - it follows the framing and sheetrock perfectly! Great stuff!


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Tape on paper face is the way to go , metal takes to long to put on even with an air stapler ,, as far as mudding them I have used the apla tech system which is extremely fast but also messy , i have used the applicators in which you pull the beads through its OK but still messy , i ended up just applying mud on the outside corners by hand now and just run my bead on by hand without the roller ,,, it goes fast especially if one guy works tops and the other bottoms... and yes they are strong . I make sure to use the B-1 super wide not flimsy and will not pucker out like some of the cheaper bead , by hand wiping them you can get them more flat and less fill .


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

silverstilts,
What is B-1 super wide?


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

Muddauber said:


> silverstilts,
> What is B-1 super wide?


 It is made by USG i will get the proper code number for it , USG makes different tape on bead this is a little more wider and more ridged and don't pull out from the wall as it is setting , unlike the other brands out there.. also i tried rope bead which is a form of tape on bead which has a small bead of line to form the bead which i did not care for it tends not to lay flat but seems to bow out when doing soffits and long runs.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

I use the B-1 superwide as well. Those of you that say it's too messy... maybe, but you make up for it with less coats/mud and time saved. Or the guys that say you're beating it up... blah blah blah.... it's the same strength as metal. If you're wrecking paper bead and not metal bead in the same way, it's not being applied correctly.


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Muddauber said:


> silverstilts,
> What is B-1 super wide?


It is a paper face cornerbead. The B-1 super wide is wider then the others.

Sorry did see there was a page two..


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Mudstar said:


> Thats for you viewing pleasure
> I post a new avatar once and a while


I was just hoping.... still...


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

No Coat Bead is the best, as mentioned for long soffit work. Can be finished with 1 coat if you do it right. Metal beads are my secondary, and use clincher followed by a hand stapler always. Screws never, tend to bend the bead out.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

^ nail stapler? not drywall nails? just curious?


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

Yes a stanley stapler with staples from 1/2", 3/8", or 5/8". This is the fastest to install them, only bad thing is the 20.00 staplers go bad quick.


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## Whitey97 (Jan 27, 2009)

so you guys just tote a compressor and line around? sounds like a pain in the @$$


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

I really want to try the No-Coat bead but were having trouble getting it here in the UK. Tape on beads are great but very expensive here, about £85 + tax for a box of 50. I use thincoat metal bead mostly, stapled on by hand with 14mm staples.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

*Bead war! Ahhhhh*



TonyM said:


> I really want to try the No-Coat bead but were having trouble getting it here in the UK. Tape on beads are great but very expensive here, about £85 + tax for a box of 50. I use thincoat metal bead mostly, stapled on by hand with 14mm staples.


Mine is stronger than yours!! Ahhhh!!! Man what a topic. It's as though the drywall gods knew there would be Drywall Talk, with many skilled tapers subscribed. They then made different types of bead to watch the minds collide on this never wrong or right topic. I gotta put in my pennies now. When using metal I use a 1-1/8" clincher to attach it to the board and then run a piece of mesh tape from top to bottom, splitting the bead and drywall. Then coat that rig with hotmud/ez sand for the first coat. 
Make sure your clincher isn't 1-1/4" or it won't work right. The 1-1/8" "rips" more metal into the board. That system is the ONLY way I'll install metal bead. 
Paper faced metal, I'll apply the AP mud with a mudrunner equipped with an outside 90 plastic head. Then press bead into place and roll out evenly. Chit ain't goin nowheres! A hopper works well too, but ya gotta make sure your flood gate ain't wide open. Both systems work well, but I wouldn't do it any other way. Nails into wood BLOW! Too slow and wood is too green these days. It'll more than likely move that bead around after a while. I HATE A CALLBACK! And staples are decent, they've got their place in our world. But if y'all never tried a clincher before, you're missing out! Super fast install and it's pretty damn well attached. And when you're working with metal studs, it's the ONLY way to go if you're gonna install metal bead. Forget putting a screw into bead EVER!


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

If you hate callbacks why would you ever use metal bead????


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

mld said:


> If you hate callbacks why would you ever use metal bead????


Exactly! :thumbup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

mld said:


> If you hate callbacks why would you ever use metal bead????


Or A clincher ? Or mesh? ......LOL!


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

moore said:


> Or A clincher ? Or mesh? ......LOL!


A bead clincher sure makes remodel a lot easier. The beads come right off. And I sure don't see that mesh tape does any good on the edge like that. They will still edge crack as soon as the carpenter bangs the trim on the corner. At least that has been my experience.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

2bucks been looking for you.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

mld said:


> If you hate callbacks why would you ever use metal bead????


You're telling me you've never put on some metal bead before? Or used a stick here or there for a remodel or put a few sticks cause your paper faced metal was short? C'mon. I know ya have. I mean what did we all use back in the day before PFM was around? And I don't know what kind of clincher y'all are using or used but if you use a 1-1/8" clincher on 1-1/4" bead that chit ain't coming off. And to say some mesh or running a piece of paper tape up a stick of metal bead ain't gonna help? You're high. 
Sure is better than slamming some nails in the green wood. What did y'all do back when ya had to put metal bead on metal studs? Put screws in it? Give me a break. Like that splayed the bead out proper. Bet the trim guy sent ya a beautiful Christmas card that year.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I have recently changed over to Trim-Tex mudset beads, the main reason is that they are real nice to trowel. But before that I used metal for the previous 30 years or so. The metal bead that you blokes have must be crap, because I can upload pics of bead that I coated over 20 years ago and has not cracked. BTW no mesh or tape on the edges.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Used a clincher back in the early 80's...and yes, the 1 1/8 was the one to have but in all honesty, I didn't like using them as there is no adjustability in the method. It is pushed to the rock and follows what is there. Metal studs could still pose problems for the outside corners but not so much because of the product..but because of the framer or hanger not doing their job correctly. How many times have you done bulkhead/soffits and had kicked studs within the track push the rock out? or those damned pan head screws? Not so bad visually on a short run..but on a long run?

Screwing the bead into metal was a pain in the ass but there was little option if trying to keep the lines.


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

"The metal bead that you blokes have must be crap"

We get a lot of garbage material here in the states.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

Square Foot said:


> Used a clincher back in the early 80's...and yes, the 1 1/8 was the one to have but in all honesty, I didn't like using them as there is no adjustability in the method. It is pushed to the rock and follows what is there. Metal studs could still pose problems for the outside corners but not so much because of the product..but because of the framer or hanger not doing their job correctly. How many times have you done bulkhead/soffits and had kicked studs within the track push the rock out? or those damned pan head screws? Not so bad visually on a short run..but on a long run?
> 
> Screwing the bead into metal was a pain in the ass but there was little option if trying to keep the lines.


I totally hear ya on those longer bulkheads and damn pan head screws. I'd leave the last foot of so unclinched and also strike a chalk line. Do my best to align it then staple it to board with a 1/2" staple. Also where two sticks of metal bead met up. I'd put a 6" piece of bead behind to make sure the bullnose met up evenly. 
I'd much rather use the paper faced metal. Better overall product and finish.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

drywallninja said:


> You're telling me you've never put on some metal bead before? Or used a stick here or there for a remodel or put a few sticks cause your paper faced metal was short? C'mon. I know ya have. I mean what did we all use back in the day before PFM was around? And I don't know what kind of clincher y'all are using or used but if you use a 1-1/8" clincher on 1-1/4" bead that chit ain't coming off. And to say some mesh or running a piece of paper tape up a stick of metal bead ain't gonna help? You're high.
> Sure is better than slamming some nails in the green wood. What did y'all do back when ya had to put metal bead on metal studs? Put screws in it? Give me a break. Like that splayed the bead out proper. Bet the trim guy sent ya a beautiful Christmas card that year.


 Use stapels


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## Gary (Feb 5, 2014)

Anyone ever try Aquabead? I used it once and was very impressed. Goes on super fast, fills with less mud than metal cornerbead, and will never crack.

http://youtu.be/lj2dVPu0Dfk


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

Gary said:


> Anyone ever try Aquabead? I used it once and was very impressed. Goes on super fast, fills with less mud than metal cornerbead, and will never crack.
> 
> http://youtu.be/lj2dVPu0Dfk


Structus also has a version called Hydro-trim but I've never used it. Might be worth a look. Although....I'd still have to question the adjustability?

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1hFLyiChtpM&desktop_uri=/watch?v=1hFLyiChtpM


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

Square Foot said:


> Structus also has a version called Hydro-trim but I've never used it. Might be worth a look. Although....I'd still have to question the adjustability?
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1hFLyiChtpM&desktop_uri=/watch?v=1hFLyiChtpM


I'd also be interested in trying that product out. Seems in theory it would be great. Would kinda suck if it flashed out after being set up.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Square Foot said:


> ...I'd still have to question the adjustability?
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1hFLyiChtpM&desktop_uri=/watch?v=1hFLyiChtpM


I half to head to the city this week to pick up 2 cases of paper face..I'll see If they carry or will ...I would still tape and block before install.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

moore said:


> I half to head to the city this week to pick up 2 cases of paper face..I'll see If they carry or will ...I would still tape and block before install.
> 
> That's cool. My buddy who is a salesmen at our supply house just asked the othe day if I had ever seen or used it. Def seems the less messy than the alternatives. I'd tape before it goes up also.
> Moore, where u at in Virginia?


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

moore said:


> I half to head to the city this week to pick up 2 cases of paper face..I'll see If they carry or will ...I would still tape and block before install.


I do it this way as well.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

drywallninja said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > Moore, where u at in Virginia?
> ...


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

moore said:


> drywallninja said:
> 
> 
> > Buckingham . I work through out the central part.
> ...


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

drywallninja said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > Not too far from my neck of the woods, I'm over near Beckley.
> ...


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## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

drywallninja said:


> moore said:
> 
> 
> > Not too far from my neck of the woods, I'm over near Beckley.
> ...


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

moore said:


> drywallninja said:
> 
> 
> > We'll half to team up sometime and bust out a big one . You got a finish crew? I sub most of the hanging and finish alone.
> ...


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

Square Foot said:


> drywallninja said:
> 
> 
> > You're not far from the New River Gorge. I'd like to check out one of those events.
> ...


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