# Sticky  Tricks of the Trade



## Nathan

Post your tricks of the trade in this thread. Hopefully we can create a useful resource that everyone can use.


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## Mud Master

Got plenty for finishing...but lemme see what I can come up with..

When setting the depth of your screw gun, always do it on a piece of dunnage before production starts as opposed to on the wall during production.

Never tack around any fixtures that you will later cut/route out. Do that after.

Nail the edges, screw the field.

In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.

When dealing with ceilings hieghts that are "odd"(8'3 for example), measure and hang so that your ripper goes in the middle of the wall, and not at the top or bottom.

Oh, when cutting cementboard..WHERE A MASK!!


That's all for now, I am sure I will add to later.

Your Turn....


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## savant

If you have a *lot *of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.

It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.


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## Al Taper

Iam not a hanger. I would rather pay someone to do it.


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## ultrabend

To find the length of a piece of drywall for a curved surface, I use what i call a bender stick that will conform to the radius or curve, make a mark on the stick and measure with your ruler. The bender stick is usually a rip about 3/16" thick preferably from a clear piece of lumber.


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## Drywall1

Buy a board strecher. When short my hangers always call me and say "it was a little tight on rock but we got out the board strecher and we made it work" I don't know how much they cost, but they must be small because I've never seen it on the job.:whistling2:


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## taper71

Leave the door jambs cut at 4 " so the finisher can flush the corners without having to change tools.


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## TomBrooklyn

Mud Master said:


> Nail the edges, screw the field.
> 
> In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.
> 
> When dealing with ceilings hieghts that are "odd"(8'3 for example), measure and hang so that your ripper goes in the middle of the wall, and not at the top or bottom.


Hi,
Thanks for the tips. I have a couple of questions.

Why nail the edges?

I never heard of using adhesive, in residential or commercial construction. When and why and where ought adhesive be used?

What's a ripper?

Thanks. Cheers.


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## von.Awesome

TomBrooklyn said:


> Hi,
> Thanks for the tips. I have a couple of questions.
> 
> Why nail the edges?
> 
> I never heard of using adhesive, in residential or commercial construction. When and why and where ought adhesive be used?
> 
> What's a ripper?
> 
> Thanks. Cheers.


i never nail the edges ever thats for old timers lol however we used grabber glue on all interior walls... meaning not the ones with vapor barrier. just dab a glob of glue at about 16 and 32 inches at every stud except the butts or around boxes, as it is messy while you router. then simply screw the perimeter as you would and put 2 screws about 2 inches away from each other in the center of the sheet every 2 studs ish. get your helper to get the glue on the wall while you cut and measure the sheet... i have no idea what a ripper is... and we dont use glue in commercial as it is usually steel stud... i dont think glue goes on that... but it might!


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## savant

A "ripper" is usually a familiar way of referring to a strip of rock ripped lengthwise from a sheet. I often refer to a circular saw as a "spinsaw" It's faster and easier to pronounce when you're fatigued. 

Putting it in the middle keeps the hump away from trim, and gives you enough room on either side to feather it out properly.


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## select drywall

1st off for any wall between 8 and 9 ft get 54inch drywall so there is no rip. Any decent drywall company is concerned about call backs and eliminating them. The way we have found best to do that is to use twice the amount of recomended glue and then screw the perimiter and put a few in the middle. Zero nails. Actually no one from our company even carries any in there truck or pouch. Make sure to plan your ceiling layout to span any joist hangers and keep screws away from them as well. Additionly float your ends keeping screws a min of 16 inches from all edges. This allows trusses to move up and down with out cracking corners. If your going to use high sheen paint be sure to do a level 5 finish on the walls. Some may charge a lot for this but dont need to. Be sure to use rocksplicers on all butt joints and no-coat beads for all corners. Also ultraflexx for inside 45's. These all come with there own warrenties if properly installed.


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## the cool bean

*just my opinion*



Mud Master said:


> Got plenty for finishing...but lemme see what I can come up with..
> 
> When setting the depth of your screw gun, always do it on a piece of dunnage before production starts as opposed to on the wall during production.
> 
> Never tack around any fixtures that you will later cut/route out. Do that after.
> 
> Nail the edges, screw the field.
> 
> In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.
> 
> When dealing with ceilings hieghts that are "odd"(8'3 for example), measure and hang so that your ripper goes in the middle of the wall, and not at the top or bottom.
> 
> Oh, when cutting cementboard..WHERE A MASK!!
> 
> 
> That's all for now, I am sure I will add to later.
> 
> Your Turn....


I agree and disagree on certain points. as a Total drywaller. i've hanging and finishing for 15 years.
Agree:

always check your gun dpeth br you start hanging.
NEVER EVER EVER EVER Screw or Nail off around Receptacle openings untill they are cout our, as tyhis will fracture the board and add unnecessary manhours in repair to the finishing end of the trade. (or punchout that wasnt caught in the finishing process)

NEVER NEVER Nail off the edges, ie perimiter. Use some nails in the bottom roll and one or 2 field areas to Secure (tack off) the board. nailing the perimiters in the angles will really tick off the tapers. Anglehead blades cost $40.ea. and every nail not properly sunk can break the braphite blades.


as far as Rp's are concerned. do your taper a favor. Place it onto the wall with the factory edge (The Roll) Up.


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## the cool bean

*Just my personal Opinion*



savant said:


> If you have a *lot *of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.
> 
> It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.


 
In a perfect world. this is a great idea. However, due to bad lumber and other factors. no cut is ever the same. and i for one like to cut @least to within a 1/4 " the odds of several sheets being the same size (without crooked cuts etc) are slim to none.
Please Measure Top and bottom of every sheet, cut crooked if you have to. Make it Tight and you make it Right.


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## the cool bean

Al Taper said:


> Iam not a hanger. I would rather pay someone to do it.


 
if you're ever in Florida. Look me up. 3D Interiors Inc. out of largo in the tampa bay area.


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## JCardoza

savant said:


> If you have a *lot *of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.
> 
> It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.


 
:blink:Ouch!!! LOL makes me flinch just thinking about it... I'll have to try it! I like it!


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## JCardoza

Here is a cheat that is only good for us guys who don't hang all the time; Lowes now sells magnetic box finders.... you put one magnetic plastic piece in the box... hang over it and then find it with another box shapped plastic piece with magnets in it.. which lines itself up (and sticks thru the drywall) properly magneticaly... trace it and router it. They come three outlet sides in a pack. They are yellow and in the tool section at lowes.I bought them for FRP worked great! the magnets will stick to each other THRU your hand! they don't like metal commercial boxes though.


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## evolve991

Residential hanging: 
Use Miracle DSA/20 or OSI Drywall Adhesive(not Liquid Nails or Tite Bond or Earls Glue or any other knockoff and NEVER use Subfloor Adhesive) 
Glue along the stud covering the width of the sheet as much as posible without getting it between the rolled edges and/or hands etc. Dont glue butt joints unless you're sure it fits and dont use much then. Don't glue over insulation tabs that are stapled on the face of the stud,in fact tell someone there is an idiot doing insulation in the vicinity. If you absolutely have to live with a gap in a joint or corner it can be filled with glue so the finisher doesn't need alot of mud to pre-fill it and it doesn't shrink later, a little spit on your finger usually keeps it from sticking and you can work it like caulk(yes spit...you're a construction worker right? prissy belongs in the office) They dont call it Miracle for nothing.

Nails....and the sudden demand for the lack of....I nail rolled edges because most lumber lets the screws spin out in the denser edge of the sheet,which means I can either put the screw OUTside the rolled edge and now hear crap about "they need spotted now" or I can try 3 or 4 times,chew up the recess and probably still nail the damn thing. I prefer to screw butt joints but again lumber deters this if its normal 2X's since the lumber these days is trash. Do NOT use ring shank nails....PERIOD. CC Smooth is what you look for. Maryland Steel and Wire if at all possible. 

Screws....set the depth on the rock you're hanging in the house you're hanging to determine how soft/hard the lumber/rock are and how deep you need to set it. Most times its fine but don't assume or you'll be going back and setting screws. Screw the fields. Screw the fields. Did you just put a nail in that field?!? Put a screw about an inch from it. Now take off your belt. 

Joints....no,put that out this isn't Tijuana....never break on a jack stud,not a window jack,not a door jack. Make it at least 4 inches past the opening. On ceilings find the 'UP' joist or your finisher will need a snow shovel to float it out. Always go for the smallest butt joint,don't run a 12 past a window and make a 4 foot joint 2 feet from the corner/door/etc when you can make a 24 inch joint under/over the window. 

Rips...if its 9 foot ceilings get 54" drywall. If you have to use a rip put it either up top or on the bottom,rolled edge to rolled edge. Try to keep the lower tape joint up where the finisher doesn't have to crawl. If possible keep the upper tape joint reachable from the floor. In high rooms over 10 foot a 32 inch rip on the floor puts another joint at 80 inches which stays below most window/door headers and is easily reachable. 

Switches/Receptacles/Recessed lights. Measure to the outside edge from the closest surface and write it there. This keeps you from chewing up wires and maybe some unplanned arc welding. 

PS Don't listen to El Zol while hanging drywall as this leads to destructive quality ethics and an urge to run at the sight of official uniforms. It also causes my blood pressure to spike and my Estwing develops bloodlust.


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## Drywall1

Whew! 


evolve991 said:


> Residential hanging:
> Use Miracle DSA/20 or OSI Drywall Adhesive(not Liquid Nails or Tite Bond or Earls Glue or any other knockoff and NEVER use Subfloor Adhesive)
> Glue along the stud covering the width of the sheet as much as posible without getting it between the rolled edges and/or hands etc. Dont glue butt joints unless you're sure it fits and dont use much then. Don't glue over insulation tabs that are stapled on the face of the stud,in fact tell someone there is an idiot doing insulation in the vicinity. If you absolutely have to live with a gap in a joint or corner it can be filled with glue so the finisher doesn't need alot of mud to pre-fill it and it doesn't shrink later, a little spit on your finger usually keeps it from sticking and you can work it like caulk(yes spit...you're a construction worker right? prissy belongs in the office) They dont call it Miracle for nothing.
> 
> Nails....and the sudden demand for the lack of....I nail rolled edges because most lumber lets the screws spin out in the denser edge of the sheet,which means I can either put the screw OUTside the rolled edge and now hear crap about "they need spotted now" or I can try 3 or 4 times,chew up the recess and probably still nail the damn thing. I prefer to screw butt joints but again lumber deters this if its normal 2X's since the lumber these days is trash. Do NOT use ring shank nails....PERIOD. CC Smooth is what you look for. Maryland Steel and Wire if at all possible.
> 
> Screws....set the depth on the rock you're hanging in the house you're hanging to determine how soft/hard the lumber/rock are and how deep you need to set it. Most times its fine but don't assume or you'll be going back and setting screws. Screw the fields. Screw the fields. Did you just put a nail in that field?!? Put a screw about an inch from it. Now take off your belt.
> 
> Joints....no,put that out this isn't Tijuana....never break on a jack stud,not a window jack,not a door jack. Make it at least 4 inches past the opening. On ceilings find the 'UP' joist or your finisher will need a snow shovel to float it out. Always go for the smallest butt joint,don't run a 12 past a window and make a 4 foot joint 2 feet from the corner/door/etc when you can make a 24 inch joint under/over the window.
> 
> Rips...if its 9 foot ceilings get 54" drywall. If you have to use a rip put it either up top or on the bottom,rolled edge to rolled edge. Try to keep the lower tape joint up where the finisher doesn't have to crawl. If possible keep the upper tape joint reachable from the floor. In high rooms over 10 foot a 32 inch rip on the floor puts another joint at 80 inches which stays below most window/door headers and is easily reachable.
> 
> Switches/Receptacles/Recessed lights. Measure to the outside edge from the closest surface and write it there. This keeps you from chewing up wires and maybe some unplanned arc welding.
> 
> PS Don't listen to El Zol while hanging drywall as this leads to destructive quality ethics and an urge to run at the sight of official uniforms. It also causes my blood pressure to spike and my Estwing develops bloodlust.


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## select drywall

some thoughts-
1. dont set and forget your depth on your screw gun. With time you will realize when screwing inside corners go 2 or 3 clicks deeper then you will need for the field. This is something I do without even realizing it. Also my gun depth is constantly changing. Again with out really thinking about it. 
2. even if its a 8ft house get soome 54inch to avoid little rips on the ceiling and to get the flat above the outlets in the kitchen. 
3. If you have an opton between breaking a joint over a window or over a door, choose a window. This joint will get alot less vibration then a joint over a door. 
4. Dont try to save money on screws. You end up spending more because half of them will end up on the floor when they dont work.
5. never pick up screws on the floor to use. If you drop the bad ones what is the point. Also trying to make a screw work that has a bad head wastes time and money. drop it
6. leave the nails for the roofers!!!
7. Use rocksplicers. never break joints on framed lumber if you dont have to.
8. If your having trouble with screws in bevels spinning try this. Mark the studs and wait till the bottom sheet is up. Then screw close to the bevel. It works. If you do it before the bottom sheet is jacked up you will blow th ebevel out.
9. Prefill all blow outs and gaps before taping with quick set or straight green. Makes a better job and eeasier taping. some finishers even "V" cut there butt joints and prefill them. If you have ridging issues this helps.
10. Prefilling with glue can create a problem because it shrinks. So if your going to "help" the finisher by prefilling a gap make sure it will set up before he tapes. Better yet use that sheet somewhere else and cut one that fits or as a hanger carry 5 minute with you. I have prefilled my mistakes for the finisher. he was very happy.
11. keep all screws at least a foot away from boxes in the field. Alot of boxes ae mounted on plates and when screwed close to will blow out. Even after there routed.


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## BattleRidge

Man I wish I did that circular saw thing the other day, I hung a elevator shaft double layer and the first layers were the same size for like 20 sheets. That would have worked great. But I wouldn't use it anywhere else. 

Nails work fine but only in the rail and edges, where the tape covers them so they don't pop due to vibration and such. Bad screws mess up knives just the same.

V your butts before putting the sheets up, tapers will like you. More referrals.

always check your job off by running your hammerhead over all the screws to make sure they don't click. 

I dont set my depth permanently, its always changing. 

If something is tight fitting don't just hit it get a butt and hit the edge with something with more surface area so nothin blows out.

When you hang massive ceilings start against the wall in the center of the room. This will keep your sheets from tottering oout of control. If they start, flex them over the butt so the two ends of the rail is tight. Then router the center around the other sheets, this will correct the totter.

White side your sheets when you stock.

Always screw the corners first, so while you screw off the your sheet, the next can be measures and put in place.

If you do break a edge or bulge a nail that you hung over, cut the spot out so the taper doesn't have to.

If you make long rips save the remnants for wrapping windows.

Always remember to hang behind the door in closets before you hang the walls. That sucks when you can't get the sheet in there.

ICE tips work better then anything for your screw gun.

When you cut rips, instead of snapping lines, slid cut it then break it and instead of cutting the back, flew the bend foreward once to weakin the paper and slam the sheet back and it breaks the cut clean. Its way more managable to do it this way. This only works w, 5'8s tho.

If you hang over a very obtrusive box under the rail that pushes the rail out mark it and hang the other sheet before you route it so you can make sure your rail is tight.


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## evolve991

SO good to see there are still quality minded hangers out there!! I hope there is still a demand for quality where you guys are because around here its all about blowing a house out in 2 days and convincing homeowners they don't know what they're looking at.


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## butcherman

Heres one as a finisher who also rocks. Get metal tracks cut them at 5' in length. On ceiling butt joints only. Run the joints bettween studs. Screw metal track to both sides of butt joint and to the boards above and below. If you look at the tracks they have tabs on each side of the track. When the butt joint is screwed to the middle the tabs slightly push the board down and makes a recess in the butt joint. This way you don't have to float a wide butt joint. USG makes a product with this in mind but the tracks serve the same purpose and cost less.


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## Muddauber

butcherman said:


> Heres one as a finisher who also rocks. Get metal tracks cut them at 5' in length. On ceiling butt joints only. Run the joints bettween studs. Screw metal track to both sides of butt joint and to the boards above and below. If you look at the tracks they have tabs on each side of the track. When the butt joint is screwed to the middle the tabs slightly push the board down and makes a recess in the butt joint. This way you don't have to float a wide butt joint. USG makes a product with this in mind but the tracks serve the same purpose and cost less.


I've thought about trying the track method also.
What guage track do you use?I think if I were to use 25g the center of the track would pull down to the board instead of the board pulling up to the track. So would I need to use 20g or heavier?


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## butcherman

Definately use the heavier gauge. You want the joints to curl up slightly. I actually use a chop saw to cut them at my warehouse and stock them there. Saves time , material , and frustration on rough meets. 20 or heavier is good. Never tried light gauge for that. Also sometimes my guys run out and try 2x4's. I can't for the life of me figure out how they don't realize it defeats the purpose. I guess because they do nothing but hang. What i'm saying is make sure your crew understands the reason or you might meet resistance. Just make sure its not flat on the face of the track.


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## evolve991

butcherman said:


> Definately use the heavier gauge. You want the joints to curl up slightly. I actually use a chop saw to cut them at my warehouse and stock them there. Saves time , material , and frustration on rough meets. 20 or heavier is good. Never tried light gauge for that. Also sometimes my guys run out and try 2x4's. I can't for the life of me figure out how they don't realize it defeats the purpose. I guess because they do nothing but hang. What i'm saying is make sure your crew understands the reason or you might meet resistance. Just make sure its not flat on the face of the track.


 
I'd be all for that! You would actually save time NOT cutting 12's back to 128" or 120" to hit the UP. BUT try convincing anyone around here! They still want us to use rips with no rolled edge!


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## Mr Wallboard

I tape all my exterior bead corners for insurance.

Screw Everything 

Measure 2wice

Ventilation


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## intensifier

*54 inch board made easy*

Don't hurt yourself.
set your lifters on the floor and set your bottom sheet down on the lifter/lifters.. tack only one or two screws on the top of the sheet. mark the remaining studs with pencil and then stack the top sheet on. hold the two adjoining bevels with one hand, undo the screws and then lift both sheets up with the lifters. zip in some screws and there you go!:thumbsup:


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## intensifier

savant said:


> If you have a *lot *of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.
> 
> It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.


 Are you nuts?:whistling2:


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## AndrewA

ultrabend said:


> To find the length of a piece of drywall for a curved surface, I use what i call a bender stick that will conform to the radius or curve, make a mark on the stick and measure with your ruler. The bender stick is usually a rip about 3/16" thick preferably from a clear piece of lumber.


 You can also turn you tape around an mark the length on the back side of your tape. It will curve around the radius easily and gives an accurate measurement. It is also how i pull layout on a radius.


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## Willie T

intensifier said:


> Don't hurt yourself.
> set your lifters on the floor and set your bottom sheet down on the lifter/lifters.. tack only one or two screws on the top of the sheet. mark the remaining studs with pencil and then stack the top sheet on. hold the two adjoining bevels with one hand, undo the screws and then lift both sheets up with the lifters. zip in some screws and there you go!:thumbsup:


So, you're lifting both top and bottom boards at once? You don't have trouble with the joint stagger?


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## Willie T

select drywall said:


> ....Additionly float your ends keeping screws a min of 16 inches from all edges. This allows trusses to move up and down with out cracking corners. ....


Nice work if you can get it. That is, unfortunately, a guaranteed flag catcher here In St. Petersburg. They won't even buy it if you use clips at every stud or firring strip.


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## Kozzmo

This is only good if the wall is under 12'.Plus.it takes 2 kickers. And even then,it's not that good.I;ll bet I can hang the wall faster by myself one sheet at a time than you two can like that.:]


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## Kozzmo

You know the little cutting wheel on a circle hole cutter? I used rivets to put one on the end of my 25' stanley tape measure!Talk about cutting butts & rips easily !It's easy to replace when my tape breaks and yes,I can still pull measurements from trusses or studs with no help.I know alot of us have been doing this a long time and I'm tellin' ya guys...this is a killer trick of the trade !


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## [email protected]

On that stretch(54) board...May not work if you're under 6' but I use a 17" handle in my hammer and start my nails in the top of the sheet just like on 8' stuff. I can hang 12 and 14 stretch but need a hand on 16's. If the hanger is too short start the nails at each end but as high as you can reach and use a helper. Your back will thank you later.

Raising two sheets at once, stacked can't be safe, and if you've got to use 2 lifters... I don't see how your saving any time or help. Plus all that weight is bound to destroy the bottom rail and taper will have to fix.


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## intensifier

Willie T said:


> So, you're lifting both top and bottom boards at once? You don't have trouble with the joint stagger?


basically, I am talking about closets and small stuff like that.. you don't have to use two men for a big sheet. If you want to bigsheet that way, then WHY NOT "if you can make it work" this system does work very well for closets and split sheets and it is very fast if you figure out exactly how to doit!


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## rockdaddy

never, ever, ever, ever put a bellyband on you wall.Put the plug on hte bottom so trim can cover it up. Anything bigger than 6 inches can go at the top or at the bottom.


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## aschnit

belly bands in the middle of the wall rule!


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## alltex

Al Taper said:


> Iam not a hanger. I would rather pay someone to do it.


 here here!


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## silverstilts

Belly Bands are a thing of the past. With 54" board no need to have a butt seam running through the middle of the wall anything over 9' split another sheet and fit the factory edges together. Belly bands use way to much mud and are very time consuming to finish and make right. The amount of mud and time spent you might as well cough up the extra $$ for the proper sheetrock for the job... If I have walls 8' 4" usually buy enough 54" to do one row around the walls and rip it down a couple of inches . A lot less finish time .


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## Whitey97

Tell that to one of my contractors, who still has me do that.... so annoying


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## silverstilts

Well ****** tell him that you will have to double up on price since he has twice as many seams . that's what we use to do but don't anymore if done properly.... at least charge him some extra for the extra labor and materials.:yes: really sucks on commercial (wood framed) jobs and the walls are 9' and the ceilings are dropped down at 8' and they want it finished for their ceiling grid so they stack the rock and the Rip goes on top , easy to hide but a real pain in the a$$ . don't they realize that it takes time for them too to cut rippers and hang them... duh!!!!!


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## Whitey97

The contractor litteraly told me this "I would rather give you the extra money than the supplier" my comment back was, "I would rather have 54"


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## rocker7969

I'm only 5'7" and about 165lbs or so, and I hang 12' 54" rock all day w/ no problem. Hang the top sheet, then then bottom. The only way I'm able to do this easily is because I use a Senco self-feeding screw gun. I lift the top sheet up, hold it against the ceiling w/ one arm, then grab the self-feeder that's clipped on my tool belt and just tack the sheet up. Try this w/ a regular screwgun, and every damned time you get the sheet up and go to grab your gun, the screw falls off before you can tack the sheet. lol Guess it just takes practice and knowing what you're doing to be able to hang by yourself all the time.


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## Wallers

A couple more points about glue... We don't put ANY screws in the field if the rock is glued. The glue will "forgive" twisted or warped studs, and set up even if it stretches 1/4", thus eliminating the wavy wall, or popped screws that can result from the "quality" lumber that gc's leave us to work with. Also, start your glue globbing 6 to 8 inches down from the top plate (apply it to the studs) because when you go to slam it up, you are less likely to roll glue down the face of the board by sliding the rock through it. you only need 25- 30" of glue per sheet because you are screwing off the perimeter, and then you also dont leave glue running out of your joints for the finisher to scrape off and cuss at. And for the same reasons never glue up your "breaking stud" where the butt joint will be.

Thank you very much,

A happy finisher. (as long as the bead is straight!)


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## Wallers

Speaking of straight bead, has anyone tried that new clincher out? Does it help to get the bead on straight?


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## silverstilts

Wallers said:


> Speaking of straight bead, has anyone tried that new clincher out? Does it help to get the bead on straight?


 What type of new clincher are you referring to? Not that it matters because I am still using paper faced and no coat, but would be interesting to see a new tool ?


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## Wallers

Silver, I have only seen it on Ebay! I just looked on all-wall, and low and behold, a new tool they DON'T have! Anyway Its called the beadmaster and they have it for 90, 135, and bull. It's obviously just a new spin on an old product, but I'm going to buy one for my rocker and see if that will fix him! oop, fix his bead I mean. If not, its on to another rocker. I'm thinkin 3 or 4 whacks just to set it and then air stapler to secure it. oh yeah, its only 25 bucks!


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## Wallers

The 135 would be useless, seeing as no builder or framer even frames for outside odd angles. It's straitflex or ultraflex on those. Hey-- have you seen the hydratrim??? I will post a thread in the rocking segment so we can hear feedback about it, unless that is what you are using now. You just spray it with water, roll it, and it's done. theoretically. I believe no coat makes it.


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## Saul_Surfaces

Found out that punching a few small holes (using a drywall screw) in the center of the the solid discs cuts down the severity of sanding using the PC sander. The perforated Joest discs behave nice too, but every time I throw a solid disc on my pc without holes it squeezes out the air from the center of the disc and holds itself too tight to the ceiling (even with the vacuum off or disconnected). The few holes in the disc prevents that.


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## grid ninja

*radios*

have you ever sagged a string for arch .15 ft across arch 3 ft up in center example . chalk level line between 15ft marks measure down 3 ft in center let string sag makes a perfect pattern. cool dude in broken arrow


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## tricounty dwall

Saul_Surfaces said:


> Found out that punching a few small holes (using a drywall screw) in the center of the the solid discs cuts down the severity of sanding using the PC sander. The perforated Joest discs behave nice too, but every time I throw a solid disc on my pc without holes it squeezes out the air from the center of the disc and holds itself too tight to the ceiling (even with the vacuum off or disconnected). The few holes in the disc prevents that.


saul what i usually do us cut a x in the center of the disc. if u dont it sucks to the rocks.


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## Saul_Surfaces

yeah, cutting an 'x' is likley quicker than punching holes. Thanks.


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## Bill from Indy

the beadmaster got dropped years ago....best clincher ever imho..I had a prototype that was made out of aluminum

they were designed to be used with air too..they had a different head that attached where the black plunger is and you hook an airhose to it..pull the trigger like a nailgun but it bit the teeth to clinch

they had a few different ones...green was 90 orange was 135 and I think blue or yellow was bullnose..

The rumor I heard, is that the mfgr was a guy out of Florida and got the patent..made his $ on it and stopped making more...The big problem was people were using them with a regular mallet like you would on a normal clincher and it would split the head where it attached to the frame

I want to say they have been out of business for at least 8yrs but I could be wrong...my personal opinion is that if you find them on ebay, buy them up if you do a lot of metal bead..I have seen them on there from time to time, but I don't do a lot of metal bead anymore

I still have a 135 somewhere in the garage...it don't work the greatest though because it don't splay the bead enough..it bites like a champ, but you have to do a lot of fill on one side or both...the green 90 clincher is the one to get


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## MIKE FROM NH

Al Taper said:


> Iam not a hanger. I would rather pay someone to do it.


same here ! :thumbsup:


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## alltex

put alum in your hot mud to make it set faster


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## DSJOHN

Alltex,you stole my secret,we,ve been doing that with our plaster mixes for years, the accelerator sold at blowes and HD is the same as alum, works great with hot mud. JOHN


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## Capt-sheetrock

DSJOHN said:


> Alltex,you stole my secret,we,ve been doing that with our plaster mixes for years, the accelerator sold at blowes and HD is the same as alum, works great with hot mud. JOHN


Speaking of alum,,,

If you mix it with greem persimmon juice and make it into a paste and then rub it on your head,,,, 

well It won't grow hair, but it WILL suck your side-burns up on top of your head!!!!!!!!!


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## DSJOHN

Can.t stop laughing at that one Capt!!! I take it your aunt Emma used to can? JOHN


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## drywallOne

Wallers said:


> Speaking of straight bead, has anyone tried that new clincher out? Does it help to get the bead on straight?


bead clinch is only to set the bead in place to screw it off later ....if you clinch and dont screw it will crack with the slightest bump.

I dont let my guys use a clinch, i think its a step you dont need to do ...with stand ups under 12 feet there is no need to snap a chalk line....vert i always snap to make sure there straight.

Alot of hack's will clinch and tape without screwing which is faster but not a better job. 

Imo


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## 2buckcanuck

hour working union guys putting on metal beads with screws, is and always was scary sh1t.
-And you use a chalk line (not even a laser) to get your bead straight ,Is it not your eyes that tell you if it's crooked ...hint:whistling2:
-hey I'm in a union too but it's a piece workers union ,we learnt a long time ago not to let a carpenter/rocker install bead.
here's some links for you since your a foreman.
http://www.drywallschool.com/paperbead.htm
http://trim-tex.com/products/prefinished.php
welcome to 2010:thumbsup:


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## nickcruz

Don't use drywall nails if you can't install them right .I use them on the outsides of sheets only because im twice as fast as any screw gun for cheeper. one box of screws for fiffty bucks will last 25 thousand feet and the nails about the same total 100 bucks all screws for the same footage 4.5 buckets of screws total 225.no brainer unless your a rookie who never could put a nail if they tried.stick with the screws if you want ?


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## drywallOne

2buckcanuck said:


> hour working union guys putting on metal beads with screws, is and always was scary sh1t.
> -And you use a chalk line (not even a laser) to get your bead straight ,Is it not your eyes that tell you if it's crooked ...hint:whistling2:
> -hey I'm in a union too but it's a piece workers union ,we learnt a long time ago not to let a carpenter/rocker install bead.
> here's some links for you since your a foreman.
> http://www.drywallschool.com/paperbead.htm
> http://trim-tex.com/products/prefinished.php
> welcome to 2010:thumbsup:


I do understand that there will always be a person looking to argue but make sure you know what your talking about ....

This will be the only time i give into somthing stupid but here it goes ....

#1""hour working union guys putting on metal beads with screws, is and always was scary sh1t.""

we work by the hour not the square foot ...your trying to tell me that a taper can put beads on better then a union carpenter ? get real

And you use a chalk line (not even a laser) to get your bead straight ,Is it not your eyes that tell you if it's crooked ...hint

A laser ???? like a line laser??? you would be taking your tools home and calling the shop beacuse you would not be on my job anymore.Like i said anything on verticals over 12 feet snap a chalk line....meaning cut 3 inches off the end of your bead press it on the corner untill you have fill on both sides mark each side and snap.

hey I'm in a union too but it's a piece workers union ,we learnt a long time ago not to let a carpenter/rocker install bead.
That explains everything !


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## Mudstar

I have to agree with 2buck here on not letting the rocker or carpenter install the bead because they don't know how 50% of the time and don't even realize that too much mud on steel is a problem waiting to happen as well . 

Steel bead is so out dated and should not be used period. My reasoning is its to easily damaged, take too much mud and when the framing twists the bead does too. 3 strikes in baseball means your out and that's that the same with corner beads. I can't think of any pros and many more cons against it.

Now for paper faced bead you have way more control on where it is set, key word being set. When framing is not truly strait and that's 50% of the time and does move. Float the bead, key word float, gives you the ability to straiten things out which is hard to accomplish with steel. Not only can you straiten it will not be threatened by framing movement to crack like fastened steel. Them two reasons alone are reason enough but installation time to put paper faced bead on is less then half the time guaranteed less then 30 seconds for a stand up with paper and over a minute to screw or nail down steel. 

Oh and yes a taper can do the job faster with perfect results every time drywallOne 

I'm union piece worker too and care a lot more then any hourly worker I've ever met or heard stories about in the 25 + years in the industry. 

JS


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## DSJOHN

drywallOne said:


> I do understand that there will always be a person looking to argue but make sure you know what your talking about ....
> 
> This will be the only time i give into somthing stupid but here it goes ....
> 
> #1""hour working union guys putting on metal beads with screws, is and always was scary sh1t.""
> 
> we work by the hour not the square foot ...your trying to tell me that a taper can put beads on better then a union carpenter ? get real
> 
> And you use a chalk line (not even a laser) to get your bead straight ,Is it not your eyes that tell you if it's crooked ...hint
> 
> A laser ???? like a line laser??? you would be taking your tools home and calling the shop beacuse you would not be on my job anymore.Like i said anything on verticals over 12 feet snap a chalk line....meaning cut 3 inches off the end of your bead press it on the corner untill you have fill on both sides mark each side and snap.
> 
> hey I'm in a union too but it's a piece workers union ,we learnt a long time ago not to let a carpenter/rocker install bead.
> That explains everything !


Union carpenter putting bead on fast!!! thats an oxymoron isnt it? Paperfaced metal , roller tool and hopper will blow any metal bead guy away,,,PERIOD


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## proficient Mudder

drywallOne said:


> I do understand that there will always be a person looking to argue but make sure you know what your talking about ....
> 
> This will be the only time i give into somthing stupid but here it goes ....
> 
> #1""hour working union guys putting on metal beads with screws, is and always was scary sh1t.""
> 
> we work by the hour not the square foot ...your trying to tell me that a taper can put beads on better then a union carpenter ? get real


The scary part is that alot of guys will torq the bead with the screws leaving them to be floated square by the finisher.

I work hourly and will make a pretty big wager that I can install beads 2 to 1 to almost any Union Carpenter that works around here.

Bill


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## drywallOne

Im not looking to argue with anyone, maybe where your from the tapers put on the bead but around here its our locals work.

We have some great tapers but the funny thing is they dont want to put the bead on,when i ask a taper to put paper bead on rounds they dont want to do it.

We use plastic on almost everything but steel bead must be screwed on all fire rated walls around here.

I take pride in my work and love to do bead ...its the gravy vs hanging drywall.


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## proficient Mudder

drywallOne said:


> Im not looking to argue with anyone, maybe where your from the tapers put on the bead but around here its our locals work.
> 
> We have some great tapers but the funny thing is they dont want to put the bead on,when i ask a taper to put paper bead on rounds they dont want to do it.
> 
> We use plastic on almost everything but steel bead must be screwed on all fire rated walls around here.
> 
> I take pride in my work and love to do bead ...its the gravy vs hanging drywall.


I hear ya on the Gravy, I give alot of respect to any framer/ hanger here that will take pride in there work. It's ashame when hourly guys won't take the time to do things right.
I just finished a 1,000 board job and the hangers had certain areas to hang to keep up with there board average and quality. I bought a Steak dinner for those that had the best board hung. I feel alittle appreiciation can go a long ways.

Bill


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## SlimPickins

proficient Mudder said:


> I bought a Steak dinner for those that had the best board hung. I feel alittle appreiciation can go a long ways.
> 
> Bill


Looks like I'm movin' to Kentucky!

I recently did a stint for a big commercial company, and the guys called me "Too Tight Mike". They were horrified that I called out numbers that had a "heavy" (for sixteenths) attached to them. What's funny is how the tapers on that job were all thrilled at the noticeable lack of extra taping and prefill that had to be done. I think all hangers should have to do some time taping so they now how the job should be done.

As a piece worker for a long time, I would rather lose a little money and have my hanging be extra clean. Hell, it makes the work at least a _little _bit more interesting. Any monkey can give a 1/4" on every sheet....even those that are tight fit. In this economy though, everyone is cutting every corner they possibly can to feel like they're making the same money they were two years ago.


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## 2buckcanuck

drywallone
I'm not putting forth a stupid argument.this is a professional dry wall site.there's alot of smart experienced guys on here.we back up what we say with fact.we may jump down one guys throat one day,and support what they say the next day.were a strange lot...we may be each others competition,but we also share a livelihood 
here's to some of your post
-your tapers will not put on bead in your hour work union b/c your two different unions,your carpenters union,you guys install trim - example metal/vinyl bead,tapers are painters union,they install stuff that requires mud - example tape or paper bead 
-If I showed up on your site with a laser you would send me back to the shop? what about if i showed up with a bazooka,boxes etc.Think we know the answer to that one.
-by the hour carpenter better than a piece worker,you still get paid when you screw up,we get back charged or go back and fix for free.
-putting bead on for you is gravy work,you suddenly paid by the Ln.ft. ???
-I'm from London area,did Hiawatha race track/casino in sarnia (union job) you union carpenters could not get the metal nor vinyl bead to run straight on 200 ft long bulk heads using chalk lines,string lines ,levels,etc.but this here taper did,done by my EYES and in ways that mudstar described in his post.
-piece workers rule weather union or not,we half to find better,faster,ways and always half to do A 1 work,your stuck in the 1950's.but to you my points are stupid.
-welcome to the site fellow canuck


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## drywallOne

2buckcanuck said:


> drywallone
> I'm not putting forth a stupid argument.this is a professional dry wall site.there's alot of smart experienced guys on here.we back up what we say with fact.we may jump down one guys throat one day,and support what they say the next day.were a strange lot...we may be each others competition,but we also share a livelihood
> here's to some of your post
> -your tapers will not put on bead in your hour work union b/c your two different unions,your carpenters union,you guys install trim - example metal/vinyl bead,tapers are painters union,they install stuff that requires mud - example tape or paper bead
> -If I showed up on your site with a laser you would send me back to the shop? what about if i showed up with a bazooka,boxes etc.Think we know the answer to that one.
> -by the hour carpenter better than a piece worker,you still get paid when you screw up,we get back charged or go back and fix for free.
> -putting bead on for you is gravy work,you suddenly paid by the Ln.ft. ???
> -I'm from London area,did Hiawatha race track/casino in sarnia (union job) you union carpenters could not get the metal nor vinyl bead to run straight on 200 ft long bulk heads using chalk lines,string lines ,levels,etc.but this here taper did,done by my EYES and in ways that mudstar described in his post.
> -piece workers rule weather union or not,we half to find better,faster,ways and always half to do A 1 work,your stuck in the 1950's.but to you my points are stupid.
> -welcome to the site fellow canuck


Like i said i'm not here to argue with anyone if that's the way you do it ,that's cool with me....like i say to the guys at work....this is what it should look like when its done....and this is how i would do it....but you do it the easiest way for you ....

I have done some big jobs and im sure my company could use some different and faster ways to do things,that's why i'm here ...i don't know everything and things change daily.
But i have done some huge jobs toping manpower up to 50-75 guys for 12-18 months ....well where i live that's big work but maybe not in the states

anyway cheers to all your posts and off to work i go 

I love my job BTW :thumbsup:

live to work or work to live, you decide 

pce


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## proficient Mudder

I hope this trick will help while installing fiberglass insulation or during board hanging with insulation falling all over you.

Apply cornstarch or talcum powder (we use baby powder) to your arms and neck to prevent itching. 

try it, it works,
Bill


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## nickcruz

Keep a sharp knife and try not to use anything but a regular drywall knife unless you are prefer.check for framing issues,ceilings first(this should take two minutes)knock subfloor glue off Ibeam joist hangers,check if you need to start with smaller strip on ceiling to insure you don't land the joint on nothing but clean Ibeam/joist, aleast a foot away from anything like a beam,joist hanger or just a crappy spot with wood missing underneath.This job can be done with one guy in less then five minutes but over a minute.sometimes poly guys poly over nails and then your drywall hits them while hanging it thus the sheet becomes very hard to install and when it does there is a hole where the nail/screw is.Don,t use nails unless you can.They are cheeper installed properly end of story on that matter.Precutting your windows and doors will save on dust,increase your abillity to measure and most importantly decrese the workload .Be carfull when picking up precut if big.Have a big router on hand for cutting out the ones that would be to fragile to precut is nessesary.Use handsaw for doors,not the one in your pouch a biger one ,no dust two strokes.use atleast four even dabs of glue on intierier walls (more they better).Don't overthink tricky spots(plug away)bring your sheet close to where it need to be installed,then cut to fit.Smile and be happy because one guy needs one to two thousand installed drywall feet(20 to forty twelve foot sheets)in a nine hr day to make money.Be carfull when talking with homeowner Remember this is their dream home.


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## d-rock

We do super high end work union and non union. we use lasers and straight edges to put up beads. On a regular commercial or residential job we snap lines. we (carpenters) use tension pins or a finish nailer (16ga 80psi) to fasten the bead. On the high end jobs we traet the bead like crown molding. The supers walk around with 8' levels and plum-bobs to check the beads. we tried to make the tapers do it a bunch of times, fact is the beads always had waves like the atlantic ocean. i know all you finishers out there are gonna argue, but the level of finishing when architects, GC's, owner reps, designers etc, are scoping your work is MUCH more demanding.It'll make you feel like going back to school. Sometimes I miss doing houses in the burbs. So easy.


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## 2buckcanuck

but drywallone said he would send you home/back to shop if you used a laser,now I'm so confused:blink:


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## d-rock

2buckcanuck said:


> but drywallone said he would send you home/back to shop if you used a laser,now I'm so confused:blink:


LOL
i hear ya..On a typical commercial job, no need to go crazy with the beads. snap lines and bang'em on. eyeball it and walk away. On crazy high end work its a different story, and plenty of the high end work in NYC is union because some of the buildings (especially hotels) won't allow non union contractors to work in them. Often, we keep the framing back 1/8" to allow for finished dimensions for the beads, or we use Pittcon beads, which we cut with a miter saw. After the walls are taped (level4) the plasterers come in and run 6' screeds from the edge of the beads. the finished effect is that of a PERFECT boxed look. The plasterers spend weeks with spotlights, water and trowels, burnishing and perfecting. it's pure madness, expensive, but when it's done it looks AMAZING.


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## 2buckcanuck

I will give credit due wear credit is due,played both sides of the game (union vs non union)some of the stuff the carpenters knew blew me away in some of the union sites,some of the products and innovative ideas blew me away also (but you got the money)
what really disappointed me was the taping end,they are %^&**^%$## no good lazy $$%&&^% and I'm sure you wont dis agree with me.it's too bad we can't mix the 2 worlds,your hour working union and were p/w union.pains me to see how certain ethnic cultures can drive a price down,all this left right stuff can divide people.but this will start a political storm if i continue to type so


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## SlimPickins

SlimPickins' hanging tip of the day:

put a bevel on one side of your tight-fit sheets, and lead in with this edge. With a little bit of force, this bevel will give, instead of blowing out the other edge. This allows for super tight hanging, and the tapers will like you for it. Then, a little trim with a nice sharp blade. 

Please use paypal to donate and show your appreciation for this free drywall service announcement. We request that you make a minimum donation of $20-$2000. Thanks, and have a  day!


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> SlimPickins' hanging tip of the day:
> 
> put a bevel on one side of your tight-fit sheets, and lead in with this edge. With a little bit of force, this bevel will give, instead of blowing out the other edge. This allows for super tight hanging, and the tapers will like you for it. Then, a little trim with a nice sharp blade.
> 
> Please use paypal to donate and show your appreciation for this free drywall service announcement. We request that you make a minimum donation of $20-$2000. Thanks, and have a  day!


yes,send money,that way slim can mail it to the guy that tries this trick,to pay for his repairs:jester:
I have no idea what your talking about so....:blink:


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> yes,send money,that way slim can mail it to the guy that tries this trick,to pay for his repairs:jester:
> I have no idea what your talking about so....:blink:


Right, that way they have job security, because they have to keep going back to the same job


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## evolve991

SlimPickins said:


> SlimPickins' hanging tip of the day:
> 
> put a bevel on one side of your tight-fit sheets, and lead in with this edge. With a little bit of force, this bevel will give, instead of blowing out the other edge. This allows for super tight hanging, and the tapers will like you for it. Then, a little trim with a nice sharp blade.
> 
> Please use paypal to donate and show your appreciation for this free drywall service announcement. We request that you make a minimum donation of $20-$2000. Thanks, and have a  day!


 
Sooo basically give your butt joints a wedgie right? I suppose that would take out some of the 'clam shell' that USG butts are known for...but I have to wonder about the paper furling and fuzzling when you jam it together a little too hard. I once had a finisher claim he read in "The Manual" that you should leave an 1/8 inch gap for mud to fill better....needless to say we laughed in his face and made the next butt a 'pin joint' as usual:thumbsup:


----------



## Checkers

evolve991 said:


> Sooo basically give your butt joints a wedgie right? I suppose that would take out some of the 'clam shell' that USG butts are known for...but I have to wonder about the paper furling and fuzzling when you jam it together a little too hard. I once had a finisher claim he read in "The Manual" that you should leave an 1/8 inch gap for mud to fill better....needless to say we laughed in his face and made the next butt a 'pin joint' as usual:thumbsup:


I HATE when people think we want gaps in our hanging haha.
In Montana we do have to "V" our butt joints or else the paper curls though. "V"ing your butts actually is in the installation manual.


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## SlimPickins

evolve991 said:


> Sooo basically give your butt joints a wedgie right? I suppose that would take out some of the 'clam shell' that USG butts are known for...but I have to wonder about the paper furling and fuzzling when you jam it together a little too hard. I once had a finisher claim he read in "The Manual" that you should leave an 1/8 inch gap for mud to fill better....needless to say we laughed in his face and made the next butt a 'pin joint' as usual:thumbsup:


I was mostly suggesting that the wall side of the sheet be beveled, and when the paper crumbles a little bit, you can trim the fuzz off nice and clean, and still have two exceptionally tight joints. For v-cuts, I sharpen my blade often, and trim at most a 1/16th to an 1/8th (whatever it takes to get rid of the loose paper). Most tapers I know (does that include me?) despise pre-fill, so I remove as much of that process as possible.

The bevel method works really great when hanging little headers in a hallway (backside of small closet, etc.), especially if you leave the recess on one side. Then you can tap that puppy pretty hard if you need to without blowing out the rock. I know quite a few production guys who'll just caulk the backsides of closets (not me) if they're hung tight enough.


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## Drywall_King

Very Smart my old man showed me this trick it's called a four by the door.. haha some people think you dont know what your doing when they see the overhang on the doors. shows how much they know


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## Drywall_King

*some of dads tricks*

My old man is a drywall genious some tricks he has thought me are leave board hanging over at least 4 inches so the flusher head can go through we also V out butt joints and make sure any delamb is taken care of allways V out the edge of the drywall before your screw it a trick i use is to just do it wile the sheet is on the ground or after you cut it with the T-square, coat screws in a length not indavidule because when you sand it doesnt burn the board between the screws. allways try hard to only sand mudd not board. use no-coat 450 it's the cats ass always cut out anything broken or blowen out


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## muddermankc

*old school rock trick*

:thumbup:I got a cool trick, if u dont have a router with you,works good. When you have a circle cutout,cut a piece of rock 1/2 the size of hole,say 6 inch can cut smallpiece 3 inches wide.measure center of can,put nail in center mark just enough to hold strong,put knife on edge of small piece u cut and spin around nail,bang out with hammer. Works good dont think alot of people have seen it


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## ManleyConSer

Mostly good tips all I have to say is never use nails. There just there for job security. And the best statement here is that ALL hangers should be made to finish there hanging a few times! Heavy should always be used on a drywall job. Its no slower been sheetrocking north and south for years. And this will start a war I know! But Im originally from NY and I have not found one, not one, good finisher in the southern state that Im in and if you are a good one id like to meet you and shake your hand! No glue with all nails six inch cornerbeads, eight inch flats, twelve inch butts. Im not saying any of you do this but im sure youve seen it and if you do you need a different profession.


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## ManleyConSer

rocker7969 said:


> I'm only 5'7" and about 165lbs or so, and I hang 12' 54" rock all day w/ no problem. Hang the top sheet, then then bottom. The only way I'm able to do this easily is because I use a Senco self-feeding screw gun. I lift the top sheet up, hold it against the ceiling w/ one arm, then grab the self-feeder that's clipped on my tool belt and just tack the sheet up. Try this w/ a regular screwgun, and every damned time you get the sheet up and go to grab your gun, the screw falls off before you can tack the sheet. lol Guess it just takes practice and knowing what you're doing to be able to hang by yourself all the time.


 
Im also 5'7 but less than 150. I also do the same and use a regular screw gun. Just what your used to.


----------



## ManleyConSer

nickcruz said:


> Don't use drywall nails if you can't install them right .I use them on the outsides of sheets only because im twice as fast as any screw gun for cheeper. one box of screws for fiffty bucks will last 25 thousand feet and the nails about the same total 100 bucks all screws for the same footage 4.5 buckets of screws total 225.no brainer unless your a rookie who never could put a nail if they tried.stick with the screws if you want ?


 
I Nailed drywall with the best in the 70s and 80s I can nail extremely fast but screw guns can be used much faster. Learn how to use one and then repost.


----------



## ManleyConSer

d-rock said:


> We do super high end work union and non union. we use lasers and straight edges to put up beads. On a regular commercial or residential job we snap lines. we (carpenters) use tension pins or a finish nailer (16ga 80psi) to fasten the bead. On the high end jobs we traet the bead like crown molding. The supers walk around with 8' levels and plum-bobs to check the beads. we tried to make the tapers do it a bunch of times, fact is the beads always had waves like the atlantic ocean. i know all you finishers out there are gonna argue, but the level of finishing when architects, GC's, owner reps, designers etc, are scoping your work is MUCH more demanding.It'll make you feel like going back to school. Sometimes I miss doing houses in the burbs. So easy.


 
Unless your about two to three million high end is far from the words. I don't look at a job thats less than a million dollar home. Im not fighting with you but my finishers put up the beads and you come put your levels plumb bobs lasers and anything you want on there eyed beads and youll throw them in the garbage.


----------



## nickcruz

ManleyConSer said:


> I Nailed drywall with the best in the 70s and 80s I can nail extremely fast but screw guns can be used much faster. Learn how to use one and then repost. [/QUnails will go faster and faster and cheaper.I use screw kids to do that job .I dont have time to screw thats what I pay the kids for.they make 40.000 a year with me only putting in screws.learn how to nail and you can leave that job for the rookies while you do the important work.no brainer if you want to make over a hundred thousand a year.hanging.6 feet 200 pounds<Irarely use a self feeding screww gun unless im hanging just a small job.but i do have one just in case.I can load and screw faster then any selfload cause they jam unless you use brand new clips with screws .at ten buck a thousand i use them sparingly.sounds like you are a great screw guy.


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## nickcruz

:thumbsup:


ManleyConSer said:


> I Nailed drywall with the best in the 70s and 80s I can nail extremely fast but screw guns can be used much faster. Learn how to use one and then repost.


 sound like you a srew gun man I hire rookies for that job IM too busy to hold a srewgun I cut measure and hang only.learn how to teach kids to do the easy jobs you will make more money.then repost lol rookie.


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## SlimPickins

Wow, it sure smells like.......testosterone in here.


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## moore

ManleyConSer said:


> Mostly good tips all I have to say is never use nails. There just there for job security. And the best statement here is that ALL hangers should be made to finish there hanging a few times! Heavy should always be used on a drywall job. Its no slower been sheetrocking north and south for years. And this will start a war I know! But Im originally from NY and I have not found one, not one, good finisher in the southern state that Im in and if you are a good one id like to meet you and shake your hand! No glue with all nails six inch cornerbeads, eight inch flats, twelve inch butts. Im not saying any of you do this but im sure youve seen it and if you do you need a different profession.


 there are good finishers here and bad ones just like there are all over the nation! and Canada


----------



## nickcruz

Screws not sunk in the angels will do the same damage as a nail.each time I hear nail dont work I laugh at the guy who put that nail in.Nails are for pros with many houses under there belts and get hired on account of there reputation.I use all the reqired tools and matieral that gets the job done as fast and as I can.20 years in the biz I found out attatude is just as important as qwality when dealing with sombody whom gets you 100.000$ a year in work.If your boss says no nails then, thats easy don't use them, If the taper whines to your boss,you missed somthing.(PLUG),(crapfan),or somthing to that matter,still Its the boarders fault and can be backcharged if its more then a hrs work or anywhere near.make the tappers happy and you wont miss a days work .unless you live in Edmonton right now and the roads are so full of snow the drywall trucks are getting stuck and I use snowshoes to go to the corner store.


----------



## Saul_Surfaces

A flexible plastic mud pan for setting compound cleans out way easier than a metal pan. DeAnne at Advance got me hooked. All I do is let the setting mud set up, twist the pan like an ice cube tray, and presto! clean pan


----------



## nickcruz

*archie buda bender tricks.*

If I have flex board and the arch is a small buda (nitch)I will bend both at once if it is very tight cause they seem to bend better in two.Better yet If you have a contenental kit on your old super van ,use that to bend you half inch C,D it bends very nice with some H2o and peaple wonder what the heck you are doing rubbing drywall on your spare.


----------



## moore

corner beads are leveled out with compound. right??


----------



## burns

*crazy*

i dont know what this guys trying to tell people but bad on him



Mud Master said:


> ---When setting the depth of your screw gun, always do it on a piece of dunnage before production starts as opposed to on the wall during production.
> :thumbsup:your gun should be set from the last job
> 
> ---Never tack around any fixtures that you will later cut/route out. Do that after.
> :thumbsup: you should alway keep screws away from you fixtures
> 
> --Nail the edges, screw the field.
> :thumbsup: nails crap and should be banned from use with drywall
> 
> ---In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.
> :thumbsup::thumbsup: (residential) putting ahesive on both the drywall and the framing why not just put it on the framing then put your board up


----------



## burns

thats crap man nails are for hacks you arent even allowed to use them in my area because of all the problems they cause 
you cant sink a nail with out hitting the board unless you use a 3/8 hammer head and that sound more crazy then saying nails are for pros come to bc canada you would last till someone saw you using nail and you would be fired 
screw guns are for pros nails are for hacks 
put alberta full of nailing hacks 
ive seen tons of of crews come in a do one job then never get called 
they are all from alberta i feel bad for them 



nickcruz said:


> Screws not sunk in the angels will do the same damage as a nail.each time I hear nail dont work I laugh at the guy who put that nail in.Nails are for pros with many houses under there belts and get hired on account of there reputation.I use all the reqired tools and matieral that gets the job done as fast and as I can.20 years in the biz I found out attatude is just as important as qwality when dealing with sombody whom gets you 100.000$ a year in work.If your boss says no nails then, thats easy don't use them, If the taper whines to your boss,you missed somthing.(PLUG),(crapfan),or somthing to that matter,still Its the boarders fault and can be backcharged if its more then a hrs work or anywhere near.make the tappers happy and you wont miss a days work .unless you live in Edmonton right now and the roads are so full of snow the drywall trucks are getting stuck and I use snowshoes to go to the corner store.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

burns said:


> thats crap man nails are for hacks you arent even allowed to use them in my area because of all the problems they cause
> you cant sink a nail with out hitting the board unless you use a 3/8 hammer head and that sound more crazy then saying nails are for pros come to bc canada you would last till someone saw you using nail and you would be fired
> screw guns are for pros nails are for hacks
> put alberta full of nailing hacks
> ive seen tons of of crews come in a do one job then never get called
> they are all from alberta i feel bad for them


it's to each his own Grass hopper,nickcuz is 20 years in this biz,and thats what works for him,I'm 30 years,and there's others on here longer than that.and something tells me he is better than you.#1 trying to get along with the other trades.
maybe you should talk to your cgc (usg) representative before you proclaim yours is the only way.Some GC prefer nails for they won't strip like a screw in the bevell,plus you can toe nail around door ways which is stronger than a screw.and in Ontario,they use nails,so I guess we all suck too,
you going to wish me to drop dead in this post too, youngbuck


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> it's to each his own Grass hopper,nickcuz is 20 years in this biz,and thats what works for him,I'm 30 years,and there's others on here longer than that.and something tells me he is better than you.#1 trying to get along with the other trades.
> maybe you should talk to your cgc (usg) representative before you proclaim yours is the only way.Some GC prefer nails for they won't strip like a screw in the bevell,plus you can toe nail around door ways which is stronger than a screw.and in Ontario,they use nails,so I guess we all suck too,
> you going to wish me to drop dead in this post too, youngbuck


 You just had to bring up the "old" guy thing didn't ya???? LOL

I remember trying to get GC's to let me use screws in the field,,,, their response was, "I'll think about it,,, but go ahead and nail this one off).

Talk about old,,, I refuse to use screws on the permiter,,, and IF I had my way,,, I'd prefer to use nails 100%. 

I will not glue anything,, I refuse too, If they want to get someone else to glue the back piece of paper to the wall, they are welcome too. At least a nail is driven through the rock LOL.

I know you guys think Im nuts,,, but so did my 3 ex-wives !!! and what the heck did they know???


----------



## SlimPickins

burns said:


> screw guns are for pros nails are for hacks


Finally, someone is telling me the truth....I AM a hack!:thumbsup: 



(we need a middle finger smiley)


----------



## carpentaper

i see lots of guys using nails here in bc.


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## 2buckcanuck

carpentaper said:


> i see lots of guys using nails here in bc.


then those drywallers suck,they don't use screws like burns:whistling2::jester:


----------



## uwing

Nails should just be banned in all trades.


----------



## uwing

Well, not all but most


----------



## Workaholic

SlimPickins said:


> Finally, someone is telling me the truth....I AM a hack!:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> (we need a middle finger smiley)


lol

Steal one of these.


----------



## nickcruz

burns said:


> thats crap man nails are for hacks you arent even allowed to use them in my area because of all the problems they cause
> you cant sink a nail with out hitting the board unless you use a 3/8 hammer head and that sound more crazy then saying nails are for pros come to bc canada you would last till someone saw you using nail and you would be fired
> screw guns are for pros nails are for hacks
> put alberta full of nailing hacks
> ive seen tons of of crews come in a do one job then never get called
> they are all from alberta i feel bad for them


I started In bc for benny shults. anyboby from bc knows this man.I worked in shawnisy area all the time cause the houses were big.best gun was a tank at best you had to nail cause the ten pound gun was to heavy for most guys(cows)It was very easy to get a job in 92 cause nobody could do it there. they were all in grow opps and stuff.your area is dead now and im glad im gone from that wet, godforsaken place.Now burnsy we all know your a rookie cause of your statments about work and how your the drywall mafia in bc.If you think B.C has better workers then some other place you problly think you got a stanely cup too ..Poor cunnucklehead is smoking his own grass.


----------



## SlimPickins

Workaholic said:


> lol
> 
> Steal one of these.


Thanks man... The last one is the best!


----------



## nickcruz

uwing said:


> Nails should just be banned in all trades.[/QUOTEWhen i t-bar I have to deal with guys like you.lol opps I left the t-sqare agains the wall again ...Its ok tho touch up guys are upstairs and they are girls wohoo smiles.chew it painter this is drywall country.


----------



## Kiwiman

Workaholic said:


> lol
> 
> Steal one of these.


Dang, how do I get them onto my posts, I was trying to give 2Buck the finger for taking the p1ss out of us Kiwi's and I couldn't get it to work .


----------



## moore

I just had a moment of clarity . I AM A HACK! bless you all.:help:


----------



## moore

Kiwiman said:


> Dang, how do I get them onto my posts, I was trying to give 2Buck the finger for taking the p1ss out of us Kiwi's and I couldn't get it to work .


smiley central??


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> smiley central??


SSShhhhhh!!!! don't feed the kiwi's:no::tt2:


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> SSShhhhhh!!!! don't feed the kiwi's:no::tt2:



Hey 2Buck....Watch the birdee !!!
[url=http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys.php]
[/URL]


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Kiwiman said:


> Hey 2Buck....Watch the birdee !!!
> http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-finger007.gif


LOL,LOL,I'm stealing that one thank you
OH slim,I got a new smiley:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> LOL,LOL,I'm stealing that one thank you
> OH slim,I got a new smiley:yes:


 shoot...you beat me to it! but now I got it too!


----------



## moore

would all you hangers PLEASE keep fresh bits in your roto zips. when there clean there clean. when there dull , lots of CLEAN up for me. change your bits .


----------



## Checkers

moore said:


> would all you hangers PLEASE keep fresh bits in your roto zips. when there clean there clean. when there dull , lots of CLEAN up for me. change your bits .


Huh? A bit is a bit man, it's all technique. The duller the better for wood.


----------



## moore

Checkers said:


> Huh? A bit is a bit man, it's all technique. The duller the better for wood.


whats all the trash around windows/doors/ boxes all about? i got to clean that s#ht up at the end . ,,,,,,,,,,,,, buy new bits . add it to the bill , i don't mind.:ban:


----------



## moore

Capt-sheetrock said:


> You just had to bring up the "old" guy thing didn't ya???? LOL
> 
> I remember trying to get GC's to let me use screws in the field,,,, their response was, "I'll think about it,,, but go ahead and nail this one off).
> 
> Talk about old,,, I refuse to use screws on the permiter,,, and IF I had my way,,, I'd prefer to use nails 100%.
> 
> I will not glue anything,, I refuse too, If they want to get someone else to glue the back piece of paper to the wall, they are welcome too. At least a nail is driven through the rock LOL.
> 
> I know you guys think Im nuts,,, but so did my 3 ex-wives !!! and what the heck did they know???


What other reasons for no glue capt . i'm not nockin ya. i use it, but have good reasons not too! just curious .


----------



## Drywall_King

he likes nail pops, egg holes filling 3 times and then burning the board sanding the piss out of his egg holes and heavy nail coating.. it was the style at the time haha


----------



## moore

is the egghole a blistered nail?


----------



## moore

i wont hang rock ,or have rock hung without glue. osi . not that liquid nails ,green sh#t . don't get me started on the tree huggers . 1 tube per 5 sheets give or take. BUT. it does cause problems with the seams. [ i call them flats] for gods sake never glue the butts. a good hanger that knows how to use glue is a great hanger. glue can HELP to fix a really bad framing job. :hang:


----------



## moore

Drywall_King said:


> he likes nail pops, egg holes filling 3 times and then burning the board sanding the piss out of his egg holes and heavy nail coating.. it was the style at the time haha


thats f/n funny!


----------



## evolve991

moore said:


> i wont hang rock ,or have rock hung without glue. osi . not that liquid nails ,green sh#t . don't get me started on the tree huggers . 1 tube per 5 sheets give or take. BUT. it does cause problems with the seams. [ i call them flats] for gods sake never glue the butts. a good hanger that knows how to use glue is a great hanger. glue can HELP to fix a really bad framing job. :hang:


:thumbsup: Nails and screws simply hold the sheets til the glue dries. The "Urban Legend" about ceiling sheets falling on people is no legend. If you believe glue only holds the paper try this: glue a couple studs and screw,not nail, a piece up...go to lunch,have a smoke break,drink a cup of coffee...whatever...come back to it in about 15 minutes to half an hour....now back out the screws and pull the piece off the wall. Then go find your wonder bar or chisel and clean the damn studs off so you can get back to work before someone trows ya a beatin'. 

Nails: Nails are crucial unless you have more than a 2 man team to tack the sheet in place nice and tight.Maybe a gap doesn't bug you but it does me. Nail the perimeters OR just tack a few in the corners or along the top edge,whichever YOU the PRO prefers...leave quoting the manual to wannabees and desk jockeys. Put a nail in the field and you can either put a screw or 2 next to(do NOT cap it) to pull the sheet tight then reset that nail....or just pack your tools and get off my job.

Screws: Screws are great in the field and in some,thats SOME,butt joints if the lumber isn't garbage/the joist doesn't run diagonal/it breaks on wide TJIs or you aren't catching just the edge of the stud. Screws in the field pull the rock tight as opposed to nailing a depression that meets the wood leaving the sheet to float past the framing. Never cap a screw with another screw or anything else for that matter....they are bugle headed for a reason. 

Butt boards or "screwers": Using a piece of wood or the pre-made type gives you a much better butt joint. It makes the lousy framing,wavy joists or crown downs irrelevant. It leaves a valley that mud will fill easily and when the place settles it wont pop the nails or screws. You can use whatever sheet length you wish and do away with the PITA that cheap GCs cause with that stupid 19 1/2" center found in lots of basement ceilings these days. Despite what the know-it-alls say cutting every 12 footer down to 134 inches WILL F up your sheet count.

Corner nailers: If you have the pleasure of hanging for a builder who allows the framers to put pieces of scrap wood horizontally instead of a true stud in the corner Do NOT nail them. Maybe MAYBE screw them if they are actually FLUSH. If you have a corner where these are on one wall and the other has a real nailer then hang the trashy one first and butt the good one to it. Glue the 'slats' if you can. These 'nailers' never follow the plates or the rest of the studs and will cause the corners to belly in or out.

I would not hang drywall if screw guns and routers were never invented. I started hanging in 86 with a guy who nailed off, keyholed boxes and back cut windows. Man did those jobs look trashy.


----------



## moore

von.Awesome said:


> i never nail the edges ever thats for old timers lol however we used grabber glue on all interior walls... meaning not the ones with vapor barrier. just dab a glob of glue at about 16 and 32 inches at every stud except the butts or around boxes, as it is messy while you router. then simply screw the perimeter as you would and put 2 screws about 2 inches away from each other in the center of the sheet every 2 studs ish. get your helper to get the glue on the wall while you cut and measure the sheet... i have no idea what a ripper is... and we dont use glue in commercial as it is usually steel stud... i dont think glue goes on that... but it might!


a ripper is a tool that rips the rock up to 6'' . nails/ screws/ staples . no matter what you use. within a year the lumber in a new home shrinks, and causes problems no matter what fastener you use. metal studs are mostly commercial . no glue on metal studs , so that walls canbe removed later. in case of new tenant change around. [ding ding moo ding ding moo ]


----------



## moore

i've had tear outs before. glued sheet rock is HELL to get off. it serves it's purpose .


----------



## smisner50s

Glued and screwed..plus glue will bridge gapes and help screws from poping if lumber moves


----------



## evolve991

smisner50s said:


> Glued and screwed..plus glue will bridge gapes and help screws from poping if lumber moves


:thumbup: you got it!! Oh..another tip from an "old timer"....take care of those elbows ...you young bucks might think you're superman...and ya might laugh at the old hangers complaining about thier arms killin'em...I know I did....now mine feel like a ball joint with no lube left...Glucosamine(what the athletes use) and Fish Oil...start taking it NOW..... and wear elbow supports...wish I'd listened then...


----------



## rox smart

...this tip only pertains to hanging ceiling sheets manually. when i learned how to hang, i was told to always put my first screw in at the rolled edge that buts to the previously hung sheet, and then continue to put screws in the ends, about 4 usually, until the sheet or your end of the sheet is secure. so basically putting two screws in the rolled edge by previous sheet and two screws on the opposite side. over time i have come to find (though some people get a bit edgy when i do this) that when hanging 12' or 14' 5/8 or 1/2 on ceilings (using two people) i can simply put my first screw in about 16" from the rolled edge, after this first screw you can release some of the pressure you are using to hold the sheet. i then put my next screw 16" from the rolled edge on the next stud over though on the opposite end of the sheet. at this point i can let go and continue to screw away. this relies heavily on having faith that the guy on the other end of the sheet isn't flailing around and fumbling trying to hold his end up. this method has saved me so much stress on my body and increases the speed of the workflow. especially with the band of the sheets spinning screws out so often. as well, stay focused on your body mechanics. i see too many guys out their jacking their asses out like some playboy model in a photoshoot...tighten your core and keep your ass pulled towards your cock.


----------



## igorson

I had job where i *install Sheetrock* over concrete i just glue them with liquid nails to concrete and save time/money for framing.

http://1drywall.com


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

*fractions simplified*

For those not already using this method it goes like this....
forget about measuring in fractions 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
read these off your tape as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 
a measurement like 28 1/2 becomes 28 -4 
When writing this down you put the line under the 4 so you know its a fraction. Its makes remembering groups of numbers alot easier. I usually can keep around 6 or 7 measurements in my head without writing on a piece of scrap to take to the stack.


----------



## SlimPickins

P.A. ROCKER said:


> For those not already using this method it goes like this....
> forget about measuring in fractions 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
> read these off your tape as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
> a measurement like 28 1/2 becomes 28 -4
> When writing this down you put the line under the 4 so you know its a fraction. Its makes remembering groups of numbers alot easier. I usually can keep around 6 or 7 measurements in my head without writing on a piece of scrap to take to the stack.


That's pretty handy.....


----------



## cdwoodcox

P.A. ROCKER said:


> For those not already using this method it goes like this....
> forget about measuring in fractions 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
> read these off your tape as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
> a measurement like 28 1/2 becomes 28 -4
> When writing this down you put the line under the 4 so you know its a fraction. Its makes remembering groups of numbers alot easier. I usually can keep around 6 or 7 measurements in my head without writing on a piece of scrap to take to the stack.


That's the way I was taught also. very handy. Unless your working with another tradesman and you want a 20 and 2 and they bring you a 22.


----------



## gazman

P.A. ROCKER said:


> For those not already using this method it goes like this....
> forget about measuring in fractions 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
> read these off your tape as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
> a measurement like 28 1/2 becomes 28 -4
> When writing this down you put the line under the 4 so you know its a fraction. Its makes remembering groups of numbers alot easier. I usually can keep around 6 or 7 measurements in my head without writing on a piece of scrap to take to the stack.


Easy go metric and loose the fractions.:thumbsup:


----------



## Kiwiman




----------



## SlimPickins

P.A. ROCKER said:


> For those not already using this method it goes like this....
> forget about measuring in fractions 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
> read these off your tape as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
> a measurement like 28 1/2 becomes 28 -4
> When writing this down you put the line under the 4 so you know its a fraction. Its makes remembering groups of numbers alot easier. I usually can keep around 6 or 7 measurements in my head without writing on a piece of scrap to take to the stack.


How about when you need/want a sixteenth? Just call out a "heavy", so 28 9/16 becomes 28-4-heavy, and you just write a plus next to the 4. I know, I know....drywallers never need a sixteenth :laughing: (at least according to some of the chucklenubbers that I've had the delight of working with over the years).

The only problem with calling out the eighths is that you get so accustomed to it that it's a difficult to re-learn how to call numbers when working carpentry gigs....especially finish carpentry when you can deal in 32nds, 48ths, and 64ths :blink:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

gazman said:


> Easy go metric and loose the fractions.:thumbsup:


 Let me ask ya... do they mark 16" centers on a metric tape? I'd be for metric if the construction industry would adopt it as a whole. 
I know, we're lagging behind in this country. At least the auto industry got on board. It would be a good laugh if I took a metric tape to work and started giving numbers and acted like it was normal.


----------



## gazman

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Let me ask ya... do they mark 16" centers on a metric tape? I'd be for metric if the construction industry would adopt it as a whole.
> I know, we're lagging behind in this country. At least the auto industry got on board. It would be a good laugh if I took a metric tape to work and started giving numbers and acted like it was normal.


Gday P.A ROCKER.
Not real sure about your question, but we use the tape to mark 450mm centers.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

savant said:


> A "ripper" is usually a familiar way of referring to a strip of rock ripped lengthwise from a sheet. I often refer to a circular saw as a "spinsaw" It's faster and easier to pronounce when you're fatigued.
> 
> Putting it in the middle keeps the hump away from trim, and gives you enough room on either side to feather it out properly.


AAAhh the "belly-band" ... it's a beautiful thing.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

Mud Master said:


> Got plenty for finishing...but lemme see what I can come up with..
> 
> When setting the depth of your screw gun, always do it on a piece of dunnage before production starts as opposed to on the wall during production.
> 
> Never tack around any fixtures that you will later cut/route out. Do that after.
> 
> Nail the edges, screw the field.
> 
> In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.
> 
> When dealing with ceilings hieghts that are "odd"(8'3 for example), measure and hang so that your ripper goes in the middle of the wall, and not at the top or bottom.
> 
> Oh, when cutting cementboard..WHERE A MASK!!
> 
> 
> That's all for now, I am sure I will add to later.
> 
> Your Turn....


 
All good advise ... be sure to push those electrical wires to the back of the box before reaming, routing, rotozipping.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

savant said:


> If you have a *lot *of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.
> 
> It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.


I was rendering services as a consultant to GRABBER/MAGACON, working with technology called the MAGAFORM 300 System that relates to your addition to Tricks of the Trade. I worked with the machine, did time studies and cost comparison of the Magacon method and conventional methods.

In the interest of bringing awareness of a new technology that is in keeping with your philosophy of being on the cutting edge of best practices and new leading edge building techniques that enhance "human driven systems", add value, reduce costs, and lend themselves to not only claiming more market share but also expanding your market ... please invest the time to consider the potential that this system offers.


*Link to* DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS 

Please take the time to click on the lick above and gain access to an opportunity to be introduced to the latest in DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS innovation. By *clicking on the "arrow around the circle" icon* in the *lower right hand corner of the webpage*, you will experience the simplicity of genius that facilitates the realization of cost effective complex drywall profiles . By *clicking on the "film strip" icon to the right of the "arrow around the circle" icon*, you will experience the Magaform 3000 in operation ... quite the experience. Let me know what you think.


----------



## fr8train

:blink: That was mind blowing!


----------



## moore

cutting rock with a skill saw???:blink: that's mind blowing.


----------



## M T Buckets Painting

I once had to install trim-tex crown moulding with a 6", 4" and 2" rip with chamfer stop on them under the crown. Kind of a stacked beehive look. Anyway, myself and another guy ran the pieces through a table saw, we fed the pieces through the saw backwards. I used the same method when making can light boxes on a big condo bldg. Table saw works great. Just remember to give your helper the dusty side of the saw. When running the pieces in backwards the dusty side would be the outfeed side.


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

*Link to* DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS

Please take the time to click on the lick above and gain access to an opportunity to be introduced to the latest in DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS innovation. By *clicking on the "arrow around the circle" icon*in the *lower right hand corner of the webpage*, you will experience the simplicity of genius that facilitates the realization of cost effective complex drywall profiles . By *clicking on the "film strip" icon to the right of the "arrow around the circle" icon*, you will experience the Magaform 3000 in operation ... quite the experience. Let me know what you think. 




Woulden't mind taking it for a ride. Cutting edge for sure. I'd be afraid trac home builders would want more details for the same money and eventually it would become common place. As far as customs go they usually pay for extras. Whats the price tag on that unit? Thanks for sharing.











[/QUOTE]


----------



## gazman

Thats cool but not to dificult to replicate. It is only a router with a V groove bit, a 90 deg and a 45 deg. The rig it runs on is sweet though.


----------



## SlimPickins

I was reading about that machine in Walls & Ceilings a few months back...it's nuts. For larger companies I can see it really changing things....the animation was super cool.:cool2:


----------



## moore

Super cool.. will never work ..


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

gazman said:


> Thats cool but not to dificult to replicate. It is only a router with a V groove bit, a 90 deg and a 45 deg. The rig it runs on is sweet though.


The vacuum system is da ting! The 90 degree and 45 degree bits are actually 91 degree and 46 degree to allow for primer and glue. Check out some of the shapes I made ... profile photo album. Time stops when your using it ... you can get lost in the possibilities.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Look Ma ... no beads.*



Nothing but drywall .... cut, milled, primed, and glued with the Magaform 3000 ...


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Zig Zag Zoffits*










Ridged cut, milled, primed, glued, and folded profiles ... simple and complex with no cornerbead to finish ... inside corners can be caulked.


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## moore

Just don't bump into it ,,,you be alright:whistling2:


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## 800PoundGuerrilla

A commercial window return made out of one piece of drywall ... it's what's for dinner. Come and get it.


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## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Radii Delecti*










Wavy Gravy ... think about it ... a Drywall Mill Shop ... or have machine will travel. I've been setting it up on larger jobs that are loaded with soffit profiles, drops, light pockets ... this thing was made for Casino work, hotels, restaurants, museums, etc., etc., etc.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Don't Bogart that Drywall Joint*


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*A Drywall Temple for Drywall Gods*


----------



## moore

Impressive YES,,, practical,,,NO ,, not unless your working on a trump job.
way overkill for residential work....... don't bump into it..


----------



## JustMe

Field General said:


> Wavy Gravy ... think about it ... a Drywall Mill Shop ... or have machine will travel. I've been setting it up on larger jobs that are loaded with soffit profiles, drops, light pockets ... this thing was made for Casino work, hotels, restaurants, museums, etc., etc., etc.





Field General said:


>


 Very interesting. Just how sturdy are the forms made this way?


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## 2buckcanuck

Field General said:


> Wavy Gravy ... think about it ... a Drywall Mill Shop ... or have machine will travel. I've been setting it up on larger jobs that are loaded with soffit profiles, drops, light pockets ... this thing was made for Casino work, hotels, restaurants, museums, etc., etc., etc.


Welcome to DWT field General

I was wondering, say you had a 100 foot long bulk head, how are you concealing the joints, are you doing some type of fancy miter cut or something, I could see taping it wrecking the over all look of it, or should I say a really bad taper could wreck a nice smooth looking bulk head.

I hope you understand what I'm talking about, My only example I can think of would be trying to hide a joint in pre- manufactured drywall cove. the taping would stand out or be too proud .

Awesome system :thumbsup:


----------



## gazman

2buckcanuck said:


> Welcome to DWT field General
> 
> I was wondering, say you had a 100 foot long bulk head, how are you concealing the joints, are you doing some type of fancy miter cut or something, I could see taping it wrecking the over all look of it, or should I say a really bad taper could wreck a nice smooth looking bulk head.
> 
> I hope you understand what I'm talking about, My only example I can think of would be trying to hide a joint in pre- manufactured drywall cove. the taping would stand out or be too proud .
> 
> Awesome system :thumbsup:


That does look awsome and the more you think about it the greater the possibilities.
Here is a link to some cornice profiles that we use.
http://www.gyprock.com.au/ourproducts/products/cornice.aspx
With these to join them we cut a mitre and use cornice cement NO TAPE.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'*



JustMe said:


> Very interesting. Just how sturdy are the forms made this way?


The first thing people do with something that is claimed to be durable is pull, poke, prod, and push it to the point of failure. The gypsum fails before the joints do. I've had this thing in the back of my pick up while traveling and it's experienced rain, extreme heat and cold, and high winds ... I've dropped this off with contractors, board yards, architects, and CMs who have been consistent with behaviors described in the first sentence, and I've still got it and I'm still using it. As for the practicality of the concept, alot of details end up on the architect's drawing room floor because of budget constraints ... imagine being the guy who could offer cost effective upgraded design that didn't break the bank.:tank::tank:Tanks for askin'.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

2buckcanuck said:


> Welcome to DWT field General
> 
> I was wondering, say you had a 100 foot long bulk head, how are you concealing the joints, are you doing some type of fancy miter cut or something, I could see taping it wrecking the over all look of it, or should I say a really bad taper could wreck a nice smooth looking bulk head.
> 
> I hope you understand what I'm talking about, My only example I can think of would be trying to hide a joint in pre- manufactured drywall cove. the taping would stand out or be too proud .
> 
> Awesome system :thumbsup:


Weak side first, then strong side ... I've been barkin' those words for too long and still see guys doing just the opposite. Commercial butt joints are a pain in the butt and have you grabbin' your joint because of a lack of understanding of how to hang on steel stud framing. These profiles are installed, breaking the sheets in the stud bay, not on the stud, producing a flat install to begin with. Taping by cutting the tape short about 1/4" to 3/8" from the outside corner, coating conventionally, and finishing by sweeping the outside corner produces one beautiful butt. For those who are butt challenged, I've been experimenting with gluing the joints, and also, V-grooving the joints about a 1/2" and then taping with 1/2" tape that sets at the same level as the facer paper ... awesome. :tank::tank: Tanks for askin'.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

*Pennsylvania*



P.A. ROCKER said:


> *Link to* DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS
> 
> Please take the time to click on the lick above and gain access to an opportunity to be introduced to the latest in DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS innovation. By *clicking on the "arrow around the circle" icon*in the *lower right hand corner of the webpage*, you will experience the simplicity of genius that facilitates the realization of cost effective complex drywall profiles . By *clicking on the "film strip" icon to the right of the "arrow around the circle" icon*, you will experience the Magaform 3000 in operation ... quite the experience. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woulden't mind taking it for a ride. Cutting edge for sure. I'd be afraid trac home builders would want more details for the same money and eventually it would become common place. As far as customs go they usually pay for extras. Whats the price tag on that unit? Thanks for sharing.
> 
> 
> I


[/QUOTE]

I am also from the great state of Pennsylvania, where industry was born in America. I will be in Atlantic City on Monday and Tuesday, performing a demonstration for the Revel Casino and Resort ... after that, who knows. I saw from some of your posts that you are familiar with contractors in the Lancaster/Harrisburg area. I've pieced worked for them all ... Who knows, maybe I'll be "playing at a theater" near you soon.

A little background ... I started out as a pieceworker, then "Have Brain and Back, Will Travel" "project catalyst", then I had to ruin it all by incorporating and becoming a commercial carpentry company, then while working for some developers on the Main Line, I was told by them that "things are going to get real bad before they get worse" so I put the contracting on moth balls and started looking for something to do that leveraged my experiences and love of solving problems and the construction industry as a whole. Now I'm doing productivity consulting and product representation which involves research and development of means and methods and allows me to travel and talk with the guys who make things happen who are feeling the strain and pain of not much happening. I've been through economic down turns before ... first rule of a crisis ... do not panic ... second, stay situational aware ... third, where there's a pile pony manure there's a pony in there somewhere ... keep looking for it. :tank::tank: Tanks for askin'.


----------



## JustMe

Field General said:


> Taping by cutting the tape short about 1/4" to 3/8" from the outside corner, coating conventionally, and finishing by sweeping the outside corner produces one beautiful butt. For those who are butt challenged, I've been experimenting with gluing the joints, and also, V-grooving the joints about a 1/2" and then taping with 1/2" tape that sets at the same level as the facer paper ... awesome.


Maybe v-ing in (the 45 minute) Vario and a tape on top for 'security' - but not so it's quite flush and can be coated over - might be another possible?

Vario threads:

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/joint-compound-testers-needed-743/

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/review-vario-tapeless-mud-824/


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

I am also from the great state of Pennsylvania, where industry was born in America. I will be in Atlantic City on Monday and Tuesday, performing a demonstration for the Revel Casino and Resort ... after that, who knows. I saw from some of your posts that you are familiar with contractors in the Lancaster/Harrisburg area. I've pieced worked for them all ... Who knows, maybe I'll be "playing at a theater" near you soon.

A little background ... I started out as a pieceworker, then "Have Brain and Back, Will Travel" "project catalyst", then I had to ruin it all by incorporating and becoming a commercial carpentry company, then while working for some developers on the Main Line, I was told by them that "things are going to get real bad before they get worse" so I put the contracting on moth balls and started looking for something to do that leveraged my experiences and love of solving problems and the construction industry as a whole. Now I'm doing productivity consulting and product representation which involves research and development of means and methods and allows me to travel and talk with the guys who make things happen who are feeling the strain and pain of not much happening. I've been through economic down turns before ... first rule of a crisis ... do not panic ... second, stay situational aware ... third, where there's a pile pony manure there's a pony in there somewhere ... keep looking for it. :tank::tank: Tanks for askin'.[/QUOTE]
I guess that means nobody can affors it.:clap:


----------



## JustMe

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I guess that means nobody can affors it.:clap:


If you're talking about the Magaform 3000, I'm wondering what the ballpark $ figure is on it.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

carpentaper said:


> i see lots of guys using nails here in bc.



nails are just to tack the Roc to the wall and a few in angles, see'n how tape and glue mud are holding down your angle anyhoo


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## moore

Bazooka-Joe said:


> nails are just to tack the Roc to the wall and a few in angles, see'n how tape and glue mud are holding down your angle anyhoo


What's glue mud? :blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> What's glue mud? :blink:


I think its the stuff 2buck was talking about,,,,:thumbup:


----------



## moore

Why should I add glue to my mud :blink: I have enough to contend with as it is , Now I gotta add glue to my mud ,jeez ,,,OK,,,I'll try It.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> Why should I add glue to my mud :blink: I have enough to contend with as it is , Now I gotta add glue to my mud ,jeez ,,,OK,,,I'll try It.


Don't bother,,, it don't help


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> Why should I add glue to my mud :blink: I have enough to contend with as it is , Now I gotta add glue to my mud ,jeez ,,,OK,,,I'll try It.


You, moore......will love adding glue to stuff. I've been adding Superbond for a while now, and I'm about to switch over to Acro concrete adhesive.....much cheaper, and comes in a gallon container instead of a pint. I think they're all relatively the same (PVA), that's all Elmer's is too. Acro might be a little different though....that stuff sticks real good-like (and HARD). Awesome on patches over paint:thumbsup:

The glue is a step up (and good insurance) for hot-mud guys. Adds hardness and stickiness to the mud. It does NOT come off metal. It does NOT come off of anything.


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## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Don't bother,,, it don't help


:tt2:


----------



## harvey randall

glue the field with OSI- been glueing rock for 20 years in utah. no problems- play catch up.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

harvey randall said:


> glue the field with OSI- been glueing rock for 20 years in utah. no problems- play catch up.


 Ya need to read the WHOLE thread !!!!,,,,:thumbup:


----------



## SlimPickins

Here's a trick I tried out today when hanging a lidded stairwell (by the way, I always hang walls first, then tight fit the lid....much better odds of having nice tight angles that way:thumbsup......

Line laser. I set it at 24" above landing height to span the rim joist, and hung the sheet in the middle of the stairwell first. Total set up time: 2 minutes. Take numbers: 2-3 minutes. All seams/butts tight as all get out with the bonus of hanging the toughest sheets first:thumbup: Then, with a little foresight all sheets were splits. 4 12's, 2 8's (to cover 16 feet of rise), and only 2 10" butts left over. The line laser was helpful in determining (quickly) the top and bottom 48 marks without snapping lines and praying for something resembling level. I think each of those starter sheets had 10 numbers. It's funny, once you start using that line laser you find a million other ways to use it to make your life easier.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

SlimPickins said:


> Here's a trick I tried out today when hanging a lidded stairwell (by the way, I always hang walls first, then tight fit the lid....much better odds of having nice tight angles that way:thumbsup......
> 
> Line laser. I set it at 24" above landing height to span the rim joist, and hung the sheet in the middle of the stairwell first. Total set up time: 2 minutes. Take numbers: 2-3 minutes. All seams/butts tight as all get out with the bonus of hanging the toughest sheets first:thumbup: Then, with a little foresight all sheets were splits. 4 12's, 2 8's (to cover 16 feet of rise), and only 2 10" butts left over. The line laser was helpful in determining (quickly) the top and bottom 48 marks without snapping lines and praying for something resembling level. I think each of those starter sheets had 10 numbers. It's funny, once you start using that line laser you find a million other ways to use it to make your life easier.


Slim,,,, your one sick puppy !!!!!!


----------



## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Slim,,,, your one sick puppy !!!!!!


Well, to be fair to myself, I was able to rest one end on the landing so I wasn't just trying to hold it out in the middle of nowhere:whistling2:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

I CAN'T UNDERSTAND YOU FELLOWS,,,,,,,,,

I wouldn't take a laser to work,,,,, maybe to an orgy,,,,, but not to work,,,,


Jeezeee,,, its just drywall guys!!!!!!


----------



## moore

SlimPickins said:


> Here's a trick I tried out today when hanging a lidded stairwell (by the way, I always hang walls first, then tight fit the lid....much better odds of having nice tight angles that way:thumbsup......
> 
> Line laser. I set it at 24" above landing height to span the rim joist, and hung the sheet in the middle of the stairwell first. Total set up time: 2 minutes. Take numbers: 2-3 minutes. All seams/butts tight as all get out with the bonus of hanging the toughest sheets first:thumbup: Then, with a little foresight all sheets were splits. 4 12's, 2 8's (to cover 16 feet of rise), and only 2 10" butts left over. The line laser was helpful in determining (quickly) the top and bottom 48 marks without snapping lines and praying for something resembling level. I think each of those starter sheets had 10 numbers. It's funny, once you start using that line laser you find a million other ways to use it to make your life easier.


good lord man ...I'm exhausted .. Just hang it!!:notworthy:


----------



## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I CAN'T UNDERSTAND YOU FELLOWS,,,,,,,,,
> 
> I wouldn't take a laser to work,,,,, maybe to an orgy,,,,, but not to work,,,,
> 
> 
> Jeezeee,,, its just drywall guys!!!!!!


Aren't you ALWAYS the guy talking about horses and trucks and beating your cat against the wall?

Here's why I have a laser in my drywall arsenal.


concrete floors 2" out of whack
2 walls, a floor and a ceiling with no 90 degree angles
straight bead lines in situations where an eyeball won't do
and now trickier stairways
Other uses:



Cutting in a window in a remodel to match the other existing windows
laying track or bottom/top plates
building soffits
building plumb door frames (in both planes)
etc, etc
If you've got the tool, why not use it? It's not like I'm using it to make sure my tape joints are perfectly in line (although chances are they will be............................)


----------



## 2buckcanuck

I think the question is weather you need one for drywalling. Maybe a rare circumstances in commercial work, but one for shacking

Over board


----------



## moore

:blink:And I'm Mr. overkill?


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I think the question is weather you need one for drywalling. Maybe a rare circumstances in commercial work, but one for shacking
> 
> Over board


I could argue with you, but I'm not going to bother as I can see that your mind is made up. 

Here's something I'm learning while being a member of this forum (among other things):

A large percentage of guys on here seem to be totally content to keep on doing just what they're doing. And then some of them want to call it "art" or "craftsmanship". Personally, I find drywall-as-usual a mental flat-line. I NEED to make it interesting, and easier.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I could argue with you, but I'm not going to


Why NOT !!!!!!


----------



## moore

SlimPickins said:


> I could argue with you, but I'm not going to bother as I can see that your mind is made up.
> 
> Here's something I'm learning while being a member of this forum (among other things):
> 
> A large percentage of guys on here seem to be totally content to keep on doing just what they're doing. And then some of them want to call it "art" or "craftsmanship". Personally, I find drywall-as-usual a mental flat-line. I NEED to make it interesting, and easier.






among other things WE can't spell??


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Why NOT !!!!!!


Because you'll win, and then I'll need to post all of those crying smileys myself.



moore said:


> among other things WE can't spell??


I didn't say anything about your speeling, did I?


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

SlimPickins said:


> I could argue with you, but I'm not going to bother as I can see that your mind is made up.
> 
> Here's something I'm learning while being a member of this forum (among other things):
> 
> A large percentage of guys on here seem to be totally content to keep on doing just what they're doing. And then some of them want to call it "art" or "craftsmanship". Personally, I find drywall-as-usual a mental flat-line. I NEED to make it interesting, and easier.


 I don't call it art,,, already stated that I think its mearly a skilled trade.

I find "drywall as usual" the thing that makes my living. And YES, I am content to keep on doing that very thing.

I do NOT take myself very seriously (heck no-one else does). Man, its just drywall!!!!!!

If it's flat and it looks good,,,, your done!!!!!

Trust me,,, you don't need a laser to get ya there!!:whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I don't call it art,,, already stated that I think its mearly a skilled trade.
> 
> I find "drywall as usual" the thing that makes my living. And YES, I am content to keep on doing that very thing.
> 
> I do NOT take myself very seriously (heck no-one else does). Man, its just drywall!!!!!!
> 
> If it's flat and it looks good,,,, your done!!!!!
> 
> Trust me,,, you don't need a laser to get ya there!!:whistling2:


I don't have a problem with folks who want to practice "drywall as usual", it's just not for me. 

I don't even have a problem with guys who want to tell me what I'm doing is wrong, or overkill...but I do disagree.

I DO take my work seriously, but that's my twisted personality.

I wasn't trying to convince every drywaller inside the internets that they should always be using a line laser either. Just that it was handy, and helpful, and saved time.

And maybe, I'm being misunderstood too. I could give a sh!t if my sheets are actually level, but a _frame of reference _in a lot of cases saves a lot of time.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

SlimPickins said:


> I don't have a problem with folks who want to practice "drywall as usual", it's just not for me.
> 
> I don't even have a problem with guys who want to tell me what I'm doing is wrong, or overkill...but I do disagree.
> 
> I DO take my work seriously, but that's my twisted personality.
> 
> I wasn't trying to convince every drywaller inside the internets that they should always be using a line laser either. Just that it was handy, and helpful, and saved time.
> 
> And maybe, I'm being misunderstood too. I could give a sh!t if my sheets are actually level, but a _frame of reference _in a lot of cases saves a lot of time.


 As they say on the other side of the tracks down here,,,,

Its all good brother!!!!!


----------



## moore

SlimPickins said:


> I don't have a problem with folks who want to practice "drywall as usual", it's just not for me.
> 
> I don't even have a problem with guys who want to tell me what I'm doing is wrong, or overkill...but I do disagree.
> 
> I DO take my work seriously, but that's my twisted personality.
> 
> I wasn't trying to convince every drywaller inside the internets that they should always be using a line laser either. Just that it was handy, and helpful, and saved time.
> 
> And maybe, I'm being misunderstood too. I could give a sh!t if my sheets are actually level, but a _frame of reference _in a lot of cases saves a lot of time.


That home your working on this week slim...go back to it 2 years from now and look at your work.. It will look like ****! And the h/o will blame you for it ... Your not being misunderstood..the art of wood framing is what's being misunderstood here.so all the laser level fancy **** will get you no where . speaking from 25 years experience,, when you beat the system ..let me know!!


----------



## moore

moore said:


> That home your working on this week slim...go back to it 2 years from now and look at your work.. It will look like ****! And the h/o will blame you for it ... Your not being misunderstood..the art of wood framing is what's being misunderstood here.so all the laser level fancy **** will get you no where . speaking from 25 years experience,, when you beat the system ..let me know!!


not being mean ...just truthful !


----------



## Cratter

First time I heard anyone mention hanging the walls first...creating tighter angles? Defies all logic!!


----------



## Mudshark

Cratter said:


> First time I heard anyone mention hanging the walls first...creating tighter angles? Defies all logic!!


Unless you were going to steel frame the ceilings afterwards ! But yes the lids should always be first. Always thought the walls butting up to the lids offer more strength.


----------



## VANMAN

moore said:


> That home your working on this week slim...go back to it 2 years from now and look at your work.. It will look like ****! And the h/o will blame you for it ... Your not being misunderstood..the art of wood framing is what's being misunderstood here.so all the laser level fancy **** will get you no where . speaking from 25 years experience,, when you beat the system ..let me know!!


 Well lads i was at a party last week in a house i taped about 4/5 years ago and they had a leak in a bay window so the inside board had been ripped out! And here is me lookin at it and i see a bit of good old mesh tape lookin back at me I think i must of meshed this house but if i did there is not a crack in the whole house and still lookin good! Not a joint 2 b seen(unless u smoke)Sorry about the mesh thing but i can say my work looks good after 4/5 years not 2:thumbsup:


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> That home your working on this week slim...go back to it 2 years from now and look at your work.. It will look like ****! And the h/o will blame you for it ... Your not being misunderstood..the art of wood framing is what's being misunderstood here.so all the laser level fancy **** will get you no where . speaking from 25 years experience,, when you beat the system ..let me know!!


So apparently YES, I am being misunderstood. You say "laser level fancy ****", as if the level is giving me some kind of pseudo-superior finished product. What the level served to do was snap lines on both sides of the stairwell instantly so I could pull all my numbers more quickly. I have a piece of strap steel, use the screw gun to tack it at approximate height, put the PLS180 on the magnetic bracket, adjust line to crow's foot, done. The added bonus is that every piece after that first tricky one goes up like gravy cakes. It's not about being fancy, or clever, or super-duper awesome.....it's about saving time and effort. It's not as if I went out and bought a line laser so my sheets would be level......sheesh.

Oh, and I have to opportunity to go back to my jobs all the time (commercial businesses and homes of friends) and my work looks fine.


----------



## SlimPickins

Cratter said:


> First time I heard anyone mention hanging the walls first...creating tighter angles? Defies all logic!!


In a stairwell, which is easier to get perfect? Angles or the square cuts?




Mudshark said:


> Unless you were going to steel frame the ceilings afterwards ! But yes the lids should always be first. Always thought the walls butting up to the lids offer more strength.


In 95% of cases I agree with you, but for a 40" wide piece of 5/8 that has 50% more screws I'm not worried too much about strength. The friction fit alone gives it acceptable holding power.


----------



## Final touch drywall

moore said:


> That home your working on this week slim...go back to it 2 years from now and look at your work.. It will look like ****! And the h/o will blame you for it ... Your not being misunderstood..the art of wood framing is what's being misunderstood here.so all the laser level fancy **** will get you no where . speaking from 25 years experience,, when you beat the system ..let me know!!



Crap moore,you must work behind some of the worst framers known to man kind. I am always going into homes we have done 2,3 4,& even 5yrs later to finish off space above garage's,& basements.Maybe a few screw pops here & there,but damn you make it sound like you go through nite mares.
Did you ever wake up in the middle of the nite having a nite mare because a board fell from a ceiling that you took all the screws outta.Maybe you should not take out all the screws & leave them in to hold some of the structure together.
We glue & screw everything around here,& the screws stay in.& the house looks the way I left it many yrs later.


----------



## moore

moore said:


> That home your working on this week slim...go back to it 2 years from now and look at your work.. It will look like ****! And the h/o will blame you for it ... Your not being misunderstood..the art of wood framing is what's being misunderstood here.so all the laser level fancy **** will get you no where . speaking from 25 years experience,, when you beat the system ..let me know!!


OK...I should not have said that. The winter homes that have no heat are the ones that go to sh$t later on. I can't complain about the framers here Ftd they do what they can with the lumber there given . They tell me 1/3 of the studs they receive belong in the burn pile. The larger high end homes are a different story all the bad studs are thrown in a pile then sent back to the supply,, And guess where they end up,,,,at the cracker box.. The framers dry the homes in as fast as they can so to keep the home from getting rained or snow on ,,but the trusses were laying directly on the ground not covered while the basement walls are being poured ..Not all..but some of my g/cs are brief case contractors ..They have the capital ,,but don't have clue!! When things go wrong,and they want to start pointing fingers [it's not there fault..see.] I have my own brief case..It's full of literature on lumber shrinkage ..individual little books that I hand them and say read this over..I'm trying to teach these guys something .some listen,,and really care for my point of veiw and they see that I also care about the home there building,.. while others throw the literature I hand them out the window of there 2012 hd silverado. 

I do not pull the field screws out of my ceilings FTD. [don't have the balls] ,,but I know d/cs that do. 

I was working on home In a subdivision not long ago July I think ..The painters that go behind me often were next door on a home I didn't do[price to high] They asked me to walk over and tell them what was going on with the screw heads . 4 field screws every stud ..they were all popped ceilings and walls ,, I told them It's a common problem with all d/c,,they said we don't have this problem with your houses........


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> OK...I should not have said that. The winter homes that have no heat are the ones that go to sh$t later on. I can't complain about the framers here Ftd they do what they can with the lumber there given . They tell me 1/3 of the studs they receive belong in the burn pile. The larger high end homes are a different story all the bad studs are thrown in a pile then sent back to the supply,, And guess where they end up,,,,at the cracker box.. The framers dry the homes in as fast as they can so to keep the home from getting rained or snow on ,,but the trusses were laying directly on the ground not covered while the basement walls are being poured ..Not all..but some of my g/cs are brief case contractors ..They have the capital ,,but don't have clue!! When things go wrong,and they want to start pointing fingers [it's not there fault..see.] I have my own brief case..It's full of literature on lumber shrinkage ..individual little books that I hand them and say read this over..I'm trying to teach these guys something .some listen,,and really care for my point of veiw and they see that I also care about the home there building,.. while others throw the literature I hand them out the window of there 2012 hd silverado.
> 
> I do not pull the field screws out of my ceilings FTD. [don't have the balls] ,,but I know d/cs that do.
> 
> I was working on home In a subdivision not long ago July I think ..The painters that go behind me often were next door on a home I didn't do[price to high] They asked me to walk over and tell them what was going on with the screw heads . 4 field screws every stud ..they were all popped ceilings and walls ,, I told them It's a common problem with all d/c,,they said we don't have this problem with your houses........


Stick to your guns, you were right in your 1st post, some talk on here like it's their tape job that holds the house together.............. nuts:yes:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

moore said:


> OK...I should not have said that. The winter homes that have no heat are the ones that go to sh$t later on. I can't complain about the framers here Ftd they do what they can with the lumber there given . They tell me 1/3 of the studs they receive belong in the burn pile. The larger high end homes are a different story all the bad studs are thrown in a pile then sent back to the supply,, And guess where they end up,,,,at the cracker box.. The framers dry the homes in as fast as they can so to keep the home from getting rained or snow on ,,but the trusses were laying directly on the ground not covered while the basement walls are being poured ..Not all..but some of my g/cs are brief case contractors ..They have the capital ,,but don't have clue!! When things go wrong,and they want to start pointing fingers [it's not there fault..see.] I have my own brief case..It's full of literature on lumber shrinkage ..individual little books that I hand them and say read this over..I'm trying to teach these guys something .some listen,,and really care for my point of veiw and they see that I also care about the home there building,.. while others throw the literature I hand them out the window of there 2012 hd silverado.
> 
> I do not pull the field screws out of my ceilings FTD. [don't have the balls] ,,but I know d/cs that do.
> 
> I was working on home In a subdivision not long ago July I think ..The painters that go behind me often were next door on a home I didn't do[price to high] They asked me to walk over and tell them what was going on with the screw heads . 4 field screws every stud ..they were all popped ceilings and walls ,, I told them It's a common problem with all d/c,,they said we don't have this problem with your houses........


I could say that if you didn't GLUE the rock to the studs,,, you wouldn't have as much problem with it,,,LOL,,,,,

But you wouldn't believe me!!!!:whistling2:


----------



## Mudshark

*Cleaning Bazooka tube*

I am a home winemaker and been doing it for years. One of the brushes to scrub my carboys (large glass containers) does double duty for cleaning the inside of the bazooka. It is a bit short but I attach a string and push it all the way down with a broom handle or whatever. The brush is available at hardware stores and pharmacies that sell wine making supplies. The stiff bristles are just right size for the bazooka.:rockon:


----------



## robert seke

tricounty dwall said:


> saul what i usually do us cut a x in the center of the disc. if u dont it sucks to the rocks.


Guys remember that punching holes in standard abrasives only helps a bit. The reason Joest works so well is the thick fibrous material on the backside that acts as a storage chamber for the dust. Remember, you can have all the holes you want on the surface, but if the dust :thumbsup:has no place to go, your not getting anywhere...


----------



## Cratter

Hangers carrying lipstick? 

Here's one of the best tricks I learned!


----------



## moore

Please don't do that..


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> Please don't do that..


No sh!t. Spend the $69 dollars on a router ferchrissake.


----------



## Mudshark

Well these guys were no pros thats for sure. Did not raise the board from the floor. Still the concept isnt that bad for small jobs.


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Here's one for machine tapers... Get an electrical fish tape and cut it down into box blades. Block coat, Not skimming. Blades usually run $2-3. You can get 100' fish tape for $20 and get 120 10" blades out of it for .17cents a piece.


----------



## super rocker

Cratter said:


> Hangers carrying lipstick?
> 
> Here's one of the best tricks I learned!
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBNiuyf2OyQ


 
Better than hangers wearing lipstick.


----------



## gazman

Gday PA.
I get what you mean but have never heard of fish tape. What is it?


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> Gday PA.
> I get what you mean but have never heard of fish tape. What is it?


http://www.kleintools.com/content/fishtapes


----------



## gazman

Thanks Moore.
Never seen that before.:thumbsup:


----------



## Mudstar

Cratter said:


> Hangers carrying lipstick?
> 
> Here's one of the best tricks I learned!
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBNiuyf2OyQ


We all know why you really carry lipstick .............................


----------



## Cratter

Mudstar said:


> We all know why you really carry lipstick .............................


Yeah got me!

It never fails that one girl will forget her lipstick for all the RAINBOW PARTIES I attend!! arty::laughing:


----------



## Cratter

Mudshark said:


> Well these guys were no pros thats for sure. Did not raise the board from the floor. Still the concept isnt that bad for small jobs.


No matter how "small" the job is bring the rotozip.

I always bring the screw gun no matter how small the job is. :whistling2:


----------



## SlimPickins

Cratter said:


> No matter how "small" the job is bring the rotozip.
> 
> I always bring the screw gun no matter how small the job is. :whistling2:


Depending on the size of the job, and what's involved, I might pack my rattle gun (impact driver) instead. At least until I get some cordless drywall thinger-ma-bob-zee-whatsits.


----------



## Cratter

SlimPickins said:


> Depending on the size of the job, and what's involved, I might pack my rattle gun (impact driver) instead. At least until I get some cordless drywall thinger-ma-bob-zee-whatsits.


Been known to do the same. Ya know one guy screws one guy cuts. small pieces/closests etc the cutter will use the impact to tack em up quick.

Only bad part is you gotta watch sinking em too deep...pop screws!


----------



## cdwoodcox

Cratter said:


> Been known to do the same. Ya know one guy screws one guy cuts. small pieces/closests etc the cutter will use the impact to tack em up quick.
> 
> Only bad part is you gotta watch sinking em too deep...pop screws!


 I don't allow hanging with anything but my drywall guns for that purpose. If you have 100 employees 1 might stop and fix a screw they blow through the board. 

The cut guy should be cutting, gluing, and if he gets ahead enough he should be able to take initiative and measure something else and cut it. If he gets too far ahead you better get a new guy screwing pieces


----------



## SlimPickins

Cratter said:


> Been known to do the same. Ya know one guy screws one guy cuts. small pieces/closests etc the cutter will use the impact to tack em up quick.
> 
> Only bad part is you gotta watch sinking em too deep...pop screws!


I really only use the rattle gun when it's too much of a hassle to plug in my gun (which has a 50' cord) and drag it all over the place. Mostly patches, etc. I like the rattle gun because when you start getting deep you can ease up on the trigger and will click-clack right into place. My impact has higher torque and lower rpms, so it works really well for drywall screws (and 6" washer heads :laughing


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

taper71 said:


> Leave the door jambs cut at 4 " so the finisher can flush the corners without having to change tools.


:thumbsup:


----------



## getplastered

Not sure if it's in the last twelve pages...only got through the first three...

"Hire a professional".


----------



## ManleyConSer

*hahaha*



nickcruz said:


> :thumbsup:
> sound like you a srew gun man I hire rookies for that job IM too busy to hold a srewgun I cut measure and hang only.learn how to teach kids to do the easy jobs you will make more money.then repost lol rookie.


 
I just read this after about two years! All I have to say is wow. My company made well over a million last year doing nothing but hanging and finishing. Guess what I did while you were out there cutting, measuring and hanging. I sat in my office took phone calls and checked on my two crews three crews at the job. Oh yeah and spent the rest of my time at my beachhouse in Florida. Just cause I can still hang with the best of them doesnt mean i need to. Go blow your wind somewere else.


----------



## ManleyConSer

And by the way not bashing anybody else, I was able to retire from my business, I know there are many great drywall companies still out there and I hope you all the best. Just can't stand cocky noitalls like the above.

Keep hangin brothers!


----------



## silverstilts

ManleyConSer said:


> I just read this after about two years! All I have to say is wow. My company made well over a million last year doing nothing but hanging and finishing. Guess what I did while you were out there cutting, measuring and hanging. I sat in my office took phone calls and checked on my two crews three crews at the job. Oh yeah and spent the rest of my time at my beachhouse in Florida. Just cause I can still hang with the best of them doesnt mean i need to. Go blow your wind somewere else.


 Really now no big deal , sounds like some one else needs to go and let the air out of his own sail. Run your company however you want and let others decide what is in their best interests. Chill out.


----------



## SlimPickins

silverstilts said:


> Really now no big deal , sounds like some one else needs to go and let the air out of his own sail. Run your company however you want and let others decide what is in their best interests. Chill out.


I can't stand know-it-alls, so I'm going to act remarkably like one to get my point across? (not directed at you Stilts)


----------



## eastex1963

What he said ^^^^^:thumbup:


----------



## nickcruz

*sold my company*



ManleyConSer said:


> I just read this after about two years! All I have to say is wow. My company made well over a million last year doing nothing but hanging and finishing. Guess what I did while you were out there cutting, measuring and hanging. I sat in my office took phone calls and checked on my two crews three crews at the job. Oh yeah and spent the rest of my time at my beachhouse in Florida. Just cause I can still hang with the best of them doesnt mean i need to. Go blow your wind somewere else.


 I sold my company for more then you made while you sat and I hung drywall every day and still do.You lifestyle is whitecoller mine is bluecoller.I hire a help to do office work because I need to be working hard everyday
to keep in tune with the guys.I now opening a tile company because I can.If I make a million I will shut down and retire on account of poor sales.


----------



## nickcruz

*Sold my company*



ManleyConSer said:


> I just read this after about two years! All I have to say is wow. My company made well over a million last year doing nothing but hanging and finishing. Guess what I did while you were out there cutting, measuring and hanging. I sat in my office took phone calls and checked on my two crews three crews at the job. Oh yeah and spent the rest of my time at my beachhouse in Florida. Just cause I can still hang with the best of them doesnt mean i need to. Go blow your wind somewere else. Two crews would not make a million windy.I know because I had 15 to 20 before I sold the company for way more then you made and I work hard everyday to show the boys how its done. No beachhouse here, I am more alive in a lean-too in the frozen tundra hunting for my own living for myself.


----------



## nickcruz

ManleyConSer said:


> And by the way not bashing anybody else, I was able to retire from my business, I know there are many great drywall companies still out there and I hope you all the best. Just can't stand cocky noitalls like the above.
> 
> Keep hangin brothers!


 chew it fat boy.


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

I know earnings are relative to location. So you guys are saying you netted 1 million + running 8-10 men? Or did you do 1 million+ in business? I'm no newbie, I've seen many companies rise and fall over the years. And in the Northeast you can't "profit" those numbers without much more manpower.


----------



## super rocker

These millionaires bragging here truly are tricks of the trade.:whistling2:


----------



## ManleyConSer

Doing only sheetrock you couldn't make big bucks no way, Im a general contractor that started out doing all sheetrock and still do a good bit but mostly subdivision projects in Savannah, Statesboro and Jacksonville. So I will Def agree with the previous comments.


----------



## igorson

ManleyConSer said:


> I just read this after about two years! All I have to say is wow. My company made well over a million last year doing nothing but hanging and finishing. Guess what I did while you were out there cutting, measuring and hanging. I sat in my office took phone calls and checked on my two crews three crews at the job. Oh yeah and spent the rest of my time at my beachhouse in Florida. Just cause I can still hang with the best of them doesnt mean i need to. Go blow your wind somewere else.


You should be thankful to those who "while you were out there cutting, measuring and hanging" they let you "sat in my office took phone calls and checked on my two crews three crews at the job" And do not forget things in your life can change very quickly


----------



## igorson

Keep it up! :thumbsup:


----------



## Rockerchris

Lots of good stuff here, some of them great, a couple I thought that only I did lol. One that I can think of off the top of my head is when you cut a rip off of a sheet; score it, fold it, then rasp both ends together before breaking it off. When you come back to that sheet or the rip you have a clean edge to rip from without having to rasp it twice. And speaking of rasps, am I the only guy who flips the blade around when I buy a new rasp? It feels like it just makes more sense when the blade is in "backwards".


----------



## Rockerchris

I just thought of another. When topping out, don't use two guys. Two one man crews will hang more then one two man crew. Unless of course you're topping out some crazy stuff with a hundred penatrations and you have to wedge yourself into a spot where you can barely move.


----------



## sandshots

SlimPickins said:


> So apparently YES, I am being misunderstood. You say "laser level fancy ****", as if the level is giving me some kind of pseudo-superior finished product. What the level served to do was snap lines on both sides of the stairwell instantly so I could pull all my numbers more quickly. I have a piece of strap steel, use the screw gun to tack it at approximate height, put the PLS180 on the magnetic bracket, adjust line to crow's foot, done. The added bonus is that every piece after that first tricky one goes up like gravy cakes. It's not about being fancy, or clever, or super-duper awesome.....it's about saving time and effort. It's not as if I went out and bought a line laser so my sheets would be level......sheesh.
> 
> Oh, and I have to opportunity to go back to my jobs all the time (commercial businesses and homes of friends) and my work looks fine.


I use my 180 for this as well. And many other uses.


----------



## Rockerchris

I've used my rotary laser on more than one occasion for this. Works great to find the high point on real long runs when the concrete is less than perfect. :thumbup:


----------



## sandshots

Rockerchris said:


> I've used my rotary laser on more than one occasion for this. Works great to find the high point on real long runs when the concrete is less than perfect. :thumbup:


Exactly. Same thing to find high and low spots on lids.


----------



## moore

Here you go ..Mr. Holt..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ-XqzlKj8o&feature=youtu.b


----------



## chris

With a 4 speed on the floor
Theyll be waitin at the door
You know that I aint chiitin
well be gettin lots of ti++in
Gareased Lightnin:thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

chris said:


> With a 4 speed on the floor
> Theyll be waitin at the door
> You know that I aint chiitin
> well be gettin lots of ti++in
> Gareased Lightnin:thumbsup:


Hahaha! :lol:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

I noticed someone had their flats coated out, before installing their angle tapes:yes:


----------



## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> I noticed someone had their flats coated out, before installing their angle tapes:yes:


I noticed that too. :yes:


----------



## moore

:whistling2:


2buckcanuck said:


> I noticed someone had their flats coated out, before installing their angle tapes:yes:


:whistling2::whistling2:


----------



## gazman

Thanks Mr Moore. I see what you meant about not bedding the tape in with the roller.:yes:


----------



## Drywall_King

If you can help it never step on the white side of the sheet, makes a dirty job,


----------



## Drywall_King

moore said:


> Here you go ..Mr. Holt..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ-XqzlKj8o&feature=youtu.b


sorry mate didnt like it, could have rolled and flushed and had both sides done, also your taping over a internal up and down angle thats not screwed..


----------



## Drywall_King

Drywall_King said:


> sorry mate didnt like it, could have rolled and flushed and had both sides done, also your taping over a internal up and down angle thats not screwed..


i take that back after looking at it again, the other half inch of board is covering the screws.. lol


----------



## sdrdrywall

moore said:


> Here you go ..Mr. Holt..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQ-XqzlKj8o&feature=youtu.b


Damb Moore your sportin some guns


----------



## Drywalogist

Don't overload your coating unless you like building really wide and sanding it out.


----------



## harvv

Hey guys first post here. Just wanted to say have been visiting the forums here and ive found it to be damn awesome so far. Have been hanging for several years and have been lucky enough to be pretty much going at it full days with little downtime and i have really been enjoying it a lot. I am now being trained a bit on finishing(all by hand, no boxes or taping tools atm) I have always had a partner when hanging, but now im just starting to hang a bit by myself and have been picking up quite a few tricks from these forums that have helped a TON....especially on the ceilings haha. So i have a few questions. Some are to do with working alone, some not. 

Pulling measurements by yourself...seems like a dumb question for me to ask but im going to anways(i might be having trouble because my tape has a slight twist in the end so when i get it out to around 12' it starts to curl away from the wall) Just wondering if there are any tricks you guys use for pulling measurements by yourself, especially wondering how you do it alone on ceilings.

I see a lot of people talking about rock splicers and butt boards here and i have worked in several parts of the state/country and never even heard of these. Looked into it a bit and they look like a great idea to me. Seems like theyd make everyones job significantly quicker and easier. Was just curious about how common these are where everyone else is? And does anyone make them themselves?...would be hard for me to justify spending the money on buying a ton of those. 

Another question i had was about glue. Ive looked through a few pictures of jobs people have posted here and ive noticed most of them are done with glue with the 2 screws in center 2" apart or w/e. Are all the hangers on this site *always* using glue? None of the guys ive worked for/with have really used glue all that much so i was curious about that. Like when and where the preferred uses of it are.

Also, just watched that vid of moores above where he uses the roller to tape the angles. Thats looks awesomely fast. As i said before ive been just now starting to learn the finishing aspect of the job, and taping the angles is the main thing giving me a bit of trouble and irritation. I think im putting a bit too much mud under the tape which is giving me a few problems when i wipe it flat(tape wrinkling easier as i wipe it/having to wipe it too many times to get the mud out from behind it because i assume i put too much). Just a matter of practicing. But yeah i was looking at that roller vid of moores and it looks awesome. We use the pre mixed and i was wondering if you(moore) have to water down your mud a bit to get it to go in the corners so nice with that roller? 

Had a few more questions that have slipped my mind atm...but any responses would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to better myself at the trade. Oh and sorry if it was a bit long >.>


----------



## SlimPickins

harvv said:


> Hey guys first post here. Just wanted to say have been visiting the forums here and ive found it to be damn awesome so far. Have been hanging for several years and have been lucky enough to be pretty much going at it full days with little downtime and i have really been enjoying it a lot. I am now being trained a bit on finishing(all by hand, no boxes or taping tools atm) I have always had a partner when hanging, but now im just starting to hang a bit by myself and have been picking up quite a few tricks from these forums that have helped a TON....especially on the ceilings haha. So i have a few questions. Some are to do with working alone, some not.
> 
> Pulling measurements by yourself...seems like a dumb question for me to ask but im going to anways(i might be having trouble because my tape has a slight twist in the end so when i get it out to around 12' it starts to curl away from the wall) Just wondering if there are any tricks you guys use for pulling measurements by yourself, especially wondering how you do it alone on ceilings.
> 
> I see a lot of people talking about rock splicers and butt boards here and i have worked in several parts of the state/country and never even heard of these. Looked into it a bit and they look like a great idea to me. Seems like theyd make everyones job significantly quicker and easier. Was just curious about how common these are where everyone else is? And does anyone make them themselves?...would be hard for me to justify spending the money on buying a ton of those.
> 
> Another question i had was about glue. Ive looked through a few pictures of jobs people have posted here and ive noticed most of them are done with glue with the 2 screws in center 2" apart or w/e. Are all the hangers on this site *always* using glue? None of the guys ive worked for/with have really used glue all that much so i was curious about that. Like when and where the preferred uses of it are.
> 
> Also, just watched that vid of moores above where he uses the roller to tape the angles. Thats looks awesomely fast. As i said before ive been just now starting to learn the finishing aspect of the job, and taping the angles is the main thing giving me a bit of trouble and irritation. I think im putting a bit too much mud under the tape which is giving me a few problems when i wipe it flat(tape wrinkling easier as i wipe it/having to wipe it too many times to get the mud out from behind it because i assume i put too much). Just a matter of practicing. But yeah i was looking at that roller vid of moores and it looks awesome. We use the pre mixed and i was wondering if you(moore) have to water down your mud a bit to get it to go in the corners so nice with that roller?
> 
> Had a few more questions that have slipped my mind atm...but any responses would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to better myself at the trade. Oh and sorry if it was a bit long >.>


I can answer a couple of those questions, but not all...

When pulling numbers by yourself, invest in a Stanley Fat Max (I like the 25 ft. version). I take a pair of snips to the nubs that stick out on the numbered side (I'm never using the tape that way so it doesn't matter) and file them so they're not so sharp.

Also, I put my bench about 8 ft. from the wall, shoot the tape and pinch it to the truss overhead, then pull out the remaining length and read the number. It takes a little bit of practice, but you'll get it. As the tape becomes worn, you'll need to buy a new one...it won't stand out as far.

I don't use glue to hang rock. Out here, no one does.

I don't have a lot of opportunity to use the butt-boards with the small remodel jobs that I do so much of, but I'm looking forward to giving them a shot.

Hope this was helpful.


----------



## moore

harvv said:


> Hey guys first post here. Just wanted to say have been visiting the forums here and ive found it to be damn awesome so far. Have been hanging for several years and have been lucky enough to be pretty much going at it full days with little downtime and i have really been enjoying it a lot. I am now being trained a bit on finishing(all by hand, no boxes or taping tools atm) I have always had a partner when hanging, but now im just starting to hang a bit by myself and have been picking up quite a few tricks from these forums that have helped a TON....especially on the ceilings haha. So i have a few questions. Some are to do with working alone, some not.
> 
> Pulling measurements by yourself...seems like a dumb question for me to ask but im going to anways(i might be having trouble because my tape has a slight twist in the end so when i get it out to around 12' it starts to curl away from the wall) Just wondering if there are any tricks you guys use for pulling measurements by yourself, especially wondering how you do it alone on ceilings.
> 
> I see a lot of people talking about rock splicers and butt boards here and i have worked in several parts of the state/country and never even heard of these. Looked into it a bit and they look like a great idea to me. Seems like theyd make everyones job significantly quicker and easier. Was just curious about how common these are where everyone else is? And does anyone make them themselves?...would be hard for me to justify spending the money on buying a ton of those.
> 
> Another question i had was about glue. Ive looked through a few pictures of jobs people have posted here and ive noticed most of them are done with glue with the 2 screws in center 2" apart or w/e. Are all the hangers on this site *always* using glue? None of the guys ive worked for/with have really used glue all that much so i was curious about that. Like when and where the preferred uses of it are.
> 
> Also, just watched that vid of moores above where he uses the roller to tape the angles. Thats looks awesomely fast. As i said before ive been just now starting to learn the finishing aspect of the job, and taping the angles is the main thing giving me a bit of trouble and irritation. I think im putting a bit too much mud under the tape which is giving me a few problems when i wipe it flat(tape wrinkling easier as i wipe it/having to wipe it too many times to get the mud out from behind it because i assume i put too much). Just a matter of practicing. But yeah i was looking at that roller vid of moores and it looks awesome. We use the pre mixed and i was wondering if you(moore) have to water down your mud a bit to get it to go in the corners so nice with that roller?
> 
> Had a few more questions that have slipped my mind atm...but any responses would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to better myself at the trade. Oh and sorry if it was a bit long >.>[/quotehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PABYoG2VVGE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYbBrP7bEIk


----------



## moore




----------



## harvv

Thanks guys...appreciate it.


----------



## moore

Just like Slim said Harv..:yes:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vMqxjVh1Y0&feature=youtu.be


----------



## harvv

moore said:


> Just like Slim said Harv..:yes:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vMqxjVh1Y0&feature=youtu.be


Thanks for the vid man! And thanks slim for the info, it all helped. Had always had a partner every since i started so i guess i just never thought about doin the little things like that solo. I do always use the fat max 25', the one im using now though i think it got slightly twisted about 6 inches from the end of the tape when it was rolling back up at some crazy angle...makes it a little difficult to just hold it out straight on walls cause its always wantin to twist the one direction... :cursing:

Oh and starting a basement this week that has like 6 gajillion interior angles so i think i will be grabbing one of those rollers tomorrow to give it a go.


----------



## thefinisher

Moore I used to used the same type of roller for running my angles. I had a broom stick handle screwed in though. Gives you better leverage and you don't have to bend down so much. Also I notice you don't use at least a tape roller?? Would make it a bit faster for you . :thumbsup:


----------



## Arey85




----------



## moore

Look Silver!!!! Dip-n-roll...... Theres still a few of us left around..:lol::lol::lol::laughing:


----------



## PaRiggins

*Mr Moore*

Mr Moore - I've tried your technique of rolling mud in the corners and I love it. I second coated every corner in our habitat house in 4 hours (with help from BTE flusher). I'm not a professional so it saved me tons of time. My question is this. What kind of roller do you buy? My roller seemed to scrape the mud off one side and plop it on the floor. Seems I saw one of your videos where you recommended a roller but I can't find it again.

Thanks again.

Marv


----------



## moore

PaRiggins said:


> Mr Moore - I've tried your technique of rolling mud in the corners and I love it. I second coated every corner in our habitat house in 4 hours (with help from BTE flusher). I'm not a professional so it saved me tons of time. My question is this. What kind of roller do you buy? My roller seemed to scrape the mud off one side and plop it on the floor. Seems I saw one of your videos where you recommended a roller but I can't find it again.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Marv


 http://www.georgeadavistools.com/drywalltools/cornerrollers.html

Marshall town rollers / the bend is to close to the spool .
bon tool rollers / don't waste your money..
I have never used a diamond wall roller ,,but FTD says there the same as Marshall town .
Davis rollers are the best IMO.. 

Try shorning the handle side of the spool with scissors ..be careful not to cut the string .


----------



## moore

What brand do you use Arey 85?


----------



## Arey85

I'm not sure of the name but I know it starts with a D. It's not diamond wall, I used a diamond wall once on a job far from my office. I forgot mine so I went out and bought one. I rolled 3 corners and the metal broke off from the handle. The one I use has black lettering but can't recall the brand. And the handle is caked with mud so I'm not going to bother finding out.  I use it in garages too. My corners stay just taped until 3rd coat and I roll them at the end. Keeping the wall side thick. ( they only paint the ceilings around here mostly)


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## harvv

moore said:


> 101_0202.AVI - YouTube


Mooreee man after seein your vid i went out and grabbed a roller a while back and have been loving it compared to the way i was taught/have been doing things(coating both sides with my 5 when taping the angles) I was curious if you ever have problems with blisters using the roller. Not that i have had any, was just wondering.

Also...man...worked with a dif crew for a bit the last week and they all had all the auto taping tools and boxes and everything. Have to say it all looked pretty damn awesome. Made me wish i had more money to get all that stuff.


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## Toolnut

Hi everyone new to site so be gentle. I just wanted to say Hyde now makes a roller for drywall mud it's like $30 bucks and you can get it or order it from Sherwin Williams.


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## Toolnut

Hey i just looked it up on Wall Tools.com they have it for $19 bucks (figures)


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## gordie

*123*



Wallers said:


> A couple more points about glue... We don't put ANY screws in the field if the rock is glued. The glue will "forgive" twisted or warped studs, and set up even if it stretches 1/4", thus eliminating the wavy wall, or popped screws that can result from the "quality" lumber that gc's leave us to work with. Also, start your glue globbing 6 to 8 inches down from the top plate (apply it to the studs) because when you go to slam it up, you are less likely to roll glue down the face of the board by sliding the rock through it. you only need 25- 30" of glue per sheet because you are screwing off the perimeter, and then you also dont leave glue running out of your joints for the finisher to scrape off and cuss at. And for the same reasons never glue up your "breaking stud" where the butt joint will be.
> 
> Thank you very much,
> 
> A happy finisher. (as long as the bead is straight!)


we put one screw in every 4' or so so the glue grabs tapers would rather none but you should put one here and there the perimiter is not enough on 12 and 14's


----------



## gordie

nickcruz said:


> Don't use drywall nails if you can't install them right .I use them on the outsides of sheets only because im twice as fast as any screw gun for cheeper. one box of screws for fiffty bucks will last 25 thousand feet and the nails about the same total 100 bucks all screws for the same footage 4.5 buckets of screws total 225.no brainer unless your a rookie who never could put a nail if they tried.stick with the screws if you want ?


i cant agee more nails are great for the guy that are good with them put a couple in the top put up your sheet hit the nails sheets up grab gun screw her off. but i suck with nails so it dont work for me haha and tapers hate bad nails i learned with a screw gun and so does every one now and you cant use nails on steal but the old timers make it look good though.


----------



## Zendik

Best trick ever.....










Get out of the trade!


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## moore

Zendik said:


> Best trick ever.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Get out of the trade!


Hows the spine doing Zendik??


----------



## Zendik

moore said:


> Hows the spine doing Zendik??


It hurts, of course but I've been out of the trade for 6-7 months. Got a job with a commercial cabinet maker around the corner from my place. Great crew too...

5 more classes and I'm done with my degree though!
:thumbup:


----------



## boco

I try and keep the sheet rockers and painters happy. The rockers get Little ceasars pizza and wings just before they start a big cut up house. For the painter I get him a bacon egg and cheese from DDs. He then is happy to fix the dings, nicks, and caulk the trim tex at the very tops. i spend a little on food and coffee but it keeps everyone happy.


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## 2buckcanuck

boco said:


> I try and keep the sheet rockers and painters happy. The rockers get Little ceasars pizza and wings just before they start a big cut up house. For the painter I get him a bacon egg and cheese from DDs. He then is happy to fix the dings, nicks, and caulk the trim tex at the very tops. i spend a little on food and coffee but it keeps everyone happy.


Ill come work for you:thumbup:
Except Ill be expecting both meals:thumbup::whistling2:


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## RenoRob

2buckcanuck said:


> Ill come work for you:thumbup:
> Except Ill be expecting both meals:thumbup::whistling2:


and thats just breakfast


----------



## moore

boco said:


> I try and keep the sheet rockers and painters happy. The rockers get Little ceasars pizza and wings just before they start a big cut up house. For the painter I get him a bacon egg and cheese from DDs. He then is happy to fix the dings, nicks, and caulk the trim tex at the very tops. i spend a little on food and coffee but it keeps everyone happy.


 I throw my tips in on the check. Aint got time to run breakfast around...:whistling2:


----------



## gordie

rox smart said:


> ...this tip only pertains to hanging ceiling sheets manually. when i learned how to hang, i was told to always put my first screw in at the rolled edge that buts to the previously hung sheet, and then continue to put screws in the ends, about 4 usually, until the sheet or your end of the sheet is secure. so basically putting two screws in the rolled edge by previous sheet and two screws on the opposite side. over time i have come to find (though some people get a bit edgy when i do this) that when hanging 12' or 14' 5/8 or 1/2 on ceilings (using two people) i can simply put my first screw in about 16" from the rolled edge, after this first screw you can release some of the pressure you are using to hold the sheet. i then put my next screw 16" from the rolled edge on the next stud over though on the opposite end of the sheet. at this point i can let go and continue to screw away. this relies heavily on having faith that the guy on the other end of the sheet isn't flailing around and fumbling trying to hold his end up. this method has saved me so much stress on my body and increases the speed of the workflow. especially with the band of the sheets spinning screws out so often. as well, stay focused on your body mechanics. i see too many guys out their jacking their asses out like some playboy model in a photoshoot...tighten your core and keep your ass pulled towards your cock.


When i work with someone with lees experience hanging "a helper" ,i use the style i was taught with.

First i point to where the board is going and i get my helper to take the end that is going into" the last but joint or the corner" that the board has to go tight too. "so he essentially will lead".then when he climbs his ladder he is looking at where he has to go , keeping his end high. I steady and direct the board from behind and go low in the small rooms ,so he wont have to think just but that board into the corner he is looking at.

I find most new guys do a'lot of unnecessary struggling which can be quite funny like trying to lift the roof they push so hard .
I will let him do it for a day or two while they learn just how to do the lifts. Then ill tell them how hard it is to lift the board is how hard it is to hold it up don't kill your self pushing up the roof.
my old boss let me hold up a lid while he was talking to the d.c. then after a minute he laughed and told me there was enough screws to hold it , i learned how to put my screws on the next sheet lol.


----------



## boco

moore said:


> I throw my tips in on the check. Aint got time to run breakfast around...:whistling2:


 Moore you should try it. its not just the food. Well mostly but being able to sit down and have a coffee break and shoot the bull for 15 minutes. i try not to talk shop or how much i got F_cked on the last job. Mostly about hunting, fishing and ****. In the end everyones is happy and i find theres less oh the taper will fix it. I dont tip but I always hook these guys up with nice sidejobs. They let me do the bidding and they get all the cash.:thumbsup:


----------



## gordie

P.A. ROCKER said:


> For those not already using this method it goes like this....
> forget about measuring in fractions 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
> read these off your tape as 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
> a measurement like 28 1/2 becomes 28 -4
> When writing this down you put the line under the 4 so you know its a fraction. Its makes remembering groups of numbers alot easier. I usually can keep around 6 or 7 measurements in my head without writing on a piece of scrap to take to the stack.


 Thats wild mang i remember when i was just doing my first condos on our own. My brother and me work next to two old hands.They were fast and didn't wright nothing on there walls!!
Well they tried to explain that to me but i was just taking in to much at the time being new tks any way im gonna try that tomorrow i"ll do an update and say how it goes.


----------



## gordie

Field General said:


> All good advise ... be sure to push those electrical wires to the back of the box before reaming, routing, rotozipping.


use the but of your hammer "rubber side" to push the wires safe and you get good leverage.


----------



## gordie

SlimPickins said:


> Here's a trick I tried out today when hanging a lidded stairwell (by the way, I always hang walls first, then tight fit the lid....much better odds of having nice tight angles that way:thumbsup......
> 
> Line laser. I set it at 24" above landing height to span the rim joist, and hung the sheet in the middle of the stairwell first. Total set up time: 2 minutes. Take numbers: 2-3 minutes. All seams/butts tight as all get out with the bonus of hanging the toughest sheets first:thumbup: Then, with a little foresight all sheets were splits. 4 12's, 2 8's (to cover 16 feet of rise), and only 2 10" butts left over. The line laser was helpful in determining (quickly) the top and bottom 48 marks without snapping lines and praying for something resembling level. I think each of those starter sheets had 10 numbers. It's funny, once you start using that line laser you find a million other ways to use it to make your life easier.


true that


----------



## RenoRob

> It's funny, once you start using that line laser you find a million other ways to use it to make your life easier.


Ya, don't know how I got by without it before.


----------



## gordie

RenoRob said:


> Ya, don't know how I got by without it before.


 Just for [email protected] and giggles what kind of laser's you usin i got the P.L.S.
180.probably the best i.m.o.
we framed two 11 story steal builds, at the end the boss also the owner {two brothers that build there own building with there own bank roll no financing }, let me work off the price of it" half" what he paid. couldn"t live without it now .


----------



## gordie

harvv said:


> Hey guys first post here. Just wanted to say have been visiting the forums here and ive found it to be damn awesome so far. Have been hanging for several years and have been lucky enough to be pretty much going at it full days with little downtime and i have really been enjoying it a lot. I am now being trained a bit on finishing(all by hand, no boxes or taping tools atm) I have always had a partner when hanging, but now im just starting to hang a bit by myself and have been picking up quite a few tricks from these forums that have helped a TON....especially on the ceilings haha. So i have a few questions. Some are to do with working alone, some not.
> 
> Pulling measurements by yourself...seems like a dumb question for me to ask but im going to anways(i might be having trouble because my tape has a slight twist in the end so when i get it out to around 12' it starts to curl away from the wall) Just wondering if there are any tricks you guys use for pulling measurements by yourself, especially wondering how you do it alone on ceilings.
> 
> I see a lot of people talking about rock splicers and butt boards here and i have worked in several parts of the state/country and never even heard of these. Looked into it a bit and they look like a great idea to me. Seems like theyd make everyones job significantly quicker and easier. Was just curious about how common these are where everyone else is? And does anyone make them themselves?...would be hard for me to justify spending the money on buying a ton of those.
> 
> Another question i had was about glue. Ive looked through a few pictures of jobs people have posted here and ive noticed most of them are done with glue with the 2 screws in center 2" apart or w/e. Are all the hangers on this site *always* using glue? None of the guys ive worked for/with have really used glue all that much so i was curious about that. Like when and where the preferred uses of it are.
> 
> Also, just watched that vid of moores above where he uses the roller to tape the angles. Thats looks awesomely fast. As i said before ive been just now starting to learn the finishing aspect of the job, and taping the angles is the main thing giving me a bit of trouble and irritation. I think im putting a bit too much mud under the tape which is giving me a few problems when i wipe it flat(tape wrinkling easier as i wipe it/having to wipe it too many times to get the mud out from behind it because i assume i put too much). Just a matter of practicing. But yeah i was looking at that roller vid of moores and it looks awesome. We use the pre mixed and i was wondering if you(moore) have to water down your mud a bit to get it to go in the corners so nice with that roller?
> 
> Had a few more questions that have slipped my mind atm...but any responses would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to better myself at the trade. Oh and sorry if it was a bit long >.>



Ok harv i install alot of board on my own . I find splitting up i do one room my bro does the other can go quite good.Then we are still there to help each other when we need it but no one had to be the screw bitch keeps pride intact.
That being said i agree with slim fat max all the way but get the 16' and a 25' throw the 25 in your tool bucket only use it for measuring board counts there to big for boarding with the 16' is what you want to use no one goes back after trying one.
next try stabbing your saw into the spot your measuring from the corner or the butt you last installed". this gives you somthing strong to hook your tape on so you can pull it tight with your tape hand and push the floppy middle in with your other and your tape will not unhook on ya.
then when you have your measurment you can just pull your saw out much beter than using a screw that you might forget about or a helper "thats a waste of time"
hope that helps


----------



## RenoRob

gordie said:


> Just for [email protected] and giggles what kind of laser's you usin i got the P.L.S.
> 180.probably the best i.m.o.
> we framed two 11 story steal builds, at the end the boss also the owner {two brothers that build there own building with there own bank roll no financing }, let me work off the price of it" half" what he paid. couldn"t live without it now .


I have a PLS HVL100. It's awesome, does 360 horizontal and two verticals 90 degrees apart. Had it for a few years now, never a problem.

http://www.plslaser.com/line-lasers/pls-hvl100


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gordie said:


> Ok harv i install alot of board on my own . I find splitting up i do one room my bro does the other can go quite good.Then we are still there to help each other when we need it but no one had to be the screw bitch keeps pride intact.


Throw your silly pride out the window, and learn to make competition amongst your selves , makes for good money:yes:

Should always be a cutter and then a tacker, toss a coin if you must, or,,,, sometimes one guy has a better flow on the big and lids, well the other is better at the small (piece in), trade back and forth.

If doing a up stairs of a shack for example. Do ALL the lids, then the big, hit the small, then screw it off..... and get rid of your drywall lift if your acting as a crew, don't be a pussy. and lay your drywall piles on the floor, your a canuck, not a yankie :thumbsup:


----------



## DLSdrywall

2buckcanuck said:


> Throw your silly pride out the window, and learn to make competition amongst your selves , makes for good money:yes:
> 
> Should always be a cutter and then a tacker, toss a coin if you must, or,,,, sometimes one guy has a better flow on the big and lids, well the other is better at the small (piece in), trade back and forth.
> 
> If doing a up stairs of a shack for example. Do ALL the lids, then the big, hit the small, then screw it off..... and get rid of your drywall lift if your acting as a crew, don't be a pussy. and lay your drywall piles on the floor, your a canuck, not a yankie :thumbsup:


That's how my cousin and i board he cuts i install, big we install together, piece in i install, i say to myself i have to install the pieces before the next one is ready! i'm fast with a screw gun so it usually runs smoothly. When i was 18 i used to screw houses for 2 crews 100$ a house so you learn to get fast to make some money:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

gordie said:


> Just for [email protected] and giggles what kind of laser's you usin i got the P.L.S.
> 180.probably the best i.m.o.
> we framed two 11 story steal builds, at the end the boss also the owner {two brothers that build there own building with there own bank roll no financing }, let me work off the price of it" half" what he paid. couldn"t live without it now .


I have a PLS180 and a PLS3.

I have been looking at the HVL100 for a while, but no need to get one until the others sh!t the bed (PLS just replaced my PLS3 for free,, since it was out of whack by 5/16" in 7 ft.:blink:.........sad thing is, I think it was like that for quite a while , and would explain some perplexing out-of-plumb framing:whistling2


----------



## moore

Hillbilly cook stove..


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> Hillbilly cook stove..


You DO realize what that thing is spitting onto your food....right? Blech.


----------



## moore

SlimPickins said:


> You DO realize what that thing is spitting onto your food....right? Blech.


 Been doing this for years Slim. I'm still here..

Safer than a microwave IMO.. works great with can goods


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> You DO realize what that thing is spitting onto your food....right? Blech.


We use these:yes:

I have reheated many coffee's before, and you can warm up a lunch without fear of burning the house down:yes:


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> We use these:yes:
> 
> I have reheated many coffee's before, and you can warm up a lunch without fear of burning the house down:yes:


 Send me a link of that.....Electric right?


----------



## moore

SlimPickins said:


> You DO realize what that thing is spitting onto your food....right? Blech.


oh,,,,They dont start spitting till they run out of fuel....

You would LOVE working with me Slim!!!:yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Send me a link of that.....Electric right?


I actually remember a thread where we talked about them:thumbsup:

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f12/make-wish-request-basketball-court-2845/


----------



## harvey randall

moore said:


> Hillbilly cook stove..


 open fumes- keraoene i bet. christ getr A FING PROPANE CONVERTED HEATER And vent and blow- i have 3 ill ship to ya - run off prop. that inhell of hydrocarbon short out your nervous system


----------



## harvey randall

*harvv aint harvey*



gordie said:


> Ok harv i install alot of board on my own . I find splitting up i do one room my bro does the other can go quite good.Then we are still there to help each other when we need it but no one had to be the screw bitch keeps pride intact.
> That being said i agree with slim fat max all the way but get the 16' and a 25' throw the 25 in your tool bucket only use it for measuring board counts there to big for boarding with the 16' is what you want to use no one goes back after trying one.
> next try stabbing your saw into the spot your measuring from the corner or the butt you last installed". this gives you somthing strong to hook your tape on so you can pull it tight with your tape hand and push the floppy middle in with your other and your tape will not unhook on ya.
> then when you have your measurment you can just pull your saw out much beter than using a screw that you might forget about or a helper "thats a waste of time"
> hope that helps


harrvv aint harve randall mr. usg man inc in 1901 usg inc in 1901 and owns this web site- im inside out of my self self flaggelation and -every one knows who really owns it, not sweareing was the first CONTROL. cant cuse here, this is where kids are. bull ****----- this is where real men are. and we have to princy ass around- WE NEED ANOTHER SITE- THAT USG - HASENT TAKEN OVER. see ya yellahs its been fun and great. by the way- try punching your way through a piece of impregnated foam-**** usg your days are over. i told you twenty yeaRS AGO. **** YOU.


----------



## harvey randall

gordie said:


> Ok harv i install alot of board on my own . I find splitting up i do one room my bro does the other can go quite good.Then we are still there to help each other when we need it but no one had to be the screw bitch keeps pride intact.
> That being said i agree with slim fat max all the way but get the 16' and a 25' throw the 25 in your tool bucket only use it for measuring board counts there to big for boarding with the 16' is what you want to use no one goes back after trying one.
> next try stabbing your saw into the spot your measuring from the corner or the butt you last installed". this gives you somthing strong to hook your tape on so you can pull it tight with your tape hand and push the floppy middle in with your other and your tape will not unhook on ya.
> then when you have your measurment you can just pull your saw out much beter than using a screw that you might forget about or a helper "thats a waste of time"
> hope that helps


usg attack dog- harvv or did you meam harve- who i have been in battle with for twenty years. you sly little cutty girl boy


----------



## harvey randall

usg ownes this site. they stole my tape on, but oh well- so sorry for my big mouth. i did invent tape on i did invent vynal i did-they own this sight now,. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ has exchanged haNDS. WE NEED A NEW PRISTINE SITE. THIS OBE ONE KENOBE HAS A STENCH. SEE YA DOWEN THE ROAD FELLAHS.


----------



## gordie

2buckcanuck said:


> Throw your silly pride out the window, and learn to make competition amongst your selves , makes for good money:yes:
> 
> Should always be a cutter and then a tacker, toss a coin if you must, or,,,, sometimes one guy has a better flow on the big and lids, well the other is better at the small (piece in), trade back and forth.
> 
> If doing a up stairs of a shack for example. Do ALL the lids, then the big, hit the small, then screw it off..... and get rid of your drywall lift if your acting as a crew, don't be a pussy. and lay your drywall piles on the floor, your a canuck, not a yankie :thumbsup:


 Ok i do know what you mean 2buck we do most of our board the same way.
But I've worked with only my brother as my main partner we've tried other guys out over the years"guy's with experience" and that isn't worth it .
this topic was tricks of the trade and Harv there was asking how to take the long measurements on his own i think i explained how to do it and a good method at that i never get some one to hold my tape like i said waste of time.
In earlier post's I wrote about my lift and like i said i was drunk and didn't make a'lot of sense "hanging alone". sorry bout that hurt my brain reading that.
Now as far as working alone goes there are a lot of guys that do it and a couple are very good and fast, I learned these systems and they are very handy to know because your partner is not always their.
once you know how to do it you never miss a beat your partner can stop do something else and you can carry on, when he is back you can go back to paring up "one cutting one routing and screwing off" we both take measurements who ever is closest. 
Also my brother has been my partner boarding for 7 years and my brother for 39 years and we just like to work alone from time to time.never been sick of your bro"
Now with the lift you might think the're crap a'lot of people do. Well I'm glad we had to use one.When we started 7 years ago it was doing a 9 story condo building. The whole crew on the building told us our boss was a scam and would rip us at the end of the exterior boarding we were doing.
The two other guys the boss hired quit right then, me and bro did not but we convinced the owner of the building "he is the only builder i have ever worked for who dosn't use a d.c he handles the drywall himself he was a waller when he was young and not so rich".We convinced him buy telling him we were gonna quit because we didn't trust our boss for good reason.
The owner under stood and offered us a chance to learn on his many condos, that him and his brother could help us learn if we got that exterior up. The stucco guys were waiting for walls to work on and he needed us.Now that was a relief we took his offer it worked out great and we learned how to wall stealstud condos like no ones business"the boss hooked us up with a couple of old french guys that helped us learn tks jhon luk".

Kind of lucky for us before the condo's were done a d.c in Kelowna also a friend from high school "ya he got off the weed and became something haha" found out we were boarding,came looked at our work and offered us some houses he had coming up .
Well we weren't ready as we may have thought and right away with the new heights like 9', 10' lids,and garages where you sloped from one end to the other posed serous problem back then lol.
That was quite awhile ago and we did put the lift away after getting the hang of boarding with out it don't worry about us.The thing is we are good with a lift cause we had to use one and when did we meat other guys who used them and swear buy them we picked up there tricks. And I'm sorry they go fast and i can too they do work weather any body believes me i don't care. Now i have added stilts to my game i brought my lift back out of retirement we do 9 and 10' with it . I go up and measure route and screw my bro cuts and loads it works fu#$ing wicked . Rooms with high lids are always big so a lift moves great and now when i do them i have no cords or ladders. 

My drywall wall piles are loaded on the floor 90% of the time I don't really care how it comes . I just prefer it on walls so i don't have to bend my back every time I cut .when its on the wall you just walk to the pile and cut when it's on the ground you flip it up and cut or bend down and do it. I'm 6'6" i flip'em up. 

Drywall is light for me i used to struggle like everyone else, now i lift weights three days a week and put up 9000 sq every week "my half the board count".Its not a heroic amount but when i need to i can race it's fun but it where's you down and you just slow down after pay day.

My latest challenge is training my first full time grunt my son. It's hard to explain what you know how to do without thinking about. So im trying to get better at explaining also remembering how i learned.You guys have been very helpful tks for that man. 

I didn't want to do anymore long winded bullsh#t stuff any more, just needed to exp that i know many ways to get it done. I like to use what is good and throw away the not to do's.Hence my interest in this particular post"tricks of the trade".some guys work on their own some guys have teams no need for anyone to stop most tricks work for everyone.


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> oh,,,,They dont start spitting till they run out of fuel....
> 
> You would LOVE working with me Slim!!!:yes:


I'm sure I would, as soon as I made you stop doing the things that going to kill me or bug me to death! :jester:

You wouldn't like working with me....I don't listen to music


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gordie said:


> Ok i do know what you mean 2buck we do most of our board the same way.
> But I've worked with only my brother as my main partner we've tried other guys out over the years"guy's with experience" and that isn't worth it .
> this topic was tricks of the trade and Harv there was asking how to take the long measurements on his own i think i explained how to do it and a good method at that i never get some one to hold my tape like i said waste of time.
> In earlier post's I wrote about my lift and like i said i was drunk and didn't make a'lot of sense "hanging alone". sorry bout that hurt my brain reading that.
> Now as far as working alone goes there are a lot of guys that do it and a couple are very good and fast, I learned these systems and they are very handy to know because your partner is not always their.
> once you know how to do it you never miss a beat your partner can stop do something else and you can carry on, when he is back you can go back to paring up "one cutting one routing and screwing off" we both take measurements who ever is closest.
> Also my brother has been my partner boarding for 7 years and my brother for 39 years and we just like to work alone from time to time.never been sick of your bro"
> Now with the lift you might think the're crap a'lot of people do. Well I'm glad we had to use one.When we started 7 years ago it was doing a 9 story condo building. The whole crew on the building told us our boss was a scam and would rip us at the end of the exterior boarding we were doing.
> The two other guys the boss hired quit right then, me and bro did not but we convinced the owner of the building "he is the only builder i have ever worked for who dosn't use a d.c he handles the drywall himself he was a waller when he was young and not so rich".We convinced him buy telling him we were gonna quit because we didn't trust our boss for good reason.
> The owner under stood and offered us a chance to learn on his many condos, that him and his brother could help us learn if we got that exterior up. The stucco guys were waiting for walls to work on and he needed us.Now that was a relief we took his offer it worked out great and we learned how to wall stealstud condos like no ones business"the boss hooked us up with a couple of old french guys that helped us learn tks jhon luk".
> 
> Kind of lucky for us before the condo's were done a d.c in Kelowna also a friend from high school "ya he got off the weed and became something haha" found out we were boarding,came looked at our work and offered us some houses he had coming up .
> Well we weren't ready as we may have thought and right away with the new heights like 9', 10' lids,and garages where you sloped from one end to the other posed serous problem back then lol.
> That was quite awhile ago and we did put the lift away after getting the hang of boarding with out it don't worry about us.The thing is we are good with a lift cause we had to use one and when did we meat other guys who used them and swear buy them we picked up there tricks. And I'm sorry they go fast and i can too they do work weather any body believes me i don't care. Now i have added stilts to my game i brought my lift back out of retirement we do 9 and 10' with it . I go up and measure route and screw my bro cuts and loads it works fu#$ing wicked . Rooms with high lids are always big so a lift moves great and now when i do them i have no cords or ladders.
> 
> My drywall wall piles are loaded on the floor 90% of the time I don't really care how it comes . I just prefer it on walls so i don't have to bend my back every time I cut .when its on the wall you just walk to the pile and cut when it's on the ground you flip it up and cut or bend down and do it. I'm 6'6" i flip'em up.
> 
> Drywall is light for me i used to struggle like everyone else, now i lift weights three days a week and put up 9000 sq every week "my half the board count".Its not a heroic amount but when i need to i can race it's fun but it where's you down and you just slow down after pay day.
> 
> My latest challenge is training my first full time grunt my son. It's hard to explain what you know how to do without thinking about. So im trying to get better at explaining also remembering how i learned.You guys have been very helpful tks for that man.
> 
> I didn't want to do anymore long winded bullsh#t stuff any more, just needed to exp that i know many ways to get it done. I like to use what is good and throw away the not to do's.Hence my interest in this particular post"tricks of the trade".some guys work on their own some guys have teams no need for anyone to stop most tricks work for everyone.


You lift weights 3 days a week:blink:........Well sir Gordie:whistling2:

High ceilings is one place I have used the Lift, but it might deal more with me being a chicken chit with heights. I too like to cut the sheet against the wall, but I'd rather toss a sheet against the wall, than move a whole pile of drywall stacked against the wall that's in my way.

Here's a thread for you http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/extra-tall-stilts-1381/ there is a recent one called Mexican stilts also...

We also never stay on topic with this site, has it's pro's and con's, but at least the mods give you freedom, and don't chew you out for going off topic, like other sites:furious:

Looks like your a fast typer, and that you have learned to post in the morning when your sober, and to read at night when your drunk..... enjoy DWT, there's lots of info on here:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> I'm sure I would, as soon as I made you stop doing the things that going to kill me or bug me to death! :jester:
> 
> You wouldn't like working with me....I don't listen to music


You listen to talk radio podcast like me ,,,,, don't you Slim:yes:

Keep yourself educated and informed,,, food for the brain:thumbsup:


----------



## gordie

So here is a lift trick. Doing parking lots your lid's are three layers of 5/8, we don't pull the tabs on the first layer just load both sheets on the lift and install two at a time. " One guy ".
then me and my son come behind with the last layer "staggering the joints and it's money. "no lift"

O yea glue, nails,screws are not tricks just crap you have to use I don,t use nails myself I admit I suck with'em, used to wood frame it's been so long now I suck with spikes too fu#@ing embarrassing. glue is up to the d.c. period. When doing houses they usually want it"makes the taper happy, and it does help with framing".Condos rare, can't use it on fire walls and most other walls are small." why pay for glue right" . Either way don't care just do what d.c wants.

And it doesn't matter screw guns are great don't care who's better old guy's can make nails fly i go like sh#t with a screw gun it's not worth it to learn to nail because most people just want screws and no one wants to watch some one put in bad nails i'll tell you that.

Guy's that are good with nails great for you, but no one is gonna pick it up anymore most of you guy,s are getting on no big deal your probably good or you would be told to stop Im sure. I just don't think it's a trick.

I personally think the work is better in Alberta but B.C. is way nicer if they didn't rob you like they do now there is nowhere i would rather be . and cowboy land is getting pretty cheap these days too.


----------



## gordie

2buckcanuck said:


> You lift weights 3 days a week:blink:........Well sir Gordie:whistling2:
> 
> High ceilings is one place I have used the Lift, but it might deal more with me being a chicken chit with heights. I too like to cut the sheet against the wall, but I'd rather toss a sheet against the wall, than move a whole pile of drywall stacked against the wall that's in my way.
> 
> Here's a thread for you http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/extra-tall-stilts-1381/ there is a recent one called Mexican stilts also...
> 
> We also never stay on topic with this site, has it's pro's and con's, but at least the mods give you freedom, and don't chew you out for going off topic, like other sites:furious:
> 
> Looks like your a fast typer, and that you have learned to post in the morning when your sober, and to read at night when your drunk..... enjoy DWT, there's lots of info on here:thumbup:




HA ha i know "lift wieghts three times a week" what a *** i am.
i was trying to make sure no one thought i was a pussy and now you no for sure i am lol.

and i know this site is way more than just for info i like the bs'n too just that the taper's and taper boarder,s tell u some stuff and the strait boarders just seamed to be braggin a bit with no usefull info.
if your good you should have great tricks . tks again slim the 1,2,3,4,5,6,7 trick works good just got to get used to it.


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> You listen to talk radio podcast like me ,,,,, don't you Slim:yes:
> 
> 
> 
> Keep yourself educated and informed,,, food for the brain:thumbsup:



I work in the QUIET, mainly because I can never hear a radio, or the ipod doesn't work when it's cold or the headphone cords get all tangled up, or because I have the original Bosch radio with crap reception and can't stand listening to the same CD all day because it takes too much time and energy to change the CD after the last one is over and because however much fun it is to listen to music I think better when it's QUIET. :yes:
These guys are rubbing off on me with the run-on sentences I find myself typing lately because I'm too lazy to take break to add punctuation and find it easier to just keep typing and typing and typing at the same speed that the thoughts are rolling around my head while I stare at the keys trying not to make a mistake:laughing:


----------



## gordie

SlimPickins said:


> I work in the QUIET, mainly because I can never hear a radio, or the ipod doesn't work when it's cold or the headphone cords get all tangled up, or because I have the original Bosch radio with crap reception and can't stand listening to the same CD all day because it takes too much time and energy to change the CD after the last one is over and because however much fun it is to listen to music I think better when it's QUIET. :yes:
> [/LIST]
> These guys are rubbing off on me with the run-on sentences I find myself typing lately because I'm too lazy to take break to add punctuation and find it easier to just keep typing and typing and typing at the same speed that the thoughts are rolling around my head while I stare at the keys trying not to make a mistake:laughing:



I know thought i used enough punctuation guess not.

Gonna quit explaining myself im just saying the same crap over again there" no way anyone would give a sh#t. haha

reading about sanding right now should keep me busy.

like i said tried that measuring trick its work for me tks!


----------



## SlimPickins

gordie said:


> I know thought i used enough punctuation guess not.


Dude! I wasn't calling you out on your grammar....I was making fun of myself for not adding punctuation.

Here's the thing about me....

I usually keep my mouth shut about how other people act. IF I decide to say something, it's usually just once. I don't feel as if I'm the type to beat a dead horse. 

You've improved remarkably, and I think it shows. I haven't been paying attention all that much, but I would be guessing that people are responding to you with a little more frequency now. Am I right?

And as for tossing the eighths, I think it was someone else that suggested it. I used to call out numbers that way, but now my numbers are called out as sixteenths (lots more carpentry work), and when I give a "plus" or a "fat" or a "heavy" it refers to adding a 32nd instead of the sixteenth that it used to (as in "Yo.... Dusty!, I need a butt at 53 and 5 fat!" 53-5/8+ = 53-11/16)

Now, it's no surprise to hear me call out "163 and 3/4 heavy" Which should be interpreted as 163 and 25/32......


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Now, it's no surprise to hear me call out "163 and 3/4 heavy" Which should be interpreted as 163 and 25/32......


I was taught that any sheet over eight feet, to call out your measures in feet:yes:

Your way of calling out inches, you half to hook the tape on the end of the sheet, walk the length of the sheet, then score your mark. Too much walking, especially if your tape falls off walking half way down the sheet.

If you call it in feet, it would be 13' and 3/4's plus one pussy/_unt hair:whistling2:

So now I just half to walk up to the end of a 14' sheet, stick it in ONE foot, measure back 3/4's plus one pussy hair, and I have the measure.

It's like knowing when to get ten feet out of a 12' sheet, you will walk up to a sheet, and set your tape in at 2 feet and cut. If you needed 10'-6", same thing except,,,,,,, walk up to 12' sheet, set tape in at 2 foot mark(now your at 10' mark),,, hold it there,,,, from end of tape, move to your left to 6" mark, now your at 10'-6",,,,, cut:thumbup:.

Shouting measures in feet is faster:yes:


----------



## chris

some guys are sharp enough to take it off in inches like take 22 4 off . I was taught to do 8ths as well. No feet. Sayn if your piece is 133 4 ( 133 inches and 4 8ths... or half... I say 4) then you just subtract it from 144 and viola:yes: in other words " Take 10 4 off"


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## Mudshark

:thumbsup: Right on Chris - thats the way I was taught.


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## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> :thumbsup: Right on Chris - thats the way I was taught.


But my way there's no adding and subtracting, so no thinking, so think about that:yes:


----------



## Mudshark

2buckcanuck said:


> But my way there's no adding and subtracting, so no thinking, so think about that:yes:


Boggles my mind to think about it. I think Chris is right though. :yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> Boggles my mind to think about it. I think Chris is right though. :yes:


Will half to make a vid one day.

It's hard to explain, even if someone is sitting right in front of you, but once you get up and show them, their like wow:blink:, that's so simple and easy. it's like having a slide ruler in your hand.

The less numbers you half to juggle and think in your head, then the more you can remember, the more numbers you can remember, the better cutter you are.

If a sheet is 12', and you got to make it 11-6", it should be a given a guy will know what to cut off without barely thinking about it (6"). But once you half to cut the sheet to say 11'-7"-3/8, now you half to start thinking and start running numbers in your head. My way you just half to remember the #


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> I was taught that any sheet over eight feet, to call out your measures in feet
> 
> Your way of calling out inches, you half to hook the tape on the end of the sheet, walk the length of the sheet, then score your mark. Too much walking, especially if your tape falls off walking half way down the sheet.
> 
> If you call it in feet, it would be 13' and 3/4's plus one pussy/_unt hair
> 
> So now I just half to walk up to the end of a 14' sheet, stick it in ONE foot, measure back 3/4's plus one pussy hair, and I have the measure.
> 
> It's like knowing when to get ten feet out of a 12' sheet, you will walk up to a sheet, and set your tape in at 2 feet and cut. If you needed 10'-6", same thing except,,,,,,, walk up to 12' sheet, set tape in at 2 foot mark(now your at 10' mark),,, hold it there,,,, from end of tape, move to your left to 6" mark, now your at 10'-6",,,,, cut.
> 
> Shouting measures in feet is faster


We never stock any boards over 12' down here, at least in my area. Also, these numbers are for wood, which is never the same length so any subtractive measuring would end up with inaccurate pieces. 

As for using your method on rock, I just never developed the method you're talking about. I'm a hook-the-end-of-the-sheet-and-walk kind of guy :yes: (which by default makes me slower)

And, have you noticed that drywall is not exactly 4x8 or 4x12 anymore? I don't know how much they save by shaving an eighth of both dimensions, but after a million sheets it must be pretty substantial (not that an eighth matters when cutting drywall:whistling2


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> We never stock any boards over 12' down here, at least in my area. Also, these numbers are for wood, which is never the same length so any subtractive measuring would end up with inaccurate pieces.
> 
> As for using your method on rock, I just never developed the method you're talking about. I'm a hook-the-end-of-the-sheet-and-walk kind of guy :yes: (which by default makes me slower)
> 
> And, have you noticed that drywall is not exactly 4x8 or 4x12 anymore? I don't know how much they save by shaving an eighth of both dimensions, but after a million sheets it must be pretty substantial (not that an eighth matters when cutting drywall)


Thank god, someone who understands what I'm talking about:thumbup:

yes we only stock 12's too (had to pull out calculator for your 163" measure) no it don't work on wood. You basically have a 1/4 play with the big,so:yes:..... and yes, once your down to 8's, no big deal to hook the tape after that.


----------



## chris

2buckcanuck said:


> But my way there's no adding and subtracting, so no thinking, so think about that:yes:


 Its really pretty easy.


----------



## gazman

If you blokes had a chance to use the metric system you would never look back.:yes:
It is just an easier system.:yes:


----------



## gordie

SlimPickins said:


> Dude! I wasn't calling you out on your grammar....I was making fun of myself for not adding punctuation.
> 
> Here's the thing about me....
> 
> I usually keep my mouth shut about how other people act. IF I decide to say something, it's usually just once. I don't feel as if I'm the type to beat a dead horse.
> 
> You've improved remarkably, and I think it shows. I haven't been paying attention all that much, but I would be guessing that people are responding to you with a little more frequency now. Am I right?
> 
> And as for tossing the eighths, I think it was someone else that suggested it. I used to call out numbers that way, but now my numbers are called out as sixteenths (lots more carpentry work), and when I give a "plus" or a "fat" or a "heavy" it refers to adding a 32nd instead of the sixteenth that it used to (as in "Yo.... Dusty!, I need a butt at 53 and 5 fat!" 53-5/8+ = 53-11/16)
> 
> Now, it's no surprise to hear me call out "163 and 3/4 heavy" Which should be interpreted as 163 and 25/32......



I thought you were trying out my wrighting style .

guess im reading to much and i can't remember who said what but the measuring trick works good not gonna bother figuring who said it.

tks dudes you all help thats cool:thumbsup:

I know u guys for the most part use zooks so do most out here but do you think is would be easyer just to use a super taper at first im good on stilts and probably will only tape 1 out of 4 units i board ??

Got to make a living first and im good at that.

Im gonna buy new tools and the newer tapers out here "less experinced" all use boxes, flushers, rollers, and S.T. and ive gotten honest answers to that they just say it,s hard to get the hang of a zook. not that an S.T. is better i don't really think to many out here would turn down a 1700$ tool bling bling."zooks just look cool"

Was gonna buy the B.T.E. set but seems to me other companies make better tubes, flushers that kind of thing. cash isnt the prob inexperiance on my part is.


No one uses banjo's out here nothin against any tool just need stuff that my guy can show me on .


----------



## gordie

should have posted that last one on a different thread sorry kind of off subject there.:whistling2:


----------



## Philma Crevices

A cheap banjo would be a better start for ya than a super taper in my opinion, there's not really a learning curve to them, watch a video and you'd be good to go. You'd want roller and glazer/flusher to go with that.


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> Thank god, someone who understands what I'm talking about:thumbup:
> 
> yes we only stock 12's too (had to pull out calculator for your 163" measure) no it don't work on wood. You basically have a 1/4 play with the big,so:yes:..... and yes, once your down to 8's, no big deal to hook the tape after that.


Yes I understand:yes:, I was simply never taught that way, so I haven't put it into practice.

I generally keep my numbers in inches, and pull off the end that's staying on the board. For me, it's easier to keep track of just the inches....I find myself counting inches when using feet.....maybe not on anything under 12', but definitely when I start getting out into numbers that I don't recognize as readily (96, 120, 132, 144, etc) like 173 - 5/16ths. I think we've talked about this before? And I think my thought was that I don't want to differentiate between when I need an accurate number and when I don't. I want all my numbers to be accurate, in all tasks (wood, drywall, metal siding, whatever) so I pull the length I need, not the length that looks like how much should come off. 

As for how much time it takes....I'm just slow, that's that!


----------



## gordie

gordie said:


> should have posted that last one on a different thread sorry kind of off subject there.:whistling2:


boarder wants to learn to tape is a better thread for this ? sorry guys don't want to bog this thread up.


----------



## chris

iTS DRYWALL not Rockette Sighence. Inches and 8ths. If you want to get technical use "Fat" and "Tight". Been doing some woodwork lately and I havnt ruined anything yet. I frame and do grid as well and have done finish work ( trims and base) and hang all the bead . It works. If math aint your thing then try 2bucks way:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> Its really pretty easy.


Think !!!! working with 2bjr:whistling2:



gazman said:


> If you blokes had a chance to use the metric system you would never look back.:yes:
> It is just an easier system.:yes:


I knew you would pipe in with the metric system

The Americans will never go for it,,,,,,,,,, France invented it:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> iTS DRYWALL not Rockette Sighence. Inches and 8ths. If you want to get technical use "Fat" and "Tight". Been doing some woodwork lately and I havnt ruined anything yet. I frame and do grid as well and have done finish work ( trims and base) and hang all the bead . It works. If math aint your thing then try 2bucks way:whistling2:


Think your missing the point

It's not about ones Math ability, it's memory and speed. You should be able to hold about 8 numbers in your head. I have seen so many guys walk to a sheet, calculating the # in their head to cut off the end of the sheet, then forget their next #. My method it is already spelled out for you, so your thinking a HEAD with your numbers:yes:


----------



## gordie

2buckcanuck said:


> I was taught that any sheet over eight feet, to call out your measures in feet:yes:
> 
> Your way of calling out inches, you half to hook the tape on the end of the sheet, walk the length of the sheet, then score your mark. Too much walking, especially if your tape falls off walking half way down the sheet.
> 
> If you call it in feet, it would be 13' and 3/4's plus one pussy/_unt hair:whistling2:
> 
> So now I just half to walk up to the end of a 14' sheet, stick it in ONE foot, measure back 3/4's plus one pussy hair, and I have the measure.
> 
> It's like knowing when to get ten feet out of a 12' sheet, you will walk up to a sheet, and set your tape in at 2 feet and cut. If you needed 10'-6", same thing except,,,,,,, walk up to 12' sheet, set tape in at 2 foot mark(now your at 10' mark),,, hold it there,,,, from end of tape, move to your left to 6" mark, now your at 10'-6",,,,, cut:thumbup:.
> 
> Shouting measures in feet is faster:yes:



So would you call out 10' 6" and a fraction if needed like 5/8 or 1/4.?

im not chit talkin ya i am interested thats my worst fu#@ up is forgetting #"S ..:blink:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gordie said:


> So would you call out 10' 6" and a fraction if needed like 5/8 or 1/4.?
> 
> im not chit talkin ya i am interested thats my worst fu#@ up is forgetting #"S ..:blink:


Think I can show how to do it by posting pics, it's just a simplistic way to cut. There's a sheet of drywall in the house were doing, so if it's still there tomorrow:whistling2:

Just don't know what name to give to the thread:blink:


----------



## SlimPickins

I surrender. You guys are just too smart for me.


----------



## Mudshark

2buck - stop now before you make a fool of yourself. 

You are not a boarder any more. Stick to taping!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> 2buck - stop now before you make a fool of yourself.
> 
> You are not a boarder any more. Stick to taping!



Mudshark
 online
 

Trade: drywaller - do it all but prefer to be a finisher
 Location: Nanaimo, BC
 

Job Title: drywaller
Company Name: Mudshark Drywall
 

 Biography:
 Joined: 02/07/2009 | Last Login: 01/02/2013 follow message 


But I want to be confusing like you, call my self a drywaller, but say I prefer finishing.


----------



## Mudshark

2buckcanuck said:


> But I want to be confusing like you, call my self a drywaller, but say I prefer finishing.


:blink: Hmmm - didnt realize it was confusing you. Maybe the term drywaller to some infers drywall finishing only? To me a drywaller can be either a boarder or a taper. In my case I do both but would be happy enough to have someone else do the boarding and I will do the finishing. If it still confuses you, run it by 2buckjr., maybe he can explain it for you.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> :blink: Hmmm - didnt realize it was confusing you. Maybe the term drywaller to some infers drywall finishing only? To me a drywaller can be either a boarder or a taper. In my case I do both but would be happy enough to have someone else do the boarding and I will do the finishing. If it still confuses you, run it by 2buckjr., maybe he can explain it for you.


Not where I'm from:thumbup:
The guy who installs, main two terms we use is drywaller or boarder...

Guy who finishes it,,, taper or mudder (mudder being slang)

If I were to look in the classifieds, it will say drywallers wanted, or drywall boarders/tapers wanted.

Never really heard the term drywall finishers till I found this site:yes:


----------



## gordie

2buckcanuck said:


> Think I can show how to do it by posting pics, it's just a simplistic way to cut. There's a sheet of drywall in the house were doing, so if it's still there tomorrow:whistling2:
> 
> Just don't know what name to give to the thread:blink:


 Right on man those vids and pic are great you guys do. I'll keep checking for new post with your name ..I surf the new ones first then usually crack a beer and start sifting thruough the old stuff.. Finally got to work yesterday still wont get anything loaded t'll monday.. "only in sask"..:whistling2:

My back hurts from sitting on my ass kind of backwards.. I hope i don't have to drywall to stay healthy now but i bet thats exactly how it works


----------



## gordie

I like the one guys use on here "dumwaller" gonna steal that one.


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Mudshark
> online
> 
> Trade: drywaller - do it all but prefer to be a finisher
> Location: Nanaimo, BC
> 
> Job Title: drywaller
> Company Name: Mudshark Drywall
> 
> Biography:
> Joined: 02/07/2009 | Last Login: 01/02/2013 follow message
> 
> 
> But I want to be confusing like you, call my self a drywaller, but say I prefer finishing.





Mudshark said:


> :blink: Hmmm - didnt realize it was confusing you. Maybe the term drywaller to some infers drywall finishing only? To me a drywaller can be either a boarder or a taper. In my case I do both but would be happy enough to have someone else do the boarding and I will do the finishing. If it still confuses you, run it by 2buckjr., maybe he can explain it for you.





2buckcanuck said:


> Not where I'm from:thumbup:
> The guy who installs, main two terms we use is drywaller or boarder...
> 
> Guy who finishes it,,, taper or mudder (mudder being slang)
> 
> If I were to look in the classifieds, it will say drywallers wanted, or drywall boarders/tapers wanted.
> 
> Never really heard the term drywall finishers till I found this site:yes:


' Drywaller' Hanger/finisher/texture/No paint!

hanger- hangs
finisher-finishes unless your Mexican.....Then your ....well...Just a Mexican!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## carpentaper

i've always hated the term mudder. i prefer finisher but will accept taper.


----------



## snagmaster

gordie said:


> So would you call out 10' 6" and a fraction if needed like 5/8 or 1/4.?
> 
> im not chit talkin ya i am interested thats my worst fu#@ up is forgetting #"S ..:blink:


 
126 and 5 is the way we say 10'6''and 5/8:yes:


----------



## Mudshark

snagmaster said:


> 126 and 5 is the way we say 10'6''and 5/8:yes:


Exactly right :thumbsup:


----------



## SlimPickins

snagmaster said:


> 126 and 5 is the way we say 10'6''and 5/8:yes:


Sometimes I like to f*** with myself and call it out in Roman Numerals. 

So, 126 and 5 would be CXXVI and V. (Not really, but it looks hilarious to me now that I've typed it out :laughing

Sometimes though, I'll call out a fraction in 256ths, just to be an assmunch. 

I wish we had the metric system


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Think your missing the point
> 
> It's not about ones Math ability, it's memory and speed. You should be able to hold about 8 numbers in your head. I have seen so many guys walk to a sheet, calculating the # in their head to cut off the end of the sheet, then forget their next #. My method it is already spelled out for you, so your thinking a HEAD with your numbers:yes:


 Hold 8 numbers in your head? :no:


----------



## gazman

SlimPickins said:


> I wish we had the metric system


All you need is a metric tape:yes:. You dont need the governments permission.


----------



## SlimPickins

gazman said:


> All you need is a metric tape:yes:. You dont need the governments permission.


But all of our walls are framed imperial, and our sheetrock comes in feet and inches :whistling2::blink::laughing:


----------



## Mudshark

gazman said:


> All you need is a metric tape:yes:. You dont need the governments permission.


No question about it the metric system is far better than our old one. Unfortunately for us in Canada we are supposed to be metric but some things like construction material hasn't fullty switched over yet so we need to know and work with both. :blink:


----------



## SlimPickins

Mudshark said:


> No question about it the metric system is far better than our old one. Unfortunately for us in Canada we are supposed to be metric but some things like construction material hasn't fullty switched over yet so we need to know and work with both. :blink:


That's the problem right there....I can't work with both, I get confused pretty darn something or other but.........huh?


----------



## harvey randall

SlimPickins said:


> Dude! I wasn't calling you out on your grammar....I was making fun of myself for not adding punctuation.
> 
> Here's the thing about me....
> 
> I usually keep my mouth shut about how other people act. IF I decide to say something, it's usually just once. I don't feel as if I'm the type to beat a dead horse.
> 
> You've improved remarkably, and I think it shows. I haven't been paying attention all that much, but I would be guessing that people are responding to you with a little more frequency now. Am I right?
> 
> And as for tossing the eighths, I think it was someone else that suggested it. I used to call out numbers that way, but now my numbers are called out as sixteenths (lots more carpentry work), and when I give a "plus" or a "fat" or a "heavy" it refers to adding a 32nd instead of the sixteenth that it used to (as in "Yo.... Dusty!, I need a butt at 53 and 5 fat!" 53-5/8+ = 53-11/16)
> 
> Now, it's no surprise to hear me call out "163 and 3/4 heavy" Which should be interpreted as 163 and 25/32......


:blink:


----------



## harvey randall

chris said:


> some guys are sharp enough to take it off in inches like take 22 4 off . I was taught to do 8ths as well. No feet. Sayn if your piece is 133 4 ( 133 inches and 4 8ths... or half... I say 4) then you just subtract it from 144 and viola:yes: in other words " Take 10 4 off"


 so if the sheet is 15 ft long, and my measurement is 14 ft 7inch, i just walk to the end with a square,tape and knife and hack off 5 inches ? oh man -you are CRAZY..................................wow lets just go the the moon.


----------



## SlimPickins

harvey randall said:


> so if the sheet is 15 ft long, and my measurement is 14 ft 7inch, i just walk to the end with a square,tape and knife and hack off 5 inches ? oh man -you are CRAZY..................................wow lets just go the the moon.


No kidding....how the hell are we supposed to get any exercise? And, I didn't sign on for subtraction...that's like....math and stuff. :mellow:


----------



## harvey randall

SlimPickins said:


> No kidding....how the hell are we supposed to get any exercise? And, I didn't sign on for subtraction...that's like....math and stuff. :mellow:


 you and moore and a few more are the stuff that great is made of. the canada,canuck-shanook . i cant even image play ing with you guys. what ever will become of my sweet girl ? incase- i cant be there. not good. i dont care abouy my death anymore, got over that. just concerned about the sweet girl.


----------



## Mudstar

you guys have too much time on your hands now get back to work you slackers


----------



## Arey85

http://youtu.be/dn9CAizsETo

This is how we third coat our screws. What do you think? Good system?


----------



## SlimPickins

Arey85 said:


> http://youtu.be/dn9CAizsETo
> 
> This is how we third coat our screws. What do you think? Good system?


:lol:

I'm sold. My old system was f***ed up.....this is the way to go........Bro!:whistling2:


----------



## moore

Arey85 said:


> http://youtu.be/dn9CAizsETo
> 
> This is how we third coat our screws. What do you think? Good system?


 WAS that Brightstar or mudstar?:blink:


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

moore said:


> WAS that Brightstar or mudstar?:blink:


No no no. He is Canadian.


----------



## Arey85

That video I posted was filmed after I had my partner watch this guy. http://youtu.be/zdzSM6nA8kY


----------



## moore

Arey85 said:


> That video I posted was filmed after I had my partner watch this guy. http://youtu.be/zdzSM6nA8kY


 Another lesson from brightstar's barn :jester:


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

moore said:


> Another lesson from brightstar's barn :jester:


Oh, brother. I don't think so. He needs to sign up for mesh 101.


----------



## ubcguy89

when hanging on metal studs, screw the open end first. thet way both sheets will lay flat on the stud. 
glue all residential lids
dont lay commercial sheets down 
dont nail anything
crimp and staple your corner bead
hatchet not a hammer
level your first sheet
my personal preference, I always start one sheet off of a corner and run the whole wall then come back and hang the first sheet
when applicable screw your slammer through the back of the board into the slammer


----------



## harvey randall

*why*



catisred said:


> yes, you are right, exprience is much important.
> 
> it produces high quality.


 why are we still trying to throw stone-GYPSUM) when it should weigh 75% less for a synthetic- maybe we are locked into breaking our ass mind control.


----------



## chris

ubcguy89 said:


> when hanging on metal studs, screw the open end first. thet way both sheets will lay flat on the stud.
> glue all residential lids
> dont lay commercial sheets down
> dont nail anything
> crimp and staple your corner bead
> hatchet not a hammer
> level your first sheet
> my personal preference, I always start one sheet off of a corner and run the whole wall then come back and hang the first sheet
> when applicable screw your slammer through the back of the board into the slammer


Why not lay comm. sheets down? Just curious as to what the unions take is.


----------



## boco

chris said:


> Why not lay comm. sheets down? Just curious as to what the unions take is.


 two problems may occur when laying sheets down on commercial jobs. Baseboard is usually cove base and the ceilings normally have drop ceilings. You may need to fill in the bevels.


----------



## chris

Thank you,so quality of drywall finish is compromised because of rubber base:blink: . Dont walls have to go higher than ceiling to have a suspended ceiling:blink: thus burying the bevel? There must be a more logical reason as to why .


----------



## Deezal

The reason has to do with backing behind the edge of the sheet, when you lay down sheets your bevel is across studs and you have alot of air gaps between studs, when you stand up if the wall is a full sheet or under you will have the edge of your sheet completely backed by the metal. This is extremely important for fire rateing and even more important for smoke or air seals in places with labs etc Ie. universities. Furthermore the interior partition system was simply designed this way ( hard and soft edges) the flimsiness of the stud itself requires special attention when screwing and unless you mark 16s out along your bevel and pull every stud to your mark, which I find a pain in the ass because you can't just mark 16s you get gaps and framer problems so you constantly have to re-check studs etc, that last thing sounded like nonsense but flimsy stud means unless you set proper your insulator( which is usually me anyways) has to end up cutting or putting wedges In because the drywaller shoulda stuck to housing. Gcs don't tend to like to see wavy **** on there jobs either. This all being said I lay down on steel also( sometimes if you framer sucked balls you have no choice)


----------



## Galaman

Never use sheetrock on paper tape, compound will stick way better.


----------



## ubcguy89

chris said:


> Thank you,so quality of drywall finish is compromised because of rubber base:blink: . Dont walls have to go higher than ceiling to have a suspended ceiling:blink: thus burying the bevel? There must be a more logical reason as to why .


no walls do not have to go higher than the ceiling. sometimes the walls only go to the ceiling


----------



## Toontowntaper

Any drop ceiling I have seen goes past the actual grid for the drop ceiling so who ever is just putting the drywall on the walls to the exact line of the grid they are doing way to much work. The drywall on the walls are ran wild


----------



## moore

ubcguy89 said:


> no walls do not have to go higher than the ceiling. sometimes the walls only go to the ceiling


:blink: I don't want to run that top recess! I DON'T WANNA!


----------



## ubcguy89

Toontowntaper said:


> Any drop ceiling I have seen goes past the actual grid for the drop ceiling so who ever is just putting the drywall on the walls to the exact line of the grid they are doing way to much work. The drywall on the walls are ran wild


In some cases yes but we get alot of prints that spec attaching interior partition walls to the grid. Your wall then goes about 1/2" down from the grid and you finish with tear away bead


----------



## Toontowntaper

The drop ceilings I have done are never like that....what is the reasoning behind attaching the grid to the framing when you can so that through your drywall which you have to hit studs. There is no reason for doing it that way and a waste of time and money.


----------



## Philma Crevices

We do this all the time with reno's. I guess there's enough money saved by not replacing as much t-bar


----------



## Square Foot

Toontowntaper said:


> The drop ceilings I have done are never like that....what is the reasoning behind attaching the grid to the framing when you can so that through your drywall which you have to hit studs. There is no reason for doing it that way and a waste of time and money.


Done a few commercial jobs like this over the yrs. many times the hangers will not gap it properly, leaving the the finishers to cut it back so the L bead or tear away can be installed. 

Have to agree....it's a PITA:furious:


----------



## boco

The trick of the trade is when you have 8ft partition walls. Stand up . Tape, sand. prime, first coat of finish paint. Then install wall angle for acoustic ceillings at 7' 11". Anything other then that is just more work.


----------



## ubcguy89

Toontowntaper said:


> The drop ceilings I have done are never like that....what is the reasoning behind attaching the grid to the framing when you can so that through your drywall which you have to hit studs. There is no reason for doing it that way and a waste of time and money.


I can tell you are not a carpenter, because they are not called drop ceilings they are called accoustical ceilings. second you should never attach your wall mold to studs because it will eventually cause your joints to crack. you should screw your wall mold every 8 to 10'' into the drywall, the reason is your wall mold should hold no weight, dont believe me look it up on the Armostrong specs. It may seem like a waste of time and money, but believe me It cost less overall to do it this way. less wall mold, less scribes, shorter studs, less insulation, less man hours.


----------



## Toontowntaper

ubcguy89 said:


> I can tell you are not a carpenter, because they are not called drop ceilings they are called accoustical ceilings. second you should never attach your wall mold to studs because it will eventually cause your joints to crack. you should screw your wall mold every 8 to 10'' into the drywall, the reason is your wall mold should hold no weight, dont believe me look it up on the Armostrong specs. It may seem like a waste of time and money, but believe me It cost less overall to do it this way. less wall mold, less scribes, shorter studs, less insulation, less man hours.


Your right buddy I'm not a carpenter. However they are also known as a t-bar ceiling and a drop ceiling don't believe me look it up. Also maybe go look at the video tour I just put up a post earlier today maybe go look at those pictures before you open your mouth. Then tell me I don't know what I'm doing. And I will post more pictures of jobs I've done if you need more convincing. 

Sorry for this post sounding like a ****


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Toontowntaper said:


> Your right buddy I'm not a carpenter. However they are also known as a t-bar ceiling and a drop ceiling don't believe me look it up. Also maybe go look at the video tour I just put up a post earlier today maybe go look at those pictures before you open your mouth. Then tell me I don't know what I'm doing. And I will post more pictures of jobs I've done if you need more convincing.
> 
> Sorry for this post sounding like a ****


You forgot to say "suspended" ceilings also:whistling2:

Another term/word/slang used


----------



## Toontowntaper

Yes thanks 2 buck but were not carpenters we are just mere tapers. It's funny though how they were talking about putting up the ceiling withy he drywall ending 1/2" from the actual acoustical ceiling drop ceiling t-bar ceiling suspended ceiling. So answer me this then mr ubc how are you attaching your moulding to drywall if there is no drywall to attach to and simply wooden or steel studs. Maybe you should do some research . Before trying to convince me and others that you do in fact know how to install multiple different applications for the same system and yet multiple names. Also you do want to go into studs because the moulding helps to support the weight then you use ties to help level and support the main beams. But hey each to their own I guess I did that cabin wrong. And all the wood work in there must be wrong. And I'm not just a taper. But maybe the 35 houses I framed are also done wrong. And their finishing in there also.


----------



## chris

ubcguy89 said:


> no walls do not have to go higher than the ceiling. sometimes the walls only go to the ceiling


 The walls that only go to ceiling are walls put in AFTER the drop ceiling ( ACT), right:yes:


----------



## Toontowntaper

Sorry meant they should go into studs and should be screwed in every 16-24" however I prefer more screws the better and will often add bracing between studs where the moulding will go. But again what do I know maybe Chris can you help with this subject. Because I'm still confused as to what your attaching to if you don't attach to the studs when drywall is put on after the fact


----------



## chris

Toontowntaper said:


> Sorry meant they should go into studs and should be screwed in every 16-24" however I prefer more screws the better and will often add bracing between studs where the moulding will go. But again what do I know maybe Chris can you help with this subject. Because I'm still confused as to what your attaching to if you don't attach to the studs when drywall is put on after the fact


I think what he is talking is when you add a wall to an existing room that has a suspended ceiling (ACT) already in it. If so , simply attach track to T Bar if using metal studs, and after you have framed,, sheetrock leaving a 1/4" gap at top and put on zip-strip to finish to existing ceiling


----------



## Philma Crevices

Don't mind UBC.... us Carpenter Union guys are all real ass holes :thumbsup:


----------



## Toontowntaper

Not worried at all he just can't jump down my throat over common names for acoustical ceilings. And not expect a reply making it very clear that I do know what I'm talking about and have done multiple times ..... And the carpenter post was just a slap in the face not knowing what others do for work and simply assume they are just mere tapers. Or drywallers. That's why I said look at the video tour post if he doubted me


----------



## ubcguy89

chris said:


> The walls that only go to ceiling are walls put in AFTER the drop ceiling ( ACT), right:yes:


exactly you have no need for wall mold because you finish the top of the board with tear away bead


----------



## ubcguy89

Toontowntaper said:


> Not worried at all he just can't jump down my throat over common names for acoustical ceilings. And not expect a reply making it very clear that I do know what I'm talking about and have done multiple times ..... And the carpenter post was just a slap in the face not knowing what others do for work and simply assume they are just mere tapers. Or drywallers. That's why I said look at the video tour post if he doubted me


im not trying to be an ass, but many tennant build outs are done that way not to offset the price of steel studs. I am not saying you dont know what you are talking about, but the specs on commercial accoustical ceilings is your wall mold should hold no weight. in a residential ceiling that you use bailing wire to hold yes your wall angle can support weight


----------



## moore

After I walk away ...I really don't care how they DROP the ceilings! JS!!


----------



## Philma Crevices

Since we're on using zip strip heres a trick I use. Wherever zip meets in a interior corner existing or new I nip off a 1/4" of the zip tab to butt easily together and makes for easier tearing away. 

Some brands of zip take alot of pull to break it off and CAN crack if not enough staples were used/board hung a bit low, us a razor knife to start the break if needed :yes:

On cornerbeaded corners I 45 the "L" part where they meet to keep it flush so no issues with the tile sitting a bit uneven.


----------



## chris

Philma Crevices said:


> Since we're on using zip strip heres a trick I use. Wherever zip meets in a interior corner existing or new I nip off a 1/4" of the zip tab to butt easily together and makes for easier tearing away.
> 
> Some brands of zip take alot of pull to break it off and CAN crack if not enough staples were used/board hung a bit low, us a razor knife to start the break if needed :yes:
> 
> On cornerbeaded corners I 45 the "L" part where they meet to keep it flush so no issues with the tile sitting a bit uneven.


Needlenose pliers:thumbsup:. And dont pull the zip when wall or mud is still wet:yes::yes:


----------



## Philma Crevices

Good call on the pliers :yes: But that's another tool in the pocket for me, I always have a knife though


----------



## ubcguy89

Philma Crevices said:


> Since we're on using zip strip heres a trick I use. Wherever zip meets in a interior corner existing or new I nip off a 1/4" of the zip tab to butt easily together and makes for easier tearing away.
> 
> Some brands of zip take alot of pull to break it off and CAN crack if not enough staples were used/board hung a bit low, us a razor knife to start the break if needed :yes:
> 
> On cornerbeaded corners I 45 the "L" part where they meet to keep it flush so no issues with the tile sitting a bit uneven.


what do you mean by the L part?


----------



## Nick Harmon

Using a chunk of old carpet (4' x4') under your mixing area creates a no-slip, moisture absorbent surface. If spinning buckets bug you. Safer around stilts too.


----------



## boco

Nick Harmon said:


> Using a chunk of old carpet (4' x4') under your mixing area creates a no-slip, moisture absorbent surface. If spinning buckets bug you. Safer around stilts too.


 . Thats a good idea. though the retard i just hired last week would need a 10 x 10 size. What a ****in hog he is with the mixer. I dont think he will last very long. Just doesnt get it. I had him doing a Mod the other day and he decided to put his mixing station directly in front of some pretty sweet kitchen cabinets. then he coated 15 sticks of bead in 8 hours and wanted to know if i thought he was doing a good job. My reply. Good thing its by the hour.


----------



## Philma Crevices

ubcguy89 said:


> what do you mean by the L part?


The finished flange


----------



## harvey randall

*not thinkin*

i was 51 in kalispell mt. fri night and i was gonna be on the job next morn. some kid was cleaning his tennis shoes off in the water i got ready for tomorrow. i was exhausted, so i sat 0n a bucket and tried to reason with him. hey old f--- save your smack for sombody else. i hope you guys are luckier in your training these days. harve


----------



## Nick Harmon

boco said:


> . Thats a good idea. though the retard i just hired last week would need a 10 x 10 size. What a ****in hog he is with the mixer. I dont think he will last very long. Just doesnt get it. I had him doing a Mod the other day and he decided to put his mixing station directly in front of some pretty sweet kitchen cabinets. then he coated 15 sticks of bead in 8 hours and wanted to know if i thought he was doing a good job. My reply. Good thing its by the hour.


Huge pet peeve. I'm also a stickler of keeping the water bucket and mixing bucket close as to not drag water all over the place. One of the first things I got bitched at as an apprentice.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

boco said:


> . Thats a good idea. though the retard i just hired last week would need a 10 x 10 size. What a ****in hog he is with the mixer. I dont think he will last very long. Just doesnt get it. I had him doing a Mod the other day and he decided to put his mixing station directly in front of some pretty sweet kitchen cabinets. then he coated 15 sticks of bead in 8 hours and wanted to know if i thought he was doing a good job. My reply. Good thing its by the hour.


got to give some people a chance


----------



## nd636

I will try to give some tips. I was kind of thrown into hanging a while back so I had to figure out ways to do things easier alone, and constantly still ask questions when I meet a new guy who has been doing it for a while just to see if I can tweak something I am doing so any tips about my tips are appreciated.
1. If I have a closet that is something like 2'x6' with a narrow door I do the back first then the sides. I do the door wall last by scoring the back of the board and folding it enough to get it in then put it up. No butts in the closet and it looks clean if someone pokes their head in to see how it is going.
2. I do not always screw off the bottom of the board. Sometimes if you do and there is a problem in the wall (bad framing or bulging insulation) it will follow those and when the base is put in it will either have the curves or it will have to be caulked. Learned that from an old carpenter.
3. Instead of pulling screws and leaving a fuzzy hole to fill take a screwdriver and hammer it half way through. It will fill like a regular screw.

As far as the drywall lift I will use them if I have to like on a small addition but they are so slow. I used to fight with putting 12 footers up on ceilings alone without one but it is not worth it to me to do it anymore.


----------



## moore

nd636 said:


> 1. If I have a closet that is something like 2'x6' with a narrow door I do the back first then the sides. I do the door wall last by scoring the back of the board and folding it enough to get it in then put it up. .


Hang the back and front of the closet first ..Then the sides . If you throw a light across the white side of that scored board you will find a blister.


----------



## MrWillys

I'll go one step further, but Moore is right in sequence. Closets are for door and window cutouts. When putting up the big sheets go over windows & doors (back cutting windows first) first, and then saw them, or router if that's your bag, and set aside. This provides a superior job with reduced joints. Hang the back, and front of the closet, and side walls with door and window cutouts. Tapers don't need a perfect finish in a closet, so in the long run it's a win win.


----------



## moore

nd636 said:


> 2. I do not always screw off the bottom of the board. Sometimes if you do and there is a problem in the wall (bad framing or bulging insulation) it will follow those and when the base is put in it will either have the curves or it will have to be caulked. Learned that from an old carpenter.
> .


When The base Is placed /nailed It will also find that [bad framing bulging insulation ] BTW nails work much better on the bottom plates .


----------



## boco

ya dont be scoring the rock. Doesnt save you anything


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> I'll go one step further, but Moore is right in sequence. Closets are for door and window cutouts. When putting up the big sheets go over windows & doors (back cutting windows first) first, and then saw them, or router if that's your bag, and set aside. This provides a superior job with reduced joints. Hang the back, and front of the closet, and side walls with door and window cutouts. Tapers don't need a perfect finish in a closet, so in the long run it's a win win.


REALLY! If it's a small closet ...And a large window cut out will work as a header ..fine But most all window @ door cut outs Is Scrap !!! I want as many walls in my homes hung solid The less joints the better even in the closets!


----------



## MrWillys

moore said:


> REALLY! If it's a small closet ...And a large window cut out will work as a header ..fine But most all window @ door cut outs Is Scrap !!! I want as many walls in my homes hung solid The less joints the better even in the closets!


Yeah, we always 3 pieced closet sides, but our tracts all textured. We ran the edge of angles with a nail spotter. If we threw away these cutouts we'd be short board.


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> Yeah, we always 3 pieced closet sides, but our tracts all textured. We ran the edge of angles with a nail spotter. If we threw away these cutouts we'd be short board.


I would shoot a hanger for 3 piecing a closet side...But we do slick walls here Boo! :thumbsup:


----------



## nd636

MrWillys said:


> I'll go one step further, but Moore is right in sequence. Closets are for door and window cutouts. When putting up the big sheets go over windows & doors (back cutting windows first) first, and then saw them, or router if that's your bag, and set aside. This provides a superior job with reduced joints. Hang the back, and front of the closet, and side walls with door and window cutouts. Tapers don't need a perfect finish in a closet, so in the long run it's a win win.


This is why I do not worry about seeing a blister with a light I score it on a stud so it gets screwed and spotted. 
Thanks for the feedback though.
What do you mean back cutting the windows?


----------



## MrWillys

nd636 said:


> This is why I do not worry about seeing a blister with a light I score it on a stud so it gets screwed and spotted.
> Thanks for the feedback though.
> What do you mean back cutting the windows?


When you go over a door you can run your knife along the header on the brown side, but with a window you backcut this prior to hanging the sheet. Then you cut up each side with a sharp big saw, lift up cutout, and run big saw across facepaper at crease and pop inward. You could use a router, but too much dust, and it gets dicy towards the end without help.


----------



## nd636

moore said:


> When The base Is placed /nailed It will also find that [bad framing bulging insulation ] BTW nails work much better on the bottom plates .


I agree with you if a trim guy actually hit every stud and the bottom plate all the way but that almost never happens plus it would have to pull the drywall all the way in and make the trim follow it.


----------



## gazman

Hang the back of the cupboard first, stand up the sides. Cut the back of the stand ups and fold the angles. Then a strip over he head . = one flat, two internals, two small buts over the doors that only get two coated. Done.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

MrWillys said:


> When you go over a door you can run your knife along the header on the brown side, but with a window you backcut this prior to hanging the sheet. Then you cut up each side with a sharp big saw, lift up cutout, and run big saw across facepaper at crease and pop inward. You could use a router, but too much dust, and it gets dicy towards the end without help.


If I ever drywalled with you, your little crap saw would be out the door so quick!
Who the heck pre-cuts windows now a days!? I should upload a video of us drywalling a bedroom...
If the two of us are in a room more than 45 minutes, including the closet, Im pissed!
We're drywallers! Who worries about dust from a router?

Like a 14' x 16' room with a small closet. Or something roughly that size, If that takes more than 45 minutes to board, we're not moving fast enough.


----------



## nd636

gazman said:


> Hang the back of the cupboard first, stand up the sides. Cut the back of the stand ups and fold the angles. Then a strip over he head . = one flat, two internals, two small buts over the doors that only get two coated. Done.


I will have to try this out.


----------



## nd636

PrecisionTaping said:


> If I ever drywalled with you, your little crap saw would be out the door so quick!
> Who the heck pre-cuts windows now a days!? I should upload a video of us drywalling a bedroom...
> If the two of us are in a room more than 45 minutes, including the closet, Im pissed!
> We're drywallers! Who worries about dust from a router?
> 
> Like a 14' x 16' room with a small closet. Or something roughly that size, If that takes more than 45 minutes to board, we're not moving fast enough.[/
> 
> Like I said I'm mostly self taught so I would like to see the video. There are a bunch on finishing but none of a good crew hanging.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

nd636 said:


> Like I said I'm mostly self taught so I would like to see the video. There are a bunch on finishing but none of a good crew hanging.


Very true! Next boarding job we do i'll do some filming!


----------



## MrWillys

PrecisionTaping said:


> If I ever drywalled with you, your little crap saw would be out the door so quick!
> Who the heck pre-cuts windows now a days!? I should upload a video of us drywalling a bedroom...
> If the two of us are in a room more than 45 minutes, including the closet, Im pissed!
> We're drywallers! Who worries about dust from a router?
> 
> Like a 14' x 16' room with a small closet. Or something roughly that size, If that takes more than 45 minutes to board, we're not moving fast enough.


Clearly you are a legend in your mind. I don't need or have any desire to compete with you. We had houses with 88 12's that we'd hang in 5.25 hours including the firewall in the garage. You leave my big saw out of it, and i'll forget you hang drywall part time. If you think your router makes you fast with your screwgun you are free to live your own dreams.

Thank for the laugh though, and opinion has been duly noted. I was taught to let my axe do the talking.


----------



## nd636

My last tip for today is that if you want to stir people up and get people posting just talk about hanging a closet.


----------



## MrWillys

PrecisionTaping said:


> Very true! Next boarding job we do i'll do some filming!


I always enjoy a good comedy!


----------



## VANMAN

nd636 said:


> My last tip for today is that if you want to stir people up and get people posting just talk about hanging a closet.


Or spotting screws lol!:yes:


----------



## fr8train

PT, he's not saying he cuts out the window before hanging the sheet, he back cuts the sheet, above and below the window (depending on top or bottom sherry)before installing. Takes a second to do and it's much faster than routing it the entire window out. Rout the sides of the window, snap, and cut the face paper.
It's exactly how we do it.

On big router cuts, pull the router out, skip an inch, plunge and continue your cut. When done, drop the router, score that inch with a knife and remove the piece.


----------



## igorson

MrWillys said:


> Clearly you are a legend in your mind. I don't need or have any desire to compete with you. We had houses with 88 12's that we'd hang in 5.25 hours including the firewall in the garage. You leave my big saw out of it, and i'll forget you hang drywall part time. If you think your router makes you fast with your screwgun you are free to live your own dreams.
> 
> Thank for the laugh though, and opinion has been duly noted. I was taught to let my axe do the talking.


Just wish to see how did you finish hanging "5.5 hours" while "cutting with saw to avoid dust" :thumbup:


----------



## MrWillys

igorson said:


> Just wish to see how did you finish hanging "5.5 hours" while "cutting with saw to avoid dust" :thumbup:


I'm sure it may sound unbelievable, but the earth does not rotate around a router. I didn't have one until the late 80's. You can saw a door just as fast as a router if not faster. I'm sure if I said you can nail board faster than a screwgun you'd think I'm nuts too. They even framed houses without a Skilsaw believe it, or not?

Taping mud was mixed by hand, and ceiling wires were done by hand with a screw jig. New advancements do make things easier, but make you dependent. We used to hand cut boxes too.


----------



## super rocker

You are correct. The earth doesn't revolve around a router. Being a competent drywall hanger revolves around a router.:thumbup:


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> We used to hand cut boxes too.


And some of us still do!:whistling2:


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> When you go over a door you can run your knife along the header on the brown side, but with a window you backcut this prior to hanging the sheet. Then you cut up each side with a sharp big saw, lift up cutout, and run big saw across facepaper at crease and pop inward. .


That's how I was taught ..Kinda... We never used the saw as a blade tho.We used a blade.
If you really want to roll ..Don't hit the crease with nothing!! Just pop it!! LOL!!


----------



## chris

moore said:


> That's how I was taught ..Kinda... We never used the saw as a blade tho.We used a blade.
> If you really want to roll ..Don't hit the crease with nothing!! Just pop it!! LOL!!


 If it is screwed off it will pop off clean:yes: .


----------



## Alex Qualizza

There are many facets to our trade, drywall finishing that is. Size and type of trowels. Hand finishing, machine finishing, straight edges and even machines that spray compound. The tips and tricks are endless. Personally I feel confident in giving advice on the type of trowel one uses. This is a tricky topic and from my experience raises much debate. There are those that use 24 inch trowels by 5 inches. Others 14 by 5. Still others swear if your using anything more than an 11 by 41/2 your wasting your time. Then theres the debate over stainless steal or carbon steal. 

So I say.... it's very personal and you can't tell someone what he should be doing. However there are some things I can't give on. 

1. a trowel can't be so stiff and rigid that it becomes a barrier between you and the material.
2. to the first point... trowels that are broken in are more valuable than new ones.
3. once broken in ( carbon steal ) they are a much easier to work with and should be taken care of without question.
4. stainless steal take longer to break in and last longer in their sweet spot. I prefer carbon blades. comparable to a new leather jacket that seems rigid at first but in time fits like a glove to its owner. 
5. not one trowel does it all. I generally use one to first coat, and one to second coat. then I have one that is super flexible and I use to skim or level ( plaster ) with. And move them along as they break in. 

I began with the 11 by 4 1/2 but have recently moved to 12 by 4 and although still been 2 months on a new sized trowel I think I found a winner.


----------



## Nick Harmon

Mixed all our buckets down in Sierra Vista AZ by hand no joke. Stomper hell. Mixed hundreds of buckets that way. .08 a square foot to finish no less. This was about 14 years ago. Maybe they're using drills now. It may be slower, but at least it's harder. That's my motto. I'm joking btw.


----------



## Mountain Man

Lol all the Arizona guys up here were still using stompers when they arrived in colorado!! Slowly they have switched to drills. When they handed me a stomper I would look at them funny and say "I didn't know we were mashing potatoes!"


----------



## chris

One of my teachers of drywall was from AZ. He uses his stomper to fill his pan


----------



## MrWillys

chris said:


> One of my teachers of drywall was from AZ. He uses his stomper to fill his pan


I still have an old mixer a taper threw away 35 years ago. I took it home and welded it up and used it for many years. It wouldn't hurt for this younger generation to learn these old methods. I mean what would you do if power went out? Go home?

You can't nail, because you're dependent on a screwgun. Do you go home when power goes out? Don't know how to cut a box by hand, because you're dependent on a router. Do you go home when power goes out?
I'd buy D batteries for my radio and listen to FM until the batteries got low, then switch to am for another 4 days. We didn't go home because we had no power.


----------



## super rocker

Your power seems to go out a lot.


----------



## PrecisionTaping

super rocker said:


> Your power seems to go out a lot.


Haha! Pure jokes.
That guy cracks me up.
Yup! I'm not at all dependant on modern technology!
When the power goes out I just keep hanging sheets with my screwdriver!


----------



## MrWillys

super rocker said:


> Your power seems to go out a lot.


We did work for a major residential builder and we didn't have power. Only the framers had generators for skill saws. I realize you think it's a joke, and that's fine, but nothing wrong with understanding how it was once done prior to power tools.

During the manufactured black outs in California in 2000 I did have to go home. We were welding clips to a pedestrian bridge, and were down for over an hour and were told to pack it in. Thanks to the likes of Enron I lost money too!


----------



## super rocker

I have been hanging drywall for 43 years, so you won't tell me much about the 'good old days'.


----------



## D A Drywall

Reminds me of my dad reminiscing about walking to and from school....up hill both ways


----------



## MrWillys

super rocker said:


> I have been hanging drywall for 43 years, so you won't tell me much about the 'good old days'.


Congratulations, that is a long time to be on the rock pile.


----------



## super rocker

Thank you, but I think condolences are more appropriate.


----------



## MrWillys

super rocker said:


> Thank you, but I think condolences are more appropriate.


I didn't think drywall was the first thing to go?


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> We did work for a major residential builder and we didn't have power. Only the framers had generators for skill saws. I realize you think it's a joke, and that's fine, but nothing wrong with understanding how it was once done prior to power tools.


I mixed more buckets with a potato masher In the mid 80s Than I care too remember. After I bought that first drill and paddle I handed that masher to my Dad and said.. here ! You can have It! 

I still have that first paddle .. With all it's teeth . 


When I first started My Dad was using A masons brush cut at an angle to apply mud for the angle tape. This was a man who started off using a zooka in the early 60s [go figure!]


----------



## MrWillys

moore said:


> I mixed more buckets with a potato masher In the mid 80s Than I care too remember. After I bought that first drill and paddle I handed that masher to my Dad and said.. here ! You can have It!
> 
> I still have that first paddle .. With all it's teeth .
> 
> 
> When I first started My Dad was using A masons brush cut at an angle to apply mud for the angle tape. This was a man who started off using a zooka in the early 60s [go figure!]


I got to hang 12 condo's in a very elite retirement area called Rossmoor in 2008. I used a router for most things, but still sawed doors and windows. I really had fun doing this with nails in one pouch and screws in the other.
I'll even admit to using a paddle for mud in the limited taping I do. I'm not a taper, but can get it done, and give a real finisher a good laugh.


----------



## boco

I mean what would you do if power went out? Run lead cord and plug it into the truck inverter. Start engine. One of my college guys had one for his PS3. I bought one the next day.


----------



## nd636

moore said:


> I mixed more buckets with a potato masher In the mid 80s Than I care too remember. After I bought that first drill and paddle I handed that masher to my Dad and said.. here ! You can have It!
> 
> I still have that first paddle .. With all it's teeth .
> 
> 
> When I first started My Dad was using A masons brush cut at an angle to apply mud for the angle tape. This was a man who started off using a zooka in the early 60s [go figure!]


I had one of those paddles. God forbid it hit the side of the bucket. Mine would shave the plastic off into the mud.


----------



## nodnarb

PrecisionTaping said:


> If I ever drywalled with you, your little crap saw would be out the door so quick!
> Who the heck pre-cuts windows now a days!? I should upload a video of us drywalling a bedroom...
> If the two of us are in a room more than 45 minutes, including the closet, Im pissed!
> We're drywallers! Who worries about dust from a router?
> 
> Like a 14' x 16' room with a small closet. Or something roughly that size, If that takes more than 45 minutes to board, we're not moving fast enough.


Letting the rock run wild and backcutting is faster than your router any day. Running a knife down a window twice is faster no matter how you look at it. Even if you have to make a pass with a rasp. Only time it may be applicable is of joint breaks over cut out. Even then a handy keyhole could smoke a router if the user wants it bad enough. A keyhole on a strait shot is faster than a router if the user wants it to be. I use a router on boxes and on some topout occasionally, its a great tool that speeds up SOME tasks. The only time I really see it flat out being more efficient is with boxes and some other odd penetrations. With boxes its simply more efficient, not because the router cuts faster but because my partner gives me 1/2 the numbers and can play loose as long as he gets me in the box. No scribing either. He also doesnt have to wait for me to cut either, we just slam the rock up, tack it up and i cut it out and get on to the next sheet.

Ive got some great tips for those who hang FRP. 

Throw your trowel away. 

Use a piece of scrap of FRP (i prefer around 8"x16" or so) with a factory edge and cut notches in the factory edge with tinsnips. Bigger notches for thicker beads if glue for wood and rough surfaces and vice versa. Much quicker and way more versatile than a trowel could ever be. Since the FRP flexes you can lay it on thicker or thinner with pressure. Kinda like using a knife. 

But wait? No trowell! How will i get the glue on the sheet?

Scrap stud or track . I usually wrap a piece of duct tape around the sharp edge of "handle" . With a full bucket two or three scoops from a 3 5/8" piece of track is enough for a 10' sheet. 
Cleanup is easy too, junk it and make another when needed for both trowel and scoop.


----------



## gazman

nd636 said:


> I will have to try this out.


How did you get on nd636? Did you give it a try?


----------



## gazman

nodnarb said:


> Letting the rock run wild and backcutting is faster than your router any day. Running a knife down a window twice is faster no matter how you look at it. Even if you have to make a pass with a rasp. Only time it may be applicable is of joint breaks over cut out. Even then a handy keyhole could smoke a router if the user wants it bad enough. A keyhole on a strait shot is faster than a router if the user wants it to be. I use a router on boxes and on some topout occasionally, its a great tool that speeds up SOME tasks. The only time I really see it flat out being more efficient is with boxes and some other odd penetrations. With boxes its simply more efficient, not because the router cuts faster but because my partner gives me 1/2 the numbers and can play loose as long as he gets me in the box. No scribing either. He also doesnt have to wait for me to cut either, we just slam the rock up, tack it up and i cut it out and get on to the next sheet.
> 
> Ive got some great tips for those who hang FRP.
> 
> Throw your trowel away.
> 
> Use a piece of scrap of FRP (i prefer around 8"x16" or so) with a factory edge and cut notches in the factory edge with tinsnips. Bigger notches for thicker beads if glue for wood and rough surfaces and vice versa. Much quicker and way more versatile than a trowel could ever be. Since the FRP flexes you can lay it on thicker or thinner with pressure. Kinda like using a knife.
> 
> But wait? No trowell! How will i get the glue on the sheet?
> 
> Scrap stud or track . I usually wrap a piece of duct tape around the sharp edge of "handle" . With a full bucket two or three scoops from a 3 5/8" piece of track is enough for a 10' sheet.
> Cleanup is easy too, junk it and make another when needed for both trowel and scoop.


Because we are dumb dry wallers and are very visual. How about some pics, or a video would be even better.


----------



## nodnarb

gazman said:


> Because we are dumb dry wallers and are very visual. How about some pics, or a video would be even better.


Of what in particular, im doing tenant finish out currently and wont be doing FRP for a while. Some may pop up as I do it for a few guys, but right now I simply dont have any going. All the framing and what not is done on this lease. Got rock for weeks


----------



## keke

gazman said:


> Because we are dumb dry wallers and are very visual.


I got you, 
now I understand why I don't understand anything from what he says


----------



## moore

keke said:


> I got you,
> now I understand why I don't understand anything from what he says


It's pretty bad when I can understand an Aussie over a Texan!!!:confused1:


----------



## gazman

nodnarb said:


> Of what in particular, im doing tenant finish out currently and wont be doing FRP for a while. Some may pop up as I do it for a few guys, but right now I simply dont have any going. All the framing and what not is done on this lease. Got rock for weeks


The hook knife in action. The use of frp insted of a trowel. Yea all of it. A bit at a time will do as the work comes along.


----------



## nodnarb

gazman said:


> The hook knife in action. The use of frp insted of a trowel. Yea all of it. A bit at a time will do as the work comes along.

























Thats one pass with a hookbill. Makes a great bevel for top out and odd angles. A lot less bs then whittling with your knife. It easy 1/2" alive but I seldom mess with anything other than 5/8"

Sorry about picture size, uploading off of phone


Heres a little tip I got off a mexican plumber. For you real cheapa$$es.

Use scraps of the flexible blue or red pipe as a pencil holder for when they get short.


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

Discover something, create something, and do something that gets people talking about something other than "how low can you go".


----------



## moore

Ya know what a pain It is to get that first Vienna sausage out of the can?? Take a drywall screw and stick it in the one in the middle and pull It out... After that.. the rest are easy peasy ! :thumbsup:


----------



## Corey The Taper

If you need a lighter but dont have any get your drywall screw gun and screw the concrete till the screw turns red then light your cigg


----------



## moore

Corey The Taper said:


> If you need a lighter but dont have any get your drywall screw gun and screw the concrete till the screw turns red then light your cigg


A halogen light works as well ....It's a long wait tho!:yes:


----------



## Corey The Taper

Or the good ol sun and magnifying glasses or reading glasses if your eyes r bad enough


----------



## mld

Used a screw and wonderbar to open a bottle of wine last week :thumbsup:


----------



## 800PoundGuerrilla

P.A. ROCKER said:


> *Link to* DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS
> 
> Please take the time to click on the lick above and gain access to an opportunity to be introduced to the latest in DRY-WALL SOLUTIONS innovation. By *clicking on the "arrow around the circle" icon*in the *lower right hand corner of the webpage*, you will experience the simplicity of genius that facilitates the realization of cost effective complex drywall profiles . By *clicking on the "film strip" icon to the right of the "arrow around the circle" icon*, you will experience the Magaform 3000 in operation ... quite the experience. Let me know what you think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Woulden't mind taking it for a ride. Cutting edge for sure. I'd be afraid trac home builders would want more details for the same money and eventually it would become common place. As far as customs go they usually pay for extras. Whats the price tag on that unit? Thanks for sharing.


[/QUOTE]

You still interested in "taking this for a ride"?


----------



## moore

nodnarb said:


> Heres a little tip I got off a mexican plumber. For you real cheapa$$es.
> 
> Use scraps of the flexible blue or red pipe as a pencil holder for when they get short.


That Mexican was a genius !!!! I love It!!!


----------



## nodnarb

moore said:


> That Mexican was a genius !!!! I love It!!!


You will notice you have to sharpen them less as well. The center of gravity makes the piece of pipe hit the ground before the actual pencil does. I love it.


----------



## MrWillys

nodnarb said:


> You will notice you have to sharpen them less as well. The center of gravity makes the piece of pipe hit the ground before the actual pencil does. I love it.


 Years ago I worked with a guy that would use string, and an electrical box knock out for his pencil when it got short. This same guy had an ivy plant growing out of his ashtray in a VW bug too!

Cool trick, but I bought pencils by the box.


----------



## nodnarb

MrWillys said:


> Years ago I worked with a guy that would use string, and an electrical box knock out for his pencil when it got short. This same guy had an ivy plant growing out of his ashtray in a VW bug too!
> 
> Cool trick, but I bought pencils by the box.


I get boxes for free from my supply house, that doesnt justify throwing them away when they get 3-4 inches long. Ive found I prefer a short one in the holder than a brand new or near new one without. And as I mentioned to moore, your pencil breaks far less often when dropped.

Im a beleiver in waste not want not.


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

> You still interested in "taking this for a ride"?



Thanks for the offer but I don't have any drywall projects coming up.


----------



## gordie

nodnarb said:


> I get boxes for free from my supply house, that doesnt justify throwing them away when they get 3-4 inches long. Ive found I prefer a short one in the holder than a brand new or near new one without. And as I mentioned to moore, your pencil breaks far less often when dropped.
> 
> Im a beleiver in waste not want not.


plus the lip that the pipe makes is great for not letting your pencil slip through that favorite notch or loop you keep it in. I find that happens you find the perfect slot for it then a month later it loosens up and your pencil slips through especially when it gets short, add pipe problem solved I like that trick good one nodnarb .my first boss taught me that one he was very cheep we were allways using nubs no longer than 4"s.lol been spoiled with boxes of new one's think on Monday i'll make a new pencil cap tks mang for shaking my memory


----------



## nodnarb

gordie said:


> plus the lip that the pipe makes is great for not letting your pencil slip through that favorite notch or loop you keep it in. I find that happens you find the perfect slot for it then a month later it loosens up and your pencil slips through especially when it gets short, add pipe problem solved I like that trick good one nodnarb .my first boss taught me that one he was very cheep we were allways using nubs no longer than 4"s.lol been spoiled with boxes of new one's think on Monday i'll make a new pencil cap tks mang for shaking my memory


Np. I poked a hole in my pencil pouch (who doesnt?) pretty early on and this trick remedies that.


----------



## nodnarb

gazman said:


> Because we are dumb dry wallers and are very visual. How about some pics, or a video would be even better.


No scoop made of stud or track because this was a stick framed job. But heres what I use for a trowell on FRP. You hold it with two hands, it takes a little getting the hang of but its much faster. Also disposable.

Pic linked due to size:
http://puu.sh/aDnGZ/02cea342e8.jpg


----------



## moore

nodnarb said:


> No scoop made of stud or track because this was a stick framed job. But heres what I use for a trowell on FRP. You hold it with two hands, it takes a little getting the hang of but its much faster. Also disposable.
> 
> Pic linked due to size:
> http://puu.sh/aDnGZ/02cea342e8.jpg


Your links send me here nodnarb http://puu.sh/aDnGZ/02cea342e8.jpg


----------



## nodnarb

moore said:


> Your links send me here nodnarb http://puu.sh/aDnGZ/02cea342e8.jpg


Hmm, damn puush app. 

That link works for me but probably since its mine. Lets see if this works, but since I cannot crop it it may be huge.


----------



## nodnarb

Some tricks ive taken forgranted and forgot to mention.

Use a tab off the rock and a screw as a circle cutter for larger penetrations, or if you left, lost, broke ect your circle cutter. Just cut a slot for knife or pencil and go to town.

6, 8, 10. My old man taught me to make a square point off anything (or nothing) using the "6 8 10" method, mark 6 ft on your existing wall (or point on ground) you want to square off of, pull 8 ft from one end of it and arc your mark a bit. Have your helper hold your tape on the other end if your 6 ft mark and find where 10ft intersects with your 8ft mark. You now have a large RIGHT triangle on the ground with a perfectly square angle. This works with any increments of 3, 4 and 5. A book smart helper told me I was doing math. I told him im just a dumbwaller and he oughta watch his mouth! https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem

A squared + B squared = C squared


----------



## MrWillys

nodnarb said:


> Some tricks ive taken forgranted and forgot to mention.
> 
> Use a tab off the rock and a screw as a circle cutter for larger penetrations, or if you left, lost, broke ect your circle cutter. Just cut a slot for knife or pencil and go to town.
> 
> 6, 8, 10. My old man taught me to make a square point off anything (or nothing) using the "6 8 10" method, mark 6 ft on your existing wall (or point on ground) you want to square off of, pull 8 ft from one end of it and arc your mark a bit. Have your helper hold your tape on the other end if your 6 ft mark and find where 10ft intersects with your 8ft mark. You now have a large RIGHT triangle on the ground with a perfectly square angle. This works with any increments of 3, 4 and 5. A book smart helper told me I was doing math. I told him im just a dumbwaller and he oughta watch his mouth! https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem
> 
> A squared + B squared = C squared


 This is great stuff here! When I used snap out highrise's I would pull off two main columns for my main longitudinal (length) line, and check it with the exterior skin. Then I would use any arbitrary point and swing 30' 40' 50' or any equal variable in 2 directions. When I pulled a string from these 2 points and it aligned with my starting point I knew I was square. I'd layout all walls and even my t-bar if it was mine. I'm glad to see this getting passed on to you.

Here's an equation I created for my students, and I used to hammer this home.
http://www.scotthansen.net/equation.html


----------



## moore

nodnarb said:


> A book smart helper told me I was doing math. I told him im just a dumbwaller and he oughta watch his mouth!


LMAO!!!:thumbsup:


----------



## gordie

MrWillys said:


> This is great stuff here! When I used snap out highrise's I would pull off two main columns for my main longitudinal (length) line, and check it with the exterior skin. Then I would use any arbitrary point and swing 30' 40' 50' or any equal variable in 2 directions. When I pulled a string from these 2 points and it aligned with my starting point I knew I was square. I'd layout all walls and even my t-bar if it was mine. I'm glad to see this getting passed on to you.
> 
> Here's an equation I created for my students, and I used to hammer this home.
> http://www.scotthansen.net/equation.html




Damn it Willy, and you started it Nobarb now I have to learn math again. I knew mine was going to crap now its confirmed. Piss me off I'll have to show this crap to my know it all brother have him break it down for me so I can answer your crap teacher man equation .:furious:
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge dudes cant learn this stuff wile lifting 5/8`s over my head to pay that rent the only math the wife worries about:blink:.


----------



## nodnarb

Oldie but a goodie. Disturbed my helper throughly, sheetrock dust to stop up cuts. That synthetic crap doesnt work very well. Good old gypsum will stop even a good sized cut quick


----------



## moore

nodnarb said:


> Oldie but a goodie. Disturbed my helper throughly, sheetrock dust to stop up cuts. That synthetic crap doesnt work very well. Good old gypsum will stop even a good sized cut quick


A glob of A/P works as well!


----------



## gazman

Cornice cement and duct tape


----------



## thefinisher

moore said:


> A glob of A/P works as well!


Gotta throw some 5 minute in it! mix it in and let it set up. instant scab :jester:


----------



## nodnarb

thefinisher said:


> Gotta throw some 5 minute in it! mix it in and let it set up. instant scab :jester:


Add some mudmax and we are rockin and rolling.


----------



## VANMAN

nodnarb said:


> Oldie but a goodie. Disturbed my helper throughly, sheetrock dust to stop up cuts. That synthetic crap doesnt work very well. Good old gypsum will stop even a good sized cut quick


Would b funny to see a docs face after a blood test!:yes:
They would b like,You have an unusual substance in ur blood that has never been seen before LOL:thumbsup:


----------



## thefinisher

nodnarb said:


> Add some mudmax and we are rockin and rolling.


Would have a scab for life!


----------



## mld

Bump for all the new guys here lately. Lots of good tips here.


----------



## sheep

I'm not as experienced as you lot, but a few things you guys might not have tried (but probably have no use for)

Cutting cornice on the ground sucks, so we use 3 work platforms and a 2 plans. Works great when you have 2 boxes. Just make sure when you stack the cornice up ready for cutting, you put them on their backs, the weight will dent the stick against the ridged aluminum. 3 plastic fold out camping tables in a row work alright too. When you're done cutting you can use the benches to butter (apply the cornice adhesive to sticks). In the pic we had just about finished cutting and i had loaded a few sticks up there to butter. We butter with a trowel.

http://imgur.com/ebB1kO1

This one i came up with. bucket with weight in it, with the lid on, with a hole in the lid so the hawk handle fits snug. Reason being, when you take mud from the hawk with the trowel, you have to hold the trowel otherwise because of the drag, this way, your other hand is free. 

http://imgur.com/7W2Sqes

Only other tip I can think of atm is that olive oils is a damn cheap hand moisturiser. GOt that tip from a renderer, who got it from his old Italian boss.


----------



## Kiwiman

Good stuff sheep. 
Hey now that we have more Aussies on board maybe we can have a bit more cornice talk :thumbsup:


----------



## Aussiecontractor

Hey guys have you tried a cornice adhesive applicator ? I used one for the 1st time the other week 
Bloody brilliant.....puts a beads of cornice cement on the ceiling and wall then you just run around sticking the cornice up behind whoever is pumping it on 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## sheep

I don't have one. But one of the guys does. He doesn't use it because he can't work out the consistency. Reckons to get it to pump it has to be too thin and makes a mess.


----------



## Sweendog87

sheep said:


> I don't have one. But one of the guys does. He doesn't use it because he can't work out the consistency. Reckons to get it to pump it has to be too thin and makes a mess.


 
http://youtu.be/EgDvPuUHBw8

Show him this video and tell him to give it another go or u have. Go it's so worth it get it right and there will be no mess and no wastage of mud and makes your job nearly twice as quick one guy on the ground mudding with tube and passing cornice one on stilts throwing and sorting mitres then wiping 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Kiwiman

I've got one but it just didn't suit my "one man" style.
Don't leave it too long before you stick the cornice up because the board sucks the moisture out of the glue and doesn't adhere as well to the cornice.
There is a similar applicator you can get that applies glue directly to the cornice but not sure who would have them.


----------



## Aussiecontractor

Kiwiman said:


> I've got one but it just didn't suit my "one man" style.
> 
> Don't leave it too long before you stick the cornice up because the board sucks the moisture out of the glue and doesn't adhere as well to the cornice.
> 
> There is a similar applicator you can get that applies glue directly to the cornice but not sure who would have them.



That one that does it directly is in my intex book, I'll check it out. 
Yer I used once when I was busy and then chucked in the corner..
But had some time the other day and gave it a good crack, I did a few rooms on my own but next time I'll teach apprentice how to pump it on. then run around on stilts behind him.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## MrWillys

Aussiecontractor said:


> That one that does it directly is in my intex book, I'll check it out.
> Yer I used once when I was busy and then chucked in the corner..
> But had some time the other day and gave it a good crack, I did a few rooms on my own but next time I'll teach apprentice how to pump it on. then run around on stilts behind him.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Do your apprentice's attend class? Or is it just on the job training?


----------



## gazman

Over here apprentices go to class for the first three year, usually one week per month. The 4th and final year is on the job only.


----------



## MrWillys

Ours go 4 weeks per year for 4 years if they're union. We have no accredited non union programs, although they try.


----------



## gazman

Here is a summary of what is required. 
https://training.gov.au/Training/Details/CPC31211#


----------



## Aussiecontractor

That's right gaz, it's a pain when they go to tafe...because I forget and normally I'll be busy as and need them.
Do you have an apprentice mate? Mines just been signed on for a month and they get a 20k interest free loan now to buy tools ect ect and only have to pay back if they earn a certain amount a year 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## gazman

No apprentices at the moment. Sick of the attitude that they come with. Just the two of us these days, my off sider is one of my former apprentices. He did twelve months with me after he finished his time, then left to work for others for a few years. A year or so ago he sent me a text "I just quit my job, when can I start?" Been with me ever since. It is amazing, during his apprenticeship I was a real mongrel, now I am a great bloke. Don't know what changed. :whistling2:


----------



## MrWillys

I've always said to hire an Apprentice while they still know everything. The older I get the less I want to know.


----------



## Aussiecontractor

gazman said:


> No apprentices at the moment. Sick of the attitude that they come with. Just the two of us these days, my off sider is one of my former apprentices. He did twelve months with me after he finished his time, then left to work for others for a few years. A year or so ago he sent me a text "I just quit my job, when can I start?" Been with me ever since. It is amazing, during his apprenticeship I was a real mongrel, now I am a great bloke. Don't know what changed. :whistling2:




Good work...probably was a mongrel cause he would of been costing money at start lol .
I've had a bad experience with one and left a bad taste. Then after months of employing "tradesman" who can't do jobs to my standard and making me look bad by being unreliable..I decided to give apprentice another shot.
The young by I've got now is real eager to learn and is genuinely interested in becoming a very good tradesman ...so I'm stoked and I'm more eager to show him hints and tricks because I know it's not going to go on deaf ears.
Also i think because he learns from me when he finishes his time and starts doing jobs for me it will be done to a standard I'm happy with...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## gazman

Now to talk him into buying a new ute. Nothing like debt to keep them keen to work.


----------



## Aussiecontractor

gazman said:


> Now to talk him into buying a new ute. Nothing like debt to keep them keen to work.



Even better he has 18 month old baby 
He can teach me about baby stuff I'll teach him gyprocking 


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----------



## sheep

Aussiecontractor said:


> The young by I've got now is real eager to learn and is genuinely interested in becoming a very good tradesman ..


That's the key. Many of the apprentices I went to trade school with were there for the paycheck at the end of the week. You have to be in it for the long haul. Better off packing groceries and working out what you ACTUALLY want to do, then do that, than to waste everyones time. Bosses apprentice is like that, I'd be amazed if he continues the trade after his apprenticeship and doesn't just move on to a 9-5. Hes a mate, but I would have sacked him by now, lol.


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> No apprentices at the moment. Sick of the attitude that they come with. Just the two of us these days, my off sider is one of my former apprentices. He did twelve months with me after he finished his time, then left to work for others for a few years. A year or so ago he sent me a text "I just quit my job, when can I start?" Been with me ever since. It is amazing, during his apprenticeship I was a real mongrel, now I am a great bloke. Don't know what changed. :whistling2:


During his apprenticeship you were teaching him. Now your not.

That's what changed!


----------



## moore

Aussiecontractor said:


> they get a 20k interest free loan now to buy tools ect ect and only have to pay back if they earn a certain amount a year
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


That's not a bad deal at all !:yes:


----------



## Aussiecontractor

It's a sweet deal he gets it in instalments tho over 4 years no lump some 


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## igorson

Can anyone tell me what does it mean: ?
Originally Posted by *Aussiecontractor*  
they get a 20k interest free loan now to buy [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]tools[/COLOR][/COLOR] ect ect and only have to pay back if they earn a certain amount a year


----------



## embella plaster

Ok it from government....you can chose how ever much you want eg 10 grand or 15 or 20 what ever you want to repay then get it in monthlt installments eg my apprentice gets 600$ a month for the first 3 or so years he then must pay it back in installments once he is on a certain wage in his 4th year i think the repayments start then he is left owing the debt amount with no interest and if you actually finish your trade you get a discount eg you borrow 20 you only need to repay 16 its a great deal


----------



## VANMAN

My apprentice has been with me 11 years in August
Still telling him how to do things but he is a good guy and very reliable!! B lost without him I think.:yes:


----------



## embella plaster

VANMAN said:


> My apprentice has been with me 11 years in August
> Still telling him how to do things but he is a good guy and very reliable!! B lost without him I think.:yes:


Then you have groomed him well 11 years and still hasnt reported you to the police for the sexual abuse rock on van


----------



## VANMAN

embella plaster said:


> Then you have groomed him well 11 years and still hasnt reported you to the police for the sexual abuse rock on van


Its my other half that gets the sexual abuse!!


----------



## MrWillys

VANMAN said:


> My apprentice has been with me 11 years in August
> Still telling him how to do things but he is a good guy and very reliable!! B lost without him I think.:yes:


I think after 11 years we can call him a journeyman?


----------



## Wimpy65

MrWillys said:


> I think after 11 years we can call him a journeyman?


I don't know Mr Willys, I'm 32 years into this trade and seems like I'm always learning something new. I may well be in the longest apprenticeship ever! 
Perhaps I should go to Virginia and apprentice under Moore for a while. Of course, with all his posts, I'm not sure how much he actually works!


----------



## moore

In


Wimpy65 said:


> I don't know Mr Willys, I'm 32 years into this trade and seems like I'm always learning something new. I may well be in the longest apprenticeship ever!
> Perhaps I should go to Virginia and apprentice under Moore for a while. Of course, with all his posts, I'm not sure how much he actually works!


I can start helping you on my houses ASAP. After some slow time I took on more than I can chew....now the panic attacks have set in.. I need you ! Or anyone with a pulse! The hangers started a 338 boarder today .that same builder said it's a small home compared to the one he's framing now and I've got 4 ranchers ready next week ...and the phone is still ringing ...it's crazy..I sat on my ads in may and now this. I told them all I'll start as soon as your ready!!! :whistling2: I 've never subbed out finishing before ..asides my dad. But I've been on the horn all day looking for drywall subs.....all I need is one good finisher!!!! Just one!!:yes:


----------



## fr8train

What part of Virginia you in Moore? ;P


----------



## moore

fr8train said:


> What part of Virginia you in Moore? ;P


Most of my work at the moment is where the Nations reunited .. I Live In Dillwyn Va.


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

moore said:


> most of my work at the moment is where the nations reunited .. I live in dillwyn va.


----------



## moore

Mr.Brightstar said:


> View attachment 20121


DUDE ! At the moment ! Dat ain't cool!! Do you watch the news??


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

I heard something about wanting to ban the rebel flag. My grandma always had one, she was from Kentucky. 

Now I have to look up the details on this issue.


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

That's just ridiculous you're all pussies. 

Don't want to offend the gays. 

When stuff like this hits the news it makes me wonder what's really going on behind the scenes in government, this is just a distraction.


----------



## moore

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I heard something about wanting to ban the rebel flag. My grandma always had one, she was from Kentucky.
> 
> Now I have to look up the details on this issue.


Church shooting SC. Sick young punk!! It's a sad deal .


----------



## thefinisher

Very sad indeed Moore. Right in my backyard too. I actually had a conversation with the son of one of the ladies killed. Good kid he is. He is playing ball where I did and he went to same high school. I'm sure he has it tough right now.


----------



## moore

They should hang that kid up by his balls for a week. Then take him to the courts ! That kind of hate is taught . His parents Or whoever taught him this hate should be held accountable also IMO!


----------



## fr8train

moore said:


> Most of my work at the moment is where the Nations reunited .. I Live In Dillwyn Va.


I just spent a week in Winston-Salem, NC via I-81 to Roanoke and 220. My sister has a time share near Gordonsville, I believe.


----------



## moore

fr8train said:


> I just spent a week in Winston-Salem, NC via I-81 to Roanoke and 220. My sister has a time share near Gordonsville, I believe.


I'm a 3 hour drive to Roanoke. I live in Dillwyn. If you goggle it don't blink!! Or you'll miss it.


----------



## fr8train

moore said:


> I'm a 3 hour drive to Roanoke. I live in Dillwyn. If you goggle it don't blink!! Or you'll miss it.


But, you're only an hour from Gordansville.


----------



## MrWillys

moore said:


> I'm a 3 hour drive to Roanoke. I live in Dillwyn. If you goggle it don't blink!! Or you'll miss it.


Goodnight John Boy Walton, you going to Charlottesville in the morning?


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> Goodnight John Boy Walton, you going to Charlottesville in the morning?


I can be on Avon street in 35 minutes. :yes: 

The further north you go in Va. The better the pay. 

Why I tend to stick it out here ? Don't ask!!!:blink:

BTW...The ''dew drop in'' is still there on main street Scottsville.


----------



## Ebbo

I used to live in Danville, VA. In a ways I miss it there but like it here in Florida much better.


----------



## moore

Ebbo said:


> I used to live in Danville, VA. In a ways I miss it there but like it here in Florida much better.


I was born In Jacksonville ... I spent much time down there as a kid.


----------



## keke

Mr.Brightstar said:


> I heard something about wanting to ban the rebel flag


agree and here's the opportunity :thumbup:


----------



## moore

capt-sheetrock said:


> i don't call it art,,, already stated that i think its mearly a skilled trade.
> 
> I find "drywall as usual" the thing that makes my living. And yes, i am content to keep on doing that very thing.
> 
> I do not take myself very seriously (heck no-one else does). Man, its just drywall!!!!!!
> 
> If it's flat and it looks good,,,, your done!!!!!
> 
> Trust me,,, you don't need a laser to get ya there!!:whistling2:


:d:d:d:d:d


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

Distiller Moore maybe the money is better up there cause no one is Tape n just cooking shine


----------



## moore

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Distiller Moore maybe the money is better up there cause no one is Tape n just cooking shine


Up where? I'm down here.


----------



## Bazooka-Joe

moore said:


> I can be on Avon street in 35 minutes. :yes:
> 
> The further north you go in Va. The better the pay.
> 
> Why I tend to stick it out here ? Don't ask!!!:blink:
> 
> BTW...The ''dew drop in'' is still there on main street Scottsville.


----------



## pips

I'm sure some of you have seen some sort of variation of this......

I present to you the bucket-bench..









its lighter than a regular bench..cheaper...and easier to move just nail it with your hatchet end and drag it along!


----------



## embella plaster

https://youtu.be/KuGjZ6HkMas


----------



## Kiwiman

Same way I do it Embella, except I sit the cornice on a couple of step ladders so there's no bending, you'll understand the benefit of that as you get older :yes:
I made a bracket that sits on the middle step of the ladder so I can sit my glue tray on it, that way you only need one hand to butter and again no bending down, the glue try is a hawk without a handle and rubber feet in each corner so if you put it down on the floor it's easy to pick up again, and the feet stop the tray from sliding around on the bracket.


----------



## embella plaster

Trust me i already know 2 discs with a crushed nerve i am feeling it tonight mate ill try on the ladders cheers


----------



## gazman

I see that you are picking up the hawk, try doing this


----------



## gazman

Had other pics but they won't upload. Just make a hole in the lid of a bucket and put the hawk handle through it.


----------



## embella plaster

gazman said:


> I see that you are picking up the hawk, try doing this


Wow man i am impressed simple but usefull


----------



## Aussiecontractor

I do the same but with off cut of gyprock on the bucket load it with a few scoops of mud.....no one really uses Hawks here also instead of the buckets to lay cornice on I use a trestle 


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## Kiwiman

Here you go Embella, no bending with this system, makes it a bit quicker as well.


----------



## cazna

I cant bring myself to hand butter again after doing like this, I love it, Cut the cove up, make a dry stack, Mud tube it up there and fit dry cove off the stilts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKqrorPJq0o


----------



## P.E.I.Taper

cazna said:


> I cant bring myself to hand butter again after doing like this, I love it, Cut the cove up, make a dry stack, Mud tube it up there and fit dry cove off the stilts.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKqrorPJq0o


Compound tube wins again


----------



## Aussiecontractor

I've got one f these they are the Ducks nuts 


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## Kiwiman

I've got a cove head for the tube but it's too good.....I can't keep up with it, you need two guy's IMO.


----------



## Aussiecontractor

Kiwiman said:


> I've got a cove head for the tube but it's too good.....I can't keep up with it, you need two guy's IMO.



Yer that's true.. Wouldn't use it alone to much cleaning and prep 
2-3 guys it's fast production 


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----------



## cazna

I go ok with it. Kiwi man fair gets the cove up for sure. I struggle with the reach when it's mudded it breaks easier but I do have a helper I call on sometimes so if it's a lot of cove I get him to help.


----------



## embella plaster

I gonna have to buy one and this is all possible thanks to cazna your a legend with out that ball would have had to buy whole new tube:thumbup::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


----------



## embella plaster

Those smiley faces meant to be beer wtf


----------



## cazna

embella plaster said:


> Those smiley faces meant to be beer wtf


Haha, Mate I love mine, I can fly with it, like superman, Almost. I have the 55mm 75mm and the 90mm coveheads, Its fast, Very fast at getting cove up.

I also have three alloy planks 4m long and put those up on two wooden bench trestles at waist height, Then a cove mitre box each end with a small saw for each, Use a lazer measure like gaz told me, Cut it up in room stacks on my big bench, Mud it out with cove head, Give tube a clean out put stilts on and go man go, Get the coving up there and clean it down, Have pans and knife and water buckets with sponges on my bench to and shes game on.


----------



## keke

this is the best presentation for HOW TO

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5h1RSyfZoo


----------



## Aussiecontractor

cazna said:


> Haha, Mate I love mine, I can fly with it, like superman, Almost. I have the 55mm 75mm and the 90mm coveheads, Its fast, Very fast at getting cove up.
> 
> I also have three alloy planks 4m long and put those up on two wooden bench trestles at waist height, Then a cove mitre box each end with a small saw for each, Use a lazer measure like gaz told me, Cut it up in room stacks on my big bench, Mud it out with cove head, Give tube a clean out put stilts on and go man go, Get the coving up there and clean it down, Have pans and knife and water buckets with sponges on my bench to and shes game on.



Wow do you trust them laser measures?
And how do you use it to measure hour cornice to cut it 


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----------



## gazman

I have been using one for about 10 years Aussie, the secret is don't buy a cheap one. A bloke I know got one of the cheaper Bosch ones and it was useless. Mine is a Leica disto and it has the ability to be able to adjust a back set,. So EVERY JOB I measure a length with my tape, I usually pick a wall around 3.5 to 4m, them adjust the laser measurer to that number. Mine is set anywhere between -5 to -7mm. I still use the tape to measure walls that haveexternals. It is the ducks nuts.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## fr8train

keke said:


> this is the best presentation for HOW TO
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5h1RSyfZoo


Yes please! She's hired!


----------



## VANMAN

fr8train said:


> Yes please! She's hired!


Piss of she's mine if she puts down the hammer!!:whistling2:


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> I have been using one for about 10 years Aussie, the secret is don't buy a cheap one. A bloke I know got one of the cheaper Bosch ones and it was useless. Mine is a Leica disto and it has the ability to be able to adjust a back set,. So EVERY JOB I measure a length with my tape, I usually pick a wall around 3.5 to 4m, them adjust the laser measurer to that number. Mine is set anywhere between -5 to -7mm. I still use the tape to measure walls that haveexternals. It is the ducks nuts.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


 The Leicas are the best, Mines just a makitia, I measure off the stilts hold it up there in the corner and measure the wall, Do the whole house, Write it on that wall but take 5mm off the measurement and im all good, Then draw room plans and just cut it all up at the bench and put it in room stacks label each stack what rooms what with the measurement on each one so it matches to the correct wall when things get a little lost, The exact measure wont fit far to tight but remove the 5mm gives me 2.5 each end and its usually sweet, Just right, If not just cut some off the back of the mitre or fill it.


----------



## Aussiecontractor

Sweet so you use measure tape to measure the cornice when your cutting ?


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----------



## Aussiecontractor

I sometimes use mine when setting out walls and ceiling heights


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cazna

Aussiecontractor said:


> Sweet so you use measure tape to measure the cornice when your cutting ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes, Easy as, Just doing it all at table off room plans with the laser measurements on it, Works out well, Just laser measure, Remove 5mm and that's the number you write on the wall, Doesn't matter if its 16m or 3m, Take 5mm off and im all good, No problems at all and tape measurements bang on, I don't set the tape and laser measure the same, It doesn't have that feature.

On the externals mine has a wee fold out tab at the back, Flip that out and hook it on the external and measure it, I use a tape for small short walls only.


----------



## gazman

Aussiecontractor said:


> Sweet so you use measure tape to measure the cornice when your cutting ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yes I use the tape to measure the cove on the bench, but get the actual wall measurements with the laser.


----------



## Aussiecontractor

Right I got ya now, was trying to imagine how you cut the cove using the laser measure. Good tips I might give it a burl


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## P.E.I.Taper

To sand lv5 or not to sand, that is the question


----------



## P.E.I.Taper

Sorry pic didn't show in last post


----------



## moore

P.E.I.Taper said:


> Sorry pic didn't show in last post


Light check it.....May not need sanding. Chit looks good to me!!!:yes:


----------



## embella plaster

How can level 5 not need a sand?


----------



## P.E.I.Taper

The wall looked really good. Everythinh was uniform. I could not see any tool marks on it what so ever. Three coats over tape, then the entire wall with really thin mud. 

I sanded it and the only differece was the texture sandpaper leaves as appose to the gloss look of the mud left on the wall. 

They didn't used to sand plaster, maybe im just a dreamer:what:


----------



## moore

....


----------



## cazna

Lol, Are you serious Moore, My benches have that exact same factory standard handle :whistling2:, I would add a pic but they at jobsite. Only difference is mine run across the bench not along like yours.


----------



## moore

cazna said:


> Lol, Are you serious Moore, My benches have that exact same factory standard handle :whistling2:, I would add a pic but they at jobsite. Only difference is mine run across the bench not along like yours.


The Werner benches here come with no handle and it's a bitch to move them around. I use too use A piece of rope but the metal from the bucket handles work really well! 


But I'll have to say ....For a Continent as small as yours You all sure seem to have the best of everything ! By the sounds of It!! :yes:


----------



## cazna

moore said:


> The Werner benches here come with no handle and it's a bitch to move them around. I use too use A piece of rope but the metal from the bucket handles work really well!
> 
> 
> But I'll have to say ....For a Continent as small as yours You all sure seem to have the best of everything ! By the sounds of It!! :yes:


They are hard to move about, I cant take the credit, My helper said a few years back these dam things need a handle, Just take a bucket handle, So I did, Best idea ever, Pic of proof tomorrow.

Will try and get a pic of back of board on this job, The tiger striping waves in it is amazing? I know its only the back but wow?? Is your board like that?

We don't have Donald Trump though  Looks like hes unstoppable now? Don't really know what to make of that?


----------



## gazman

These are the ones we have over here, they have an inbuilt handle as you can see. The down side is you can't leave them on site if you are not there.
http://www.tommytuckertrestles.com.au/#!plasters-stools/cijl


----------



## MrWillys

I have 3 Walkup's and have used them my whole life. Some say they're pricey but what's cost when it comes to your bread and butter. Call them Ole Silver my Horsey!

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Benches/

Mine are all American made and not the Chinese made one's.


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> I have 3 Walkup's and have used them my whole life. Some say they're pricey but what's cost when it comes to your bread and butter. Call them Ole Silver my Horsey!
> 
> http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Benches/
> 
> Mine are all American made and not the Chinese made one's.


They are a must have for hangers!!

But much too heavy and bulky for finishing ..


----------



## Aussiecontractor

gazman said:


> These are the ones we have over here, they have an inbuilt handle as you can see. The down side is you can't leave them on site if you are not there.
> http://www.tommytuckertrestles.com.au/#!plasters-stools/cijl



Great trestles! I got a few diferent types but I've still got a tommy tucker that's about 10 yr old 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## cazna

Ive been kicking these for a while now, 7years? They arnt even trade rated but do me well, The heights perfect for 2.4m stud which is most of what I get.


----------



## MrWillys

moore said:


> They are a must have for hangers!!
> 
> But much too heavy and bulky for finishing ..


It has more to do with strength. When you are 200 lbs (90K) you need something that can carry the load. When I was a kid the hangars made their own out of wood. The Walkup came out in 1964 but it was expensive. Here, the new generation uses those little aluminum ladders.


----------



## moore

MrWillys said:


> It has more to do with strength. When you are 200 lbs (90K) you need something that can carry the load. When I was a kid the hangars made their own out of wood. The Walkup came out in 1964 but it was expensive. Here, the new generation uses those little aluminum ladders.


I remember making benches out of wood 1x6s With flared legs .


----------



## Kiwiman

I cut a couple of slots in mine big enough to fit fingers and thumb, no handle to stand on.
Hey!!! .....mine is as dirty as Cazna the cleans one.


----------



## embella plaster

Im gay


----------



## Shelwyn

embella plaster said:


> Im gay


That's a really nice closet you just came out of you build it yourself? hehehe


----------



## embella plaster

Had to get it off my chest cant live a lie anymore


----------



## embella plaster

My fkn wife lol


----------



## embella plaster

It is revenge because i went on her Facebook and posted i like to poo with the lights off its like 4wd driving lol


----------



## VANMAN

embella plaster said:


> It is revenge because i went on her Facebook and posted i like to poo with the lights off its like 4wd driving lol


Revenge is sweet as they say!!:thumbup:
F*ck that made me laugh!!:icon_cheesygrin:


----------



## embella plaster

Serves me right having dwt constant open in my background......when ever i see her facebook open i pounce like a predator


----------



## keke

Be careful....you know that saying.....HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE


----------



## keke

Don't mess up too much if you don't want to pay a lot at the end


----------



## embella plaster

Yeah as you older guys have learnt she will always go further and win if u remember lol


----------



## VANMAN

embella plaster said:


> Yeah as you older guys have learnt she will always go further and win if u remember lol


Hell yea but that carry on nearly made me p*ss myself laughing !!:thumbup:
She sounds like a hoot:thumbsup:


----------



## embella plaster

VANMAN said:


> Hell yea but that carry on nearly made me p*ss myself laughing !!:thumbup:
> She sounds like a hoot:thumbsup:


I am really awesome 😜


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## VANMAN

embella plaster said:


> I am really awesome 😜


Has she hijacked ur dwt again?:whistling2:


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## mld

embella plaster said:


> i like to poo with the lights off lol


Just keep your shirt on or stuff will get really weird around here......


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## cazna

mld said:


> Just keep your shirt on or stuff will get really weird around here......


 Haha, I forgot about him?? He was a special one 

He was around before you embella, Like to take a dump with no shirt on, Don't mention chicken either, Apparently that makes you a raciest? 

He got to much and got banned................Don't worry you have mountain's to climb before you reach such a grand level of nut caseness.


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## VANMAN

cazna said:


> Haha, I forgot about him?? He was a special one
> 
> He was around before you embella, Like to take a dump with no shirt on, Don't mention chicken either, Apparently that makes you a raciest?
> 
> He got to much and got banned................Don't worry you have mountain's to climb before you reach such a grand level of nut caseness.


Remember the time he was on about losing his gun?:blink:
And he found it again in someone's loft LOL
Not sure where he was from but who the hell takes a gun to drywall/finish a house?
Yea he was some crazy dude!!


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## moore

I think his final straw was when he sent silver stilts a nasty pm. And called him a cracker. Lol!!! Cat d7 was a nut!!!! Speaking of silver where the world has he been? Ain't heard a peep from him in a while ..


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## moore

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I don't call it art,,, already stated that I think its mearly a skilled trade.
> 
> I find "drywall as usual" the thing that makes my living. And YES, I am content to keep on doing that very thing.
> 
> I do NOT take myself very seriously (heck no-one else does). Man, its just drywall!!!!!!
> 
> If it's flat and it looks good,,,, your done!!!!!
> 
> Trust me,,, you don't need a laser to get ya there!!:whistling2:


Exactly !


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## fr8train

VANMAN said:


> Remember the time he was on about losing his gun?:blink:
> 
> And he found it again in someone's loft LOL
> 
> Not sure where he was from but who the hell takes a gun to drywall/finish a house?
> 
> Yea he was some crazy dude!!



Probably depend on the type of neighborhood!

Besides, you're a Brit. You don't have the same right to bear arms as we do here. 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VANMAN

fr8train said:


> Probably depend on the type of neighborhood!
> 
> Besides, you're a Brit. You don't have the same right to bear arms as we do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's true!
Just as well as I would be in jail just now!!:blink:


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## VANMAN

fr8train said:


> Probably depend on the type of neighborhood!
> 
> Besides, you're a Brit. You don't have the same right to bear arms as we do here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's true!
Just as well as I would be in jail just now!!:blink:
Had to say it twice lol!!
Things went nutts!


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## krafty

When doing fire tops on both sides of a wall cut one then trace it backwards for opposite side. Measure once.


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## fr8train

VANMAN said:


> That's true!
> 
> Just as well as I would be in jail just now!!:blink:
> 
> Had to say it twice lol!!
> 
> Things went nutts!




This should lighten the mood Vanman
https://vimeo.com/173146759


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## VANMAN

fr8train said:


> This should lighten the mood Vanman
> https://vimeo.com/173146759
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What the f is that?
If that's the queen doing a jig then she can jig on some other poor f*cker!
Don't like them much and we the tax payer payed her 48 million last year!
But her travel expenses came down 5% from the year before:thumbup:
Only cost £1,000,000:furious:


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## fr8train

Lol yup the "dancing queen"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fr8train

48 mill is quite the welfare check!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## D A Drywall

Any tricks to replace gooser needle in a pinch? Washed my zooka last night. Went to start running tapes this morning and wtf? Tape won't advance. Needle gone. What a pita trying to advance tape with fingers and four inch. Gonna have to add to the spare parts tool box.


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## gopherstateguy

D A Drywall said:


> Any tricks to replace gooser needle in a pinch? Washed my zooka last night. Went to start running tapes this morning and wtf? Tape won't advance. Needle gone. What a pita trying to advance tape with fingers and four inch. Gonna have to add to the spare parts tool box.


I have filed down small finishing nails and clipped off safety pins. You can also feed the tape with your middle and pointer fingers on the cutter tube hand, but it's tricky. Don't get your palm caught in the cutter tube rollers!


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## Razoo

I tape a plastic bag around my roto zip to keep the dust out of my face.


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## gordie

Good trick Razoo I wrap my hand around the vents during the rought when done I hold it open to let it air out a bit 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## TomRestore

thank you for posting this thread. I was looking for the handy tips for trade. this discussion is really helpful for me.


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## pangdev

*use a tape hopper*

want to save time taping?

Use a hopper.. Saves tons of time.


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## endo_alley_revisited

pangdev said:


> want to save time taping?
> 
> Use a hopper.. Saves tons of time.


How so?


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## AbiKitchBath

Will be following this for tips and tricks for our remodeling company


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## endo_alley_revisited

pangdev said:


> want to save time taping?
> 
> Use a hopper.. Saves tons of time.


Faster than a bazooka?


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## endo_alley_revisited

If, when flat boxing, you have an extra flat box and handle of the same size, have a helper load mud in the second box. That way once you have exhausted the mud in one box, there is another full box always ready to go. When not filling the empty flat box, this helper can also be running a broad knife across the fresh mudded bands and butt joints too. This gets rid of lap marks, angle gaps, and air pock marks. Use a long handle to wipe ceiling flats from floor. Once you master this system it goes incredibly fast. It is best to have enough mud mixed to complete an entire level before beginning.


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## legendofrock

A ripper is called a bellyband here in the northeast and it is NOT to be put in the middle. That's the lazy way. The rip should always be put at the top of the wall so that you have two factory joints to finish. Putting it in the middle of the wall will give you a nasty butt joint that will run the length of the wall. Putting it at the top is a courtesy to the taper so he doesn't have to bend down to finish the joint.
If you are to use a power saw to cut rock you should have on a mask and be using a vacuum with HEPA filter to collect the dust. Health and safety is a lot more important than saving the 60 sixty seconds it takes to cut by hand.
Be smart. Hanging is physically challenging and cutting corners leads to a sub par finish with extra work for the taper as well as getting someone hurt.


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## endo_alley_revisited

legendofrock said:


> A ripper is called a bellyband here in the northeast and it is NOT to be put in the middle. That's the lazy way. The rip should always be put at the top of the wall so that you have two factory joints to finish. Putting it in the middle of the wall will give you a nasty butt joint that will run the length of the wall. Putting it at the top is a courtesy to the taper so he doesn't have to bend down to finish the joint.
> If you are to use a power saw to cut rock you should have on a mask and be using a vacuum with HEPA filter to collect the dust. Health and safety is a lot more important than saving the 60 sixty seconds it takes to cut by hand.
> Be smart. Hanging is physically challenging and cutting corners leads to a sub par finish with extra work for the taper as well as getting someone hurt.



Both good points. I guess the only time we allow belly bands is when the rip is 6" or less. (100" -102" ceilings ) We use 1/2" sheetrock plus one shim under the belly joint and no factory edge on the 1/2' rock. This for a 5/8" rocked wall with factory edge top and bottom of belly joint. 1/2" rock plus one shim lines up fairly well with the factory edge of 5/8" rock. Not perfect. But easier than a 4"- 6" rip on top of wall.


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## Jonathan Milan

Don't throw away an old hollow-door. Use it as a worktable. Get a couple of saw horses and lay it on top for a light and stable surface area. It's flat, strong, and easy to store! Tricks from a handyman


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## Shelwyn

If you're gonna test out drywall hanging robots make sure you put a 1/2 inch lift on every wall or you'll end up having to raise all the board.


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## flooringguy

Mud Master said:


> Got plenty for finishing...but lemme see what I can come up with..
> 
> When setting the depth of your screw gun, always do it on a piece of dunnage before production starts as opposed to on the wall during production.
> 
> Never tack around any fixtures that you will later cut/route out. Do that after.
> 
> Nail the edges, screw the field.
> 
> In residential construction. putting adhesive on BOTH the framing & the drywall isn't necessary, but it helps.
> 
> When dealing with ceilings hieghts that are "odd"(8'3 for example), measure and hang so that your ripper goes in the middle of the wall, and not at the top or bottom.
> 
> Oh, when cutting cementboard..WHERE A MASK!!
> 
> 
> That's all for now, I am sure I will add to later.
> 
> Your Turn....


This is a great one


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## endo_alley

flooringguy said:


> This is a great one


All except,"Nail the edges, screw the field." That is old school. Nails will eventually pop. It's screws all the way these days. Although screws can pop if you sink them too deep. Or if you omit shimming an "Inee" on a wall and use the screws to bend a sheet in.


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## Antwon93

J


savant said:


> If you have a *lot *of sheets of rock to cut the same size, you can stack them flat, and cut them with a cheap circular saw. it'll cut through several layers at the same time while leaving a score mark on the last one. You can use it as a guide for the next cut. Seriously, this works like gangbusters. I've done it this way for years, and it's not a bad idea.
> 
> It's not nearly as dusty as you'd think.


Just did this today on a ceiling few inches off 8ft and yeah there wasn't much dust at all. I think the rotor makes just as much if not more dust


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## Antwon93

When ever the paper rips add another 2 screws on each side so they don't pop through

Make sure your drywall flat on the wall by pushing on it with your hand you almost always wanna be pushing on the drywall with ur hand

If drywall is bulging out grab a scrap with a factory edge or rasp it smooth and smash the drywall in place (i love this one)

Pipe comes out a little and you can't make it in the wall screw the shit out of the spot bulging it will eventually stop popping lol

Running your gun is a bit faster then always pushing the button (dewalt gun has a switch to keep it on) 

I also find with dewalt screw gun if u cast the shadow a certain way it points at the spot below where the screw should go( if u miss studs alot or are bad at spacing)

Always have around 6 screws in your hand roll them out to get ready to throw on gun as your screwing one screw for speedy screwing time is money folks

Missed screws go reverse push on screw and rip to side to easily pull out my co worker has a tool for pulling screws out I think is great I m going to buy 1 

Kind of new at drywall let me know what you think of tips


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## Antwon93

Drywall1 said:


> Buy a board strecher. When short my hangers always call me and say "it was a little tight on rock but we got out the board strecher and we made it work" I don't know how much they cost, but they must be small because I've never seen it on the job.:whistling2:


 I think that's a joke


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## Stephanie Velez

D A Drywall said:


> Any tricks to replace gooser needle in a pinch? Washed my zooka last night. Went to start running tapes this morning and wtf? Tape won't advance. Needle gone. What a pita trying to advance tape with fingers and four inch. Gonna have to add to the spare parts tool box.


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## Stephanie Velez

The tricks and tips are very helpful. Great info!


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## Shelwyn

The tiny bazooka needles only cost a few cents each, so I bought like 20 a few years ago when mine wore out and wasn't sharp/ pointy anymore. I also did the same with the blades, I bought way too many cutting blades, and after years of poor storage, they're all rusted and useless now, hahaha—a few dollars down the drain.


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## Yunggranmassa

This is the smoothest & most hassle-free way to cut a doorway that will blow the minds of even the most vetted hangers & finishers, and they always ask to see it again.

If you wanna show em' somethin:
Tack the board up.. Walk a few screws along the jack/or king stud to get you close to the header. Hop over to the brownside, but before backscribing with a knife --

- Take your keyhole saw & pop it through the corners & cut down about 2 inches at a 45°, then make a small notch in the at the bottom.
-Then take a utility knife, backscribe the opening, then come out of the corners at a 45° & cut a "V" to the bottom knotch you made.
-Hop to the Whiteside & scribe the same "V" from the keyhole cuts to the notch. Tug the notch towards you with a wiggle to break your "V" free, and you'll have 3 triangles. Pull em, cut the creases then give em a smack and watch them drop. Perfect door cut & faster than anything else.
**works for stand up & lay down all the same


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