# Tricks Of The Finishing Trade



## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

I just joined but I think we need our own tricks thread.

1. I pre-fill and spot screws the first day with my 2" nail spotter. Yes, that's right, if my hangers are kind enough to V my butts, I run the nail spotter right down the middle with Hamilton's Light Taping right out of the box but whipped up. This is a great trick I learned from a kick ass, lazy old timer. (Works great on high lids!)

2. Buy a 24" Phillips screw driver if you're short for putting lid screws in. (From the same old, lazy dude.)

3. Mix your taping mud right in the boxes, flaps up, bag up.

4. Use No-Coat, roll it on, then coat it right away without wiping it. (Same for any paper bead.)

5. WD-40 on your tub flanges!

6. Take off your flat box springs, that way you don't always have to re-push the mud.

7. Double back your stilt straps, so you don't have a blow out. (Like a motorcycle helmet.)


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

. Mix your taping mud right in the boxes, flaps up, bag up.
I cant stop laughing.....why ? are buckets harder to find than gold in Montana ?
just teasing tricks of the trade good idea, here is mine.
long ball-peen hammer to fix nails ,screws ,and tabs ,if the home owner or general contractor dont like it ,then send the drywaller back to fix it,I'm not there to do their job or make them look good


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

:whistling2:i cant stop laughing at mixing in the box. Are u serious? I wonder how much plastic u have in your mud. Get a bucket and roll the plastic over the sides of the box and dump it in the bucket. Doing it like that gets all the mud. Doing that is like wiping before u go to the bathroom


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Have you tryed mixing it in the box?? I though it was funny too but tryed it this week and it worked sweet as, but flaps and bag down for me, No plastic and yes it does mix all the mud, as the mud circulates it brings up all the mud from the edges :thumbsup: True story, it worked fine for me, i just picked the bag out when mixed and cut the bottom and the mud flowed into the bucket easy as, milk the bag like a cows tit and your done.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

What about the one where you mix a couple of cup fulls of 90min setting into box mud and that stops shrinking for a filling coat, Anybody tryed that one, i havent yet but will one day, sounds mad but hey if you dont try you will never know, Nothings learned by not screwing it up first.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> What about the one where you mix a couple of cup fulls of 90min setting into box mud and that stops shrinking for a filling coat, Anybody tryed that one, i havent yet but will one day, sounds mad but hey if you dont try you will never know, Nothings learned by not screwing it up first.


I do it on a regular basis. I mix about a pan full of 90 to a bucket of GP. When you do this, if you don't use it all today, just pour a pan full of water on it when you leave, then tomarrow, just pour the water off, mix it up again and go back at it. It won't dry any faster(hot mud never does, just sets) but it WILL stop your mud from shrinking,,, its the duck's-nuts for metal beads.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I know one taper who puts 2 cups of sheet rock in his boxing mud ,as the capt n said it was less shrinkage and you can remix it next day,But this taper swore it cut down on porosity (fish eyes,wall eyes etc) cant tell you if its true,dont use metal bead no more ,so no more sheet rock, let me know if that's true if you try it


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

To clarify, mix the mud in the box with the flaps up and the plastic pulled up and over. Same as dumping a box, but with the flaps up!
The only mud I do this with is Light Taping, never any plastic in the mud.
(I use a Goldblatt Easy Clean Mixer just for that reason. Less occasional plastic slivers in your mud too because of the rounded edges.)

One of my reasons for doing this is because you can mix as many boxes as you need, then all you do is dump them into the bucket all day, no need to head back to the drill!



Capt-sheetrock said:


> I do it on a regular basis. I mix about a pan full of 90 to a bucket of GP. When you do this, if you don't use it all today, just pour a pan full of water on it when you leave, then tomarrow, just pour the water off, mix it up again and go back at it. It won't dry any faster(hot mud never does, just sets) but it WILL stop your mud from shrinking,,, its the duck's-nuts for metal beads.


Captain, do you do this with the skim coat?
I've heard bad stories about sanding for smooth or orange peel and having little pieces of hot mud not sanding as flat as the rest of the wall.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I do it on a regular basis. I mix about a pan full of 90 to a bucket of GP. When you do this, if you don't use it all today, just pour a pan full of water on it when you leave, then tomarrow, just pour the water off, mix it up again and go back at it. It won't dry any faster(hot mud never does, just sets) but it WILL stop your mud from shrinking,,, its the duck's-nuts for metal beads.


 
Dang?? Sure gonna try it now? Cheers Capt, Go the ducks nuts:thumbsup:


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## WallDoctor (Jul 5, 2010)

I used to mix in the boxes but what I don't like about it is that the mud sticks to the plastic more and you don't get as much of it out as when you just dump it into a pail first and then mix it. Also, we used to work right out of the box this way and i found that if you didn't use the entire box, then the sides of plastic dry out and you start getting chunks in your mud. I prefer just dumping into a pail and then mixing. 

I've never tried the wd-40 trick though I've heard of it before. I know it would make cleanup easier around the tub but I can't imagine it's good for bonding where you WANT the mud.

I use plaster thincoat metal mesh bead (mini-bead) so I don't see how after stapling my bead on, having a bucket of 90 min would be all that much faster by coating as I put on my bead....unless maybe if I was using paper bead which I hate.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Checkers said:


> Captain, do you do this with the skim coat?
> I've heard bad stories about sanding for smooth or orange peel and having little pieces of hot mud not sanding as flat as the rest of the wall.


I don't add it to the skim coat, skim coat is thin enough, its really wax-on, wax-off. Skim is just to fill any scratches and feather the edges. If you add the powder to your bed mud, it will not shrink, therefore making your skim coat super thin. Just give it a try.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

WallDoctor said:


> I've never tried the wd-40 trick though I've heard of it before. I know it would make cleanup easier around the tub but I can't imagine it's good for bonding where you WANT the mud.


I have seen people use wd on tub flanges, but I'm with you on this, got to make a bad bond for the mud to rock.
Heres a trick for tub flanges, fold your tape just like for a corner. run the mud, then lay the tape on the tub flange, letting one side lay on the tub flange, after your done finishing it and get it sanded, just run a razor knife around the flange and cut the loose tape off. Great edge and no mud on flange.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

WD evaporates pretty quick,,, i've never tried it i'm just saying wd evaporates pretty quick in general (sometimes too quick)
________
Roll blunts


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## Axecutioner-B (May 3, 2010)

For small jobs: Mix a mix of 50/50 +3(lightweight Joint Compound) & 20 minute (hot mud). It will go on like butter but set like 28 minute.

to the naysayers who say +3 says right on the box "do not mix with anything" i say i dont care it works good !!
________
Live Sex Webshows


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## 1wallboardsman (Feb 20, 2008)

Box mud is a nickel saved, preventing a dollar from being made.

Spotting screws and prefilling first with a nailspotter is a good idea. Wrap your skid plate with plastic from a milk jug, that will keep it from hanging on joints and reduce drag greatly.

Short people in drywall should be paid by height.

If you want no shrinkage, and for sure drying, use EZ Sand 210 or 180. Plenty of working time to use it in any tool.

If you want to keep window frames and bathtubs clean, learn how to use your knives properly. Nothing pisses off a hand finisher more then a tool finisher that does cleaner and better hand work then he does.

jdl


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

1wallboardsman said:


> Spotting screws and prefilling first with a nailspotter is a good idea. Wrap your skid plate with plastic from a milk jug, that will keep it from hanging on joints and reduce drag greatly.
> 
> 
> jdl


 Can you elaborate on this?? never heard of this trick, but would like to understand what you mean. I am always looking for a new way.


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

yeah, the milk jug wrap sounds like a winner. I'll be trying that on my next job. Maybe even this one if I get around to it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Checkers
6. Take off your flat box springs, that way you don't always have to re-push the mud.
no big difference till i did the butts ,made a huge difference there,anyone doing a job with stand ups will love this trick
-still not mixing my mud in the mud box though  thanks checkers have a beer on me


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

when running 3" nail spotter on second coat run spotter more to the left like this ! O! then on third coat run it more to the right like this !O ! then you will end up with a 4 to 5 inch nail coat (like this ! o ! which makes it more easy to sand


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

to get nice box work , say you run your box at # 3 ,run around loading 4 or 5 rooms with your box set at #4 (tighter setting) dont worry about lines ,fish eyes etc,just get it on the wall as fast as you can,(dont do butts yet). now open box to #3 and go back to where you first started and run your box over your work again and do your butts now.your work will look like glass,
Why will it look good , b/c your first run is reacting to the drywall and is beginning to shrink ,to experiment just 10" a joint and go back 10 minutes later and run it again ,you will be amazed


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

If you want no shrinkage, and for sure drying, use EZ Sand 210 or 180. Plenty of working time to use it in any tool. jdl.



Yeah great idea this one, i used the 210 for a while through the tools until one day the 210 decided to go off in two mins flat after being mixed for around 90min (Yes it was the 210) my pump was full and bazooka nearly empty but still set solid about 15cm in the tube.
What a f up, took forever to pick solid mud from the tools, ever tryed getting solid mud out of a gooseneck, bazooka and pump not so bad but after about a million stabs with wire for a few hrs you might get the gooseneck clean.

And i found the ES 210 i had to keep at it with the masher and some water to keep it nice for the bazooka so now i use banjo or a cam am tube with the heads for any setting or just do it by hand if its a smaller job, does not take long to clean up a hawk and trowel.

Setting through the tools i have found just not worth the trouble.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> to get nice box work , say you run your box at # 3 ,run around loading 4 or 5 rooms with your box set at #4 (tighter setting) dont worry about lines ,fish eyes etc,just get it on the wall as fast as you can,(dont do butts yet). now open box to #3 and go back to where you first started and run your box over your work again and do your butts now.your work will look like glass,
> Why will it look good , b/c your first run is reacting to the drywall and is beginning to shrink ,to experiment just 10" a joint and go back 10 minutes later and run it again ,you will be amazed


 
Gonna try this one, you got some good posts happening 2buckcanuck :thumbsup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> to get nice box work , say you run your box at # 3 ,run around loading 4 or 5 rooms with your box set at #4 (tighter setting) dont worry about lines ,fish eyes etc,just get it on the wall as fast as you can,(dont do butts yet). now open box to #3 and go back to where you first started and run your box over your work again and do your butts now.your work will look like glass,
> Why will it look good , b/c your first run is reacting to the drywall and is beginning to shrink ,to experiment just 10" a joint and go back 10 minutes later and run it again ,you will be amazed


What's trick? 

What benefit is this to your production or quality?


:whistling2:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I don't add it to the skim coat, skim coat is thin enough, its really wax-on, wax-off. Skim is just to fill any scratches and feather the edges. If you add the powder to your bed mud, it will not shrink, therefore making your skim coat super thin. Just give it a try.


And I thought you where against quick sets


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> when running 3" nail spotter on second coat run spotter more to the left like this ! O! then on third coat run it more to the right like this !O ! then you will end up with a 4 to 5 inch nail coat (like this ! o ! which makes it more easy to sand


Is this a trick or art work?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Wow Mudstar, keep up the helpful posts.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Mudstar said:


> And I thought you where against quick sets


Quick set is a tool, just like all the rest of em. I don't do the mesh and all straight hot mud thing, for sure. That doesn't mean I don't add some hot mud to GP for effect. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and the cat ain't gonna like none of em !!!:thumbsup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> Wow Mudstar, keep up the helpful posts.


Here's a trick or two

Trick is coming on to a site where a guy just finished and there's no mud on the floor

Trick is looking at the walls done and they all look the same

Trick is running your hand down the wall with you eye closed to find the butts (no pun intended) and you can't

Trick is any tool that make application faster and with the lest amount of effort

Trick is realizing that not every tool speeds up or makes your quality anymore exceptional some just don't work as claimed.

Trick is walking out of a house you just finished into the next (in a bad economy)

Trick is to retire before the average working stacker with no debit


Now its time to get back to work slackers


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

I'm starting to like fibafuse for my short tapes (less than 6 inches). It slides around less than paper.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Quick set is a tool, just like all the rest of em. I don't do the mesh and all straight hot mud thing, for sure. That doesn't mean I don't add some hot mud to GP for effect. There is more than one way to skin a cat, and the cat ain't gonna like none of em !!!:thumbsup:



Sanding behind any quick set I find shaves off at a different rate then regular compound leaving it a bit ripply. Even if its not quick set, mixing compounds of different types can cause the same issues I'm not saying Im perfect at taping but I tried some of this methods myself but always ended up going back to coating it 3 times as suggested.

My trick after taping and ready for coating I:

1. Fill bevels and level bead & butts first letting it shrink and dry completely before continuing.

2. Second coat everything to make level and flat again then let dry complete again. Its pretty much level at this point but if any beads or butt need attention at this point I hit them again.

3. I lightly sand everything pretty much finished which most call done. 
(but not myself) 

4. Now I tight skim everything a 3rd. time to take care of the imperfections making for and easy feather sanding of the edges where compound and drywall meet to finish.

JS


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Mudstar said:


> Sanding behind any quick set I find shaves off at a different rate then regular compound leaving it a bit ripply. Even if its not quick set, mixing compounds of different types can cause the same issues I'm not saying Im perfect at taping but I tried some of this methods myself but always ended up going back to coating it 3 times as suggested.
> 
> My trick after taping and ready for coating I:
> 
> ...


I hear ya, but we don't live in a perfect world.

If your bedding a house and its raining outside, been raining for days,, do ya do it the same??? Thats when some hot mud will help ya, it still don't dry any faster, but it don't shrink !!!!

Sometimes you guys rail on me for techniques, but ya got to remember, that differant times call for differant tech's. 

There is no such thing as "normal" in our trade, its differant all year long, ya got to learn how to make a job finish the same, regardless of the time of the year or the weather.

Think about it !!!!!!

PS. If your telling me that you sand your bed coat before you skim,,,,,, what the heck are you doing,, telling me I don't know what I'm doing????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

dictionary definition of a trick - An act or procedure intended to achieve an end by deceptive or fraudulent means . A deceptive or illusive appearance; an illusion ,A special skill; a knack ,A convention or specialized skill peculiar to a particular field of activity ,a simple feat learned by an animal or person ,A prostitute's customer ,does any one of my tricks fit anyone of these parameters mudstar
I will agree with with you on one thing ,mixing different types of mud or hot muds can create undesirable results when sanding,I found it was great that there is a site out there like this where other tapers can respond,give feed back,HELP,share tips ,secrets,advice,TRICKS,etc...if I can help anyone that's new to the trade or a old fart like me, i will.some simple little piece of advice may be very beneficial to some body new starting out .I'm just a fool that's willing to learn ,for you know what they say "a wise man don't need no advice and a fool wont take none"
which province do you hail from oh sir mister wise mudstar


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I hear ya, but we don't live in a perfect world.
> 
> If your bedding a house and its raining outside, been raining for days,, do ya do it the same??? Thats when some hot mud will help ya, it still don't dry any faster, but it don't shrink !!!!
> 
> ...



If the humidity is not allowing it to dry I try and lower the it with heat or fans and or dehumidifiers if available. Other then that it might take a bit longer. 

Your absolutely right about abnormal conditions there Capt. I do follow the same procedure closely trying to create a product that is the same and that's why over time we have all developed slightly different techniques to get the same results in different conditions. That was a mouth full of the same wasn't it. :blink: 

Something like how you and I tape the angles later when most tapers I know do it on the first day. :thumbsup:

That's true about the times are different and I'm finding the mud shrinks less then ever before and I'm bedding tighter then I ever have and I can understand why you all have gone too two coats to finish.

But I tape , bed, level, pre sand tool marks and high spots off then skim tight and final feather sand. Its might seem like I'm doing one extra step in some eyes but I don't run my boxes and go back over it with a knife trowel or my box again I pass over the tape 3 times with my boxes that's it .

That's just how I've done it over the years, 3 coats no less sometimes more if its a bad board job.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudstar just assuming your #1tape (of coarse) 7"or 8" box,then run a 10"box,then skim with a 12" .I'm sorta the same as you but I double 10" while it's wet ,(go over it again 1/2 hour later or sooner depending on weather) then 12" box ,then(depending on builder) skim painted ceilings ,bathrooms,kitchen ,living rooms etc .that's technically four coats in some places.I also put on angle tapes after I 10" and coat bead .As you know their fussy up here in canuck land,those long cold dark winters give the home owners lots of time to stare at their walls


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

What a great tread this has become, good work guys i agree with all of it, I have tryed and are doing all you talk about and its great to read others are too, Can feel like a lone ranger sometimes, Got nothing to add as you have covered it well, Just thanks.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

i have never tried taping my angles after i bedded my flats. But if u think about it it makes sence, because ur angles arent going to wave or dip as they can because ur flats and butts are leveled. Ima try it


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

tricounty dwall said:


> i have never tried taping my angles after i bedded my flats. But if u think about it it makes sence, because ur angles arent going to wave or dip as they can because ur flats and butts are leveled. Ima try it


You won't be disappointed

:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

tips or tricks for the new guys (not u mudstar )
use wiping knife on a pole sander or angle pole to wipe cieling flats (duct tape it on )then kick around a empty bucket to wipe your knife off on it
cant reach those high ceiling screws ,stick flat applicator on your can am tube then dab -poke screw heads to leave a blob,then use that new long wiping knife to wipe them ,(if u don't have a spotter or hate spotter on 1st coat)
use that flat applicator to load mud onto drywall to put your no coat 45 on (straight flex) then use angle roller to roll it (saves u money on some more tools  if u have lots of them to do
don't be afraid to put your angle tapes on 1st then flats if your gunning to get a job all taped out in one day,this allows you to go room by room or floor (level) floor ,no doubling back ,wise tale that the flats half to go on 1st
if coating by hand (or bead) use a crown/curve trowel or put a bend in a 10 or 12 inch wiping knife
thanx cazna I'd love to move to your country,it's nice there


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Ive always done flats, corners then angles, works for me, Flats first so then the corners sit flatter in the tapers, and corners 2nd so then the angles go over the top, everything overlaps and sits well.

You wouldnt like it here 2buck, plenty of fresh air, rivers lakes and streams and seas full of fish, mountians, bush deer, biggest city is 1.5 million which is up the top out of the way of the real NZ. No bears snakes scorpians or nukes, We do have a few hobbits and rings that need to get there sh!t sorted out though. Maybe you could help with that :blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Mudstar said:


> If the humidity is not allowing it to dry I try and lower the it with heat or fans and or dehumidifiers if available. Other then that it might take a bit longer.
> 
> Your absolutely right about abnormal conditions there Capt. I do follow the same procedure closely trying to create a product that is the same and that's why over time we have all developed slightly different techniques to get the same results in different conditions. That was a mouth full of the same wasn't it. :blink:
> 
> ...


Ya know, I was tapeing a fire dept add-on today, my helper was out, had to go get his finger lanced, swelled up like a glove. I was using easy-sand( I know its junk),hand tapeing (12 ft ceiling off a baker) It was raining outside, the floor is a slab, the mud clumped up like peanut-butter after the first wipe. I know they say they don't change the mix, but we all know thats BS. This is one of those times where things aren't "normal". I think that alot of the dissagreements around the site come from stuff like this. 

So tomarrow, I will go in and "back-skim" it with a 7 box, I generally don't do this, but generally, the mud don't F up like it did today. I'll add some powder to my mud and coat the metal beads (cheaper) so they don't shrink, then at lunch I'll drink a cpl light beers and then bed the damn thing with an 8 box. At the end of the day, I will have it bedded (providing it don't rain again). Cause if it don't dry, I have to wait. Thats one factor that makes us do crazy things and try to figure out alternitives. 

But on a lighter note, the firemen think it looks great,,, (and I'm thinking,,, Gee thanks, but you ain't got a clue). Go figure
:whistling2:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I meant to say easy-finish, not easy-sand.

And If ANY of you guys can teach me how to edit a post, I won't have to do this all the time. LOL

My computer will not let me edit these posts. Oh well, its got to be the OLE-GOAT syndrone


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I meant to say easy-finish, not easy-sand.
> 
> And If ANY of you guys can teach me how to edit a post, I won't have to do this all the time. LOL
> 
> My computer will not let me edit these posts. Oh well, its got to be the OLE-GOAT syndrone




You must be using Microscraps Internet Exploder for you browser, try using Firefox I think it the best browser and a lot less buggy

:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

the guy that taught me to tape always said "find a system and stick with it ,but change your system if you must"
sounds like someone had one of those days


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> the guy that taught me to tape always said "find a system and stick with it ,but change your system if you must"
> sounds like someone had one of those days


That would be me, and yes, you are right. Tomarrow morning, I'm heading out to get me some pro-form Machine-grade. 

Easy-finish was good stuff at first, till they got everyone hooked by the price. We even said that as soon as everyone got to using it they would dumb it down, and sho nuff they have.

I know, I know,, I'm old enough I should know better, but heck, I am a drywaller.:thumbup: 

Do we EVER learn????


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Mudstar said:


> 3. I lightly sand everything pretty much finished which most call done.
> (but not myself)
> 
> 4. Now I tight skim everything a 3rd. time to take care of the imperfections making for and easy feather sanding of the edges where compound and drywall meet to finish.
> ...


 WHOA, it's like you're paid .80c /foot to do your job!


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## SaskMud (Jun 9, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> WHOA, it's like you're paid .80c /foot to do your job!



Thats a little cheap in my area.

Most companies here come in around that, but since we specialize in residential we get all bonded employees, so our customers feel safe having finishers in their house, cause here the trade is overrun by substance abuse and alcoholics etc.

We thrive on having reliable and trustworthy employees. I'd rather train a new guy from ground up that is of good character before hiring an awesome finisher that loves Crack. Lol


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

^Same here. Okay, let me re-phrase that. It's like he's paid $1.20/ft!


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Bevelation said:


> ^Same here. Okay, let me re-phrase that. It's like he's paid $1.20/ft!


an't my work $2 per. foot gee what I'm I doing working for so cheap


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Mudstar said:


> an't my work $2 per. foot gee what I'm I doing working for so cheap


Wouldn't that be nice?


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## dr.drywall (Jul 23, 2010)

*going prices*

if anyone would care to give me going prices on hanging/finishing and acoustical ceilings that would truly help me. just moved back to this side of the states.i need just the labor prices only preferably by the square foot.thank you for any help you might have.God bless


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## MeatBallDryWall (Jan 9, 2010)

> if anyone would care to give me going prices on hanging/finishing and acoustical ceilings that would truly help me. just moved back to this side of the states.i need just the labor prices only preferably by the square foot.thank you for any help you might have.God bless


Welp, if your in TN I would say that it's Not Enuff. :jester: Try asking all the F'n illegals we have running amuck & our idiotic government & maybe they can Help. :whistling2:


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

Back on topic please?
haha


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## SamTHorn (Mar 16, 2010)

Checkers said:


> I just joined but I think we need our own tricks thread.
> 
> 1. I pre-fill and spot screws the first day with my 2" nail spotter. Yes, that's right, if my hangers are kind enough to V my butts, I run the nail spotter right down the middle with Hamilton's Light Taping right out of the box but whipped up. This is a great trick I learned from a kick ass, lazy old timer. (Works great on high lids!)
> 
> ...


Clever! WD-40. I wish I thought of that. Thanks for sharing...

:thumbup:


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## BedRoc (Jul 28, 2010)

Believe it or not, my dad was actually in a test group for mixing mud in a box at the Saskatoon University. He had major doubts and always dumped it in a buckett, but I guess people thought it might be a good idea.....he said it was the worst thing he had ever seen in his life.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I don't think I can mix mud in the boxes available in Western Canada. The mud boxes are shaped so that they're tall and rectangular, not square like what you get in eastern Canada and USA. Your whip's diameter is probably too big to fit inside.


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## SaskMud (Jun 9, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> to get nice box work , say you run your box at # 3 ,run around loading 4 or 5 rooms with your box set at #4 (tighter setting) dont worry about lines ,fish eyes etc,just get it on the wall as fast as you can,(dont do butts yet). now open box to #3 and go back to where you first started and run your box over your work again and do your butts now.your work will look like glass,
> Why will it look good , b/c your first run is reacting to the drywall and is beginning to shrink ,to experiment just 10" a joint and go back 10 minutes later and run it again ,you will be amazed



Just tryed that method with my Drywall Master Boxes.. AMAZING!!! great finish!


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## FibaFuse (Feb 25, 2010)

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I'm starting to like fibafuse for my short tapes (less than 6 inches). It slides around less than paper.


That's an excellent comment. The surface texture of FibaFuse is rougher than paper. That must be why slippage is less.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Put super glue in the splits on your fingers and knuckles...works better than a band aid, just make sure the glues dry before you pick your nose or scratch your man-gina :blink:.


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Put super glue in the splits on your fingers and knuckles...works better than a band aid, just make sure the glues dry before you pick your nose or scratch your man-gina :blink:.


:thumbup:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Kiwiman said:


> Put super glue in the splits on your fingers and knuckles...works better than a band aid, just make sure the glues dry before you pick your nose or scratch your man-gina :blink:.


they have medication for that girly guy


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Mudstar said:


> they have medication for that girly guy


 It's called *AL-BURRRRR-DAH!*


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## michel1949 (Jul 21, 2010)

usualy water sould take care of it


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

FRANK,,are you for real? Sorry but your post have DIY all over them!!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

there's nothing you can do,it's only good for fire wood now,maybe you can sell it in AL -BURRRRR - DA


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

If it's solid oak you could probably now use it to stand on, to install your bathroom vents.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I saw a good one today...

We were skip troweling the angles in a few rooms where new board meets old at the lid, and we noticed that the previous finisher had fogged the lid with a salt and pepper orange peel before skip. We joked about grabbing a funnel and an air chuck and using the carpenter's compressor to improvise a ghetto hopper, but the guy I was with grabbed a beat up old hand whisk broom, dipped it into some loose mud, shook it off, and then flicked mud up there. He was a little heavy with it, but when I did an area myself I found that it worked really well if you found the right distance. I love learning new sh!t.

(edit:  it wasn't so much flicking with the wrist, it was pulling the bristles back and letting them go)


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

When I have to do some kneeling on the floor at times, I'll have a rectangular sponge in my pocket, that I'll pull out and use to kneel on.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

JustMe said:


> When I have to do some kneeling on the floor at times, I'll have a rectangular sponge in my pocket, that I'll pull out and use to kneel on.


and who was going to call who a Sissy-saurus:jester:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> and who was going to call who a Sissy-saurus:jester:


So you remember that one, do you? 

I have a bone chip floating in my right knee - or at least I think it could be something like that. The thing doesn't hurt, but it likes to swell up some and get a little stiff if I kneel on it too much. Don't want to end up crippled with it down the road.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

did all hand and hawk finishers die?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> did all hand and hawk finishers die?


 Most of us just got old and went to tools cause we couldn't take the strain anymore


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

moore said:


> did all hand and hawk finishers die?



This IS the 21st century, you know.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

moore said:


> did all hand and hawk finishers die?


No...in fact, I just got rid of the hawk and use only hands. My hands are cracking pretty bad, and my touch-up looks like a$$.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> No...in fact, I just got rid of the hawk and use only hands. My hands are cracking pretty bad, and my touch-up looks like a$$.


 The winner !!!!!!!!!!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> This IS the 21st century, you know.


just the way i was taught guys . 3rd gen. drymudder. i learn lots here . my shoulders @ wrist are SHOT.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> No...in fact, I just got rid of the hawk and use only hands. My hands are cracking pretty bad, and my touch-up looks like a$$.


dr. zihms crack cream works great. what is touch-up?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

moore said:


> what is touch-up?


:thumbup: You know, it's that one spot you forgot to hit when you were doing your check-out after angles.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> dr. zihms crack cream works great. what is touch-up?


yeah,we need a glossary on here with all our slang terms:yes:
in our neck of the woods,it's when the painter primes a house,and he finds too much stuff to fix,so they say "you got too many TOUCH UPS to fix" and they send you back.Or if you repair anything when your doing finale sand with mud,then you might say"go back and sand any touch ups"


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> yeah,we need a glossary on here with all our slang terms:yes:


I nominate you


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> I nominate you


I nominate the captain:yes:
then he can make up new terms when ever he gets drinking:jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I nominate the captain:yes:
> then he can make up new terms when ever he gets drinking:jester:


 Man that would be like all the time!!!!!!!!! 

Heres one for ya,,, the Whidgadidja,,,,,


Ya know, like "I forgot my gun, you didn't bring yours, whidgadidja?"


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Man that would be like all the time!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Heres one for ya,,, the Whidgadidja,,,,,
> 
> ...


i am GOOD at what i do. with what i have to work with. materials / contractors, and homeowners who wont listen to reason till there is a problem. i know how to do the work! after 25 years i know how it works. with the proper terms or not. no offense capt. . :thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

i took my 7 year old daughter to a repair job . she calls it drymudding. it stuck with me.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> i am GOOD at what i do. with what i have to work with. materials / contractors, and homeowners who wont listen to reason till there is a problem. i know how to do the work! after 25 years i know how it works. with the proper terms or not. no offense capt. . :thumbsup:


 Relax man, wer'e just a bunch of old goats that ain't got anything better to do!!!!

Nothing wrong with the H&T, I still carry em on my truck, and when my hands and fingers get hurting from tools or knives, I brake em out for a change up,,,,,,,,

No matter HOW you do it, all that matters is how it looks when its painted,,, HINT -----> there ain't NO wrong way to do it RIGHT !!!!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

:thumbsup:


Capt-sheetrock said:


> Relax man, wer'e just a bunch of old goats that ain't got anything better to do!!!!
> 
> Nothing wrong with the H&T, I still carry em on my truck, and when my hands and fingers get hurting from tools or knives, I brake em out for a change up,,,,,,,,
> 
> No matter HOW you do it, all that matters is how it looks when its painted,,, HINT -----> there ain't NO wrong way to do it RIGHT !!!!


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

well her goes some of the tricks I know. I' semi- computer eliterate and typing, and I'm not great with words . Guess thats why I'm a drywaller. Dawn dish soap works good in toppings and it makes quick set , durabond,ect alot smoother coating. Next one . When pumping a large amount of mud through Mark 5 I level the mud in the barrel, I run my finger around the edge creating a trough, then pour enough water in trough to go all the way around perimeter of barrel. So when sprayer is pumping this trick creats a suchens so your mud sucks down the barrel evenly. also works with a hand pump , less scooping mud towards the pump.do any drywallers out there know how to walk a bucket. Pro form all purpose is the best texture mud I've used. It holds its consistancy better than other. Next trick I like to use a sponge to clean the mud on beads after you roll and wipe, ring a sponge and wipe bead gives it a nice clean look. .Well time for a break I'll think of some more. Drywall talk rocks


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> there ain't NO wrong way to do it RIGHT !!!!


:thumbup:


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## screwyardwork (Jan 26, 2011)

My new mixers i run in a bucket of water and black walnut shells.Smooths all the rough edges on the mixer,no more plastic in my mud.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

screwyardwork said:


> My new mixers i run in a bucket of water and black walnut shells.Smooths all the rough edges on the mixer,no more plastic in my mud.


That's interesting.


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## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

I'm gonna need a link to a walnut shell supplier.


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

Or you all could stop using old school mixers and start using the Goldblatt Easy Clean Mixer...


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Hmm Think I may give it a try.. got several large hickory tree's ,, see if it makes a difference on the mixers.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

betterdrywall said:


> Hmm Think I may give it a try.. got several large hickory tree's ,, see if it makes a difference on the mixers.


 Don't matter if you use hickory or walnut, just remember, if you end up with your nuts in a bunch,,, you asked for it !!!


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Not worried at all Captain,, seeing how my nuts are always bunched up anyway..


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