# Do you know what the hole in the stud is for?



## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

What is it for?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Strength ?


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

moore said:


> Strength ?


It is for 1 1/2" and 3/4" CRC (cold rolled channel) bridging to give additional stiffness for added span, or required lateral loading increases. Some assemblies that get rock only on one side will require bridging or strapping due to the composite nature of said assembly.

I've had Electricians tell me they are put there for them, and request I line up the holes above headers? I politely tell them to fawk off, and buy a stud punch, or unibit.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I've never dealt with metal studs Willy. I just threw a guess.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

moore said:


> I've never dealt with metal studs Willy. I just threw a guess.


No worries, i just thought it would be an interesting topic.

Most structural studding only has a 1 1/2" oval hole for only that size. Look at light gauge though, because most has both 3/4" and 1 1/2". And if it has a small hole at the bottom it is for tie wire to tie down the channel. First thing you teach an apprentice is holes down, or the stud is upside down.

When I was very young we built an extension to a high-rise. 2 story all metal stud construction hotel rooms for Hilton. After you weld for a month you start getting tired of it.


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Willys, have you ever used Spazzer for nonstructural partition walls?


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> Willys, have you ever used Spazzer for nonstructural partition walls?


Can you link it please?


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

I've used this on a few jobs. 
http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/bridging-bracing/spazzer-9200-bridging-bar-spzd


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I've used this on a few jobs.
> http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/bridging-bracing/spazzer-9200-bridging-bar-spzd


Don't do any steel anymore, but that's awesome.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> I've used this on a few jobs.
> http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/bridging-bracing/spazzer-9200-bridging-bar-spzd


I've never seen this, but it looks like a great product for light gauge.


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## nodnarb (Apr 25, 2014)

Black iron.

Edit: if youre gunna tell em first post this makes for an awfully short thread! http://m.clarkdietrich.com/products/bridging-bracing/spazzer-9200-bridging-bar-spzd looks like notched shiny 90 . Why didnt _I_ think of that. Hopefully see this on some jobs. Dont mind black iron but hate those damned clips and the sloppy guys I work with never can use those clips without bowing the studs and screwing up layout..


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

You do always line up the holes for electricians and for stiffeners.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

endo_alley said:


> You do always line up the holes for electricians and for stiffeners.


 When CRC is being used I would line up the holes, but never for sparky.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Around here you line up the holes, it would be harder to not line them up


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

chris said:


> Around here you line up the holes, it would be harder to not line them up


The cripple studs over a header you align for walls that don't get CRC? Not to mention in the SSMA manual it states the hole in the stud cannot be closer than 10" of its terminal end. This means that sometimes when from to a roof that varies you may have to cut off a foot to meet this requirement. See page 5.

http://www.ssma.com/filebin/pdf/SSMA_Product_Technical_Guide_2014.pdf


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Cripples and headers probably don't need the holes lined up. Use up your cut off pieces there. But on general layout, It sure looks amateur when they don't line up.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

endo_alley said:


> Cripples and headers probably don't need the holes lined up. Use up your cut off pieces there. But on general layout, It sure looks amateur when they don't line up.


 The hole in the stud cannot be any closer than 10" from the terminal end. Therefore, when framing walls to a roof above that varies in elevation it may become necessary to cut from both ends of the stud to meet the 10" rule. While you may think it looks amateur it is in fact meeting the requirements set forth and in effect very professional. Violating SSMA standards to make an electricians work easier is still a violation of the standard.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

MrWillys said:


> The hole in the stud cannot be any closer than 10" from the terminal end. Therefore, when framing walls to a roof above that varies in elevation it may become necessary to cut from both ends of the stud to meet the 10" rule. While you may think it looks amateur it is in fact meeting the requirements set forth and in effect very professional. Violating SSMA standards to make an electricians work easier is still a violation of the standard.


 How would you use stiffener ? Sounds like you just dont like sparkies, I have never been gigged for having the SLOT within ten inches of the top. Remember most on this site are workers . We all need to get along on the job. Please stop with all the copy and pasting


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

chris said:


> How would you use stiffener ? Sounds like you just dont like sparkies, I have never been gigged for having the SLOT within ten inches of the top. Remember most on this site are workers . We all need to get along on the job. Please stop with all the copy and pasting


Chris,
Copy and pasting what? I'm not trying to offend you, but inform you. I'm referring to walls without iron. The fact you never been called on it is great, but now you are aware. If we did put iron in a wall then maybe a web stiffener would be acceptable. Honestly, I'm sharing good insightful information with you and mean no harm.
I have no problem with sparky, but metal and labor is not cheap, and it takes extra time and material to align holes at cripples. It take a few seconds to punch a hole with a stud punch.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

MrWillys said:


> Chris,
> Copy and pasting what? I'm not trying to offend you, but inform you. I'm referring to walls without iron. The fact you never been called on it is great, but now you are aware. If we did put iron in a wall then maybe a web stiffener would be acceptable. Honestly, I'm sharing good insightful information with you and mean no harm.
> I have no problem with sparky, but metal and labor is not cheap, and it takes extra time and material to align holes at cripples. It take a few seconds to punch a hole with a stud punch.


 Not offended, just see it differently. If you always put the cut end of stud on bottom then it would not take anymore time on tall walls. It just comes across to me as one of those supers that make your job a pita


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Ya know like this:thumbsup:


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

I don't know if what I am saying is still pertinent to the argument, But the holes in studs tend to naturally line up if you always put the cut end on top. It doesn't take any longer. It just takes a little smarter. It looks so amateur when they don't.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Here's some food for thought. Let's say we have 500' of wall that needs to be 8'-4"? If we order 9's the hole will be closer than 10", so we cut off both ends to meet the 10" minimum requirement. Or, you can order them at 8'-4" if you have enough lead time, and they will come with holes at 2, 4, and 6 feet only.
I've done this for years were I order studs at 3' for soffits, and ask for them unpunched.


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## longhornbuilds (May 11, 2015)

bridging, grommets, cabling, etc..


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## Loudy (Mar 11, 2012)

We line them up for bridging but out of habit as well. Its along the same lines as making sure the sheathing stamps are oriented correctly on the exterior of the building. I think it looks more professional with the words Densglass (or whatever brand is spec.'d) are all right side up!

The Spazzer mentioned earlier is nice for keeping layout on tall demising walls too but it sucks of you have cut up walls. They now make a clip to help terminate it which is nice.


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