# Corner finishing problems



## rbdrywall0 (Mar 8, 2013)

I have been teaching myself the art of finishing with automatic taping tools and am having some problems with finishing corners with hockey box and plows. My tools were purchased used. I tape corners, roll them then wipe with 2" plow, next coat with hockey box and 3" plow. Last coat back to 2" plow with hockey box. The insides of corners turn out very nice. However, after 1st coat with hockey box and 3" plow on average about 60-70 % of my corners have an edge left by 3" plow. I haven't ventured to try adjusting blades on plow because I don't want to have to send it out to be fixed if I cant figure out how to get it right. So I feather that edge by hand. Any help would be a blessing!


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

Check out Columbia's videos on how to adjust the blades.https://www.youtube.com/user/ColumbiaTapingTools
Personally If I was going over my angles 3 times I would go 3" on tape, then 2 1/2" and finish with a 2". Lately I've been going 3 1/2", 3", 2 1/2", because GP toughrock has hideously high shoulders with grotesquely wide recesses.


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## rbdrywall0 (Mar 8, 2013)

Maybe my roller is robbing mud, but when I tape the 3" wont cover the tape with mud....you dont use a hockey box when taping do you?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

my corner flusher split


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

rbdrywall0 said:


> Maybe my roller is robbing mud, but when I tape the 3" wont cover the tape with mud....you dont use a hockey box when taping do you?


Have you ever put new bushings in your roller? That could be part of your problem with not enough mud. No I don't use a angle box when taping, always just a pole. I was taught the better job you do of rolling the better your angle head will work. If your getting bare tape maybe try making a 2nd roller pass to get more mud out. The older a roller gets the more finicky it will become. Instead of just rolling your angle you might have to give it a slight twist in each direction.


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## rbdrywall0 (Mar 8, 2013)

Mudslinger said:


> Have you ever put new bushings in your roller? That could be part of your problem with not enough mud. No I don't use a angle box when taping, always just a pole. I was taught the better job you do of rolling the better your angle head will work. If your getting bare tape maybe try making a 2nd roller pass to get more mud out. The older a roller gets the more finicky it will become. Instead of just rolling your angle you might have to give it a slight twist in each direction.


Brand new wheels! I guess I'll try adjusting my angle head:thumbsup: Thanks for the link


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

rbdrywall0 said:


> I have been teaching myself the art of finishing with automatic taping tools and am having some problems with finishing corners with hockey box and plows. My tools were purchased used. I tape corners, roll them then wipe with 2" plow, next coat with hockey box and 3" plow. Last coat back to 2" plow with hockey box. The insides of corners turn out very nice. However, after 1st coat with hockey box and 3" plow on average about 60-70 % of my corners have an edge left by 3" plow. I haven't ventured to try adjusting blades on plow because I don't want to have to send it out to be fixed if I cant figure out how to get it right. So I feather that edge by hand. Any help would be a blessing!


 If your 3" is leaving too much mud "hard-edge", IT IS BECAUSE YOUR 3" needs to be adjusted


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> If your 3" is leaving too much mud "hard-edge", IT IS BECAUSE YOUR 3" needs to be adjusted


If you bought the tools used as you say that is the likely culprit. Until you make the adjustment enjoy the extra sanding!


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## Deezal (Mar 9, 2013)

The way I do them is with the tube and "mouser" or 4- wheel corner applicator on the end of a tube. I always make sure my tapes are rolled on hard at first and I make sure I continue to flush out with the plow until no mud comes out when making my pass. Once more with the mouser and up one size on the plow again makeing sure i flush until the tool stays pretty much clean. Then all I do is take my 5" and skim off the outside edge touching the very inside only where I feel I need to( which is usually only a few spots in an average house) oh yeah and I lightly pole sand between each stage and after my skim sponge out.


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## DN Interiors (Mar 11, 2013)

*.*

I usually run out the mud with a tube, then flush with a 3" columbia flusher. I have a corner box, but I dont use it because it takes too many trips to the pump.
I find that most of my time sanding is spent on inside corners, so I run a quick second coat, then I feather the sides out by applying thin mud with a mini paint roller and wiping it with a knife attached to a retractable pole, I use a custom made elbow shaped pole to apply and wipe the mud on the ceiling -wall corners so I dont have to get on the stilts.
Its all faster then it sounds, and I get the time back when I sand.


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## Deezal (Mar 9, 2013)

Exact same as me ( the paint thing sounds more complicated but same theory as skimming) you are just running a mechanical flusher instead of the old snow plow like me. Plan on picking up the angle box soon, baker style step up works well for me to keep the pump and pail close.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

DN Interiors said:


> I usually run out the mud with a tube, then flush with a 3" columbia flusher. I have a corner box, but I dont use it because it takes too many trips to the pump.
> I find that most of my time sanding is spent on inside corners, so I run a quick second coat, then I feather the sides out by applying thin mud with a mini paint roller and wiping it with a knife attached to a retractable pole, I use a custom made elbow shaped pole to apply and wipe the mud on the ceiling -wall corners so I dont have to get on the stilts.
> Its all faster then it sounds, and I get the time back when I sand.


Sounds like you and Deezal are both indirect flushing.

Direct flushing/glazing is the angle head attached directly to the compound tube or angle box.

Indirect flushing/glazing is the mud applied with a compound tube and corner applicator (or lambs wool roller) followed by a angle head on a poll.

Maybe look at buying or testing a 3.5 angle head, could solve your sanding issues:yes:



Deezal said:


> Exact same as me ( the paint thing sounds more complicated but same theory as skimming) you are just running a mechanical flusher instead of the old snow plow like me. Plan on picking up the angle box soon, baker style step up works well for me to keep the pump and pail close.


Nothing wrong with your system, I do the same:thumbupfor flushing)

But, if you do get a angle box, they do work better with a mechanical head. They are faster, and it's debatable which will go farther(compound tube vs angle box), not going to knock the angle box, but lets face it, the dam thing hurts to run









The angle box is great in big open rooms at 8 foot high. But once you hit closets, high ceilings and so forth, the dam thing hurts. Ill admit the cp tube takes a bit longer, but not by much, maybe 15 minutes more on 5000 sq (easy).. I use to dread the angle box, it use to be "oh [email protected],,, got to corner flush today" Not so with the cp tube.

Not saying don't buy, just move it down your wish list:yes:


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## Deezal (Mar 9, 2013)

Mechanical heads are on top of list, thx for the advice but its still at the top. Have a 2.5, 3 and 3.5 direct flushers also, liked the time saved but found I was leaveing quite the ridge( I like to apply a lot of pressure and really get them tight)so i found myself going around after with the indirect on the head to flush it tighter anyways so I just said screw it and went back to the applicator head for spreading lol


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I have never felt the pain of an angle box, but I can sure see how they would hurt :yes:. Do yourself a favour and save up for a mudrunner, I look forward to doing angles. I know we only do the uprights 2 Buck, but it does not hurt.:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> I have never felt the pain of an angle box, but I can sure see how they would hurt :yes:. Do yourself a favour and save up for a mudrunner, I look forward to doing angles. I know we only do the uprights 2 Buck, but it does not hurt.:yes:


Two problems I have with the Mud runner, one is price and one needs explaining:yes:

If I have a mechanical angle head, and put it on a angle box, it will apply the mud tight. Now if I took the same angle head, weather it be a 2.5,3, or 3.5, and put it on the end of the compound tube, it makes a horrible mess, and applies the mud on really heavy.

So if I bought one, and it ran like a compound tube, I would be really pissed. Just one of those tools you would half to know a taper that has one, and test it. But they came out here in Banada listed at $1400, well a cp tube was around $200. And judging by these forums, I would say us Canucks are the biggest users of the compound tube, yet I don't see any Mud runners.

Can't remember why the compound tube applies the mud on so much compared to the angle box. My supply guy told me why, but I can't remember


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Get moose boy to send you his (I am sure he said that he has one). I am hearing you about the mechanical head and the C/P tube, I thied it and what a mess. But the runner just works :yes:. You can control the flow by giving it more throttle, hell you can even run it with no throttle to touch up a bad over lap or if you picked up some trash. But they are expensive I will give you that, I got mine from Allwall on special. It worked out about half local price at the time, form memory they were $1600 local and it cost me $800 delivered.


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## DrywallerDustin (Mar 1, 2013)

2buckcanuck said:


> Two problems I have with the Mud runner, one is price and one needs explaining:yes:
> 
> If I have a mechanical angle head, and put it on a angle box, it will apply the mud tight. Now if I took the same angle head, weather it be a 2.5,3, or 3.5, and put it on the end of the compound tube, it makes a horrible mess, and applies the mud on really heavy.
> 
> ...



Operator error?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> Get moose boy to send you his (I am sure he said that he has one). I am hearing you about the mechanical head and the C/P tube, I thied it and what a mess. But the runner just works :yes:. You can control the flow by giving it more throttle, hell you can even run it with no throttle to touch up a bad over lap or if you picked up some trash. But they are expensive I will give you that, I got mine from Allwall on special. It worked out about half local price at the time, form memory they were $1600 local and it cost me $800 delivered.


What, Moose boy has a Mud runner









That kid must chit money out of his A$$$$$$$$$$(Imagine how much more he could make if he rough sanded:jester

Well, maybe when Moose boy gets a chance, he can see if there is a difference between the two......I'm sure he owns a angle box,,,,, and a compound tube too:furious:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

DrywallerDustin said:


> Operator error?


Read post below











Deezal said:


> Mechanical heads are on top of list, thx for the advice but its still at the top. Have a 2.5, 3 and 3.5 direct flushers also, liked the time saved but found I was leaveing quite the ridge( I like to apply a lot of pressure and really get them tight)so i found myself going around after with the indirect on the head to flush it tighter anyways so I just said screw it and went back to the applicator head for spreading lol


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

gazman said:


> Get moose boy to send you his (I am sure he said that he has one). I am hearing you about the mechanical head and the C/P tube, I thied it and what a mess. But the runner just works :yes:. You can control the flow by giving it more throttle, hell you can even run it with no throttle to touch up a bad over lap or if you picked up some trash. But they are expensive I will give you that, I got mine from Allwall on special. It worked out about half local price at the time, form memory they were $1600 local and it cost me $800 delivered.


 
mudrunner we are finishing corners with it so fast lol


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> not going to knock the angle box, but lets face it, the dam thing hurts to run
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I use to call an anglebox the muscle maker until I started putting an extra cup of water in the bucket, thinning the mud makes all the difference, I've only used northstar heads on it except for when I tried the lightweight (plastic bodied) 3.5" Tapepro head, I found it easier to run on the anglebox than the Northstar, so maybe some heads run easier under pressure? (dunno)


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## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

*angles*



rbdrywall0 said:


> I have been teaching myself the art of finishing with automatic taping tools and am having some problems with finishing corners with hockey box and plows. My tools were purchased used. I tape corners, roll them then wipe with 2" plow, next coat with hockey box and 3" plow. Last coat back to 2" plow with hockey box. The insides of corners turn out very nice. However, after 1st coat with hockey box and 3" plow on average about 60-70 % of my corners have an edge left by 3" plow. I haven't ventured to try adjusting blades on plow because I don't want to have to send it out to be fixed if I cant figure out how to get it right. So I feather that edge by hand. Any help would be a blessing!


 your glaiser collapse into the recess and the plow blade run open and throw a 3/32 of mud on a piece of **** face paper made of recirculated newspaper facepaper. now what. fill the rececess by hand, its the only way man. usg and everyone else supply- too deep recess and too wide. i ben and gerying telling usg and the lot only recess on ONE side of the board for 30 years. they dont take my calls no more.


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