# All purpose mud all the time???



## CatD7 (Jul 25, 2011)

All purpose mud all the time??? Who uses all purpose (green or black to) all the time??? I always use durabond for my first coat.


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## gotmud (Mar 21, 2011)

CatD7 said:


> All purpose mud all the time??? Who uses all purpose (green or black to) all the time??? I always use durabond for my first coat.


I use usg AP (green lid) for everything, except for prefill and repairs. I used to finish with plus 3 for final coat, but Its too soft for me, jmo.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I tape seams and butts with 90 ..First coat on bead with 90 [if theres no heat] After that it's a/p ...I use to block in the seams and butts with hot mud ,,but found it was more trouble then it was worth.


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## wnybassman (May 9, 2008)

We prefill with Durabond 45 or 90 (brown bag) and then AP green top for everything after that. Seems to be the standard for around here.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

The tapers here will not tape with the usg a/p gray [lowe's] It's gummy and soft ..I've talked to a few d/c that tape with black top then use the green top for topping They say green top has a weak bond for taping...I wouldn't know ...I tape with hot mud ...I do know the green top [gray] a/p takes 3 times longer to dry compared to black top.. :yes:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

We tape with USG green lid, and block and skim with LaFarge Rapid Coat. The lafarge comes with a green lid, so technically we use all green lid! :whistling2: It says on the bucket that it's an all-purpose, but I wouldn't use it to tape. Also it sands very easy.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

lite weight taping mud for tape and paper stick beads. lite weight ap for the rest including hand tex. Mean green (green lid ap usg) is a good mud just find lite muds much more user friendly and the tapin mud is good stuff (tape only).


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## msd (Apr 10, 2011)

we use lafarge a/p to tape with lafarge rapid coat to block coat and lafarge deco 5 mud for finish


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I decided to mess with my program today. I'm usually a lightweight mud user, and I bought a box of standard weight AP today and threw it on. The job is a hand texture, so I knew if it came out too crappy I could touch it up and not have to spend a lot of time fixing it.

Definitely different than what I'm used to. It dries hard, and runs pretty smooth, but I found that no matter how hard I tried I couldn't pinch my edges the way I'm used to. It also wanted to fall off my hawk For some reason the light mud sticks better, even when it's runny-er. I like that I can touch up over top of it and know that when I sand I'll just be removing my touch-ups, but I don't think I'll be using this stuff again any time soon. It dries like a rock, so even scraping boogers off before coating angles was a chore. I'm sticking with lightweight mud.

Maybe this is slightly off-topic, but I didn't want to start a new thread.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I'll use ProRoc all purpose, but not Synko Lite Line. I wouldn't use it because of pretty well all the muds I have used, it's the worst for any purpose at all. It finishes horribly. Sands horribly. Smells horrid. 'nuff said.

I gotta say the ProRoc all purpose mud is nice to use for angles, the screw holes don't shrink back so bad. I just dislike the idea of using 3 different muds, so I just use lite joint.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

CatD7 said:


> All purpose mud all the time??? Who uses all purpose (green or black to) all the time??? I always use durabond for my first coat.


talk about everyone has a technique I have never masterd durabondo for first coat, yeah I know those are hard facts


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

My last house I used 7 different products. Proform black, red and blue (bought all my supplier had in stock.} Usg green and blue then ez 90 and quick set 90. Talk about a mixed bag. The things I did notice is the proform black dries the fastest and the lightweight muds are just too soft and dont completely dry.


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> talk about everyone has a technique I have never masterd durabondo for first coat, yeah I know those are hard facts


 Doing first coat with durabond is a bit tricky but once you figure it out its just like AP mud. I find a stainless steeel knifes works best. That and a scoop of AP mixed in. then when applicated keep in mind that its gonna swell. Keep it tight. Nothing like going to a jobsite and knowing in advance that everythings gonna be dry before ya get there.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

I tape with proform taping mud with mud max added..i prefill everything with ezsand 90 and hit the screws first coat with ez 90...and i 2end and third coat with proform machine mud..works well for me


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I would never spot a screw with hot mud.....It swells ..hot mud will not stick to metal ..bead,,screws etc... JMO!!!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The hot mud that you blokes have must be garbage. Our sticks like [email protected] to a blanket. Metal bead is the standard over here (dont know why, dont ask) I have never had one fail due to hot mud not sticking.:yes:

My theory is because hot mud accounts for the most sales here that is where the most R&D has gone.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I got to sand the regular weight AP today I had to lean on my pole, and it still took 3 times as long to brush down and then I just gave up:laughing: Hard as nails though, I had to chisel it out of the can lights near joints. I can see a use for it, but not on a regular basis. 

Now I know why some of you guys can get away with 80 grit:yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gazman said:


> The hot mud that you blokes have must be garbage. Our sticks like [email protected] to a blanket. Metal bead is the standard over here (dont know why, dont ask) I have never had one fail due to hot mud not sticking.:yes:
> 
> My theory is because hot mud accounts for the most sales here that is where the most R&D has gone.


 IT don't stick to metal here Gaz.. I could go through the list ,,but it would'nt matter ..I've tried them all ..they will not stick to metal !


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

gazman said:


> The hot mud that you blokes have must be garbage. Our sticks like [email protected] to a blanket. Metal bead is the standard over here (dont know why, dont ask) I have never had one fail due to hot mud not sticking.:yes:
> 
> My theory is because hot mud accounts for the most sales here that is where the most R&D has gone.


Our hot muds aren't that bad. I first coat everything except vinyl beads with hotmud and never have any issues. In my opinion sheetrock 90 bonds to metal and drywall just as good or better than all purpose.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

moore said:


> I would never spot a screw with hot mud.....It swells ..hot mud will not stick to metal ..bead,,screws etc... JMO!!!


 i mix mud max with it..


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

:no::no:


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

I love Proform black lid - all purpose for everything.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

moore said:


> IT don't stick to metal here Gaz.. I could go through the list ,,but it would'nt matter ..I've tried them all ..they will not stick to metal !


Not here my fine music lovin friend, it sticks like a teenager to a beaver during hormone season :whistling2:
I think it might be a case of different countries different products, the one good word I will put in for Winstone wallboards is the their "Tradeset" line of hot mud is good stuff, I use it to first coat everything except internal angles, I've tried Durabond and sheetrock easysand and they are different muds entirely to ours, our A/P muds are more similar to northern hemisphere.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

joepro0000 said:


> I love Proform black lid - all purpose for everything.


 She's A bitch to sand though !!!:yes:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> I decided to mess with my program today. I'm usually a lightweight mud user, and I bought a box of standard weight AP today and threw it on. The job is a hand texture, so I knew if it came out too crappy I could touch it up and not have to spend a lot of time fixing it.
> 
> Definitely different than what I'm used to. It dries hard, and runs pretty smooth, but I found that no matter how hard I tried I couldn't pinch my edges the way I'm used to. It also wanted to fall off my hawk For some reason the light mud sticks better, even when it's runny-er. I like that I can touch up over top of it and know that when I sand I'll just be removing my touch-ups, but I don't think I'll be using this stuff again any time soon. It dries like a rock, so even scraping boogers off before coating angles was a chore. I'm sticking with lightweight mud.
> 
> Maybe this is slightly off-topic, but I didn't want to start a new thread.


 slim this was EXACTLY my experience with the candycane beadex. i think it would be good for taping and maybe for coating steel bead but thats it. i don't ever want to sand a mud like that again.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> slim this was EXACTLY my experience with the candycane beadex. i think it would be good for taping and maybe for coating steel bead but thats it. i don't ever want to sand a mud like that again.


It's good to know the product exists, but I'm right there with you. All my swinging with the idiot stick only made the stuff shiny :laughing:


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