# The D-Mix.



## ycf dino (Feb 18, 2012)

Hi Guys.
Why we have to apply 3-4 coats when One coat of D-Mix can do the job?
Better and with no sanding required.

Imagine  not having to travel 50-60 miles,3-4 times to get the job done? Imagine the profits and how many jobs you can do with all the extra time?

My system combines all the benefits of Joint compount, veneer plaster,
skim coat, textras, real plaster and the same time eliminates all the associated problems with each on of them. 

I worked on the D-Mix for over 25 years and now I'm ready to guarantee the results and to provide ALL secrets to the trade.
Better to find few pro's and hold one day ( free seminar)
to finish a small house that I'm rebuilding.
If I can find few Pro's in NJ I wil provide one day training and the pro's can post pictures, videos and all the results here.

The D-mix can be mastered in a day.
I was thinking to market the method and all tools to the open market,
BUT...why not start a system that can benefit the pro's?
Training, tools and resources.
The Pro's will make the system better, invent better tools and ways,
share their knowlege with other pro's and life is good.

Details can be worked out. 
First, Let's see if we can find few finishers to spend one day?

ycf dino
eurekazone.


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## ycf dino (Feb 18, 2012)

*what makes d-mix easy?*

We all know that JC dries from Outside, creating a skin and cannot be reworked for more than few minutes. 

Other compounds like 30-45-60 minutes are drying from inside.
Veneer plasters are drying the same way and when the drying starts you only have few minutes to rework the plaster.

I don't think I can communicate the entire system in few posts and my time is very limited.
.
The benefit of controlled drying is that you can go back and make it to look like real plaster without the usual problems of other methods.
it can be renew and reworked with water,or another coat.

The results are a plaster like finish without the need for sanding.

thanks


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

ycf dino said:


> Hi Guys.
> Why we have to apply 3-4 coats when One coat of D-Mix can do the job?
> Better and with no sanding required.
> 
> ...


So I bit and googled "the D-mix", and different variations of it and the only thing I could find was this thread...how about a link...or do I just lose all faith...?


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## ycf dino (Feb 18, 2012)

getplastered said:


> So I bit and googled "the D-mix", and different variations of it and the only thing I could find was this thread...how about a link...or do I just lose all faith...?


try here.
the testing ground....

http://forums.finehomebuilding.com/forum

Newest *D*-*mix* worshipper | Breaktime


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Imagine  not having to travel 50-60 miles,3-4 times to get the job done? Ok fill me in. I have all the supplies needed. Plaster of paris, Pva primer, Joint compound. I also have a 6 and 10 inch Knife with a lambs wool roller. I have a 100 boards of fresh rock ready to go.


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## ycf dino (Feb 18, 2012)

boco said:


> Imagine  not having to travel 50-60 miles,3-4 times to get the job done? Ok fill me in. I have all the supplies needed. Plaster of paris, Pva primer, Joint compound. I also have a 6 and 10 inch Knife with a lambs wool roller. I have a 100 boards of fresh rock ready to go.


Bogo, NY?
better if you stop in Edison NJ.
I have a small house to finish, I stopped the contractor so we can do a good video with few Pro's. Like one day D-Mix seminar.

The lambs wool roller must be 100% genuine. very important.
Wet the roller before starting. SOAK IT!
Start with 3 Gallons JC. easier to mix.
1/2 gallon PVA primer.
mix for one minute.
----------------------------
Add 4 to 8 OZ of POP.
Mix for only 30 sec's- less than one minute
----------------------------------------------------
This is where the most important part comes into play.
I'm working an a special device to provide the perfect mix for each job. 
but you can start with the above ( the safe way for starters)
---------------------------------------------------------
roll the first section of 4x4. ( not perfect )
Roll the second section 4x4 next to the first.
Go back to the first section and make it even but not smooth...yet.
a quick pass and go to the next section...

now, you know how much time you need and how far you can go before you go back to make the wall super smooth.
every time you go back the finish gets better and better,
You can spray water or apply more d-mix to make it easier.
--------------------------------------------------------

Without any skin on the surface you can go as fast as you like or re-new
the mix with a spray bottle, wet sponge or d-mix,

You can master everything in few minutes if you stop in NJ.
Few easy tricks and you can finish a small house ( 2-3 guys) in one day. 
No sanding and no multiple trips.

To go over everything we need days behind the computer
or one hour in a seminar. 

thanks


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

OK. I will try your mix tomorrow. i have a few walls that recieve direct sunlight and could use a level 5 finish. I also have a magic trowel as well as the new 20" Advanced knife. Also thinking why mess with a roller when i have a mark V on site?


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## ycf dino (Feb 18, 2012)

boco said:


> OK. I will try your mix tomorrow. i have a few walls that recieve direct sunlight and could use a level 5 finish. I also have a magic trowel as well as the new 20" Advanced knife. Also thinking why mess with a roller when i have a mark V on site?


 
for first coat I always use fiberglass tape.
One heavy coat of d-mix with small roller and you can
apply the d-mix the same hour.

In time, you can do tape and finish the same time.
The idea is to eliminate multiple trips and sanding.

Me and 2 more guys we had the system under total control.
one guy with a roller.
one guy with a 9" trowel 
and the other guy with a spray bottle and 12-16" trowels.
a small house done in a day.

best part? $6.00-$9.00 per square feet to restore plaster walls.

good luck.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

ycf dino said:


> for first coat I always use fiberglass tape.
> One heavy coat of d-mix with small roller and you can
> apply the d-mix the same hour.
> 
> ...


hate to break your bubble , but you did not stumble on something new. Mixing plaster of paris in with your mud is old news. Those from the days of plaster know this trick. Your also incorporating the double up trick, as they did in plaster on the petty coat (slang could be wrong, Ds john can give proper term) :where you apply the 1st coat, and the rock begins to dry/suck on the mud. Then you go over it with a 2nd coat, which you can work over the 1st coat, to make it smooth so there's no need for sanding.

What I can't figure out is why your mixing paint with it. and as I sit here and type, and think about your method. Why don't you just go with veneer plaster. Your using all the same principals IMO.

And as I even think more (brains getting sore) I can achieve the same finish with sheet rock. just apply first layer with H&T, then double up on it with a second layer. And as it sets, mist it with water, and keep troweling as it sets, you can get a finish that needs no sanding............. OR!!!!!!!!!!!

Do what most guys would do on here (some guys) skim out the wall twice and give it a light sand. Each has their own method of doing this. One system leans more to a taping method (coat,dry,coat,dry sand) Well the other system leans more to a plaster method (coat,coat, then keep misting and stroking your work till it sets or your arms fall off, which ever comes 1st:whistling2


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> hate to break your bubble , but you did not stumble on something new. Mixing plaster of paris in with your mud is old news. Those from the days of plaster know this trick. Your also incorporating the double up trick, as they did in plaster on the petty coat (slang could be wrong, Ds john can give proper term) :where you apply the 1st coat, and the rock begins to dry/suck on the mud. Then you go over it with a 2nd coat, which you can work over the 1st coat, to make it smooth so there's no need for sanding.
> 
> What I can't figure out is why your mixing paint with it. and as I sit here and type, and think about your method. Why don't you just go with veneer plaster. Your using all the same principals IMO.
> 
> ...


Agreed!! :thumbup:
Screw this noise. I'll go work out at the gym if I want my arms to fall off after a days work.


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## ycf dino (Feb 18, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> hate to break your bubble , but you did not stumble on something new. Mixing plaster of paris in with your mud is old news. Those from the days of plaster know this trick. Your also incorporating the double up trick, as they did in plaster on the petty coat (slang could be wrong, Ds john can give proper term) :where you apply the 1st coat, and the rock begins to dry/suck on the mud. Then you go over it with a 2nd coat, which you can work over the 1st coat, to make it smooth so there's no need for sanding.
> 
> What I can't figure out is why your mixing paint with it. and as I sit here and type, and think about your method. Why don't you just go with veneer plaster. Your using all the same principals IMO.
> 
> ...


There is no bubble to break. Only money to make.

venner plaster is not easy to work with...
big mess and you need high skills.
I use veneer plaster for few years. nice stuff but hard to work with.

Yes, the d-mix incorporates some plastering technics, some venner plastering methods and some skim coat know how.

The big difference is that all the above require high skills 
and they have few problems.
a, real plaster is heavy and hard to work with...for most finishers.
Plastering is an art and I don't think the new finishers are going to learn real plastering.

b, veneer plaster requires perfection in all faces.,,like the plaster.
Dries from inside and you have limited time to work with it,

c. skim coats don't allow any reworking after few minutes.
the jC dries from outside and the skin is formed very fast.

The D-Mix in the other hand ( after you use it few times) has none of the above "problems" because cures uniform and allows you to re-new the mix at demand.
Very forgiving and the finish is very close to real plaster.

Not as hard as the veneer plaster and real plaster but strong enough for all applications.

Let;s take all the above ways,
The D-mix combines most benefits of all the above without any of their problems. 
The finish a is there, Much better than normal 5 level finish.
The feeling of venner and plastering is there. Equal but not better than real plaster. better than veneer plaster.
what makes it to work is practice and nailing down the right amount of JC, POP and primer. The primer delays the drying and provides a better finish, allowing more reworking without any problems.

One day, 3 guys crew can easily finish a small 1300-1500 sq, feet house. the benefits are ( few days?) that you don't have to wait between coats. 

I understand that it may sound like a joke but the only easy money that I made from construction was d-mix money.

thanks.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

ycf dino said:


> There is no bubble to break. Only money to make.
> 
> venner plaster is not easy to work with...
> big mess and you need high skills.
> ...


Actually, I won't knock your method, it would work. I would chalk it up to a each his own method, maybe you found a middle ground system between plaster and taping. But when I read your mixture, I realized you were not off the wall, or talking crazy.

but even so, it still is talent based, if I'm wrong, then painters would never get work:whistling2:

A good selling place for your method would be reno's or basements. The no dust factor, when dealing with home owners. We thought the veneer plaster would be good for that. But the installation off the drywall they want you to use, and the use of the router, were a big no no,,,,,,,, mega dust, worse than taping:furious:


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