# Skim coat plaster with durabond 90



## tybomb (Oct 15, 2012)

I'm rennovating an old Victorian house and have just scraped off wallpaper in one of the rooms. The walls are plaster and there are some cracks some hairline and some an inch wide with a few places that open up to about the size of a mouse pad. Also a couple of the corners had crumbled and are now dug out with trenches about an inch wide.
I was told that Durabond 90 is the best for plaster even though I don't see a lot of youtube videos showing Durabond being spread on a plaster wall. (maybe it has a differen't name in other countries?).

I went to the hardware store the guy their told me that Durabond 90 will work great and to just fill the cracks with it and skim coat. I asked him if I should wet the wall or tape anything and he said no. In fact I think he said that I can't put tape down with Durabond. Then I asked about sanding in case I can't get a decent enough finish and he said I could then skim coat another product over top and sand and if I did that I could tape over top of the Durabond with fibre tape and this second layer of joint compoind or whatever it was (can't remember the name of it off hand).

I'm a little suspicious of his instructions. I really don't have to do any prep work other then vaccuming the cracks etc? Dont' need to wet the wall? I can't tape the cracks with fibre tape and durabond and then skim coat with more durabond? How can I tape after the durabond is on and dried and the cracks are no longer visable? :blink:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

tybomb said:


> I'm rennovating an old Victorian house and have just scraped off wallpaper in one of the rooms. The walls are plaster and there are some cracks some hairline and some an inch wide with a few places that open up to about the size of a mouse pad. Also a couple of the corners had crumbled and are now dug out with trenches about an inch wide.
> I was told that Durabond 90 is the best for plaster even though I don't see a lot of youtube videos showing Durabond being spread on a plaster wall. (maybe it has a differen't name in other countries?).
> 
> I went to the hardware store the guy their told me that Durabond 90 will work great and to just fill the cracks with it and skim coat. I asked him if I should wet the wall or tape anything and he said no. In fact I think he said that I can't put tape down with Durabond. Then I asked about sanding in case I can't get a decent enough finish and he said I could then skim coat another product over top and sand and if I did that I could tape over top of the Durabond with fibre tape and this second layer of joint compoind or whatever it was (can't remember the name of it off hand).
> ...


If it is the old brown bag durabond then it is a good bit stronger than the quickset mud they offer now. I would not take his advice however. You need to tape all visible cracks with any type of tape (I would prefer fibafuse). Then you can skim the wall out with durabond. I do agree that you will need to skim the wall again with an air drying mud as you are going to catch hell trying to sand that brown bag durabond.


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## tybomb (Oct 15, 2012)

OK great. I thought the same thing but this guy seemed pretty sure of himself. 
Should I be wetting down the cracks or is that not necessary with Durabond?

Also, if I use fibafuse do I patch the cracks with durabond first and then wait until it's dry and then embed the tape and skim coat or do I fill the crack and tape all in one shot and then skim coat?


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## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Fibafuse also makes 3' wide rolls for just your situation instead of taping individual cracks you reinforce the whole wall preventing future cracking


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

saskataper said:


> Fibafuse also makes 3' wide rolls for just your situation instead of taping individual cracks you reinforce the whole wall preventing future cracking


True but it may not be cost effective for him to do that. If it is just a few certain cracks then taping them individually will be just fine. No need to use the rolls unless it is severely spider cracking.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Don't need to wet the plaster, infact if you wet then immediately apply any fast setting compound, you're trapping the moisture and will have to let the compound set longer before scrapping. If teh plaster is loose and coming away from the lathe, you should probable use some plaster washers and screws to suck it back to the wall. 










Don't use a mesh tape, cracks will reappear a few years down the road... I've done this in my 1920's home a few times now :whistling2:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

If you've got big gaps, fill them with Hamilton's Ultra-Fill. If you've got big cracks, tape them with Fiba-Fuse. Add glue to your set-mud...no matter what it is, glue makes it better:thumbsup:, and will help it stick to paint.

Once you've got everything put back together, skim with your favorite topping, sand, texture (or not), paint, done.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm with slim on this one. you first need to fill and level everything with a setting type mud. a re-enforced one like ultrafill or confill would be best but if you don't have that just use a stiff mix of durabond.i also second that there is no need to wet any of the cracks. once it is level you can then proceed to tape it like any other wall. i would go with paper or fibafuse ,but if you must go with mesh at least use durabond to imbed it with.

oh yeah and the more glue you add to the fill and tape coat the better. just white carpenters glue. i thin it with water before i even mix it in.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> i'm with slim on this one. you first need to fill and level everything with a setting type mud. a re-enforced one like ultrafill or confill would be best but if you don't have that just use a stiff mix of durabond.i also second that there is no need to wet any of the cracks. once it is level you can then proceed to tape it like any other wall. i would go with paper or fibafuse ,but if you must go with mesh at least use durabond to imbed it with.
> 
> oh yeah and the more glue you add to the fill and tape coat the better. just white carpenters glue. i thin it with water before i even mix it in.


We used Durabond for Skim Coating textured ceilings. Durabond basecoat +3 topcoat. Smooth and seamless. No mess of demo no cost of new drywall. Visit my website to see more. www.HomesteadServicesLLC.com 

Best wishes


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> We used Durabond for Skim Coating textured ceilings. Durabond basecoat +3 topcoat. Smooth and seamless. No mess of demo no cost of new drywall. Visit my website to see more. www.HomesteadServicesLLC.com
> 
> Best wishes


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

For plaster, use plaster weld for adhesion, then you have to use either fiber fuse or mesh to tape all the cracks, then mix veneer plaster and plaster the entire area with new plaster.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

fenez said:


> For plaster, use plaster weld for adhesion, then you have to use either fiber fuse or mesh to tape all the cracks, then mix veneer plaster and plaster the entire area with new plaster.


Use plaster Weld for cement plaster. Durabond Has A bonding agent added to it. Read the ingredients on the bag. For semi gloss painted walls or ceilings Prime first.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Use plaster Weld for cement plaster. Durabond Has A bonding agent added to it. Read the ingredients on the bag. For semi gloss painted walls or ceilings Prime first.


I would never use dura bond over plaster, it takes a lot longer. I would just veneer plaster the whole thing because it's much quicker.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

fenez said:


> I would never use dura bond over plaster, it takes a lot longer. I would just veneer plaster the whole thing because it's much quicker.


Takes a lot longer? Veneer plaster ( lime & gauging) Takes 20 to 30 days to completely dry to paint. Durabond 90 sets fast topping takes a day. Lightly sand with a light And you're ready for primer and paint.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

Not lime and gauging, veneer, mix it in a bucket and trowel it on then double back and burnish it.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

fenez said:


> Not lime and gauging, veneer, mix it in a bucket and trowel it on then double back and burnish it.


Never have been a fan of one coat Veneer systems. A good base coat fills and smooths out All imperfections. And the topcoat goes on tight and smooth. Solid results, satisfaction guaranteed.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

I have done loads of this kind of work!!
First i would get anything loose ot cracked digged out!
Then get urself a bag of 1 coat plaster,wet every crack,hole u have 2 fill!
And i mean wet it! Then fill everything up and u can play about with it for a while putting on a bit more if u need it!
Get what is looking good 2 u and then after it sets,get a roll of paper tape(Dont use mesh as it will crack in time as i have tried both methods)
Tape up the cracks with paper and skim on! It will b just fine!
And if there is loose plaster that looks like the hole will take down the hole wall,dig a patch a foot or so wide and mix up some thin 1 coat plaster and throw it at the hole so u r getting some under it and its sorted after set! Mabybe still week under the rest of the lath but it will hold for years 2 come!:thumbsup:
Sh*t that was a long post,Time for a beer!


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

VANMAN said:


> I have done loads of this kind of work!!
> First i would get anything loose ot cracked digged out!
> Then get urself a bag of 1 coat plaster,wet every crack,hole u have 2 fill!
> And i mean wet it! Then fill everything up and u can play about with it for a while putting on a bit more if u need it!
> ...


To each is his own way. As long as it's solid and looks good. You get paid. The mud you use is where the strength comes from not the tape. Yes I am a fan of mesh tape. Cheers.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fenez said:


> Not lime and gauging, veneer, mix it in a bucket and trowel it on then double back and burnish it.


I was waiting for you to defend Veneer plasters honour:thumbsup:



Mr.Brightstar said:


> The mud you use is where the strength comes from not the tape. Yes I am a fan of mesh tape. Cheers.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> The mud you use is where the strength comes from not the tape. Yes I am a fan of mesh tape. Cheers.


Yeah, Right, So save yourself some work and money, If tapes got no strength just use mud, No tape then. :thumbsup:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

cazna said:


> Yeah, Right, So save yourself some work and money, If tapes got no strength just use mud, No tape then. :thumbsup:


All the tape does is prevent a crack from coming to the surface. Mesh tape works just fine If you use a setting type mud as a base coat. If you don't think there's not any difference in the strength of mud you use Go ahead and do A heavy fill with some +3 topping.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Good luck my friend, Heres some light reading for you. 

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/paper-mesh-48/


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

cazna said:


> Good luck my friend, Heres some light reading for you.
> 
> http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/paper-mesh-48/


The great debate continues. It seems more and more people are using mesh tape for there flat work.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> The great debate continues. It seems more and more people are using mesh tape for there flat work.


 Why mesh just for the seams???? Why not use it EVERYWHERE!!!!


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I was waiting for you to defend Veneer plasters honour:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> I do a fair amount of plastering, maybe 20 to 30 percent of my overall work yearly. I have had very good results with plaster, both veneer and
> ...


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Skim coating over textured ceiling. Used Dura bond as a base coat to fill Sometimes Doubleback crossed hatch. Then topcoat with any type of topping. Don't try to mop or sand Dura bond.


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## tybomb (Oct 15, 2012)

The Durabond 90 works great. Everything is solid as a rock now and fairly smooth. I can see now that it's never going to be perfect with Durabond only though. You can sand a ridge for 10 minutes and all your really doing is polishing it. 

So what's the easiest and cheapest way to go as far as a top coat? Can I basically put anything on top now? I just need something cheap and easy to sand.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

tybomb said:


> The Durabond 90 works great. Everything is solid as a rock now and fairly smooth. I can see now that it's never going to be perfect with Durabond only though. You can sand a ridge for 10 minutes and all your really doing is polishing it.
> 
> So what's the easiest and cheapest way to go as far as a top coat? Can I basically put anything on top now? I just need something cheap and easy to sand.


Any topping will work whatever you perfu. Sand with a light. Smooth and seamless.


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## tybomb (Oct 15, 2012)

My friend suggested CGC machine mud ready mixed. He's never used Durabond 90 before though so I hope there's not a problem.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

tybomb said:


> My friend suggested CGC machine mud ready mixed. He's never used Durabond 90 before though so I hope there's not a problem.


If it's a topping on top of durabond you'll be fine. Don't waste your time trying to sand Durabond Trowel it flat and fill any heavy areas then top coat of topping.


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## CatD7 (Jul 25, 2011)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> If it's a topping on top of durabond you'll be fine. Don't waste your time trying to sand Durabond Trowel it flat and fill any heavy areas then top coat of topping.


 
Sandin durabond is like trying to sand concrete.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Havent been checking in much guys--busy--- heres my advice-- I live in an old New England town with plenty of homes that are 200yrs old plus-- when the plaster is no longer sound[falling away from lath] thats when you determine to remove or overlay--- when still sound but cracked- you can very well go the durabond route[we roll the first coat as a foundation] of course after taping all bad cracks- then proceed with usually 3 skims of green top usg mud and sand with a PC, your best alternative is to check into a system called NU-WALL ,Ive done this in Libraries,schools , commercial bldgs, and dozens of residential homes with excellent results. I have to do about 8 rooms in the oldest home in town beginning in March[they raised the home and put new foundation in] thus cracking all the walls and ceilings, they give you a video to explain,but if you can paint than you can handle this------ and I found that for a smooth finish[instead of fine stipple] go over it with their finish[3600] or 1 skim of USG PLUS 3 .Again one of these days I,ll videotape or add photos ,,,really


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> Havent been checking in much guys--busy--- heres my advice-- I live in an old New England town with plenty of homes that are 200yrs old plus-- when the plaster is no longer sound[falling away from lath] thats when you determine to remove or overlay--- when still sound but cracked- you can very well go the durabond route[we roll the first coat as a foundation] of course after taping all bad cracks- then proceed with usually 3 skims of green top usg mud and sand with a PC, your best alternative is to check into a system called NU-WALL ,Ive done this in Libraries,schools , commercial bldgs, and dozens of residential homes with excellent results. I have to do about 8 rooms in the oldest home in town beginning in March[they raised the home and put new foundation in] thus cracking all the walls and ceilings, they give you a video to explain,but if you can paint than you can handle this------ and I found that for a smooth finish[instead of fine stipple] go over it with their finish[3600] or 1 skim of USG PLUS 3 .Again one of these days I,ll videotape or add photos ,,,really


I just watched the video on the Nu-Wall product....very interesting. Thanks for the post. Yet another idea for the mental toolbox and the numerous plaster repairs I'm asked to do.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

DSJOHN said:


> Havent been checking in much guys--busy--- heres my advice-- I live in an old New England town with plenty of homes that are 200yrs old plus-- when the plaster is no longer sound[falling away from lath] thats when you determine to remove or overlay--- when still sound but cracked- you can very well go the durabond route[we roll the first coat as a foundation] of course after taping all bad cracks- then proceed with usually 3 skims of green top usg mud and sand with a PC, your best alternative is to check into a system called NU-WALL ,Ive done this in Libraries,schools , commercial bldgs, and dozens of residential homes with excellent results. I have to do about 8 rooms in the oldest home in town beginning in March[they raised the home and put new foundation in] thus cracking all the walls and ceilings, they give you a video to explain,but if you can paint than you can handle this------ and I found that for a smooth finish[instead of fine stipple] go over it with their finish[3600] or 1 skim of USG PLUS 3 .Again one of these days I,ll videotape or add photos ,,,really


 The magic of Durabond molding plaster and lime main ingredients with a bonding agent added.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Why mesh just for the seams???? Why not use it EVERYWHERE!!!!


Walked through an incomplete house to bid the rest of the sheetrock for one of our builders and everything had been mesh taped. The work looked good actually, but there were cracks everywhere. Paper will always be superior to mesh.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> The magic of Durabond molding plaster and lime main ingredients with a bonding agent added.


:whistling2:Very true, but if you have never tried a product how can you stick to "my way is the only?" You can also purchase the 4ft x 120ft roll of fiberglass mat material and apply to the plaster with durabond[ive done this numerous times] make your mix wet and apply with roller,than apply over top to imbed with knife or trowel----- any of you guys doing plaster repair work should invest in their small roll[40ft] and try it , you,ll wish you knew this years ago-- 33yrs of plaster and drywall, ive tried many ways and products-- I,ll let you know my opinion on the ones I hate the ones that I give thumbs up to!!!!!:thumbup:You,ll also realize when you need to patch around an outlet or small crack it works pretty much like fibafuse[I think better]:thumbsup:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

DSJOHN said:


> :whistling2:Very true, but if you have never tried a product how can you stick to "my way is the only?" You can also purchase the 4ft x 120ft roll of fiberglass mat material and apply to the plaster with durabond[ive done this numerous times] make your mix wet and apply with roller,than apply over top to imbed with knife or trowel----- any of you guys doing plaster repair work should invest in their small roll[40ft] and try it , you,ll wish you knew this years ago-- 33yrs of plaster and drywall, ive tried many ways and products-- I,ll let you know my opinion on the ones I hate the ones that I give thumbs up to!!!!!:thumbup:You,ll also realize when you need to patch around an outlet or small crack it works pretty much like fibafuse:thumbsup:


Yes I thought I was the only one who used e f I s mesh for skim coating. . And we hawk and trowel all are work. Mud pans are unnatural to us We mainly do traditional wet Plastering. As long as the final product looks good And is rock solid nobody's wrong. Cheers


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