# Light for light checking



## Mudshark

Just wondering what everyone is using for lightchecking.

Have been using the simple old trouble light with guard removed with bare bulb. used 100 watt bulbs as well as 60 watt bulbs (whatever is cheap as they do break eventually) Seen other rigs with clamp to attach to bench or whatever and lights with shields on one side.

Welcome a discussion here as I don't mind investing in a better light as mine is paid for and an upgrade shouldn't break my tool budget.


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## Saul_Surfaces

I use a fluorescent trouble light. Find it stands up a lot better than the incandescent bulb. Easier to get the dust off too.


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## Bevelation

Bare 100 watter for me. Only problem for me is I can't manage the cord very well doing tops sometimes and it slows me down.


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## Kiwiman

500 watter for me, if you don't mind third degree burns and temporary blindness from time to time.


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## cazna

Using 150 watt, easy on the eyes but it only covers a smaller area at a time. Sometimes i go back at night with the light to check over things. It works very well and i can pick up everything. Its one of those lights on a stand with the long skinny bulb, i just carry it around, works great.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Personally I use a Bud Light :jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock

FOR THOSE ABOUT said:


> Personally I use a Bud Light :jester:


Thanks for keeping it real,,,, I wonder somtimes about these new guys,,,,, KIDS TODAY !!!


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

Yea Capt sometimes I dont know whether to scratch my watch or wind my head


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## DSJOHN

Do you guys find it hard in the morning. JOHN,,,,,, [getting out of bed]


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## Capt-sheetrock

DSJOHN said:


> Do you guys find it hard in the morning. JOHN,,,,,, [getting out of bed]


Naw, but I did tell my sweetie (after seeing the doc) that If I had an erection that lasted more than 4 hours, I wasn't the one that was gonna need to contact a doctor,,,

That count???:thumbup:


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## DSJOHN

You funny bastard,,,,, JOHN


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

DSJOHN said:


> Do you guys find it hard in the morning. JOHN,,,,,,
> 
> Hopefully...if not I must be dead


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## Kiwiman

:huh: I thought an erection was something the Japanese held when voting in a new government.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT

AHHH...Happy Hour only 2 hour...you go now:jester:


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## DSJOHN

that was said after the third scorpion bowl? JOHN


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## Mudshark

*Back to Lights*



Saul_Surfaces said:


> I use a fluorescent trouble light. Find it stands up a lot better than the incandescent bulb. Easier to get the dust off too.


So do you still see the scratches on drywall the same with the fluorescent? We know it to be tougher.


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## Saul_Surfaces

Its easy to wipe the dust off the plastic lens on the fluorescent, which keeps the light consistent. I found the incandescent would get dust covered over time and continually dimmer until I could wipe it off. And I get tired of breaking bulbs. In any case my customers end up happy.


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## silverstilts

I have a couple of 400 watt metal halide wobble lights that work good and light up a very large area, but when sanding the best I have found was just a plain 300 watt clear bulb that i screw into a treble light without the aluminum guard just the socket fastened to a make shift handle. I use to use an old light stand that came out of a doctors office that had a base with the adjustable height pole and flexible conduit on the top worked really well. A good 300 watt incandescent bulb will show any imperfections when held up against wall or ceiling. Anything less than that is not bright enough. Back to the wobble light pretty much indestructible depending on where you buy the bulbs anywheres from 28 to 65 bucks but they will last for years unless they take a direct hit hard from something.


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## 2buckcanuck

*Super Bright Rechargeable 60+9 LED Cordless Work Light last for 4 hours
*


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## Mudstar

I don't use a light and have no issues. Proper application and sanding is all it takes.

Why you all using a light? 

Someone skipping something along the way here?

Get back to work you slackers!


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## PrairrieDogExpress

Mudstar said:


> I don't use a light and have no issues. Proper application and sanding is all it takes.
> 
> Why you all using a light?
> 
> Someone skipping something along the way here?
> 
> Get back to work you slackers!


I dare you to go through with a light after your done just to see if you missed anything.  You'd be surprised what you miss without one. The light just creates shadows so you can see the small scratches ect. that you cant get with the naked eye.


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## cazna

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> I dare you to go through with a light after your done just to see if you missed anything.  You'd be surprised what you miss without one. The light just creates shadows so you can see the small scratches ect. that you cant get with the naked eye.


 
Thats right, So its everyone for a light and PDE against?? I wonder if we are all wrong and PDE is the only one in the world who does not check up on there work becouse its not needed??


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## Mudstar

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> I dare you to go through with a light after your done just to see if you missed anything.  You'd be surprised what you miss without one. The light just creates shadows so you can see the small scratches ect. that you cant get with the naked eye.


Well I coat my wall more times and tighter then most and sand with a minimum 180 grit paper between coats then most. 

All you 2 coat wonder tapers have no choice but to go over your work with a light to touch up spots that need be where that third and forth coat on butts and beads that should have been done in the first place takes care of this issues. 

My final sand has no too very little scratches and if your seeing scratches in your work then I'd say your using to coarse of paper.

All my work is inspected by painter when he puts the prime on the wall any scratches created by trim or other trades is not an issue of mine and they know that. 

If your touching up dings and scratches from others for free then your taking money out of your own pocket. 


JS


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## PrairrieDogExpress

cazna said:


> Thats right, So its everyone for a light and PDE against?? I wonder if we are all wrong and PDE is the only one in the world who does not check up on there work becouse its not needed??


No I was saying that it is necessary to use a light.


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## PrairrieDogExpress

"All you 2 coat wonder tapers have no choice but to go over your work with a light to touch up spots that need be where that third and forth coat on butts and beads that should have been done in the first place takes care of this issues. "

My apologies. You are the man.


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## Mudstar

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> No I was saying that it is necessary to use a light.



necessary if you jump ahead of the work that should have done before you moved on to the next wall


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## PrairrieDogExpress

Mudstar said:


> necessary if you jump ahead of the work that should have done before you moved on to the next wall


Not everyone is as amazing as you so I'm saying for the AVERAGE taper a light is a good idea. But thats just my .02.


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## Mudstar

Amazing might be an over statement but I do know that most tapers skip or try to do it in less steps then suggested by the manufacture and end up having to go over there work because of that.

That's why I say that jumping ahead really gains no time or quality because going over work with a light takes more time then putting that third or forth coat on. 

Unless you like looking for a needle in that hay stack I'd rather see someone skim it tight again. It guarantees your quality and coverage is not lumpy because of touching up.


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## 2buckcanuck

man if I could coat something once and check it with a light and get away with it (acceptable work) plus get paid for it,I would!!
coating things more than you need to sounds like more time and extra cost to me.I do 10 ,12 and skim that by hand in common areas (not closets etc) and still check that with a light.do I find a lot when I check with a light? no, but my name is on the line so I do it
Plus its a lot faster to check with a light than to put a extra coat on every thing,she's a business not a hobby "get her done" money money money


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## taper71

Mudstar said:


> Amazing might be an over statement but I do know that most tapers skip or try to do it in less steps then suggested by the manufacture and end up having to go over there work because of that.
> 
> That's why I say that jumping ahead really gains no time or quality because going over work with a light takes more time then putting that third or forth coat on.
> 
> Unless you like looking for a needle in that hay stack I'd rather see someone skim it tight again. It guarantees your quality and coverage is not lumpy because of touching up.


 
Sorry but I have to call BS on this. There is no way I could put a 3rd and 4th coat on in less time that it takes to light out ( I use a 100watt halogen ) and touch up after prime. I do not care how good anyone thinks they are - everybody misses stuff even if you are doing more than 2 coats. ( just some less than others. ) 
The time of day when you are sanding , if its cloudy, sunny , or partially sunny, windows etc... all plays a factor in sanding. A tiny pebble that your paper picked up while pole sanding will cause a scratch that you will not see unless you put a light to the wall. The dust from sanding that falls into little dimples and covers up scratches that you cant see until the prime is on. The people that dont use a light around here still do a fairly decent job its just the painters do alot more touch ups, or the building sups just cant see it and aren t looking for it.
Drywall quality is different all over the country and from taper to taper. I personally went around and compared my 2 coats with another tapers 3 coats. In multiple houses . There was no difference except I drove a nicer truck and made alot more money than him.


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## tricounty dwall

i have to agree with taper. And plus when the painter primes and u go back and check it with a light u will find stuff. I dont care how long u have been doing it or how good u are. U might think u are the best but when u put a light on it u will be surprised. A 500 watt halogen is a finishers worst friend. But it needs to be done POINT BLANK:yes:


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## cazna

Twin 500 watts on a stand are my thing now, rise the stand up for ceilings and put it against the wall with one up and one down to cover a large area, its got enough power to beat the sunlight. Its good to check your work but its the scratches and chips/dents in the board that can show up too, depends how rough the board has been handled, sometimes its beatin up quite bad.


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## tricounty dwall

:thumbsup: i use to do the same with the twins on a stand, but my stands kept getting broke and i got tired of buying them. And yes u also have factory defects also, dents dings grooves. Lately ive seen a lot of factory grooves in the stretch board


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## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> man if I could coat something once and check it with a light and get away with it (acceptable work) plus get paid for it,I would!!
> coating things more than you need to sounds like more time and extra cost to me.I do 10 ,12 and skim that by hand in common areas (not closets etc) and still check that with a light.do I find a lot when I check with a light? no, but my name is on the line so I do it
> Plus its a lot faster to check with a light than to put a extra coat on every thing,she's a business not a hobby "get her done" money money money


Hey Man, you say you skim by hand, i have just done a lot of that, but rolled it then troweled it off, works great, perfect level 5, my next house is all hanging and wall lights, no down lights and has critical sunlight so i was going to get a level 2nd coat then skim it all for the third a think it will come up perfect, interesting to hear someone else doing the same kind of thing.


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## cazna

tricounty dwall said:


> :thumbsup: i use to do the same with the twins on a stand, but my stands kept getting broke and i got tired of buying them. And yes u also have factory defects also, dents dings grooves. Lately ive seen a lot of factory grooves in the stretch board


We have had some strange factory marks too, big areas of it, kinda like the paper is stuck on plaster thats been stood up and hose with water and gone streaky in patches, dont see it till its painted and sun or light hits it at the right angle.

Seems like we all trying to get the perfect finish with completly un perfect materials, bit of a mission impossable but try to tell the home owner that, you sound like an un confident fool, and if the owner/builders loses confidence in you then your stuffed, Mr Bullsh!t then comes along and gets the work, Better to say its all good and nothings a problem and deal with things quietly yourself as you need to.:thumbsup:


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## Capt-sheetrock

I've been doing this since 1973. I use a light to check my stuff, cause even tho I'm the BEST finisher that has ever lived,,, the light shows me stuff that I missed.

And we ALL know that the HO or the GC doesn't understand that the dimples that came in the rock THEY bought, is not really our problem. 

And after this long time,, I have come to realize that I am not the HOT-ROD that I once thought that i was.:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck

yeah cazna
we just hawk and trowel sunshine walls ,painted ceilings stair wells, what we call common areas in canuck land ,played with a roller a bit ,what mil are you using ? see every one talking level 5 jobs on here,I see level 5 coming our way (wont let us use nail spotters) if I had to go level 5 ,I was thinking (guessing) you could maybe roll a wall with out troweling (wiping) and only 2 coats on screws , just wondering ,and i think i went off topic here on this thread ,what u think cazna or anyone?


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## cazna

I started i thread on this as i was a bit stuck on what to do but sorted it myself.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/level-5-spraying-mud-1282/?highlight=Level+Spraying

I found it worked better than i could have dreamed of, I used a 16mm lambs wool roller 360mm wide with a huge ass roller tray that holds a box full of mud, the cheap roller will only fill the walls with pubes and fall apart.
you have to trowel it off but its easy as and smooths out great, almost no ridges and a radius360 idiot stick sand down under the double 500watts is all it needs, my next job will be the only job that i wont run a power sander on for the last 12years. Screw scooping from bucket to a hawk or pan then push it on the wall and wipe off, I leave it to uneven and to many ridges. You may not.


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## cazna

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> No I was saying that it is necessary to use a light.


Sorry man, miss read it, yes i know, Im an arse, apoliges again. My comment was for Mudstar.


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## Mudstar

I believe that you light checkers that been in this business over 20 years never did before and have been told that you have to because got suckered into doing it so the painters job is easier. I have a question to you light checker. Do you follow the suggested manufactures way of application or do you try and do it with less steps to accomplish the finish inevitable of the systems. I only say this because anytime I follow this methods I don't see anywhere on the seams angles or beads that there's imperfections. Maybe you guys don't have you tools setup right to apply the proper amount of mud on the joint or something.


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## cazna

Mudstar said:


> I believe that you light checkers that been in this business over 20 years never did before and have been told that you have to because got suckered into doing it so the painters job is easier. I have a question to you light checker. Do you follow the suggested manufactures way of application or do you try and do it with less steps to accomplish the finish inevitable of the systems. I only say this because anytime I follow this methods I don't see anywhere on the seams angles or beads that there's imperfections. Maybe you guys don't have you tools setup right to apply the proper amount of mud on the joint or something.


Your prob right about not checking with a light 20years ago, standards were not as high then as they are now, customers expect better than that today so most of us have met that demand.

And as for suggested manufactures ways of application, Well how often does that work out, are you wet sanding your work as well, they recommend that so i hope you are.

Manufacturers are all about leaving a little out and recommending or warning about certain things so if something goes wrong they always have a cop out, and/or makes you buy more of there product. 

Painters dont plaster houses we do, most painters just blame the plasterer if there is something not right, they show up get a brush or roller and paint, very few painters will stop and fix a dent/scratch or chip, thats down time for them and there costs are usually screwed down so then they claim thats an extra or just dont bother so i would not feel comfortable not checking with a light and leaving it for them.

If your not checking with a light then i need to come and do a weeks work with you becouse i am doing it all wrong then.


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## 2buckcanuck

gee mudstar which part of the great white north do you live in, cause I'm moving there.hope it's not nunavut where it's dark 6 months out of the year and always cold and snowing. When did you guys start taping igloos


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## Capt-sheetrock

Mudstar said:


> I believe that you light checkers that been in this business over 20 years never did before and have been told that you have to because got suckered into doing it so the painters job is easier. I have a question to you light checker. Do you follow the suggested manufactures way of application or do you try and do it with less steps to accomplish the finish inevitable of the systems. I only say this because anytime I follow this methods I don't see anywhere on the seams angles or beads that there's imperfections. Maybe you guys don't have you tools setup right to apply the proper amount of mud on the joint or something.


I try this one.

I went to a light after years of refusing too. Why ???

Cause it finally dawned on my dumb arse, that it was more profitable to spend an hour (while I was already there) to check it, then to have to get up in the morning and drive an hour to point up 10 mins work, then have to drive an 1 1/2 to the job I should have been on at 7 am cause I screwed up and didn't catch that little bitty scratch left by my angle head cause it picked up a bit of trash.

Whooo, I feel better now, thanks for letting me share !!!


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## Mudstar

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I try this one.
> 
> I went to a light after years of refusing too. Why ???
> 
> I screwed up and didn't catch that little bitty scratch left by my angle head cause it picked up a bit of trash.


Why did you not see that scratch left behind? 

Where you working in the dark or did you have your eyes closed not to see the trash damage happen during the application? 

Depending on positioning of the light to show you what your tool is leaving behind can also be a problem seeing what you would see in normal lighting conditions. I'm sure you all know what I'm talking about how that could happen. 


JS


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## Mudstar

If you have bad eye for detail, lights not going to help you do any better in this trade anyways, especially if the consumer vision is better then the taper or painter, besides that matter. I think maybe why you light holders in the trade can't see as good as the person inspecting your work is your both using abnormal lighting conditions to inspect and all I have to say is you better have held the light in the same position J.S. 

I use my vison and feel the wall to perfect a job and I do use a light in the rooms that are dark that I can't focus on the wall, but as soon as you start going beyond that and start moving the light around to much things start looking different. 

Infractions create deseption and over reaction to quality and some use that as ther excuse for not seeing there inperfections, dam lights!

You all know where I'm coming from and know if you can't see the wall you get a light and don't forget to focus on the wall and if you can't go see an eye doctor. Also this light swingin around has to stop and looking into a 500 watt halogen is damaging your vision to do a good job in the first place so be practical but productive at the same time.

Like I said before, get back to work you slackers


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## Capt-sheetrock

Mudstar said:


> If you have bad eye for detail, lights not going to help you do any better in this trade anyways, especially if the consumer vision is better then the taper or painter, besides that matter. I think maybe why you light holders in the trade can't see as good as the person inspecting your work is your both using abnormal lighting conditions to inspect and all I have to say is you better have held the light in the same position J.S.
> 
> I use my vison and feel the wall to perfect a job and I do use a light in the rooms that are dark that I can't focus on the wall, but as soon as you start going beyond that and start moving the light around to much things start looking different.
> 
> Infractions create deseption and over reaction to quality and some use that as ther excuse for not seeing there inperfections, dam lights!
> 
> You all know where I'm coming from and know if you can't see the wall you get a light and don't forget to focus on the wall and if you can't go see an eye doctor. Also this light swingin around has to stop and looking into a 500 watt halogen is damaging your vision to do a good job in the first place so be practical but productive at the same time.
> 
> Like I said before, get back to work you slackers


I felt the same way for years, but now my life is easier since I went to a light. Works for me. I never was good enough that i didn't leave a scratch or poc mark somewhere. I guess we all can't be that good.


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## cazna

Yeah Capt, im not that good either. Pass me the light thanks, im not coming back for a little dent/chip/scratch i missed first time around, if the owner sees it then its to late.

We dont spend 24hrs a day looking at our work under different lighting as the owner will, all those evenings glancing at the wall with the uplight on that we were to tired to check with a light in the first place. 

Mudstar you are welcome to move to my town and be my competition any day, i wish other drywallers didnt use a light, would bring me more work, not that its need at the moment anyway.


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## Bevelation

cazna said:


> We dont spend 24hrs a day looking at our work under different lighting as the owner will, all those evenings glancing at the wall with the uplight on that we were to tired to check with a light in the first place.


 Believe it or not, we are the ones with the trained eye to see the imperfections. Seldom are the homeowners. Before I got into this line of work, I never came to notice or acknowledge minor nicks, humps or scratches in an otherwise normal finished wall. Never once.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Bevelation said:


> Believe it or not, we are the ones with the trained eye to see the imperfections. Seldom are the homeowners. Before I got into this line of work, I never came to notice or acknowledge minor nicks, humps or scratches in an otherwise normal finished wall. Never once.


 Its your lie,,, you can tell it as big as you want too


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## 2buckcanuck

from what I find were living in that so called world of information .people google ,youtube and come to sites like this to educate them selves and go nicks ,scrapes ,lines a no no and checking with light sounds good,standards keep getting higher.
Most builders will tell you that most home buyers dont notice the tape job till they move in,but it's that one out of twenty buyers that will make a stink and want it fixed.more than three touch ups on a wall,patch and re PAINT, well home owner lives there.that cost $$$$$$ better to be safe than sorry.
home owners trust lawyers more than construction workers,because of the tv shows and things they read on the net.They take way more interest in their homes than they use to


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## Bevelation

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Its your lie,,, you can tell it as big as you want too


The painter "sees" different imperfections than we do, as well. That doesn't help considering it's mostly just dirt picked up from their own roller.

Just to clarify, I light-check too.


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## cazna

The best time to pick up on the touch ups is after its sealed/undercoated with the light, but we are not around then most of the time, and most painters just blame the drywaller and keep on pushin the paint, sometimes if you get lucky the painter might check with a light, mark with a pencil and give you a chance to touch up, Im right on the painters tail with this, they tend to get the point if you push it enough.


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## Steve

On the commercial side of things, we usually have decent temp lights hanging which is enough for most of the work. I will usually pole sand with only the temp lights, then I carry a small halogen and a sanding sponge around and do a little detail sanding. I immediately have a superintendent approve my work before other trades come back in and start trashing my work. That way I can get paid to fix any damage. There is always damage or a last minute architectural change to go back to. 

I prefer a 100 watt incandescent bulb to a halogen, but they break too easily.


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> The best time to pick up on the touch ups is after its sealed/undercoated with the light, but we are not around then most of the time, and most painters just blame the drywaller and keep on pushin the paint, sometimes if you get lucky the painter might check with a light, mark with a pencil and give you a chance to touch up, Im right on the painters tail with this, they tend to get the point if you push it enough.


no way cazna,you dont go back after they paint do you,the whole purpose of the taper is to hide the joints and fasteners with as little imperfections as possible.how many tape jobs have you seen where a taper can't even hide a joint ?I'm ready to kill if I get sent back to fix a couple of nicks and dings.A damn good taper will invest 5 to 10 thousand dollars in tools ,and now he's going to go back and FIX !!!!! stuff with a plastic knife and pan he could buy from toys "r" us,screw that !!!!! ,
A contractor said to me once,"Only one out of a hundred tapers is any good,and when you find one thats good ,don't let him know it !"stand your ground,if you are good you wont be going back to fix bull sh*t .If you are going back to fix major taping errors ,time to look at a career change ,But something tells me your a good taper cazna ,you fix alot of things from dry wallers and framers don't you?painters can FIX things too!
Bottom line ;there is absolutely no money in the word FIXX when your a contract/piece work taper (hr work different) painters getting a freebee from you.just trying to save you some money,then you can get more beer  cheers


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## cazna

That was good little rant :thumbup: yeah go you:thumbsup: must have pushed a good button on that one ha ha.

Well Mr 2buck its a bit hard to cover everything typing short phrases like this but i will give it a shot to defend my honour, now its my turn.

Im in a small town so going back is not much of a problem most of the time, and im not going back to fix any of my seams, i get them right and light check when sanding.

On my last job i got the cupboards, garage, laundry, bathroom toilets, finished and sanded up first so the painters could come in and get these sorted for fit out so i carryed on finishing bedrooms, hallways, so then they could have that while i finshed living areas etc, so its not much bother to check over it once they have sealed it when im still there is it.

My House before this i completed it fully before the painters started, checked over it often and even went back to light check at night, this house was a high end home and the builders left the apprentices to board it out and they beat it to death, they walked on the sheets while they lay on the ground with there stone covered shoes, used the butts of there hammers to hold ceiling sheets up while screwing off, cut the face paper of the board realised they screwed up the measurement, re cut the board and then used this sheet with the wrong cut anyway, even in bathroom.
Put the battens up the wrong way so then the board had to run with the battens not across, so then one edge of the board was not held by much and cracked in a main living area, on and on i could go, anyway i thought i had it all sorted, the painters came in and spray sealed it, passed a light over it and it turns out i missed around 100 sratches and bruses, my seams where perfect but i did not see these. So back i went make sure these were sorted.

Plumbers cut holes, kitchens scratchs wall, Electricians cut holes, tilers damage walls, vanities dont fit, the wallboard sometimes is not put close enough to door frames then they trim with small trims and these dont cover, they install cavaity sliders/kitchen doors and dent the ceilings and so on.

Now i could moan about this to everyone and it wont change a thing, it will just piss the home owner off, waste my energy, and all the other subbys wont want to deal with you, Or i could allow a couple of days extra on the price to fix all these things, not moan about it, sh!t happens, not upset the owner as they have enough to stress about and look what happens, all the subbys love you, the owner thinks your awsome and tells everyone, then you get repeated work at higher prices than your compition becouse all they do is winge about a little fix up.

So if you have a problem about going back to sort these things out and generally be a helpful person to have around then maybe you need to change your job becouse these things wont stop happening just becouse you get pissy about a fix up, or the other subbys wont call you becouse they cant be bothered with your sh!t and leave it unfixed for the owner to see.

Now look how much you made me type and time i have wasted pointing out the obvious, lets just say i love other plasterers that wont fix up or annoy the customer for extras. you guys make it easy for me to make a living. Thanks.


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## 2buckcanuck

not fighting with you cazna,big difference between us is your contracting and I'm sub contracting.I did what you did before ,fix this ,do that ,make them love you ,but I found love dont pay the bills.
where I live there's three big drywall contractors that employ over 100 hangers,tapers,insulators,each,your not going to beat them so you half to join them.you tape behind good dry wall work ,you can back charge if it's bad. you work for a set rate,extras for bead ,bull nose ,height,cathedral ceilings etc,work load sq ft is any where from 7,000 to 15,000 ,(depends on what house they give you)all level 4 work,level 5 extra,heat and water supplied ,finish your house? get on phone call for next one,were piece workers but were unionized (weak union) our wages are still going up ,pay day every two weeks,and a pension one day,sound good
here's the bad, you half to be really really good,if I get sent back to a house thats painted,I'm on the sh*t list,do it again ,I'm sitting for the winter,and you better be damn fast, one house a week no matter what size ,for get weekends off,basically it's a company your in and you compete to be #1 or stay #1.gets harder to do when your 48 (got 28 yr old helper) I under stand what your doing ,were night and day though ,plus we have repair guys for those bad guys who put holes in walls lol
may be you should move to Canada cazna,do you like snow


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## SaskMud

Cazna SO well said!

Here in my area I'd say about 75-80% of finishers are either massive alcoholics or substance abuse addicts or have the work ethic of 4 year old with ADD. 

I train guys that are worth my time and we walk away with usually 30-70$ an hour, depending on the job, we DO the small jobs, someone calls me with a 8x4 ceiling that is damaged from water, match the texture, takes 2 guys 3-4 days 30 min-1 hr total of 4 hours of work for $800... HELL YA! We do get that small contract and where did he find out about us?? A REFERAL CAUSE WE DID IT RIGHT THE 1ST TIME!!!

Make it done right the 1st time, make everyone happy your working around, have good dress and deportment, don't swear with clients around, and make that client LOVE YOU & WHAT YOU DO!!

Referals is what gives your business a spine when the market is flooded with ads from some random taper teams that do not want a boss, and doesnt have real overhead like insurance, etc.


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## 2buckcanuck

gee ,I went back and re read some of these post and Im having to agree with mudstar (half to kill my self now lol)if your going back to fix your own work then your doing something wrong,if your going back to FIX somebody else's work or mistakes I hope your getting paid for it !!
Here's a trick from a old timer,run around with a chord less light before you sand ,and right now every one thinks Im nuts,but think about it,when you do that your going to find that line from your box or angle flusher,that porosity that's in your butt joint (how that get there ?) the screw with one coat ,that nick,that ding ,that scrape ,why will you find this stuff ,CAUSE IT"S NOT FULL OF SANDING DUST,then when you sand guess what your looking for,sanding errors,and there should none if you know how to sand yet.oh my god !!! mudstar may be right
and saskmud ,cazna explained why he's going back (hope you get paid extra)because this is a thread about lights and checking,guess you were drinking or doing some substance and didn't notice that


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## SaskMud

I guess I got a little off track, I'm PRO light. Just saying doing it with a light you will not be called back. LOL, I get a little carried away sometimes...


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## 2buckcanuck

SaskMud said:


> I guess I got a little off track, I'm PRO light. Just saying doing it with a light you will not be called back. LOL, I get a little carried away sometimes...


thats cool saskmud,don't want to fight with a fellow canuck,....since us canucks are so friendly .....lets pick on some yanks instead
you keeping busy there in Saskatchewan ,can't keep up here in Ontario,hear their kind of slow down there in the states......stirring the pot tee hee :whistling2:


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## Mudstar

2buck you know how it is and your last couple posts are well said, your attitude is the same as mine and that's why we get all the work day after day. We pump it out and the quality is next to perfect with little need to go over what we have done, on to the next house all with in a day. I'm in the exact houses you do with the same conditions and pay. Keep up the good work is all I have to say.

:thumbsup:


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## SaskMud

Yea busy here in Sask. Lots of insurance work cause we have been having huge amounts of rain, 14-33 inches up... killer on the back... but its killer on the visa bill  haha


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