# Finishing drywall against hidden wood frame



## mkd1202 (Feb 19, 2010)

I have a commercial construction project where a hidden wood frame was installed for a smooth seamless look where only the reveal of the door is visible along the wall. We cornerbeaded the edge but it continues to crack at where the frame meets the drywall. We have discussed several options, but none offer the smooth seamless look that the architect wants and I want to give the architect what he wants.

Does anyone have any experience with framing and finishing this sort of detail? I've eard Durabond would be a good solution to the cracking of disimilar materials.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike


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## roominaday (Feb 14, 2010)

Did you apply bead directly to the wood and apply mud on the wood?


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## Wallers (Dec 7, 2008)

ezyjamb.com Too bad you are so far in the project! We were brainstorming on that awhile ago, and I figured no matter how good you attached everything there WOULD be cracking. We were going to have them install jambs, rock up to them, use tape on bead, finish directly to the wood, and CROSS OUR FINGERS. We found this ezyjamb.com, which I was excited to work with, they are about 160- 175 each, and when the HO saw that price, coupled with the framers price to frame for them, and then my price to finish, he decided he really did'nt mind the look of a cased door! But check those out!


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## mudslingercor (Jul 2, 2009)

I've done many applications to wood I always try to deture but of course rarely do people listen to the dumb f$#@ taper. I'm trying to visualize but having a little trouble. Here's what I know though anyways. First if it's flat wall then beaded edge that goes up to frame, I'd dap the bead to wood or where it cracks. There are also door and window frames that have a small slot for the bead edge to slide into. If your taping to wood or mdf esp. they have to be sealed (painted) before taping over.Mdf esp acts like a sponge it swells then shrinks as it dries same with wood just not as bad depending on the wood. Now the MAJOR problem with door frames esp solid wood doors is the weight of the door and the vibration from closing that is why dap work on some cracks because it's flexibility . Even if you are able to stop the cracking eventually it will come back due to vibration. Explain that to architect and then void warranty if they desire to continue. Mud and wood don't mix. 
I've also had the groove for the bead cut into the frame before install.


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## necktai (Feb 15, 2010)

the best thing you can do is to give a good first coat with sheetrock then top with mud for the second and skim coat. but mudslingercor is right over time the vibration very well may crack it. do not give a warranty!!!!!!!! best of luck.


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

If the jamb is the same width as the finished wall, ie you've butted the drywall into the jamb - then you're going to have a tough time keeping the transition from wood to drywall from cracking. I have tried using a slightly wider jam with the edge bevelled back to the drywall, thus creating a void where mesh and setting compound can be used to bridge the gap. Still, it'll be very susceptible to cracking down the road. 

A better way is to have the jamb the same width as the framing and lap the drywall over the jamb leaving a 1/4" reveal. Apply L-bead to the edge of the drywall and then caulk the reveal. I've seen this in 30 year old houses and it was holding up. It is for sure a cleaner look as evidenced by the ezyjamb.com photos.

Good luck,
D'S


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## Nleone (Sep 11, 2011)

*Invisible door jamb detail*

Install L-bead flush with door jamb leaving a 1/16" - 1/32" gap. Install PL premium in 1/16" crack between wood jamb and L-Bead. Install tape & compound using the L-bead as a guide. Install thin layer of bondo body filler on top of the dry PL and on top of the wood jamb. Prime and paint as if the drywall is continuous. Good luck.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

NP-1. That sh!t is bombproof. At least, I've never seen it crack. I don't know how well it would function with a tight bead, but if you're looking for a tight bead that won't look like it was applied (and you want to paint it) try Big Stretch....good stuff..painters might have a better recommendation. 

Or, you can tell the architect "just because you want it to happen doesn't mean it's gonna. Have you seen Falling Water lately?"


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> NP-1. That sh!t is bombproof. At least, I've never seen it crack. I don't know how well it would function with a tight bead, but if you're looking for a tight bead that won't look like it was applied (and you want to paint it) try Big Stretch....good stuff..painters might have a better recommendation.
> 
> Or, you can tell the architect "just because you want it to happen doesn't mean it's gonna. Have you seen Falling Water lately?"



I got my License to use Faset


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> I got my License to use Faset


What's that? First page of Google doesn't give any information....


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