# Apla Tech coaters



## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how to adjust the coaters blade so it achieves A nice feathered edge? Or will it even leave a feathered edge? I always seem to get a ridge- not a huge one mind you, but wondering if that is the norm. I wipe behind anyways so not all that of a big deal except on the ceiling. I like sanding the least amount as possible so ridges are bad lol.


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## 1wallboardsman (Feb 20, 2008)

taper71 said:


> I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how to adjust the coaters blade so it achieves A nice feathered edge? Or will it even leave a feathered edge? I always seem to get a ridge- not a huge one mind you, but wondering if that is the norm. I wipe behind anyways so not all that of a big deal except on the ceiling. I like sanding the least amount as possible so ridges are bad lol.


I know that I am an "old dog" and therefore, either without knowledge or senile, but remember that you asked, and, that you can ignore the reply as the lunatic ramblings of another burned-out old fart, if you want.

Apla-Tech is an application (makework) system, not a finishing system. It's design is not the same as a flat box. The flat box is designed to be a finishing (dowork) tool.

Because of this design difference, the Apla-Tech coater is prone to leaving what an "old dog" would call, "the hard edge", because it's side skids (called shoes on a flatbox) are usually even with the blade. The blade needs to be slightly higher then the "shoe" to allow a limited amount of mud to pass over for proper feathering. Like a flatbox.

Back in the old days, the "old dogs" that understood this would adjust their blades out so that they would be higher then the shoes. Some of the "old dogs" used a piece of tape as a feeler gauge for this.

Does the Apla-Tech have this adjustment?


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

As I am just learning this tool I am open to any and all tips on the apla tech coater. I have enough knowledge on the use, maintenance, and set up of my personal boxes to get a really nice feathered edge and flat serface. 
The apla tech system I have found to be worth its weight in gold for the corners, also for when I do each side of butt joints as you really can adjust the crown nicely compared to the flat box. Corners I have doubled my speed on finishing compared to the hockey box with a way better quality finish. 
I have both apla tech ( air version) and my boxes at the job site. I find 2 differences with the apla tech .1- I can go alot further without having to fill up the apla tech saving me time . 2- is that instead of a knife( which I use behind my boxes), I use a curved trowel for the apla tech to wipe behind to get rid of the ridges that it leaves and at the same time finishing it flat and smooth. Having both sets on the job also speeds up my time because I can go that much further before filling up. I use my boxes on the cielings for what should be obvious reasons, and apla tech aswell as boxes on the walls. I don't use the 12" coater as it takes too much time wiping behind it compared to the nice skim coat that my 12" box leaves. That why my question is for the people with apla tech experience .


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## 1wallboardsman (Feb 20, 2008)

taper71 said:


> I use my boxes on the cielings for what should be obvious reasons, and apla tech aswell as boxes on the walls. *I don't use the 12" coater as it takes too much time wiping behind it compared to the nice skim coat that my 12" box leaves.* That why my question is for the people with apla tech experience .


 
That is the Apla-Tech experience. For a small crew, it is a makework system. It is only time effecient for a 5 - 6 man crew that has 2 apprentices for wipedown duties, on a job that will support that production level.

jdl


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## tonyvlx (Feb 6, 2008)

After using the apla-tech system for 2 years im fairly good at using the 10' coater.


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## kiwistopper (Mar 16, 2008)

I have been using the apla tech for 4 years now and have found that setting the coater blade about the thickness of 2 peices of paper tape higher than the shoe works well. They are easy to adjust so u can quickly find a setting that will give you the result you want, I do find that the blades wear more set like this and are normally turning them over every 4000-5000 m2 or 15000sq ft .


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

....


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## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

i use my tapetech boxes with my aplatech system just drilled a hole, bought the handle presto a full pails use never have to run back to the pump again(need a steady mixer to keep up the pail level though) never bothered with those coaters though they look crude and wiping would probablly be needed


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## NH Drywall (May 27, 2008)

I've been using Apla-Tech for about 8 years now. No ridges and works just as well as the standard finishing box (most of the time). The only time I see a difference is when a wall has a dip or wave in it the apla-tech does not always apply compound fully into those areas that need a little extra--
(I see your post is from DEC 07) So I hope, for your sake, you've figured it out! hah. 
If you haven't- 
The settings I use are 30pounds pressure to the cannon (Use the cannon regulator to control this).... Then turn the black and yellow controls 1/3rd open (maybe a little more on the yellow depending on compound thickness). Set the curve of the blade as you would on a regular box (1/4 open for flat seams)... 
Your problem with ridging is probably due to too much mud being dispensed. Just turn the yellow control down a bit and you should be all set!


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Thanks for the reply NH. I always just open the yellow fully and use the black to control mud flow . I have my compressor set at 95 and the regulator on the cannon at 35. I actually stopped flats with the coater all together and just use it on each side of the butts now. I find that around here it is better to just use the boxes for the reason you stated above. The framing is usually really wavey due to material and framers not being what they used to be so I end up having to fix less with the traditional boxes. 
I will definately give your suggestion a try though just because I just landed a house with 10 foot ceiling and the coater will be faster coating the top flat from the floor other than stretching with the boxes and safer than putting on my stilts. I have gotten alot better with the coaters since I first posted, but still have a more consistent finish with my boxes.


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## Drywaller (Jun 15, 2008)

brdn_drywall said:


> i use my tapetech boxes with my aplatech system just drilled a hole, bought the handle presto a full pails use never have to run back to the pump again(need a steady mixer to keep up the pail level though) never bothered with those coaters though they look crude and wiping would probablly be needed


Im assuming your using the CFS system?But im not sure,you say you dont have to run back to the pump.
Im in the process of buying a used apla-tech system and have heard of this (modifying flat boxes to work with the cannon)Could you or anybody tell me more about what you did and how?
Thanks


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Drywaller 
I am pretty sure you can only modify boxes for the CFS system. You need a way to be able to lock the box to finish your run and with the cannon it may be possible, but I would think it would be too big , heavy, and bulky to save you any more time than just running your boxes normally.


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## brdn_drywall (Apr 25, 2008)

ya drywaller i use the cfs system i'm not so sure the origional apla system is worth investing in 1wallboardsman may be right about the make work system, but combined with graco cannot be beat for mass production.


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

I don't recommend Apla-Tech tools if you want better quality work. I bought the big system which was worth about $5,000.00 and some of the other guys here bought the tools also and everyone said the same thing.

In fact, the guy they sent here to demonstrate the tools after I bought them used a knife to wipe everything down. When I talked to the rep at Apla-Tech I asked him what everyone was saying about them in this area. His reply was that they were all saying they are good to apply the mud with.

In areas that may not require the high quality they do in this area Apla-Tech tools may be ok, but for the cost and up keep they don't finish drywall a lot faster than I can with my hand tools. 

In fact, I took the angle coater and bought a length of electrical conduit and cut it to a length of about 5 feet to make a handle and I put a fitting on the end of it that I could put the angle coater on. The 3/4 inch conduit and fittings will receive the Apla-Tech coating heads. Using an angle roller I applied the compound to the angles and wiped it out with the angle coater. I saved myself hauling the compressor and Apla-Tech tools and production was about the same overall and was easier on my body. It increased production enough that it generated about another $10.00 per hour.


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## drywallnflorida (Sep 19, 2008)

anyone using the cfs systems??????????

what pressures are you runing for the taper, boxes, and angel coater??

what kind of mud thickness are you using for each?

I have purchased a set and am in the process of figuring the system out so any info is greatly app. 

Thanks


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

taper71 said:


> I was wondering if anyone here can tell me how to adjust the coaters blade so it achieves A nice feathered edge? Or will it even leave a feathered edge? I always seem to get a ridge- not a huge one mind you, but wondering if that is the norm. I wipe behind anyways so not all that of a big deal except on the ceiling. I like sanding the least amount as possible so ridges are bad lol.


If you set the blade so it sticks out a bit, then turn the lever so the blade is arched a bit you should be able to get a tapered edge. But keep in mind, the Apla-Tech tools cannot do what a person does and will not taper as you can with a drywall knife. I've been able to second coat with it, but it's nothing like what a person can do. I have the 12 inch head and to skin coat with it I do not recommend.

I would use the Apla-Tech tools much like they do the mechanical tools, you need someone wiping behind you with a drywall knife.


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

taper71 said:


> As I am just learning this tool I am open to any and all tips on the apla tech coater. I have enough knowledge on the use, maintenance, and set up of my personal boxes to get a really nice feathered edge and flat serface.
> The apla tech system I have found to be worth its weight in gold for the corners, also for when I do each side of butt joints as you really can adjust the crown nicely compared to the flat box. Corners I have doubled my speed on finishing compared to the hockey box with a way better quality finish.
> I have both apla tech ( air version) and my boxes at the job site. I find 2 differences with the apla tech .1- I can go alot further without having to fill up the apla tech saving me time . 2- is that instead of a knife( which I use behind my boxes), I use a curved trowel for the apla tech to wipe behind to get rid of the ridges that it leaves and at the same time finishing it flat and smooth. Having both sets on the job also speeds up my time because I can go that much further before filling up. I use my boxes on the cielings for what should be obvious reasons, and apla tech aswell as boxes on the walls. I don't use the 12" coater as it takes too much time wiping behind it compared to the nice skim coat that my 12" box leaves. That why my question is for the people with apla tech experience .


 I bought a set a few years back and now they sit in the garage with the rest of the junk tools there is no adjustment.... the only thing i use now is the pump which i like very well and somtimes the angle head and applicator for paper tape on beads.. otherwise as far as the boxes go i have never been able to set them to keep the edges smooth always a ridge..


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## NH Drywall (May 27, 2008)

I'll still never understand why anyone would have flat boxes or apla-tech coaters and wipe down their work with a knife or trowel after they apply the mud. Sure if you're just learning how to use the tools - But, after you've become familiar with them *there should be no need at all to wipe down after running the tool....* 
If you're wiping down your work - you should find someone who knows how to use the tools properly and take a few lessons. 

Do you wipe down your angles and screws after running the machines too? >Semi-sarcastic<

PS: All work around here is level 5 or 6 -flat walls and ceilings- no texture. (And our drywall is expected to be as perfect as plaster - and always is)


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## 1wallboardsman (Feb 20, 2008)

:thumbsup: Now that sounds a little more like some drywall talk.


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

*Apla-Tech full system with T-series pump*

If anyone cares to try the apla-tech system I have a full set. You can see it here


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

JoeMudder said:


> If anyone cares to try the apla-tech system I have a full set. You can see it here


Good luck with the sale. 
I've advertised some of my apla-tech kit, but can't give it away.


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## tonyvlx (Feb 6, 2008)

Biggest waist of $$$ i have ever spent. After 3 years adjusting/playing with the coaters i gave up. The coaters are just garbage.


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## A+ Texture LLC (Jan 10, 2009)

Why don't you guys customize your flatboxes to use with it, I've been wanting to just get one of the pumps and box handle to do this. On a previous thread a guy said how he did it and it worked pretty good apparently.


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

TonyM said:


> Good luck with the sale.
> I've advertised some of my apla-tech kit, but can't give it away.


One of the drywall contractors here had a small set that he sold.


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

NH Drywall said:


> I'll still never understand why anyone would have flat boxes or apla-tech coaters and wipe down their work with a knife or trowel after they apply the mud. Sure if you're just learning how to use the tools - But, after you've become familiar with them *there should be no need at all to wipe down after running the tool....*
> If you're wiping down your work - you should find someone who knows how to use the tools properly and take a few lessons.
> 
> Do you wipe down your angles and screws after running the machines too? >Semi-sarcastic<
> ...


The funny thing is that the guy from Apla-Tech who came out to show me how to use the tools wiped things down after he coated and said that's how you get the quality with the tools. I used them for quite awhile and I know that you don't get good quality unless you wipe your work after applying the compound. The Apla-Tech heads just don't do what a person can do with a knife.


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## texas412 (Jun 16, 2009)

I do not like the apla tech at all. The hose is a pain which is more items to clean and my partner triped over hose which would be a problem if the wrong person wants to sue me and or the homeowner for cracking there head.


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## drywalltaper (Jun 16, 2009)

JoeMudder said:


> The funny thing is that the guy from Apla-Tech who came out to show me how to use the tools wiped things down after he coated and said that's how you get the quality with the tools. I used them for quite awhile and I know that you don't get good quality unless you wipe your work after applying the compound. The Apla-Tech heads just don't do what a person can do with a knife.


Hey Joemudder. I have a set of Apla-Tech and the tools work great. I learned by hand and then ran boxes. I bought an Apla Tech set of tools and it took me a little while to get used to them but they work perfect. I also had a rep come show me how to use the tools. I don't think it was the same guy because everything looked perfect. I recently upgraded my set of air tools to the new boxes they offer. Things operate much easier now they did a great job with those. They traded my old tools in for the new ones. There was a little cost difference but it is worth it. Maybe you should give them a call.


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## drywalltaper (Jun 16, 2009)

texas412 said:


> I do not like the apla tech at all. The hose is a pain which is more items to clean and my partner triped over hose which would be a problem if the wrong person wants to sue me and or the homeowner for cracking there head.


texas412 I couldn't help but read your post and laugh to myself. Do you use extension cords on jobs? What if a homeowner trips on those? Who they going to sue you? If they are that accident prone they shouldn't be anywhere near a jobite.


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## tanker300 (Oct 19, 2008)

depends on what you are trained with


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I got a set of aplateck and mine sit in the shop tone big pain in you know what.The coater leave too much or not enouph ,unless ofcoarse you hit just the right speed for the amount of air presure and thickness of mud.After i finaly shuved them and got my 20 year old boxes back out it was a no brainer agane just how i like it.I do like the pump for filling the boxes and bazoka.didn't like untangling air lines either.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

Glad i read these threads ,now ican lauph because i see i am not the only one who fell for the easyer to use sales pich!


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

drywalltaper said:


> Hey Joemudder. I have a set of Apla-Tech and the tools work great. I learned by hand and then ran boxes. I bought an Apla Tech set of tools and it took me a little while to get used to them but they work perfect. I also had a rep come show me how to use the tools. I don't think it was the same guy because everything looked perfect. I recently upgraded my set of air tools to the new boxes they offer. Things operate much easier now they did a great job with those. They traded my old tools in for the new ones. There was a little cost difference but it is worth it. Maybe you should give them a call.


Here is the other issue. I can coat almost as fast with handtools, so the cost involved with the apla-tech tools actually earns me less money. My hand finishing time hovers around 180 to 210 square feet per hour. Based on what you get per foot you can get a guess as to what I earn with hand tools


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## drywalltaper (Jun 16, 2009)

JoeMudder said:


> Here is the other issue. I can coat almost as fast with handtools, so the cost involved with the apla-tech tools actually earns me less money. My hand finishing time hovers around 180 to 210 square feet per hour. Based on what you get per foot you can get a guess as to what I earn with hand tools


 
Hey not every tool is for everybody. You have to do what makes you the most money. I know plenty of guys who have Bazookas sitting in their garage and swear they don't work. Which is obviously untrue. There is a fair share of people that have boxes sitting around too because they don't work. Reality is that its hard to change what you are comfortable with. I'll tell you I moved backwards in production when I started using tools. But now I can do more than I ever could before. We all know the jobsite conditions and jobs aren't getting any easier to do either.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

I haven,t tryed to sell mine,sounds like it could be hard to do.i have the taper too and its awkward to run. alittle easyer untill you trip over the air lines or move too fast and dont get enouph mud under the tape.


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## drywalltaper (Jun 16, 2009)

alltex said:


> Glad i read these threads ,now ican lauph because i see i am not the only one who fell for the easyer to use sales pich!


hey alltex if you like the boxes you should seriously look into wiping the cobwebs off of your aplatech and trading them in for the new ones. it makes a HUGE difference in the timing. I could run the coaters perfect but when I got a new guy to run them it was a complete disaster. with the new boxes that is not an issue. i think they have video footage online of them. not sure but check it out.


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## TonyM (Aug 4, 2008)

drywalltaper said:


> Hey Joemudder. I have a set of Apla-Tech and the tools work great. I learned by hand and then ran boxes. I bought an Apla Tech set of tools and it took me a little while to get used to them but they work perfect. I also had a rep come show me how to use the tools. I don't think it was the same guy because everything looked perfect. I recently upgraded my set of air tools to the new boxes they offer. Things operate much easier now they did a great job with those. They traded my old tools in for the new ones. There was a little cost difference but it is worth it. Maybe you should give them a call.


Are you using the new boxes with the apla-pump or CFS?


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## JoeMudder (Sep 13, 2008)

drywalltaper said:


> Hey not every tool is for everybody. You have to do what makes you the most money. I know plenty of guys who have Bazookas sitting in their garage and swear they don't work. Which is obviously untrue. There is a fair share of people that have boxes sitting around too because they don't work. Reality is that its hard to change what you are comfortable with. I'll tell you I moved backwards in production when I started using tools. But now I can do more than I ever could before. We all know the jobsite conditions and jobs aren't getting any easier to do either.


The guy from Apla-tech that demoed the tools for me knew how to run a bazooka and he had a fitting that allowed us to fill it with mud from the apla-tech pump so we got a bazooka and we got a lot of taping done fast. From watching the videos I do think that the taping system Apla-tech has is very good. I've just never tried it so I can't comment on it either way but my experience with the bazooka was good. I also talked with another finisher who used a bazooka and he said they hold up good if you know how to use them well. The guy from apla-tech broke the bazooka within the first 3 hours of use, but he was being rough on the equipment also in his eagerness to prove how well this equipment works. He was working much harder than you would normally. I know that when I push myself to that point I burn out much faster. I've learned that setting a good steady pace will earn you far more money.


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## drywalltaper (Jun 16, 2009)

TonyM said:


> Are you using the new boxes with the apla-pump or CFS?


 Hey TonyM,
I have both systems. Depending on the size of the job I use one or the other. Slim Line boxes are much better on either one.


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## Stinger (Jan 8, 2010)

NH Drywall said:


> I'll still never understand why anyone would have flat boxes or apla-tech coaters and wipe down their work with a knife or trowel after they apply the mud. Sure if you're just learning how to use the tools - But, after you've become familiar with them *there should be no need at all to wipe down after running the tool....*
> If you're wiping down your work - you should find someone who knows how to use the tools properly and take a few lessons.
> 
> Do you wipe down your angles and screws after running the machines too? >Semi-sarcastic<
> ...


I agree 100%! Adjust your tools/mud right and save your hand trowel for picking angles and spinning outlets. Not all tools adjust like you need for a hands free process though. I like tape tech for there fine adjustment capabilities. I have never ever wiped behind a machine tool because: machine tool = precision & hand tool =hand finisher trying to prove he can do the same. 
Machine tools set the standard, and die hard hand finishers try to meet the standard because they know it's not set by them, it's set by the tools.
And when they realize the tools are ahead of them, they try to make people believe they are still needed so they get behind the tools and wipe!
But if your good at machine tools, you don't wipe. You just tell the hand finisher to go pick angles, spin boxes, spot screws, and I'll do everything else. I prove it everyday. I have done time tracking for the past 15 years and can post detailed information that proves you can lay off 2 experienced hand finishers, run tools and do a job alone within 10% of the same time frame and not have to pay them, which helps me profit to buy more tools. But if you have hand finishers, they will follow you and wipe or go off and try to run short flats and bead and butts. I tell them to get lost because I can do it all alone in the same amount of time and with better precision if they don't touch it. Not that I don't hand finish with great competency, but hand finishing is losing it's place on the job big time. Box & wipe why? Because you can't run a box like it's supposed to be ran. Although with Apla-tech coaters, I wouldn't put them up against a traditional style box. You can go over a flat once with accuracy, or five times if you needed to fix a bubble or lap or whatever with a box. But Apla-tech's coaters are a 1 shot deal and everything better go smooth or hopefully you own a power sander,or have a guy to wipe your mess because you chose the wrong tool, didn't know how to run it, or something went wrong. So the only reason people wipe behind a tool is because they don't know as much about running the tool as they claim.


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## Stinger (Jan 8, 2010)

JoeMudder said:


> Here is the other issue. I can coat almost as fast with handtools, so the cost involved with the apla-tech tools actually earns me less money. My hand finishing time hovers around 180 to 210 square feet per hour. Based on what you get per foot you can get a guess as to what I earn with hand tools


 A 30' long flat on a 9' ceiling, you start at one end with your pan and knife, I start at the other end with an Apla-tech coater(and I don't really like coaters compared to a box), and your going to meet me in the middle of the flat? Or even 30% of the way toward me? And then repeat that process on every flat on a job and your almost as fast? Somebody dump some cold water on this guy and wake him up because he's dreaming. Meantime the guy running a tool is relaxed and having fun while you sweat your bag off trying to prove yourself. And you cant keep that pace throughout the day throughout the job throughout your career. I have fired guys that brag like you over the years after I proved them wrong on the job. And would you believe they are still out there selling their crap about being almost as fast like you are? From what I have experienced, it seems to be the guys that can't afford to invest in tools that jealously criticize them and claim to be as fast. Let me guess, you can sand a job by hand almost as fast as a worker with a power sander too because you don't have one of those either and look at all the money you make by not having one?


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## raymul (Jan 18, 2010)

*Absolute unadulterated drivel*



NH Drywall said:


> I'll still never understand why anyone would have flat boxes or apla-tech coaters and wipe down their work with a knife or trowel after they apply the mud. Sure if you're just learning how to use the tools - But, after you've become familiar with them *there should be no need at all to wipe down after running the tool....*
> If you're wiping down your work - you should find someone who knows how to use the tools properly and take a few lessons.
> 
> Do you wipe down your angles and screws after running the machines too? >Semi-sarcastic<
> ...


There is not a joiner on this planet that can hang board to perfection every time.
to say that any box can be run with a perfect tapered edge is braggard in the extreme.

I have been pushing for 32 years and ALWAYS taper with knife to negate sanding.

Compound is a wet friend, I am sick of hearing slap dash monkeys saying they caned it then spend 10 hours coughin thier lungs out and wishing there wasnt 'so much sanding involved'

I use a wet n dry block on my stilts to shape and feather nothing more!

Wipedown, wipedown, WIPEDOWN!

Fool...


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

well rayBULL I have been running boxes the same amount of years as you and if you still can,t make your tools run right thats too bad. All i do is touch up the flats a liitle and float the butts .usualy i don,t sand between coats at all.(metal or flats),never sand for knock down at all. Keep trying , you will be as good as US tapers some day!!!


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

He already is as good as we are. He is just trying to make us feel better. He has a bad attitude about drywall. Kinda wonder why he does it for a living...


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

raymul said:


> There is not a joiner on this planet that can hang board to perfection every time.
> to say that any box can be run with a perfect tapered edge is braggard in the extreme.
> 
> I have been pushing for 32 years and ALWAYS taper with knife to negate sanding.
> ...


Keep posting,,,,, you lose more respect everytime,,,,,:thumbup:

You wet sand everything???? HAH HAH< HEE HEE< HOH HOH< HAH HAH<HEE HEE,,, etc etc


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

alltex said:


> well rayBULL I have been running boxes the same amount of years as you and if you still can,t make your tools run right thats too bad. All i do is touch up the flats a liitle and float the butts .usualy i don,t sand between coats at all.(metal or flats),never sand for knock down at all. Keep trying , you will be as good as US tapers some day!!!




I see some guys wipe down at work here, yes it is true that if your set is right there is no wipedown, the blade did it, I think these folks who wipedown want to take a looksee :detective:at there work so it is gauranteed to perfection, knock the crown down,

it all comes to what you are comfortable with, myself I can't see wasteing all the time doing it as I run 3 coats anyway


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

LOL, Bazooka Joe, did you realize that the last response to this post before you was made by Capt Sheetrock 1yr 7months 1 day ago?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> LOL, Bazooka Joe, did you realize that the last response to this post before you was made by Capt Sheetrock 1yr 7months 1 day ago?


now now, nothing wrong with addressing old post, new members joining all the time. There's always a new opinion that could be added. I like it when old post are re- addressed, keeps the place more active:yes:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

not saying that there is anything wrong with it, just most ppl wouldn't bother looking back that far to see if it had been discussed already.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

fr8train said:


> LOL, Bazooka Joe, did you realize that the last response to this post before you was made by Capt Sheetrock 1yr 7months 1 day ago?


Yep had to put my 2 bucks in:tongue:


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