# What's your favorite mud?



## grid ninja (Mar 21, 2010)

:donatello:been using u,s.g. all propose light . we have been getting some mud called magnum mud seems to be really good. magnum material company


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

grid ninja said:


> :donatello:been using u,s.g. all propose light . we have been getting some mud called magnum mud seems to be really good. magnum material company


Magnum is a good mud, but their "g" mud is like $2 cheaper and is the same thing in a differant bucket. I like it cause it DOES NOT bubble, no poc marks period. 

My favorite mud is pro-form machine grade with the burgandy lid. Its a mid-wieght mud. I like it cause i use tools and thats a major factor in why i like the muds I do. If I hand finshed, I would use the "g" mud from magum.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

thx capt for referring me to this site also...im getting a little tired of your friends over at the other place....:whistling2:

I personally prefer the proform multi-use or usg midweight...lafarge is pretty good also...I used to use magnum...one of the companies I used to sub for used them..it is a pretty slick mud but you got to clean your tools after each day...I'm assuming we are talking about the same mud...its in a metal bucket with a tabbed lid like oil base paint?...I could be wrong and Im thinking of ruco....anyways, the stuff in the metal buckets will eat the anodizing off your boxes....come in the next day after taking out of the water bucket, push the leftover mud out and it will have the tint of your tools in it

I still am trying to get this machine grade mud craig, my rep is checking in to it for me


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bill from Indy said:


> thx capt for referring me to this site also...im getting a little tired of your friends over at the other place....:whistling2:
> 
> I personally prefer the proform multi-use or usg midweight...lafarge is pretty good also...I used to use magnum...one of the companies I used to sub for used them..it is a pretty slick mud but you got to clean your tools after each day...I'm assuming we are talking about the same mud...its in a metal bucket with a tabbed lid like oil base paint?...I could be wrong and Im thinking of ruco....anyways, the stuff in the metal buckets will eat the anodizing off your boxes....come in the next day after taking out of the water bucket, push the leftover mud out and it will have the tint of your tools in it
> 
> I still am trying to get this machine grade mud craig, my rep is checking in to it for me


I agree, that forum is getting to be a real exercise.

The magnum mud we use comes in regular plastic buckets, may be a differant brand ??? 

The machine grade is made by pro-form. I misspoke on the previous thread, thier red-lid is mid-weight, the burgandy lid (machine grade) is AP, regular wieght. BUt it runs REAL good throught the tools.Don't know about how it effects the tools overnight, I ALWAYS clean my tools out everyday.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

your right capt i should....but i get on jobs that are 1000bd plus...its easy to leave them in a water bucket and put it in game box till morning...laziness comes with age i guess


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

i think im wrong on the magnum mud...i think it is ruco im referring to....white bucket with red writing.....its a metal bucket and lid...has the tabs that fold over like a oil base paint bucket.....it has been years since ive used it and maybe they have changed by now...it is part of magnum though i remember that


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

they have changed it craig...here is what i was referring to

http://www.ruco.com/productinfo/


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## pipercub17 (Feb 26, 2010)

i wish i could find some of the brand you are talking about in canada 
all i have seen hear is synco and pro roc mud here


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## eastex1963 (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm sure that there are as many opinions about what our favorite mud is as there are about which is better, Ford or Chevy. 

I use USG blue for taping, bedding and skim. Green USG for texture. I use hand tools. Works for me. No callbacks, unless I miss a ridge or we cover a box while hanging. Never because of the mud or cracks. Been using blue USG for about 8 yrs. now.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bill from Indy said:


> they have changed it craig...here is what i was referring to
> 
> http://www.ruco.com/productinfo/


I remeber finding ruco in the late 70's, it was my favorite mud at that time.

Thats is not the magnum mud I was talking about, wish I was techno savy enought to post a link, but there are some things that ole goats just can't do, heehee.

I will use any mud I have too, I have a syaing, 'I'll use mud from the yard if you want me too"

That doesn't mean that I don't have brands I prefer,,,, and I don't much care for USG green lid,,,,,,, but I'll use it if I have too


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

not being techno savy, just do a google serach for magnum joint compund. Thats the magnum mud. They make a "g" mud, all purpose, that runs just as good and $2 a bucket cheaper.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bill from Indy said:


> your right capt i should....but i get on jobs that are 1000bd plus...its easy to leave them in a water bucket and put it in game box till morning...laziness comes with age i guess


Bill what I do is this,,,, when I am done running a tool, I send the helper that was wipeing behind the tool out to clean them immediatly and then put em back on the truck,,, if he ain't back in time,,,,, well then I know he is not paying attention. Gets the tools cleaned and on the truck before the job is finished. Might work for ya, might not


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

well craig, i was wrong or misinformed...I have used magnum too years ago and was told by rep that magnum materials owned ruco but it clearly says southern wall products....so dunno...

as for tool cleanup, I do a lot of high rise or tenant finish projects...last time I had a helper go to mop room to clean out tools, he flooded the damn floor and I got reamed by property management...lol...so, I just keep boxes/pump in bucket till im done with job..I usually have a 3 or 4 day turnover...then clean them the day im done....the tube I always clean out when i'm done with it..clean heads after use too and I keep them in a small tool box that I keep marvels oil in...keeps them running smooth....I got the concorde boxes still with the removable heads and keep them in there too.....spotter heads as well


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

Synko Light Finish (green box)


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bill from Indy said:


> well craig, i was wrong or misinformed...I have used magnum too years ago and was told by rep that magnum materials owned ruco but it clearly says southern wall products....so dunno...
> 
> as for tool cleanup, I do a lot of high rise or tenant finish projects...last time I had a helper go to mop room to clean out tools, he flooded the damn floor and I got reamed by property management...lol...so, I just keep boxes/pump in bucket till im done with job..I usually have a 3 or 4 day turnover...then clean them the day im done....the tube I always clean out when i'm done with it..clean heads after use too and I keep them in a small tool box that I keep marvels oil in...keeps them running smooth....I got the concorde boxes still with the removable heads and keep them in there too.....spotter heads as well


Cool, sounds like it works man. Like everything else, ya got to find a systen that works for you. Doing that kinda volume, you can afford to put a small bit of extra wear on em. After all they ARE tools and not hierlooms !!!:thumbsup:


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

has anyone tried lafarge rapid coat ? it doesn't seem too bad but it does dry quick !!! when I'm doing an involved texture i use u.s.g. green lid.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

ive used the magnum g mud.. its 9.00 a bucket her versus 12.50 for usg ruco and proform. but proform black top is good to. no pop marks or air pockets. But i also use ruco box mud which is cost effective. Its 6.50 a box. but with magnum u have to spray wd40 on ur knives after every use..


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

be careful with that Pro Form, I got ahold of some bad batches , had to completely re-texture 2 homes. Great material before that happened, they may have everything fixed with there formula now. it was several years back when this happened to me.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

tricounty dwall said:


> ive used the magnum g mud.. its 9.00 a bucket her versus 12.50 for usg ruco and proform. but proform black top is good to. no pop marks or air pockets. But i also use ruco box mud which is cost effective. Its 6.50 a box. but with magnum u have to spray wd40 on ur knives after every use..


Not if you use stainless steel tools,,,, I know I know,, it's an old goat, tired of cleaning knives type of thing !!!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

betterdrywall said:


> be careful with that Pro Form, I got ahold of some bad batches , had to completely re-texture 2 homes. Great material before that happened, they may have everything fixed with there formula now. it was several years back when this happened to me.


I don't really care for pro form black lid, I'll use it ifin I have too, but it is SO hard to sand,, I really don't like it, and I find it "pocks" as bad as green lid, so I can't really find any reason to use it.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

yea with black top it is harder to sand .. ive found that ruco is easiest to sand.. and like i said at 6.50 a box it helps in this economy. the downside is u have to clean buckets..


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## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

Gotta be Hamilton Drywall products the mudd is amazing in British Columbia, Mud is made in Washington state.. i think woodland.. by prefrence it's the best mudd i love the hamilton redline.. we call them hammys


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I don't really care for pro form black lid, I'll use it ifin I have too, but it is SO hard to sand,, I really don't like it, and I find it "pocks" as bad as green lid, so I can't really find any reason to use it.


YOUR right on all points. there both crap capt. pocs are unreal. a real pain to deal with. extra coat on everything, because of pocs .it's bs. all we have here here at local building supplys. local lowes carries usg plus 3 ,gray bucket/blue lid . great stuff. less..less scratches / hides tape/ no pocs. but takes forever to dry. i'm labor only ,so i deal with what they send me .[ruco mud is the worst. that i wont deal with] take it back!:ban:


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

ProRoc yellow for taping and blue for the rest. Just like it says " Best mud in the joint ".


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i find i always get lots of bubbles in the mix from proroc. maybe i just suck at mixing but i don't get that problem with CGC. i like smell of proroc.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I guess this has been mentioned before, but if you want a mud that don't pock, try "G" nud from magnun, or R-11 from magnum, r-11 is more exspensive but none the better,,,, usually hand finishers buy it cause they think that slower and more exspensive is better,,,,,,,

Lord forgive me for that one !!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I guess this has been mentioned before, but if you want a mud that don't pock, try "G" nud from magnun, or R-11 from magnum, r-11 is more exspensive but none the better,,,, usually hand finishers buy it cause they think that slower and more exspensive is better,,,,,,,
> 
> Lord forgive me for that one !!


No your right,we have a company here called CGC.It is owned by USG.I don't know if their making the exact same products,(maybe they are) But they make a product called machine mud.In general,I find the machine tapers hate it well the hand tapers love it.It's more expensive too.
But you stand alone on the" slower" comment,not getting involved:jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> But you stand alone on the" slower" comment,not getting involved:jester:


 How many times have you heard hand finishers say "slow down, take your time, and do the job right"

I take exception to that,,,,,, I figure :
1) If your a pro,,, why should you have to SLOW down????
2) If your a pro,,,, will slowing down make you btter???
3) If your a pro,,, you already know how to do the job right


Why is being slow a sign of competence???


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> ProRoc yellow for taping and blue for the rest. Just like it says " Best mud in the joint ".


Yuck. I told a general I'd use up a couple of boxes of that stuff he had laying around. I had to make 4-5 passes over the mud on my bead to get the pocks _mostly _gone. I'll never use the stuff again, I promise. :boy scout smiley:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Yuck. I told a general I'd use up a couple of boxes of that stuff he had laying around. I had to make 4-5 passes over the mud on my bead to get the pocks _mostly _gone. I'll never use the stuff again, I promise. :boy scout smiley:


which one though,yellow is for taping,blue is a all purpose,so if you used yellow to coat with...........well


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> which one though,yellow is for taping,blue is a all purpose,so if you used yellow to coat with...........well


I used blue. I think it was an all purpose, but I don't remember. I will say this though...it is nothing like Beadex light topping. Beadex is really delicate, but it coats out like a wet dream.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

capt-sheetrock said:


> i guess this has been mentioned before, but if you want a mud that don't pock, try "g" nud from magnun, or r-11 from magnum, r-11 is more exspensive but none the better,,,, usually hand finishers buy it cause they think that slower and more exspensive is better,,,,,,,
> 
> lord forgive me for that one !!


your forgiven capt.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> How many times have you heard hand finishers say "slow down, take your time, and do the job right"
> 
> I take exception to that,,,,,, I figure :
> 1) If your a pro,,, why should you have to SLOW down????
> ...


CAPT the last thing i want to do is open a can of worms HERE! but , and here i go. in this area ,the g/cs hate machines. the drywall contractors in richmond pull a guy off the steet. hand him a tapper and some boxes , and say here, go to work. i'm lookin at buyin em now. i have a good name . if i tell my g/cs not to worry. let me give it a try they will. it,s the ones that don't care. that makes us ALL look bad.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Yuck. I told a general I'd use up a couple of boxes of that stuff he had laying around. I had to make 4-5 passes over the mud on my bead to get the pocks _mostly _gone. I'll never use the stuff again, I promise. :boy scout smiley:


Are you machine or hand ? Do you add too much water ? I coat by hand and use the blue mixed real well with no water on first coat for beads. I find it also helps to apply the mud in one direction and finish it in the opposite direction to eliminate fish eyes.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Why is being slow a sign of competence???


Because the painters started doing it :yes::jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> CAPT the last thing i want to do is open a can of worms HERE! but , and here i go. in this area ,the g/cs hate machines. the drywall contractors in richmond pull a guy off the steet. hand him a tapper and some boxes , and say here, go to work. i'm lookin at buyin em now. i have a good name . if i tell my g/cs not to worry. let me give it a try they will. it,s the ones that don't care. that makes us ALL look bad.


everyone is willing to help
how are you installing you tape at this present time.
I would not go nuts and buy a whole whack of tools,make a slow progression .They can lose you money at 1st.and cost you your good name.
so,,,installing tape how?????


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## muddermankc (Apr 6, 2009)

magnum lightning,light weight,good mud. Years ago i liked plus3 but somethings different bout it now,feels like its setting to long or something


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

mudslingr said:


> Are you machine or hand ? Do you add too much water ? I coat by hand and use the blue mixed real well with no water on first coat for beads. I find it also helps to apply the mud in one direction and finish it in the opposite direction to eliminate fish eyes.


Most of my work is by hand, and I add very little water, just enough to get it to the consistency that works best for my hawk, and won't cause my trowel to hump due to being too thick. I think I'm just spoiled by how creamy the Beadex light topping is. The mud didn't give me any other problems, aside from what I consider to be extreme pocking. I suppose we all just get used to working with a particular product, and then when we have to switch it seems like everything goes crazy.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> everyone is willing to help
> how are you installing you tape at this present time.
> I would not go nuts and buy a whole whack of tools,make a slow progression .They can lose you money at 1st.and cost you your good name.
> so,,,installing tape how?????


i tape butts @ seams with ss 90 min. and that will never change. so no machine taping for me . thinking of boxes for log seams ,ceilings,/ walls ,.angles / dip @ roll . it's slow . but strait lines. i'm an old dog. have my ways .


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

you should look at this http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Flushers
and http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Compound-Applicators
and http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Compound-Tubes
you can still use your hotmuds too,you old dog
no sense getting boxes if you tape with hotmuds


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> Yuck. I told a general I'd use up a couple of boxes of that stuff he had laying around. I had to make 4-5 passes over the mud on my bead to get the pocks _mostly _gone. I'll never use the stuff again, I promise. :boy scout smiley:


that has always been my experience with proroc. so many people out here use it though that i sometimes wonder if they know something i don't about it. i guess i'll just keep using what works for me.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I just went back to ProRoc green for finish from months of using all the Synko (CGC) brands here, and I regret not sticking with ProRoc. It's much softer to sand now, which can be a good thing, but it makes so much better of a finished product, with less effort. Every time.

The biggest thing I have against Synko right now is this; finishers say it shrinks back less, but I'm finding that ProRoc shrinks NOW. Synko shrinks later. Weeks later. Not cool.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

were behind the times here. ss 90/usg/ruco hot muds are my only choices . to pick one, I'd say n/g ss 20/45/90 . ruco 20- workin time 10 min/ ruco45 - 30 min/ ruco 90 - 45 min. the rest are what they say. ruco gotta go FAST. smooth though. fine powder, takes alot of water for mix. they all have to be completely dry/ cure. before toppin with a/p. or there will be bubbles. unless your going over paint. they ALL bubble up over paint.


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## screwyardwork (Jan 26, 2011)

usg greentop is the one for me.hand finish only these days


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## rebel20 (Jun 4, 2009)

they all have to be completely dry/ cure. before toppin with a/p. or there will be bubbles. unless your going over paint. they ALL bubble up over paint.







[/QUOTE]

Maybe ya should have waited on this post till the Vario was tested you quoted no bubbles. and to let ya know try the vario over paint you will be suprised.

rebel


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## 1/2 irish (Nov 21, 2010)

*USG Green Bucket - The best..*

Definitely the USG Green Bucket compound. Screwyardwork you and me think alike, for all coats and still work by hands. I like the consistency of this compound "mash potatoes", I can feel the mud when using the knives & trowels. I've tried the lightweight type but the darn stuff slides right off the hawk. And for "hot-mud" I dislike having to mix anything, water, mixing drills, a working time limit on the usage, a mess from my helpers, cleaning buckets & tools, just give me a bucket & I am off & running. All our tapers uses USG Green Label compound, open the buckets and never look back!!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

rebel20 said:


> they all have to be completely dry/ cure. before toppin with a/p. or there will be bubbles. unless your going over paint. they ALL bubble up over paint.


Maybe ya should have waited on this post till the Vario was tested you quoted no bubbles. and to let ya know try the vario over paint you will be suprised.

rebel[/QUOTE]
I DID . it's the sh$t. i love the stuff. i want 30 lb bags. when?


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## [email protected] (Dec 23, 2008)

Rebel, I turned Joe at Holmes onto your Vario thread. You may be hearing from him pretty soon.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

rebel
I tried convincing the guy we work for to try your product.(he's got largest company in London)but to no avail , he always says no .Another taper and I were willing to try it on one of our cold winter garages too.That would be a good test for it here in canuck Land.
If it is ok with the Mods,here is a link where you can send info on your product http://www.interiorbuild.com/ .Put attention Brian Tessier on you fax or email.They always are willing to market new products.Rhardman from here (DWT) deals with them too.Just mention drywall talk,he knows of it,and you can PM for my real name so Brian can know who referred you ,he knows me well ,(then I might get a free bag then)
Sent the big Boss here (DWT) to read about it too,Now here comes here once and a while to check it out ,he says I yak too much on here,just like in the real world.So see Rebel,I tried to help you out ,and now I got to watch what I say on here now.
The company I work for is the greatest in the world :whistling2:


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## rebel20 (Jun 4, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> Rebel, I turned Joe at Holmes onto your Vario thread. You may be hearing from him pretty soon.


Thanks, I will keep an eye out 

rebel


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## rebel20 (Jun 4, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> rebel
> I tried convincing the guy we work for to try your product.(he's got largest company in London)but to no avail , he always says no .Another taper and I were willing to try it on one of our cold winter garages too.That would be a good test for it here in canuck Land.
> If it is ok with the Mods,here is a link where you can send info on your product http://www.interiorbuild.com/ .Put attention Brian Tessier on you fax or email.They always are willing to market new products.Rhardman from here (DWT) deals with them too.Just mention drywall talk,he knows of it,and you can PM for my real name so Brian can know who referred you ,he knows me well ,(then I might get a free bag then)
> Sent the big Boss here (DWT) to read about it too,Now here comes here once and a while to check it out ,he says I yak too much on here,just like in the real world.So see Rebel,I tried to help you out ,and now I got to watch what I say on here now.
> The company I work for is the greatest in the world :whistling2:


2buck next time shoot me a pm that way you won't have to worry about rules. Thanks for the info 

By the way that avitar of yours is really starting to heart my eye's think you could change it?:whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


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