# First time on 10" box tomorrow. Some questions



## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Well, it's time to run my new boxes for the first time tomorrow. From what I've seen on videos most run all the flats first then the butts? Still not sure on mud thickness (for pump) or settings for the first coat box run. Thinking maybe a setting of 2 would be ok for first coat? Have seen people double up on butts the first time and also others who just run a single down the center. Does it matter how a person runs the first coat butts? Also not sure about clean-up at the end of the day for the pump and box. Can I just submerge the box in a pail of water until I need to use it again? With the pump I'm thinking just pumping water though it should be good? Do I need to lube the box at all with anything? Seen a video where a person sprayed his box with something but could not tell what it was. 

*WISH ME LUCK!! *


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

There are a lot of variables involved here so I can only tell you what works for me. As far as mix is concerned I start with about 24 oz. of water per bucket keeping in mind I like to run pretty thick. You will probably want to add more but do it incrementally until you find what works for you. If you soup it up too much you will have a mess on your hands. As far as settings go, running at 2 will probably leave too much of a crown. All boxes run different so I suggest running a flat and then knife check it and adjust accordingly. I run flats first then butts. I split butts because you want to build out the sides not hump the tape more. I run a bigger crown when splitting butts than running flats to leave more mud, For clean up I run clean water through the pump and spray off the outside. I do leave pumps and boxes in water from time to time and have not had any issues but I like to start with clean tools so I clean them every day. Lube the wiper gasket and wheels on your boxes daily. You can use cooking oil, motor oil, or spray lubricants. Manufacturers discourage using WD-40 because it is a solvent and can deteriorate rubber. I use it and have never had any problems. Hope this helps. Good luck Oldtimer!


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

gopherstateguy said:


> As far as mix is concerned I start with about 24 oz. of water per bucket keeping in mind I like to run pretty thick.


I don't know what kind of mud can take that much water and still be "thick", nothing I get.
I let the air bubble tell me when it's good. 
When I mix, I stop the mixer with the paddle at the bottom of the bucket and wait for the air to surface. 
For first coat I like the air bubble to stand up and roll over but not lay down. 
The bubble tells all!:yes:
Good luck Oldtimer!


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

Consistency is one of those variables. Our box mud from the supplier is a lot stiffer than the same product from home depot. I can spin a bucket from depot with no water and it's too runny to box.I guess I should have mentioned that.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

As the others have mentioned, every box is different. Pick a setting, run a few and check them with a good flat knife. The setting you choose will also depend on the mud that you use. If you use AP, you'll want to coat a little heavy, so it will shrink flat. The stuff I use (Lafarge Rapid Coat) doesn't shrink much at all, so I adjust to as flat as I can get my box. Erring on the side of slightly (and I do mean slightly) overfull on the first coat. A quick brush in between coats, and then I'll make sure my 12" is FLAT!

As for butts, I generally split them, but I have had success just running it like a flat. Adjusting the box until it buries the tape. Then pull the sides on skim day. 

Clean up, I run about 20 pumps of water thru my pump and nozzle, and brush off the outside. The boxes I'll brush of the outside, stick the entire box in a bucket of water, and open and close the lid several times, this sucks water into the box and flushes most of the remaining mud out. They are then good enough until the next job or until I get home and hose them off.

If you don't have one already, get yourself a bucket heater. The hot water makes cleaning the tools a snap. Just don't let the water get too hot, 'lest you burn your digits. (Mine will boil a bucket of water) Also, the super hot water has a tendency to melt plastic tools, ask P.A. ROCKER!!


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## GreatLakesTools (Feb 27, 2015)

We run 10" dead flat with USG +3. Setting #3-#4 depending on compound consistency, and more so flat box manufacturer. Each mfg's crown on the blade housing is a little different. Like the guys said, check it with a good knife. Running too much crown will cause compound to "spill over". My philosophy on clean up is the time we save in running tapping tools leaves us with plenty of time to clean up. Joint compound will eat the anodize right off your tools if left repeatedly for prolonged periods of time. I wouldn't make a habit of prolonged soaking. The cleaner you keep them, the longer they will last. WD rust release is safe on rubber. I use a bearing lubricant that the folks at Northstar turned me on to!


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Thanks guys. I'll be running Synko Lite-line AP for coating. I'll play around with the mud consistency and see what works. The boxes are the Level5 brand. I'll start maybe with a 3 setting and knife check it so there's not too much of a crown on it. Never knew AP shrank more than other muds. Good to know  A water soak will probably work for me until the job is done and I'll give them a good cleaning when I get them home.


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

Hey Oldtimer, I think I read on here somewhere that the definition of AP differs regionally. Around here AP is heavy glue mud for taping like USG green or Proform black, which shrinks noticeably like fr8 mentioned. If you are coating with a lightweight mud it should be less of an issue.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> Thanks guys. I'll be running Synko Lite-line AP for coating. I'll play around with the mud consistency and see what works. The boxes are the Level5 brand. I'll start maybe with a 3 setting and knife check it so there's not too much of a crown on it. Never knew AP shrank more than other muds. Good to know  A water soak will probably work for me until the job is done and I'll give them a good cleaning when I get them home.


need mud mixed just a ity bity under skim coat mud (hand Coat)
slide a penny right under the middle of the blade, should snug to blade.

then run tight, hold edge of trowel into wet flat should just dig in, those are for warm houses, can thicken in colder weather, my 12 box leaves just a slight skim over 10, if you flash blade tight its harder to sand, 
make sure to never run pump dry and let soak in water, while you set up, my pump went through retiring an ole fella, then new piston, just changed piston, from 2000 to 2015, just last week:thumbsup:

I brush to clean swish clean, pressing box in water pail, leave till next run then soak in sink in morning, leave a bit of water in it put on floor of car upsidedown, drop in pail at work, swish pressing in water, fill for prime, squeeze out in mud pail pump and run


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

gopherstateguy said:


> Hey Oldtimer, I think I read on here somewhere that the definition of AP differs regionally. Around here AP is heavy glue mud for taping like USG green or Proform black, which shrinks noticeably like fr8 mentioned. If you are coating with a lightweight mud it should be less of an issue.


 Thanks gopherstateguy, AP for me just means All Purpose and yes it's a light weight mud.


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> need mud mixed just a ity bity under skim coat mud (hand Coat)
> slide a penny right under the middle of the blade, should snug to blade.
> 
> then run tight, hold edge of trowel into wet flat should just dig in, those are for warm houses, can thicken in colder weather, my 12 box leaves just a slight skim over 10, if you flash blade tight its harder to sand,
> ...


 Thanks Joe..some good info :thumbsup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

I never clean out a pump!
Sits in a pail of water! No need to empty:thumbsup:
Settings all differ from box to box, Try running it on the board not a joint in dif settings to give u an idea what crown its leaving!


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## loudcry184 (Jan 26, 2014)

When I run my boxes I make sure that they leave a slight crown. Check it with a 12 inch knife or trowel. If it leaves a slight line across the seem then its good. When the mud dries it shrinks so it will dry flat or slightly hollow. Same principle with a 12 inch box. The trick is to make sure that the knife or trowel leaves a slight line and not deep line.


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Well I think it went as well as could be expected for me today. A few issues though. I was having a problem with the brake on the box handle, not sure if it was just me or the brake. It would release (let go) at times before I let go of it or not engage at all. The box settings were another issue. I started with a "2" which did not leave enough mud on the flat, then a "1" which was better but could still see "some" tape so ended up running all the flats wide open. I did check them with a flat knife and got a slight line in the fresh coat so they should be ok once dry. I am just a bit confused as to why I needed to run the box wide open like that. I hand tape all the joints so those flat bevels do have a good initial fill. Had a bit more success as the day wore on but I'm still a rookie, so it will take some time to figure things out.

All in all I got a lot more done today compared to the normal pan and knife hand coating I did. Still have garage high ceilings (12 foot) and the cathedral main ceiling for flats, then it's butt time.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Oldtimer said:


> Well I think it went as well as could be expected for me today. A few issues though. I was having a problem with the brake on the box handle, not sure if it was just me or the brake. It would release (let go) at times before I let go of it or not engage at all. The box settings were another issue. I started with a "2" which did not leave enough mud on the flat, then a "1" which was better but could still see "some" tape so ended up running all the flats wide open. I did check them with a flat knife and got a slight line in the fresh coat so they should be ok once dry. I am just a bit confused as to why I needed to run the box wide open like that. I hand tape all the joints so those flat bevels do have a good initial fill. Had a bit more success as the day wore on but I'm still a rookie, so it will take some time to figure things out.
> 
> All in all I got a lot more done today compared to the normal pan and knife hand coating I did. Still have garage high ceilings (12 foot) and the cathedral main ceiling for flats, then it's butt time.


Maybe you have something sticking a bit with the handle brake(?) My Columbia extendable handle can do that, if I don't lubricate the brake mechanism every once in awhile. Could try giving the brake mechanism a shot of WD40.

You can put a curve into the blade by putting a clamp to it and leave it sit for a bit. I did that with a couple 2 TT Power Assist boxes I picked up awhile ago for certain things. Things were straight even on the 0 setting. My Columbias didn't need that.

I'll usually run my box blades flat for 1st coat - 4 setting for my boxes - boxing things out and then boxing them again 20-30 minutes later, rather than re-boxing them right away or running a knife on them right away. You'll get a smooth surface and not one shrunk back unevenly, that needs just a skiff sand to get ready for the last box coat or hand coat, if you're doing the last one by hand. A skim coat for last coat should be all that's needed, then - except for the areas where the board isn't flush enough and you have to do some hand coating to fill and feather things out better.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> I never clean out a pump!
> Sits in a pail of water! No need to empty:thumbsup:
> Settings all differ from box to box, Try running it on the board not a joint in dif settings to give u an idea what crown its leaving!


gets crunchies inside and is hard on piston, also makes rubber soft, not sure if that's a good idea, might be wrong,

if you set box with a penny then its always the same, so its a no brainer how much to sand as your mind and body are conditioned to the same run of the box, even after blade change


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> Well I think it went as well as could be expected for me today. A few issues though. I was having a problem with the brake on the box handle, not sure if it was just me or the brake. It would release (let go) at times before I let go of it or not engage at all. The box settings were another issue. I started with a "2" which did not leave enough mud on the flat, then a "1" which was better but could still see "some" tape so ended up running all the flats wide open. I did check them with a flat knife and got a slight line in the fresh coat so they should be ok once dry. I am just a bit confused as to why I needed to run the box wide open like that. I hand tape all the joints so those flat bevels do have a good initial fill. Had a bit more success as the day wore on but I'm still a rookie, so it will take some time to figure things out.
> 
> All in all I got a lot more done today compared to the normal pan and knife hand coating I did. Still have garage high ceilings (12 foot) and the cathedral main ceiling for flats, then it's butt time.


as said every box is different and yes a slight line is what you should get, as for the handle what kind is it needs adjusting by the sound of things


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Been running a bit of water through my pump at the end of the day, brush clean the outside exposed areas and just sit in water pail until next day. I am getting a bit of mud showing up on the back side of the box where the back plate pivots when pressing on the box handle. Easy clean up after but didn't expect mud to appear there.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> Been running a bit of water through my pump at the end of the day, brush clean the outside exposed areas and just sit in water pail until next day. I am getting a bit of mud showing up on the back side of the box where the back plate pivots when pressing on the box handle. Easy clean up after but didn't expect mud to appear there.


 if it squeezes out the back then the rubber is baked and you should return it if its band new


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## loudcry184 (Jan 26, 2014)

Perhaps I am a little too clean but I always clean out my pumps, and all my other tools, and spray them with slick 50. I had one pump for 12 years and never replaced a part and my boxes for the same length of time and only replaced blades.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Oldtimer said:


> Been running a bit of water through my pump at the end of the day, brush clean the outside exposed areas and just sit in water pail until next day. I am getting a bit of mud showing up on the back side of the box where the back plate pivots when pressing on the box handle. Easy clean up after but didn't expect mud to appear there.


Happens from time to time. A strategically placed bead of silicone should fix that.

The boxes are adjustable. 

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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Http://youtu.be/BLmJ_GXTkic

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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

fr8train said:


> Http://youtu.be/BLmJ_GXTkic
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


 Thanks fr8! That's exactly the type of video I needed.:thumbsup: Had no idea how to adjust anything on the box. Some experienced machine tapers should make more videos like this to help out us rookies :thumbup:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Look around on YouTube. They're out there.

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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

fr8train said:


> Look around on YouTube. They're out there.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


 Have gone through many pages looking for such videos with not much luck. Must be using the wrong search words I guess :blink:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Found this one, not sure if it's the handle that you have.
https://youtu.be/n9QpZChXsKc


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

On YouTube look for

ColumbiaTapingTools
BelmoreTools
WallboardTools


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

Been doing ok running horizontal flats and ceiling joints, but running the vertical butt joints not so much. Ended up coating most by hand. Need a lot more practice I guess


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

What problems are you having?

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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

fr8train said:


> What problems are you having?
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk



Seems tougher getting a good push on the box to get a good coat and also the brake issue with the extendable handle. Not sure if the brake thing is me or the handle with it not engaging. Can't get the timing right sometimes when I want to lift the box away from the wall at the end of a joint. Well, off to work, will check in later


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

One of the channels I posted had a vid for adjusting the level 5 handle

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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Also, how heavy is your mud?

Having trouble with high butts or low butts?


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

fr8train said:


> Also, how heavy is your mud?
> 
> Having trouble with high butts or low butts?
> 
> ...


 Mud is just a tad thicker than finish coat mud. I'd have to say the lower ones give me the most grief. Turning the box around and working from the floor up. With the high ones it's just the amount of push coming from the ceiling corner down to flat. Getting the box braked and away from the wall without digging into the flat is hit and miss for me


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> Mud is just a tad thicker than finish coat mud. I'd have to say the lower ones give me the most grief. Turning the box around and working from the floor up. With the high ones it's just the amount of push coming from the ceiling corner down to flat. Getting the box braked and away from the wall without digging into the flat is hit and miss for me


try running a tad slower on butts and, your mud may be just a tad to thick, as I run and brake like Fred Flinstone coming home on the freeway


handle should grip if set right,

if ya got an Iphone make us a video of your running box and brake, so we would see and


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

I'll try and get a short video on the next job. Done with the boxes on this one. Just have to skim screws and run the angle box then final sand. Painter will come in and prime/top coat and I will come back and texture. Job done.


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

fr8train said:


> On YouTube look for
> 
> ColumbiaTapingTools
> BelmoreTools
> ...



And check out mudslingr, gazman152, precision taping and philippe allaire those guys are pros and great at explaining things out they have taught me alot 


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Sweendog87 said:


> And check out mudslingr, gazman152, precision taping and philippe allaire those guys are pros and great at explaining things out they have taught me alot
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This is suppose to be an all pro site but I question that all the time.

Pros that I know are in business and are competitive and with this said you can't always believe what you see on here to be beneficial. 

There is always more then one way to skin a cat and your best to over look the bought users on here because it boils down to selling you something you really might not need. JS....

I could think of a man or two on here that's had that motive :yes:


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Well I think there legends and some a half way across the world and help me more than my boss and I'm not a pro does that mean I shouldn't be in this site crock of chit mate 


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Sweendog87 said:


> Well I think there legends and some a half way across the world and help me more than my boss and I'm not a pro does that mean I shouldn't be in this site crock of chit mate
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You ain't met Mud Star yet? Don't take him personally ...He means well.. I think he was referring to some you tube subscribers lean on certain tool and product manufactures .. And push those products .. Where as some drywall contractors may not agree with the process/tools or materials .


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> if ya got an Iphone make us a video of your running box and brake, so we would see and


It's been 5 years Joe. Have you ever posted a pic or Vid of your work?


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

That's just MudStar being himself. Not happy unless he's bashing someone or something! Lol

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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Fair enough 


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

fr8train said:


> That's just MudStar being himself. Not happy unless he's bashing someone or something! Lol
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk


Not true about bashing but telling truths of what I have experienced on this site from the beginning and you've seen this as well I'm sure.

But I will say is that this forum has rules that for some reason are not respected at times.

Peace


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Sweendog87 said:


> Well I think there legends and some a half way across the world and help me more than my boss and I'm not a pro does that mean I shouldn't be in this site crock of chit mate
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Its not the site at all its some of the people that post on it and if they suggest a product that they have benefited from in the form of payment in products then they have broken the rules would you not think. 

If your in the the trade as a profession then your a professional wouldn't you think.

:yes:


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> try running a tad slower on butts and, your mud may be just a tad to thick, as I run and brake like Fred Flinstone coming home on the freeway
> 
> 
> handle should grip if set right,
> ...


I remember this guy goggles pizano 
LMAO

https://www.google.ca/search?q=gogg...v&ved=0ahUKEwi2vbmIpKXJAhUK1R4KHdfdAHYQsAQIGg


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> Its not the site at all its some of the people that post on it and if they suggest a product that they have benefited from in the form of payment in products then they have broken the rules would you not think.
> 
> If your in the the trade as a profession then your a professional wouldn't you think.
> 
> :yes:



Ahahaha, I have posted 8 labelled tool vids in 4 years, They sent me 3 and one I returned because it was a demo tool, I paid for the rest..........Becouse I wanted them.....And They work very well, And it may help others if I do a short clip. I guess that's something you cant comprehend.......Oh Im such a law breaker reaping massive gains for my clips. 

Mudstar, Your unbelievable?? 

Just chill dude, No one is gaining tools or making any money, Your not missing out.

Peace


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Yeah I bleat on all day about how good fibafuse is but I haven't had a free roll yet :glare:
I've had free tools sent to me in the past and I've given an honest opinion.....Afterall they've already given me the tool so doesn't matter what I say does it?  
If there's something I don't like about a free tool then I'll say, I've been given tools that had problems and I've spoken out about it. 
So no....I wouldn't class my tool reviews as "BOUGHT"......only a tool would think that :sneaky2:


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

cazna said:


> Ahahaha, I have posted 8 labelled tool vids in 4 years, They sent me 3 and one I returned because it was a demo tool, I paid for the rest..........Becouse I wanted them.....And They work very well, And it may help others if I do a short clip. I guess that's something you cant comprehend.......Oh Im such a law breaker reaping massive gains for my clips.
> 
> Mudstar, Your unbelievable??
> 
> ...



Hey caz what's your YouTube name 


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> Ahahaha, I have posted 8 labelled tool vids in 4 years, They sent me 3 and one I returned because it was a demo tool, I paid for the rest..........Becouse I wanted them.....And They work very well, And it may help others if I do a short clip. I guess that's something you cant comprehend.......Oh Im such a law breaker reaping massive gains for my clips.
> 
> Mudstar, Your unbelievable??
> 
> ...


I never stated anything about you with the issue that I have brought forward about how some are on here to sell and are compensated in doing so. 

There has been people on here selling tools

You know what Assuming  is


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I never stated anything about you with the issue that I have brought forward about how some are on here to sell and are compensated in doing so.
> 
> There has been people on here selling tools
> 
> You know what Assuming is


 
Of course your going to say that.

How could I not think you were taking a shot at me..................That's all you have done since I joined................I really should just go back to not engaging in conversation with you like I did for a few years, Maybe I shouldn't give a rats A$$??

But where I come from arrogance and rudeness is not cool, Not cool at all.

If someones keen enough to try a seek info to better them selves, To make a living, To pay there way and grow and support a family im not going to be a C**T about it.

Peace.


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

But where I come from arrogance and rudeness is not cool, Not cool at all.

If someones keen enough to try a seek info to better them selves, To make a living, To pay there way and grow and support a family im not going to be a C**T about it.

Peace.[/QUOTE]


That's why I had a shot in the first place 


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

cazna said:


> But where I come from arrogance and rudeness is not cool, Not cool at all.


And here some want Arrogance and Rudeness to be president!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> Of course your going to say that.
> 
> How could I not think you were taking a shot at me..................That's all you have done since I joined................I really should just go back to not engaging in conversation with you like I did for a few years, Maybe I shouldn't give a rats A$$??
> 
> ...


I'm guessing his main shot Is at Moose boy. But I'm certain Brian doesn't make chit off his tool vids . I'm sure He gets a few perks,, but That's probably about It.

I will say this tho!! If I was ever in a fox hole and needed backup ...I'd want you right in there with me Cazna!! :yes:


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

I have to say that I cannot believe how threads like this get off-track from the original post. It is very disappointing to see. My point of view is that the* Moderators in this forum* should take a more active roll with this type of thing and *delete these posts* so the original post can get back on track. Seeing the petty bickering is upsetting to say the least. Agree to disagree and move on. :furious:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> I have to say that I cannot believe how threads like this get off-track from the original post. It is very disappointing to see. My point of view is that the* Moderators in this forum* should take a more active roll with this type of thing and *delete these posts* so the original post can get back on track. Seeing the petty bickering is upsetting to say the least. Agree to disagree and move on. :furious:


If that were the case every other thread would be closed as soon as it started . Unlike other forums ..:whistling2: We have freedom here! 


It's your thread ! Throw It back on track!! :thumbsup:

Most of us here don't need advice . Were just here to shoot the chit and tell each other how wrong we are . This Is mainly because no one at home want's to hear It!


Maybe you need to run up to the gas station old timer and get something... You seem a little Irritable !!


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## Oldtimer (May 6, 2015)

moore said:


> If that were the case every other thread would be closed as soon as it started . Unlike other forums ..:whistling2: We have freedom here!
> 
> 
> It's your thread ! Throw It back on track!! :thumbsup:
> ...


 morre, I've seen my fair share of "Drama" when I spent all those years working with crews on commercial jobs. Just don't want to see it in the threads I post. I post them so I can get help from you all. I don't want to have to read through posts that have nothing to do with what my thread was about. It's a waste of time. I have learned a lot form you all in my short time here (THANKS!), but maybe it's time to move on. Just not the kind of environment I want to be part of.

Wish you all the best!:thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Oh My!


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

see it how 2burrito put it, the guy never held back and chased a scott out rassing him bout his skirt, look at fatty Daves pal come in here throwing his fat around making a freaking goof out of himself, and the moose boy thing, what about that made in the usa and owned by ? jog your memory, hurl em I can swing back, Gaz knows these lyrics Im sure Dog Eat Dog......

one Moore thing Hey Moore up yours for calling me a cheecano the first day......

Thats how it goes....


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

moore said:


> It's been 5 years Joe. Have you ever posted a pic or Vid of your work?


will post soon Moe, just need to get another cord, for me camera, bout the only reason I will post is cause you and Gaz got into breedn dingos and I on the Looksee


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> morre, I've seen my fair share of "Drama" when I spent all those years working with crews on commercial jobs. Just don't want to see it in the threads I post. I post them so I can get help from you all. I don't want to have to read through posts that have nothing to do with what my thread was about. It's a waste of time. I have learned a lot form you all in my short time here (THANKS!), but maybe it's time to move on. Just not the kind of environment I want to be part of.
> 
> Wish you all the best!:thumbsup:



moores at it again


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

MrWillys said:


> And here some want Arrogance and Rudeness to be president!


Don't blame me,,, I didn't vote for Obama.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

cazna said:


> Of course your going to say that.
> 
> How could I not think you were taking a shot at me..................That's all you have done since I joined................I really should just go back to not engaging in conversation with you like I did for a few years, Maybe I shouldn't give a rats A$$??
> 
> ...


Cazna your welcome to comb my posts and find where I have made you upset and take the time explain my post for you if you have a problem . My opinion is my opinion and that is all it is just as your.

peace Cazna


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> moores at it again


I didn't start anything....this thread derailed long before I said my piece.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Alright boys, I guess I need to do my job as a moderator. Please, go back on topic, or don't comment.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Alright boys, I guess I need to do my job as a moderator. Please, go back on topic, or don't comment.


Yeah. It seems like your pretty much the only one left .


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I should be a mod, Imagine it  :whistling2:

Apologies Oldtimer, Cheers Moore. Mudstar.............:notworthy:

So Oldtimer, Got the hang of that 10 box yet? Its quite an important coat isn't it, The high shoulder finder for me.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

When I started in the trade finishers only used a 7 and 10. The 12 was always done by hand with a knife.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

MrWillys said:


> When I started in the trade finishers only used a 7 and 10. The 12 was always done by hand with a knife.


That's how I do it. A light rough sand before skimming over with the 12.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Oldtimer said:


> Have gone through many pages looking for such videos with not much luck. Must be using the wrong search words I guess :blink:


just type in utube search 2buckcanuck drywall, he shows all stuff, he changed his name after I bugged him for using the handle 2burritoMexico


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Ok fellas got some issues I need some help with so I ran my 8" box today and had to adjust the screws to push edges of the blade down alot because when it was laying flat on some board the blade edges were about 5mm off the board and the middle of the blade was touching the board and I'm pretty sure it should be the other way around so I had to give each side about 5 twists to get the blade flat the whole way but I still couldn't get the middle of the blade to have a slight crown inwards so when running the box it would leave a slight crown of mud. After adjusting I ran about 5 flats fine with no edge but on the 6th the blade fell out now is this cause I adjusted the screws so much it pushed it out or could that have happend became I hit a screw or something. Anyways I pushed the blade back in forcefully and had to tape the end a bit with a hammer cause the blade was bent to keep it in there. My other issue is how much mud my setting are leaving is there a way to adjust the flow settings so they actually leave what they are meant to also should I be even needing to adjust them At all since they are brand new I thought they should be ready to go from the box? Sorry for the long post but today was very frustrating 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Here's a vid
https://youtu.be/BLmJ_GXTkic


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Cheers fr8 I will check all of those things tomorrow 
do you know why mud be spewing out the corner where the blade meets the shoe







right where his index finger is muds runs out 


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Just sounds like an adjustment to me. 

From experience, when everything is correct (mud consistency, box set-up, etc) and it still edges, the problem is the board.

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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

It is possible that when the blade popped out, it damaged the shoe.

Btw, that's my finger. 

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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Oh cool so 
When a box is set up correctly should the blade be dead flat when sitting on a peice of board or should you be able to see a small gap in the middle with no tension. 


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I think mine has a very slight crown when set on 3, it flattens out when running.

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## loudcry184 (Jan 26, 2014)

Get a new blade, sounds like yours is worn down too much


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The blade where Fr8 has his finger needs to be only a finger nail thickness above the shoe. The blade should be crowned on #0 and it should flatten out as you change the # setting and as you increase it will go the other way. An old trick with the blade is to get the edges set right have it set on # 0 then with moderate pressure run the blade back and forth on the corner of a timber stud. This will set a crown on the blade and blade holder.
When you run the box try it on #3 then do a knife check of the joint, chances are it will be a bit light but better to have to little rather than too much. After your knife check if you don't have enough mud set it to #2 and run it again, and so on.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

loudcry184 said:


> Get a new blade, sounds like yours is worn down too much


It's a brand new box! It better have come with a new blade!

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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

As the mud flows past the blade holder it will push it up, causing a crown. I wouldn't be too concerned about where the blade holder is sitting on zero, as long as it can flex. When you set the spring tension, you are not setting a curve in the blade holder that doesn't change, you are adjusting the resistance it has to flexing away from the wall.
If you vary the pressure you apply, you will vary the amount of compound applied. The harder you push, the more mud you will get.
Compound mix adds some more complexity and also has an effect on how much crown is applied.
As Gazman said, when you start with a new mix run the box for a foot then check with a knife to see how much crown you have.
When replacing a blade, be sure not to bend the blade holder. Use pliers to ease it into the groove.
If you do have a kink/bend in the blade holder, try and straighten it with the blade in as this will support it. They are quite fragile without a blade.


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

Sweendog87 said:


> Cheers fr8 I will check all of those things tomorrow
> do you know why mud be spewing out the corner where the blade meets the shoe
> 
> 
> ...


I would think because you have adjusted the blade down too far. It should sit just above the skid. Where it was when you bought it should be fine.


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

I got 14" kind of scared.


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

tomg said:


> As the mud flows past the blade holder it will push it up, causing a crown. I wouldn't be too concerned about where the blade holder is sitting on zero, as long as it can flex. When you set the spring tension, you are not setting a curve in the blade holder that doesn't change, you are adjusting the resistance it has to flexing away from the wall.
> 
> If you vary the pressure you apply, you will vary the amount of compound applied. The harder you push, the more mud you will get.
> 
> ...



Well they are brand new and they come with the blade curving outward causing the edges of the blade to be raised about 2 or three mm causing a very big edge of mud and not feathering . Also u said the blade shouldn't move when adjusting the tension well mine does its flat on 0 but if I put it in 5 it bows outward alot causing the edges to raise even more that why I had to adjust the edges of the blade down so far from the start 


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

I use 80 git. run away


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Just need to adjust it. Back the nuts off, or the brass is crowned the wrong way.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Sweendog87 from what I understand and what has been stated on this forum at one point is if this are Columbia boxes the brass is pre crowned and if there not you should remove the brass and crown it till your liking. Searching might be a great place to start there has been a lot of same information re posted over and over it shouldn't be that hard to find.....


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## Sweendog87 (Apr 5, 2015)

Mudstar said:


> Sweendog87 from what I understand and what has been stated on this forum at one point is if this are Columbia boxes the brass is pre crowned and if there not you should remove the brass and crown it till your liking. Searching might be a great place to start there has been a lot of same information re posted over and over it shouldn't be that hard to find.....



they should be pre crowned inwards but mine is crowning outwards and I shouldn't have to be doin that to a brand new box 


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## tomg (Dec 16, 2009)

Sweendog87 said:


> they should be pre crowned inwards but mine is crowning outwards and I shouldn't have to be doin that to a brand new box
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sweendog, as I said the mud pressure forces the brass blade holder and blade to flex away from the wall as it passes underneath. Thicker mud has more pressure. The harder you push, the more pressure and therefore more compound.
If the blade holder sits flat when on zero - it is fine. You cannot expect it to stay that way when you put in on a setting of five.
What matters is what happens when in use. Please put the blade setting back to 0.5mm or so and then I would suggest you look at mud consistency and technique. Please check that you have not bent the blade holder when refitting the blade. Both T2 and Blue 2 boxes have a stop machined on the actuating pins so that the blade holder can only flex outward a couple of mm. This protects the blade holder from unnecessary flexing when you set it on a high setting.
https://youtu.be/hwFHgNMZgdA


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

there is no pre crowned. jest flex.


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