# Whats a good sequence to finish a job



## HandyDrywall

When taping what is a good sequence to use ?? Like fasteners first ? or seams ? or corners ?

Please welcome me into this forum . I have just started doing drywall over the last year and very eager to see and hear from other professionals in the trade . I do the work mostly myself unless i get a large job then I will ask a friend for help . I only do drywall so i think this forum will be very good for me .


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## M T Buckets Painting

Whatever works best for you and your situation. Alot depends on the job. You may get 5 different answers from 5 different people. I switch my methods on occasion to correlate with different scenarios.


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## mudslingr

HandyDrywall said:


> When taping what is a good sequence to use ?? Like fasteners first ? or seams ? or corners ?


My sequence on install - bead,flats,butts then angles.

Coating sequence - flats,butts,bead,angles then screws

There really is no wrong or right routine like M T said. Changing this up keeps things from getting too boring.:thumbsup:


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## justadrywallguy

HandyDrywall said:


> When taping what is a good sequence to use ?? Like fasteners first ? or seams ? or corners ?
> 
> Please welcome me into this forum . I have just started doing drywall over the last year and very eager to see and hear from other professionals in the trade . I do the work mostly myself unless i get a large job then I will ask a friend for help . I only do drywall so i think this forum will be very good for me .


I am pretty sure you have the basics, just figure out a good flow for yourself. Best advice I could give you is pour thru the posts on here and pick up anything you might think as useful.:thumbsup:


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## siddle

Work in this sequence to speed the job along:
1. Fasteners
2. Tapered-edge seams
3. Butted seams
4. Inside corners
5. Outside corners
Hope this helps...


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## DSJOHN

HandyDrywall said:


> When taping what is a good sequence to use ?? Like fasteners first ? or seams ? or corners ?
> 
> Please welcome me into this forum . I have just started doing drywall over the last year and very eager to see and hear from other professionals in the trade . I do the work mostly myself unless i get a large job then I will ask a friend for help . I only do drywall so i think this forum will be very good for me .


Depends on the size of your job-- also depends on what you use for tools. On small jobs 75 sheets or smaller I install my bead 1st, any offset angle I No-Coat then tape all angles[coat screws also] using roller and flusher,then tape flats and butts.Coating ,I Mix hotmud and coat bead and butts,clean up then run angles [coating screws at same time] , 2nd coat my butts,then run flats. Next day I coat flats- fix 3 way - coat butts and bead and screws . Hope this helps!!Larger jobs I have my Apla-tech tools out for most and the sequence is a little different


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## boco

BFA

Butts
Flats (seams)
Angles.


when using metal corner bead and boards lying down I do them last so that seams are full before hand. Doesnt really matter 1st or last. but if you do BFA then you will always go right. For second coat butts, bead, seams, then angles. Angles would include any nocoat Finish coat the same. Allscrews done before I leave room when doing butts .


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## moore

mudslingr said:


> My sequence on install - bead,flats,butts then angles.
> 
> Coating sequence - flats,butts,bead,angles then screws
> 
> There really is no wrong or right routine like M T said. Changing this up keeps things from getting too boring.:thumbsup:


I do exactly the same.


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## HandyDrywall

Thank you for all the replies they were very helpful.


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## jmr

like everyone says depends on the size of the project.. 

generally i prefill everything, tape lowers, butts first, flats then angles. hop up, hit butts flats then angels. hop down. cut then stick bead. if there is enough time left in the day i'll box out or run beads if tape or bead is dry enough.. 

coating i'll box out first, then bead, screws and cretique work. 

3rd i'll box, then angle, then run beads and screws. cretique etc.


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## Checkers

First:
"V" butts, pre-fill, and screws by hand, always.
_My Reason:_ Because you ensure every screw is in, every @sshole is filled, and everything that may interfere with your taping is dealt with.

Second:
Tape butts first, then flats as I go. Not all the butts in the house, then all the flats, but as I go. I'll tape out a floor or a few units of just butts and flats and then fall back and tape my angles, roll then, and glaze them.
I then pick all my angles and fill them as square as possible as I go.

Third:
Stick all of my cornerbead and coat it as I go.
Box with my 8" Fat Boy.
Spot screws and trace box work.

Fourth:
12" Box, angles, then hand work, screws, and touch up.


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## 2buckcanuck

HandyDrywall said:


> When taping what is a good sequence to use ?? Like fasteners first ? or seams ? or corners ?
> 
> Please welcome me into this forum . I have just started doing drywall over the last year and very eager to see and hear from other professionals in the trade . I do the work mostly myself unless i get a large job then I will ask a friend for help . I only do drywall so i think this forum will be very good for me .


I hope you don't call your self handy drywall in the real world

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/wich-best-automatic-tools-combination-1452/

here is a older thread which may help you


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## 800PoundGuerrilla

Be a natural-born world-shaker.

Stratagem – a trick, scheme, or plan for achieving some purpose.
Strategy – plan for maneuvering forces into the most advantageous position prior to actual engagement with the enemy.

So much can be learned from new eyes on old subjects. To get-r-done you’ve got to get it on the wall, make it wet in a way that effectively exploits the conditions, circumstances and the limited resources that you have, and limits your drying-time. Every situation is a little bit the same and a whole lot of different. Define what that particular situation is, because … it is what it is. Adapt your strategy to the conditions taking into consideration the limited resources of time, money, energy. Leverage the full forces of your mind, body and soul, pay attention, ask a lot of questions of yourself and others, try new things, experiment, and keep track of what works and what works better in different conditions and circumstances. Every experience is Foghorn Leghorn saying “Pay attention boy… I’m talkin’ to you.” So listen to what the experience is telling you and measure everything in every way possible.

You walk on to any project and if you’re payin’ attention, if you are situational aware, you take that first deep breath, open your eyes and look a round and hear the conditional voice sayin’ … “Now, I can be a good guy, or I can be one real mean sum-bitch.” The difference in outcomes is up to you. You have a choice to seize the opportunity to capture your customer’s attention, make yourself truly memorable, and put your customer in a frame of mind that makes them want to pay you what your worth, and employ you again and again and again for that price because they look at you as a competitive advantage … a secret weapon.


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## chris

very well put:thumbup:


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## SlimPickins

Field General said:


> Be a natural-born world-shaker.
> 
> Stratagem – a trick, scheme, or plan for achieving some purpose.
> Strategy – plan for maneuvering forces into the most advantageous position prior to actual engagement with the enemy.
> 
> So much can be learned from new eyes on old subjects. To get-r-done you’ve got to get it on the wall, make it wet in a way that effectively exploits the conditions, circumstances and the limited resources that you have, and limits your drying-time. Every situation is a little bit the same and a whole lot of different. Define what that particular situation is, because … it is what it is. Adapt your strategy to the conditions taking into consideration the limited resources of time, money, energy. Leverage the full forces of your mind, body and soul, pay attention, ask a lot of questions of yourself and others, try new things, experiment, and keep track of what works and what works better in different conditions and circumstances. Every experience is Foghorn Leghorn saying “Pay attention boy… I’m talkin’ to you.” So listen to what the experience is telling you and measure everything in every way possible.
> 
> You walk on to any project and if you’re payin’ attention, if you are situational aware, you take that first deep breath, open your eyes and look a round and hear the conditional voice sayin’ … “Now, I can be a good guy, or I can be one real mean sum-bitch.” The difference in outcomes is up to you. You have a choice to seize the opportunity to capture your customer’s attention, make yourself truly memorable, and put your customer in a frame of mind that makes them want to pay you what your worth, and employ you again and again and again for that price because they look at you as a competitive advantage … a secret weapon.


You're kinda like the Sun Tzu of drywall aren't you?


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## SlimPickins

....


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## rhardman

You can always ask catzcar.


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## SlimPickins

rhardman said:


> You can always ask catzcar.


Because she's the real pro, right?


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Because she's the real pro, right?


Yes she is


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## moore

Maybe catzcar could help me out on this one.


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Maybe catzcar could help me out on this one.


I think she could moore, I see 2 brooms in the picture


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## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> I think she could moore, I see 2 brooms in the picture


:notworthy::notworthy::lol::lol:


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## betterdrywall

Get the bead on first,, Then tape out all butt joints and short joints, angles , either by Hand or with a banjo. Then you can break out the bazooka and run all the flats. If there is not enough time left, to run angles.. lay on your first coat on the metal and flats and butts . Think dry time. on this. Usually when I say bead work or hand work that will include screws. to be coated as well. angles can be done first thing next day . dry time and tape will determine what you can or cannot do.. but there is Always something you can do beside watching the mud dry. How many times have I heard that excuse from the competition..maybe thats why I am doing the work instead of them???


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## maxim

I have been to this thread a dozen times. We connected with Tape Tech to set out a standard procedure for our guys. That way if a different guy comes in to help he is not out of sync with the others.

Taping
- tape all butts and wipe
- tape all flats and wipe
- tape ceiling butts and wipe
- tape ceiling flats and wipe
- short walls and window returns
- tape inside corners
- roll bed from middle out
- clear with 2" angle or flusher (no box)
- detail 3 ways - 4" knife
- Install no Coat
- Install outside corners
- bed from middle out and wipe down

1st topping
- 2" nail spotter
- Butts - 10" box (walls then ceilings)
- Flats - 10" Box (walls then ceilings)
- Hand finish flats as required
- 2" inside with box
- detail 3 way if required 4" knife
- Outside corner - 8" knife

2nd final coat
- light sand bumps if required
- 3" nail spotter
- Butts - 12" box (walls then ceilings)
- Flats - 12" Box (walls then ceilings)
- Hand finish flats as required
- 3" inside with box
- detail 3 way if required
- Outside corner 10" knife

3rd if required
- review with light
- skim if required
- very light sand

Realistically I modify this as required based on whatever the job dictates. But this sequence does keep everyone heading in the same direction.


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## Mountain Man

I don't do it like that...must not be tape tech material!!


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## mudslingr

maxim said:


> I have been to this thread a dozen times. We connected with Tape Tech to set out a standard procedure for our guys. That way if a different guy comes in to help he is not out of sync with the others.
> 
> Taping
> - tape all butts and wipe
> - tape all flats and wipe
> - tape ceiling butts and wipe
> - tape ceiling flats and wipe
> - short walls and window returns
> - tape inside corners
> - roll bed from middle out
> - clear with 2" angle or flusher (no box)
> - detail 3 ways - 4" knife
> - Install no Coat
> - Install outside corners
> - bed from middle out and wipe down
> 
> 1st topping
> - 2" nail spotter
> - Butts - 10" box (walls then ceilings)
> - Flats - 10" Box (walls then ceilings)
> - Hand finish flats as required
> - 2" inside with box
> - detail 3 way if required 4" knife
> - Outside corner - 8" knife
> 
> 2nd final coat
> - light sand bumps if required
> - 3" nail spotter
> - Butts - 12" box (walls then ceilings)
> - Flats - 12" Box (walls then ceilings)
> - Hand finish flats as required
> - 3" inside with box
> - detail 3 way if required
> - Outside corner 10" knife
> 
> 3rd if required
> - review with light
> - skim if required
> - very light sand
> 
> Realistically I modify this as required based on whatever the job dictates. But this sequence does keep everyone heading in the same direction.


I'd like to know, what brand of "supermud" do you use that you can get away with 2 coats on screws ? 



Mountain Man said:


> I don't do it like that...must not be tape tech material!!


Nor I !:blink:


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## Pytlik

mudslingr said:


> I'd like to know, what brand of "supermud" do you use that you can get away with 2 coats on screws ?



Murco mud :yes:


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## VANMAN

Pytlik said:


> Murco mud :yes:


Plus 3!!:thumbsup:
Got some new mud ordered that has no shrinkage they say Get away with 1 coat on screws:thumbsup:
Going 2 hit a room with it with 12 box c how it comes out!!


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## mld

VANMAN said:


> Plus 3!!:thumbsup:
> Got some new mud ordered that has no shrinkage they say Get away with 1 coat on screws:thumbsup:
> Going 2 hit a room with it with 12 box c how it comes out!!


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## mudslingr

Pytlik said:


> Murco mud :yes:


Not sure if we have that in Canada. 


VANMAN said:


> Plus 3!!:thumbsup:
> Got some new mud ordered that has no shrinkage they say Get away with 1 coat on screws:thumbsup:
> Going 2 hit a room with it with 12 box c how it comes out!!


Don't count your chickens yet! I'm using Plus3 right now and CANNOT see that happening.


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## chris

We use Hamiltion LW AP for screws and we do 2 coats. We also do light hand texture on most jobs. Use the mud straight outta the box on 1rst coat and a bit soupier on the 2nd.


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## D A Drywall

I tried to get away with 2 coats on screws. First with 90 hotmud then skim with finishing. I found about 25% of screws were shallow after final sand and light check. I started to touch up where necessary then just redid all of them to be safe. Still paying for my education from the University of Hard Knocks


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## fr8train

We do the screws 3 times, it's cheap insurance, besides, once you coat then the first time and get the clickers and misses taken care of, they're the easiest part of the job.


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## moore

fr8train said:


> We do the screws 3 times, it's cheap insurance, besides, once you coat then the first time and get the clickers and misses taken care of, they're the easiest part of the job.


Ever used the L/W for all 3 coats? I've never tried It That's why I ask.


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## Philma Crevices

We use +3 - 3 coats, works well, but I insist 2 coats straight out of the box if we have a cub on screws, if not we just coat all as we go, sometimes a few will be shallow her and there


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## fr8train

Moore, the first coat is done with taping mud


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## boco

Philma Crevices said:


> We use +3 - 3 coats, works well, but I insist 2 coats straight out of the box if we have a cub on screws, if not we just coat all as we go, sometimes a few will be shallow her and there


 Same here all plus 3 for screws. First coat right out of the bucket.:thumbsup: . Its pretty soft so you may need sand with a finer grit. If you use a porter cable keep a sponge with you for around the outlets. IE try to avoid ripping paper


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## D A Drywall

fr8train said:


> Moore, the first coat is done with taping mud


I found my taping mud shrinks back too much so now I go 3 coats L/W. Then a light scrubbing with 150 sponge


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## boco

D A Drywall said:


> I found my taping mud shrinks back too much so now I go 3 coats L/W. Then a light scrubbing with 150 sponge


 Wow you do all your screws by hand. Try a flex edge.


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## maxim

Mountain Man said:


> I don't do it like that...must not be tape tech material!!


I'd modify in a minute if there is a better procedure! What do you do different??


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## D A Drywall

boco said:


> Wow you do all your screws by hand. Try a flex edge.


Is a flex edge that much better than an average pole sander head


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## thefinisher

Still have yet to see any mud cover correctly in 2 coats. Maybe 2 coats with hot mud would do it...


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## VANMAN

D A Drywall said:


> Is a flex edge that much better than an average pole sander head


They sure r!!:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN

thefinisher said:


> Still have yet to see any mud cover correctly in 2 coats. Maybe 2 coats with hot mud would do it...


I have done some amount of houses now and no complaints!:whistling2:


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## nd636

Screws and fill
Bead
Butts then flats on ceiling 
Butts then flats on walls
All angles
I coat the same way 
I do the ceilings first so if something drips it doesn't end up on something I coated.
I tape all flats and butts first since I work alone a lot of times I can't make it through over a hundred boards with taping angles at the same time so the second day I will finish taping angles then run the boxes.


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## fr8train

What's the benefit of a flex-edge over a standard pole sander? I use a BTE pole with Joest paper, best paper for poling angles I've found so far!


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## Kiwiman

fr8train said:


> What's the benefit of a flex-edge over a standard pole sander? I use a BTE pole with Joest paper, best paper for poling angles I've found so far!


I think it's probably the soft foam backing that makes the difference, they are brilliant on softer muds for not leaving any edge lines etc, I won't use anything else for finishing level 5, when using a flexedge on angles I trim the back edge of the pad so it doesn't mark the other side of the angle.


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## Alex Qualizza

clean area. set up mixing area. set up scaffolding. pre fill broken drywall or large gaps in drywall joints. use same quick setting mud that you pre filled with and spot your nails. then while pre fill is drying tape angles, roll and flush. then tape butts and flats. second coat nails and run 10 inch on flats and butts. tie in the butts and flats with knife or trowel and coat beads.


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## fr8train

We tape, block, skim, sand, pay me... LOL j/k!

Day 1
Pick apart any bad board
We tape, room by room, butts and flats, then take 5-10 min break
Angles, room by room, roll and plow as we go, take lunch (sometimes)
Stick beads and spot screws
Go home

Day 2
Box all flats, the picker is catching the short butts as we go
Coat beads and butts and screws
Go home

Day 3
Skim sand *everything*!(Except screws)
Box Flats
Run angles
Coat beads, butts, and screws
Go home

Day 4
Sand
Touch-up
Clean up
Get paid (hopefully)
Go home

That is our general way of doing things, it is of course all flexible depending on the needs of the job, time constraints, weather, etc etc.


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## VANMAN

Every job is dif about here!!:yes:
I can go from 100sqm's 2 600sqm's jobs so its all dif!! Vaults and all the other crap that comes!
I'm lucky 2 tape a house out in a day!!!:blink:


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## maxim

I had not been back to this in quite a while. 
(We definitely hit nails 3 times but missed it in the list.) There seems to be some fairly consistent practices.
I might be off on this but it seems like everyone puts the butts, flats, then inside, outside, then screws more or less in that order. My question if you do the screws first then you don't risk hitting a joint with the spotter or at the end? But it seems that many do the screws last. So, screws first or last?


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