# what mud do you all use.



## Gibstopper (Aug 30, 2012)

just a quick topic.
what mud does everyone use. we all love our own plasters, we are in New Zealand and we have usg, national gypsum, hamiltons, csr and terrible NZ made plaster....

so let me know your preferance :thumbup:


----------



## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

USG all purpose for taping and hand texture. USG +3 for coating screws, metal and joints. USG easy sand hot mud for pre-fill and patch work. Would I use something else if it was available? Maybe, but that's all we get around here so that's what I use. I get good results from those products but I would really like to try out some USG ultra lightweight.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

CGC, which is USG, and certainteed


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

CSR 
Base 45 / 60 for taping and 1st coat on beads.
Easy flow A/P for second coat. 
Ultra top for topping and skimming.


----------



## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

tape coat cgc green 

machine mud for the rest


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Tradeset 90 tape coat, sheetrock midweight 2nd & 3rd coat.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

I only have the nz mud in my small town, It costs me freight in anything else so nz mud it is. And its not that bad, Tradeset taping, Tradefinish multi, plus 4, promix the rest take your pick, all are good through the tools.


----------



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

gazman said:


> CSR
> Base 45 / 60 for taping and 1st coat on beads.
> Easy flow A/P for second coat.
> Ultra top for topping and skimming.


Was given a bucket of ultra to try ,went very well through the mud runner .I use knauf which is a pain cause they do not make a base 90 , makes it hard when useing zooker


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Was given a bucket of ultra to try ,went very well through the mud runner .I use knauf which is a pain cause they do not make a base 90 , makes it hard when useing zooker



Not having a base 90 may be a good thing.:yes: I tried Boral base 90 through the Homax once. It was late winter so it was not hot, but we lost the whole house of tapes. They looked good when we did them, but the next day you could pull one end of the tape and pull the whole length out.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> Not having a base 90 may be a good thing.:yes: I tried Boral base 90 through the Homax once. It was late winter so it was not hot, but we lost the whole house of tapes. They looked good when we did them, but the next day you could pull one end of the tape and pull the whole length out.


Really?? With a base 90?? That must have been a crook batch, No way could you do that with our 90.


----------



## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

U.S.G. only.....mid or ultralight for pre mix and easy sand 45


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Black top


----------



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Us green lid to tape. Rapid coat to finish or us plus 3


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

ProRoc yellow for taping, ProRoc blue for everything else. Not my choice thats what they drop


----------



## Whosnxt1776 (Oct 4, 2012)

Murco M-500....

http://murcowall.com/compound/


----------



## dieselman350 (Aug 21, 2012)

All we have in the U.P is USG and pro form i like both in all purpose like both in easy sand durabond but prefer pro form lite blue over USG plus 3


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

suncoast drywaller said:


> I use knauf which is a pain cause they do not make a base 90 , makes it hard when useing zooker


a year ago i worked for knauf and obviously used their materials.they do have base 90 but they call it mastalongset have a look at this link http://www.knaufplasterboard.com.au/mastalongset


----------



## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

gazman said:


> Not having a base 90 may be a good thing.:yes: I tried Boral base 90 through the Homax once. It was late winter so it was not hot, but we lost the whole house of tapes. They looked good when we did them, but the next day you could pull one end of the tape and pull the whole length out.


I agree with cazna.I don't like boral-cheap stuff and poor quality.try instead CSR 90 never had a problem. best stuff on the market


----------



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

keke said:


> a year ago i worked for knauf and obviously used their materials.they do have base 90 but they call it mastalongset have a look at this link http://www.knaufplasterboard.com.au/mastalongset


No they do not have a base 90. Longset has a working time of 65 -80 mins ,Set time of 80 mins , so this means we have to wash up after 60 mins .Would much prefer csr 90


----------



## FingerLakesAcoustics (Nov 23, 2012)

Mean Green!! USG greenlid. easy, and cheap. Its the safest compound when you use the porter bob too. I find it easier to use it bcuz that all i use!!! no sense in having a fav. that u cant always get!!! I can guarantee that 9/10 times you'll find all purpose USG.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Back using USG green for putting on the tapes then i have started mixing green and blue together for boxing! It makes for some pretty good mud when the 2 r mixed:thumbsup:


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

VANMAN said:


> Back using USG green for putting on the tapes then i have started mixing green and blue together for boxing! It makes for some pretty good mud when the 2 r mixed:thumbsup:


So how did you get on with the domestic problem Vanman? Did you manage to keep half the house? .....or more importantly, half your tools.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> So how did you get on with the domestic problem Vanman? Did you manage to keep half the house? .....or more importantly, half your tools.


Nae sure yet! Still got 2 get house valued,But she is needing £90.000 for her half:blink::blink:
I can give her half maybe at a push but that means a mortgage for the rest and not had 1 of them for years so thinking of selling up and getting a cheaper place! But i need a garage for all my tools that is the biggest problem and my cat!
Thanks for askin!:thumbsup:


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Nae sure yet! Still got 2 get house valued,But she is needing £90.000 for her half:blink::blink:
> I can give her half maybe at a push but that means a mortgage for the rest and not had 1 of them for years so thinking of selling up and getting a cheaper place! But i need a garage for all my tools that is the biggest problem and my cat!
> Thanks for askin!:thumbsup:


 I feel for ya brother!! I do!


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

moore said:


> I feel for ya brother!! I do!Delbert McClinton - She's Livin' It Up - (and i'm tryin' to live it down) - YouTube


Cheers Moore!
Its a fuc*in pain all this carry on but i will have the last laugh!!
I am not caring what she wants,if it has 2 go 2 court then bring it on! She wont want that as it will cost her heaps of cash and me being me will get leagle aid so wont cost me a penny!:whistling2:


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

moore said:


> I feel for ya brother!! I do!Delbert McClinton - She's Livin' It Up - (and i'm tryin' to live it down) - YouTube


Quality tune:yes:


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

We use Ruco middle weight for all coats of finishing and it turns out great :thumbsup: Once in a while we will use some proform multi-use but it isn't as tough as the Ruco.


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I love anything proform. I use there 5 20 45 90 all purpose. I even like there Lite weight.


----------



## Perkcon (Nov 25, 2012)

Pro Form taping lite, USG +3 , Pro Form hot mud.


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

A smooth finish said:


> I love anything proform. I use there 5 20 45 90 all purpose. I even like there Lite weight.


Big fan of their hotmud compared to Ruco's for sure, but Ruco just has a better ready mixed mud hands down.


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

thefinisher said:


> Big fan of their hotmud compared to Ruco's for sure, but Ruco just has a better ready mixed mud hands down.


We dont have ruco around here.


----------



## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Just got a promotional e-mail form USG to try there new Ultralighweight taping mud, giving away a BBQ set if you send them a receipt of purchase. Think I might pick up a box if our suppler has any left... they had flyers up discounting the price a few weeks ago cause there stock was sitting for so long 

_info.*usg*.com/ULWAP*BBQ*SetPromo_landing.*bbq*promo.html_


_Ohh... sexy, thinking it's these ones_


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

VANMAN said:


> Cheers Moore!
> Its a fuc*in pain all this carry on but i will have the last laugh!!
> I am not caring what she wants,if it has 2 go 2 court then bring it on! She wont want that as it will cost her heaps of cash and me being me will get leagle aid so wont cost me a penny!:whistling2:


----------



## Toolnut (Aug 17, 2012)

Have used the ultra lite mud to skim coat and it was great. The only thing was when I added a little water vto loosen it up(old habit) it got really sloppy. Really didn't add that much water next will try just stirring.


----------



## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

Tradeset90/45 for First and sometimes the second coat.








Promix as a topping over the Tradeset sometimes as a second coat over the tradeset as well.
And all three coats on bigger jobs. 










Cove Bond For Gibcove








Cornice Bond for small jobs and patches, things needing done quickly etc, (still have to let it dry though).


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Hey stopper, I coved a house a few weeks back, Then the kitchen guys had to remove some to fit there cabinets in and they said it was easy to get off?? I thought wtf??? They destroyed the cove getting it off so it couldnt have been that easy?? But i noticed there wasnt a lot of covebond on the back of the cove, I put plenty on, You could see a tide line where it had been so i picked some off, I couldnt believe it, It just picked it off clean and didnt tear the paper :blink: It wont fall off but that really surprised me, It was covebond 90 i used, Maybe the 90 min dryed out before it could set?? But it stuck to the wall and even on the airdry top coat seam very well, Odd isnt it???

Im still surprised you like pro mix, Heavy as hell and hard to sand, Boxes nice though and its sticky stuff so prob a good tape mud, Hang on, You have a planex dont you?? It must be a great sander then to handle that stuff.


----------



## Perkcon (Nov 25, 2012)

Started using USG Midweight, does not seem to pock as much as the USG ap +3 does. It also seems to pull better. Coats very good over tapes better than the light weight.


----------



## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

cazna said:


> Hey stopper, I coved a house a few weeks back, Then the kitchen guys had to remove some to fit there cabinets in and they said it was easy to get off?? I thought wtf??? They destroyed the cove getting it off so it couldnt have been that easy?? But i noticed there wasnt a lot of covebond on the back of the cove, I put plenty on, You could see a tide line where it had been so i picked some off, I couldnt believe it, It just picked it off clean and didnt tear the paper :blink: It wont fall off but that really surprised me, It was covebond 90 i used, Maybe the 90 min dryed out before it could set?? But it stuck to the wall and even on the air dry top coat seam very well, Odd isnt it???
> 
> I'm still surprised you like pro mix, Heavy as hell and hard to sand, Boxes nice though and its sticky stuff so prob a good tape mud, Hang on, You have a planex dont you?? It must be a great sander then to handle that stuff.


 That is odd with Covebond, So it wasn't sticking to the cove as well? that is odd, Only thing I can think of, As I sit here racking my brains, is that you're probably right about it drying out too fast, atleast right against the cove in a very thin layer, as the cove sucked the moisture out of the compound the air in the room was wicking that moisture off causing the compound to dry before it could set , on the wall side it would be shielded from drying a whole lot more and have plenty of time to set off. 

I don't sand anywhere near as fast as you guy do in your videos lol, yer Promix is harder to sand than softer muds, I use 220 grit on the planex which is nice, then go round with block and light to do the fiddly stuff.
Got that Bazooka working again with that Inox you recommended, Promix goes through the bazzoka sweet again, first couple of jobs I did I loved the bazooka but I NEVER LUBED THE TUBE!! then it all turned to **** when i tried to do the next house with it , havent used it since then till last week doing old student flats, owner impressed upon me that he want me to cut corners and stop it up fast, So i thought PERFECT! bring the bazooka out of retirement.
You can leave the mud relatively thick and it still goes through ok but is harder to wipe down. they fill the promix buckets up more than they used to which doesn't leave quite and much room for extra water.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

cazna said:


> Hey stopper, I coved a house a few weeks back, Then the kitchen guys had to remove some to fit there cabinets in and they said it was easy to get off?? I thought wtf??? They destroyed the cove getting it off so it couldnt have been that easy?? But i noticed there wasnt a lot of covebond on the back of the cove, I put plenty on, You could see a tide line where it had been so i picked some off, I couldnt believe it, It just picked it off clean and didnt tear the paper :blink: It wont fall off but that really surprised me, It was covebond 90 i used, Maybe the 90 min dryed out before it could set?? But it stuck to the wall and even on the airdry top coat seam very well, Odd isnt it???
> 
> Im still surprised you like pro mix, Heavy as hell and hard to sand, Boxes nice though and its sticky stuff so prob a good tape mud, Hang on, You have a planex dont you?? It must be a great sander then to handle that stuff.



It sure sounds like it dried before it set. We only have 45 & 60 over here and I am assuming that is because of our warmer climate. In the warmer months I wont use 60 because of that very problem. That applies to base coat as well as cove bond.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> It sure sounds like it dried before it set. We only have 45 & 60 over here and I am assuming that is because of our warmer climate. In the warmer months I wont use 60 because of that very problem. That applies to base coat as well as cove bond.


I really like the cove heads on the cp tube for applying mud to the wall then putting up dry coving, Im one man so 90 is great, Allows me to do a few rooms or a big one without to much panick, Might have to swap to 45, Thats gonna be a hassel, But as i said, The 90 stuff wont fall off, Its just not paper tearing stuck as it usually is.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> I really like the cove heads on the cp tube for applying mud to the wall then putting up dry coving, Im one man so 90 is great, Allows me to do a few rooms or a big one without to much panick, Might have to swap to 45, Thats gonna be a hassel, But as i said, The 90 stuff wont fall off, Its just not paper tearing stuck as it usually is.


I just had a thought Caz, I forgot about you using the cornice heads to apply glue, could it have something to do with how long the glue sat before you stuck the cove up? makes sense if the glue stuck to the wall and not the cove.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> I just had a thought Caz, I forgot about you using the cornice heads to apply glue, could it have something to do with how long the glue sat before you stuck the cove up? makes sense if the glue stuck to the wall and not the cove.


Good point, Those times would all be different, The instructions with the heads actually say apply mud, Then leave it for ten mins "Draw" time to tack up. Im still going to use those heads, Ive done heaps of cove now with them and never had a problem so its holding enough, Just annoying why it didnt stick as i always thought it did. I did my own place before this job, Its painted and no signs of hairline cracks at all but your right, The muds applyed to the wall first so it gets all the water, The coves then applyed to a less damp mud later on hence less bonding happens??? Maybe?? Seems silly but maybe so.

Heres a pic, Look carefully at the bottom of the cove, See the tide line, Yes thats actually were the mud was, And those remaining bits of mud can also be picked off clean. But also look at the top of the pic, See the cove with the torn away paper, As i said they destoryed it getting it off, But no way has the bond stuck as it should.


----------



## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

cazna said:


> I really like the cove heads on the cp tube for applying mud to the wall then putting up dry coving, Im one man so 90 is great, Allows me to do a few rooms or a big one without to much panick, Might have to swap to 45, Thats gonna be a hassel, But as i said, The 90 stuff wont fall off, Its just not paper tearing stuck as it usually is.


Last time I put cove up I set up a jig to rest my cove in so I could easily mud the edges with my trowel, its pretty quick doing it that way, I always use to mud the wall and used heaps more than i needed too, A plus in doing that though is that if there's more mud behind the cove theres also more moisture so its less likely to dry out before it sets. 
I wonder if giving the back of the cove a little spray with water to moisten it would allow you to still use your mud tube with Covebond 90 in warmer weather..or maybe even running wet sponge along the back?

I've got to do a house before Christmas that has some cove in it , I'll do a test , I'll have to make it hot enough to make the Covebond 90 fail and see if the moistened cove performs any better.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Just had the same kind of prob Caz!
I do think its drying out 2 quick as i just did a house and they just got the underfloor heating on and 2 go with that an agga!(Cooker thing i f u dont know)
Well i put my cove on a long plank and put the filler on the edge and it goes straight up after that and then on 2 the next and so on!
Usually u cant take it off with a hammer but this house! (Fussy F*cker 2) Great!! I am seeing crackes along some of it but not 2 much! But then the sh*T is cracking down the corners also!! Never seen it before! but it was the heat that must of been drying it out 2 quick in this case!
Worst thing is what the f*ck is it going 2 do 2 my taping job!!
All this heat getting fired at it!!:blink:
Some days b better staying in bed i think as its all rush rush f*ckin rush,Then its our fault! Rant over:thumbsup:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Underfloor heating is a curse, Great warmth to live in but its hard to do our job with, So what setting time did you use vanman, 90??

Prob a good point there stopper, Dampin the cove a bit, Thats prob it and it wouldnt be to hard to do, I stack the cove anyway so its only a sponge swipe as you go. I sent that pic to GIB to see if they have an answer, They will prob say the same thing if i hear back.


----------



## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

What is the cove made of that you guys are using? We call it crown her and use nails to install it. Ours is usually primed mdf and shrinks like a bitch when the heat goes on and got back to normal in the summer when it's humid


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Stopper said:


> Last time I put cove up I set up a jig to rest my cove in so I could easily mud the edges with my trowel, its pretty quick doing it that way


I've always sat the cove over 2 step ladders and buttered them that way, for a mortar/glue board I use an old hawk with no handle and 4 rubber bumpers for feet, that way you can get your fingers under it, I made a ladder platform frame type thing to sit the mortar board at the 2nd step and that sits just under the cove so there's no bending down, I should take a pic sometime so you know what I mean.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

jcampbell said:


> What is the cove made of that you guys are using? We call it crown her and use nails to install it. Ours is usually primed mdf and shrinks like a bitch when the heat goes on and got back to normal in the summer when it's humid


Cove is the same as the wallboard, paper covered gypsum. No nails to install just a setting type mud/glue.


----------



## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> Cove is the same as the wallboard, paper covered gypsum. No nails to install just a setting type mud/glue.


Really...... I've never seen such a thing around here


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

jcampbell said:


> Really...... I've never seen such a thing around here


That constantly amazes me. It is usually you guys that are ahead of the game. Maybe we should start exporting it to the states.


----------



## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

gazman said:


> That constantly amazes me. It is usually you guys that are ahead of the game. Maybe we should start exporting it to the states.[/QUOTE
> 
> I'm a Canuck man from a small town . We r lucky to have corner bead.


----------



## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

I did some plaster based molding with seams in it ages ago, probably in my first year running work. I'd love to see some of that cove stuff out this way :whistling2:


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Philma Crevices said:


> I did some plaster based molding with seams in it ages ago, probably in my first year running work. I'd love to see some of that cove stuff out this way :whistling2:


 I could sell It !! :yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

jcampbell said:


> Really...... I've never seen such a thing around here


There's a place in Windsor that makes it, there's a link on this site some where:yes:


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

cazna said:


> Underfloor heating is a curse, Great warmth to live in but its hard to do our job with, So what setting time did you use vanman, 90??
> 
> Prob a good point there stopper, Dampin the cove a bit, Thats prob it and it wouldnt be to hard to do, I stack the cove anyway so its only a sponge swipe as you go. I sent that pic to GIB to see if they have an answer, They will prob say the same thing if i hear back.


It was gyproc 60 that was used! Never ever had a problem before!


----------



## Stopper (Nov 5, 2011)

jcampbell said:


> Really...... I've never seen such a thing around here


 We even had a paper faced polystyrene cored coving too, though they took it off the market. shame really it had its uses.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Stopper said:


> We even had a paper faced polystyrene cored coving too, though they took it off the market. shame really it had its uses.


And all the poly moulding from decostyle, They were so easy, 2m lengths, Super light.


----------



## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

One of the local paint stores has started selling Hamilton all purpose, anybody used it? price was really high, $29 a pail compared to around $21 for synko at the drywall supply.


----------



## Gibstopper (Aug 30, 2012)

saskataper said:


> One of the local paint stores has started selling Hamilton all purpose, anybody used it? price was really high, $29 a pail compared to around $21 for synko at the drywall supply.


 
in New Zealand we would be happy to pay $29 a pail


----------



## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

catisred said:


> USG is quite good, which obey a strict quality rule.
> 
> We have such products with the same quality.


 I'm sure many here would be thrilled to sample your mud


----------



## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

Not sure if some of you guys know how to use this site with all the repeat questions I read on here

http://www.drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=966

http://www.drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=1412

http://www.drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=3227

http://www.drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=3450


The list goes on beyond this, hell click here


http://www.drywalltalk.com/search?keyword=what+mud+to+use

And if your smart enough search for it yourself

http://www.drywalltalk.com/search?keyword=


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

:smartass:


----------

