# GLUE mofo DO YOU USE IT?!??



## evolve991

I was shocked to read how many rockers don't glue thier rock and how many regions don't require it. 

For those who do glue what brand do you like,or insist on?
We prefer Miracle DSA20 or OSI Formula 38. We prefer it to the point that if a GC or DC gives us Liquid Nails,Ace Adhesive or any bathtub brewed garbage we will usually break out our stash for at least the ceilings. What do we do with the garbage? Use it for walls or toss it in the dumpster. We don't let on to that so they don't just start assuming we'll supply glue but we DO inform them that WE will NOT be responsible for any 'rockstorms' or illnesses that occur due to inferior glue. 

PS: "Green" glue may make conservationists happy but be sure to ask for "Green" medical supplies when you visit the E.R. for blunt force trauma to the skull.


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## Muddauber

I would never ever even consider hanging a job without glue.

My glue of choice is Miracle, followed by OSI.

Years ago all drywall was glued in this area until the Mexicans moved in. Now maybe 10% of new homes are glue, & the collage boy builders could care less as long as it's done fast & cheap.:furious:


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## wnybassman

We like to use the OSI Formula 38 as well. Our main supplier has the Titebond drywall adhesive, but the fumes in that are actually unbearable. The OSI we actually get at the big orange box.


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## D's

When I used glue, I used Miracle DSA40.

Now I use Dow EnerBond foam adhesive.

D'S


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## [email protected]

After millions of board feet, still astonished by those who glue ceilings. LMAO


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## evolve991

TITEBOND how could I forget THAT trash?!?!? Yeah we got migraines from the fumes and from peeling it off our tools,benches,clothes,hair......

I don't care how many sheets have been hung by who or where they were gravity never sleeps and screws hold only a certain amount. Over time sheets will billow and sag. There are the Urban Legends of ceilings falling down and then there are the actual court cases and injuries that happen.


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## rckslash2010

95% of the ceilings around here have vapor barrier installed on them, it wouldn't make any sense to glue them, I guess I'm not considering multiple story houses, and basement ceilings.
I've heard stories of guys not securing sound channel to the ceilings correctly, and having them give way after people have moved in. We used to just tack it up and have a guy go around and screw it off later. IF he missed one room, that's all it would take.


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## MIKE FROM NH

I have never seen drywall glued in NH ever, with the exception of modular construction.


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## fenez

I offer it but can't get any contractors to pay for it.


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## wnybassman

rckslash2010 said:


> 95% of the ceilings around here have vapor barrier installed on them


Wow, interesting. That used to be common around here in the 60's and 70's. Now, those are the houses that have the biggest mold problems it seems.


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## Capt-sheetrock

I wouldn't glue my Mothers ceiling,,, and I LOVE her !!!

Did I mention,,, GLUE SUCKS,,,,,,:thumbup:


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## alltex

there was alot of glue being used hear about 30 years ago! i haven,t ever seen any problems not using it so why do it i ask?


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## Capt-sheetrock

Here ya go,,,, Glue only glues the paper from the back of the board to the stud. It never even touches the "rock". 

DUHHHH ain't it neat ????


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## [email protected]

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Here ya go,,,, Glue only glues the paper from the back of the board to the stud. It never even touches the "rock".
> 
> DUHHHH ain't it neat ????



And it'd take 29 fasteners failing at the same time for a sheet to fall. The billowing occurs between the joists, not along them, usually on a 2' oc job. Sl I'm a "mo fo" for not gluing lids, I don't have to bath in WD-40 every night.

We had that whole vapor barrier on the ceiling debate awhile back. Seems it's code up north. I still maintain that without humidity control, the rock would mold and fall down, regardless. We are now being told to slash the barrier on exterior tiled walls, due to tile failures caused by excess moisture behind the tile backer. Go figure.


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## rckslash2010

[email protected] said:


> And it'd take 29 fasteners failing at the same time for a sheet to fall. The billowing occurs between the joists, not along them, usually on a 2' oc job. Sl I'm a "mo fo" for not gluing lids, I don't have to bath in WD-40 every night.
> 
> We had that whole vapor barrier on the ceiling debate awhile back. Seems it's code up north. I still maintain that without humidity control, the rock would mold and fall down, regardless. We are now being told to slash the barrier on exterior tiled walls, due to tile failures caused by excess moisture behind the tile backer. Go figure.


Technically, were suppose to use durarock for those applications, though not to many do.


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## tricounty dwall

i agrre with capt. actually i did my moms house and didnty glue it . if we had to glue rock in sc id straight tape


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## [email protected]

rckslash2010 said:


> Technically, were suppose to use durarock for those applications, though not to many do.


Yes, durock is the material of choice (& code). My point was about the apor barrier needing slashed behind tile on exterior walls. And that gluing ceilings is something we used to tell the rookies to do and then LMAO when they get it all over themselves.


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## moore

No glue means loose rock [rattles] and requires 4 screws in the fields if not glued. more field screws mean more popped screws later. 
popped screws have nothing to do with the board being glued.

capt. Is right .. It sticks to the paper ,,but sticks pretty damn well.
I've done tear outs where rock was glued , it comes down in pieces the tear outs where rock was not glued the sheets come down with ease.

I can go through a case without getting a speck on me.:yes:1/4 1n bead .do not glue the butts .


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## jackleg

do you make a line of glue, or do you apply several chestnut sized nuggets? i believe the acorns work better.....


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## Captain Drywall

i was just thinkin the other day how a few jobs were glues in the 70s we don't glue much in n.cal.


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## chris

dont use glue In Ideeho unless its over block


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## msd

i would not hang a job without glue. if i am short 1 or 2 sheets in a house and dont have any glue with me i will run a bead of all purpose on the stud in place of glue. like moore said keeps the walls from rattling and less fasteners


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## mudslingr

I'm about to use glue for the first time by request in an entrance way only to a new house. The builder wants to try and avoid screw pops in this area which seems to be an issue on his houses for some reason.
Gluing is not common practice up here in Canada or wasn't and really have never heard of anyone doing it.
How many screws do you put in the field and do you pull them later or leave them ?
Will PL Premium do the trick for me ?


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## gazman

mudslingr said:


> I'm about to use glue for the first time by request in an entrance way only to a new house. The builder wants to try and avoid screw pops in this area which seems to be an issue on his houses for some reason.
> Gluing is not common practice up here in Canada or wasn't and really have never heard of anyone doing it.
> How many screws do you put in the field and do you pull them later or leave them ?
> Will PL Premium do the trick for me ?


Here in AU glue is the standard. On a 4 foot sheet you apply 4 dobs of glue on the stud. We use a saugage gun to apply it. We dont screw the field unless the sheet is not back tight in the center on sterl frames. On timber frames we will put a temperery block. You use a bit of scrab sheet about 4 inches square and nail a light gauge nail through the block and the sheet into the stud. After a day or two remove the block and patch the hole. No more screw pops. 
On ceilings we put a centre screw.
Hope this helps.


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## moore

mudslingr said:


> I'm about to use glue for the first time by request in an entrance way only to a new house. The builder wants to try and avoid screw pops in this area which seems to be an issue on his houses for some reason.
> Gluing is not common practice up here in Canada or wasn't and really have never heard of anyone doing it.
> How many screws do you put in the field and do you pull them later or leave them ?
> Will PL Premium do the trick for me ?


1 tube per 5 boards . 1/4 '' bead each stud ,stop at recess .
I don't do the globs they push the board out.. screws up the seam.
beat the wall with ball of fist [easy big guy] If it's loose [stud in] screw the field ..1 screw center. I sub my hanging for the most part so I tell them to put 1 field screw every other stud ,,then pull them out during block coat. .. ceilings .. 2 screws in the field .. then like ED. I hand tighten a 1/4 turn ..don't have the balls to pull those out .. I just x my fingers .. The less screws in the field . the better . IMOScrew guns do not truly set a screw.


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## chris

mudslingr said:


> I'm about to use glue for the first time by request in an entrance way only to a new house. The builder wants to try and avoid screw pops in this area which seems to be an issue on his houses for some reason.
> Gluing is not common practice up here in Canada or wasn't and really have never heard of anyone doing it.
> How many screws do you put in the field and do you pull them later or leave them ?
> Will PL Premium do the trick for me ?


try 5/8 rock.. no glue..no rattle,hell you dont even need to insulate interior walls and they will give same effect. ya pl premium would work


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## moore

chris said:


> try 5/8 rock.. no glue..no rattle,hell you dont even need to insulate interior walls and they will give same effect. ya pl premium would work


$$$$$$$$


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## chris

glue$ applying glue$$beating rock with fistballs$$$ 5/8 is only 2 maybe 3cents more . about 1.00 to 1.50 more per sheet. Of all corners builders cut they may as well use 5/8 to help hold there house together:yes:1/2 ceiling board costs just as much as 5/8. Most work I do is commercial so a bit partial to 5/8 the real custom homes all get 5/8 also. Try giving your favorite GCs a leg up and offer 5/8 on next job for say 2cents more and they will love you for it.With a little preplanning it can be done


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## 2buckcanuck

mudslingr said:


> I'm about to use glue for the first time by request in an entrance way only to a new house. The builder wants to try and avoid screw pops in this area which seems to be an issue on his houses for some reason.
> Gluing is not common practice up here in Canada or wasn't and really have never heard of anyone doing it.
> How many screws do you put in the field and do you pull them later or leave them ?
> Will PL Premium do the trick for me ?


But....but.... but.....

Knowing a thing or two about Canada, will your walls not be insulated with poly on the walls ???????

I know that's one big reason we don't glue everything , over half our walls and all of out ceilings have poly on them so..... you must be strapping the walls right ??????$$$$$$

Personally I think they should glue the stairwells and any bearing walls, but who am I to tell a builder what to do, I'm just a taper


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## Drywall_King

moore said:


> No glue means loose rock [rattles] and requires 4 screws in the fields if not glued. more field screws mean more popped screws later.
> popped screws have nothing to do with the board being glued.
> 
> capt. Is right .. It sticks to the paper ,,but sticks pretty damn well.
> I've done tear outs where rock was glued , it comes down in pieces the tear outs where rock was not glued the sheets come down with ease.
> 
> I can go through a case without getting a speck on me.:yes:1/4 1n bead .do not glue the butts .


 
Depends where you are in north america glue is tottally differnt than Australia... in Canada we would put glue on with a big calking gun in Australia we use a little bucket of glue with a big long stick that kinda looks like a big butter knife... the glue here is ment to be put on in areas where screws dont go... if you put glue on in a spot that you have screwed there is a very good chance that screw will pop because for some reason after that glue drys it will shrink and pull that screw up and cause a popped screw... can be easy to tell a popped screw in this situation after you coat it and it still shows a little ring.... iv made this mistake in australia after being a drywaller in canada...


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## mudslingr

....


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## Muddauber

chris said:


> glue$ applying glue$$beating rock with fistballs$$$ 5/8 is only 2 maybe 3cents more . about 1.00 to 1.50 more per sheet. Of all corners builders cut they may as well use 5/8 to help hold there house together:yes:1/2 ceiling board costs just as much as 5/8. Most work I do is commercial so a bit partial to 5/8 the real custom homes all get 5/8 also. Try giving your favorite GCs a leg up and offer 5/8 on next job for say 2cents more and they will love you for it.With a little preplanning it can be done


 
I agree,5/8 will give you a far more superior job than 1/2, but hanging 5/8 WILL NOT eliminate screw popps.:no:


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## E.K Taper

They dont use glue here in UK, just screws screws screws screws screws screws and more screws:furious:
Some of them are even put in properly............


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## Capt-sheetrock

Well I hate glue and refuse to use it,,,,,

But then again,, I am the ole fart round here.


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## super rocker

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Well I hate glue and refuse to use it,,,,,
> 
> But then again,, I am the ole fart round here.


 You are NOT the old man here, but you sure sound like one because I have been using glue for 40 years and it is the ONLY way to properly secure drywall. :furious:


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## moore

super rocker said:


> You are NOT the old man here, but you sure sound like one because I have been using glue for 40 years and it is the ONLY way to properly secure drywall. :furious:


your 63?


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## 2buckcanuck

super rocker said:


> You are NOT the old man here, but you sure sound like one because I have been using glue for 40 years and it is the ONLY way to properly secure drywall. :furious:


Wow someones older than the captain, you must be really really old


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## sdrdrywall

Wow 40 years of glue fumes:jester:


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## evolve991

Apply the glue in a line,or bead,about 1/4 inch thick. Do not drag the tip through the glue which takes most of it back off and leaves 2 thin lines of glue which will not make contact with the sheet. Do not cut the tube tips on an angle this causes you to have to apply it in one small facet,cut them flat and let the side make contact with the stud by holding the gun at a slight angle to one side or the other,this leaves a perfect bead almost every time. Dots,globs,hershey kisses,etc are for special situations like laminating over block or making sure that joist hangers/electricians plates and the like get an extra amount and more contact. For those who do not believe glue holds anything: Glue a stud and put a screw(not a nail) in it....come back to it in a few minutes,back the screw out and see if you can get the rock loose without prying,chiseling or chipping it off the stud. For those who don't agree that glue increases stability and structural strength: Go back to a house you hung in the past and look at your work...if it billows like a circus tent,has a high number of nail/screw pops or is far more out of wrack than when you hung it then there is your proof. Especially around window jacks and door headers. Screws and nails are simply temporary fasteners designed to hold materials until the glue cures. Also-the glue you use DOES MATTER! The best products out there are Miracle DSA 20 and OSI Formula 38. Liquid Nails,ACE,Titebond,Cousin Earls Glue....all a waste of money,ruins clothes and tools,causes premature haircuts and nasty attitudes.....


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## moore

evolve991 said:


> Apply the glue in a line,or bead,about 1/4 inch thick. Do not drag the tip through the glue which takes most of it back off and leaves 2 thin lines of glue which will not make contact with the sheet. Do not cut the tube tips on an angle this causes you to have to apply it in one small facet,cut them flat and let the side make contact with the stud by holding the gun at a slight angle to one side or the other,this leaves a perfect bead almost every time. Dots,globs,hershey kisses,etc are for special situations like laminating over block or making sure that joist hangers/electricians plates and the like get an extra amount and more contact. For those who do not believe glue holds anything: Glue a stud and put a screw(not a nail) in it....come back to it in a few minutes,back the screw out and see if you can get the rock loose without prying,chiseling or chipping it off the stud. For those who don't agree that glue increases stability and structural strength: Go back to a house you hung in the past and look at your work...if it billows like a circus tent,has a high number of nail/screw pops or is far more out of wrack than when you hung it then there is your proof. Especially around window jacks and door headers. Screws and nails are simply temporary fasteners designed to hold materials until the glue cures. Also-the glue you use DOES MATTER! The best products out there are Miracle DSA 20 and OSI Formula 38. Liquid Nails,ACE,Titebond,Cousin Earls Glue....all a waste of money,ruins clothes and tools,causes premature haircuts and nasty attitudes.....


Nuff said.:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

evolve991 said:


> Apply the glue in a line,or bead,about 1/4 inch thick. Do not drag the tip through the glue which takes most of it back off and leaves 2 thin lines of glue which will not make contact with the sheet. Do not cut the tube tips on an angle this causes you to have to apply it in one small facet,cut them flat and let the side make contact with the stud by holding the gun at a slight angle to one side or the other,this leaves a perfect bead almost every time. Dots,globs,hershey kisses,etc are for special situations like laminating over block or making sure that joist hangers/electricians plates and the like get an extra amount and more contact. For those who do not believe glue holds anything: Glue a stud and put a screw(not a nail) in it....come back to it in a few minutes,back the screw out and see if you can get the rock loose without prying,chiseling or chipping it off the stud. For those who don't agree that glue increases stability and structural strength: Go back to a house you hung in the past and look at your work...if it billows like a circus tent,has a high number of nail/screw pops or is far more out of wrack than when you hung it then there is your proof. Especially around window jacks and door headers. Screws and nails are simply temporary fasteners designed to hold materials until the glue cures. Also-the glue you use DOES MATTER! The best products out there are Miracle DSA 20 and OSI Formula 38. Liquid Nails,ACE,Titebond,Cousin Earls Glue....all a waste of money,ruins clothes and tools,causes premature haircuts and nasty attitudes.....


Where have you been evolve, I was guessing you picked up some taping jobs, and were too tired to post from doing real work:whistling2:


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## smisner50s

:thumbsup:


evolve991 said:


> Apply the glue in a line,or bead,about 1/4 inch thick. Do not drag the tip through the glue which takes most of it back off and leaves 2 thin lines of glue which will not make contact with the sheet. Do not cut the tube tips on an angle this causes you to have to apply it in one small facet,cut them flat and let the side make contact with the stud by holding the gun at a slight angle to one side or the other,this leaves a perfect bead almost every time. Dots,globs,hershey kisses,etc are for special situations like laminating over block or making sure that joist hangers/electricians plates and the like get an extra amount and more contact. For those who do not believe glue holds anything: Glue a stud and put a screw(not a nail) in it....come back to it in a few minutes,back the screw out and see if you can get the rock loose without prying,chiseling or chipping it off the stud. For those who don't agree that glue increases stability and structural strength: Go back to a house you hung in the past and look at your work...if it billows like a circus tent,has a high number of nail/screw pops or is far more out of wrack than when you hung it then there is your proof. Especially around window jacks and door headers. Screws and nails are simply temporary fasteners designed to hold materials until the glue cures. Also-the glue you use DOES MATTER! The best products out there are Miracle DSA 20 and OSI Formula 38. Liquid Nails,ACE,Titebond,Cousin Earls Glue....all a waste of money,ruins clothes and tools,causes premature haircuts and nasty attitudes.....


 you the man....glued and screwed...thats my attatude


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## evolve991

2buckcanuck said:


> Where have you been evolve, I was guessing you picked up some taping jobs, and were too tired to post from doing real work:whistling2:


 
Nahhh I've been takin' it easy with 16s on high ceilings and 14 foot 54s at 100% screw on jobs :yes: I'll have to get a bottle of UltraMega vitamins and a keg of creatine before I start finishing


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## chris

Muddauber said:


> I agree,5/8 will give you a far more superior job than 1/2, but hanging 5/8 WILL NOT eliminate screw popps.:no:[/QU It does help :yes:


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## super rocker

moore said:


> your 63?


_I am 58._


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## gazman

W should do a poll. Who are the youngest & oldest guys on the site. And what is the average age.
I am 46


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## Muddauber

gazman said:


> W should do a poll. Who are the youngest & oldest guys on the site. And what is the average age.
> I am 46


 
I'm 56


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## fr8train

I'm 31


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## moore

43....that's ..... 50 in drywall years .:yes:


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## msd

i am 49 and when i was 10 years old my dad would give me 5 cents a bucket for mixing up the bag mud they used to use in the 70s and would mix 15 to 20 buckets every day. so that makes me more in drywall years that i want to count.


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## Capt-sheetrock

I'm 57,,,,,, but I don't look a day over 65

Okay, I may not be the oldest coot around here,,, but i ain't changing a thing!!!


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## gazman

It looks like Fr8train is winning the young bloke thing.


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## smisner50s

gazman said:


> It looks like Fr8train is winning the young bloke thing.


29.two days ago


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## 2buckcanuck

smisner50s said:


> 29.two days ago


Happy birthday you old fart, I'm only 21:whistling2::whistling2::whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


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