# How to add pigment to USG Diamond Veneer



## Richard284 (8 mo ago)

I’m a DIYS who will be using about 60 pounds of USG Diamond Veneer (DV) finish as the finish coat over a kiva fireplace I am building. The base coat is Structo-lite over metal tubing and lath (an Adobelite product). I’ve purchased some pigment from DirectColors and I have created several 6”x6” samples chips—settling on one mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio (DV to color). During the sampling process I learned this stuff sets up fast. I will have to mix several batches and, perhaps do the job in more than one session (because I’m old and slow). How would you add the pigment to the DV to assure consistency throughout the process? Should I add it all at once according to ratio and then just mix batches from this bulk supply with water as I go? Sounds scary. Any tips? Thanks.


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## Plaster 101 (Sep 11, 2021)

Richard284 said:


> I’m a DIYS who will be using about 60 pounds of USG Diamond Veneer (DV) finish as the finish coat over a kiva fireplace I am building. The base coat is Structo-lite over metal tubing and lath (an Adobelite product). I’ve purchased some pigment from DirectColors and I have created several 6”x6” samples chips—settling on one mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio (DV to color). During the sampling process I learned this stuff sets up fast. I will have to mix several batches and, perhaps do the job in more than one session (because I’m old and slow). How would you add the pigment to the DV to assure consistency throughout the process? Should I add it all at once according to ratio and then just mix batches from this bulk supply with water as I go? Sounds scary. Any tips? Thanks.


I use a gram scale & make sure all dry material are equal you will also have to weigh the Diamond Veneer.
Than keep in mind that troweling the plaster will change the color you will get light & dark areas in the finish.


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## Richard284 (8 mo ago)

Thanks for the reply. It appears we are on the same page. I too am using a gram scale, creating a ratio at small weights and making sample "chips" that I hope carry over into larger samples I intend to make when my pigments arrive. I do appreciate your taking the time to reply.
regards


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## Plaster 101 (Sep 11, 2021)

Richard284 said:


> Thanks for the reply. It appears we are on the same page. I too am using a gram scale, creating a ratio at small weights and making sample "chips" that I hope carry over into larger samples I intend to make when my pigments arrive. I do appreciate your taking the time to reply.
> regards


Are you using dry pigments?
If you are using dry pigments you will have to grind the dry into a paste.
Dry pigments will cause streaks in the finish coat when you trowel it smooth.


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## Plaster 101 (Sep 11, 2021)

Plaster 101 said:


> Are you using dry pigments?
> If you are using dry pigments you will have to grind the dry into a paste.
> Dry pigments will cause streaks in the finish coat when you trowel it smooth.


What is your location like the State or East Coas or West Coast?
Also have you look at using a Venetian Plaster?
Another thing you should check is the Pigment Lime safe some dyes will bleach out due to the Lime content.


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## Richard284 (8 mo ago)

I'm in Colorado. I am using a dry pigments ordered from DirectColors.com. It says on the website about the pigments "ideal to mix with cement, grout, stucco, concrete mix." And this streaking was something I noticed when I made my sample chips and I wondered about it. But I don't understand: If I grind the pigment into a paste, how do I then get the pigment to mix with the dry Diamond Coat Veneer which I will be using about 60 pounds of? I am grateful for your input.


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## Plaster 101 (Sep 11, 2021)

Richard284 said:


> I'm in Colorado. I am using a dry pigments ordered from DirectColors.com. It says on the website about the pigments "ideal to mix with cement, grout, stucco, concrete mix." And this streaking was something I noticed when I made my sample chips and I wondered about it. But I don't understand: If I grind the pigment into a paste, how do I then get the pigment to mix with the dry Diamond Coat Veneer which I will be using about 60 pounds of? I am grateful for your input.


Ok we will start with the dye.
measure the dye to your ratio for the color selected.
Than using a mortar & pedestal to grind the dye into a paste with a small amount of water.
If you don't have access to the mortar & pedestal get two pieces of marble or granite tile say 10"x10" use these to grind the dye into a paste.
Than when you mix the Diamond finish add the wet dye into the wet mix.
You also stated that the Diamond sets fast, If the bags have been stored in the warehouse or in an area of high moisture this will cause it to set very quick.
Also how / what you are mixing the plaster with can also effect the setting time.
You want to use a Cage - Type Mixer paddle mixers will cause a fast set.
As per USG Hand book page # 224 (hard cover) " add 1/4 to 1/2 Teaspoon Cream of Tartar to a bag of Diamond this will slow the set time DO NOT EXCEED 1/2 Teaspoon per bag it will kill the plaster & it won't set. The water temp. will also effect the set time hot will increase the set cold will retard the set.
The dye manufacture does not state to use in plaster most plaster finishes contain large amounts of Lime & Lime over time will effect the color it will fade to a lighter color due the alkaline action of Lime.
Did you look at Venetian Plaster?


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## Richard284 (8 mo ago)

I have considered Venetian Plaster; in particular Marmorino Classico form San Marco. Unfortunately, I did this only after I purchased my pigment and Diamond Veneer which I did at the very beginning of my project (a course of action I pursued based upon a stucco guy's recommendation). But when I saw the streaking in my samples (it's minor, but it's there) , I thought, hmm, can this be right? I'm not wed to my original method (I've lost more paying for a card I didn't hit), but it's hard to fold the hand. One of my concerns I had with venetian plaster is I don't want a mottled look. Though the guy a San Marco did tell me how to proceed and not to get that look. I must admit, having a consistent product from container to container is quite appealing. Since I have zero experience with any of this stuff, I did decide to hire an experience stucco guy to apply my finish coats (though he did say my base coat looks good). Complicating matters further I live in a remote area. My stucco guy will be traveling 75 miles just to get here. (sorry for the sideways photo. I tried to correct it, but it won't let me.


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## endo.alley (8 mo ago)

Richard284 said:


> I’m a DIYS who will be using about 60 pounds of USG Diamond Veneer (DV) finish as the finish coat over a kiva fireplace I am building. The base coat is Structo-lite over metal tubing and lath (an Adobelite product). I’ve purchased some pigment from DirectColors and I have created several 6”x6” samples chips—settling on one mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio (DV to color). During the sampling process I learned this stuff sets up fast. I will have to mix several batches and, perhaps do the job in more than one session (because I’m old and slow). How would you add the pigment to the DV to assure consistency throughout the process? Should I add it all at once according to ratio and then just mix batches from this bulk supply with water as I go? Sounds scary. Any tips? Thanks.


The best method is to use latex liquid colorant from a reputable paint store. Such as Benjamen Moore Gennex colorants. Have your paint store mix a 2 gallon latex paint formula chosen from a paint color deck for each four gallons of clean mix-water in a bucket. stir the colorant in the water each time you pour off some water into your plaster mix. As the liquid colorant will settle out very quickly. Always do a sample board to make sure the color is deep enough and of the proper hue. If the hue is not quite correct, the paint store person should be able to help you tweak the colorants until the hue is correct. Sometimes and for some hues you may need to double the amount of colorant per bucket if the final hue lacks sufficient brilliance. But always mix about 4 gallons of water worth (or numerous 4 gallons of water buckets) of colorant mix water before you begin any mixing in a seperate bucket. We have done easily a hundred homes in integral color plaster here in Western Colorado over the years.


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## Richard284 (8 mo ago)

Thanks for your reply. I am digesting this. I may need a couple of clarification points I hope you can address. Thanks.


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## Plaster 101 (Sep 11, 2021)

Richard284 said:


> Thanks for your reply. I am digesting this. I may need a couple of clarification points I hope you can address. Thanks.


Whichever pigment & color you select you need to make sure the pigment is safe / good to use in a Lime based material. Chemically produced pure iron oxide are excellently in Cement & Lime.
See if you can find Products by this Pigment manufacture Kremer Pigments Inc. 
www.kremerpigments.com


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## Plaster 101 (Sep 11, 2021)

Plaster 101 said:


> Whichever pigment & color you select you need to make sure the pigment is safe / good to use in a Lime based material. Chemically produced pure iron oxide are excellently in Cement & Lime.
> See if you can find Products by this Pigment manufacture Kremer Pigments Inc.
> www.kremerpigments.com


Iron Oxide Pigments | Kremer Pigments Inc. Online Shop


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Use latex pigments such as Benjamin Moore Gennex pigments. The paint store will mix up each buckets worth of colorant that you need. Just pick a Benjamin Moore color formula you like. We have done a hundred houses in Western Colorado with pigmented plaster over the last 30 years.


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