# Updated consensus on buttboard?



## RNation

I've read a lot of older posts about buttboard and similar products. There was a lot of good reviews back then but I'm curious to know if that still holds. 

Do the butt joints last longer and hold up better to movement? This is my main curiosity.


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## MrWillys

Are talking about button board? Never heard of butt board?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lath_and_plaster


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## icerock drywall

Butt borad is awesome


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## RNation

Mr.Willy, here is a URL for the product:

Trim Tex Butt Board

There is a couple threads about it in this forum.

My dilemma is that it makes sense to use these in every aspect (longevity, strength and cost), but it goes against everything I was taught about drywall lol.


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## gazman

I used them for quite a while, then the Australian standards kicked in (all but joints must be back blocked with board and back block cement) then the importer had no where to go. Fantastic product, and zero call backs.


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## endo_alley_revisited

No problems with them. If only they had a similar application for commercial work.


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## MrWillys

endo_alley_revisited said:


> No problems with them. If only they had a similar application for commercial work.


I've never seen these in use and they could be used only in commercial that allows combustible material. Wouldn't be allowed in high rise but could be used in tiltups. I'd be curious to see the finished product. Does the dip it creates cause a hump on the adjacent stud bay?


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## Mudslinger

MrWillys said:


> I've never seen these in use and they could be used only in commercial that allows combustible material. Wouldn't be allowed in high rise but could be used in tiltups. I'd be curious to see the finished product. Does the dip it creates cause a hump on the adjacent stud bay?


It wont create a hump all the time, but other times they can cause a hump like you said.


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## Wimpy65

I started using Butt Hangers in the late 90's. I now use the Rock Splicer (from the same company). That company also used to market a metal one for commercial use. I don't know if those are still available?
They are wonderful and I use them all the time on all butt joints. The only time I don't use them is when I can't (solid headers above doors/windows). Makes a nice, flat butt joint! :thumbup:


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## gazman

Here is some reading for those late to the party.

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f6/butt-board-tips-4739/

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f6/buttboard-exterior-walls-3268/


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## icerock drywall

What I like about it ...well you can brake the rules on hanging. One big butt all the way down the ceiling and treat it like a seam...nIcerock and flat.


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## devin

icerock drywall said:


> What I like about it ...well you can brake the rules on hanging. One big butt all the way down the ceiling and treat it like a seam...nIcerock and flat.


:thumbsup: I started doing this in my garages instead of expansion joints. Such a time saver.


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## 800PoundGuerrilla

RebateMate turns butts into tapered joints … no butts about it.


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## 800PoundGuerrilla

Whether using joint compound (taping mud), or spray adhesive and hot melt glue to attach the milled paper to the milled drywall … the RebateMate method is MAGAmagnificent!


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## 800PoundGuerrilla

I've been using this carpet tucking tool to wipe the rebate down. Using the ball on the end and the rounded edge of the tool, I am able to create a shoulder on the joint that is similar to a factory tapered edge.


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## Wimpy65

That's certainly an interesting process. :yes:
I really like the Butt Board/Rock Splicer approach. It's so easy to make flat butt joints. And the best thing is the butt joint is on a floor joist, stud, or rafter that might twist, warp, or move. :thumbsup:


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