# slits in vinyl arch bead



## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Any tips on filling/sanding out the slits on vinyl arch bead? Just finished some and am worried the slits might flash through once painted.
thanks,
D'S


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

they shouldn't flash through,but if it concerns you,just give them a half coat,use a 6" knife,skim them real tight so you barely half to sand there,(slits),or use a curve trowel to float it out a bit more with mud,but don't make it flash


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

i'm not entirely sure what you mean.

once you have the arch bead on, treat it like any other bead. 2x 12" trowel. maybe i'm out to lunch though. it's getting it on that's the tricky part if you don't have a good system.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

McDusty said:


> i'm not entirely sure what you mean.
> 
> once you have the arch bead on, treat it like any other bead. 2x 12" trowel. maybe i'm out to lunch though. it's getting it on that's the tricky part if you don't have a good system.


 I felt the same way Dusty. Its all about getting it on right. If you have a real bad arch, sometimes you have to re-work the tabs after the first coat dries(nails/staples), but it comes down to getting it set right, after taht its just mudding it out.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I felt the same way Dusty. Its all about getting it on right. If you have a real bad arch, sometimes you have to re-work the tabs after the first coat dries(nails/staples), but it comes down to getting it set right, after taht its just mudding it out.


I'm in agreement if the arch is square, but those bullnose arches can be a pain in the a$$ if they're smooth, due to the fact that the perforations carry into the bead face being run. I sometimes wind up using my rubber bullnose cleaning dealio to float the radius ever so slightly. For square though, you're right...installation is the key factor. After that it's just another bead.:yes:


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Forgot to mention that it was bullnose arch bead.

It's on there just fine, glued and every third tab stapled - and has a nice consistent arch shape. The problem is the slits between the tabs extend into the radius and can be felt if oversanded.

I pretty much had done what 2buck is saying. Talked to the painter who was familiar with the issue and his view was that if it did flash it would be easier once primed to touch up without oversanding. He was satisfied with it as it was.

I'll try my rubber bullnose cleaning tool next time too Slim

Thanks guys


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

D's said:


> Forgot to mention that it was bullnose arch bead.
> 
> It's on there just fine, glued and every third tab stapled - and has a nice consistent arch shape. The problem is the slits between the tabs extend into the radius and can be felt if oversanded.
> 
> ...


i know what one's your talking about,the cut line goes right into the face,a 1/4" or so,they suck,we had that once,we filled the holes (slit lines) with DAP,then had to float over them with mud,then sand.they are a concern,I did not like those beads,I know what your talking about:thumbsup:


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Is there a better alternative to bullnose arch so I'll know for next time?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

D's said:


> Is there a better alternative to bullnose arch so I'll know for next time?


Yeah...square corners!

"Oh no sir, bullnose is so 1990's....you want square corners....much more chic and modern":yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

D's said:


> Is there a better alternative to bullnose arch so I'll know for next time?


use 90 :thumbup:
no,I think the ones with the slits are for super sharp curves,when you get into fancy bulk heads,circle's and stuff etc.....here's a link to trim tex ,so you know which ones to get for gradual archeshttp://trim-tex.com/products/350bull.php


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

to any lurkers:

this tool is the ticket for bullnose:
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Trowels/Warner-Drywall-Bullnose-Tool


sand with:
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Abrasives-Sanding-Sponges/Detail-Drywall-Sanding-Pad
don't try to just bend your regular sanding sponge, it doesn't do a quality job because it doesn't sand evenly.


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

this is what I should have installed... http://trim-tex.com/installation/7120 Cut Sheet.pdf


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

D's said:


> this is what I should have installed... http://trim-tex.com/installation/7120 Cut Sheet.pdf


:yes::yes::yes::yes:


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

have you tried this... http://trim-tex.com/installation/4410 Instructions.pdf


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

McDusty said:


> to any lurkers:
> 
> this tool is the ticket for bullnose:
> http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Corner-Trowels/Warner-Drywall-Bullnose-Tool
> ...


they got a newer tool now that they started shipping with the boxes of bead,it looks like a 6" section taken out of a 1/2" tape measure,probably a section out of a old measure tape would work too,when it's wet.
one thing we do (just suggesting here) is we don't clean the bead till the finale coat .coat your finale coat,walk away for 10 to 15 minutes,let it soak,the new mud soaks into the old dry mud on the face bead,making it easy to clean......ONCE!!!!
you don't clean your a$$ till your done doing you know what,so do the same with bull nose:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

D's said:


> have you tried this... http://trim-tex.com/installation/4410 Instructions.pdf


I have seen it in our drywall supply store here in London,and have not used it,think WE call it a end cap,their too pricey ,plus the seam would be too visible if there was a cut anywhere on the cap line .so your bead would half to be around 15 feet long to do that arch so no seam was visible .if you think about it ,


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here's the link with the bull nose with the slits in it.just so every one knows what were talking about http://trim-tex.com/products/34bullnose.php


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

and since were on the subject of bull nose,when you got to line up the bull nose end to end (long continuous runs) put a 3" scrap piece under them,lines them up perfect,this will work for any bead of coarse.
and no it won't make the bead bow out,for some reason,99 times out of a 100 the joints bows in when lining up bead,not out,don't ask me why,and I'm sure a lot of you notice that too,so a scrap piece under them helps them run straight and line up


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## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Look at that, they've got the rubber cleaner thingy right there in there installation sheet. Should have looked that up to begin with.

So you're using 3" scrap in place of their splicers, good tip - and I have noticed beads tending to bow out at the middle when trying to align them.

In terms of appearance and ease of alignment I'm liking bullnose for beads running vertical up from the floor and square for everything else. You still get that softer transition around corners without that adobe look and having to miter for intersecting beads. Easier than all square IMO.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

D's said:


> have you tried this... http://trim-tex.com/installation/4410 Instructions.pdf


That stuff looks like just the ticket for the larger radii, I'm glad to know it exists (I'd use the "thank you" button, but well....you know). However, a 36" radius is pretty big when you compare it most of the arches I encounter in residential work.

The best thing about bullnose is that you can run one side without getting cr4p all over the other side.:yes:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

In my post I was thinking 90 degree beads. In bullnose, we see 3/4" and 1/2" round here. The 1/2 work fine, but the 3/4 are the ones that give this problem, as the cuts extend down into the "bullnose" itself. What I do, is lay the mud on "proud" and don't sand till its over (like 2buck said). With these 3/4 bullnose, you have to let the mud run abit onto the radius (proud) or you can't get a clean finish.


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## sean B (Sep 9, 2010)

D's said:


> Any tips on filling/sanding out the slits on vinyl arch bead? Just finished some and am worried the slits might flash through once painted.
> thanks,
> D'S


in my company the finishers are responsible for sanding these because it seems the spray crews dont give a darn about them and over sand till the slits show thru.

what i do with them is on the tape coat i use a sponge to wipe the bead clean and fill the slits. next we use a bullnose knife and completely coat the bead. next day we sand them with a flat flexible sanding sponge. then coat again with a bullnose knife. there is no plastic showing, its all burried.

its all in the sanding, it takes time. i have no idea what my company charges for a stick of bullnose arch bead but im guessing in the 30 dollar range per stick.
they are perfect when done.


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