# no coat and flusher



## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

I am new to no coat and i am just wondering about running a box on the bead? i have never done it and am just wondering if that is the fastest way to do it?? http://www.no-coat.com/.docs/pg/10367

also do many people use these?? 



 and who sells them in canada??


----------



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Doesnt really matter how ever you apply the mud. What ever works for you. For precut sticks I use a hopper to mud or butter the back of bead then set with outside or inside 90 rollers. For 45s I use nocoat 325 or 450 combined with hotmud. I still do these by hand even though you can purchase attachments for the hopper to use them at All-wall.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

How to coat them will cause a debate on here, so do what is best for EWE.:whistling2:

If you have a lot of 45 degree angles to do with no-coat, ewe can use a compound tube and flat applicator. It speeds up the process, but if there is only a few I just do them by hand.

Ewe can also try using your corner roller, that ewe use on your internal angles when laying tape. It can get just a tiny bit messy, but it works.

I have not seen one of those rollers for the no-coat, but something tells me it is expensive. it would of been nice if they showed them wiping it down. If that machine set the edge/lip of the no-coat then I would be sold on it. But if ewe still had to wipe it down by knife, then I would still stick to my angle roller


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> How to coat them will cause a debate on here, so do what is best for EWE.:whistling2:
> 
> If you have a lot of 45 degree angles to do with no-coat, ewe can use a compound tube and flat applicator. It speeds up the process, but if there is only a few I just do them by hand.
> 
> ...


I got the nocoat onesided roller.....if thats whats your talking about


----------



## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

After watching the video I wanted to kick the guy in the nuts to speed him up---fn knife and pan arrrgh


----------



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

This guy tapes like old people screw.. Must be a painter. 45s to me can make or break a job, so i use hotmud and by hand. But then again if the rockers didnt use a factory edge i would go ahead and get a roller for them. So i think it depends on how the rock is hung.


----------



## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

That guy gives us hand tapers a bad name.I woulda fired him a long time ago.must be a painter is right.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

6'' overkill ,, Did not see wipe down.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

well, he does have a sweater saying denfield paints so.......
Using the 6 inch is ok,,,,,just turn the damn thing side ways, Like when you do screws


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

boco said:


> Doesnt really matter how ever you apply the mud. What ever works for you. For precut sticks I use a hopper to mud or butter the back of bead then set with outside or inside 90 rollers. For 45s I use nocoat 325 or 450 combined with hotmud. I still do these by hand even though you can purchase attachments for the hopper to use them at All-wall.


Hot mud will not bond to no-coat /metal bead or screws.. 

My input. That's all.


----------



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

moore said:


> Hot mud will not bond to no-coat /metal bead or screws..
> 
> My input. That's all.


 proform quickset 45 or 90 and a scoop of allpurpose. Remember the rockers leave 1 or 2 factory seams for me to fill. Makes it tough to not use quickset with the amount of filling that needs to be done. I use a laser level as well so sometimes i have to make it staight. In these cases by the time regular mud dries and shrinks (24hrs or more) the no coat will move. I am in upstate NY and weather is hell for tapers. As for bonding I have had no problems with proform QS. I do a ton of jobs using 100% QS. These jobs never seam to have any complaints. The ones where the mud really never dries behind the tape were the ones that kept killing me (delayed shrinkage). So for me its a matter of drytime.


----------



## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

I'm with 2Buck, stripe the mud on for No-Coat.
Also, I always start at the bottom if I'm sticking bead or No-Coat by hand.
Apply mud on bottom as high as I can reach, step onto bench, apply mud as high as I need to, apply No-Coat and wipe/coat on the way down.
If not you are making two trips up and down the bench.


----------



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

If its less then 8ft. No bench for me. Same way with seams, butts and screws on 8' or less ceilings. Only have to jump on stilts for top angles. Being tall has its advantages except for FN little closets.


----------



## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

moore said:


> Hot mud will not bond to no-coat


Sure it does. 



moore said:


> metal bead or screws..


No drywall compounds bond to metal. But who's using metal xbead?


----------



## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

moore said:


> Hot mud will not bond to no-coat /metal bead or screws..
> 
> My input. That's all.


Never had a problem :confused1: 
usg Quickset has excellent bond.:thumbsup:
Although no-coat recommends all purpose for installation.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> Never had a problem :confused1:
> usg Quickset has excellent bond.:thumbsup:
> Although no-coat recommends all purpose for installation.


Moore is right about the metal and houtmuds not bonding well, But no-coat is kind of (not really) a new product out there, or lets say everyone is using it now.
maybe it's worth a myth busters experiment.
cut some into foot long lengths (30cm)
apply AP on one, a half mix AP and HM, and then a all hotmud mix, apply to a wall and see which one is harder to pull off the next day.

Also, cut some 3" lengths, apply to back 1/8" thick, and see how it breaks away, and look for tell tale signs of it eating into the plastic,,,,,,,which could be a good sign:yes:

I vote for cazna to be our little myth buster, are there any volunteers out there, I rarely use hotmuds so......

(maybe throw in taping mud,mud max,light weight and other suggestions )


----------



## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Moore is right about the metal and houtmuds not bonding well, But no-coat is kind of (not really) a new product out there, or lets say everyone is using it now.
> maybe it's worth a myth busters experiment.
> cut some into foot long lengths (30cm)
> apply AP on one, a half mix AP and HM, and then a all hotmud mix, apply to a wall and see which one is harder to pull off the next day.
> ...


Btdt. Dropped weights through a tube from various heights onto corners. The hotmud No Coat showed greater breakaway and edge crack resistance than USG +3 No Coat, but the No Coat with blue lid outperformed metal and vinyl in hotmud.

Guess this makes me a bigger drywall geek than Myron Ferguson.


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Myron the man.....


Jason said:


> Btdt. Dropped weights through a tube from various heights onto corners. The hotmud No Coat showed greater breakaway and edge crack resistance than USG +3 No Coat, but the No Coat with blue lid outperformed metal and vinyl in hotmud.
> 
> Guess this makes me a bigger drywall geek than Myron Ferguson.


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Tell you what buck ill do it....im setting on lunch break right right now...after lunch we will do....easysand 90 and proform taping mud....ill use nocoat outside 90...


2buckcanuck said:


> Moore is right about the metal and houtmuds not bonding well, But no-coat is kind of (not really) a new product out there, or lets say everyone is using it now.
> maybe it's worth a myth busters experiment.
> cut some into foot long lengths (30cm)
> apply AP on one, a half mix AP and HM, and then a all hotmud mix, apply to a wall and see which one is harder to pull off the next day.
> ...


----------



## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

smisner50s said:


> Myron the man.....


A Lambda Lambda Lambda man for sure!


----------



## korby_17 (Jan 7, 2011)

i was told today by a taper who has done it for years now and he told me that if the angle isnt true do not use a roller because you will see it snake everytime. he told me that when he puts no coat on he takes his time and does it perfect asnd coating it cuts his time in half and you can just fly to get a perfect job.


----------



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I have a good job to try some techniques. Its a modular home with 3 seperate rooms that have bead and marriage lines. i will do some tests. room 1 metal bead with ez sand or qs. 2nd i will use no coat and ez sand. 3rd will use plus 3. I have a contract sthat states HO has 1 year to either call back or get cash refund. I will make sure to keep track of everything. I know the Ho so even if they dont call back I will be able to take a quick peak. I hate to say it but right now we are getting a 60% call back for these homes ranging from 1 to 10 man hours. Main repairs are cracks at marriage line. Minor are hairline cracks in 90 angles and bead cracks at load bearing walls. Then the screws dimple here and there.


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

boco said:


> I have a good job to try some techniques. Its a modular home with 3 seperate rooms that have bead and marriage lines. i will do some tests. room 1 metal bead with ez sand or qs. 2nd i will use no coat and ez sand. 3rd will use plus 3. I have a contract sthat states HO has 1 year to either call back or get cash refund. I will make sure to keep track of everything. I know the Ho so even if they dont call back I will be able to take a quick peak. I hate to say it but right now we are getting a 60% call back for these homes ranging from 1 to 10 man hours. Main repairs are cracks at marriage line. Minor are hairline cracks in 90 angles and bead cracks at load bearing walls. Then the screws dimple here and there.


 there is a guy out my way that sells moduliar homes and sets them.....and he calls me and i go in on a hourly rate to rock and float out where the piecs meet.....man they can be ruff instills.....


----------



## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> there is a guy out my way that sells moduliar homes and sets them.....and he calls me and i go in on a hourly rate to rock and float out where the piecs meet.....man they can be ruff instills.....


 Ya if you can make a Mod look good a you are a magician. The company I work for does around 25-30 a year . Its suck for work, but pays the bills in winter. I do everything by the hour, but still try to not have callbacks. Its just something you learn to accept. That and not being afraid to use durabond 5 and 20. Along with having every single drywall tool that you could imagine at hand. I dont sheeprock them anymore, but if it aint right. I yank from wall and start over. When doing these i always feel like the Gambler. Know when to walk away, No when to RUN.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> Tell you what buck ill do it....im setting on lunch break right right now...after lunch we will do....easysand 90 and proform taping mud....ill use nocoat outside 90...


Lunch break?? What's that?? :blink:


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

well the nocoat on left is proform taping mud ...nocoat on right is easysand 90...tomorrow i will coat both and thursday we will give it the stress test


2buckcanuck said:


> Moore is right about the metal and houtmuds not bonding well, But no-coat is kind of (not really) a new product out there, or lets say everyone is using it now.
> maybe it's worth a myth busters experiment.
> cut some into foot long lengths (30cm)
> apply AP on one, a half mix AP and HM, and then a all hotmud mix, apply to a wall and see which one is harder to pull off the next day.
> ...


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> well the nocoat on left is proform taping mud ...nocoat on right is easysand 90...tomorrow i will coat both and thursday we will give it the stress test


thank you Smisner50, Looking forward to the results.
Your a good addition to DWT, keep the pics coming and information. And most of all your little secrets...........Your a smart LittleBUCK

I'm going to sell your washing station Idea to Rhardman for a million dollars :whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Jason said:


> Btdt. Dropped weights through a tube from various heights onto corners. The hotmud No Coat showed greater breakaway and edge crack resistance than USG +3 No Coat, but the No Coat with blue lid outperformed metal and vinyl in hotmud.
> 
> Guess this makes me a bigger drywall geek than Myron Ferguson.


Thank you Jason
Myron fergason is my new hero, He's a 3rd generation taper :yes:My productions rates are going to soar now. We should invite him to DWT


----------



## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thank you Jason
> Myron fergason is my new hero, He's a 3rd generation taper :yes:My productions rates are going to soar now. We should invite him to DWT
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3ME-c96874


Good tips there. My production went up 30% since I started wearing Wranglers.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thank you Jason
> Myron fergason is my new hero, He's a 3rd generation taper :yes:My productions rates are going to soar now. We should invite him to DWT
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3ME-c96874


Did anything happen at the end?? I fell asleep halfway through:blink:


----------



## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

cazna said:


> Did anything happen at the end?? I fell asleep halfway through:blink:


:thumbup:I think my computer now has a virus--that cannot be a 3rd generation taperAbout 45 seconds in I saidthis


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

JESUS!:sleeping:


----------



## ding (Jan 19, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Thank you Jason
> Myron fergason is my new hero, He's a 3rd generation taper :yes:My productions rates are going to soar now. We should invite him to DWT
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3ME-c96874


Well after watching that video, looks like I'm a third Gen taper too


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

ding said:


> Well after watching that video, looks like I'm a third Gen taper too


Don't worry ding, after reading all our post, your next job is going to go so much faster, to the point you will feel indebted to us,,,,,,then you will help us with our body work questions:whistling2::thumbup:


----------



## ding (Jan 19, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Don't worry ding, after reading all our post, your next job is going to go so much faster, to the point you will feel indebted to us,,,,,,then you will help us with our body work questions:whistling2::thumbup:


By the time I get myself into something like this again i'll have to relearn everthing :whistling2:
For the body advise: 
Cave it and pave it :devil2:
and for a clean paint job:
A good blow is important and dont forget to Tack off in the booth :jester:


----------

