# Any magic for fixing persistent cracks?



## Saul_Surfaces

I went to see 30 foot wide ceiling today that had a perfectly straight crack right down the middle of it (directly under the center of the roof trusses). It's almost like 2 cracks where the paper has twisted over an unfilled 1/4" gap in the boarding behind the tape (but in the case from what I saw digging, there was no gap). It was originally taped by one of the best crews in our area, then failed, then paper taped again (originally it would have been a tapered seam, then it was retaped like a butt seam--likely V'd out first from what I saw digging around with a utility knife). The second time it was taped, apparently it failed by the time it was painted just a few weeks later. the paper hasn't torn, it's just cracked the mud in a 3/16" strip down the middle of the tape.

The crew who originally taped it no longer works for my GC, so now its my baby. If it didn't work twice for the previous, very well respected crew, I'm not real excited about using regular taping mud and paper tape in the same manner as the other two applications. The owner won't accept the look of the trim-tex magic corner joint down the center of the room (flat ceiling rather than a vault). I can't imagine no coat being used in a flat application.

Does anyone have any magic tricks for a crack like this? I'm considering rasping out the second layer of tape and redoing it using vario and fibafuse (pending the outcome of some experimentation in my shop), but would sure appreciate any suggestions you guys might have from past experiences. 

Thanks,

Steve


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## proficient Mudder

Sounds to me like the problem is above ceiling. The GC might need to check for bracing on the rafter it's cracking on. If it's going to keep moving or holding to much pressure load than it will probably keep cracking, no matter what you do. If it's determined for a drywall fix only than I would think after the 2 unsuccessful attempts of retaping it, I would think a control joint would be the only alternative.

Bill


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## Kiwiman

The best success I've had is not to v groove the crack, lay on hot mud then bed usg mesh into it so the muds under the mesh as well. Now days I would probably try Fibafuse and hot mud (would be a good test). Another option is to dig it out and put some type of expansion joiner in it and make it look like it's supposed to be there.


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## 2buckcanuck

did they stagger the drywall ?????
half to agree with proficicent mudder,you will need some type of expansion joint.
if you want to try something crazy,router out the crack with a 1/4" bit and fill it with a latex caulking,something that will move with the trusses ,then tape it,like a butt joint.
I would not go with hot mud,it's too brittle,the trusses will win.
another crazy way is get the widest no coat you can get.(don't know what that is?)just put mud on the farthest extremities ,no mud where the crack is,keep the mud as far away from the crack as u can,just on the edges of the no coat.treat as a butt joint
think movement
another way is get up in the trusses and put cross members in to distribute the lifting of the trusses.....but that's framing


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## Saul_Surfaces

I expect they likely staggered the sheets (the finishers were plenty good enough that I can't tell at this point from the finished side without going back with a long level), but this crack would be above one of the taper joints. the crack is perpendicular to the trusses (directly under the roof peak).

You're all likely right about the need for an expansion joint. The problem is that the customer has specifically prohibited it for aesthetic reasons. Maybe the solution is to tape it the way they want only if they'll sign a receipt for the GC absolving them of warranty claims if it fails again (which experience dictates it likely will).

It's very, very unlikely that the defect is due to the workmanship of the previous (well respected) drywall crew, but if they'd V'd out the crack and run it with a bazooka without prefilling the gap with setting mud, could that have caused the tape to "bubble" the width of the V along the length of the joint? The customer said they noticed it fail when it was painted, which makes me wonder a bit. There's definitely fill behind the tape, so my only wonder is if the bazooka mud would be too soft to effectively bed the tape into over a 1/4" gap.


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## Saul_Surfaces

I suppose another less exotic possibility would be to run the joint with straightflex medium (because the tape stays flexible and needs nearly no mud on top (just the 3 foot width to appropriately hide its height). The concern with that is I've seen lots of straightflex pull out of the mud on houses that have moved sites (the mud doesn't seem to absorb into the tape like it would with paper or fibafuse), so I try to only use it in places without other option.


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## DSJOHN

Saul--pull all the loose stuff out---get some plaster patch [DAP] fill the area flat--this stuff will set up in about 30 min.. use fibafuse and 20 min dura then finish with reg mud!!!!


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## Saul_Surfaces

DSJOHN said:


> Saul--pull all the loose stuff out---get some plaster patch [DAP] fill the area flat--this stuff will set up in about 30 min.. use fibafuse and 20 min dura then finish with reg mud!!!!


why plaster patch to fill flat rather than durabond? Is it just to avoid the pesky unpleasant reaction between two layers of durabond? If so, that's a great sounding trick. New to me.

Anyone ever try to rasp out a trough in the existing mud for new tape to go into rather than put yet another layer on top? A person would have to be careful to use a narrow knife to bed the tape sufficiently, but otherwise it might work.


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## 2buckcanuck

yes the tapers should of pre filled,straight stiff mud out of the box,mud allows for some movement,if they did not pre fill something like that then......but dont forget about our Canadian winters too,when snow gets on the roof,guess whats going to happen again


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## 2buckcanuck

you half to get all the old tape off,,,,,,and dap is latex caulking buy the way,so that's 2 guys saying caulk it


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## Saul_Surfaces

I wonder how long caulking would have to be left before a 1/4 rope of it stopped shrinking? I'd be afraid the caulking would continue to shrink away behind my tape, leaving a visible channel after a while (I've seen this happen on cracks off the corners of doors and windows on houses that have moved)


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## PrairrieDogExpress

Sounds like a structural issue to me. If that's the case it wont matter what you do, it will crack again without an expansion joint. Sucks when junk like that looks like the tapers fault. I'd say tape it again and float it wide. Make sure the GC is there so he can see you are doing it correctly. Then he knows if it happens again its out of your hands.


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## 2buckcanuck

dog express is right too,here's a example
bulk heads,24" wide or a bit bigger,the rockers did not put a backer/wood/steal stud/floater/ behind the joint,it would crack.no matter what i did tape wise, it would crack (did not try caulking).I had to cut into the drywall to put a backer in,then the cracking stopped,this was just simple bulkhead not a roof.
btw,,,hear what I'm saying rockers


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## eastex1963

proficient Mudder said:


> Sounds to me like the problem is above ceiling. The GC might need to check for bracing on the rafter it's cracking on. If it's going to keep moving or holding to much pressure load than it will probably keep cracking, no matter what you do. If it's determined for a drywall fix only than I would think after the 2 unsuccessful attempts of retaping it, I would think a control joint would be the only alternative.
> 
> Bill



Yep, sounds like movement to me too. I wouldn't guarantee it till the GC checked the bracing. Might not guarantee it then either.JMO


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## Saul_Surfaces

True, I'm not super excited about inheriting the warranty issue. The GC has been good in the past, and know's its a problem joint, so it should be ok that way


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## PaRiggins

I'm an amatuer but I got some advice off this site a couple of months ago that solved my ceiling crack.

Prefill all gaps over 1/16" with durabond. Especially the 5/8 on the ceiling. The ceiling board may be fit tightly togeather but some board has a second taper that if not filled, leaves a 1/8th gap under the tape. This is what caused my super fine crack.

Strip it down to the board and see if the crack is filled. If not, prefill with durabond and continue (i used mesh tape and 20 min easysand).

I feel your pain.


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## SlimPickins

Saul_Surfaces said:


> why plaster patch to fill flat rather than durabond? Is it just to avoid the pesky unpleasant reaction between two layers of durabond? If so, that's a great sounding trick. New to me.
> 
> Anyone ever try to rasp out a trough in the existing mud for new tape to go into rather than put yet another layer on top? A person would have to be careful to use a narrow knife to bed the tape sufficiently, but otherwise it might work.


I've removed tape and mud with a 3" belt sander (DUSTY!) and with a small block plane (Not so dusty!), and then used a 2" knife to wipe the tape in the joint.

I'm with a lot of the other guys on this...have the GC check the framing and see what he can do to negate truss flex. Personally, I like glass tape on big cracks, but I put Superbond in my mud which makes it adhere better and also seems to give it a touch more flexibility. (I asked my supplier about FibaFuse but he said "if it's new and improved we don't have it".:laughing:

Hell, you could always put some NP-1 in that puppy!:no:


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## Saul_Surfaces

Thanks for the tips. I met with the GC today. He said they'd used trusses without the vertical 2x4 at the center of the truss. Apparently trusses without the post tend to have more truss lift than they otherwise might (glad to hear the cost savings worked out ). This likely wouldn't have been an issue if the boarders hadn't managed to drop a taper seam directly under the peak of the trusses (which is directly above where the 2 halves of the bottom plate on the truss are scabbed together)

The GC is considering having us cut the drywall out 2 feet on each side of the crack and run new sheets so that the middle of the sheets are under the truss join, rather than a seam. That sounds like pretty messy work over top of hardwood floors (not to mention making a mess of the vapour barrier). I'm wondering about screwing 2 foot wide strips of plywood over top of the problem seam with the plywood on the unfinished attic side, and the screws in from the finished side (no surprise here). If I put lots of screws into it, that would encourage the sheet to flex over a 2 foot width instead of easily flexing at the tape joint (which currently is only held together on the finished side since we don't tape the backs of boards) and causing the hairline crack down the center of the seam like it does now.

Thoughts?


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## SlimPickins

Isn't the problem the truss flexing at the joint? You can discourage the sheetrock from flexing, but it's still the trusses moving which will cause the joint to fail. You'd be better off cutting strips of plywood (~10"x48") and _nailing_ (unless you can get your hands on some shear rated screws)them to the faces of the trusses (perpendicular to drywall). Then you'd be adding a shear component to the weak point in the trusses, and reducing the likelihood that the joint will fail due to movement. I'd use a nail gun to avoid popping all the screws along the joint. This fix would save you having to put a ton of screws in the finished ceiling, and allow you to focus on just fixing and hiding the cracked joint. Or, you could run a cost analysis on running a sheet down the middle (floor protection to include materials and labor, demo time, sheetrock cost, sheetrock hanging, mudwork, re-insulate, etc.....)

Or, you could explain the costs associated with such an endeavor (don't forget shoveling insulation!) and tell your GC he'd be money ahead to fix the framing problem and let you fix the crack.


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## rebel20

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I went to see 30 foot wide ceiling today that had a perfectly straight crack right down the middle of it (directly under the center of the roof trusses). It's almost like 2 cracks where the paper has twisted over an unfilled 1/4" gap in the boarding behind the tape (but in the case from what I saw digging, there was no gap). It was originally taped by one of the best crews in our area, then failed, then paper taped again (originally it would have been a tapered seam, then it was retaped like a butt seam--likely V'd out first from what I saw digging around with a utility knife). The second time it was taped, apparently it failed by the time it was painted just a few weeks later. the paper hasn't torn, it's just cracked the mud in a 3/16" strip down the middle of the tape.
> 
> The crew who originally taped it no longer works for my GC, so now its my baby. If it didn't work twice for the previous, very well respected crew, I'm not real excited about using regular taping mud and paper tape in the same manner as the other two applications. The owner won't accept the look of the trim-tex magic corner joint down the center of the room (flat ceiling rather than a vault). I can't imagine no coat being used in a flat application.
> 
> Does anyone have any magic tricks for a crack like this? I'm considering rasping out the second layer of tape and redoing it using vario and fibafuse (pending the outcome of some experimentation in my shop), but would sure appreciate any suggestions you guys might have from past experiences.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve


This happened in calgary and our guy there did just that and had no more problems although he used fibreglass mesh tape. He cut it out filled with vario then fibreglass tape and vario on top of tape. The joist needs to be checked what it sounds like it is the some bracing is giving way or the crown is the wrong way. Splines on cross bracing are not secure enough or just a bad truss. Could also be trusses aren't heavy enough for the roofing they put on. Roofing more than 240lb per sqft trusses may not be designed for heavy load especially if right under peak which is where transfer of load would be. 

rebel


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## penandscale

the truss problem will still will still need to be addressed. if your getting this kind of load
now just think what will happen when you apply snow load.


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## PaRiggins

Trusses will always flex. You can't stop it. An edge seam perpendicular to the truss should not crack from truss uplift.

When you sanded the joint did you go all the way to drywall and check for gaps? Durabond in any gaps will glue the two sheets together to prevent any movement and cracks.


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## PaRiggins

http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/hairline-crack-problems-377/

This is the discussion that saved my ass. Fergafinish has it right.


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## 2buckcanuck

PaRiggins said:


> http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/hairline-crack-problems-377/
> 
> This is the discussion that saved my ass. Fergafinish has it right.


just to save people some reading,fergafinish is saying to prefill ,(which i do),but I think saul is saying it was "V"ed out and was pre filled,with his situation,unless I'm reading his post wrong


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## Capt-sheetrock

I think you are looking at this backwards,,,,

If the framing moves, the drywall will crack,,,

You MUST stop the framing from moveing BEFORE you can stop the drywall from cracking.

You can put all the fancy muds and tapes you want to on this,, but untill you stop the framing from moveing, you are piss'in in the wind.


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## Saul_Surfaces

This is all true. But the trusses can't be lifting too badly, because it hasn't torn the paper where the walls are taped to the ceiling at either end of the room. And the crack is just like a hairline crack in the mud above the tape, it isn't as though the house is eating sheets of drywall.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Saul_Surfaces said:


> This is all true. But the trusses can't be lifting too badly, because it hasn't torn the paper where the walls are taped to the ceiling at either end of the room. And the crack is just like a hairline crack in the mud above the tape, it isn't as though the house is eating sheets of drywall.


Please re-read previous post


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## PrairrieDogExpress

Just tape it up again. With a little luck it will hold till the warranty period has expired. Really all you can do anyway.


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## 2buckcanuck

saul
think almost everyone has stated framing (trusses).what I would do now is show the G.C all these post/reply's you got.I think he would appreciate the effort you are putting forth.So show him this thread some how.....:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> Just tape it up again. With a little luck it will hold till the warranty period has expired. Really all you can do anyway.


saul
If you do get the G.C. to read these post,tell him to dis - regard this one :whistling2:
prairriedogexpress lol,:jester:


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## rebel20

:thumbup: Have to agree here said in plain simple english



Capt-sheetrock said:


> I think you are looking at this backwards,,,,
> 
> If the framing moves, the drywall will crack,,,
> 
> You MUST stop the framing from moveing BEFORE you can stop the drywall from cracking.
> 
> You can put all the fancy muds and tapes you want to on this,, but untill you stop the framing from moveing, you are piss'in in the wind.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Dealing with GC or HO we are too often the bearer of bad news.

They look up and see a little hairline crack,,, so they think, "oh its just a little hairline crack, that shouldn't cost me much"

Then we go in and have to try to explain to them, its the framing,,,,, and they just faint and fall to the floor.

You can't just wave a magic wand at it. 

Sometimes you are just the "grinch" that stole their Christmas money.


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## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Dealing with GC or HO we are too often the bearer of bad news.
> 
> They look up and see a little hairline crack,,, so they think, "oh its just a little hairline crack, that shouldn't cost me much"
> 
> Then we go in and have to try to explain to them, its the framing,,,,, and they just faint and fall to the floor.
> 
> You can't just wave a magic wand at it.
> 
> Sometimes you are just the "grinch" that stole their Christmas money.


Aw come on, just like everyone always says..."The taper will fix it".


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## chris

*experiencing same thing*



Saul_Surfaces said:


> I went to see 30 foot wide ceiling today that had a perfectly straight crack right down the middle of it (directly under the center of the roof trusses). It's almost like 2 cracks where the paper has twisted over an unfilled 1/4" gap in the boarding behind the tape (but in the case from what I saw digging, there was no gap). It was originally taped by one of the best crews in our area, then failed, then paper taped again (originally it would have been a tapered seam, then it was retaped like a butt seam--likely V'd out first from what I saw digging around with a utility knife). The second time it was taped, apparently it failed by the time it was painted just a few weeks later. the paper hasn't torn, it's just cracked the mud in a 3/16" strip down the middle of the tape.
> 
> The crew who originally taped it no longer works for my GC, so now its my baby. If it didn't work twice for the previous, very well respected crew, I'm not real excited about using regular taping mud and paper tape in the same manner as the other two applications. The owner won't accept the look of the trim-tex magic corner joint down the center of the room (flat ceiling rather than a vault). I can't imagine no coat being used in a flat application.
> 
> Does anyone have any magic tricks for a crack like this? I'm considering rasping out the second layer of tape and redoing it using vario and fibafuse (pending the outcome of some experimentation in my shop), but would sure appreciate any suggestions you guys might have from past experiences.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve


 mine were in a long hallway 3 cracks kept coming back no matter what , finally cleated sheetrock in the attic [basically put 3/4" plywood 8" wide in between trusses] and screwed the sh111t out of it it worked major pain in but Stuctural issue could be temperature related [big fluctuation in temp.]


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## cazna

Maybe put a small hole in the crack and expanding foam the back of it, Do it up and down the crack then tape, Only try this if all else fails and watch it dont buldge the wallboard out, You would be surprised how strong this can be.


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## Kiwiman

chris said:


> mine were in a long hallway 3 cracks kept coming back no matter what , finally cleated sheetrock in the attic [basically put 3/4" plywood 8" wide in between trusses] and screwed the sh111t out of it it worked major pain in but Stuctural issue could be temperature related [big fluctuation in temp.]


The way they do it here is to glue like a 300 to 400mm wide strip of drywall to the back of the join with cornice adhesive (not builders glue and not screwed), somethings very wrong if it still cracks after that :thumbsup:.


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## Drifter

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I went to see 30 foot wide ceiling today that had a perfectly straight crack right down the middle of it (directly under the center of the roof trusses). It's almost like 2 cracks where the paper has twisted over an unfilled 1/4" gap in the boarding behind the tape (but in the case from what I saw digging, there was no gap). It was originally taped by one of the best crews in our area, then failed, then paper taped again (originally it would have been a tapered seam, then it was retaped like a butt seam--likely V'd out first from what I saw digging around with a utility knife). The second time it was taped, apparently it failed by the time it was painted just a few weeks later. the paper hasn't torn, it's just cracked the mud in a 3/16" strip down the middle of the tape.
> 
> The crew who originally taped it no longer works for my GC, so now its my baby. If it didn't work twice for the previous, very well respected crew, I'm not real excited about using regular taping mud and paper tape in the same manner as the other two applications. The owner won't accept the look of the trim-tex magic corner joint down the center of the room (flat ceiling rather than a vault). I can't imagine no coat being used in a flat application.
> 
> Does anyone have any magic tricks for a crack like this? I'm considering rasping out the second layer of tape and redoing it using vario and fibafuse (pending the outcome of some experimentation in my shop), but would sure appreciate any suggestions you guys might have from past experiences.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve


Just like 2buckcanuck said; "Rockers did not put a backer/wood/steel stud behind the joint, it would crack again no matter what I did." I've had numerous crack problems from customers; meandering wall and ceiling cracks, but I recently came across a newly patented perforated steel backing plate that can be inserted directly through the crack at 4 inch intervals, where it can be held in place against the backside of the cracked wall, then fastened from the outside with drywall screws; it makes for a smooth surface for refinishing and installs in seconds with a reusable hand tool. You should first cut a 1/4" groove along the crack, then cut 1/4" X 1 1/" slots every 4 inches between studs. I use mesh tape and 20 minute easy sand. They market under the name Insisi-Back, from Prest-On Drywall Fasteners. Check it out in the USPTO patent database (US 8,024,903B2). I'll bet it solves your crack problems. It works great for me.


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## DLSdrywall

The best way to fix it is to give the job to a taper you don't like, just say it's a small job good luck!


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## Drifter

*New Product-Steel Backing Plates repair cracks. New Patent issued 9-2011*

Yes-Indeed! I do know a "Magic Trick" to fix drywall cracks. Your best solution is finally here. This reply represents a *Press Release* about a New Product, announced by "CRACKMAN." I am the inventor of a new technology drywall crack repair Backing Plate, awarded U.S. Patent US8,024,903B2 September 27, 2011; under the title, "Drywall Crack Repair Backing Plate," registered under the Trade Name, Invisi-Back(R). Why Invisi-Back(R)? For over 90 Years; the drywall industry has known only 3 ways to repair drywall cracks; 
1) Tape & Float; like putting a Band-Aid on a deep cut, it only covers the surface with paper tape and drywall compound. The cracks usually return.
2) The Patch-Over; about the same, but somewhat stronger.
3) The Replacement Method; replacing all affected wallboard panels. It is the most expensive method of all. It is environmentally unsafe, usually forcing the homeowner to vacate during re-construction; and it is a clean-up nightmare!
*
Now; for the first time in 90 years *of drywall crack problems, there is a real solution to this ugly problem. Invisi-Back is a simple to use two part metallic device that includes a palm-sized reinforced, perforated steel plate; Invisi-Back(R), can be installed with the use of its Re-Usable "Applicator Tool." The two parts, when assembled, create a living hinged device, which can be easily and quickly inserted directly into pre-cut slits in the crack, (like using a jackknife) at 3-4 inch intervals between the studs or ceiling joists. Once the trailing edge of Invisi-Back passes the inner wallboard surface, it will automatically spring open within the blind-side of the wall cavity. Pulling out on the Finger Loop of the Applicator Tool forces the Invisi-Back to lie flat on the inner panel surface; where it is held in place with the finger of one hand, while blindly driving 1" drywall screws at 3/4" from the crack on both sides of the cracked panel edges with the other hand, and into the perforations; installed from within the room with the cracks. The Applicator Tool can be released from the Invisi-Back with a slight squeeze of the hand, whereby it may be re-used for installing multiples along the crack. Invisi-Back creates structurally strong artificial backing, without attachment or support from nearby studs or joists, and can be installed at any location along the wall or ceiling. The end result is the smoothest possible surface for refinishing the repair; without any bumps, crowns and ridges. The device is user-friendly, simple to use, cost effective, without having to replace any drywall panels. Clean-up after the project is a snap, with very little inconvenience to the homeowner. Repairs in one room can usually be accomplished in two days. A prototype of Invisi-Back was field tested by the inventor in San Antonio, Texas for 4 years, with great success and without cracks coming back in the same place.

After making the final repair; Tape & Float, re-texture and paint as normal. Contrary to what most people think; Tape & Float is NOT-TRUE-CRACK-REPAIR. It's what you do after the crack repair, provided you _*know how*_ to truly make the repair. Invisi-Back(R) provides the _*"know-how."*_ And it will surely be;* "CHANGING THE WAY YOU THINK ABOUT DRYWALL CRACK REPAIR(SM)."* Invisi-Back(R) is presently being manufactured and distributed by Prest-On Drywall Fasteners, in Hot Springs Arkansas, and should soon be available at Lowe's, Home Depot and many Contractor Supply houses. Invisi-Back may now be purchased in single packs of 6, plus one Applicator Tool, and 12 drywall screws. Or it may be purchased in bulk of 200 each case. CONTACTS: Prest-On Drywall Fasteners(www.prest-on.com) Tel: (888) 323-1813. For specialized product advice and usage tips; E-Mail ([email protected])

Today;














June 9, 12 I just figured how to post pictures. Invisi-Back should be helpful to all. :thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

Drifter said:


> Yes-Indeed! I do know a "Magic Trick" to fix drywall cracks. Your best solution is finally here. This reply represents a *Press Release* about a New Product, announced by "CRACKMAN." I am the inventor of a new technology drywall crack repair Backing Plate, awarded U.S. Patent US8,024,903B2 September 27, 2011; under the title, "Drywall Crack Repair Backing Plate," registered under the Trade Name, Invisi-Back(R). Why Invisi-Back(R)? For over 90 Years; the drywall industry has known only 3 ways to repair drywall cracks;
> 1) Tape & Float; like putting a Band-Aid on a deep cut, it only covers the surface with paper tape and drywall compound. The cracks usually return.
> 2) The Patch-Over; about the same, but somewhat stronger.
> 3) The Replacement Method; replacing all affected wallboard panels. It is the most expensive method of all. It is environmentally unsafe, usually forcing the homeowner to vacate during re-construction; and it is a clean-up nightmare!
> *
> Now; for the first time in 90 years *of drywall crack problems, there is a real solution to this ugly problem. Invisi-Back is a simple to use two part metallic device that includes a palm-sized reinforced, perforated steel plate; Invisi-Back(R), can be installed with the use of its Re-Usable "Applicator Tool." The two parts, when assembled, create a living hinged device, which can be easily and quickly inserted directly into pre-cut slits in the crack, (like using a jackknife) at 3-4 inch intervals between the studs or ceiling joists. Once the trailing edge of Invisi-Back passes the inner wallboard surface, it will automatically spring open within the blind-side of the wall cavity. Pulling out on the Finger Loop of the Applicator Tool forces the Invisi-Back to lie flat on the inner panel surface; where it is held in place with the finger of one hand, while blindly driving 1" drywall screws at 3/4" from the crack on both sides of the cracked panel edges with the other hand, and into the perforations; installed from within the room with the cracks. The Applicator Tool can be released from the Invisi-Back with a slight squeeze of the hand, whereby it may be re-used for installing multiples along the crack. Invisi-Back creates structurally strong artificial backing, without attachment or support from nearby studs or joists, and can be installed at any location along the wall or ceiling. The end result is the smoothest possible surface for refinishing the repair; without any bumps, crowns and ridges. The device is user-friendly, simple to use, cost effective, without having to replace any drywall panels. Clean-up after the project is a snap, with very little inconvenience to the homeowner. Repairs in one room can usually be accomplished in two days. A prototype of Invisi-Back was field tested by the inventor in San Antonio, Texas for 4 years, with great success and without cracks coming back in the same place.
> 
> After making the final repair; Tape & Float, re-texture and paint as normal. Contrary to what most people think; Tape & Float is NOT-TRUE-CRACK-REPAIR. It's what you do after the crack repair, provided you _*know how*_ to truly make the repair. Invisi-Back(R) provides the _*"know-how."*_ And it will surely be;* "CHANGING THE WAY YOU THINK ABOUT DRYWALL CRACK REPAIR(SM)."* Invisi-Back(R) is presently being manufactured and distributed by Prest-On Drywall Fasteners, in Hot Springs Arkansas, and should soon be available at Lowe's, Home Depot and many Contractor Supply houses. Invisi-Back may now be purchased in single packs of 6, plus one Applicator Tool, and 12 drywall screws. Or it may be purchased in bulk of 200 each case. CONTACTS: Prest-On Drywall Fasteners(www.prest-on.com) Tel: (888) 323-1813. For specialized product advice and usage tips; E-Mail ([email protected])
> 
> Final Note: Please tell me how this Press Release information can be added to Drywall Talk's New Product list. Thanks and best of success with your business. Invisi-Back should be helpful to all. :thumbup:


How about posting pictures instead of all that typing , your talking to drywallers you know:whistling2:


----------



## Mudshark

I think the GC may have the best plan in cutting 2 feet out and putting in new board with the seam moved away from the problem area.


----------



## Drifter

OK. I've got the pics on the newly patented Invisi-Back Drywall Crack Repair Backing Plate; trying to figure how to post them. Just for you (2buckcanuck). I'm new on this forum. Will someone please tell me how to post New Product photographs? Thanks in advance. Drifter


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## Stopper

If they want a flat ceiling and not an expansion joint, and they can't back block it where it is, then you might have to "shift" the joint by cutting a wide section out of the ceiling and making two joins, one each side,(so you have no join where the original crack was), that can be back blocked with more drywall making them strong..ofcourse the ceiling might just as easily crack somewhere else.


----------



## moore

Drifter said:


> OK. I've got the pics on the newly patented Invisi-Back Drywall Crack Repair Backing Plate; trying to figure how to post them. Just for you (2buckcanuck). I'm new on this forum. Will someone please tell me how to post New Product photographs? Thanks in advance. Drifter[/quot
> mmmmm


----------



## Drifter

Hey! 2buckcanuck; I finally figured out how to attach pictures. Now, how can I alert other members to this new product? See attachments of June 9-12 on my post #39


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## Drifter

Steve; you need to try something new that has Tape & Float beat; hands down. The newly patented *Invisi-Back*; creates an artificial backing without attachment to nearby studs or joists. It's made of re-enforced perforated steel, that can be installed in multiples by inserting it directly into the crack within the blind-side, where it can be fastened with drywall screws from inside the room. The U.S. patent #8,024,903 B2 was just issued on September 27, 2011; presently being manufactured and sold by Prest-On Drywall Fasteners at Email ([email protected]) or by phone at (800) 323-1813. See the photos in my post of today #39.


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## Mudshark

Drifter - While you may have a decent product there for small patch jobs it sounds like the problem is a 30 foot long crack. Using your product for such a big crack in my opinion would be a major pain in the ass and regardless it would not work if the seam is up against existing backing already. If you want to push your product why not use the Reviews function?


----------



## Kiwiman

Drifter said:


> Yes-Indeed! I do know a "Magic Trick" to fix drywall cracks. Your best solution is finally here. This reply represents a *Press Release* about a New Product, announced by "CRACKMAN." I am the inventor of a new technology drywall crack repair Backing Plate, awarded U.S. Patent US8,024,903B2 September 27, 2011; under the title, "Drywall Crack Repair Backing Plate," registered under the Trade Name, Invisi-Back(R). Why Invisi-Back(R)? For over 90 Years; the drywall industry has known only 3 ways to repair drywall cracks;
> 1) Tape & Float; like putting a Band-Aid on a deep cut, it only covers the surface with paper tape and drywall compound. The cracks usually return.
> 2) The Patch-Over; about the same, but somewhat stronger.
> 3) The Replacement Method; replacing all affected wallboard panels. It is the most expensive method of all. It is environmentally unsafe, usually forcing the homeowner to vacate during re-construction; and it is a clean-up nightmare!
> View attachment 4400
> 
> 
> View attachment 4401
> June 9, 12 I just figured how to post pictures. Invisi-Back should be helpful to all. :thumbup:


Oh now thats just fricken spooky, Caz will tell you I mentioned something similar to that for loose and uneven floating butt joins, and as usual by the time I think of an idea someone else is putting it into action.....I've got to start thinking faster :blink:


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## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Oh now thats just fricken spooky, Caz will tell you I mentioned something similar to that for loose and uneven floating butt joins, and as usual by the time I think of an idea someone else is putting it into action.....I've got to start thinking faster :blink:


True, You did too, About a month ago :blink: Looks like a good idea dosnt it.


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## 2buckcanuck

Kiwiman said:


> Oh now thats just fricken spooky, Caz will tell you I mentioned something similar to that for loose and uneven floating butt joins, and as usual by the time I think of an idea someone else is putting it into action.....I've got to start thinking faster :blink:


Well then

Drifter should send you one kiwiman, so you can test it out, and do a review.

it does look like a cute little idea. I remember a few guys commenting about home owners doing their own boarding, and not landing their butts on a stud. So if it works, and it can shore up a DIY hack job:thumbup:

So drifter, if there's someone who knows how to stick a small object into a crack and screw it,,,,,,,, it's a kiwi:whistling2:

send him one to test


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## SlimPickins

I just take a piece of shiny 90, work it into the crack, screw it, then work another piece in on the other side, screw them together and cut off the overhanging part with a grinder. Unfortunately, every time I do this, the part where I screwed them together falls off onto the floor. Then the joint cracks again. It sucks. 

Man, business sure is slow lately.:blink:

Actually, my magic for fixing persistent cracks is to pull my pants up and tighten my belt.


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## Drifter

This reply was duplicated in error. See my Most #53


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## Drifter

*Reply to mudshark*

OOPS! On 6/10 I wrote this reply to “KiwiMan” in error, when it should have been directed to you, Mister “Mudshark”; in response to the negative remarks about the new Invisi-Back®. See my response, with a few added thoughts below;

OK: Kiwiman is right-on when he says Invisi-Back won't work if it is a (30 ft whatever) butt joint that is already backed along the seam. I must have not correctly read the post. However; this new product is not just for small "patch jobs' because it is not just a patch. Meandering cracks can run horizontal across wall studs or ceiling joists, then vertical between them. Such a crack can run very long without backing. It seems to me that it would be a far greater frustration ("pain-in-the ass") when you already know, from your past expert experience, that to merely Tape & Float; or Patch over persistent cracks has always miserably failed, because it does nothing to strengthen and reconstruct the crack from under the surface; like putting a Band-Aid on a deep cut; that kind of "fix" has been the industry-wide-"standard frustration" for over 90 years. Sure; you could go the radical route, by replacing all the crack affected wallboard panels? That's a frustrating job too; it's costly, hazardous to the environment, a great inconvenience to the homeowner; and it’s a clean-up nightmare! 

And, just so you know, I’m not just another pretty-faced salesman in a pin-striped suit, trying to peddle his wares. I did all this stuff for a living for 15 years, as a Licensed Drywall Contractor; just like you. Yep! I am interested in pushing this new product, because I know first-hand that this damned thing works; and it does all that it’s cracked-up to be! Pardon the word game. I too was frustrated because I knew there had to be a better and less costly way to fix persistent drywall cracks for my customers. The idea for this steel backing plate product came to me out of that necessity. I tried a number of backing designs before I came upon the best, fabricated a whole bunch of the best prototype plates in my garage; then I field-tested it for four years before my patent was finally issued last September. The biggest marketing challenge is to find the key that will open the minds of the industry to accept a new or improved idea. So guys; why not try another way, before you start knocking it? Tape & Float is what you do after you really “fix” the crack, with Invisi-Back®. Try this method, and you will soon be *"Changing the Way you think about drywall crack repair."*

*A)* Treat the broken panel edges like butt-seams by fastening the edges to the studs to draw the both panels flush.
*B)* Install re-enforced steel backing plates, (Invisi-Back) strategically placed about 3-4 Inches apart along the crack between studs or joists. Place a final Invisi-Back at the termination point to stem the crack's travel; like the Liberty Bell fix. The end result is a structurally strong repair that reconstructs broken wallboard panels; and it provides the smoothest possible surface for re-finishing, that is free of bumps, ridges and crowns. 
*C)* Tape & Float after the true repair, for final bonding and smoothing; followed by match texture and painting. 

I have attached a few photographs from my project gallery for you to see the before and after results; along with a quick lesson on how to use it. Invisi-Back® is presently being manufactured and marketed by Prest-On Drywall Fasteners, Tel: (800) 323-1813; or [email protected]. Now; if Kiwiman, or anyone else wants a free sample of Invisi-Back, please Email your mailing address to me and I will send a "Six-Pack" free of charge. That way you guys can write your own New Product Review. Of course, I will gladly respond to any questions about special product use issues, so do let me know how I can be of help. Best regards; Drifter. ([email protected]) :thumbup:
*GALLERY OF SELECTED REPAIR PROJECTS, COMPLETED IN 2006*​ 
















 



























 


*NOW; YOU TRY IT!*​ *







*​[/QUOTE]


----------



## Drifter

Hey MudShark! I'm still learning how to use this forum. I tried to reply to your message, but it ended up down below. Take a look at #53. Thanks.


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## 2buckcanuck

Drifter said:


> Hey MudShark! I'm still learning how to use this forum. I tried to reply to your message, but it ended up down below. Take a look at #53. Thanks.


Mudsharks not knocking your product, he's just addressing the issue/problem of the thread. What he's trying to say is.....

Start your own thread, that deals specifically with your product. State what it does. (which you have done). Then, like a lot of other manufacturers have done, offer some samples to the first 10 or 20 dwt members that PM you, or what ever number you like, to test your product. Be nice, and don't forget to ask the mods for their permission.

Bottom line you half to put something on the line. If all goes good, people will fill your thread with good HONEST opinions, and maybe even write a review, but on the other hand:whistling2:

Some guys come on here pushing their wares, then begin to fight with Drywall talk members. So you half to be serious,,,, and nice,,, or the mods will ban you:yes:


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## SlimPickins

The biggest challenge to trying a new product to fix cracks is this (at least in my niche):

I can't afford to have to go back and fix something again if the new product fails to do the trick. Usually, people are living/working in the unit.......which means I have a lot of protection to do. When I leave, the crack is fixed......because, if it's a framing issue, it has been addressed. And, if it's a drywall problem, well, I just happen to know a guy who can fix that stuff. Sans bandaids.


----------



## Kiwiman

Drifter said:


> if Kiwiman, or anyone else wants a free sample of Invisi-Back, please Email your mailing address to me and I will send a "Six-Pack" free of charge. That way you guys can write your own New Product Review. Of course, I will gladly respond to any questions about special product use issues, so do let me know how I can be of help. Best regards; Drifter.


Cheers, I might just do that :thumbsup:


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## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> Cheers, I might just do that :thumbsup:


Oh chit yes, I did. Address sent, Being a painter and a drywaller i often get cracks to fix on repaints, In fact i just did a couple of cracks above a cavity slider door, Butt joins with no backing or studs, I couldnt re screw em and didnt want to cut out the board, So want did i do, Expanding foamed filled it to try and give some support from behind, I was wishing i had some of the clip thingys, They might have been perfect, Or on some homeowner fixed jobs they really span the seams sometimes, Maybe a couple of these would be enough to help?? The seam would prob still crack if someone pushed on it though??


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## Drifter

Thanks a million for making me aware of my bein' a jerk when I got myself all riled-up and my feathers ruffled at your seeming negative remarks about my Invisi-Back product, Mister Mudshark, Sir. Although I'm Not trying to excuse my poor response to your comments; please do understand my motivation for coming a bit un-glued.... I worked on getting the patent for this product for five years, went through many sleepless nights writing and re-writing legal language and re-drafting the mechanical drawings six times, in my struggles with the USPTO. Besides all, that, I was successful in making a good living by using a prototype of the device during all that time; having proved that it does indeed provide the only true drywall crack repair, without the cracks coming back in the same place. So please do accept my sincere apology to you and to anyone else who read my inappropriate response. I do promise to be less sensitive in the future, and I will surely "be nice and serious." I do value the opportunity to be a member of this forum. I also want to thank Mr. 2buckcanuck for his recommendation for me to start my own thread about this new product; perhaps I will start a BLOG, if I can figure out how to do that. I do have a number of good tips and ideas about generating business doing drywall crack repair as a specialty service business, as well as special application advice. Of course I do welcome questions about certain application situations when using Invisi-Back. Slim Pickens said that a new product he uses has to do the trick the first time, because he can't afford to go back and fix something again. He is so right. That is the great benefit of Invisi-Back. It DOES fix it the first time; unlike most tape and float, or other methods. I have CAZNA's address and have sent him a "Six-Pack." Mister Mudshark, please send me your mailing address, so I can send you a "Six-Pack" of Invisi-Back to you too. Try it yourself. And, sincerely man.. Thanks a bunch. Drifter.


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## PrecisionTaping

Hi Drifter. Although I haven't commented much on this thread at all, I would be interested in trying your patches. 
Maybe even put together a promotional video for your company if you don't already have one.
Do you already have a distributor?
PM me and we can try to work something out.


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## Drifter

cazna said:


> Oh chit yes, I did. Address sent, Being a painter and a drywaller i often get cracks to fix on repaints, In fact i just did a couple of cracks above a cavity slider door, Butt joins with no backing or studs, I couldnt re screw em and didnt want to cut out the board, So want did i do, Expanding foamed filled it to try and give some support from behind, I was wishing i had some of the clip thingys, They might have been perfect, Or on some homeowner fixed jobs they really span the seams sometimes, Maybe a couple of these would be enough to help?? The seam would prob still crack if someone pushed on it though??


Hey Caz; I sent you a "Six-Pack" of Invisi-Back's. When I re-read this post I saw where you said that if you did use Invisi-Back "thingys" it would still crack if you pushed in on it. As my Japanese friend would say; "Not-A-So! No Clacky Mo!" Seriously; when you install these things at intervals along the crack they actually strengthen the wallboard. When we demonstrate Invisi-Backs on actual cracked wallboard at trade shows; the guys always try to punch the board at the repair, and are always amazed that it does not give a bit, and does not crack again. When you get yours, give that a try. Drifter.


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## Mudshark

All the best Drifter with your new product. I can see where it would work well in many situations and am looking forward to cazna "giving her a go" and reporting back to us on DWT.


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## Kiwiman

He's sending me some too, but I won't get to try them on cracks, rather I'll be trying them on floating butt joins that don't sit level....very handy.


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## PrecisionTaping

Kiwiman said:


> He's sending me some too, but I won't get to try them on cracks, rather I'll be trying them on floating butt joins that don't sit level....very handy.


Ya, I don't see too many cracks around here.
I think they would come in handy on bad board jobs. Floating joints, and some patch work. Should be interesting to see.


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## Drifter

*RE: Invisi-Back-Response to Precision Taping.*

I'm glad get the good words from you. Don't know anything but your "stage-name", but mine is Robert Riggs and my "Drifter' stage name is from my pride and joy, a 12 year old Thoroughbred Ex-Race Horse, (Jockey club registry name: Cowboy Drifter 4th generation out of the famed; Secretariat, and kin to both Native Dancer and Man-O-War. Here are my answers; 
#1. If I can get your mailing address I will send a "Six-Pack" of them to try them out. 
#2. I am very interested in doing a Promo-Video and I would be honored to help put it together with you. I do appreciate the offer. What better way of getting such a presentation put together than to go to the one who invented the product and personally field-tested its prototype in actual business for four years? As a side note of interest to you; Before I decided to retire and act on my life-long desire to go into business as a Pro-Handyman & Home Repair Contractor in 1995; I was a traveling Law-Book Salesman and Territory Manager for a large Legal Publisher or 20 years, in which I regularly made presentations of both our printed and computer generated publications to customers and prospects. A great part of my duties included, co-authoring our company sales training manual and video training program, personally training sales representatives in selling techniques and marketing, teaching a college credit course in how to conduct legal research to large groups of law school students. For fun; I was also a lead performer in a small theater group for seven years in St. Louis, where I then lived. 
#3. Presently, I do have an Exclusive Licensing Agreement with Prest-On Drywall Fasteners (www.prest-on.com), in Hot Springs, Arkansas. They are now manufacturing, marketing and distributing the Invisi-Back; along with their own drywall fastening product line. The latest news I have is that Prest-On has made great inroads with the Home Depot, which will soon have Invisi-Back displayed on their shelves everywhere. Home Depot has announced that they will produce a training video, which is now in progress. I don't know what that will look like when it goes live on their website, because I have not yet been asked for any input as to its content. Therefore; I do have my doubts as to how good that will be. The good word is spreading since my patent was issued last September but it is a slow moving process getting making the market aware of the product, and to accept the possibility that there just might be a more effective way to fix wallboard cracks. We need to get Invisi-Back in the hands of the pros in our market.
#4. Another great benefit to using Invisi-Back is that; after they are installed behind the wall with the crack, there is nothing left on the outer surface that would foul-up automatic taping equipment; no sharp metal edges. The result is the smoothest possible surface for re-finishing. Thumbs up on that one too! :thumbup:


----------



## Drifter

Hats Off Mister Mudshark; Thanks for the encouragement. I'm trying to figure out how to start a new thread about my Invisi-Back Drywall crack repair backing plate; covering tips and special ideas and advice in its usage, including ways to generate business using the product. Can you, or anyone give me some pointers as to how to start a thread like that; or perhaps it should be done in a blog? I'm really new at using this forum. Thanks in advance. Drifter.


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## 2buckcanuck

Drifter said:


> Hats Off Mister Mudshark; Thanks for the encouragement. I'm trying to figure out how to start a new thread about my Invisi-Back Drywall crack repair backing plate; covering tips and special ideas and advice in its usage, including ways to generate business using the product. Can you, or anyone give me some pointers as to how to start a thread like that; or perhaps it should be done in a blog? I'm really new at using this forum. Thanks in advance. Drifter.


Go to Forum

Then I suggest clicking on "drywall tools,supplies and equipment"

Then you will see new topic.

DWT still needs fixing, so allow the 1st post to screw up, it will do stuff like........^^^^--4 PT has a small stick (((%#@ 

Just insert 4 happy faces or something,,,, like this

Then in the second post, do all your typing and adding picture.

Trust me, the 1st post will screw up:yes:


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## Tucker

What if you have a cavity that has spray foam in it?...most of our homes are going that way.


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## Mudshark

Drifter said:


> Hats Off Mister Mudshark; Thanks for the encouragement. I'm trying to figure out how to start a new thread about my Invisi-Back Drywall crack repair backing plate; covering tips and special ideas and advice in its usage, including ways to generate business using the product. Can you, or anyone give me some pointers as to how to start a thread like that; or perhaps it should be done in a blog? I'm really new at using this forum. Thanks in advance. Drifter.


Welcome to the forum Drifter. As 2buck suggested you can post under Drywall Tools and equipment. You should be able to not screw up like some do. OH and if you want to personalize your profile picture you can add a photo of maybe a horse or? I wouldn't go so far as to show 2 drywallers dressed in sheeps clothing buggering though.

 

You can also edit your profile to have a signature line, there are a few options here. Its good to see some of the equipment manufacturers on here Robert. If the priduct is good and gets good reviews I think you will benefit. If the guys dont like it some of them can hit it pretty hard so be warned. (ie CertainTeed board)


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## PrecisionTaping

mudshark said:


> if the guys dont like it some of them can hit it pretty hard so be warned. (ie certainteed board)[/font]


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## James Stafford

2buckcanuck said:


> you half to get all the old tape off,,,,,,and dap is latex caulking buy the way,so that's 2 guys saying caulk it


 
dap is a brand, they also make plaster like repair stuff.


----------



## James Stafford

In response to the plywood idea...
sounds like a reasonable solution. you could add 2x2's also that are screwed to truss at each end of ply and again through the drywall from underside and through the 2x2 as well. In effect creating the bracing that it needs. then I would, as previously suggested, use fiberglass mesh, then bed papertape over that WITH durabond, then treat as a butt joint. Durabond for the bed coat. make sure you are at top of your game on this "butt" because as you mentioned, it is built up. Nice and wide, maybe a fourth skim even, so no one notices. everyone will be staring at this point. I have had success at fixing cracks in plaster using this taping method with the mesh, hot mud, paper, hot mud with no call backs so far. have also done it with drywall. Hope this helps.............


----------



## Drifter

> [
> 
> 
> Tucker said:
> 
> 
> 
> What if you have a cavity that has spray foam in it?...most of our homes are going that way.
> 
> 
> 
> Invisi-Back® Drywall Creack Repair Backing Plates. Q & A Department:
> Question from Tucker:
> 
> *Answer:* Yeah Boy! You are right about many homes being built with foam in the wall cavities. That’s a really bad idea, because it causes big trouble when repairs need to be done, like when an AC Technician, Electrician, Plumber, or any other pro needs to cut into the wall, for many reasons. Here is a “Good Indian Trick” for making drywall crack repairs in walls that have been foamed. Mobile home manufacturers really go nuts with foam in the walls; and in the ceiling as well. The product “Great Stuff®” is habitually used by most of them. I have been called upon to fix some of those cracks. Try this good, but tough little trick;
> 
> *#1. *First; cut a shallow bedding V groove along the crack, using a utility knife.
> *#2.* Make a 1/8 wide cut into the crack along its path. *
> #3. * Wedge-Cut out a small rectangular wallboard section; the same size as one invisi-Back, (1 1/2" X 3") across the crack, with the long side diagonal to the crack. Be sure to cut that little piece concave at the edges so you can use it again to plug up the hole you cut. Do save that little piece for later. *
> #4.* Now look to see if you have ample separation between the foam and inner side of the wallboard, to slide Invisi-Back between that gap.
> *#5. *If there is at least a 1/4" thin gap; load one Invisi-Back onto the Applicator Tool, and place it into the hole against the foam.
> *#6.* Now slide the assembled Invisi-Back over to the left or right side along that crack until it is positioned under the cracked panel where you want it.
> *#7.* Now "blind" fasten the Invisi-Back through each side of the panel edge, and release the Applicator Tool, to be used again. *
> #8*. After the completed repair; butter the edges of that little cut-out piece and use it to plug up the hole. Follow that with standard taping. *
> VIP NOTES:* If you need to install more than one Invisi-Back; use the same procedure as in 4 through 7, starting from the farthest placement. This is the tricky part. If there is not adequate space between the foam and the board; you will have to heat that steel plate Invisi-Back first, with a good hair dryer or a butane torch so it will melt enough foam to get the thing to slide over into position; being really quick about it too.... I should not have to tell you not to stupidly let open flame touch that foam or any other flamable material. DUHHHH! Don't be stupid. I have pasted in a rough drawing of how this can be done. Now; if you will send me your mailing address by Email, I will send over a "Six-Pack" of Invisi-Back to try it out. Best regards, Drifter. [email protected]
Click to expand...


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## Drifter

Is that you Mister Mudshark; the mean face givin' the bird? OK; No Problemo! I can take a good Jab once in a while. Tell me though; is that your number of years in school, or your IQ???


----------



## moore

Drifter said:


> Is that you Mister Mudshark; the mean face givin' the bird? OK; No Problemo! I can take a good Jab once in a while. Tell me though; is that your number of years in school, or your IQ???


 No that's not Mudshark...That is SIR Mudslingr...Your talking about IQs ,,but cant start a thread..If my jethro ass can start a thread or edit my profile than i'm sure the guy that can fix the unfixable crack can!


----------



## moore

James Stafford said:


> In response to the plywood idea...
> sounds like a reasonable solution. you could add 2x2's also that are screwed to truss at each end of ply and again through the drywall from underside and through the 2x2 as well. In effect creating the bracing that it needs. then I would, as previously suggested, use fiberglass mesh, then bed papertape over that WITH durabond, then treat as a butt joint. Durabond for the bed coat. make sure you are at top of your game on this "butt" because as you mentioned, it is built up. Nice and wide, maybe a fourth skim even, so no one notices. everyone will be staring at this point. I have had success at fixing cracks in plaster using this taping method with the mesh, hot mud, paper, hot mud with no call backs so far. have also done it with drywall. Hope this helps.............


 mesh?:shutup:


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## cazna

moore said:


> mesh?:shutup:


.....


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## James Stafford

Mesh tape Moore. The fiberglass sticky tape that you use under durabond that doesn't tear.


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## PrecisionTaping

James Stafford said:


> Mesh tape Moore. The fiberglass sticky tape that you use under durabond that doesn't tear.


Haha! Thanks for explaining to one of the most experienced guys on this site what mesh is.


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## moore

James Stafford said:


> Mesh tape Moore. The fiberglass sticky tape that you use under durabond that doesn't tear.


 Won't tear ..but will crack!


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## Mudshark

Drifter said:


> Is that you Mister Mudshark; the mean face givin' the bird? OK; No Problemo! I can take a good Jab once in a while. Tell me though; is that your number of years in school, or your IQ???


 


Huh?

WTF are you talkin about?


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## James Stafford

Moore; 

Of course you're the most experienced on the site. Probably the best too, like every other taper in the world. I was using a bit of sarcasm because you used a question mark. I was trying to be helpful and suggested what I have found to be best. Some of the other ones don't work in my experience(which must be inferior to yours in fact). What would you suggest agin??


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## moore

James Stafford said:


> Of course you're the most experienced on the site. Probably the best too, like every other taper in the world. I was using a bit of sarcasm because you used a question mark. I was trying to be helpful and suggested what I have found to be best. Some of the other ones don't work in my experience(which must be inferior to yours in fact). What would you suggest agin??


 PAPER. I'm not the best in the world! It's just a job...
Like the capt says..It's just sheetrock ,,were not paintin cars...


I'll stop with the vids Jim....Just kidding around man..:jester:


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## 2buckcanuck

James Stafford said:


> Moore;
> 
> Of course you're the most experienced on the site. Probably the best too, like every other taper in the world. I was using a bit of sarcasm because you used a question mark. I was trying to be helpful and suggested what I have found to be best. Some of the other ones don't work in my experience(which must be inferior to yours in fact). What would you suggest agin??


Cazna is the best taper in the world, he has won a trophy for his work before
















Cazna the WGT (worlds greatest Taper)

It's true:yes:

Show us a picture of your award Cazna the WGT


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## PrecisionTaping

2buckcanuck said:


> Cazna is the best taper in the world, he has won a trophy for his work before
> 
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> Cazna the WGT (worlds greatest Taper)
> 
> It's true:yes:
> 
> Show us a picture of your award Cazna the WGT


All praise Cazna the great!! :notworthy:


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## Mudshark

Way to be cazna the great!


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## Drifter

OOPS! I thought that was you in Post #70; giving us the Royal Bird in the hand. Sorry. And yes I can now do a thread but trying to decide if it should be a blog. What do you think???


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## Drifter

Drifter said:


> OOPS! Mudshark; I thought that was you in Post #70; giving us the Royal Bird in the hand. Sorry. And yes I can now do a thread but trying to decide if it should be a blog. What do you think???


:surrender:


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## cazna

Mudshark said:


> Way to be cazna the great!


WTF???, On DWT we are all the best, Go ahead, Ask anybody 

Im amazed at some of the jobs seen on here, Some really top stuff, Chris, Moore, 2buck etc, I have never done anything as big as that, Heads up to you guys, Big effort :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> WTF???, On DWT we are all the best, Go ahead, Ask anybody
> 
> Im amazed at some of the jobs seen on here, Some really top stuff, Chris, Moore, 2buck etc, I have never done anything as big as that, Heads up to you guys, Big effort :thumbsup:


WTF,,, a compliment









Your suppose to kick dirt back at me Cazna, guess those pills have still got you in a loving mood









So who's that sheep in your avatar, your 1st love


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## PrecisionTaping

Drifter said:


> And yes I can now do a thread but trying to decide if it should be a blog. What do you think???


Start a thread, keep it short and sweet.
Don't forget, we're drywallers, we don't like reading novels.
Post a couple pictures and get the basic thought across.
You've already mentioned that you're going to be sending out samples, the
thread will start to fill itself with the DWT member's feedback from their experience with your product.
Anyone can say they have the best product on the market.
Let others say it for you. Speaks louder.
Send out your samples and the thread will fill itself with tips & tricks as well as positive and negative feedback. Hopefully more on the positive side. However, we can all be brutally honest. But all that can do is help you improve on your product if need be. :thumbsup:
Goodluck.


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## SlimPickins

PrecisionTaping said:


> Don't forget, we're drywallers, we don't like reading novels.


I like reading novels. I like reading all kinds of stuff. Don't lump me in with all y'all neanderthals


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## PrecisionTaping

SlimPickins said:


> I like reading novels. I like reading all kinds of stuff. Don't lump me in with all y'all neanderthals


Hahaha, I do like reading novels too Slim! I have a whole whack load of them! 
But in this particular format, posting threads and commenting on them I feel allot is lost writing huge paragraphs and novels about a single product.
If you're trying to make a sales pitch, better keep it short and sweet and have a few visual components to keep people interested.
That's just my input.

Obviously didn't mean to imply that no drywaller's are capable or like to read books.
Just simply that given the format we're working with and the product that Drifter is trying to get across, that keeping it simple for the benefit of the general public would be best.


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## SlimPickins

PrecisionTaping said:


> Obviously didn't mean to imply that no drywaller's are capable or like to read books.


You can't back-pedal that easily....we knows whats yous trine tuh say. You sane weeze ignunt. Git im boyz!


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## PrecisionTaping

SlimPickins said:


> You can't back-pedal that easily....we knows whats yous trine tuh say. You sane weeze ignunt. Git im boyz!


:ninja:


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## Drifter

PrecisionTaping said:


> Start a thread, keep it short and sweet.
> Don't forget, we're drywallers, we don't like reading novels.
> Post a couple pictures and get the basic thought across.
> You've already mentioned that you're going to be sending out samples, the
> thread will start to fill itself with the DWT member's feedback from their experience with your product.
> Anyone can say they have the best product on the market.
> Let others say it for you. Speaks louder.
> Send out your samples and the thread will fill itself with tips & tricks as well as positive and negative feedback. Hopefully more on the positive side. However, we can all be brutally honest. But all that can do is help you improve on your product if need be. :thumbsup:
> Goodluck.


OK Guys: I'm OK with short, or brief and to the point, no novels. FYI The "novel" being referred to was a Press Release that I pasted in. You must consider though, that the product benefits of the new Invisi-Back Drywall Crack Repair Backing Plate (R) must be stated and re-stated, because we are dealing with an industry mind-set that believes tape & float is really crack repair, because that has been the only other way for over 90 years. Having said that; in the future I will rely mostly on reviews from yous' guys. I CAN take the negative stuff too but will do my best to respond logically in my thread. I'm really glad to be here; and Yes; I do welcome all comments. Keep-On-Keeping-On.


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