# Porter Cable Drywall Sander



## oruscire

Has anyone used the PC Drywall Sander (model # 7800)? I recently saw this on a job and I was quit impressed. It seems like it would be a lot easier to then hand sanding. Is the unit worth the cost? Does it hold up on the job site? I did notice that it was a great way to reduce the dust when it was attached to the vacuum. 

Anyone have any thoughts?


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## Drywall1

I use it a lot to sand ceilings. Works great. Biggest obstacle for me is finding a vac. that can handle the dust without clogging every 30 sec.


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## butcherman

Drywall1 said:


> I use it a lot to sand ceilings. Works great. Biggest obstacle for me is finding a vac. that can handle the dust without clogging every 30 sec.


A couple of things here. A regular shop vac works great. You just need to use bags in the shop vac. Lowes has everything you need.You also need a coupler for the hose to connect. You could go direct but the seal isn't as good. I use the contractors model it goes for about 80 bucks. You need run a seperate cord. You lose the on/off feature control on the sander. The vacuums (no matter which one you use) need to be replaced every year. The price trade off is worth it. Also don't lose the sliding black piece inside the shop vac.You need to take it out,put it on the bag and slide it in the slot. If you don't use a bag the filter clogs in about 30 seconds. Also the bags need to be changed when they are about 1/3 full. If you try to fill them the dust kicks back.


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## butcherman

oruscire said:


> Has anyone used the PC Drywall Sander (model # 7800)? I recently saw this on a job and I was quit impressed. It seems like it would be a lot easier to then hand sanding. Is the unit worth the cost? Does it hold up on the job site? I did notice that it was a great way to reduce the dust when it was attached to the vacuum.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts?


It takes a while to get use to it (much like when you started with the pole). When you first get it new you may notice swirl marks thats because the brushes on the unit need to broken in. Don't give up on it. Also i find topping with mid-weight sands great without swirling. If you're new to this set the control on 3 till you're comfortable with the bulkyness of the unit. Also keep it moving at all times. If you stop, pull off the wall or you will burn swirls in the work. The other thing is you still need to block the corners. The sander does'nt get in them at all.


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## taper71

I' ve used it once. I had a 240 grit radious 360 disc on there and it still took way too much off for my liking. I have always been of the mind set that I get paid to put it on , I do a good job putting it on , so why do I want to take it all off again. I have no doubt that it is a decent enough tool , it just takes too much off on my finished product.


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## Drywall1

Remind me of when we did the "Extreme makeover house" Some guy that thought he was the man showed up after we had all been there for hours and hours with his porter cable sander. But he did not have a vac. he started it up and then proceded to get yelled at by the 50 or so finishers that were there. You could not see 20 foot across the room. Just makes me laugh everytime I think about it.

Nate


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## savant

oruscire said:


> Has anyone used the PC Drywall Sander (model # 7800)? I recently saw this on a job and I was quit impressed. It seems like it would be a lot easier to then hand sanding. Is the unit worth the cost? Does it hold up on the job site? I did notice that it was a great way to reduce the dust when it was attached to the vacuum.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts?


Some guys abuse it, and have problems. I love mine. My first 1 was swirly, and skippy. But this one is real nice. I set it @ 1 on a new disk, and as it wears, it gets gentler. when it gets too slow @ removal, I dial it up to 2,3,4 and up as I wear out the disk. I polish the joints. With proper mud control, you don't need to remove much. I use 220grit, only. I have the other grits, but never use them. I also use only velcro-backed round sheets, not the donuts.

My current Vac. is a RIGID 1450, almost no dust. 1bag, 1HEPA filter.:thumbsup:

Durability? It's a nice power tool. It's delicate, like any nice power tool.


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## 1wallboardsman

taper71 said:


> I' ve used it once. I had a 240 grit radious 360 disc on there and it still took way too much off for my liking. I have always been of the mind set that I get paid to put it on , I do a good job putting it on , so why do I want to take it all off again. I have no doubt that it is a decent enough tool , it just takes too much off on my finished product.


Gee, there is an "old-dog" idea that seems to have stuck.

jdl


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## JCardoza

I own several of the powersanders and vacs, they work good for a quick sand for texture, but for smooth you should go back with some 240 on a radius 360 sander. I (my guys, mine lasted for years when I used to sand all the time) kill sanders and vacs all the time but you can order parts for the sanders at all-wall.com and fix them yourself. The brushes on the motor are the first thing to go... UNPLUG IT FIRST!!! LOL that seems obvious but I've seen guys work on them plugged in way to many times LOL if you have to test it with it apart step on the motor first before plugging it in and turning it on! Or have a good electrical repair kit on hand... Your choice!


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## Kozzmo

taper71 said:


> I' ve used it once. I had a 240 grit radious 360 disc on there and it still took way too much off for my liking. I have always been of the mind set that I get paid to put it on , I do a good job putting it on , so why do I want to take it all off again. I have no doubt that it is a decent enough tool , it just takes too much off on my finished product.


240 took off way too much ? Sounds like your pushing way too hard .Ease up on the pressure, but keep it flat{obviously}Maybe you could slow the tool down to 2 or 3.We also get paid for a good sanding job.I think it can make or break all the effort in finishing.Love to see those sharp, clean corners !That is done best by hand with a wore out piece of round sand paper, folded in half..works perfect !


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## butcherman

Kozzmo said:


> 240 took off way too much ? Sounds like your pushing way too hard .Ease up on the pressure, but keep it flat{obviously}Maybe you could slow the tool down to 2 or 3.We also get paid for a good sanding job.I think it can make or break all the effort in finishing.Love to see those sharp, clean corners !That is done best by hand with a wore out piece of round sand paper, folded in half..works perfect !


They make a drywall sponge with a diagonal corner that gets the point of the block in the corner. It's easier to control and is better than the paper. If you can find one try it,i'm sure you will love it. Also finishing with mid-weight seams to hold up to the sander. If the job is finished correctly it should require one sweep on edges and one in the middle. If you go over it three or more times you are over sanding.


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## Kozzmo

Yea...I like the sponges to.The best thing for horz. corners is CROWN molding ! [ lol ]Fire tape it and move on......


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## brdn_drywall

the porter cable sander was designed to get you to yur next job faster and it does just that. i use it for all edge sanding, screws,and ceilings that are getting texured. still use radius disk sanders for field sanding on wall flats, butts , bead and angled sponges for inside 90 and off angle sanding.


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## wnybassman

I've been using the 7800 for about 12-14 years now. Wouldn't be doing it anymore if it wasn't for that. I am on my 3rd "wand" and believe or not the original vacuum (7810 I think) just bit the dust (no pun intended). When we got it we never thought it would last more than a year or two. We were very wrong!! Used to use 100 grit almost exclusively but a couple years ago I switched to 120. I generally break in a new pad by grinding it on a metal corner bead for a minute to take off the heavy grit. After that a single pad generally lasts a whole house. Has anyone ever changed the bearing behind the sanding pad before? Seems like an easy enough job as long as it is not pressed into place. I've got the head torn down, but can't figure out how to get the abrasive disc (the disc that keeps the sanding pad from slipping) off the threaded spindle.


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## joepro0000

I have the Porter Cable sander, with less than a month the rubber hose burnt up and did not spin anymore, but I brought it to a shop and got it fixed for free, still under warranty. I use 120 Grit, but find out it sands about 95% of the stuff on the wall. You still need to go with a lamp and a sponge to double check for stuff, unless you want to be coming back doing touch up on small nicks and dents. Anyways, I love the tool, its great. I use it for all joints, beads, screws, and angles. However, I go over all angles with a sponge to get the best finish. Best tool I purchased, and team it up with a radius 360 sander and your golden!


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## OLDSKOOL TAPER

we have 3 portertercable sanders and got there dedicated vac,s,but one blew up cos of the dust,we now use a nilfisk vac that doesn,t need any kind of bag but has a big filter that uses only one side of the filter when it starts to clog it blasts the air from the side not being used and cleans the clogged side of the filter,it does all this automatically,saving a small fortune on bags!we only use the silly stick to sand where the power sander can,t get.We have had a collappesed bearing on the sander and you need the inside/outside pliers to remove the C clips to get at the bearing,you may have to buy new clips if you over bend getting em out,but you can get here from automotive spares+the bearing,saving a bit of cash instead of buying from p/cable.


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## allenmudslinger

*pc drywall sander*



oruscire said:


> Has anyone used the PC Drywall Sander (model # 7800)? I recently saw this on a job and I was quit impressed. It seems like it would be a lot easier to then hand sanding. Is the unit worth the cost? Does it hold up on the job site? I did notice that it was a great way to reduce the dust when it was attached to the vacuum.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts?


 Yes, this is a great tool. I have hade mine for 6 years has yet to breakdown. The biggest problem i hsd was with the right dust sytem. I used the pc, loveless. they work good except you have to stop too often to clean the filter. Also that little rod that lets you shake out the filter in the loveless just didn't do it for me. There is another system that you can use with a shop vac and that is another water filter that you attach to a shop vac. this sytem works well but now you have to carry another piece of equipment. I did some research and found a german vacum by nilfisk. this vacum has unbeleivable suction and is super quite. the best feature is it send a blast of air every so often back through the filter witch in turn keeps the filter clean. you can sand the hole job with out stopping. It also has a plug built in that you can plug into and when you turn on or off your sander so does your vacum. It broke down 1 time in 5 years and all i had to do was replace a circuit board. I did it myself because it is just a couple of quick connectors. cost was $120.00. You can get a vac from 700 to 1000 depending on what options you want. This may sound like alot but I can tell you this I will not sand by hand again.:yes:


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## DSJOHN

wnybassman said:


> I've been using the 7800 for about 12-14 years now. Wouldn't be doing it anymore if it wasn't for that. I am on my 3rd "wand" and believe or not the original vacuum (7810 I think) just bit the dust (no pun intended). When we got it we never thought it would last more than a year or two. We were very wrong!! Used to use 100 grit almost exclusively but a couple years ago I switched to 120. I generally break in a new pad by grinding it on a metal corner bead for a minute to take off the heavy grit. After that a single pad generally lasts a whole house. Has anyone ever changed the bearing behind the sanding pad before? Seems like an easy enough job as long as it is not pressed into place. I've got the head torn down, but can't figure out how to get the abrasive disc (the disc that keeps the sanding pad from slipping) off the threaded spindle.


Snap ring pliers,also be careful with the white metal piece around the head they break way too easy-be gentle with it,when you purchase the bearing buy 2 and extra snap ring-- we replace the black dust hose with sump pump hose ;same stuff[50' roll] we own 3 sanders;since 1997,I replaced the PC vac with a craftsman [more powerful] you just have to bang the filter off each room or evry 20 or so sheets,my vacs last about 4 years[$99]


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## croozer

*porta cable sanders*

I have been using them for 10 years now and when coupled to a good vac, there is no comparison. They are the way to finish drywall.Having said that my first one lasted about 8 years and gave me great, reliable service. My new one is a pile of crap. You name anything that can go wrong with them and it has. Cost more in repairs than to purchase. 
As for a vacuum, I use starmix, a very very good german brand that I have found very reliable.
You guys using 100-120 grit disks, what are you topping with, hot mud?
I top with usg mid weight and use a 220 disk and only have the machine on 1-3 speed setting. This gives a great finish and a quick light check and touch up with a soft sponge and your done. 
Ive sanded hundreds of houses by hand in the early days, but I wouldnt even consider doing one by hand now.


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## cazna

I had a karcher cheap as yellow vacumm with a festool 150mm sander on it for years at first, or after hand sanding that is.
Went well never let me down at all, the bearing went in the sander and it started to wobble so i splashed out and got a festool vacuum and another 150mm hand held sander, like a panel beaters sander, used that for ages too but got fed up with swinging on it so got a flex giraffe sander, like a porter cable, but the red one, and hooked it to the festool vacumm, goes great had it for 7 years or so now, another great german product, dam they build some fine gear, if they made drywall auto tools i would think it would be very well made indeed. Oh and only 220g sanding as well, i do give it a quick swipe over with the 360 as well to remove any stray machine marks, and a flex edge lightly in the corners before checking it a sanding block, which i have found the 3m sandblaster sanding blocks 180g a fantastic block, very nice and square and the the 180g is more like 220g, they are yellow in colour.


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## Capt-sheetrock

cazna said:


> I had a karcher cheap as yellow vacumm with a festool 150mm sander on it for years at first, or after hand sanding that is.
> Went well never let me down at all, the bearing went in the sander and it started to wobble so i splashed out and got a festool vacuum and another 150mm hand held sander, like a panel beaters sander, used that for ages too but got fed up with swinging on it so got a flex giraffe sander, like a porter cable, but the red one, and hooked it to the festool vacumm, goes great had it for 7 years or so now, another great german product, dam they build some fine gear, if they made drywall auto tools i would think it would be very well made indeed. Oh and only 220g sanding as well, i do give it a quick swipe over with the 360 as well to remove any stray machine marks, and a flex edge lightly in the corners before checking it a sanding block, which i have found the 3m sandblaster sanding blocks 180g a fantastic block, very nice and square and the the 180g is more like 220g, they are yellow in colour.


 I have three PC sanders, The first one I bouhgt was in 1976, it is still running, and has never had anything but the brushes go out in it.

BTW, I use 150 grit.

Never used a 360, I do use a sponge in the corners, but with a PC, you don't need anything else,,,, even if its made in America


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## DSJOHN

Capt---I think you mean 1996?


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## lubedude

*PC drywall sander*

I recently purchased one to do a small job and the motor burned out within 15 minutes. I think there is a design flaw with this tool so I would be carefull about spending this kind of money.



oruscire said:


> Has anyone used the PC Drywall Sander (model # 7800)? I recently saw this on a job and I was quit impressed. It seems like it would be a lot easier to then hand sanding. Is the unit worth the cost? Does it hold up on the job site? I did notice that it was a great way to reduce the dust when it was attached to the vacuum.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts?


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## Tim0282

That seems weird. I have had three since the year they came out. I have only replaced the cable in them. They have served me very well! I have a hard time thinking there is a design flaw in them. Maybe mine are so old they were built right. 
You spent nearly a thousand dollars on one to do a small job??


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## boco

lubedude said:


> I recently purchased one to do a small job and the motor burned out within 15 minutes. I think there is a design flaw with this tool so I would be carefull about spending this kind of money.


 I have had a few PCs over the past 15 years and have never had a motor blow out yet. They are not gonna last foreever, but you should get a few years out of them. i would simply return to where you purchased it and get another or refund.


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## Tim0282

Did you buy a used one? Or did you have the speed turned down so low you had to push it? Something is very fishy here.......


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## Tim0282

Hey lubedude, what is your trade? Your profile says Porter Cable Sander. Interesting trade...


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## Tim0282

Aaaaa lubedude, did you fall asleep? 
Do you happen to sell some other brand of drywall sander?
Something is very fishy here....
I'm always game for a new kind of sander or tool! I'll buy just about anything at least once. :yes:


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## 2buckcanuck

Tim0282 said:


> Aaaaa lubedude, did you fall asleep?
> Do you happen to sell some other brand of drywall sander?
> Something is very fishy here....
> I'm always game for a new kind of sander or tool! I'll buy just about anything at least once. :yes:


I think you posted in the wrong thread tim

I think lubedudes problem is in his name

We call cannabis oil "Lube"

So maybe lubedude smoked a big fatty, and forgot to turn his sander on:whistling2:


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## Kiwiman

lubedude said:


> I recently purchased one to do a small job and the motor burned out within 15 minutes. I think there is a design flaw with this tool so I would be carefull about spending this kind of money.


Is there a saboteur in our midst? it sounds like you are describing a cheap knock off brand and not the true porter cable. :shifty:


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## Jason

I don't think the PCs are especially well made. First one I bought quit after only a couple jobs. It seems that someone decided to install a Chinese made bearing in the head and the seals failed. Don't even want to start about the spindle on that machine, but it had to be out of China. I've had flex drives unwind within a few hours of use as well, and that usually takes out another part, like the sheath.

This is typical of tool makers. $.02 parts in a $1000 tool. PC was no help at all, and of course the shop where I bought it already had my money, so....

My favorite practical joke PC plays on us is the little hole drilled in the extraction tube near the motor. 

As I've said before, I own two. Love running them but they're unreliable as hell.


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## cazna

My flex giraffe has been great, Had it for 7 years never had a problem, Solid and well built but i do paint as well so im prob not hammering it as much as some of you guys are.


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## 1drywaller

I just bought a PC. I work primarily by myself and had a house to sand and thought that even if the PC proved to be non-functional for the large jobs because of issues with swirling and so on, it would be great for renos because of the dust extraction system (several renos have been coming my way as my cousin just opened a branch of an insurance restoration business). I ordered the PC but didn't receive it until after I'd sanded the house but was able to use it on the garage, about 3200BF. It went well enough. I then used it two weeks later to sand a ceiling after I'd scraped of stucco (the type where the compound is rolled on then punched with a brush, the proper name of the techniques escapes me). I was halfway through the job, maybe twenty minutes of labour performed and shut the PC off for a second. It wont't turn back on. I flip the switch and it seems like the head is trying to rotate but can't. If I give the head a spin myself it might rotate 2-4 more times but then stops. I'm dropping it off at one of PC's contracted warranty repair centers in a day or two unless anyone out there has any suggestions? I'd never seen one used before but made a leap of faith after reading a few reviews on this forum and others and reading the results of a study conducted by an Ontario university and WSIB (I think those were the authors) which were favourable.


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## alltex

The best thing this site did for me was sell me on the PC .Maybe my shouders would have lasted longer if i had one sooner.I do it about like the captan ,no need for a pole any more .


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## Jason

1drywaller said:


> I just bought a PC. I work primarily by myself and had a house to sand and thought that even if the PC proved to be non-functional for the large jobs because of issues with swirling and so on, it would be great for renos because of the dust extraction system (several renos have been coming my way as my cousin just opened a branch of an insurance restoration business). I ordered the PC but didn't receive it until after I'd sanded the house but was able to use it on the garage, about 3200BF. It went well enough. I then used it two weeks later to sand a ceiling after I'd scraped of stucco (the type where the compound is rolled on then punched with a brush, the proper name of the techniques escapes me). I was halfway through the job, maybe twenty minutes of labour performed and shut the PC off for a second. It wont't turn back on. I flip the switch and *it seems like the head is trying to rotate but can't.* If I give the head a spin myself it might rotate 2-4 more times but then stops. I'm dropping it off at one of PC's contracted warranty repair centers in a day or two unless anyone out there has any suggestions? I'd never seen one used before but made a leap of faith after reading a few reviews on this forum and others and reading the results of a study conducted by an Ontario university and WSIB (I think those were the authors) which were favourable.


This sounds exactly like a bearing problem. If I remember right, the size you'll need is a 6001 (or possibly a 6008, just show 'em the part at a bearing shop). The only unusual tools you'll need for disassembling the head and removing the bearing are circlip pliers, internal and external. For your sake, I hope you have a circlip on the back of the spindle instead of what I had on machine #1.

I installed an NSK double backed sealed bearing and it has performed well. You might want to change your flex drive cable, or at least reverse it, since a failed bearing will stress it. If it busts it'll cause further dramas.


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## croozer

*porter cable sanders*

All of these problems that have been mentioned have happened to my pc. As I said earlier in this thread, my old one, purchased 9-10 yrs ago performed flawlessly through hundreds of houses, but the new one 2yo?? is a pile of junk. It is running ok now, but has been basically re-built by my local tool repair guys. I asked them if I had a lemon or are they all junk now, and they said that they certainly have noticed a marked increase in problems with them over the last couple of years...anyway, when they are going they sure beat hand sanding...good luck


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## Drywaller

I also bought one of the first ones to come out and it is still going strong,I did have to rebuild it a few times,Ive changed the brushes so much over the years that I wore out the armature on the motor and had to replace that.Mine has taken a lot of abuse.And would never hand sand again and havent for 10 or 12 years.
220 grit and knowing how to operate the tool is what you need to minimize any swirls.


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## igorson

ha i use Porter cable without any vacuum and bags and i do very accurate drywall sanding. The secrete is in masking areas where it should be clean.
http://1drywall.com/services.html


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## joepro0000

Mine broke for the 2th time in 5 years, in the middle of my last job. I sent it to the repair place where there authorized to repair it. Then on my next job, I used it with 1 cord and a 3-way, and it started smoking. At first I thought it was the dust, then looked closely, and noticed the cable was melting. So I had no choice but to go buy another one - 489.00 - and sent the melted on back to the repair shop. I highly recommend having 2 or 3 for this reason, but they are the best. 1 thing is don't think they will sand everything perfect, you still need to give a quick pass for the pole on the edges, and fine tune with a sponge.


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## Jason

joepro0000 said:


> Mine broke for the 2th time in 5 years, in the middle of my last job. I sent it to the repair place where there authorized to repair it. Then on my next job, I used it with 1 cord and a 3-way, and it started smoking. At first I thought it was the dust, then looked closely, and noticed the cable was melting. So I had no choice but to go buy another one - 489.00 - and sent the melted on back to the repair shop. I highly recommend having 2 or 3 for this reason, but they are the best. 1 thing is don't think they will sand everything perfect, you still need to give a quick pass for the pole on the edges, and fine tune with a sponge.


 
Hmmm, I haven't seen that before. You mean the black drive cable sheath between the head and tube? Which part of it was melting? Was it where it meets the head?


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## joepro0000

Jason said:


> Hmmm, I haven't seen that before. You mean the black drive cable sheath between the head and tube? Which part of it was melting? Was it where it meets the head?


The thicket cable, between the head and tube. It melted halfway in the middle. I feel it might of been because I used 1 extension cord and a 3 way or that they used a cheap part for the replacement.:furious:


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## Jason

joepro0000 said:


> The thicket cable, between the head and tube. It melted halfway in the middle. I feel it might of been because I used 1 extension cord and a 3 way or that they used a cheap part for the replacement.:furious:


 
That's definitely suspect. Unless the flexdrive inside it was frayed and was cutting it's way through then that part should survive no problem.

I always slather a new flexdrive cable in high temp grease but that doesn't sound like it would have made much difference for you. 

Yep, great machines... when you're not repairing them.


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## Capt-sheetrock

just to re-iterate an old point. You can buy a PC screwgun, take the nose and handle off, and put the motor in you sander,, it will fit right in. screw-gun $89.00 replacement motor $150.00

I keep alot of brushes around, cause the drywall dust is gonna eat em up.

Low voltaqge (small cords and 3-ways) are gonna eat your brushes up and kill your motor,,,,, get some BIG CORDS

Most of the time,,, the cable screws up and melts the tube twit the head and pole, so just figure on replacing both of them at the same time.

and your right DSJohn,,, it was 96, not 76 (sorry bout that):thumbsup:


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## Tim0282

Good thinking there, Capt! I haven't had a motor burn out. Just the cable a few times.


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## taprfix

I'D LISTEN TO THE OLD SCHOOL GUYS.WITH PROPER MUD PLACEMENT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SAND 7 TO 10 THOUSAND SQUARE FEET A DAY,WITH ONLY A POLE SANDER,DEPENDING ON THE CONFIGURATION OF THE HOUSE. eg.[cieling hieght,bulkheads...etc]


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## moore

taprfix said:


> I'D LISTEN TO THE OLD SCHOOL GUYS.WITH PROPER MUD PLACEMENT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SAND 7 TO 10 THOUSAND SQUARE FEET A DAY,WITH ONLY A POLE SANDER,DEPENDING ON THE CONFIGURATION OF THE HOUSE. eg.[cieling hieght,bulkheads...etc]


du wah?:blink: With an idiot stick? No way.. 10,000 ft. how many Mexicans?


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## Tim0282

Hit and miss sanding. More miss than hit. Maybe if spraying all with knockdown....


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## Mudslinger

....


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## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> du wah?:blink: With an idiot stick? No way.. 10,000 ft. how many Mexicans?


I agree with taprfix, anything that is white like snow, us Canucks know how to handle it.

10,000 sq ft is no big deal for me and the dumb arse, most of our houses are KD, with just the bathroom, closets, laundry rooms painted ceilings sometimes the garage. If it was all paint, would still get it sanded out, just not checked out (maybe), all depends on the house really.

When done by machine, when everything is done right and tight, there's little sanding, and checking by light


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## robert seke

Kozzmo said:


> 240 took off way too much ? Sounds like your pushing way too hard .Ease up on the pressure, but keep it flat{obviously}Maybe you could slow the tool down to 2 or 3.We also get paid for a good sanding job.I think it can make or break all the effort in finishing.Love to see those sharp, clean corners !That is done best by hand with a wore out piece of round sand paper, folded in half..works perfect !


Try 320 Joest... It will give you what you are looking for. Orders can be placed at 661-709-9072.:thumbup:


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## JustMe

taprfix said:


> I'D LISTEN TO THE OLD SCHOOL GUYS.WITH PROPER MUD PLACEMENT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SAND 7 TO 10 THOUSAND SQUARE FEET A DAY,WITH ONLY A POLE SANDER,DEPENDING ON THE CONFIGURATION OF THE HOUSE. eg.[cieling hieght,bulkheads...etc]


Which old school guy(s) are you referring to? Some use a PC. Unless 'old school guys' is being defined as anyone who doesn't use a PC?

I've been known to at times skim off the top layer of (especially) flats with a PC before pole sand finishing them. It saves me time and effort. I (usually) don't hook it up to a vac, but make a fairly quick pass over the flats with it, and the job turns out the same.


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## Bazooka-Joe

*true*



moore said:


> du wah?:blink: With an idiot stick? No way.. 10,000 ft. how many Mexicans?



That is true I blew out 10 000 sq last week, I did not waste any time and have to say that is the first time I did it cause I am not a very good sander


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## Bazooka-Joe

*right and tight*



2buckcanuck said:


> I agree with taprfix, anything that is white like snow, us Canucks know how to handle it.
> 
> 10,000 sq ft is no big deal for me and the dumb arse, most of our houses are KD, with just the bathroom, closets, laundry rooms painted ceilings sometimes the garage. If it was all paint, would still get it sanded out, just not checked out (maybe), all depends on the house really.
> 
> When done by machine, when everything is done right and tight, there's little sanding, and checking by light


right and tight so true the better the job the easier it is saves a couple pesos anyhoo:blink:


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## guijarrero

Kiwiman said:


> Is there a saboteur in our midst? it sounds like you are describing a cheap knock off brand and not the true porter cable. :shifty:












Y found site here in DWT publicity.. 
http://www.kingdrywall.com/

Is this the cheap knock off brand you are talking about?


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## Bazooka-Joe

2buckcanuck said:


> I agree with taprfix, anything that is white like snow, us Canucks know how to handle it.
> 
> 10,000 sq ft is no big deal for me and the dumb arse, most of our houses are KD, with just the bathroom, closets, laundry rooms painted ceilings sometimes the garage. If it was all paint, would still get it sanded out, just not checked out (maybe), all depends on the house really.
> 
> When done by machine, when everything is done right and tight, there's little sanding, and checking by light



Hey 2Buckster Rhymes you been Practicing Rap at work?


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