# Best type of mud...?



## SaskMud

Obviously bazooka, taping compound

Mud Runner???
Boxes???

Anyone played around with different types of mud for these tools?


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## Checkers

My favorite combo is:
Taping: Hamilton's Light Taping
Everything Else: USG Plus 3
Spray Textures: ProRoc Easi-Tex
Hand Textures: Hamilton's Light Topping
I've used all kinds of other stuff though!
It's all personal preference, and mud changes over time.
From what I hear, Plus 3 used to be horrible, but now it's awesome again.
So if you've refused to use a mud for awhile, maybe give it a try again to see if it has changed!


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## McDusty

you are in Saskatoon? 

i HIGHLY recommend Synko 'yellow' (taping) and Synko 'green' (light finishing) that stuff is the bees knees. Get Synko 'red' (classic finish) if you can't find any 'green'


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## Capt-sheetrock

I use Easy-Finish from Lowes, cause its 2.50 cheaper than anything else. 

I don't use light-wieght at all. Not that there is anything wrong with it, its just a regonial thing. Round here if you use light-wieght, NOBODY takes you serious. I know, thats stupid, but I do live here.


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## Bill from Indy

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I use Easy-Finish from Lowes, cause its 2.50 cheaper than anything else.
> 
> I don't use light-wieght at all. Not that there is anything wrong with it, its just a regonial thing. Round here if you use light-wieght, NOBODY takes you serious. I know, thats stupid, but I do live here.


i thought that easy-finish said on the side of the bucket wonder putty for homeowners capt?.....lmao...i'm with ya though.,..i don't care what it is as long as it can take soap..plus 3 is a nightmare to touch up though because it is so damn soft...i usually stick with usg midweight or proform multi-use


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## McDusty

Bill from Indy said:


> i thought that easy-finish said on the side of the bucket wonder putty for homeowners capt?.....lmao...i'm with ya though.,..i don't care what it is as long as it can take soap..plus 3 is a nightmare to touch up though because it is so damn soft...i usually stick with usg midweight or proform multi-use



easy-finish is up there with one of the worst i've ever used. 

what you do you mean 'as long as it can take soap'?


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## tricounty dwall

i usually run ruco out of the box because its 6.50 a box. and i run black top proform on my angles.


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## Checkers

Bill From Indy, I will agree with you on that one haha. 

McDusty, a lot of tapers put dish soap in their mud around here. I think that's what he means.


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## Bill from Indy

mcdusty

I put soap in all my tool mud except for the bazooka..it flows better through boxes and pits less..ever have to swipe a flat 2 or 3 times with a box to get pits out? put a little dish soap in your mud and go to 1 pull...makes a difference if your boxing 500bd a day..you will turn a 500bd job into a 1000 or 1500bd job if you have to rerun every flat 2 or 3x...just don't go overboard..it can literally run off the wall...a $1 bottle of palmolive from the dollar general store should last 25 boxes or buckets


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## McDusty

that's what i thought you were going to say... sure soap does what you describe... but paint doesn't stick to soap. see one of my previous threads about people putting soap in their mud. big no no. if mud manufacturers wanted soap in their mud, they would put it in there from the start. but hey... whatever's workin for ya. again, paint does not stick to soap.


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## Bill from Indy

McDusty said:


> that's what i thought you were going to say... sure soap does what you describe... but paint doesn't stick to soap. see one of my previous threads about people putting soap in their mud. big no no. if mud manufacturers wanted soap in their mud, they would put it in there from the start. but hey... whatever's workin for ya. again, paint does not stick to soap.


in 20+yrs of finishing, i have never had a painter complain about adhesion issues..I have heard from painters that they have had the problem before....maybe other finishers are using too much soap...it don't take much to be affective...i'm not saying your wrong mcdusty, just that I don't have that issue

as for mud manufacturers, they know it is happening..if it is severe, they won't warrant the material...I have never used any mud through tools that don't run better with soap, although rapid coat is close..capt told me about a mud that is made by proform that is machine grade, but have yet to get my rep to get me some to try


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## [email protected]

Magnum is the tops, but USG if the weekend (Home Depotand Slowe's), Freeman if I'm pinching pennies(they make a tool mud called free flo)


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## tricounty dwall

I have been putting soap in my mud for years and never had a problem. But like bill said dont go overboard. Just a squirt. If u put to much it burns ur eyes when u sand. And yeah proform makes a red top mud called machine grade. check it out its real good


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## Bill from Indy

tricounty dwall said:


> I have been putting soap in my mud for years and never had a problem. But like bill said dont go overboard. Just a squirt. If u put to much it burns ur eyes when u sand. And yeah proform makes a red top mud called machine grade. check it out its real good


maybe it is more region specific? I'm going to bug my rep again when im at supply house and see if i can persuade him a little better


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## McDusty

he's in Canada so he won't have access to a lot of those brands. Get Synko and enjoy.


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## Bevelation

ProRoc > Synko.


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## Mudstar

Bevelation said:


> ProRoc > Synko.


I think you might be wrong about that 

ProRoc is a Certainteed product and sux 


I use CGC lite (red box) and is a USG Company and makes Synko as well


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## WallDoctor

I've been using USG All-Purpose (taping) and Plus 3 (coating) for years. Very satisfied with it and being as its sold at Home Depot & Lowes-- it's cheaper than what I can get from my drywall supplier.

As far as soap, I only did it once and nobody told me how much to put in the pail so I used 1/2 a bottle of soap. It went on walls super nice-- just glided off my tools but I was crying the whole time I was sanding. Put the pail with a lid on it in back of my storage room and then 3 years later needed a little mud for a quick repair, opened up the pail expecting it to be rotten as anything and the mud was still in perfect condition-- with a wonderful lemony scent.


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## McDusty

hahaha that's hilarious. from what i understand, 1/2 bottle sounds like a helluva lot.


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## DSJOHN

I kinda like the mud that makes me money!!!!! Around here its mostly Usg,I do like GB Pro form when available


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## Capt-sheetrock

DSJOHN said:


> I kinda like the mud that makes me money!!!!! Around here its mostly Usg,I do like GB Pro form when available


Me too, I hear ya and agree with ya. 

My favorite mud is pro-form Machine grade (burgandy lid) however its 12.50 a bucket were easy-sand is 8.50 a bucket. Thats just too much of a spread in this day of "I can get it done cheaper". :thumbsup:


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## BedRoc

McDusty said:


> you are in Saskatoon?
> 
> i HIGHLY recommend Synko 'yellow' (taping) and Synko 'green' (light finishing) that stuff is the bees knees. Get Synko 'red' (classic finish) if you can't find any 'green'


Weird that I found someone from Saskatoon on here. ProRoc is the way to go. We find that the Synko taping draggs way too much, especially when flushing. We never use a topping mud EVER! Always 2nd coat A.P and skim. We had tried topping both ProRoc and Synco. Both were waaaay to soft and scratch, allthough Synco scratched less, it was still like putting on powder. When sanding, its 150 for rough sanding the 7" and 12" between coats, and 180 grit for final. When checkout comes around, we never have the flaking that comes with topping, and the skim makes sanding a breese:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck

yeah ,I'm starting to like the prorock (yellow box) definite all purpose mud ,little tougher to sand but I'm liking that,no scratching,180 grit,may use machine mud on screws though,sh*ts way too soft but use nail spotter last coat so.....somethings changed with the cgc red we always use to use


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## Bevelation

Mudstar said:


> I think you might be wrong about that
> 
> ProRoc is a Certainteed product and sux


Got a reason why?

ProRoc taping = far more slick than Synko taping. ProRoc actually bonds the tape to the wall. You won't be able to peel it off once it sets. Tape put on with Synko peels off completely.

ProRoc green finishing = again more slick. Pushes out of machines better than Synko. Better to polish with. Doesn't draw out moisture so fast in the bucket. Smells better. Sands out smoother. Produces better coated angles than any Synko product I've used. Slightly harder set, but sands out better without scratching like Synko.


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## 2buckcanuck

whats the box colours bevalation wear SORTA new to this mud
-example cgc products
-green -tape
-red - all purpose
-blue - finish


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## Bevelation

2buckcanuck said:


> whats the box colours bevalation wear SORTA new to this mud
> -example cgc products
> -green -tape
> -red - all purpose
> -blue - finish


In Canada:
Yellow = taping
Blue = all purpose
Green = finishing
Red = Classic Finish by Synko (sometimes preferred instead of Synko Green)

Within Synko there are two blues. Light blue for the lightweight all purpose, and dark blue for their Classic all purpose.


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## big george

Anyone from the east coast?The only proroc product here is best mud,or cgc all purpose and light weight.


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## Mudstar

Bevelation said:


> Got a reason why?
> 
> ProRoc taping = far more slick than Synko taping. ProRoc actually bonds the tape to the wall. You won't be able to peel it off once it sets. Tape put on with Synko peels off completely.
> 
> ProRoc green finishing = again more slick. Pushes out of machines better than Synko. Better to polish with. Doesn't draw out moisture so fast in the bucket. Smells better. Sands out smoother. Produces better coated angles than any Synko product I've used. Slightly harder set, but sands out better without scratching like Synko.


I do use ProRoc taping (yellow)for tape only, as you state its like glue.

I don't like ProRoc's other products but have used it with success but you get less product with more application work for what it cost per. sqft. That's why its not my first choice for coating. 

I find that CGC red fills in with less air pocks and sets faster with a more consistent finish in hardness then ProRoc blue or green. 

A harder compound works out for a flatter product for me and less likely to be scratched up when brushed up against which is likely to happen a couple times once I'm gone.


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## Bevelation

^I don't know what the deal is with Synko Red, but it doesn't seem to set as hard as ProRoc for me lately. In the angles, I think it hangs down too much. ProRoc keeps its shape better for me. Weird.

Where do you find that it gets you less product? Machines or hand application?


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## Rolly

right now I use synko classic, it seems to work best for me these days but it seems to me they change the mud a bit from year to year

6 or 8 years ago I used to like synko all purpose for all the same reasons I like classic now (mainly air/porosity or lack there of), now I find it take 2 or 3 more swipes to get the air out when loading bead with synko ap, a few years earlier prorock all purpose seemed to work best.

seams like they will probably change classic soon just cause Im really liking it now lol


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## MercuryArc

I'm sure it very regional. But around here, which is SW Iowa, It's either Sheetrock, or ProForm 90% of the time. And the stinking WelCote. Terrible.

I like the ProForm with the black lid. It works well for texturing, and repairing cracks on plaster. I thin it a little and use it to tape. 
The XP for bathrooms and laundry rooms because it has mold resistant additive in it.
Use the ProForm Topping for finish work.


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## Bevelation

Anyone in Canada ever used Hamilton mud? How is it?


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## Scott_w

Just saw this at HD anyone ever use it? It just showed up there this week.

http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...-machine-mud®-drywall-compound.aspx?pType=PRO

scott


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## 2buckcanuck

Scott_w said:


> Just saw this at HD anyone ever use it? It just showed up there this week.
> 
> http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...-machine-mud®-drywall-compound.aspx?pType=PRO
> 
> scott


machine mud ?????? old news,hand tapers seem to like it more than machine tapers,
CONS ,not to good for laying tape (my opinion[glue??] takes way way way too long to dry,very soft mud (too soft) too easy to sand,scratches too easy,known to flake off walls when painters paint,
PROS,, like shaving cream ,fluffy like,(if you like that)easy to sand,very easy to work porosity out the more you wipe it,low shrinkage.
what i SOMETIMES !! use it for is to throw a few big scoops into any type of mud that gives you too many fish eyes (porosity) if your gunning to do 2 coat bead on last coat .what i always use it for is last coat on my screws b/c I use a nail spotter on last coat, and the ****s way too easy to sand ,would not use it as a stand alone mud though,b/c of the flaking issues and drying time


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## D's

Bevelation said:


> Anyone in Canada ever used Hamilton mud? How is it?


I live close to the border with Montana so last time I was down there I grabbed a couple dozen boxes of their finishing mud and setting compound. It was definitely cheaper than ProRoc by volume. I think their setting compounds were identical to ProRoc. The finishing mud ran and sanded just fine - it actually has a slight tint when wet so it's easy to see what's been coated and not. I'd buy it again. They even have bible quotes on their box!

Since we're on this topic - anyone have advice on reducing material costs, like buying by the pallet and storing it? Is it worth the hassle?

D'S


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## Tim0282

If you get a cahnce, you ought to try Murco all purpose. Best creamy mud out there. Drys hard, shrinks less and tears the paper when you scrape a chunck off. Drys faster than all the others I've tried.


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## Capt-sheetrock

One thing that keeps this thread going, is that we all live in differant areas, and some of the mud you guys talk about is not available in other areas, some of em I have never heard of,,,,,so we use what is available to us.

I hit that link to check out that mud that someone placed on here,, and all I got was a screen that asked me what part of Canada I lived in,,,,,, point made. In other words, Gomer Pyle ain't ever heard of that type of mud.


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## Tim0282

One of Murco's plants is in Palaski Tennessee. That's kind of in your neck of the woods. You're missing out if you don't try it. :whistling2:


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## Mudstar

Tim0282 said:


> One of Murco's plants is in Palaski Tennessee. That's kind of in your neck of the woods. You're missing out if you don't try it. :whistling2:


I'm wishing I could try some of this Murco's the way people on here have been raving about it the past couple yrs.
:wallbash:


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## MIKE FROM NH

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Me too, I hear ya and agree with ya.
> 
> My favorite mud is pro-form Machine grade (burgandy lid) however its 12.50 a bucket were easy-sand is 8.50 a bucket. Thats just too much of a spread in this day of "I can get it done cheaper". :thumbsup:


My favorate mud was Lafrage Rapid Coat, but local supplier stopped carrying it.. Use a bunch of Plus 3 and Plus 3 w/dust control. But now I'm temped to spend the under $10/bucket for Easy Finish at Blowes. Cause at the end of the day...if I can save $50 on even a small job I'm gonna do it.


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## Tim0282

4.75 for Murco Boxes... Good mud...


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## Capt-sheetrock

MIKE FROM NH said:


> My favorate mud was Lafrage Rapid Coat, but local supplier stopped carrying it.. Use a bunch of Plus 3 and Plus 3 w/dust control. But now I'm temped to spend the under $10/bucket for Easy Finish at Blowes. Cause at the end of the day...if I can save $50 on even a small job I'm gonna do it.


And really, after its all said and done, all that matters is how it looks when its painted. Some mud makes it easier for us to work, but the end result will be the same with cheap mud as it is for exspensive mud.


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## Capt-sheetrock

Tim0282 said:


> 4.75 for Murco Boxes... Good mud...


If i ever see some Murco mud, I will try it


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## Tim0282

They will bring it right to your shop if you want. I drove 675 miles and picked up four pallets three weeks ago. They are bringing a semi load this week. 18 pallets. Finally made room in the shop today for it. Whew! It is worth your time to get on their website and find the one closest to you. They have plants all over the U.S. And they ship to other countries.


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## Tim0282

Murco shrinks less than the big three and has more glue in it and works in the tools like you put soap in it. The light is easy to knife and box. I don't work for them or have any connection with them except buy their mud. It is a better mud than USG, Gold Bond or any the rest I've tried. Magnum comes the closest. But they don't really like to sell to guys like me. I want a whole semi load in my shop. They only want to sell to suppliers. I tried. They told me they had no interest in selling three trucks a year to a small company like mine. Oh well... Murco said "when do you want it?" The biggest drawback I have with Murco is their bucket is thicker than the others and is kinda hard to get the lid off. I just buy four or five pallets and the rest boxes. Save the three bucks not buying the bucket. So buy some and tyr it, you won't go back! Murco Wall Products. They have great primer and paint, too! OK, I'll get off my little soap box and shut up about it!


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## cazna

I want some too now, but pigs might fly as well, dont think i will ever see a bucket here but you never know, might drop a hint to my rep, cheers.


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## Tim0282

I was thinking they do sell to a manufactured home company there. I'll ask.


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## rebel20

Tim0282 said:


> They will bring it right to your shop if you want. I drove 675 miles and picked up four pallets three weeks ago. They are bringing a semi load this week. 18 pallets. Finally made room in the shop today for it. Whew! It is worth your time to get on their website and find the one closest to you. They have plants all over the U.S. And they ship to other countries.


 
I'm curious what's the shipping cost is that 4.75 with or without shipping


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## Tim0282

Shipping is around twelve hundred dollars on 44,000 pounds. Roughly 18 pallets. 48 per pallet. Adds about 1.50 per box. Supplier around here sells for 11.75 per box. Box stores (Menards. Lowes, Home DePot) are a dollar more. Last year shipping was 700.00


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## michel1949

*machine mud*

if you try machine mud you may hae a surprise..
when i started with machine mud i found it normal and mixed it with a few cups of water..the next time they bought some over i dint check and added a few cups of water what a mess it was then too watery
the consistance is never the same i wonder why they call it machine mud 

i rather use proroc or cgc at least it s always the same consistance.


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## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I don't use light-wieght at all. Not that there is anything wrong with it, its just a regonial thing. Round here if you use light-wieght, NOBODY takes you serious. I know, thats stupid, but I do live here.


Interesting....everyone here uses light-weight. I think there's something in the water that makes us all unusually delicate.

I will say this...light muds are lousy for level V, unless you use an AP to top & skim and a light topping for touch up. 

I think I read this whole thread the other night, and I was surprised that no one mentions Beadex? Is this a regional thing?


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## Capt-sheetrock

SlimPickins said:


> Interesting....everyone here uses light-weight. I think there's something in the water that makes us all unusually delicate.
> 
> I will say this...light muds are lousy for level V, unless you use an AP to top & skim and a light topping for touch up.
> 
> I think I read this whole thread the other night, and I was surprised that no one mentions Beadex? Is this a regional thing?


Slim, must be,, I have never heard of it.

I would never use light mud for level 5. however, for level 4 or less, light mud is fine. 

Less shrikage, fewer coats over metal, ahhhhhhh
Tell me why I don't like this mud again ????


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## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> Interesting....everyone here uses light-weight. I think there's something in the water that makes us all unusually delicate.
> 
> I will say this...light muds are lousy for level V, unless you use an AP to top & skim and a light topping for touch up.
> 
> I think I read this whole thread the other night, and I was surprised that no one mentions Beadex? Is this a regional thing?


level 5 work?????? guess you don't half to worry about no one moving into your 500 mile radius to steal your work now,lol:jester:
Find most tapers in my area use good taping mud then a all purpose for every thing else,the tougher the mud is to sand the better.Because my work is so SMOOTH !!!!!the only reason I sand is so the paint will stick to my work cause it's so smooth
anyone looking for a shovel yet :whistling2:


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## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Slim, must be,, I have never heard of it.
> 
> I would never use light mud for level 5. however, for level 4 or less, light mud is fine.


 Beadex is a USG product, and I really like the mud line, their light muds are great but the topping scratches if you sneeze near it....good for sanding, not so good for touch-up on smooth. 

We were on a Level V, and the "drywall" company who subbed me out bought only light taping, and light topping. Tape with taping, all other work with light topping. Compound this with tapers who didn't create a new edge on every pass and things got ugly real fast. I actually went and bought a 48" concrete bull float and welded some handles on it so I could do big floats in one pass (the bull float still retains some flexibility, unlike those magnesium screeds, and you can get tight edges.


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## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> level 5 work?????? guess you don't half to worry about no one moving into your 500 mile radius to steal your work now,lol:jester:
> Find most tapers in my area use good taping mud then a all purpose for every thing else,the tougher the mud is to sand the better.Because my work is so SMOOTH !!!!!the only reason I sand is so the paint will stick to my work cause it's so smooth
> anyone looking for a shovel yet :whistling2:


How do you get your work so smooth with a shovel?


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## 2buckcanuck

hey slimpickins .....when you bought that 48" concrete bull float,and you welded some handles on it.....did it happen........to you know.............look like a .............SHOVEL!!!!!
a ha got you back ....couldn't resist....cheers:drink:


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## williamsondrywall

anyone ever you finish line mud?


http://www.finishline-products.com/products.htm


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## DLSdrywall

My DWC uses toughrock (georgia pacific) done 5 houses with it.
PRO's - easy to sand, dosen't shrink, dries fast.
CON's - super soft have to be carefull when sanding should use 180 but i use 150, and if this makes sense its too transparent. It say gold on the box. But the best part is they only charge us 14.75 a box:thumbup:


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## eazyrizla

as for brands sinko. i use to think sinko was chit, i found it to be a chunky mud. then i started to use a different technique useing stiffer mud. and i found that sinko easyer to pull. less back trolling.


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## Drywall_King

In canada i liked hamilton red, in australia all top coats and all purpose is garbage


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## thefinisher

williamsondrywall said:


> anyone ever you finish line mud?
> 
> 
> http://www.finishline-products.com/products.htm


A homeowner that bought his own material stocked this mud on our job and it worked pretty well. Looked to be a decent mud. Ruco middle weight is all we use otherwise. Don't believe in all that taping and topping BS. If your a good finisher then it will come out right regardless. Never, ever, not once had an adhesion problem with ruco products and we powersand the sh!t out of it with 150 and comes out perfect.


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## scottktmrider

This kind of a question off the subject.Iam a hanger and dont do alot of taping but since work has been slow doing alot more of it.

Anyways iam finishing a basement and used green lid to bed coat but ran out when it came to the bathroom.The ho got the low dust compond for topping coat.

Question is since i have run out of green lid and have alot of the low dust left can i use it for the bed coat.It says on the bucket that you can use it for embeding tape but just wanted to see what the pros thought.

One more thing alot of times when i tape a recess joint the tape will ridge right in the middle where the crease is.Not a real big deal i will go back before it drys and take the end of my knife and roll it down.kind of wondering what iam doing wrong.thanks for the help.


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## PrecisionTaping

scottktmrider said:


> This kind of a question off the subject.Iam a hanger and dont do alot of taping but since work has been slow doing alot more of it.
> 
> Anyways iam finishing a basement and used green lid to bed coat but ran out when it came to the bathroom.The ho got the low dust compond for topping coat.
> 
> Question is since i have run out of green lid and have alot of the low dust left can i use it for the bed coat.It says on the bucket that you can use it for embeding tape but just wanted to see what the pros thought.
> 
> One more thing alot of times when i tape a recess joint the tape will ridge right in the middle where the crease is.Not a real big deal i will go back before it drys and take the end of my knife and roll it down.kind of wondering what iam doing wrong.thanks for the help.


Obviously some muds are better than others for taping. Depends how much glue you have in the mud. You can always use Mud Max as a compound additive.







If you don't have mud max available at a local supplier just add a little white school glue.

As for the ridge in the middle of your tape, you know there's two sides right?
That pre fold that's in the middle should go against the wall.
If you put your tape on backwards it will cause that.
It could be a number of things causing it, but that's a simple and obvious thing to check first.


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## scottktmrider

PrecisionTaping said:


> Obviously some muds are better than others for taping. Depends how much glue you have in the mud. You can always use Mud Max as a compound additive.
> View attachment 4868
> 
> If you don't have mud max available at a local supplier just add a little white school glue.
> 
> As for the ridge in the middle of your tape, you know there's two sides right?
> That pre fold that's in the middle should go against the wall.
> If you put your tape on backwards it will cause that.
> It could be a number of things causing it, but that's a simple and obvious thing to check first.


Thanks for the help pt.About the tape,yes i did just find out not too long ago there is difference in sides.I just bought one of those neefty tape holders that goes on your belt i think i had it right.Also i think i thinned my mud out too much because i didnt have much mud oozing out when i wiped it down.I had a few bubbles in the tape and i usually never have that problem.


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## BPTaper

proform black for taping,1st coat,plus 3, then green for 3rd 4th and 5th coats.
Funny thing is when I first started finishing everyone in my area used proform green for texuring,claiming it dried"whiter".5 years later when I moved 100 miles away people said use proform black for texturing because it dried "whiter"...people are funny critters


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## DirtyMudder

scottktmrider said:


> Question is since i have run out of green lid and have alot of the low dust left can i use it for the bed coat.It says on the bucket that you can use it for embeding tape but just wanted to see what the pros thought.


When I was a company man and it wasn't my nickel, I used CGC dust-control for taping and finishing; never had an issue(prefill and 2nd with setting compound). Although, it was being used for repairs, so I can't say for sure that it would hold up on green lumber.

Now that it is my nickel, I've been using CGC lite for taping and dust-control for finish(repair-work). 

I'm pricing what will be my first new construction tape job(220 - 12x54" sheet guesthouse :blink. I think I'll try the CGC regular weight for taping.


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## T-Rex

For applying the tape. I use Synco yellow taping. It drys hard its durable and your joints won't crack. For my fill and finish coats I use Synco green lite finish for those who thinks that's too soft such as some home owners I will use Synco blue all purpose. It's durable and sanding is a breeze. Now power sanders necessary lmao. Little pole sanding and go over with a sponge and light. By the way my experiences with Synco all purpose in a pale and the dust control purple lid is something you don't want to sand. I would then rather use taping mud lol but that's my 2 cents. Everyone has their preference. All depends on how you apply or even mix your mud as well.


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