# Level 5 With out a sprayer



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I have a friend that wants me to do a level 5 on his ceiling. I dont own a paint sprayer so whats the easiest way to do a level 5 finish?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Roll the mud with a 9'' roller [or bigger] Then wipe down.
I've always done it this way . Works for me.

I only roll and wipe the field of the board . IMO..Once the butts and seams are done ...Why go over em again?


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Roll the mud with a 9'' roller [or bigger] Then wipe down.
> I've always done it this way . Works for me.
> 
> I only roll and wipe the field of the board . IMO..Once the butts and seams are done ...Why go over em again?


Just to blend them in some more....... takes out the possibility of a random pin hole or anything else.


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

moore said:


> Roll the mud with a 9'' roller [or bigger] Then wipe down.
> I've always done it this way . Works for me.
> 
> I only roll and wipe the field of the board . IMO..Once the butts and seams are done ...Why go over em again?


What Moore said, only make sure you use the same mud if you don't cover the whole surface.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Just to blend them in some more....... takes out the possibility of a random pin hole or anything else.


But wouldn't that leave scratches ..And possibly cause the tape line to bleed through if wiping across a butt joint? Like I said ..Once the joints are done ..There done. There should be no pocs.....But then...I'm a white boy!!! What do I know??:jester:


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

Kinda funny smooth finish starts a post about doing a level 5. Would that not be expected with a name smooth finish lol. Just bugging you but yes paint roller works fine. Depending on the size you could also just hawk and trowel it. But I suggest the roller, it's fast and easy if not use the sandable primer that has mud in it to do the level 5. I forget what the product is called right now though


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> But wouldn't that leave scratches ..And possibly cause the tape line to bleed through if wiping across a butt joint? Like I said ..Once the joints are done ..There done. There should be no pocs.....But then...I'm a white boy!!! What do I know??:jester:


So why finish your joints, then do a level 5:blink:

Why not kill two birds with one stone.

Any final coat on a bead, joint, butt joint, screws etc is one part to fill any pocs, lines, etc and one part sanding coat.

Paint roller is ok, but I find it works better as a 2 man system, the guy wiping has to stay on top of things(if guy on roller is fast) If it's just a room or two, no need to think outside the box, just hand bomb it out.

If it was a constant, where you had to level 5 all the time, then it's worth looking into different ways.

Also, as a side note, one house I did (first house in video tour thread) There was bad drywall, had to go back and skim out ALL the walls. I did use the roller (had newb with me) and rolled out the whole wall(s). Near the end, I got lazy and began stopping at the joints, butts etc......should not of done that, had major issues at sanding edges where we stopped at joints (different mud mixture etc)........ just saying, there has to be a lot of square foot to justify pulling out a roller ,or even a paint sprayer. I think it would half to be over 2000 sq (42 sheets).

Plus hand bombing out a level 5 is good for newbs, teaches them to get a fire under their arse:yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> So why finishes your joints, then do a level 5:blink:
> 
> Why not kill two birds with one stone.
> 
> ...


Don't mind me ... I'm Still confused over what level 5 means! 
I cut the edges tight at the joints ..never overlap. If it's cut tight enough [well filed 5'' or 6''] There should very little sanding .
I use black top and green top here...SO!... I'm sure we all do what we can with the products given.:yes:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

A smooth finish said:


> I have a friend that wants me to do a level 5 on his ceiling. I dont own a paint sprayer so whats the easiest way to do a level 5 finish?


Easiest way we'd do level 5 on new board without a sprayer was rolling on something like Synko Pre-Coat and giving it a light sand after: http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/p...oat-drywall-surface-equalizer-.aspx?pType=PRO


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Don't mind me ... I'm Still confused over what level 5 means!
> I cut the edges tight at the joints ..never overlap. If it's cut tight enough [well filed 5'' or 6''] There should very little sanding .
> I use black top and green top here...SO!... I'm sure we all do what we can with the products given.:yes:


Your confused. What the hell have I been doing?


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

Toontowntaper said:


> Kinda funny smooth finish starts a post about doing a level 5. Would that not be expected with a name smooth finish lol. Just bugging you but yes paint roller works fine. Depending on the size you could also just hawk and trowel it. But I suggest the roller, it's fast and easy if not use the sandable primer that has mud in it to do the level 5. I forget what the product is called right now though


I still a newb. I havent done a lvl5 before. But people love the company name.


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## Toontowntaper (Dec 16, 2012)

Nah smooth finish was only bugging you it's not to often you have to do a level 5 but its something to learn it can save you call backs and make little extra in the pocket


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

you could box it:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> Don't mind me ... I'm Still confused over what level 5 means!


Me too:yes:

First time I heard the term, it meant a perfect taping job, free of blemishes, joints ,butts or fasteners not showing. The main theme that seemed universal to achieve this, was the whole wall was to be covered with mud.

But how they got there, is a different story

The first taper I heard the term "Level 5" from, said he had to tape out operating rooms in a Hospital. The walls had to be perfectly level b/c of the critical lighting. They would tape and coat, then fill in any hollows, starting with large straight edge, working down to a smaller one. Skim out the walls tight, sand, check with light.

Next method, it was more about the nicks and dings. So of coarse you should get them all by skimming out the whole wall, but there's so many variants, but you can mix them up....

-take walls to level 3, skim coat horizontally, then vertically, sand check with light.
-take walls to level 4, skim tight, sand, light check.
-Take walls to level 4, sand, skim tight, sand, light check.
-Take walls to level 4, skim out twice, sand, light check.
-Take walls to level 4, skim coat the field, but not over joints
- take walls to "what ever" use paint roller or sprayer.
- take walls to what ever level, use special products like Hyhide for example. think you guys get the idea:thumbup:

Main problem with a level 5 finish, is it still don't hide a chit tape job(except for the first method I described). A humped joint or butt joint will never hide no matter how many times you skim coat over it.

Then there is the light refraction/flashing/surface texture. Which begins to fall in the painting area. (too much typing). But in a nut shell, any area you coat on drywall, becomes more smoother than a area not coated, so you end up with 2 different textures. This is when painters can become our worst enemies.......by not using proper primers, applying too much paint on the wall, not rough sanding, improper coats of paint, colour of paint used..... as I said, lots of typing.

So if someone says they want a level 5, ask what their trying to achieve first.


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## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

the easiest way to do level 5 is, to, have- some body else do it for ya. ya retards


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

This is from Gyprock one of the major manufacturers in Australia. It is a bit of a read but at least it supplies some answers.


http://www.gyprock.com.au/downloads/downloads/Level5_Finish_e02d.pdf


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Level 5ing video, showing different application methods: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzTD6FKJKOc


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Just to clarify, video doesn't show hand coating walls with knife or trowel without using a roller, but that's how I've also level 5'd walls, giving them a skim. I'll thin my mud down beyond the norm for that.


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

JustMe said:


> Just to clarify, video doesn't show hand coating walls with knife or trowel without using a roller, but that's how I've also level 5'd walls, giving them a skim. I'll thin my mud down beyond the norm for that.


What level of finish is veneer plaster Considered to be.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> What level of finish is veneer plaster Considered to be.


That level of finish I'd label as being 'finished'.  Level 5ing is prepping walls before painting.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> What level of finish is veneer plaster Considered to be.


It is a level 5 as the whole surface is uniform. That is the definition of a level 5 finish. Level 5 does nothing more than equalize the absorption rate of paint between the sheetrock and the mud. If you do the roller methond I suggest going over everthing again but in the direction of the joint.


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

Thanks guys your all a big help. 

My friend just told me that they did level 5 in the rest of his house. And he just wants a ceiling in his basement done to a level 5 to match the rest of the house. So its not a real big job. But i also thing people think they got a level 5 finish but actually have a level 4.


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