# What does MSG stand for (metal studs)?



## drywallnflorida

Does anybody know what the msg stands for when writen with a steel stud ie: 25 msg galv. steel stud?


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## d-rock

Manufacturers Standard Gauge. -in your case 25.


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## drywallnflorida

d-rock said:


> Manufacturers Standard Gauge. -in your case 25.


Thanks I knew it stood for the gauge, just didn't know what the MS stood for!!:thumbup:


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## joepro0000

Are you using 25 gauge studs? 95% of my jobs are 20 gauge, thought they eliminated them. BTW- if you are, don't ever use HD's, theres are like 30 gauge.


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## drywallnflorida

joepro0000 said:


> Are you using 25 gauge studs? 95% of my jobs are 20 gauge, thought they eliminated them. BTW- if you are, don't ever use HD's, theres are like 30 gauge.


not 25 was just using that as an example, the architect calls for 22 gauge  wtf, were using 20 gauge, not gonna special order 22 gauge for a small office build out.


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## joepro0000

yea there are alot of archs that think there is a 22 gauge stud, but in reality they mean 20. Viper studs do make 25 gauge studs that feel like they are 20. Check them out.


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## d-rock

we only use 20 and better


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## drywallnflorida

joepro0000 said:


> yea there are alot of archs that think there is a 22 gauge stud, but in reality they mean 20. Viper studs do make 25 gauge studs that feel like they are 20. Check them out.


you can get 22 gauge but its a special order from the supply house which costs more than 20 gauge unless your buying a semi load at a time.


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## drywallnflorida

d-rock said:


> we only use 20 and better


we use whatever the arch. draws on the prints!


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## Whitey97

we typically use pine! ha ha ha


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## joepro0000

I feel bad for you ******, wood framing sucks. Do you guys pre-build walls, or do you install bottem 2x4, then top with laser, and fill in with studs? I had to frame a half a circle in a tower with 2x6's and it sucked. We had to use plywood and to make the radius. If we did it with metal, I would of finished in 2 hours, instead took us 8 hrs.


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## d-rock

joepro0000 said:


> I feel bad for you ******, wood framing sucks. Do you guys pre-build walls, or do you install bottem 2x4, then top with laser, and fill in with studs? I had to frame a half a circle in a tower with 2x6's and it sucked. We had to use plywood and to make the radius. If we did it with metal, I would of finished in 2 hours, instead took us 8 hrs.


 I frame with both, equally well. Wood can be faster than metal sometimes and vice-versa. I prefer metal b/c it's always straight and it's lighter. no shrinking and no chopping down forests. The wood could be used for furniture and instruments instead. One thing i know for sure, i will never fram another soffit with wood. Also, you can be more accurate and pin straight with metal.


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## Whitey97

wood is what I was taught with. I've just never tried anything else


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## Drywall Tycoon

MSG is that crap they put in 
Chinese food. Theoldlady said it's bad for me.


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## A+ Texture LLC

Mono sodium glutmate, it's also what makes beef jerky taste so good. It causes people to want to mess with sasquatch.


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## florida drywall

There was a time 22ga was as normal and common as 25ga and 20ga, the steal manufactures decided it would be more cost effective for them to stop manufacturing 22ga, as there was not much a margin difference between 20, 22 and 25 ga, so they dropped the middle one.


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## smisner50s

25 ga are the worst.there like aluminum foil.nothing under 20ga


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## drywallnflorida

smisner50s said:


> 25 ga are the worst.there like aluminum foil.nothing under 20ga


 
25 is flimmsy as  but if the arch and customer want it I give it to them!!! :thumbsup:


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## smisner50s

drywallnflorida said:


> 25 is flimmsy as  but if the arch and customer want it I give it to them!!! :thumbsup:


 agreed


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## siddle

MSG stands for Monosodium glutamate
MSG stands for Madison Square Garden
MSG stands for *M*es*s*a*g*e
MSG stands for Marine Security Guard


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## marieca3

SOOO...I'm an architect and I'm looking for a 26ga stud b/c the UL directory (from which we cannot stray) requires a 26 MSG stud for compliance with a particular UL fire-rated design...cannot find a single manufacturer who offers 26 ga stud. anyone know a mnfr. who can supply this?

also: RE 25 ga is like aluminum foil...I think the gypsum will be supporting the 26 ga stud!


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## DrywallerDustin

marieca3 said:


> SOOO...I'm an architect and I'm looking for a 26ga stud b/c the UL directory (from which we cannot stray) requires a 26 MSG stud for compliance with a particular UL fire-rated design...cannot find a single manufacturer who offers 26 ga stud. anyone know a mnfr. who can supply this?
> 
> also: RE 25 ga is like aluminum foil...I think the gypsum will be supporting the 26 ga stud!



Don't know of a manufacturer, but why can't you just find an assembly that uses a heavier gauge stud that is otherwise identical?
If you talk to the manufacturer most of them will make whatever you want, for a price, that's been my experience anyway.


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## JustMe

There's some Chinese guy running around here trying to sell stuff like that - 'cat___' something is what he goes by. Maybe you could track him down(?) (if he doesn't track you down 1st).


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## JustMe

Ran across his name (catdod) in a post. His profile: http://www.drywalltalk.com/members/catdod-4137


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## marieca3

DrywallerDustin said:


> Don't know of a manufacturer, but why can't you just find an assembly that uses a heavier gauge stud that is otherwise identical?
> If you talk to the manufacturer most of them will make whatever you want, for a price, that's been my experience anyway.


you know what - good call - I went back to the Directory and there is a detail using 25ga and a much more common size. thanks...seems obvious! lol


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## DrywallerDustin

marieca3 said:


> you know what - good call - I went back to the Directory and there is a detail using 25ga and a much more common size. thanks...seems obvious! lol


Good work! I'm a little curious why an architect would care, seems like they usually throw nonexistent or uncommon products in plans on purpose, just to be difficult


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## Deezal

I'd much rather frame with 25 gauge, lots more money in my pocket on the frame itself and boarding over it. Walls are only as strong as the framer made them, a few well placed kickers an channel and there are no problems whatsoever. Thx for coming out though


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## Deezal

Just started useing new structurally cut studs, look like a joist of sorts almost. Bonus is you can use a gauge higher than called for in some cases. First job I've ever seen them on, sorry no link or other info, anyone else know what I'm talking about?


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## gordie

Deezal said:


> Just started useing new structurally cut studs, look like a joist of sorts almost. Bonus is you can use a gauge higher than called for in some cases. First job I've ever seen them on, sorry no link or other info, anyone else know what I'm talking about?




No but I'm curious Deazle :blink::thumbsup:


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## marieca3

DrywallerDustin said:


> Good work! I'm a little curious why an architect would care, seems like they usually throw nonexistent or uncommon products in plans on purpose, just to be difficult


cause I take my projects through construction (firm policy - and one I like) and I have to face you guys on job sites and project managers at progress meetings...I like to try NOT to look like an idiot . nothing more embarrassing than designing something that can't be built! 
but this brings up a larger issue - products change so quickly and you guys have your finger on the pulse...I wish our industry was more collaborative - seems to me that a low bid environment makes for disparity among factions - call me idealistic but I wish it weren't so - been on some good projects and some bad ones...best projects are where the contractor and architect work together...just sayin


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## marieca3

gordie said:


> No but I'm curious Deazle :blink::thumbsup:


me too Gordie.


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## marieca3

thanks all. glad for the insider knowledge...


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## Deezal

Company I'm working for atm got them through steel form in Edmonton, only bad thing I noticed about them is the curled steel edges on them make it pretty much impossible to use snips or nibblers. makes it a breeze for channel or electrical/plumbing though as its 80percent open (just throwing out a number there) ill be back on the job Monday morning, will get a pic.


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## marieca3

*metal stud to masonry?*

Metal stud to exterior masonry wall: 

I'm a little wary of placing a metal stud directly to exterior masonry wall (location of the project is in the North East) as I have concerns RE: rusting and longevity. Is there a reasonably priced product out there that incorporates some kind of thermal break at the leg that could be fastened to the masonry? I'm thinking a neoprene gasket or something like that.

I don't want to fasten insulation board directly to masonry and then fur out for gypsum b/c I want the room for electrical back-boxes and runs of conduit...thoughts?


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## Deezal

Maybe blue skin or sill gasket just where the metal would fasten. Are you going with hat track (fur bar) or stud. I recommend 2 1/2 stud they'll give you the room for anything electrical etc just take an average of your wall and bump I put from the masonry a half inch from your proudest point and then cut littler scrap pieces and shoot them to your wall an fasten to the stud this way also you don't have to rely on the trueness or level of the masonry as you are setting yourself and there's barely any metal to masonry contact


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## 2buckcanuck

Coward behind a key board, you must be proud of your self.....Loser


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