# Repairing a corner



## jecky (Apr 24, 2017)

Customers demo guy ripped out a wall for plumbing and wants me to fix it. Seeking some advise from drywall guys.

This is my idea. Seem about right?

1) Cut along the pink line just to the left of the metal stud.  This stud will be the nailer for the existing wall. 

2) insert a wooden sister stud inside the metal studs open face. I can't use a metal stud as a sister because the existing metal stud faces the wrong way. See second pic. 

Or As an alternative to sistering in step 2 I could insert a metal stud into the existing track at the top and bottom. However I don't think cutting the wall to the ceiling will expose the top of the track because it's a dropped ceiling.

3) insert a strip of Sheetrock to replace the removed piece and screw to the new sister in step 2 and the corner. Insert a corner piece and I'm now flush at the two walls.

























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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

I'd cut it in the middle of the stud bay and back it with a 3 5/8" metal stud on the flat. You'll cut a nice straight line and it'll tie together nicely.


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## jecky (Apr 24, 2017)

Good idea. I probably won't be able to attach to the top of the stud track because of the dropped ceiling. Is holding it straight and screwing it into the Sheetrock adequate?

Thanks.


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Worked for me for 33 years! The rock will carry it.

also, best to keep wood away from what appears to be combustible construction.


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## BOBTHEFIXER (Oct 28, 2013)

If you cant cut to the centre of the stud to the right, cut a track and install pieces horizontally, like doors headers, between the corner stud and the stud to the right, and that will be your backing,


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## jecky (Apr 24, 2017)

Just to clarify, I'm cutting along the green line below correct?











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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

jecky said:


> Just to clarify, I'm cutting along the green line below correct?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, and then back with a 3 5/8" stud on the flat.


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## jecky (Apr 24, 2017)

The existing stud track is 1 5/8" wide. The short side of a 3 5/8 stud is 1 1/4". Will that create too much play while I'm screwing up the wall board to the new stud? 


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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

jecky said:


> The existing stud track is 1 5/8" wide. The short side of a 3 5/8 stud is 1 1/4". Will that create too much play while I'm screwing up the wall board to the new stud?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


As i said, the rock will carry it. The 3 5/8" on the flat has a greater surface area to tie to the rock.

You could order it as 362S162-33 x 10' or in english 3 5/8" 20 ga 1 5/8" flange 10' stud.


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## jecky (Apr 24, 2017)

I'll stick with the 1 1/4" Flange.

So I have a copper pipe running through where my new stud is going. I could cut the pipe and repair with a repair coupling or I could notch the stud. Leaning toward notching.











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## MrWillys (Mar 10, 2014)

Notch the stud flanges but don't allow them to make contact because of indifferent metals.

A sawzall or small battery circular saw would have made a straighter cut. The finisher will whine to high heaven. You better go buy a towel now.


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## jecky (Apr 24, 2017)

Haha...

I can take a 1/2 inch off with a sawzall and get it straight. I just didn't want to make all that dust. 


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## flooringguy (Mar 18, 2020)

jecky said:


> Customers demo guy ripped out a wall for plumbing and wants me to fix it. Seeking some advise from drywall guys.
> 
> This is my idea. Seem about right?
> 
> ...


This is a good plan


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