# mesh and calk



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

has anyone tried mesh on the flats and run a bead of calk and wipe tight ....then mud over that....? let me know your thoughts good or bad


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I see what your gettin at. the problem would be in dry time. caulking takes longer to dry then joint compound. Never done it myself but have seen large reoccuring cracks in plaster repaired with caulk. caulk first to fill crack then mesh then durabond. It worked pretty good. Though it was kinda a slow process


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

boco said:


> I see what your gettin at. the problem would be in dry time. caulking takes longer to dry then joint compound. Never done it myself but have seen large reoccuring cracks in plaster repaired with caulk. caulk first to fill crack then mesh then durabond. It worked pretty good. Though it was kinda a slow process


thanks ....want about a Quick Grip Construction Adhesive?


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

Sherwin Williams has Lightning caulk that dries and paintable in 30 mins. I wouldnt use it in place of mudd.. Thats what 5 min mudd is for. 
But the quick dry caulk is awsome for what its ment for..


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

Yeah I've used mold resistant quick dry stuff in our bathroom for something, ****s a pain to clean.

I'm not convinced caulk under mud adds to crack resistance. Done if a few times in problem area's at bosses request, but if movement is going to happen under the mud how would the caulk absorb it and not pass through to the topping, especially with mesh. Boggles my mind :yes:


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

If you think you are going to have a cracking problem I say your best move is to prefill the whole seam while you are pre filling your V cut butt joints. Then tape with whatever your using. 
I believe they still make the drywall that you must prefil before taping. Its an extra step but reduces cracking a lot.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Magic said:


> If you think you are going to have a cracking problem I say your best move is to prefill the whole seam while you are pre filling your V cut butt joints. Then tape with whatever your using.
> I believe they still make the drywall that you must prefil before taping. Its an extra step but reduces cracking a lot.


thanks for your input. I don't think I will ever try it:thumbsup:


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

When I was coming up, worked for a guy who had us mesh all the flats and then do a tight prefill with AP. We'd then coat with easy sand 90 and skim with Midweight. Worked pretty well.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

drywallninja said:


> When I was coming up, worked for a guy who had us mesh all the flats and then do a tight prefill with AP. We'd then coat with easy sand 90 and skim with Midweight. Worked pretty well.


How what huh? On the brite side. If you ever run out of work you know where you can find jobs that are cracked and need fixings! Lol


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Magic said:


> How what huh? On the brite side. If you ever run out of work you know where you can find jobs that are cracked and need fixings! Lol


before fiberfuse I would mesh all seams and corners and tape coat with durabond and 2nd coat with ez sand in my box...I think it was faster then the way I do in now....


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

Magic said:


> How what huh? On the brite side. If you ever run out of work you know where you can find jobs that are cracked and need fixings! Lol


I'm not saying I would do things that way now, but no sh*t, I was back home visiting a buddy who I used to work with, and he remodeled his home bout 13 years ago and used that method I mentioned earlier. Place still looks good. Nothing out of the ordinary, couple screws showing and a cracked butt above a door. Go figure!


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

icerock drywall said:


> before fiberfuse I would mesh all seams and corners and tape coat with durabond and 2nd coat with ez sand in my box...I think it was faster then the way I do in now....


When I was living up in Ohio, we used easy sand on the first coat of everything but the angles. Never put it through the tools, but if you're set up with a hose and some place to clean things out, why not.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

drywallninja said:


> When I was living up in Ohio, we used easy sand on the first coat of everything but the angles. Never put it through the tools, but if you're set up with a hose and some place to clean things out, why not.


I always have a hose....http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/how-ice-pumps-his-mud-4893/


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Hey Ice, why does Ice talk about Ice in the third person?:jester:


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## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

Magic said:


> How what huh? On the brite side. If you ever run out of work you know where you can find jobs that are cracked and need fixings! Lol


Been taping a long time now and for the last 20 years using scrim (mesh) on the flats, and cracking has never been a problem.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

forestbhoy said:


> Been taping a long time now and for the last 20 years using scrim (mesh) on the flats, and cracking has never been a problem.


I hear ya, man. Do you guys pull a tight coat over it before a proper 1st coat?


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## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

drywallninja said:


> I hear ya, man. Do you guys pull a tight coat over it before a proper 1st coat?


Coat scrim with filler and then 10 and 12" with jointing compound. The filler coat is not tight but flushes the tapered edges.


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## drywallninja (Apr 28, 2013)

forestbhoy said:


> Coat scrim with filler and then 10 and 12" with jointing compound. The filler coat is not tight but flushes the tapered edges.


Gotcha. Yea, we used to basically spot the seam like a screw with all purpose and a 6" knife. Sounds about the same.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Personally, I stay away from hot mud unless I absolutely need to use it. But that's just me.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Personally, I stay away from hot mud unless I absolutely need to use it. But that's just me.


Yeah I am the same unless I know it is under my topping good


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## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Yeah I am the same unless I know it is under my topping good


Sorry joe i dont understand that reply. Whats topping good?


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

mld said:


> Hey Ice, why does Ice talk about Ice in the third person?:jester:


don't worry about it


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

We always double tape (two layers) when taping with mesh tape. A single layer will crack at the joint. Embed the tape with smooth set or some quick setting compound. Usually just on repairs or small jobs. Anything bigger and we use paper tape.


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## Magic (Feb 20, 2014)

forestbhoy said:


> Been taping a long time now and for the last 20 years using scrim (mesh) on the flats, and cracking has never been a problem.


Im not scared to use mesh. I prefil any bad spots then mesh and coat with durabond. Im saying if he used taping mudd to prefil and bed his mesh there will be some cracking issues. At least if I ever tried it every place with mesh wiuld surely crack!


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## forestbhoy (Jun 16, 2013)

Magic said:


> Im not scared to use mesh. I prefil any bad spots then mesh and coat with durabond. Im saying if he used taping mudd to prefil and bed his mesh there will be some cracking issues. At least if I ever tried it every place with mesh wiuld surely crack!


Your right...I read it wrong I think...:thumbsup:


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