# Roto zips and routers.



## gazman

This is a serious question not a smart ar$e one.
Roto zips and the like have only over here for about a year, I have zero experience with them and have always used a knife & saw. What are the advantages? Bearing in mind our board is only 3/8".


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> This is a serious question not a smart ar$e one.
> Roto zips and the like have only over here for about a year, I have zero experience with them and have always used a knife & saw. What are the advantages? Bearing in mind our board is only 3/8".


Your sh1ttin us right

Can you cut out a electrical box in 5 seconds, or a door way or window with the 1/4" bit in 10 seconds. No rocker would board without one. When a tapers radio breaks down, work stops till he gets a new one. Same with the router when it comes to the rockers:thumbsup:

Let the thread fill:yes:


----------



## gazman

No I am not having you on. 
Over here electricians cut out there own power points, we punch a hole for them, most dont even do that. They are not alowed to cut them out until we have sanded. As you know those holes are a pain in the but when you are boxing & machine sanding. 
Any sparky that turns up before we are finished is KINDLY asked to leave.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> No I am not having you on.
> Over here electricians cut out there own power points, we punch a hole for them, most dont even do that. They are not alowed to cut them out until we have sanded. As you know those holes are a pain in the but when you are boxing & machine sanding.
> Any sparky that turns up before we are finished is KINDLY asked to leave.


Well frickin lucky you 

No Rotowhatthehells here, All by hand, BEFORE i show up, With wires hanging from the walls, ceilings, and downlight holes cut.

Makes the beads and ceiling tapes fun........not

Dont you dare tell me they leave the doors off for you as well :furious:


----------



## gazman

Doors. What doors? No door jambs or arcs either. And if the fixout material turns up when we are on site. THEY ARE POLIGHTLY ASKED TO LEAVE AND IF NEEDED GIVEN DIRECTIONS WHERE THEY CAN PUT IT.


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Doors. What doors? No door jambs or arcs either. And if the fixout material turns up when we are on site. THEY ARE POLIGHTLY ASKED TO LEAVE AND IF NEEDED GIVEN DIRECTIONS WHERE THEY CAN PUT IT.


Arhhhh F, IT , Jambs on Doors on Arcs on, Trippin over trims etc, Kitchens showing up, Tiliers want to start, Sheds a storage area, Thats just how it is........pox, If i ask for it any other way its WTF, WHY, What are you on, Your not the only one trying to make a living, Who do you think you are kinda attuide, The better you adjust to everyone the better everyone gets along, The more co operatave you are the more your liked so the more work you get and welcome you are, My last job the tilers started and the garage doors got fitted half way through, I complained and got told to just work around it.....its just how it is  2buck would love it :yes:


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> This is a serious question not a smart ar$e one.
> Roto zips and the like have only over here for about a year, I have zero experience with them and have always used a knife & saw. What are the advantages? Bearing in mind our board is only 3/8".


SPEED.:yes:


----------



## gazman

cazna said:


> Arhhhh F, IT , Jambs on Doors on Arcs on, Trippin over trims etc, Kitchens showing up, Tiliers want to start, Sheds a storage area, Thats just how it is........pox, If i ask for it any other way its WTF, WHY, What are you on, Your not the only one trying to make a living, Who do you think you are kinda attuide, The better you adjust to everyone the better everyone gets along, The more co operatave you are the more your liked so the more work you get and welcome you are, My last job the tilers started and the garage doors got fitted half way through, I complained and got told to just work around it.....its just how it is  2buck would love it :yes:


Hey Cazna.
Why not what most Kiwis do come to Australia. Come on we will make a killing.


----------



## Drywall_King

rotozips are a way of life in north america, i have two cordless rouders a small bit and a large bit we call them the small one and the big one.. small one for cutting sheets (in certain situations) and electrical boxs. the big one cuts doors, windows and can trim the end of beads when drywall hangs over just that little bit. I worked with a guy in OZ and showed him how to cut out windows perfect and to fit everytime with him just throwing sheets on the wall... when you have a rouder even a iddiott can mesure one number and cut it then throw it on a wall then all you gotta do its put two screws in to hold the sheet rouder and you have a perfect window cut everytime... the only thing with using a rouder is that you must only rotate the rouder in one direction to avoid over burns in your cut... very good tool that aussies dont use... also when making a hole for a wire in the Gyprock manual it says that a hammer hole is not a addiquate tool to make a hole so i use a circle cutter and eather a hole saw or a "small" rouder to cut out a perfect circle everytime...


----------



## gazman

moore said:


> SPEED.:yes:


Is it that much quicker? 
Is it harder to cut straight?
What about the dust?
All serious questions I have never used one.


----------



## Drywall_King

a lot more quicker yes a little more dust but when your cutter guy mesures one number thats it and continuesly throws them on the wall less mind fatigue from all the numbers.. and you never get a wrong cut, and your cut is allways a clean cut, not saying the best boarders (fixers) cant cut a window fast it's just a smoother process that allways cuts to the framing...


----------



## chris

gazman said:


> No I am not having you on.
> Over here electricians cut out there own power points, we punch a hole for them, most dont even do that. They are not alowed to cut them out until we have sanded. As you know those holes are a pain in the but when you are boxing & machine sanding.
> Any sparky that turns up before we are finished is KINDLY asked to leave.


:blink:that is awesome,do u know how much time we would save with no cutouts...im jealous


----------



## chris

most time saved would be on elec. boxes,can lightswindows,and especially arches. Doors could all be backcut as well as long boards going past frmg.Very useful once you get the hang of it:thumbsup:


----------



## Mudshark

gazman said:


> Is it that much quicker?
> Is it harder to cut straight?
> What about the dust?
> All serious questions I have never used one.


I think you could do well marketing these tools in Australia. They are simply a LOT faster. Dust? well yes that is a problem but with practice you can learn to stay "downwind". They take a bit of practice at first as they are fast and it can wander where you dont want it cut. Again practice makes perfect. When mastered they make a "perfect" cut.


----------



## Mudshark

BOB SCHMIDT can explain it better!


----------



## Muddy Perfection

I haven't seen a hole saw used for a long time in the states. I think the only people using those are the hammer and nail guys:whistling2::lol::lol: all our guys love them, but as mentioned before they can wander until you master them.:thumbup:


----------



## cazna

gazman said:


> Hey Cazna.
> Why not what most Kiwis do come to Australia. Come on we will make a killing.


I Know, Your austrailian conditions are world class, Im a thru and thru Kiwi and i love my country and were i live, Ive still got quite good and i like a bit of varitey, I do drywall, painting, spray painting, wallpaper etc to make up my work, I think i would get bored just doing one thing, Your town looks very much like NZ, All your rivers are mud though, ours are mostly clear same as our lakes.

I dont hang the board so i dont need a roto, and they would be no good when the house is revels, Groove in the side of the door frame for the board to slot into, Dumbest idea in the world :yes: Only takes a fews hrs one man to cut out a house of flushboxes but every house has a couple to fix thats overcut.


----------



## joepro0000

dont forget routers are great for installing F.R.P.


----------



## Mudshark

joepro0000 said:


> dont forget routers are great for installing F.R.P.


WTF is F.R.P?


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> Is it that much quicker?
> Is it harder to cut straight?
> What about the dust?
> All serious questions I have never used one.


Never cared for em at first,, fuzzy boxes ,ravels around windows and doors
THE DUST:yes:,,But then I helped the hangers that used them on a few houses
It's fast. half the time than pre cut. Every hanger [in this nation] uses them.
I never used one,,sub out the hanging. what little hanging i do ,,I do old school. 

On sand day . I take large sanding pad,, and clean up the boxes ,,gets the fuzz off ,,I take a razor knife ,and lightly trim the ravel from around windows /doors. A good router man will keep a fresh bit handy . A bad router man will F UP your world . cut wires/missed boxes/never use one to cut around a shower tub :blink:duh,,, 

As far as the dust,, Hell.. the d/c makes more mess than any sub on the site . hanging/muddin/sanding/texture,, whats a little more gonna hurt.

I TRY to keep mud off the floor ,and always clean up EVERYTHING the day I'm done. I will say the router dust is 80 percent of that clean up.:thumbsup:


----------



## joepro0000

Mudshark said:


> WTF is F.R.P?


Its those white panels they install in commerical restrooms, kitchen areas, etc.


----------



## chris

Fiberglass reinforced panel FRP I think. Kitchens and bathrooms commercial. You need a router fr frp.Have you ever used a nibbler?


----------



## SlimPickins

moore said:


> Never cared for em at first,, fuzzy boxes ,ravels around windows and doors
> THE DUST:yes:,,But then I helped the hangers that used them on a few houses
> It's fast. half the time than pre cut. Every hanger [in this nation] uses them.
> I never used one,,sub out the hanging. what little hanging i do ,,I do old school.
> 
> On sand day . I take large sanding pad,, and clean up the boxes ,,gets the fuzz off ,,I take a razor knife ,and lightly trim the ravel from around windows /doors. A good router man will keep a fresh bit handy . A bad router man will F UP your world . cut wires/missed boxes/never use one to cut around a shower tub :blink:duh,,,
> 
> As far as the dust,, Hell.. the d/c makes more mess than any sub on the site . hanging/muddin/sanding/texture,, whats a little more gonna hurt.
> 
> I TRY to keep mud off the floor ,and always clean up EVERYTHING the day I'm done. I will say the router dust is 80 percent of that clean up.:thumbsup:


I can't imagine hanging anything with more than 2 boxes/outlets/whatevers without a router. If you're cleaning up router dust you should yell at your hangers. I sweep window sills, use an angle broom to pull dust away from the wall and then sweep it all up with a nice fine push broom. I think sanding produces more dust than routering though.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> Fiberglass reinforced panel FRP I think. Kitchens and bathrooms commercial. You need a router fr frp.Have you ever used a nibbler?


I'll bite, what's a nibbler


----------



## chris

Like power snips they are like scissors with power. They do remove a small 1/8". Nice for frp long rippin and straight cuts


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> Arhhhh F, IT , Jambs on Doors on Arcs on, Trippin over trims etc, Kitchens showing up, Tiliers want to start, Sheds a storage area, Thats just how it is........pox, If i ask for it any other way its WTF, WHY, What are you on, Your not the only one trying to make a living, Who do you think you are kinda attuide, The better you adjust to everyone the better everyone gets along, The more co operatave you are the more your liked so the more work you get and welcome you are, My last job the tilers started and the garage doors got fitted half way through, I complained and got told to just work around it.....its just how it is  2buck would love it


I know, life is hard over here too







, every job we go to, the water must be working, there must be a live receptacle working in the kitchen so we can mix, the house has to be scraped out and the floors swept. Some scrap drywall must be left behind so we can mix on it to keep the floor clean, there has to be a porta potty (johnny on the spot). There has to be heaters or fans supplied. Our scaffold must be set up, or get paid by the hour if we half to set it up. No other trades are allowed in the house while we work or we walk. No garage doors unless we request for them (that winter thing). If the drywall work sucks we can demand for the rocker to come back and fix it, if not we back charge,,,,,, all our materials are supplied and loaded at the jobsite,, when were done a house we get on the phone and ask where the next one is. When the painter paints there's a touch up guy who goes back to fix things (not us).......

Finally,,,,,something that trumps your paradise world where you live........except there's no sheep


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> I know, life is hard over here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , every job we go to, the water must be working, there must be a live receptacle working in the kitchen so we can mix, the house has to be scraped out and the floors swept. Some scrap drywall must be left behind so we can mix on it to keep the floor clean, there has to be a porta potty (johnny on the spot). There has to be heaters or fans supplied. Our scaffold must be set up, or get paid by the hour if we half to set it up. No other trades are allowed in the house while we work or we walk. No garage doors unless we request for them (that winter thing). If the drywall work sucks we can demand for the rocker to come back and fix it, if not we back charge,,,,,, all our materials are supplied and loaded at the jobsite,, when were done a house we get on the phone and ask where the next one is. When the painter paints there's a touch up guy who goes back to fix things (not us).......
> 
> Finally,,,,,something that trumps your paradise world where you live........except there's no sheep


No Sheep?? Well thats sucks, I was eyeing up a few hundred today and thinking you would be keen for a go, Hey it nearly snowed today, On the mountian tops they got a slight dusting, Thats about as far as it goes where i am, Some other parts of the country gets a lot, I would prob be an hr drive inland to snow this time of year,

Im not complaining about how it is here if it sounds like i am, It would be nice to have it the way some of you do but i have work at low preasure so im not rushed, and it pays so at the end of the day you cant ask for much more. :yes:


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> I know, life is hard over here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , every job we go to, the water must be working, there must be a live receptacle working in the kitchen so we can mix, the house has to be scraped out and the floors swept. Some scrap drywall must be left behind so we can mix on it to keep the floor clean, there has to be a porta potty (johnny on the spot). There has to be heaters or fans supplied. Our scaffold must be set up, or get paid by the hour if we half to set it up. No other trades are allowed in the house while we work or we walk. No garage doors unless we request for them (that winter thing). If the drywall work sucks we can demand for the rocker to come back and fix it, if not we back charge,,,,,, all our materials are supplied and loaded at the jobsite,, when were done a house we get on the phone and ask where the next one is. When the painter paints there's a touch up guy who goes back to fix things (not us).......
> 
> Finally,,,,,something that trumps your paradise world where you live........except there's no sheep


So would you like a hooker ,,and a steak dinner with that Mr Kelly?
It all makes perfect sense[common sense] ,,,, your spoiled man.
Out of that list,, all I get Is no one in my way. Because the g/cs know how pissy I get about not having the house to myself . 
,and my hangers do scrap out ,and sweep up 1/2 of the router dust.


----------



## mudslingr

moore said:


> So would you like a hooker ,,and a steak dinner with that Mr Kelly?
> It all makes perfect sense[common sense] ,,,, your spoiled man.
> Out of that list,, all I get Is no one in my way. Because the g/cs know how pissy I get about not having the house to myself .
> ,and my hangers do scrap out ,and sweep up 1/2 of the router dust.


 Nah. we're not spoiled. It's actually the only kind of respect tapers get around here. If mud wasn't dropped off on the site you could see alot of guys not showing up to work because they can't afford mud. At least you have no excuse in that regard.
Port a johns - well with 1,000 guys on a site or even just 100 or so you gotta have them.
The d/c needs a separate touch up guy because most tapers will never end up going back to fix their work. Usually the hackers. And the touch up guy can weed out the bad ones.
If boarders start to slack off on their hanging we have every right to bitch about it. They won't pay more for us to deal with it so they tell the boarders to get their butts back in and fix it or lose some $$$ on your pay.
And the fact that some sites are so busy that sometimes some not so good tapers are hired just to get things rolling along. I was a touch up guy for 3 years. Great money but my eyes bled from all the crap I saw.
Basically they just try to keep us happy here because most d/c's know how much they stress us out.


----------



## gazman

moore said:


> So would you like a hooker ,,and a steak dinner with that Mr Kelly?
> 
> Now it all makes sense He is related to NED. If you dont understand google Ned Kelly Australia.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

With a router, if your cutting the outside (like an electrical box) you go counter clockwise. If your cutting the inside(like a door opening) you go clockwise. The bit will "track" the opening. If you try to go the other way, the bit will wander and you'll be like "what the hell?"

Is it faster???? Is driveing a truck to work faster than a horse and buggy??
Is a jet faster than a car??? etc etc


----------



## gazman

Can the router bit be used to cut out doors etc on a steel frame?
Will the steel bugger up the bit?


----------



## smisner50s

gazman said:


> Can the router bit be used to cut out doors etc on a steel frame?
> Will the steel bugger up the bit?


You can use them...guidpoint bits


----------



## SlimPickins

gazman said:


> Can the router bit be used to cut out doors etc on a steel frame?
> Will the steel bugger up the bit?


If you're talking about just openings in steel stud framing, then yes you can use them. The good bits have a guide point (a round section that doesn't do any cutting)...they get dull faster on steel but that's the only downside. 

If you're a hanger, you need a router........period, end of debate. Someone said it was twice as fast, that's Bullsh*t, it's at least 5 times as fast. At LEAST....


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> You can use them...guidpoint bits


You beat me to it Foo! (said in Mr T. voice)


----------



## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> You beat me to it Foo! (said in Mr T. voice)


I petty the foo who messes with ME


----------



## SlimPickins

smisner50s said:


> I petty the foo who messes with ME


I saw a Mr T. talking keychain recently, it had six different phrases on it, and on the package it said "It's my real voice Fool!" That thing was AWESOME.


----------



## smisner50s

SlimPickins said:


> I saw a Mr T. talking keychain recently, it had six different phrases on it, and on the package it said "It's my real voice Fool!" That thing was AWESOME.


I wear a chain like him


----------



## joepro0000

chris said:


> Like power snips they are like scissors with power. They do remove a small 1/8". Nice for frp long rippin and straight cuts


Shear scissors. Yep I used them before, don't own one, but eventually will buy one. We cut our frp with tin snips and router for pipes and outlets!


----------



## SlimPickins

joepro0000 said:


> Shear scissors. Yep I used them before, don't own one, but eventually will buy one. We cut our frp with tin snips and router for pipes and outlets!


Nippers also work really well for cutting hardie board.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> So would you like a hooker ,,and a steak dinner with that Mr Kelly?
> It all makes perfect sense[common sense] ,,,, your spoiled man.
> Out of that list,, all I get Is no one in my way. Because the g/cs know how pissy I get about not having the house to myself .
> ,and my hangers do scrap out ,and sweep up 1/2 of the router dust.


Don't worry Rick Moore, there's one thing you probably get better than us, and that is money

And my daughter has the same 1st name as you, she spells it Ricki, I was wondering if you spell your name this way, Prick, just tell everyone the "P" is silent:whistling2:



mudslingr said:


> Nah. we're not spoiled. It's actually the only kind of respect tapers get around here. If mud wasn't dropped off on the site you could see alot of guys not showing up to work because they can't afford mud. At least you have no excuse in that regard.
> Port a johns - well with 1,000 guys on a site or even just 100 or so you gotta have them.
> The d/c needs a separate touch up guy because most tapers will never end up going back to fix their work. Usually the hackers. And the touch up guy can weed out the bad ones.
> If boarders start to slack off on their hanging we have every right to bitch about it. They won't pay more for us to deal with it so they tell the boarders to get their butts back in and fix it or lose some $$$ on your pay.
> And the fact that some sites are so busy that sometimes some not so good tapers are hired just to get things rolling along. I was a touch up guy for 3 years. Great money but my eyes bled from all the crap I saw.
> Basically they just try to keep us happy here because most d/c's know how much they stress us out.


Touch ups for 3 years

Dear god my hat goes off to you, I can't stand that job, It's soooooooooo boring, it pays well but....... Plus there's too much dealing with those cry baby painters, are your eyes still seeing spots.

Plus you and me know why everything is universally the same through out Ontario, London was the last hold out


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> Can the router bit be used to cut out doors etc on a steel frame?
> Will the steel bugger up the bit?


I can see why you guys don't have them, they were mainly used to cut out the electrical boxes. And your sparkies install the boxes after the rock is up so.... Someone told me it was the french Canadians that thought of it, or it was them that brought it to our area. Guys use to strip down black and decker routers and stick a drill bit in them, some even would use a 3 1/2 " framing spike/nail. It worked (tried it) the rpm's were so high on those B&D routers. Then someone started to make the bit for the router, it has a reverse thread on them. Then of coarse someone figured out to use a big bit on the windows and doors, they were faster and would break less. Then came actual drywall routers that could handle the dust better and blow/direct the dust away from you.There's a history lesson Gazman and here's a link on the bits http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Routers

Sometimes guys are over kill with the router, They get lazy and start walking across a room to get the router, when they could of pulled out their saw and cut something in 2 seconds. Most of the time it should be used when a sheep is attached to the wall. There are occasions when it's use is beneficial before a sheet is installed, like lots of pipes for example:yes:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

BTW Porta-Cable makes a mid-size bit, bigger than the box bit but smaller than the window bit that can be used on boxes and doors&windows.

Never heaar many folks talk about em, but I like em.


----------



## evolve991

cazna said:


> Arhhhh F, IT , Jambs on Doors on Arcs on, Trippin over trims etc, Kitchens showing up, Tiliers want to start, Sheds a storage area, Thats just how it is........pox, If i ask for it any other way its WTF, WHY, What are you on, Your not the only one trying to make a living, Who do you think you are kinda attuide, The better you adjust to everyone the better everyone gets along, The more co operatave you are the more your liked so the more work you get and welcome you are, My last job the tilers started and the garage doors got fitted half way through, I complained and got told to just work around it.....its just how it is  2buck would love it :yes:


Sounds like a prime work environment if you're getting top dollar and they don't care how much you get done or have a definite finish date....otherwise PACK'EM UP

PS: Routers are irreplaceable from simple receptacles to taking the bottom off an already tacked sheet to clear a hump in the floor to custom drawing an abstract anomaly onto a 2 dimensional surface with a pencil that has a cutting surface:blink: Arc windows,standard windows,overlapped bevel joints( I oughtta slap ya),sprinkler heads,recessed lights,doorways,connecting scored cuts on a sheet,out of square bulkhead edges....no way to list it all...Before RotoZip(and screw guns) I absolutely loathed drywall and quit to run jackhammer for a living


----------



## gazman

Well I got a router. And I love it. THANKS MEN:thumbup:.


----------



## Toddr

I use the Roto Zip brand name.Like it much better than the dewalt.5/32 xbits.Good for boxes and is still a hog for doorways and windows..I have even zipped durock with them.:thumbsup:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER

Mudshark said:


> WTF is F.R.P?


 fiberglass reinforced panels. used in commercial kitchens bathrooms and any place water is an issue. laminated over drywall or plywood with adhesive applied with a 1'8" notch trowel. usually 4x8 sheets but can be ordered longer. vinyl parting, inside and outside corners, and L beads take care of edges. sometimed rivited with vinyl rivits. it has a bumpy surface.


----------



## gazman

The router I ended up getting is a corded makita. I was at a trade show recently and had the opportunity to speak with the Makita rep. I asked if Makita do a 1/4" bit for the router, (so far I have been getting my bits from the US as I cant find any in AU) and it turns out that Makita have discontinued the tool in Australia due to poor sales. This highlights to me that a realy good idea and tool for that mater need to be marketed properly or it will fail. Having said that there are a lot of useless tools that sold very well due to good marketing. 
The upshot of this was I went to my local supplier and he tracked down a router at another store for me. Now I have a spare. It is a shame that the US only runs on 110v and we run on 240V. I have thought about a cordless but all of my stuff is Makita and the only cordless ones that I have seen are Dewalt and I cant be stuffed getting batteries and a charger for another brand.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

gazman said:


> The router I ended up getting is a corded makita. I was at a trade show recently and had the opportunity to speak with the Makita rep. I asked if Makita do a 1/4" bit for the router, (so far I have been getting my bits from the US as I cant find any in AU) and it turns out that Makita have discontinued the tool in Australia due to poor sales. This highlights to me that a realy good idea and tool for that mater need to be marketed properly or it will fail. Having said that there are a lot of useless tools that sold very well due to good marketing.
> The upshot of this was I went to my local supplier and he tracked down a router at another store for me. Now I have a spare. It is a shame that the US only runs on 110v and we run on 240V. I have thought about a cordless but all of my stuff is Makita and the only cordless ones that I have seen are Dewalt and I cant be stuffed getting batteries and a charger for another brand.


 Makita does make a cordless,,, I have had one for about 5 years,,, and its bout worn out,,,, its a good tool


----------



## gazman

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Makita does make a cordless,,, I have had one for about 5 years,,, and its bout worn out,,,, its a good tool



You wouldnt have a link or a model number Captain? 

And as was said on another thread your knowledge is invaluable. You are the MAN.:thumbsup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

gazman said:


> You wouldnt have a link or a model number Captain?
> 
> And as was said on another thread your knowledge is invaluable. You are the MAN.:thumbsup:


 Naw,,,I'm just the man that knows the man,,,,lol

I'll see if I can find that for ya tomarrow,,,like mentioned on a previous thread,,,it's my b-day,,,and I'm near bout ripped!!!!!!:yes:


----------



## gazman

Thanks. 
Be sure to say hi to the man when you see him next.:yes:


----------



## mudslingr

Capt-sheetrock said:


> it's my b-day,,,and I'm near bout ripped!!!!!!:yes:


Happy birthday Capt !arty:


----------



## Zendik

I remember when routers first came out.
Dude showed up with this big fat old router and our foreman looked at him like he was nuts.

This was a highrise hotel job and every floor was typical so you could hand cut the outlets and such pretty quickly and being that dude's router was clumsy he just kept up with everyone comfortably. 

Years went by as a framer watching the rockers get covered with router dust from head to toe then I got tossed on the rock pile and got to taste the dust.

Now I cut everything with a router. You can't be quicker and ceilings are much faster. Topping out where you have 15 or more penetrations in a 4' butt a router is a must.


----------



## Amish Electrician

Just a little history, for the general entertainment.

About 35 tears back, a Wisconsin rocker decided to 'tweek' a router for drywall work. He started witha 'trim,' or laminate router, the sort of thing used by the countertop guys to trim Formica. He stripped it down, making the base quite small. He moved the switch. He replaced the usual handle with a strap that went over the back of your hand. 

Perhaps most important, he had some bits made that had a smooth section at the tip, a 'pilot,' so to speak.

His (patented) product caught on. From a 'made in my garage' product to a contract with Sears. All was happy.

Sears asked him if he could alos make an add-on router base. He did, and showed them a prototype. Sears politely declined - then had a Chinese factory come up with a comparable accessory. He sued.

Bosch bought the firm, but let the guy keep the lawsuit. Eventually, he prevailed. Sears stole his idea, violated his agreement with them, and got to pay dearly. He made far more from the lawsuit than he made by selling the firm.

I've had great service from them, and there's no beating a rotozip for production work.


----------



## gazman

This is for you Plugger. I had never heard of using a router to cut board until I found this site. Now if someone took my router it would be like my left arm was missing. This is a steel frame, and they hold the windows in with a L shaped bracket so when I slow down and pull the router out a bit that is what is going on.


http://youtu.be/DViSEr4OzS0


----------



## super rocker

I have been using a router for 41 years. You bought a standard manageable router and bought router bits at your drywall yard and went to work. I still use a standard Black & Decker instead of those awful Roto-Zips. Sad that they have become the "standard" for hanging drywall.


----------



## gazman

I would really love an 18v Makita router, but I dont think that they make one. How do you blokes think that this would go? It spins at 25000 rpm, my corded Makita does 33000rpm. So do you think that it would be up to the task?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-L...0821584?pt=AU_Power_Tools&hash=item564391e250


----------



## plugger

I reckon they could be the go for us Gaz! not a huge fan of leads everywhere.. But i like the vid! Normally we cut the height of the sheet on the back the saw up both sides. Snap out..

Certinly will look into one when i get more hanging coming up!


----------



## gordie

hey Gaz and plugger those cordless makita roughters work good better than the dewalt cordless. Like you i didn't know they made one but i just started working for an outfit and the boss brought out his own crew to board some units he had one. It worked good but it is really long like as long as your for arm.


----------



## gazman

gordie said:


> hey Gaz and plugger those cordless makita roughters work good better than the dewalt cordless. Like you i didn't know they made one but i just started working for an outfit and the boss brought out his own crew to board some units he had one. It worked good but it is really long like as long as your for arm.


That cordless one is not actually a router, it is a die grinder. I don't know how it will handle the dust, and if it spins fast enough.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> That cordless one is not actually a router, it is a die grinder. I don't know how it will handle the dust, and if it spins fast enough.


I use to have the dewalt cordless router. They do spin slower, but their more accurate. Newbs loved it alot more, it's like you could feel what you were cutting, and had more control. Well the corded router was more meant for the Master drywaller, you were after the speed.

So...... I used the cordless router to cut out electrical boxes (which you mates don't have), and kept a 1/4" bit in the corded router to cut out any windows, doors etc......:yes:


----------



## Mudshark

Not overly impressed with the DeWalt cordless (but like the corded one) Are the Makita cordless even longer than the DeWalt cordless?:blink:


----------



## harvv

I actually use a Senco cordless router i got for 10 bucks....its pretty nice.


----------



## moore

If you figure the time wasted fighting those GD drop cords then a slow spin router may be faster

When a cord gets a coil then hangs up on a corner bead:furious::furious::furious:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Mudshark said:


> Not overly impressed with the DeWalt cordless (but like the corded one) Are the Makita cordless even longer than the DeWalt cordless?:blink:


Notice I said "use to have":whistling2:

I bought one when they 1st came out ( a long with 2 , 12 volt screw guns) I was doing all the drywall in a large nursing home , that had a lot of topping out to do. Think I went through 3 or 4 of them in 8 months. Dewalt kept replacing them with their warranty, but the last time they said that was it, I was too hard on them

Still have one of the cord less screw guns, but it is on it's last legs, stops running if you hold it side ways:blink:

Not that I drywall much anymore, but I do need another router, for my needs I will just get a cordless one, but not dewalt. I will wait for you guys to proclaim the best one to buy


----------



## saskataper

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2460-20
I'd be curious to see how this one worked, looks like it would be ideal for little jobs. I've already got the drill, impact, and multitool and they are great.


----------



## gazman

I should have one of these by next week. so I will let you blokes know how it goes.


----------



## keke

gazman said:


> I should have one of these by next week. so I will let you blokes know how it goes.


Cool Gazman , put me on the list I wanna know more about this and whether I can use it as a router :thumbsup:


----------



## gordie

Mudshark said:


> Not overly impressed with the DeWalt cordless (but like the corded one) Are the Makita cordless even longer than the DeWalt cordless?:blink:


Yes they are longer than the dewalt but they have more power works pretty good for a cordless still nothing beats the corded dewalt :yes:


----------



## Deezal

Where do I get one guys! I already use makita cordless screw gun and the cordless grinder . This would definitely help make the money I shelled out on the batteries an charger more worth it and I'd like to put dewalt far behind me. They make a nice corded router also for those who didn't know, nice and small to grip just like there cordless gun.









Can't find a pic of the corded router, will look more later.


----------



## gazman

Is this the corded router that you were looking for? Model # 3706.


----------



## gazman

I cant figure out why most blokes on here still use single shot screw guns. These are available in Canada and the US.

http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=tool&id=632&catid=2


----------



## gazman

Deezal said:


> Where do I get one guys! I already use makita cordless screw gun and the cordless grinder . This would definitely help make the money I shelled out on the batteries an charger more worth it and I'd like to put dewalt far behind me. They make a nice corded router also for those who didn't know, nice and small to grip just like there cordless gun.
> 
> View attachment 7506
> 
> 
> Can't find a pic of the corded router, will look more later.



It looks like in Canada you only have the long version of the die grinder available.

http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=toollist&categoryid=2&subcategoryid=9&subsubcategoryid=59


----------



## keke

gazman said:


> I cant figure out why most blokes on here still use single shot screw guns. These are available in Canada and the US.
> 
> http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=tool&id=632&catid=2


That is a question gazman Why?


----------



## Deezal

gazman said:


> I cant figure out why most blokes on here still use single shot screw guns. These are available in Canada and the US.
> 
> http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=tool&id=632&catid=2


Nobody supplies screws because they are to expensive, I wouldn't let my guys use the extensions for them as I said in checkers thread and I can finger screws almost just as fast anyways. So basically I don't like them personally so I wouldn't be useing and then I'd be into buying yet another kind of screw etc. just doesn't make sense to me. Don't get me wrong they are great in the right hands and most people save alot of time just like I said no one supplies and they are uncommon so screws aren readily available through suppliers we use etc all factors combined and yeah I just leave them alone


----------



## Toontowntaper

Like Deezal said screws are hard to find unlike te common drywall screws. You can pick them up anywhere almost which makes it better. What if you run out and you only have couple sheet left and your supplier is closed for the day. You go back to the more common one to finish up anyways. 

I could see how doing the ceilings it would be handy just screw and go no loading of single screws. But tight areas maybe not so good


----------



## moore

gazman said:


> Is this the corded router that you were looking for? Model # 3706.


 clean the mud off that stool Mate!!!


----------



## Deezal

gazman said:


> Is this the corded router that you were looking for? Model # 3706.


You got er.


----------



## gazman

Next time it rains I will leave it outside just for you


----------



## keke

Toontowntaper said:


> I could see how doing the ceilings it would be handy just screw and go no loading of single screws. But tight areas maybe not so good


the model from above is bfr 550 long head but we can get bfr 450 short head - both models work great in tight area and yes they are very handy even for walls not just for ceilings 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-18V-LXT-BFR450RFEX-Auto-Feed-Screw-Gun-Kit-/230808101488


----------



## gazman

keke said:


> the model from above is bfr 550 long head but we can get bfr 450 short head - both models work great in tight area and yes they are very handy even for walls not just for ceilings
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-18V-LXT-BFR450RFEX-Auto-Feed-Screw-Gun-Kit-/230808101488


They don't get the 450 over there Keke, missing out big time.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

gazman said:


> I cant figure out why most blokes on here still use single shot screw guns. These are available in Canada and the US.


Deezal and tooney should of reminded you, for every 1,000 screws you put in, we put in 10,000, since you guys don't screw off the fields. Plus like they said, most times the subs half to supply the screws. But what they don't explain to you is, they don't want to cut into their beer supply. That's why a lot of them will also use nails if they can, or they purchase fine threaded screws instead of that box of coarse threaded screws that might cost 15 bucks more,,,, gotta have that beer money:whistling2:


----------



## Deezal

2buckcanuck said:


> Deezal and tooney should of reminded you, for every 1,000 screws you put in, we put in 10,000, since you guys don't screw off the fields. Plus like they said, most times the subs half to supply the screws. But what they don't explain to you is, they don't want to cut into their beer supply. That's why a lot of them will also use nails if they can, or they purchase fine threaded screws instead of that box of coarse threaded screws that might cost 15 bucks more,,,, gotta have that beer money:whistling2:


For once I would say you are wrong, I glue everything so little amount of fields being screwed on my jobs. Haven't had to supply screws in 5 years either so my money all goes to beer lol jk the companies that supply are the ones not buying and in turn we don't use despite my opinion of auto loaders I know alot of guys that would use them and even own them but don't use for that simple reason alone. Guessing they don't buy just because o the fact they aren't common I'm sure of people spoke up they would though despite the cost......well some anyways.


----------



## Deezal

Just to clarify I obviously purchase screws for my own bid and awarded jobs. I mean when I sub out in between jobs.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Deezal said:


> For once I would say you are wrong, I glue everything so little amount of fields being screwed on my jobs. Haven't had to supply screws in 5 years either so my money all goes to beer lol jk the companies that supply are the ones not buying and in turn we don't use despite my opinion of auto loaders I know alot of guys that would use them and even own them but don't use for that simple reason alone. Guessing they don't buy just because o the fact they aren't common I'm sure of people spoke up they would though despite the cost......well some anyways.


What do you mean I'm wrong









Sometimes I think rockers are worse than tapers when it comes to being stubborn.

I work for a large DWC, every time I bump into one of our drywall crews, I will ask them why they don't try any of the new automatic screw guns. The first thing they will say is the screws cost too much , the next amazing thing they will say is their just as fast as one:blink:.

When I started in this trade, the router was a new thing. Some of the old timers I had to work around back then, were pissed if you pulled one out. They considered it a dusty little toy, that could chop the wires off in the box. Even some builders didn't want them used b/c of the wire damage they could do. We use to buy Black and decker routers, strip them down, and sometimes used a spike/nail as the router bit. But now you never see a rocker with out a router. 

So don't be stubborn, you know you want a automatic screw gun, be a trend setter:thumbup:


----------



## Deezal

Haha good thought but just because that line of thinking applies to some things doesn't mean it applies to others, those things have been out ever since I've been in the trade and have not been gaining speed at all. Just as uncommon now as then and now they are way more available than back then. P.s. ill make a video of slamming some screws in tomorrow and post, I'm sure I'm nothin special but you'll see what I mean by not much faster.


----------



## keke

don't worry 2buck you are 100% right 
and Deezal please check Gazman's video on his youtube channel for screws in the field and glue


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Deezal said:


> Haha good thought but just because that line of thinking applies to some things doesn't mean it applies to others, those things have been out ever since I've been in the trade and have not been gaining speed at all. Just as uncommon now as then and now they are way more available than back then. P.s. ill make a video of slamming some screws in tomorrow and post, I'm sure I'm nothin special but you'll see what I mean by not much faster.


Sounds GOOD:thumbup:

But make sure you can screw off faster than Moose boy, you would want us picking on you, about Moose boy being faster than you:whistling2:


----------



## Toontowntaper

Imnot going to say I'm faster then the auto drills. If I was to be a rocker full time I would get one for sure the time it saves would be worth the extra money in the long run. 
I was saying that the screws aren't as common so I suppose you could stock up and have lots. 

Kinda like when I decided to buy 1200+ sticks of mudset bead. To bad someone stole my outside mud applicator that Joe gave me so now I use the hopper or hand. So pissed


----------



## plugger

Got me nacked why you would single screw your ceilings.. And also why You's screw off the centres of every sheet.. Probly explained somewhere on here but why do You's screw off centres of every sheet? (Fields) My mind boggles..


----------



## Toontowntaper

plugger said:


> Got me nacked why you would single screw your ceilings.. And also why You's screw off the centres of every sheet.. Probly explained somewhere on here but why do You's screw off centres of every sheet? (Fields) My mind boggles..


I would say to help secure the sheet to the wall if you only tack the sheet then it's not as strong as screwing off the field..... I also believe there is something in the code book requiring 2/3 screws In the field


----------



## 2buckcanuck

plugger said:


> Got me nacked why you would single screw your ceilings.. And also why You's screw off the centres of every sheet.. Probly explained somewhere on here but why do You's screw off centres of every sheet? (Fields) My mind boggles..


Can't explain Moose boys screw pattern (if that's one thing your talking about)......

As for why we use screws in the fields in Canada. The Majority of our walls and ceilings have poly/plastic on them(weather thing). So guessing only 30 to 40 % of our walls could get glued. Also, since we don't use too much glue, it cost more compared to screws...... so I was told a few months ago from the DWC I work for:whistling2:


----------



## Deezal

Not sure what you mean by single screw ceilings but I wonder why guys do this too we always glue everything we possibly can, way easier for taper, less work for boarders, less money in screws and most important IMO less chance of screw pops. May be a reason in other parts of Canada or U.S. why they won't let you use glue, I can make sense of wanting more screws in earthquake or extremes weather zones off the top of my head. But in my "neck of the woods" glue is green light and I still see guys screwing everything off. Worked for a few companies that had it in there head that glue was too expensive and hassle to use with carrying around an extra product and tool etc so they don't supply it also most definitely has a bad habit of ruining perfectly good t-shirts too if you're not careful. This is one scenario however where I will settle for a 6 pack and suck up the cost outta my own pocket. That


----------



## Deezal

2buckcanuck said:


> Can't explain Moose boys screw pattern (if that's one thing your talking about)......
> 
> As for why we use screws in the fields in Canada. The Majority of our walls and ceilings have poly/plastic on them(weather thing). So guessing only 30 to 40 % of our walls could get glued. Also, since we don't use too much glue, it cost more compared to screws...... so I was told a few months ago from the DWC I work for:whistling2:


30-40 sounds about right in most cases. nobody lets you glue fire walls either so in apartments that's a huge chunk too. Big old shack 12000ft2 plus and maybe 60-70 percent by the time your all said and done though especially a 3 story. Just think only 1/3 of the lid is poly and in every room there is 1 exterior wall to every 3 interior walls excluding corners but not taking into consideration hallways and other rooms not touching exterior.


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> What do you mean I'm wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes I think rockers are worse than tapers when it comes to being stubborn.
> 
> I work for a large DWC, every time I bump into one of our drywall crews, I will ask them why they don't try any of the new automatic screw guns. The first thing they will say is the screws cost too much , the next amazing thing they will say is their just as fast as one:blink:.
> 
> When I started in this trade, the router was a new thing. Some of the old timers I had to work around back then, were pissed if you pulled one out. They considered it a dusty little toy, that could chop the wires off in the box. Even some builders didn't want them used b/c of the wire damage they could do. We use to buy Black and decker routers, strip them down, and sometimes used a spike/nail as the router bit. But now you never see a rocker with out a router.
> 
> So don't be stubborn, you know you want a automatic screw gun, be a trend setter:thumbup:


 A Spike/nail!!! As A bit!! What did the fuzz look like around dem boxes ?


----------



## saskataper

Toontowntaper said:


> Like Deezal said screws are hard to find unlike te common drywall screws. You can pick them up anywhere almost which makes it better. What if you run out and you only have couple sheet left and your supplier is closed for the day. You go back to the more common one to finish up anyways.
> 
> I could see how doing the ceilings it would be handy just screw and go no loading of single screws. But tight areas maybe not so good


I found the collated screws easy enough, prime fasteners sells PAM drywall screws that I use in my Hilti, the are about triple the price but i find its worth it


----------



## plugger

Deezal said:


> Not sure what you mean by single screw ceilings but I wonder why guys do this too we always glue everything we possibly can, way easier for taper, less work for boarders, less money in screws and most important IMO less chance of screw pops. May be a reason in other parts of Canada or U.S. why they won't let you use glue, I can make sense of wanting more screws in earthquake or extremes weather zones off the top of my head. But in my "neck of the woods" glue is green light and I still see guys screwing everything off. Worked for a few companies that had it in there head that glue was too expensive and hassle to use with carrying around an extra product and tool etc so they don't supply it also most definitely has a bad habit of ruining perfectly good t-shirts too if you're not careful. This is one scenario however where I will settle for a 6 pack and suck up the cost outta my own pocket. That


On your ceilings instead of using a collated gun, you's use your drill and put in screws one by one.. :blink:

Aint nobody got time for that!



Toontowntaper said:


> I would say to help secure the sheet to the wall if you only tack the sheet then it's not as strong as screwing off the field..... I also believe there is something in the code book requiring 2/3 screws In the field


Glue!! Why go to the trouble of screwing off the fields on every sheet to only come back and cover em twice, and sand them?
Tack sheets back where needed until glue sets, no 1st coat, 2nd coat, no Top coating 40 screws on a single wall.. Surely time saved not coating and sanding would make up for the cost of glue?


Also as mentioned just above.. We cant glue FireCheck either. That and tiled areas is the only spot we are going to be screwing off the 'fields' as you guys put it. Thank god..its a bloody pain in the ass!


----------



## Kiwiman

moore said:


> *What did the fuzz look like around dem boxes ?*


:laughing:


----------



## harvv

Deezal said:


> Haha good thought but just because that line of thinking applies to some things doesn't mean it applies to others, those things have been out ever since I've been in the trade and have not been gaining speed at all. Just as uncommon now as then and now they are way more available than back then. P.s. ill make a video of slamming some screws in tomorrow and post, I'm sure I'm nothin special but you'll see what I mean by not much faster.



Will like to see this video. 

I consider myself pretty fast at rolling screws in my hand but just thinking about it i dont see how i could compete with a collated. They come 50 screws to a strip(i definitely cant keep 50 screws in my hand and reasonably roll them...and ive got some pretty big hands) Not to mention having to grab out of your pouch so much. Also all the damn metal shavings that start to get on your bit and in your screws when you get down to the bottom. 

Btw i have never run a collated gun...just thinking out loud.

I guess i could see it being a waste of money for you if you use glue everywhere and dont screw off everything in the field...ive never seen anyone use glue around here though.


----------



## Deezal

Never claimed to be as fast just said pretty close. Might not be a couple days before I post, waiting for joes package to arrive so I can give a little something back in advertising. Topping out today anyways so not really a good measure also. I've been thinking about it too and with help from pt's video and the Aussies I'm gonna pick one up just for cielings, obviously going to be way faster off the hop.


----------



## harvv

Deezal said:


> Never claimed to be as fast just said pretty close. Might not be a couple days before I post, waiting for joes package to arrive so I can give a little something back in advertising. Topping out today anyways so not really a good measure also. I've been thinking about it too and with help from pt's video and the Aussies I'm gonna pick one up just for cielings, obviously going to be way faster off the hop.



Those were my thoughts as well. Even if you only used the more expensive screws for ceilings it would be well worth it in my opinion.


----------



## gazman

Often on here blokes talk about game changers, well collated screws guns are just that. We made the change in the 90s and haven't looked back.:thumbsup:


----------



## Deezal

Anyone know if that same attachment for gaz's


----------



## Deezal

Stupid phone, anyone know if that attachment for gaz's gun would fit on the one I posted a pic of on this thread or if not if try make one?


----------



## moore

Deezal said:


> Stupid phone, anyone know if that attachment for gaz's gun would fit on the one I posted a pic of on this thread or if not if try make one?


 Wha? No vid? :whistling2: CHICKEN CHIT!!!


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Deezal said:


> Never claimed to be as fast just said pretty close. Might not be a couple days before I post, waiting for joes package to arrive so I can give a little something back in advertising. Topping out today anyways so not really a good measure also. I've been thinking about it too and with help from pt's video and the Aussies I'm gonna pick one up just for cielings, obviously going to be way faster off the hop.










Sure, credit PT and the Aussies for making up your mind in buying a auto screw gun, and not me prodding you

I hope your some what fast at the screw gun, the Aussies seem to think the Auto screw gun is a game changer, well I don't think it is.

The auto gun would smoke a guy bad on the ceilings, but on the walls not as much. Where I am, the rockers nail off the perimeters, then at the end, they will go back and screw off the fields. Some of them buggers are really fast. It's like they compete with themselves, and get their game up, every second or two a screw is entering the sheet( or maybe I'm remembering my younger days:whistling2

The auto screw gun would also be good for a guy tacking up sheets by himself also, but 50 screws in a strip/clip, is not too much for screwing off on walls. If you were firing 3 screws in the field, that would net you two 12 footers, three 12 footers if 2 screws, then you half to reload. I think most rockers can hold enough screws in one hand to screw off one complete sheet before they dip for more screws.

I will shut up for now, until I see how fast deezal is, or I might half to come out of drywall retirement...... waiting on your vid deezal


----------



## moore

Can you say JAM! While your standing there pulling on a piece of plastic ..I'm running ahead of ya with a single feed driver.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

moore said:


> Can you say JAM! While your standing there pulling on a piece of plastic ..I'm running ahead of ya with a single feed driver.


Lets see the Aussies beat this guy:thumbsup:

He's a bit slower than me in my younger days:whistling2:, but this vid will half to do


----------



## harvv

2buckcanuck said:


> ( or maybe I'm remembering my younger days:whistling2


:laughing:



2buckcanuck said:


> The auto screw gun would also be good for a guy tacking up sheets by himself also, but 50 screws in a strip/clip, is not too much for screwing off on walls. If you were firing 3 screws in the field, that would net you two 12 footers, three 12 footers if 2 screws, then you half to reload. I think most rockers can hold enough screws in one hand to screw off one complete sheet before they dip for more screws.


I dunno if you are counting boards that have been nailed perimeters with your calculations but im counting about 50 screws per sheet if 3 in mid...40 if there are 2 in mid. (those counts are with zero nails whatsoever, i dont nail anything) I will have to see tomorrow if i can hold 40 or 50 in my hand and roll em easily, or in your case with nailed perimeters i guess 20 screws which seems easy.


Still take a look at some youtube vids of the smd 50 or watch checkers how fast he can reload that 50 screw clip.

I personally would like to see checkers show how fast he screws off walls with that thing. 

And still want to see deezals 

Either way my opinion is they look amazing for lids even if thats the only thing you use them for.:thumbupas well as tacking up sheets when hanging solo)


----------



## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> Lets see the Aussies beat this guy:thumbsup:
> 
> He's a bit slower than me in my younger days:whistling2:, but this vid will half to do
> 
> Mas Rapido Drywall Gun - YouTube


If I had to follow him I would shove that thing right up his arse inch:, punching the wall that hard crush's the board around the screw.


----------



## moore

2buckcanuck said:


> Lets see the Aussies beat this guy:thumbsup:
> 
> He's a bit slower than me in my younger days:whistling2:, but this vid will half to do
> 
> Mas Rapido Drywall Gun - YouTube


 

eh!!!! I would have to take a look at the dimples and blisters first! by the vid I'd say he's worth Mexican wage :whistling2:


----------



## moore

Kiwiman said:


> If I had to follow him I would shove that thing right up his arse inch:, punching the wall that hard crush's the board around the screw.


 yes Sir ! :yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

harvv said:


> Either way my opinion is they look amazing for lids even if thats the only thing you use them for.:thumbupas well as tacking up sheets when hanging solo)


I agree with your last statement, if I was still drywalling I would get a auto gun. They would be really awesome on the lids and tacking. Just think anyone half decent on a standard screw gun is never going to toss it out, and consider the auto gun to be a game changer:thumbup:

Also, not saying to hold 50 screws in hands, think that would be too much. What would be the average amount a guy grabs when he goes into his apron, 15, 20, 25 ????????

Now I'm going to have all the rockers counting their screws tomorrow


----------



## harvv

2buckcanuck said:


> I agree with your last statement, if I was still drywalling I would get a auto gun. They would be really awesome on the lids and tacking. Just think anyone half decent on a standard screw gun is never going to toss it out, and consider the auto gun to be a game changer:thumbup:
> 
> Also, not saying to hold 50 screws in hands, think that would be too much. What would be the average amount a guy grabs when he goes into his apron, 15, 20, 25 ????????
> 
> Now I'm going to have all the rockers counting their screws tomorrow



Agreed. And im gonna be counting too hahah


----------



## keke

2buckcanuck said:


> Lets see the Aussies beat this guy:thumbsup:
> 
> He's a bit slower than me in my younger days:whistling2:, but this vid will half to do
> 
> Mas Rapido Drywall Gun - YouTube


maybe he's good for a single shoot(I can't compare because I don't use) but I want to see him screwing in 2 layers of firecheck(16mm thick),impactcheck(with mesh inside) on hardwood frame (with 40 or 50mm screw) or around walls :whistling2:
but I am sure I can do this


----------



## gazman

Deezal said:


> Stupid phone, anyone know if that attachment for gaz's gun would fit on the one I posted a pic of on this thread or if not if try make one?



Hey Deezal, if you mean this screw gun, the answer is no. The handle of the collated gun is shaped far different to this one, so it will not allow the extension handle to bolt on.


----------



## gazman

Ok, how about a challenge. What I suggest is that we see who can drive in 100 screws the quickest. Get a scrap piece of board attach it to a piece of timber, then fire off 100 screws. Dont worry about where the screws land, just as long as they are all driven in (No clickers) . All competitors to start with guns and hands empty. All screws or collated strips to be in your nail pouch. 100 screws IMO is a good place to start as it represents two loads of the collated gun, and is the slowest part of the process. 

Gentlemen, start your engines.


----------



## keke

:boxing:I am in and ready:boxing:


----------



## gazman

Lock load and fire Keke. :thumbsup:


----------



## moore

This Is gonna be good!:yes:


----------



## gordie

I havn't had time to reply to this one these days which is a good thing makin money but my body hurts and i finally get a day off.

My only prob with collated screws is my D.C's won't pay for them.I'm a Hilti guy and the attachment comes on and off with ease so you can still put in single screws in tight places if needed just pop off the attachment and your long bit is there for you.

As far as being available Hilti reps are pretty aggressive if you want there screws they will bring them. They need to put there kids through college so they won't become dumbwallers

So because we get reg grabber screws paid for and you have to buy collated if you want them the only guys with the collated are usually rookies or Idiots.Any one good with a gun just won't buy in.

That being said Ive met guys I couldn't beet no matter what gun you gave me "screw you Gregson" the guy was 56 years old and you just couldn't match his speed cutting,measuring,and especially screwing off the sound of his gun would stress you right out :furious: 

So you can't completely replace time spent.But Keke you nailed it when you said lets see you do double layer,or heavy gauge steal or something like that the collated have a guide that keeps your screws from going in not true you don't have to pull half hits just misses and if your not reloading you won't miss as much ether that seems to get me i reach in my bag and load miss from taking my eyes off the wall.


----------



## moore

keke said:


> :boxing:I am in and ready:boxing:





gazman said:


> Lock load and fire Keke. :thumbsup:


 
Stand back mates!!! IT'S ON!!!:yes:


----------



## moore

I was just watching Mike Holmes

They were cutting some board in a hallway with this attached to a shop-vac.. 



 




 I thought It was pretty kool..


----------



## Mr.Brightstar

moore said:


> I was just watching Mike Holmes
> 
> They were cutting some board in a hallway with this attached to a shop-vac.. Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-RZVAC1-Dust-Extraction-Adapter/dp/B0009H5FAO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1367108784&sr=8-7&keywords=rotozip+accessories
> 
> Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-DM5-Dust-Management-Kit/dp/B003BIFMII/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1367109117&sr=8-9&keywords=rotozip+accessories I thought It was pretty kool..


No way I was just watching same thing, they were making book shelfs in a condo. I think the electrian looks kinda like 2 buck.


----------



## gazman

My die grinder turned up today, as you may have noticed form the previous pics being a die grinder not a router it does not have a nose cone. So I have made a temporary one from a bit of pvc pipe. So I will give it a go tomorrow and report back. I gave it a run on a bit of scrap board I had at home and it cut well. So we will see how it goes tomorrow in the real world. As a answer to a question that was posed about the length. It is 280mm from back of battery to nose. That is about a foot.


----------



## harvv

gazman said:


> My die grinder turned up today.


Looks cool man. But curious about putting the nosecone on. Around here we just take off the depth guide as soon as we get the router. Do a lot of people use those depth guides when routing?


----------



## gazman

Interesting, never tried one without the depth adjuster. May have to give it a go.


----------



## Mountain Man

harvv said:


> Looks cool man. But curious about putting the nosecone on. Around here we just take off the depth guide as soon as we get the router. Do a lot of people use those depth guides when routing?


Same here! As soon as they come out of the box the depth guides are gone and in the garbage!! Use the force!!


----------



## chris

gazman said:


> Interesting, never tried one without the depth adjuster. May have to give it a go.


 You know, I dont believe Ive ever used or seen anyone use a router with it on:blink: Give it a go and im sure you will leave it off:thumbsup:


----------



## gordie

gazman have to agree with everyone on this take that guide off when you run the roughter just run it with a bit of an angle ,the point of the bit running along the surface and the tool away pointing toward the surface . like if you were trying to put a 45 angle on the rought then your bit won't catch:thumbsup:.


----------



## harvv

gazman said:


> Interesting, never tried one without the depth adjuster. May have to give it a go.


Give it a shot man  Think you will probably like it better.


----------



## SlimPickins

gazman said:


> Interesting, never tried one without the depth adjuster. May have to give it a go.


Just remember to _pretend _that you have a depth guide on:yes: The less bit you have in the wall, the better the tool will run (and if running cordless, the longer battery life you'll have). It feels like blasphemy to throw away part of the tool when you buy it, but I'm with everyone else.....the guide goes right in the garbage. I have an old one somewhere in case I absolutely need one, but I never have.


----------



## saskataper

moore said:


> I was just watching Mike Holmes
> 
> They were cutting some board in a hallway with this attached to a shop-vac.. Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-RZVAC1-Dust-Extraction-Adapter/dp/B0009H5FAO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1367108784&sr=8-7&keywords=rotozip+accessories
> 
> Video Link: http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-DM5-Dust-Management-Kit/dp/B003BIFMII/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1367109117&sr=8-9&keywords=rotozip+accessories I thought It was pretty kool..


I've got one of those, bought it on clearance at the HD. Package said "fits all rotozips" or something along those lines, doesn't fit the drywall router.


----------



## gazman

keke said:


> :boxing:I am in and ready:boxing:


Keke. Where is your video mate?


----------



## keke

gazman said:


> Keke. Where is your video mate?


You already proved it mate. If somebody can do 100 single shoots under 46 sec I'll jump in to help you :thumbsup:


----------



## Deezal

Hey gaz, have you had a chance to try that doe grinder out yet, really interested on your feedback, as of right now it's definately high on the list


----------



## gazman

Deezal said:


> Hey gaz, have you had a chance to try that doe grinder out yet, really interested on your feedback, as of right now it's definately high on the list



Yes I have had a chance to give it a go, at this stage the jury is still out. This is the first battery one that I have tried, and compared to my corded one is was a little disappointing. A mate has a battery dewalt which I will have a chance to try Thursday. After Thursday I will report back that way I will be comparing apples with apples.


----------



## SlimPickins

gazman said:


> Yes I have had a chance to give it a go, at this stage the jury is still out. This is the first battery one that I have tried, and compared to my corded one is was a little disappointing. A mate has a battery dewalt which I will have a chance to try Thursday. After Thursday I will report back that way I will be comparing apples with apples.


I just took a look at one of the die grinders on Makita's website. I can see how this tool might not work out all that well. The longer nose on it seems like it would create an awkward dynamic, and place your hands too far away from the bit making cuts more difficult to control. All drywall routers (that I've seen up to this point) are short and stubby, keeping your hands close to the bit and to the wall for maximum control. 

That being said, I'm totally curious to hear more about it.


----------



## Deezal

I just looked too, seems to me you can get a couple fingers on that black part just below the bit for stabilization, almost 16" is pretty long for a router all though there corded drywall one is long an skinny compared to others. That dewalt one is not a good comparison. I was buying one every year for awhile, they kept screwing up just after the warranty was up so that was awesome, ill never buy one again, I use the rotozip cordless currently and found it to be far superior. All cordless routers seem to have troubles with 5/8 board especially the dewalt, the rotozip handles much better and doesn't get as bogged down by the thicker board but it still requires you to slow down a bit as you don't want to try to drag it through as it just burns them out real quick. all cordless routers like grinders have a very small work time with them really not good for windows or doors (most guys I know use a 1/4 bit o. That stuff anyways. I always use mine for cutting things out of tops ie pipes and cut outs to studs to fit around them etc, nice thing about the rotozip is it has a battery check button, find myself usein it all the time, nothing worse than getting in the lift and flipping the switch and it goes dead lol back down again. Anyway all I'm saying is there is a substantial loss of power and work time and you really have to pick your battles with them as they just aren't the same.....yet


----------



## gordie

Deezal said:


> I just looked too, seems to me you can get a couple fingers on that black part just below the bit for stabilization, almost 16" is pretty long for a router all though there corded drywall one is long an skinny compared to others. That dewalt one is not a good comparison. I was buying one every year for awhile, they kept screwing up just after the warranty was up so that was awesome, ill never buy one again, I use the rotozip cordless currently and found it to be far superior. All cordless routers seem to have troubles with 5/8 board especially the dewalt, the rotozip handles much better and doesn't get as bogged down by the thicker board but it still requires you to slow down a bit as you don't want to try to drag it through as it just burns them out real quick. all cordless routers like grinders have a very small work time with them really not good for windows or doors (most guys I know use a 1/4 bit o. That stuff anyways. I always use mine for cutting things out of tops ie pipes and cut outs to studs to fit around them etc, nice thing about the rotozip is it has a battery check button, find myself usein it all the time, nothing worse than getting in the lift and flipping the switch and it goes dead lol back down again. Anyway all I'm saying is there is a substantial loss of power and work time and you really have to pick your battles with them as they just aren't the same.....yet



Hey Deazle your not kidding with the choose your battles with that roto zip cordless. They don't make them any more and i agree they are the best cordless last one i seen was a few months ago it died on my good buddy he was sad for sure.


----------



## Deezal

Seriously hope that die grander works out, with rotozip outta production ill r be back to corded I think. Definitely hoping that rotozip comes out with something new because dewalt cordless doesn't exist to me anymore the last one I had took a fall from a 3ft bench and was dead after.... Enough said.


----------



## gazman

View attachment 7659


Deezal said:


> I just looked too, seems to me you can get a couple fingers on that black part just below the bit for stabilization, almost 16" is pretty long for a router all though there corded drywall one is long an skinny compared to others. That dewalt one is not a good comparison. I was buying one every year for awhile, they kept screwing up just after the warranty was up so that was awesome, ill never buy one again, I use the rotozip cordless currently and found it to be far superior. All cordless routers seem to have troubles with 5/8 board especially the dewalt, the rotozip handles much better and doesn't get as bogged down by the thicker board but it still requires you to slow down a bit as you don't want to try to drag it through as it just burns them out real quick. all cordless routers like grinders have a very small work time with them really not good for windows or doors (most guys I know use a 1/4 bit o. That stuff anyways. I always use mine for cutting things out of tops ie pipes and cut outs to studs to fit around them etc, nice thing about the rotozip is it has a battery check button, find myself usein it all the time, nothing worse than getting in the lift and flipping the switch and it goes dead lol back down again. Anyway all I'm saying is there is a substantial loss of power and work time and you really have to pick your battles with them as they just aren't the same.....yet


The one that I got is not 16 inches long, it is just under 12. It looks like the one I got is not available in the USA or Canada. Here is the difference.


----------



## SlimPickins

gazman said:


> View attachment 7659
> 
> 
> The one that I got is not 16 inches long, it is just under 12. It looks like the one I got is not available in the USA or Canada. Here is the difference.


Yep, yours looks much better. Once again, I am inspired to think that Australia is just plain better than the US.


----------



## gordie

SlimPickins said:


> Yep, yours looks much better. Once again, I am inspired to think that Australia is just plain better than the US.



No kiddin I've got my wife convinced now i just need Gaz,Keke,Canza,or plugger to give me a job:thumbup:


----------



## SlimPickins

gordie said:


> No kiddin I've got my wife convinced now i just need Gaz,Keke,Canza,or plugger to give me a job


I'll fight you for it!:boxing::2guns::gun_bandana::tank::brows:


----------



## moore

gordie said:


> No kiddin I've got my wife convinced now i just need Gaz,Keke,Canza,or plugger to give me a job:thumbup:


Stop by here on your way Gordie:thumbsup: Hang a few boards for me..:yes:


----------



## gazman

gazman said:


> Yes I have had a chance to give it a go, at this stage the jury is still out. This is the first battery one that I have tried, and compared to my corded one is was a little disappointing. A mate has a battery dewalt which I will have a chance to try Thursday. After Thursday I will report back that way I will be comparing apples with apples.



Well I lined the Makita Die grinder up against the Dewalt router today. They both are equal as to the how quickly they eat the rock, but that is where the similarity ends. The Makita is slightly heavier (better built IMO). The Makita is Smooooth, where as the Dewalt sounds like it will rattle it self apart. ( The Dwalt is only a week old) The trigger on the Makita is easier to use than the Dewalt. The only down side I have found with the Makita is because it is a die grinder it does not have a spindle lock, meaning you have to use two spanners to change the bit. I have come to the realization that using the cordless is different to the corded router and you cant just push it hard. Both machines used identical bits, 1/4 Roto Zip bits. All in all I give the die grinder a thumbs up.

Corded Makita 10/10

Cordless Makita Die grinder 9/10

Dewalt cordless router 6.5/10


Cheers Gaz.


----------



## gazman

And I forgot to mention,the makita is about half an inch shorter than the dewalt.


----------



## SlimPickins

gazman said:


> Well I lined the Makita Die grinder up against the Dewalt router today. They both are equal as to the how quickly they eat the rock, but that is where the similarity ends. The Makita is slightly heavier (better built IMO). The Makita is Smooooth, where as the Dewalt sounds like it will rattle it self apart. ( The Dwalt is only a week old) The trigger on the Makita is easier to use than the Dewalt. The only down side I have found with the Makita is because it is a die grinder it does not have a spindle lock, meaning you have to use two spanners to change the bit. I have come to the realization that using the cordless is different to the corded router and you cant just push it hard. Both machines used identical bits, 1/4 Roto Zip bits. All in all I give the die grinder a thumbs up.
> 
> Corded Makita 10/10
> 
> Cordless Makita Die grinder 9/10
> 
> Dewalt cordless router 6.5/10
> 
> 
> Cheers Gaz.


Way to go mate....tell us how good it is. You forgot to remind us that we can't get it over here:whistling2:

(Seriously though, thanks for the review)


----------



## harvv

Haha slim i was thinking the exact same thing after i read it.


----------



## mud bud

FRP fiber reinforced plastic
for straight and other free hand cuts with a router make a score line with a knife or circle cutter and follow the score line with the router. Makes it much easier and helps prevent the router from wandreing
It took 7 years for Roto zip to fully catch on in North America
Wonder if my drywall cutter will take that long www.wallboardersbuddy.com


----------



## Makitaboy

You Ozzies have a short makita die grinder?
Ive been holding out on getting rid of my ol' dewalt one (not really old, got it for christmas....) cause i didnt like the long nose


----------



## Makitaboy

gazman said:


> Well I lined the Makita Die grinder up against the Dewalt router today. They both are equal as to the how quickly they eat the rock, but that is where the similarity ends. The Makita is slightly heavier (better built IMO). The Makita is Smooooth, where as the Dewalt sounds like it will rattle it self apart. ( The Dwalt is only a week old) The trigger on the Makita is easier to use than the Dewalt. The only down side I have found with the Makita is because it is a die grinder it does not have a spindle lock, meaning you have to use two spanners to change the bit. I have come to the realization that using the cordless is different to the corded router and you cant just push it hard. Both machines used identical bits, 1/4 Roto Zip bits. All in all I give the die grinder a thumbs up.
> 
> Corded Makita 10/10
> 
> Cordless Makita Die grinder 9/10
> 
> Dewalt cordless router 6.5/10
> 
> 
> Cheers Gaz.


Gaz, you can make it work with 1/8 inch bits too, 

Makita 192987-1
^thats the part number for other collet


----------



## gazman

Makitaboy said:


> Gaz, you can make it work with 1/8 inch bits too,
> 
> Makita 192987-1
> ^thats the part number for other collet


Thanks for that, but I already have the collet to reduce it down to 1/8th.

Here is a link to the short nose die grinder on Aussie Ebay. If you want one I can help you out. PM me if you need any help.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-L...0821584?pt=AU_Power_Tools&hash=item564391e250


----------



## sdrdrywall

mud bud said:


> FRP fiber reinforced plastic
> for straight and other free hand cuts with a router make a score line with a knife or circle cutter and follow the score line with the router. Makes it much easier and helps prevent the router from wandreing
> It took 7 years for Roto zip to fully catch on in North America
> Wonder if my drywall cutter will take that long www.wallboardersbuddy.com


Not to piss in your cheerios but I don't see that ever becoming a must have item for professional drywall guys.


----------



## Makitaboy

I love the idea of this, but the execution is poor. I guess the "knife" part is kinda sloppy after a while. Kinda wish the rock ripper had the 8,10 and 12 marks on it.


----------



## mud bud

Rock ripper cannot cut down to the floor because of the size of the T-square.
What makes you think the knife gets sloppy? Mine has not had that problem after three years of use.
Not to worried about all the pros getting on board but when you have a house or apartment full of window returns it is a time saver that provides superior quality cuts
DIY is the main focus, beginners find it useful and carpenters like me use it all the time when installing fire stops.
I had someone who never cut drywall in his life cut me perfect 2 + 1/4 inch door liners the other day after strapping a wall out.
Close to 2,000 happy customers now.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

mud bud said:


> Rock ripper cannot cut down to the floor because of the size of the T-square.
> What makes you think the knife gets sloppy? Mine has not had that problem after three years of use.
> Not to worried about all the pros getting on board but when you have a house or apartment full of window returns it is a time saver that provides superior quality cuts
> DIY is the main focus, beginners find it useful and carpenters like me use it all the time when installing fire stops.
> I had someone who never cut drywall in his life cut me perfect 2 + 1/4 inch door liners the other day after strapping a wall out.
> Close to 2,000 happy customers now.


Your right, this is a site for pro's, not DIY's:yes:

The router was a game changer for the professional drywaller, your product will never be. Take it to a DIY site:whistling2:


----------



## Makitaboy

mud bud said:


> Rock ripper cannot cut down to the floor because of the size of the T-square.
> What makes you think the knife gets sloppy? Mine has not had that problem after three years of use.
> Not to worried about all the pros getting on board but when you have a house or apartment full of window returns it is a time saver that provides superior quality cuts
> DIY is the main focus, beginners find it useful and carpenters like me use it all the time when installing fire stops.
> I had someone who never cut drywall in his life cut me perfect 2 + 1/4 inch door liners the other day after strapping a wall out.
> Close to 2,000 happy customers now.


Well, i read 2 reviews, one said it was great (wall tools) and the other (all wall) was bad.

To be hounest, I really do like the idea. And your right, the rock ripper doesnt cut all the way down if the sheets are on the wall. In canada, the rock ripper is 46 dollars, and even though I live 15 mins from the US, home depot doesnt sell it in store(retarded really, canada only sells in store for double the price..., us is cheaper, but you have to order it on-line. So I have neither. So I take it you have input on this tool, if you sold so many? I would like to see a beefed up version. Drywallers aren't easy on their tools, hahaha. 
Maybe if it was all metal, and you could adjust the knife part in case its out of whack, I would pay double the current price for it. 
Like you say, I feel this tool would be awesome, especially for me, because I make alot of 2' cuts in tight spaces, and often hang by myself. I would be a real time saver for those that dont butt board


----------



## moore

mud bud said:


> rock ripper cannot cut down to the floor because of the size of the t-square.
> What makes you think the knife gets sloppy? Mine has not had that problem after three years of use.
> Not to worried about all the pros getting on board but when you have a house or apartment full of window returns it is a time saver that provides superior quality cuts
> diy is the main focus, beginners find it useful and carpenters like me use it all the time when installing fire stops.
> I had someone who never cut drywall in his life cut me perfect 2 + 1/4 inch door liners the other day after strapping a wall out.
> Close to 2,000 happy customers now.


2 + 3/8....2 + 1/2 Small.


----------



## evolve991

I wasn't aware Rotozip quit making cordless I figured HomoDepot and Lowfs just didn't stock'em. We've had a RZ for 1/8th inch and Dewalt for 1/4 for a few years now,both corded....guess now I'll have to try something else for cordless when I get one


----------



## plugger

Started the hang on a new job this morning, as im watching the windows and doors get cut out with the ol' trusty ripsaw, I'm thinking to myself damn one of those roto things would be pretty handy! 

So Gazman, that makita thingo that I asked if it would do the trick, how is it? And what attachments do I need for it? I'm getting on the bandwagon!


----------



## gazman

This is what you need.


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Makita-L...0821584?pt=AU_Power_Tools&hash=item564391e250


----------



## gazman

And these tips.

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Routers/Drywall-Window-Bit.html


----------



## plugger

And it also appeared to me today aswell while I was glueing up the occasional wall. 
I'm getting the glue in the sausages. Told one of the boys about em, he seen the advantages too! 

I'm just kicking myself I didn't grab some yesterday while I was looking at em!


----------



## gazman

Some blokes are slow learners, but get there in the long run.


----------



## thefinisher

Its a good thing that yall haven't caught on with the routers.... Otherwise you would be way out in front of us! I love how simple and easy your jobs look over there :yes:


----------



## Galaman

The difference is here ;


----------



## plugger

Just found a Aus. Version router knocking about on eBay. Had been re-listed once, sat another couple of days but couldn't resist knowing Makita arnt making them anymore for us Aussies.


----------



## keke

I bought 1 Plugger I have just good words for it don't miss it :thumbsup:


----------



## SlimPickins

Galaman said:


> The difference is here ;


Slow down bro.


----------



## GypRocknRoll73

Don't forget to buy guidepoint bits.


----------



## nodnarb

moore said:


> 2 + 3/8....2 + 1/2 Small.


Dont knock it till you try it. I dont own one _yet_ but the super let me use one on a recent job with TONS of garcy studs. Had to cut 100+ 2' 3/4" rips, the rock ripper is as fast as any man and PERFECT.

Idc who you are sub 4" rips are a pita. Sure I wouldnt use it all the time but that sucker pays for itself in no time if you have a lot of tiny rips.

Ryobi makes a really (surprisingly so) nice cordless router too. Works at 90% or so effectiveness vs a corded rotozip. Can cut about 15-18 or so boxes or small can lights with a charge. $40 at HD with no battery, people talk smack on ryobi cordlesses but ive dropped mine off two sections of scaffolding and its still ticking. $100 for impact, drill and two batterys too.. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015...200_QL40&qid=1410351047&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1


----------



## GypRocknRoll73

After every day of untangling cords from other cords,horses,stairs,piles of GypRock,random 2x4,scaffolding I Finally bought a cordless Makita drywall screwgun and 3ah battery.Just waiting for the matching router to come in but Im gonna do a head to head test with my dewalt 274 and my partners corded Makita.


----------



## nodnarb

GypRocknRoll73 said:


> After every day of untangling cords from other cords,horses,stairs,piles of GypRock,random 2x4,scaffolding I Finally bought a cordless Makita drywall screwgun and 3ah battery.Just waiting for the matching router to come in but Im gonna do a head to head test with my dewalt 274 and my partners corded Makita.


You will be pleasantly surprised. Even on heavygauge the cordless makita shines. Same rpm's as my corded makita too. My only issue is you cant lock it down like you can the hilti. 

Thats a deal breaker for me, as the habit of using guns locked down kills my speed on the makita. Power wise id say it is every bit as good as the sd4500


----------



## scottktmrider

I like to use the cordless guns to tack sheets up than I'll have a screw bitch come thru with corded gun and finish it off,


----------



## nodnarb

scottktmrider said:


> I like to use the cordless guns to tack sheets up than I'll have a screw bitch come thru with corded gun and finish it off,


Ive been working with a fellow mechanic for the past ~2 months. Which is great when doing doors, framing, ceilings ect.


On rock we HATE eachother, his cuts are sloppy and his numbers are a little big. If I compensate for them being big his numbers are dead nut. We trade off being screw bitch to be "fair". 

Im about 15 years younger than him so he thinks I oughta be screw bitch forever. Got me missing my little dumbchit helpers..


----------



## evolve991

Idc who you are sub 4" rips are a pita. Sure I wouldnt use it all the time but that sucker pays for itself in no time if you have a lot of tiny rips.


:furious: _Just _got home from a 20 sheet job with *FOURTEEN WINDOWS* and a slider that they wanted wrapped and beaded. You're right!!!! Been ripping for 28 years and it STILL sucks!!!! No easy way to do 64 4" rips  

So glad our finisher refuses to let anyone put his bead on.:yes:


----------



## scottktmrider

nodnarb said:


> Ive been working with a fellow mechanic for the past ~2 months. Which is great when doing doors, framing, ceilings ect.
> 
> 
> On rock we HATE eachother, his cuts are sloppy and his numbers are a little big. If I compensate for them being big his numbers are dead nut. We trade off being screw bitch to be "fair".
> 
> Im about 15 years younger than him so he thinks I oughta be screw bitch forever. Got me missing my little dumbchit helpers..


I am 45 yrs old, if a younger guy is just as fast and good as me I'll jump out of the way and be the screw bitch, I am to old to hang more or less too proud


----------



## mld

scottktmrider said:


> i am 45 yrs old, if a younger guy is just as fast and good as me i'll jump out of the way and be the screw bitch, i am to old to hang more or less too proud


amen!


----------



## moore

scottktmrider said:


> I am 45 yrs old, if a younger guy is just as fast and good as me I'll jump out of the way and be the screw bitch, I am to old to hang more or less too proud


Yes Sir!!! I have no problem being a cutter and a screw bitch !!!

Glad to do It!!! I'll even hand up to ya! Here ya go....It's yours!!


----------



## ColeReno

Roto zips are a man's best friend. I find at first you wil break a lot of boys until you get a feel for it, so buy multi packs. But they are a great investment


----------



## nodnarb

scottktmrider said:


> I am 45 yrs old, if a younger guy is just as fast and good as me I'll jump out of the way and be the screw bitch, I am to old to hang more or less too proud


Wish more people would take that perspective. It aint easy being a 25 year old white drywaller. All the guys who speak english are 40+ and treat me like a kid or are intimidated (that someone half their age makes the same money or better) and anyone near my age doesnt speak english.

Ive busted my ass to make top pay, my helper tenure is through. Age is not equal to skill set, and dare I say time in the trade is not the same as _experience_.

Sorry about the rant, its just a constant struggle. I want to outright state I dont think I am the BEST or that I know it ALL, but im damn good and bring top dollar for a reason.


----------



## eastex1963

I have just put 3 of my Dewalts in the shop. I bought a 20v Dewalt cut out. Lasted two days and it effed up. Just took it 40 miles to the repair guy and he just exchanged it with another new one. DONE WITH DEWALT CUT OUT. I counted up 36 tools I own with the Dewalt name on them. Somebody please tell me there is something better out there. Makita? Corded vs. battery? The whole design on the Dewalt is flawed. The owner of the service center (not the guy who usually treats me right...his son) looks at it today and says...well, it's got a lot of dust and crap in there......really Einstein? I didn't really have an answer for him.....Just thought to myself, what a D$#A$$.......I'm changing my 50 year old ways I tell ya! lol


----------



## MrWillys

My dad bought me one of these in the 80's, and I replaced it with the same in about 2011. That's what American made gives you for service.


----------



## mld

MrWillys said:


> My dad bought me one of these in the 80's, and I replaced it with the same in about 2011. That's what American made gives you for service.


Yep, but their new ones are junk.


----------



## MrWillys

mld said:


> Yep, but their new ones are junk.


 That's when Ebay can be your friend. I bought an new old stock unit that still says made in America.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORTER-CABL...634?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35dc71af3a


----------



## gazman

eastex1963 said:


> I have just put 3 of my Dewalts in the shop. I bought a 20v Dewalt cut out. Lasted two days and it effed up. Just took it 40 miles to the repair guy and he just exchanged it with another new one. DONE WITH DEWALT CUT OUT. I counted up 36 tools I own with the Dewalt name on them. Somebody please tell me there is something better out there. Makita? Corded vs. battery? The whole design on the Dewalt is flawed. The owner of the service center (not the guy who usually treats me right...his son) looks at it today and says...well, it's got a lot of dust and crap in there......really Einstein? I didn't really have an answer for him.....Just thought to myself, what a D$#A$$.......I'm changing my 50 year old ways I tell ya! lol


Not long after starting this thread just over 3 years ago I got a Makita corded router. I just replaced the original set of brushes last month. A great tool, still going strong. Regular maintenance is the key, blow it out with compressed air regularly and about twice a year open it up and give it a good clean out and re-lube the bearings.


----------



## mld

gazman said:


> Not long after starting this thread just over 3 years ago I got a Makita corded router. I just replaced the original set of brushes last month. A great tool, still going strong. Regular maintenance is the key, blow it out with compressed air regularly and about twice a year open it up and give it a good clean out and re-lube the bearings.


Which one?


----------



## gazman

The Aussie version of this. We run 240v 10 amps.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0JZ0A4ZWDW4RRZE6QJ3N


----------



## scottktmrider

nodnarb said:


> Wish more people would take that perspective. It aint easy being a 25 year old white drywaller. All the guys who speak english are 40+ and treat me like a kid or are intimidated (that someone half their age makes the same money or better) and anyone near my age doesnt speak english.
> 
> Ive busted my ass to make top pay, my helper tenure is through. Age is not equal to skill set, and dare I say time in the trade is not the same as _experience_.
> 
> Sorry about the rant, its just a constant struggle. I want to outright state I dont think I am the BEST or that I know it ALL, but im damn good and bring top dollar for a reason.


Just hang in there, people are watching your production believe it or not the walls have eyes. not once in 25+ yrs have I regreat that I busted my ass among a bunch of slackers
When I was an apprentice I went home crying many nights but it gets better.
Of course when I started in the trade there was so much work you could quit a jack off company and walk down the street start with another one and wouldn't miss an hour.
I've never worked around non English speaking guys so don't know what to tell you there


----------



## mud bud

_I'm wondering if this tape measure is going to make life easier for all the boarders in the world. There is a short video on this kickstarter link. _
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/garymccallum/1985674832/edit?ref=email 
_The carpenters seem to have a more positive response to the concept than the boarders I've talked to so far. Some of the hangers think it great others are indifferent._


----------



## GypRocknRoll73

Rotozip makes a 3/8 bit for routers called the X bit. Changing the collette is a piece of cake just make sure to keep your 1/4 inch one. Its supposed to last twice as long but its probably 20 times longer lasting. I've had 1/4 bits break seconds apart from each other. No downside except one handed wobble sometimes.


----------



## scottktmrider

GypRocknRoll73 said:


> Rotozip makes a 3/8 bit for routers called the X bit. Changing the collette is a piece of cake just make sure to keep your 1/4 inch one. Its supposed to last twice as long but its probably 20 times longer lasting. I've had 1/4 bits break seconds apart from each other. No downside except one handed wobble sometimes.


They do cut well, but they aren't 3/8 something like 3/32. The tapper would have a cow if you cut a box out with a 3/8 bit lol


----------



## MrWillys

scottktmrider said:


> They do cut well, but they aren't 3/8 something like 3/32. The tapper would have a cow if you cut a box out with a 3/8 bit lol


 I knew guys who used 2 routers. one with the big bit for doors and windows, and the small bit for openings and boxes. I stuck with my big saw for doors.


----------



## scottktmrider

MrWillys said:


> I knew guys who used 2 routers. one with the big bit for doors and windows, and the small bit for openings and boxes. I stuck with my big saw for doors.


I do the same cause the rotozip 3/32 just doesn't quite cut it for windows and doors like the 1/4


----------



## nodnarb

MrWillys said:


> I knew guys who used 2 routers. one with the big bit for doors and windows, and the small bit for openings and boxes. I stuck with my big saw for doors.


I got a buddy who uses a wood router for doors only. Sure its quick but I feel sawing across the top and backcutting is faster all things considered.



scottktmrider said:


> Just hang in there, people are watching your production believe it or not the walls have eyes. not once in 25+ yrs have I regreat that I busted my ass among a bunch of slackers
> When I was an apprentice I went home crying many nights but it gets better.
> Of course when I started in the trade there was so much work you could quit a jack off company and walk down the street start with another one and wouldn't miss an hour.
> I've never worked around non English speaking guys so don't know what to tell you there


Yeah. I hear my dad in the back of my head saying "Aww does your pu$$y hurt!!". 



> I've never worked around non English speaking guys so don't know what to tell you there


Missouri here I come.


----------



## eastex1963

scottktmrider said:


> They do cut well, but they aren't 3/8 something like 3/32. The tapper would have a cow if you cut a box out with a 3/8 bit lol


I think they are 5/32.....the dewalt comes with 1/8 and 1/4. I had to buy the 5/32 separate. It lasts about 3 4000 ft. houses before it gets too dull. They do break but not very often if you know how to use them.


----------

