# i want a bazooka



## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm considering looking at a premier/blueline bazooka. they said it was a premier but said it was only a couple of years old sooo....i've read through a bunch of old threads and it's the usual TT, columbia, northstar(not so much now) are the best blueline is clumsy but strong stuff. it also seems that the people that do use blueline tools really like them. the price is right if it works good and i'm sure i could learn to use it but just wanted some current opinions and cosiderations. thanks.


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## Goodmanatee (Sep 24, 2010)

When it comes down to it, they're all pretty much the same. Some are a bit fancy than others. I've used northstar, TT, premier and Columbia. Northstar I own and the others are my mates. All do the same thing. 
Sypke me dude. I'll give you a run through.
Give it a bath in hot water and good clean and oil it up. If it's not that old should work like new.


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

*Just a thought...*

I have noticed that there is a seller on ebay selling quite a few TT tools. The thing is... they are all reconditioned and HAVE A ONE YEAR WARRANTY. A reasonably priced used tool with a one year warranty sounds like it could be too good to be true. It might be worth checking out. 

If I can find the sellers name and info on ebay I can pass it on to you if you want.

I think that the tapers were going for around $600


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Here it is...

http://cgi.ebay.com/TAPE-TECH-DRYWA...287?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c7286b47


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> i'm considering looking at a premier/blueline bazooka. they said it was a premier but said it was only a couple of years old sooo....i've read through a bunch of old threads and it's the usual TT, columbia, northstar(not so much now) are the best blueline is clumsy but strong stuff. it also seems that the people that do use blueline tools really like them. the price is right if it works good and i'm sure i could learn to use it but just wanted some current opinions and cosiderations. thanks.


 if you get it ..dont give up they take a bit to master...trust me..and than one day it will all click...you wont just pick it up and start throwing tape on ...there is a learing curve:thumbsup:


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## muttbucket (Jul 10, 2011)

I'm not saying you shouldn't do whatever your set on,

I have only used tapetech Ames and premier(premier was more than 10 years ago now.
The premier has a fatter head.
So if you think about tubes as cars,
the ames and TT would be sportier models than the venerable caddy that you would have to liken a premier with
So in short,
the head of the old premier was fat-
had to tape angles just so,
if you know well there you have it.
It is harder for me to tape with the old fat style tube,
I like a regular old TT now
my first tool work was behind tapeworms
my first making a tube pay was behind ames
my first bootyfab getting started had me suffering through using a friend's premier
and now for ten I have a TT
Good tool
I have premier style boxes though.
Hand built by a man who started with ames back after the war
he was 80 something when he built mine.
I love using them
the boxes I mean.
Them tubes were hard,
but the original style boxes are the greatest system-:thumbsup::thumbup:
I'm eating lunch at home today as a nice change.
Irate customer wasn't happy I charged him 2bills
for just a bunch of hanging.
The thing was supposedly finished,
he kept adding filler studs to his fenestrations until I had easy 2.5 hrs to just get close.
Now I am putting on skylite pieces and trying to tell him I ain't gonna shim period.
No shimming from the taper.
I was just going to throw on a few pieces but that grew into a 4-6 hour ordeal 
I must be paid for my extra work.
The rock alone is 4-6 hours.
I thought he would square tha damn thing at least to pretty good now.
So it kept growing and growing. 2 hrs has turned into 6
I now will bring my tube after lunch,
and apply at least 8-10 patches worth of tape in 10-15 minutes.
he'll see there is a method to the madness,
and I won't have suffered someone else's lack of vision without compensation-
Thank you,
Charlie


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## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

smisner50 got it right, I was lucky enough to wipe behind someone for a year or so and learned soooo much by watching that when I picked it up it wasn't hard to run. The biggest thing is identifing the problems that occur and how to deal with them.
By the way I wouldent trade my blue line angle roller and boxes for any other, but never ran their tapers.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i'm considering looking at a premier/blueline bazooka. they said it was a premier but said it was only a couple of years old sooo....i've read through a bunch of old threads and it's the usual TT, columbia, northstar(not so much now) are the best blueline is clumsy but strong stuff. it also seems that the people that do use blueline tools really like them. the price is right if it works good and i'm sure i could learn to use it but just wanted some current opinions and cosiderations. thanks.


Look moore, carpentapers wife will let him get tools, a bazooka at that









Isn't Columbia tools a hop, skip and a jump from your house carpentaper. They might have something kicking around their shop that is used:yes:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

At work I use the Ames bazooka, and it does just fine. However, I personally own a Drywall Master taper, thing runs like a dream compared to the Ames. Smooth as silk, and unlike the Ames, mine has an adjustable "clicker" that increases or decreases the amount of drag I want to put on the tape. It's great for running corners!

I'd liken the Ames to a standard car, ford focus for example, and my DM to a caddy.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> At work I use the Ames bazooka, and it does just fine. However, I personally own a Drywall Master taper, thing runs like a dream compared to the Ames. Smooth as silk, and unlike the Ames, mine has an adjustable "clicker" that increases or decreases the amount of drag I want to put on the tape. It's great for running corners!
> 
> I'd liken the Ames to a standard car, ford focus for example, and my DM to a caddy.


By clicker do you mean adjustable brake, or something else?????

guessing it's the brake, it will change the clicking sound when adjusted.

just so others know..........:thumbsup:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Yes, it's the little piece under the drive wheel that clicks and keeps the drive wheel from spinning backwards and therefore keeps the plunger from dropping down the tube under the weight of the mud.

If it weren't so late I would take a pic


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Look moore, carpentapers wife will let him get tools, a bazooka at that
> 
> 
> 
> ...


i actually hinted/asked if they had some old tools kicking around that they would sell in a thread a lomg time ago. i got zero reply. i'm not suprised though. i think that would be kind of a pandora's box for them. they would probably be flooded with all kinds of people looking for handouts if rumour got around you could get discounted stuff from their factory. my first choice probably would be columbia for their proximity and customer service alone. i think blueline is pretty popular down in washington though so getting replacement parts would be pretty easy and all the tech support i need is here anyway:thumbsup: unless the thing is a complete POS i think i'll be okay.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i actually hinted/asked if they had some old tools kicking around that they would sell in a thread a lomg time ago. i got zero reply. i'm not suprised though. i think that would be kind of a pandora's box for them. they would probably be flooded with all kinds of people looking for handouts if rumour got around you could get discounted stuff from their factory. my first choice probably would be columbia for their proximity and customer service alone. i think blueline is pretty popular down in washington though so getting replacement parts would be pretty easy and all the tech support i need is here anyway:thumbsup: unless the thing is a complete POS i think i'll be okay.


Steven Harper says buy Canadian

And not a single yank will understand what I just said to you:whistling2:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm buying used so i don't think that is a major factor to me. when i do finally get angle heads i know which kind i'll buy. the price on the bazooka is really good. i just have to wait until i see it to get a feel for what kind of shape it's in. by theway you guys have been going nuts posting lately. i can't keep up on my own thread even.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

carpentaper said:


> i'm buying used so i don't think that is a major factor to me. when i do finally get angle heads i know which kind i'll buy. the price on the bazooka is really good. i just have to wait until i see it to get a feel for what kind of shape it's in. by theway you guys have been going nuts posting lately. i can't keep up on my own thread even.


If you got a 2nd hand one there's not a part on them that Can't be replaced, just watch out for a pitted or rotted tube, but even they are replaceable.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> If you got a 2nd hand one there's not a part on them that Can't be replaced, just watch out for a pitted or rotted tube, but even they are replaceable.


Kiwiman is actually right about something:whistling2:

The tube it self is the most important thing, watch the video Columbia tools put up on their face book page. If your mechanical, do what they do in their vid and your Bazooka will be like new. Were about once a year we send them to our supply house. The sales guy there fixes/tunes them up for us, and they run like new. (what can I say,I'm lazy) My poor lady (the tape tec) is in there right now, My daughter nicked named her "my wife"

Separation is such a hard thing to go through


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## muttbucket (Jul 10, 2011)

yeah a good deal isn't always the best deal.
I never had as much invested as in my tools when I first got them.
Now many miles and years later I'm so glad I never looked back,
It's an attitude dude!
Like when ricky bobby says"yeah, I pretty much piss excellence."
dude spend a few more bucks for a lot less headache and get a mail order bride in the shape of something you can use.
So get the premier and suffer through angles,
or spend a grand more for the right thing.
oh well,
opinions are like opinions


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

muttbucket said:


> yeah a good deal isn't always the best deal.
> I never had as much invested as in my tools when I first got them.
> Now many miles and years later I'm so glad I never looked back,
> It's an attitude dude!
> ...


 I know mutt, I bought my first zooka, a DM used,,,,, for 500,,, after i got it ALL fixed,,,, I could have bought it new for less


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

I GOT A BERZOOKUM!!!!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:I've basically wanted one for three years. Woooooo!!! 
Now I get to swear at it on my next few jobs:yes:. It is an old premier. I got it for 400 US which right now works out to 375 Canadian. I'm pretty sure everything on it is working but I'll find out on monday. Now I actually have a point of reference to all these bazooka posts to start learning the parts names and stuff. The only thing I noticed was that the drive chain was a bit loose I will replace that soon as I have read they loosen over time. It's a lot simpler of a machine now that I have one in my hands to see. I think it will need some tuning up but the guy that I bought it from said it worked and he seemed like a good guy. I know how that sounds after re-reading it, but I have a pretty good BS detector.Yaaaaaaayyyyyy.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

carpentaper said:


> I GOT A BERZOOKUM!!!!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:I've basically wanted one for three years. Woooooo!!!
> Now I get to swear at it on my next few jobs:yes:. It is an old premier. I got it for 400 US which right now works out to 375 Canadian. I'm pretty sure everything on it is working but I'll find out on monday. Now I actually have a point of reference to all these bazooka posts to start learning the parts names and stuff. The only thing I noticed was that the drive chain was a bit loose I will replace that soon as I have read they loosen over time. It's a lot simpler of a machine now that I have one in my hands to see. I think it will need some tuning up but the guy that I bought it from said it worked and he seemed like a good guy. I know how that sounds after re-reading it, but I have a pretty good BS detector.Yaaaaaaayyyyyy.


 Kool,,, hope you have fun with it,,, the first day I ran mine, I came home, sat on the couch, and wanted to cry like a bitc*,,, it kicked my arse!!!!!

Don't be too concerned about that chain, they are looser than you might think they should be,,, If it don't slip, don't worry about it right now.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

it doesn't slip so i'm not super worried i just think it could be tighter.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> I GOT A BERZOOKUM!!!!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:I've basically wanted one for three years. Woooooo!!!
> Now I get to swear at it on my next few jobs:yes:. It is an old premier. I got it for 400 US which right now works out to 375 Canadian. I'm pretty sure everything on it is working but I'll find out on monday. Now I actually have a point of reference to all these bazooka posts to start learning the parts names and stuff. The only thing I noticed was that the drive chain was a bit loose I will replace that soon as I have read they loosen over time. It's a lot simpler of a machine now that I have one in my hands to see. I think it will need some tuning up but the guy that I bought it from said it worked and he seemed like a good guy. I know how that sounds after re-reading it, but I have a pretty good BS detector.Yaaaaaaayyyyyy.


Way to go Carpentaper, and when you figure out what all the names to the parts are, let me know too.

I know you have probably seen this already, but trust me, it's the easiest way to get those angle tapes to run. and make sure for the angle tapes, your mud is very runny, the more runny the mud is, the less they will drag. When mixing, you want to see a large bubble come up from your mud when you stop mixing, a mini nuclear explosion we call it. your don't half to be as runny with the mud mix for the flats.

The secret to the bazooka, is the mud mix :yes:

http://www.youtube.com/user/2buckcanuck?feature=mhee#p/a/u/0/xooYBevv-Ck


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Maybe some master of the obvious things to you, but in case some didn't come to mind:



carpentaper said:


> the price is right if it works good and i'm sure i could learn to use it but just wanted some current opinions and cosiderations. thanks.


For a 'check' as to how it's running, and how well you're running it, for the 1st while you could try FibaFuse on the butts and flats (bevel areas). That'll let you know how well the mud is feeding onto the tape's backside, so you don't end up with a lot of surprise dry spots that show up when you start coating. I don't use Fiba in the angles, because of possible tape cutting issues.
But the 1st time I did use Fiba - a house last summer - I did use it in the corners as well, as it was what was supplied to me. No cutting issues feedback - yet. But I used flushers, not angle heads for that one, to more make sure of it.
Make sure you keep at least one of the 2 ratchet gear wheels on the wall at all times, so the plunger keeps coming up the tube and you don't end up with dry spots. That can especially happen when doing corners - at least it seems so to me. You might want to even consider doing the horizontal ceiling angles your old way for awhile, if you find them difficult enough, till you get more used to the bazooka.



Expanding on 2buck's comment of:



2buckcanuck said:


> The secret to the bazooka, is the mud mix :yes:


In case you didn't see or remember a previous post of mine, Columbia's user manual rule of thumb for mud mixing - thin enough that when you run your finger through it, it doesn't maintain a hollowed valley, but collapses in on itself.

All-Wall's Columbia bazooka page will give you links to parts diagrams, parts names, and their user manual. Someone said the manual saved them on their 1st bazooka job. The All-Wall Columbia page: http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Automatic-Tapers/Columbia-Tools-Automatic-Taper



If you have access to it, maybe posting videos of how you're doing might get you some useful input.

Best luck.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i still have to buy a gooseneck and a corner roller. i won't get to try it until probably tuesday. can't wait. i think i'll try it with paper first.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i still have to buy a gooseneck and a corner roller. i won't get to try it until probably tuesday. can't wait. i think i'll try it with paper first.


You don't need the goose neck, just side mount it, another words, hold the bazooka horizontal, put it on the valve to the pump, and away you go, Should work 95% of the time, but sometimes the valve on the bazooka or the pump is too short, so check 1st,

I got a old TT roller in my garage some where, it's got to get rebuilt. Say the Vancouver Canucks suck and the Toronto Maple Leafs are the greatest and best team ever, and I will send it to you:jester::whistling2:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

*aarrrggghhhh!!!*

what a humbling tool to try and learn. frustration and disappointment. by far the hardest tool i have ever picked up and tried to learn. i expected it to be a frustrating experience so it wasn't too bad. i spent about an hour and a half messing around with it until i retired it and pulled ou the banjo so i could get some tapes on. i managed to tape the butts and flats on the walls and i got a fiew ceiling butts too. but for some reason when i started to try and do the ceiling flats i would just get dry tape after a couple of feet or ther would not be enough mud. i didn't even bother with the angles i had already made a huge mess and i just wanted to get the job done. the only real dissapointment is that i do not have another job to use it on any time soon. i'm by no means giving up. i'll just have to wait and read all the threads i can until the next job comes around. pull the zooka out and give it a spin and put er away if need be. it's all just practice i'm sure. but holy sh!t did i make a mess. i almost threw in the towel when i had a tape jam on me and i started cursing and unscrewing things and fu**ing around until i realized there had to be a way to get that tape out with something that every taper has at his disposal. out came my 1 1/2" knife and i pushed the little bastard out and got a few more tapes up until i started getting those dry spots. i emptied out the bazooka filled it back up to try and make sure ther were no air pockets that would be causing it but again the same issue. i think it was probably user error though becuase i didn't have problems on the wall. maybe i wasn't pressing hard enough and the wheel wasn't turning but the tape was still unrolling. i also made a big mess when filling it. the more it filled the more would start to come out the end onto the floor. i did have a scrap piece of board under it at least.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> what a humbling tool to try and learn. frustration and disappointment. by far the hardest tool i have ever picked up and tried to learn. i expected it to be a frustrating experience so it wasn't too bad. i spent about an hour and a half messing around with it until i retired it and pulled ou the banjo so i could get some tapes on. i managed to tape the butts and flats on the walls and i got a fiew ceiling butts too. but for some reason when i started to try and do the ceiling flats i would just get dry tape after a couple of feet or ther would not be enough mud. i didn't even bother with the angles i had already made a huge mess and i just wanted to get the job done. the only real dissapointment is that i do not have another job to use it on any time soon. i'm by no means giving up. i'll just have to wait and read all the threads i can until the next job comes around. pull the zooka out and give it a spin and put er away if need be. it's all just practice i'm sure. but holy sh!t did i make a mess. i almost threw in the towel when i had a tape jam on me and i started cursing and unscrewing things and fu**ing around until i realized there had to be a way to get that tape out with something that every taper has at his disposal. out came my 1 1/2" knife and i pushed the little bastard out and got a few more tapes up until i started getting those dry spots. i emptied out the bazooka filled it back up to try and make sure ther were no air pockets that would be causing it but again the same issue. i think it was probably user error though becuase i didn't have problems on the wall. maybe i wasn't pressing hard enough and the wheel wasn't turning but the tape was still unrolling. i also made a big mess when filling it. the more it filled the more would start to come out the end onto the floor. i did have a scrap piece of board under it at least.


The filling issue sounds like your gate might have been half-open.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> what a humbling tool to try and learn. frustration and disappointment. by far the hardest tool i have ever picked up and tried to learn. i expected it to be a frustrating experience so it wasn't too bad. i spent about an hour and a half messing around with it until i retired it and pulled ou the banjo so i could get some tapes on. i managed to tape the butts and flats on the walls and i got a fiew ceiling butts too. but for some reason when i started to try and do the ceiling flats i would just get dry tape after a couple of feet or ther would not be enough mud. i didn't even bother with the angles i had already made a huge mess and i just wanted to get the job done. the only real dissapointment is that i do not have another job to use it on any time soon. i'm by no means giving up. i'll just have to wait and read all the threads i can until the next job comes around. pull the zooka out and give it a spin and put er away if need be. it's all just practice i'm sure. but holy sh!t did i make a mess. i almost threw in the towel when i had a tape jam on me and i started cursing and unscrewing things and fu**ing around until i realized there had to be a way to get that tape out with something that every taper has at his disposal. out came my 1 1/2" knife and i pushed the little bastard out and got a few more tapes up until i started getting those dry spots. i emptied out the bazooka filled it back up to try and make sure ther were no air pockets that would be causing it but again the same issue. i think it was probably user error though becuase i didn't have problems on the wall. maybe i wasn't pressing hard enough and the wheel wasn't turning but the tape was still unrolling. i also made a big mess when filling it. the more it filled the more would start to come out the end onto the floor. i did have a scrap piece of board under it at least.


LMAO:lol:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Hey ,, I know what you can do carpenter .
buy a hawk, a 5'' knife,, a 8'' knife ,and a roll of tape.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

wwwww


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

carpentaper said:


> but for some reason when i started to try and do the ceiling flats i would just get dry tape after a couple of feet or ther would not be enough mud. ........


If you were using the creaser wheel to help stick the tape to the ceiling, sometimes you might be putting enough leverage pressure with it on the ceiling that you could be creating some 'lift away' from the ceiling for the ratchet gears. That could lead to dry tapes &/or not enough mud.
Or your plunger isn't ratcheting up the tube like it should when doing ceilings.
Or you're 'floating' the ratchet gears away for the ceiling a bit, and not having good enough contact at all times.



carpentaper said:


> i also made a big mess when filling it. the more it filled the more would start to come out the end onto the floor.


As Slim said, sounds like you didn't have the gate closed all the way - ie. the lever you use to direct the flow of mud down the tube, while pumping it full of mud, wasn't flipped all the way in the direction it should've been.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

the red arrow is the valve thingy/switch to fill the Bazooka, right now, in this pic, it is half way on, it must be pushed more forward to close the gate. If it won't go more forward, then there may be some dried up mud or something stopping it. IT MUST GO ALL THE WAY FORWARD.

The green arrow is one thing a lot of guys over look. the pin thing a ma goober. right now, it is in the up position, meaning the bazooka should be empty, but if you fill it, and that pin don't move down, you will get dry spots running all through your tapes. Push it down by hand, even give it a LITE tap with a hammer if you must, If it is sticking up after you fill the tube, you will get dry spots.

But , what slim said in his post sounds to be the problem, no mud should be coming out anywhere when you fill the bazookie. So it sounds like your gate was open when you were filling it. Meaning it's going to suck in a lot of air with it too.

Also some other tips, most pumps (not all) should be around 9 pumps to fill the bazooka, some could be 8 pumps, others could be 10 pumps. but if your getting up to 13,14, 15, pumps, then your pump is going, meaning it's sucking in air as you fill. One way to find out, when you fill up the tube, in gauge the valve (pull the lever back, off the wheel thingie) then do what I call "BURPING" the Bazooka. Hold the tube up right, and start bouncing/tapping the base off the bazooka on the floor. Do this for 30 seconds or so, this will bounce the air out of the tube, and let the mud settle in the tube. Then, when you turn the gear by hand, and you can get a few turns out before mud starts to come out of the tube, then you know your pump is sucking air.

Also, come to a COMPLETE STOP when you cut, do a 1,2 count then cut, most jams come from still moving the bazooka when cutting.

When you see one of those steel band things that hold trusses together when they ship them, grab a one foot piece of that . they work great for jammed bazooka's. Also, release the chain before you try to clean the jam out, you could wreck the cutting blade if you dont. Release the chain with that "O" ring thing that you pull on.

There is a way to un-jam the tube just using the drywall tape too:yes:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I agree with the others, sounds like your gate wasn't fully closed. The lever that controls it moves back farther than what you might think. If you are using a gooseneck to fill, sometimes you just have to lean the top of the taper away from the pump just a bit.








As for the dry tapes at the beginning of the ceilings, sounds like the brake or clicker as I call it isn't working properly. I've had the same thing happen to me before. Worked fine for the walls, but as soon as you hold the bazooka vertical, the weight of the mud starts to push the plunger back down the tube. When you start to run a ceiling you now have an empty spot in the tube, and therefore a dry spot.








Also make sure that the pin/lever/whatever you want to call it on the cap is down all the way after you fill.








Hope this helps. Hang in there! The taper is one of those tools that will drive you nuts, and then one day it will click. When I started running it, I HATED the thing, I struggled and struggled. Then I switched over to running the box. A month or so later I had to run the taper again... I dreaded it, but in the mean time something clicked, and I had no issues what-so-ever.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

WTH 2Buck! LOL, In the time it took me to fetch my taper, take some pics, resize em, and type out everything, you beat me to it!!:jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> WTH 2Buck! LOL, In the time it took me to fetch my taper, take some pics, resize em, and type out everything, you beat me to it!!:jester:


LOL, that's it, I'm stealing my daughters camera from her for good.

Good pics:thumbsup: , and good point about the brake, that one will do it too.

Looks like Carpentaper is going to be our pet project. To have never even seen a bazooka ran in person, then try to self teach yourself, my hat goes off to carpentaper:thumbup:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'll try and post a pic soon but i think i may have figured it out. it's not the little pin thingy not being depressed its the mechanism on the other side of it. the lock thing that connects the drive chain to the cable/plunger madgigy. it can move freely and become disengaged just from tilting it. so as soon as it becomes disengaged the mud drops. i'm not talking about the clicker, that works fine. it makes sense to me because i'm not getting dry spots. the mud flow is stopping completely. a pic would help and i'll get there but i need my wife to do it. she is the tech one.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

in freight trains third pic it is the little thing just left of the chain. it's just poking it's little head out.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

as far as the mess it sounds like it probably is the gate. maybe manually pushing the lever up might help. it might just not be reaching its final destination just from the plunger.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> LOL, that's it, I'm stealing my daughters camera from her for good.
> 
> Good pics:thumbsup: , and good point about the brake, that one will do it too.
> 
> Looks like Carpentaper is going to be our pet project. To have never even seen a bazooka ran in person, then try to self teach yourself, my hat goes off to carpentaper:thumbup:


 
I had never seen anyone run one before and tought myself, You just have to screw up and figure it out over and over, Hey Carpentaper, John Lumans dvd set on how to run the tools is helpful, And get into u tube, search bazooka etc, Tapetech has a clip on the bazooka, so does drywallmaster etc, Thats all i had, It sounds like 2buck to the rescue and hes doing great, Dam hard to type how to use these things, I actually learnt a lot when a got an old taptech and reconditioned it up, I have a goldblatt and a tapetech.

One little overlooked thing that will turn your world into a mess is the blade, It needs to be fresh and sharp, If its not then it will tapejamb you silly, Get many spares and change often, Even a new one can be no good, so change it again, That was one of my biggest problem causes., And it must seat all the way back, if it doesnt more tape jambs, Look over it and learn it, See the guide the bladeblock slides through, it must be clean and clear.


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## muttbucket (Jul 10, 2011)

So if you're talking about the plunger dealio
the thingy that you shove in to disengage the drive post thingy thing that is pulling the spindle drive wheel gizmo that has the cable wrapped around it.
Well,
that dealio thingy is spring loaded.
I'm not too familiar with how to fix the spring on one,
but you may need to.
The back plate comes off.
^ or so small screws.
Take it off.
After getting all the ancient residue of a thousand battles for the paltry farmland of some too parsimonious gentry off and cleaned up,
you can proceed to lube the thing like your life depends on it.
Then buy some obscure size spring etc that'll set you back 100's when you finally decide you must have a new piece,
hten find out premiere doesn't make parts anymore,
but for a premium you can use some other obscure manufacturers parts-
cripes man
take good advice and buy what you need to be the MAN
and learn to use it on your own garage.
It is balance like a ballerina that sees a man put on 20 rolls.
Not brute force or some magical mix.
I put in 1 cornerbox full of water for bazooka mud.
So thin, but not too.
You don't want it to hold peaks when you pull the stomper out.
Then,
Start on bottom butts.
Take the time it takes to really see how you need to run the wheel on one side or tother to not mush out mud, but on lids the constant contact of the drive wheel should be accompanied by the corner wheel thingy until you get the feel of how to let the other side of the tape almost get mushed too.
So start on low butts, do the low flats,
do the low angles.
THEN
try to take your growing skill and use it on those nasty ceilings.
Take all day for 2 rolls.
Really.
You'll be able to run the tube by the end of the day
Not well,
but at least you wont have bird droppings
more like elephant dung in this case it seems.
Get a new tube.
On credit if you have to.
Are you taping houses?
You'll make your money back in no time once you can really run the thing.
Took me maybe about ten years to become adequate at using one.
Good luck,
and everybody has those experiences you describe unless you get lots of training.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

*Premier*



carpentaper said:


> as far as the mess it sounds like it probably is the gate. maybe manually pushing the lever up might help. it might just not be reaching its final destination just from the plunger.


 Hi ther Carpenter!
I have been running blueline/premier guns for the last 18 years! I still use my first 1 and it is 18 years old and still going strong
When filling it make sure the leaver is pushed hard up,if this dont stop the leaking check the bar this is attached to as these can get bent and not close the gate fully!
U say the drive cog comes out when u tilt it or something like that! Well there is a spring that pushes it back into the sprocket(big wheel that chain goes round) Make sure this is working and is there! the drive cog should spring back into the sprocket when pulled out if not i think u need a new spring and this will stop it falling out and the plunger taking off down the barrell again:thumbsup:


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Here,s the simplest way to look at it----- dont go to work thinking wow I,m going to kill it today, cause without ever running the zooka,your in for a tough day. Tell yourself that I know I,m going to struggle today but I wont let that thing kill me,cause until you figure the thing out you would rather throw it under a passing bus by 10am. You will easily lose a day of your time on every job for a couple months,just dont get discouraged, cause when you finally get efficient with it it will be your best friend ,treat it that way.I hated the thing--was a hand finisher for about 10 years before I went to mechanical tools, swore a storm up for months-- you,ll love it when it finally clicks, practice and patience young man,, you have the tool now the money is on its way!!!!!


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

more courage than me:thumbsup:Have picked one up more than a dozen times over the many many, many years,got to wear could string a lil tape (flats and butts) but still couldnt probably fill one up if handed to me let alone work on or repair. The guys that have worked for me than ran zooks always made sure to clean every day...tha days the zook wasnt thoroughly cleaned were usually times when it would malfunction:yes:then Id breakout my trusty ole banjo and slap up some tape.Sometimes I wondered if there zook really broke.. I use all blueline tools (among others) and am more than impressed with them ,Im sure there bazooka is same. Good Luck


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

If your tapes have a dry spot of about 2" starting around 4" from the beginning of your run(flats or butts) than your advanceing the tape after you cut and before you engage the wheels again(operator error).

Other than that, the only way to get dry tape is if the plungeer is not delivering the mud to the tape NON_STOP. This is caused by a number of things(see 2bucks post, and the ones that follow), I would check, in this order
1)clicker brake
2)thingamijig lever that ya push down to load
3)spring in the thingamigid (dog) on the big sprocket
4)pump,,,,,, if you pump air in your tube, you will have dry spots.

Just another way to re-iterate the advice you have already got.

I was a self-taught zooka operator,,,, and the first day I tried it, I came home, sat on the couch,,, and really considered, crying like a bit*h.

Hang in there, you'll get it


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

vanman i think you are right. there is no spring. for the life of me i cannot figure out how or where i could put a spring that would do that job.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

carpentaper said:


> vanman i think you are right. there is no spring. for the life of me i cannot figure out how or where i could put a spring that would do that job.


 I hope someone will post ya good a pic,,,, but its not a "coil" type spring,,, its a "leaf" spring that fits down in the dog and pulls the pin back after you close the gate


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

ooohhhhhh. i'm sure i can get a replacement for that at the same place i just bought a bunch of other replacement parts. the only sucky thing is they are only open 8 to 4 mon to fri and they are super out of the way. kind of a pain in the ass. but at least i will be one step closer to having it be fully operational. some day.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Don't know if you watched this or not carpentaper, the columbia tools facebook page, they tear a bazooka apart and put it back together. It would be good to watch http://www.facebook.com/ColumbiaTapingTools 

And get a extra dogger clip when you get one, along with a cutting blade, and a cable, and a pin/needle that advances the tape. Their minor things to buy, but they can cost you major down time if one of them fails. Good to keep back ups.

And as chris said in his post (#43), keep it clean. I'm a pig with my tools, (not as bad as 2Bjr) but the godzookie, we take it to the car wash before we use it. Spray down in where the gate is, anywhere inside where the wheel sits, just don't clean the outside of her.One little clump of dry mud can screw you over. Then oil the [email protected] out of it, or spray a ton of WD-40 on the head. Never run it without lubing her up:thumbsup:

The vid shows what parts to replace when you tune them up, good to get to know them so.......


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i actually did buy a pack of blades, some needles and a cable. gave it a good bath the night before and oiled the crap out of it. i'm pretty sure its just the dogger clip now.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Always--ALWAYS-clean your tool. Its like your other tool if it aint clean the ladies aint gonna touch it--- thats jfl-- for real tho learn your zooka inside out.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

*spring*



carpentaper said:


> vanman i think you are right. there is no spring. for the life of me i cannot figure out how or where i could put a spring that would do that job.


 Go on 2 allwall website and look at the breakdown diagram of the taper u will see a little coiled spring that goes in the bit that keeps falling out! It has a small hole in it where the end of the spring goes:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> vanman i think you are right. there is no spring. for the life of me i cannot figure out how or where i could put a spring that would do that job.


 Part number u need is AT130! Take a look at the diagram and u will c where it goes:thumbup:
Hope this helps.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

aaawwww sheeeit! such a little bitty piece and cheap too. that will cost me more in gas than the actual part.so i'm guessing you must put the little rod through the spring and then fit the 90 degree part into the little slot on the drive dog. so simple.now i just have to find the time to go get it. actually i think i might have the time tomorrow:thumbsup:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

upon rereading your post vanman i see the little hole now.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> upon rereading your post vanman i see the little hole now.


 Think about it guys--we would have loved this type of communication 25yrs ago. These threads are a godsend to many!!:thumbsup:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> Think about it guys--we would have loved this type of communication 25yrs ago. These threads are a godsend to many!!:thumbsup:


 
Amen to that :yes:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Have fun carpenter. I'm jealous


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> Have fun carpenter. I'm jealous


Trade you one of my bazooka's for your boat, and maybe if your wife has a older sister...... ill throw in a used roller too:whistling2:


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## muttbucket (Jul 10, 2011)

I bought a tune up kit today,
I needed the brake little barrel roller thingy, that fits on the pin spring that is by the knife,
and under the wheel.
Anyway it has the brake the pin, the SPRING for the dogger,
aling with a bunch of blades and a cable etc.
20 bucks
widely available anywhere TT is sold.
So I was wrong about the cost of a tune up kit,
but
I still believe the drive chain to be a $100 item
I'm glad you are hanging in there Carpentaper
You can and will be a gun man if you want
peace-
Charlie


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> upon rereading your post vanman i see the little hole now.


 Well chief did u get the beast fixed and working ok? Took out my old beast today and it was running sweet as:thumbup: Not bad fot being 18 years old and still working great so keep with that beast and u should have a life long friend:thumbsup:


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## Goodmanatee (Sep 24, 2010)

Keep the faith brother. You'll soon have that thing singing!:thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I think the best thing I ever learned about these tools is take the time to study them. If I have a problem with a zooka, I'll clean it up, bring it in the house and just play with it, look at it, till I figure out what is going on. I had a drive chain that got a bad link in it(like an old rusty bbike chain), it would "stick" and not bend right. I had a problem with a DM tube jamming for no appant reason, by using this method and cutting up about a 1/2 roll of tape in the kitchen, I discovered that something had hit the chute and "bent" one side of it down just abit. It was creating a drag on the tape. Running a small flathead screwdriver up the track fixed that problem.

Stated differantly,,, take the time to figure out WHY it is doing what it is doing, then fix it,,, heck if I can do it,,, you sure can!!!


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i've got the spring for the drive dog but i haven't put it on yet. they changed the design a little so i have to drill a little hole in the drive dog to retrofit the spring. i haven't gotten around to it, no time lately. i don't have any taping projects coming up for at least a month or two so i will just have to wait patiently.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i've got the spring for the drive dog but i haven't put it on yet. they changed the design a little so i have to drill a little hole in the drive dog to retrofit the spring. i haven't gotten around to it, no time lately. i don't have any taping projects coming up for at least a month or two so i will just have to wait patiently.


Are you sure about that :blink:, the drilling aspect, I have admitted many times before I'm not the most mechanical type. But that don't sound right. 

Maybe someone else has had the same problem your talking about so..... wait before you drill........maybe


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i was able to look at a newer blueline model when i was picking up the spring. i took a marker and marked the exact same location where the hole will go in the drive dog. even if i'm wrong the hole is so little and in a spot it would leave the dog completely uneffected.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

hey 2buck. how did you know using reverse psychology on me and telling me to wait would actually get me to fix it? i just drilled the hole and installed the spring. it's working as it should now.:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> hey 2buck. how did you know using reverse psychology on me and telling me to wait would actually get me to fix it? i just drilled the hole and installed the spring. it's working as it should now.:thumbsup:


I use to run crews of young bucks :thumbup:

Glad you got it working:thumbsup:


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> i've got the spring for the drive dog but i haven't put it on yet. they changed the design a little so i have to drill a little hole in the drive dog to retrofit the spring. i haven't gotten around to it, no time lately. i don't have any taping projects coming up for at least a month or two so i will just have to wait patiently.


Yea u will need 2 drill a hole i had 2 do the same with my old gun or u could order a new part!


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i used my bazooka again today for the second time. after the first half hour i was so frustrated i was ready to mesh tape the whole job! but then i must have hit some kind of learning curve because i was starting to get some tapes on. i pushed through it and did not break out the banjo and i did put up probably 400 to 450 feet of tapes in the few hours i was using it. i probably could have hand taped it faster. lots of little tapes and the ceilings were twelve feet high with board layed down. i even succeeded in putting up 3 ceiling corners in only 5 trys. i had to pull two of them down and try again because i had long dry spots because i was holding tube at the wrong angle and pulling tape without the wheel turning. all vertical joints were pretty easy. lots of tapes too short or too long. the hardest part was finding the sweet spot when holding the tape advance/cutter when starting tapes.
by the end of the day i was putting on some tapes back to back without major problems. however my clicker was disengaging and i was having to hold the drive dog and reset it to stop the plunger from falling. I'm not really sure what the problem could be yet.too dirty from too much mud in there maybe? it was working fine at first. it was only the last half hour or so. it did have a couple of small tumbles as i'm still learning how not to leave it. hoping that is not the cause.
i,ve got a bunch of vertical angles to run tomorrow and then i put it away till next time.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

carpentaper said:


> i used my bazooka again today for the second time. after the first half hour i was so frustrated i was ready to mesh tape the whole job! but then i must have hit some kind of learning curve because i was starting to get some tapes on. i pushed through it and did not break out the banjo and i did put up probably 400 to 450 feet of tapes in the few hours i was using it. i probably could have hand taped it faster. lots of little tapes and the ceilings were twelve feet high with board layed down. i even succeeded in putting up 3 ceiling corners in only 5 trys. i had to pull two of them down and try again because i had long dry spots because i was holding tube at the wrong angle and pulling tape without the wheel turning. all vertical joints were pretty easy. lots of tapes too short or too long. the hardest part was finding the sweet spot when holding the tape advance/cutter when starting tapes.
> by the end of the day i was putting on some tapes back to back without major problems. however my clicker was disengaging and i was having to hold the drive dog and reset it to stop the plunger from falling. I'm not really sure what the problem could be yet.too dirty from too much mud in there maybe? it was working fine at first. it was only the last half hour or so. it did have a couple of small tumbles as i'm still learning how not to leave it. hoping that is not the cause.
> i,ve got a bunch of vertical angles to run tomorrow and then i put it away till next time.


 Looks like you are learning easier than I did, when taping solo the taper needs periodic wetting or a quick squirt with a hose because more time is spent wiping the tapes as you go, when you've got someone else wiping behind you then the taper is finished with before it dries out.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

carpentaper said:


> i used my bazooka again today for the second time. after the first half hour i was so frustrated i was ready to mesh tape the whole job! but then i must have hit some kind of learning curve because i was starting to get some tapes on. i pushed through it and did not break out the banjo and i did put up probably 400 to 450 feet of tapes in the few hours i was using it. i probably could have hand taped it faster. lots of little tapes and the ceilings were twelve feet high with board layed down. i even succeeded in putting up 3 ceiling corners in only 5 trys. i had to pull two of them down and try again because i had long dry spots because i was holding tube at the wrong angle and pulling tape without the wheel turning. all vertical joints were pretty easy. lots of tapes too short or too long. the hardest part was finding the sweet spot when holding the tape advance/cutter when starting tapes.
> by the end of the day i was putting on some tapes back to back without major problems. however my clicker was disengaging and i was having to hold the drive dog and reset it to stop the plunger from falling. I'm not really sure what the problem could be yet.too dirty from too much mud in there maybe? it was working fine at first. it was only the last half hour or so. it did have a couple of small tumbles as i'm still learning how not to leave it. hoping that is not the cause.
> i,ve got a bunch of vertical angles to run tomorrow and then i put it away till next time.


 Hey lad under the main wheel the clicker sits! It is adjustable so if the wheel is spinning back push the little handle part towards the gun this should sort ur problem out:thumbsup: If not u could b needing a new clicker roller that will def sort it:thumbup:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm pretty sure i just need a new clicker. it has a very small groove in it but nothing major. i really did not think it was the clicker because you could not spin the wheel backwards if you tried after re-adjusting it. It was not as bad when the tube was not full. all i had to do was quickly pull then push the lever to re-engage the clicker. it really didn't slow me down much. i didn't have to do it after every tape either. this job was just walls so it was not a big problem. i will need to figure it out before i try to tackle any ceilings with it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i'm pretty sure i just need a new clicker. it has a very small groove in it but nothing major. i really did not think it was the clicker because you could not spin the wheel backwards if you tried after re-adjusting it. It was not as bad when the tube was not full. all i had to do was quickly pull then push the lever to re-engage the clicker. it really didn't slow me down much. i didn't have to do it after every tape either. this job was just walls so it was not a big problem. i will need to figure it out before i try to tackle any ceilings with it.


The clicker thing is called the brake, just so you know, and it's one of the part names I actually know. If the groove is kind of deep then........ new one is needed:yes:

And a little tip, If you have ever used a shot gun before, treat the valve on the zookie like a gun site, stare there when judging tapes lengths.:yes:


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## Captain Drywall (Aug 15, 2011)

smisner50s said:


> if you get it ..dont give up they take a bit to master...trust me..and than one day it will all click...you wont just pick it up and start throwing tape on ...there is a learing curve:thumbsup:


and expect to wear some tape.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm sure i will be wearing a few. i was looking at my bazooka today. i think it is the teeth on the big wheel that are a little worn on the side the clicker is on. the other side looks good. is it possible to turn it around? i think that was the problem. some of the teeth were a bit flat. also, when the creaser wheel goes back to it's resting position it looks like it could bump the little lever and loosen the tension on the clicker. i'm wondering if maybe a combination of these things was occuring.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

carpentaper said:


> i'm sure i will be wearing a few. i was looking at my bazooka today. i think it is the teeth on the big wheel that are a little worn on the side the clicker is on. the other side looks good. is it possible to turn it around? i think that was the problem. some of the teeth were a bit flat. also, when the creaser wheel goes back to it's resting position it looks like it could bump the little lever and loosen the tension on the clicker. i'm wondering if maybe a combination of these things was occuring.


Yes you can swap the wheels around, the disassembly starts with unscrewing the small cog (counter clockwise), I think Columbia might have a video on that.


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## Captain Drywall (Aug 15, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> The clicker thing is called the brake, just so you know, and it's one of the part names I actually know. If the groove is kind of deep then........ new one is needed:yes:
> 
> And a little tip, If you have ever used a shot gun before, treat the valve on the zookie like a gun site, stare there when judging tapes lengths.:yes:


The brake is very important, you get to know it intimately. There will come a day when you bend it (on purpose) to get through the day. If there are videos on it watch them.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

carpentaper said:


> i'm sure i will be wearing a few. i was looking at my bazooka today. i think it is the teeth on the big wheel that are a little worn on the side the clicker is on. the other side looks good. is it possible to turn it around? i think that was the problem. some of the teeth were a bit flat. also, when the creaser wheel goes back to it's resting position it looks like it could bump the little lever and loosen the tension on the clicker. i'm wondering if maybe a combination of these things was occuring.


 
I read both of your last two posts. I think you are looking in the wrong area,(sorry if I'm wrong). 

If your clicker is right, then you don't ever have to adjust it(till it wears out). The wheels on the tube will not effect the clicker(in my experience).

I have never seen a creaser wheel that effected the clicker,,, but then again,, I ain't seen everything. 

Sorry if this post is less than helpfull.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

carpentaper said:


> i used my bazooka again today for the second time. after the first half hour i was so frustrated i was ready to mesh tape the whole job! but then i must have hit some kind of learning curve because i was starting to get some tapes on. i pushed through it and did not break out the banjo and i did put up probably 400 to 450 feet of tapes in the few hours i was using it. i probably could have hand taped it faster. lots of little tapes and the ceilings were twelve feet high with board layed down. i even succeeded in putting up 3 ceiling corners in only 5 trys. i had to pull two of them down and try again because i had long dry spots because i was holding tube at the wrong angle and pulling tape without the wheel turning. all vertical joints were pretty easy. lots of tapes too short or too long. the hardest part was finding the sweet spot when holding the tape advance/cutter when starting tapes.
> by the end of the day i was putting on some tapes back to back without major problems. however my clicker was disengaging and i was having to hold the drive dog and reset it to stop the plunger from falling. I'm not really sure what the problem could be yet.too dirty from too much mud in there maybe? it was working fine at first. it was only the last half hour or so. it did have a couple of small tumbles as i'm still learning how not to leave it. hoping that is not the cause.
> i,ve got a bunch of vertical angles to run tomorrow and then i put it away till next time.


 
If you have an adjustable clicker, than perhaps it is drifting, check that out and fix it.

If you have a fixed (non adjustable) clicker, than the problem lies elsewhere,,, like perhaps too thick mud!!!

I know I'm a jerk,,, just trying to help ya figure it out, okay????:thumbsup:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Don't over reach! IMO running ceiling angles is the most difficult thing to do with a taper. For now I would stick to using it to run flats and vertical angles, just until you are more comfortable running it and aren't struggling anymore, then add in the ceiling angles. Baby steps man!

Also, I would either fully service that taper, or have it serviced. They can be frustrating to use when they aren't functioning correctly, even for an experienced user! Save yourself some aggravation. Get it running properly, and then ease into it. No sense in making a job last longer than it needs to because you are struggling with a tool. Use it for a few rooms on each job, eventually it will all click, and you'll be off and going. When you have no issues running flats and vertical angles, give the ceiling angles a go! 

I have been struggling with them at my new job with P.A.Rocker. At my old job we RARELY ever ran them with the taper, and when we did, there was someone on my ass with the corner roller to keep them from pulling. ( We used Zoomaflex for our inside 90s, it's a structural corner tape from the makers of Ultraflex)

good luck and god speed!:thumbsup:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i wish i was a little more competent with posting pictures and this would make more sense.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i wish i was a little more competent with posting pictures and this would make more sense.


Go to a pic, right click on it and then open it with windows paint. where the green arrow is pointing, click that, it will open up a box that will appear

where the red arrow points, change that # to 50 (60 max) click that spot, hit backspace, and type in new # of 50, the # below it will automatically change with it, so don't F with that one

Then where the blue arrow is, click that, a box will appear, click save as, then look for Jpeg image, click that, save it to a file folder ( I make my own file folder on desk top, more easy to find, assuming you know how to do that so....)


Go to DWT, click the attachment button (looks like a paper clip) a box will appear, click browse button, go to folder you saved it to, click on the picture, then push the upload button on the box that appeared on DWT.

A lot of steps but it is easy when you do it once:thumbup:


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## muttbucket (Jul 10, 2011)

sticking with it.

Your tube is out of spec.
Seems funny that little things can stop a productive day,
but the difference between applying much tape and no tape can be as small as 1/16 inch.
Or in the case as 2Buck suggests a small wear mark in the barrel roller of the brake assembly.
Did you replace the pin spring that carries the roller or the brake roller itself?
Then the driver dog spring needs to be perfect.
Then the worn teeth on the various drives and main wheel shouldn't be a problem as you only mention having a hard time in the angles.
Mix your mud till it doesn't form peaks when you pull out the stomper.
Only do butts and flats in that order.
Aim the filler at the spot you want the end of the tape to land and cut.
It's good you aren't jamming the thing.
Butts and flats.
Thinner mutt
spend the $ for a new TT


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