# Poll.. Texas patch vs cutting to studs



## SaskMud (Jun 9, 2010)

Average 2-6 holes in walls about 10 feet long....

Texas patches (dont know if you call it something different) cut the board larger then the hole scor on the back break off to fit then use the fron of the boards extra paper-face as your tape....

or 

Cut to studs....board and tape etc.


Reason I ask we have a 56 suite contract with 2 bathrooms with roughly 10 holes in the and about another 10-15 holes throught the suite elsewhere.. this is in every suite... now I have never done mass amounts of texas patches... whats your thoughts gents....


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

there's other names for them i guess,common one around here is buffalo patch.other names too,can't remember them?????
one draw back i find with them is if using reg mud,you half to wait for them to dry before you coat them.and kind of meant for smaller patches,like receptacle plug,maybe 6x6,8x8 biggest I would go,after that size I would just go with wood or steel stud floaters/backers.you might have different name for that.theres a thread on here some where on that.maybe someone remembers name on thread.if you don't know what I mean or have you confused


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here's the link on this site for what your talking about,you don't state how big your holes are???http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/patch-no-tape-281/


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## PrairrieDogExpress (Jan 29, 2010)

Maybe just get a bunch of 2x4s cut into smaller pieces and use them for backing? Then cut your drywall to fit into the holes? Not entirely sure what you are dealing with but at least then you know it is secure and solid. Plus you can give it a good coat right after.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> Maybe just get a bunch of 2x4s cut into smaller pieces and use them for backing? Then cut your drywall to fit into the holes? Not entirely sure what you are dealing with but at least then you know it is secure and solid. Plus you can give it a good coat right after.


your right on the money there,here's another thread,I did alot of reading on here:yes:.talking about the wood backers etc..http://www.drywalltalk.com/f9/rocksplicer-ezbacker-1148/


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> Maybe just get a bunch of 2x4s cut into smaller pieces and use them for backing? Then cut your drywall to fit into the holes? Not entirely sure what you are dealing with but at least then you know it is secure and solid. Plus you can give it a good coat right after.


:thumbup: I think those "texas patches" (hot patch, california patch, etc.) are more work than they're worth and have flaws, but that's just me. If the holes are all different sizes and odd shaped, you can make a template and make a system of it....run through with template and pencil, mark new openings in unit, then cut them all out, then screw in floating backing, then patch, tape (I won't even mention mesh tape!), coat, etc. You can do 20 patches this way in no time at all. (I do a lot of patching in commercial/residential remodel settings)


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

so do you use mesh or tape on them:whistling2:
DON'T ANSWER THAT:jester:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> so do you use mesh or tape on them:whistling2:
> DON'T ANSWER THAT:jester:


Let's see how this vario sample works out and I'll get back to you! 

Maybe no tape at all! :no:


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

I don't know about the no tape thing, but the vario sure does a nice job of allowing multiple coats in the same day. It doesn't seem to bind up between coats like normal setting compound. I use it thin with fibafuse, then coat thicker to finish.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Yeah, I'm actually looking forward to giving the stuff a shot. If it doesn't drag between coats, that would be perfect....however, it looks like the price is about $1/lb? Is that right? That's a little on the spendy side if I were to use it instead of hot mud. Hamilton smooth set is about $.50/lb here, so the stuff has to be at least twice as good.

Does it dry (not just set) any faster than regular hot muds?


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## Saul_Surfaces (Jan 8, 2010)

the 45 minute vario stays workable the same from minute 1 to 40. then it sets up real quick. Being able to load on coat after coat with no binding is a huge plus for me. I hate trying to put on multiple coats of the traditional setting compounds we have up here in Canada.

I've filled a few one inch holes without tape, and they stand up pretty nice. I pounded on the wall with my fist to test them. Yesterday I fixed the board around an electrical box that had been horribly mis-cut(I wasn't involved in the box installation, only the remediation later). 

To my mind, the Vario is much, much, much better than regular setting compound for multiple coat applications (like patch work). I'm not sure I'd do a whole house with it--maybe a single room. it might be possible to use a layer of regular setting compound over top of a first coat of vario to save some money (assuming you're using tape, otherwise a second coat of vario is likely necessary). I haven't tried this, but if the setting agents work different, it might work out ok.

by the time you get vario shipped, it might well ring in over $1/lb. Depending on your application though, it's likely worth it. I didn't notice it drying any faster, but it doesn't seem to swell like regular setting compound. If you put a pretty second coat over an ugly first coat, it stays pretty shaped when it dries. That's a plus.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I think I'll have to bring it with me downtown tomorrow (restaurant remodel with gobs of patches) and find a place to play with it. I'll make sure to find the vario thread and post my experience when the time comes....and thanks for the input!


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## grid ninja (Mar 21, 2010)

*hot patch*

this is s grate patch. you can patch any size rock with 5/8 1/2 3/8 1/4 stay away from stud area put plenty of mud behind paper, and thin i bed right over top never have no trouble. fast and drys really strong.:donatello:


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

Hey Slim, I'd just get some 1-5/8" studs or track to use as backing. Then you can cut it to length with snips quickly and easily. Cali patches have too many potential problems so I rarely use them.

Give me a ring if you ever need help man, even for a day. And give me a ring if you need a couple days worth of work!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Checkers said:


> Hey Slim, I'd just get some 1-5/8" studs or track to use as backing. Then you can cut it to length with snips quickly and easily. Cali patches have too many potential problems so I rarely use them.
> 
> Give me a ring if you ever need help man, even for a day. And give me a ring if you need a couple days worth of work!



Hey Checkers, thanks for the offers! I will definitely keep you in mind!

I prefer wood for patching, at least 3/4" ply if not 2x material, then I don't have to worry about where I'm holding it while getting the first couple of screws to grab on. I suppose it depends on the job though....whatever's laying around works best , or should I say, whatever's FREE works best? No no, whatever's free and doesn't take too much effort.....that IS best.


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

****, I thought Slim was the OP.
Sask, buy a pack of these and let us know how they work!
http://www.all-wall.com/New-Items/drywall-repair-clips


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

California patch is what I call them.

I just threw in a couple L-shaped 1/2" versions of them - only board GC could find from another nearby site - around a couple larger boxes where 5/8" board was used for wall. I prefer a flush set between the 2, and not have to build up with mud.

Used Vario to cement the pieces in. From what I've seen of Vario so far with the things I've tried it on, I'm suspecting they won't be letting go too easily.

One coated them out a couple hours after installing. No drying issues that I could tell with the Vario.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

JustMe said:


> California patch is what I call them.
> 
> I just threw in a couple L-shaped 1/2" versions of them - only board GC could find from another nearby site - around a couple larger boxes where 5/8" board was used for wall. I prefer a flush set between the 2, and not have to build up with mud.
> 
> ...


Did you use it over paint? If so, how did it behave on the painted surface?


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> Did you use it over paint? If so, how did it behave on the painted surface?


Those walls weren't painted yet.

I did try Vario on some walls that were painted, when I tried to see if it might help control some butt joint cracking in some new walls on another job. The thin coat of Vario I'd put on seemed to work fine (I v'd the actual joints, though). There weren't any pin holes when I coated over the 1st Vario coat I'd put on, using all-purpose mud for the 2nd coat.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Those walls weren't painted yet.
> 
> I did try Vario on some walls that were painted, when I tried to see if it might help control some butt joint cracking in some new walls on another job. The thin coat of Vario I'd put on seemed to work fine (I v'd the actual joints, though). There weren't any pin holes when I coated over the 1st Vario coat I'd put on, using all-purpose mud for the 2nd coat.


I would say that no pinholes or bubbling would definitely make the stuff worth the price then...I really need to get my sample out into the field and play with it.


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