# Straitflex pulling away in center of off angle



## goldie (May 9, 2014)

Hi all,
Long time taper (30 years). Just got a call from GC telling me the straitflex in an 50 foot off angle is pulling away in center of angle creating two creases rather than the single staight line. Sounds to me like the trusses are moving. I know taping mud was used as I did it. Its orange peel and going to be a *itch to hide repairing. The off angle 5 feet from it at outside wall is fine. Any ideas would be helpful.
Thanks.....goldie


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Should have used No-Coat Or Level line .


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Replacing it with something like Magic Bead comes to mind: http://www.trim-tex.com/products/dr.../expansion-beads/magic-corner-expansion-bead/


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Replacing it with something like Magic Bead comes to mind: http://www.trim-tex.com/products/dr.../expansion-beads/magic-corner-expansion-bead/


You ever used that stuff JM?


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> You ever used that stuff JM?


 Not much, since we don't really find a need for it in commercial. Wall expansion joints we use a fair amount of, though.

I used Magic Bead in one house that I can recall - didn't really like how it installed, but the roof design needed it, I was told. A design that liked to crack.

Last house I helped with, all the ceiling off angles were done with it. 6 runs, 3 of them 30+ feet. Guy who was putting it on knew how to do it well - lots of practice.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

think your right tell hime if you fix it and its not your fault he has to pay you, meaning cut and look under to show mud to GEE SEE:jester:


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## gopherstateguy (Apr 8, 2012)

Bazooka Joe is right. We are not liable for poor framing practices. I routinely see trusses covered in ice and snow before being installed during winter months. What do you think happens with those when they eventually thaw and dry? I have a couple of things I do to cover my ass(but more so the builders/framers). I round long gradual ceiling to ceiling off angles by prefilling, taping, and coating with a rubber coving tool. Not only does this avoid blowouts of composite angle products but it is also easier to hide poorly set trusses. If the builder insists on crisp angles, set your composite angle tape slightly hollow and tape the edges to allow for coating. This method is not 100% foolproof under extreme movement but it at least gives you a fighting chance. Also have your hangers not put nails/screws 8-10" from the angle and let the edges of the sheets float.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

gopherstateguy said:


> Also have your hangers not put nails/screws 8-10" from the angle and let the edges of the sheets float.


If the boards not hung like this I don't guarantee my work...:yes:


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

This sound like the exact reason a mate of mine who is a drywall finisher by trade hear started only hanging gets paid $2.60 per m2 to hang hangs 600 m2 per day with 2 labourers paying them $120 a day work that out he clears $1200 a day and guess what NO BLOODY CALL BACKS us finishers get shafted by issues if my discs in my back where better i would only hang


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## Aussiecontractor (Oct 6, 2014)

Yer use magic bead I use it quiet a bit it's good **** 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## goldie (May 9, 2014)

*Pics of Straitflex pulling*

Hi all,
Thanks for all the replies. I have a pic which I'm going to try to attach. I want to add that AP mud was used as well as the Straitflex glue. GC thinks that the huge swings in temps we have had are the cause and is adamant that the framing has not moved as its nailed properly. Its gone from mid 90* during the day to almost freezing at night recently and that coincides which the problem surfacing........goldie


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

goldie said:


> GC thinks that the huge swings in temps we have had are the cause and is adamant that the framing has not moved as its nailed properly. Its gone from mid 90* during the day to almost freezing at night recently and that coincides which the problem surfacing........goldie


Framing can be nailed properly and still move and shrink, besides nailing properly was the wood cut to proper lengths so that it fits tight is another question to ask or be concerned about in causing issues with after the fact movement. 

If this GC believes its the swings in temperatures maybe the house is not insulated proper. 

Remember one thing being a taper your going to get blamed 99.9 % of the time for all mud or products not staying in place used to do your job but 99.9% of the time it will be the fault of others. Beside you never even made the mud if it comes down to faulting out to this.....

I charge extra for coming back to satisfy the customer to do anything that is beyond my control including and not limited to what one thinks is the standard in level of finish as being a non professional and are determining that it should be better then the acceptable standard set by manufactures and trade practices in our industry. There the boss and if they want it done there way, no problem, but there going to pay for it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I'm working on a home now ..tract house . lot 3 out of 20 lots .I did all 20 homes all with at least one vault.. some had two vaults . I did all these homes in a period of 6 years. I used No-Coat 450 And have never been back to any of these homes for off angle repair . Or any repairs !!

All homes were factory truss 2' oc ! JS!!:whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

moore said:


> I'm working on a home now ..tract house . lot 3 out of 20 lots .I did all 20 homes all with at least one vault.. some had two vaults . I did all these homes in a period of 6 years. I used No-Coat 450 And have never been back to any of these homes for off angle repair . Or any repairs !!
> 
> All homes were factory truss 2' oc ! JS!!:whistling2:


BTW...Some of those homes were done at 10 below zero weather . [last December]


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## jackleg (Jan 22, 2008)

moore, what mud did you use?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

jackleg said:


> moore, what mud did you use?


All purpose.


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## jackleg (Jan 22, 2008)

moore, thanks for reply... why not use a hot mud for taping?


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

jackleg said:


> moore, thanks for reply... why not use a hot mud for taping?


Not productive in use.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

jackleg said:


> moore, thanks for reply... why not use a hot mud for taping?


I do tape with hot mud . Seams and butts . But I won't apply any off angle vinyl tapes with hot mud. Or coat over them with it. (Too brittle) I like to use any off angle tape that has a paper flange. Same with corner beads. I ain't saying my way s the right way!!!!! I have found that hot mud has a great bond to the board itself but bonds poorly to vinyl ..plastic..and metal.


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## embella plaster (Sep 21, 2013)

True as you would know 90% of contractors i know are %100 hot mud where i will base a trim tex vinyl with hot mud but second and top with all purpose as i find 2 cots with hot mud is to much for the vinyl and starts leaving chunks on the plastic second coat on vinyl all purpose is the bees knees


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

embella plaster said:


> True as you would know 90% of contractors i know are %100 hot mud where i will base a trim tex vinyl with hot mud but second and top with all purpose as i find 2 cots with hot mud is to much for the vinyl and starts leaving chunks on the plastic second coat on vinyl all purpose is the bees knees


I use very little vinyl almost none


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