# my approach !



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Start off with a pre-fill then apply some pieces of 3.25 to level out [kinda!]
Then run the 4.25 over that. The last house was so bad I had to cove all the off angles..I hate doing that!!!! 
If there's a better faster way to straighten out this crap PLEASE enlighten me!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

give me a sec.


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## Makitaboy (Jun 8, 2013)

Long feather edge and hot mud......

And tell the h/o no guarantees!

If money was no object, take the drywall down and strap it.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

That's pretty awful. Not my favourite but looks like a bat knife would be the easiest fix.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Sorry but I would say call me back when they've fixed it.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

I would do it one of two ways. One way would be to snap a line and then pull out using a feather edger, and setting compound before applying No Coat like Makitaboy said. The second way would be to just use Strait Flex X-Crack before hanging the rock(my personal choice). http://straitflex.com/downloads/literature/X_Crack_Brochure_WEB.pdf


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## harvv (Jul 21, 2012)

Sorry for the noobness, but what exactly is a feather edger?


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Cove it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Cove it.


I did that on the last one. too much work.And it really didn't straighten out anything ..Just softened up the cluster a bit!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Sorry but I would say call me back when they've fixed it.


Low end. high production. :thumbsup:


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## Mr.Brightstar (Dec 2, 2011)

Feather edge then. 

http://youtu.be/LRhLxv6y0tY


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Feather edge then.
> 
> http://youtu.be/LRhLxv6y0tY


Dude.. I'm drywall !


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

harvv said:


> Sorry for the noobness, but what exactly is a feather edger?


http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Feather-Edge-Darbies/Drywall-Darby.html


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## Makitaboy (Jun 8, 2013)

moore said:


> Dude.. I'm drywall !


Nope, your just a good plaster sent to the future who doesn't know it. A drywaller would just run it and forget it!


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## keke (Mar 7, 2012)

I know that this angle give us a lot of pain but it's easy to fix it up if you prefill like in Mr Brightstar's video and after that rum trim-tex obtuse internal :thumbsupUsually I do that when the mud is still wet)


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

It would depend on how much I'm getting paid. If I'm going to make good money then I would try to straighten it out... If they are cheap then they will get cheap.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> It would depend on how much I'm getting paid. If I'm going to make good money then I would try to straighten it out... If they are cheap then they will get cheap.


My name's on It ,,So I will straighten it out . But after 10 years of BS I may just hand this guy over to you and yours..He'll get It done for much less$$ And It will teach him a good lesson.:thumbsup:


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

Here's some good framers


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

It took some work but I fix there crap work


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

Fix as usual


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## Makitaboy (Jun 8, 2013)

Newagestucco said:


> Here's some good framers


Never thought to do that.... I've done it old school with a line level as a guide, but that's slick


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## harvv (Jul 21, 2012)

impressive


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

losin the screw up?


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> My name's on It ,,So I will straighten it out . But after 10 years of BS I may just hand this guy over to you and yours..He'll get It done for much less$$ And It will teach him a good lesson.:thumbsup:


I would bet that we are cheap compared to your market but we are on the high side for ours really. We have it in our proposal that framing is to be level, plumb, and straight before hanging of rock. whenever we run into a problem with bad framing we point that out and then tell them how much it will be to fix it. It is not the Drywaller's responsibility to fix bad framing to that extent.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

ya know Moe we spend hours maybe days over a year repairing and no appreciation


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I would bet that we are cheap compared to your market but we are on the high side for ours really. We have it in our proposal that framing is to be level, plumb, and straight before hanging of rock. whenever we run into a problem with bad framing we point that out and then tell them how much it will be to fix it. It is not the Drywaller's responsibility to fix bad framing to that extent.


You should have a talk with your trim and floor guys.:whistling2:

I rarely do touch up to the extent you speak of..


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

Are you boarding these jobs Moore? Or just taping them?
If your guys are boarding them, hook them up with some Trim-Tex vault backing angle.
http://trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=showproduct&id=297

Board one side first, keep it straight, then scab in a piece of vault backing to screw your next side too. Just create your own line. Dont even screw to the peak.
That's what we've started doing, we let our peaks float, their tied together with the vault backing angle. Helps with any movement as well.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Are you boarding these jobs Moore? Or just taping them?
> If your guys are boarding them, hook them up with some Trim-Tex vault backing angle.
> http://trim-tex.com/product_catalog.php?cat_display=showproduct&id=297
> 
> ...


I sub the hanging on most of them..Sometimes a d/c friend of mine will call looking for work so him and I will hang together ...I'll check that out. thanks. It's not the framers..The homes are square...The factory trusses are a joke! The lumber they send these guys are only worthy for the burn pile ...The framing crew are using what the g/c is buying...You get my drift? I don't blame the framers.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

moore said:


> I sub the hanging on most of them..Sometimes a d/c friend of mine will call looking for work so him and I will hang together ...I'll check that out. thanks. It's not the framers..The homes are square...The factory trusses are a joke! The lumber they send these guys are only worthy for the burn pile ...The framing crew are using what the g/c is buying...You get my drift? I don't blame the framers.


But, as per your earlier post, YOU are putting YOUR name on the job, as are THEY! If the material showing up is that bad that you cannot properly do your job, then it should be returned! OR, you should be compensated appropriately to fix said shoddy material, and back charge the manufacturer. SH!T runs downhill, but every now and then, the pipes clog up, if you get my drift!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

fr8train said:


> But, as per your earlier post, YOU are putting YOUR name on the job, as are THEY! If the material showing up is that bad that you cannot properly do your job, then it should be returned! OR, you should be compensated appropriately to fix said shoddy material, and back charge the manufacturer. SH!T runs downhill, but every now and then, the pipes clog up, if you get my drift!


I charge for It! The g/c told me 1 year ago ''I can find someone cheaper'' So the the very next house I went UP on my price!
He didn't like it..but i'm still doing his houses.

the framers are scared to send back the bad lumber..They don't want to piss off the G/C. They put up what is sent to the site. 
I'm in a little war here over the wallboard..I don't want to get into another one with the lumber mill!
Come spring my price will go up again...[just a little] If he drops me. I don't care.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

It came out Ok! It's eye level!:whistling2:


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

moore said:


> It came out Ok! It's eye level!:whistling2:


Magic corner?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

mld said:


> Magic corner?


 no-coat 4.50 after lots of pre-fill. I put no-coat 3.25 on the low spots then the 4.50 .


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Looks good Moore. And yes we get the sh!t end of the stick here with the trim guys and other trades. What is most irritating is that the builders think when the plumber or sparky cuts a bunch of holes that we are supposed to fix them for free :blink:. My mindset lately is to just bill them no matter if they pay or not. If they drop us then I will take them to court for all the unpaid patches . My dad and I pointed up a house last week where they had some holes kicked in the walls and some stuff cut out. The builder had the nerve to ask if we can work that into the point-up cost . I politely said no and said we would take it easy on him. Literally took me 2 hours to hang and finish out about 7 patches. Charged him $350 lol. Best part is the painters had our point-up and patches sanded by the next morning! Good day in my book.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Looks good Moore. And yes we get the sh!t end of the stick here with the trim guys and other trades. What is most irritating is that the builders think when the plumber or sparky cuts a bunch of holes that we are supposed to fix them for free :blink:. My mindset lately is to just bill them no matter if they pay or not. If they drop us then I will take them to court for all the unpaid patches . My dad and I pointed up a house last week where they had some holes kicked in the walls and some stuff cut out. The builder had the nerve to ask if we can work that into the point-up cost . I politely said no and said we would take it easy on him. Literally took me 2 hours to hang and finish out about 7 patches. Charged him $350 lol. Best part is the painters had our point-up and patches sanded by the next morning! Good day in my book.


so should not disco boots who kiked holes in the wall pick up the bill


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> so should not disco boots who kiked holes in the wall pick up the bill


Bill the builder, if he knows who's responsible he can pass it on to them. The job is HIS responsibility after all.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Looks good Moore. And yes we get the sh!t end of the stick here with the trim guys and other trades. What is most irritating is that the builders think when the plumber or sparky cuts a bunch of holes that we are supposed to fix them for free :blink:. My mindset lately is to just bill them no matter if they pay or not. If they drop us then I will take them to court for all the unpaid patches . My dad and I pointed up a house last week where they had some holes kicked in the walls and some stuff cut out. The builder had the nerve to ask if we can work that into the point-up cost . I politely said no and said we would take it easy on him. Literally took me 2 hours to hang and finish out about 7 patches. Charged him $350 lol. Best part is the painters had our point-up and patches sanded by the next morning! Good day in my book.


Hey!!! You work for some of the same people I work for!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> so should not disco boots who kiked holes in the wall pick up the bill


That's touchy....Right or wrong ..It's best to keep the peace with the other trades unless It's something of great damage .
If I do the repair In one trip ..I don't charge And TRY not to bitch about It.:whistling2:


I had a speck house a year ago..The home was sold soon after it broke ground . The H/O was a pain Everyone was raising a fuss about this guy.but I got along with him just great .. Right up till the the day I finished up. Then two weeks later the G/C calls me and asked if I could do some repairs In the kitchen of this speck...Turns out The H/O told the cabinet man he didn't want a back splash applied due to later when he could afford it he wanted to apply a tile back splash.. The cabinet man forgot this request And when the H/O [wanna be g/c] called him bitchin about his mistake The pissed off cabinet man runs over to the home and rips the back splash off the wall! 
Do I half to tell you Boys what I saw when I walked in????

In the cabinet man's defense ...He did the same in this home as he's done in the last 100 specks...Simple mistake! yes. [he forgot the h/o's request ] 

It took me two days to fix that mucked up mess ..When the h/o walked in bitchin about the cabinet man ..I stopped him quick! I said ..If you wanted tile later on you could have just applied a 1/4'' backer over the back splash and put the tile over that There was no need for all this drama!:furious: 

All the G/C...H/O....and cabinet man had to do was use a little......just....a little.... common sense!!!!



Did I charge for this call back? You Goddamn right!!!:thumbup:


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

I know there are some tools out there that call themselves GCs. Its really up to each subcontractor to inspect and return sub par materials. i know most trades just want to get it done but a little extra time spent goes along way. just as an example if the sheetrock come in of the truck busted. I would expect the rockers to either cut it up for closets or return it. Same way with the tile and floor guys. Its normal to order 15% to 20% more product knowing theres gonna be some waste. Lumber should be treated the same way. If delivered expect alot of waste. best bet is to go and get it yourself. i know it takes some time but your name is on it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

boco said:


> I know there are some tools out there that call themselves GCs. Its really up to each subcontractor to inspect and return sub par materials. i know most trades just want to get it done but a little extra time spent goes along way. just as an example if the sheetrock come in of the truck busted. I would expect the rockers to either cut it up for closets or return it. Same way with the tile and floor guys. Its normal to order 15% to 20% more product knowing theres gonna be some waste. Lumber should be treated the same way. If delivered expect alot of waste. best bet is to go and get it yourself. i know it takes some time but your name is on it.


I agree 100%


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

Not sure how you fixed it but it looks good. I am guessing a chalk box, 2 bags of durabond and lots of patience.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

boco said:


> lots of patience.


Lot's of cursing! Swore I would never do another!!!!




I've done three more since! :whistling2:


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## Mudbronco (Dec 28, 2010)

We have our installers put Strait-Flex "X" crack in angle prior to drywall installation. Keeps it straight and is rigid enough to skip a truss or stud if crooked. Tape with Mid-Flex and you will not have any issues. Been using for over eight years now in bonus rooms and peak vaults.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Can always put the crease where it's supposed to go and pack a crap ton of mud behind it.


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