# columbia boxes



## zack 02 (Aug 27, 2010)

just bought a 12 inch columbia box. I s there anybody out there that only uses a 12 inch columbia and what settings do you use for your flats


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Use a 10 then a 12----or you can try 7 then 12 but good luck with that approach


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## zack 02 (Aug 27, 2010)

what would be the problem with only using a 12 besides going through more mudd. I was taught to use a 12 twice then scim by hand


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

your 12" box is your skimming device,load with a ten,skim with the 12,thats why they make you so much money ,no more skimming by hand,you half to experiment with the numbers ,hint ...with the 12" ,your not running it wide open


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I use a col 8" fat-boy to bed and a col 10" fat-boy to skim with. Flats

I use the 8 to run both sides of the butts with after tapeing and the ten to run both sides of the butts with for the second coat. I then run the butts with a 12 (by hand to skim em out). Disclaimer: if its a BAD butt, you have to run it however many times you have to to fix it

I would never, ever,ever bother to run a 12 box for any reason. JMO

I have a friend that runs a 12" col fat-boy,,,lol,,, I pray for him,, man that is just WAY TOO HEAVY.


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## zack 02 (Aug 27, 2010)

If your 12 is strictly a scimming device why is there 5 settings?


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

The recession is only 2 and a half inches wide. So a flat is only five inches... Wouldn't you think a 7 inch or an 8 inch on the first time over the flats is wide enough? And then two inches wider should be enough to cover the feathered edge. That's my two cents worth.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

zack 02 said:


> If your 12 is strictly a scimming device why is there 5 settings?


Butt joints and not all flats are created equally...


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

And the mud you use might shrink more than the mud I use. You might run your mud thinner than I do and it might shrink more.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> The recession is only 2 and a half inches wide. So a flat is only five inches... Wouldn't you think a 7 inch or an 8 inch on the first time over the flats is wide enough? And then two inches wider should be enough to cover the feathered edge. That's my two cents worth.


Thats why we call em "flats" they supposed to be FLAT when we git em done,,,LOL. Not horizontal butt joints


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## zack 02 (Aug 27, 2010)

I would think the wider you feather the better


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Not every box is created equally. I might own two boxes from the same company (I do) and one needs to be run on two for the first coat over the tape and the other one needs to be run on one. And if you let your box run too long and the blade gets worn, you can run it a little fat until you have time to put a new blade in. (not a good idea)


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

zack 02 said:


> I would think the wider you feather the better


You would be wrong then. 

Once the flat is FLAT,, anything else is an excess.

If you really believed that, you would allready be running the entire wall in a skim coat.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Not necessarily, the wider the better. Like the Capt said we aren't running horizontal butts here.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Say Capt, would ya think we have a rookie here phishing for info?


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## zack 02 (Aug 27, 2010)

So you must check every joint and a just your settings on each joint. I know on some wood framing it is so crowned that it really doesn't matter there is no fixing exspecially if on long wall


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> Say Capt, would ya think we have a rookie here phishing for info?


Tim, you win a cookie !!!!!:thumbup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Chocolate chip, I hope!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

zack 02 said:


> If your 12 is strictly a scimming device why is there 5 settings?


wtf ,guess I'm so wrong.....did you read any of the threads on boxes


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

zack 02 said:


> what would be the problem with only using a 12 besides going through more mudd. I was taught to use a 12 twice then scim by hand


We have all been taught to finish in different manners, but with one ending result and that is a very satisfactory finish.
but with all the experience in this trade comes new lessons to learn or helpful tips to make things easier. 
my personal opinion if you use a 12" box twice than your building edges that will be harder to sand unless skimmed by hand which is extra work if you are using tools.
The purpose of 3 tool sizes, which is the 1st coat with a 7" or 8" box (i set the dial at 1) for a bevel fill coat that should completely cover the tape without excessive buildup. 
the next coat would be with a 10" box (i set the dial at 3) that would add alittle more fill with the extra 2 inch box size to skim over the smaller box edges and this coat normally uses about 1/2 the compound as the first coat.
The third coat will be applied with a 12" box (i set the dial at 4) that is set mainly for skimming only. this will show any low areas that may need alittle more fill but skimming all edges and possible pitting to a tight and easy sand finish.

the butt joints i run my 1st coat box wide open for total fill but with running the box on the outside of both sides of the tape line and pulling mud by hand tight down the center of tape which will help cover the tape but being pulled tight in the center will keep out any crowning.
the second coat with a 10 box in the same manner as the first coat.
the third coat i use a 12 box but with the dial on 3 and pulling a box straight up the center of the joint and than boxed on each side of it to give a 30" to 36" wide buttjoint, which i hand skim down the edges that meet the center boxed edges. this all results in a very level and slick finish for easy sanding and of course this is based on that there isn't ecessive offset in the joint which of course would need extra attention.

I am sorry I type alot, but it may be from to much coffee,lol or just enjoying trying to help.

Bill


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Bill, good job! :thumbup: You explained the three boxes very well!


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

proficient Mudder said:


> We have all been taught to finish in different manners, but with one ending result and that is a very satisfactory finish.
> but with all the experience in this trade comes new lessons to learn or helpful tips to make things easier.
> my personal opinion if you use a 12" box twice than your building edges that will be harder to sand unless skimmed by hand which is extra work if you are using tools.
> The purpose of 3 tool sizes, which is the 1st coat with a 7" or 8" box (i set the dial at 1) for a bevel fill coat that should completely cover the tape without excessive buildup.
> ...



:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

no thank god you were willing to do that much typing,I was this too much typing to explain this so ,,,,,,


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## ColumbiaTechSupport (Aug 13, 2010)

proficient Mudder said:


> We have all been taught to finish in different manners, but with one ending result and that is a very satisfactory finish.
> but with all the experience in this trade comes new lessons to learn or helpful tips to make things easier.
> my personal opinion if you use a 12" box twice than your building edges that will be harder to sand unless skimmed by hand which is extra work if you are using tools.
> The purpose of 3 tool sizes, which is the 1st coat with a 7" or 8" box (i set the dial at 1) for a bevel fill coat that should completely cover the tape without excessive buildup.
> ...


:thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I kinda agree, cept I pull the first coat on flats with a 8" wide open, and the second coat with a 10 box on 3. 

Butts, I pull dbl'd with an 8(either side of tape), dbl'ed with a 10(either side of tape), then a 10 right down the middle.

Works for me fine. However, I am not into overkill, all I am looking for is a flat job that once its painted, needs no point-up.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

10" flat's on #3 or #4 depending on board/framing quality, 12" on #5. and a fat boy 12" isn't that heavy.


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## ColumbiaTechSupport (Aug 13, 2010)

McDusty said:


> 10" flat's on #3 or #4 depending on board/framing quality, 12" on #5. and a fat boy 12" isn't that heavy.


You'd be surprised at how many we sell, it took a while for guys to get used to the idea but now we sell close to as many 12's to 10" fat-boys


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

McDusty said:


> 10" flat's on #3 or #4 depending on board/framing quality, 12" on #5. and a fat boy 12" isn't that heavy.


same here,except I double run 10"box while it's still wet,first on #4,then on #3,some guys call this chasing behind the box,in the days of old,when the muds were bad,one guy would run the 10" while a guy chased with a wiping knife to pull out the porosity(wall eyes).made no sense to me,knife made ripples in the flat,why not just run box over it again,so I still do that to this day,now with these better muds,10" looks like glass when I'm done.
what I don't see is 7or 8 inch,then 10",then 12",too time consuming ,was on a job once (20 years ago in chatham) there was a hand taper using a 10" curve trowel,then skimmed with a flat.he was beating me on the flats (only)his work looked like box work,so I dropped that 7" real fast,plus with these better muds...
what does surprise me is 8" then10"guess it will work if you think about it,but from what I read on how you do butts sounds like too many steps.we go double 10,then later on in day even if 10 is still wet we run a 10"curve trowel down middle of butt.next day 12"on #3 doubled out again,skimmed out on textured ceilings(#5)now ceiling butts done,next day skim wall butts by hand,done
I know in my neck of the woods everyone goes 10 then 12,Know the company I work for would say no to 8 then 10,what I don't like is 12" on sprayed/textured ceilings,but some times you do things just to shut them up.you do get your own creative control,but when their running 50 tapers and they are the ones who over see every call back,they do see what applied methods of taping are working so......
but I am going to run 8 then 10 by the big Boss,see if he flips out ...that's always fun:yes:


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

8 & 10 would certainly not be allowed in my neck of the woods.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

The reason most flip over a 8 and 10 is simply because they are used to seeing a 10 and 12.

Flat is flat and the bevel is less than 6" wide.

Does not really matter to me what you run, if your happy, I'm tickled. As for me, I don't care to use more mud or effort than it takes to git-R-done.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

If the flat is five inches wide, why do you need to go out 12 inches? You should be able to make the flat----flat going out just five inches----right? Well no. I go out ten unless smooth, then I go one more with a 12. Works for me. And I don't leave if there are any flats or butts showing.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> If the flat is five inches wide, why do you need to go out 12 inches? You should be able to make the flat----flat going out just five inches----right? Well no. I go out ten unless smooth, then I go one more with a 12. Works for me. And I don't leave if there are any flats or butts showing.


Neither do I, what has that got to do with running it half-way up the wall?


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Not sure. Some guys seem to think it's better if the flat is twelve inches wide and the butts are twenty four inches wide. If they are flat, who cares what size box I use? The general sure isn't gonna tell me. Not gonna let the homeowner tell me, either.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> Not sure. Some guys seem to think it's better if the flat is twelve inches wide and the butts are twenty four inches wide. If they are flat, who cares what size box I use? The general sure isn't gonna tell me. Not gonna let the homeowner tell me, either.


The way I find it . People are used to "seeing" wide joints, and they think if you don't run em wide well then you are screwing them. Thats perception, it has nothing to do with the truth, that being that flat is flat, period.

I guess I get away with it cause I'm so dern old they probbly think that "shurley he must know what he's doing" I guess I got em fooled,, huh??:thumbsup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

You and me, both. Think we are in the same boat.


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## PrairrieDogExpress (Jan 29, 2010)

I love my 12" Fat Boy. Very few trips to the pump. I would never ever use a 10" for finish. JMO


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## sean B (Sep 9, 2010)

i use a 8-10 on flats. and wall butts i use only a 10 splitting the butt on top coat then tripling it on skim after filling the center by hand. ill break out a 12 and split ceiling butts then triple em on the second coat after filling the center by hand on a smooth ceiling. textured ceilings get a 10 split then tripled.

turns out nice

ive never used a 12 on a flat, if i get one that bad ill run it by hand.

ive seen people use 12s on flats and after seeing me do a 8-10 they have switched over reason being wtf wants to push a 12 all day for no reason, makes no sense, overkill.


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## sean B (Sep 9, 2010)

Tim0282 said:


> You and me, both. Think we are in the same boat.


 where are you at in iowa? im in bettendorf


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

if your finishing stand-ups, you'll see why you got to bust the flats out with a 10 and finish them with a 12. Sometimes the joints don't line up perfectly, and if you put a flat edge on the wall you will notice you need to bust them out. I used to do 10" on #3 then 12" on #4, but lately been having shrinking problems. I got a crew that does a 10" set on dial #0, then they sand it when dry and set a 12" on number 2" and works perfectly. This is for Columbia and Tape Tech boxes.


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## tricounty dwall (Apr 29, 2010)

i agree with everyone here but zach. They cal if a flat for a reason. Because u can make it flat. If u use a 12 twice u are building up the edges . And id hate to be your sander. U run a 8, or 10 on bed coat and then skim wider. Than way u kill out your edges. U are overworking yourself. But capt. i think ur right. I think we got us a rookie


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## redgy85 (Sep 19, 2010)

*Geday*

Here in Australia we use mainly 10 & 12 inch boxes due to the Aust standards or building code require the joints to be finished after sanding, the joint must be finished not less then 10 inches wide. So the 10" cannot be used for top coat.:blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

redgy85 said:


> Here in Australia we use mainly 10 & 12 inch boxes due to the Aust standards or building code require the joints to be finished after sanding, the joint must be finished not less then 10 inches wide. So the 10" cannot be used for top coat.:blink:


Thats a prime example of "someone,,,,IE the GOV" telling YOU how to do the job.

Like they really know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How come a government or a union can't stretch a tape over a flat and SEE that it's only 5 1/2" wide ??????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Thats a prime example of "someone,,,,IE the GOV" telling YOU how to do the job.
> 
> Like they really know !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> How come a government or a union can't stretch a tape over a flat and SEE that it's only 5 1/2" wide ??????


have a bad day,did rush Limbaugh become a democrat:jester:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> have a bad day,did rush Limbaugh become a democrat:jester:


 Actually I had a great day,,, what has that to do with his GOVERNMENT making him run a flat with a 12?????

Do you think that flats HAVE to be run with a 12???? are you a government person??? or perhaps a union offical????

A flat needs to be run FLAT, period. 

Perhaps since you obviously don't like RUSH, you can explain to me why a 5 1/2" flat needs to be run with a 12" box??????

hummmmmmmm??????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I do like rush,hannity,bill,mark levin etc.to each his own in their ways of taping.and yes I am in a union,the type the mark levin speaks of,not what you guys have got now.what I don't like of unions ,is why do government workers need them.
and just cause there's a bevel,dosen't mean it will automatically hide your joint,not a newbie here.maygy85 could be


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> I do like rush,hannity,bill,mark levin etc.to each his own in their ways of taping.and yes I am in a union,the type the mark levin speaks of,not what you guys have got now.what I don't like of unions ,is why do government workers need them.
> and just cause there's a bevel,dosen't mean it will automatically hide your joint,not a newbie here.maygy85 could be


Fair nuff,,, so why do you feel that a bevel needs a 12" knife or box to make it flat?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

because the government tells us we half to:jester:
-if you were to go back and read some of the post,I saw a trend where canucks finished with a 12",you guys seemed to finish with a 10,if you remember,I said a 8 and 10 would work
but reasons why,guess we were taught that way
i see the stuff a 12 will fill,It's still finding bad spots
most of us work for big companies up here ,thats what they want,so a boss is a boss,that's capitalism
plus the big companies do the call backs,they see what works,want to fight with them,you go back and fix it for free
dont get me wrong,when you have a good name,you can do things how ever you want.
plus wood not as square/level
faster to do butts
plus natural perception with people in general(ho,gc,etc)that bigger is better,have had people complain 12" not big enough,so aim to plz
hell some places we go 10,12 then skim by hand,gives the builders a boner ............perception part of the game


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> because the government tells us we half to:jester:
> -if you were to go back and read some of the post,I saw a trend where canucks finished with a 12",you guys seemed to finish with a 10,if you remember,I said a 8 and 10 would work
> but reasons why,guess we were taught that way
> i see the stuff a 12 will fill,It's still finding bad spots
> ...


 I understand all that, and I agree that if thats what they want, thats what I'll give em. Heck I can skim with a 20" trowel, if thats what it takes. Thats politics. I thought we were talking about what was needed, not what we have to do to get paid,,,,,, my mistake. :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

should re read my post ,politics was not the only reason I stated 
out of curiosity ,how wide do you coat your bead.
here material supplied,and the material I want,even on my own private jobs.if their not willing to pay for the proper product,then I'm not willing to put my name on it....period


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> should re read my post ,politics was not the only reason I stated
> out of curiosity ,how wide do you coat your bead.
> here material supplied,and the material I want,even on my own private jobs.if their not willing to pay for the proper product,then I'm not willing to put my name on it....period



I think thr 2nd line was a question, was it ?

Its not about how wide that would be best. 

Ask the Capt I think I know his answer.

:whistling2:

and oh I agree with his theory too


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I think thr 2nd line was a question, was it ?
> 
> Its not about how wide that would be best.
> 
> ...


why don't you answer a question for a change mudstar.Do you use a 12" box and why???????????
and yes that's a question,a two part one.
#1 do you use a 12" box?
#2 why do you use one ?
or are trolls not capable of that,I'm sure catain sheetrock will answer the question I asked.can you answer 2 questions .I'm sure there's a lot of members who would like to hear your answer.
and remember google is watching


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> why don't you answer a question for a change mudstar.Do you use a 12" box and why???????????
> and yes that's a question,a two part one.
> #1 do you use a 12" box?
> #2 why do you use one ?
> ...


Mate!!! Ya Dreamin!!! :wallbash: Your not going to get an answer, Its like trying to push sh!t uphill, as we would say down under.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Fair nuff,,, so why do you feel that a bevel needs a 12" knife or box to make it flat?


To bury the dam high shoulders, thats why :whistling2:


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Fair nuff,,, so why do you feel that a bevel needs a 12" knife or box to make it flat?


I use a 12" box for the extra covering confidence given at that similar rate of speed as using, say a 10" box.

Bill


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> should re read my post ,politics was not the only reason I stated
> out of curiosity ,how wide do you coat your bead.
> here material supplied,and the material I want,even on my own private jobs.if their not willing to pay for the proper product,then I'm not willing to put my name on it....period


Sure. I'll answer that. 

I coat my bead with the LEAST amount it takes to cover it.
That means that with metal bead, I coat it once with a 6 and twice with an 8. PFM I coat twice with an 8. Plastic I coat three times, once with a 4 and twice with an 8. No-Coat (bead) I coat twice with an 8. No Coat out of the box (not really bead) I coat twice with a 5 on insides and/or twice with an 8 on the outside.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

proficient Mudder said:


> I use a 12" box for the extra covering confidence given at that similar rate of speed as using, say a 10" box.
> 
> Bill


I understand what your saying AND what your doing.

I have been doing this long enough to feel confident using a 10. I don't own a 12 box and never will. I understand about "high-shoulders" but I can cover them fine with an 8 and 10.

If I was worried about it and thought that a 12 would fix the problem, I would probbly have one.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

thank you for the reply captain
see were the opposite of you ,were not going to run out and get a 8" box
-I got one taping buddy who goes 8 then 12 so......
-we use trowel for bead 10" or so (maybe 10 1/2).but we will keep this about boxes
now were all anticipating mudstars reply,come on mudstar ,I know you work in kitchener area,you must be using a 12" box,your one hour from me.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> thank you for the reply captain
> see were the opposite of you ,were not going to run out and get a 8" box
> -I got one taping buddy who goes 8 then 12 so......
> -we use trowel for bead 10" or so (maybe 10 1/2).but we will keep this about boxes
> now were all anticipating mudstars reply,come on mudstar ,I know you work in kitchener area,you must be using a 12" box,your one hour from me.


I have a hawk and trowel too. When I use em, I trowel my beads with an 8" trowel, twice.

I just cannot wrap my alcohol saturated brain around the fact of spreading mud all the way up the wall when its not needed.

I guess its a capitalist thing, ya know


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I have a hawk and trowel too. When I use em, I trowel my beads with an 8" trowel, twice.
> 
> I just cannot wrap my alcohol saturated brain around the fact of spreading mud all the way up the wall when its not needed.
> 
> I guess its a capitalist thing, ya know


technically you are coating bead 8 -9 inches wide when using a ten inch trowel ,right....not like your holding tip of the trowel on the nose of the bead.would half to use a 12"trowel to get 10" coat,I think you know what I'm saying .what drives me nuts when you see it ,is base board that looks like a ski ramp ,b/c the bead is coated so shallow .not saying you are......but back in the days when the rockers put the metal bead on.some times it took a lot of mud to make the base board look like it was sitting on a level wall


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

the fact that some of you can't seem to see the benefit of running a 12" over a 10", astounds me. 

ps. columbia 'fat-boy' boxes hold more mud than any other box. northstar 'hi-tops' do not hold as much.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Think I'll use of of those 24" boxes and just coat the whole wall. Would that make ya happy?


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I have a hawk and trowel too. When I use em, I trowel my beads with an 8" trowel, twice.
> 
> I just cannot wrap my alcohol saturated brain around the fact of spreading mud all the way up the wall when its not needed.
> 
> I guess its a capitalist thing, ya know



ummm... ya... 8" trowel is not even close to big enough, especially on bullnose. i've come to the conclusion that you might be the laziest taper there is.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Or some don't know how to put a bead on properly. :blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I belive Tim hit the nail on the head. I coat beads that I have put on.

If you put bead on and YOU have to run em with a 12, 14 or 20" then, well,,, 

What can I say, what should I say,,,,

I know, I'll say this,,,, you don't need anymore mud than it takes to make it FLAT !!! PERIOD,,,


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Why would you say someone is lazy when flat is flat? Jeepers! If you don't put the bead on wacked to one side, the bead on the bead isn't that deep. Put a four foot level on it and mark where it hits the wall. You might be surprised.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

McDusty said:


> ummm... ya... 8" trowel is not even close to big enough, especially on bullnose. i've come to the conclusion that you might be the laziest taper there is.


Seems to me that an 8" trowel puts out the same amount of mud as an 8" knife,,,, cepting a trowel "bellies" it out less. :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Seems to me that an 8" trowel puts out the same amount of mud as an 8" knife,,,, cepting a trowel "bellies" it out less. :thumbsup:


think that's what mc dusty is referring to,is your trowel size.was just going down this beaten path ,because when I worked in Toronto for awhile,the tapers there had to supply the mud .SOME would finish coat their bead with a six inch knife (makes for hollow bead,to me).Areas where mud is supplied (London ex.)I would in general say most guys use a 10" trowel or knife to coat their beads.I personally use a 10" curve at it's highest arching point (2 to 3 inches of trowel sticks past bead)Then a 10" flat trowel to finish on two coat paper bead.
also.....I'm assuming were pro's here.we put our beads on right I hope,but let's say one got put on wrong.say god or Satan put that stick on,you half to coat it,will you build it out level or keep with your same knife/trowel size???????
Funny with the spell check here.said I had to capitalize satan but not god


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> think that's what mc dusty is referring to,is your trowel size.was just going down this beaten path ,because when I worked in Toronto for awhile,the tapers there had to supply the mud .SOME would finish coat their bead with a six inch knife (makes for hollow bead,to me).Areas where mud is supplied (London ex.)I would in general say most guys use a 10" trowel or knife to coat their beads.I personally use a 10" curve at it's highest arching point (2 to 3 inches of trowel sticks past bead)Then a 10" flat trowel to finish on two coat paper bead.
> also.....I'm assuming were pro's here.we put our beads on right I hope,but let's say one got put on wrong.say god or Satan put that stick on,you half to coat it,will you build it out level or keep with your same knife/trowel size???????
> Funny with the spell check here.said I had to capitalize satan but not god


I agree with your post, when I say I use an 8" trowel, I mean for beads that fit right. If a bead is "high" on one side or another, I run it as many times as needed with whatever size knife or trowel it takes. When I speak of "flat" I mean everything needs to be flat, not just the good ones. I even have a 24" trowel, (stucco trowel) don't have to use it much, but it does have its place.

About the spell checker,,,,, It's from TapeTech,,,,:thumbsup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Capt. Agree or not, you always make me smile! You are worth the read! Thanks for being on here!


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> Capt. Agree or not, you always make me smile! You are worth the read! Thanks for being on here!


 Glad I can be of service in some small way,,,,,,:thumbup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

I have never been to NC. If I ever go that way, I would like to meet you!


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I know one guy that uses a 12" box on load and polish coats. In his method; he would off-set one coat from the other....run his first coat high on the flat, and then his finish coat he would run the box an inch or so lower than at first. Seemed to work.


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