# How many coats do you prefer? --Beads and flats



## DwHavoc (Dec 19, 2011)

<P>Hey everyone, first time poster long time reader here. Love everything about this site and it has been a problem solver on many occasions <IMG class=inlineimg border=0 alt=0 src="http://www.drywalltalk.com/images/smilies/thumbup.gif" smilieid="111"></P>
<P> </P>
<P>So here's the gist of it. Recently I've been in a constant battle with myself over how many coats I should do.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Right now I am running  8" and 10" boxes on flats and it's doing the trick, but can't help but think that I need to run that 12" just for the sake of running a 12"...Any thoughts??</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Now, for beads I have been doing two coats for years but am recently thinking I should do a third...I haven't gotten any complaints or anything and I do my own finish sanding so I know it looks good but I could use some opinions to help sort this out once and for all. </P>


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## jcampbell (Aug 26, 2012)

3 coats hand finishing always. Pretty much eliminates touch ups and much less sanding. Just got a few auto tools but haven't tried them out yet.


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## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

Back in the day the crews in our area all ran 7" then 10" and it worked just fine. Now I run 10" then 12" on flats unless there's high shoulders etc. Butts can usually be killed in 2 coats, but I prefer a third skim coat, makes em nice and easy to sand. Bead (metal) is usually 2 coats when installed properly, but for the outside 135's a third coat can really make a difference. 2 coats can be a bit hollow yet.. IMO a third coat on those is always a must.

And what jcampbell said, 3rd coat = much less sanding! :thumbup:

Just what works for me.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I always just run a 10" & 12" box on my flats.
Butts, beads & screws get 3 coats.
I'll two coat the occasional butt joint if it's in good shape.
If I'm using ButtBoard, (which I'm starting to push on all my jobs) then all I do is run my 10" & 12" down the middle like I would any flat. 
Best invention ever! Saves so much time and material!


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Whatever it takes to fix the junk there calling wallboard these days!
A taper should not have to cut back or pre-fill JACK!.
We should be able to walk in and start stringing tape without the BS..
Light wieght board /USG/National Gypsum...JUNK! I've used both ..don't care for it..Weak/ Paper is tissue thin. / no recess..after tape coat theres no room for block or skim .
The l/w boards are hollow ..won't hold a screw properly and the fields are a rippled up mess.
..But that's just my picky opinion..:whistling2:

Different areas carry Different boards from Different plants so...What's good for you may not be the same for me.


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I always just run a 10" & 12" box on my flats.
> Butts, beads & screws get 3 coats.
> I'll two coat the occasional butt joint if it's in good shape.
> If I'm using ButtBoard, (which I'm starting to push on all my jobs) then all I do is run my 10" & 12" down the middle like I would any flat.
> Best invention ever! Saves so much time and material!


How do you count ur butt coats? Splitting the butt with the 10", down the center with the 12", then a tight skim?

Is that 3 coats? :blink:


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I always just run a 10" & 12" box on my flats.
> Butts, beads & screws get 3 coats.
> I'll two coat the occasional butt joint if it's in good shape.
> If I'm using ButtBoard, (which I'm starting to push on all my jobs) then all I do is run my 10" & 12" down the middle like I would any flat.
> Best invention ever! Saves so much time and material!


 
i been thinking about the buttboars, due they work good
how about on ceilings with res/c and vapour barrier

for a young person in the trade you are opened minded and trying new things good for you


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

getplastered said:


> How do you count ur butt coats? Splitting the butt with the 10", down the center with the 12", then a tight skim?
> 
> Is that 3 coats? :blink:


I only do my butt joints by hand. Very rarely will I run boxes on my butts.
I used too, just the way you described. But I found that when I came to do my final skim by hand it wasn't enough. Because you're not feeling the butt join with your hand, you can't tell if one side is out more than the other and needs a little more attention. So I do all my butts and beads by hand.
Unless like I said I'm using Trim-Tex Buttboards, then I just run both boxes right down the middle and it gives an amazing finish!!!



Newagestucco said:


> i been thinking about the buttboars, due they work good
> how about on ceilings with res/c and vapour barrier
> 
> for a young person in the trade you are opened minded and trying new things good for you


That's all I do here bro!
I'm not far at all from you.
Res channel every friggen where! Everyone of my houses! Works amazing!
I'll have a promo video coming out in a weeks time showing how they work as well as the final results. Well worth the investment in my opinion. 
And for those of you who think it's expensive and an added cost, you'll save that money just in mud.

Here's a sneak peek of some still images from the video.
I haven't started editing yet because I still want to do a bit of filming for some scenes. But it shouldn't be long. Another week or so.

*Tape Coat*








*Block Coat* (10" Box down middle)








*Skim Coat* (12" Box down middle) 







Also, make note of the difference in sizes between the butt joint on the wall compared to the ceiling.
You're saving all that material and time spent coating.
Also saving on drywall because all you do is run full sheets. Don't have to cut them to land on anything. Let them float, scab in your ButtBoard.
Save on drywall, save on mud and save on time. I didn't have to think about trying this product! It sold itself to me.

*Finished Product* (Perfectly Flat Ceiling)


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

For a spray or hand texture job I two coat metal and screws, three coats on splay. Joints get two coats, with 8" and 10" box or 10" and 12" box depending on who I'm doing the job for. I split the butts out twice and give them a skim coat. On a smooth wall job everything gets three coats. Joints and butts get ran with the 7"-10"-12" boxes and skim coat on the butts. That's about it, I just do what the job calls for to make it pretty.


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I only do my butt joints by hand. Very rarely will I run boxes on my butts.
> I used too, just the way you described. But I found that when I came to do my final skim by hand it wasn't enough. Because you're not feeling the butt join with your hand, you can't tell if one side is out more than the other and needs a little more attention. So I do all my butts and beads by hand.
> Unless like I said I'm using Trim-Tex Buttboards, then I just run both boxes right down the middle and it gives an amazing finish!!!
> 
> ...



What about insulated walls? I used the stuff joe sent...it does work...I just found it slowed us down on the installation...I get that you make that back during finishing, but sometimes it's hard to change my ways...ugh...stubborn dog.


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

getplastered said:


> What about insulated walls? I used the stuff joe sent...it does work...I just found it slowed us down on the installation...I get that you make that back during finishing, but sometimes it's hard to change my ways...ugh...stubborn dog.


The other nice thing is you're not fighting with an inch and a half crooked stud busting up on ya as you try and bite into it with a screw...you end up with big nailing edge which was nice...


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

getplastered said:


> What about insulated walls? I used the stuff joe sent...it does work...I just found it slowed us down on the installation...I get that you make that back during finishing, but sometimes it's hard to change my ways...ugh...stubborn dog.


Dude...It's seriously so much faster using butt board.
You don't ever have to take an accurate measurement. lol. 
Just let your sheet float in between the studs. 
Slap up the butt board and screw from the front. It takes getting used too. For now, we're just using it on our ceilings, but after seeing how fast they went, we were trowelling walls and we were like WTF....why didn't we use them in the walls...lol.
We have before and they worked great, but I've been trying to save the ones I have so I've been using as little as possible. Just in ceilings until I get more. But they do work great in walls. It's not a bad idea to use 1" screws if you're using them in walls, that way the extra 1/4" isn't poking holes everywhere in your vapour barrier. :thumbsup:


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

getplastered said:


> The other nice thing is you're not fighting with an inch and a half crooked stud busting up on ya as you try and bite into it with a screw...you end up with big nailing edge which was nice...


Exactly! :thumbsup:
Like I said, don't have to measure accurately to land on a stud. I can measure sheets myself on the floor if I want. Just let it float and make sure you're about 3" away from either side of the studs. Gives you about 10" of wiggle room.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

You also have to mention the time saved with measuring and cutting. Was doing a " Homeowner Special) a while back in a basement and the layout wasnt working. Had a couple handfuls of buttboards I brought along and we didnt even measure but 4 pieces on a big lid. No waste either, slap it up. I dig it the only prob is I dont personally hang all the rock :thumbsup: ( That chits hard work) and the hangers like to cut up board and dont really understand how much time it saves the tapers. I thought it saved time hanging for me and board:thumbup:. Just gave a price for a real old airplane hanger and I can Imafine how fd up the framing is going to be, I may have to get a couple boxes of the fire treated


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

DwHavoc said:


> Hey everyone, first time poster long time reader here. Love everything about this site and it has been a problem solver on many occasions So here's the gist of it. Recently I've been a constant battle with myself over how many coats I should do.
> Right now I am running 8" and10" boxes on flats and it's doing the trick, but can't help but think that I need to run that 12" just for the sake of running a 12"...Any thoughts??
> Now, for beads I have been doing two coats for years but am recently thinking I should do a third...I haven't gotten any complaints or anything and I do my own finish sanding so I know it looks good but I could use some opinions to help sort this out once and for all


All depends on what type of job you want.

if you were doing a room for your wife/girl friend:whistling2:, you would 2 coat the screws, beads, corner/internal angels are 2 coats, if tape counts as first coat, and glaze/flush, dam the 3 ways. Flats and butts could get tricky, It would depend on what type of mood she was in that day. Just tape and coat the flats if she is b1tchy that day, a long with the butts, and do a knock down spray. If she is in a good mood, Tape, coat, and skim the joints, sand with 120 grit, the mood thing will decide if you check it with a light:thumbup:

Now if it's your room, (and a buddy of yours used drywall nails on the perimeters) Pre-fill everything, even those pesky nails in the corners. 3 coat the screws and beads. tape and coat angles equals three coats now, since you pre-filled those pesky nails, and polish your 3 ways. Tape, coat and skim coat flats(10 and 12" or 8 and 10") No pre-fill, go 7"/8",10",12" boxes, butts are 3 coats. pre check with a light quickly for any lines or porosity before sanding (since dust can hide things). Use triangle sanding sponge on a pole to cut point in angles.(no sponging out angles that way when checking) sand with 180 grit, polish with 220. Check with 300 watt light, and you should only half to sponge out your 3 ways:thumbup:

In a nut shell, 2 coats is chit work, 3 coats is golden,,, Or ,,, get you work loaded, bedded, coated to level or to where it should be,,,,Then skim/coat it out TIGHT !!!!!,, Some call the skim coat the sanding coat.

But all the rules change if you know how to do secret magical mud mixes:whistling2:

Oh, forgot the most important thing, Rough sand in between coats


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh, forgot the most important thing, Rough sand in between coats


I rough sanded my angles today.....


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

i do a tape coat followed by 2 coats on butts and seams, Though theres alot of touch up before i apply finish coat. By touch i mean skimming out with my 6" all stop and gos, deep scratches, bubbles, and around outlets. Of course if i see any thing i dont like i will add another skim . For seams I use a 10" then 12", but when i see a seam i dont like i will double it up to 24"s. Butts i go 10" 3 wide then 12" 3 wide. then if i need to re skim i bust out the 14" 3 wide for a 32" Butt. Bead I getaway with 2 coats for commercial 3 for residential but always touching it up as i go. I always 4 coat all MMR board and most seams in bathrooms. that way i am covered if they use semigloss for paint finish. I see noone is talking about screws. Well i always do 3 coats but after firstcoat is dry i like to go ahead and touch up anyt that dont look perfect. so i would say i do 3 and a half coats on my screws. No worries


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I rough sanded my angles today.....


LOL, that's what this site is about:yes:

You will constantly change the way you do things in this trade for the rest of your life, type of tools materials and systems you will run. But all things come down to that last day on your job.

When changing things up..... always compare your pole sand time (or power sander) to your check out time (light and sponge).

Back in the day, for a house we recently did, I would of been 6 hours to pole sand out, 4 hours to check out. Now we would be 4 hours to sand out, under a hour to check out. So a ratio of 6 to 4 vs 4 to one.

Pole sand ratio to check out ratio is important. Less check out means your doing good, and rough sanding will affect those ratios 

And all my ratios were approximate in this post:whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I rough sanded my angles today.....


 


:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

tape and 2 coats. A 3rd on the butts 2 on the bead and screws. I like to stripe the bead on touchup. 2 good coats isnt chit work


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Two coats on the bead, butts, and flats. Run the bed/block coat with a 10 with a bit of a hump to it, then run the tightest setting with the 12 on the skim coat. Metal bead really needs 3 coats, but you can get away with putting on and coating the bead when you tape, then streak it when your bedding, then a tight skim. Butt joints are generally ok with only getting two coats on them by hand, but our finishers always run the box on them and then come back to them and work them by hand on both the bed and skim coat. The screws need 3 coats period!


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## boco (Oct 29, 2010)

2 coats is all ya need. i do 3 for residential but only to bust them out out a little more with my 12" or 14" to keep the finish carpenter happy.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Bead 3 coats
Seams 3 coats
Butts 3 coats
screws 3 coats
Empty screw holes 4 coats


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I always just run a 10" & 12" box on my flats.
> Butts, beads & screws get 3 coats.
> I'll two coat the occasional butt joint if it's in good shape.
> If I'm using ButtBoard, (which I'm starting to push on all my jobs) then all I do is run my 10" & 12" down the middle like I would any flat.
> Best invention ever! Saves so much time and material!


how much time can it save ...............I find there is only a half a dozen or so wall butts anyways and if you want to prevent cracking its better on a stud. You will find out in time grasshopper. New ways to do butts sometimes is not always better JS


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I only do my butt joints by hand. Very rarely will I run boxes on my butts.
> 
> And for those of you who think it's expensive and an added cost, you'll save that money just in mud.


Your thinking your saving money, you must of failed in math the cost of one extra box of mud is cheaper then what you doing in extra cost and work grasshopper.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> how much time can it save ...............I find there is only a half a dozen or so wall butts anyways and if you want to prevent cracking its better on a stud. You will find out in time grasshopper. New ways to do butts sometimes is not always better JS


 The only time you need to see how they hold up is a year or two.
I used them on a winter job 2 years ago...Everythings cool Man.
They held up just fine.:yes:


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## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

I can assure all of you you that our OSB ButtBoards work perfect 100% of the time and should finish with a 12" box/knife in all reasonably flat framing conditions. All severe problems in the framing should be identified in your framing inspection and fixed (improved) prior to hanging. Our Shim on a Roll can help improve all those problem areas. 

We have sold ButtBoard for over 9 years and the metal EZ Backer for 4 years prior. We would not have invested substantial $$$$ to retool for the improved OSB version had there been any flaws on the install or short/ long term performance. The manufacturing of MDF board stopped in North America and shifted to Asia and we refuse to outsorce from there so we turned our focus to OSB made in North America. 

The function of the OSB Board is the same with the added performance of easier screw starting. 

Thanks for your support! Joe


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Butt boards all the way


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

That huge railroad looks sweet!!! Good luck with that!!


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Mountain Man said:


> That huge railroad looks sweet!!! Good luck with that!!


Thats on butt boards easiest butt joint you will ever finish...


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

smisner50s said:


> Thats on butt boards easiest butt joint you will ever finish...


It's funny how people just can't grasp the concept of butt board...there's no difference for us between a butt joint and a flat anymore. That might as well be one long flat. 
I never thought of doing it that way Steve. Good idea bro!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Over here our code tells us that butts must be staggered. Is that not the case in the USA?


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

smisner50s said:


> Thats on butt boards easiest butt joint you will ever finish...


Sorry to disagree but the easiest butt you will ever finish is a rebate mate joint.


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

gazman said:


> Over here our code tells us that butts must be staggered. Is that not the case in the USA?


We dont even have code for drywall where i'm from. There's no inspection, nothing. We can hang and tape however we please. 
That's why there's allot of butchers. 

And technically a rebatemate joint and buttboard joint should both be the same to finish. It's just preferrence over what you like to use for the hanging stage.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> Over here our code tells us that butts must be staggered. Is that not the case in the USA?


It is over here too, at least my part of Banada. The only place they run one continuous joint is in the garages.

I know were talking butt boards here, but truss movement is movement. I could use hip rafters as a example....

When they use to do the lids on hips, they ran the drywall perpendicular with the truss. So you could be in a bed room 12 x 12, where one half the sheets ran 6 foot in one direction, and the other sheets ran in the opposite direction. This would leave a continuous joint, which would always crack.

Over time they figured out to run the sheets the same way, as long as the hip rafters were under 6 feet. Anything over 6 feet had to be blocked in or strapped out. This system allows for staggering of butt joints for rooms 12 feet or greater (12' our largest sheets).

To each his own if they want to use butt boards, I have no sheep to enter in this shagging contest, since I only tape now, and follow the rockers. But if I entered a house, and seen one continuous butt, I would be having the builder/GC sign something in writing, that I'm not responsible for any problems that may arise down the road.

Suspended steel stud system could be a different story, but wood trusses:blink:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> It is over here too, at least my part of Banada. The only place they run one continuous joint is in the garages.
> 
> I know were talking butt boards here, but truss movement is movement. I could use hip rafters as a example....
> 
> ...


Well first off..hip roofs are not all the same you can stick frame them..or get them trussed with gurder supports many ways..and sence i have been building houses .buildings .wood .steel .panneled.ect sence i was 10 or younger with my dad in the family bussiness i know what is paration and structial framing of homes and what not .if i would walk in a job and see a rail roal i would be like wtf....but that was before butt boards ..that joint cant move..i been doing this method for 2 years now and 0 problems ..but to each his own ..im 30 now and have 20 years building under my belt..i was born into feid of construction and ill die in the feild of construction brother..


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> Well first off..hip roofs are not all the same you can stick frame them..or get them trussed with gurder supports many ways..and sence i have been building houses .buildings .wood .steel .panneled.ect sence i was 10 or younger with my dad in the family bussiness i know what is paration and structial framing of homes and what not .if i would walk in a job and see a rail roal i would be like wtf....but that was before butt boards ..that joint cant move..i been doing this method for 2 years now and 0 problems ..but to each his own ..im 30 now and have 20 years building under my belt..i was born into feid of construction and ill die in the feild of construction brother..


Well if were going to go by your rules, then I have 40 years of experience:thumbup:

I too have a step father that was a GC, who did all faucets of construction, and excelled at framing. But if were in a pissing contest, at least I will be honest, and admit that any work I did when I was young, cut into my fun time (plus I made more money at selling drugs in high school:whistling2. It was not till I dropped out of college (architecture drafting) and had a instant family to support, that I took things more serious.

So if I use a Canadian communist word "collective", I will take the collective thought of all, as opposed to ones own personal experience.

So I will take the collective thoughts of the DWC that I work for, who has been in business for 35 years, and has serviced clients for just as long, and preforms warranty work for them. The local building Association which the DWC is a member of. The building codes they comply to, and even the union which will over see things.

From my own personal aspect, we use to use hat track (look at the design of it) maybe not as good as butt boards. But it shares some of the same principles, with how it con-caves, so the butt joint would bend up/in, for a easy finish. They no longer accept floated butts on the ceilings,,,period

So yes, do what you want brother, but even with this new product fiba fuse. I ask the DWC which houses we can test it in, so he can keep track of it. In case any problems arise down the road:yes:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Well if were going to go by your rules, then I have 40 years of experience:thumbup:
> 
> I too have a step father that was a GC, who did all faucets of construction, and excelled at framing. But if were in a pissing contest, at least I will be honest, and admit that any work I did when I was young, cut into my fun time (plus I made more money at selling drugs in high school:whistling2. It was not till I dropped out of college (architecture drafting) and had a instant family to support, that I took things more serious.
> 
> ...


No pissing contest here brother ..not my intent..we to are members of our builders accioation.and my father has been president of it twice now... and is on the board and so on bla bla bla so we know the rules verry well..but no it not agienst code to float using butt board..our inspecter like them ..different strokes for different foaks.
Much respect brother


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

gazman said:


> Sorry to disagree but the easiest butt you will ever finish is a rebate mate joint.


Sorry to disagree,,, but the easiest butt you'll ever finish is a girl with 3 glasses of my "Panty-Dropper" plum wine !!!!:yes:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Sorry to disagree,,, but the easiest butt you'll ever finish is a girl with 3 glasses of my "Panty-Dropper" plum wine !!!!:yes:


Nice


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Sorry to disagree,,, but the easiest butt you'll ever finish is a girl with 3 glasses of my "Panty-Dropper" plum wine !!!!:yes:


 Well...That's cheaper than a case of Nattys:yes:
so what's ''Panty-Dropper'' breath taste like??:blink:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Different apples Capt.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> Well...That's cheaper than a case of Nattys:yes:
> so what's ''Panty-Dropper'' breath taste like??:blink:


Man, I didn't say I was gonna kiss her too!!!!

and I think Gaz is abit offended,,,, I haven't tried it on sheep tho,,,, might have to give that a shot !!!!


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Man, I didn't say I was gonna kiss her too!!!!
> 
> and I think Gaz is abit offended,,,, I haven't tried it on sheep tho,,,, might have to give that a shot !!!!


Oh no:blink:, now you have up set Gazman:blink:

The kiwi's do sheep, The Aussies do Kangaroo's :whistling2:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> Oh no:blink:, now you have up set Gazman:blink:
> 
> The kiwi's do sheep, The Aussies do Kangaroo's :whistling2:


Well, a Kiwi picked up a sheep at the bar and brought her home,, he had all the furniture tied up in the corner,,, the sheep asked him why,,, and he said,,,,,,,,,,,,,

"If its anything like screwing a kangaroo,,,, wer'e gonna need all the room we can get"


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## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

i use a 11" curve to cout. than a 15" flat to finsh. 
but i use straight out of box. for fill anyways. i dont sand my flats. sometimes i dont sand my butts. but allway sand my beed. (roll your mud)!:whistling2:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Capt-sheetrock;
and I think Gaz is abit offended!!!![/QUOTE said:


> We are all good Capt, I dont offend easy.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Mudstar said:


> how much time can it save ...............I find there is only a half a dozen or so wall butts anyways and if you want to prevent cracking its better on a stud. You will find out in time grasshopper. New ways to do butts sometimes is not always better JS



Have to disagree with this statement Mudstar. You are more likley to get cracking of the joint if it lands on a stud. Think about it, where is movement likely to be, Logically it is the frame. Also you are relying on a limited amount of screws (you are very limited with the amount of screws you can put on a 2x4 when you can only fix to 1 inch). Also how often is the stud bent or out of plumb and you only have 1/4 inch to fix too. With the Butt Boards you are staying away from the stud, therefore minimizing the chance of movement. The other thing is that the Butt Board has more screws over a larger area, creating strength. Having said that I would not railroad butts.


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## Newagestucco (Apr 18, 2012)

gazman said:


> Have to disagree with this statement Mudstar. You are more likley to get cracking of the joint if it lands on a stud. Think about it, where is movement likely to be, Logically it is the frame. Also you are relying on a limited amount of screws (you are very limited with the amount of screws you can put on a 2x4 when you can only fix to 1 inch). Also how often is the stud bent or out of plumb and you only have 1/4 inch to fix too. With the Butt Boards you are staying away from the stud, therefore minimizing the chance of movement. The other thing is that the Butt Board has more screws over a larger area, creating strength. Having said that I would not railroad butts.


we been using the buttboards on ceilings with good results


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## eazyrizla (Jul 29, 2010)

level 5 one coat. Big bucks


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