# Spraying Level 5 Primer



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

People have always told me that when spraying level 5 that you have to spray one direction then let it tack up and spray it in the other direction. In my area we call this the cross hatch pattern.

I have found that this is not so true. I spray the material with a .619 tip and overlap my spray 50%. The end result is no different than using the cross hatch pattern and is a more efficient procedure in my opinion.

Am I the only one who does it this way?


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Make sure to backroll--thats the correct way!!


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

DSJOHN said:


> Make sure to backroll--thats the correct way!!


You are a funny guy.:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Cross hatch it dude, same as spraying ceilings/lids or walls or it will be slightly uneven, dont worry about it tacking up, it can handle being sprayed up and down then sprayed accross it, this is the best and only way to get the most even coat, I did do it one way same as you trying to save time a few times and its not so good and had some uneven coverage so cross hatch spraying is a good method to stick to, trust me, one day it will save you and you wont even realise it :thumbsup: In fact i lighty spary cross hatch method several times over one area, spray accross then up and down then accross then up and down lightly each time slowly filling and building it up to a full even perfect finish with no sray or lap marks or runs at all, If you think spraying just up and down works well ( and it prob looks ok) but you wait till harsh sun or an uplight hits it, trust me, then you will see you lap marks, especially with painted ceilings, man they can really show up the lap marks if not cross hatched a few times.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

I was on a job with 20 ft. clear stories, windows around the entire perimeter right at the tippy-top, and the cross hatch looked like stairs going up the wall. It was quite ugly.


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

OK guys I am a painter, I can spray pretty good. The only time that I have had any problems with level 5 is in very small areas like a linen closet. I once had a little too much material end up going onto the walls and had to skim coat a curtain away. We all make a little oopsy every now and then, the good guys know how to fix it asap. I still have had very good luck with 50% overlap.

I have gotten into the habit of shing a halogen down the walls after the fact and touching up any little things. My method has proven to be very effective with no signs of spray laps or flashing. 

What size tips are you guys using?


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

I use a widespray[24"] tip for primer and backroll,, lite pole sand when dry and shoot latex finish with a 619 and backroll.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

I'm with Caz on this one. I cross-hatch it. I don't back roll level 5 (maybe I should) I do backroll paint, all the time,everytime. 

To answer the OP, I do not see level-5 as a "primer" coat. I level5 to "finish" the drywall, so that flashing is not a problem. Then I primer, backroll, and paint either with a roller, or a sprayer along with back-roll.

JMO


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

So for some of you that think you dont need to backroll a level 5--- do you backroll over veneer plaster?


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

DSJOHN said:


> So for some of you that think you dont need to backroll a level 5--- do you backroll over veneer plaster?


 LOL,,, your the plaster guy,,,, I don't have a clue here,,,, when I run into plaster,, I call guys like you. Really !!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Thats why I never post on the plaster threads,,, I'm the drywall master of the universe......... never said anything about plaster


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Got your back Capt,, I know you Know that I know That you know what we,re talking about---hee hee hee. Just wondering about the rest of the fellas? Cause ya know that veneer plaster is the next generation of level5!!----BTW,, I backroll everything


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

DSJOHN said:


> Got your back Capt,, I know you Know that I know That you know what we,re talking about---hee hee hee. Just wondering about the rest of the fellas? Cause ya know that veneer plaster is the next generation of level5!!----BTW,, I backroll everything


 Thats the very reason I got so good at drywall,,,,,, I had to prove that I was as good as the Plaster guys !!!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:

Its a funny thing,,, I went crazy in the early 80's and decided i wanted to learn the EIF stucco buss. Got right good at it too. But its like any other trade, just cause I can run stucco with a trowel, or drywall with a trowel, don't mean I can run plaster with a trowel.

Seems like there ain't that much diff in any of em, but as you know,,, they are ALL speclized (yeah, speeling is another thing i never got good at):yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> OK guys I am a painter, I can spray pretty good. The only time that I have had any problems with level 5 is in very small areas like a linen closet. I once had a little too much material end up going onto the walls and had to skim coat a curtain away. We all make a little oopsy every now and then, the good guys know how to fix it asap. I still have had very good luck with 50% overlap.
> 
> I have gotten into the habit of shing a halogen down the walls after the fact and touching up any little things. My method has proven to be very effective with no signs of spray laps or flashing.
> 
> What size tips are you guys using?


 
As i said im painter as well and use to run a roof recoating franchise during summer for about 5 years so im well use to the spray gear.

As far as those level 5 spray products go im not a fan, I have found rolling the mud on then troweling off for the critacial light areas works the best, and those spray level 5 products are way over priced here, Anyway all those products are for is to make the surface smooth, they dont fill dispite what the bucket says, If you use regular paint primer undercoat sealer whatever you call it and cross hatch spray it several times lighty but get a good build up and dont be a tight wad with the paint you can achive the same thing which is smooth walls, and guess what, then you dont have to prime it, so skip that level 5 spray rubbish and save the cost. I used a 519 or 619 as well and on ceilings a 614 fine finsh for paint top coats.

And as for backrolling????? I dont get that, I want to make the wall smooth, not ruin it with a roller, same as spraying lids, some backroll that too, why bother??

We have another so call level 5 product here that is ment to be rolled on, which makes a mess, it is full of roller marks that then are a bitch to sand back.

But as Capt said, You are then plaster king DSJOHN, i know nothing about that stuff, we dont have that here.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> As i said im painter as well and use to run a roof recoating franchise during summer for about 5 years so im well use to the spray gear.
> 
> As far as those level 5 spray products go im not a fan, I have found rolling the mud on then troweling off for the critacial light areas works the best, and those spray level 5 products are way over priced here, Anyway all those products are for is to make the surface smooth, they dont fill dispite what the bucket says, If you use regular paint primer undercoat sealer whatever you call it and cross hatch spray it several times lighty but get a good build up and dont be a tight wad with the paint you can achive the same thing which is smooth walls, and guess what, then you dont have to prime it, so skip that level 5 spray rubbish and save the cost. I used a 519 or 619 as well and on ceilings a 614 fine finsh for paint top coats.
> 
> ...


 Caz, don't know bout your neck of the woods,,, but the reason that level5 even exists in the USA is cause painters don't back-roll the primer coat,,, no joke. Thats it. period.

Its like this,,, painters come in, they don't even sweep the dust off the walls, then they spray the primer on,,, cross-hatching, I might add,thinking that since they cross-hatched it, the dust will dissappear. Then after they paint it, the "dust-lines" show up. ENTER the level5,,,, they had to come up with a REASON to fix this problem, other than telling the painters,,, BACK ROLL OR HIT THE ROAD.

I finish and paint. I don't sweep the walls, however, I back-roll my primer coat. Then I sand, then I coat, then I sand, then I second coat. POOF. no need for level5..

IF you prime without back-rolling,,,, you CAPTURE the dust "picture" on the wall,,,, never to be removed again!!!!!!!!

Thats the fact and not JMHO


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Well thats amazing capt, Oh my god, I mean WTF, I sand the plaster then use a wooster dust eater over it to get rid of the dust or broom it if i forget to bring it, Then the floor is swept and then vacuumed spotless, even the windows, all around the skirtings doors etc, yeah yeah bla bla it takes extra time but at least you can paint without all that crap about so that time can be made up agian, aint no paint coming out till thats done, then spray then sand then wooster dusteat it again, have you seen them??? they are a big triangle thing with mop hairs on it that you attach to a pole, covers the wall area great.

And if i dont paint its still dust eated down and swept and luxed out.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Well thats amazing capt, Oh my god, I mean WTF, I sand the plaster then use a wooster dust eater over it to get rid of the dust or broom it if i forget to bring it, Then the floor is swept and then vacuumed spotless, even the windows, all around the skirtings doors etc, yeah yeah bla bla it takes extra time but at least you can paint without all that crap about so that time can be made up agian, aint no paint coming out till thats done, then spray then sand then wooster dusteat it again, have you seen them??? they are a big triangle thing with mop hairs on it that you attach to a pole, covers the wall area great.
> 
> And if i dont paint its still dust eated down and swept and luxed out.


 Calm down Caz, I was/am making the point that level5 came into existance and remains, because painters do not back-roll period.

I was not saying anything about how YOU finish and paint,,, I was just making the point that since SOME spray primer on walls without REMOVING the dust or BACKROLLING it out of existance,,,, level5 has climbed out of the primordial soup and evolved into a viable creature that dumbass GC"s think is a good idea!

However we GET there,,,, the dust MUST be removed, or it will show up in the finish!:thumbsup:

Personnally, I prefer to back-roll it out of existence. Much faster and easier than sweeping, vac-ing and so on.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Well thats amazing capt, Oh my god, I mean WTF, I sand the plaster then use a wooster dust eater over it to get rid of the dust or broom it if i forget to bring it, Then the floor is swept and then vacuumed spotless, even the windows, all around the skirtings doors etc, yeah yeah bla bla it takes extra time but at least you can paint without all that crap about so that time can be made up agian, aint no paint coming out till thats done, then spray then sand then wooster dusteat it again, have you seen them??? they are a big triangle thing with mop hairs on it that you attach to a pole, covers the wall area great.
> 
> And if i dont paint its still dust eated down and swept and luxed out.


 Of course I know what a dust-eater is,,,,, I seen them swifter commercials,,, however, I think the mop got a bum rap,,, really !!!!!!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Calm down Caz, I was/am making the point that level5 came into existance and remains, because painters do not back-roll period.
> 
> I was not saying anything about how YOU finish and paint,,, I was just making the point that since SOME spray primer on walls without REMOVING the dust or BACKROLLING it out of existance,,,, level5 has climbed out of the primordial soup and evolved into a viable creature that dumbass GC"s think is a good idea!
> 
> ...


Ha ha all good capt, I realise that :thumbsup: Actually most painters here back roll as they brush and roll the sealer on.

Still a bit messy painting around windows and bottoms of doors, skirting boards though, Not for me, pass me the vacuum mr festool thanks.


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Still a bit messy painting around windows and bottoms of doors, skirting boards though, Not for me, pass me the vacuum mr festool thanks.


 You lost me there,,,, Not sure what your saying,,,,,???


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> You lost me there,,,, Not sure what your saying,,,,,???


Im saying its messy trying to paint the bottoms of walls and door frames if it has dust every where, and festool is my vacuum, A festool brand vacuum and i will vacuum these areas after sanding so its clean ready for painting.


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> OK guys I am a painter, I can spray pretty good. The only time that I have had any problems with level 5 is in very small areas like a linen closet. I once had a little too much material end up going onto the walls and had to skim coat a curtain away. We all make a little oopsy every now and then, the good guys know how to fix it asap. I still have had very good luck with 50% overlap.
> 
> I have gotten into the habit of shing a halogen down the walls after the fact and touching up any little things. My method has proven to be very effective with no signs of spray laps or flashing.
> 
> What size tips are you guys using?



Real painters do not cross hatch. (I'm gonna get it for this one.)
50/50 split is the norm around here combined with backrolling. You should back roll Level 5 for a completely even finish and to eliminate any shadows and texture differences between the mud and paper.

We only cross hatch production housing lids, never walls.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Checkers said:


> Real painters do not cross hatch. (I'm gonna get it for this one.)
> 50/50 split is the norm around here combined with backrolling. You should back roll Level 5 for a completely even finish and to eliminate any shadows and texture differences between the mud and paper.
> 
> We only cross hatch production housing lids, never walls.


Yeah, Real LAZY painters :jester:


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Checkers said:


> Real painters do not cross hatch. (I'm gonna get it for this one.)
> 50/50 split is the norm around here combined with backrolling. You should back roll Level 5 for a completely even finish and to eliminate any shadows and texture differences between the mud and paper.
> 
> We only cross hatch production housing lids, never walls.


 
I couldn't argee with you more about real painters don't cross hatch.

I would never backroll a level 5 for the simple fact that you would ruin the opportunity to have the slickest finish possible without back rolling.
A good spray man can achieve optimum results without back rolling.

Back rolling this material would be similar to an automotive painter backrolling his material. Basically taking a finish that would otherwise be slick as hell and adding roller stipple to it, hence ruining the job.


On the finish coat, heck yeah. I want a little bit of stipple.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

capt and john

I think the OP was talking about spraying product such as tuff hide or sprayplast...you can't backroll these because of how they are applied (thick)

when I do spray sprayplast, I crosshatch but i can do 50/50 and have no issues..just icing on the cake type thing

for me, 90% of the jobs I paint also, I just use pva primer and paint....spray backroll prime/sand/spray backroll 1st coat/spray trim/sand/roll final coat on walls....sometimes, depending on job, I get away with 2 coats using tinted primer or using the newer paints like behr ultra, which, btw, is probably the best big box paint I have ever used....still like porter...but that is another topic

as capt said, you gotta sand to even out the walls.....capt...sorry to disagree, but mops are meant for floors...for me...lol


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Bill from Indy said:


> capt and john
> 
> I think the OP was talking about spraying product such as tuff hide or sprayplast...you can't backroll these because of how they are applied (thick)
> 
> ...


 No probs Bill,,, that was kinda my point. A cpl things going on here. 

1) how to deal with the DUST left from sanding drywall. We can clean it off, then paint, or we can simple spray the primer on and backroll it. Both work, one is cost effective. Even if we clean it off, we still have a discrepency twixt the joint and the paper, another area that is resovled by back-rolling.

2) backrolling level5 is an attempt to somehow skip the problems of number 1). 

It don't really matter what you spray on a wall, till you have dealt with the dust and the diff in joints and paper,,, you are pissin in the wind.

Someone mentioned back-rolling an atuomoblie. When was the last time you saw someone fix a dent, prime ONLY the dent, and then think that they could paint the entire fender????? I believe that after they fix the dent, they prime the entire fender, then sand it to achive a level5 finish on it before they paint it !!!!!!!!

Here's my take and you guys can take it of leave it. The wall has to brought to ONE consistancy. Paper and joint compound are TWO differant consistancys. Dust must be dealt with, and the wall must be brought into ONE consistant plane. Then anyone can paint it!!! 

Or we could just get DSJohn to plaster it, and we wouldn't have to be discussing this,,,LOL:thumbup:


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

im with ya capt...and not disagreeing

technically, there are 4 surfaces to deal with:jester:
mud/board/sanded board/dust

I have never used tuff hide so I can't comment on it specifically, but sprayplast goes on very thick and isn't really smooth per say...it has a molten or true orange peel look...it does "level" the walls but at the cost of a 4k$ spray rig and material that is about $115/5....i can get the same L5 result with a 10$ roller and a 10$ bucket of mud...but like you said, if your L4 is done right....then it is PRIMED right....you shouldnt have any issues 90% of the time.

I don't have the fancy sander so I still leave dust on the walls

i'll sand a job and leave the house full of pigeons before I put a mop on any of my walls though...if i want poop on walls, may as well let the birds in.....LOL


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Yeah, Real LAZY painters :jester:


I don't see why you put the little joker symbol in this statement ,I was going to agree with you:yes:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I don't see why you put the little joker symbol in this statement ,I was going to agree with you:yes:


The little joker was just so i didnt come accross as to much of a smart ass so thanks for the back up, But i am serious about it, Not cross hatching is like painting with a grim reaper behind you, sooner or later it will be CHOP, I know from first hand experance, I sprayed without cross hatching a few times couse i was the man and i didnt need to, HUH fool was I, Ceiling flat paint with harsh light accross it will kick your backside if you dont cross hatch, So can all other sprayed coats.
Some jobs dont have light like that but best practice is to treat it as it does couse the electrical is armed with some nasty light fittings. :yes:

Good luck to those that dont, Seriously, you need it.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

The L5 spray product I use goes on 16 mils wet . and it is not recommend to backroll. It has to be sprayed on. After which a L5 primer is applied that can be backrolled and sanded and it goes on 8 mils wet. Once the prime is sanded , the walls will feel like glass. Just saying if the products are used according to the directions , it will make life easier.. sounds like there is an awful amount of sanding and cleaning going on here. 
Also the primer can be tinted,,


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> capt and john
> 
> I think the OP was talking about spraying product such as tuff hide or sprayplast...you can't backroll these because of how they are applied (thick)
> 
> ...


 Dayum Bill,, I am only paying 35 bucks a 5 for the l5 spray, and 37 a 5 for the primer sorry I think I just quoted the wrong quote


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> Dayum Bill,, I am only paying 35 bucks a 5 for the l5 spray, and 37 a 5 for the primer sorry I think I just quoted the wrong quote


it has been awhile since i have used sprayplast so, to be honest..it could be cheaper now...since doing a lot of dap, I just spray proform black lid or roll it

primer runs me about 30/5


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

Bill from Indy said:


> it has been awhile since i have used sprayplast so, to be honest..it could be cheaper now...since doing a lot of dap, I just spray proform black lid or roll it
> 
> primer runs me about 30/5


 Now that I think about it , the sprayplast,, that is sold at SW paint. is pricey. Not sure about the quality of the product as well.


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

betterdrywall said:


> Now that I think about it , the sprayplast,, that is sold at SW paint. is pricey. Not sure about the quality of the product as well.


oh..quality wise, it is very good...but like I said, pricey...it was spec'd by a couple different contractors I did work for on medical buildouts for awhile...i can't say exactly the amount ive used...if it has been less than100 5/s i'd be shocked...this was before I heard of tuff hide...and I haven't used it.


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

I have been drywalling in Kentucky for 29 yrs, mainly residential, but several yrs commercial and I have never seen level 5 sprayed on. We have and others have always mud rolled and knife skimmed. I know that spraying has to be faster, but how much is to be invested in needed tools and material?
The real sad part is that alot of jobs that should get a level 5 finish because of gloss paint and lighting, don't even require it. 

I am getting ready to start a 1500 board job and I have seen it requires level 5, so once again,We will be rolling 60,000 ft of board. I am ready for newer techniques on this matter.

Bill


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## Bill from Indy (Apr 26, 2010)

proficient Mudder said:


> I have been drywalling in Kentucky for 29 yrs, mainly residential, but several yrs commercial and I have never seen level 5 sprayed on. We have and others have always mud rolled and knife skimmed. I know that spraying has to be faster, but how much is to be invested in needed tools and material?
> The real sad part is that alot of jobs that should get a level 5 finish because of gloss paint and lighting, don't even require it.
> 
> I am getting ready to start a 1500 board job and I have seen it requires level 5, so once again,We will be rolling 60,000 ft of board. I am ready for newer techniques on this matter.
> ...


If the job don't require a spec'd material, you can just use mud..I personally feel it is better to try starting with mud to acquire the technique, then move on to a material, such as sprayplast. My reasons for this, is because mud you can sand to get the desired finish...if you jump in spraying material that you cant sand and goof, then you are touching up again (with mud)

It is much faster in process, but you have to take in to affect the areas you don't want sprayed...so there is prep work involved...if there are a lot of doors installed...windows/grid...etc...it may be better to roll...I just don't know the situation although 1500bd is a big area to roll

there are several pumps now on the market, but I advise you go with a direct immersion pump like the mark 4/5 graco or speeflo powrtex models. I, personally, have a speeflo powertwin 6900. I bought it used at a price I couldn't beat and although it is a great sprayer, the material hose is hard to clean. This is why I would say get a DI style pump
the first # on the spray tip is fan and 2nd 2 are orifice. example, if I use a 528, I get a 10" fan or 628 gives me 12...I use 528 or 531 depending on material I spray. If you use mud and spray material about the thickness you would to do a stomp texture or tape, 528 should work fine

As for price, to get into a new rig, your looking at around 4-6k depending on the pump you get. check out all-wall for texture sprayers. and look at the graco and titan's. Another good brand, I hear, is airlessco. If you look at fantastic tools, they sell that model there for you to compare...sl1500 or something like that


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

Thank you Bill for the info, 
I always try to show time estimate and material on our jobs for backlogging info with the owner of the Company. It's that time of the Year again for the Company to buy some new tools, so maybe they might find it would be profitable in the long run to get a sprayer. so who knows I might get the opportunity to trade the roller in and drag a hose.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

proficient Mudder said:


> Thank you Bill for the info,
> I always try to show time estimate and material on our jobs for backlogging info with the owner of the Company. It's that time of the Year again for the Company to buy some new tools, so maybe they might find it would be profitable in the long run to get a sprayer. so who knows I might get the opportunity to trade the roller in and drag a hose.


I'll bet you get a new roller for xmas,and not a 4-6k sprayer :jester:


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## proficient Mudder (Aug 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I'll bet you get a new roller for xmas,and not a 4-6k sprayer :jester:


LMBO, a cheaper roller at that. there writing money off usually doesn't ever make it past personal trucks or tools that can be used on there farms.


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## alltex (Jan 31, 2009)

anyone remember when it was just colled smoothwall?,or is that too old school.when i worked union in the 80s .there was no levels of of quality .it was colled smoothwall the tapers knew how to tape and the painters knew how to put on paint.no back rolling and no spraying ,the union would,nt let them use airlesses.I miss colling it Tape ,double ,finish.It gets too damn complicated now who in hell started all this level B S any how.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

alltex said:


> anyone remember when it was just colled smoothwall?,or is that too old school.when i worked union in the 80s .there was no levels of of quality .it was colled smoothwall the tapers knew how to tape and the painters knew how to put on paint.no back rolling and no spraying ,the union would,nt let them use airlesses.I miss colling it Tape ,double ,finish.It gets too damn complicated now who in hell started all this level B S any how.


So....Once upon a time ,a long long time ago,the painters use to know how to put the paint on 
I hate painters with a passion:furious:
Oh cazna (gh) where are you :jester:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

alltex said:


> anyone remember when it was just colled smoothwall?,or is that too old school.when i worked union in the 80s .there was no levels of of quality .it was colled smoothwall the tapers knew how to tape and the painters knew how to put on paint.no back rolling and no spraying ,the union would,nt let them use airlesses.I miss colling it Tape ,double ,finish.It gets too damn complicated now who in hell started all this level B S any how.


Well back in the day (before my day), it was one swipe up the non tapered join with very little mud, heaps of little nails, the painter sanded it, then wallpaper and stippled ceilings, Until one day some dumb arse decided to paint the walls instead, It all when down hill from there.

So thats why you like me so much 2buck,:jester: im a painter, (but not your average painter at all) :thumbup: Just painters piss me off too, lazy moaning arses they are. They dont prep nothing here or touch up, its not our job they say, be [email protected]#Ked it isnt, As a painter i was taught to repair, make good and prep all surfaces before painting by a english tradesman who liked it right (thank you john) Shame it is not that way with all painters, If i just plaster a house it gives me the sh!ts watching them paint it


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

:jester:nope,,,,never said I liked you cazna,you just remind me of a stray cat that shows up at your door one day,looking for food,so you feel sorry for it and feed it,even if you don't like cats (painters).then they end up sticking around,expecting to get fed all the time.
I actually got 4 of the little free loaders expecting to get fed every morning now, when I go to work:furious:,you make number 5 now cazna
your just a painter that's gone astray ,came to taping (DT) and now needs food for thought.
Thinking justme might be stray # 6:whistling2:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> :jester:nope,,,,never said I liked you cazna,you just remind me of a stray cat that shows up at your door one day,looking for food,so you feel sorry for it and feed it,even if you don't like cats (painters).then they end up sticking around,expecting to get fed all the time.
> I actually got 4 of the little free loaders expecting to get fed every morning now, when I go to work:furious:,you make number 5 now cazna
> your just a painter that's gone astray ,came to taping (DT) and now needs food for thought.
> Thinking justme might be stray # 6:whistling2:


 ,,,,,:whistling2:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

2buckcanuck said:


> your just a painter that's gone astray ,came to taping (DT) and now needs food for thought.
> Thinking justme might be stray # 6:whistling2:


What gave me away? 

As for food for thought, your router bit idea for trimming the backsides of boards needs work, O Wise One. :jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

JustMe said:


> What gave me away?
> 
> As for food for thought, your router bit idea for trimming the backsides of boards needs work, O Wise One. :jester:


meOW!!!another painter


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I'd knew you'd figure it out 

wheres scott?

I think u fed him too


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Mudstar said:


> I'd knew you'd figure it out
> 
> wheres scott?
> 
> I think u fed him too


MUDSTAR your back !!!!!!!!!!!arty:
I'm sure lots of people on here have food for thought to give to you:yes:
cazna,,,,your best buddy is back:whistling2:


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