# California ice patch



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

California patch is old school and now out of date:whistling2: I have no need for the California patch for repair work now.
this works great and fast
if the hole is 4'' this is my ice patch
1 cut drywall 4'' square 
2 place 4'' square over hole and cut out
3 cut a 6'' square of ff out and spray trim tex glue over the center of the 4'' patch
5 spray glue around hole and on the back side of the ff patch and stick to wall/ wipe patch tight with knife 
4 glue will dry fast so you can use ap mud no need to mix durabond because you only need a two light coat of mud to finish it and the skim coats dry fast
it could be called the California ice patch:thumbup:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Try it with just ff and 5 minute.... faster


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> Try it with just ff and 5 minute.... faster


I have and its not faster...sorry. from start to finish I like my way and if you try it you will see...Its also stronger. its so strong you can not pull two scraps of rock apart with your hands if you use 5 min or any kind of mud ...well it don't pass the pull test.:yes:


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> California patch is old school and now out of date:whistling2: I have no need for the California patch for repair work now.
> this works great and fast
> if the hole is 4'' this is my ice patch
> 1 cut drywall 4'' square
> ...



now now now just Ice will do.... pleeeeese


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## MUDBONE (Dec 26, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> California patch is old school and now out of date:whistling2: I have no need for the California patch for repair work now.
> this works great and fast
> if the hole is 4'' this is my ice patch
> 1 cut drywall 4'' square
> ...


Nice ice!


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Used it. It works great.
Thanks Ice. You da man.


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## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

crazy now when I do it and peeps see it I will tell em its an Ice patch










Started right here on dwt


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> I have and its not faster...sorry. from start to finish I like my way and if you try it you will see...Its also stronger. its so strong you can not pull two scraps of rock apart with your hands if you use 5 min or any kind of mud ...well it don't pass the pull test.:yes:


 I agree with finisher. 5 min. mud will dry before the glue and all the glue on patch will cause bubbles. You can also buff the 5 min. patch while its setting and get it smooth as glass. A 4" patch does not require much strength, heck I would use mesh:yes:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

chris said:


> I agree with finisher. 5 min. mud will dry before the glue and all the glue on patch will cause bubbles. You can also buff the 5 min. patch while its setting and get it smooth as glass. A 4" patch does not require much strength, heck I would use mesh:yes:


In no circumstance will regular mud allow a second coat faster than 5 minute :blink:. I don't need all those steps... Just walk in with a pan of 5 minute and a piece of FF and walk out 5 minutes later. Generally with 5 minute you can get away with one coat because you can buff it while it is setting and get it perfectly flat and smooth. And if I need a second coat I can throw a tight skim of a/p or whatever I want. Have already done well over a hundred patches this way with no problems. Chris is right with what he said.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

chris said:


> I agree with finisher. 5 min. mud will dry before the glue and all the glue on patch will cause bubbles. You can also buff the 5 min. patch while its setting and get it smooth as glass. A 4" patch does not require much strength, heck I would use mesh:yes:


Trim tex 847 glue will NOT make the mud bubble...your nuts ///if it did It would make the trim tex corners bubble on its 2nd coat....also if your patch is over a door knob hole you want strength...don't you? 

And the 4'' was just a example on how to do the process:wallbash:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> In no circumstance will regular mud allow a second coat faster than 5 minute :blink:. I don't need all those steps... Just walk in with a pan of 5 minute and a piece of FF and walk out 5 minutes later. Generally with 5 minute you can get away with one coat because you can buff it while it is setting and get it perfectly flat and smooth. And if I need a second coat I can throw a tight skim of a/p or whatever I want. Have already done well over a hundred patches this way with no problems. Chris is right with what he said.


o yes ...a skim coat is all you need....if you patch your way you are coating so yes you need 5 min ...I only need a skim coat so less mud is needed and If I need that to dry I just use a blower! not saying the old way is not good I have don't it that way from 1989 to 2013 and it works...I just like my new way and wanted to let my friends from DWT know the ice way!


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

10-4 ice. Not taking a jab at your method. Just saying there is a faster way. No sheetrock needed, no glue needed, no heat gun needed....


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> 10-4 ice. Not taking a jab at your method. Just saying there is a faster way. No sheetrock needed, no glue needed, no heat gun needed....


I don't need a heat gun...just a skim but you could if you needed...I know your one of the best...just try it one time them post back


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> I don't need a heat gun...just a skim but you could if you needed...I know your one of the best...just try it one time them post back


I think everyone thinks they are one of the best. Just saying I do a ton of patchwork so I have found what is fastest. For smaller holes I dont need to cut and measure any rock or keep spray glue with me. While you are walking out of the house with your measurement to cut a small piece of rock I would be walking in with 5 minute and a piece of ff. By the time you walk back in my patch would be coated. By the time you get everything glued and ready my patch is set up. Now I can flatten it out and polish it up. Now your method might be something I would try with a larger patch when I dont have any dead wood. I know your method will work just fine but I'm just saying its not faster under these circumstances.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I think everyone thinks they are one of the best. Just saying I do a ton of patchwork so I have found what is fastest. For smaller holes I dont need to cut and measure any rock or keep spray glue with me. While you are walking out of the house with your measurement to cut a small piece of rock I would be walking in with 5 minute and a piece of ff. By the time you walk back in my patch would be coated. By the time you get everything glued and ready my patch is set up. Now I can flatten it out and polish it up. Now your method might be something I would try with a larger patch when I dont have any dead wood. I know your method will work just fine but I'm just saying its not faster under these circumstances.


 4'' was just a example on how to do the process:wallbash:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

4'' was just a example on how to do the process:wallbash:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

I have done this method on much larger patches, even on the ceiling. May need 2 layers of ff where necessary. This is the perfect way to fix can light holes. Couple layers of ff with 5 minute and your good to go. I have thought about using the spray glue before with the ff but cant think of a benefit over using 5 minute as a bonder


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## D A Drywall (May 4, 2013)

How are you mixing small batches of 5 min for little patches? And up to what size hole will you cover with just Fuse? Nothing behind it?


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

D A Drywall said:


> How are you mixing small batches of 5 min for little patches? And up to what size hole will you cover with just Fuse? Nothing behind it?


I mix all 5 minute in my 14" pan. The key sometimes is to add a scoop of a/p to it. This will make it smoother, stick better, and have more workability. As for size I have done some large enough I should feel bad for not having rock behind it . A can light sized hole in the ceiling is a good rule or perhaps a 8"x8" hole on the wall. Now I have done way bigger with perfect results but this would be a good rule. Another good thing about fuse is you can use it for really large patches with rock that have really bad offsets. You can put a/p on the patch to make it flat then you can put a solid piece of ff over it. Then gently wipe it down. At this point your patch is flat and has fuse over it. Now you cant coat the ff with durabond and then skim with a/p


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I mix all 5 minute in my 14" pan. The key sometimes is to add a scoop of a/p to it. This will make it smoother, stick better, and have more workability. As for size I have done some large enough I should feel bad for not having rock behind it . A can light sized hole in the ceiling is a good rule or perhaps a 8"x8" hole on the wall. Now I have done way bigger with perfect results but this would be a good rule. Another good thing about fuse is you can use it for really large patches with rock that have really bad offsets. You can put a/p on the patch to make it flat then you can put a solid piece of ff over it. Then gently wipe it down. At this point your patch is flat and has fuse over it. Now you cant coat the ff with durabond and then skim with a/p


mix mix mix


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> As for size I have done some large enough I should feel bad for not having rock behind it . A can light sized hole in the ceiling is a good rule or perhaps a 8"x8" hole on the wall. Now I have done way bigger with perfect results but this would be a good rule.


Couldn't keep my fingers still for this one. Now I understand YOUR low rates. Half assed job=half the pay.

I feel even worse for many of you now.:blink:


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Hey finisher, put some blue tint and glue on the mix and you will have everybody on here pissed at you....lol.:jester:

Seriously though I've patched some pretty nasty stuff with Fibafuse as well. My rule of thumb is if it is stronger than the original rock it is good to go.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

mld said:


> Hey finisher, put some blue tint and glue on the mix and you will have everybody on here pissed at you....lol.:jester:
> 
> Seriously though I've patched some pretty nasty stuff with Fibafuse as well. My rule of thumb is if it is stronger than the original rock it is good to go.


that works ...mix mudmax with ezsand and you don't need tint. the glue will change the color:thumbup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I use ff with ezsand...not saying I don't like it
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Icerock-Drywall/172599606120624
I used a 6'' roll off ff and 20 to fix a bad corner


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Anybody else use the new formula EZ sand yet?

Got three bags of 45 from my supplier, very smooth and doesn't sag out like some others.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

mld said:


> Anybody else use the new formula EZ sand yet?
> 
> Got three bags of 45 from my supplier, very smooth and doesn't sag out like some others.


http://drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=4716


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## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

????


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

mudslingr said:


> Couldn't keep my fingers still for this one. Now I understand YOUR low rates. Half assed job=half the pay.
> 
> I feel even worse for many of you now.:blink:


You should try it this way...our low rates are actually the highest in the area. And our board prices have nothing to do with patching lol. Bet my patches will come out better than yours in half the time. Called working smarter :yes:


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I have issues when I patch with ff when I put mud over the whole im patching it wants to bulge out and not stay flat. Any idea what causes that. alot of the time I wait for it to dry before i put another coat on it.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

A smooth finish said:


> I have issues when I patch with ff when I put mud over the whole im patching it wants to bulge out and not stay flat. Any idea what causes that. alot of the time I wait for it to dry before i put another coat on it.


I will say it again, the KEY to this method is to use quickset/durabond. I prefer 5 minute. Coat it out and let it bulge... when it sets up pretty pretty hard take a stiff 6" knife or whatever you want and flatten it out. You should be able to get it perfectly flat no problem. If the hole is a bit larger sandwich 2 pieces of fuse on the patch for added strength. You cannot do this method with an air dry mud.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

A smooth finish said:


> I have issues when I patch with ff when I put mud over the whole im patching it wants to bulge out and not stay flat. Any idea what causes that. alot of the time I wait for it to dry before i put another coat on it.


Try this, just yesterday I patched 3 holes grouped together, wastepipe and 2 water pipes, the biggest about 50mm (2"), I used 20min set, mixed it thicker than normal for fibabfuse, wiped it into the edge around the hole and built up enough to almost fill the hole, then I buttered the back of a 8" x 8" patch of fibafuse with a thick layer of mud and then dry wiped it in as hard as I could and left it to set, I think the trick was to not put more mud over the fuse until it has set because it didn't bulge at all like it normally does.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> Try this, just yesterday I patched 3 holes grouped together, wastepipe and 2 water pipes, the biggest about 50mm (2"), I used 20min set, mixed it thicker than normal for fibabfuse, wiped it into the edge around the hole and built up enough to almost fill the hole, then I buttered the back of a 8" x 8" patch of fibafuse with a thick layer of mud and then dry wiped it in as hard as I could and left it to set, I think the trick was to not put more mud over the fuse until it has set because it didn't bulge at all like it normally does.


Yes! This way works well also. Quickset and fibafuse can fix some pretty nasty stuff.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

working on something new...cant wait to post it:yes:


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

icerock drywall said:


> working on something new...cant wait to post it:yes:


 Awaiting your new invention/method :thumbsup:. Even though I was giving you a hard time with the last one, I always look forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

icerock drywall said:


> working on something new...cant wait to post it:yes:


Aw come on Ice stop teasing us, just tell me......I won't tell anyone :whistling2:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Aw come on Ice stop teasing us, just tell me......I won't tell anyone :whistling2:


I just picked up the tool today! I will take photos soon:yes:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Gee whiz...this is the first thread I've read in forever and y'all are still at it. Ice comes in with a new metbod and instead of saying "hmmm, I can see how that could be useful in some situations" you tell him how much better it is when you do it your way. I've been wondering about ff and glue and I'm glad someone took the time to mess with it.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> Gee whiz...this is the first thread I've read in forever and y'all are still at it. Ice comes in with a new metbod and instead of saying "hmmm, I can see how that could be useful in some situations" you tell him how much better it is when you do it your way. I've been wondering about ff and glue and I'm glad someone took the time to mess with it.


No doubt that way will work fine. I just said it is faster to do it the other way and pointed out how it would be faster. Not knocking the effectiveness of the method, just the speed at which it could be done. Same thing with saying a bazooka is faster than a banjo or vice versa. No big deal, I always look forward to what he comes up with.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Gee whiz...this is the first thread I've read in forever and y'all are still at it. Ice comes in with a new metbod and instead of saying "hmmm, I can see how that could be useful in some situations" you tell him how much better it is when you do it your way. I've been wondering about ff and glue and I'm glad someone took the time to mess with it.


thanks...a lot DWT brother and it is fast the glue sets faster then 5 min mud and there is no cure time:yes:..I am doing a time study on it now and a faster way to cut the drywall out and put a new icepatch in :thumbup:

spray glue on the wall and on the patch takes a long time:blink:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Well bugger me...Old Slimbo's back, where you been hiding Slim?


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Well bugger me...Old Slimbo's back, where you been hiding Slim?


Shee-it, I kinda forgot all about this website! Add to that the fact that I've hardly touched any drywall in a good long while. My inernet went away for a month a few months back, and when it came back on I hardly bothered to use it any more. But now I got me one o' them smartypants phones (although I gotta say...this site is a little rough for my tiny computer) and the internet is all up in my face.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

this is an old icepatch...the first one and it was in a bad spot because the ****ter was there but I hade to try it. I did all steps with one coat of ap under 20mins and there was a pipe in the way.:yes: the size of it could be bigger but the time would still be the same. I will be showing my other ones soon


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Gee whiz...this is the first thread I've read in forever and y'all are still at it. Ice comes in with a new metbod and instead of saying "hmmm, I can see how that could be useful in some situations" you tell him how much better it is when you do it your way. I've been wondering about ff and glue and I'm glad someone took the time to mess with it.


Ahhh, the voice of reason is back. We're just a bunch of dumb arses Slim, remember ! ? Good to know you're still around.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> You should try it this way...our low rates are actually the highest in the area. And our board prices have nothing to do with patching lol. Bet my patches will come out better than yours in half the time. Called working smarter :yes:



Didn't mean to sound like an ass. Just think that we as drywallers should replace the drywall in a large patch with drywall instead of band aiding it imo.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

icerock drywall said:


> this is an old icepatch...the first one and it was in a bad spot because the ****ter was there but I hade to try it. I did all steps with one coat of ap under 20mins and there was a pipe in the way.:yes: the size of it could be bigger but the time would still be the same. I will be showing my other ones soon


Hmm, that looks like a do not disturb sign. Template possibility ?:thumbsup:


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

playing... one coat


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Shee-it, I kinda forgot all about this website! Add to that the fact that I've hardly touched any drywall in a good long while. My inernet went away for a month a few months back, and when it came back on I hardly bothered to use it any more. But now I got me one o' them smartypants phones (although I gotta say...this site is a little rough for my tiny computer) and the internet is all up in my face.


You had me worried Slim!


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

here is my new cutting tool.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I did not hang this ...and did not need to add wood to fix it.


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

http://drywalltalk.com/showthread.php?t=4655 this was the start of the ice patch


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I added some new photos


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

the ice patch is flatter than the California patch. less mud with skim coats


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

one more today


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