# 4 inch angle head



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

does any one run a 4 inch angle head was thinking about gouging with a 3 than finishing with a 4 right now finishing with a 3 on a mudrunner .


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I'm assuming your using bte or can am heads if you mention a 4",I would not get a 4".go to a 31/2,I could explain why,but need to know what make of heads you got 1st


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

sdrdrywall said:


> does any one run a 4 inch angle head was thinking about gouging with a 3 than finishing with a 4 right now finishing with a 3 on a mudrunner .


 If your using a 3 on a mudrunner for your first coat (or anything else for that matter) use a 2 1/2 to finish with.

Or buy a 3 1/2 to first coat with and then use your 3 to finish with.

JMO


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Sometimes i use my G2 3.5 angle head which is actually about 3.85 on the mudrunner and its great, I would have no hesitation using a 4 inch angle head with the mudrunner, it would smoke it and do a sweet job :thumbsup: If you have flushers then you must be using direct flushers if its on a runner, that would mean you have to push in the corner more than if you were using angle heads.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Sometimes i use my G2 3.5 angle head which is actually about 3.85 on the mudrunner and its great, I would have no hesitation using a 4 inch angle head with the mudrunner, it would smoke it and do a sweet job :thumbsup: If you have flushers then you must be using direct flushers if its on a runner, that would mean you have to push in the corner more than if you were using angle heads.


would half to disagree cazna,the runners are in the same position on the 4" and the 31/2".do you get what I mean,or do I half to do a lot of typing
think about it:whistling2:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> would half to disagree cazna,the runners are in the same position on the 4" and the 31/2".do you get what I mean,or do I half to do a lot of typing
> think about it:whistling2:


Think you might have to type some more, sorry 2buck, My G2 is nearly a 4 and its sweet, does a great job, my 3.5 DM bone head speed wheel is great as well but sometimes that extra little bit is helpful if the corners a bit out of square or im trying to fill more for the tapered edge both work great with no issue, so you must know something i dont, Do tell Master:thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Think you might have to type some more, sorry 2buck, My G2 is nearly a 4 and its sweet, does a great job, my 3.5 DM bone head speed wheel is great as well but sometimes that extra little bit is helpful if the corners a bit out of square or im trying to fill more for the tapered edge both work great with no issue, so you must know something i dont, Do tell Master:thumbsup:


I bought a 4" once,and It was a pain inn the butt to push,and well I was running it,I got to thinking it did not look that much bigger than my 31/2",so I got my 3 1/2" out,set it over top of a angel I flushed,and it was the same size,and when I held both heads up together the runners were in the same position,get what I mean
Or last week I bought a new 3 1/2,but I didn't like where the runners were sitting,they looked like the position/width was same as a 3",turns out the supply store switched to can am from bte,find out tomorrow though.
so you could buy a 4 but it may push out like a 3 1/2,it's in how wide apart the runners are,not the wing size
so always keep your old flusher to compare to the new one your buying.
need more typing:whistling2:


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## taper71 (Dec 9, 2007)

Cazna s talking about angle heads 2 buck not flushers.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

taper71 said:


> Cazna s talking about angle heads 2 buck not flushers.


 
Yes i was talking about angle heads and not flushers taper71 :thumbsup:

I have a 3.5 cam am flusher as well, Indirect, And you need to push in and along with that and keep constant pressure inwards or it will leave the mud and centre of corners all at different levels and rounded, I would imagine a 4 inch flusher may need more force???

Give me the runner and angle head any day, its the best combo, hardly any pushing inwards and with the mud flowing it kind of floats and slips along with minimal effort and leaves great full even consistant sharp corners with great tape coverage and minimal sanding, and fast, did i mention how fast it can be?? It would laugh at a 4inch angle head. Ha Ha Ha it would say, is that all ya got, In fact if there was a 5inch anglehead i reckon the runner could cope with that to, but no need for one that big as we all know. :thumbup:


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> I'm assuming your using bte or can am heads if you mention a 4",I would not get a 4".go to a 31/2,I could explain why,but need to know what make of heads you got 1st


I think Tape Worm makes a 4" angle head.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Muddauber said:


> I think Tape Worm makes a 4" angle head.


Goldblatt g2 does as well.


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

Can-Am 3" flushers are actually more like 3.2", 
B-T-E 3" is actually 3.1, 
B-T-E 3.5" is actually more like 3.4.

a 4" is quite large, you're going to notice burning through more mud for no real reason. My opinion... a 3.5 is as big as you should ever really need to go.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

sdrdrywall said:


> does any one run a 4 inch angle head was thinking about gouging with a 3 than finishing with a 4 right now finishing with a 3 on a mudrunner .


Beyond a certain point, the wider the angle head, the more potential to create mud finishing problems. Just my view.

3" wide is all I've found I need.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

McDusty said:


> Can-Am 3" flushers are actually more like 3.2",
> B-T-E 3" is actually 3.1,
> B-T-E 3.5" is actually more like 3.4.
> 
> a 4" is quite large, you're going to notice burning through more mud for no real reason. My opinion... a 3.5 is as big as you should ever really need to go.


hey mcdusty,ran a 3 1/2 can am today,think you may be right,looked real good when I flushed today,nice tight edge,looks better than the bte,will be sanding it tomorrow,so will find out for sure then:thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

JustMe said:


> 3" wide is all I've found I need.


One thing I should mention here is that pretty much all my work is commercial, using mostly all steel studs. Things are straight in the angles in most instances. If yours aren't, maybe some size other than 3" could be better(?)

Has anyone found a noticeable drying time increase in the corners when stepping up to sizes like 3 1/2 and 4"?


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

i use a drywall master3.5 bonehead with wheels while i am taping and boxing corners ...and i finish coat with a bonehead 2.5 with wheels on a mudrunner. glazing out..perfect results everytime no heavy edge no paper shining through..and when you stright edge into the corner it is flat no roll where the corner is built up..i know lots of finishers do the sizes opposite of how i do ....and so did i ..untill the tool tech at allwall explaned to me that was how those tools were designed to be used.i tried it that way..great results..hope this helps some else


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## nz drywaller (Dec 24, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> If your using a 3 on a mudrunner for your first coat (or anything else for that matter) use a 2 1/2 to finish with.
> 
> Or buy a 3 1/2 to first coat with and then use your 3 to finish with.
> 
> JMO


can you please explain why you use these in that order capt,i thought you would use the smaller then larger head.i have cam am flushers in that size but havnt used them for a while.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> i use a drywall master3.5 bonehead with wheels while i am taping and boxing corners ...and i finish coat with a bonehead 2.5 with wheels on a mudrunner. glazing out..perfect results everytime no heavy edge no paper shining through..and when you stright edge into the corner it is flat no roll where the corner is built up..i know lots of finishers do the sizes opposite of how i do ....and so did i ..untill the tool tech at allwall explaned to me that was how those tools were designed to be used.i tried it that way..great results..hope this helps some else





nz drywaller said:


> can you please explain why you use these in that order capt,i thought you would use the smaller then larger head.i have cam am flushers in that size but havnt used them for a while.


Most people do think its the 2inch first, but as smisner50s puts it, He use to do it 2.5 first then the 3.5, but the 3.5 then the 2.5 works well, Im doing it the same as smisner50s, bone heads and a runner :thumbsup: Finishing with th 2.5 is so smooth fast and easy, I cant explain why though, It just works. Not sure about doin this with flushers though??


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## nz drywaller (Dec 24, 2010)

ok thanks for that mate,will try that way in some w/drodes and garages to see how it runs


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

The mud collectors on the 2.5 head are not big enough to box out with ..most of your taping mud will end up on the ground not on the wall were it belongs. That is why u use the 3.5 heads for boxing..it will gather all the mud and fill the wall not the ground..this is my own trick I do works great..but maby a:thumbup: bit over kill..when Im taping I will u
se my angle box with my taping mud to box with ..it fills every thing good glids nicely over the wall...i did not like just useing the the head on just the poll..i hold my work to a high level of quality...so how ever I can make the work go faster and better im up for trying


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> The mud collectors on the 2.5 head are not big enough to box out with ..most of your taping mud will end up on the ground not on the wall were it belongs. That is why u use the 3.5 heads for boxing..it will gather all the mud and fill the wall not the ground..this is my own trick I do works great..but maby a:thumbup: bit over kill..when Im taping I will u
> se my angle box with my taping mud to box with ..it fills every thing good glids nicely over the wall...i did not like just useing the the head on just the poll..i hold my work to a high level of quality...so how ever I can make the work go faster and better im up for trying


You can use the runner with a 3.5 behind the zooka for taping followed by the 2.5 on the runner for finishing like the capt does.

Im not quite sure what your saying above?? Did you say you are using the 3.5 on the anglebox behind the zooka with taping mud for wipe down then finishing with the 2.5 on the zooka??? Thats the only prob with doing the 3.5 first, if your using taping mud then it wont work out to well, You need to tape the corners with regular mud, which can be a hassel if you have done your flats with taping and need to change pumps and mud just for a few upright corners if your coving.

I have a small finish pro 2inch head, sometimes i wipe down with that behind the zooka with taping mud, then 3.5 on the runner then finish with the 2.5 on the runner, this will build up a fuller corner if there is a lot of beveled edges, It works with the 2.5 the the 3.5 to finish as well but this can build up a thicker edge.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

that is what i ment..lookes like me and the capt do it the same way..:thumbup:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Its perplexing to move from hand finishing to tools. Tools do the same thing, everytime, hands do not. If your tools are adjusted correctly, they don't leave any edges, so the "smaller, than bigger" mindset of hand finishing no longer applies. 

I have a 7" DM box and an 8" columbia "fat-boy" box. I use the 8 over the tape cause a fat-boy carries so much more mud. On occasion, when that coat shrinks too much, I'll run the 7 box next, to fill the shrink. Thats foriegn to hand finishing thinking, but since the boxes don't leave an edge, it works fine.

Thats the same reason that useing a bigger head, followed by a smaller head works,,,, If they are "set" right, they don't leave an edge.


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## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

My Father uses a 3.5 columbia then a 2.5 columbia in canada it works really well.. but also i found that you gotta start with at least a 3 inch head to make sure the beavel is full the first time... in austalia i use a tape pro tube that comes fully apart for cleaning purposes and the first coat i use a 3 inch head with a base coat (Hott Mudd) then after everything is coated and topped i run the 3.5 columbia head with topping mud to cover the base coat... using a larger than smaller head then topping over a base mudd would be stupid cause you cant sand base mudd so you need to cover it all then you can sand it... also a trick that my dad tought me is to skim angles with a 5 or 6 inch knife down each side cancels out the line cut in flats and other mud locations and also makes sanding and your angles or (internals) in aussie perfect... cheers


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

I've got a head like a ping pong ball ....................................


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## michel1949 (Jul 21, 2010)

*3 inches 1st then 2 1/2 to finish the angles*

hi there folks

i was talking with a guy that has been using automatic tools for over 20 years
this guy said he used 3 inches to flush and 2 /12 inches to finish
the reason is the 3 inches will fill the bevels and when he uses the 2 1/2 to finish
its easier to push and makes longer with his angle box


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