# Type of finish you do on drywall for knock Down



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

:whistling2::jester::jester::jester:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Got into a huge fight with my DWT today:furious:, not sure if I still have a job

So just wondering, how do you guys finish your ceilings, when you know they are going to get a knock down spray.

I pre-fill CD board first, but not if it's regular half inch, then I do the chase with the 10" box (double up) then sand edges when dry. And here's where the argument came, I do one coat on the screws, with straight stiff mud out of the box, and he was trying to demand 2 coats.

So just wondering what type of finish you guys do


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Personally, I like to see a L5 before knockdown. No one else will notice the difference between that and a L3, but I'll KNOW it's there....and that's what's really important.


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Prefill butts, box with 8", rough sand, box with 10"", cross off, sand, spray and then knockdown. Oh ya two coats on the screws. Same thing for hand texture except no final sand. Sometimes depending on the contractor I go 10", 12" on the boxing


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## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

I do the same exact process I would if I was sanding my ceilings smooth. Except I only do 2 coats on the screws and I don't sand the ceiling at all.

So if for some reason the home owner changes their mind about wanting a knockdown, I just have to hit my screws once and I'm good to sand.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

But seriously...it doesn't matter what your process is.....if it will pass. However, if it doesn't pass, it's on you to fix it........at your expense.

We liked to see the guys give 2 coats on screws when I was running subs, but it wasn't enforced. They knew though, that if we got a call from one of the GCs that he could see screws everywhere they were going to be doing some skimming on their dime. Seems like it's worth the extra hour to run through and hit them again.....


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I do the same exact process I would if I was sanding my ceilings smooth. Except I only do 2 coats on the screws and I don't sand the ceiling at all.
> 
> So if for some reason the home owner changes their mind about wanting a knockdown, I just have to hit my screws once and I'm good to sand.


Yes but, your setting yourself up for a what if scenario, or covering your bases.....

Here, we have spray guys who come in after us and do the spray. So part of my argument today was"fine,ill start doing my own spray then"

Also, was trying to explain to him, that if you use taping mud(runny mud) you would half to coat your screws again. What type of mud you use to coat your screws makes a difference. Runny mud will shrink back more....

Plus a popcorn/texture spray to me is more dangerous than a KD. If someone did a very lite spray with popcorn, your taping job almost has to be a finish for paint, so yes 2 coats on the screws. But KD applies a film on the whole sheet. Hell, make a long story short, seen a job this summer, where the spray guy had to do a ceiling where some of the screws had no coat at all, they got covered. If you searched really hard, you could find where they were, but no home owner could pick that out. So what home owner is going to notice there's one coat on the screws....

Mud type on the screws makes a difference IMO


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Personally, I like to see a L5 before knockdown. No one else will notice the difference between that and a L3, but I'll KNOW it's there....and that's what's really important.


Can you show us a picture of the sledge hammer you use to kill flies with:thumbup::whistling2:


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## Perkcon (Nov 25, 2012)

I would agree with 2buck one coat on the screws with stiff and or hot mud is good for knock down. Our spray guys spray it so damn thick not sure it I even had to coat the tapes... Then again I had a GC who wanted a L5 every where regardless of finish. douche. and the bag it came in. Its a glass half full or half empty to some.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

When we did a good bit of Knock down, we wouldn't tell our finishers we were going to texture it as we didn't want them to skimp on the finish. 3 coats on the screws regardless! Most every house we do gets elaborate crown moulding on them and we make all our finishers run the top angles regardless. We aren't in to cutting corners. You can see corners cut on older texture jobs such as on popcorn ceilings when people used to not run the ceiling side of the angle and leave the tape exposed. Now that is the first thing to peel from the ceiling. If it had been coated there wouldn't be a problem. I know this doesn't pertain to knock down, but it is just a thought.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Can you show us a picture of the sledge hammer you use to kill flies with:thumbup::whistling2:


I don't use a sledgehammer, that's too much work. (!)

Instead I call these guys and get the hell out of the way....


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

One run with the 10' box and one coat on the screws with stiff mud like 2 buck says. That works fine when you primer first then spray.


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> Got into a huge fight with my DWT today:furious:, not sure if I still have a job
> 
> So just wondering, how do you guys finish your ceilings, when you know they are going to get a knock down spray.
> 
> ...


I do one coat on the screws, 10 load 12 finish. second coat butts get 0 setting on each side of the tape then on finish i do 0 setting dowen the middle and 2 setting on each side. rough sand and kiss my as


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

It depends what you are being paid to do. If your price per foot or price per board is lower than normal then give them what they paid for. If its normal then give them normal. If its hourly then who gives a chit, right. I wouldnt feel right skipping a coat on any finish that gets paint. Knockdown is a PITA to patch so better get it right the first time. But I will admit a KD can hide some pretty chitty work


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Tape It ,,then spray it!!! That's what the popcorn guys do!!!:yes:


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

I haven't done a popcorn or knockdown in 20 years but when I used to we always 2 coated screws just in case. Doesn't take that long and helps you sleep a little easier I guess.


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

3 coats on all seams......2 on screws ....no sanding if ceiling is getting textured.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

chris said:


> It depends what you are being paid to do. If your price per foot or price per board is lower than normal then give them what they paid for. If its normal then give them normal. If its hourly then who gives a chit, right. I wouldnt feel right skipping a coat on any finish that gets paint. Knockdown is a PITA to patch so better get it right the first time. But I will admit a KD can hide some pretty chitty work


We agree upon something:thumbup:

One part that is going on is the winter slow down , suddenly the builder and DWC have more time on their hands, and they have nothing better to do but to pick apart your work. It all started with the builder, SHE noticed the ceiling joints were not as wide as the wall joints. For the past 10 years or more have been running the same system{pre-fill(if cd rock), tape, double 10" well wet(hour in between coats) single coat on screws with straight stiff mud or half ap Hotmud mix.Angles are flushed out, and I do my butts the same as DLSdrywall does in his post, 3 ways polished.. Lite sand on everything. 

Now the DWC says from now on, flats are to be 10 and 12 inched, finished sanded, screws 2 coats............. bottom line were one coat less on the screws from being a finish ceiling for paint. Finished ceilings we get 3 cents more (which aint worth it)... so just like that I get extra work loaded on my plate..

Spray guy shows up, says he can't spray it, ask if he's ever had a problem with my work before,,, says no,,, but if there is this time,,,, then his arse is on the line,,,, ok ,,, can't blame him

Union rep shows up (old high school buddy) same thing with him,,, he was like "Rick your right, but what do you want me to do?"

Screw them all:furious:, got clowns shining flash lights down the walls as it is, and now they expect perfect level 4 work (minus one coat on screws) for ceilings that get a heavy KD spray

Going to take 2 weeks off, take the phone off the hook, and weigh my options..... getting sick of this trade:furious:


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Going to take 2 weeks off, take the phone off the hook, and weigh my options..... getting sick of this trade:furious:


:thumbsup:


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## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> We agree upon something:thumbup:
> 
> One part that is going on is the winter slow down , suddenly the builder and DWC have more time on their hands, and they have nothing better to do but to pick apart your work. It all started with the builder, SHE noticed the ceiling joints were not as wide as the wall joints. For the past 10 years or more have been running the same system{pre-fill(if cd rock), tape, double 10" well wet(hour in between coats) single coat on screws with straight stiff mud or half ap Hotmud mix.Angles are flushed out, and I do my butts the same as DLSdrywall does in his post, 3 ways polished.. Lite sand on everything.
> 
> ...


I totally agree, thats exactly how i feel. Here in our area they go nuts on the checkout. Thats why i'm applying for a union rep job, more responsibility less work same pay every week:yes: With taping piecework they squeeze every bit of work for a little price. When the summer comes you could tape out the ceilings say its ready for spray and you woulden't hear anything about it lol


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## getplastered (Jan 3, 2012)

2buckcanuck said:


> We agree upon something:thumbup:
> 
> One part that is going on is the winter slow down , suddenly the builder and DWC have more time on their hands, and they have nothing better to do but to pick apart your work. It all started with the builder, SHE noticed the ceiling joints were not as wide as the wall joints. For the past 10 years or more have been running the same system{pre-fill(if cd rock), tape, double 10" well wet(hour in between coats) single coat on screws with straight stiff mud or half ap Hotmud mix.Angles are flushed out, and I do my butts the same as DLSdrywall does in his post, 3 ways polished.. Lite sand on everything.
> 
> ...


Come work for me!!!! I'll pay you full rate and you can 2 coat your screws!!!


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Coats is what you wears up here's in the mountains!


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Coats are layers of drywall compound applied over fasteners, corner bead, and drywall joints


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

catisred said:


> what is coats? have you try the drywall steel profile, which is much easy for plaster installation with screws.
> 
> cnebp.com


WTF ??


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## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

What do you guys do for a stomp texture. I have a basement job coming up and just wondering how far I really need to take it. Trying to save time and money.


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

For all texturing (besides hand applied and knockdown) we do 2 coats and stripe angles, sand and touchup as needed. Of course its usually commercial over mesh so 2 coats are needed :whistling2: 2bucks dble boxing after 20 mins sitting would work well on flats


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

catisred said:


> to handle the ceiling, just follow up three tips:
> 
> 1.Clean the roof
> 2.Hanging the suspension t grid system or V shape keels
> ...


 
 :blink: :blink:!!!


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## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

I am going to do a tuxture in a house at the end of the week...I am going to call it a mist tuxture very wet and lots of air and wipe it with my new 14" Adjustable Squeegee Trowel from marshalltown tools :thumbsup: this tool rocks http://www.marshalltown.com/Products.aspx?D=300&S=336&C=C3196


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