# Laminating SCrews Secure?



## Ted White

We spec a good number of walls and ceilings with two and three layers of 5/8" TypeX for soundproofing. Different length standard drywall screws have always been spec'd to go back to original framing (stud, joist or metal track).

Last week a contractor called from a job and insisted on using laminating screws on the third layer. He does this routinely to "have a more stable finish."

Is this a normal practice? Tests that we did with laminating screws a few years ago left me questioning their security and value.


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## grid ninja

i only do win i have to. :ninja:


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## Axecutioner-B

Is 5/8 typeX different from regular 5/8 wallboard ? If not i can't see why anything different from a regular drywall screw would be used. If its good enough for almost every sheet of drywall in America why wouldn't it be good enough for a second or 3rd layer? I don't get it & i don't like it. Just my .02  

Now i will have to do a search to see what a laminate screw & typeX are so i will know if i just put my foot in my mouth 

Ok just checked, Hell no !! I would MUCH rather have the screws & the drywall be attached to the structure rather than to just drywall alone. 
What do i know tho, i only have 2 cents 

Not to mention the screws holding the first layer will have more & more of a load on them after each layer if the additonal layers are only screwed to the first layer & not to the structure. How many layers can the first layer screws hold before they fail if they are supporting the entire load? You know what i mean?
________
Medical Marijuana


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## carpentaper

i think as long as the first two layers go into the stud its fine(if you are doing three layers). thats a lot of screws. you would have to glue the third layer for sure though. it would probably eliminate screw pops due to shrinkage. whatever works as long as it complies with local building codes or engineer specs. those rules are there for a reason. that being said i have no idea if what i just posted is to code i just THINK it would be strong enough. if it was just two layers i think you should always fasten both to the studs and be sure to stagger both horizontal and vertical joints for studs. BTW does anybody else ever use the backer boards with no tapered edges and no finish face for their first layer? i just heard about that stuff but have never seen it. i assume it would be cheaper?


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## carpentaper

stagger both horizontal and vertical joints for fire rating is what i meant. not for stud


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## Ted White

Thanks for all the replies. This is a sound-isolated room and can't use standard construction adhesive. A damping compound is used. 

So the laminating screws alone is clearly not a great idea.


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## drywallOne

Ted White said:


> Thanks for all the replies. This is a sound-isolated room and can't use standard construction adhesive. A damping compound is used.
> 
> So the laminating screws alone is clearly not a great idea.


Laminating screws should not be used to hold drywall up....i think there best when laminating to block or cement ...you drill a 3/16 th hole with a hammer drill then put the laminater in....holds very very well


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## SlimPickins

I've used laminating screws on one lid, and I can't remember why it was "necessary". I think it might have been in the angles where there was no backing behind the other layer due to new partition walls. They work fine on walls, but I don't think they should be used on ceilings unless there is an adhesive of some sort behind. One tip for using them....avoid putting screws in the recess. You'll just be pulling them out when they strip. I've found they work best when I really push at the point of sinking. It's kind of funny holding those big fat screws.


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## SlimPickins

I just re-read your original post...."a more stable finish"? :blink:


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## grid ninja

grid ninja said:


> i only do win i have to. :ninja:


 buy putting a small angle on your lamanater helps to set and hold . and if you are putting mare thin one layers i can angle a long screw to hit a stud. rocked several move theater walls always managed to hit a stud . but maybe he thinks you are missing studs with your regular screws . if laminater is in staled right shooed hold just fine


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## Ted White

Thanks for the comments. Given the fact that (in this particular case) the two sheets of drywall are compressing the Green Glue, standard drywall screws sunk into the studs, channel or joists is the only way to go.


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## DC Contractor

Ted White said:


> Thanks for the comments. Given the fact that (in this particular case) the two sheets of drywall are compressing the Green Glue, standard drywall screws sunk into the studs, channel or joists is the only way to go.



Ten years later, but thought I'd add a quote from Green Glue customer support since I had been considering laminating screws on a soundproofing job to avoid reducing the damping qualities of the compound: "The screws should go all the way into the studs in both cases with the compound. The compound actually need to be under screw pressure to function."

Hopefully this helps anyone with a similar question

-Best

C


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