# Tracing Behind Boxes



## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Do any of you trace or wipe the mud behind the boxes? The first drywall guy that I worked for insisted that everything had to be wiped down behind the boxes. The person running the box was expected to run as fast as he could. The poor guy wiping also got a pretty good workout as well.

The second drywall guy that I worked for had us box at a much slower pace to ensure that the boxing didn't need to be traced. Sometimes you would have to run the joint twice to get a nice clean fill on the first coat.

My opinion is that when tracing behind the boxes the coats look alot better. It also seems faster at times.

What do the rest of you think?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

here's a thread here MT http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/flat-box-size-choices-1631/
personally I trace/chase with the same box size 10 to 15 minutes later.and the faster you go the better.
I have never understood why someone would invest a ton of money in boxes,then chase/trace behind them with a $10 knife that could leave ripples.
boxes run true,with no ripples/waves etc........period:yes:


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

I looked for a thread with a similar title to mine and nothing. Who would have thought...


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

2 buck cold i get you to explain this run it run again boxing system what # s do you run while doing this and what # on the last coat thanks sdr


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## silverstilts (Oct 15, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> here's a thread here MT http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/flat-box-size-choices-1631/
> personally I trace/chase with the same box size 10 to 15 minutes later.and the faster you go the better.
> I have never understood why someone would invest a ton of money in boxes,then chase/trace behind them with a $10 knife that could leave ripples.
> boxes run true,with no ripples/waves etc........period:yes:


:thumbsup: That is spoken like you know what you are doing... I have always tried to teach my men it is a waste of time wiping down when you can run a box and get perfect results. Also i have seen way to many time guys over wiping causing to hollow out the flats. The only thing I carry with me is a very flexible 4" knife now almost three to wipe down the box and clean up any angles where you may get an excess, and the occasional fat edge. Good blades , good shoes, and the right consistency will always do a perfect job.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

sdrdrywall said:


> 2 buck cold i get you to explain this run it run again boxing system what # s do you run while doing this and what # on the last coat thanks sdr


OK,think this is the third time,2 finger typer here,so....
everyone has their own system,this is not something I invented,it's what most guys do where I'm from.I think it evolved from mud being crap along time ago,getting rid of the 7" box and that guy chasing with a knife.there are different ways of doing it.I know one taper who runs a double 8" while wet,then finishes it with a 12".So just saying you can change it up any way you want,so ......
I can't tell you what # to run your boxes at,only you know that,plus the bevell depth could be different from 1/2" to 5/8" and rock brand.
My 10" boxes finish good at #3,say your doing a normal up stairs of a house,run your box at #4 (or #3,experiment)just get your mud on the joints,just go go go,dont worry about lines,wall eyes etc,just get the mud on fast.Once you have ran all the flats,go back to where you have started,and run them again.this time concentrate on quality. 
a few things happen on the second pass,one the 1st coat has shrunk back a bit exposing where the bad shoulders are,so now you know to run boxes high, low ,same path etc to make them level.you will have no porosity/wall eyes/pin holes in your work.your getting 10x the distance out of your box.(less filling up the box)but at this time it's when you start to do your butt joints,don't do butts on your 1st pass/run through house.
in a nut shell,run a joint one day,go back 20 minutes later and run it again,you will go that looks great .no need then for a 7 or 8 inch box now or chasing with a knife.your just double running you box later while it's wet still:yes:
there are many ways,you just half to find what works best for you.
also ,don't do this system in garages etc.......just where you want high quality


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> OK,think this is the third time,2 finger typer here,so....
> everyone has their own system,this is not something I invented,it's what most guys do where I'm from.I think it evolved from mud being crap along time ago,getting rid of the 7" box and that guy chasing with a knife.there are different ways of doing it.I know one taper who runs a double 8" while wet,then finishes it with a 12".So just saying you can change it up any way you want,so ......
> I can't tell you what # to run your boxes at,only you know that,plus the bevell depth could be different from 1/2" to 5/8" and rock brand.
> My 10" boxes finish good at #3,say your doing a normal up stairs of a house,run your box at #4 (or #3,experiment)just get your mud on the joints,just go go go,dont worry about lines,wall eyes etc,just get the mud on fast.Once you have ran all the flats,go back to where you have started,and run them again.this time concentrate on quality.
> ...


 
I have a bit of a problem when boxing the same join twice like that, The very ends of the blade can dig in and tear up the board paper, Worse on the second run as the mud has dampened down the board paper, I have checked and reset the blade often but this still can happen, Any thoughts sir god 2buck?? Master??


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> I have a bit of a problem when boxing the same join twice like that, The very ends of the blade can dig in and tear up the board paper, Worse on the second run as the mud has dampened down the board paper, I have checked and reset the blade often but this still can happen, Any thoughts sir god 2buck?? Master??


Well,remember how you told us how crappy they make your drywall over there,I did this  when I read that post.
Now I did this  when I read this post.
Move to Canada or America:whistling2:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Well,remember how you told us how crappy they make your drywall over there,I did this  when I read that post.
> Now I did this  when I read this post.
> Move to Canada or America:whistling2:


 
Oh great, So im [email protected]#$ed then, Your advice is taking a turn for the worse :jester: I have been wiping a small knife over them to clean it up, Its only on the odd one so so its not so bad, Thats why double boxing can be a headache, One pass with the box seems fine, two your pushing you luck, and dont even think about trying 3, Well with my tape tech easy cleans anyway.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Oh great, So im [email protected]#$ed then, Your advice is taking a turn for the worse :jester: I have been wiping a small knife over them to clean it up, Its only on the odd one so so its not so bad, Thats why double boxing can be a headache, One pass with the box seems fine, two your pushing you luck, and dont even think about trying 3, Well with my tape tech easy cleans anyway.


I think I know your problem cazna ,and it's not you.can you repost the pics where you put the level to the wall,or the link to that thread,do you remember


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> I think I know your problem cazna ,and it's not you.can you repost the pics where you put the level to the wall,or the link to that thread,do you remember


Here you go Master http://www.drywalltalk.com/f2/high-shoulders-1422/


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Here you go Master http://www.drywalltalk.com/f2/high-shoulders-1422/


it was just a thought,you guys use glue alot,so I was thinking your walls do this .....(.......so the blades could be digging in more,maybe a sharpening stone on the points of your blades,just a tiny bit.
besides,your turning into a master now cazna,you give more answers than questions now:thumbsup: your buddy mudstar would be proud of you:yes:
but ill still take pokes at you,rub your walls down with sheep's wool 1st


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> I have a bit of a problem when boxing the same join twice like that, The very ends of the blade can dig in and tear up the board paper, Worse on the second run as the mud has dampened down the board paper, I have checked and reset the blade often but this still can happen, Any thoughts sir god 2buck?? Master??


You might have too much of a bend in your blade Caz.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> it was just a thought,you guys use glue alot,so I was thinking your walls do this .....(.......so the blades could be digging in more,maybe a sharpening stone on the points of your blades,just a tiny bit.
> besides,your turning into a master now cazna,you give more answers than questions now:thumbsup: your buddy mudstar would be proud of you:yes:
> but ill still take pokes at you,rub your walls down with sheep's wool 1st


Well your gonna get a laugh at me about this but what the hell.

I use lanox, which is a lube for the tools, Drywall not my own.

And were does lanox come from........... Austrailia.

And whats it made of...... Lanolin..... And were does Lanolin come from.......... Baaaa Sheeps wool, Lol :thumbup:


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Yesterday I tried the method of going back over the flats with the same size box. I still had to do a minimal amount of wiping at a few of the inside corners. Overall I was happy with the results of this method. By the way I was using my brand new Drywall Master flat boxes. I LOVE THEM. For some reason I had problems getting the lids to lay off good when going over them the second time. I'm sure that it was operator error. Thank you all for the helpful advice and most importantly, the time saving technique.


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## Final touch drywall (Mar 30, 2010)

So you need to run over your joints twice with the boxes to make them look good(Flat):confused1: 
Every machine I have ever followed behind(yrs. ago)I either had to wipe down behind or sand my arse off.:furious:


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

Final touch drywall said:


> So you need to run over your joints twice with the boxes to make them look good(Flat):confused1:
> Every machine I have ever followed behind(yrs. ago)I either had to wipe down behind or sand my arse off.:furious:


The joints looked good on the first pass. On the second pass they layed off smooth as glass. I am new to the method of not wiping but, I think that I am growing to like it.


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## betterdrywall (May 4, 2010)

M T Buckets Painting said:


> The joints looked good on the first pass. On the second pass they layed off smooth as glass. I am new to the method of not wiping but, I think that I am growing to like it.


The material Mix is the Key to a clean box run,, You should only have to clean up on the ends and that should be very little.. If your starting off with Flag marks,, your mud maybe too thin,, or your applying too much pressure. I try and only make one pass ,,,


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## jmr (Mar 22, 2010)

If you have to do ANY work behind your boxes, your boxes arnt running properly. U need to make sure they are on the right setting and crowned properly...


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## thinsack1 (Feb 15, 2011)

is there any GOOD instructional videos out there on how to set up boxes and get started, some of these explanations i follow others leave me cross eyed. not picturing it


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

hey i tried your method today and it worked out sweet thanks man


2buckcanuck said:


> OK,think this is the third time,2 finger typer here,so....
> everyone has their own system,this is not something I invented,it's what most guys do where I'm from.I think it evolved from mud being crap along time ago,getting rid of the 7" box and that guy chasing with a knife.there are different ways of doing it.I know one taper who runs a double 8" while wet,then finishes it with a 12".So just saying you can change it up any way you want,so ......
> I can't tell you what # to run your boxes at,only you know that,plus the bevell depth could be different from 1/2" to 5/8" and rock brand.
> My 10" boxes finish good at #3,say your doing a normal up stairs of a house,run your box at #4 (or #3,experiment)just get your mud on the joints,just go go go,dont worry about lines,wall eyes etc,just get the mud on fast.Once you have ran all the flats,go back to where you have started,and run them again.this time concentrate on quality.
> ...


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> hey i tried your method today and it worked out sweet thanks man


It's the best system to do on stand ups too
your going over a good drywall and framing work,,,,,,Why?????the shoulders are equal in size(white edges) There's 2" of white on the left and right of the joint. Now if you go back to trace your work, and you see a 1/2" on the left, and 3" on the right of the shoulders. Then you know to run the box 3" more to the left. Your making that 10" box work 13" wide now, but it will be level

And I know you did not half to do that Smisner50, you did the framing and rock:jester:

Just letting the newbies know, so when they half to follow bad work:yes:

It's also one of the main reasons I like to trace (double run) the 10". it exposes the bad shoulders to know where to load, and as said before, it gets rid of the 7" box, and porosity .And it looks damn good:thumbsup:

Pictures show so much:yes:


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## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

What are your thoughts on running a 10'' box then having a second guy come behind with a 12'' box after tacks up. is their any disadvantage going bigger on second pass with this system Which if I use I will be calling the 2Buck.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

*material issues*

we have been boxing joints 2x for a while now it seems 15 20 yrs ago it wasnt needed. Never thought do it after you box everything,we just do it 2x at once . I bet giving it dring time may do a better job. We just go 1 way all around room then back {other direction} . We do mainly horizontal joints , standups beat us ole tapers up.Like you said only the bad butts may require this but I think it has something t do with lightweght mud P.S. we still use 8 inch 1rst coat 10 " 2nd coat touch up with 12" knife


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

*1rst or 2nd coat?*



cdwoodcox said:


> What are your thoughts on running a 10'' box then having a second guy come behind with a 12'' box after tacks up. is their any disadvantage going bigger on second pass with this system Which if I use I will be calling the 2Buck.


 dont like the 12" box... overkill


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

:yes:


2buckcanuck said:


> here's a thread here MT http://www.drywalltalk.com/f7/flat-box-size-choices-1631/
> personally I trace/chase with the same box size 10 to 15 minutes later.and the faster you go the better.
> I have never understood why someone would invest a ton of money in boxes,then chase/trace behind them with a $10 knife that could leave ripples.
> boxes run true,with no ripples/waves etc........period:yes:


 true dat


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cdwoodcox said:


> What are your thoughts on running a 10'' box then having a second guy come behind with a 12'' box after tacks up. is their any disadvantage going bigger on second pass with this system Which if I use I will be calling the 2Buck.


Well you got to try it now, if your going to call it the 2buck:thumbup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

chris said:


> dont like the 12" box... overkill


Yes me and the captain would butt heads over this one.
One thing we agreed upon was perception, where you are the GC may be use to a 10" finish, and say looks good. Around where I live, they would say your not done yet, right??? their looking for that wider coat.

Plus I find it leaves a better sanding coat left behind, it still helps to hide somethings, and it's good to use on the butts, and it looks nice, back to perception.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

*butts only*



2buckcanuck said:


> Yes me and the captain would butt heads over this one.
> One thing we agreed upon was perception, where you are the GC may be use to a 10" finish, and say looks good. Around where I live, they would say your not done yet, right??? their looking for that wider coat.
> 
> Plus I find it leaves a better sanding coat left behind, it still helps to hide somethings, and it's good to use on the butts, and it looks nice, back to perception.


 we have a 12" box and it is still brand new will sell cheap. I will agree on butts with 12 " box but prefer final; coat with 12" knife. Alot of guys think yu can do it all with boxes just not me. The ripples or "wavy" look is usually caused by an unsteady hand stiffen up that grip.The picture I saw with all those staundup joints in hallway made my back hurt plus edges looked a little high . Not saying bad work or anything just my opinion:whistling2:


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

chris said:


> we have a 12" box and it is still brand new will sell cheap. I will agree on butts with 12 " box but prefer final; coat with 12" knife. Alot of guys think yu can do it all with boxes just not me. The ripples or "wavy" look is usually caused by an unsteady hand stiffen up that grip.The picture I saw with all those staundup joints in hallway made my back hurt plus edges looked a little high . Not saying bad work or anything just my opinion:whistling2:


I ran them again today with one of those useless 12 box .......man i hope the edges dont look to high...chris any help you can give me ill take...ill even pay for it..plus why do you have a brand new 12 box for sale ....if there no good why even by it....its not like they come in pairs


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## Muddauber (Jan 26, 2008)

Looks good to me smis.:thumbsup:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

*Pretty Sharp*

:thumbup:


smisner50s said:


> I ran them again today with one of those useless 12 box .......man i hope the edges dont look to high...chris any help you can give me ill take...ill even pay for it..plus why do you have a brand new 12 box for sale ....if there no good why even by it....its not like they come in pairs


 Did not mean to offend anyone Wall looked good I must admit:thumbup: I break out the backbreaker[12] from time to time Wedid a school last winter that was level 5 and did a piss coat with it . I just have a hard time putting such a wide coat of mud on a flat .I see you have standups also..not a big fan of those either but everyone has there preference. Really like this site and will check it out and offer any input I can and probably learn a few things too. P.S.I bought a 10 and 12 Northstar from a friend who was becoming a male nurse and gettng out of drywall they did come in set


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Photos of drywall looks heavy in pics, Heres some pics of mine in this thread http://www.drywalltalk.com/f2/coats-screws-422/index3/#post26427 And they said it looked loaded but i assure you the edges are so fine its mearly a stain on the board, The pics lie, Like trying to take a pic or clip of rough sea on a boat, It never looks that rough. Looks great to me smisner :thumbsup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Misner , I've seen your bead . If your butts are as flat as those bead are level, I'd be willing to bet those seams are too. CLEAN work dude.:yes:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

smisner50s said:


> I ran them again today with one of those useless 12 box .......man i hope the edges dont look to high...chris any help you can give me ill take...ill even pay for it..plus why do you have a brand new 12 box for sale ....if there no good why even by it....its not like they come in pairs


Your work looks perfect to me Smis, in fact there's no more need for me to take pics of my own work. From your angles, to your flats, to the way you do your screws, it looks exactly like my work, so it's ,perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect, perfect,very perfect work.:thumbsup:

Others should post pics, it's what cazna said, they look so different than real life, white turns out really different in pictures, it looks really heavy for some reason. And slimpickins said white is very hard to photogragh, and I believe him:yes:. So if others tried to take pics of their work, and tried to post them. They might 2nd guess their work when photographed, and say, WTF ,is that my work !!!,and they may not post it.

Good job Smis, show the newbies how machine work should be done


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

I post pic because i like to show my work...and get everyones feedback..be it good or bad...lets see some more pic :thumbup:


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## 800PoundGuerrilla (Nov 24, 2013)

Tracing on the block coat will eliminate the need to trace or knife the finish coat. Much depends on conditions and the mud being used.


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

You shouldn't have to trace behind any coat if your box is working properly do you guys sand after you tape too! :blink:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

sdrdrywall said:


> You shouldn't have to trace behind any coat if your box is working properly do you guys sand after you tape too! :blink:


Aren't you supposed to sand the tape to fuzz it a little so the mud will stick to it when you box with the seven?


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Tim0282 said:


> Aren't you supposed to sand the tape to fuzz it a little so the mud will stick to it when you box with the seven?


You cant be serious:blink:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

chris said:


> You cant be serious:blink:


Naw, just trying to get a rise of some...


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

sdrdrywall said:


> You shouldn't have to trace behind any coat if your box is working properly do you guys sand after you tape too! :blink:


Actually, 2bjr and I were laughing about this other week. I said I would never admit to this on DWT. But I will walk around with the pole sander looking for blobs eTC on the walls, not the ceilings. I'm not one of those that carries a knife in his back pocket so..... when boxing, I like to just keep going with nothing stopping me, we don't get too many lines in our work. But I have got to the point where I just walk the sander down the joints, looking for blobs etc as I go.

Even with the bead we have got this way, It's quicker to buzz the bead for 3 seconds with a sander, rather than getting all fussy in the wipe down. If I did half to install bead for another taper. (which Ive done on large jobs) we would wipe them down with a sponge on a mop head. to shut them up


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Oh yeah serious as a heartattack and you always should put your mesh tape in sticky side out so the mud sticks.:jester:


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## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Actually, 2bjr and I were laughing about this other week. I said I would never admit to this on DWT. But I will walk around with the pole sander looking for blobs eTC on the walls, not the ceilings. I'm not one of those that carries a knife in his back pocket so..... when boxing, I like to just keep going with nothing stopping me, we don't get too many lines in our work. But I have got to the point where I just walk the sander down the joints, looking for blobs etc as I go.
> 
> Even with the bead we have got this way, It's quicker to buzz the bead for 3 seconds with a sander, rather than getting all fussy in the wipe down. If I did half to install bead for another taper. (which Ive done on large jobs) we would wipe them down with a sponge on a mop head. to shut them up


I always carry a 5 inch knife when boxing. But we always wipe our beads down with a sponge see great minds think alike


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Why are there negative comments about 12" boxes?

Sminser, you're complaining about ridges or something? Check that your blades are set higher than your shoes by about a thumbnail's thickness on both sides! Check them before every job you do. You don't want to be riding on your shoes. 

Your mud shouldn't be too thin for boxing a 12" coat. Don't use Northstar or tall design 12's. I hope this helps.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Bevelation said:


> Why are there negative comments about 12" boxes?
> 
> Sminser, you're complaining about ridges or something? Check that your blades are set higher than your shoes by about a thumbnail's thickness on both sides! Check them before every job you do. You don't want to be riding on your shoes.
> 
> Your mud shouldn't be too thin for boxing a 12" coat. Don't use Northstar or tall design 12's. I hope this helps.


You better go back and read a little bit deeper in the thread my friend..first I keep my tools tuned up...I know how to keep my mud mix..and I dont complaine .go read a bit deeper than adress a comment towards me


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

^I may not have chosen my words properly, and I may have assumed incorrectly, but you did say your 12" box was useless.

I didn't see much more that I can read into deeply in this thread, apart from your begging of chris to help you with your problems.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Bevelation said:


> ^I may not have chosen my words properly, and I may have assumed incorrectly, but you did say your 12" box was useless.
> 
> I didn't see much more that I can read into deeply in this thread, apart from your begging of chris to help you with your problems.


what..are you reading..no offence chis...but chris said 12 inch box was useless for him..I was being sarcastic in my post..so bev.there was no begging of help from chris from me..once again watch what you say.go read a little bit slower.....than talk to me once your facts are straight


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Sooooo.... we were talking about tracing with your boxes, regardless of size. I am interested in trying this. Sounds like a good idea!


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

^Lol


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Bevelation said:


> ^Lol


 So do you or do you not trace with your boxes? I have always followed with a knife.


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

smisner50s said:


> what..are you reading..no offence chis...but chris said 12 inch box was useless for him..I was being sarcastic in my post..so bev.there was no begging of help from chris from me..once again watch what you say.go read a little bit slower.....than talk to me once your facts are straight


 Now you're tellin' me!


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Bevelation said:


> Now you're tellin' me!


 lets not turn this into somthing its not you misinterpted my eariler post with chris...so here i do not think 12 boxes are useless...i use mine all the time...idid not need chrises help ...i was being sarcastic towards him...for fun....and i dont come here to get into a pissing match with someone who reads my post misinterpets them.tells me how it is and then when i try to clarify things takes takes it the wrong way and than has to replay in the biggest letters that they can use...so bev im not turring this thread into somthing its not .bev im cool with you ..you cool with me


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

^Of course, man. I didn't catch the sarcasm at first.

......but did you catch mine?


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## McDusty (Oct 12, 2009)

2 'tracing' threads going at once! interesting. anyway, it's a waste of time. if your boxes are set decently your mud is mixed right, just run each flat 2x. run one way, and back the other way. if your setup is right, it should dry to virtually flat. next coat is pretty much a skim. proper sanding makes for true flat.

cut & paste.


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## M T Buckets Painting (Nov 27, 2010)

McDusty said:


> 2 'tracing' threads going at once! interesting. anyway, it's a waste of time. if your boxes are set decently your mud is mixed right, just run each flat 2x. run one way, and back the other way. if your setup is right, it should dry to virtually flat. next coat is pretty much a skim. proper sanding makes for true flat.
> 
> cut & paste.


deja vu


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## E.K Taper (Jun 15, 2011)

I dont trace my boxes. Get it right 1st time, no need to trowel either. I do use a pole sander between coats, just to knock the snotters off:thumbsup:


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

E.K Taper said:


> I dont trace my boxes. Get it right 1st time, no need to trowel either. I do use a pole sander between coats, just to knock the snotters off:thumbsup:


we call them boogers


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

Peckers


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

goobers


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Dags (you know like the ones hanging off the back of a sheep) Woops did I say the sheep word, 2Buck will snif this out and be all over it.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

gazman said:


> Dags (you know like the ones hanging off the back of a sheep) Woops did I say the sheep word, 2Buck will snif this out and be all over it.


So in the movie "snatch", is Brad Pitt making a joke about balls when he says "so, ya like dags?" He's talking about the dog of course, but I had no idea people in countries far far away called the swinging sack 'dags'.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

SlimPickins said:


> So in the movie "snatch", is Brad Pitt making a joke about balls when he says "so, ya like dags?" He's talking about the dog of course, but I had no idea people in countries far far away called the swinging sack 'dags'.


No sorry I didnt explain I just assumed it was a international term.
Dags refer to the lumps of crap that sticks to the rear end of a sheep. (st1t around there ar$e)


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> No sorry I didnt explain I just assumed it was a international term.
> Dags refer to the lumps of crap that sticks to the rear end of a sheep. (st1t around there ar$e)


Otherwise known as dangleberrys.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

gazman said:


> No sorry I didnt explain I just assumed it was a international term.
> Dags refer to the lumps of crap that sticks to the rear end of a sheep. (st1t around there ar$e)


Yep, they are dry hard lumps of crap that stick to the wool, and when the sheep run it sounds like a bag full of stones being shaken, when I was a young fella back on the farm my father would always say when he wanted me to hurry up "C'mon boy, rattle ya dags".


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I trace behind the 7" and the 10" boxing, and not behind the 12", works for me fine, double boxing instead of tracing works as well, it's just whichever way you prefer.


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

Hitch hikers...


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## E.K Taper (Jun 15, 2011)

cazna said:


> Otherwise known as dangleberrys.


 We call them dangleberries too. Now THATS an international term:thumbsup:


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## Tim0282 (Jan 8, 2008)

E.K Taper said:


> We call them dangleberries too. Now THATS an international term:thumbsup:


Now I like dangleberries! :thumbup: (even though my spell checker says it is not a word)


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

Tim0282 said:


> Now I like dangleberries! :thumbup: (even though my spell checker says it is not a word)


 In the south (not being able to speel) we call em dingleberries,,,,,,, but a berry by any other name,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> Yep, they are dry hard lumps of crap that stick to the wool, and when the sheep run it sounds like a bag full of stones being shaken, when I was a young fella back on the farm my father would always say when he wanted me to hurry up "C'mon boy, rattle ya dags".


So does a rattle sound get you all horny then:whistling2:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

where do you find all this stuff?


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> where do you find all this stuff?


The Internet :whistling2:

Just type anything with sheep in a sentence, things like, kiwi's f'ing sheep, kiwi's kissing sheep,sheep jokes,sheep dags etc........ except hit the Image icon instead of the search button. brings up only pictures in your search.

Your the young buck, your suppose to be teaching the old buck how to use a computer :whistling2:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

LOL, I KNOW how to use the internet, are you sure you do? One of these days you are gonna find something that you REALLY don't want to see! :whistling2:


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> So does a rattle sound get you all horny then:whistling2:


So when you first found the internet, did you ever imagine you would be searching for sheep dags and not p0rn?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

fr8train said:


> LOL, I KNOW how to use the internet, are you sure you do? One of these days you are gonna find something that you REALLY don't want to see! :whistling2:


I would imagine hes already done that many times :yes: I know i have :blink:


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

One of those "Ah, this link looks promising, I'll just click on it....ARGHHHHHHH OH MY GOD! WHY DID I CLICK THAT?...WHY IS THAT EVEN ON HERE!" kinda things.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> One of those "Ah, this link looks promising, I'll just click on it....ARGHHHHHHH OH MY GOD! WHY DID I CLICK THAT?...WHY IS THAT EVEN ON HERE!" kinda things.


never google fat beavers, scarey stuff:blink:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> never google fat beavers, scarey stuff:blink:


Dam you, Im going to be forever tormented till i do now, Then when I do, I will be forever tormented couse i did


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i googled it. i was expecting a bunch of sweet cameltoes and stuff and all i saw was a bunch of fat little animals and some band named the fat beavers. very dissapointing.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i googled it. i was expecting a bunch of sweet cameltoes and stuff and all i saw was a bunch of fat little animals and some band named the fat beavers. very dissapointing.


Your a brave man, Braver than I, Or maybe i have an overactive imagination when it comes to the term fat beavers :blink:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

cazna said:


> Your a brave man, Braver than I, Or maybe i have an overactive imagination when it comes to the term fat beavers :blink:


 Caz, there ain't but two types,,,

thats the :
1)Big ole Phat ones
2)Fat ole bigguns


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Caz, there ain't but two types,,,
> 
> thats the :
> 1)Big ole Phat ones
> 2)Fat ole bigguns


..and the skinny ones that WILL get fat,,,just give it time...:lol::lol:


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## Capt-sheetrock (Dec 11, 2009)

moore said:


> ..and the skinny ones that WILL get fat,,,just give it time...:lol::lol:


 That reminds me of one of my favorite pick up lines,,,,

Hey baby, ya need a cowboy to work on your spread?????


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> i googled it. i was expecting a bunch of sweet cameltoes and stuff and all i saw was a bunch of fat little animals and some band named the fat beavers. very dissapointing.


Made you look :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::whistling2:


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