# retexturing drywall after removing wallpaper



## dmcbride

I am remodeling the master bath. It had wallpaper and we have taken it down. It came down surprisingly easy--just had to pull on the peeling edges and it all came down in entire sheets all the way from the floor to the ceilings. It appears that there is glue that has been left behind still on the drywall. I have tried taking a medium grit sanding screen over it , but it does nothing really. After attempting to sand, I went ahead and wiped the walls down with a damp rag and the wall became a bit tacky until dry, so this confirmed the glue being there. 

I want to spray orange peel texture on these walls. I would prefer NOT to have to spray the entire bathroom with water/adhesive remover and scrape the walls if I don't have to. I have been doing some reading and noticed that many people say to use Zinsser GUARDZ or BIN to prime/seal the drywall, followed by spraying the texture, then followed by primer and paint.

What should I do to deal with the glue residue on the wall. I DO NOT want the texture and/or the paint to fail.

-Dustin


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## Custom Drywall Svc.

This is simple, and has been discussed many times on here, specifically by me I believe, since my company runs into this all the time, even on a current job:

Don't waste your time with sanding....

You're going to do either one of two things -- or both:

1. Apply a test area with mud. Let it sit, and see how it reacts. If it starts to bubble, this simply means you need to apply a primer....and yes, Zinsser shellac, bins, whatever.....

After this is dry, touch-up bad / rough areas if you need to with mud and begin to texture.


2. If after you apply the test area with mud and it DOESN'T bubble -- then you are ready for a light skim coat, followed by texture, no primer needed.


That's it.

You really shouldn't have to do ANYTHING ELSE beyond these steps.

To summarize:

1. if the mud bubbles -- then primer -- then texture.

2. if the mud does NOT bubble -- then skim coat -- then texture.


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## dmcbride

*what primer do you suggest?*

Thanks for the advice! What primer do you suggest? BIN? GARDZ? or something else. I went to the hardware store to look and read the cans...I couldn't really tell the difference between 1-2-3, and BIN...they did not have GARDZ...but I am sure I can find it somewhere. What is the best one to use in my situation?


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## Custom Drywall Svc.

http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=10

This is what we always use.

Zinsser BIN Shellac Primer. We just usually get it at our Home Depot.


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## dmcbride

*Primer*

When applying the primer, should 1 coat be sufficient or do you usually apply multiple coats?

Also, I have read online that some of these types of primers/sealers dry quickly and very hard...on place stated that you should paint very soon after drying or else it will dry too hard and the paint wont stick very well. Any thoughts on this?

I intend to spray orange peel or knockdown texture over this wall. It would be easier for me to apply the primer a few days prior to getting to walls with the texture. Will this be a problem?

Thanks,

Dustin


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## Custom Drywall Svc.

One coat of this primer is all we usually use -- I do tell my guys to apply it on 'thick' though, if anything...especially in really bad areas.

As far as 'drying too hard,' I've never encountered this because in most cases, we're usually texturing within 48 hours -- So I suggest you do the same....however, 72 hours won't be the end of the world.

Just make sure you roll it on nice and even. And once this dries, go back and check all the walls to make sure there's not really any nasty, rough areas -- if so, a spot touch-up with mud will not hurt.

We find usually that not too much touch up is needed though with mud once this primer is applied -- it really does coverup and make a lot of bad areas workable and bondable for texture mud.

I'll be honest, this primer has done wonders for us. We used to apply a skim coat of mud before discovering this primer, just HOPING it wouldn't bubble up .......there's been times where we floated at least 4 coats of mud over wall papered walls, like a bunch of idiots.

So yea -- use this primer to your advantage! Hahha....get in and out, and be more profitable!


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## D's

I struggled for a while just skimming over and hoping for the best - quickly learned proper prep work and taking the extra precaution saves a lot of headaches and delays.

I've taken to carrying around a couple of spray cans of KILZ oil based primer for spot coating water stains and torn paper for reno work. Saves having to get the roller and paint cans out. I'll have to try BIN to see how they compare.

D'S


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## Custom Drywall Svc.

Good for you D -- we've obviously both learned the hard way.

Im sure Kilz works very similar to BIN. I would think most commercial primers should do the job.


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## [email protected]

If it's a small area that is bubbling up, we skip the primer and use spray contact cement. It seals the brown fuzz and can be worked almost immediately. Not the cure for entire walls/rooms, but on bath remodels , etc. beats getting out a roller.


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## igorson

I would suggest to_ prime_ first and then _skim_ or whatever. It easier than get old stuff coming up after all the work is done.
http://1drywall.com/textures.html


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