# Help please / taping sequence/overlap..



## aaronm23lanza (12 mo ago)

So I'm self taught .
This question, I never really learned the "correct" way to do this.
Paper tape - let's say I have embedded tape on everything, not first coated.
Where the recessed joint intersects with inside corner , do the coats of mud overlap (where the receas joint runs into the inside corner )
Mud from the corner running vertical /recess joint horizontal.
*Does it over lap for each coat?

Can I overlap embedded tape (if I'm embedding a recessed joint with an inside corner on the end of the wall- do I run take end to end and run inside corner tape right over it ?
3 way inside corners?


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## Mjaw (Nov 24, 2020)

aaronm23lanza said:


> So I'm self taught .
> This question, I never really learned the "correct" way to do this.
> Paper tape - let's say I have embedded tape on everything, not first coated.
> Where the recessed joint intersects with inside corner , do the coats of mud overlap (where the receas joint runs into the inside corner )
> ...


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## picks drywall (Apr 13, 2021)

id guess "self taught" means knives only?

yes you run over them just dont build up a hump. the coat is thinner in the area where a "seam" meets an "angle". 

be dang sure you dont put much mud over a bad humped up "butt joint" either. thats a common mistake with newbies. "seems"(the long side of board with the "tape bevel") are another thing newbs do wrong. a perfect first coat will allow you to barley see the "tape bevel" through the mud(done with a 10 or 12" knife. second coat is then just a skimming of mud over that with a 12" knife. beginners tend to hump them up. wipe screws tight or youll hump them up too. getting good just takes a lot of doing it. lol


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## aaronm23lanza (12 mo ago)

picks drywall said:


> id guess "self taught" means knives only?
> 
> yes you run over them just dont build up a hump. the coat is thinner in the area where a "seam" meets an "angle".
> 
> be dang sure you dont put much mud over a bad humped up "butt joint" either. thats a common mistake with newbies. "seems"(the long side of board with the "tape bevel") are another thing newbs do wrong. a perfect first coat will allow you to barley see the "tape bevel" through the mud(done with a 10 or 12" knife. second coat is then just a skimming of mud over that with a 12" knife. beginners tend to hump them up. wipe screws tight or youll hump them up too. getting good just takes a lot of doing it. lol


I have 10" and 12" boxes. I do corners by hand. I'm actually about 3 years into it. I get good flat results, but a lot of ducking around, I'm thinking this could all be done faster but I never learned the "correct /official way to do it. I guess I never have consistent drywall hung correctly so I'm always having to change things up a bit.
* speaking of boxes, my 10" isn't crowinging correctly, its leaving a rough edge. I've seen on turning them up/adjusting them. But they're just not much help. I don't want to attempt and make it worse, any specific resources you know of that might help?


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## Mjaw (Nov 24, 2020)

aaronm23lanza said:


> I have 10" and 12" boxes. I do corners by hand. I'm actually about 3 years into it. I get good flat results, but a lot of ducking around, I'm thinking this could all be done faster but I never learned the "correct /official way to do it. I guess I never have consistent drywall hung correctly so I'm always having to change things up a bit.
> * speaking of boxes, my 10" isn't crowinging correctly, its leaving a rough edge. I've seen on turning them up/adjusting them. But they're just not much help. I don't want to attempt and make it worse, any specific resources you know of that might help?


New blade,new brass bar needed maybe


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## Shelwyn (Apr 10, 2015)

The blade might have slipped out of place too, it's a replaceable part your local drywall tool store might have them in stock just ask for x brand 10 inch box blade or repair kit or whatever. 

Tap on the blade if it's sticking out a lot compared to the other side to gently knock it back into place.


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## We dont use hawks here (12 mo ago)

Tbh there is no wrong way .overlap tape as long as you apply enough compound to a blemish free finish the way I do things is butts flats then angles but sometimes you'll have a butt joint overlapping it's no big deal


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## Tonydif (May 8, 2021)

Mjaw said:


> New blade,new brass bar needed maybe


If you push on blade assembly, and it moves, then you need new shoes (come in a blade kit,easy fix). That movement in blade assembly causes mud to leak 

Sequence = butts/joints, bead, angles, screws. Overlap and "tie - in" each connection .


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## picks drywall (Apr 13, 2021)

like said most likely just a new blade needed for edge problem. be sure to clean out the groove completely. 

having good hangers is a must. lol dont know how many times ive heard "cant you just mud it up?" i seen a basement hung from dumpster scraps one time. homeowner spent 2 years dumpster diving for pieces big enough to hang. i had to literally set on the steps and laugh. told him to cover it with paneling or something. i said the only finishers that are going to do this job are crackheads(that was before meth craze). lol


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