# Taping corners



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

What mud do you use to tape corners? I used hot mud for years with no real problems. But last year I changed to all purpose so I could use auto tools. Now I seem to be getting a few call backs with tape letting go. I have never used taping mud as it is not commonly available here. I even but some glue in the A/P on one job but some tapes have still started to lift.
Your thoughts.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

You must have some junk AP muds gaz, I remember you mentioning that before, Ive never had tape lift from either hotmud, taping mud, or all purpose, Oops i tell a lie, I had a small strip from lightweight all purpose once.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Spoke to a guy from AWCI (Association for walls and ceiling industry) and he said that if you use A/P you need 1mm of mud behind the tape and I was like WT. You are right it must be crap. I think it will be back to the devil I know, hot mud.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I have used sheetrock midweight for quite a while now and never had any problems (that I know of), maybe it's because you are using the A/P a lot thinner than when you used hotmud, and then rolling too hard? ...just a thought, really tho if there's mud under the tape then it shouldn't let go unless there's something wrong with the mud. Unless you are getting dry spots under the tape and you don't realize it at the time?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> Spoke to a guy from AWCI (Association for walls and ceiling industry) and he said that if you use A/P you need 1mm of mud behind the tape and I was like WT. You are right it must be crap. I think it will be back to the devil I know, hot mud.


 
Thats just plain weird?? If its AP mud and the bucket says for all three coats, Taping, Second coat, And finishing then it should be able to hold a peice of paper down, Unless it was topping mud, For finish coat only over hotmud, We have both, AP for all three coats, And topping for second and third coats. The topping or finishing mud isnt supposed to be used as a taping as far as i know.


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## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

All of our jobs/houses get Ruco Middle Weight for taping, bedding, and skimming, no issues at all.


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

I mentioned this before, but awhile ago we started using ProRoc mud some, including their taping mud. On a couple fairly recent jobs, the edges of the (paper) tapes in the flats weren't holding in places. Yet I read somewhere it's supposed to have more glues in it than our usual taping mud - Synko. Never had that problem with Synko.

I might have thought it was applicator error, but our best taper did the taping on one of the jobs, and he doesn't make mistakes like that. So, maybe a bad batch, for us and maybe for you, gaz?

Maybe you could ask around as to what taping mud has been working well, and stock up some?


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## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

We use Sheetrock/USG/Greenlid (whatever it's called in various area's) for all our taping and texturing. +3 for coating. You can tell on a reno job if the previous builder used a lightweight, demo'd wall intersections tape peels off easily. 

When I started , the head guy liked to use +3 for everything... have reno'd soem of those jobs and see the same. Must be your mud as everyone else is saying... our Greenlid AP weighs double the +3 because the density and glue in it


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Philma Crevices said:


> We use Sheetrock/USG/Greenlid (whatever it's called in various area's) for all our taping and texturing. +3 for coating. You can tell on a reno job if the previous builder used a lightweight, demo'd wall intersections tape peels off easily.
> 
> When I started , the head guy liked to use +3 for everything... have reno'd soem of those jobs and see the same. Must be your mud as everyone else is saying... our Greenlid AP weighs double the +3 because the density and glue in it


 MEAN GREEN:yes:IMO is the stickiest,heaviest,meanest sht out there. Not user friendly tho


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## Mudshark (Feb 8, 2009)

*The Name says it all*

Hard to believe I am in a minority in voting for taping mud. 

The name says it all - You need glue to hold the tape down. :yes:Try mixing the taping mud with topping mud and what do you get? All purpose mud, ie half assed taping mud. Shame some of your supply stores dont supply you with the proper material for the job.


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

gazman said:


> What mud do you use to tape corners? I used hot mud for years with no real problems. But last year I changed to all purpose so I could use auto tools. Now I seem to be getting a few call backs with tape letting go. I have never used taping mud as it is not commonly available here. I even but some glue in the A/P on one job but some tapes have still started to lift.
> Your thoughts.


What is your system when running your tapes in . Do you use the homax for this ??


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## E.K Taper (Jun 15, 2011)

Normal taping mud for me. British Gypsum Joint cement is what we use for boxing and angle tapes(internals)


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

suncoast drywaller said:


> What is your system when running your tapes in . Do you use the homax for this ??


I load the corner using an advance plastic aplicator head and mud runner, plenty of mud. Then put in the tape and roll with a columbia roller. Then glaze with a angle head.


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## justadrywallguy (Sep 10, 2010)

gazman said:


> What mud do you use to tape corners? I used hot mud for years with no real problems. But last year I changed to all purpose so I could use auto tools. Now I seem to be getting a few call backs with tape letting go. I have never used taping mud as it is not commonly available here. I even but some glue in the A/P on one job but some tapes have still started to lift.
> Your thoughts.


Do you use a corner roller, or just use the corner plow? I used to just use the plow and the tape seemed to float. now that I take the time to use the roller, it seats really nice.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

gazman said:


> I load the corner using an advance plastic aplicator head and mud runner, plenty of mud. Then put in the tape and roll with a columbia roller. Then glaze with a angle head.


Maybe its getting overloaded??


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## Lloydnz (Oct 21, 2010)

hi gazman i use usg taping compound to tape flats and corners.Have used it for years now with no problems at all. if you drop some on the concrete floor and scrap it off after a few days it takes the surface off the concrete that tells you how strong that compound is.I have a couple of tapping mates that use a/p and have had similar problems that you have had . cheers Lloyd


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

gazman said:


> I load the corner using an advance plastic aplicator head and mud runner, plenty of mud. Then put in the tape and roll with a columbia roller. Then glaze with a angle head.


Your system should be ok . I have used lafage / knauf for a number of years now and before that csr easy flow and it has worked fine , only problem I have had was with homax banjo ,just a technique issue . I have recently done quite a few houses with square set ceilings . I run tape in with zooker then roll and glaze with two inch angle head , the results have been excellent


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## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

*stiil useing mud, what a wastes- no foam and its in front of ya.*

licking your girl thing instead of mobveing hard, aint it great


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## bevo (Dec 3, 2011)

Gaz,

I use a similar system to you for internals but use Lafarge ( now Knauf) longset setting compound. It gives 80-90 minutes to get them all done then sets strong as. Never had a problem.

Would be easier with a drying compound but Im nervous of dramas later on.


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## bevo (Dec 3, 2011)

suncoast drywaller said:


> Your system should be ok . I have used lafage / knauf for a number of years now and before that csr easy flow and it has worked fine , only problem I have had was with homax banjo ,just a technique issue . I have recently done quite a few houses with square set ceilings . I run tape in with zooker then roll and glaze with two inch angle head , the results have been excellent


 
Suncoast, which Lafarge compound do you use?


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## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

*fast dry*

fast dry- it make me cry. put a hand out and cut a throught, lord where is the premium. deaD, GONE, DEAD,GONE.


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## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

bevo said:


> Suncoast, which Lafarge compound do you use?


I use allpurpose for running angles and I also use it as my topcoat . Its a good product .:thumbsup:


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The A/P that I have been using is CSR Easyflow. I had to remove a tape the other day on that house that I did a video tour of, the builder stuffed up the size of a wall. I peeled the whole tape out without breaking the tape. There was mud on the board and the tape but the bond was lousy.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

gazman said:


> The A/P that I have been using is CSR Easyflow. I had to remove a tape the other day on that house that I did a video tour of, the builder stuffed up the size of a wall. I peeled the whole tape out without breaking the tape. There was mud on the board and the tape but the bond was lousy.


Gotta be the mud then.Before using the TAPING flavor of mud we used mean green for tapes. Have taped with lite ap on rare occasions (when its all we have at the moment) at its no good. It will look OK but like you said, you can peel off too easy. If mean green is available to you try that Im sure it works:thumbsup:


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## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

gazman said:


> I peeled the whole tape out without breaking the tape. There was mud on the board and the tape but the bond was lousy.


Any warranty possible from the mud mfr. - beyond 'here's another box of what's not working'?


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

gazman said:


> The A/P that I have been using is CSR Easyflow. I had to remove a tape the other day on that house that I did a video tour of, the builder stuffed up the size of a wall. I peeled the whole tape out without breaking the tape. There was mud on the board and the tape but the bond was lousy.


Sheetrock total lite did the same thing, I could pull the tapes out.


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## Forced (Mar 19, 2012)

Im kinda shocked this was even a question.. Im even more shocked that taping mud is'nt the standard. Why would'nt you use taping mud when applying all tapes?


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

hot mud- seams @ butts...pro-form blacktop a/p- for taping angles. JUST ME... ! BUT...Any !! A/p mud gray in color has very little glue ..The more white in color.. the more glue The mud has in it... I'm speaking of a/p...This is the case in MY area...as I see it.


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## mudslingr (Jul 18, 2010)

Used AP for years until taping mud arrived on the scene without any problems. But I do feel a little better knowing there is more glue in it. And the fact it shrinks more than AP is quite nice actually.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

JustMe said:


> Any warranty possible from the mud mfr. - beyond 'here's another box of what's not working'?


No problems there Just me. The manufacturer gives great back up. If it fails I get to fix it on their clock.


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Forced said:


> Im kinda shocked this was even a question.. Im even more shocked that taping mud is'nt the standard. Why would'nt you use taping mud when applying all tapes?


One answer I can give on that question is if you are going larger to smaller with your corner finisher you want the same product on both coats.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

Forced said:


> Im kinda shocked this was even a question.. Im even more shocked that taping mud is'nt the standard. Why would'nt you use taping mud when applying all tapes?


lots of places don't even have taping mud. if you ever try an american midwieght all purpose you will see that even our light taping muds can be wimpy compared to those. it's a regional difference thing.


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

I have used beadex a/p for years for taping and coat with beadex a/p lite never have any issues I have used the a/p lite for taping too not a good bond at all.


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

gazman said:


> What mud do you use to tape corners? I used hot mud for years with no real problems. But last year I changed to all purpose so I could use auto tools. Now I seem to be getting a few call backs with tape letting go. I have never used taping mud as it is not commonly available here. I even but some glue in the A/P on one job but some tapes have still started to lift.
> Your thoughts.


A/P is your problem you need taping mud and if your suppliers not supplying then you have to work out a deal with them to start stocking to secure your commitment to your purchasing. If you not supplying then you need to stop supporting call backs to your contractor or builder because the product supplied is sub-standard to whats required for the job. :thumbsup: 


I just realized how old this post is lmao............... must be the Christmas cheer I'm into


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## alaska123 (Mar 10, 2009)

There is different kinds of joint compound some have stronger bond then others beadex allpurpose is a strong bond lets just say there is no pulling off the tape when dry. Once in a while if I sneak alittle air into my bazooka of course i get similar problems but sounds like not enough mud behind the tape to me just a thought. A/p is made to tape as well so it shouldn't be a problem. I also never have used hot mud for taping I is not east to get here I could though What do you guys think about sheetrock brand hot mud? I have only used silver set (made be beadex) to prefill.:thumbup:


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Beadex and Sheetrock are both made by usg and are similar products made for different regions. I use usg all purpose to tape with and it works great with plenty of bond. We don't use hot mud to tape either, but the usg easy sand is good for prefill and patchwork or anything else you need in a hurry. And it has a good bond to drywall also


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i,ve used beadex all purpose. ridiculously sticky and hard mud. no comparison to a lite taping mud. the beadex all purpose is way stronger.


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## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

USG MEAN GREEN!
If u want ur tapes 2 stick it is the 1:thumbsup:
The tapes will split before it lets go!:thumbup:
But sand it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i'm pretty sure mean green and beadex all purpose are the exact same mud. both a heavy all purpose made by usg.


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## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

In case some of you didnt know, Beadex and Hamilton both make a taping mix that is the full 50 ( heavy like mean green). It is the best taping mud available on the planet IMO:yes:


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## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

i now use usg lightweight to tape, +3 for seconding, and now mix both for polish and it comes out great..the combo for running the 12 box is great all smooth and no fish eyes!!


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## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

spacklinfool said:


> i now use usg lightweight to tape, +3 for seconding, and now mix both for polish and it comes out great..the combo for running the 12 box is great all smooth and no fish eyes!!



ekkkk


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

spacklinfool said:


> i now use usg lightweight to tape, +3 for seconding, and now mix both for polish and it comes out great..the combo for running the 12 box is great all smooth and no fish eyes!!


 Yes !!!Very little pocking with the L/W muds...But a very poor bond when taping with them..Never tape with the marshmellow mud man!

plus 3 is a L/W MUD!!! RIGHT?? ..:blink:


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

Plus 3 is an all purpose and there are people here who use it for tape, coat, and hand texture. I personally don't think it gives a very good bond for taping though. I like it for coating and that's about it.


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## Mountain Man (Oct 28, 2012)

And yes plus 3 is light weight and very marshmello-ish.


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## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

*beadex*

when beadex was owed by beadex, yellow light weight was it, but like all things----------------usg getys there hands on went to the dunny for a while, till the GREAT north east demanded our beadex name back. it werent broke-------------why fix it? cause these freaks no nothing and want control. its really ugly, now they kept the name and changed the formulae. what do i know


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