# Boxing after taping with Fibafuse - Do you need to wait?



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

I think this may have been discussed, but I can't find it after searching for quite a while now.

The question is:

Can you run your flat boxes over fibafuse, the same day that you taped.

My plan is to use a taping mud in the bazooka with the ff and then a normal AP compound in my box.

Anyone with any experience here? Good or bad...


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Go for it, Fibafuse isn't affected by moisture so you don't get any delayed problems later on, you can even put 3 coats on in the same day if you wanted, just give it longer to dry before sanding.


----------



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> Go for it, Fibafuse isn't affected by moisture so you don't get any delayed problems later on, you can even put 3 coats on in the same day if you wanted, just give it longer to dry before sanding.


Do you use quickset or normal joint compound for 3 coats in a day?


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

KiwiInNorway said:


> Do you use quickset or normal joint compound for 3 coats in a day?


I do that on small repair jobs using 20 minute set, once it's fully dry there's no sunken tapes. With new homes I don't fill the recess when taping (using 90min set), quite often I'll 7" box A/p over it on the same day.


----------



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> I do that on small repair jobs using 20 minute set, once it's fully dry there's no sunken tapes. With new homes I don't fill the recess when taping (using 90min set), quite often I'll 7" box A/p over it on the same day.


Are you using quick set in a bazooka? Or are you using a banjo?


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

KiwiInNorway said:


> Are you using quick set in a bazooka? Or are you using a banjo?


90 min in a banjo, 20 min by hand.


----------



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

Kiwiman said:


> 90 min in a banjo, 20 min by hand.


If I were to use all purpose in the bazooka for taping, do you think that the ff would slip or move at all when boxing?

I would be leaving it to "set" for a few hours, but obviously it would not be hard like a quick set.


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

KiwiInNorway said:


> If I were to use all purpose in the bazooka for taping, do you think that the ff would slip or move at all when boxing?
> 
> I would be leaving it to "set" for a few hours, but obviously it would not be hard like a quick set.


you could cut the ff on the butts when boxing over the seams that about it...I like to mesh then ff the butts...never had one crack


----------



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

icerock drywall said:


> you could cut the ff on the butts when boxing over the seams that about it...I like to mesh then ff the butts...never had one crack


Thanks icerock. But what i was trying to say was. If i box after taping the same day with all purpose. Ie. The ap is still "wet" when i go to box. Will i get problems?

I can see how using quick set and ap in the same day works. But what about ap in the zook and boxes - same day?


----------



## Pytlik (Jan 14, 2013)

KiwiInNorway said:


> Thanks icerock. But what i was trying to say was. If i box after taping the same day with all purpose. Ie. The ap is still "wet" when i go to box. Will i get problems?
> 
> I can see how using quick set and ap in the same day works. But what about ap in the zook and boxes - same day?


I do it on small jobs, no problem, but start tapeing the butts, and then the "longs ones, cant remember the english name " so the "long one" will overlap the butt tape, then when you box it wont pull the tape


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

You'll be fine man!
FibaFuse kicks ass!
Never ever going back to paper!
I swear up and down by FibaFuse.
Go ahead and coat it the same day.


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> You'll be fine man!
> FibaFuse kicks ass!
> Never ever going back to paper!
> I swear up and down by FibaFuse.
> Go ahead and coat it the same day.


right to the point :drink: If there was a like button I would click on it!


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> I do that on small repair jobs using 20 minute set, once it's fully dry there's no sunken tapes. With new homes I don't fill the recess when taping (using 90min set), quite often I'll 7" box A/p over it on the same day.


Snap, Or in Nz we would say, same ear, It should be same here but the H is just so much more effort :whistling2:

Hey Kiwiinnorway, Did you go see Fram at all?? Thats the only thing on my bucket list, To see that ship, Castles etc a close second. Actually Auschwitz is up there too, Man that place would send chills up my spine.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

KiwiInNorway said:


> Thanks icerock. But what i was trying to say was. If i box after taping the same day with all purpose. Ie. The ap is still "wet" when i go to box. Will i get problems?
> 
> I can see how using quick set and ap in the same day works. But what about ap in the zook and boxes - same day?


Taping and coating out in the same day is what perked my interest in the fibs fuse.:yes:

Just stage out your work. if you are doing a small job, say like a 2,500 sq basement. Do you butts then flats, then do your angles/internals, set your bead on, then box/bed out you flats and beads. That should give them a bit of time to set up a bit using AP mud.

I don't do too many small jobs, but we did get to experiment in a garage once with FF. We pre-filled one half of the garage with some ninety, and the other half we did not. We found it made a huge difference where we pre-filled, the results looked more professional.

Plus you half to remember why you shouldn't tape and coat using AP mud with paper tape. One is the paper tends to swell with moisture, and the other is delayed shrinkage. because on the surface things appear dry, but down below (even into the drywall) it remains wet. So you can get the classic, looks good when you were finished, but one month down the road, (after you got your pay:whistling2, you will see all the tapes.

There should be less chance of that with the FF, especially if you pre-fill 1st:yes:


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> So you can get the classic, looks good when you were finished, but one month down the road, (after you got your pay:whistling2, you will see all the tapes.


That's why we don't coat with AP :yes:


----------



## KiwiInNorway (Oct 31, 2012)

fr8train said:


> That's why we don't coat with AP :yes:


So what do you coat with?

Do you mean boxing or taping?

Sorry. Everyone uses different terminology and i just want to be 100% correct.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

We tape with USG MAC green lid. MAC stands for Machine Application Consistency. 
We coat with LaFarge Rapid Coat


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

dbl post, although I don't know why


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

fr8train said:


> That's why we don't coat with AP :yes:


I an confused Fr8, it says on their web site that you can tape and coat with rapid coat. So does that not make it an A/P?


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

gazman said:


> I an confused Fr8, it says on their web site that you can tape and coat with rapid coat. So does that not make it an A/P?


Rapid coat and USG blue lid are the same thing ..I would never apply tape or bead with either one [little glue ..If ANY] JMO! I'm sure we all know the manufactures aren't always right with there claims.. We use it! They make it to sell!


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

fr8train said:


> That's why we don't coat with AP :yes:


That's why I don't tape My seams and butts with A/P!


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Best things about Rapid Coat, 
doesn't shrink much at all
sands easily
temps up fairly quickly, so you don't always shred the crap out of previously coated work when crossing over. The temp time varies with temp and humidity, and of course just how much mud you had to put on in the first place.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> We tape with USG MAC green lid. MAC stands for Machine Application Consistency.
> We coat with LaFarge Rapid Coat


So your USG MAC green lid mud is what us Canucks call machine mud, Moose boys favourite mud:yes:. Stuff has it's pro and cons, pro is you don't half to add too much water to it, and it leaves very little pocs marks. Con is it takes forever to dry, and it's a super soft mud, that tends to flake.

And it does look like your rapid coat stuff is AP mud:yes:


----------



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Rapid coat also makes a gold lid for taping comparable to usg green lid


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Moore, you tape with hot mud right? No thank you! We use hot mud for small jobs, patchwork, etc. But a whole house? I'll pass


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> So your USG MAC green lid mud is what us Canucks call machine mud, Moose boys favourite mud:yes:. Stuff has it's pro and cons, pro is you don't half to add too much water to it, and it leaves very little pocs marks. Con is it takes forever to dry, and it's a super soft mud, that tends to flake.
> 
> *And it does look like your rapid coat stuff is AP mud:yes:*



You can call it AP, they can call it AP. I won't tape a job with it, I've done little crap tapes here and there, that got missed on taping day. I.e. a router overcut on an outlet or something.

All I know is the stuff floats.:yes: The original light-weight mud.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

fr8train said:


> Moore, you tape with hot mud right? No thank you! We use hot mud for small jobs, patchwork, etc. But a whole house? I'll pass


Each to his own! I have my reasons...


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

sdrdrywall said:


> Rapid coat also makes a gold lid for taping comparable to usg green lid


What is readily available around here:
USG MAC green, reg green, blue, purple
Proform Black, Blue, and some "new" light weight formula (We think we tested this a while back, but weren't supposed to tell anyone)
LaFarge Rapid, heard they have a mid weight, haven't seen it
EasyFinish, seen at Lowe's, used it once.......not by choice. SUCKED TO SAND! But it's pretty much the cheapest mud I've seen around. Also, if memory serves, it's the Captains mud of choice, because it's cheap


----------



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Rapid coat does a a midweight purple lid the gold lid you have to add a ton of water to get it wet enough for the bazooka but dries real fast. Carrying the buckets will give you a hernia


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Easyfinish= A bucket of melted plastic= to RUCO. Cheap chit!


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

SDR, never seen anything but the LaFarge Rapid, green lid around here. I think PA said he used it once a few years ago.


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Easyfinish= A bucket of melted plastic= to RUCO. Cheap chit!


Have been stocking jobs equally with Ruco all-purpose and pro-form all purpose (black lid) and the jobs are coming out equally as nice. Both muds are very hard to sand and make for a good finish. From what I can tell, they aren't much different. The black lid stuff tends to be easier to work with right out of the bucket but once they are both mixed up there is hardly any difference at all. Personally I think the Ruco has more glue in it.


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> Each to his own! I have my reasons...


I'm guessing your just trying to avoid delayed shrinkage issues? Unless your adding glue to your mix, then there is always a chance for delamination compared to A/P. I know hot mud sucks at sticking to most things.


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

I use These Black lid for taping 

Blue Lid for my coating 

Green lid for texture


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

A smooth finish said:


> I use These Black lid for taping
> 
> Blue Lid for my coating
> 
> Green lid for texture


I'am going to go black:yes:


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

thefinisher said:


> I'm guessing your just trying to avoid delayed shrinkage issues? Unless your adding glue to your mix, then there is always a chance for delamination compared to A/P. I know hot mud sucks at sticking to most things.


It wont stick to metal for chit yes. But in the 15 years I've been taping the butts and seams with 90 Iv'e yet to have a seam crack or peak even under the worst conditions..It will hold up to moisture and freezing. A/P won't IMO....Except for walking trusses I've never had h/m tape come loose..Even garages..


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

moore said:


> It wont stick to metal for chit yes. But in the 15 years I've been taping the butts and seams with 90 Iv'e yet to have a seam crack or peak even under the worst conditions..It will hold up to moisture and freezing. A/P won't IMO....Except for walking trusses I've never had h/m tape come loose..Even garages..


I am going to try this on my butts on my next tape coathttp://www.getflexseal.com/


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

moore said:


> It wont stick to metal for chit yes. But in the 15 years I've been taping the butts and seams with 90 Iv'e yet to have a seam crack or peak even under the worst conditions..It will hold up to moisture and freezing. A/P won't IMO....Except for walking trusses I've never had h/m tape come loose..Even garages..


Do you use brown bag durabond or quickset? I know when I put quickset on a scrap piece of rock and let it dry it will just pop off where as the A/P muds will take the paper with it.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

moore said:


> It wont stick to metal for chit yes. But in the 15 years I've been taping the butts and seams with 90 Iv'e yet to have a seam crack or peak even under the worst conditions..It will hold up to moisture and freezing. A/P won't IMO....Except for walking trusses I've never had h/m tape come loose..Even garages..


Moore, I wish that I could send you a bag of our base coat(hot mud) you would fall in love all over agan. And it sticks to metal. I have spoken to a few blokes over here from the US and they all say that there is nothing like it state side.


----------



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

"EasyFinish, seen at Lowe's, used it once.......not by choice. SUCKED TO SAND! But it's pretty much the cheapest mud I've seen around. Also, if memory serves, it's the Captains mud of choice, because it's cheap"

Stuff is total crap!!! If the board is holding any warmth at all, this mud will coagulate and becomes a bitch to wipe down.


----------



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

"EasyFinish, seen at Lowe's, used it once.......not by choice. SUCKED TO SAND! But it's pretty much the cheapest mud I've seen around. Also, if memory serves, it's the Captains mud of choice, because it's cheap"

Stuff is total crap!!! If the board is holding any warmth at all, this mud will coagulate and becomes a bitch to wipe down:furious:


----------



## Square Foot (Jul 1, 2012)

A smooth finish said:


> I use These Black lid for taping
> 
> Blue Lid for my coating
> 
> Green lid for texture


Also use ProForm black for taping but red lid multi for coating.


----------

