# Angle Head and Flusher ?



## fr8train

A question for you auto-tools guys. 

We use the auto-tools, but I have never had the opportunity to use a corner Flusher or an angle head. I'm looking at trying some out. When using them, would it be best to use a flusher first, after the tape has been applied and rolled, and then use an angle head for the 2nd coat? I noticed that the flushers are cheaper, but I would rather use a more expensive tool if it produced superior results.

Thanks
Mike


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## Whitey97

you've got it right.


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## cazna

Hi, i found the angle head a pig of a tool, catches the tape scrapes the board paper, if i pushed to hard it ripped the tape, if i backed of the pressure it wouldnt clean off the edges, lumps or paper would stick in the blades and leave scratches in the mud  so i got some flushers and none of this happened, you can put good pressure on it and it dosnt catch tape and cant pick up rubbish, feathers off edges well. 
Im havent had a lot of experence yet and will try the angle heads again some day but at this stage i would say angle heads are over priced and awful to use and flushers are clean easy and work well as soon as you pick it up and well priced.
Im very interested to read what other have to say on this.
I have finishpro angle heads and cam am flushers.


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## pipercub17

the cam am flushers work great no reason to go any other way


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## Saul_Surfaces

I recently traded up from a set of can-am flushers to angle heads and wish I'd done it much sooner. I found the flushers slower than my angle heads (nearly 2.5 times as long to do a corner as with the angle heads), and they didn't give as crisp a corner. To my mind that makes the angle heads faster AND better, an appealing combination. I have a 3" tapetech with the rollers, and a 2.5" Drywall master. DM was really good to me for tech support on a DM tool I bought used, so they rate pretty high in my mind for service. The heads only run well if set up well though. the blades all have to be aligned carefully (when first bench setting the new tool, then its good for a long while) or mud leaks out around the blades and leaves a lousy result. Just takes a little thinking--a nice change of pace for a mudder.


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## rhardman

*Flusher life.*

How long do the flushers last?
I had someone recently tell me that they are good for around 90 days; basically a commodity product that needs semi frequent replacement. 

Thanks.


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## cazna

Hello
I havent had mine very long yet, i can see that the point would ware out and get rounded but for the cost of them and the work i can get done im not bothered if i get a few a year, mabye they can be filed to a point again? time will tell, tryed the angle head again today?? still catching tape and not feathering off the edges so went back to the flushers again and no problems at all, must be doing something wrong or its prob lack of practice, i always hand did one side and once dry then the other but im over that.


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## McDusty

pipercub17 said:


> the cam am flushers work great no reason to go any other way


i've been using Can-Am & Better-Than-Ever brand flushers for years and years. whomever said they need to be replaced every 90 days is full of crap, or they are using them on concrete walls or something.

You can typically expect between 7 - 14 months out of a flusher head. it really depends on how hard to are pushing on the wall, the thickness of your mud, not hitting any screw heads sticking out. 

I have also used Northstar angle heads. They worked well, i do not at all think that there was a 250$ difference in quality, no difference at all really, just a different feel. I would not waste my money on high priced gismo's & special effects if i were you.


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## DSJOHN

I use the BTE flusher ,don,t know where the wear outfactor comes from? Anglehead on my apla-tech some times 3" sometimes4" just the mood I,m in. If your running tools and not using an angle whats up? JOHN


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## rhardman

*Believe it or not...*



McDusty said:


> ...whomever said they need to be replaced every 90 days is full of crap.


It was one of the manufacturers. :blink:

There were several things they told me that later I learned were not so accurate...

Thank you.


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## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Hi, i found the angle head a pig of a tool, catches the tape scrapes the board paper, if i pushed to hard it ripped the tape, if i backed of the pressure it wouldnt clean off the edges, lumps or paper would stick in the blades and leave scratches in the mud  .


I'm a novice with the angle heads too, Check your corner roller is in top condition, make sure the tape is rolled in tight, try thinning your mud more, don't start the angle head too close to the start of the tape and try and keep your handle at 90 degrees to the wall at the end of the tape. I used can-am flushers and I would have a go with my Northstar angle head then swear at it...a few months later I would adjust the blades and try again then swear at it a little more...Then another few months down the road I would remember how much I paid for it, thats about when I made the sod work. What I like about the angle head is the speed when using it with the angle box. Flushers are still good but it depends on who you are, what you like, and what suits your style best...Get both and time will tell.


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## carpentaper

has anyone tried the direct flushers. i got a 3.5" one and just made a mess in a couple of closets where i was testing them out. i'm thinking of getting an inside corner applicator and then just using the flushers on the pole instead. i think the direct flusher was trying to do more than it could, or maybe it was just me. also i'm wondering if the 3.5 is too wide for a flusher. what sizes are you guys using and in what order? also what kind of rollers are you guys using to go with the flushers? as much as i would love to splurge on the angle heads its not going to happen. i've been getting really bored of finishing my angles by hand and after hearing all the positive reviews of the flushers i think i might be able to lay my skepticism aside and give them a try. not that i've seen any of your work or anything but i assume anyone who spends their time on a drywall forum learning about their trade takes pride in their work. oh i was also wondering if the direct flusher i bought can just be used as a regular flusher? i don't see why not.


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## cazna

Hi Carpentaper
I looked at the direct flushers too but thought using one on the tube would have been too much so im putting the mud in with the tube then flushing off after with a standard flusher, still working on the what sizes what coat thing.
We have tapered edges in corners to do battle with a lot so first and 2nd coat with the 3.5 seems to be working, last coat thinned so not to build up a ridge. Going to try 2.5 first coat 3.5 last coat when i get some non tapered corners soon.
I see angleheads use 3.5 then 2.5 but im not sure if a 2.5 flusher into a 3.5 corner will scrape it out? Or maybe a 3.5 flusher then a 2.5 angle head may be the go??
Your direct flusher may not flush off so well on its own as the mud entry peice could stop the mud from getting flushed off evenly? i dont know?
and im using a corner roller with 4 wheels first, goes great.


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## McDusty

use the 2.5" first, then the 3.5". get the tube & applicator.

direct flushers will work like a standard flusher if you want.


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## Saul_Surfaces

Do you guys not find your flushers leave the mud a little too heavy at the inside of the angle? I found my corners done with a flusher set (over paper tape) would have tiny drying cracks in the center of the angle on 30% of my corners. I was using a 3" BTE and a 2.5" Can-am. I've never had that issue since I switched to my Tapetech angle heads. In both cases I pre-fill any gaps over 1/8" with setting compound before taping.


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## carpentaper

Saul_Surfaces said:


> Do you guys not find your flushers leave the mud a little too heavy at the inside of the angle? I found my corners done with a flusher set (over paper tape) would have tiny drying cracks in the center of the angle on 30% of my corners. I was using a 3" BTE and a 2.5" Can-am. I've never had that issue since I switched to my Tapetech angle heads. In both cases I pre-fill any gaps over 1/8" with setting compound before taping.


 this is the only problem i'm worried about. i'm wondering if sanding the corner crisp with a sgaure sponge would help, but if it happens when drying it might be too late. i've considered bondoing the hole after taking of the applicator from the direct flusher. has anybody else experienced the hairline cracks from these tools? have you found a way around it?


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## Kiwiman

Before I used any flushers and angle heads I taped the corners with hot mud then topcoated with a corner trowel, the corner trowel left more mud on the inside of the angle than the flusher and would end up with hairline cracks more often than not, they sanded out easy enough with an angle sponge, then once I changed to sheetrock A/P for topping the hairline cracks stopped. The flushers are basically a corner trowel with skids to keep it at the right angle and tabs bent on the wing to feather the edge.


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## McDusty

the hairline crack from mud shrinking back and drying is totally normal to have on a the angles. it sands right out with a square sponge. it's not a crack in the tape or anything, it's simply from the mud shrinking back. a non issue.


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## Bevelation

Right now I'm frustrated with both methods. Flusher style sucks to me because either angles are filled too heavy or too thin from poor control of the applicator. Where they wear out so soon is on the angle part. It rounds itself off after about a year or so of use. I've seen houses where the tapes look like bullnose, and the top 5" is squared off from knifing the three ways.

Where it fills heavy sometimes the mud sags as it dries. Sanding, sanding, sanding. I can't mix the mud much thicker because I'm not a bodybuilder. Three ways are a pain because you can't wipe them/touch them up easily without making a mess after you run them. 

On the angle head end, I have yet to find a good setting for my Columbia 3.5" because I can't get it to coat thick enough. Often two swipes with the sponge burns the tape.


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## cazna

Sometimes if the job is big enough i have taped the corners then let it dry and do the ceiling tapes the next day, easier to manage the 3 ways. When i sand the corners im usually sanding and then running a nice clean square sharp 5inch knife down them to square them off, and when my board knifes get worn or get a nick in them i just carefully file them good again, i havent worn my flushers out enough yet to try it on them but i think that would put a edge back on them?? Havent had to much trouble with the thickness or thinness of the plaster, the flushers seem to sorting that out for me so far.


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## Saul_Surfaces

Bevelation said:


> Right now I'm frustrated with both methods. Flusher style sucks to me because either angles are filled too heavy or too thin from poor control of the applicator. Where they wear out so soon is on the angle part. It rounds itself off after about a year or so of use. I've seen houses where the tapes look like bullnose, and the top 5" is squared off from knifing the three ways.
> 
> Where it fills heavy sometimes the mud sags as it dries. Sanding, sanding, sanding. I can't mix the mud much thicker because I'm not a bodybuilder. Three ways are a pain because you can't wipe them/touch them up easily without making a mess after you run them.
> 
> On the angle head end, I have yet to find a good setting for my Columbia 3.5" because I can't get it to coat thick enough. Often two swipes with the sponge burns the tape.


I mix a little Proset 90 (about 2.5 cups per pail) into my mud to cut down on shrinkage, really helps when running mud as thin as needed for the corner box. Don't have any trouble keeping the tape covered with my 3" tapetech head. I've taken to running it twice, ran than following with my 2.5" drywall master head, which doesn't perform as well as my Tapetech, or a Columbia likely would.


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## D's

Bevelation said:


> Right now I'm frustrated with both methods. Flusher style sucks to me because either angles are filled too heavy or too thin from poor control of the applicator. Where they wear out so soon is on the angle part. It rounds itself off after about a year or so of use. I've seen houses where the tapes look like bullnose, and the top 5" is squared off from knifing the three ways.
> 
> Where it fills heavy sometimes the mud sags as it dries. Sanding, sanding, sanding. I can't mix the mud much thicker because I'm not a bodybuilder. Three ways are a pain because you can't wipe them/touch them up easily without making a mess after you run them.
> 
> On the angle head end, I have yet to find a good setting for my Columbia 3.5" because I can't get it to coat thick enough. Often two swipes with the sponge burns the tape.


Hey Bevelation,
A couple of tips...
Make sure you use a roller to set the tape or chances are it'll burn when you go to sand. Agree with you about the flushers, angle heads do a much cleaner job and are worth mastering in the end. Try using your applicator tube with the angle heads and some dish soap in your mud for an easier push. Try being aware of which corners have bevelled edges in them as they often need more mud.

Good luck,
D'S


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## McDusty

DO NOT USE DISH SOAP IN YOUR MUD! 

go to a painters forum and ask them why.


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## cazna

I was told by the makers of nz mud that a thimble full of dish wash liquid in a 15kg bucket helps to stop the little bubble holes that pop out when you use it over paint, but then again nz mud is not very good? well its ok if you want to shove it around by hand but try anything else with it and it could end in tears.


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## Tim0282

I want ALL of my competitors to use soap in their mud. Good for my business!
:blink:


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## D's

Okay so what's so bad about a teaspoon of dishsoap in a bucket of mud? Now I'm curious, enlighten me...

D'S


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## fr8train

Has anyone tried running an angle head or flusher over structural corner tape? Or, do you recommend using paper tape in the corner with these tools? We use no-coat brand zoomaflex for our inside 90's.


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## D's

Okay McDusty,
The painters said not to use soap because it reacts with all the lead smog that drifts into Rossland from Trail.


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## D's

Oh I almost forgot, they also mentioned that most snowboarders are allergic to soap.


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## McDusty

cazna said:


> I was told by the makers of nz mud that a thimble full of dish wash liquid in a 15kg bucket helps to stop the little bubble holes that pop out when you use it over paint, but then again nz mud is not very good? well its ok if you want to shove it around by hand but try anything else with it and it could end in tears.


your NZ manufacturer is right, it does stop the little bubbles when going over painted surfaces. BUT, painters will tell you that paint does not like sticking to soapy mud. the paint likes to slide over it rather than sticking nicely. PERHAPS a thimble full has no adverse effects. 

D's, thanks for letting me know that i have not changed my 'location' i no longer live in BC. 

back on track here.... the flushers will not work over 'No-Coat' or 'Straight Flex' or any other ridged inside corner material, it is just to thick.


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## kgphoto

Hey Dusty,

I use the flushers over the NO-Coat 325 and Leveline and the Strait-Flex Mid- Flex and have no problems at all. I do set them with a four wheel roller first.


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## PrairrieDogExpress

kgphoto said:


> Hey Dusty,
> 
> I use the flushers over the NO-Coat 325 and Leveline and the Strait-Flex Mid- Flex and have no problems at all. I do set them with a four wheel roller first.


that's interesting, are you using a 4" flusher? that sure would make for one strong corner.


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## kgphoto

Nope, a 3 inch and then a 2 inch


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## PrairrieDogExpress

Doesn't the 325 stand for 3.25" wide? if so, how exactly does a 3" flusher cover?


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## Mudstar

A flusher and no-coat, I don't get it.

:bangin:


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## cazna

I dont get that either??
At the start of this thread i stated that flushers were great and angle heads were a pig, well the last house i did i flushed the corners with a 3 flusher and 2nd coat i used a can am tube with a internal mudhead to apply the mud and glazed it off with a 3.5 angle head and it worked great, the angle head made a sharper corner with less effort to push than a flusher.
So now i think i will try the 3.5 anglehead first and a 2.5 angle head on the corner box to finish which if i can get to work will be faster, i tryed this the first time on the tools and just made an ass of it, So maybe flushers are good to start with then go to the angle heads?? 
When i first used the angle heads they just caught everything so i wet and dryed sandpapered the blades and they seem a lot better now. And i noticed you need to thin down the mud a lot for the angle box?? will this still produce a nice corner or shrink away to nothing??
Anybody got any thoughts on this??


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## Bevelation

I still don't get the logic behind using a smaller head to finish after using a bigger head to set the tapes.


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## cazna

I think its so you dont build up the corner to much, you only need to cover the tape 2nd time around, if you watch a dvd on someone doing corners this way its very fast, but i found if you have tapered edges then that system wont work, the taper and then the 3.5 head wont leave enough mud in the corner, maybe if i filled them first with hot mud??? then it would work??


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## Bevelation

D's said:


> Hey Bevelation,
> A couple of tips...
> Make sure you use a roller to set the tape or chances are...


*STOP*

I use a roller. I roll HARD.

Beveled edges shouldn't be a worry if angles are filled properly anyway.

I just have to keep ****ing around with the stuff I have.


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## Bevelation

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I mix a little Proset 90 (about 2.5 cups per pail) into my mud to cut down on shrinkage, really helps when running mud as thin as needed for the corner box. Don't have any trouble keeping the tape covered with my 3" tapetech head. I've taken to running it twice, ran than following with my 2.5" drywall master head, which doesn't perform as well as my Tapetech, or a Columbia likely would.


That's pretty stupid.


*There goes my blunt instrument. Sorry.* Honestly though, I don't understand the logic behind that at all. If I had to resort to doing that method, I don't see much speed advantage over hand coating the angles.


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## Bevelation

kgphoto said:


> Hey Dusty,
> 
> I use the flushers over the NO-Coat 325 and Leveline and the Strait-Flex Mid- Flex and have no problems at all. I do set them with a four wheel roller first.


Your humour isn't funny. Either that or you're slightly retarded.

Really....

Flush over your NO COAT.

If putting NO COAT over 90 deg inside angle isn't a waste of time, I wonder if we're really in the industry for the money after all.

Maybe charging $50 an hour for cherry picking isn't a bad idea after all.


*(I apologize for being rude and cocky. I had too much fun last night and I breached my inhibitions.)*

...then again the more I think of it, the less sense it makes. Hitting NO COAT with your flusher defeats the purpose of NO COAT entirely. You're supposed to fill CLOSE TO the center line, not over it. Otherwise you will NOT create a straight line.


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## Bevelation

cazna said:


> I think its so you dont build up the corner to much, you only need to cover the tape 2nd time around, if you watch a dvd on someone doing corners this way its very fast, but i found if you have tapered edges then that system wont work, the taper and then the 3.5 head wont leave enough mud in the corner, maybe if i filled them first with hot mud??? then it would work??


 So....maybe the idea is to find something that is a little more consistent than .....using a 2.5" EXCEPT for the slight 95% chance that you're going to run angles on a beveled edge.


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## cazna

Bevelation said:


> So....maybe the idea is to find something that is a little more consistent than .....using a 2.5" EXCEPT for the slight 95% chance that you're going to run angles on a beveled edge.


 
Well That 95% chance of having beveled edges in corners is greatly reduced if you talk to the hangers first, use horizontally fixed wallboard that is beveled edge one side for example, if you get them to cut off the beveled edge from the first ceiling sheet that one is gone to, even if the sheets are vertically fixed a lot of the time you can trim off the beveled edge in the corner as well, our wallboard has very deep beveled edges and a high shoulder which causes problems with the glazing/fushing tools, so if you can get rid of them it make things a lot nicer to run.
So the 95% chance you mention i just dropped to 5%.


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## Bevelation

cazna said:


> Well That 95% chance of having beveled edges in corners is greatly reduced if you talk to the hangers first, use horizontally fixed wallboard that is beveled edge one side for example, if you get them to cut off the beveled edge from the first ceiling sheet that one is gone to, even if the sheets are vertically fixed a lot of the time you can trim off the beveled edge in the corner as well, our wallboard has very deep beveled edges and a high shoulder which causes problems with the glazing/fushing tools, so if you can get rid of them it make things a lot nicer to run.
> So the 95% chance you mention i just dropped to 5%.


Tapers don't want to waste their time at their work. Why would the hangers waste time in doing all that?

Really, I don't see any deal with bevels if the tools are running right.


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## cazna

Bevelation said:


> Tapers don't want to waste their time at their work. Why would the hangers waste time in doing all that?
> 
> Really, I don't see any deal with bevels if the tools are running right.


 
Well i dont know who your hangers are or what town you live in but in my small part of the world most builders actually care about there finished product and its very little extra work to listen and learn, the houses im on at the moment are high end homes with critical lighting issues so it all helps, i guess im fortunate to have helpful builders who want to create the best. It not always like that.


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## Bevelation

cazna said:


> Well i dont know who your hangers are or what town you live in but in my small part of the world most builders actually care about there finished product and its very little extra work to listen and learn, the houses im on at the moment are high end homes with critical lighting issues so it all helps, i guess im fortunate to have helpful builders who want to create the best. It not always like that.


You haven't grasped my point.

I live in a small town, and quality is very important. However, while the point is made that care about quality is needed. It's another thing to try acheiving such quality by taking steps that really aren't necessary. In short; tapers need to make their wage. Double running everything is ridiculous. Properly set up tools make the world of difference. Light doesn't travel around corners.


So far, I haven't found a brand of board where the bevel won't be filled in with a 3" flusher. At times it overfills, and I end up with humped angles if I don't pay attention to it when I sand. All I need to do is set up my 3.5" Columbia so that it runs thick to bury the tapes, and I'll be flying. Better quality work, less effort, less sanding. I'm all for it.


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## kgphoto

Bevelation said:


> Your humour isn't funny. Either that or you're slightly retarded.
> 
> Really....
> 
> Flush over your NO COAT.
> 
> If putting NO COAT over 90 deg inside angle isn't a waste of time, I wonder if we're really in the industry for the money after all.
> 
> Maybe charging $50 an hour for cherry picking isn't a bad idea after all.
> 
> 
> *(I apologize for being rude and cocky. I had too much fun last night and I breached my inhibitions.)*
> 
> ...then again the more I think of it, the less sense it makes. Hitting NO COAT with your flusher defeats the purpose of NO COAT entirely. You're supposed to fill CLOSE TO the center line, not over it. Otherwise you will NOT create a straight line.


You can wipe No-Coat (Level-Line) with either a knife or a flusher. Neither one adds mud. You only need to fill the out side edges. Try it and it works.

There are some who say to never overcoat these types of tapes and others who say you have to. I use a high build primer so it doesn't matter which method I use, it is all covered by the paint with no flashing and a uniform appearance.

I do small jobs so my goal is to do all coats in one day. Hot mud and No-Coat type products help me to do that. Minimal sanding, clean mud application and high build primer also contribute to that time line.


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## budrow

cazna said:


> Hi, i found the angle head a pig of a tool, catches the tape scrapes the board paper, if i pushed to hard it ripped the tape, if i backed of the pressure it wouldnt clean off the edges, lumps or paper would stick in the blades and leave scratches in the mud  so i got some flushers and none of this happened, you can put good pressure on it and it dosnt catch tape and cant pick up rubbish, feathers off edges well.
> Im havent had a lot of experence yet and will try the angle heads again some day but at this stage i would say angle heads are over priced and awful to use and flushers are clean easy and work well as soon as you pick it up and well priced.
> Im very interested to read what other have to say on this.
> I have finishpro angle heads and cam am flushers.


 try dish liquid dawn works great just a bit thinner than box mud


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## Bill from Indy

I have never used the flushers so I can't consider a .vs b.....but I can say I will never give up my angle tools

there is a learning curve with them and some are worse than others...cough...ames...cough...I have my old concorde 2.5 still and use northstar 3.5(essentially the same)..I still use 8" angle box

as for recesses, I have no problems filling them..but with a 3/2 combo, I can see where this would be a problem...when I first started using ames tools...17+yrs ago, I glazed with a 2 and pumped with a 3...the ames tube didnt leave enough mud to glaze with the 3 first....I then tried a trick, then, to carry around a bucket with a couple inches of mud in it and a roller with the glazer...1 swipe up the corner after rolled and glazed with a 3...this method cured the recess issue because the 2 wouldn't fill in on tape coat

going to 2.5/3.5, I have no issues and retired the ole corner roller(for extra mud)...but still, tube won't leave enough mud to glaze with 3.5 first....but me being a 1 man crew, it could well be there is too much time between the roll and the glaze

as for soap, BS....if you use too much, it will affect the paint...but you will know when you use too much because the mud won't stay on the wall either

a trick some of you may not know that are having problems starring corners (3 way)

when you roll...clean your angles all same direction..say you pull ceiling right top..down right side wall and right to left wall side..when you pump, go opposite direction...ceiling right to left, wall side left down....wall side left to right...this will leave a nice crisp corner every time and have no grooves or gouges from pulling angles same way 2x...i finished all my angles by hand before buying angle tools and just followed the slick ceiling rule..when you run them by hand, you run opposite sides..do same for the tools


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## Capt-sheetrock

Bill from Indy said:


> I have never used the flushers so I can't consider a .vs b.....but I can say I will never give up my angle tools
> 
> there is a learning curve with them and some are worse than others...cough...ames...cough...I have my old concorde 2.5 still and use northstar 3.5(essentially the same)..I still use 8" angle box
> 
> as for recesses, I have no problems filling them..but with a 3/2 combo, I can see where this would be a problem...when I first started using ames tools...17+yrs ago, I glazed with a 2 and pumped with a 3...the ames tube didnt leave enough mud to glaze with the 3 first....I then tried a trick, then, to carry around a bucket with a couple inches of mud in it and a roller with the glazer...1 swipe up the corner after rolled and glazed with a 3...this method cured the recess issue because the 2 wouldn't fill in on tape coat
> 
> going to 2.5/3.5, I have no issues and retired the ole corner roller(for extra mud)...but still, tube won't leave enough mud to glaze with 3.5 first....but me being a 1 man crew, it could well be there is too much time between the roll and the glaze
> 
> as for soap, BS....if you use too much, it will affect the paint...but you will know when you use too much because the mud won't stay on the wall either
> 
> a trick some of you may not know that are having problems starring corners (3 way)
> 
> when you roll...clean your angles all same direction..say you pull ceiling right top..down right side wall and right to left wall side..when you pump, go opposite direction...ceiling right to left, wall side left down....wall side left to right...this will leave a nice crisp corner every time and have no grooves or gouges from pulling angles same way 2x...i finished all my angles by hand before buying angle tools and just followed the slick ceiling rule..when you run them by hand, you run opposite sides..do same for the tools


 Good post Bill


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## icerock drywall

better then ever tools are the best!!! used them for 5 years now and they rock


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## walltools

PrairrieDogExpress said:


> Doesn't the 325 stand for 3.25" wide? if so, how exactly does a 3" flusher cover?


No-Coat 325 is 3.25 inches wide (total width), whereas an angle head / corner finisher, and flusher are measured from center to edge (so, 3 inches from center.) Maybe they should call it a 6 inch?


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## walltools

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Good post Bill


I second that.


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## S&SDRYWALL

I like the 2" flusher, and the 3.5" angle head, kills your tape edge and leaves a clean angle, providing you are square and you know how to use tools


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## Capt-sheetrock

S&SDRYWALL said:


> I like the 2" flusher, and the 3.5" angle head, kills your tape edge and leaves a clean angle, providing you are square and you know how to use tools


 I have rep as being a jerk, I may earned that one !!!! 

Serious question tho,,, If your using a 31/2 angle head, why would you use a flusher????


----------



## McDusty

question. for those of you that run a 3 or 3.5" FIRST and then a smaller one for finish coat, does that mean you are leaving 1" of taping mud exposed and then sanding the 2 different kinds of mud together?

i'm guessing that there is a direct correlation between those of you who do it that way, and those of you using a power sander.


----------



## cazna

McDusty said:


> question. for those of you that run a 3 or 3.5" FIRST and then a smaller one for finish coat, does that mean you are leaving 1" of taping mud exposed and then sanding the 2 different kinds of mud together?
> 
> i'm guessing that there is a direct correlation between those of you who do it that way, and those of you using a power sander.


I have done it both ways and the taper then roller then 3.5 angle head on the mudrunner to wipe down leaves a full corner, then a quick 2.5 down the centre is so fast and easy its crazy, you can whip around it so fast and yes it makes a great corner and i use the same mud for both coats McDusty or i think it would be a balls up, I use a pc but not in the corners, that will ruin them, A quick light sand with the flex edge foam sander then check over it with a sponge and you got sharp even level corners and the highest standard you can achive, Not to say the 2.5 first then the 3.5 next wont do that as i have done that too but it just seem faster and easier using the 2.5 last.

I have tryed to do it this way without the mudrunner and couldnt seem to do it, I suck with the corner box, the runner makes such a full even corner its fantastic.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

McDusty said:


> question. for those of you that run a 3 or 3.5" FIRST and then a smaller one for finish coat, does that mean you are leaving 1" of taping mud exposed and then sanding the 2 different kinds of mud together?
> 
> i'm guessing that there is a direct correlation between those of you who do it that way, and those of you using a power sander.


 Dusty, at the chance of getting your dander up again,,,, you think that "we" who use a PC do so cause we suck. You got to get past that if your gonna take any of us seriously.

Personally, I use the 3 1/2 angle head first. Then followed by the 2 1/2. The "ridge" between the two is visable to the eye but not to the hand,,,, nothing I would need the PC to GRIND off.

BTW, as another poster said, I use the mudrunner, therefore I use the tools that are suited for the mudrunner. If you use a corner box, you have to use the tools that are suited for that tool.

Not meaning any disrespect here, just trying to say that "differant" systems,,, lead to "differant" techniques:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

cazna said:


> I have done it both ways and the taper then roller then 3.5 angle head on the mudrunner to wipe down leaves a full corner, then a quick 2.5 down the centre is so fast and easy its crazy, you can whip around it so fast and yes it makes a great corner and i use the same mud for both coats McDusty or i think it would be a balls up, I use a pc but not in the corners, that will ruin them, A quick light sand with the flex edge foam sander then check over it with a sponge and you got sharp even level corners and the highest standard you can achive, Not to say the 2.5 first then the 3.5 next wont do that as i have done that too but it just seem faster and easier using the 2.5 last.
> 
> I have tryed to do it this way without the mudrunner and couldnt seem to do it, I suck with the corner box, the runner makes such a full even corner its fantastic.


wow!!!!your starting to sound like a pro cazna:rockon:


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> wow!!!!your starting to sound like a pro cazna:rockon:


Cheers, thats one step on the untorn rice paper for me, look out though as the next 10 will be torn to hell :thumbup:


----------



## Kiwiman

What am I doing wrong then? I use a 2.5 head when I tape and roll in, let dry then 3.5 head on an anglebox, but a lot of them are never 100% so I give a final coat with a 2.5 head otherwise deep sunken screws still show and it's too easy to oversand into the tape (paper). Could it be blade adjustment? any tips on setting up blades?


----------



## cazna

Maybe do your corners like another guy we know, tape, 2.5 head, then 2.5 head again for a fill coat, then 3.5 to finish kiwiman, If the corners are gappy with a lot of tapered edges i might do it this way with the runner to build it up more.
Its only the mudrunner that allows me to do the 3.5 then the 2.5 when the corners are good, all the mud you want with a simple twist, not a push and a shove which just scrapes out the mud again with the angle box?? Well thats what kept happening to me anyway, Dam  finishpro crap anglebox, I nearly got hemorriods straining to get you to work, Ah the mudrunner, such a blessing :thumbsup:


----------



## Kiwiman

cazna said:


> Maybe do your corners like another guy we know, tape, 2.5 head, then 2.5 head again for a fill coat, then 3.5 to finish kiwiman.
> Its only the mudrunner that allows me to do the 3.5 then the 2.5, all the mud you want with a simple twist, not a push and a shove which just scrapes out the mud agian with the angle box?? Well thats what kept happening to me anyway, Dam  finishpro crap anglebox, I nearly got hemorriods straining to get you to work, Ah the mudrunner, such a blessing :thumbsup:


I might try that, 2.5 twice then the 3.5, How does the edge work out for you with the mudrunner, does it still leave a tight feathered edge?
I must find an excuse to get over your way some day, hopefully on a day when you're using the mudrunner.


----------



## cazna

Kiwiman said:


> I might try that, 2.5 twice then the 3.5, How does the edge work out for you with the mudrunner, does it still leave a tight feathered edge?
> I must find an excuse to get over your way some day, hopefully on a day when you're using the mudrunner.


Yes it does leave a nice edge when you get the hang of it but it is easy to overfill and loose that nice edge. I did that the first corner i did but then got the hang of it pretty quickly, before you know it your finished.
But i have to admit, my finishpro 3.5 which is actually closer to a 4 does a sweet corner on the runner, that little bit wider is nice sometimes, couldnt even begin to get the hang the dam thing on the cornerbox, Yeah mate, head over one day and we can go fishin.


----------



## taper71

Just a suggestion Kiwi , but maybe check your roller. It may be getting worn and leaving too much mud behind the tape. After you roll a corner , push on the tape and feel how squishy it is, the tape should be tight in the corner , not squishy at all. If that isnt it I would suggest you check your angle heads. Columbia has a good video out that shows how it's done http://www.facebook.com/ColumbiaTapingTools


----------



## Kiwiman

taper71 said:


> Just a suggestion Kiwi , but maybe check your roller. It may be getting worn and leaving too much mud behind the tape. After you roll a corner , push on the tape and feel how squishy it is, the tape should be tight in the corner , not squishy at all. If that isnt it I would suggest you check your angle heads. Columbia has a good video out that shows how it's done http://www.facebook.com/ColumbiaTapingTools


Its rolling fine, the problem more than likely is the idiot thats been playing with the adjustment (me), I've set them to where they seem to get the best results but even giving them an extra coat only takes 30min per house anyway, by the way thanks for the link, I'll check it out tonight.
Hey Caz, you know I was telling you about every house I've done thats been entered in the "house of the year" competition has won, well we just got a win in the nationals...best in New Zealand, they are gonna have to make the doorways bigger here so I can get my big fat swollen head thru them... Oh lord it's hard to be humble etc etc :whistling2:


----------



## icerock drywall

fr8train said:


> A question for you auto-tools guys.
> 
> We use the auto-tools, but I have never had the opportunity to use a corner Flusher or an angle head. I'm looking at trying some out. When using them, would it be best to use a flusher first, after the tape has been applied and rolled, and then use an angle head for the 2nd coat? I noticed that the flushers are cheaper, but I would rather use a more expensive tool if it produced superior results.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike


better then ever is better then the rest...I use it on my tape coat with mesh!!! blast durabond into the mesh with the mubtube and flush it out with the flusher...but you need to know what your doing with durabond to make this work!:thumbsup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

icerock drywall said:


> better then ever is better then the rest...I use it on my tape coat with mesh!!! blast durabond into the mesh with the mubtube and flush it out with the flusher...but you need to know what your doing with durabond to make this work!:thumbsup:


 ????? I have no idea what he just said !!!!!


----------



## cazna

Capt-sheetrock said:


> ????? I have no idea what he just said !!!!!


That makes too of us capt, I dont understand filthy words such as mesh and durabond :jester:


And rock on kiwiman, winning awards is what i like to hear, sounds like we on the same page.:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

sure you want to visit cazna,you might pick bad habits and never win another award:jester:
on the serious side,prefill your angles,I'm assuming the rockers are nailing your angles,not too much need to if their using screws though,If you think about it,three coats on screws,so in angles,tape coat,flush/glaze......that's 2 coats.
the angle box is fast but it is more meant to run a smaller head on them,which allows for more speed and less pushing and heaving.But not every taper loves them.So I would go visit cazna to check out the mud runner,or check out the compound tubes with applicator head.you said you didn't mind if you ran a system that took a bit longer, (and I'm not starting a which is faster debate either )
And if you do go fishing with cazna,push him in the water for me:yes:


----------



## cazna

2buckcanuck said:


> sure you want to visit cazna,you might pick bad habits and never win another award:jester:
> on the serious side,prefill your angles,I'm assuming the rockers are nailing your angles,not too much need to if their using screws though,If you think about it,three coats on screws,so in angles,tape coat,flush/glaze......that's 2 coats.
> the angle box is fast but it is more meant to run a smaller head on them,which allows for more speed and less pushing and heaving.But not every taper loves them.So I would go visit cazna to check out the mud runner,or check out the compound tubes with applicator head.you said you didn't mind if you ran a system that took a bit longer, (and I'm not starting a which is faster debate either )
> And if you do go fishing with cazna,push him in the water for me:yes:


 
No Nails here 2buck its all screws, I have been known to prefill the tapered edges the builders leave in the corners though to help me bury that high shoulder though, the compound tubes do work, I did that before the runner but they can be quite a strain and slow, I used a mud head on the tube to apply the mud then a flusher to finish, worked well but the Mudrunners the king, no pushing and great mud flow, the more you twist the more mud you get, just a small twist = small amount of mud.

At least our water here is not as freezing ass cold as canadas or i might come out looking like a canadian, About 2inchs long with no balls and a squeaky voice :thumbup::jester:



Im really going to get it for that one arnt I :yes:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

well if you came out looking like a Canadian,you would become one of GODS most perfect creations:yes: ,I'm sure all the other stuff you talk of would be a improvement for you too:whistling2::jester:


----------



## cazna

:jester: Its alright 2buck, you can have your revenge when canada beats NZ in the rugby world cup, Huh, Pigs might fly? Nope not gonna happen, Our boys just hammered the UK, we on fire :thumbsup:
Just a shame we cant win when it matters though? But we still f in good.


----------



## icerock drywall

cazna said:


> Maybe do your corners like another guy we know, tape, 2.5 head, then 2.5 head again for a fill coat, then 3.5 to finish kiwiman, If the corners are gappy with a lot of tapered edges i might do it this way with the runner to build it up more.
> Its only the mudrunner that allows me to do the 3.5 then the 2.5 when the corners are good, all the mud you want with a simple twist, not a push and a shove which just scrapes out the mud again with the angle box?? Well thats what kept happening to me anyway, Dam  finishpro crap anglebox, I nearly got hemorriods straining to get you to work, Ah the mudrunner, such a blessing :thumbsup:


 Maybe use durabond on your first coat ...it dont shrink


----------



## icerock drywall

Capt-sheetrock said:


> ????? I have no idea what he just said !!!!!


 thats too bad :thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Capt-sheetrock*  
_????? I have no idea what he just said !!!!!_

thats too bad :thumbsup:


:whistling2atiently waiting for the captain to come on line so the fun can begin!!!


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by *Capt-sheetrock*
> _????? I have no idea what he just said !!!!!_
> 
> thats too bad :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> :whistling2atiently waiting for the captain to come on line so the fun can begin!!!


Naw, I'll let this one pass, anyone that uses mesh tape and dura-bond in corners wouldn't understand .


----------



## Bill from Indy

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Naw, I'll let this one pass, anyone that uses mesh tape and dura-bond in corners wouldn't understand .


maybe he has a big bucket that says apla tech on the side of it:jester:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

Bill from Indy said:


> maybe he has a big bucket that says apla tech on the side of it:jester:


 I have Alpha-techs,,,, but I don't use durabond or mesh in the corners.

Kinda lost me there,,, you "poking" me or him???


----------



## Bill from Indy

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I have Alpha-techs,,,, but I don't use durabond or mesh in the corners.
> 
> Kinda lost me there,,, you "poking" me or him???


him and the apla tech's..but after looking at there site...i guess i stand corrected..

about eh..7 or so years ago, a company here bought a apla tech system...ran on a pump fed by a compressor...gun was a mesh taper......and you bed everything with these goofy looking heads they called "boxes" then skimmed regular..was the worst setup I have ever used

I see now there gun runs like a regular bazooka and there boxes now are more like regular ones..cfs or something like that..

so...public apology i guess...apla tech has changes since i knew..if i would have known that...i wouldnt have wasted the comment above..it was a joke though...yes


----------



## Kiwiman

http://www.facebook.com/ColumbiaTapingTools
Thats an excellent set of video's that :thumbsup: I wish I had seen them sooner.


----------



## icerock drywall

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Naw, I'll let this one pass, anyone that uses mesh tape and dura-bond in corners wouldn't understand .


there is nothing stronger then durabond ...I tape coat a house in one day with durabond and 2nd coat the butts.I could go to a house that you tape out with paper and pull it ALL of the sheetrock like it was never there!!! you cant pull my tape off ...and mesh in the corners ...too easy for me.:thumbsup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

icerock drywall said:


> there is nothing stronger then durabond ...I tape coat a house in one day with durabond and 2nd coat the butts.I could go to a house that you tape out with paper and pull it ALL of the sheetrock like it was never there!!! you cant pull my tape off ...and mesh in the corners ...too easy for me.:thumbsup:


dare you to put a one year warranty on your work:yes:
then in one year you will spend more time fixing your old work,rather than starting any new work:thumbsup:


----------



## Bill from Indy

icerock drywall said:


> there is nothing stronger then durabond ...I tape coat a house in one day with durabond and 2nd coat the butts.I could go to a house that you tape out with paper and pull it ALL of the sheetrock like it was never there!!! you cant pull my tape off ...and mesh in the corners ...too easy for me.:thumbsup:


never there?
your not too far from me....come and try...if you can, i'll pay your trip both ways


----------



## icerock drywall

Bill from Indy said:


> never there?
> your not too far from me....come and try...if you can, i'll pay your trip both ways


 lol ...if you use light mud on your first coat or use reg mud and add water too it so it can use an auto taper with paper tape it will come off easy ...it dont stick to the sheetrock paper.
try a test strip somtime


----------



## PrairrieDogExpress

icerock drywall said:


> lol ...if you use light mud on your first coat or use reg mud and add water too it so it can use an auto taper with paper tape it will come off easy ...it dont stick to the sheetrock paper.
> try a test strip somtime


wow:whistling2:


----------



## 2buckcanuck

icerock drywall said:


> lol ...if you use light mud on your first coat or use reg mud and add water too it so it can use an auto taper with paper tape it will come off easy ...it dont stick to the sheetrock paper.
> try a test strip somtime


are you a troll or something,either put up or shut up,take up bill from Indy on his bet.
my moneys on bill,$1,000,easy money:yes:


----------



## DSJOHN

I,m not getting in a pissing match with anybody but there is no way after taping with either all purpose or taping compound and paper tape that you going to pull it off the wall when dry---- from your comment--every house taped that way when painted the tape should just fall off-------get real dude---durabond has its place,I use it but it ,s not the miracle cure for drywall!!!!!


----------



## icerock drywall

DSJOHN said:


> I,m not getting in a pissing match with anybody but there is no way after taping with either all purpose or taping compound and paper tape that you going to pull it off the wall when dry---- from your comment--every house taped that way when painted the tape should just fall off-------get real dude---durabond has its place,I use it but it ,s not the miracle cure for drywall!!!!!


I am from N.H ... thats where I started john. It just dont make sense to me..I get calls for rework on bad butts... form jobs with auto tapers. I start cuting the tape off and if you dont make a cut on the seam or the corners the tape keeps coming off...in dont stop. I tap the nails and add some screews and clean it up then add mesh and durabond and its fixed ...so I change the way I tape. I know its hard to do corners with mesh but the flusher dose a great jod and the mud tube will push the durabond threw the mesh and then flush. it was a big change but works great .I would love to use all purpose but it cracks with mesh!! so durabond is the miracle cure for me. sorry if I made any one mad...would like to know if you put paper tape on one seam and durabond on the other wall why can you peel it off and the duabond side will rip the paper off the drywall ...it dont come off why use mud on a tape coat... I know the auto tapers use ALOT of water ...that cant be good.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

icerock drywall said:


> I am from N.H ... thats where I started john. It just dont make sense to me..I get calls for rework on bad butts... form jobs with auto tapers. I start cuting the tape off and if you dont make a cut on the seam or the corners the tape keeps coming off...in dont stop. I tap the nails and add some screews and clean it up then add mesh and durabond and its fixed ...so I change the way I tape. I know its hard to do corners with mesh but the flusher dose a great jod and the mud tube will push the durabond threw the mesh and then flush. it was a big change but works great .I would love to use all purpose but it cracks with mesh!! so durabond is the miracle cure for me. sorry if I made any one mad...would like to know if you put paper tape on one seam and durabond on the other wall why can you peel it off and the duabond side will rip the paper off the drywall ...it dont come off why use mud on a tape coat... I know the auto tapers use ALOT of water ...that cant be good.


lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,"I tap the nails and add some screews and clean it up then add mesh and durabond and its fixed"guess that paper tape made the drywall come loose then:whistling2:
I bet I can speak for everyone else on here,this topic MESH VS TAPE has been beaten to death.I don't think no one wants to even put the effort forth to even talk on it anymore .read all the post on this subject please,there are some very long and well written post on this matter.
we are willing to discuss and debate most anything on here.
but this subject is :wallbash:
someone put a sticky up on this topic
:ban:


----------



## JustMe

icerock drywall said:


> It just dont make sense to me..I get calls for rework on bad butts... form jobs with auto tapers. ......would like to know if you put paper tape on one seam and durabond on the other wall why can you peel it off and the duabond side will rip the paper off the drywall ...it dont come off why use mud on a tape coat... I know the auto tapers use ALOT of water ...that cant be good.



Sounds like you're coming behind people who don't know how to run auto tapers right enough. &/or maybe they used finishing mud at times, instead of taping or all-purpose mud? Haven't come across taping problems anywhere near like the ones you're talking about when it comes to auto tools.

I'm betting a big part of the problem is they're getting mud skipping on the tape backsides, which can be from a few auto taper operating errors.


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,lol,"I tap the nails and add some screews and clean it up then add mesh and durabond and its fixed"guess that paper tape made the drywall come loose then:whistling2:
> I bet I can speak for everyone else on here,this topic MESH VS TAPE has been beaten to death.I don't think no one wants to even put the effort forth to even talk on it anymore .read all the post on this subject please,there are some very long and well written post on this matter.
> we are willing to discuss and debate most anything on here.
> but this subject is :wallbash:
> someone put a sticky up on this topic
> :ban:


 Thank You 2Buck!!!!:thumbup:


----------



## Tim0282

You guys are in the dark ages using paper. Get in the 21st century and start using mesh! :blink: Just kidding of course!! I use paper!


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

Tim0282 said:


> You guys are in the dark ages using paper. Get in the 21st century and start using mesh! :blink: Just kidding of course!! I use paper!


 Ever wonder what the mesh guys do when the porta-john is out of paper??? Wonder if they think mesh is the answer for that one????


----------



## Tim0282

You are bad, Capt. Bad to the bone!! :thumbup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

Tim0282 said:


> You are bad, Capt. Bad to the bone!! :thumbup:


 Yeah,,, I'm pretty sure I need medication !!!


----------



## Tim0282

We all do when we have been in this business as long as you and I have.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Yeah,,, I'm pretty sure I need medication !!!


whats the 1st thing a Irishman does before he takes his medication
he blows the foam off the top of his beer:jester:
check your fridge to find your meds,I'm going to check mine for some:yes:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> whats the 1st thing a Irishman does before he takes his medication
> he blows the foam off the top of his beer:jester:
> check your fridge to find your meds,I'm going to check mine for some:yes:


 Ya know your sitting next to an Irishman at the bar, when a fly falls in his drink,,, and he picks it up by the back legs, and shakes it over his glass while hollaring,,, "spit it out you SOB!!!"


----------



## Axecutioner-B

:jester: Here's how i do corners, first i take a 10inch tube of white caulk & caulk the whole corner with it, then i wipe it in to the corner with my PINKY finger (this is similar to how you guys use your 2 1/2  ) . Then after my first coat (of caulk) has set, i go back & caulk my corners AGAIN (for added strength) & i wipe my corners in (nice & tight now) with my thumb (similar to how you guys are use your 3 1/2  ). Perfect corner everytime :thumbup: :jester:


Seriously tho, good topic & good reading, Thanks guys.
________
Naughty_wildbabe cam


----------



## McDusty

pretty sure you guys successfully scared that guy away.


----------



## D's

I recently finished a school that had 20 skylights 1'x4' wide by 5' high, oh and the ceilings were at 12'. To reach I had to work off a ladder on top of a baker. I seriously considered caulking the corners instead of taping and running angle heads, would've saved alot cursing . Did it right cause I'm a glutton for punishment.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

D's said:


> I recently finished a school that had 20 skylights 1'x4' wide by 5' high, oh and the ceilings were at 12'. To reach I had to work off a ladder on top of a baker. I seriously considered caulking the corners instead of taping and running angle heads, would've saved alot cursing . Did it right cause I'm a glutton for punishment.


a long long time ago I once caulked the corners,it was in a res apartment building .In the closets the ceilings were cement,and they wanted it taped.but I was like "to hell with that,Ill caulk them!" the DW contractor flipped out,screaming "you get so much to tape,so tape!!!" but when the job super seen it,he thought it was a better idea to caulk,and passed the buck to the painters hahahahahaha,,,,,,,,,,always fun to win battles:yes:
think it's a common practice now a days to caulk them


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

2buckcanuck said:


> a long long time ago I once caulked the corners,it was in a res apartment building .In the closets the ceilings were cement,and they wanted it taped.but I was like "to hell with that,Ill caulk them!" the DW contractor flipped out,screaming "you get so much to tape,so tape!!!" but when the job super seen it,he thought it was a better idea to caulk,and passed the buck to the painters hahahahahaha,,,,,,,,,,always fun to win battles:yes:
> think it's a common practice now a days to caulk them


 I agree there,,, I also nowdays, on a commercial job,, hang the rock TIGHT to the steel doors, and caulk them rather than flat tapeing em


----------



## SlimPickins

Capt-sheetrock said:


> I agree there,,, I also nowdays, on a commercial job,, hang the rock TIGHT to the steel doors, and caulk them rather than flat tapeing em


You don't slide the rock in the jamb?

While we're on the subject, why do they never order the doors made for steel studs? You spend half the time prying the jambs out so you can get the f*&%ing rock in there.

Here's a trick for getting those b!tches in there....take your hammer and dimple the spot where the brackets are located....one solid WHACK! usually does the job. And, since most of the interior walls are not structural, you haven't introduced a spot for support failure with the dimple.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> You don't slide the rock in the jamb?
> 
> While we're on the subject, why do they never order the doors made for steel studs? You spend half the time prying the jambs out so you can get the f*&%ing rock in there.
> 
> Here's a trick for getting those b!tches in there....take your hammer and dimple the spot where the brackets are located....one solid WHACK! usually does the job. And, since most of the interior walls are not structural, you haven't introduced a spot for support failure with the dimple.


45 the back of the dry wall,takes 5 seconds.......if your good:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins

2buckcanuck said:


> 45 the back of the dry wall,takes 5 seconds.......if your good:yes:


It takes me 1/2 hour. What are you trying to say? 

It takes 4.25 seconds to dimple the brackets Over the course of a bigger job, with 50 doors, that's 37.5 seconds saved.


----------



## 2buckcanuck

SlimPickins said:


> It takes me 1/2 hour. What are you trying to say?
> 
> It takes 4.25 seconds to dimple the brackets Over the course of a bigger job, with 50 doors, that's 37.5 seconds saved.


lol,,,,rock on:thumbsup:


----------



## Capt-sheetrock

I re-iterate,,,,,screw all that,,, just hang it tight, and caulk it.


----------



## Axecutioner-B

HeHe !! I thought you guys were gonna nail me for my caulk the corners post!!

When i did drywall for the first time the guy who was showing me what to do told me to caulk all the corners. This was about 2 years ago in a nice apartment complex where we recessed the fridge in the kitchen to make more counter space (there was very little counter space for these 3 bedroom apartments). I saw the job weeks after we did the work & there were cracks in the corners. After that i realized i couldn't trust the guy to show me what to do & i never caulked another corner. Since then i have also learned that i am terribly ing slow at taping corners.
________
Colorado medical marijuana


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## Capt-sheetrock

Really, If they hang it right and you can "slide" it behind do it then caulk the door jamb.

If they don't hang it right, cut the rock to butt up to the door jamb and then caulk the door jamb.

Why flat tape it. After you tape it, and skim it, the damn painters gonna CAULK THE DOOR JAMB !!!!!!!!


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## icerock drywall

2buckcanuck said:


> dare you to put a one year warranty on your work:yes:
> then in one year you will spend more time fixing your old work,rather than starting any new work:thumbsup:


I have not had a call back in five years and thats when I used paper tape and i dont use that anymore:whistling2:...the only call backs I get is more work on other projects:thumbsup: and go (((bears))) !!!


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## 2buckcanuck

oh joy....your back:whistling2:


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## cbbs

yo people just wondering if anyone knows if can am flusher handle fits angle head


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## PrairrieDogExpress

cbbs said:


> yo people just wondering if anyone knows if can am flusher handle fits angle head


yes it does


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## JustMe

cbbs said:


> yo people just wondering if anyone knows if can am flusher handle fits angle head


If memory serves, with Can-Am flusher handles, the ball is larger than eg. Columbia angle heads. So it would depend on the angle head you're using. Right offhand, I don't know if there are any angle heads that will marry up well enough to such a handle.


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## Saul_Surfaces

JustMe said:


> If memory serves, with Can-Am flusher handles, the ball is larger than eg. Columbia angle heads. So it would depend on the angle head you're using. Right offhand, I don't know if there are any angle heads that will marry up well enough to such a handle.


I use my BTE handle with tapetech and Drywall Master angle heads. It's a little tighter than the corner box put on, but once attached it works fine.


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## JustMe

Saul_Surfaces said:


> I use my BTE handle with tapetech and Drywall Master angle heads. It's a little tighter than the corner box put on, but once attached it works fine.


Ever tried fitting those angle heads on a Can-Am handle, though? If so, any luck?


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## Saul_Surfaces

are Can-am and BTE sized slightly different? I had both brands of flusher and they seemed to fit happily on my BTE pole.


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## Drywall_King

throw away your handle buy a tube with the proper BALL (If ball is to tight on the angle head you can slowley grind off the other ball in a nice round size to fit to spec slowley) handles suck if you need more mudd on a tube just push slowley and fill that bevel up the first time usally with taping mudd, make nice angles and dont leave holes everywhere in your work by using a cheap tin head flusher.. also the ridges on the tin heads suck man pay the extra cash, make your work look full and everyone else will see the differnce... cheers .....:thumbsup:


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## McDusty

Drywall_King said:


> throw away your handle buy a tube with the proper BALL (If ball is to tight on the angle head you can slowley grind off the other ball in a nice round size to fit to spec slowley) handles suck if you need more mudd on a tube just push slowley and fill that bevel up the first time usally with taping mudd, make nice angles and dont leave holes everywhere in your work by using a cheap tin head flusher.. also the ridges on the tin heads suck man pay the extra cash, make your work look full and everyone else will see the differnce... cheers .....:thumbsup:




yes Can-Am are sized slightly different than BTE.


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## JustMe

Saul_Surfaces said:


> are Can-am and BTE sized slightly different? I had both brands of flusher and they seemed to fit happily on my BTE pole.


I'm betting your BTE flushers are a little smaller ball size wise, and so would fit tighter than the Can-Am flushers on your BTE handle.

I micrometered the ball sizes on a plastic tipped Can-Am tube and a Columbia steel tipped angle head handle that I have handy. The Can-Am is 40 thou larger. A BTE flusher that I also have handy fits the Columbia nicely, and is tighter on the Can-Am.


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## Newagestucco

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Ya know your sitting next to an Irishman at the bar, when a fly falls in his drink,,, and he picks it up by the back legs, and shakes it over his glass while hollaring,,, "spit it out you SOB!!!"


Now that's funny


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## Bazooka-Joe

Capt-sheetrock said:


> Ever wonder what the mesh guys do when the porta-john is out of paper??? Wonder if they think mesh is the answer for that one????


they think the brown mud comes through the holes:whistling2:


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