# Window returns with Trim-Tex Super L-bead



## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

Hey guys, I've got a house coming up where the HO wants all 25 window returns to be paint finish drywall. The returns are 2.5" deep so I'm going to try some Trim-Tex Super L-Bead so only the wall side will need to be coated. Anyone used this product for such an application before? Is it a time/$ saver? Any tips? Does it accept paint well?

Many thanks


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

I don't see why not, the only problem I see is you will half to have good aim with the spray cans of glue around the windows, or use mud. Plus vinyl bead will require 3 coats. I would be more concerned with condensation in Canuck land, I would maybe keep it back from the window a 1/8 of a inch, then caulk. IMO


----------



## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

The rough opening is a couple inches bigger than the actual window and the window jamb itself is recessed 2.5" back from the wall. The plan is to install plywood jamb extensions then glue the bead leg to the ply and the bead face to the drywall. Since only the vinyl bead is in contact with window if condensation occurs.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

I have never used the Trim-tex product. But I have used a similar product in metal and have found it a realy great product.
http://www.ezyjamb.com.au/ezy-reveal.html


----------



## suncoast drywaller (Sep 4, 2009)

gazman said:


> I have never used the Trim-tex product. But I have used a similar product in metal and have found it a realy great product.
> http://www.ezyjamb.com.au/ezy-reveal.html


The metal ezyjamb is certainly the way to go. The plastic alternative also has the potential to warp and twist due to sunlight and heat


----------



## cdwoodcox (Jan 3, 2011)

I would use the trim-tex far superior material than metal.


----------



## rockdaddy (Jul 2, 2009)

thr trim tex is ok but is more trouble than it's worth. Usually have to rip down the profile to make it work and then the mitres gotta be tight. Whenever someone wants all the windows done on three sides I try to talk them out of it and shift the conversation to having the trimmer wrap the windows with wood. Always try to make the cost a little higher than the trimmer so he can deal with. In the end the go backs 8-10 months later arent worth the cost. Too many cracks. spend the money up front instead of cheaping out.


----------



## Jason (Feb 27, 2011)

D's said:


> The rough opening is a couple inches bigger than the actual window and the window jamb itself is recessed 2.5" back from the wall. The plan is to install plywood jamb extensions then glue the bead leg to the ply and the bead face to the drywall. Since only the vinyl bead is in contact with window if condensation occurs.


If they oversized the openings too much you can rough in with ply then use rock coated with hotmud to square it up just right, then screw it off once the mud is set.

I found the plastic too floppy. Much prefer metal. Or use standard x bead and install the rock reveals with a 3mm slant so the bead brings it square.

Best to do the reveal rock strips first so you're routing your wallboards to them.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

rockdaddy said:


> thr trim tex is ok but is more trouble than it's worth. Usually have to rip down the profile to make it work and then the mitres gotta be tight. Whenever someone wants all the windows done on three sides I try to talk them out of it and shift the conversation to having the trimmer wrap the windows with wood. Always try to make the cost a little higher than the trimmer so he can deal with. In the end the go backs 8-10 months later arent worth the cost. Too many cracks. spend the money up front instead of cheaping out.


Excellent point

People think the material and your labour will be cheaper than them doing things in wood. Best to explain to them their paying for a look. Not for you to cheap out so they can hang curtains over your work:yes:


----------



## D's (Jan 15, 2009)

This post is long overdue but here is my experience with the Super-L beads.

The guys at Trim-Tex were their usual awesome selves, sending lots of pics of installed bead and giving detailed installation instructions.

The rough opening was largely oversized for the windows that were installed so the carpenters had to fir out the sides to within an 1/8". For adhesive, Trim-tex recommended their latex caulk but I didn't have any so went with PL400 instead(they graciously sent me some samples though for next time). Once the adhesive was applied I smeared it evenly across the inside of the bead leg then did the face of the board and bead with spray adhesive, installed and stapled. Set up great but the tubes only did 2 windows a piece and were tough to gun. It was also tricky to get the bead leg to sit tighly against the window jamb without a gap. So.... I switched to my handy foam gun! 

Here's some pics of the test piece...

































With the foam, applying adhesive was much faster at 1/10th the $'s, and the foam would expand enough behind the bead leg to snug it up tight against the window frame as well as fill any hollow spots. As an experiment, I installed the bead regardless of a 1/2" gap between window and rough opening without a problem. The foam adhesive caused a slight bow in the return in some cases but it wasn't noticeable enough to be a problem. Overall I'm sold on it as an effective way to deliver the "clean lines" look some customers prefer and clearly affordable compared to the finished wood trim alternative.


----------



## Trim-Tex (May 4, 2011)

NICE! 
Thinking outside the box is a good thing....Kudos to you.

The great Wayne Gretzky always said: You miss 100% of the shots you don't take!

Joe


----------



## saskataper (Mar 6, 2011)

Thanks for this thread, on monday I start a chiropractors office which has a bunch of big windows that all have about a 2" return. I picked up regular square bead for it but now that i know about this stuff I'm going to grab some on monday, i called the supplier and they have one box left. It should save me at least a couple hours not having to put on three coats and then sponge sand it all.


----------

