# Bullnose Corners



## JonBoy

Just wanted to know everyone's techniques for getting those outside bullnose corners to match up to a tight 90 around windows and such. Does anyone find the 2-way plastic bullnose corners helpful or is simply cutting the best way?

Thanks,

Jon


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## taper71

I always cut them. I have used those two way corners. You still have to hide the joins on both sides plus the extra expense, and extra time for install just wasn't worth it for me.


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## Stilts

I usually just cut the corners. I've always had problems with the vinyl corners cracking eventually. Once it cracks once and we caulk it though it seems to last just fine. I have to agree with the extra time to hide the joint between them too, takes way too long and then there's the expense of the corner itself.


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## Tim0282

envae, I bet you don't do drywall much, do you? Too busy making the big bucks cutting hair!! I'm pretty sure they have a forum just to suit you... and your type. Over there in the wigwam. Are you from San Francisco? Or Pittsburg?


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## silverstilts

Bull-nose yuck it may look nice, but to install it does seem to take a lot of time when it comes to doing a doorway at the 90 degree there is no real easy way to do it. cutting them by hand at a 45 degree certainly is more easy to finish and does look a little more cleaner the transitional blocks are nice also if you contact cement them in place but be carful to get them on straight , plum , & square the first time otherwise it can be a real mess to correct..... I had a few jobs where the contractors uses pre-cut wooden blocks for the lower end of bull-nose where it hits the floor , it goes on over the bull-nose and there base butts up to it (outside corner blocks) but few like to use these because of the expense , some have even cut there base to fit around the bottom but again costly for the contractor , they usually like the taper to absorb the time and cost to finish it , by the way i usually figure about $65.00 per opening since an average door opening uses 7 different piece per side , 2 base blocks , 2 90 degree blocks & 3 pieces of bead a lot of messing around x 2 for a complete opening , and the worst is when you have a round archway that is worse yet , so $65 in reality isn't not so much it barely covers the cost or material alone... And i also use the paper faced bead instead of the vinal it not only lays flater but much stronger ......


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## silverstilts

I was just thinking a while ago i seen something that you could purchase that you can use to form bull-nose by simply inserting the end of your bead into it and pulling down on the handle which reforms it into a square edge so you don't have to use any transitional blocks , has anyone used one??? and do they justify the cost??? I am sure they would save some time especially in the 90 degree fits , not to mention the cost of all those plastic transitional blocks at about $2 apiece x 8 for just a door opening or window opening..... Hmmmm something to think about, or would it be just some other tool to sit around ????


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## silverstilts

envae said:


> Be sure to use styling tools specially made for Lace Wig such as a wig styling comb, wig brush or wig pic comb. CAUTION: When styling synthetic Lace Wigs never use heating styling tools on your wig or expose your Full Lace Wigs to excess sources of heat such as: hair dryers, curling irons, open ovens, boiling water, barbecue grills and even some cigarette lighters, because the heat will damage the fibers. When styling Human Hair Wigs you can use all the tools you have used on your own hair (hair dryer, curling iron, hot rollers) and do not need to worry about heat exposure, but must use products especially formulated for Lace Front Wigs.


 So envae any advice on some of us tapers that through the years with all the dust and overspray in our hair what one could do to replace it???:blink:


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## AtlanticWB

JonBoy said:


> Just wanted to know everyone's techniques for getting those outside bullnose corners to match up to a tight 90 around windows and such. Does anyone find the 2-way plastic bullnose corners helpful or is simply cutting the best way?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jon


 
:blink: ....We've never had a problem, or difficulty, installing vinyl BN, and taping by standard coating techiniques.....If you can tape = it all lines up...


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## Apple24

Trim tex glue only way to go on vinyl bn done miles of it stray away from 3m dries to fast either way spray flange and dryall and run to get them on nevr had a problem with them comming off in 10 years is expensive though


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## Apple24

I know a guy who run vinyl through a hopper of mud and sticks them on with ap compound how long ya think tHose beads wiil last ass nine


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## 19Riggs88

I used to use only metal and all the fittings for the inside turns until I saw a carpenter use a miter chop saw to cut vinyl. What a nice fit.. especially for all the inside turns! After finish I put a nice small bead of painters caulk in the corners just before prime. 

Of course I still use the fittings for the outside turns.


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## brdn_drywall

i only use the base adapters and 3-way adapters, miter all my 2-ways instead of the adapters though to many touch-up coating to make the adapter to bead joint perfect, also after cutting the miter i slap a little taping mud on the inside of the miter when pressed in place mud oozes out and finger wipe it tight 
also agree with apple on the 3m/trim-tex spray glue comparison.


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## eastex1963

brdn_drywall said:


> i only use the base adapters and 3-way adapters, miter all my 2-ways instead of the adapters though to many touch-up coating to make the adapter to bead joint perfect, also after cutting the miter i slap a little taping mud on the inside of the miter when pressed in place mud oozes out and finger wipe it tight
> also agree with apple on the 3m/trim-tex spray glue comparison.


Hey brdn,
A stupid question on my part, I know. I've been drywallin' around 30 yrs. I live in VERY rural east texas. Bullnose bead is just now gettin' round to these here parts. Residential anyways. I've done more and more bn here lately. I use the vinyl bn. And yes, I use the 2-ways for inside corners. And yes, I have to use painters caulk on the joints. 

My question is when you cut them and not use the 2-ways, do you use a miter box and 45 them? Seems I tried that and they didn't line up so well. What did I do wrong? Doing a house now, installing the bead in a day or so. I'd like to cut the added cost and labor. Thanks for some help.

David


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## Tim0282

David, there is an adapter that TrimTex hands out for cutting miters. Then just mark with a pencil and cut with snips. I like the Fiskars gardening snips from WalMart. The paper face with metal are easier to finish in that they take the texture, paint better. The plastic looks different even after primed and painted.


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## brdn_drywall

ya tim and i take this for granted it's the easiest thing in the world to do with the trim-tex bullnose mitre gage, hopefully ya can get your hands on one.


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## eastex1963

Thanks guys,
I found those online. 50 to a box. My supplier that carries the bn doesn't have the mitre gage, go figure. Wanna send me one? lol. just kiddin'.


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## eastex1963

Hey guys,
I installed the bn today. Didn't use the 2 ways. I overlapped the bn onto the 2 way. Measured back. It came to 7/8 of an inch. Transferred the measurement to the actual bn, then free handed the cut. It worked pretty well. I'll caulk after the mud dries. Cool. No more 2 ways to deal with.


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## brdn_drywall

if ya take the 2-way adapter and using your snips or a sharp blade and carefully cut down the center of the angle you would have two pieces to use as jiggs to trace the 45 onto the bn


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## [email protected]

If you use a miter saw you might have better luck putting the blade on backwards, won't throw chunks as bad.


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## MudMonkey

wow, you guys make it sound so complicated, i just use my yellow trimtex guide and snips. Those corner adaptors suck. I don't even use the 3 way caps...just cut and shape. I do a lot of bull and baby bull and have only every used my guide and snips.


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## brdn_drywall

wtf you don't use 3-way's take a picture of the "cut and shape" method (pre-mud) and post it please.


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## alltex

I dont even use a guide ,just free hand it,no sweat!


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## brdn_drywall

lol i'm sure you do, just curious of the quality and integrity of the three joints that are cut and how they would be coated for a perfect rounded finish.


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## MudMonkey

Hopefully i remember next time i have some. I just cut them round, con fill the gaps which are small and coat over. It makes life a lot easier when I have an offset angle on a curved bulkhead or what not.


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