# 120 Grit



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

120 grit works good,there 2buck finally agree with you,

I just used it today and that sheep herder 2buck was on my mind

so what do you guys think of 120?


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

I like the 120 paper I use. Use it for quick rough sanding back the 1st coat, and quick sanding back the finish coat some, before finer sanding it with usually 180. Sometimes I'll use 150 in place of the 120, and sometimes I'll use 150 in place of the 180. It depends.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I like the lowe's paper....It's weak!


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

moore said:


> I like the lowe's paper....It's weak!


Hey moore i like those gator grit pole sanders.and paper i think they work pretty well plus there light


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> 120 grit works good,there 2buck finally agree with you,
> 
> I just used it today and that sheep herder 2buck was on my mind
> 
> so what do you guys think of 120?


120 is awesome:thumbup:

But don't forget, it depends on what type of mud you use. I prefer tougher muds, they buff out nicer with a higher grit, and leave no sanding lines.

But some like to use softer muds,,,,, like machine mud:whistling2:, 180 grit, looks like 120 grit was used:yes:


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

120 grit? What the f*** is this, a furniture finishing forum?

60 grit b!tches!


----------



## harvey randall (Nov 23, 2010)

*60 g*

thats some good stuff, i use 80 on first sand- dust and coat- then 150- if L-5, then 180.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

As Mrs Brown would say

ITS FECKIN CHITE :yes:

120g = Exterior paint prep.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

gazman said:


> Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
> Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it.


Our topping is the same way. If I put a scratch in it with 180-220, I use my hand to buff it out. So easy to sand.....but so difficult to sand perfectly.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

gazman said:


> Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
> Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it.


That's what Moose boys mud is like, using 120 grit on his mud, would look like slimpickins recommended 60 grit:whistling2:

Was on a commercial job long time ago, I was liking the machine mud back then, but not the DWC. He stopped supplying it. Why, just too dam soft. Think about rows of stand ups, and people running their hands across the joint to see how smooth and flat it is. Every taper knows what I mean by that, when you say your done, people run their hands across the joints for some reason. It's like putting up a "wet paint" sign, everyone wants to touch it, to see if it's wet.

Then throw in everyday abuse on the walls, people leaning up or brushing against the walls. All the flats would half to get re-done


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Every taper knows what I mean by that, when you say your done, people run their hands across the joints for some reason.


Yep, and with the soft muds that sh!t will show. 

"Hey! Don't touch those f%$&ing walls!!" :laughing:


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> 120 grit? What the f*** is this, a furniture finishing forum?
> 
> 60 grit b!tches!


still on the darkside I see


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

I use sponge back 120 all the time, i use it to rough sand and to finish sand. If i use machine mud i have a roll of 150. i sand a couple of closets first then i'm good to go. But i'm like 2buck i use hard mud. Soft mud is for the pansy tapers.


----------



## Mudstar (Feb 15, 2008)

gazman said:


> Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
> Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it.



sounds like your busting you a$$ off

:yes:


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

gazman said:


> Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
> Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it.


sounds good for topping

guy used AP on a job hand slam Yuk, all the way to finnish


----------



## Southbound_60 (May 23, 2012)

What is machine mud? I finish with USG Plus 3 all time, so it's always 150, and medium grit 3m blocks. I also use a Radius360 polesanding head. Best pole sander ever! It also means I can use the same paper on my Porter Cable rotary sander. As far as sanding between coats? Thats a rookie move.if you block it right, you shouldn't need to sand between coats! Unless maybe your doing some nasty patch work.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Southbound_60 said:


> What is machine mud? I finish with USG Plus 3 all time, so it's always 150, and medium grit 3m blocks. I also use a Radius360 polesanding head. Best pole sander ever! It also means I can use the same paper on my Porter Cable rotary sander. As far as sanding between coats? Thats a rookie move.if you block it right, you shouldn't need to sand between coats! Unless maybe your doing some nasty patch work.


Dammit ,I'm a Rookie then

Please teach everything you know:yes:


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

Im doing a room right now that i tore out the wall paper and skimmed it Twice and it still looks pretty bad lots of lines that i call streakers or hitch hikers. Im sanding most of them out. Is there anything different I can do or should have done for next time.


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Dammit ,I'm a Rookie then
> Me 2!!!!:blink:
> Please teach us everything you know:yes:[/QUOTE


----------



## bmitch (Dec 10, 2011)

i guess i have to consider myself to be a rookie also.if i don,t buff it, i don,t coat it.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Southbound_60 said:


> What is machine mud? I finish with USG Plus 3 all time, so it's always 150, and medium grit 3m blocks. I also use a Radius360 polesanding head. Best pole sander ever! It also means I can use the same paper on my Porter Cable rotary sander. As far as sanding between coats? Thats a rookie move.if you block it right, you shouldn't need to sand between coats! Unless maybe your doing some nasty patch work.


I've done jobs where the 1st coat wasn't sanded, or where there was no sanding at all, because of a big concern over any dust getting into things like sensitive electronic components.
But it added to the overall time for putting the mud on, as well as diminishing the overall quality of the finished product.

I'm wondering how much added time it could be taking you to make sure everything is done right enough on the 1st coat so you don't have to sand for the 2nd coat. A rough sand of the 1st coat takes little time, if the coat is done decently enough. Just a quick skiff sand is all that should be required.

A 1st quick sand also helps me put on the next coat well enough yet tight enough that I rarely pull out my Porter Cable after. It's usually just not that necessary.

I have one of those Radius360s as well. Like you, I thought that using the same paper between my Radius and my Porter Cable could be all right. But I found I still preferred my BTE sander, as well as the Radius's sister/brother, the Flex Edge sander. At least for the type of jobs I do, which is mostly all commercial.

Having said all that, if you are able to 1st coat in a way that doesn't need sanding, and doesn't interfere with the speed and quality of the overall job, then :notworthy:. Like the others, I wait to be taught.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

I sand the fuk out of my block coat..LOL!


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I've done jobs where the 1st coat wasn't sanded, or where there was no sanding at all, because of a big concern over any dust getting into things like sensitive electronic components.
> But it added to the overall time for putting the mud on, as well as diminishing the overall quality of the finished product.
> 
> I'm wondering how much added time it could be taking you to make sure everything is done right enough on the 1st coat so you don't have to sand for the 2nd coat. A rough sand of the 1st coat takes little time, if the coat is done decently enough. Just a quick skiff sand is all that should be required.
> ...


Hey man thanks for the Novel

I only dust my walls,the kool thing about running tight, but I can't say any more I might teach seenor Moore and 2buck a trick


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> Hey man thanks for the Novel


You're welcome. I figured that since this was your thread, it deserved my best efforts. 



Bazooka-Joe said:


> I only dust my walls,the kool thing about running tight


Are you doing 2 coats, or 3?

Or were you once saying something about a 'special blend' or something? 



Bazooka-Joe said:


> but I can't say any more I might teach seenor Moore and 2buck a trick


Absolutely. They know too much already. :whistling2:


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

JustMe said:


> You're welcome. I figured that since this was your thread, it deserved my best efforts.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


2 coats, 3 on bead kustomshack 3


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

I always rough sand...you get flat spots and ridges. Well with the muds i use. You might think you dont need to sand but in fact you do lol. My work i always vut and tools checked and adjusted daily. Or maybe i'm the butcher haha


----------



## Southbound_60 (May 23, 2012)

Fellas, I may have put my foot iny mouth with the "rookie" statement! I guess every region has different techniques. I've been finishing for 27 years, but haven't exactly gotten around the country, or globe. But I never sand between coats. What would you do that for? To flatten out your butt joints maybe? I can't see the benefit, for me, anyways.I may run a sanding sponge down the nosing of my beads, but that's it. I scrape all my pull off marks on my flats and beads as I skim. I can coat about 100-135 sheets a day( no machines). It would just be one more step for me. I can submit pictures of my block coat for inspection if you like! :whistling2: I know, I'm getting old!


----------



## Southbound_60 (May 23, 2012)

:yes: also, I am available for sand free block coat lessons if you guys feel like coming to VA.! :whistling2::whistling2:


----------



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Southbound_60 said:


> Fellas, I may have put my foot iny mouth with the "rookie" statement! I guess every region has different techniques. I've been finishing for 27 years, but haven't exactly gotten around the country, or globe. But I never sand between coats. What would you do that for? To flatten out your butt joints maybe? I can't see the benefit, for me, anyways.I may run a sanding sponge down the nosing of my beads, but that's it. I scrape all my pull off marks on my flats and beads as I skim. I can coat about 100-135 sheets a day( no machines). It would just be one more step for me. I can submit pictures of my block coat for inspection if you like! :whistling2: I know, I'm getting old!


If I only coated a 100 to 135 sheets a day I wouldn't have to rough sand my block coat either:jester:


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

Southbound_60 said:


> Fellas, I may have put my foot iny mouth with the "rookie" statement! I guess every region has different techniques. I've been finishing for 27 years, but haven't exactly gotten around the country, or globe. But I never sand between coats. What would you do that for? To flatten out your butt joints maybe? I can't see the benefit, for me, anyways.I may run a sanding sponge down the nosing of my beads, but that's it. I scrape all my pull off marks on my flats and beads as I skim. I can coat about 100-135 sheets a day( no machines). It would just be one more step for me. I can submit pictures of my block coat for inspection if you like! :whistling2: I know, I'm getting old!


disco lips at work jumps on me the other week for not sanding my angles enough on first coat, brush out was all I did, if there is a taper in the house that can tell me angles dry first I will tell him 2buck is waiting to tie into him, so yes it sits so long wet and what happens in the mean time is soaks out the angle


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Bazooka-Joe said:


> disco lips at work jumps on me the other week for not sanding my angles enough on first coat, brush out was all I did, if there is a taper in the house that can tell me angles dry first I will tell him 2buck is waiting to tie into him, so yes it sits so long wet and what happens in the mean time is soaks out the angle


Just use one of these, that should shut him up:yes:

We just duct tape it to a pole sander, Then our feet never half to leave the ground:whistling2:

pretty smart........ eh' Joe:thumbsup:

that shall be 2bucks for that secret:jester:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

Southbound_60 said:


> What would you do that for? I'm getting old!


Mostly so you don't pick up any trash when running tools and knock down lap marks. I't doesn't take any longer than scraping stuff down. Believe it or not it makes the final coat easier to sand too. I didn't used to sand block coats but I do now.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Southbound_60 said:


> Fellas, I may have put my foot iny mouth with the "rookie" statement! I guess every region has different techniques. I've been finishing for 27 years, but haven't exactly gotten around the country, or globe. But I never sand between coats. What would you do that for? To flatten out your butt joints maybe? I can't see the benefit, for me, anyways.I may run a sanding sponge down the nosing of my beads, but that's it. I scrape all my pull off marks on my flats and beads as I skim. I can coat about 100-135 sheets a day( no machines). It would just be one more step for me. I can submit pictures of my block coat for inspection if you like! :whistling2: I know, I'm getting old!


Are you doing 2 or 3 coats on flats, butts, bead? Except on the odd occasion, we have to get it right in 2 coats for everything we do, so the putting on of mud can be a little less forgiving than if we were doing 3 coats.

I've done the scrape off lift marks on flats and beads, as I'm sure most all here have. Will still do it the odd time, in certain given situations, especially with some bead.

Just to make sure we're on the same wavelength, when I say sanding of 1st coat, I'm meaning something like what 2buck is doing here, except without the cigarette:






As for the pics of your block coat for inspection, how would we know the pics were of your block coat? :whistling2:


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Southbound_60 said:


> :yes: also, I am available for sand free block coat lessons if you guys feel like coming to VA.! :whistling2::whistling2:


Virginia? Do you know moore? Do all you Virginians do everything by hand? Except of course for your Porter Cable sander.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Southbound_60 said:


> Fellas, I may have put my foot iny mouth with the "rookie" statement! I guess every region has different techniques. I've been finishing for 27 years, but haven't exactly gotten around the country, or globe. But I never sand between coats. What would you do that for? To flatten out your butt joints maybe? I can't see the benefit, for me, anyways.I may run a sanding sponge down the nosing of my beads, but that's it. I scrape all my pull off marks on my flats and beads as I skim. I can coat about 100-135 sheets a day( no machines). It would just be one more step for me. I can submit pictures of my block coat for inspection if you like! :whistling2: I know, I'm getting old!


 Would love to see some pics!! At $8 a board ..You would have no choice but to coat in 135 boards in a day:jester:
Give the flat boxes a try Southbound..


----------



## VANMAN (Jan 14, 2011)

Southbound_60 said:


> Fellas, I may have put my foot iny mouth with the "rookie" statement! I guess every region has different techniques. I've been finishing for 27 years, but haven't exactly gotten around the country, or globe. But I never sand between coats. What would you do that for? To flatten out your butt joints maybe? I can't see the benefit, for me, anyways.I may run a sanding sponge down the nosing of my beads, but that's it. I scrape all my pull off marks on my flats and beads as I skim. I can coat about 100-135 sheets a day( no machines). It would just be one more step for me. I can submit pictures of my block coat for inspection if you like! :whistling2: I know, I'm getting old!


I dont understand why any1 would not sand their first/second coat before finish?:blink:I sand the **** out of the whole house before finish so that the last coat is just that and there is no chance of anything showing after Mr painter comes along Its maybe just me but i sand all edges before final boxing then there is no chance of anything showing:thumbup:


----------



## Southbound_60 (May 23, 2012)

sdrdrywall said:


> If I only coated a 100 to 135 sheets a day I wouldn't have to rough sand my block coat either:jester:


sdr, are you a hand finisher, or do you use machines? when I was in my thirties and we were doing cookie cutter spec houses, I could do up to 200 a day. I have actually been looking at buying as set of boxes. we used to rent them from Ames tools. Here in the norhtern Va area, most finishers are hand finishers. and also dig in their heels when it comes to change! I tape, then block, then skim. thats two coats on my flats and two on my butts. unless of course, some bad framing or board calls for extra coats. and no finishers here in Northern VA that I've ever seen sand between coats. It's just the way I learned. I can see the benefits, but I just dont do it. as far as a picture of my block coat, you'd just have to trust me.  I will take some video of me actually doing it. No, I don't know Moore.


----------



## sdrdrywall (Sep 4, 2010)

Southbound_60 said:


> sdr, are you a hand finisher, or do you use machines? when I was in my thirties and we were doing cookie cutter spec houses, I could do up to 200 a day. I have actually been looking at buying as set of boxes. we used to rent them from Ames tools. Here in the norhtern Va area, most finishers are hand finishers. and also dig in their heels when it comes to change! I tape, then block, then skim. thats two coats on my flats and two on my butts. unless of course, some bad framing or board calls for extra coats. and no finishers here in Northern VA that I've ever seen sand between coats. It's just the way I learned. I can see the benefits, but I just dont do it. as far as a picture of my block coat, you'd just have to trust me.  I will take some video of me actually doing it. No, I don't know Moore.


I'm a machine finisher wouldn't do it any other way .sometimes you have to realise there's other ways of doing things that are just as good or better than our current method.sometimes it just an ego thing I know lots of handfinishers who won't change because in some way it hurts there pride .wasn't trying to hurt your feelings but if you could coat your 130 sheets by 9:00 you could hit another job and really increaseyour income .something to consider


----------



## Bazooka-Joe (Dec 31, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Are you doing 2 or 3 coats on flats, butts, bead? Except on the odd occasion, we have to get it right in 2 coats for everything we do, so the putting on of mud can be a little less forgiving than if we were doing 3 coats.
> 
> I've done the scrape off lift marks on flats and beads, as I'm sure most all here have. Will still do it the odd time, in certain given situations, especially with some bead.
> 
> ...


Thanks and maybe I can email this to Disco Lips


----------



## Southbound_60 (May 23, 2012)

Bazooka Joe, I got thick skin! Lol!! I used the machines for a while and they are faster. I would like to get a set of boxes. Not too sure about the angle runners though.but I doubt I will ever sand between coats. I don't know about you guys, but sanding is my least favorite part of the job.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Southbound_60 said:


> I don't know about you guys, but sanding is my least favorite part of the job.


Which is one reason why I sand between coats. For me, it's not the # of times I sand so much as how much I have to sand in total.
A skiff sand after the 1st coat helps keep down how much sanding is needed on the final coat. It also helps with job quality, which can mean less things like checkout touchups. Which can then mean less sanding of those areas as well.
At least that's how it works for me.

When you're videoing your coating, maybe consider later videoing the 2nd coat going on, and the sanding of it out as well? - so we could better see how those following steps turn out with no 1st coat sanding?

Here's a followup to 2buck's 1st coat rough sanding video I posted previously - his sidekick, 2buckjr., showing how he sands out their final coat: 




That's pretty much my approach as well, except that I'll run the angles and screws with 180 (or 150) on my BTE sander instead, because the lesser width of the sander head and paper I usually use on it offers an easier means for sanding/feathering those things out I find than does my Flex Edge, which 2bkjr is using one of at the beginning with 120 on it.

With your coating style, would you be going over that with your Porter Cable after the 2nd coat, followed by your Radius 360?


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

And you guys scream overkill at me!!:blink:


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

this is how it's done!!!


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

moore said:


> this is how it's done!!!Sanding Drywall before Applying the Wall Texture Finish - Home Building and Remodeling Advice - YouTube


Yeah, with 80 grit. Your favourite.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Yeah, with 80 grit. Your favourite.


 I plead the 5th


----------



## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

What is the best to use the sanding mesh or regular sand paper.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> What is the best to use the sanding mesh or regular sand paper.


I only use special Japanese rice sand paper.


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

gazman said:


> Our muds must be softer, I use 220.
> Tried some mud from Boral last week, you could hand sand it. I mean you could literally use your hand to sand it.


Was it 4T orange? man that stuff was really soft and easy to sand, just did a whole house with 4t white and orange (brown whatever) very easy to sand allways use 220


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

moore said:


> this is how it's done!!!Sanding Drywall before Applying the Wall Texture Finish - Home Building and Remodeling Advice - YouTube


that guy is rough as guts, the only thing thats gonna fix his work is lots of fire,


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

JustMe said:


> Which is one reason why I sand between coats. For me, it's not the # of times I sand so much as how much I have to sand in total.
> A skiff sand after the 1st coat helps keep down how much sanding is needed on the final coat. It also helps with job quality, which can mean less things like checkout touchups. Which can then mean less sanding of those areas as well.
> At least that's how it works for me.
> 
> ...



I could have finished the ceilings and then sanded the floor in that time with my Vac and power sander


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Drywall_King said:


> Was it 4T orange? man that stuff was really soft and easy to sand, just did a whole house with 4t white and orange (brown whatever) very easy to sand allways use 220



It was Boral Lite Finish. I couldnt find it on the Boral web site, but here is a link to a stockist.
http://www.ernsmith.com.au/default.aspx?d=2591862


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Drywall_King said:


> I could have finished the ceilings and then sanded the floor in that time with my Vac and power sander


I believe you could, but I'm wondering about the quality. Just as good? No more cleanup with sponge and light than you'd get from a pole sander?

I've seen a few videos now of guys showing their PC sanding speed skills. But the videos have been shot from a distance. There hasn't been much - right now I can't think of any - in the way of a lot of good close up shots as well, showing the quality left behind. Anyone know of any?


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

This is the only one I can lay my hands on right now.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Drywall_King said:


> I could have finished the ceilings and then sanded the floor in that time with my Vac and power sander


Prove it:yes::yes:


----------



## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Prove it:yes::yes:


2buck, wait till you learn the power sander, it's gonna change the way you sand forever. That was painfully slow watching Jr. finish sand.:yes: Btw, we don't sand our screws that hard. 2 pumps with the pole (or one pass with the PS) unless ,for some reason, they needed to be busted out.


----------



## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> I only use special Japanese rice sand paper.


Thanks for the help


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> Thanks for the help


 I never cared for the screen Scott.. It's just a rough nasty sand paper imo..no matter what the grit.


----------



## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

moore said:


> I never cared for the screen Scott.. It's just a rough nasty sand paper imo..no matter what the grit.


Thats why i was asking.I dont tape alot but the last time i did and sanded i used mesh seemed like it roughed up the drywall.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

gazman said:


> This is the only one I can lay my hands on right now.


Just to make sure I've got it right, that's a shot from PC sanding? If so, thanks for that, gaz. Was there any followup pole sanding needed, or was the job pretty much good to go as it stood after maybe some touchup sponge sanding?

I took another look around Youtube for PC sanding that showed some closeup video of overall quality. None as of yet. Just video shot from a distance.

I'm still hopeful that speed with quality is possible with a PC. Anyone willing to prove in a video to 2buck, saskataper, ........ that it can be so if one perseveres?


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Btw, Southbound, when I mentioned



JustMe said:


> Which is one reason why I sand between coats. For me, it's not the # of times I sand so much as how much I have to sand in total.
> A skiff sand after the 1st coat helps keep down how much sanding is needed on the final coat. It also helps with job quality, which can mean less things like checkout touchups. Which can then mean less sanding of those areas as well.
> At least that's how it works for me.


to your



Southbound_60 said:


> I don't know about you guys, but sanding is my least favorite part of the job.


I was going to also say that with your running a PC to take everything back after your 2nd coat, I can appreciate your maybe not being as concerned about a little more possible buildup of your 2nd coat in places from not sanding the 1st one.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The join in that pic has been sanded with the PC only. Exactly the same system as I did in this video. I always use Joest 220.





http://youtu.be/gf20qumozuA


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

gazman said:


> The join in that pic has been sanded with the PC only. Exactly the same system as I did in this video. I always use Joest 220.
> 
> 2012-06-07_08-13-39_179.mp4 - YouTube


Mostly all 220 Joest for me as well.

Nice steady form. I could see that turning out all right, with little if really any pole sanding needed after.

That's where I last used mine to any large degree - sanding back especially the ceiling in a big colonial style house side job.

Tell the truth, even if I did have to pole sand some after, if I was doing more ceiling work - get little in my commercial work - I'd be having and using a power sander to at least knock back ceiling flats, sand ceiling screws, before finishing with a pole sander.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

P.A. ROCKER said:


> 2buck, wait till you learn the power sander, it's gonna change the way you sand forever. That was painfully slow watching Jr. finish sand.:yes: Btw, we don't sand our screws that hard. 2 pumps with the pole (or one pass with the PS) unless ,for some reason, they needed to be busted out.


Were willing to try one, just can't find anywhere to rent one FIRST. Even Home Depot said they stopped renting them, they always came back broke.

Screws are the main thing I would want it for. Plus things depend on how we do screws. I like last coat with nail spotter. But a lot of DWC flip out about the nail spotter. Which would take it's own thread to explain why:furious:


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> Were willing to try one, just can't find anywhere to rent one FIRST. Even Home Depot said they stopped renting them, they always came back broke.
> 
> Screws are the main thing I would want it for. Plus things depend on how we do screws. I like last coat with nail spotter. But a lot of DWC flip out about the nail spotter. Which would take it's own thread to explain why:furious:


I bought a Sander and Vac off ebay for $230... why rent? might be a cheap chinese brand but it works!


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

gazman said:


> The join in that pic has been sanded with the PC only. Exactly the same system as I did in this video. I always use Joest 220.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Dont you like my butts?:blink:
No need to bust them out two feet wide if you use the Rebate Mate.


----------



## Drywall_King (Dec 18, 2010)

gazman said:


> Dont you like my butts?:blink:
> No need to bust them out two feet wide if you use the Rebate Mate.


I guess mate, you have it figured out, a very clean job, and a very easy job at that, screws in the middle, i fix sagging ceilings all the time and glue never holds and having screws in the middle is good for the setter but the sheet seems to fall and in 10-20 years its gonna need a re-screw and fill, Iv never seen a ceiling allmost hit the floor till i came to Australia,


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

The main problem with those sagging ceilings was that fixers removed the center screw before coating. That was something a lot of guys used to do to prevent screw / nail pops in timber. Another broblem was some of the early glues used to become brittle as they aged. The modern glues dont appear to have this problem.
I personally have been using metal battens, glue, and center screw for over 20 years. I have not had a call back due to my ceilings dropping in that time. Any way it is done to the manufacturers specs so if there is a problem it is there problem. They will just have to pay me to go back and fix it.


----------



## scottktmrider (Jun 24, 2012)

gazman said:


> The main problem with those sagging ceilings was that fixers removed the center screw before coating. That was something a lot of guys used to do to prevent screw / nail pops in timber. Another broblem was some of the early glues used to become brittle as they aged. The modern glues dont appear to have this problem.
> I personally have been using metal battens, glue, and center screw for over 20 years. I have not had a call back due to my ceilings dropping in that time. Any way it is done to the manufacturers specs so if there is a problem it is there problem. They will just have to pay me to go back and fix it.


Just wondering why the board is hung going with the ceiling joists.I didnt see any screws in the field in the board on the walls.Or did you just not coat em yet?


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

Wish I could do that here...


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

scottktmrider said:


> Just wondering why the board is hung going with the ceiling joists.I didnt see any screws in the field in the board on the walls.Or did you just not coat em yet?


 No screws in the field...No screw pops Bro! The glue will hold up!


----------



## P.A. ROCKER (Jul 15, 2011)

2buckcanuck said:


> Were willing to try one, just can't find anywhere to rent one FIRST. Even Home Depot said they stopped renting them, they always came back broke.
> 
> Screws are the main thing I would want it for. Plus things depend on how we do screws. I like last coat with nail spotter. But a lot of DWC flip out about the nail spotter. Which would take it's own thread to explain why:furious:


I bought a cheapie Chinko on ebay for $100 ( usually they sell for around $200), rent around here was $40 and it's sanded many thousands of sheets, so I made out. 
The way you guys burn with the sanding pole I don't think you'll have a problem hitting screws with a PS. 
I'm so confident about how good they sand I'd tell you to just get one, you'll use it for sure.:yes:


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

moore said:


> No screws in the field...No screw pops Bro! The glue will hold up!



Thanks Moore you saved me the typing.


----------

