# "Ving" Out Your Butt Joints



## Cratter (Sep 6, 2010)

Do you cut your butt joints to make them a "V"? If so why?

I use to work for a company in Minneapolis, MN that use to go around and V all the butt joints and prefill with hot mud. Neverunderstood why. Ever single one. 

I worked for another company the company never "Ved" them out. The only reason I would think to do this would be for loose paper, etc.

Sorry if this has been brought up. I know I am new.


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Cratter said:


> Do you cut your butt joints to make them a "V"? If so why?
> 
> I use to work for a company in Minneapolis, MN that use to go around and V all the butt joints and prefill with hot mud. Neverunderstood why. Ever single one.
> 
> ...


Yup, I've always V cut them, in theory it helps glue the sheets together and gives a stronger join, if they arent V'ed then it's a bit like putting duct tape over the join and any movement is just going to crease the tape.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Yes i do as well, And to remove the daggy edges so a get a flat tape and not all bumpy.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

Makes Stronger joints....same principle as welding metal v out the ones to be joined and fill with material.


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## DSJOHN (Apr 5, 2010)

Never in 31 years--waste of time in my opinion


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

`I don't really see V ing it making it that much stronger. To me the rockers over V them forcing you to prefill them. I don't care weather you use hotmud or regular mud or even cement for all I care, it will crack. If I'm wrong then we can stop using tape then.
Your suppose to V to get rid of the loose paper. that's why you put the cut end of drywall to the corner (no paper burrs) and the factory end to the butt.It is only the factory ends that need the paper cut off. If you cut your rock with a sharp knife there should be no loose paper. So if you put 2 cut butts together, you would not half to V them. Put 2 factory butts together, you half to V it. Put one factory end and one hand cut end, you half to V one side (the factory one) ,But to explain this to a rocker who is suppose to be strong like bull, but dumb like cow , would make his head explode. So you tell him to V everything, makes life more easy.

You can also rasp the loose paper off , but it is too time consuming

bottom line it.s to get rid of the loose paper on the FACTORY end of the butt, paper don't stick to paper period.

It's not for strength


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

"v" ing butt joints out and prefilling prevents the tape from getting apukker line down the middle of the tape. If you taped over a gap butt joint without prefilling it your more likely to have this happen.its a good practice but not necessary to do every one unless the end has been rasp allot . Prefilling is more inportant in my opinion.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> `I don't really see V ing it making it that much stronger. To me the rockers over V them forcing you to prefill them. I don't care weather you use hotmud or regular mud or even cement for all I care, it will crack. If I'm wrong then we can stop using tape then.
> Your suppose to V to get rid of the loose paper. that's why you put the cut end of drywall to the corner (no paper burrs) and the factory end to the butt.It is only the factory ends that need the paper cut off. If you cut your rock with a sharp knife there should be no loose paper. So if you put 2 cut butts together, you would not half to V them. Put 2 factory butts together, you half to V it. Put one factory end and one hand cut end, you half to V one side (the factory one) ,But to explain this to a rocker who is suppose to be strong like bull, but dumb like cow , would make his head explode. So you tell him to V everything, makes life more easy.
> 
> You can also rasp the loose paper off , but it is too time consuming
> ...


:laughing:


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Loose paper on the factory end , must of forgot to rip the paper tab off.


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

Its faster to cut paper than to rasp it.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

raven said:


> "v" ing butt joints out and prefilling prevents the tape from getting apukker line down the middle of the tape. If you taped over a gap butt joint without prefilling it your more likely to have this happen.its a good practice but not necessary to do every one unless the end has been rasp allot . Prefilling is more inportant in my opinion.


 I believe in prefilling.but I guess my last post looks like I don't when, you read it :yes::yes:


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## Cratter (Sep 6, 2010)

raven said:


> "v" ing butt joints out and prefilling prevents the tape from getting apukker line down the middle of the tape. If you taped over a gap butt joint without prefilling it your more likely to have this happen.





Kiwiman said:


> Yup, I've always V cut them, in theory it helps glue the sheets together and gives a stronger join, if they arent V'ed then it's a bit like putting duct tape over the join and any movement is just going to crease the tape.


I believe you two are talking about the same thing? 

I have noticed the "crease in the tape" on the butt joints usually when we paint/prime. Needless to say we were doing something wrong. We didn't V the butt out but did/do prefill ever seam (I find this pointless but thats beside the point). I find that it happened we we ran the butts 3 wide with the box on the first coat (middle and two sides). Then came back on the final coat and ran the two sides. 

Reversing the order (two side on the first coat, three on the second) seemed to put more mud on the center of the tape which helped stop the tape from pushing out, same reason you don't ever see this problem on flats.


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## Mudslinger (Mar 16, 2008)

....


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## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

raven said:


> "v" ing butt joints out and prefilling prevents the tape from getting apukker line down the middle of the tape. If you taped over a gap butt joint without prefilling it your more likely to have this happen.its a good practice but not necessary to do every one unless the end has been rasp allot . Prefilling is more inportant in my opinion.


Yeah, thats what I was trying to describe "apukker" :yes:.


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## Cratter (Sep 6, 2010)

Mudslinger said:


> Did you work for Berg drywall, or Bob Peterson? I only V butt joints if the paper is peeling. If someone wants to pay me for it I would be happy to do it, but thats not going to happen except for real high end jobs.


No. Technically it was Hudson, Wi. All-Starr Drywall. Small operation. Not even sure if he is around anymore. Had to move back to Grand Forks, ND cause the guy couldn't keep us busy. :whistling2:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

raven said:


> Loose paper on the factory end , must of forgot to rip the paper tab off.


depends on brand of rock. some have a raveled edge. 
there are some really bad wallboards out there.


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

very true moore i thinkgold bond is one of them recessed edges have a lot of damage, like cringkled edges. easily to damage and paper tears easily. which brand board do you prefer.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

moore said:


> depends on brand of rock. some have a raveled edge.
> there are some really bad wallboards out there.


this is so true, we have one brand of rock, forget which one but... the paper looks like this

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
almost the exact same size as shown here !!!!!!!
must be cut off:yes:


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## raven (Feb 17, 2011)

exactly 2buck. if you don,t cut it out it,s likely to blister, soon as you put mud [moisture] over it.I believe that if a butt joint has a gap in it and you don't prefill it its more than likely to get this blister line up the middle, when moisture is applyed. it pukkered out. taped a 7000 sg tf auto store out yesterday, the drywaller that got the job said not to prefill just start taping,big hurry hurry. I don't like to sacrafice quality because somebody got a firecracker in their ass. once it's done your signature is on it. to me it's worth an extra hour or day.


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## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

no joke..my dad would take me on his job sites when I was 9.10years old and I would allways here him say to his guys....If you see or find any loose paper.blisters.ect cut it the fu.k out because it will cause a problem...and that has allways stuck with me...:thumbup:


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

raven said:


> very true moore i thinkgold bond is one of them recessed edges have a lot of damage, like cringkled edges. easily to damage and paper tears easily. which brand board do you prefer.


the best board here seems to be usg or n/g grid rock .
n/g grid is the the board that has the ^^^^^^^^ on the butts .
like 2buck was saying.. still a smooth board. as is USG.
PRO ROCK -- rough 
Tuff rock -- rough
EAGLE ROCK -- dumpster 
TEMPER INLAND ROCK -- dumpster
this is all i have to choose from here . i cannot ripple my butts and seams
to match the board itself. if the numnutts that make this crap are willing 
to pay me to mud the entire sheet , fine .25 per ft . 
most g/c h/o look at PRICES of material before quality . i always warn them!

some listen/ some don't give a sh!t. i always phase 5 ceilings, but a phase 5 on walls are gonna COST ya........:yes:


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## Bevelation (Dec 20, 2008)

I V out joints if I have to, and only in spots, like where sometimes the fastener pulled the paper from the gyproc.


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Bevelation said:


> I V out joints if I have to, and only in spots, like where sometimes the fastener pulled the paper from the gyproc.


I'm with you on this one, v-ing is not always necessary, and when done should be kept to a minimum. Just enough to get rid of loose paper.


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