# What Texture Gun do you use? For the guys that only have huge spray rigs.



## The_Texture_Guy

I use a binks 7d with a 57 or 58 fluid nozzle depending on my mood. I usually get my orange peel tips from spray connection or order from sarasota. I have finally recently relized that sometimes when my orange peel is comming out to the side, it isnt always a tip gone bad but it can be a bad fluid nozzle. I have had only 2 binks guns. I love them and they are easy to maintain. One is painted in a General Lee scheme with an 01 decal and confederate flag on the handle.

I have the huge pole gun for popcorn. I have never used that for knockdown but have seen that it can be done.


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## kyle112

I use a Versatex with a 12' tip for KD and a binks head with a medium tip for Op. A 1/2' ball valve makes quick work of switching between the two. The Versatex is much cleaner with less fallout and you don't have to worry about damaging a unprotected fluid nozzle on a binks. I have worked with the binks for both ceilings and walls before, I'm just more comfortable with my old faithful Versatex. I think its all in what your comfortable with in the end.


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## Mudslinger

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## Mudslinger

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## drywallnflorida

a binks 7d with a 57 fluid nozzle, and also get them from sarasota too:thumbup:


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## Captain Drywall

*pole gun*

For knockdown, the pole gun like mudslinger is the only way to go. No trigger, less fatigue.


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## drywallsprayer

*drywallsprayer*

Long time lurker chiming in. We use 6 inch pole guns for everything. Have Spray King and Spray Force mixer nozzles. Usually we stick with the Spray King nozzles because the 5 air holes in the tip seem to produce a wider shot when spraying at slower speeds. The Spray Force nozzles only have 4 air holes and the pattern kind of loses something when you slow down the pump in tight areas. At a regular or fast pump speed, both brands work great. Only complaint we have ever had is that the air holes in the mixer nozzles become clogged with mud, and it affects your pattern. You have to stop periodically and clean out the air holes to get your pattern back to normal. Overall it's not too big of a problem and the texture produced by these nozzles is well worth it in the end. Curious to find out if any of you guys have experienced this tip clogging phenomenon when using Spray Force, Spray King, or AST mixer nozzles?


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## Mudslinger

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## drywallsprayer

*drywallsprayer*



Mudslinger said:


> When I first started using my Spray King I ran into clogging problems when spraying knockdown, but worked great with other textures. I talked to Als Taping Tools, Spray King, Spray Force, and AST(went a little over board trying to figure it out:whistling2. They all said I was over powering the tip. So I needed to either turn up my air, turn down my pump, or go to a bigger tip. The more air you use the less clogging your going to have. If your using bag mud, and your getting lumps in your mix that can also cause clogging. As the lump is coming through the tip it creates enough back pressure to back feed your air holes. Just play around with them, and once you figure it out they spray awesome texture without clogging.


Appreciate the good info mudslinger. We've been using a Spray King 300 with these tips since about 2002 and have had a new Spray Force Hurricane 350 Diesel for almost a year now. Before those machines we had an older model Spray King with the older style heads. The internal mix heads were a huge upgrade from those older style heads and tips. We always spray only bag mud and usually leave it considerably thicker when spraying knockdown. That's when the tip clog is the most noticeable--not as bad when spraying orange peel. We've managed to deal with it over the years because they are definitely awesome to spray with! Seems like it really only bothers us now when the pump is stopped and started again when spraying in a tight area. We updated our Spray King about five years ago with a potentiometer knob on the gun to speed up and slow down the pump while you spray to avoid completely stopping the pump. Also keeps you from having to run all the way outside to the machine to adjust the pump. As long as mud flows through the gun it doesn't tend to clog so slowing it down to lets you not have to stop the pump. Guy Presson was still with Spray King and he designed it. It makes a world of difference in spraying to have the control of your pump at your hand. Our new Spray Force was built with a similar control but it runs off a toggle switch and is a better overall design. Both great machines and awesome tools to spray with! But needless to say pole guns with internal mix heads and tips work the best for us.


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## Mudslinger

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## drywallsprayer

*drywallsprayer*



Mudslinger said:


> It could be something as simple as the air drying out the material around the air holes because the material isn't flowing. I had one gun that I had a bypass around the air regulator so I could blow out the tip quick before spraying. I would love to hear more about your potentiometer set up. Nothing worse than starting on a 2nd story and running to the sprayer to adjust the pump.


That bypass sounds pretty cool. We've toyed with the idea of having something like that machined. Something that would quickly clear the holes without having to unscrew the cap and pull off the tip. For now we just use the pump controls on the guns and we also carry around 3 or 4 tips of the same size. When one gets clogged pull it out and stick a clean one in. Once we finish spraying a pull we drop them in a water bucket and poke them clean with a drywall nail and they are ready for the next pull. 

I completely agree about the pump adjustment. It always happens at the worst times. It's unreal how effective and comfortable having that at the gun is. Once you use it, it becomes almost impossible to spray without it. Not only does it save you the run around but you can actually adjust as you spray so you see exactly how much you adjusted. You're not just turning the knob blindly. I've seen your Spray King mounted in the truck, very nice setup! 

The control we have mounted on the Spray King is pretty simple actually. They just sent us a new electric valve and we pulled off the adjustment knob on the sprayer and pulled off the old valve from behind it. Stuck the new valve in it's place and it has a spot where you tie in the three wire cable which runs all the way down the hose to the gun. Spliced into the power to supply the valve and rigged up a mount for the knob on the gun. That was pretty much it--very easy install. I don't know all the specs as far as brand goes or where they got it. I remember they shipped it all in a box without specs. 

The one on the Spray Force is the same idea but the wiring done at the rig is a lot more complex due to it being an electric engage. The Spray King is a air engage. The valve goes from completely closed to completely open in 12 seconds I think. They told me I could go up to 7 seconds but 12 is fine. Not exactly sure what the Spray King is but it's pretty close to that. Also the Spray Force has the ability to control the pump at the machine as well as at the gun. If one fails the other one is available. In replacing the valve on the Spray King we lost the ability to adjust it from the machine--only at the gun. I'm sure it could be easily fixed to do both but it worked so we never messed with it. The Spray Force also has the toggle switch mounted on a small box they manufactured for me with all the wiring protected inside which makes it basically bullet proof. The potentiometer on the Spray King has the three wiring connections exposed, so sometimes the connections go bad from abuse or the mud corroding it. So we periodically replace those with new crimps and away we go. Overall very nice setup on both machines. My dad prefers the Spray King and I prefer the Spray Force but we switch back and forth. The Spray Force is new so we tend to run it more. There's nothing like shooting a 14' wide open living area and switching the pump on a dime to spray the 2x2--8' tall coat closet! Makes life really easy! Might be worth a call to Anthony at Spray King to see if he knows anything about it--heck they might even have one like mine sitting on the shelf. I know he had some extra potentiometers on the shelf two years ago or so. If not Grady at Spray Force can probably fix you something up!


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## Mudslinger

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## outalne94z71

our old truck had the 7d, the current one has a psi hackle step saver pole gun that i use a binks 68ss fluid nozzle that is drilled out and ground flat and i use a binks 101 carbide on the aircap for all textures and paint except knockdown, i just take the air cap off for that.

from what i gather from what most of you guys have you need to go back to your truck to adjust pump speed???? the hackel setup has a 3rd hose that is a 1/4" hose with regulator and slide valve you use to adjust pump speed and turn pump on, it has a tee from the main air through the regulator and slide valve back to a regulator on the grover pump


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## The_Texture_Guy

Ive had the problem with the tips on the 7d. when the air holes become clogged it can be a problem, but i try to wash the gun off every time i use it to avoid that. same thing happens when the nozzle gets bent a little. it makes the guy spray funny. If the orange peel tips are lopsided i can get a v patter or it only comes out one side. How long do you guys have until you need to change tips. i once had a tip last me perfectly for a few months. then needed a new one.


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## maDDog

I'm so old I'm still using the binks 18d. I have OCD so I bought 8 -18D's back in the day from Jevco in Sarasota before they sold rebought and became Desco. Still have a couple new 18D's much nicer gun IMHO.


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## maDDog

I'm so loving skiptrowl


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## kyle112

Damn maddog, you have been around for awhile! Most people don't even know the difference between a Jevco and a Desco. I too still use the binks 18D for op. Still works after all these years, why change now.


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