# Plaster repairs



## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

I have a project comeing up. Its a frist floor redo. I was planing on remove all the plaster and lath thats on the walls now. And put new sheetrock. But talking to a few friends that have redone a few older homes.Just said. Leave the plaster and lath and just remove the broken plaster and just structo-lite the walls. They say it works great..
Any else done this?
Or any other ideas?
Have have used it on small repairs but nothe big like this..


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Do you plan of patching the missing chunks and hanging over it or re surfacing the walls with plaster ?


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Ceiling is getting new rock.. Just the walls I want to try to plaster. Instead of riping out all the walls down to the framing.. Big mess and LOADS of dust..


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

structolite with plaster 3/1. leave it a bit lower to leave room for finish. coat with plaster weld first. you could actually do the finish coat with hot mudd and just skim to finish. or mix lime and plaster 3/1, trowel then brush with wet brush and burnish with trowel edge.


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Plaster weld? I know USG make a plaster sealer..Is that the same? Iam planing to spray a skim coat over the wall to give it a better look..


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

1). Remove loose plaster. ( Plaster that is no longer keyed behind wood lath )

2). Patch with board. ( This may require odd geometrical shapes but is easier filling with structo lite)

3). Apply bonding agent: Plaster weld or USG plaster bonder to entire surface.


4). Apply thin coat of Diamond Base coat.

5). Finish with pre guaged lime finish. Like Diamond finish or kal coat.

6). Or you can skim three coats of durabond over it. ( That sucks)

Good luck


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## d-rock (Oct 21, 2009)

Drywall Tycoon said:


> 1). Remove loose plaster. ( Plaster that is no longer keyed behind wood lath )
> 
> 2). Patch with board. ( This may require odd geometrical shapes but is easier filling with structo lite)
> 
> ...


This way is certainly a GREAT job.. however, you will lose your shirt like this.


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## fenez (Nov 30, 2009)

If you are going to remove only what appears to be loose...then take the demo portion of the job on a t&m basis, removing loose plaster almost always winds up being more work than expected.


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Yep, sometimes it just keeps crumbling off and never stops.

However you can bed in a layer of fiber glass mesh across it.
Together with the patches it seems to strengthen the old plaster.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT (Dec 19, 2008)

Not to change the subject Al, but I kinda thought this was along the same lines. Has anyone here tried the injection glue made for plaster repairs and if so how did it work out for you? I have heard about it but not seen it in action. Thanks


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Sounds great. Do you have a link.


FOR THOSE ABOUT said:


> Not to change the subject Al, but I kinda thought this was along the same lines. Has anyone here tried the injection glue made for plaster repairs and if so how did it work out for you? I have heard about it but not seen it in action. Thanks


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## Cousin-itt (Jan 29, 2010)

Yeah. I did a big job on a old house that was plaster / lath with smooth wall. It was vacant for a bit (no heat and leaky roof). A small crew and owner of the house wasn't in a major hurry, tight budget and needed some help. Just wanted a good cheap repair and could only haul out debris a small load at a time. Well, the walls and ceilings had hairline cracks and areas that were hanging and had fallen. We chipped away the loose plaster down to the lath. Watch out - a one foot area can lead to a 3 ft. area in a hurry. But it can beat tearing it all out. Use sheetrock (and longer drywall screws to hit the studs) to fill in the areas, cutting it as close to the old plaster as you can. Some used a angle cutter or chisels to "square off" the area to make it easier to fill in with the sheetrock. This will create a little dust but it can save some time cutting the sheetrock to fit. Cut sheetrock to fit - get creative. Go with what ever works the fastest / best for you. Keep the rasp handy. Also have different thickness sheetrock to fill because the original thickness of the plaster can vary. We then filled in the crack with mud and mesh taped it, "V" out the hairline cracks and mesh tape those. Finishing up with a nice skim coat to blend it all in to match. Looks great and it's still holding fine today and you can't tell the difference. You could use a final texture coat to finish and blend, but the owner wanted it smooth. I can definitely see where you can loose you ^$$ on this. But this job seemed to go smoothly and looked great in the end and it also helped the owner out. I know there are many different ways to do a job like this. It's just the way this job seemed to flow and work well for all in this instance. Still made money in the end. Giddy-up.


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

Have any of you guys been following this story and how it will effect your business working in older houses?

*Renovators Lacking Lead-Safety Certification Threaten Massive Energy Retrofit Program*

*HomeStar program threatened by EPA's new Lead Safe Work Practices program, the National Association of Home Builders warn.*

*Matt Phair, HousingZone Contributing Editor
March 12, 2010
HousingZone*

A highly anticipated program that would make homes more energy efficient and provide a significant boost to the nation’s struggling economy could get derailed before it even starts because of a new regulation affecting contractors working on older homes, according to the National Association of Home Builders.

The Senate is considering legislation that includes the proposed Home Star program, designed to provide home owner incentives for insulation and other weatherization projects. NAHB economists estimate that every $1 billion in remodeling and home improvement activity generates 11,000 jobs, $527 million in wages and salaries, and $300 million in business income.
However, rules effective April 22 governing contractors in homes where lead paint may be present will prevent meaningful retrofit work from being done because there won’t be enough certified renovation contractors trained in the federal Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) new Lead Safe Work Practices.

Roughly 79 million homes constructed before 1978 are subject to the Lead Renovation, Repair and Repainting Rule.
EPA has estimated that more than 236,000 remodelers, window installers, painters, heating and air-conditioning specialists and other trade contractors must be trained to ensure compliance with the rule.
Only about 14,000 people have been certified to date.
Just 135 firms throughout the country are approved to offer the training courses.
In some states there are still no approved trainers.
According to NAHB, many of its members will have to avoid working in older homes to avoid breaking the law, which is in direct conflict to an today's business environment where improving energy efficiency and creating jobs are national priorities


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

and there is this link that will tell you more

http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/rrpfactsheet2008.htm


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## Quality1st (Aug 1, 2008)

*Hey Frankawitz*

Hope you don,t mind me asking, but what do you suggest. I followed on contractor talk some of it, but looking for some simple sage advice. Can we get certifed on-line. Can some of us get certified and teach the others. Lay it out for us Brother. Thanks Bill


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

For Those About:

I have the system in question, but haven't used it yet, will maybe get a chance to use it tomorrow. Will post on how it goes!


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

From what I have read for my state there are only 4 training centers in my area, I have to call them on Monday to find out more, Yesterday I watched on the show This Old House and they had a piece on Lead base paints, They had three windows and they checked for Lead well long story short the job cost $8,000 for replacing case moldings on windows and they scraped the outer corner of some baseboards I'm having a hard time selling jobs for a few thousand and TOH is saying $8,000 for 9 pieces of case moldings and some plastic, a devise to measure lead paint. Then they replace case moldings that has paint sealing the lead base:whistling2: But I have to remove this wood cause some kid might bite the wood:blink: Holy crap people let their kids chew the wood work:laughing:
This is as bad as the time this kid in Detroit drank some paint and it put a local paint manufacturer out of business. 
But I will make some calls, I went on the state web site and pulled what info they had for Michigan
as for teaching others you would have to be certified by your state to teach others. they will have to take classes and get certified, I see this as just another way for the Government to get more of Our Money Here in Michigan they are talking a Service Tax 5.5%


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Frank, 

This is a great subject. It needs its own thread.


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

Drywall Tycoon said:


> 1). Remove loose plaster. ( Plaster that is no longer keyed behind wood lath )
> 
> 2). Patch with board. ( This may require odd geometrical shapes but is easier filling with structo lite)
> 
> ...



Replace 1). Pay a testing service $ 5,000.00 to assess for lead and asbestos. If they find it. Then pay them thousands to set up air monitoring . Budget a few thousand for training just to work near the stuff.

Pay for an army of government workers to implement this program.

Start a new thread.


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## FOR THOSE ABOUT (Dec 19, 2008)

Drywall Tycoon said:


> Sounds great. Do you have a link.


www.plastermagic.com

Looking forward to fr8train's comments on this method


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

I have been doing plaster repairs for 30 years now and this is crap, in all the years I have fixed plaster I have never seen a repair like that. if plaster is pulling off the wood lath it needs to be removed and the wood lath renailed with underlayment nails ring shank, When wood lath pulls from 2x4 framing it has to be renailed only way to stop it from bulging, besides as long as it takes you could have pull all the plaster off the wood lath renail the lath and base coat it second coat then skim coat done deal. This stuff is a waste of time, now if the plaster was about 1/2" off the wood lath this might work, but if you have plaster bulging off the lath about 3" it aint gonna work to level the wall or ceiling out. I would say a waste of time and money.:whistling2:


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

I agree with Frank. It is a small scale product. A lot of spray bottles.
But I'll bet they sell a bunch of that stuff to DYS'rs.

I could envision a product on a larger scale that could be pumped into the cavities to firm up the brittle keys. But given the potential cost r & r may be more cost effective.

However if you have to deal with abatement vs. encapsulation on harmful existing material it may be worth considering.


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

Yeah, But if your certified in Lead Base Paints and Asbestos Abatement you can just charge more for your work and cause your certified people have to pay you your fees, otherwise their home is unliveble wouldn't you say? So with these New Laws things are going to change it's just a matter if you want to be involved in construction anymore. with the Government doing nothing to create JOBS what are you going to do to make a living, Go into a new career which may be more schooling or all new training. either way we will have to pay more to be able to work. I don't see the light at the end of the tunnel


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## Drywall Tycoon (Mar 1, 2009)

It appears the government intends on expanding jobs into regulating and controlling the plaster repair business. Not the kind of jobs that my ancestors left the old country for.
They came here to get away from the government control.


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## Frankawitz (Aug 13, 2008)

Tycoon,
The thing that's funny is the Government regulating all industries yet the bastards can't regulate their own BS, If this Healthcare passes We the People have just walk threw the door of Socialism, and when Midterm Elections come Every one of US who are Americans should VOTE OUT every one who VOTED for obamacare cause if they get away with this CRISIS as obama calls it, Americans Rights will be taken away:yes:


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## Al Taper (Dec 16, 2007)

Here what the story is. This project is my house. It was built in 1911 and there is paneling up with plaster behind it. Some is cracked and broken in spots. I was going to gut all the walls down to the framing and redo. But talking to a few friends they say just get all loose plaster off and patch it. Going to rewire and blow in the insulation. Easyer and less dust. 
Last year I riped out my wood burning stove hearth. Tryed to keep the dust down. But my youngest got sick from the dust. So I dont want to rip out all the plaster.. and make all the dust..
So just trying to make it easy.
Rewire,plaster, blow insulation, repair holes, and spray coat walls with spackle and primer mix..


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