# Wood strapping or furring versus resilient channel



## Qu3st3x

We've been using 1x3 wood strapping at 16" centers screwed perpendicular over 24" spaced rafters. Problem is that 1x3's tend to cup or twist, which causes popped screws over the years.

I know some installers use metal resilient channel, which was typically used to prevent sound transmission between drywalled walls. We're not interested in sound transmission here, we're just interested in finding the best way to strap rafters.

I'd love to hear from pros who went from wood strapping and now swear by metal channel. Or, those who tried metal but went back to wood.


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## 2buckcanuck

guessing your a builder, you strapping b/c of the hip rafters, I don't see them do that much any more, most go with the longest perpendicular run, then run the drywall with the the last remaining area.

Only thing I can say is the res bar is faster to install, and it will hang more level than the wood. if your trusses are really bad, the res helps a bit but not all the time.

Which part of Ontario you from


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## Qu3st3x

If you don't strap at all...do you use 5/8th instead of 1/2" drywall when installing on 24"OC? I'd be concerned about 1/2" sagging.


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## drywallnflorida

What about using metal hat channel? 

When we use 1/2" board on 24" centers it has to be ceiling board!


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## Qu3st3x

What do you mean by "ceiling board"? The drywall we use on the walls is the same as the stuff used on the ceiling.

Never used metal hat. Is this product commonly used where you are? Does it prevent screws from popping out later?


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## drywallnflorida

Qu3st3x said:


> What do you mean by "ceiling board"? The drywall we use on the walls is the same as the stuff used on the ceiling.
> 
> Never used metal hat. Is this product commonly used where you are? Does it prevent screws from popping out later?


Ceiling board is high stregth board designed for use on ceilings with a 24" center. 

The hat channel is similar to the rc channel 
here is a link to it- http://www.phillipsmfg.com/products/mcif/channels.htm#7_8


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## 2buckcanuck

Just say CD board to your supply house (short for ceiling board) then you can go @ 24" o/c. I don't know if you can still do it, but you use to be able to get common studs a inch longer or something like that, kept the ceiling height at 8 ft and the rocker did not half to trim a inch or so off the bottom of the sheets. they started to charge more for that etc....... but like I sad, I don't see many builders strapping any more ( which part of Ontario you from?)

We call hat track U-bar or furring channel, it would bring your ceilings down too much, 1 1/2 for the bar and 1/2" for the rock equals 2".

Also, it should be the framer or you that installs the wood, While the rockers will install the resilient channel by so much a running foot , if your dealing with a real drywall company, that is the most likely response you would get.

So do you need a Quote for one of your houses,,,,,,hint hint:whistling2:


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## drywallnflorida

hat channel also comes in 7/8" which would only be 1/8" more than wood furring.


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## joepro0000

Out here we furr out the ceilings perpendicular with 7/8" hat channel ither 20 or 25 gauge, depending what the arch. spec'd out on the plans. We go with it 24" o.c. and have no problems at all. I hang 5/8" drywall, for 1.00 more a sheet, its worth it. What are you going to save 100.00 per 100 sheets? 5/8" is more durable, and helps get rid of humps if your have un-even trusses.


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## 2buckcanuck

drywallnflorida said:


> hat channel also comes in 7/8" which would only be 1/8" more than wood furring.


I didn't know that Thanks for that tip, I'd rather work with that instead then, it's stronger. and it would be better for the butt joints too. from a tapers perspective:thumbsup:

You just keep learning from this site:yes:


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## Qu3st3x

Based on previous posts, the "ceiling board" is stiffened to work on 24"OC.

JoePro recommends using 5/8ths instead of the ceiling board.

So here are some comparisons I've got so far:

I'd assume the ceiling board is lighter to handle than 5/8ths.

Costs:
4x12, 1/2" regular: $17.24 (so for 1000sq ft = $362)
4x12, 1/2" ceiling board: $21.00 (for 1000sq = $441)
4x12, 5/8" regular: $25.44 (for 1000sq = $534)

Strapping with 1x3 for a 1000sqft = $152
Strapping with resilient channel = $276

Therefore, here are some totals:

1/2 ceiling board (alone) $441
5/8 regular (alone) $534
1/2 regular with 1x3's = $514
1/2 regular with resilient = $638

So it's cheapest to go with 1/2" ceiling board directly on 24"OC rafters (engineered trusses).

Question still remains: if money isn't the most important issue, and avoiding screw pops and cracks is....then....I still don't know!


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## chris

*5/8*



Qu3st3x said:


> Based on previous posts, the "ceiling board" is stiffened to work on 24"OC.
> 
> JoePro recommends using 5/8ths instead of the ceiling board.
> 
> So here are some comparisons I've got so far:
> 
> I'd assume the ceiling board is lighter to handle than 5/8ths.
> 
> Costs:
> 4x12, 1/2" regular: $17.24 (so for 1000sq ft = $362)
> 4x12, 1/2" ceiling board: $21.00 (for 1000sq = $441)
> 4x12, 5/8" regular: $25.44 (for 1000sq = $534)
> 
> Strapping with 1x3 for a 1000sqft = $152
> Strapping with resilient channel = $276
> 
> Therefore, here are some totals:
> 
> 1/2 ceiling board (alone) $441
> 5/8 regular (alone) $534
> 1/2 regular with 1x3's = $514
> 1/2 regular with resilient = $638
> 
> So it's cheapest to go with 1/2" ceiling board directly on 24"OC rafters (engineered trusses).
> 
> Question still remains: if money isn't the most important issue, and avoiding screw pops and cracks is....then....I still don't know!


 ceiling board costs same as 5/8 where Im at . would definitly use 5/8 joe pro is right 1/2 is fragile and weak . If you are worried about cracks or screw pops you may try gluing board to truss as well as screws . Also those prices on your rock look a tad highis that normal for your area


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## mudslingr

If money isn't an issue I would go with the resilient channel. Less pops if any.


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## 2buckcanuck

chris said:


> ceiling board costs same as 5/8 where Im at . would definitly use 5/8 joe pro is right 1/2 is fragile and weak . If you are worried about cracks or screw pops you may try gluing board to truss as well as screws . Also those prices on your rock look a tad highis that normal for your area


Just to let you know, can't glue to trusses, we half to install poly on them.
and of coarse our prices or high, here in commie Canada, need those taxes to pay for Health care.


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## 2buckcanuck

Your going about the task of solving your problem all wrong, which area of Ontario are you dealing from, sw,C ,E, or N , your dealing with truss lift, strapping with wood will not stop it. depending which area you live in, there are 2 different solutions. the more north(colder) you go, the more drastic action you half to take.


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## Qu3st3x

I'm in the Kingston area. So...just a bit colder than Toronto area.

In my conversation with a resilient channel manufacturer (as per the post by an earlier thread) they designed resilient specifically to prevent cracks in drywall. Its really looking like resilient is the best bet. They even make the hat channel, but he says the resilient is still better to prevent cracks and popped screws; it was designed for that.

So...I'm going to try the resilient. I|m guessing the best bet is resilient with the ceiling board mentioned earlier. Highest cost, but best quality.

Thanks guys for the feedback.


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## SlimPickins

CD board has its advantages, but it also has disadvantages. The benefits (as I see it) are such:


Lighter, so easier
can use scraps on walls, tying in with your regular wallboard, so less waste (which means no leftover 5/8 to go back to the yard, or less big pieces of 5/8 going to the dump or needing to be transported to the next gig)
Disadvantages:



It will still sag somewhat over the years
You need to be conscious of exactly how much insulation will go in the lid, CD is rated to carry a limited amount of weight.
CD doesn't add the same shear qualities as 5/8
5/8 is just plain stronger.

We don't drop the lids here, so I can't answer your metal/wood question, sorry.


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## chris

*be careful*



Qu3st3x said:


> I'm in the Kingston area. So...just a bit colder than Toronto area.
> 
> In my conversation with a resilient channel manufacturer (as per the post by an earlier thread) they designed resilient specifically to prevent cracks in drywall. Its really looking like resilient is the best bet. They even make the hat channel, but he says the resilient is still better to prevent cracks and popped screws; it was designed for that.
> 
> So...I'm going to try the resilient. I|m guessing the best bet is resilient with the ceiling board mentioned earlier. Highest cost, but best quality.
> 
> Thanks guys for the feedback.


make sure guys installing RC know what there doing.. Have taped alot of board hung on RC and it can be ugly hangers shoulld be experienced also


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## Brian S

Over here we used to use 1/2" 0n ceilings on 24" o/c but the chippies used to set the ceiling out buy putting noggings in across the ceiling every 48".
So you would screw to the joists and on the edge screw to the noggins.

Half inch board is light, seeing as we generally use 8x4, and this system worked well, no problems that I ever heard about.

Then Res Bar made a breif appearance, then 5/8 on 24o/c and 5/8 on Res Bar, and now, or the last time I was on site they have gone over to TJI joists at 16"o/c and 5/8 board


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## 2buckcanuck

Brian S said:


> Over here we used to use 1/2" 0n ceilings on 24" o/c but the chippies used to set the ceiling out buy putting noggings in across the ceiling every 48".
> So you would screw to the joists and on the edge screw to the noggins.
> 
> Half inch board is light, seeing as we generally use 8x4, and this system worked well, no problems that I ever heard about.
> 
> Then Res Bar made a breif appearance, then 5/8 on 24o/c and 5/8 on Res Bar, and now, or the last time I was on site they have gone over to TJI joists at 16"o/c and 5/8 board


Sometimes I go to T&J to read what you guys are talking about, Just because I have no idea what you guys are talking about. What is a chippie or a noggin.

Once I was reading a thread where you guys/lads were talking about "Not being too keen on these new Timber houses".....I thought you guys were talking about logged framed houses, till one of you guys posted a video of one burning down. It was what we North Americans would call your typical wood framed home, but it was new to you guys.:blink:

I'm not picking on you brian s, But I think the Kiwi's are even better equipped and have better material/supplies than you guys. And the Kiwi's admit their 20 years behind us.

If you get confused with our slang terms, just ask, we will explain them:thumbsup:


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## Kiwiman

2buckcanuck said:


> What is a chippie or a noggin.
> 
> 
> I'm not picking on you brian s, But I think the Kiwi's are even better equipped and have better material/supplies than you guys. And the Kiwi's admit their 20 years behind us.


Then why don't I feel 20 years younger? 
By the way in NZ, chippie = builder and noggin = dwang, or for the less informed chippie = a chip and noggin = head .


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## Brian S

2 Buck
A Chippie is a Carpenter, and a noggin is a peice of timber, can be any size but usually 2x2 or 2x4 that fits between, for example 2 joists to give support to the edge of the board.

Yes we are still a long way behind you guys regarding Drywall.

Timber frame isn't new to us, I was tacking timber frame houses back in the early 80s when I first started in Drywall. (but not often) 

I have renovated buildings that were made of very rough timber and finished with Lath and Plaster (the old stuff with Horsehair in it.
We were building timber frame house's over here around the time the Pilgrim Fathers went to America.


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## Jason

Not a HO at all.


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