# Adjusting angle heads



## Terrence35 (Aug 25, 2012)

Can someone help me with adjusting my angle heads. I have a 3 inch Drywall master, 3 inch columbia, and a 3.5 northstar. They all need adjusting!


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## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Aaron from Columbia tools has a whole series of videos on how to adjust them, here is the first one.
https://youtu.be/ElnSLE-TyuY


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## GreatLakesTools (Feb 27, 2015)

Terrence35 said:


> Can someone help me with adjusting my angle heads. I have a 3 inch Drywall master, 3 inch columbia, and a 3.5 northstar. They all need adjusting!


What are you looking to accomplish in your adjustment?


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## GreatLakesTools (Feb 27, 2015)

gazman said:


> Aaron from Columbia tools has a whole series of videos on how to adjust them, here is the first one.
> https://youtu.be/ElnSLE-TyuY


The theory behind allowing the head to "rock" doesn't accomplish much more than giving the head room to wobble in the corner, and creates inconsistency. The bullet clip will be trying to hold the head true and square in the point of the corner (as it should be) and will not allow both sides of the head to tilt at the same time, creating a teeter totter. 

For more mud, let the tool follow farther behind you when operating, for less mud, keep the tool more parallel to you, or slightly in front of you. Same for boxes.


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## gn87berner (Jan 3, 2016)

i have not seen the vids..I have a tape head that is over 10 yrs but it helps when the roller and glazer is the same person so they know there are clickers. I learned by trying different things until it ran clean and didnt tear tape. One thing is you cannot hand file the point. If you do not have access to a grinder or chop saw don't even try. Doyou already know how to adjust a box blade or nail spotter blade send a pm and i may be able to help


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## gn87berner (Jan 3, 2016)

another thing is make sure you have new set screws. It sucks to finally get it right and it goes out of adjustment in a week


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## gn87berner (Jan 3, 2016)

when I was younger I would just adjust them loose they would edge early then they would fill with taping mud shavings/dust and run what I thought was clean enough (fill with vinyl)kinda self adjust...but after growing and learning. set them up to run tight and clean them often in the process is better and higher quality


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

i have try a couple of time to adjust. never satisfy. ship them to columbia is 45$, now is perfect. or buy a new one to great lake tool, my new northstar are amazing after the break in.


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## gn87berner (Jan 3, 2016)

the toughest part imo is getting the blades to meet and not seperate leaving a edge in the corner. 1st make sure the frame is not bent from hitting the floor otherwise no chance. there should be little nubs in the slot for the blades and runners to insure the height is right, use the 45 degree angles of the blades sliding back and forth to find where they are happy. use grinder to slightly round the point. it really is not that hard. I am not a tool tech just and old taper


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

GreatLakesTools said:


> The theory behind allowing the head to "rock" doesn't accomplish much more than giving the head room to wobble in the corner, and creates inconsistency. The bullet clip will be trying to hold the head true and square in the point of the corner (as it should be) and will not allow both sides of the head to tilt at the same time, creating a teeter totter.
> 
> For more mud, let the tool follow farther behind you when operating, for less mud, keep the tool more parallel to you, or slightly in front of you. Same for boxes.


I have found that, for more mud, you put a very slight crown in the blades. If you have two angle heads, one dedicated for taping can be adjusted to leave less mud. It is also often overlooked how important it is in final inspection of adjustment to make sure the side shoes are making good consistent contact with the wall on both sides.


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## gn87berner (Jan 3, 2016)

i agree about the slight crown. I use to do the same thing with 3" nail spotter blades and even box blades but don't run them on the ceiling. in fear of crowning joints. on the wall less of an issue and better to run bad butts. your mix will have a big impact on how much mud is left


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## killerjune (Jun 18, 2011)

more water in the mud make more or less mud on the wall when using the boxe ?


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

killerjune said:


> more water in the mud make more or less mud on the wall when using the boxe ?



Depends on many factors. I was always one to observe and draw conclusions from my observations. My observation is that a slight crown in the angle blades is the only thing that leaves more mud. Providing more mud over the tape is what you want. But be careful. Crowning the blades is "heap of powerful medicine. Too much crown make one big mess." So a little crowning goes a long way.


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## Ladrywall (Jul 30, 2013)

I'm constantly trying for better operation of the anglehead, by making slight adjustments to the head or running it a different angles to the wall. Mine is setup with alot of rock which leaves plenty of mud over the tape but sometimes leaves an edge. I usually just spot the edges of all corners just to be sure it dosen't show thru. 

How do you crown the blades? I once compressed the head, slid the blades together at the point and tightened the set screws. This promptly snapped a blade when I let go of the head. What did I do wrong?


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Ladrywall said:


> I'm constantly trying for better operation of the anglehead, by making slight adjustments to the head or running it a different angles to the wall. Mine is setup with alot of rock which leaves plenty of mud over the tape but sometimes leaves an edge. I usually just spot the edges of all corners just to be sure it dosen't show thru.
> 
> How do you crown the blades? I once compressed the head, slid the blades together at the point and tightened the set screws. This promptly snapped a blade when I let go of the head. What did I do wrong?


I think angle head adjustment always begins where the blades meet in the center. Actually, it begins with cleaning and oiling the blade slots thoroughly. Blades just barely touching IN THE CENTER when not compressed. And just barely sticking out enough to clear the center retainer. The rest of the bade should begin by being pushed back deeply into the blade slot, with the adjuster screw backed out quite a bit. Tighten the inner most screws and the center screws. But not the outer most screws. To add a little crown, I typically do that by screwing in the adjuster screw enough to crown the blade sufficiently. When I have eyeballed it and like it, I tighten the outside set screws. Then it is time to adjust the slider shoes.


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## Ladrywall (Jul 30, 2013)

Thanks, I will definately do this. Maybe I can take a little rock out by doing this and it won't leave the edge. Would be great to not have to spot the edges.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

Ladrywall said:


> Thanks, I will definately do this. Maybe I can take a little rock out by doing this and it won't leave the edge. Would be great to not have to spot the edges.


If properly adjusted, it shouldn't edge except when the angles are out of square, or maybe when there is a recess present in the angle. After you think you have the blades adjusted, put the (clean) angle head in a square corner and check that the shoes are making good contact with the wall over their entire length. And leave only a very slight gap of the blade over the shoe. Barely noticeable gap when you drag a fingernail over it.


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## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

If your mud is too heavy, it will edge.


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