# Taping with durabond



## brianmulligan

Been doing a lot of small projects lately, one s that require me to put 3 coats on in one day. I find myself using 2 coats of durabond, then using all purpose for the last coat. On my last coat I m skimming out every taped surface because what I found is the durabond easysand really doesn t sand out, it just messes up your sand paper and sanding sponges. Half the problem is the easysand dries a different color than the all purpose so even though it may be smooth, it doesn t appear this way. I ve also found that using straightflex on all corners is much neater. Does anyone have any imput or advice? Does anyone know of a durabond that dries the same color as an all purpose compound?
Thanks


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## mld

Proform is white.


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## MrWillys

brianmulligan said:


> Been doing a lot of small projects lately, one s that require me to put 3 coats on in one day. I find myself using 2 coats of durabond, then using all purpose for the last coat. On my last coat I m skimming out every taped surface because what I found is the durabond easysand really doesn t sand out, it just messes up your sand paper and sanding sponges. Half the problem is the easysand dries a different color than the all purpose so even though it may be smooth, it doesn t appear this way. I ve also found that using straightflex on all corners is much neater. Does anyone have any imput or advice? Does anyone know of a durabond that dries the same color as an all purpose compound?
> Thanks


 Both USG Durabond, and USG Lightweight easy sand are hot muds and should always be coated with premixed, or they'll burn through the paint. Durabond is hard as a rock, but lightweight can be sanded with a lot of effort. I did 3 coats lightweight 5 minute on my patches with Westpac black dot skim coat. Next morning light scuff and coat again for a light sand level 5. I'm not a taper by trade, because that is separated where I'm from. I sure gained a lot of respect though helping tapers sand.


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## icerock drywall

durabond will dry a dark color and you don't sand...you wash it down and wipe it before it cures.
ez sand you can sand but I just treat it like durabond and scrap and wash if needed.
and 2 coats with durabond then mix the next coat with AP on the same day....with out cure time is not so good any time I do 3 coats I stick with all durabond ... or use 3 coats of ezsand ....never a need to change a coat of mud.
but that's just me:thumbup:


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## moore

brianmulligan said:


> does anyone know of a durabond that dries the same color as an all purpose compound?
> Thanks



no! ....


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## gluedandscrewed

you will have a hard time getting an acceptable paintable finish with just easy sand. if iam doing a rush job that requires to be done in one day I will tape with durabond (being careful not to leave any excess). scrape. first coat with proform 20 or 45 (scrape after its dry) and do a topping coat with a mixture of 20 mixed with all purpose joint compound so that I can actually sand it. about a 2:1 ratio of joint compound to 20. (note when mixing hot mud and all purpose: mix the hot mud and water combination first until creamy and then add the all purpose, don't just add dry mix to all purpose and add water.)

I also use a air mover to help speed up the drying process on the final coat if I need to sand that day. 

I have found that although hot mud goes off by chemical reaction, the mixture of hot mud and all purpose dries much faster than normal with a fan blowing on it. 

if you are insistant on using just hot mud for all three coats I would recommend proform for all three coats. ezsand sucks balls imo.


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## moore

gluedandscrewed said:


> you will have a hard time getting an acceptable paintable finish with just easy sand. if iam doing a rush job that requires to be done in one day I will tape with durabond (being careful not to leave any excess). scrape. first coat with proform 20 or 45 (scrape after its dry) and do a topping coat with a mixture of 20 mixed with all purpose joint compound so that I can actually sand it. about a 2:1 ratio of joint compound to 20. (note when mixing hot mud and all purpose: mix the hot mud and water combination first until creamy and then add the all purpose, don't just add dry mix to all purpose and add water.)
> 
> I also use a air mover to help speed up the drying process on the final coat if I need to sand that day.
> 
> I have found that although hot mud goes off by chemical reaction, the mixture of hot mud and all purpose dries much faster than normal with a fan blowing on it.
> 
> if you are insistant on using just hot mud for all three coats I would recommend proform for all three coats. ezsand sucks balls imo.


I agree ! A/P can cure just as quickly as any hot mud! But...Is It stronger?


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## gluedandscrewed

moore said:


> I agree ! A/P can cure just as quickly as any hot mud! But...Is It stronger?


No. I reserve durabond for certain applications where there are deep fills and small quick jobs. Durabond is the only hot mud I will tape with as I never had any luck with tape sticking well with easysand or proform .

hotmud is much stronger than ap. Ever tried to run a rotozip into a hotmud patch?


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## moore

gluedandscrewed said:


> No. I reserve durabond for certain applications where there are deep fills and small quick jobs. Durabond is the only hot mud I will tape with as I never had any luck with tape sticking well with easysand or proform .
> 
> hotmud is much stronger than ap. Ever tried to run a rotozip into a hotmud patch?


Thank you!


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## moore

Mix up a bucket of hot mud /any set time. 
mix up a bucket of A/P mud 

Dump them both out side by side ...Then come back 2 years later !


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## moore

If your putting your flat tapes on with A/P your just pissing in the wind!


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## Mr.Brightstar

You cant beat the streanght of durabond. USG must put something in the mix to turn it grey like cement. Plaster and lime is white as snow. White bag dryes white, but should still be toped with a topping.


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## moore

I'm right here! Bring It ON!


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## moore

no? ......


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## gluedandscrewed

moore said:


> If your putting your flat tapes on with A/P your just pissing in the wind!


i have taped over 7,000 boards(i know thats not much by this forums standards) with ap usg green top and never a callback.


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## moore

gluedandscrewed said:


> i have taped over 7,000 boards(i know thats not much by this forums standards) with ap usg green top and never a callback.


Just cause they don't complain don't mean there's not a complaint ..


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## gluedandscrewed

i continue to get work from them so .....

so your telling me if you have a whole house your doing your tape coat with nothing but durabond?


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## brianmulligan

Thanks for all your imput.
Couple of questions

MLD
Are you saying Proform easysand and a/p match up pretty good in color?

Mr. Willys
Anyone else experience easysand burning through the paint? Even with a primer?

Mr.Brightstar
Not sure what your saying


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## spacklinfool

*still confused*

We are all still confused as to why you guys still aren't using VARIO?!?!?!!? finish in one day and no tape excellent results...flats, butts, corners, nails, patches!!!


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## gluedandscrewed

the problem with hotmuds is not that they don't "match up" in color its that they are a pain in the ass to sand. its very hard to feather the edges while sanding. that's the reason why most people finish with an all purpose on top. Also, the different density of hot mud vs ap means they don't sand evenly. if you sand through the topping coat into the hot mud you will see the hotmud through paint. 

If I do patches with all hotmud (rarely) I will only use proform (easiest to sand) and will prime with gardz problem surface sealer. Gardz seems to be the only thing that seals hotmud well enough to be able to take a coat of paint in my opinion.


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## mld

spacklinfool said:


> We are all still confused as to why you guys still aren't using VARIO?!?!?!!? finish in one day and no tape excellent results...flats, butts, corners, nails, patches!!!


Drywaller- (dri-wäl-ër) a curious creature found in many parts of the world. Nocturnal and seen working a lot of weekend. Highly resistant to change and very argumentative. Be very careful mentioning such things as ' mesh tape' , 'pan vs. hawk' or 'light weight drywall'. This creature can be sedated with almost any fermented beverage. Natural habitat is white dust and loud music, and if left undisturbed usually bothers no one.


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## MrWillys

brianmulligan said:


> Mr. Willys
> Anyone else experience easysand burning through the paint? Even with a primer?





gluedandscrewed said:


> the problem with hotmuds is not that they don't "match up" in color its that they are a pain in the ass to sand. its very hard to feather the edges while sanding. that's the reason why most people finish with an all purpose on top. Also, the different density of hot mud vs ap means they don't sand evenly. *if you sand through the topping coat into the hot mud you will see the hotmud through paint.
> *
> If I do patches with all hotmud (rarely) I will only use proform (easiest to sand) and will prime with gardz problem surface sealer. Gardz seems to be the only thing that seals hotmud well enough to be able to take a coat of paint in my opinion.


 There ya go! I'm not a chemical engineer, but it is harder to hide hot mud from creating a sheen on walls that are shown natural light. The same applies to level 5 finish by coating the entire surface to create a consistent paint finish. It will also depend on type of construction. If it's a 60 year old building in the basement, or a high end high rise where money is no object and the highest quality is expected. a majority of my career was spent doing the later.


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## endo_alley

We prefill everything with setting mud and then tape with Wespac (Hamilton) taping mud. It dries every bit as hard as easy sand hot mud and has much better adhesion.


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## icerock drywall

lately I like ff with rapid coat joint compound. no hot mud


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## mld

I don't know Ice, mud that floats kinda creeps me out.


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## icerock drywall

mld said:


> I don't know Ice, mud that floats kinda creeps me out.


:boat: lol funny mld ok .....................on a small job with 3 coats all you need is to do is
mix ez-sand 45 with mudmax and tape coat.... the color will not change 
save one cup of the 1st coat mix and clean up
2nd coat mix ez sand with the one cup 
3 coat mix with clean water and finish 

mud max turns ap into durabond:thumbup:


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## mld

icerock drywall said:


> :boat: lol funny mld ok .....................on a small job with 3 coats all you need is to do is
> mix ez-sand 45 with mudmax and tape coat.... the color will not change
> save one cup of the 1st coat mix and clean up
> 2nd coat mix ez sand with the one cup
> 3 coat mix with clean water and finish
> 
> mud max turns ap into durabond:thumbup:


Don't get me wrong Ice, I've used Rapid Coat as per instructions on the box, just not sure I trust it.


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## icerock drywall

mld said:


> Don't get me wrong Ice, I've used Rapid Coat as per instructions on the box, just not sure I trust it.


10-4 good buddy :thumbsup: I don't tape with it. I like to coat with it because it gets hard unlike light mud and with my power sander its just right 

goldilocks theory
ap will not sand it buffs up (to hard)
light mud sands to easy (too soft)
rapid coat sands so nice (just right)


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## MrWillys

icerock drywall said:


> 10-4 good buddy :thumbsup: I don't tape with it. I like to coat with it because it gets hard unlike light mud and with my power sander its just right
> 
> goldilocks theory
> ap will not sand it buffs up (to hard)
> light mud sands to easy (too soft)
> rapid coat sands so nice (just right)


 I've never heard of Rapid Coat, but this explanation is why I liked Westpac black dot. USG Plus 3 is to damn soft and leaves sanding scratches.


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## Mr.Brightstar

Im thinking of changing up my tapeing system. I dont like the idea of giveing up hot mud as a tape coat. Im thinking ff with a hot max banjo. 8' box with white bag. Then 12' topping. 

Has anyone had hot mud set up in a box, bazooka, mud tube, and or pump??


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## icerock drywall

Mr.Brightstar said:


> Im thinking of changing up my tapeing system. I dont like the idea of giveing up hot mud as a tape coat. Im thinking ff with a hot max banjo. 8' box with white bag. Then 12' topping.
> 
> Has anyone had hot mud set up in a box, bazooka, mud tube, and or pump??


that should be on a post of its own:thumbup: yes I locked up my tube with durabond one time.....lots of hot water and picking the chunks out of the tip and notice that some water get on the back side and that makes a mess as well. so that's went I cut my tube up and made my tube so I can take it apart to clean it:thumbsup:


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## Mr.Brightstar

icerock drywall said:


> that should be on a post of its own:thumbup: yes I locked up my tube with durabond one time.....lots of hot water and picking the chunks out of the tip and notice that some water get on the back side and that makes a mess as well. so that's went I cut my tube up and made my tube so I can take it apart to clean it:thumbsup:


That sounds like a PITA. Im sure you had fun dissecting your new project. I would've bought a new one right away.


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## icerock drywall

Mr.Brightstar said:


> That sounds like a PITA. Im sure you had fun dissecting your new project. I would've bought a new one right away.


when I did run durabond in my tube to fill my box I would leave the tube in water...this would help keep the mud from getting hard on the tip. but one day I forgot and left it in the water over night and it locked up.


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## sdrdrywall

Screw all that gimme a bucket of usg green lid and my bazooka .it's drywall you guys are way over thinking this .put it on the wall .gimme my check .and off to the next one:yes:


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## icerock drywall

sdrdrywall said:


> Screw all that gimme a bucket of usg green lid and my bazooka .it's drywall you guys are way over thinking this .put it on the wall .gimme my check .and off to the next one:yes:


lmao
:thumbsup: that fine on a house but the over thinking is good on a small job


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## sdrdrywall

icerock drywall said:


> lmao
> :thumbsup: that fine on a house but the over thinking is good on a small job


Not good .we pick things up and put them down for a living .whooo hooo get 3 small jobs tape them all 1 day .:jester:what the hell second coat them too were already working let's make some money......


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## moore

mld said:


> Drywaller- (dri-wäl-ër) a curious creature found in many parts of the world. Nocturnal and seen working a lot of weekend. Highly resistant to change and very argumentative. Be very careful mentioning such things as ' mesh tape' , 'pan vs. hawk' or 'light weight drywall'. This creature can be sedated with almost any fermented beverage. Natural habitat is white dust and loud music, and if left undisturbed usually bothers no one.


lol....That's funny as all hell!!!!!!! LMAO!!!


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## icerock drywall

sdrdrywall said:


> Not good .we pick things up and put them down for a living .whooo hooo get 3 small jobs tape them all 1 day .:jester:what the hell second coat them too were already working let's make some money......


lol... ok you win


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## icerock drywall

moore said:


> lol....That's funny as all hell!!!!!!! LMAO!!!


:thumbup: I missed this post lol to funny


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## VANMAN

Only use readymix 2 put on tapes!:yes:
Ive used hotmuds with papertape and it can swell the tapes which is not good!:blink:


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## squarefoot

brianmulligan said:


> Been doing a lot of small projects lately, one s that require me to put 3 coats on in one day. I find myself using 2 coats of durabond, then using all purpose for the last coat. On my last coat I m skimming out every taped surface because what I found is the durabond easysand really doesn t sand out, it just messes up your sand paper and sanding sponges. Half the problem is the easysand dries a different color than the all purpose so even though it may be smooth, it doesn t appear this way. I ve also found that using straightflex on all corners is much neater. Does anyone have any imput or advice? Does anyone know of a durabond that dries the same color as an all purpose compound?
> Thanks


 watch for fish eyes, especially in the angles I've always had to skim with mud to get rid of the fish eyes


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## Pytlik

VANMAN said:


> Only use readymix 2 put on tapes!:yes:
> Ive used hotmuds with papertape and it can swell the tapes which is not good!:blink:


what about 2nd and 3nd coat ?


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## icerock drywall

I have mixed durabond with fiberglass and ran my flats in a garage with no tape or mesh or ff....no cracks. but its only been 2 years


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## icerock drywall

before ff I used durabond on all my jobs on my tape coat but I used only mesh:shutup:


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## MrWillys

icerock drywall said:


> before ff I used durabond on all my jobs on my tape coat but I used only mesh:shutup:


 even the angles?


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## icerock drywall

MrWillys said:


> even the angles?


yep. mesh run beed and back fill at the same time...then flush


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## icerock drywall

more pics with mesh in corners


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## VANMAN

Pytlik said:


> what about 2nd and 3nd coat ?


Readymix mud!:thumbsup:


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## Corey The Taper

Ive been using mesh with durabond on flats and corners ever since ice told me and I dont see any difference then paper tape if anything its faster. I havent done any houses yet with it that would have stress but I have used it to do a commercial job with 500 sheets and no problems yet.


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## fr8train

At least you used good mesh


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## MuddingSilly

Lol @ at meshing the corners.


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## icerock drywall

MuddingSilly said:


> Lol @ at meshing the corners.


It's easy with a flusher


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