# My Drywall Repair Turned Into A SORE THUMB



## Scotty13 (Mar 7, 2011)

I just recently patched up some holes in my bathrooms were the ceramic towel and toilet paper was. This is my first time doing something like this. They seemed to turn out okay, until I painted over them and now they stand out like a sore thumb. Any suggestion how I can fix this bore I take a hammer, make another hole and start over? 
Thanks, Scotty​


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## WhiteNorth (Mar 3, 2010)

take a hammer, make another hole?

Goodness Grief laddy. A questian like that might get a few jokers fired up around here. Are you going to use a 20lb sledge hammer?

Don't get me wrong. I'm not a smart Asss and I'm not pickin on you BUT you're in the wrong forum I think.


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

Scotty13 said:


> I just recently patched up some holes in my bathrooms were the ceramic towel and toilet paper was. This is my first time doing something like this. They seemed to turn out okay, until I painted over them and now they stand out like a sore thumb. Any suggestion how I can fix this bore I take a hammer, make another hole and start over?
> Thanks, Scotty​


yours is a painting issue, go to paint talk, they love new people there:whistling2:


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> yours is a painting issue, go to paint talk, they love new people there:whistling2:


A better forum for you where many professionals are eager to help out diy problems like this would be www.DIYChatroom.com I'm a member there but have not been too active there since the economy turned for us a few years back. 

It does not sound like a paint issue, it sounds like either you needed another coat of mud or you poorly sanded the area, or maybe both. Go to the forum I suggested and you will find many people eager to show you that they know what they are talking about.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Did you back block the holes and cut out the loose edges and fill till level, then tape then 2 or 3 more coats of plaster feathering it out as you go and ensuring the mud was dry, then lightly sand, then prime, then lightly sand and re touch up and re prime if needed, then did you sand and paint the whole wall with two top coats?? Get the idea :thumbsup:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

notice how cazna said it's a paint issue too, worky:yes:
he patched some holes then painted, like flash!!!!!!!!!!!


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> notice how cazna said it's a paint issue too, worky:yes:
> he patched some holes then painted, like flash!!!!!!!!!!!


If he didnt prime/seal/undercoat the plaster, lightly sand, and 2 top coat the whole wall and not just the patch then it will always be a patch up job you will see, What you reckon worky :whistling2:


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

cazna said:


> If he didnt prime/seal/undercoat the plaster, lightly sand, and 2 top coat the whole wall and not just the patch then it will always be a patch up job you will see, What you reckon worky :whistling2:


I agree, it depends on if he did the drywall correctly, then properly prepped the wall and then properly finished the wall. 

They will get to the bottom of it at the diy forum, www.DIYChatroom.com maybe he should include some pics there as well to clear up any confusion.


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

2buckcanuck said:


> notice how cazna said it's a paint issue too, worky:yes:
> he patched some holes then painted, like flash!!!!!!!!!!!


I read that but how many times have you seen HO's think they finished drywall without sanding very well or doing it very well and not notice how bad it was until after they painted it? That is where my mind went, maybe it was just instinct to disagree with you. :whistling2:


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Thinning paint correctly so it flows and levels but not overthinning is a very important part of it that only experance will tell you, Most/all HO will just stick a brush into a full tin, apply and try to spread out, That will make a big patch as well, It would need sanded and full wall re painted to try and fix.


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## joepro0000 (Jun 14, 2008)

what part of Florida are you in?


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

gut the hole room and start over !  and when every wall looks like  call someone who knows what there doing. 3rd time is a charm !!!!


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## Scotty13 (Mar 7, 2011)

If I bought a ELECTRIC PALM SANDER and sanded down the bumps (walls already painted) would that help without redoing the holes over?


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## MacDry (Feb 1, 2010)

Scotty13 said:


> If I bought a ELECTRIC PALM SANDER and sanded down the bumps (walls already painted) would that help without redoing the holes over?


 I wouldnt waste the money. I would just re coat the patches, feather it out wider and sand and coat and sand and coat and sand and coat, until you love it! then prime and paint again. If you can take a picture that would really help out the advice giving I think.


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## Checkers (Jun 25, 2010)

SCOTTY, hire a pro to fix it. It will be the easiest thing for you to do.


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## Workaholic (Dec 13, 2010)

After you do what MacDry suggests, sand entire wall, primes spots, sand the primed spots and then repaint entire wall twice.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

yes! :thumbsuplease use a palm sander on drywall


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## WhiteNorth (Mar 3, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> yes! :thumbsuplease use a palm sander on drywall


Aren't you gonna suggest what grit of sandpaper to use?

And how come nobody explained that a level 5 DW finish is required?


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

first you have to start with 60 grit to get the really high bumps out. then go to 100 to smooth out the lines from the 60. then you do 150 over the whole wall. reducing grits just like a car or a 2x4. don't forget to really grind the sander into the wall or it won't work well.


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

level 5 is trade secret. even i shouldn't know.


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## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

WhiteNorth said:


> Aren't you gonna suggest what grit of sandpaper to use?
> 
> And how come nobody explained that a level 5 DW finish is required?


Becouse thats not needed in a small bathroom if you know what to do.



carpentaper said:


> first you have to start with 60 grit to get the really high bumps out. then go to 100 to smooth out the lines from the 60. then you do 150 over the whole wall. reducing grits just like a car or a 2x4. don't forget to really grind the sander into the wall or it won't work well.


Whats with all you buggers rough sanding everything, 180g on a sander is all thats required, any rougher and you will stuff it.


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## Scotty13 (Mar 7, 2011)

Thank you everyone for your help, I really do appreciate it.


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## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

carpentaper said:


> first you have to start with 60 grit to get the really high bumps out. then go to 100 to smooth out the lines from the 60. then you do 150 over the whole wall. reducing grits just like a car or a 2x4. don't forget to really grind the sander into the wall or it won't work well.


:yes::yes:


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## Scotty13 (Mar 7, 2011)

I got my brothers electric palm sander and sanded down the bumps, paint included. So far, I'm glad I did it. Thanks again for everyones help.

Scotty​


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Workaholic said:


> Go to the forum I suggested and you will find many people eager to show you that they know what they are talking about.


:lol:


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## carpentaper (Feb 28, 2009)

i don't even know what to say anymore:whistling2:


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

well I'm going to suggest a belt sander, sand until you have removed paint and paper on the board. let us know when your done with that and we'll go from there !!


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## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

drywall guy158 said:


> well I'm going to suggest a belt sander, sand until you have removed paint and paper on the board. let us know when your done with that and we'll go from there !!


You'll get quicker removal with an angle grinder with a sanding attachment....I recommend 36 grit for speedy removal:thumbup: Just be sure to open a window in the room, and one across the house to create good cross ventilation.:whistling2:


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## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

you guys are mean,,,,,I love it


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## drywall guy158 (Dec 31, 2009)

SlimPickins said:


> You'll get quicker removal with an angle grinder with a sanding attachment....I recommend 36 grit for speedy removal:thumbup: Just be sure to open a window in the room, and one across the house to create good cross ventilation.:whistling2:


:wallbash: see thats why its always good to have a second or 3rd bid....this way would be much faster !!:laughing: l.m.f.a.o. !!!! hope we were able to help you out on your little project "scotty13"


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## Germ (Feb 17, 2011)

Get a Hopper and shoot the crap out of that wall...........Works every time! 85 psi


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