# fibafuse



## msd (Apr 10, 2011)

how many are using this on all there jobs on flats and butts with no call backs on any joint failure. is there better results with hot mud or all purpose. tried a little today on some patches and worked nice. <br>


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Thats all I have really used it on too is patches. I think I have gone through 6 rolls worth of patches though . It is my favorite tape to use by far.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

I used it on a small job I did for my sister, was a one room reno, did flats and butts with it, think I did the angles with paper. Haven't been back to see it, but I thought it was nice stuff. Very little pressure needed to wipe the tape as the mud can come through it, and not have to be pushed out around it.

My issue with it is the cost, from all-wall $4+/ 250' roll. Not cheap. Just like collated screws, unless you supply your own materials, good luck getting someone to stock it for you. Other than that, I'd use it again.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

Anyone running it through a taper? I ran it through mine and had no issues with the gooser pin shredding it. For those that did have that problem, what did you do to fix it? I was thinking that a pencil eraser stuck on the needle might work.... Might have to patent that idea


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

msd said:


> how many are using this on all there jobs on flats and butts with no call backs on any joint failure. is there better results with hot mud or all purpose. tried a little today on some patches and worked nice. <br>


Only places I still choose paper over FibaFuse is in the corners, and prefer paper if someone I'm not sure about is wiping butt tapes - that they might wipe too tight on some butt joints and cut the FF too much.

Some butt joints wiped too tight is the only place I know of that we've had problems so far when it comes to FF.



fr8train said:


> Anyone running it through a taper? I ran it through mine and had no issues with the gooser pin shredding it. For those that did have that problem, what did you do to fix it? I was thinking that a pencil eraser stuck on the needle might work.... Might have to patent that idea


FibaFuse runs nice through all our tapers - Columbia, TapeTech, Northstar. Even the old diehards we have are sold on it.
One I was talking with the other day mentioned he was thinking to pull his gooser needle back a bit for it.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

In the last 3 days alone I've gone through almost 25 rolls.
I love the stuff!!! Absolutely love it!
As has been mentioned, it's a little tricky in the corners when taping by hand. Have to be careful, the putty knives will cut into a bit.. 
It works phenomenally well through a bazooka with roller and flusher. My corners have never looked so nice and the 3-ways are absolutely the easiest to pick. 
After these last few days and how fast and effective I find FibaFuse I truthfully don't ever see myself going back to paper tape.

I could care less of how much it costs.
I mean locally, a 250" roll is like 7.50$ which is expensive, so I'm going to start buying all my rolls from WallTools and just charge more.

In my opinion it's one of the best new technological advancements in taping, and anyone who hasn't tried it yet, I strongly recommend it.
Especially if using auto-tools!
It wipes down so fast and smooth. 

It has my approval! :thumbsup:


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

It's good stuff. Period.

I generally use it with hot mud and glue. But....never in angles:no:


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> It's good stuff. Period.
> 
> I generally use it with hot mud and glue. But....never in angles:no:


I only started using it in the angles these last two days Slim and truthfully I'm very excited to finish them and see how they turn out, because it was so much faster and easier it was amazing.
So as long as it's not compromising quality I will keep on using it in the angles.

I'm curious to hear what Saskataper has to say about this.
As far as I know, he's hardly ever even used paper tape. He was trained on FibaFuse and that's all he uses.
Look forward to hearing from him.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I mean locally, a 250" roll is like 7.50$ which is expensive, so I'm going to start buying all my rolls from WallTools and just charge more.


Only a couple bucks more for the 500' rolls, vs. the 250' rolls.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

JustMe said:


> Only a couple bucks more for the 500' rolls, vs. the 250' rolls.


Do you know if the 500' rolls fit on a bazooka? I've never seen how big they are...


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> I only started using it in the angles these last two days Slim and truthfully I'm very excited to finish them and see how they turn out, because it was so much faster and easier it was amazing.
> So as long as it's not compromising quality I will keep on using it in the angles.
> 
> I'm curious to hear what Saskataper has to say about this.
> ...


I suppose it depends on how you're wiping the angles down. It seems like a flusher might be gentle enough, but I hand wipe (stone-age pickins, they call me) and on rare occasion I will slice paper tape.....FibaFuse wouldn't make it through intact.

By the way, package didn't make it into the mail today, I'm going to get it ready tonight though.

And, I think I just ate a pound of almonds.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> I suppose it depends on how you're wiping the angles down. It seems like a flusher might be gentle enough, but I hand wipe (stone-age pickins, they call me) and on rare occasion I will slice paper tape.....FibaFuse wouldn't make it through intact.
> 
> By the way, package didn't make it into the mail today, I'm going to get it ready tonight though.
> 
> And, I think I just ate a pound of almonds.


Oh okay! Ya, if you're wiping your angles down by hand I would definitely stick to paper.
I haven't tried using my angle head over it yet, I will for my final pass, but to apply the tape, the flusher seems to embed it a little more, leaves a little more mud on top which is what I want.

I didn't know you did your angles by hand slim, not a fan of flushers? Or is it just not worth it with the amount of reno's?

And oh no! A pound almonds!? lol!
Move over 2buck, here comes NotSoSlimPickins! :laughing:


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Do you know if the 500' rolls fit on a bazooka? I've never seen how big they are...


Diameter will usually be Very close to the space between the 2 pins that your tape roll retainer wire fits into. You might even have to move the pins out a touch if you find things a bit tight before the 1st couple wraps peel off.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

JustMe said:


> Diameter will usually be Very close to the space between the 2 pins that your tape roll retainer wire fits into. You might even have to move the pins out a touch if you find things a bit tight before the 1st couple wraps peel off.


Good to know! Thanks man!


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Oh okay! Ya, if you're wiping your angles down by hand I would definitely stick to paper.
> I haven't tried using my angle head over it yet, I will for my final pass, but to apply the tape, the flusher seems to embed it a little more, leaves a little more mud on top which is what I want.
> 
> I didn't know you did your angles by hand slim, not a fan of flushers? Or is it just not worth it with the amount of reno's?
> ...


You nailed it....so many renovations, and not many over 20 boards. This last garage was 30 sheets, and that's the biggest job I've had since last fall. 

Even 30 sheets..... bead, tape, top in a day, skim the next, sand and done on the 3rd (1/2 day).

I think about running the tools again sometimes, but then I find a new saw/router/hand plane/random high quality sharp thing to spend my money on :laughing: I'm still called upon to do drywall on a regular basis, but I'm getting a lot more calls about full remodel these days.........never a dull moment:thumbsup:


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> You nailed it....so many renovations, and not many over 20 boards. This last garage was 30 sheets, and that's the biggest job I've had since last fall.
> 
> Even 30 sheets..... bead, tape, top in a day, skim the next, sand and done on the 3rd (1/2 day).
> 
> I think about running the tools again sometimes, but then I find a new saw/router/hand plane/random high quality sharp thing to spend my money on :laughing: I'm still called upon to do drywall on a regular basis, but I'm getting a lot more calls about full remodel these days.........never a dull moment:thumbsup:


Whatever works eh bro.
How do you apply your tapes then? Just by hand? Or do you use a banjo or something?

And I've seen your woodwork, I would call on you for that too!


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Whatever works eh bro.
> How do you apply your tapes then? Just by hand? Or do you use a banjo or something?
> 
> And I've seen your woodwork, I would call on you for that too!


Depending on the job, I'll use whatever is fastest or whatever makes the schedule work properly. It's a mix nowadays of mesh and FibaFuse, with paper in the angles always. I use the "dunny brush" to load the angles, my finger is the roller, and I wipe with a 5".

I've got a bigger job coming up later this year, but I'm probably going to have to sub out the tape/top/skim on it because it needs to be done on the cheap, and there are plenty of guys out there who work for less than I do. Then I'll come in and make it look nice.

Just ate another handful of almonds. :blink:

(and thank you for the compliment!:yes


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> Depending on the job, I'll use whatever is fastest or whatever makes the schedule work properly. It's a mix nowadays of mesh and FibaFuse, with paper in the angles always. I use the "dunny brush" to load the angles, my finger is the roller, and I wipe with a 5".
> 
> I've got a bigger job coming up later this year, but I'm probably going to have to sub out the tape/top/skim on it because it needs to be done on the cheap, and there are plenty of guys out there who work for less than I do. Then I'll come in and make it look nice.
> 
> ...


Lol! Finger roller! Nice one! You should patent that stuff.

I hate working behind other people. Over someone else's work..yuck..
I got a call like that this week.
I job I looked at like 2-3 months ago, they decided to hire someone else instead of me, they said this other guy was like 3g's cheaper.
Anyways, my time frame was two weeks to finish the job. Board and Tape.
The guy they decided to hire has been there for 2 and half months!
So the home owner called me up apologizing for not having used us in the first place and blah blah blah, he wanted me to come in and finish this other guys work, it's about 80% done...blah blah blah.

I just said sorry, not interested. We're too busy.
Then the home owner called me back and said, can you at least just come look at the job to give me an idea of how much I should be paying this idiot? :blink:
Apparently the guy they hired decided his price was too low and now wanted more money but he's taking too long so they don't want him to finish. lol.

I might pop in with my video camera just for a good laugh for every one. lol

Easy on those Almonds there boy!
Haha. Actually I like peanuts as well! I should buy some tomorrow.


----------



## gazman (Apr 29, 2011)

Dunny brush.:thumbup:


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

SlimPickins said:


> Just ate another handful of almonds. :blink:


Are they chocolate coated, I love chocolate coated Almonds :blink::yes:

Dammit, now I got to drive up to the store:furious:


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I started using Fibafuse a long time ago and I'm not getting any problems, I'm using it in the corners now as well, once you corner roll Fuse compared to paper you'll never want to go back, no hidden dry spots, easier to roll in, no mud bumps under the tape at end of the angle, if there's a screw needs tweaking in just stick the screwdriver straight through the tape and tweak it, wrinkles are easy dealt with by slicing with a broadknife, and the list goes on..... but it stops when you have to pay for it, I think it must be made out of gold or something :blink:
I'm using a banjo with a creaser wheel for angles, Columbia roller, and Northstar angleheads.
But there's a learning curve to using it, especially overhead when there's a tab of tape hanging at one end, any more than a 1" tab and it'll all peel off for sure.


----------



## bluelineman (Aug 28, 2012)

It doesn't come up if you sand abit too deep, it just sands away easily. Pretty good stuff though.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Ive used a fair amount of fuse, No problems here, Once i taped a house in paper, Then the painters were finishing off the ceilings and i looked up in the main living kitchen dining area and oh look, A fine crack, So how the hell do i fix this then, Turns out the builders ran the sheets the same way as the steel battens, Not accross them so thats backblocking out, Well, I will just fibafuse over it i thought, Its all i got, So i did, Hoping like hell it would cover it, And it did, It covered the crack, Still havent had any callback 3 years later.

And as for corners, Kiwiman said has been doing it for a while, So i tryed it on a few in my place, Im wallpapering it so good chance to try it out if it fails, Bazooka taped them, Rolled, Passed the tapeworm 4 on the runner down it and it didnt tear out any much to my surprise, But it wasnt very even and the mud was all fibaed out if you get what i mean, I thought well, Ive tryed and i dont think its for me but i second coated it with the tapepro plastic bodyed 3 on the runner and looked at it and thought big improvement but thats not gonna sand out to good, Im gonna bring out fibas when i sand........Well...........I was wrong, It sanded great, In fact with paper you know how its just slighlty rounded and the knife wont scrape it square, will with fuse you can, And i got no fibas, Its a nice coated and very square corners, So bugger a sheep it works much to my amazement. Unfortunatly is closer to $20 per roll for me, Paper is $5.


----------



## gam026 (Aug 14, 2011)

://youtu.be/qDG8tVq7CsM

Not sure if anyone has seen this vid but those a those have not seen fibafuse in action here ya go.


----------



## msd (Apr 10, 2011)

found 4 cases of 250 ft rolls on ebay got them for $43 shipped to my house. $2.15 a roll.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

msd said:


> found 4 cases of 250 ft rolls on ebay got them for $43 shipped to my house. $2.15 a roll.


Ya, Fr8train sent me an Ebay add which was the same thing. Good deal. I tried to buy it too but I tjen found out they didn't ship to Canada. 
I'm pretty sure they still have 4 boxes available.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

cazna said:


> Unfortunatly is closer to $20 per roll for me, Paper is $5.


 $20 per roll? I'm paying $11.95, I think it's about $20 - $22 full retail at Mitre10. I should bring you a box full of it next time I'm over that way :yes:.


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Kiwiman said:


> $20 per roll? I'm paying $11.95, I think it's about $20 - $22 full retail at Mitre10. I should bring you a box full of it next time I'm over that way :yes:.


$14 per roll, Plus freight and gst from R&S tradecentre, Closer to $20, So five rolls for almost $100, Or 5 of paper for $25. $70 Difference, Thats a fair amount of lunch money.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

cazna said:


> $14 per roll, Plus freight and gst from R&S tradecentre, Closer to $20, So five rolls for almost $100, Or 5 of paper for $25. $70 Difference, Thats a fair amount of lunch money.


Why is everything so much more damn expensive where you guys are?
That seems crazy!


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Why is everything so much more damn expensive where you guys are?
> That seems crazy!


Prob cause we are so far away, Shipping and tax costs add to everything.


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

cazna said:


> Prob cause we are so far away, Shipping and tax costs add to everything.


That's just ridiculous...


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> Prob cause we are so far away, Shipping and tax costs add to everything.


Or maybe the rest of the world don't like how you mates treat your sheep


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> Or maybe the rest of the world don't like how you mates treat your sheep


Should we just call that the Sheep Shagging Tax?


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

Team up on me why dont ya you Northern Hemisphere Gang bangers :whistling2:


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I got your back Caz, look at how they breed sheep in the northern hemispere :stuart: .......makes me wonder what or who they are crossed with :sneaky2:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

That might have been the one that had its head stuck in fence that 2buck tagged. :yes:


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

cazna said:


> Prob cause we are so far away, Shipping and tax costs add to everything.


If that's true, is your paper tape made in Australia/New Zealand then, that it's so much cheaper?


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

cazna said:


> That might have been the one that had its head stuck in fence that 2buck tagged. :yes:


Tis not

That sheep has a bald head just like kiwiman. Keeping it's head upside down hides it:whistling2:


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

2buckcanuck said:


> Tis not
> 
> That sheep has a bald head just like kiwiman. Keeping it's head upside down hides it:whistling2:


Looks like it might be time to photoshop 2Buck again


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

I think I know what happened :sneaky2:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

JustMe said:


> If that's true, is your paper tape made in Australia/New Zealand then, that it's so much cheaper?


I dont know where paper is made, Some of it was murco re branded GIB, I think thats a USA brand, I presume paper is cheaper to produce than fuse or many brands of paper only one of fuse keep the cost up, Papertape can be brought with the local mud at any hardware store, Fuse only has a few dealers, So i have to freight it.


----------



## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

I dont like it, its to eichy. its like the plague. my best advice is to soke it in a bucket of water. otherwise dress like a insulatator.

dont get wong its the **** but.....to eichy!


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

smokebuttjoint said:


> I dont like it, its to eichy. its like the plague. my best advice is to soke it in a bucket of water. otherwise dress like a insulatator.
> 
> dont get wong its the **** but.....to eichy!


My first few rolls felt like that, Then it just stopped, Havent tryed soaking it in water, Might give it a go.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

smokebuttjoint said:


> dont get wong its the **** but.....to eichy!


Oh, I think you must be using it wrong....it's not _toilet _paper!


----------



## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

Maybe I just don't like fiberglass. Pulling fiberglass out my arms with duct tape at the end of the day isn't fun.


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

smokebuttjoint said:


> Maybe I just don't like fiberglass. Pulling fiberglass out my arms with duct tape at the end of the day isn't fun.


Ouch!

An old-time insulator told me that he fills up his pores with baby powder before work, and has far less problems with itching. Maybe FibaFuse should come with a small container of baby powder (in addition to a special wipe-down knife to avoid cracked butts due to overwiping) :laughing:


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> Ouch!
> 
> An old-time insulator told me that he fills up his pores with baby powder before work, and has far less problems with itching. Maybe FibaFuse should come with a small container of baby powder (in addition to a special wipe-down knife to avoid cracked butts due to overwiping) :laughing:


baby powder for cracked butts eh? :lol:


----------



## DLSdrywall (May 22, 2012)

or you could cover your body in vaseline...that works too, or was that something else i was thinking of


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Itching? baby powder? vaseline? ........Oh come on, Hard-on up people!!! :sneaky2:........sorry....... "*Harden*" up people!!! :whistling2:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

So who has trouble with dry, cracked and split hands?? I do, One thumb, The bugger gets a split on it at he corner of the nail, Dam it hurts, Ive try everything, All the lotions and potions, Sometimes i need to tape it up, The best stuff ive found is a product call milkeez, Really great, Its actually for milking cows, Good on there tits, I offered to try it on the mrs, Offer was declined


----------



## PrecisionTaping (Feb 2, 2012)

cazna said:


> So who has trouble with dry, cracked and split hands?? I do, One thumb, The bugger gets a split on it at he corner of the nail, Dam it hurts, Ive try everything, All the lotions and potions, Sometimes i need to tape it up, The best stuff ive found is a product call milkeez, Really great, Its actually for milking cows, Good on there tits, I offered to try it on the mrs, Offer was declined


:lol: Haha! Sorry to hear your offer was declined buddy.
When it get's cold out I get really dry hands and elbows. I always have to put hand cream on otherwise they would get really dry and crack up.
Mostly only when it gets cold though. Around 2-3 weeks ago I had to start.
As far as your thumb goes, try wearing like a moisturising glove when you sleep. That would really help!


----------



## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Bagbalm:yes: Like PT said, where a glove at night and tape it off in the day. It should fix up in a few weeks. Bagbalm is used for cows tits also


----------



## Philma Crevices (Jan 28, 2012)

chris said:


> Bagbalm:yes: Like PT said, where a glove at night and tape it off in the day. It should fix up in a few weeks. Bagbalm is used for cows tits also


Haha, I forgot about that stuff. My ex swore by it for diaper rash cure, then I read the jar about its intended uses... dairy cow nipple cream :blink: and was like... umm, desitin works pretty well, so we can stick with that :yes: But ya, great for chap skin


----------



## chris (Apr 13, 2011)

Ya,, here in Idaho Bagbalm is used for lots of things:whistling2: Lotsa cows. I tend to grow a 6th toe out the side of my back heel, I think its from wearing stilts. I will put it on my heels and put on socks at night. That chit works wonders. My partner has bad cracks on his hands and they are always botherin him. If he can keep them covered and bagbalm them they go away. It does take a while tho


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

We got guys in love with sheep. Now we got guys in love with cows. I really don't want to find out whats next.


----------



## smisner50s (Jan 6, 2011)

A smooth finish said:


> We got guys in love with sheep. Now we got guys in love with cows. I really don't want to find out whats next.


Bevecons


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

A smooth finish said:


> We got guys in love with sheep. Now we got guys in love with cows. I really don't want to find out whats next.


:whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


----------



## cazna (Mar 28, 2010)

:lol: Lol, Wise words those 2buck :yes:


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

cazna said:


> So who has trouble with dry, cracked and split hands?? I do, One thumb


Used to have cracked thumb problem as well. Pharmacist recommended this: http://www.dermaltherapy.com/product.asp?ID=2

Worked fast, and well.


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

JustMe said:


> Used to have cracked thumb problem as well. Pharmacist recommended this: http://www.dermaltherapy.com/product.asp?ID=2
> 
> Worked fast, and well.



You realize what Urea is, right?


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

fr8train said:


> You realize what Urea is, right?


Are you trying to say Justme should just pee on his hands









If we ever meet in the real world justme, we shall forgo the hand shake


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

2buck, don't know if you clicked on the link he posted, but it says a primary ingredient is Urea. Nuff said, LOL


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

fr8train said:


> You realize what Urea is, right?


In this instance it's a synthetic, that's also used in soaps, creams, shampoos, hair conditioners; and also as a flavouring agent. Chances are, you and 2buck are covered in it, inside and outside.


----------



## moore (Dec 2, 2010)

cazna said:


> So who has trouble with dry, cracked and split hands?? I do, One thumb, The bugger gets a split on it at he corner of the nail, Dam it hurts, Ive try everything, All the lotions and potions, Sometimes i need to tape it up, The best stuff ive found is a product call milkeez, Really great, Its actually for milking cows, Good on there tits, I offered to try it on the mrs, Offer was declined


 Works fast.


----------



## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

SlimPickins said:


> Ouch!
> 
> An old-time insulator told me that he fills up his pores with baby powder before work, and has far less problems with itching. Maybe FibaFuse should come with a small container of baby powder (in addition to a special wipe-down knife to avoid cracked butts due to overwiping) :laughing:


 Thanks I appreciate the advice. Old guy told me that 1 time as well. Haven't had the chance to try it. Trust me anything helps. But I think I was using a thiker gauge of fiberglass fuse. Problem is most of the guys on here used it once or twice. Not like me all day long. I'm saying most. I'm sure there's someone out there.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

moore said:


> Works fast.


Hahaha "crack creme" :laughing:..... Over here they call it proctosol


----------



## smokebuttjoint (Sep 13, 2012)

My Old man, Keeps going on No crack cream. Keeps telling me How to get gelin


----------



## SlimPickins (Aug 10, 2010)

Picture 1 is what I use (you can even use it on your lips, it has no fragrance added). Picture 2 is what we used on the babies' bottoms and I bet it would work great for hands.....and laughs on the job site:laughing:


----------



## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

So to contribute to the Fibafuse thread I second the Bag Balm... then I actually have a Fibafuse question 

Are you guys taping with AP then first coating (block coat, bedding, fill coat, whatever else you call the first coat after tape ) on the same day? Or are you letting it dry until the next day like regular paper tape... 

I have some fun HO work coming up and it would be nice to knock a day off the project as long as I knew that coating wet FF was legit.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

br549 said:


> So to contribute to the Fibafuse thread I second the Bag Balm... then I actually have a Fibafuse question
> 
> Are you guys taping with AP then first coating (block coat, bedding, fill coat, whatever else you call the first coat after tape ) on the same day? Or are you letting it dry until the next day like regular paper tape...
> 
> I have some fun HO work coming up and it would be nice to knock a day off the project as long as I knew that coating wet FF was legit.


I've done quite a few small jobs where the travel time takes twice as long as the job itself, so I 2 coat with 20 minute set then topcoat with A/P all at once and have no problems at all, you have to give it a few days extra before sanding for it to dry thoroughly but there's no sign of the tape sucking back in or anything, FF's not affected by moisture so it's perfect for those types of jobs.


----------



## 2buckcanuck (Jul 9, 2010)

br549 said:


> So to contribute to the Fibafuse thread I second the Bag Balm... then I actually have a Fibafuse question
> 
> Are you guys taping with AP then first coating (block coat, bedding, fill coat, whatever else you call the first coat after tape ) on the same day? Or are you letting it dry until the next day like regular paper tape...
> 
> I have some fun HO work coming up and it would be nice to knock a day off the project as long as I knew that coating wet FF was legit.


That's where my interest lies with the FF. Have seen a few on here state (tim being one) that you can zook out the flat tapes, then turn around the same day and coat it(10" box for me). To me, it would be perfect for houses between 5 to 8,000 sq ft:thumbup:


----------



## br549 (Jun 2, 2012)

I figured with the way it's designed to let the mud through it, vs mud/paper/mud, it would make sense to go ahead and 1st coat it wet since it's all sort of the same coat anyway (if that makes any sense?) There shouldn't be any issues with the mud behind the tape drying at a different rate than the mud over the tape and having shrinking issues or any other problems. As long as we get that 1st coat on quick enough while it's still wet..

Then again I haven't used FF yet so what I "figure" doesn't mean chit!  The new hung board part of this job will only be 20 boards or so, I'll try it out. If it's ever ready..


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

br549 said:


> So to contribute to the Fibafuse thread I second the Bag Balm... then I actually have a Fibafuse question
> 
> Are you guys taping with AP then first coating (block coat, bedding, fill coat, whatever else you call the first coat after tape ) on the same day? Or are you letting it dry until the next day like regular paper tape...
> 
> I have some fun HO work coming up and it would be nice to knock a day off the project as long as I knew that coating wet FF was legit.


I do alot of repair work I use 5 Min mud and coat over it with that Until it looks good. If you use proform 5 Min that is. It sands off well and looks great.


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

this job needed DuraRock 12'' off floor .I used fibafuse on the hole job and on the DuraRock I used a roll 15" wide to skim it with 
no mask or gloves and it was not itchy. there was no fibers in the air. if you use the right tools its not itchy at all :yes:


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

A smooth finish said:


> I do alot of repair work I use 5 Min mud and coat over it with that Until it looks good. If you use proform 5 Min that is. It sands off well and looks great.


Yep, 5 minute and fibafuse.... I wouldn't be without it. Went through 3 bags of 5 minute last week and 1.5 rolls of fibafuse. Many times you can one coat a patch with it. Just coat it heavy and come back right when it is set but still workable. You will be able to rub it down to where it is perfectly smooth and flat with no need for a second skim coat. Word of advice for fibafuse is do not drop it lol because it will bounce and unroll itself. Fibafuse is a pain to roll back on to the roll. I always take a little mud and mud the loose end to the rest of the roll so it won't come undone.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

thefinisher said:


> Yep, 5 minute and fibafuse.... I wouldn't be without it. Went through 3 bags of 5 minute last week and 1.5 rolls of fibafuse. Many times you can one coat a patch with it. Just coat it heavy and come back right when it is set but still workable. You will be able to rub it down to where it is perfectly smooth and flat with no need for a second skim coat. *Word of advice for fibafuse is do not drop it lol because it will bounce and unroll itself*. Fibafuse is a pain to roll back on to the roll. I always take a little mud and mud the loose end to the rest of the roll so it won't come undone.


Yep :yes: I hear ya on that one, once you drop it you better hope it's heading towards the closest wall because will just keep going and going.


----------



## thefinisher (Sep 2, 2011)

Kiwiman said:


> Yep :yes: I hear ya on that one, once you drop it you better hope it's heading towards the closest wall because will just keep going and going.


Haha I dropped a roll the other day and it about made across an entire garage.


----------



## A smooth finish (Mar 19, 2012)

thefinisher said:


> Yep, 5 minute and fibafuse.... I wouldn't be without it. Went through 3 bags of 5 minute last week and 1.5 rolls of fibafuse. Many times you can one coat a patch with it. Just coat it heavy and come back right when it is set but still workable. You will be able to rub it down to where it is perfectly smooth and flat with no need for a second skim coat. Word of advice for fibafuse is do not drop it lol because it will bounce and unroll itself. Fibafuse is a pain to roll back on to the roll. I always take a little mud and mud the loose end to the rest of the roll so it won't come undone.


What do you come back with to smooth it out?


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

A smooth finish said:


> What do you come back with to smooth it out?


I think what he means is the same as I do, just as it sets I drag a broadknife perpindicular to the wall across it too scrape back any swelling or fibres sticking up, it's just a lot easier than when it fully sets. Thats on patch jobs only that I do that.


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Lol! Finger roller! Nice one! You should patent that stuff.
> 
> I hate working behind other people. Over someone else's work..yuck..
> I got a call like that this week.
> ...


 
or learn somthing ! lol


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

:thumbup:


PrecisionTaping said:


> Lol! Finger roller! Nice one! You should patent that stuff.
> 
> I hate working behind other people. Over someone else's work..yuck..
> I got a call like that this week.
> ...


 
or learn somthing ! lol


----------



## spacklinfool (Sep 23, 2011)

PrecisionTaping said:


> Do you know if the 500' rolls fit on a bazooka? I've never seen how big they are...


yes the 500ft rolls fit!!


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

I found out the other week that a top taper in my old company had some joints show cracks after using FibaFuse on a job. I asked the field supervisor if it had been butt joints only and I don't know if he knows for sure, but he said Yes.

If so, I'm thinking the taper wiped too hard - that there may even have been butt ends that were a bit high when the tapes were put on and that added to too much FF tape cutting.

Maybe he boxed them and the box's blade cut things too much?

Just an fyi.


----------



## icerock drywall (Nov 13, 2010)

JustMe said:


> I found out the other week that a top taper in my old company had some joints show cracks after using FibaFuse on a job. I asked the field supervisor if it had been butt joints only and I don't know if he knows for sure, but he said Yes.
> 
> If so, I'm thinking the taper wiped too hard - that there may even have been butt ends that were a bit high when the tapes were put on and that added to too much FF tape cutting.
> 
> ...


that why I cut my own ff for butts,,, no crease


----------



## fr8train (Jan 20, 2008)

What little experience with FF I have, I did notice that it takes very little pressure to wipe in, and picking 3-ways was almost effortless. I'm wondering if it's just the learning curve with it that is causing the cracks.

PT, I remember a while back you were having issues with cracking on butts with FF. Did you find a solution? Was it just that job?


----------



## mld (Jul 2, 2012)

Fibafuse gets its strength from the mud. Hence, no mud, no strength. Everybody I know who has used Fibafuse has had a butt or two crack from overwiping. Once you get beyond that it isn't a problem. I've also used the cut your own roll butt tape that Ice talks about and that works great as well. If the crack issue is on the flats then it's a pretty good change its not the Fibafuse cause it's really hard to overwipe the flats.:thumbsup:


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

fr8train said:


> I'm wondering if it's just the learning curve with it that is causing the cracks.


Not a learning curve in this case. More likely one getting away with things till a certain point/situation is reached and then problems show up on a job.

My point: Just because you've done X # of jobs with FF and no problems, don't let it make you get a little too careless on the next jobs when using it, especially in places like taping and coating butts.


----------



## Kiwiman (Jun 14, 2008)

Always be careful wiping butt cracks I say :whistling2: 
Especially if one side of the butt is higher than the other you'll see the FF tearing up or wearing thin as you wipe, bevel cutting the edge off the sheet helps.


----------



## JustMe (Apr 17, 2009)

Kiwiman said:


> Always be careful wiping butt cracks I say :whistling2:
> Especially if one side of the butt is higher than the other you'll see the FF tearing up or wearing thin as you wipe, bevel cutting the edge off the sheet helps.


I've gone back to using more paper on butt joints, especially if I'm wanting to box them.


----------

