# Typical Window Drywall Return



## hotrod (9 mo ago)

Wanting to know if this is an example of a typical drywall return, note the drywall is at an angle to the window/return...









This was more of what we asked for and expected, but only one of the 14 windows turned out like this...









I assume square drywall window returns are difficult?


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## Tonydif (May 8, 2021)

The corner bead pulls the corner out of square.

Takes up to 1/8 compound to fill the bead if framing is decent. But if that horizontal window "jam" has any sort of hook in it, the bead has to be pulled even further to keep a straight line. If there's a twist in framing, then you have even larger adjustment to make to bead.

Corner beads are installed to be straight, not square/level. To be square with bowed lumber , you need to bow the corner bead and it becomes so obvious to the trained eye.


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## hotrod (9 mo ago)

Tony, Thanks for the information. Your explanation helps with trying to understand what happened. The wood framing was straight and plumb (within a 1/16th of an inch). When I asked during installation to make sure the returns are square the drywall hangers proceeded to install 1/8" shims (reason not 100% sure) behind the drywall return. 

The issues we are having with how it ended up are...

Figure out how to install a wood window sill with no painters caulk (or very little). The drywall is now in a "trapezoid" shape, and this will make the wood window sill fit difficult. We are trying to avoid painters caulk, that is why the windows had drywall receivers, no need to caulk around the window. So would rather not caulk the 3/8 triangular gap between the wood window sill and the drywall jamb return. 
The window latch rubs on the drywall return if you are not carful opening the latch (happens on all but one window, the one window that this is not an issue the drywall return was square). 
And visually when you stand back and look you can see that the returns are not square (look like a trapezoid). This is what first tipped us off to an issue. We can live with this one, but the other two are more of an issue.



















Are we expecting too much? I went and looked at a couple other drywall returns at places in the area, and if I put a square against the return I can barely note any variation. 

Thank you


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## Tonydif (May 8, 2021)

I wouldn't worry about being out of square, but If a tapered Jam bothers you then just fill overtop the plastic J Bead, as opposed to stopping in front. I don't like doing it but some have made me do it because they dont like the look of the vinyl trim.

You can also slide the wood sill under the Bead and Drywall liner. It just involves taking a multi-tool and cutting precisely the depth of sill. You would then need no caulk In old days sill always went first, then drywall second , to avoid using caulk.

The latch scribing the drywall is not acceptable, I have no idea what they were thinking. If have to shim the window frames, you always use whatever thickness allows you to barely cover windows edge. They told you 1/8! but that's BS. You can work backwards and figure out how much they actually added. For that latch to be touching they shimmed at east 1/2 over windows edge, plus the 5/8 for Board and J-Bead.


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## advancedcustomrecons (2 mo ago)

hotrod said:


> Tony, Thanks for the information. Your explanation helps with trying to understand what happened. The wood framing was straight and plumb (within a 1/16th of an inch). When I asked during installation to make sure the returns are square the drywall hangers proceeded to install 1/8" shims (reason not 100% sure) behind the drywall return. The issues we are having with how it ended up are...
> Figure out how to install a wood window sill with no painters caulk (or very little). The drywall is now in a "trapezoid" shape, and this will make the wood window sill fit difficult. We are trying to avoid painters caulk, that is why the windows had drywall receivers, no need to caulk around the window. So would rather not caulk the 3/8 triangular gap between the wood window sill and the drywall jamb return.
> The window latch rubs on the drywall return if you are not carful opening the latch (happens on all but one window, the one window that this is not an issue the drywall return was square).
> And visually when you stand back and look you can see that the returns are not square (look like a trapezoid). This is what first tipped us off to an issue. We can live with this one, but the other two are more of an issue.
> ...


 Would like to see a pic of the overall window.could been strapping kicking out since all the jacks and uprights under the window will get them in certain areas like on the coast in Florida. I actually fold the waterproofing membrane up to kinda angle the return and line up better with the bead since all my builders use a Thick dbl wrap of 6in water barrier so that its water proffered on the out side and then designed to flow water out of or in time the stucco and sealants void.I’ll also shim all the returns and sills to be at equal reviles on nicer jobs as I would with wrapping windows in trim. We do pretty much nothing but reconstruction of leaking 3 story or bigger apartments, town homes, or any commercial building. I’ve seen everything when it comes to out of square windows or high spots one thing I learned quick was to spot any flaws before mud then ask yourself what kind of job is it. They wanna be cheap like half the work I get then I’m not gonna worry to much about imperfections like that, then the other half I’ll shim everything as much as possible, fudge beads, plane out studs or headers to float minimal. All studs and frame are supposed to be within 1/8 level and 1/16 square per 8ft witch they never check and falls on finishers as everything does till the painters and finish carpenters get fucked.


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## hotrod (9 mo ago)

Here is a photo I have showing the window and framing, not sure if this is what you are looking for. I don't have any photos showing the shims the drywallers put in. They moved pretty fast, shimmed and put drywall up on 16 windows in about 1 or 2 hours. The entire house was done in less than 2 days. By the time I had known what was going on it was already done, but I did see them shim a couple windows when I walked through.


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## endo_alley (Nov 2, 2013)

The window wraps should be pretty close to being square. All window wraps should be shimmed straight and to the proper jamb reveal. Best to either shim the inside of the wrap to accomadate the 1/16" to 1/8" lip of the mud flange on the corner bead. Or better yet use Trim -ex tear-away bead against the jamb extension edge. The no flange bead glues on nicely with spray contact cement.


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